Traveler of Charleston Mag | 2020 | Winter/Spring Edition by Traveler Communications Group

Charleston Area Plantations

Chilly Weather Things to Do

Must-Eat Charleston Foods january – march 2020 ®

TRAVELER of Charleston

The Source For All Things Charleston

travelerofcharleston.com COMPLIMENTARY MOBILE APP Exploring Charleston, SC #1 Ranked App for Charleston, SC

Contents

DEPARTMENTS 12 18 42 47 48 64 69

Welcome to Charleston See + Do Shop + Savor Shopping Guide Eat + Drink Maps Directory of Advertisers

Be sure to download our free mobile app, “Exploring Charleston SC.”

14 FEATURES 14

Middleton Place Offers Look at Plantation Life

Charleston's Area Plantations

Experience Romance in the Holy City

Warm Up with These Activities

Military History Comes Alive at Patriots Point

Charleston in Bloom

First-Time Visitors Guide

5 Must-Have Charleston Dishes

Charleston Landmarks

Charleston Area Events

Coffee Shops You'll Love

4 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com january-march 2020

From the Publisher e are delighted you’ve decided to usher in the start of a new decade with a visit to Charleston! We couldn’t think of a better way to kick off this winter season. We have packed this issue full of ideas for places to visit, tours to book and, of course, amazing Charleston food to eat. A plantation tour is a wonderful way to get a detailed history of Charleston. See Page 14 for our feature on Middleton Place with its historic gardens and incredible exhibits on the life of the slaves who lived and worked on the plantation. Fortunately, our winters are pretty mild, but when a cold day blows through, you can stay warm with our list of indoor activities on Page 30. We know you came to Charleston ready to eat at some of our many amazing restaurants. No visit is complete without trying at least one (or two) iconic Charleston dishes. Discover our favorite recommendations on Page 52. For more information, download our free mobile app with maps, parking locations, public restroom listings and coupons, plus details on attractions and tours. Search “Exploring Charleston SC” in the App Store or Google Play. To save money, time and hassle while you’re visiting, purchase a Charleston Tour Pass for access to some of the area’s best tours and attractions at a discounted price. Buy online at tourpass.com. Don’t forget to connect with us on social media – we love seeing how you’re enjoying Charleston! Be sure to use hashtag #CharlestonTraveler.

TRAVELER

Traveler of Charleston Team KEITH SIMMONS has an extensive publishing, marketing and advertising background and founded Traveler Magazine in 2005. His purpose was to develop an affordable and effective visitor medium where businesses could advertise their service. Traveler is now one of the leading visitor resources in the city. Keith lives in Mount Pleasant with his wife and three children. He enjoys fishing, kayaking and spending time with his family. HOLLY FISHER is a long-time writer and editor with a love of telling stories. She has lived in Charleston more than 15 years and enjoys sharing the tales of the Holy City with visitors and newcomers to the area. Holly lives in the Mount Pleasant area with her husband, daughter and two dogs. When she isn’t at her computer writing for work and for fun, you can find her reading or doing CrossFit. SALLY HEINEMAN honed her knack for graphic design at the University of the Arts in Philadelphia, PA where she received a BFA in Graphic Design. Drawn to the South and the love of everything Lowcountry, Sally opened the doors of her graphic design business, Heineman Design, in 1992.

of Charleston

Member of: Charleston Convention & Visitors Bureau; Charleston Restaurant Association; Summerville/Dorchester Chamber of Commerce.

Publisher/Founder.................... Keith Simmons Editor........................................... Holly Fisher Graphic Designer...................... Heineman Design Circulation................................. Brian Bean Cheral McCombs Cover Photography ................. hueandeye.com

info@TRAVELERofCharleston.com | 843-410-2577 | TRAVELERofCharleston.com TRAVELER of Charleston is produced by the Traveler Communications Group, LLC, and is published four times yearly and distributed to various locations throughout the Charleston area, including all visitors centers, hotels, airports, beach rentals, grocery stores, high-traffic areas, advertiser locations and many other points throughout the surrounding area. Concept, design and contents of TRAVELER of Charleston are copyrighted and may not be reproduced. www.travelerofcharleston.com.

The copy and advertising deadline for the next issue is March 1, 2020. 6 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com january-march 2020

to CHARLESTON

HIS AMAZING PLACE ONLY GETS BETTER WITH TIME. Each year more people ﬂock to this historic port city to explore the history, culture and architecture and bask in Southern goodness. In recent years, Charleston has become a destination for shopping and its incredible culinary scene is attracting global attention.

From arts and theater to ﬁne dining and watersports, this is one city that truly offers something for everyone. But the Holy City has a storied past. An early English settlement, Charleston has survived wars, ﬁres, earthquakes and hurricanes to rise up as one of the country’s top travel destinations. As you’re visiting our beloved city, get acquainted with her history, celebrate her charms and delight in all the amazing beauty Charleston has to offer.

1718

1670 English colonists settle Charles Town on the Ashley River

Blackbeard the Pirate sails into Charles Town Harbor with four ships; takes hostages for ransom

1740 Charles Town becomes most critical port in North America for exporting rice

1783 City renamed “Charleston”

1718 1680

Pirate Stede Bonnet is hanged at White Point

Charles Town relocates to the peninsula; population 1,000

1736 Dock Street Theatre opens, ﬁrst building in colonial America used exclusively for theatrical performances

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1770

1775-1783

College of Charleston founded

Revolutionary War; Siege of Charleston in 1780

1824

1920

Charleston Museum opens to the public (founded in 1773)

Preservation Society founded to protect historic resources

1828-29 Young Army recruit named Edgar Allan Poe is stationed at Fort Moultrie on Sullivan’s Island

1864

2016

H.L. Hunley sinks U.S.S. Housatonic in Charleston harbor

1989 Hurricane Hugo hits the city and surrounding areas with 135 mph winds

In January Joseph P. Riley Jr. retires after 40 years as Charleston mayor

2006 Charleston Wine + Food Festival founded

1886 1861 1791 President George Washington visits, lodging at what is now the HeywardWashington House and attending a reception at the Old Exchange and a social at McCrady’s Longroom

Confederate troops ﬁre the ﬁrst shots of the Civil War upon Fort Sumter

Major earthquake hits Charleston, damaging 2,000 buildings, killing 110 people

2005 Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge over the Cooper River opens

1977 Spoleto Festival USA begins

january-march 2020 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com 13

MIDDLETON PLACE Offers Extensive Look at Plantation Life BY HOLLY FISHER PHOTOS MIDDLETON PLACE FOUNDATION

n today’s fast-paced, always-connected world, it can be tough to slow down. Even on a vacation, we’re sharing photos on social media and leaving online reviews for favorite attractions and restaurants. On your visit to Charleston, I challenge you to tap the brakes a bit with a trip to Middleton Place. Home to America’s oldest landscaped gardens, you can truly lose yourself in the beauty of this carefully designed landscape. Henry Middleton began to create the gardens in 1741 as a reflection of the classic style that was popular in Europe and England. He followed the principals of André Le Nôtre, a master of classical gardens, implementing rational order, geometry and balance along with vistas, focal points and surprises. While the gardens have evolved over time, they retain the charm and elegance Middleton intended all those years ago. In addition to its carefully crafted design, the gardens are also home to an incredible number of plant species – thanks to the efforts of the entire Middleton family. Arthur Middleton, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, befriended French botanist André Michaux, who is thought to have brought the first camellias in America to Middleton Place.

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Arthur Middleton’s son, Gov. Henry Middleton, planted many more camellias and introduced other plants to the gardens, including tea olives and crepe myrtles. Williams Middleton expanded the gardens, giving it a romantic flair and adding azaleas, which now number more than 100,000. The winter season is a lovely time to visit the 65-acre garden at Middleton Place. Beginning in February, thousands of camellias burst forth in pink, red and white. Camellia Walks are offered Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays from Feb. 5 to March 16. Visitors can experience the blooming beauties while expert guides share details of the camellias, including the 1786 Reine des Fleurs, one of the first camellias planted in America.

Middleton Place 4300 Ashley River Road Charleston, SC 29414 843-556-6020 | middletonplace.org

Edmondston-Alston House To understand family life in the 19th century, tour the Edmondston-Alston House in downtown Charleston. With commanding views of the Charleston harbor and Fort Sumter, this historic house had a front-row seat to the start of the Civil War. It was built by Scottish shipping merchant Charles Edmondston at the height of his commercial success. In 1825, it was one of the first substantial houses to be built along the city’s sea wall away from the noisy wharves and warehouses further up the peninsula. A decade later, tough economic times forced Edmondston to sell his house. It was purchased by Charles Alston, a member of a rice-planting dynasty. He updated the house in the Greek Revival style, adding a third-story piazza with Corinthian columns, a cast-iron balcony across the front, and a rooftop railing bearing the Alston coat of arms. The house – managed by the Middleton Place Foundation – is filled with furniture, books, artwork and other artifacts that originally belonged to the Alston family. january-march 2020 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com 15

But life on this historic plantation wasn’t just about pretty flowers. Visitors to Middleton Place get a detailed look at life on an 18th- and 19thcentury plantation in the Stableyards where interpreters demonstrate carpentry, pottery and blacksmith trades. Middleton Place also gives visitors a historically accurate and important glimpse into the life of slaves and their contributions to daily plantation life. One of the highlights of a visit to Middleton Place is Eliza’s House, a permanent exhibit that is part of the Middleton Place Foundation’s commitment to putting a spotlight on the more than 2,800 enslaved people owned by the Middleton family from 1738 to 1865. Over the course of a decade, scholars researched and studied documents in the Middleton Place Archives as well as at research institutions and in public records throughout the United States. The enslaved left behind few artifacts or personal papers. And oral histories of former slaves are rare. What researchers did uncover is detailed in a book titled “Beyond the Fields – Slavery at Middleton Place” published in 2008. A documentary by the same name brings the interpretation of the slave experience to the screen along with new insights from historians, researchers, preservationists, and historic site interpreters plus descendants of the Middleton family and African Americans with roots at Middleton Place. As part of Black History Month in February, visitors can watch the “Beyond the Fields” documentary. Screenings are at 11:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. each Wednesday and Friday (no screening on Feb. 7 or Feb. 26). 16 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com january-march 2020

Camellias Walks and Tours at Middleton Place Beauty & History: Camellias at Middleton Place: At 1 p.m. on Feb. 2, join master gardener and Middleton Place vice president of horticulture Sidney Frazier as he leads a free workshop discussing propagating, growing and caring for camellias. Reservations required; call 843-556-6020. Camellia Walks: At 11 a.m. each Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday from Feb. 5 to March 16 take a guided tour learning about Middleton's extensive collection of camellias, including the 1786 Reine des Fleurs, one of the first camellias planted in America.

Black History Month Programming at Middleton Place “Another Perspective: The Daily Life of an Enslaved Person” – A theatrical presentation focused on the daily life of an enslaved person. Each Sunday and Wednesday in February at 10:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m. “Taking Care of the Roots to Heal the Tree: Surviving Slavery Through the Use of African Skills and Rituals” – Agricultural practices, foodways, medical knowledge, spiritual beliefs, and cultural practices not only provided a means of survival for enslaved people, but helped create a culture that is unique to the Lowcountry. Each Tuesday and Thursday in February at noon and 3 p.m. “Rice and Slavery: The Connection that Made the Lowcountry” – Costumed interpreters will discuss the planting, cultivating, harvesting and processing of Carolina Gold Rice, as well as its impact on 18th- and 19th-century South Carolina. Each Saturday and Monday in February at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. (no program on Feb. 8). Clay and Fire: Colonoware Pit Firing – On Feb. 7 from 2-4 p.m., costumed interpreters will load the pit with pottery and start an overnight firing. On Feb. 8 from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., the pit will be emptied, and, after cooling, the fired pottery will be dug up and unloaded.

january-march 2020 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com 17

See + Do Charleston is known for her rich history, picturesque scenery and culinary excellence. Many experienced touring companies are ready to show you a great time.

How to use this magazine: You’ll find each type of tour and attraction categorized for easy reference. Many listings include a map grid locator. Find the grid location, then reference the maps on pages 64 through 68.

WHETHER YOU’RE A HISTORY BUFF, WATER ENTHUSIAST OR SIMPLY ENJOY STROLLING THE COBBLESTONE STREETS OF CHARLESTON YOU’LL FIND PLENTY OF WAYS TO EXPLORE THE HOLY CITY. See a plantation home, tour the harbor, take a carriage ride or visit a museum.

SEE + DO

BOAT & WATER Barrier Island Eco-Tours 50 41st Ave. • Isle of Palms Marina • (Map: N:6) 843-886-5000 • nature-tours.com • Naturalist guided boat excursions to Capers Island Preserve. Travel the salt marsh creeks, see dolphins and wildlife up close, explore the “boneyard beach” and walk inland trails. Morning and sunset eco-tours, creek fishing, crabbing, kayaking or beach-side cookouts.

Charleston Harbor Tours Charleston Maritime Center. • 10 Wharfside St., Charleston • (Map: J:5/6) • 843-722-1112 charlestonharbortours.com • Board the Carolina Belle for Charleston’s top-rated harbor tour. This 90-minute tour is live narrated by the Captain and covers over 75 points of interest and 300 years of history. See Fort Sumter, Fort Johnson, Fort Moultrie, Castle Pinckney, The Battery, The Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge, dolphins, pelicans and much more! Offering great combination packages with other popular attractions saving you time and money! Fully stocked bar and snack bar with items for purchase on board. Call or go online for schedule and tickets or see our ad on page 2.

Nature Adventures 1 Shrimpboat Ln. • Mount Pleasant (Map O:2) • 843-568-3222 kayakcharlestonsc.com Our focus is on creating experiences! Take a guided kayak or stand-up paddleboard tour or they can be rented. Located on picturesque Shem Creek where dolphins and wildlife are all around to experience up-close.

Schooner Pride – Charleston’s Tall Ship 360 Concord St. • Charleston • (Map: J:5) 843-722-1112 • schoonerpride.com • Board this beautiful, 49 passenger sailing vessel for a unique and breathtaking excursion on Charleston Harbor. Each 2 hour sail is unique as the Pride sails with the wind and tides, but you are sure to have an experience you won’t forget. Rated as one of the top 10 things to do in Charleston and one of the top Sunset Sails in North America, the Pride is a great way to get out on the water! Beer, wine, champagne, sodas and water available for purchase on board. RESERVATIONS REQUIRED, go online or call for tickets.

SpiritLine Charleston Harbor Tour 843-722-BOAT(2628) • spiritlinecruises.com Enjoy a 90-minute tour of Charleston’s harbor with 75+ points of interest narrated by City of Charleston licensed tour guides. Discounted Land & Sea Combo Tours available: include either a 90-minute Gray Line City Tour or a 60minute Old South Carriage Tour. Tours depart Aquarium Wharf in downtown Charleston and Patriots Point in Mount Pleasant

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CHARLESTONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S PAST COMES ALIVE AT AREA PLANTATIONS Charleston is home to several historic plantations. Book a tour to see beautiful gardens, historic homes and to learn about plantation life.

Boone Hall Plantation

Drayton Hall 22 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com january-march 2020

Middleton Place

BOONE HALL PLANTATION 1235 Long Point Road Mount Pleasant, SC 29464 843-884-4371 boonehallplantation.com Open daily $24 general admission; $12 ages 6-12; $21 military/ seniors/AAA (tours included with admission)

DRAYTON HALL 3380 Ashley River Road Charleston, SC 29414 843-769-2600 draytonhall.org Open 9 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Monday to Saturday; 10:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Sunday $32 general admission; $10 ages 8-14; free ages 7 and under

MAGNOLIA PLANTATION & GARDENS 3550 Ashley River Road Charleston, SC 29414 843-571-1266 magnoliaplantation.com Open daily $20 general admission; $10 ages 6-12 (tours require an additional fee)

McLeod Plantation

MCLEOD PLANTATION 325 Country Club Drive Charleston, SC 29412 843-762-9514 ccprc.com Open 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Sunday $15 admission; $12 ages 60+, $12 for ages 3-12; free ages 2 and under Guided tours are offered at 9:30 a.m., 10:30 a.m., 11:30 a.m., 12:30 p.m., 1:30 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. (included with admission).

MIDDLETON PLACE

Magnolia Plantation

4300 Ashley River Road Charleston, SC 29414 843-556-6020 middletonplace.org Open daily 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. $29 general admission; $15 for students 14 and up; $10 ages 6-13; free ages 5 and under january-march 2020 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com 23

SEE + DO

CARRIAGE TOURS

COMBO TOURS

Palmetto Carriage Works

Gray Line & Fort Sumter Tour Combo

8 Guignard St. • (Map: H:7) • 843-723-8145 palmettocarriage.com • Departs from The Big Red Barn every 15 to 20 minutes, rain or shine, beginning at 9 a.m. Tours are one hour long, covering about 25 blocks of residential and historic districts. Guides are city licensed. See our ad on the inside front cover.

843-722-BOAT(2628) • fortsumtertours.com, graylineofcharleston.com • Save $4 per person! Enjoy a comprehensive tour of Charleston’s historic district and take the only boat tour to Fort Sumter. Licensed and experienced tour guides lead a 90-minute exploration of Charleston’s rich history on air-conditioned mini-buses. The Gray Line tour features 100+ points of interest with a stop at the Battery. Tours depart every 30 minutes from the Charleston Visitor’s Center, 375 Meeting St. Free hotel pickup in historic district.

COMBO TOURS Charleston Harbor Tours & Palmetto Carriage Combo Charleston Harbor Tours • Charleston Maritime Center, 10 Wharfside Street • (Map :J:5/6) Palmetto Carriage Works • Big Red Barn, 8 Guignard Street • 843-722-1112 • (Map: H:7) CharlestonHarborTours.com PalmettoCarriage.com • Join two of Charleston’s most reputable tour companies for the most popular combination tour. This is a great way to save time and money and get a great overview of the Holy City. Book tickets in advance and you can save $6 on adult tickets! You can even split the tours up over different days! Book online or call for tickets.

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Tour Pass Charleston & Savannah tourpass.com • Admission included for over 40 of Charleston's top tours, attractions and historic sites. Choose a 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 day pass and instantly receive the Mobile Pass to begin attractions. Purchased online only. Smartphone required.

FISHING CHARTERS Reel Deal Charters Multiple area departure locations - some tours depart from Shem Creek, Mount Pleasant 843-388-5093 • thereeldealcharters.com Join The Reel Deal Charters for year-round inshore/offshore, deep-sea, big game and saltwater fishing. Includes licenses, bait and tackle. Operating several boats with the lowest prices for a “reel” fishing experience!

In Love with Charleston EXPERIENCE ROMANCE IN THE HOLY CITY By Holly Fisher

ith cobblestone streets, cozy inns, candlelight dinners and waterfront sunsets, it’s impossible not to fall in love while visiting Charleston. Romance is in high supply. So, whether you’re looking for a place to pop the question, tie the knot, celebrate a golden anniversary or simply get away for a romantic weekend, you’ve come to the right place. We’ve highlighted a few activities sure to get the sparks flying. A carriage ride through the historic streets of downtown Charleston makes a perfect outing for two. Book a private carriage ride with Palmetto Carriage Works and arrive at your romantic dinner in style. Select your pickup and drop-off locations during checkout, and your private tour will be complete with a customized route and historic tidbits along the way. Buy tickets: palmettocarriage.com Ocean sunsets and lapping waves make for a magical setting as you and your sweetheart stroll hand in hand during a walk on a beach. A favorite is Folly Beach where the Morris Island Lighthouse stands majestically off the northeast end of Folly Beach. Plus, the lighthouse is the perfect photo background to commemorate a date night or special occasion. Take East Ashley Street until it ends. You can park there and then walk about a quarter mile to the beach. Or head toward Mount Pleasant to visit Sullivan’s Island near Fort Moultrie. Insider’s tip: park at 201 Station 12. Stroll along this secluded area of beachfront to capture amazing photos of sunsets and dolphins playing in the surf. Enjoy a delicious, three-course meal while sailing around the Charleston harbor during a SpiritLine dinner cruise. Live music, bar service and sunset views make this a truly romantic way to experience Charleston on the water. Info & tickets: spiritlinecruises.com Take a relaxing sail aboard The Schooner Pride, an 84-foot tall ship modeled after the 18th-century coastal trading schooners that once sailed the Charleston harbor. Book a sunset sail for added romance (available beginning in March). Tickets: schoonerpride.com Food-loving couples can take a cooking class at In the Kitchen with Chef Bob Waggoner. Cook alongside accomplished Chef Bob Waggoner to prepare and enjoy a seasonal tasting menu inspired by the many farmers, fisherman and artisans of the Lowcountry. Space is limited, so book quickly because these classes do sell out: chefbobwaggoner.com. Check out the Charleston Music Hall, which hosts a robust schedule of live music, comedy shows and concerts. Info: charlestonmusichall.com When it comes to romance, it’s tough to beat a couples’ massage. Book an afternoon of pampering and relaxation at one of the area’s most luxurious spas. Options include Belmond Charleston Place (belmond.com/usa), the Spa at Wentworth Mansion (wentworthmansion.com) and The Woodhouse Day Spa (charleston.woodhousespas.com) located in Mount Pleasant. january-march 2020 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com 25

SEE + DO

MOTORIZED LAND TOURS Adventure Sightseeing AdventureSightseeing.com • 843-762-0088 “See it All” with Charleston’s top-rated bus tour company. With over 30 years of experience offering guided tours of Charleston, Adventure Sightseeing is a must do when visiting. 90minute city tours and plantation tours. The most available combination tours offer great savings on the most popular tours and activities. Departing from the Charleston Visitor’s Center. Free downtown hotel pick up available too!

Gray Line of Charleston

Tour some of Charleston’s most pristine homes and gardens during the Festival of Houses and Gardens from March 11 to April 1. For a full schedule of events and to purchase tickets, visit historiccharleston.org.

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graylineofcharleston.com • 843-722-4444 Explore 300 years of history with experienced, licensed tour guides onboard our mini-buses. Gray Line offers a comprehensive tour of Charleston’s Historic District with 100+ points of interest and a stop at Charleston’s Battery. Take our 90 minute tour or add a visit to a fully restored antebellum home. Land & Sea Combo includes either a visit to Fort Sumter or a 90-minute tour of the harbor. Tours depart every 30 minutes from the Charleston Visitor’s Center, 375 Meeting St. Free hotel pickup in historic district.

SEE + DO

MUSEUMS AND PARKS

Audubon Center at Beidler Forest

Edmondston-Alston House

336 Sanctuary Rd. • 336 Sanctuary Rd. 843-462-2150 • beidlerforest.com • Francis Beidler Forest contains the largest stand of virgin bald cypress and tupelo gum swamp forest left in the world. See 1,000-year-old trees and native wildlife; walk the 1.75-mile boardwalk into the swamp. Tues.-Sun. 9 a.m-5 p.m. Harleyville, S.C.

21 East Battery • Charleston • 843-722-7171 edmondstonalston.com • Circa 1828; a gracious example of early 19th-century elegance, style and comfort. The only historic house downtown with a view of Charleston Harbor. Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 10 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Sunday & Monday 1-4:30 p.m. Tickets: $12/adult, $11/military, $8/student, 5 & under free. Combo tickets available with Middleton Place plantation.

Founded in 1770, the College of Charleston is a public liberal arts and sciences university located in the heart of downtown.

28 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com january-march 2020

North Charleston Fire Museum

When it’s Chilly Outside, Warm Up with These Activities By Holly Fisher We’re fortunate to live in a place with a mild winter climate. Compared to our friends in the North, it’s downright balmy here in Charleston. But that doesn’t mean we don’t get a cold snap or two. If you happen to be visiting when it’s a little chilly, don’t worry, there are plenty of places you can visit and stay warm at the same time.

KIDS’ PLAY SPACE: If you’re visiting with little ones, plan a trip to the Children’s Museum of the Lowcountry. The kids will love the interactive exhibits and play areas where they can burn off extra energy. Exhibits include an art room, Medieval castle, water play station with bridges and boats, pirate ship and a pint-sized grocery store. Check the website for special events and programs: explorecml.org. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday at 25 Ann St. in downtown Charleston.

FIREFIGHTING ACTION: At the North Charleston Fire Museum and Educational Center, see a collection of 19 antique fire trucks plus exhibits on the life of a firefighter and home safety. Kids will love the interactive, hands-on exhibits – especially the fire pole they can slide down. Open daily; admission is $6 for adults and free for children 12 and under (northcharlestonfiremuseum.org). LOCAL HISTORY BUFFS: Immerse yourself in Charleston history with a visit to the Charleston Museum, 360 Meeting St. Founded in 1773 and commonly regarded as “America’s First Museum,” the Charleston Museum has extensive collections and exhibits detailing the history of the South Carolina Lowcountry. Package your museum visit with tours of their two historic homes. The Joseph Manigault House, built in 1803, reflects the urban lifestyle of a wealthy, rice-planting family and the enslaved African Americans who lived there. The Heyward-Washington House, built in 1772, was the town home of Thomas Heyward Jr., one of four South Carolina signers of the Declaration of Independence. The 30 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com january-march 2020

Gibbes Museum of Art

Children’s Museum of the Lowcountry

museum and historic homes are open daily (charlestonmuseum.org).

TAKE IN A SHOW: The Charleston has several local theaters

Joseph Manigault House

Heyward-Washington House

Dock Street Theatre

where you can catch a drama, comedy, mystery or classic tale brought to life on stage. Check out the professional theater company Charleston Stage in residence at The Dock Street Theatre, 135 Church St. Stop in for a performance of "The Lion, The Witch and the Wardrobe" in January, "Our Town" in February, or "Noises Off" in March. Another nearby historic theater is Queen Street Playhouse, home of The Footlight Players. Experience a community theater production of “I Love You, You're Perfect, Now Change" in February or "Six Degrees of Separation" in late February and March (queenstreetplayhouse.org). For a blend of mystery and comedy, be sure to check out The Black Fedora, 164 Church St. These clean comic whodunits feature audience participation. Plus, grab a drink, appetizer or dessert to enjoy during the show (charlestonmysteries.com).

ART FOR THE AGES: The Gibbes Museum of Art at 135 Meeting St. tells the story of Charleston through art. The Gibbes is recognized among the oldest arts organizations in the United States. Home to the Carolina Art Association, established in 1858, the Gibbes has played a significant role in both enriching the aesthetic and cultural lives of its visitors for more than a century. The museum is open daily; visit the store for a selection of jewelry, gifts, art supplies, books and specialty items – many created by regional artists. Take a coffee or lunch break in the café, The Daily at the Gibbes. january-march 2020 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com 31

SEE + DO

MUSEUMS AND PARKS Fort Sumter Tours 843-722-BOAT(2628) • fortsumtertours.com Walk in the footsteps of Civil War soldiers as you visit this National Historic Site. Cost includes tour of Charleston harbor onboard the boat plus an hour to explore the fort. The National Park Service maintains the Civil War era fortifications as well as restrooms, a gift shop and the Fort Sumter Museum. Fort Sumter Tours is an authorized concessionaire of the National Park Service and the only tour that stops at historic Fort Sumter. Tours depart Liberty Square in downtown Charleston (handicapped accessible) and Patriots Point in Mount Pleasant

North Charleston/American LaFrance Fire Museum 4975 Centre Point Dr • North Charleston (Map: KK:5) • 843-740-5550 northcharlestonfiremuseum.org The Fire Museum, located adjacent to Tanger Outlet Center, is home to the largest collection of fully restored American LaFrance fire trucks and antique fire equipment in the country. It is a wonderful museum for the firefighter in all of us. Great demonstration for kids and people of all ages.

Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum 40 Patriots Point Rd. • Mount Pleasant (Map: O:2) • 843-884-2727 • patriotspoint.org Walk in the steps of heroes at Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum, home of the USS Yorktown, and SC’s most unique attraction. With fresh exhibits, educational programming and other one-of-a-kind events, Patriots Point is the only Charleston-area historic attraction that offers exciting new experiences all year long. See ad for $3 off coupon.

PLANTATIONS Boone Hall Plantation 1235 Long Point Road • Mount Pleasant (Map: L:4) • 843-884-4371 boonehallplantation.com • One of America’s oldest plantations with more than 320 years of history. Located 8 miles north of Charleston. The “Avenue of Oaks,” nine original slave cabins, house tours and shows included in admission. Mon.-Sat. 8:30 a.m.-6:30p.m.; Sun. 1-5 p.m.

TRAVELER Tidbit Built in 1771 as a commercial exchange and custom house, the Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon has been a Charleston landmark for nearly 250 years. Today, it is a nonproﬁt historic site that focuses on the American Revolution and colonial Charleston. Visit this historic site at 122 East Bay St. (oldexchange.org) 32 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com january-march 2020

Middleton Place National Historic Landmark • 4300 Ashley River Road (Highway 61) • Charleston • (area map) 843-556-6020 • middletonplace.org • An 18th-century rice plantation and National Historic Landmark comprising 65 acres of America’s oldest landscaped gardens. See the house museum, craftspeople in the stable yards or take an African-American focus tour. Open 9 a.m.-5 p.m.

USS Yorktown

Military History Comes Alive at Patriots Point By Holly Fisher

f you venture near the Charleston harbor or cross the Cooper River between Charleston and Mount Pleasant during your stay, it’s impossible to miss the USS Yorktown. The World War II aircraft carrier makes a striking impression as the centerpiece of Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum. Developed in the 1970s, Patriots Point has become one of the state’s most popular tourist attractions, welcoming more than 300,000 visitors each year. Its mission is to preserve the living history of the country’s brave military men and women, while telling their stories in a way that educates, honors and engages. Visitors can climb aboard the massive USS Yorktown, the 10th aircraft carrier to serve the U.S. Navy. The ship-turned-museum houses several educational exhibits along with the opportunity to see what life was like for the sailors on the ship. Built in less than 17 months in Newport News, Virginia, the Yorktown was commissioned on April 15, 1943. Nicknamed “Fighting Lady,” this ship played a significant role in the Pacific offensive that began in late 1943 and ended with the defeat of Japan in 1945. In the 1950s, the Yorktown was modernized to operate jet aircraft as an attack carrier. In 1957, she was re-designated an anti-submarine aircraft carrier, and would later earn five battle stars for service off Vietnam (1965-68). The ship also recovered the Apollo 8 astronauts and capsule in December 1968. The Yorktown was decommissioned in 1970 and placed in reserve. She was transported to the Charleston harbor in 1975. The USS Yorktown isn’t the only impressive fighting machine at Patriots Point. Visitors also can get an up close and personal look at the USS Laffey, the most decorated World War II era U.S. destroyer still in existence, and the USS Clamagore, an iconic Cold War submarine. The Clamagore is the only Guppy III submarine preserved in the United States.

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And don’t miss the 28 different aircraft dispersed among the exhibits. Those include single-seat carrier-based fighters F4F Wildcat and F6F Hellcat as well as a F6F Hellcat fighter and F-14 Tomcat. One of the newer exhibits at Patriots Point is the Vietnam Experience. This almost 3acre immersive exhibit brings the history of the Vietnam War to life using holograms of Marine officers. This 3-D production is set in a "Brown Water Navy" support base and a U.S. Marine Corps artillery fire base during the Tet Offensive and the Battle of Khe Sanh in 1968. The exhibit features more than a dozen components that simulate life during wartime, including a fire control bunker, mess hall, helicopters and more. Pay tribute to those who served with a stop at the Medal of Honor Museum located on board the Yorktown. The museum recognizes American heroes who made the ultimate sacrifice, ranging from the very first Medal of Honor recipients during the Civil War all the way the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan. It is also home to the Congressional Medal of Honor Society. From Feb. 19-23, visit Patriots Point to see the Rise Above traveling exhibit, a mobile movie theater that tours the country educating and inspiring people of all ages with the history and lessons of the Tuskegee Airmen. These war heroes broke down barriers with their courage and determination to serve our country in World War II. Their ability to triumph over adversity remains a compelling story to this day. Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum 40 Patriots Point Road, Mount Pleasant patriotspoint.org Open daily from 9 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Last tickets sold at 5 p.m. Tickets are $24 for adults; $21 for veterans/first responders; $19 for active duty/retired military and seniors; $16 for children 6-11; children under 6 are free. Check out these specialty tours at Patriots Point While you’re at Patriots Point, you can catch a tour to Fort Sumter or stay after dark to see the Yorktown at night on a ghost tour. Fort Sumter Tour Fort Sumter Tours provides the only commercial boat transportation to Fort Sumter. The tour boat departs daily at 1 p.m. from Patriots Point. Enjoy a 30-minute boat ride to Fort Sumter, where you’ll have about an hour to tour the fort, learning about its important role in the Civil War. Purchase tickets at fortsumtertours.com. USS Yorktown Ghost Tour Join Bulldog Tours for its Yorktown Ghost Tour to hear the stories of the American heroes who lived and died aboard the ship. In fact, many of them are rumored to haunt the aircraft carrier to this day. Commissioned in 1943, the “Fighting Lady” was once manned by more than 3,000 people and designed to fight off enemies all over the globe during World War II. Hear stories of ultimate sacrifice during this exclusive nighttime tour. Purchase tickets at bulldogtours.com. Water Taxi Take the Charleston Water Taxi to and from Patriots Point and downtown Charleston. Tours are currently operating on winter hours from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturdays. Check the website at charlestonwatertaxi.com for an updated schedule of tours. january-march 2020 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com 35

SEE + DO

WALKING TOURS

Bulldog Tours

The Spirits of Magnolia Cemetery Tour

18 Anson St. • Charleston • (Map: H:7) 843-722-TOUR • bulldogtours.com As seen on the Travel Channel’s “America’s Most Haunted Places,” this walking tour company will have you exhilarated and entertained. Choose from four tours: Ghost & Graveyard, The Dark Side of Charleston, Ghost Dungeon and Haunted Jail Tour.

70 Cunnington Ave. Charleston 843-722-TOUR • bulldogtours.com This 90-minute walking tour gives you exclusive access to Charleston’s most hauntingly beautiful Victorian burial grounds…at night! The 90-minute tour promises the best of Magnolia’s history, mystery, and spirits. Reservations Required.

Charleston Strolls Walk With History Mills House Hotel (corner of Meeting & Queen) 18 Anson St. • Charleston • (Map H:7) 843-722-8687 • charlestonstrolls.com charlestonstrolls.com • Featured in The New York Times, this two-hour tour is the best way to see Charleston’s Historic District. Famous landmarks, historic highlights, antebellum mansions, quaint alleys and hidden gardens. Everyday at 10 a.m. Requires reservation.

Haunted Yorktown Tour 40 Patriots Point Rd., Mount Pleasant 843-722-TOUR • bulldogtours.com | ome aboard the USS Yorktown aircraft carrier and hear stories of the American Heroes who lived, died and are still rumored to be there today. Exclusive night time access to area of the ship closed to the public.

Stop by the Red Barn at Palmetto Carriage Works (8 Guignard St.) to visit the horses, mules and other animals. (Fee for tours but no charge to visit the barn.)

That’s a Lot of Candles! Get ready to celebrate in 2020! Charleston is having a 350th birthday party. There will be several events over the course of the year to mark this major milestone. The ﬁrst will be a Founder’s Day Festival in April at Charles Towne Landing, a state park where the English ﬁrst settled in 1670. Other events include a music and arts festival in the summer and a Community Unity Celebration in November. Follow @CHS350 on Facebook and Instagram.

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Charleston in Bloom On just about every street you’ll find trees in bloom, shrubs bursting with color and window boxes filled with fragrant flowers. You can see these beautiful blooms – and many more – by simply walking the Battery, the streets South of Broad and in many of Charleston’s parks. Azaleas: With thousands of varieties of azaleas, they are a common shrub. You might not give them a second look most of the year but in the spring, they are certain to get your attention. Look for their mostly hot pink, red and white flowers in yards, gardens and parks all over town Wisteria: A high-climbing, trailing vine, wisteria can grow up to 70 feet long. In the spring, it drips clumps of lilac blooms in a showy display of springtime beauty. Wisteria is an invasive plant because its dense growth can choke out trees and other plants.

Jasmine: This plant’s intoxicating scent is a true signal spring has arrived. Confederate jasmine is commonly found here in coastal South Carolina and its fragrant clusters of white and yellow flowers bloom on twining stems in spring and into the summer.

Photo of a Rosa 'Blush Noisette' by Jim Martin

Crepe Myrtle: With its arching branches and flowers of bright pink, red and white, this tree is a Southern staple. Once the crepe myrtle shows its colors, you know spring is on its way.

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Stop and smell the roses Charleston is also home to the Noisette rose, a hardy rose that can withstand a hot Southern summer and cool winter temperatures. These roses also have a high resistance to disease. But what’s truly special about this rose is its history and tie to Charleston. According to the Charleston Horticultural Society, John Champneys of Charleston crossed a rose commonly called “Old Blush” with another variety called Rosa Moschata to create Champneys’ Pink Cluster, America’s first hybridized rose. Champneys gifted the rose to his friend Philippe Noisette, a French botanist, who refined the hybrid to create the Blush Noisette with delicate blooms and pastel colors.

Shop + Savor Charleston was founded in the late 1600s as a port city, and it has remained a thriving place to buy goods ever since. Buy local and enjoy the rewards.

Shop King Street On the second Sunday of each month, the street is closed so visitors and locals can enjoy shopping, dining and entertainment.

WHETHER YOU’RE SHOPPING FOR SOUVENIRS, A DRESS FOR DINNER OR A BOX OF BENNE WAFERS, YOU’LL FIND JUST WHAT YOU WANT IN THE CITY’S MANY RETAIL OUTLETS. The Charleston peninsula has boutiques, national retailers and a market full of Southern charm.

Dacuba’s Fine Jewelry Photo:Bette Walker Photography

84 N. Market St. • Charleston • (Map: H:7/8) 843-853-0103 • dacubasjewelry.citymax.com Nestled in the heart of Charleston, Dacuba’s is a unique fine jewelry store with a wonderful selection of sterling silver and 14kt gold jewelry. Its classic Charleston “Southern Gate” collection is fashioned after the wrought-iron work seen throughout this historical city.

Terrace Oaks Antique Mall 2037 Maybank Highway • James Island (area map) • 843-795-9689 • Mon-Sat. 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. • terraceoaksantiques.com A leader in the Charleston area for multidealer antique shops since 1988. The 10,000-squarefoot, climate-controlled shop houses 90+ booths with all different tastes and styles. When it comes to antiques, they have just about anything your heart desires.

Brackish bow ties are handcrafted in Charleston using all natural, sustainably sourced feathers. Each piece is one of a kind and takes four to ﬁve hours to craft. Visit brackishbowties.com to order online or ﬁnd a list of local retailers.

TRAVELER Tidbit Join the Charleston Gallery Association for a free evening Art Walk on the ﬁrst Friday of each month. Stroll through some 40 galleries admiring paintings, sculpture and photography. Or visit charlestongalleryassociation.com to download a free map of area galleries and plan your own art walk.

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SHOP + SAVOR

SHOPPING

First-Time Visitors Guide Charleston has so much to offer that it can be a little overwhelming trying to figure out what to see and do first. If you only have a short time to visit or if it’s your first time in the Holy City, there are few things you just can’t miss. We’ve compiled a list of the must-visit attractions and tours to see while you’re here.

Carriage Tour Book a horse-drawn carriage ride through downtown. Your tour guide is randomly assigned a route and will delight your tour group with stories and facts about Charleston from her earliest days to the present. Bus Tour Even if the weather isn’t cooperating, you can still take in the sights with a bus tour. Board a climate-controlled bus to see some of historic Charleston’s best views from architecture to gardens. Hit the Beach There are amazing public beaches in Charleston, each with its own vibe and amenities. Visit Folly Beach, Kiawah Island or check out Isle of Palms or Sullivan’s Island, both of which are located near Mount Pleasant. Shem Creek One of the most picturesque waterways in the area, Shem Creek in Mount Pleasant is a great spot for kayaking or simply enjoying drinks and a fresh seafood dinner with a water view. Plantation Tour Visit one of Charleston’s many plantations to see how wealthy plantation owners lived and for a deeper understanding of slave life in the Lowcountry. Area plantations include Boone Hall Plantation, Drayton Hall Plantation, Magnolia Plantation, McLeod Plantation and Middleton Place Plantation. 44 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com january-march 2020

TO SAVE MONEY, EXPERIENCE ALL OF THESE ATTRACTIONS AND MANY MORE VISIT TOURPASS.COM AND CHOOSE A 1, 2, 3, 4 OR 5-DAY PASS

Rainbow Row If you’re walking down Market or King streets, take a detour to Rainbow Row and Battery Park starting on East Bay Street. Rainbow Row includes a stretch of 13 brightly colored historic homes that you’ve probably seen in famous photographs. Rainbow Row also sits along the Battery, a Civil War-era defensive seawall and promenade along the Charleston harbor. Continue along the Battery to White Point Garden, a public park on the tip of the peninsula. Walk the park to see several statues and monuments. Walking History Tour To fully immerse yourself in Charleston culture and history, walk the historic streets on a history tour. These guided tours offer a whole new perspective on the Holy City and afterward you’ll feel like a local with all your newfound Charleston knowledge. Historic Harbor Take a harbor tour for a view of Charleston’s skyline and a closer look at the spot where the Civil War began. On April 12, 1861, the Confederate artillery opened fire on Fort Sumter in Charleston’s harbor. Fort Sumter surrendered 34 hours later, and Union forces tried for nearly four years to take it back. Angel Oak Take the picturesque drive to Johns Island to stand under the branches of the majestic Angel Oak tree. Part of a public city park, its canopy of branches spans 17,000 square feet. The tree is located at 3688 Angel Oak Road.

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Shop your way around Charleston DOWNTOWN CHARLESTON ■ King Street is a shopper’s paradise lined with national retailers, locally owned boutiques with clothing, housewares and handmade items. If you’re in the market for rare finds, make your way down Lower King Street (south of Market Street), the city’s antique district. ■ On the second Sunday of each month, several blocks of King Street are closed off to vehicles, and people (and pets) flood the streets for open-air dining, music, shopping and entertainment. ■ The City Market stretches from Meeting Street to East Bay Street and is home to more than 300 vendors selling everything from art and jewelry to T-shirts and sweetgrass baskets. ■ Visit the Night Market from 6:3010:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday for live music and local arts and crafts. SUMMERVILLE Take the main Summerville exit off Interstate 26 and follow the signs to the charming historic district and town square. There you’ll find loads of local boutiques and shops, including 12 antique stores, coffee shops and restaurants, a community theater and one of the top quilt shops in the country. From 5:30-8:30 p.m. on the third Thursday of each month, businesses stay open later and the town square is filled with entertainment.

MOUNT PLEASANT ■ Mount Pleasant Towne Centre on Highway 17 North is home to national retailers, local boutiques and restaurants. Shop at Belk and Belk Men’s Store, Copper Penny, Palmetto Moon, Hairy Winston Pet Boutique, Athleta and more. mtpleasanttownecentre.com ■ Belle Hall Shopping Center is located on Long Point Road ( just off Interstate 526). Stop by Wonder Works for a large selection of children's toys or pick up something new to wear at II Brunettes. Shop for accessories, furniture and gifts at Lavender Hill Designs. The Coastal Cupboard has a selection of specialty food items and cookware. shopbellehall.com NORTH CHARLESTON Tanger Outlets has dozens of nationally known retailers offering apparel for adults and children, shoes, accessories, housewares and jewelry. The area also has several restaurants and is easily accessible from both Interstates 526 and 26. tangeroutlet.com/charleston

Share your Charleston shopping moments on our Facebook page at facebook.com/travelermag january-march 2020 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com 47

Eat + Drink Charleston’s diverse culinary scene is amazing. Innovative chefs and their dishes will dazzle the taste buds and warm the heart. Charleston has great taste!

From shrimp and grits and crab cakes to local craft beer and spirits, you’ll discover why Charleston food is fabulous.

TRUST US, YOU WON’T LEAVE CHARLESTON HUNGRY. In fact you might spend half your vacation simply deciding which delectable restaurant to try next. Our city has world-class chefs cooking up plates filled with Southern goodness. Our desserts are claiming national recognition.

EAT + DRINK

FINE DINING Cru Cafe´ 18 Pinckney St. • Charleston • (Map: H:7) 843-534-2434 • crucafe.com • In an 18th-century home on Pinckney Street, Charlestonians sip mint julep tea on the porch and dine on upscale comfort food at John Zucker’s Cru Cafe. “Do it right and use the best possible ingredients” is his mantra. Lunch and dinner.

Middleton Place Restaurant 4300 Ashley River Road • Charleston (area map) • 843-556-6020 • middletonplace.org Savor Lowcountry cuisine while taking in views of America’s oldest landscaped gardens. For lunch, visitors enjoy a three-course, prix fixe menu. Lunch served daily. Dinner guests pay no admission after 5 p.m. and can stroll through the gardens prior to dinner service, which begins at 6 p.m.

SpiritLine Dinner Cruise Departs from 40 Patriots Point Road Mount Pleasant • (Map: O:2) • 843-722-2628 spiritlinecruises.com • The SpiritLine Dinner Cruise aboard the Spirit of Carolina features fine cuisine prepared to order onboard, entertainment, dancing, fully stocked bar and a magnificent cruise on Charleston Harbor. Call for reservations.

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EAT + DRINK

TASTE OF THE SOUTH: BOILED PEANUTS Want to get a true Southern experience while visiting Charleston? Pick up a bag of boiled peanuts – a true southern staple perfect for any season. Boiled peanuts were most likely brought here by African slaves. During the summer months, the slaves would harvest peanut crops and the surplus peanuts would be boiled – an opportunity for families and neighbors to gather and socialize. Boiled peanuts became mainstream in the South in the early 1900s. Boiled peanuts are made using green peanuts that are recently harvested and haven’t been dried. You can also use raw peanuts, which are uncooked but dried. They must be soaked in water overnight before boiling. The water is salted and in go the peanuts. Some people add Cajun seasoning for a spicy kick. On May 1, 2006, boiled peanuts became the official snack food of South Carolina. Read more about the history of boiled peanuts at nationalpeanutboard.org. Find boiled peanuts at markets and roadside stands around Charleston.

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5 Must-Eat Iconic Charleston Dishes

By Holly Fisher

If your No. 1 vacation goal is to eat your way through Charleston, you’re in good company. Charleston has become a serious foodie city over the last several years, boasting worldclass restaurants and Instagram-worthy dishes. Visitors can’t get enough of the city’s mouth-watering cuisine. Plus, Charleston’s rich food history is evident on many menus where you’ll find iconic dishes.

1. BARBECUE Pile your plate with slow-cooked pork and sides of mac ‘n cheese, coleslaw and beans. Next, choose from a selection of sauces. South Carolina is the only place you’ll find all four kinds of barbecue sauces: mustard, vinegar and pepper, light tomato and heavy tomato. Mustard sauce is unique to South Carolina and originated from German immigrants who settled in the center of the state. Some top local barbecue joints: • Fiery Ron’s Home Team BBQ (hometeambbq.com) • Jim ‘N Nick’s Bar-B-Q ( jimnnicks.com) • Melvin’s Barbecue (melvinsbbq.com) • Swig & Swine (swigandswinebbq.com) • Scott’s Bar-B-Que (thescottsbbq.com) And if you want some Texas-style brisket, check out Lewis Barbecue (lewisbarbecue.com). Caution: meat sweats are real, y’all. 2. SHRIMP AND GRITS A true Southern staple, grits can be found on plenty of menus all over Charleston – breakfast, lunch and dinner. Styles vary from grits with simply butter or cheese all the way to grits adorned with ham and sausage. A favorite is shrimp and grits. At Page’s Okra Grill in Mount Pleasant, for example, their signature shrimp and grits dish features lightly battered and fried cheddar cheese grits topped with smoked andouille cream sauce and pan-seared shrimp. Order shrimp and grits at these restaurants: • Acme Lowcountry Kitchen (acmelowcountrykitchen.com) • Early Bird Diner (earlybirddiner.com) • Husk (huskrestaurant.com) • Page’s Okra Grill (pagesokragrill.com) • Slightly North of Broad (snobcharleston.com) 3. OYSTERS The briny taste of the Atlantic Ocean combines with the Lowcountry soil to create a truly unique oyster flavor. Charleston restaurants serve oysters in all manner of ways: fried, steamed, broiled, smoked and baked. You can enjoy an oyster stew and, of course, oysters served raw with a side of lemon juice. Order oysters as an appetizer or meal at these local spots: • 167 Raw (167raw.com/Charleston) • Charleston Crab House (charlestoncrabhouse.com) • Leon’s Oyster Shop (leonsoystershop.com) • Oyster House (oysterhouse.menu) • Pearlz Oyster Bar (pearlzoysterbar.com) • The Darling Oyster Bar (thedarling.com) 52 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com january-march 2020

4. FRIED GREEN TOMATOES A mainstay on Southern restaurant menus, fried green tomatoes actually have their roots in the Northeast and Midwest (according to discoversouthcarolina.com), but the South has adopted these fried goodies as their own. You'll find them adorning sandwiches, topped with pimento cheese or as a simple appetizer. Sample some fried goodness at these restaurants: • Cru Café (crucafe.com) • Jestine’s Kitchen ( jestineskitchen.com) • Magnolia’s (magnoliascharleston.com) • Poogan’s Porch (poogansporch.com) •Virginia’s on King (holycityhospitality.com/ virginias-on-king/) 5. SHE-CRAP SOUP The very first bowl of she-crab soup was made in Charleston at the Rutledge House, where Charleston Mayor Robert Goodwyn Rhett lived in the 1920s (today, the house is an inn). Rhett was expecting a visit from President William Taft and asked his butler to dress up their usual crab soup in honor of the presidential visit. The butler added orange crab eggs, giving the soup a bright color and extra flavor, according to Charming Inns. This new recipe took hold and is part of many a Charleston menu. Start your meal with a bowl of this Charleston original at one of these restaurants: • 82 Queen (82queen.com) • Blossom (blossomcharleston.com) • Fleet Landing Restaurant & Bar (fleetlanding.net) • Hyman's Seafood (hymanseafood.com) • Oyster House (oysterhouse.menu) A great way to experience these Charleston delicacies is to book a culinary history tour. Charleston Food Tours, managed by Bulldog Tours, offers a Savor the Flavors of Charleston tour daily. Visitors make stops on and near Market Street sampling such dishes as grits, fried green tomatoes, pimento cheese fritters, barbecue sliders, shecrab soup and biscuits. Along the way, tour guides provide a detailed account of Charleston’s culinary history, said Diane Ball, group sales manager. Guides explain why we eat the way we do and how, over the years, Charleston has had such a renaissance of food. “Chefs have new ideas and techniques while drawing on the old and traditional,” she said. This comprehensive culinary tour sets visitors up to truly understand their Charleston dining experiences, Ball said. “We like to think when people take this tour, then any restaurant they pick in Charleston, they are going to understand the menu and have some sort of idea why particular places are cooking the way they do.” SAVOR THE FLAVORS CHARLESTON FOOD TOUR Savor the Flavors Charleston Food Tour Tours are offered daily at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m.; meet at 18 Anson St. Tickets start at $65; book online at bulldogtours.com/tours/food Savor the Flavors of Upper King Street Tours are offered at 3 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday; meet at the Charleston Visitor Center, 375 Meeting St. Tickets start at $65; book online at bulldogtours.com/tours/food january-march 2020 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com 53

EAT + DRINK

CASUAL DINING Charleston Crab House Downtown: 41 S. Market St. • (Map I:7) 843-795-1963. James Island: 145 Wappoo Creek Dr. • (Area Map) • 843-853-2900 charlestoncrabhouse.com • Serving Fresh Lowcountry seafood everyday! Indoor/patio, casual and family friendly. Visit James Island for waterfront dining or Market Street for rooftop dining. Reservations recommended.

East Bay Deli 334 East Bay St. • Charleston • (Map: I:5) 843-216-5473 • 1120 Oakland Market Road Mount Pleasant • (Map: L:5) • 843-216-5473 9135 University Blvd. • North Charleston 843-553-7374 • 4405 Dorchester Road North Charleston • (Map: W:4) • 843-747-1235 New York-style deli using only quality products like Certified Angus Beef. The varied menu menu comes with many options: soups, chili, both hearty and heart-healthy sandwiches, wraps, giant spuds and desserts.

Oyster House on Market 35 S. Market St. • Charleston • (Map H:7) 843-723-1151 • oysterhouse.menu • Come get fresh with us! Oyster House on Market is the newest restaurant in downtown Charleston! We are a causal fine dining establishment with a focus on oysters and seafood. Open for lunch and dinner daily.

DRINK + NIGHTLIFE Deep Water Vineyard 6775 Bears Bluff Rd. • Wadmalaw Island (Area Map) • 843-559-6867 deepwatervineyard.com Open: Tue - Sat 10 am - 5 pm • After indulging in a tasting at Charleston's only winery, stay and relax with us - we have many animals, a garden, outdoor games, and 50 acres to explore. It’s a full day of fun for the whole family.

Located on Wadmalaw Island, the Charleston Tea Plantation (charlestonteaplantation.com) is the only place in the United States where tea is grown and produced. Visit the factory to see how the tea is produced and then stop by the gift shop to purchase some tea to take home. 54 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com january-march 2020

Love these Landmarks Soak up Charleston history at these key attractions

earn the history of Charleston and see some of the city’s most beautiful public spaces by visiting these area landmarks. These attractions are free or low cost. Be sure to download the free Traveler of Charleston mobile app for information and directions to all of these landmarks and more. (travelerofcharleston.com/download-the-app) Angel Oak Estimated to be 300-400 years old, the majestic Angel Oak is worth a visit. The oak tree towers 65 feet high and has a circumference of 25.5 feet. Its area of shade is 17,000 square feet and its largest limb has a circumference of 11.5 feet, and a length of 89 feet. No admission to visit the park and take photos, plus there’s a gift shop and picnic area. Address: 3688 Angel Oak Road, Johns Island

Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge Opened in July 2005, this cable-stayed bridge spanning the Cooper River has become an iconic symbol of Charleston. This architectural marvel has a 2-mile bike/pedestrian lane called Wonders’ Way. Free parking is available on East Bay Street in downtown Charleston and also on the Mount Pleasant side at Memorial Waterfront Park so you can walk the bridge for a bird’s eye view of the Charleston harbor.

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Pitt Street Bridge

Fort Moultrie Visit Fort Moultrie on Sullivan’s Island for a greater understanding of history from the American Revolution through World War II. Insider tip: Walk the beach there for stunning views of Fort Sumter and the Charleston skyline from a distance. Address: 1214 Middle St., Sullivan’s Island

Fort Sumter Calling all history buffs! Visit the spot where the first shots of the Civil War were fired. Located in the Charleston harbor, Fort Sumter also played key roles in the Revolutionary War against the British and was Charleston’s main defense from seaside attacks. In 1966, the site was listed on the National Register of Historic Places. You can visit the fort via ferry operated by Fort Sumter Tours. Tours depart from the Aquarium Wharf downtown or at Patriots Point in Mount Pleasant. january-march 2020 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com 57

Marion Square Spanning more than 6 acres in the heart of downtown Charleston, Marion Square was established as a parade ground for the state arsenal under construction on the north side of the square. It is best known as the former Citadel Green because The Citadel occupied the arsenal from 1843 until 1922, when the military college moved to Charleston’s west side. The name was then changed to Marion Square, in honor of Francis Marion. This city park hosts a number of events and festivals throughout the year. Address: 329 Meeting St., Charleston

Pitt Street Bridge Once a trolley bridge that connected Sullivan’s Island and Mount Pleasant, the Pitt Street Bridge in Mount Pleasant’s Old Village is a beautiful spot for walking and jogging. Fish from the pier or kayak in the Charleston harbor. The park is also a spectacular spot for catching the sunset with the Ravenel Bridge in the background.

Old Exchange & Provost Dungeon The Old Exchange is a must-see for all Charleston visitors. During your visit, you will discover this building’s integral role in our country’s quest for independence and its important service to our young nation. The Old Exchange began its existence as a public building and remains so today. Take a tour (admission: $5-$10) to see various aspects of Charleston history during the Colonial and Revolutionary eras and put into context the people and events of the period. Address: 122 East Bay St., Charleston

Rainbow Row Rainbow Row is the name for a series of colorful historic houses located north of Tradd Street and south of Elliot Street on East Bay Street. It is referred to as Rainbow Row for the pastel colors used to paint the houses. It is a common tourist attraction and is one of the most photographed areas of Charleston. You may hear a number of tales as to why the houses are painted so colorfully. One is so intoxicated sailors coming in from the port could remember which house to bunk in.

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The Battery The Battery is a landmark defensive seawall and promenade in Charleston, famous for its stately antebellum homes. Named for a Civil War coastal defense artillery battery at the site, it stretches along the lower shores of the Charleston peninsula, bordered by the Ashley and Cooper rivers. Address: 2 Murray Blvd., Charleston

St. Michaels Church & Graveyard St. Michael’s Church is the oldest church edifice in the City of Charleston, standing on the site of the first Anglican Church built south of Virginia. In the 1680s, a small wooden church – the first in the new town of Charles Town – was built on this spot for the families of the Church of England and named St. Philip’s. John Rutledge, the first governor of South Carolina and signer of the Declaration of Independence and U.S. Constitution is buried in the graveyard here. Address: 80 Meeting St., Charleston

Riley Waterfront Park Riley Waterfront Park is a 12-acre park along a one-half mile stretch of the Cooper River in Charleston. The public park has a pier with swings and it’s a great place to see some dolphins and snap some photos of the harbor. Be sure to dip your toes in the Pineapple Fountain – another iconic Charleston symbol. Address: 1 Vendue Range, Charleston

Charles Pinckney National Historic Site Visitor Center Charles Pinckney was a principal author and a signer of the U.S. Constitution. This historic site is a 28-acre remnant of Pinckney's Snee Farm, a rice and indigo plantation. Located on site is an 1828 coastal cottage that serves as a museum and visitor center. Exhibits tell the story of Pinckney and his contributions to the United States as a young and emerging nation as well as detailing 18th-century plantation life for free and enslaved people at Snee Farm. Address: 1254 Long Point Road, Mount Pleasant

St. Philips Church & Graveyard Building and graveyard are open to the public Monday to Friday. Established in 1681, St. Philip’s is the oldest religious congregation in South Carolina. The first St. Philip’s Church, a wooden building, was built between 1680 and 1681 at the corner of Broad and Meeting streets on the present day site of St. Michael’s Episcopal Church. It was damaged in a hurricane in 1710 and a new St. Phillip’s Church was begun a few blocks away on Church Street. Address: 146 Church St., Charleston january-march 2020 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com 59

Charleston Area Events january – march 2020 Lowcountry Oyster Festival JANUARY 1-31

Museum Mile Month – During the month of January, enjoy access to participating Museum Mile sites with the purchase of one ticket price ($25 adults; $10 children). Spend the month learning about Charleston’s rich history and culture at 13 different sites. charlestonmuseummile.org

4-5

Lowcountry Civil War & Artifact Show – Civil War relics, muskets and swords, historical art and prints, old coins, old newspapers, books and collectibles will be available for purchase at this event in Mount Pleasant. facebook.com/ SouthCarolinaCivilWarHeritageTrails

9-19

Charleston Restaurant Week – Dozens of restaurants all over the Charleston area offer specially priced menus. charlestonrestaurantassociation.com | 843-577-4030

Charleston Marathon – This 26.2-mile run showcases the beauty and the history of the Lowcountry, starting in downtown Charleston and ending in North Charleston. Half-marathon and 5K run options are available. charlestonmarathon.com

Royal Philharmonic Orchestra – Enjoy the amazing sounds of this world-renowned orchestra at the Charleston Gaillard Center. gaillardcenter.org | 832-242-3099

17-2/2

“Over the River and Through the Woods” – Nick is an Italian-American Jersey guy who’s made it. His career is flourishing, his grandparents meet him for dinner every Sunday, and he’s just secured his dream job. There’s just one problem: it’s in Seattle. When his grandparents find out he’s planning to move across the country, they scheme to find a way to keep Nick in New Jersey by any means necessary. Performed by Flowertown Players in downtown Summerville. flowertownplayers.org 843-875-9251

23-26

Charleston Jazz Festival – Celebrate Charleston’s rich jazz heritage as legends and emerging artists gather to perform a wide range of styles, including swing, salsa, blues, Brazilian, the American Songbook and more. charlestonjazz.com/festival

25-26

“The Lion, The Witch and the Wardrobe” – Journey with Peter, Susan, Edmund and Lucy through a magical wardrobe in the magnificent world of Narnia, in C.S. Lewis’s classic tale of adventure and discovery. Performed by Charleston Stage at the historic Dock Street Theatre. charlestonstage.com | 843-577-7183

24-26

Kiawah Comedy Weekend – Get away to Kiawah Island Golf Resort for two nights of nonstop laughter with some of the nation’s most acclaimed comedians. Packages include exclusive table seating and a Q&A with select comedians. kiawahcomedyweekend.com | 800-654-2924

Lowcountry Oyster Festival – Join in the world’s largest oyster festival at Boone Hall Plantation in Mount Pleasant. More than 80,000 pounds of oysters are part of this favorite winter event that includes oyster shucking and oyster-eating contests as well as live music, wine, a selection of domestic and imported beers, a children’s area and a food court. charlestonrestaurantassociation.com | 843-577-4030

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FEBRUARY 5-23

“Our Town” – Discover our common humanity in this simple tale of a boy and a girl who fall in love in Grover’s Corners, New Hampshire. Performed by Charleston Stage at the historic Dock Street Theatre. charlestonstage.com | 843-577-7183

Bacon and Bourbon – Enjoy unlimited samples of bacon dishes and bourbon tastings plus live music, bull riding championship, laser skeet shooting and a cigar cabana at the North Charleston Convention Center. baconandbourbonsc.com

Cork Shuckin' Festival – Head to Deep Water Vineyard on Wadmalaw Island for a family and dog-friendly festival with local oysters, music, food trucks, beer and wine tastings. deepwatervineyard.com

Charleston Coffee Fest – Celebrate Charleston’s coffee culture at this annual event in its new location, Lo-Fi Brewing. The event features local coffee shops, local and regional roasters, brunch, artisans and kids’ activities. charlestoncoffeefest.com

14-16

Southeastern Wildlife Exposition – Conservationists, art collectors and nature enthusiasts come from all over the country for this three-day celebration of art, conservation and wildlife. Enjoy art shows, environmental educational programs plus animal demonstrations and culinary events. sewe.com | 843-723-1748

28-3/15 “Six Degrees of Separation” – Inspired by true events, this play follows the trail of a young black con man, Paul, who insinuates himself into the lives of a wealthy New York couple, claiming he is the son of actor Sidney Poitier and that he knows their son from school. Captivated by his intelligence and his fascinating conversation, the New York socialite scene welcomes Paul with open arms until the pieces start unraveling. footlightplayers.net | 843-722-4487

MARCH 4-8

Charleston Wine + Food Festival – Food lovers won’t want to miss this annual celebration of culinary excellence. Enjoy the flavors of Charleston’s culinary scene and renowned culture at numerous events featuring outstanding chefs from around the country as well as pastry chefs, authors, beverage professionals and food writers. charlestonwineandfood.com | 843-727-9998

11-4/18

Festival of Houses and Garden – Explore the city’s historic district in a series of tours showcasing Charleston’s distinctive architecture, history, gardens and culture. A number of special events are also part of this springtime event, including morning history walks, educational luncheons, musical concerts and more. historiccharleston.org | 843-722-3405

Southeastern Wildlife Expo

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

brewery/distillery article. For even more Charleston area events, check our online calendar at travelerofcharleston.com/events.

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

brewery/distillery article. area events, check our online calendar at travelerofcharleston.com/events. For even more Charleston 14

St. Paddy’s Day Block Party & Parade – Wear green and celebrate with live music, street vendors, a kids’ zone and more in the Olde Village of North Charleston. The parade begins at noon and festivities continue until 7 p.m. northcharleston.org 843-740-5854

6-8

Charleston Antiques Show – About 30 dealers of fine arts and antiques from across the world will showcase paintings, jewelry, furniture, rugs, decorative objects, silver and more during this show at the Charleston Gaillard Center. historiccharleston.org 843-722-3405

Pet Fest – Bring your four-legged and leashed friends to Mount Pleasant Palmetto Islands County Park for exhibits, demonstrations, experts and entertainment. Pet-related organizations and businesses will showcase their causes, products and services. charlestoncountyparks.com

ONGOING EVENTS Lights of Magnolia – Through March 15 at Magnolia Plantation and Gardens, this is a 9-acre experience of larger-than-life Chinese lanterns in the shapes of flowers, animals, traditional Chinese symbols, and more. lightsofmagnolia.com Weekend Wine Down – Each Saturday from noon to 4 p.m. at Deep Water Vineyard on Wadmalaw Island. Enjoy food, music and wine tastings. deepwatervineyard.com Free camellia walks at Magnolia Plantation and Gardens – Enjoy the 20,000 camellias blooming at this historic plantation. Walk are offered daily through March. magnoliaplantation.com/camellias.html Black Fedora Comedy Mystery Theatre – Audience-interactive comic mysteries run most evenings. charlestonmysteries.com Night Market – From 6:30-10:30 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays beginning in March. This event showcases local artists, food vendors and designers in the historic Charleston City Market. thecharlestoncitymarket.com 2nd Sunday on King Street – On the second Sunday of each month. Street is closed to vehicular traffic from Queen Street North to Calhoun Street. 2ndsundayonkingstreet.com Third Thursdays – Head to historic downtown Summerville from 5:30-8:30 p.m. every third Thursday. Shops and restaurants are open late, and some have special promotions. summervilledream.org First Friday Art Walk – From 5-8 p.m. the first Friday of each month. More than 40 galleries from Broad Street to Upper King Street are open late, many serving complimentary refreshments. charlestongalleryassociation.com Charles Towne Landing events – Special educational events and historic interpretation programs are ongoing. southcarolinaparks.com | 843-852-4200 The Sound of Charleston – Jazz, gospel, Gershwin, spirituals and Civil War songs at Circular Congregational Church. soundofcharleston.com * Event details are subject to change. Please call ahead or check the listed website for confirmation.

For even more Charleston area events, check our online calendar at travelerofcharleston.com/events 62 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com january-march 2020

Coffee Shops You’ll Love hether you need an afternoon pick-me-up after a busy day of sightseeing or you simply want to relax with a morning latte in the heart of downtown Charleston, there are plenty of great choices. The Charleston area has some delicious local coffee shops that make a mean mocha and serve up locally made pastries, muffins and breakfast sandwiches. Here are a few of our favorite picks:

Second State Coffee 70 1/2 Beaufain St., Charleston secondstatecoffee.com This cozy coffeehouse is outfitted with custom-built tables made from heart pine wood used in the construction of some of Charleston’s oldest buildings. Enjoy a selection of coffees from around the world. A second location is in Mount Pleasant at 766 S. Shelmore Blvd. Kudu Coffee & Craft Beer 4 Vanderhorst St., Charleston kuducoffeeandcraftbeer.com This coffeehouse roasts its own specialty coffee plus espresso beverages. Order up pastries and sandwiches made by local bakeries WildFlour Pastry, Normandy Farm Artisan Bakery and Saffron Bakery. Bitty & Beau’s Coffee 159 Church St., Charleston bittyandbeauscoffee.com This coffee shop is a feel good stop! The shop is run by people with intellectual and developmental disabilities who provide a truly unique customer service experience. Metto Coffee & Tea 354 W. Coleman Blvd., Mount Pleasant mettocoffee.com A favorite among locals for a cup of morning joe while doing a little work or meeting with friends or colleagues. Enjoy specialty coffee and made-from-scratch pastries and paninis.

Vintage Coffee Café 219 Simmons St., Mount Pleasant vintagecoffeecafe.com Vintage transformed an old quaint Mount Pleasant house into the perfect coffee spot. Don’t miss the delicious gourmet toast bar. There’s a large outdoor area for kids to play while you enjoy some morning quiet time. Muddy Waters Coffee Bar 1739 Maybank Highway, Charleston muddywaterscoffee.com Muddy Waters brews Counter Culture Coffee from Durham, N.C., plus a selection of teas. The walls are filled with exquisite art and the corners are coffee shop cozy. Orange Spot Coffeehouse 1011 E. Montague Ave., North Charleston orangespotcoffee.com This coffee shop is located in the heart of North Charleston’s popular Park Circle. Stop by for one of the house-made seasonal creations as well as a selection of breakfast and lunch items Coastal Coffee Roasters 108 E. 3rd North St., Summerville coastalcoffeeroasters.com Located in downtown Summerville, Coastal Coffee Roasters has been micro-roasting specialty coffees since 2010. Stop by for a specialty coffee or to grab breakfast or lunch.

january-march 2020 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com 63

MAPS

Famous Landmarks · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·

Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge, J:1 Battery, G:10 Charleston Museum, G:4 Charleston Place, G:7 Children’s Museum, G:4 Citadel Military College, B:1 College of Charleston, F:6 Dock Street Theatre, G:8 Four Corners of Law, G:8 Gaillard Municipal Auditorium, H:6 Gibbes Museum, G:H King Street Shopping District, G-6:7 Marion Square, G:5 Market Hall & City Market, H:7 Old Exchange & Provost Dungeon, H:9 Old Slave Mart Museum, H:8 Rainbow Row, H:9 South Carolina Aquarium, J:5 St. Philip’s Church, H:8 St. Michael’s Church, G:9 The Powder Magazine, G:8 Visitor Center, G:4 Waterfront Park/Pineapple Fountain, I:8

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K MAPS

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MAPS 66 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com january-march 2020

Getting Around Some transportation options for getting around downtown Charleston and the surrounding areas. ■ WATER TAXI: Transports visitors from downtown Charleston (Aquarium Wharf or Waterfront Park) to Mount Pleasant (Patriots Point or Charleston Harbor Resort and Marina). Taxi runs each hour; $12 for allday passes, 3 and under are free. No reservations needed. Call 843-330-2989 for pickup. charlestonwatertaxi.com ■ BUS: The CARTA bus system has regular routes that travel to major destinations. The DASH trolley service is available free of charge if you’re traveling around downtown Charleston. ridecarta.com | 843-724-7420 ■ RICKSHAWS AND PEDICABS: Available in downtown Charleston as are taxi cabs for transportation around the Lowcountry.

■ UBER AND LYFT Ride services are available in the area.

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MAPS

Charleston Area Map

MAPS

Charleston Metro Area Maps 1

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Adventure Sightseeing Tours Audubon Center at Beidler Forest Barrier Island Eco Tours Boone Hall Plantation Brew Hop Pass Bulldog Walking Tours Caw Caw Interpretive Center Charleston Crab House Charleston Food Tours Charleston Harbor Tours Charleston Strolls Charleston.com Cru Café Dacuba's Jewelry Deep Water Vineyard East Bay Deli Edmondston-Alston House Fort Sumter Tours GrayLine Bus Tours Harbor & Carriage Tour Combo Haunted Yorktown Ghost Tours Middleton Place Middleton Place Restaurant Nature Adventures North Charleston Fire Museum Oyster House on Market Palmetto Carriage Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum Schooner Pride SpiritLine Dinner Cruise SpiritLine Harbor Tours Spirits of Magnolia Cemetery Terrace Oaks Antique Mall The Reel Deal Fishing Charters Tour Pass Charleston Tour Video Network

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