Big Island Traveler by Traveler Media

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

BIG ISLAND T R AV E L E R THE REEF IS CALLING WHY WE NEED HEALTHY CORAL

L E G E N DA RY S H O P P I N G & D I N I N G myhawaiitraveler.com

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HAWAII

take the colors of Hawaii home

Mauna Lani Bay Hotel Four Seasons Resort at Hualalai Mauna Kea Beach Hotel

OAHU Halekuliani Hotel The Kahala Hotel and Resort

MAUI Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea

CONTENTS 2

24 WELCOME TO HAWAI‘I Big Views, Big Island

67 WHAT WE LOVE NOW Trending Culinary Experiences

38 KONA COAST From Kailua to Ka‘ū

70 THE HOT SPOT Roy's Waikoloa Bar & Grill

56 KOHALA COAST The Sunny South and Historic North

72 CULINARY CONVERGENCE Renowned Chefs Dish on Cooking in Hawai‘i this Fall

104 EAST SIDE From Lush Tropics to Fiery Kīlauea Volcano 8 LOCAL VIBE This 'n That Hawai‘i Style 20 LOCAL RAVES & FAVES My Big Island 22 WHY DON'T YOU... Add These to Your Itinerary 30 REEF LIFE MATTERS Why We Need Healthy Coral 40 KA‘ŪPŪLEHU The History and Hidden Secrets

82 BREWING ALOHA Award-winning Beers Around the Big Island 86 BIG ISLAND'S SEAFOOD BOUNTY Live, Fresh and Sustainable Maine Lobsters, Dungeness Crabs, Local Fish and So Much More 90 PIGS IN PARADISE Raising the Bar on Pork 98 LAVA MEETS SEA Exploring Chain of Craters Road

50 BIRDS OF A FEATHER Hawai‘i's Feathered Friends of Past and Present

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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CONTENTS

BIG ISLAND T R AV E L E R

THE LIFE & STYLE OF HAWAI‘I

PUBLISHER Kevin Geiger

EDITOR IN CHIEF Mun Sok Geiger

CONTRIBUTORS

COPY EDITOR Joseph Kwak

myhawaiitraveler.com www.traveler.media

Traveler Media PO BOX 159 Kamuela, HI 96743 For subscription, advertising or distribution information contact: info@traveler-media.com

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Reproduction in whole or in part without permission from the publisher is prohibited. Traveler Media makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information supplied in this publication. However, due to unavoidable circumstance of change, whether from the forces of nature or manmade, the information is not guaranteed. Traveler Media is not responsible or liable in any way for any loss or damage incurred resulting from the information supplied in any and all forms of media or communications.

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PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP RT) MAUNA LANI BAY HOTEL & BUNGALOWS; (MID LT) BROOKE REHMANN; (BOTTOM LT/RT) KIRKAIDERPHOTO.COM

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PHOTO COURTESY: HAWAII FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL

EDITOR'S NOTE

“People who love to eat are always the best people.” –Julia Child My husband and I love good food. Whether French, Italian, Korean, Indian, Mediterranean, Mexican, Southern or Cajun— we obsess over yummy food. We talk about food and wine as much as we talk about our son and football. Most of our friends are just as passionate, and our conversations at our get-togethers are often food-centric. But cravable cuisine wasn’t always easily found on the Big Island. When we first moved to Waikoloa from Dallas, I missed having the availability and diversity of delicious dining options within minutes from our home as much as I missed our friends and family. The only restaurants with enjoyable food were at least a 20-minute drive away—and, I could only fantasize about decent takeout and delivery. Out of necessity, I actually learned to cook quite well after watching hundreds of countless hours of my favorite chefs on TV. Today, the Big Island’s food scene has progressed into an enviable destination of exceptional edible products like abalone, lobster and Kampachi that even excite some of the world’s best chefs to utilize on their menus (Seafood Bounty, p. 86). Award6

winning celebrity chefs also like to come here to showcase their deft skills using local ingredients to create memorable dishes as well as talk story with foodies from all over for an amazing gastronomic experience (Culinary Convergence, p. 72). There is something definitely happening on the Big Island, like unique, tasty beers made at craft breweries (Brewing Aloha, p. 82), and heritage pork raised in a picturesque pasture by an unlikely farmer (Pigs in Paradise, p. 90). Yes, we have come a very long way, and the future only looks brighter—and tastier—for this little piece of heaven in the middle of nowhere. Cheers to your tasty discovery of the Big Island! Many happy returns, Mun Sok Geiger munsok@traveler.media Editor-in-Chief BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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LOCAL VIBE BOXED LUNCH

The bento is a single-portion, takeaway meal that has origins in Japanese culture. When Japanese immigrants moved to Hawaiÿi to work on the sugar and pineapple plantations, they brought their tradition of packing bento lunches to be enjoyed during the midday break with them. A typical bento consists of a bed of steamed white rice topped with broiled fish, grilled meats, and pickled vegetables. Originating during the Kamakura Period (1185-1333), the bento was originally a term used for rice packed in small bags for travelers to consume during their journey. Over the years, the bento has evolved to become a very integral part of life in Japan as well as in Hawaiÿi. Today, many locals still pack a bento for lunch and bentos can also be found at most convenience stores and local eateries.

SKIMMING THE SURFACE

Skimboarding is a fun watersport to enjoy a delightful day at the beach that doesn’t require perfect waves to surf. Skimboarders begin by standing about 20-feet back from the shoreline, and then run toward a wave holding their skimboard. Once they hit the wet sand, the board is dropped and the skimboarder will jump onto the board and skim along the waves with the intention of making a smooth transition into the ocean. After banking off the incoming wave, the skimboarder will ride the wave back to shore and do it all over again. Maneuvers and tricks can be incorporated while skimming across the water’s surface, making for an enjoyable watersport for all ages and skill levels. It’s a bit tricky to get a hang of at the beginning and timing is important, especially if the board gets stuck on the wet sand and you go flying face first. Fractures and dislocations of the lower limbs are not uncommon so play safe. 8

LOCAL LINGO

Cruizin’, or cruisin’, is amongst one of the most popular, highly used slang heard frequently throughout Hawai‘i. And, no wonder—it’s one word that pretty much sums up the laidback vibe here in the islands. Taken from the word “cruising,” to cruise means to have no stress, no worries, and nothing to do, but hang out. When you are cruizin’ in the islands, you are as far from the day-to-day hectic lifestyle as you can get. You are without an agenda and free to live in the moment and just go with the flow— unplugged! While on vacation, kick up your feet and do as the locals—be cruizin’. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Front row seats available.

Four Seasons Resort Hualalai Reservations 808 325 8915 fourseasons.com/hualalai

LOCAL VIBE

CRUNCHY VS. SMOOTH When hiking, you may notice two very distinct types of terrain made of lava. ‘Aÿä is the name given to rough, crunchy broken lava by the ancient Hawaiians who most likely said just that, “ah-ah,” as they walked over the sharp rocks barefoo,t making travel difficult and slow. ‘Aÿä is basaltic lava made of busted lava blocks called clinker characterized by a jagged and abrasive surface. In contrast, pähoehoe is the smooth, ribbon-y type of lava that is unbroken. Both are found in abundance on the Big Island from Hawaiÿi Volcanoes National Park to the many hiking trails that lead to hidden beaches. You can also see both types of lava used in building traditional rock walls at homes, resorts and shopping centers throughout the island. 10

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LOCAL VIBE

STRIKING SWIMMER Bright and vibrant, the Achilles tang (Acanthurus achilles) adds a splash of color wherever it swims. This tropical marine fish is native to the Pacific Ocean and is black in color with dazzling orange, white, and blue streaks along its fins and tail. Reaching around ten inches in length in adulthood, the Achilles tang enjoys feeding on benthic algae, but will eat brine shrimp when in captivity. Although gorgeous to look at, Achilles tangs can be nervous swimmers with a tendency to â&#x20AC;&#x153;paceâ&#x20AC;? back and forth and enjoy unobstructed swimming spaces. The Achilles tang does best in turbulent waters with lots of surface movement, which translates to a higher saturation of oxygen in the water. 12

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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LOCAL VIBE

SEEING RED The brilliant red stem and lushly colored green fronds of the lipstick palm (Cyrtostachys renda) can add style and panache to your home garden and contribute a tropical flair to your lawnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s landscape. The lipstick palm, also called red sealing wax palm, due to its resemblance of the similar colored wax used to seal letters and envelopes close, is a native to Southeast Asia and parts of the Pacific. The intensely red-colored stem creates a stunningly exotic aesthetic and a vivid pop when added to a landscape. Needing moderate maintenance, this palm does best in Hawai`iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s environment and other tropical climates where it thrives off high humidity, ample rainfall, and rich soils. 16

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

“BEST SNORKEL CRUISE ON THE BIG ISLAND”

WEST HAWAII TODAY READER’S POLL

Fair Wind II and Hula Kai at historic Kealakekua Bay & site of the Captain Cook Monument Information & Reservations 808.345.6213 | www.fair-wind.com

LOCAL VIBE

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Favorite food: Has to be laulau. First, it’s like a gift from the ÿäina (land), wrapped in ti leaves. Then, you unwrap the present and the fragrant, delicious prize inside, regardless of the contents—fish, pork, squid—feeds your soul. Favorite drive: Kohala Mountain Road (HWY 250) heading toward Häwï around sunset. The glistening ocean, sunshine, sometimes rain, rainbows, fog, and the diversity of moku (district) Kohala remind me of why I love this island so. Favorite custom/tradition: Sending people home with leftovers. Doreen and I love to entertain and there’s always plenty of food, so sending guests home with something tasty (and easy) becomes an extension of the party. Favorite Hawaiian product: Must be Spam musubi. Salty, savory, portable…it even helps my golf game. I swear one musubi at the turn and I drop two strokes on the back 9. Favorite Hawaiian band/CD: Favorite performer, hands down is Willie K. The depth and range of his talent is inspirational, and he can rev up a crowd like no one else. My favorite CD at the moment is the soundtrack from The Descendants. It captures the mastery of Gabby Pahinui all the way to present-day Makana. Favorite place to catch the sunset: Has to be Copper Bar at Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. This location has been the spot for sunsets at Mauna Kea for 50 years with live hula and Hawaiian music, and now, a diverse menu of small plates to share, plus super innovative libations crafted by the mixologists. Favorite date place: Coast Grille at Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel. It starts with the setting and its sweeping ocean views, then add some scrumptious selections from Chef Peter Abarcar, Jr.’s locally sourced menu, or build your own creation at the poke bar, add a glass (or bottle) of your favorite vino, and voila, magic!

my local faves

SPAM MUSUBI 20

Lucky you live Hawai‘i because…Life is just better here. As I watch the news and the crazy presidential campaigns, I am reminded of how the world needs a healthy dose of aloha. Living here, doing business here, is different because people here treat each other with respect and work together to promote harmony and accountability. Imagine, a world living aloha.

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LOCAL VIBE

WHY DON'T YOU... EAT THE ISLAND.

There are amazing food products grown on the Big Island like Maine lobster, abalone, hearts of palm, nutmeg, grass-fed beef, and heritage pork just to name a few items that even impress worldly chefs. Look for them on menus no matter where you dine because even if you find them elsewhere, it’s never going to taste better. Attend one of the special food events like Chef Fest at Four Seasons Resort Hualälai or Hawaiÿi Food & Wine Festival’s Hot Lava, Hotter Cuisine at Hilton Waikoloa Village to experience local products by award-winning celebrity chefs sure to be a spectacular evening of excellent cuisine.

FAN UP.

LOOK FOR MYSTICAL MARVELS.

You are most likely unfamiliar with moonbows and green flashes—but, hopefully, you will experience one or both during your stay here. Moonbows, which are lunar rainbows, are a visual treat you won’t ever forget. Hawaiians named them änuenue kau pö, meaning night rainbow. Waimea is one of the few places on Earth to witness this phenomenon. It takes a pretty full moon and just the right amount of rainy mist falling opposite the moon to see the rare beauty. They are uncommon and magical! A green flash occurs when a green ray shoots up from the sunset point or when a green spot is visible for a brief second or two shortly after sunset. It’s an optical phenomenon that can be observed from any altitude as long as the view of the horizon is unobstructed and the air is clear. The green flash appears from the refraction of light (like a prism) in the atmosphere. Try to look for one on the next sunset if the horizon is clear. It happens in an instant so try not to blink, or you might miss it. 22

GET CULTURED.

The talented dancers at Häleo Lüÿau tell a beautiful story of the journey from Polynesia through music and dance in a gorgeous setting beneath the stars at a historic bay. Enjoy delicious lüÿau fare like kälua pork, ÿahi poke, lomi lomi salmon, purple potatoes and poi and learn about Hawaiian culture and history while being entertained at an award-winning lüÿau. Häleo Lüÿau is at Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay. For more information or tickets, call Island Breeze (808) 326-4969 or visit EventsByIslandBreeze.com. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP LT/RT) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM; (BOTTOM RT) ISLAND BREEZE

Just because you are on island time doesn’t mean you can’t faithfully root for your team. Hang out with other football fans with yummy food and craft beers and don’t miss a down—even if it’s 7am here! Tropics Ale House offers breakfast, drink and food specials as well as Bloody Mary and mimosas to keep up with your favorite football team in a fun, casual atmosphere. They have the NFL Sunday Ticket and 10 televisions and will gladly change the channel so you can continue to be the fanatic that you are. Tropics Ale House is in Waikoloa Resort (808) 886-4287.

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ALOHA

HAWAI‘I THE BIG ISLAND

nthusiasts from beachgoers, snorkelers, divers, hikers, golfers, big-game fishers, stargazers and nature lovers all can satisfy their cravings for the best of the best all on one Big Island. The Island of Hawai‘i is home to world-class golf, beaches, diving and stargazing sites. Two of the most common adjectives to describe the Island of Adventure are contrast and diversity. You can ski the snow-capped Mauna Kea, trek across a desolate desert, and walk through a verdant tropical rainforest all in one day. Kïlauea, one of the planet’s most active and most visited volcanoes, brings both destruction and creation. Eleven out of the thirteen distinct climate zones exist here from near desert to sub-arctic tundra. The Big Island is home to the world’s largest volcano—Mauna Loa, the most active volcano—Kïlauea, and according to the Guinness Book of Records, the tallest mountain—Mauna Kea when measured from its base on the ocean floor to its highest peak.

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The Island of Hawai‘i was born from five separate shield volcanoes, from oldest to youngest, Kohala (extinct), Mauna Kea (dormant), Hualälai (dormant), Mauna Loa (active, last erupted 1984) and Kïlauea (very active). Kïlauea means “spewing” or “much spreading” and it lives up to its name. The volcano has been erupting non-stop since January 3, 1983 and has added more than 543 acres of land. The youngest Hawaiian volcano is Lö‘ihi, an active submerged volcano that lies 3,200 feet below sea level, 18 miles southeast of Hawai‘i Island and has been erupting since 1996. With continued volcanic activity, it is believed that Lö‘ihi will eventually breach sea level and later attach at the surface onto Kïlauea. Presently, this event is predicted to happen about 100,000 years in the future. The Big Island has 266 miles of breathtaking coastline with some of the most beautiful, unique beaches found anywhere. You will find yourself enjoying the best of water recreation on sands from white to black, and gold to green. Hawai‘i Island has a landmass of approximately 4,028 square miles and represents 62 percent of the total land area of the Hawaiian Islands. Because it is nearly twice the size of all the other Hawaiian Islands combined, and to avoid confusion of the state’s name, Hawai‘i Island is often referred to as the Big Island. It is said that King Kamehameha the Great named the unified islands after his birthplace, the island of Hawai‘i. Not only is the land amazingly diverse, so are its residents. According to the 2000 U.S. Census Bureau, Hawai‘i County is the most ethnically diverse county in the United States with more than 28 percent of its residents claiming two or more races in their heritage. You will find the evidence of various influences from Asia to Europe most apparent in the delicious island cuisine. Blending favorite ingredients brought by multiple ethnic immigrants, modern

Our Bees Need to Fly 48,000 Miles to Produce One Pound of Raw Organic Hawaiian Honey. No matter how many miles you’ve flown to reach the Big Island, you’ll never forget your visit to Big Island Bees. Experience one of the world’s leading honey farms. Visit an open beehive where you’ll have a box seat on beekeeping, in a safe and secure screened area. Take a tour of our museum. Discover the history of beekeeping and glimpse into the hidden world of bees. Enjoy free samples of the raw,

organic single-floral honeys that are enjoyed around the world. When you come visit us here in Captain Cook, make a day of it. Snorkel at Two Step. Explore nearby Kealakekua Bay, the ancient Hiki’au Heiau Temple, and Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park. Come spend some time with us in this hidden corner of Hawaii. 120 million of our bees look forward to seeing you.

Reservations: 808.328.1315 or B I g I S l a N D BE ES. C OM THE BIg ISlaND BEE COMPaNy Raw & Organic Hawaiian Honey 82-1140 Meli Rd Captain Cook, HI 96704

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HAWAI‘I ISLAND HAS A LANDMASS OF APPROXIMATELY 4,028 SQUARE MILES AND REPRESENTS 62 PERCENT OF THE TOTAL LAND AREA OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS.

Hawaiian cuisine is truly a fusion of many favorites from Polynesia, Japan, Korea, Portugal, China, Philippines and America. Try some local favorites such as plate lunch, loco moco, ‘ahi poke, galbi and, of course, kälua pig. Hawai‘i Island is also home for diversified agriculture worth over $300 million annually, including a beef industry that generates revenues of nearly $20 million, producing over five million pounds of beef annually on approximately 650,000 acres of grass. It’s probably difficult for some people to fathom that a magnificent tropical paradise is home for paniolo (cowboys), ranches and rodeos. Parker Ranch is one of the largest and oldest privately owned ranches in the United States and owns about 175,000 acres on the Big Island. Other agriculture includes macadamia nuts, papaya, avocados, tropical and temperate vegetables, Kona coffee, and flowers. Because of Hawai‘i Island’s reputation of growing copious beautiful orchids, it has earned the nickname “the Orchid Isle.”

Science and technology have also found a place on the Big Island. There are 13 telescopes including four of the biggest and most advanced on top of Mauna Kea, the world’s premier location for observing the sky with exceptionally clear images and clear nights for stargazing. The Natural Energy Lab of Hawai‘i (NELHA) operates an innovative ocean science and technology park where they are exploring the deep sea for discovery of natural organisms that can be used as drugs and cures for the improvement of human health. NELHA has already completed numerous groundbreaking projects creating major commercial development such as turning desalinated deep seawater into ultra-pure bottled drinking water. Along with the beauty of the land, rich traditions, history and culture are seen throughout the island. The world famous spirit of Aloha is the central beauty that engulfs the island welcoming visitors with warm smiles. So after you explore the very diverse, very awe-inspiring Big Island, take home and share the spirit of Aloha.

Weddings, Vow Renewals and Vacation Planning 808 238 0417 | www.bigislandvacationservices.com 28

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Discover Hawaii with Safari Helicopters The People'sChoice Since 1987 Naval Reserves as a Commander (0-5). Preston Myers, owner/pilot of Safari Helicopters, has radically changed the helicopter industry throughout the After active duty with the US Navy, Myers returned to State of Hawaii. Safari was the first company in the State Southeast Asia as a civilian and flew for the infamous of Hawaii to fly air tours in the comfort of an “Air America” flying throughout Thailand, Laos, air-conditioned ASTAR 350 B aircraft and the first to offer Cambodia, and South Vietnam on quasi-military secret a two-way communication system between passengers and missions. He continued his adventures by relocating pilot. They were also the first company to install and operate to Singapore, the international trading capital of the an FAA approved multiple video camera system with high world. He flew on oil exploration projects throughout quality digital cameras to record the passengers’ actual tour, the Indonesian Archipelago of Borneo, Sumatra, capturing the music, and live narration. Along with Java, Celebes, and Irian Jaya (Dutch New Guinea) introducing new and innovative ways to improve the conducting extensive external loading operations entire helicopter tour experience, Safari was also the moving oil drilling rigs piece by piece to remote site first operator in the State to fly the higher performance locations. ASTAR 350 B2 helicopters introduced in 1991. Preston maintained his flying proficiency with the Naval Reserves as Nowadays, Safari flys the Executive Officer for a combat search and rescue squadron based at NAS North Island, flying the H-3A helicopter. It didn’t Super ASTAR 350 B2-7 which take him long to realize he was not meant for a three-piece features a left side pilot seat configuration suit or freeway traffic jams and moved his family to Hawaii. allowing for a better view when flying clockwise around the island, higher performance, more If you are interested in flight-seeing Kauai with a small, reliability, and more passenger leg room… family-owned company that offers you professional and another ‘first’. These aircrafts are now equipped caring service, then fly with Preston Myers or one of his with “Mega” windows offering almost 40% highly qualified pilots. Myers is truly concerned about his increased visibility. Safari was also the first to passengers’ safety and believes in the axiom, “There are old Family owned and operated initiate the production of the “Safari Skylight” pilots and there are bold pilots, but there are no old bold ceiling windows to open up the skies above for an From our family to yours…Escape your pilots.” awesome view of Mt. Waialeale Crater. reality and join ours as we take you on a Safari Helicopter Tours is a Certified Part 135 air carrier, tour into the heart of the Garden Island. Preston Myers, one of the island’s most Part 133 External-load Operator, and is experienced pilots with more than 40 years in also authorized under Part 137. Safari aviation, started flying at Mt. San Antonio College near Pomona, Helicopters not only has sightseeing tour experience California prior to the Vietnam conflict. He then graduated with a degree but has conducted contracts with the US Navy and in aviation before entering the U.S. Navy. Myers recently retired from the was DOD AMC authorized, Inter-Agency qualified to fly US Government personnel with several years experience fire-fighting on the US Mainland. Overall, no other company in Hawaii has this kind of experience. Tours vary depending on weather, 48 hr. cancellation, Weight restrictions apply. Call 808-246-0136 or toll-free 808-326-3356 for more information. Tours are also available on the Big Island in Hilo at 808-969-1259. Email: info@safarihelicopters.com, Web: www.safarihelicopters.com

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REEF LIFE MATTERS WHY WE NEED HEALTHY CORAL

WORDS ANDREW WALSH

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Do coral reefs matter? Of course they do—right? Corals are fun factories of fish, turtles, and undiscovered adventures just waiting for the intrepid ocean lover: an underwater oasis of vibrant creatures dancing and darting across imaginary seascapes merely feet below your eyes. All manner of hidden life seems to saturate their every pore with movement and mayhem. They exist in an otherworldly realm removed from the modern world of human happenings. Or so it would seem. Hidden below the mighty Pacific, corals will always seem out of reach from us. After all, the ocean is a mysterious, dangerous, and unpredictable environment. So while we may visit corals from time to time, they mostly exist in a place detached from our physical world and from our psyche. Every so often we may encounter them while on vacation on a snorkel cruise, or in a travel magazine or website beckoning you to some tropical island paradise. But mostly we give these tiny ocean dwellers precious little thought, as corals are just some creature that lives out in the ocean. But here in Hawaiÿi, corals are closely connected with the kamaÿäina (residents) and the ÿäina (land). The unique biogeography of the Hawaiian Islands presents its residents an opportunity to experience an inviolable truth of human existence—that corals and all natural resources sustain our individual lives. Corals are not just physically, but spiritually connected to the islands and to the people who call these islands home, and that connection extends to those only visiting. Just as the mana (spiritual power) infused in the majestic volcanoes anchors these islands to the earth and provides us all with a home and safe footing, corals are the barriers and bridge between the enormous power and potential of the ocean. Whether we realize it or not, all of our lives, from the very first breath we took, to the very next breath we will take, depend upon the ocean. Yet the story of corals goes even deeper. So deep, in fact, their story permeates the very fabric of each and every one of our daily lives. Corals are one of the longest-lived organisms on Earth. Some corals are known to be up to 4,000 years old (individuals, not the species). The largest living organism on Earth is thought to be the Great Barrier Reef—an underwater dreamscape laid down by reef building coral polyps over a thousand miles along Australia’s eastern shore—truly one of the great natural wonders of the world. Financially, corals also seem skilled at building monetary wealth. They provide ecosystem services to the economy and livelihoods of our societies valued at US $30 billion a year. They protect shorelines from the devastating effects of erosion and storm damage. And millions of people rely directly upon them for food, jobs, tourism, recreation, and even emerging pharmaceuticals for cancer, arthritis, asthma, ulcers, human bacterial infections, heart disease, and viruses. It makes you wonder, how could these tiny creatures be so precious and so important to our very existence, and yet most of us know little about the crucial role they play in our lives? myhawaiitraveler.com

overachievers. So the placement of our feet, boat anchors, or harbors is critical to saving coral reefs. And even when we manage to not step on the corals, what we put on our bodies can have just as deadly an effect. Most popular sunscreens contain a chemical called oxybenzone that is toxic to corals. Imagine a beautiful coral reef nestled in a watery lagoon equivalent in volume to roughly six Olympic-size swimming pools; all it takes is one drop of seawater full of oxybenzone from sunscreen to be harmful. However, maybe people who don’t go near the ocean believe that corals don’t affect them and vice-versa—“I won’t step on corals as I never go in the water.” Although that is partially true, the full reality is that corals benefit that individual greatly and they do “step” on corals as an ongoing participant in the destructive march of energy use, waste, and development. And judging by society’s lack of prioritization to save coral reefs and other natural resources, most people probably don’t recognize the extent to which many of our daily actions, even if we never go in or near the ocean, are dismantling the foundations of the natural world upon which our modern societies are built and maintained. It turns out we really need corals—and now, they really need us. Undoubtedly there exists a discouraging disconnect. It is well known in the science community that corals are very sensitive to environmental conditions. When the waters become too hot, too cold, murky from sediments, too polluted, or too acidic from the tons of carbon absorbed into the oceans, corals eject their symbiotic zooxanthellae and eventually die. The tiny zooxanthellae plants provide the coral polyps with food, so once they leave, it’s game over. All that remains is the hard white structure of the reef where the little polyps once lived, hence the name “coral bleaching.” All of the life, jobs, tourism, species, and benefits disappear once the corals can no longer tolerate the changing ocean conditions. These bleaching events have become common in recent times. Major bleaching events in Hawaiÿi and around the world have scientists struggling to preserve the remaining coral reefs and prevent future losses. The situation is so dire that if current trends continue we could be looking at the extinction of world corals by just after mid-century (2050). It’s hard to imagine an empty, colorless ocean where underwater cities of life once flourished. Sea turtles, reef fish, octopus, and countless marine creatures paint the sandy bottoms of these tropical waters with an abundance of life and resources, all thanks to corals. In fact, even the sandy beaches could disappear without corals, as the reefs and the creatures that live on them create and maintain the beaches. Yet, we are watching it all go extinct, even as we snorkel, dive, and fish the corals’ bounty. Coral reefs will soon be bleached out of existence unless we all act now to save this resource that we love, but more importantly depend upon. And here is the good news: It’s not very hard to make some simple changes in our own lives to make this all happen. We just need to know what it is we are doing that is hurting the corals. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURETSY: (PREVIOUS SPREAD) MARTY WAKAT

Perhaps it’s thought that only “marine” creatures rely upon corals, not something the average person likely worries about too much. Fair enough I guess, it’s hard enough to just get by without worrying about corals. But corals provide a home and food web for a huge number of other creatures that most people do care about. In fact, though they occupy less than one percent of the marine environment, they are home to 25-35% of all marine species. Hundreds of thousands, to possibly millions, of creatures live on coral reefs. Many of these creatures that corals sustain help to support people through food security, trade, business, recreation, life-saving drugs, and even economic and political stability. There are also a surprising number of indirect ways that many of the creatures found only on coral reefs directly affect our lives. For example, much of what scientists would learn about human developmental biology in the 19th century came through studying the transparent embryos and very similar genomes of sea urchins—which need corals to survive. Of course, when all you are trying to do is find your footing among the waves, coral health usually isn’t the first thing that springs to mind. Just finding a rock to stand on is often the priority. But just the same, do try and be careful because that rock might just be a coral reef and the placement of your feet might just be the difference between life and death for that coral. Corals are often mistaken for hard rocky surfaces since most of their structure is just that, hard limestone. However, the outer layer of the reef, that part your foot is standing on, is a living coral organism composed of thousands of tiny coral polyps. This thin outside layer of interconnected little animals (tiny stationary jellyfish called coral polyps), whose tissues are home to colorful photosynthetic zooxanthellae (microscopic plants that turn sunlight into food), grow on top of a calcium carbonate exoskeleton (the hard underneath of the reef). Each step can kill these unassuming little

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PHOTO COURTESY: ANDREW WALSH; (OPPOSITE) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM

The sobering reality is that many of our daily actions—leaving the light in the kitchen on too long, letting the car idle in traffic, turning up the heat on a brisk day, or scarfing down a juicy hamburger—are contributing to the problem. And it’s not so much that we need to stop doing all of this, we just need to be a little less wasteful and recognize that these actions are fueled by an out-dated energy source. We live on borrowed sunlight—in the form of massive reserves of carbon stored underground through the day-in and day-out decay of sunlight absorbing plants over hundreds of millions of years—better known as fossil fuels. In a few short centuries, we have released this sleeping geochemical dragon and rained havoc upon our climate and atmospheric and oceanic chemistry. Imagine the energetic intensity of the sun being partially stored every day for hundreds of millions of years and then releasing that energy into the atmosphere all at once. As science has shown, it’s getting hot quick and all the carbon has to end up somewhere. Specifically, the carbon-based fossil fuel consumption lifestyle releases massive amounts of carbon into the atmosphere, while heating it up. Much of this carbon is being absorbed by the world’s largest carbon sink and climate stabilizer—the ocean. But as the ocean absorbs carbon, it acidifies (pH goes down) and heats up from the warmer atmosphere, the result being a death sentence for corals (and not a field day if you live at sea level). For the daily consumer, it is a passive act of global species extinction occurring throughout the world. The biogeochemistry of our world has shifted so much that there is an upcoming ruling by the International Union of Geological Sciences (IUGS) to decide if we are moving into a new epoch. This international body, which defines Earth’s time scale based on extraordinary delineations in the rock strata such as paleontological myhawaiitraveler.com

mass extinctions, may be declaring a new geologic era following the industrial revolution: the Anthropocene Era—anthropo, for “man,” and cene, for “new.” Their ruling will be based on the massive extinctions and biogeochemical changes indelibly left by modern humans, comparable to other cataclysmic events, such as the dinosaurs’ extinction at the KT boundary. Whoa! It seems worth considering why this disconnect exists in our societies. It is irrefutable that we need coral reefs, need natural resources, and have the best scientists in the world pleading that fossil fuels are killing our world, polluting our lungs, poisoning our children, and destroying the very fabric of the air and water we need to survive. Yet, the tools for our liberation are readily at hand in the form of sustainable, safer, healthier, and politically and economically more stable renewable energy resources. Is it not time we slay this selfinflicted dragon? Corals are the proverbial canary in the coal mine, if that canary lived underwater and provided a job, a tasty plate of grouper, and medicine if we became ill. How can we allow corals to “go the way of the dodo” in a generation that put scientists in outer space? These are the questions future generations will ask as they struggle to thrive in a deteriorating world of our making. So if coral reefs matter, even if presently our collective actions say, no, they don’t—can we do something about it? Since the obvious answer is yes, then we must seriously begin to support sustainable practices and energy sources through lifestyle, voting, educational, and recreational habits in the hopes of reclaiming and repairing our sources of food, business, health, and recreation that creatures such as corals so readily provide. At least for a little longer. 35

Epic Snorkeling Spots

Across the Big Island there are many wonderful places to appreciate all the alluring beauty that live in our coral reefs. For some spectacular inspiration and enjoyment, take a swim at any of these incredible reefs favored by locals as top snorkeling spots that aren’t difficult to reach. You are likely to see an abundance of reef life all around you like honu (green sea turtles), graceful manta rays, colorful fish and sea urchins that will leave you entranced beyond your visit. Hāpuna Beach (north end): Snorkel out from the small lagoon around the point. A vibrant reef community exists in one of the most easily accessible locations. Kauna‘oa Beach at Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (south end): Snorkel off the end of the beach into the large reef area starting just as the water gets too deep to stand and extending out around the point. Turtles are very common here. Puakō at Paniau Bay (end of the road): Use the small fishbowl shaped inlet to enter the water. The reef extends well offshore until it drops off with a beautiful wall and fascinating reef formations. Keep away from the breakers at the north and south end of the bay. Puakō (first public access path after the church and boat ramp road): This one is a little harder to find, but worth the effort. It includes a large accessible beach area with a series of shallow ponds, protected reef areas, and deeper reefs with excellent formations farther offshore. If you go farther out, make sure the water isn’t rough. ‘Anaeho‘omalu Beach (known locally as A-Bay in the Waikoloa Beach Resort area): This beautiful sandy beach in front of the Marriott Resort has a large area of patch reefs. Turtles are almost guaranteed and manta rays frequent the bay. The best place to snorkel is right off the beach. Stay on the north end of the bay as most of the corals are there and don’t be afraid to go out a little further from the beach if conditions allow— just make sure to keep an eye on small boat traffic. Kahalu‘u Bay (off Ali‘i Drive): This bay experiences a large amount of snorkelers every day as it has a wonderful shallow reef protected from the open ocean and a large sandy beach. Turtles abound here and a program called Reef Teach usually has volunteers and tents set up to educate curious visitors about the bay and its unique coral community. For more snorkeling spots, read the beach section towards the back of this issue. For equipment rentals, go to Snorkel Bob’s in Kailua-Kona on Aliÿi Drive or The Shops at Mauna Lani on the Kohala Coast. If you would like to take a snorkel cruise to encounter marine life safely and comfortably with all the equipment and nourishment you need to enjoy your ocean adventure, call Mauna Lani Sea Adventures (808) 885-7883, Body Glove Cruises (888) 980-7513, or Fair Wind (808) 345-6213.

Ocean Safety

The Pacific Ocean is awe-inspiring and captivating. And while it may be inviting you to swim and frolic in the water, it can also be a deceptively powerful and sometimes hazardous force of Mother Nature. Be fully aware of the risks involved and check in with the lifeguard if present or knowledgeable locals before entering the water. Be mindful of any warning signage or flags that might be advising people of dangerous conditions, and educate yourself of potential hazards like walking on wet rocks. It’s always a good idea to swim with a buddy; also, don’t turn your back on the ocean. And, remember that the faster the water is flowing and the higher the surf, the stronger the currents. If you get caught in a rip current, which can quickly pull even the strongest swimmer out to sea, stay calm, do not panic, go with the flow of the current, then swim parallel to shore and wave your hands for assistance. Always take 20 minutes to observe the ocean before entering and get an accurate ocean conditions report before going to an unfamiliar beach. If you don’t see anyone else in the water, there’s probably a good reason. When in doubt, don’t go out!

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DESTINATIONS

Sunny Kailua-Kona is a busy seaside village consisting of many historic sites tucked among the open-air shops and oceanfront restaurants along the banyan-shaded Ali‘i Drive. Kailua was once established as the capital of the newly unified Kingdom of Hawai‘i by King Kamehameha I. Later the capital was moved to Lahaina then to Honolulu. Kona is home to the world-renowned Ironman Triathlon and big game fishing. Next to the active Kailua Pier with cruise ships, deep-sea fishing charters, sunset cruises and glass bottom tours, King Kamehameha I maintained his royal residence at Kamakahonu until his death in 1819. Ahu‘ena Heiau is a thatched shrine guarded by sacred wooden images restored by King Kamehameha the Great in 1812 to honor the god Lono. Significant history was made on the royal compounds when Liholiho, who became King Kamehameha II, dined with the women breaking one of the most rigorous kapu. This bold act brought on the abandonment of the ancient kapu system and opened the door to Christianity. Hawai‘i’s oldest Christian church was originally a thatch hut built in 1820 when the missionaries arrived aboard the Thaddeus traveling over 18,000 miles from Boston. Moku‘aikana Church was rebuilt in 1837 from an abandoned heiau made of lava and crushed coral. Across the street is Hulihe‘e Palace, which once served as a vacation residence for Hawaiian royalty. Today it houses a collection of beautiful furniture and rare collections. Traveling south on Ali‘i Drive, you will come upon some beautiful beaches to swim, snorkel and bask in the sunshine. Head up to Hölualoa, a quaint little town surrounded by lush tropical foliage, and visit the art galleries, antique stores and charming boutiques. Just south of Kailua lies Keauhou, the birthplace of King Kamehameha III and home to important historical sites. Kuamo’s Battle Burial Grounds dates back to 1819 where an estimated 300 Hawaiians were killed and Ku‘emanu 38

Heiau is an ancient surfing temple next to St. Peter’s Catholic Church. Kealakekua Bay, a marine reserve, offers outstanding snorkeling with a wide variety of colorful fish and spinner dolphins plaingy close to shore. Captain Cook’s Monument rises across the bay where he was killed in 1779. Pu‘uhonua O Hönaunau, Place of Refuge, with its heiau and wooden images of Native Hawaiian gods makes this sacred spot a must-see. Beautiful landscapes captivate you in south Kona with splendid coastlines that hug the highway and charming little towns giving you glimpses of what life was like in Old Hawai‘i. Cultivated on the slopes of Hualälai and Mauna Loa, the worldfamous Kona coffee with its deliciously rich flavor, thrives in their perfect climate. If you are seeking seclusion or tranquility, there is plenty just south of the Kona Coast in Kä Lae, the southernmost point of the U.S. This is where the first Polynesians were thought to have landed around 400 A.D. Be inspired as Mark Twain was by the raw beauty of the Ka‘ü district with its breathtaking views of the coastline and catch an unforgettable sunset on one of the unique, beautiful black or green sand beaches. Mark Twain wrote about his journey through Ka‘ü as, “Portions of that little journey bloomed with beauty. Occasionally we entered small basins walled in with low cliffs, carpeted with greenest grass, and studded with shrubs and small trees whose foliage shone with an emerald brilliancy. One species, called the mamona [mamani], with its bright color, its delicate locust leaf, so free from decay or blemish of any kind, and its graceful shape, chained the eye with a sort of fascination. The rich verdant hue of these fairy parks was relieved and varied by the splendid carmine tassels of the ‘ö‘hia tree. Nothing was lacking but the fairies themselves.” BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY; (LEFT/RIGHT) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM

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Ka‘ūpūlehu THE HISTORY AND HIDDEN SECRETS WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

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Not too long ago, I found myself standing along the shoreline in Kalaemanö (the shark point), the coastal region of North Kona, mining for salt. Located within the ahupua‘a, or wedge-shaped division of land that goes from the sea to the mountain, of Kaÿüpühlehu, this historic sliver of land hides many secrets from those just passing through. Just behind us stood Hualälai, the striking volcano that first greets many visitors to the leeward side of the Big Island, looming peacefully, quietly guarding her shores. Yet, only two hundred years ago, this seemingly docile mountain reawakened, scarring the landscape with fresh new lava flows that glided down its slopes. Kaÿüpühlehu, the name of the ahupua‘a and the crater that caused this particular lava flow, is an area steeped in history waiting to be discovered by modern day explorers. On this particular excursion, I was with a small group of people escorted by Auntie Leina‘ala Keakealani Lightner, also known as “Auntie Lei,” as we mined the pähoehoe lava at low tide for salt. It was here that I started to really look deeply at the landscape I had encountered so many times before—how many times had I passed this shoreline, never knowing this historically prolific region was so important to ancient Hawaiians? How many times had I driven past the lava flow that slithered its way down the mountain, taking with it an ancient village I had never known existed? I began to wonder what other secrets this corner of the Big Island held, only to discover the truly significant historical importance this entire region had on not only this island, but the entire Hawaiian Islands as well. Recently, I took a tour with Hawaii Forest & Trail to the sacred area on the slopes of Hualälai, 6,000-feet above sea level. These lands are myhawaiitraveler.com

closed to the public, but Hawaii Forest & Trail is the only outfitter to be granted access to this land. With this access comes the responsibility to be careful stewards of this important area, and they take that responsibility seriously. This land is owned by the Bishop Estate and is kept in trust for future generations of Native Hawaiians. As you ascend the mountain, you travel through a variety of climate zones from dry, arid deserts at sea level, to lush tropical rain forests, to misty shrouded cloud forests. Here, right above this wao ‘uhane (realm of the spirits), lies the Kaÿüpühlehu Crater, home of the 1800 lava flow that now covers a large part of the North Kona District. Visitors staying north of the Keähole Airport are greeted by this lava flow as they pass the entrance to the Hualälai Resort area. There, looking in either direction, lava greets the passerbys, a clear reminder of how alive this mountain still is, and the influence these volcanoes have on the lives of the people who historically and presently call this location home. Once we reached the Kaÿüpühlehu Crater, our group stood at the rim and admired Madame Pele’s handiwork. Legend has it that Madame Pele, the goddess of fire, was walking through the region, disguised as an old woman. When she came upon two sisters roasting ÿulu (breadfruit), her request for the starchy fruit was only granted by one of the sisters. In an offering of thanks to the sister who helped her, Pele instructed her to place lepa (tapa cloth on end of a stick) at the corners of her house. That evening, when the volcano erupted, only the sister who helped Pele’s house was spared from the destruction. It is suggested that this story represents how the region got its name: pülehu means to roast, and ÿulu means breadfruit, resulting in the name that 41

some believe was shortened from Kaÿulupülehu to its present name. As we descended the sacred area of the upper reaches of Hualälai into the cloud forest, the tour makes it way to another special part of the region, the Kona Coffee Belt. Stopping at Mountain Thunder Coffee Plantation, guests witness the entire bean to cup process of growing coffee. The tour also discussed what makes Kona coffee so unique, with its rich, volcanic soil, warm sunny mornings and wet, cloudy afternoons. At the end, visitors get an opportunity to taste this one-of-a-kind product at its source. Back in the early 1800s when Hualälai, with the help of Madame Pele, was redesigning the North Kona landscape, King Kamehameha the Great, the chief who ultimately united all of the Hawaiian Islands under one crown, was consolidating his power. One skirmish that happened off Kaÿüpühlehu’s shores inadvertently helped Kamehameha in his quest to conquer all of the islands. When an American fur trader by the name of Simon Metcalfe incited violence against the local population in Kaÿüpühlehu, as well as on Maui, the local chief Kameÿeiamoku pledged to seek revenge against the next vessel who arrived on his shores. Ironically, that next vessel was the Fair American, a small schooner helmed by Simon Metcalfe's son, Thomas. There, Kameÿeiamoku handed Metcalfe’s son his ultimate fate, but spared one member of his five-man crew. The Fair American carried with it a cannon and other Western-style weapons that ultimately fell into the hands of Kamehameha the Great, who would use these weapons in his quest to become the sole ruler of the Hawaiian Islands. Today, this area hosts the Hualälai Resort, which includes the singular Four Seasons Resort, two outstanding golf courses, fantastic restaurants, and lovely beaches. Yet, there are people who still work to remember the ways of old here, helping those who take the time to look beyond the obvious to dig into this region’s rich history. By connecting the past with the present, Kaÿüpühlehu is further appreciated for the remarkable place that it once was and continues to be. To read more about the history of this area, the book “In the Lee of Hualalai—Historic Kaÿüpülehu” by Jocelyn Fujii provides a wonderful collection of interesting history and beatufiul images of this region. To visit the crater and the upper slopes of Hualälai, call Hawaii Forest & Trail at (808)331-3635 or visit their website at hawaii-forest.com. 42

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Hildgund Jewelers, founded in 1873, is the ultimate in fine jewelry for both men and women. Every custom designed piece is unique and elegant. Hildgund boasts a wide array of precious and semiprecious colored gems, fine jade and pearls, plus an exceptional selection of internally flawless colored diamonds in the state. Customers worldwide return to Hildgund knowing that they have found one of the finest jewelry boutiques anywhere in the world. “Flawless since 1873”, Visit their Big Island locations at Four Seasons Resort Hualālai, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, or Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows. Online at hildgund.com or call (800) 636-3306.

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pieces of paradise Kimberly McDonald One of a Kind Triple Water Opal Slice Cuff with Signature KMD Irregular Diamond Bezel set in 18K Rose Gold, ($67,825). Available at Seaside Luxe in Hualālai Resort.

Kimberly McDonald One of a Kind Boulder Opal Earrings with Diamond and Emerald Bezels set in 18K Yellow and 18K White Gold with Black Rhodium, ($29,600). Available at Seaside Luxe in Hualālai Resort.

“Kalapana Kai” Glass sculpture of cresting wave by Hawai‘i craftsman Daniel Moe (Various prices). Available at Martin & MacArthur in the Kings' Shops at Waikoloa Beach Resort.

Precision 21 jewel movement. Sapphire crystal. Gold or silver faces. Fully adjustable band, ($1950). Available at Martin & MacArthur in Kings' Shops at Waikoloa Beach Resort.

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ISLAND STYLE INDICH COLLECTION FINE ORIENTAL CARPETS & HAWAIIAN RUGS Indich Collection offers unique rug designs, flavored with the richness and casual elegance of the islands. Using the finest natural fibers and knowing that quality is too important to compromise, Indich Collection has created one of the most artful collections of handwoven rugs available anywhere. With the largest inventory in the Pacific and direct import Custom Design Program, you’ll find an unlimited choice of rug designs, sizes, colors and quality.. Visit our Kona Showroom…open everyday or by appointment! Add Aloha to your home. Indich Collection Showrooms: Kona Industrial Park (808) 3296500, on Oahu (808) 524-7769, on Maui (808) 877-7200 or visit hawaiianrugs.com. HILDGUND JEWELERS Founded in 1873, Hildgund is the ultimate in fine custom designs and handcrafted jewelry. Every piece unique by its elegance, every piece one of a kind. A wide selection of precious and semi-precious colored stones plus many varieties of fine jade. The almost unlimited choice of

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their diamond collection is only of the highest quality. Customers worldwide have returned to a Hildgund location time and again, convinced that they have found one of the finest jewelry boutiques anywhere. On the Big Island we are located in the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai (808) 325-0606, Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows (808) 885-6617 and Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (808) 882-1861. Visit hildgund.com for store locations on Maui and Oahu. KINGS’ SHOPS The Big Island’s most exciting collection of shopping, dining and services can be found at Kings’ Shops. Visitors and residents enjoy onestop shopping that includes everything from high-end boutiques and one-of-a-kind jewelry to art galleries and activity centers to designer wear and spectacular gifts. Also home to an array of dining options, from award-winning Pacific Rim cuisine to on-the-go snacks. Located in the Waikoloa Beach Resort. Open daily from 9:30am to 9:30pm. For more information, call (808) 8868811 or kingsshops.com.

MARTIN & MACARTHUR Martin & MacArthur features the finest home furnishings and personal accessories made with Koa, the beautiful wood grown only in Hawaii. Come see our elegant Koa wood watches, Koa Eternity Rings, Koa iPhone and iPad covers, and Koa sunglasses. We have been making fine Koa furniture for over 50 years. We feature the widest selection of Koa boxes, bowls, model canoes, Hawaiian feather lei and ancient Hawaiian weapons made by over 200 local Hawaii craftsmen. Located at the Kings’ Shops. Call (808) 845-6688 or visit martinandmacarthur. com. PERSIMMON Before you go anywhere else to shop for the trendiest clothes or gifts made in Hawai‘i, you must go to Persimmon. Persimmon offers the latest in fashion with brands like Wildfox, Saint Grace, Sundry, Seven Jeans, Goddis, Ella Moss, Free People, Maui Mari Jewelry, Hard Tail, Michael Stars, Young Fabulous & Broke, and more. This charming boutique is a local favorite for its wide selection of great gifts including,

Hildgund Jewelers, Founded in 1873, maintains a vast selection of one-of-a-kind jewelry and designs for men and women, at any one of their six locations in Hawai’i. For the man who has everything, William Henry designs creates a range of tools so perfectly conceived and executed that they transcend superlative function to become superlative art. The typical knife takes more than eight months from conception to completion. The “Papakolea” Series is a Hildgund exclusive limited edition knife featuring Peridot and Koa wood named after the green sand beach in Hawaii. www.hildgund.com (see inside front cover for Locations).

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Queens’ MarketPlace COMING SOON Waikoloa Luxury Cinema

candles, journals, paper products, jewelry, shoes and even must-have body care products. Persimmon receives new merchandise every two weeks to keep you dressed in the latest styles. Persimmon offers personalized service with a warm smile. Be envied. Shop Persimmon. You will be glad you did. Open daily. Located in the Queens’ MarketPlace in Waikoloa Resort. Call (808) 886-0303 or persimmonboutique.com. QUEENS’ MARKETPLACE In addition to shopping, enjoy Hawaiian cultural performances at the Coronation Pavilion, weekly cultural offerings with our kupuna, and movies under the stars every Friday. You’re meant to enjoy this tropical marketplace with pools of lily pads and open spaces between shops offering fashionable apparel, jewelry, art and fun gifts. Located at Waikoloa Beach Resort, open daily 9:30am – 9:30pm. Call (808) 886-8822 or visit QueensMarketPlace.net. SEASIDE LUXE The true definition of resort luxury can be found directly below the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai’s hotel lobby, inside Seaside Luxe Boutique. Here you will find the world’s most premier fashion lines including the precious gems of Irene Neuwirth, a well known visual artist and one of the leading jewelry designers in the U.S. Her unique pieces are inspired by nature and her free spirit. Open daily 8:00am – 7:00pm. For more information, please call (808) 325-4765. REAL ESTATE BROOKFIELD HOMES Located on the Kohala Coast, KaMilo in Mauna Lani Resort beckons to those who seek unparalleled luxury, spectacular indoor/outdoor living and limitless opportunities to explore the beautiful surroundings. Brookfield’s newest oceanfront community, Holua Kai in Keauhou, offers panoramic oceanfront views and nothing short of resort luxury! Holua Kai at Keauhou will offer an exclusive, gated collection of 40 oceanfront new homes. Much like the kama‘aina homes of the past, Holua Kai’s plantationstyle homes have been specifically designed to connect indoor and outdoor spaces by virtue of large, open floor plans that maximize natural ventilation and lighting. To experience resort living at its finest, call us today or visit brookfieldhawaii.com. myhawaiitraveler.com

DINING Charley’s Thai Cuisine Daylight Mind Café & Restaurant Romano’s Macaroni Grill Sansei Seafood, Steak & Sushi Bar FASHION Blue Ginger Family Crocs Kona Surf N’ Sandals Local Motion Mahina Malibu Shirts PacSun Persimmon Quiksilver Reyn’s Volcom FOOD OUTLETS Dairy Queen/Orange Julius Hawaiian Fish N Chips Ippy’s Hawaiian BBQ Lemongrass Express Marble Slab Creamery® Paradise Pizza & Grill Starbucks Subway Sandwiches & Salads GROCERY Island Gourmet Markets JEWELRY & ART Genesis Galleries Island Pearls Lava Light Galleries Starscape Gallery OFFICES Aina Le’a Shopping Center Management SERVICES Century 21 All Islands Hawaii Life Real Estate Brokers Hearts & Stars Salon & Day Spa Hilton Grand Vacations Club Luxury Big Island by Harold Clarke Waikoloa Dental Clinic Waikoloa Realty SPECIALTY & GIFTS Bike Works Beach ’n Sports Blue Wilderness Dive Adventures Claire’s Hawaiian Quilt Collection Hawaiian Ukulele & Guitar Lids Ocean Sports Pacific Nature SoHa Living Sunglass Hut

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Bring this ad “Kona Su to r N’ Sandals f to receiv ” FREE Qu e a e MarketPlaens c logo item e .

808-886-8822 QueensMarketPlace.net Waikoloa Beach Resort the Kohala Coast 20 miles north of Kona International Airport

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GOLF

BIRDS OF A

FEATHER WORDS ANDREW WALSH

n March of 2016, following 237 years of globetrotting from one collector to another, the ÿahu ÿula (feather cloak) and mahiole (feather helmet) offered to Captain James Cook by the high chief Kalaniÿöpuÿu were respectfully returned to the people of Hawai’i. Cook was gifted the cloak and helmet as a gesture of goodwill by the royal aliÿi (chief) upon arriving in Kealakekua Bay on the Big Island. Kalaniÿöpuÿu literally removed the garments from his own back and placed them on Cook’s. Honolulu’s Bishop Museum, the caretakers of the garments, considers them a priceless cultural treasure. These types of feathered cloaks and helmets were prized by the ancient Hawaiians and reserved exclusively for the aliÿi. The royal cloak and helmets were the result of countless hours of labor and craftsmanship by royal Hawaiian artisans over many years. The feather cloak alone that Cook received is composed of feathers from over 20,000 island birds. Special bird hunters would skillfully catch and pluck only a few feathers from individual birds and then 50

release them for later recapture and plucking. In total, a cloak could be made of hundreds of thousands of feathers, and the longer a cloak, the higher ranking the aliÿi who wore it. The cloaks embodied the spirit of a prosperous environment, which was a sign of leadership since it took a thriving ecosystem to produce enough feathers to craft these magnificent pieces. These amazing works of art were literally considered an ahu (altar) on the wearer, as the aliÿi were considered akua (gods) among men. As sacred creatures that spanned the divide between heaven and earth, birds were a fitting symbol of this royal divine class. Red-colored feathers were often the primary plumage of garments, as red was a traditional sign of royalty among Polynesian cultures. These sacred feathers were plucked mainly from two types of Hawaiian honeycreepers: the ÿiÿiwi and the ÿapapane (both of which can still be spotted today). Black and yellow feathers were also plucked from two types of honeycreepers, mamo and ÿöÿö. However, yellow was BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

more highly sought after than other colors, as only some feathers on the bottom of the mainly black mamo and ÿöÿö were of the cherished yellow variety. The ÿahu ÿula of Hawaiÿi’s most famous ruler, King Kamehameha the Great, consists of approximately 450,000 of these yellow feathers from the mamo bird, found only on the Big Island. Alas, these royal garments will forever remain symbols of a culture and its environment permanently consigned to history as the mamo and ÿöÿö would follow the ancient Hawaiian kingdom into extinction. Although Hawaiÿi has lost many of its native inhabitants, the Hawaiian birds that have survived represent one of the most unique evolutionary experiments in the history of our planet. They have helped to confirm our human origins by building upon Darwin’s groundbreaking theories following his southern Pacific voyage through the Galapagos. Millions of years ago, a few bird species made their way to the HawaiianEmperor seamount chain, what would later become the Hawaiian archipelago and the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands. From this handful of fortunate birds, Hawaiÿi’s unique geography, climactic variations, and isolation would encourage what scientists call “adaptive radiation.” A few species, over million of years, would eventually become around 140 native birds species. The nearly 60 species of honeycreepers, favorites among birdwatchers, evolved from just two distinct finch-like birds that accidentally landed on these remote birdless islands. Sadly, the influence of the ancient Hawaiian and subsequent European colonizers would eventually create an extinction catastrophe, reversing millions of years of nature’s work in barely an evolutionary blink. Today, over half of all endemic birds in Hawai‘i are extinct, with 31 of the remaining 42 native species threatened with extinction. Hawai‘i is the “endangered species capital of the world,” yet it receives a tiny fraction of endangered species funding. Despite this, there are plenty of reasons to be hopeful—Hawaiÿi is still home to many tropical bird species and there has been a resurgence of Hawaiian culture, language, and arts. With the revitalization and appreciation of the rich natural and cultural heritage lost throughout the islands, much effort has been spent on preserving and potentially restoring the ecologically and culturally important native bird populations throughout the islands. Hawai‘i became a leader in the conservation of bird species with the creation of the nation’s first forest bird national wildlife refuge on the Big Island. The nearly 33,000acre Hakalau (place of many perches) Forest National Wildlife Refuge located on the eastern slope of Mauna Kea between 2,500 and 6,600-ft is the ‘island sanctuary’ that today’s native birds have long been needing. Similar efforts focusing on the reintroduction or conservation of native birds, some of which are extinct in the wild, have successfully been attempted by the Keauhou Bird Conservation Center (KBCC), located in Volcano on the Big Island (and on Maui), the Kauaÿi Forest Bird Recovery Project, and the Kaua‘i Seabird Habitat Conservation Program (KSHCP). Among the ancient Hawaiian bird experts—the kia manu (royal bird catchers)— there was a saying, “Makaÿala ke kanaka kähea manu” (A man who calls birds should always be alert). Oft heard within ancient Hawaiian culture, its meaning had more to do with being open and alert to opportunities if one wishes to be successful, but for the bird catcher it meant success comes with dedication and perseverance to your craft. Today, a new class of bird and nature enthusiast continues to stalk the avian apparitions of Hawaiÿi’s canopies for many of the same amazing bird species that once adorned the aliÿi of times gone past. To find these winged wonders, one still needs to be alert and dedicated, but it never hurts to give an offering or prayer to Haÿina-kolo, the Hawaiian goddess of tapa makers and bird catchers. Ask her for the continued protection of these highly unique and endangered rare birds, and your success in viewing them.

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Use the guide below to further help you along this journey. It includes some of the more spectacular native and nonnative birds, as well as the commonly seen birds, hiding among Hawai‘i’s many climates and ecosystems. RARE NATIVE BIRDS ‘Ākepa: This small, insect-eating honeycreeper forages in the high canopy of ÿöhiÿa trees in high altitude native rainforests of the Big Island. They use their distinct offset/crossed beak to open leaf and flower buds in search of their insect prey. Males are bright orange with a small yellow beak and females are gray-green with dark wings and shades of yellow on the breast band. Similar species once found on Oÿahu and Maui are most likely extinct. Although highly endangered, they show encouraging signs of recovery in the Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge on Hawaiÿi. Status: Endangered since 1970 ‘AkiapŌlā‘au: This rare honeycreeper is found only in a few koa forest areas in higher elevations on the Big Island. Feeding on insect larvae such as the woodboring beetle under the bark of koa trees, this clever bird has developed a method of touching its long thin upper beak to its short stout lower beak like a pair of tweezers. With its mouth wide open, it can also feed like a woodpecker, using its lower beak to peck into the wood to locate larvae and pry them out with its hooked upper bill. The male is bright yellow with a black mask and the female is dull green with a shorter bill. Its fate is largely tied to that of the dwindling koa forests. Status: Endangered since 1967 ‘Alalā (Hawaiian Crow): One of the most endangered birds in the world; they now only exist mainly in captivity. Earlier this year, breeding programs released about 100 or so into the wild in hopes of repopulating them. In the wild, they were only found in forested slopes on the western side of Mauna Loa. Dependent on an understory cover of ÿöhiÿa and koa trees, these birds fed on insects, seeds, fruits, and nestlings. With the body shape and coloration of a typical crow, the ÿalalä stands out among other Hawaiian forest birds. In ancient times, if a Hawaiian canoe builder heard the cackle of the ÿalalä while next to a potential log, he would avoid it, as this was a signal it was rotten inside. Status: Critically Endangered, Extinct in the Wild Nēnē: This highly endangered Hawaiian goose is also the state bird. Males and females have a black head myhawaiitraveler.com

and hindneck with large “goose-like” bodies, with females being slightly smaller. They are unmistakable and easy to recognize once seen. Nënë once existed in both high and lowland habitats in large numbers but now are mainly found in high elevations due to habitat loss. They feed on leaves, seeds, and fruits and the occasional grass or flower. Nënë are the world’s rarest goose and narrowly escaped extinction in the 1950s. They exist in small numbers in the wild on Oÿahu, Maui, Kauaÿi, Molokaÿi, and the Big Island. Nënë are mentioned in the Hawaiian creation chant (Kumulipo) and were a prized source for meat and feathers for the Hawaiians. Status: Endangered since 1967 Palila: A large finch-billed honeycreeper found only in the dryland mämane-naio forests high on the upper slopes of Mauna Kea. Using their feet to hold immature mämane seedpods and their heavy bills to pry them open, these birds rely solely on this type of habitat. With less than 1,200 remaining in the wild, palila are currently being bred in captivity with ongoing successful reintroductions. The males have bright yellow heads with a black mask, white bellies, and yellowish wings. The females look very similar, but with slightly subdued coloration. Existing now in only small patches on Mauna Kea, it is an extraordinary example of evolutionary adaptation in an environment that is toxic to most other creatures. Status: Endangered since 1967 Puaiohi: The small Kaua‘i thrush is a very rare fruiteating bird found only in the dense Alaka‘i Swamp on the island of Kaua‘i. Current estimates put the wild population at around 250 individuals, but captive breeding and reintroduction efforts make this bird a potential conservation success story. In 1999, a pair of captive bred birds that were released into the wild successfully hatched two healthy chicks. The male and female are very similar looking nondescript, olivebrown birds with distinct white-eye rings. It is the only remaining bird that disperses native plant seeds on Kauaÿi. Status: Critically Endangered, Endangered since 1967 53

COMMON NATIVE BIRDS ‘Apapane: Found mostly in high elevation ÿöhiÿa and koa forests, these honeycreepers have stable population throughout six of the eight main islands. They are the most commonly seen honeycreeper found in Hawaiian Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island. The male has a bright red top and back with white feathers under the tail and a short black bill. The female is slightly smaller. The beautiful feathers from this bird were once used by the aliÿi (Hawaiian royalty) to decorate their helmets, capes, and lei. They were also exalted in the Hawaiian creation chant (Kumulipo) as having been created during the “dawnof-time,” thus they are a kino lau (body spirit) for many Hawaiian deities. Status: Non-endangered ‘I‘ iwi: The third most common native honeycreeper has a medium-sized build with beautiful red coloration and dark black wings. Their long orange bills curve downward to aid in extracting nectar from ÿöhiÿa blossoms and mämane flowers. They are generally found in wet ÿöhiÿa or dry mämane forests above 4000 feet where mosquitoes are absent. Its decurved bill was thought to be a coevolutionary adaptation with similarly shaped ‘tubular’ Hawaiian flowers, some of which are now extinct. ‘I‘iwi are important pollinators of many native plants. Their red feathers were important components of the feather cloaks and helmets worn by aliÿi. It is also thought that the demigod, Maui, who pulled up the islands from the ocean, gave the tropical birds, in particular the ‘i‘iwi, their bright red coloration and distinct loud call. Status: Non-endangered COMMON NON-NATIVE BIRDS Common Myna: Declared by the IUCN as one of three birds on the world’s worst invasive species list, this large native of Asia was introduced to Hawaiÿi in 1865 to control plagues of armyworms and cutworms in the sugarcane crops. It subsequently spread the invasive, toxic flowering plant West Indian Lantana. This highly adaptable bird prefers woodland and farmland, but thrives in urban and suburban environments as it can build a nest in any covered nook or cranny. It has a stocky build with a brown body, black head and distinct yellow legs, bill, and eye patch. Found throughout all of the main Hawaiian Islands, they are sometimes kept as pets and well known for their ability to mimic human sounds. 54

Japanese White-eye: One of the most common birds in Hawaiÿi, it is found in wet forests and suburban areas throughout all of the main islands. In 1929, it was introduced as a means to control pests. This small songbird has an olive-green upper body with a yellow chin, throat, and tail. It has smoky shading on the flanks and a distinct white-eye ring. This highly energetic and acrobatic passerine is often seen in flocks, constantly on the move, searching for insects and nectar. In the wild, it is a major competitor for food resources with the native bird population and a carrier of avian parasites; but as a caged bird, its birdsongs and social skills are very popular among pet owners. Java Sparrow: Native to Indonesia, this large seed and insect eater was twice introduced, in 1867 and later in the 1960s. Considered a pest to agricultural crops, they like to build nests in trees and the eaves of buildings. Found throughout the five largest Hawaiian Islands, it can often be seen in parks, grassy areas, and urban centers. These distinct birds have a gray upper body and wings with a pink underbelly. The head is jet black with large white cheek patches, narrow red eye rings, and a large cone shaped pink bill. It is also a popular cage bird. Red-crested Cardinal: Also known as the Brazilian cardinal, this native of South America was first introduced on Oÿahu in 1928. They are now found throughout all of the main islands in parks, lawns, and dry shrubs. Consisting on a diet of seeds, fruits, plants, and insects, these omnivores have white bellies, black uppers, and a distinct bright red head, face, and upper breast outlined by an incomplete white collar. The males are nest-builders contingent upon the females “site” approval, and juveniles display a strange eating behavior where they wait for the parent to pick up food and feed it to them even though they are the same, if not larger, size. Saffron Finch: Introduced in the 1960s, this striking bird is often kept as a caged ornamental pet, but is found throughout Oÿahu and the Big Island. It was brought from the open/semi-open lowland areas around the Amazon basin. The males are bright yellow with an orange crown and black shading on the wings. Females are a duller version of the males and sometimes look olive-brown. It prefers to ground forage for seeds, insects, and plants. During mating season, the males are very territorial, a behavior that people have exploited for cage fighting contests. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

‘Apapane

Nēnē

Java Sparrow

Red-crested Cardinal

‘‘I‘ iwi

Saffron Finch

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HISTORIC NORTH & SUNNY SOUTH Out of the first section of the Big Island to rise from the sea lies spectacular white sand beaches, world-renowned golf, luxurious resorts and spas, and a chic offering of restaurants and shops. Besides the plush effects, the weather also gives the Kohala District the nickname “the Gold Coast.” The sunniest destination on the island boasts both nationally-ranked beaches and some very secluded hidden gems. Add some swaying palm trees and incredible sunsets and you will call it paradise. The multiple hues of blue from the crystal clear water and green from the fairways are a dramatic contrast against the black lava fields that line the majestic coastline. Beautiful views of Mauna Kea and Maui are included along with major provocative history that unified the islands of Hawai‘i. The Pu‘ukoholä Heiau in Kawaihae is a significant historical site for the statehood of Hawai‘i. King Kamehameha built the heiau with strict guidelines to dedicate it to his family war god, to fulfill the prophecy of conquering all the islands. Kawaihae is an alluring harbor town with a handful of original shops and delectable restaurants favored by locals. It’s a great place to kick back and relax and watch the busy activities of the harbor. Fish with the locals or bask in the sunshine on a sandy beach next to the boat ramp. Travel north to Häwï and Kapa‘au. Once they were busy commercial centers during the operation of the Kohala Sugar plantation and served as large camps for many countries. Regional cuisines were shared among the workers and diversity was beautifully woven into the community. Take the time to explore the charming boutiques of Häwï to find treasures to take home with you. Be sure to come hungry and dine at the sushi restaurant, which serves creative, delectable delights with unique island flair you won’t find anywhere else. Visit the original King Kamehameha Statue commissioned by King David Kaläkaua as it stands proudly at the legendary birthplace of the Great King in Kapa‘au. The statue was intended for Honolulu, but was lost in a shipwreck off the coast of South America. Another statue was commissioned and the replica was sent to Honolulu. The original was salvaged and returned to its rightful place in Kapa‘au in 1912. A few miles past Kapa‘au, Pololü Valley Lookout offers stunning, breathtaking views of coastline and valley. The hike down is easy and you will be rewarded with a beautiful black sand beach. However, going up is a different story. Upcountry from Kawaihae, Waimea is a beautiful place still alive with its cowboy heritage that has breathtaking views of Kohala Mountain and Mauna Kea. Because it is set on higher elevation, a sweater may be needed to enjoy the surroundings. It is home to Parker Ranch, paniolo (cowboys) and rodeos and the quaint community has the feel of Colorado in springtime. Although the landscape has changed dramatically from its spectacular beginnings with prime resorts and trendy shops along the Kohala Coast, the tradition of aloha remains the true splendor of the land. 56

PHOTO COURTESY: (ALL) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM

DESTINATIONS

KOHALA

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

HAPUNA GOLF COURSE

This Arnold Palmer/Ed Seay-designed 18-hole championship course is nestled into the dramatic natural contours of the land from the shoreline to about 700 feet above sea level. This beautiful course features spectacular vistas of the Kohala Coast and the Pacific, with snow-capped Mauna Kea volcano as a backdrop. Hapuna’s challenging play and environmental sensitivity make it one of Hawai‘i’s most unique golf courses. Tee times: (808) 880-3000.

HUALĀLAI RESORT

The Hualälai Golf Course, the first Jack Nicklaus Signature Course on the Big Island is home of the PGA Champions Tour Mitsubishi Electric Championship every January. This carefully groomed course was designed with a sense of place. Special care was taken to preserve the historic King’s Trail located on the course, and other significant cultural sites at the resort. Residents and residential guests of Hualälai along with guests of the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai may enjoy this great facility, which includes a nine-acre driving range with 27,000 square foot short game practice area. For information, please call (808) 325-8480.

MAUNA KEA GOLF COURSE

For over 40 years, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel has been the most celebrated resort in Hawaii. And Mauna Kea Golf Course, carved out of ancient lava flows by Robert

Trent Jones, Sr., is consistently ranked among the top 10 in the world. This course which emulates the legend of Hawai‘i as a golfer’s paradise, boasts the famed 3rd hole, where surging blue inlet waves thunder against a rocky black shoreline for an experience you’ll remember forever. Without changing the essential character of his father’s design, Rees Jones completed a tee-to-green renovation in the fall of 2008. (808) 882-5400.

MAUNA LANI RESORT NORTH COURSE

The North Course, becoming known as the tournament course, is a bit more difficult than the South Course, displays a much different face of Hawai‘i Golf. Built on a lava bed, it is characterized by rolling terrain punctuated by kiawe forests. Trees often come into play on this course. Number 17, a par-3 tucked into a natural lava amphitheater, is another one of the resort’s signature holes and a favorite “I was here” photo spot. Public. 18 holes. 68-1310 Mauna Lani Dr. (808) 885-6655.

MAUNA LANI RESORT SOUTH COURSE

The South Course snakes through the stark, rugged a‘a lava of the prehistoric Kaniku lava flow. Besides great golf, the challenging course offers the player a panorama of mountain and ocean views. The South Course is home to No. 15, one of the most photographed overthe-water golf holes in the world. Public. 18 holes. 681310 Mauna Lani Dr. (808) 885-6655.

WAIKOLOA RESORT BEACH COURSE

Weaving its way through rolling lava beds, down to the surf, the Waikoloa Beach Course is simply breathtaking. Designed by Rober Trent Jones Jr., this par-70, 6,566 yard course offers strategically placed water features and immaculate greens that are well guarded by the course’s 74 white sand bunkers. The crowning glory of the Beach Course is the intimidating, par 5, 502 yard 12th hole. Playing along the Pacific Ocean, the 12th hole not only offers challenging golf, it is a great place to watch humpback whales and catch splendid views of the other Hawaiian Islands. Public. 18 holes. 600 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808)886-7888.

WAIKOLOA RESORT KINGS’ COURSE

Waikoloa Kings’ Course is one of the most challenging and picturesque golf courses in Hawai‘i. This Tom Weiskopf and Jay Morrish design was named one of the top 100 on Golfweek’s 2005 “America’s Best Resort Courses” list. The Kings’ Course uniquely provides golfers the best of two worlds; golf on an island paradise offering uninterrupted views of snow-capped Mauna Kea, on a course that more closely resembles a layout along the coast of Scotland. The 7,064 yard links-style golf course is highlighted by six lakes, 83 sand traps, and wide undulating fairways. Kings’ offers a solid, strategic layout that requires a golfer to think his way around the course. Public. 18 holes. 600 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808)886-7888.

PHOTO COURTESY: (OPPOSITE) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM

Two ouTsTanding golf courses, one unforgettable experience.

Waikoloa Beach ResoRt - Beach & kings’ golf couRses Hawaii’s Best Golf Value WaikoloaGolf.com

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Tee Times: 808.886.7888

Golf@WaikoloaLand.com

600 Waikoloa Beach Drive

Waikoloa, Hawai’i 96738

GOLF

ISLAND GOLF

Dining at Mauna Kea. What was is. And more. “Creating true flavor does not require many ingredients, provided they are of supreme quality, harmonize well and are prepared with consummate skill,” says Mauna Kea Beach Hotel executive chef Roger Bartle. Such is the philosophy at this legendary grand dame of the Kohala Coast. At Manta & Pavilion Wine Bar, postcard views of Kauna’oa Bay from every table complement superbly prepared cuisine. Hau Tree’s tropical beach menu is simple, but rich in flavors. And Copper Bar’s creative Pacific Rim Tapas combine fresh products, a subtle blend of spices, exotic flavors and a tasting principle based on abundance and sharing.

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MAUNA KEA BEACH HOTEL Executive Chef Roger Bartle MANTA & PAVILION WINE BAR Mauna Kea’s signature restaurant overlooking the beach and Manta Point Breakfast, Dinner and Hawaii Island’s famous Sunday Brunch from 11:30 am to 2:00 pm COPPER BAR 11:00am - 11:00 pm HAU TREE Light Dining Beachside NUMBER 3 Casual Clubhouse Dining at Mauna Kea Golf Course MAUNA KEA LU- ‘AU Tuesdays and Fridays, 6:00 to 8:30 pm

HAPUNA BEACH PRINCE HOTEL Director of Culinary, Peter Abarcar Jr. COAST GRILLE Island Seafood, Oyster Bar, Poke-to-Taste Menu with ocean views OCEAN TERRACE Open-Air Breakfast a la carte & Buffet and Friday Let’s Go Crabbing BEACH BAR Casual poolside dining overlooking Hapuna Beach HAPUNA CAFÉ Grab-and-Go Convenience

CLAMBAKE Saturdays from 6:00 to 8:00 pm Reservations recommended. Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, 808.882.5707 | Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel, 808.880.1111 PrinceResortsHawaii.com

Great ways to play legendary Mauna Kea Golf Course and its sister, Hapuna Golf Course. Triple Play — 1 round at Mauna Kea, 2 rounds at Hapuna, $400 Five Play — 2 rounds at Mauna Kea, 3 rounds at Hapuna, $550 Unlimited Play - $200 per day, 3-day minimum Try Mauna Kea’s new Golf Boards to add independence to your game! Fees are per person, plus tax. Complete your rounds within two weeks of purchase. Packages are non-refundable and valid through 12/18/16.

Tee times: 808.882.5400 PrinceGolfHawaii.com Facebook.com/MaunaKeaResortGolf

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62 ISLAND DINING GUIDE 68 WHAT WE LOVE NOW 70 THE HOT SPOT 72 CULINARY CONVERGENCE 82 BREWING ALOHA 88 BIG ISLAND'S SEAFOOD BOUNTY PHOTO COURTESY: HAWAII FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL

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island-inspired cuisine is drawn from simple, pure flavors of locally grown produce using the diverse variety of fresh seafood from our island waters and the finest mainland meats. Open nightly for dinner beginning at 5:30 p.m. Located oceanside at the Fairmont Orchid. Call (808) 887-7368. COAST GRILLE At Coast Grille, Executive Chef, Peter Abarcar Jr and Chef de Cuisine, Vince Logan are passionate in the pursuit of the freshest island ingredients where sustainable, organic and wild ingredients are sourced to present, Island Seafood Gastronomy. Dine overlooking the breathtaking Pacific and indulge in the Coast Grille Oyster Bar featuring the freshest seafood including seasonal oysters with your choice of tempting sauces on the half shell or as a shooter. Also presented are local delicacies including Salt Water Poached Kona Abalone and Fresh Catch Poke, made to order. Located at the Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel. For reservations call (808) 880-1111. COPPER BAR fter a multi-million dollar renovation, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel welcomes diners back to its iconic gathering place, the new Copper Bar. While the relaxed setting and magical sunsets remain, the bright new look and shared-plates culinary concept are shaking things up in a fun and inspired way. An elongated bar, a TV “lounge” area, an elevated communal dining table, multiple dining nooks, and open view planes accentuate the true centerpiece of Copper Bar—gorgeous panoramic views of Kauna‘oa Bay. Open daily 11am-11pm with complimentary valet parking. ocated at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel.

KOHALA COAST BEACH TREE The ocean side Beach Tree is an experience…a place to enjoy casual dining and linger longer, where the focus is on fresh, local, seasonal and handmade cuisine. The cuisine is Cal-Ital... Innovative Italian dishes infused with California flavors. Handcrafted cocktails incorporating fresh, local fruit as well as sangria and a selection of wines are also featured. At the center of the resort, it is a place to meet, connect with friends and family and celebrate lifestyle. With the combination of restaurant, lounge and bar, the experiences meet a variety of guests’ needs. The 62

server and guest interaction promotes ‘ohana. Children’s (ages 5 – 12) menu is available. Serving lunch, dinner and drinks daily, with Hawaiian entertainment nightly from 6-8:30 p.m. Casual resort attire. Located at the Four Seasons Hualälai Resort. For reservations call (808) 3258000 or fourseasons.com/hualalai. BROWN’S BEACH HOUSE Big Island-inspired cutting edge cuisine takes center stage at The Fairmont Orchid’s Brown’s Beach House restaurant known for its expansive ocean views, incomparable cuisine and sophisticated service with Aloha. Innovative

HAWAII CALLS RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Enjoy an elaborate daily breakfast buffet and a la carte menu. Salads, sandwiches and tropical drinks are available for lunch poolside or in the seated dining area. Dinner features Americanand Pacific Rim-style cuisine. Located at the Marriott Waikoloa Beach Resort. Call (808) 886-8111. THE HUALĀLAI GRILLE A classic American steakhouse with local flair. Set above the 18th green of the famed Hualälai Golf Course, Hualälai Grille evokes a contemporary club feel, with dark wood flooring and magnificent golf course and ocean views. Serving Prime steaks with hand crafted BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

traditional sides, island fresh fish, local Hämäkua Mushrooms, and Macadamia Nut Toffee Ice Cream Pie are just a few of Chef James Ebrero’s signature dishes. The Bar offers an extensive cocktail menu including the “19th Hole” Absolute Ruby Red Vodka, fresh squeezed Kohala grapefruit and lime juices and agave nectar. In addition, Hualälai Grille’s extensive wine list includes both wines by the glass and bottle, along with a wide beer selection. Hualälai Grille is open for dinner Wednesday through Monday, with reservations available from 5:30 p.m. - 8:30 p.m. For information, please call (808) 325-8450 or (808) 325-8525.

SEAFOOD

HAPPY HOUR DAILY

3-5:30pm 10pm - closing

EARLY BIRD SPECIALS

BAR & GRILL I N

D O W N T O W N

5:30-6:30pm

NFL SUNDAY BREAKFASTS

KA WA I H A E

Kick-off to 11am

SASHIMI • STEAKS • FRESH FISH • CLAMS • BURGERS • SALADS Tuesday Night is KIAWE SMOKED PRIME RIB NIGHT 3 Big Screen HDTVs

Showing Major Sporting Events • NFL Football Package

IMARI Discover Imari - a captivating Japanese restaurant, featuring many distinctive styles of Japanese cuisine. Indulge in the Big Island’s only location for teppanyaki dining. Experience chef artistry at the Sushi Bar and sample a variety of fresh delicacies. Delight in washoku, an authentic Japanese dining experience. Take pleasure in the succulent dishes available at this truly tantalizing eatery. Located in the Hilton Waikoloa Village. Call (808) 886-1234.

OPEN DAILY 11AM - 2AM

Seafood Bar & Grill Best Restaurant in Kawaihae 2011

808-880-9393

AIR-CONDITIONED 61-3642 KAWAIHAE ROAD WWW.SEAFOODBARGRILL.COM

Queens’ MarketPlace The Most Dining Options On The Kohala Coast

—— DINING —— Charley’s Thai Cuisine Daylight Mind Café & Restaurant Romano’s Macaroni Grill Sansei Seafood, Steak & Sushi Bar —— GROCERY —— Island Gourmet Markets

808-886-8822

—— FOOD OUTLETS —— Dairy Queen/Orange Julius Hawaiian Fish N Chips Ippy’s Hawaiian BBQ Lemongrass Express Marble Slab Creamery® Paradise Pizza & Grill Starbucks Subway Sandwiches and Salads

| QueensMarketPlace.net

Waikoloa Beach Resort | the Kohala Coast 20 miles north of Kona International Airport on Queen Kaahumanu Highway myhawaiitraveler.com

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KAMUELA PROVISION COMPANY Captivating sunset ocean views are the perfect complement to enjoying our new menu. Experience our mouth-watering cuisine of the Big Island. World class service in a world class setting. Open nightly for dinner and cocktails. Reservations recommended. Located at the Hilton Waikoloa Village. Call (808) 886-1234.

AWARD-WINNING, ISLAND INSPIRED.

MANTA & PAVILION WINE BAR Manta & Pavilion Wine Bar is pioneering Kohala Regional Cuisine, featuring ingredients grown and raised within a 15-mile radius especially for Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. Complementing the cuisine is a state-of-theart Enomatic wine system serving outstanding wines by the glass, many found nowhere else in the state. For the ultimate food and wine experience, join our monthly Wine Dinners. You’ll enjoy outstanding vintages paired with exquisite cuisine, and meet distinguished guests from the world of winemaking. Located at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. For reservations call (808) 882-5810. NORIO’S SUSHI BAR & RESTAURANT Featuring authentic, traditional Japanese cuisine and stellar sushi. The sushi chefs bring a level of experience and quality to the Big Island normally associated with the better restaurants in Tokyo. The 15-seat custom sushi bar provides an ‘up close and personal’ culinary experience. The menu reflects a reverence for traditional Japanese delicacies, especially the exceptionally fresh seafood that he hand-selects daily. Open Thursday through Monday 5:30 p.m.-9:00 p.m. Located at the Fairmont Orchid. Call (808) 885-2000.

Brown’s Beach House. Hawai`i Island cuisine and balmy tropical breezes beckon. Unwind as the sun dips beneath the sea. Taste awardwinning favors featuring locally grown produce. Savor the best

NUMBER 3 Thirsty golfers seeking a mid-round oasis, will love the tasteful new look and tasty menus of our new golf clubhouse restaurant, “Number 3” - almost good enough to guarantee a lower score on the back nine. Share a gourmet pizza in a relaxed, casual atmosphere, along with a cold one from the tap, signature Mauna Kea cocktails or frosty fruit smoothie. Located at the Mauna Kea Golf Course.For reservations call (808) 882-5810.

from the surf and the turf. Dinner served nightly from 5:30 to 8:30 pm. For reservations, call 808.887.7368 or visit fairmont.com/orchid-hawaii.

QUEENS’ MARKETPLACE ‘ONO FOOD COURT Food Network Star’s season eight finalist, Philip “Ippy” Aiona introduces “Ippy’s Hawaiian BBQ,” to the Queens’ Marketplace Food Court, presenting his special twist on the iconic Hawaiian plate lunch. Across the way, look for Lemongrass Express, serving Chef TK’s fresh Asian-fusion cuisine, locally sourced and full of flavor. Family favorites Arby’s, Dairy Queen/ BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Orange Julius, Paradise Pizza & Grill and Subway Sandwiches and Salads make sure there is something for everyone in your ‘ohana! For more information, visit queensmarketplace.net. SEAFOOD BAR & GRILL Savor the true flavors of Hawai‘i and visit Seafood Bar & Grill in the historic harbor town of Kawaihae on the Kohala Coast. Since 2002, we’ve been serving the freshest local seafood in a casual and fun atmosphere where you can sit comfortably, inside or out. Try one of our signature dishes like the Seafood Crusted Fresh Catch, Ginger Steamed Clams or our famous Fried Rice. We promise food that is both delectable and reasonably priced. You can also slide up to our beautiful 70-foot Mango wood bar and enjoy one of the island’s finest Happy Hours with well drinks, mai tais, import beers, drafts, margaritas, house wines, and more. Embracing the true “aloha spirit,” join us for a delicious dining experience you won’t forget. Call (808) 880-9393 or visit seafoodbargrill.com. STAVROS PATERAKIS, PRIVATE CHEF With 15 years of experience cooking in awardwinning restaurants on the West Coast and the

Big Island, Stavros Paterakis now brings his culinary talents to the comforts of your home, vacation rental or outdoor setting to take you on a flavorful journey. From Hawaiian Regional to American classics to various ethnic cuisines, Stavros will create menus to cater to your personal tastes and needs using the freshest bounty of the Big Island. Whether it is an intimate dinner for two, family-style gathering or special event, Stavros will make it an unforgettable dining experience. References are available upon request. For bookings, call (808) 895-1654 or Squidlid@aol.com. THE CANOEHOUSE The CanoeHouse is located oceanfront on the scenic Kohala Coast offering breathtaking views of the crystal blue Pacific. The talented and acclaimed Chef Allen Hess has developed a market fresh menu focusing on Island fresh ingredients of Hawai‘i. We aim to provide a world-class dining experience. Located oceanfront at the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows. Call (808) 885-6622 for reservations.

THE THREE FAT PIGS Chef Ippy Aiona’s lakeside restaurant, The Three Fat Pigs & The Thirsty Wolf, featuring Euro-Pacific cuisine and a full-service Gastropub, is quickly becoming a popular spot for Hawai‘i diners. Chef Ippy was the youngest person to have been featured on the TV show Food Network Star (Season 8), and has received numerous accolades for his creative and innovative cuisine which mixes European cooking techniques with fresh Pacific cuisine ingredients. Located at Kings’ Shops in Waikoloa Beach Resort. For reservations call (808) 339-7145. TROPICS ALE HOUSE Tropics Tap House & Ale House are “Fresh Kitchen” contemporary restaurants, craft beer bar and sports lounge concepts. The “Fresh Kitchen” movement has been inspired by a large consumer interest in local, sustainable, and in some cases, organic foods that are fused together to create amazing, fresh menu items. In addition to the food, the bar and beverage service is aimed towards craft beers that are unique and seasonal, craft cocktails (using only premium liquors and garnishes), and precisely

Happy Hour 3-6 pm Everyday

Live Music Thursday-Saturday HAND-TOSSED GOURMET PIZZA

OVER 20 BEERS ON TAP

Craft Beers, Fresh Foods, Sports and Superb Hospitality! TropicsAleHouse.com

Come in for a 10% Discount WAIKOLOA BEACH RESORT 69-1022 Keana Place, Waikoloa Across from the Hilton Waikoloa 808-886-4287

myhawaiitraveler.com

KEAUHOU SHOPPING CENTER 78-6831 Alii Drive, Kailua-Kona 808-498-4507

mention this ad *food only

selected wines that complement our fresh food. Tropics features a “Contemporary American Grill” menu with inspiration from the wonderful local ingredients on the island. We serve plates in smaller and larger portions, ranging between $7-$17, and daily specials that vary in portion and price. Come in for Happy Hour daily. Visit us in Waikoloa Beach Resort, across from the Hilton Waikoloa, and in the Keauhou Shopping Center. Call (808) 886-4287 or visit tropicsalehouse.com for more information.

Brown's Beach House

Rays on the Bay 66

‘ULU OCEAN GRILL + SUSHI LOUNGE Showcasing a stylish blend of Hawaiian architecture and modern flair - a fun, lively, informal setting where guests are inspired, surprised and delighted by Hawai‘i’s natural beauty and the flavors of the Pacific. Casual, friendly and knowledgeable servers guide guests through a social dining experience, highlighting an innovative ocean-to-table menu with playful tableside presentation. Cuisine is prepared oven roasted, flame grilled and wok fired, and signature dishes include: Oven Roasted Whole Fish, Lobster Wonton Soup, Table-side Ahi Poke and Lilikoi Malasadas. The modern sushi lounge and 10-seat ocean view bar feature the Island’s freshest sushi, as well as craft cocktails, sake and Japanese beers. After-dinner drinks are enjoyed in a social setting around the fire pit on the beachside terrace. For reservations call (808) 325-8000. KONA ISLAND BREEZE LŪ‘AU This award winning lü‘au is held on the historic grounds of King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel. Savor the delicious feast as you revel in the colorful costumes and dances from Polynesia. Highlights include the Royal Court

arrival, imu (underground oven) ceremony, arts & crafts, and a spectacular Polynesian show with the Samoan fireknife dance finale. For reservations call (808) 326-4969 or visit islandbreezeluau.com. KEAUHOU-KONA HALEO LŪ‘AU Held under the starry skies and hala trees on the shores of Keauhou Bay, Haleo – the Voice of Life is Hawai‘i’s newest lü‘au. From the birth of Hawai‘i’s royalty to the surfing stories of He‘eia Bay, the dancers of Island Breeze take you on a colorful and entertaining journey through a special time in Hawai‘i’s history. Dine on a lavish buffet in a stunning oceanfront location where manta rays gather, whales breach, sunsets are stunning, and the sights and sounds of Polynesia all combine to create a special evening in paradise. Monday evenings at Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort & Spa. For reservations call (808) 326-4969 or visit haleoluau.com. RAYS ON THE BAY Situated on dramatic lava rocks iconic of the Kona Coast, Rays on the Bay features sustainable Big Island-inspired cuisine from farm to plate and hook to cook. Enjoy rich Island flavors like Kona Coffee, sea salt, lilikoi (passion fruit) and fresh fish, paired with volcanic wines and local spirits. Take in a crimson Keauhou sunset while you dine on coastal inspired entrees with gorgeous views of Keauhou Bay. After sunset, enjoy a beverage as you view Keauhou’s giant resident manta rays – gracefully swimming along the coast. Located at the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay. Dinner served nightly from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m., bar & patio open 5:30 to 11 p.m. Call (808) 930-4949. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (FROM TOP) SUSAN BREDO/MAUNA LANI BAY HOTEL & BUNGALOWS; FAIRMONT ORCHID, HAWAII; SHERATON KONA RESORT & SPA AT KEAUHOU BAY

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The Canoe House

WHAT WE LOVE NOW WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

EAT LOCO Chef Dayne Tanabe has done it again! Chef of Restaurants at Hilton Waikoloa Village, Chef Dayne recently won “Best Savory” dish at the Big Island Chocolate Festival for his Crispy Short Rib Loco Moco. Tempura battered and served with a 70% Waialua Estate dark chocolate Oaxaca mole gravy, Hämäkua mushrooms, coca nibs as the fried rice, and an egg yolk gel, this reinvention of the traditional loco moco sold out of the six hundred plates at the event. Chef Dayne is in the process of utilizing facets of this award-winning dish in new menu items throughout the next few months at the various Hilton Waikoloa Village outposts, and this dish will be featured as a special at Kamuela Provision Company (KPC). Whether you are looking to satisfy your cravings of delicious, fresh seafood, a perfectly cooked cut of prime steak, or inventive interpretations of local favorites, plus a breathtaking ocean view, be sure to check out what Chef Dayne and his team at KPC has on the menu. KPC is located within the Hilton Waikoloa Village at 69-425 Waikoloa Beach Drive, and features outstanding food with unrivaled ocean views. For more information, call (808) 886-1234 or visit their website at hiltonwaikoloavillage.com/dining/kamuela-provision-company.

DRIVE IN Snaking along the waterfront in downtown Kailua-Kona, Ali‘i Drive is bustling with visitors. Despite the typical touristy reputation, Ali‘i Drive is home to some surprisingly delicious and affordable food offerings along the bay front. Hidden behind the main drag is the Frenchman’s Café, a quaint café serving up tempting French offerings, such as sweet and savory crêpes and other typical French delights such as pastries and croque-monsieurs. Don’t be surprised if you spend each morning of your vacation there—you won’t be the only ones! Over at Waterfront Row, Kamana Kitchen offers authentic Indian food, such as spicy curries, crispy naans, all with an ocean view. The staff is super friendly, and the food packs a punch of delicious and traditional flavors. Right above Kamana Kitchen is Mi’s Waterfront Bistro, recently relocated to Ali‘i Drive from their previous location in Kealakekua. Mi’s makes their own pastas and creates outstanding interpretations of typical Italian flair using fresh local ingredients. With its new location above Kailua Bay, the only thing rivaling the food is the view. Those looking for cocktails won’t want to miss a sunset drink at Huggo’s on the Rocks, located, fittingly, on the rocks along the shoreline. Beer connoisseurs shouldn’t miss Humpy’s Big Island Ale House with 36 craft beers on tap, and for trivia geeks, bring your most random knowledge and your smartest friends to quiz night at Laverne’s Sports Bar on Tuesday evenings. It’s true that Ali‘i Drive really does have something for everyone. The Frenchman’s Café is located at 75-5729 Ali‘i Drive in the back of the Kona Marketplace shopping center. They are open everyday except Wednesdays from 7am to 2pm. Call (808) 365-2671 for more information. Kamana Kitchen is located at 75-5770 Ali‘i Drive in the Waterfront Row marketplace. They are open seven days a week from 11am to 9:30pm. For more information, call (808) 326-7888. Mi’s Waterfront Bistro is located above Kamana Kitchen in Waterfront Row and is open daily from 11am to 10pm. They offer different lunch, bar, and dinner menus. For reservations, call (808) 329-3880. myhawaiitraveler.com

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Celebrating their 70th anniversary, Kamuela Liquor Store is having a fantastic year. Known island-wide for their unrivaled selection, great prices, wine tastings and even lectures by experts in the industry, this family-run store is the place to go to add some variety to your liquor cabinet or pick up the perfect bottle of wine to complement your dinner. Locals come from all over the island to attend their special events, such as a recent anniversary bourbon tasting, and to talk story with owner Alvin Wakayama. Special barrels were hand-selected by Alicia Brady, manager and spirits specialist, and exclusively bottled in Kentucky to be sold and displayed in the store for their recent 70th anniversary. The commemorative bottles were autographed by Kamuela Liquor Store’s beloved founder Yukie Wakayama. There are also regular wine and Champagne tastings here that sometimes end up being standing room only with many 68

regulars faithfully attending their events. Customers come here not just to stock up on hard to find beers, wines, and spirits, but also for artisanal food products such as duck confit, ibérico ham, fine cheeses, olive oil, and vinegars. This little liquor store has been an institution for generations, and with such friendly service, knowledgeable staff, stellar selection, and an attention to detail not often found at larger stores, it’s easy to imagine that Kamuela Liquor Store will be serving customers for at least another seventy years. Cheers to that! Kamuela Liquor Store is located at 64-1010 Mämalahoa Highway in Waimea. They are open everyday from 8:30am to 7pm, except on Sundays, when their hours are 9am to 5pm. For more information, call (808) 885-4674. Don’t forget to sign up to be on their mailing list to receive updates on all of their exciting upcoming events. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM

LEGENDARY LANDMARK

WWLN

PHOTO COURTESY: FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALĀLAI

SENSATIONAL FLASH

There’s a mystifying phenomenon that happens every so often at sunset—a flash of green just as the sun dips below the horizon. Inspired by this epic evening spectacle, Beach Tree at Four Seasons Resort Hualälai has created their own interpretation of this event—an epic cocktail. The handcrafted Green Flash cocktail harmoniously combines the freshness of basil, a squeeze of lime, a dash of sweet coconut cream, and the spiciness of a jalapeño with some Patrón Silver tequila and Grand Marnier to create the ultimate evening libation. myhawaiitraveler.com

What better way to experience a Hawaiian sunset anticipating a green flash in a stunning setting while sipping on one? Whether or not the elusive green flash appears in the evening, you can chillax knowing that you’ve got your own memorable Green Flash in your glass. Beach Tree is located oceanfront at Four Seasons Resort Hualälai located at 72-100 Kaÿüpülehu Drive. For more information, call (808) 325-8000, or visit foodandwinehualalai.com. 69

THE

HOT SPOT

ROY'S WAIKOLOA BAR & GRILL

When I first moved to Hawaiÿi in 2004, one of my first fine dining culinary experiences took place at Roy’s in Kahana, Maui. I will never forget the flavors I experienced that evening, starting with the spice of the delectable firecracker chicken wonton appetizer, and ending with the unbelievably divine chocolate soufflé. That dinner set the pace for the next twelve years of discovery of Hawaiian fusion cuisine. Throughout that time, whether it was on Maui or here on the Big Island, Roy’s has been a part of a variety of special events in my life, from anniversaries and birthday dinners to work celebrations, or even just a casual evening out with my husband. This is one restaurant chain that is more than a popular dining establishment—it’s an integral part of life for locals here in Hawaiÿi. The origins of Roy’s goes back to the island of Oÿahu, where Roy Yamaguchi, one of the founders of Hawaiÿi Regional Cuisine, started his eponymous restaurant back in 1988. His influences from his home country of Japan, as well as stints in New York and California, lent 70

WORDS BROOKE REHMANN IMAGES KIRK AEDER

themselves perfectly to taking the fresh flavors of Hawaiian produce and combining them with thoughtful, modern techniques. Highlighting all of this are the additional flavors from around the Pacific Rim, creating a truly unique dining experience that foodies from all over have come to appreciate from Yamaguchi. Here on the Big Island, Roy’s Waikoloa Bar & Grill has been pleasing customers for nearly 20 years. Recently renovated, Roy’s Waikoloa’s interior is sleek, streamlined, and comfortable. Highlighting the gorgeous lake view, the space combines the sophistication of an upscale dining room without feeling stuffy. At the center of the space’s design is the signature open kitchen, where guests can watch Roy’s culinary team execute each order with precise skills. Coupled with attentive service with aloha, diners are in for a real treat. When dining at Roy’s, guests should be prepared for a world of culinary exploration. The menu changes daily, and reflects the availability of the products that Executive Chef Jennifer Hamilton and BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

her team can get their hands on. Specials tend to go quickly, so each trip to Roy’s offers the opportunity to try something new. However, some classics, such as the Hawaiian Style Misoyaki Butterfish, are a crowd favorite. This is an updated version of a traditional local dish, making it popular with both visitors and locals alike. Using only the freshest catch, this dish is marinated in mirin, sake, sugar and miso paste, then seared to a nice golden brown, and covered with a sizzling soy vinaigrette. This seriously scrumptious dish combines the umami of the miso with the sweetness of the mirin that results in an explosion of flavor and turns first time guests into regulars. Another must-try, and one of my all-time favorites, is the Charbroiled Beef Short Ribs. This hearty dish is so tender—the meat simply melts in your mouth. The carrot purée almost makes you wish you could lick your plate, and the creamy, cheesy au gratin potatoes are almost as delicious as the entrée itself. It really is a dish that you’ll think about long after you leave the restaurant. Waikoloa Meatloaf with crunchy beer battered onion rings, and an earthy, rich Hämäkua mushroom pan gravy is another standout, as is the Macadamia Nut Hawaiian Fish with a divine Kona lobster essence, roasted red bliss potatoes, and butter blanched asparagus. And when it comes to saving the best for last, Roy’s delivers. One of my absolute favorite desserts on the entire island is Roy’s Melting Hot Chocolate Soufflé served with a raspberry coulis and vanilla bean ice cream. It’s everything you want to end a delicious meal—warm, cold, sweet, tart, bitter, chocolaty—decadently harmonious. I can’t think of one time we’ve been to Roy’s and not ordered this dessert, no matter the occasion. The richness and bitterness of the chocolate is cut perfectly by the tart raspberry, with the dreamy vanilla ice cream adding a refreshing delicateness to such a rich dish. And no matter how many times I’ve been served this dessert, each and every single one has come out oozing, with the liquid, molten chocolate oozing out of its soft cake shell. This dish is a classic for a reason; done well, as it is here, it is simply perfection. If you’re thinking of hosting a party or a corporate event, Roy’s Waikoloa is also ideal for group functions or private parties— day or night. Even though Roy’s is only open for dinner, those who are looking for the perfect place for presentations paired with mouthwatering lunches should consider Roy’s. A variety of configurations and spaces can be arranged for groups of all sizes, from an intimate dinner for two, or a larger dinner party for 40 and beyond. Roy’s also offers an Aloha Hour from 5-o’clock to 6:30pm at the bar with specially priced cocktails, wines, sakes and tasty bar bites. The recently extended bar now offers televisions for those who want to catch the game during football season. And for parents looking for a special night out with the kids, Roy’s Waikoloa takes great pride in their kid’s menu and their attention to making every member of the family feel welcome. No matter if this is your first or fiftieth time visiting Hawaiÿi, you absolutely can’t miss experiencing such an iconic experience that Roy’s offers. And with Roy’s Waikoloa’s new look, fresh approach to local flavors, and thoughtful service, you’ll find yourself coming back again and again. And you never know—I just might see you there. Roy’s Waikoloa Bar & Grill is located within the Kings’ Shops in Waikoloa Resort. They are open for dinner from 5pm to 9pm daily. Reservations are recommended (808) 886-4321. For more information about group or private dining options, guests are encouraged to call the restaurant, or email restaurant manager Arnie McLain at pdwaikoloa@royshawaii.com. myhawaiitraveler.com

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CULINARY CONVERGENCE

RENOWNED CHEFS DISH ON COOKING IN HAWAI‘I WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

It’s no surprise many people are drawn to Hawaiÿi. Yet, for some of the world’s most distinguished chefs, it’s not just the sunny beaches and idyllic settings that call to them (though those things certainly don’t hurt). Instead, for these chefs, Hawaiÿi’s climate and soil represent something beyond the postcard-perfect scenes—it represents some of the best food on Earth. Inspired by the bountiful seas, abundant farmland, and traditional farming techniques of Hawaiÿi, these culinary masters travel thousands of miles to use the kinds of ingredients found nowhere else. Fortunately, for visitors and residents alike, the Big Island hosts some of the most recognizable names in the food industry this fall at two spectacular events: Hawaiÿi Food & Wine Festival’s Hot Lava, Hotter Cuisine, and Chef Fest at Four Seasons Resort Hualälai. I was incredibly privileged to talk story with a few of the headlining chefs and learn what draws them here, and what guests can most look forward to at these exceptional culinary events.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (OPPOSITE/ALL) HAWAII FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL

Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival’s Hot Lava, Hotter Cuisine Part of the 6th annual Hawaiÿi Food & Wine Festival (Oct. 14 thru Oct. 30 across the state), Hot Lava, Hotter Cuisine is the Big Island’s time to shine. Where else but the island that’s still playing host to the fierce goddess of fire would we expect to find some of the world’s hottest chefs? The HFWF’s philosophy of showcasing Hawaiÿi’s global impact on the culinary community is the jumping off point for seven masterful chefs coming together to create a delicious six-course plated meal at the Hilton Waikoloa Village on October 22nd. Each chef is assigned a unique course and local ingredient that aims to highlight the diverse products of the Big Island, and its impact on the larger Hawaiÿi culinary scene. Chefs at this event include: Michelle Bernstein, Miamibased James Beard Foundation award-winning chef known for her fiery Latin flavors; recent Hawaiÿi transplant and classically French trained chef Bruce Bromberg, of the prolific Bromberg Bros. empire, famous for their Blue Ribbon Restaurants and Brooklyn Bowl, where down-home American cuisine reigns supreme; awardwinning French chef Hubert Keller, known for his seminal Fleur de Lys, Fleur, and Burger Bar restaurants, and frequent television appearances including guest judge on Top Chef and Top Chef Just Desserts, finalist in Top Chef Masters, and host of PBS’s Secrets of a Chef; and Tae-Hwan Ryu, one of the world’s hottest rising culinary stars, head chef of Seoul’s Ryunique, recently voted as one of “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants,” where avant-garde presentations and contemporary techniques are combined with myhawaiitraveler.com

global flavors. Other chefs include La Brea Bakery’s Nancy Silverton, and local chefs Hans Lentz of the Hilton Waikoloa Village and Jayson Kanekoa of the Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa. Four of the chefs from HFWF’s Hot Lava, Hotter Cuisine event spoke to us about what they hope for guests to experience at this redhot evening, and how each plan to bring their own unique culinary point of view to the stunning Kohala Coast.

Bruce Bromberg

What brought you out to the Big Island? What made you want to stay? I came out about three years ago to do a James Beard Celebrity Chef Dinner at the Mauna Lani, and basically when we got off the plane we thought, this place is pretty amazing, and we figured it would be part of our lives one way or another. And one thing led to another—here we are. We thought this was how we wanted to raise our daughter. I lived in New York for 20 years, then Vegas for four years when we opened a restaurant there. But there’s so much happening here, with such a connection to the earth and such respect for tradition. All these things are qualities that my wife and I deem important. I’m on planes frequently; I go back to the mainland once a month and do the loop—Las Vegas, then New York, and then back to Big Island. What is it about the Hawaiian culture and their food that draws you to Hawaiÿi, and the Big Island in particular? What I was most impressed with was the purity of the ingredients here. I remember having a conversation three years ago when I was here with Jonathan Waxman and Nancy Silverton, standing at a farm in Waimea. I was really impressed with the fact that there were world-class ingredients on this island that rivaled France and Italy, with such an attention to harvesting and growing. There’s a renewed interest in doing all these things. This island had been monocropping

for many years and went away from that diversity when they were growing pineapple and sugar cane. Now that those crops moved off island, there’s a real push to bring that diversity back. One of the things I did not realize is just how big the agricultural community is here. It’s interesting to see these really great small farms, growing so many diverse products by passionate people. It’s flourishing now. That really drew me here, being a part of that renaissance where the island could be sustainable, support itself and the farmers, and to see what it could be—raising all the different animals and the potential to grow so much here is exciting. There’s a burgeoning food culture—while it’s only at the beginning, it’s inspiring from my perspective as a chef. Here, it’s really easy to connect with the farmers and the culture and visit the various markets, which makes it really easy to be a part of the process. Everyone is very open, very welcoming; it’s such a central force of the Hawaiian culture. Their respect for land, culture, tradition, and family is very evident. Those are just 10 different things that resonate super strongly with me and my family and why we chose to relocate. People think, oh, you can’t do that, then they do it, and everyone latches onto it. I think that’s how a food culture grows. It’s great to see people’s efforts being rewarded. I feel like there’s a transformation of playing just to the tourists’ tastes—this real honest, and true agricultural and culinary community is challenging that. What is your favorite ingredient from Hawaiÿi that you wish you had access to while cooking/ baking on the mainland? I think my favorite ingredient is, well, I have a lot. I have a garden at my house in Puakö, so anything that comes out of it is great since I used to live in Manhattan and Vegas and had no potential to grow anything. One thing I just had no idea how great was is hearts of palm, to just eat a real heart of a

palm that’s the size of a baseball bat. They are spectacular fresh, or you could roast them or grill them. I had always had them frozen or out of a can, and I always liked them. But then I had a revelation when I took the first bite out of a fresh one—it was like, this can’t be the same vegetable! In Waipiÿo, when I pulled watercress straight out of the water, again, it was such a different product that I just couldn’t get on the mainland. I realized how much potential this island has—and it’s just at the tip, just starting the climb. What was your favorite dish that you had in Hawai’i that you had never experienced in any other setting? What was so special about it? My first loco moco experience was interesting. I first had it at the Hawaiian Style Cafe in Waimea. This monstrosity of a dish showed up on my plate and it was eyeopening. It was so honest and so great, like biscuits and gravy you would find at a truck strop driving through the South. I think one of the best things I had never had before is ‘opihi, the mollusk that you can get on the coast. Of course, anything fresh out of the ocean is just fantastic. But I remember when a neighbor first served us the ‘opihi, we worked at getting them out of the shells for hours. That was one of the special things that really endeared me to this place. Through the eyes of the chef, even if I don’t do it everyday, I just think to myself that I can go out to the rocks with my clam knife, work them off the rock, and get them everyday. That idea is so romantic and endearing. Which chefs from Hawaiÿi do you find to be the most innovative? I don’t really know the answer to that. I’ve been inspired by a lot of people. There’s a lot of passionate people on this island, and I feel like Oÿahu is ahead of the Big Island. But it has evolved, and you’re starting to see it in Kona and up the Kohala Coast. Allen Hess at Mai Grille is one of those people who have inspired me through his 73

Pictured, clockwise: Alan Wong & Roy Yamaguchi, Bruce Bromberg, Michelle Bernstein, Hubert Keller.

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passion for all local ingredients; and he does a really great job. He makes his own bacon, hunts his own pigs, and is really tied into the culinary world. My connection here on the Big Island is through his passion. His family took us to their land, and that really endeared me to Waipi‘o where we walked around picking things, and pulling things out of the water. I learned so much that day—20 things I had never seen before in just one day! He has a really interesting take on everything, and it’s that passion that’s going to lead to great things here on the Big Island.

PHOTO COURTESY: (OPPOSITE TOP RIGHT) ERIK KABIK; (OTHERS) HFWF

What is the typical process you go through when coming up with a dish for a special event like Hot Lava, Hotter Cuisine? I guess I think a little bit about the concept of the event. The hot lava plays into that. I don’t try to impose a dish on a place; I let the place guide the dish. We’ve been having so much fun cooking out of our garden. You have to get in your head about what’s going to be ripe at the event, and I’ve been talking with people who grow keiki cucumbers, Japanese cucumbers, and Waimea tomatoes. You’re constantly searching for new flavors, and playing around that you represent the island for those who are visiting. Why did you start cooking for a profession? It was really my father. He was a lawyer, but was a severely obsessed Francophile. He went abroad at 19, and then went back every year for 61 years. He would rent houses throughout the south of France, and we spent our summers in Provence. And every weekend trip to the beach in New England, every trip to Vermont, there were restaurants that had to be visited, and there were dishes that had to be ordered. Our lives were peppered with culinary adventure. This resonated with us (brother Eric, also part of the Bromberg Bros. empire). Eric is older, and went to become a chef first. I got him a Benihana costume for myhawaiitraveler.com

his birthday one year. We were obsessed with the art of cooking and theater of cooking. We would think, wouldn’t it be cool to have our own Benihana, or our own fun restaurant to go to, or our own fondue place? It’s always been at our core, and always been part of our families’ experience that it was such a natural progression for my brother and I to become chefs.

exciting thing for the Big Island. I think the Big Island should be a focus of Hawaiÿi Food & Wine Festivals for the future—there’s so much exciting stuff happening on this island. It will be a leader on how food transpires and the evolution that it takes, and it’s really exciting that we’ll be able to showcase what the Big Island has to offer at the Hot Lava event.

What is the culinary trend that drives you crazy? I think it’s trying to be all the rage, and in the moment, and just kind of following trends is annoying to me. I feel like there’s just an honesty in food that never goes away, that no matter what else happens, there’s an honesty that prevails in the end. In a sense, it’s just that the basics of cuisine get overlooked a lot. Everyone just tries to jump to the next trend—oh, let’s make this, let’s make that—that there’s a void sometimes. I think it stems from the competition-cooking craze that has numbed us to everything, that the more ridiculous is better. It has created an entire group, I won’t say a generation because there’s extremely talented people coming up, but there’s a group that doesn’t get it, and doesn’t see value in the basics and truly understanding how to cook, and play to people’s egos in the kitchen instead of the customer. And I get frustrated when I go out to eat and I wonder what they’re trying to achieve at the end of the day. Let’s go back to the basics.

Hubert Keller

If you were stranded on a remote island alone with only three ingredients, what would they be? Mustard, mushrooms, and onions. Those are the bases of an awful lot of dishes. If those were the only three ingredients on the island though, I’d be in a lot of trouble. But with these three as bases, they would make some good bases for just about everything. Is there anything else you would want people to know about HFWF’s Hot Lava, Hotter Cuisine? I think that this event is just an

How long have you been coming to Hawaiÿi? Since the first year of the HFWF, so this is the sixth year. It’s my favorite, such an amazing event, but I’ve been coming to Hawaiÿi many, many years, for maybe 25 years at least, and participated in many other events, but I think the first thing for me at least when the word Hawaiÿi comes up is the amazing Hawaiian hospitality. We are totally always welcome, and I think it’s also the culture itself, which has some fascinating customs, between music, legends, values, almost is like, coming from Alsace, we have the same customs, from the traditions to the values, and great gastronomy. What is it about the Hawaiian culture and their food that draws you to Hawaiÿi, and the Big Island in particular? I’ve been here two times. When it comes to the Big Island, I was amazed the first time I came with my wife of the different climates, from the valley of Waipi‘o with the black sand beach, and then to Hilo, and to see the crater, and then we drove more up in the mountains. My wife, Chantal, is from Alsace as well, maybe it’s funny what I’m saying, but we thought we were back home with the rolling hills and all the cows, it’s an entirely different scenery. We love it, and are happy to return. It’s amazing everything what the farmers have done over the last 20 years. The first time we went to the Big Island, we went with Alan Wong, and we went to a farm, very informal, and we did a little tour, and one of the gentlemen, one of the farmers, he asked, Do you

know what this is? And even after asking many chefs, he says you’re one of the first chefs who identified it [asparagus] right away, because I grew up with asparagus fields in Alsace. The reason with my wife we go there [France] quite often, the new season of the show, Secrets of a Chef, after the single show we did on Alsace, that between people investing in the show, and the response people had on TV, we thought we should go more on the road. So, we got more budget. Some of the show is still shot in a studio in Las Vegas, but some of it is shot in my favorite cities around the world. We did Rio, then next is Paris in November, and next year it will be Hawaiÿi. The idea is not to show the best hotels or the best dishes, but the secrets. We want to show where chefs eat out late, or the best street food, but not the ones filled with tourists. I have good friends in Hawaiÿi and I think we can show people on the mainland what the food is and what farmers are doing. I don’t think people realize what is happening in Hawaiÿi’s food scene yet—I would love to show that and visit some farms. Rebuilding the ponds from the old, old times, I was with these young, young guys, and I was fascinated to see them, and doing this stuff on their own. It is so much deeper, and so more beautiful than people can imagine. What is your favorite ingredient from Hawaiÿi that you wish you had access to while cooking/ baking on the mainland? My favorite ingredient, there are many, but the one that comes to mind in particular is nutmeg and mace, that little colorful net that grows around the nut. I think it was 2-3 years ago when we did the grand dinner at Halekulani; I saw that the nutmeg was grown on the Big Island. The couple, Leslie and Michael from Wailea Agricultural Group, has been growing heart of palm forever, and she showed me the nutmeg. I thought, of course I want to cook with it, and make a sauce with it. And I want to have a whole nutmeg displayed in front 75

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of each guest; I bet many people won’t know what it is because we never have the opportunity to see a nutmeg like that—and it’s so beautiful. And, of course, I did it and it was amazing. The mace is so aromatic; it’s like two spices in one fruit. We could get the nutmeg, but we couldn’t get the mace to the mainland. I think that’s almost sad because it was just another spice, which to a chef, it’s very rare to get access; when you see it on the farm to see it fresh like that, it’s just beautiful. Even our customers would love to see a nutmeg like that, they are only used to seeing it in a supermarket in a container—it doesn’t speak to itself.

PHOTO COURTESY: HUBERT KELLER BY JON ESTRADA

Which chefs from Hawaiÿi do you find to be the most innovative? I would rather not answer that question since there are so many good chefs in Hawaiÿi. What should guests look for from you at this upcoming event? What kinds of ingredients are you hoping to use or highlight throughout your dish? I think what people can expect from coming to the dinner is a symphony that is composed by a handful of chefs—giving us the local ingredients, and letting us transform them, and turn it into an amazing experience—a couple of chefs coming together, and each one transforms their ingredient, and here it is. Each chef has their own style, and own way of presenting it. It will be interesting. It’s a collaboration when these dinners are happening; we send in a couple of suggestions, several chefs and several courses, and they asked me to go in the direction of the main course and to do beef. When we do these events, the way I put up an item, first of all geographically, where we’re located, I try to find out where the place is, where we do it, the season, and local ingredients, and also with the chefs I’m working with, and that’s the guideline for the dish. myhawaiitraveler.com

Hawaiÿi reminds me of California: you can be very creative; there’s no restriction because everything grows, everything is there; and you can find anything, and with seafood, it’s endless. In California, early, early on when I came here, you can find everything. It’s like a dreamland for a chef. That’s a long time ago, in ‘82, I could feel something is happening here, but it was underground, but today is changed. Now, Hawaiÿi is the same thing. Each time I go back, put a menu together, those are the ingredients. You’re not pulled off by anything— it’s exciting. What is the typical process you go through when coming up with a dish for an event like Hot Lava? If they are giving me the beef, then I think which kind of cut, and how to do it. Then I think, here I want to present a combination, roasting the filets, and the braising technique of the beef cheek. People are familiar now with beef cheek, but people are still surprised how good it tastes. I still want to share something on the same plate that used to be for poor people, that it can be as good as a high-end product like the filet. I will be using the mace infused in red wine sauce, to give that little flavor, but nutmeg is a powerful flavor that it can be overwhelming. You have to put just a little bit, like with mashed potatoes—if you put the right amount of nutmeg in the mashed potato, it’s delicious; but if you put a little too much, then it [nutmeg] comes out, it [potatoes] kind of gets lost. If you could have dinner with three people, who would they be and why? One would be Napoleon because I’m a huge fan and collector of Napoleon items, and I would love to have that gentleman at the table. And, in a completely other direction, Angelina Jolie—she is more than an outstanding actress, she is the ultimate avatar of

fantasies. But I don’t know if she eats a lot, she’s very skinny. But, I would be very impressed if she did. And David Guetta—I love music, and he’s like an amazing DJ, but he also loves to eat, so he would be a perfect companion at that table. A lot of interesting characters! Why did you start cooking for a profession? I grew up in a patisserie. My brother became a pastry chef, and when you grow up like that you think, I want to be a pastry chef as well. I was lucky to be able to enter L’Auberge de L’ill, and they only took one apprentice a year. I would be looking into the kitchen, and the chefs noticed what was happening over there, and that I was showing interest; and it became a natural thing when they asked me to come into the kitchen. It happened almost naturally—and, then I took off—and even though I was working in the kitchen, I still loved pastries. What is the one culinary trend that drives you crazy? I think I have two of them, maybe not driving me crazy, but foam, that’s something that when the technique of the foam started, it was great idea. It’s still a great idea; but [the impression now is] you almost go from fast food to upscale with foam. It was déjà vu—at first it was exciting, but now it’s time to move onto something else. If I get it on a dish, I think it’s delicious, it’s great; but it feels like it’s a lack of ideas from the chef. And the other one, probably not everyone will agree with me, is using salt in dessert. It became a fashion with salted caramel, and now it’s on every restaurant menu—everyone has a dessert with salt in it. I don’t disagree with it, but I do think the pastry chef has to have a light, light hand with the salt. I think, now I will be turned off when I see chocolate with salt. They used to use the salt like fleur de sel, but one little crystal just

so it excites your palate and the chocolate or caramel takes over. But now, they put salt in it like they used to put sugar on it, and I think that’s one trend they need to tune it down a little bit. It works, but half to three fourths of the time, it’s too salty. You can have that little explosion that hits your palate, and that’s what it was designed for, and now they season with it too much. If you were stranded on a remote island alone with only three ingredients, what would they be? I should say to be on the healthy side, chia seed, or flax seed, or goji berry, but if I would be on an island, it would be an endless supply of caviar, not because it’s expensive, but because I love it; I love it over foie gras. Vanilla ice cream, I eat that almost everyday, made with real vanilla beans. And bread, an endless supply of bread. Is there anything else you would like people to know about this upcoming event? Mostly, first of all, I’m very excited to be invited again. I’m very thrilled about that, and very appreciative; it’s always one of the highlights of the year when I come back. Everyone is so welcoming, and I love working with the different chefs. I think that’s it’s a wellorganized event. When I did it the first year, I was hoping to be invited a second time. As chefs, we do lots of events, especially when you do first of a kind [like HFWF’s first year], you have to walk on eggshells, because it’s usually disorganized, but the second year is usually okay. But for this event’s first year, we, as chefs in general, we had an impression, that wow, this is so organized; we’ve been taken care of so well; they take time to take care of the chefs. When I said in the beginning about the hospitality, you feel welcome, where you can tell, people put lots of effort into making sure that everything just works.

What is it about the Hawaiian culture and their food that draws you to Hawaiÿi, and the Big Island in particular? The Hawaiian culture is just beautiful, relaxing, bright, colorful and delicious. How can I not be drawn in? There is nothing that excites my family and I more than coming back to Hawaiÿi every year. It is a culture and a way of life I would like to make part of our every day. What is your favorite ingredient from Hawaiÿi that you wish you had access to while cooking on the mainland? There are so many I love. If I had to choose, I suppose ÿöpakapaka (Hawaiian pink snapper) and taro would be my favorite. What was your favorite dish that you had in Hawaiÿi that you had never experienced in any other setting? What was so special about it? Banana Macadamia Pancakes, side of Portuguese sausage. I’ve never put anything better in my mouth—I giggled my way through breakfast. Tied with Sam Choy’s salmon poke—OMG. Which chefs from Hawaiÿi do you find to be the most innovative? Alan Wong, Sam Choy, Roy 78

Yamaguchi, Michelle Karr-Ueoka and Wade Ueoka, Lee Anne Wong. What should guests look from you at this upcoming event? Creating fun new dishes with the best Hawaiian ingredients, always seafood-inspired, and making it my way—Latin flavors, vibrant colors. What is the typical process you go through when coming up with a dish for an event like Hot Lava, Hotter Cuisine? My inspiration is through Hawaiian ingredients. I take a look at the list the festival sends and immediately begin coming up with dishes from whatever looks fun and challenging! I always do things I’ve never done before. If you could have dinner with three people, who would they be and why? My husband David, because I adore him and love to eat with him and cook for him; Jacques Pépin because he is one of the loveliest people I’ve ever met; Amy Schumer, why not. Why did you start cooking for a profession? I was hoping to combine cooking with nutrition, but I fell in love with the kitchen and the heat and the chaos.

What is the culinary trend that drives you crazy? Good crazy—Korean food. Bad crazy—bacon on everything.

Tae-Hwan Ryu

What is your favorite ingredient from Hawaiÿi that you wish you had access to back home? The seafood and local herbs. Which chefs from Hawaiÿi do you find to be the most innovative? Roy Yamaguchi and Alan Wong. What should guests look from you at this upcoming event? I will show them unique technique, as a Ryunique chef Tae Hwan Ryu, and I want to use abalone with Korean touch. What is the typical process you go through when coming up with a dish for an event? I think perfect process brings perfect result, so I always make sure that every step is done perfectly for the ideal dish. Why did you start cooking for a profession? Actually, I wanted to be an artist, but my father recommended to be a chef, so I started cooking. What inspires you in the kitchen? I like local seafood personally. So whenever I see super fresh

and clean ingredients throughout traveling, I bring them to my kitchen and make a new dish. Recently, I created a new dish named Boneless. Jeju mackerel is the main ingredient, and I got the inspiration from my recent visit to Jeju Island. This dish makes me really excited. If you were stranded on a remote island alone with only three ingredients, what would they be? Butter, soy sauce, and eggs. These ingredients have lots of umami (savoriness), which highlights the taste of the main ingredient.

Hawaiÿi Food & Wine Festival’s Hot Lava, Hotter Cuisine is at the beautiful Hilton Waikoloa Village on Saturday, October 22nd, from 6pm until 9pm. General admission starts at $250. VIP access is available for $500, or for those purchasing tickets with their First Hawaiian Bank MasterCard, guests will receive VIP access for $250. This VIP access includes a 5pm cocktail reception and reserved seating at the event. For more information, visit: hawaiifoodandwinefestival. com/schedule/day-4-saturdayoctober-22-2016/hot-lava-hottercuisine. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (THIS PAGE) HFWF; (OPPOSITE) FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALĀLAI

Michelle Bernstein

Chef Fest

For resident and visiting foodies on island November 9-12, another spectacular event hosts a different group of distinguished culinary stars. Chef Fest, an intimate gastronomic experience served beachfront at the stunning Four Seasons Resort Hualälai, is too tempting to be missed. Throughout Chef Fest, guests rub shoulders and sample the flavors of a new batch of world-class chefs. Featuring a series of high-profile dinners, as well as chef-led interactive cooking classes, guests will savor the flavors of these unrivaled chefs over the course of some indulgent and exciting evenings. And because each event is priced separately, guests are able to curate the ultimate personal culinary experience.

myhawaiitraveler.com

Several premier chefs include Ludo Lefebvre of Los Angeles’ Trois Mec and Petit Trois, and TV’s The Taste; and Seamus Mullen of New York City’s Tertulia and El Colmado, and a finalist on TV’s The Next Iron Chef. Other phenomenal chefs include New York City’s George Mendes of Aldea and Lupulo; Eater LA’s Chef of the Year Jessica Koslow of Sqirl; San Francisco’s Matthew Accarrino of SPQR; Chris Hastings of Birmingham, Alabama’s Hot and Hot Fish Club; Four Seasons Resort Hualälai’s very own Massimo Falsini; Executive Chef of Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles Cyrille Pannier; and Executive Chef Christof Syré of Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas.

Seamus Mullen

What is it about the Hawaiian culture and their food that draws you to Hawaiÿi, and the Big Island in particular? I love the intimate proximity to nature that you feel the moment you step off the plane and onto the ground in Hawaiÿi. There is something about the soil, the sun, the rain that produces some of the most delicious produce I’ve ever tasted. I think because Hawaiÿi has always been so isolated, the reverence for food is really palpable. Ingredients are celebrated and the culture of coming together over food is infectious.

this anywhere else and even if you could, you wouldn’t be able to replicate the setting!

on my culinary background and experience to think of how to best celebrate that ingredient.

Which chefs from Hawaiÿi do you find to be the most innovative? I really admire the cooking of Chef Allen Hess of Mai Grille. I’ve eaten at The CanoeHouse several times when he was there and the food was outstanding, I haven’t been to his new place yet, but I’m really looking forward to it. Of course, Chef Massimo Falsini does amazing stuff at the Four Seasons—I love his approach to food and how much he has done to celebrate the bounty of the Big Island. On Oÿahu, I love the cooking of Chef Jon Matsubara—he and I worked together many years ago at Tabla under Chef Floyd Cardoz in New York City before he decided to head home to Hawaiÿi.

If you could have dinner with three people, who would they be and why? The First Lady, Michelle Obama: I’m a huge fan of hers; I think she has done so much for this country socially, politically, ethically and consciously. I’d love to have the opportunity to share a meal with her. Nelson Mandela: Obviously, a huge hero—I think it would be amazing to share a meal with someone who was so instrumental to social justice and change and someone who went so many years without a decent meal and then to be able to share one with him. John Oliver, host of Last Week Tonight: I think he’s a great voice of criticism for our generation. He champions social issues, and he’s ruthlessly funny and seems like a fun guy to have dinner with. I think with FLOTUS and Mandela it could be a pretty heavy dinner, having John Oliver could help soften it a bit.

What is your favorite ingredient from Hawaiÿi that you wish you had access to while cooking on the mainland? Hands down, fresh hearts of palm. I love them grilled, raw, pickled, steamed, you name it. I can’t get enough!

What should guests look for from you at this upcoming event? I love to cook outside and to cook on the beach. You can usually find me whipping up a huge seafood paella on Friday night right at the water’s edge! I love using all the incredible seafood that I simply can’t get here in NYC.

What was your favorite dish that you had in Hawaiÿi that you had never experienced in any other setting? Kälua pig. I mean, eating a slowroasted, macadamia-nut-fed pig? Nothing can compare! It would be virtually impossible to replicate

What is the typical process you go through when coming up with a dish for an event like Chef Fest? I always start with the ingredient first. I think about how I can best exemplify and celebrate the ingredient, and then I draw

Why did you start cooking for a profession? I’ve always loved cooking, my grandmother started cooking with me when I was very young and taught me the fundamentals of the kitchen. When I graduated from college with no idea what to do with myself, she was the one that told me that I should cook, that I was always happiest when I was cooking for other people.

What is the one culinary trend that drives you crazy? I’m not a fan of unhealthy food. So that means all the over-the-top cakes and donuts, the sugar and carb-heavy garbage that clogs up so much of our food TV. I like good, clean, nutritious and delicious food.

Ludo Lefebvre

What is it about the Hawaiian culture and their food that draws you to Hawaiÿi, and the Big Island in particular? I fell in love with Hawaiÿi the first time I stepped foot on the islands. It is truly like they say, you are stepping into paradise. The relaxed lifestyle and the big hearts of the native people is a culture like none other. The Big Island is so amazing because you can experience so many different climate zones. You can be grilling some fish on the beach in your shorts and the next day need a ski jacket to go to the top of the mountain. It is pretty cool. What is your favorite ingredient from Hawaiÿi that you wish you had access to while cooking on the mainland? I have worked with onaga (Hawaiian red snapper) on previous trips to the islands. You can, of course, get any ingredient anywhere in the world these days with FedEx, but there is nothing that compares to onaga pulled straight from the Hawaiian waters!

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP RIGHT) LIONEL DELUY; (TOP LT/OPPOSITE) FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALALAI

Chefs Ludo Lefebvre and Seamus Mullen share their affinity for Hawaiian cuisine, as well as what they are most looking forward to at this incomparable food and wine event.

What was your favorite dish that you had in Hawaiÿi that you had never experienced in any other setting? What was so special about it? Do Hawaiian pancakes count? Just kidding. The one dish I will always remember is the lobster bisque with pineapple from Mama’s Fish House on Maui. You can get lobster bisque in many places, but not like this one. My mouth is watering just thinking about it. What should guests look from you at this upcoming event? Lots of fresh fish for sure. Not sure about dishes at this point, but it definitely will be local ingredients with my Ludo twists! What is the typical process you go through when coming up with a dish for an event like Chef Fest? It is most important that I use the most fresh local ingredients. There is no point in shipping over a bunch of ingredients from the mainland when Hawaiÿi has such an abundance of fresh fish, fruits, spices, etc. I will see what is in season and available, and go from there. Of course, I will put my ‘twist’ on things. If you could have dinner with three people, who would they be and why? Right now, that would be my wife and kids. I have been traveling so much lately and I miss our family mealtime. Why did you start cooking for a profession? I was a delinquent when I was a kid, so my dad gave me three choices when I was 13: a cook, a barber or a mechanic. I loved to eat, so a cook it was. Fortunately it turned out that I had a passion and undiscovered natural talent. What is the one culinary trend that drives you crazy? Farm to table. Isn’t this the way we have always cooked? Or did the culinary world suddenly stop cooking from cans and frozen food and discover fresh food?

Chef Fest takes place at Four Seasons Resort Hualälai from November 9-12. A variety of events are scheduled, each available to be purchased separately, including a grand tasting, receptions and beach cookouts, a outrigger canoe and stand-up paddleboard session, chef-led interactive cooking classes, as well as a rare wine tasting session of BOND Estate wines. Four Seasons Resort Hualälai offers Chef Fest packages. For more information, visit foodandwinehualalai.com.

Brewing

Aloha WORDS XX

AWARD-WINNING BEERS AROUND THE BIG ISLAND

WORDS EKUA IMPRAIM

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

You’ve had a long, active day on the Big Island. Maybe you were enjoying the crystal clear water, snorkeling, kayaking, or bodyboarding. Maybe you just finished a long, hot hike across a lava field or through a verdant valley on the Hämäkua Coast. Or, maybe you were just simply relaxing on the beach all day. Regardless, it’s time to unwind—or unwind some more. It’s time for a beer, preferably something ice cold, flavorful, and inspired by the land you’ve been exploring—something that evokes the ambiance of the Big Island. You’re in great luck. Big Island Brewhaus, Hawaiÿi Nui and Mehana Brewing Company, and Kona Brewing Company await, ready to satisfy your thirst for local beer.

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TASTE

Big Island Brewhaus In the misty highlands of Waimea on the northern side of the island, Big Island Brewhaus offers multiple award-winning beers, good food, and live music in a cozy and homey space. Tom Kerns is the founder and chief brewer, and he has nearly three decades of brewing experience under his belt. After developing a passion for flavorful beer while living in Germany in the 1980s, Tom began home brewing in 1988. By 1992, he turned his hobby into a career at the noted McMenamins Breweries in Oregon. After a yearlong stint at a brewery in the Philippines in 1996, he opened Fish & Game Brewing Company in Maui. Under new ownership, it eventually became Maui Brewing Company, and Tom was the mastermind behind some of its most popular beers. The first sparks of Big Island Brewhaus came in 2008 when Tom and his wife, Jayne, purchased the restaurant Tako Taco Taqueria in Waimea. They worked on the brewery while operating the restaurant, and it officially became a brewpub in 2011. At Big Island Brewhaus, there is a hefty selection of mainstay beers including the very popular White Mountain Porter and Overboard IPA. The menu also includes a changing list of limited release beers such as the seasonal Red Sea of Cacao, a beer infused with a delicious combination of red sea salt, molasses, pink peppercorns, and of course, Hawaiian cacao. If you can’t decide between the 15 or more beers available on any given day, there’s an option to get a sampler and try up to five beers. Big Island Brewhaus is known for tasty and inventive beer, but it is equally popular as an eatery and gathering space in Waimea. While the restaurant’s menu has a heavy Mexican influence, it has expanded to serve food with a variety of international influences and places an emphasis on using locally-sourced ingredients. On Thursdays, Fridays, and every other Tuesday, there are open mic nights or live music performances. The allaround atmosphere of Big Island Brewhaus offers a hearty local and community-oriented experience in Waimea that shouldn’t be missed. Big Island Brewhaus is located at 64-1066 Mämalahoa HWY in Kamuela. They are open Sundays noon to 8pm, Monday thru Saturday 11am to 8:30pm. Call (808) 887-1717 or visit bigislandbrewhaus.com. 84

Hawai‘i Nui Brewing Company and Mehana Brewery Company Located in Hilo, Hawaiÿi Nui and Mehana began as separate companies, and joined forces in 2009. Mehana’s story goes back to Katsuichi Shindo, a Japanese immigrant who established a company called Hilo Soda Works in the early 1920s. In the 1990s, Calvin and Dustin Shindo, the grandson and great grandson of Katsuichi respectively, shifted the family beverage business from soda to beer after Dustin was inspired by Washington’s craft beer scene as a college student. Mehana began with two beers, and now has five beers to appeal to a variety of palates: Mauna Kea Pale Ale, Volcano Red Ale, Humpback Lager, Hawaiian Crow Porter, and Tsunami IPA. Hawaiÿi Nui’s shorter history has roots in Kauaÿi. The company was formed by Andrew Baker, Keith Kinsey, and Nina Lytton in 2007 to acquire Keoki Brewing Company, which was located in Lïhuÿe at the time. Hawaiÿi Nui’s Kauaÿi Golden Ale and Sunset Amber Ale are the original beers from Keoki. The Southern Cross Belgian Style Double Red Ale and the awardwinning Hapa Brown Ale were added as the company evolved. In 2014, Hawaiÿi Nui and Mehana came under the ownership of DeMare Enterprises and they shifted from bottles to cans. While this was a big change given Mehana’s nearly 100-year connection to bottling via the Shindo family, the switch to cans increased production and ultimately created a more environmentally friendly product. All Hawaiÿi Nui and Mehana beers are made on site in Hilo, and the company prides itself on the fact that its beer is made with water from the Waiäkea Watershed on Mauna Loa. Hawaiÿi Nui and Mehana have a small tasting room where you can sample their brews for free, learn more about each beer, and buy a pack of beer or growler to go. The tasting room is open on afternoons from Monday to Saturday, but closed on Sundays when they have “gone fishing.” For more information on Mehana Brewing Company, visit mehanabrewing.com or call (808) 934-8211. For Hawaiÿi Nui Brewing Company, visit hawaiinuibrewing.com or call (808) 934-8211. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP) CHRIS BERINGER; (MID/BOTTOM) KONA BREWING CO.; (OPPOSITE) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM

Kona Brewing Company Kona Brewing Company is the largest and most wellknown of the Big Island breweries. It was founded by Cameron Healy, who is also the creator of Kettle Chips, and his son, Spoon Khalsa. Originally from Portland, Oregon, the duo came to Kona and began the brewery in 1994. They released their first beer on Valentine’s Day in 1995 and the brewery has been growing ever since. Kona Brewing offers two daily tours of its facilities, which can fill up quickly, so advance reservations are recommended. On the tour, you’ll get an overview of Kona Brewing’s history as well as its brewing process and production. Of course most people’s favorite part of the tour is the opportunity to sample four beers at the end. Beyond the tour, the brewpub is home to one of Kona’s most popular restaurants, and is known for its creative pizzas. It is a Certified Green Restaurant, and a lot of thought has been put into sustainability and reusing materials wherever possible. The benches and plant containers you see as you enter the restaurant are made from recycled materials. Spent grain is given to local cattle ranchers or used in the dough for the restaurant’s pizzas and breads. In 2010, Kona Brewing Company greatly expanded its production and distribution when it joined the Craft Brew Alliance. It will continue to expand when it moves its Kona headquarters down the street to a new location with a higher production capacity in 2018. But even as brews like Longboard Lager and Big Wave Golden Ale begin to become more commonplace, much of what you’ll find at the brewpub in Kona is hard to come by elsewhere. In Kona, all year long you can get a pint of their seasonal beers such as Koko Brown Nut Brown Ale, which is brewed with toasted coconut. You will also find draft-only specialty beers like the Hula Hefeweizen, which evokes the aroma and flavor of bananas. There are limited release beers available only at the brewpub, and on the first and third Friday of each month, they host Firkin Fridays where a small unique batch of beer is released at 5pm and sold until it’s gone. Like the other two breweries, Kona Brewing also sells beer to take away. Their growlers can keep beer fresh for 24 hours without refrigeration, so whether you’re heading home or on your way to the beach for a Kona sunset, you can take what Kona Brewing refers to as “Liquid Aloha” with you wherever you go next. Kona Brewing Company is located at 74-5612 Pawai Place in Kona. The pub is open daily from 11am to 10pm. The Growler Shack is open daily at 11:30am; tours are offered daily at 10:30am and 3pm. Call (808) 334-2739 or visit konabrewingco.com. myhawaiitraveler.com

Big Island's

SEAFOOD BOUNTY LIVE, FRESH AND SUSTAINABLE MAINE LOBSTERS, DUNGENESS CRABS, LOCAL FISH AND SO MUCH MORE WORDS ANDREW WALSH IMAGES KIRK AEDER

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

he sun is setting low on the horizon, the waves are calming down, and the sky and water are peacefully transitioning from day into night. It’s the perfect time to gather your ‘ohana (family and friends) and head to the shoreline for another serene Hawaiian beach cookout. Fire up the grill, lay out the fixings, and kick back to a medley of Bruddah Iz while the keiki (kids) run around, and the grill masters lay out the days catch and organize the growing communal bounty. Among the poi, chicken long rice, and kälua pork, it’s usual for someone to have also bought (or caught) some ono (wahoo) or ‘ahi (Hawaiian tuna). But, not today. This feast is different, it’s a mix of fresh Maine lobster, abalone, ogo seaweed, Kampachi, butterfish and moi (threadfish)—all found surprisingly right here on the island. Say what? That’s right, all that seafood is grown or raised just south of the Kona airport, and can be the envy of your next cookout. Just off the Queen Kaÿahumanu Highway (HWY 19), built atop the black pähoehoe (smooth) basaltic lava left over after the 1801 Hu‘ehu‘e lava flow from Hualälai, myhawaiitraveler.com

a large array of solar panels marks the seaward entrance to the Natural Energy Laboratory of Hawaii Authority, known locally as NELHA. Tasked with the goals of growing sustainable industries using sunshine, seawater and ingenuity, NELHA is home to many of the island’s most sustainable food and energy businesses. They range from companies bottling desalinized deep seawater and Ocean Thermal Energy Conversion (OTEC) plants, to delicious oyster aquaculture and marine algae-to-biofuel farms. At the remote end of Keähole Point, the tip of NELHA’s 877 acres, I had the good fortune to work at one such company, the land-based hatchery of Blue Ocean Mariculture (BOM, a sustainable open-ocean aquaculture farm at NELHA). A favorite part of most days was simply driving down the NELHA road passing all of these innovative businesses, education centers, or organizations, and feeling as though I was part of a collaborative effort working to push these much-needed technologies and sustainable practices into the modern mainstream. In fact, I would regularly visit many of the labs, grow-out facilities, 87

"Over 80% of the U.S. seafood supply is imported. . ."

or offices during my regular workday and borrow tools, a spare tank of oxygen, or some hard to find PVC fitting needed for our nursery tanks. Like any island community, and in particular the unique group of NELHA businesses, we tried to help each other out when the need arose. It was during one such visit that I first discovered Kona Cold Lobsters (KCL), an unassuming distribution and holding facility I had passed numerous times while working at NELHA’s lab, but never guessing just how much was happening behind their doors. What I found was a thriving business with friendly staff and managers selling delicious seafood. If I remember, what brought me there on that particular day was a broken oxygen flow valve from one of our large blue transport containers stacked on the back of an oversized flatbed truck on its way to the ocean. To transport the juvenile Kampachi (Seriola rivoliana—a native Almaco jack called kähala) from the nursery tanks to the open ocean aquaculture pens offshore of the airport, we moved them via flatbed loaded with 10 of these large containers representing one year of hard work and investment. A failure of an oxygen flow valve during the ride meant thousands and thousands of 88

fish could be lost. So, it was with great relief that we were able to borrow one. Beyond not getting fired for killing a year’s worth of my farm’s investment, I also had discovered a new source of fresh seafood for my next cookout. Upon entering Kona Cold Lobsters’ gates, it’s apparent that fresh seafood abounds, as a series of shallow seawater holding bays run the length of the establishment. Crawling around within them are Maine lobster, Dungeness crab, and whatever else is on the menu. The menu is literally a big giant white board on the wall with prices and seafood choices available that day for order and delivery. Although most people won’t get the full tour of the facilities, as any good aquaculture farm has strict bio-security protocols, many other sustainable seafood choices can be found being packaged and delivered from behind the scenes at KCL. These include Manila clams, PEI mussels, Pacific oysters and Kona abalone as well as three local finfish: Kampachi (from BOM), moi, and butterfish. What makes all of this possible is the unique setting of NELHA. Maine lobster and Dungeness crab have no earthly business in the waters around Hawaiÿi, but the pathogen-free deep BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

". . . and over 80% of wild stocks are overexploited."

(43ºF, 2,000-ft) seawater pumped from the waters off Keähole Point is an ideal medium for holding the sustainably caught Atlantic lobster and West Coast crab on their way to distributors around the world. In addition, the quality of the deep seawater is considered extremely pure and nutrient rich, allowing it to serve the needs of a variety of different companies including many of the aquaculture or bio-based NELHA farms. This deep seawater is so pure it is considered unaffected by any human influence and is rated Class AA by the Hawaii State Department of Health. Over 80% of the U.S. seafood supply is imported from other countries and over 80% of wild stocks are overexploited; offering a high-value, sustainably grown seafood available year-round is a win-win for the environment, economy, and our taste buds. Particularly, there is the added benefit of reducing pressures on local seafood that has been overfished. Hawaiÿi, although significantly impacted by much of the same environmental degradation that occurs throughout the world, has become an excellent example of technologies and practices that can be implemented to address these issues. In many ways, Hawaiÿi is ideally suited for this purpose as the “island mentality” of selfmyhawaiitraveler.com

reliance, resource scarcity, and community-focused resource management are cornerstones in solving the global issues, as the Earth is basically a big island with dwindling resources. Although there is always room for improvement, NELHA and the businesses it supports, such as KCL, are a beacon of hope in a world in need of relief. Selling high quality seafood coupled with a well-earned reputation has rightfully allowed KCL to expand its distribution business over the years. Although they deal with large resorts, supermarkets, and top chefs, KCL hasn’t ignored its roots in Hawai‘i. On almost any day, it is still possible to cruise into their NELHA facility and order up some fresh lobster or crab for your afternoon island cookout. So fire up that grill and enjoy some Maine lobster or West Coast crab “Hawaiian style.” Kona Cold Lobsters is located at 73-925 Makako Bay Drive at NELHA. Travel about one-and-a-half miles toward the ocean and it’s the last farm on the left. KCL is open Monday to Friday from 6am to 2pm, Saturdays from 6am to 12pm. For more information, call (808) 329-4332 or visit konacoldlobsters.com 89

PIGS IN PARADISE RAISING THE BAR ON PORK WORDS & IMAGES BROOKE REHMANN

hen visualizing your dream Hawaiian vacation, images of pig farming probably weren’t at the top of your list. You likely imagined idyllic sandy beaches backdropped by various hues of blues and swaying palm trees, and perhaps a hammock and a tropical drink with a colorful paper umbrella in it. But around 700-feet above the sea on a verdant plot of land overlooking the mighty Pacific Ocean, there’s a pig farm and an unlikely pig farmer that just might be the tastiest part of your Big Island vacation. During the Hawaiÿi Food & Wine Festival’s Culinary Journey hosted by Chef Alan Wong, world-renowned master of Hawaiÿi Regional Cuisine, I joined a small group of gourmands and explored the best of the best offerings of the Big Island. This day-trip included stops across the island including Big Island Abalone Corporation and capped at The CanoeHouse located at the beautiful Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows where the best Big Island products sampled throughout the day would be highlighted in an unforgettable dinner fit for royalty. During the tour, we were introduced to Brandon Lee of Kaunamano Farms, and his surprising dream of a pig farm that somehow, despite 90

many obstacles, became a reality. This picturesque piece of land, located mauka, or up mountainside, in the tiny community of Umauma along the stunning Hämäkua Coast, is the current home to about 24 Berkshire pigs. This heritage breed of swine is renowned for its rich flavor, its exquisite marbling, and juicy, tender meat. Berkshire pigs also look different from the usual domesticated pig—instead of the pink or white skin that is typically associated with these creatures, Berkshire pigs are dark brown, nearly black, and covered in coarse hair. Revered in Japan where they are referred to as Kurobuta, Berkshire pigs have been said to be the “Kobe beef” of pork products. Brandon Lee never imagined that pig farming would be his life’s calling. Previously working as an ad executive for Mercedes-Benz, Brandon gave up life in the corporate world to come home to roost. It all started as a dream, he says, that kept growing and growing until he woke up as the caretaker of an overgrown field and the new rightful owner of six baby pigs. As co-owner of Näpua Restaurant, where his business partner and longtime friend, Chef Keoni Regidor, cooks BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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up delicious island-inspired dishes in the Mauna Lani Resort area, Brandon has been diligently working to create the best quality pork products he can get his hands on. “I’m not a cowboy type of guy,” Brandon says, as he explains how his dream of a pig farm, or as he calls it, an “edible petting zoo,” started. In the beginning, he figured that the farm would be a good idea for his restaurant and for his young children. After all, he thought, what family doesn’t love a farm? Yet, when the idea first popped up, the house that he was living in wasn’t conducive to the ideas percolating in his head. He started off with a chicken coop, one that he painted purple and named the “Egg Plant.” Brandon is full of puns and inside jokes, and seems to take great pleasure in throwing them out to others. When referring to his the new piglets born the night before our culinary journey, he called them “bacon seeds,” relishing in the reaction from his audience. It’s this sense of humor, he says, that keeps him going. “Farming entertains me,” he says. “It’s the weirdest thing—it’s so unnatural that it feels natural. I just look out and laugh that I’m doing it.” At first, though, Brandon lacked the land and the capital to get the farm up and going. That was when Brandon’s father heard on the radio about the Mahi‘ai Match-up, an agricultural business plan contest, 92

where Kamehameha Schools and the Pauahi Foundation teamed up to create an opportunity for farmers to compete for leases on various pieces of land across the state. “He told me, ‘I betcha could win,’” Brandon says of his father. He began drafting plans of what the farm would look like, and then submitted his idea. The whole process took about a year, going through several rounds, each time the group getting smaller and smaller. The competition was judging the plans based on innovation and the ability to make the plans a reality. And, as luck would have it, Brandon’s idea won second place. He was now the caretaker of 20 acres of land and a good chunk of cash to get him started. When he first acquired the land, it was covered with grass over 10 feet tall. He lacked a tractor, and didn’t know where to start. He decided to walk the 20 acres and see how the land would work best. All the while, he was completely surprised that this was his new reality. “I don’t know where the drive came from,” he says—and yet, he kept going. But everyday, more work was accomplished. He and his father cosigned on a tractor. Then, he rented a backhoe and scraped out roads. Next came the agricultural inspection, where the Department of Agriculture showed up in hazmat suits to approve the quarantining. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Fences were put up, some electrified, and some not. Finally, three large crates carrying the six piglets arrived at the Kona International Airport at Keähole via Aloha Air Cargo. That was when he fully realized the new responsibility of caring for these animals and raising them properly was upon him. Brandon shares how his friends Isaiah Meyers and Uncle Bruce Bello helped immensely—and, as a group, they created a very special home for these unique creatures. When I first visited his farm, I was surprised at how clean and orderly it was. Brandon uses a rotating pasture method, which means that each group of animals uses a certain area before being rotated to another area. Mental images of pigs wallowing in muck were erased, as we met all of the other animals that call this farm home. We were greeted by not only their pigs, but also chickens, whose pecking help keep the flies down, as well as the goats, who help keep up the perimeter fences and provide milk. Everyone— and everything—on this farm has a job to help create the highest quality pork products available. That includes the group of piglets we met this day, born only the night before our tour. One day they will grow up and either help bear more pigs, or be served at Näpua or other fine restaurants. And, despite what others had told him, Brandon knew the first pig to be harvested would be hard. “It was weird and awkward that first time,” he says, “but you appreciate it more.” In fact, the first pig harvested from his farm was the one served to us at the culminating dinner that evening at The CanoeHouse, with Brandon unsure if all of this hard work had paid off. As the diners relished in the flavorful, succulent heritage pork and sang the praises of the chefs’ creations, the work of one unlikely farmer, and the dream of doing the unexpected, had finally become a truly delicious reality. Kaunamano Farms currently only services Näpua Restaurant but have plans to expand their offerings once they have enough stock. Näpua Restaurant is located at the Mauna Lani Beach Club, at 681292 South Kaniku Drive within the Mauna Lani Resort area, and is open for dinner to the public. For reservations, call (808) 885-5910, and visit their website napuarestaurant.com. For more information about Kaunamano Farms and to see what the farm is up to, check them out on Instagram @ kaunamanofarm, and use #naturalleegrown. myhawaiitraveler.com

PHOTO COURTESY: KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM

ADVENTURE

ADVENTURE ISLE With most of the thirteen climate zones, the Big Island is considered by many as a minicontinent. Where else in the world can you snow-ski in the morning and sunbathe on nationally-ranked beaches in the afternoon? Hawai‘i Island boasts world-renowned golf, spas, dive and snorkel sites, the best hiking and camping, the world’s most active volcano, the clearest night skies for stargazing, and endless activities in which to experience it all. 94

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

EXPLORE OUR KONA AIR TOURS PARADISE HELICOPTERS

Explore paradise on the Hawai‘i helicopter adventure of a lifetime. Paradise Helicopters are the experts in offering an exciting, well-planned, and safe helicopter experience. See breathtaking waterfalls, active volcanoes, panoramic coastlines and wondrous mountain ranges on one of the best heli tours Hawai‘i has to offer. See nature in its most beautiful form. Experience it all from the comfort of our helicopters and the Big Island will reveal itself to you in a way never imagined. So ride along as our experienced guides show you the wonders of the islands, and happily answer any question you might have along the way. Visit paradisecopters.com or call (808) 969-7392.

SAFARI HELICOPTERS

Soar directly to the Kilauea Volcanic System to view the current activity, which may include cinder cones and spectacular fiery lava lakes. View the Lava Tree Forest and the waterfalls among the Wailuku River and Hilo Bay. A family-owned company, Safari Helicopters was founded in 1987 by Preston Myers, retired commander in the U.S. Navel Reserve and one of Hawai‘i’s most experienced pilots. Preston has, over the years, built his company and reputation on the sound principles of safety, professionalism and innovation-always striving to offer the latest in state-of-the-art equipment to assure passengers of an unsurpassable and unforgettable helicopter “safari.” Preston wants Safari passengers to fully enjoy their adventure, but he considers safety of the utmost importance. He holds to the axiom “there are old pilots and there are bold pilots, but there are no old bold pilots,” and he requires that all his Safari pilots adhere to the same high standards of professionalism that he personally carried out over the years. Visit online at safarihelicopters.com for a great discount or call (800) 326-3356.

SUNSHINE HELICOPTERS

Experience the adventure of a lifetime. The Intensity of the volcanic landscape and hidden tropical valleys will surely take your breath away. Sunshine proudly celebrates over 25 years of operation with an excellent safety record. Recipient of the Helicopters Association International “Platinum Program of Safety” award and a member of (T.O.P.S.) Tour Operators Program of Safety. Depart from our exclusive Hapuna Heliport or Hilo airport. Call (808) 882-1223 or visit sunshinehelicopters.com.

EXPLORE HAWAII FOREST & TRAIL

Awarded 2006 Ecotour Operator of the Year, Hawaii Forest & Trail has over eight different Nature Adventure Tours which showcase the Big Island’s scenic diversity. Our Nature Adventure Tours feature the best tour locales, great customer service, relaxed easy walks and hikes led by professionally-trained Interpretive Guides. We’ll share with you the volcanoes, waterfalls, valleys, rainforests and summits, in addition to the life and legends of Hawaii. Frommer’s Guide to Hawai‘i says “... May very well be the highlight of your vacation.” For reservations, call (800) 464-1993 or online at hawaiiforest.com. myhawaiitraveler.com

Peer into the deep and discover Hawaii’s marine mysteries in a Coast Guard approved submarine that dives over 100 feet below the ocean's surface. a t l a n t i s a d ve n t u re s .co m | ( 8 0 8 ) 3 27-1 4 41 | # a t l a n t i s h awa i i EX PLOR E OU R KON A

MAUNA KEA SUMMIT ADVENTURES

Mauna Kea Summit Adventures is the Original Sunset & Stargazing Tour. The ancient Hawaiians thought of the top of Mauna Kea as heaven, or at least where the Gods and Goddesses lived. As the pioneer guide service on Mauna Kea, we have over 35 years experience. Our professional guides are passionate, educational and fun. Beautiful, dramatic photo opportunities abound. Experience treasures of the night sky through our telescope. We provide a delicious hot supper served mid-mountain, hot drinks, arctic style parkas with hoods and convenient pick-up points in Kailua-Kona, Waikoloa & Hwy 190 and Hwy 200 junction. (808) 332-2366 or online at maunakea.com.

SNORKEL, SAIL & SUB ATLANTIS SUBMARINES

An unforgettable 45-minute journey aboard an Atlantis 48-passenger submarine, as featured in National Geographic television specials, where guests explore a 25-acre natural coral reef and its marine inhabitants. Allow Atlantis Submarines to show you the other 96% of Kona you can't see any other way. Treat yourself to Kona's most beautiful and captivating scenery, habitats, and isolated treasures. You'll descend 100 feet into another version of paradise -- one hidden even from the people of Hawaii for centuries. Atlantis Kona offers a journey aboard a 48-passenger submarine. Guests will discover an 18,000-year-old, 25-acre fringing coral reef, which boasts a vibrant ecosystem of coral formations and tropical fish. Tours provide narration in Japanese via headsets. For reservations call (808) 327-1441. 95

ADVENTURE BODY GLOVE CRUISES

All of our cruises are complimented by the first-class amenities on board our state-of-the-art, 65-foot catamaran. The Kanoa II is an award winning, multimillion dollar vessel designed with quality and comfort in mind. Our guests enjoy plenty of shade, cushioned seating, flat screen televisions, a full sound system for live entertainment, and our full service premium bar. The Kanoa II is equipped with three restrooms, two fresh water showers, a 20-foot water slide, a 15-foot high dive platform, two large double swim platforms, and floatation toys for everyone. Call (888) 253-0397 or visit bodyglovehawaii.com.

FAIR WIND CRUISES

Located in Keauhou-Kona on the Big Island of Hawaii, Fair Wind Cruises has been offering snorkel excursions since 1971. We offer two vessels with two very unique snorkel experiences. Our snorkel destination on Fair Wind II, historic Kealakekua Bay, is without question one of the most relaxing areas for snorkeling - maintaining clear visibility and very calm waters throughout the day. Our newest vessel, Hula Kai, has been designed and built to accommodate guests who seek the very best in luxury, comfort, and technology. Our Hula Kai cruise offers the advanced snorkeler a way to explore some of Kona’s most unique and less traveled snorkel destinations along the spectacular Kona Coast shoreline. Call (808) 345-6213 or visit fairwind.com.

MAUNA LANI SEA ADVENTURES

Whatever your pleasure “Winona” offers regularly scheduled cruises and exclusive charters. Our Polynesian sailing catamaran has spacious deck and seating areas for sunning or just relaxing. Join us on our dive boats for a scuba diving adventure at one of our 30 dive sites, and experience the under world of tropical fish, beautiful coral reefs, caves, and arches. If diving is not your pleasure, try our snorkel sail on “Winona” where you can relax under the sun and enjoy great snorkeling along the Kohala coast. Maybe relaxing and watching a sunset Hawaiian style is more your pace. Then come sail with us along the Kohala coastline and take in the views of the island from afar and watch the sunset while you enjoy cocktails and püpü (appetizer). If you join us from December to April, you can watch the majestic humpback whales during their annual migration to the warm Hawaiian waters. Located at Mauna Lani Resort. Call (808)885-7883 or visit maunalaniseaadventures.com.

SNORKEL BOB’S

Snorkel Bob Brand masks for every shape & size-The SEAMO BETTA & LI’L MO BETTA are Rx receptive in a minute. The BUBBA SNORKELS (adult & kid sizes) drain splash water, block backwash and clear easy. Sumo Mask & Bigfoot fins (15-17) for the mongo among you. Boogie boards, beach chairs & 24-HOUR INTERISLAND GEAR RETURN. Book 2 seats on most activities and get a FREE Boogie for the week (Reg. $26). Call (808) 329-0770 (Kona) off Ali’i Drive behind Huggo’s or (808) 885-9499 (The Shops at Mauna Lani) on the Kohala Coast. All Islands 8-5 every day. Online at snorkelbob.com. 96

ZIPLINE FLY HI ZIPLINES

Come experience the breathtaking beauty of the Big Island from the incredible natural setting of Hokukano Ranch. Zipline the canopy of our majestic native Ohia forest while enjoying mountain and ocean views on south Kona’s most unique cattle ranch. Our small group tours assure personal guidance and attention on 8 spectacular canopy lines.All tours feature our oneof-a-kind Screamin' I’o Harness that allows you to fly hands free like your favorite super hero. Fly HI with Bison, Long Horned Watusi, Llamas, and the famed wild horses of Hokukano. Located 20 minutes from local south Kona resorts. Call (808) 319-22622.

KOHALA ZIPLINE

Join us on a Big Island zipline tour like no other. The Kohala Zipline Kohala Canopy Tour traverses a forested, stream-rich land on the northern tip of the Big Island of Hawai‘i, an area known since ancient times as Halawa. With soaring platforms built into majestic trees, accentuated by arching suspension bridges and progressively longer zip lines, our course promises the best of Hawaii zipline adventure tours, serene and thrilling at once. Whether you are a zipline enthusiast or a first-time outdoor adventure seeker, you’ll find in the Kohala Canopy Tour an unforgettable experience. Call (808) 331-3620 or visit kohalazipline.com.

ATTRACTIONS KONA-KOHALA AHU‘ENA HEIAU

A thatched shrine built and restored on an artificial island in Kamakahonu (Eye of the Turtle) is guarded by wooden images (ki‘i). King Kamehameha I settled here in 1812 and maintained his royal residence until his death in 1819. King Kamehameha dedicated Ahu‘ena Heiau, a temple of prosperity, to Lono, god of fertility. Significant history was made on the royal compounds when Liholiho, who became King Kamehameha II dined with the great queens Keopuolani and Ka‘ahumanu breaking one of the most rigorous kapu. This bold act brought on the abandonment of the ancient kapu system and opened the door to Christianity. Located near Kailua Pier 75-5660 Palani Rd. Free. Call (808) 329-2911.

HULIHE‘E PALACE

Two-story Victorian estate made of lava, koa wood and coral mortar was commissioned by Hawai‘i’s second governor John Adams Kuakini and built in 1838. The palace served as a vacation residence for Hawaiian monarchs until 1914. King Kaläkaua used the mansion in the 1880s as his summer palace. Today it houses a collection of royal Hawaiian relics, beautiful furniture and rare collections. Located 75-5718 Ali‘i Drive. Open weekdays 9-4, weekends 10-4. Admission is $5. Call (808) 329-1877 or visithuliheepalace.org.

PU‘UHONUA O HŌNAUNAU

Also known as Place of Refuge, this national historical park served as a safe haven in times of war and was also a place of cleansing for kapu breakers. Wooden images of Hawaiian native gods (ki‘i), temples and heiau on the sacred grounds of the beautiful and serene beachfront

sanctuary make this a must-see historical park. Because ancient Hawaiians believed that if the spirit was not fed then it would drift away, kähuna and others left food offerings in the temple. Today with the revival of Hawaiian customs, you may see offerings of food on the tower (lele) at Hale O Keawe. Picnic tables, fascinating tidepools, sandy sunbathing area and a popular snorkel spot, Two-step, are also nearby. Four miles south of Kealakekua Bay on Rte 160. Open daily 7am to sunset. Admission is $3-$5. Call (808) 328-2288.

LAPAKAHI STATE HISTORICAL PARK

Travel back in time and walk the self-guided tour through the ruins of an ancient fishing village. Displays show early Hawaiian life of fishing, salt gathering, legends games and shelter. Located off Route 270. Open daily 8-4. Free. (808) 882-6207.

PUAKŌ PETROGLYPHS FIELD

View hundreds of ancient Hawaiian art form with warriors, surfers, outriggers and numerous themes. Nearby is Malama Petroglyph Trail. Located off the trail of Mauna Lani Resort off North Kaniku Dr.

PU‘UKOHOLĀ HEIAU

Built by King Kamehameha to honor his family war god, Kü and to fulfill the prophecy of uniting the Hawaiian Islands. Located off Hwy 270 in Kawaihae. Open daily 7:30-4. Free. Call (808) 882-7218.

EAST HAWAI‘I ‘AKAKA FALLS STATE PARK

Includes ‘Akaka Falls, a 442-ft. waterfall that flows spectacularly over a deep gorge into a pool. Kahüna Falls is visible from the loop trail through the park. Located four miles inland north of Hilo, off Hwy 19. Open daily 7-7. Free. (808)974-6200.

BANYAN DRIVE

Celebrities planted banyan trees along this drive beginning in 1933 when hotels were just being built. Famous people include Babe Ruth, Cecil B. DeMille, President Nixon, President Roosevelt and King George V. Located on Banyan Drive in Hilo.

HAWAI‘I VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

It is best to see the spectacular show of red-hot lava flowing into the sea close to sunset off Chain of Craters Road. Also, you can drive the 11-mile Crater Rim Drive past lava fields, steaming craters and forests. Walk through Thurston Lava Tube, a natural tunnel formed when the top and sides of a lava flow hardened and the lava inside drained away. Bring water, flashlight and a sweater. Stop by the visitor’s center for more information and safety. Call (808) 985-6000.

HILO FARMERS MARKET

One of the state’s best farmers markets with more than 120 vendors selling flowers, fresh produce and baked goods. Located on the corner of Kamehameha Ave. and Mamo St. Open Wed. and Sat. Sunrise to 4 p.m.

KAPOHO TIDE POOLS

A large unique collection of tidepools and spring-fed pools, some volcanically heated, extends approximately 200 yards out into the ocean. It’s a great place for novice snorkelers to explore coral and a variety of fish BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

in the calm water. Avoid the pools that are on private property, but the Wai‘opae Ponds adjacent to the ocean are public and fine for exploring. Visit during the week; weekends tend to be crowded with locals. Located off Hwy 137, take Kapoho-Kai Rd., left on Kaheka and right on Wai‘opae.

Mauna Lani Sea Adventures

Come and experience the best Whale Watching, Snorkeling, Sunsets and Scuba Diving along the Kohala Coast!

MOKUPAPAPA: DISCOVERY CENTER

This is an educational center on the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands Coral Reef Ecosystem Reserve, the largest conservation area in the United States. Funded by NOAA, the center has numerous interactive displays, a 2,500-gallon saltwater aquarium and vibrant pictures and video footage of the wildlife in the reserve. Located at 308 Kamehameha Ave. in Downtown Hilo. Open to the public Tuesday-Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., closed on all Federal Holidays. Free Admission! Call (808)933-8195 or visit hawaiireef.gov.noaa/center.

PACIFIC TSUNAMI MUSEUM

Learn about the destructive tsunamis and the details of the 1946 and 1960 that devastated Hilo through photographs, interactive displays and personal accounts from the tsunami survivors. Located at 130 Kamehameha Ave, Hilo. Open Mon-Sat 9-4. Call (808)935-0926.

Book your adventure today!

(808) 885-7883

Mauna Lani Sea Adventures 68-1400 Mauna Lani Drive Kohala Coast, HI 96743 maunalaniseaadventures.com

Scuba • Snorkel Sail • Sunset Sail • Whale Watch • Beach Activities

PANA‘EWA RAINFOREST ZOO

This is the only natural tropical rainforest zoo in the U.S. This 12-acre zoo is home to more than 80 animal species including Namaste’, a white Bengal Tiger. You are invited to picnic in the shade of over 100 varieties of Palm and stroll with Peacocks in the extensive collection of Orchids, Clumping Bamboos and Tropical Rhododendrons. Petting Zoo is open every Saturday 1:30-2:30 p.m. Tiger feeding is 3:30 daily. Open daily 9-4 p.m. except Christmas and New Year’s Day. Free. Located on Mamaki St. off Hwy 11. Call (808)9599233.

kirk lee aeder photography The Hawaiian Islands

RAINBOW FALLS

The best time to catch a rainbow in the mist of these falls is morning. The falls plummet into Wailuku River gorge. Check out Boiling Pots created by the powerful water over ancient lava beds. Located off Route 200, up Waiänuenue Ave.

WAIPI‘O VALLEY

Valley of the Kings can also be considered earth’s Garden of Eden with breathtaking vistas bounded by 2,000 feet cliffs, spectacular Hi‘ilawe Falls plummets 1,200 feet from Kohala Mountain to the bottom of the valley, fruit trees, taro fields, streams and a crescent black sand beach popular with surfers. The steep and narrow road down the valley requires a four-wheel drive. The one-mile hike can be difficult especially on the climb back to civilization. Commercial transportation permits are limited to four outfits to maintain the pristine environment of one of the state’s most isolated places. Tours are unavailable on Sundays. Waipi‘o Valley Lookout offers breathtaking views without breaking a sweat. Located off Hwy 240 ~8 miles northwest of Honoka‘a.

myhawaiitraveler.com

Be sure to check out Kirk Lee Aeder’s newest book, Child Of The Storm, the amazing true story of legendary surfer Chris O’Rourke.

•Full service digital photography •Experienced in all facets: productions, events, aerials, sports, water sports •Published everywhere, stock images available •Located on Hawaii’s Big Island while serving all of the Hawaiian Islands •Member of Hawaii’s Visitors Convention Bureau Kirk or Nita Aeder: 808-987-6614 aederkla@aol.com www.kirkaederphoto.com PO Box 385155, Waikoloa, HI 96738

FIRE MEETS SEA CHAIN OF CRATERS ROAD

WORDS EKUA IMPRAIM

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

myhawaiitraveler.com

n the Big Island, there’s a special feeling you get as you drive through a vast lava field that ripples down the land to the coastline. At this junction, the lava meets the pounding waves of the Pacific Ocean, which will transform it into cliffs, rocks, or black sand over time. The Big Island offers a unique closeness to these foundational forces of nature, and it gives you an inimitable sense that the land is alive and constantly evolving. In Hawaiÿi Volcanoes National Park, the 18.8-mile Chain of Craters Road is one of the best places on the island to experience this feeling. The Chain of Craters Road itself tells the story of the Big Island’s impermanence. The road is located on the flanks of Kïlauea, the world’s most active volcano. Just four years after the complete Chain of Craters Road opened in 1965, a five-year eruption at Mauna Ulu ruined a significant portion of it, and it had to be rebuilt. In the larger scope of history, the road plays only a small role in the story of Kïlauea’s lava in this area—countless Native Hawaiian sites including heiau (temples), petroglyphs, and homes have been claimed by the lava. In more recent history, from 1986 to 2013, lava from the Puÿu ÿÖÿö vent crossed Chain of Craters Road several times, covering almost nine miles of it. The Chain of Craters Road has had a break from lava flows for a few years, but it’s still a good idea to check the daily updates from the United States Geological Survey (USGS) before you head out for safety information or to learn about the potential for viewing active flows. Whether or not there is flowing lava to view, the Chain of Craters Road is an excellent place to spend a day. To make the most of your time exploring the road, the park 100

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

suggests allowing four to six hours for a self-guided tour. While there is a concession stand at the end of the road, it is wise to bring ample food and water with you, especially if you plan on hiking. Sunscreen, dressing in layers, and sturdy shoes for walking on lava are also recommended. The Chain of Craters Road begins just past the Kïlauea Iki Crater and winds its way down the slopes of the volcano to the ocean. As the name of the road suggests, there are numerous craters to see here. The small Lua Manu Crater is the first one you’ll come across, followed by Puhimau, Pauahi, and more. Each crater offers a unique glimpse of Kïlauea’s landscapes and they may be rocky and eroded, filled with lava, or overgrown with trees. The craters are located at the top of Chain of Craters Road, and may not be listed in the park’s maps, so drive slowly as you begin to make your way down the road and keep an eye out for turnouts. Further down the road, Mauna Ulu provides a dramatic display of Kïlauea’s might. At this stop, you can take a 2.5-mile roundtrip hike to the Puÿu Huluhulu cinder cone. This hike leads you across a lava field created by Mauna Ulu’s 1969 to 1974 eruption. Here, you can find lava tree molds and small, but formidable ÿöhiÿa lehua trees that have taken root in the lava. As you climb to the top of Puÿu Huluhulu, you can see how much the landscape was changed by Mauna Ulu’s eruptions. The Puÿu Huluhulu cinder cone is covered by a thick, ancient forest; while below, it is surrounded by a desolate sea of lava. A patch of older land in the middle of lava with vegetation is called a kïpuka (island of life), and the plants that survive on these islands play a key role in reestablishing life on the lava fields around them. On myhawaiitraveler.com

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"IN THIS PLACE, YOU GET A SENSE THAT THE FORCES OF THE EARTH HAVE NOT YET FINISHED THEIR WORK..." the forested parts of the trail, keep your eyes peeled for the gorgeous purple fiddleheads of the uluhe, a hearty fern that can be found in rainforests throughout the Hawaiian Islands. Kïlauea is a gently sloping shield volcano and it’s often hard to get a sense of its height while you’re on it. The Kealakomo Overlook is a great place to gain visual perspective as it provides expansive views of the island’s southeastern coastline and the Pacific Ocean. This overlook is situated on the edge of the Hölei Pali (cliff), and looking down at the lava field below, you can see stripes and patches of dark black lava amid the aging lava where newer flows headed toward the sea and continued to make the Big Island bigger. After Kealakomo, the road zigzags down the side of the pali, and the next stop is the Puÿu Loa Petroglyphs, a sacred place for Native Hawaiians. A short 1.5-mile round-trip hike from the main road, these petroglyphs offer insight into ancient Hawaiian culture and beliefs. About 85% of the 23,000 petroglyphs at this site are puka—holes where people placed newborn’s umbilical cords in the hopes that the babies would live long lives. Among the petroglyphs you will also find geometric shapes, anthropomorphic figures, and canoe imagery. At the bottom of the Chain of Craters Road, the sea collides with the lava in a dramatic fashion. In Hawaiian mythology, Pele, the volcano goddess, and her sister Nämaka, the sea goddess, are bitter enemies. After driving Pele away from their home, Nämaka continued to chase her, and as the battle between sea and lava continued to move from one spot to another, it formed the Hawaiian Island chain. It is said that Pele eventually found a home in Kïlauea, but it appears that the battle between the sisters continues. The volcano has won many times when its molten lava has poured over the side of the island and sizzled into the sea. But, as you stand on the edge of the lava cliffs at the bottom of the Chain of Craters Road, the sea appears to be winning as the waves crash against the cliffs with such force, at times it sounds like thunder. At the end of the Chain of Craters Road, the Hölei Sea Arch is a perfect example of the Big Island’s changing landscape. The arch will not be there forever. Someday, 102

it will no longer be able to withstand the battering of the ocean, and it will fall into the sea. But perhaps a new arch will form…perhaps new lava will flow to the sea and rebuild parts that have fallen off. In this place, you get a sense that the forces of the Earth have not yet finished their work, and you have no idea what will happen next. This is the profound beauty of a day spent exploring the Chain of Craters Road—the opportunity to revel in the unpredictable power and magnificence of nature. IMPORTANT SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS Once reaching the end of Chain of Craters Road, you can hike across lava rock to get a better view of active lava; however, the lava rock can be sharp and jagged, and lava benches can collapse without warning, causing steam explosions. It’s imperative to stay on marked paths and only hike if you have enough light to see where you’re going. Be extremely cautious and be responsible when venturing out keeping your safety top of mind. If hiking out to the lava, always bring plenty of water to stay hydrated, light snacks for energy, and a small first-aid kit in case of injury, and a charged cell phone. As you’ll be exposed to sun and heat, always wear a hat and sunglasses and cover exposed areas of your skin with sunscreen. For footwear, boots are a better choice than sneakers—no open-toe shoes. Wear appropriate clothing and layering is a good idea. It’s highly recommended that visitors watch the brief video presentation in the pavilion near the ranger station that outlines the dangers of the area. Visitors should also be aware of vog (volcanic air pollution/smog), which can be unhealthy and affect your respiration. To lessen the effects of vog, drink a lot of fluids to loosen mucus and clear the lungs; don’t smoke or overexert yourself and keep any prescribed respiratory or heart medications handy. To check vog and air-quality conditions, visit hawaiiso2network.com. Lava flows are generally not predictable and change frequently. Visitors who are interested in viewing lava should first check with the National Park Service. Call (808) 985-6000 or visit their website at nps.gov/havo/planyourvisit/lava2.htm. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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FROM MAJESTIC WAIPI‘O VALLEY TO FIERY KĪLAUEA

escend in time to historic Hilo and spend the day exploring the beautiful lush gardens, historical museums, tranquil waterfalls, original shops, galleries and restaurants. This charming coastal city by the bay known for its friendliness and diversity of residents receives nearly 130 inches of rain annually making it one of the wettest cities on the planet. Combine all the rain with some sunshine and rich volcanic soil and you have the makings of a tropical wonderland. In the distant past, Hilo Bay was used as a trading hub for ships of commerce including whaling ships and sugar transportation for early Hawaiians. Today the port is used for a different kind of commerce, tourism. Many visitors aboard the cruise ships come to explore the many attractions in or nearby this resilient little town that has survived two destructive tsunamis in 1946 and 1960. Learn what it was like to endure the deadly storms by visiting the Pacific Tsunami Museum and listen to the stories from the remarkable survivors. Famous for growing exceptional orchids and other tropical vegetation, Hilo has several botanical gardens to marvel at nature’s beauty. 104

Wander through Lili‘uokalani Gardens, a 30acre, Japanese-style garden with pagodas, fishfilled ponds, half-moon bridges and a ceremonial teahouse. Designed to honor Hawai‘i’s first Japanese immigrants, it also offers a picturesque panoramic view of Hilo Bay. Take a stroll down Banyan Drive near the Hilo International Airport where celebrities including Babe Ruth, President Roosevelt and King George V all planted banyan tree saplings beginning in 1933. They have grown into a wonderful canopy providing welcoming shade on a sunny afternoon. Make time on either Wednesday or Saturday to visit Hilo Farmers Market featuring a wide variety of tropical flowers and delectable fruits and vegetables from over 200 vendors from all over the island. North of Hilo is the Hämäkua District surrounded by views of dramatic elevated coastlines, a stunning emerald jungle, flowing streams and waterfalls cascading down the sides of Mauna Kea. Take the time to visit the quaint towns of Honoka‘a and Laupahoehoe, former plantation towns, where traditional Hawaiian arts and history come alive. A few miles north of Honoka‘a is Waipi‘o Valley, with plummeting

waterfalls intersecting the explosion of lush tropical foliage on dramatic cliffs, it will make your top ten list of one of the most beautiful sights. The Puna District, south of Hilo, is a land of contrast and the fastest growing district on the island. Open lava fields and lush rainforests where numerous farmers grow everything from tropical plants, macadamia nuts and exotic fruits. Spend a day exploring the wonders of heated tidepools, natural springs, lava tubes, caves, black sand beaches and parks. Thirty minutes west of Hilo is home to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park with two active volcanoes and Pele, the fiery volcano goddess. Kïlauea, the world’s most active and most visited volcano, is best visited around sunset. Over half of the 330,000-acre park is designated wilderness and provides unique hiking and camping opportunities. Stop by the visitor center for eruption updates and the all important safety information. Wear comfortable shoes, bring a sweater, flashlight and plenty of water and be prepared to experience one of the most spectacular natural wonders of the world. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY (THIS PAGE/OPPOSITE); KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM

DESTINATIONS

EAST HAWAI‘I

HAPUNA BEACH

KOHALA ‘Anaeho‘omalu Beach (A-Bay)

A-Bay is a lovely, crescent beach with salt-and-pepper sand ideal for sail boarding, windsurfing, swimming and catching a perfect sunset. Palm trees separate the Pacific from the ancient fishponds and petroglyph fields. The water is usually calm so it makes a good family beach. You can walk south on a path upon entrance of the beach to find more private white sand beaches. Equipment rental, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Waikoloa Beach Dr across from the Kings’ Shops. Follow signs to beach.

Hāpuna Beach State Recreation Area

Splendid large white sand beach with clear turquoise water is great for swimming, snorkeling and body boarding. See Maui’s Haleakalä across the big blue Pacific. It’s crowded on the weekends and shade is scarce so plan accordingly. Be careful of the strong rip currents. Lifeguard, picnic areas, snack stand, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 adjacent to Häpuna Beach Prince Hotel with plenty of parking spaces. 105

Kauna‘oa Beach

A nationally-ranked beautiful, white sand crescent beach fringed with palms and naupäka is a great place for swimming and snorkeling due to the gradually sloping sandy bottom, except during heavy winter surf. Get there early since public parking passes are limited. Lifeguard, restrooms and showers are available. Located through the entry gate to Mauna Kea Beach Resort off Hwy 19.

Ka‘ūpūlehu Beach

Beautiful scenic white sand beach, with clear, calm water and resting sea turtles. There are fantastic tidepools and a breakwater in front of the hotel making it a great place to swim. Restrooms and showers are available. Located through the gate to the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai off Hwy 19.

Kēōkea Beach Park

Swim with extreme caution since this charming secluded rocky beach park with its cliff-rimmed cove and green lawn lined with palm trees is often plagued by high wind and high surf. Spearfishing and fishing are excellent, but swimming can be hazardous.

Camping, picnic areas, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 270, near Pololü overlook about 6 miles past Häwï. Follow the sign onto the curvy road ~1 mile; past the cemetery.

Māhukona Beach Park

Former shipping port for the sugar industry is now littered with underwater debris making this quiet beach park a great snorkeling site. The once useful machineries now lying at the bottom of the sea can easily be seen through the clear water. Swimming can be dangerous due to the heavy surf and no sandy beach for entrance (there’s a ladder off the old dock). Camping, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 270 north of Koai‘e Cove State Underwater Park between mile markers #14 and #15.

Spencer Beach Park

Nice sandy white beach is great for swimming, snorkeling and picnics year-round. It is popular with families due to the reef-protected, gently sloping sandy bottom. Volleyball and basketball courts, camping, restrooms, and showers are available. Located off Hwy 270, ~ 1 mile uphill of Kawaihae Harbor within walking distance of Pu‘ukoholä Heiau. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

SAND + SURF

HIT THE BEACH

Waialea Bay or “69” Beach

Named for the utility pole marker, this is a lovely white sand beach with crystal clear blue water great for swimming and snorkeling due to its sandy bottom and gradual drop off. Snorkeling is great around the rocky outcropping inside the bay, but the best snorkeling is in the southern portion where depths range from 10 to 30 feet. Mostly the water is super clear, but periodic freshwater invasion by an intermittent stream reduces surface visibility. Exercise caution during the winter months due to high surf. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 ~5 miles south of Kawaihae, south of Häpuna Beach. Turn onto Puako Beach Dr., next take first right onto Old Puakö Road and park between pole #71 and #72.

NORTH KONA Kekaha Kai State Park

A 1,642 acre coastal state park with some of the best beaches on the island. Mahai‘ula Beach is an exquisite white sand beach great for swimming and snorkeling in the well-protected bay. About a 30-minute walk north of Mahai‘ula Beach is Makalawena Beach, one of the most stunning beaches on the island, with silky white sand and beautiful crystal clear turquoise water with sand dunes and trees as a backdrop and shoreline made up of intricate coves. Located ~2 miles north of Kona International Airport off Hwy 19 between mile marker #90 and #91, take rough 1 ½ mile road to beach.

Kua Bay Beach Park

Honokōhau Beach

Long, narrow strand of white sand beaches north of the harbor with several protected pools bordered by a lagoon is excellent for swimming and snorkeling. Ai‘opio Beach is a sandy beach with crystal clear water and green sea turtles north of the harbor with protected swimming areas and ‘Alula Beach is a small white sandy crescent beach south of the harbor offering good snorkeling and offshore scuba diving. Kaloko Beach has great snorkeling with sea arches. The beaches are part of the Kaloko-Honoköhau National Park located off Hwy 19. Take turn onto Hohoköhau Small Boat Harbor or visit the park headquarters between mile marker #96 and #97.

Old Kona Airport Park

The beach has a sandy inlet with tide pools. Snorkeling and diving are good. Be careful of sharp coral and lava rock when entering the water. Picnic area, tennis courts, jogging path, restrooms and showers are available. Located at the north end of Kuakini Rd off Hwy 19.

Wāwāloi Beach Park

Fascinating collection of tide pools and sandy beach is a great spot for kids and for exploring nearby secluded beaches. The beach is protected by a natural lava barrier for enjoyable swimming. Pine Trees, a popular surf spot, is nearby; swimming is not recommended. Picnic tables, grills, restrooms and showers are 106

available. Located off Hwy 19 north of Kona Airport close to mile marker #94; follow signs for Natural Energy Lab.

alive with old traditions. Picnic areas, restrooms and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 ~33 miles south of Kailua near mile marker #88.

SOUTH KONA Ho‘okena Beach Park

Nāpō‘opo‘o Beach Park

Grey sand beach good for swimming, snorkeling and bodysurfing. Water shoes are recommended for this beach. Picnic areas, restrooms and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 past 101 mile marker near Place of Refuge; follow signs.

Kahalu‘u Beach Park

Salt and pepper beach fringed with palms is most popular for swimming, snorkeling and fishing. This dark sandy beach is one of the best spots for snorkeling on the island with an abundance and variety of colorful reef fish and sea life. Beware of high surf and rip currents. Picnic area, restrooms and showers are available. Located on Ali‘i Dr. next to mile marker #5.

Kamakahonu Bay

The name means “eye of the turtle”. The beach is a sliver of white sand that is popular with families for swimming, snorkeling and kayaking. Located next to King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel adjacent to busy Kailua Pier on Ali‘i Dr.

Miloli‘i Beach Park

Tidepools and patches of beach with protecting reefs make for great swimming and snorkeling. Near an ancient fishing village destroyed by lava flow in 1927

Located in Kealakekua Bay Marine reserve where spinner dolphins swim close to shore, spectacular for snorkeling, diving and boat tours in the clear, calm pristine bay. Colorful reef fish are plentiful in the welldeveloped reef. Black rocky beach with a steep incline makes ocean access risky, however there is a short pier at the left side of the parking lot. Across the bay, a 27foot white obelisk represents where Captain Cook was killed in 1779. Located off Hwy 11; exit Kealakekua Bay just south of milemarker 111. Beach is at the end of Näpö‘opo‘o Rd., turn right at the end of the road.

La‘aloa Beach Park

a.k.a. Magic Sands, White Sands or Disappearing Sands because the beach disappears during high surf months and returns in the spring. Gets crowded with body and board surfers. One of the best surfing spots is just north at Banyans. Restrooms and showers are available. Located on Ali‘i Dr. ~ 4 ½ miles south of Kailua.

HĀMĀKUA Kolekole Beach Park

Fabulous place to picnic, fish and explore the underthe-bridge park with abundant tropical foliage and waterfalls. The Kolekole stream is fed from ‘Akaka Falls and flows into the ocean. Do not attempt to BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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Gorgeous, pristine white sand beach great for swimming is part of the Kekaha Kai State Park. Restrooms are available. Located off Hwy 19 across West Hawai‘i Veteran’s Cemetery ~5 miles north of the Kona Airport.

You must have a relaxing soak or a swim in this clear, warm 95 degrees half-acre pond surrounded by palms and fed by thermal freshwater springs mixed with seawater. The pool is volcanically heated and is easily accessible by ladders. Snorkeling is allowed in the pool. There is a small inlet connecting the pond to the Pacific. Picnic tables, grills and restrooms are available. Located on Hwy 137, SE of Pähoa town.

Kehena Beach Park

Lovely black sand beach with coconut and ironwood trees offers shade and nice backdrop. Swimming can be rough because of the strong rip currents, but it’s a great place to watch dolphins and turtles. The secluded location of the beach also draws nude sunbathers. Located off Hwy 137 about 5 miles south of MacKenzie State Recreation Area, park by other cars and take the well-worn path to beach.

Green Sand (Papakōlea) Beach

Green crystals sparkle like jewels in the sun next to a magnificent turquoise sea in this unusual, most beautiful crescent beach formed during an early eruption of Mauna Loa. Swimming can be dangerous and there are no facilities, but once you kick off your tennis shoes and have a refreshing soak, you will appreciate the awesomeness of nature’s gift. Take Hwy 11 to South Point Rd in Ka‘ü and go south 12 miles. From here, continue NE on the dirt road to the boat launch and hike the final two miles to this majestic beach. KUA BAY swim at the mouth of the river or enter the ocean at this spot because the rough, strong currents and rocky bottom makes it dangerous. Restrooms, showers and picnic areas are available. Located off Hwy 19 about 12 miles NW of Hilo between ‘Akaka and Umauma Falls.

Honoli‘i Beach Park

Laupāhoehoe Point Beach Park

Scenic park with series of inlets, coves and tide pools. It’s a good place to scuba dive. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~4 miles east of Hilo.

Swimming, snorkeling and surfing can be good, but heavy surf makes it dangerous at times. Site of the 1946 tidal wave offers good fishing and beautiful park. Picnic areas, camping, restrooms, showers and electricity are available. Located ~1 mile off Hwy 19 down a well-marked twisting road.

HILO Coconut Island Beach Park

Local family favorite for swimming, fishing, picnicking and tide pools. Shallow pools with sandy bottoms make this beach keiki (kid) friendly. Nice shade provided by coconut and ironwood trees. Located next to the Hilo Hawaiian Hotel on Banyan Drive, cross the footbridge.

James Kealoha Beach Park

Good snorkeling, swimming, surfing, spearfishing and throw-netting. Best to swim and snorkel on the east side of the beach since it’s more protected than the west side, which can be rough with strong currents during high surf. Picnic areas, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19, ~3 miles east of Hilo. myhawaiitraveler.com

Sandy beach is popular local spot for surfing and boogie boarding on the eastern coast. Strong surf makes swimming difficult. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 at Alae Point.

Leleiwi Beach Park

Onekahakaha Beach Park

Good family beach with a protected, white sand beach and tidepools. Picnic pavilions, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~3 miles east of Hilo.

Richardson Ocean Park

Black sand beach fringed with coconut palms and ironwood trees. Lava outcroppings give swimmers somewhat protection and makes for good snorkeling. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~5 miles east of Hilo.

Reeds Bay Park

Banyan-lined cove offers excellent swimming in calm waters, but freshwater spring from the bottom keeps the water cold, a.k.a. the Ice Pond. Picnic areas, restrooms, showers, and camping are available. Located at the end of Banyan Drive.

MacKenzie State Recreation Area

Beautiful 13-acre coastal park located in a breezy, cool ironwood grove along a rocky coastline. Small sea arches and lava tube openings are visible along the coastline cliffs. Swimming is not recommended due to the sea cliff that borders the park, but good shore fishing exists. Beware of occasionals high waves that break on the ledges. Picnic tables, camping and restrooms are available. Located off Hwy 137, 9 miles NE of Kaimü.

Punalu‘u Black Sand Beach Park

Palm trees line this inviting lagoon where green sea turtles rest on the black sand, good swimming beach and easily accessible. Near the boat ramp at the northern end of the beach lie the ruins of a heiau and a flat sacrificial stone. Restrooms and camping are available. Nearby is Ninole Cove, a small beach with a grassy area and lagoon good for swimming. Located on Hwy 11, 27 miles south of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.

Whittington Beach Park

Picturesque scenic park rich with vibrant colors and history. Not much of a beach, but a great place to take photographs and explore the stunning views of the park and the wharf built in 1883 to move sugar, then destroyed by the 1946 tsunami. Swimming is not recommended in the ocean due to strong currents, high surf and rocky shoreline. Fishing is popular with the locals on the weekends. Picnic area, restrooms, electricity and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 across from the abandoned sugar mill. 107

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CALENDAR

ISLAND EVENTS ONGOING FREE TUESDAY TROT: 5K FUN RUN & WALK

(Tuesdays) - Each Tuesday throughout the year anyone can join Historic Kailua Village’s Tuesday Trot 5K Fun Run and Walk. Big Island Running Company coordinates non-competitive free weekly fun runs, which begins at their Aliÿi Drive store location at 5pm, turn around at Makaeo Pavilion (Old Airport), and return to the point of origin. Visitors, residents, children, anyone and everyone are invited to join the community camaraderie and help promote active, healthy lifestyles. Contact Melissa (808) 327-9333. KINGS’ SHOPS FARMERS MARKET (Wednesdays) - In close proximity to many of the Kohala Coast resorts, this boutiquestyle farmers market is convenient for the communities on the western coast of the island. Located throughout the Kings’ Shops in the Waikoloa Beach Resort, purchase fresh and affordable produce in a tropical setting. Sample fresh and dried fruits from Hawaiian Rainbow Farms, or purchase some of their handcrafted Hula Hands natural soap. Palani French Bakers features classic and crusty French baguettes, brioche, artisanal breads and fresh pastries. It’s the perfect breakfast option that pairs excellently with the flavors of Honomu Jams & Jellies; try their organic goods made with all natural ingredients from over 100 varieties of fruit and vegetables. Once you’ve enjoyed all the market has to offer, take advantage of great dining and shopping at the various restaurants and retailers from trendy boutiques to luxury brands at the Kings’ Shops premier shopping center. Farmers Market is open from 8:30am to 2:30pm. PORTUGUESE STONE OVEN BREAD BREAKING

(Thursdays) - Take part in this historical recreation—making, and then baking traditional sweet bread in a wood-fired oven called a forno, the type used by Portuguese immigrants who came to Hawai‘i in the 1800s. This is a unique, tasty, and hands-on experience! Free. The baking event is from 10am-1pm; around 12:30pm to 1pm is when the first batch of beautiful brown bread comes out of the oven. The loaves ($8) are first come, first served, and sold straight out of the oven until sold out. Kona Historical Society (808) 323-3222. TWILIGHT AT KALAHUIPUA‘A

(Saturdays, closest to full moon) - Each 110

month when the full moon rises, Mauna Lani hosts an enchanted evening of storytelling and entertainment on the lawn of the resort’s oceanfront Eva Parker Woods Cottage. Join Mauna Lani’s Cultural Historian, Danny Kaniela Akaka, as he leads guests in sharing stories, songs and dance. The event perpetuates the traditional folk art of storytelling and provides a chance to experience the true Aloha Spirit. The oceanfront location is the piko (spiritual center) of the resort’s ancient Hawaiian fishponds, making it the perfect venue under the full moon. Twilight dates are subject to change. 5:30pm. Free. Please contact Mauna Lani Concierge at (808) 881-7911 to confirm date. KOKUA KAILUA

(Monthly) - One Sunday each month from 1pm to 6pm, oceanfront Aliÿi Drive along scenic Kailua Bay in Historic Kailua Village becomes a festive pedestrian-only walkway and marketplace. Enjoy free music, artists, and friendly merchants for great shopping and delicious dining. At 4pm, there is free Hawaiian entertainment on the lawn at Huliheÿe Palace honoring Hawaiian royalty. Bring your own mat or chair and they will be checked for free while you stroll Aliÿi Drive. Shop, dine, and buy local! Call (808) 936-9202 or historickailuavillage.com. SEPTEMBER QUEEN LILI‘UOKALANI LONG DISTANCE OUTRIGGER CANOE RACES

(Sept. 1-5) – The world’s largest long distance outrigger canoe race welcomes more than 2,500 outrigger canoe paddlers to Kona. Kai Opua Canoe Club, one of Hawaiÿi’s oldest outrigger canoe clubs, will host crews from Australia, Canada, Hong Kong, Japan, New Zealand, Peru, Tahiti, United Kingdom and an estimated 75 crews from the US. Hawaiÿi will be well represented with multiple crews and more than 60 Big Island crews are also expected on the starting line. Other official Queen Liliÿuokalani Canoe Race events unfold throughout the holiday weekend including Historic Kailua Village Cultural Walk, Paddling Talk Story, Native Artist Fair, Torchlight Parade, Stand-up Paddleboard Race, Aliÿi Challenge and new this year, Hulakai OC4 (4-person canoes) Sprint Relay Race. Contact Mike (808) 937-3255 or visit kaiopua.org. RUN FOR HOPE

(Sept. 9-11) – Be part of the 20th annual weekend to benefit cancer research with great

food and fun for all. Friday at 6pm: Taste of Hawaiÿi Island is a popular culinary event with chef stations offering tasty delights from talented chefs from around the Big Island along great entertainment and fabulous silent auction at the Hoku Amphitheatre. Saturday: Golf & Tennis Tournaments with an awards ceremony reception following the events. Play on the Jack Nicklaus signature Hualälai Golf Course or experience Rebound Ace surface courts. Sunday: Run for Hope/Keiki Dash with an awards ceremony reception following the event. New for 2016—Teams + Themes! Show some team spirit by dressing up! Sponsored by Four Seasons Resort Hualälai, 100% of proceeds will be donated to American Cancer Society and Friends of UH Cancer Center. For tickets, registration and more information, visit RunForHopeHualalai.com. OCTOBER IRONMAN WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP

(Oct. 8) – The Ironman World Championship, considered one of the most grueling one-day sporting events in the world, will be held in Kailua-Kona. Over 2,000 triathletes from around the world swim through the waters surrounding Kailua Pier, bike through Kona roads to the Kohala Coast and back, and run a marathon course that ends at Aliÿi Drive for a total of 140.6 miles with thousands of cheering spectators at the finish line. For more info, visit ironman.com or email kona@ironman.com. THE TASTE OF HILO

(Oct. 16) - The Japanese Chamber of Commerce’s 18th Annual Taste of Hilo will once again feature the culinary delights of more than 35 chefs, restaurants, patisseries, and beverage distributors. Sponsored by the Japanese Chamber of Commerce, a portion of proceeds go to support the Hawaii Community College. Tickets are $50 presale, and $65 at the door, subject to availability. For tickets, call the Chamber office at (808) 934-0177, or be email jccih@jccih.org. ALOHA BALL

(Oct. 21-23) - The 3rd annual Aloha Ball hosts dancing competitions at the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay. The Aloha Ball is the only Dancesport competition on Hawaiÿi Island with an international panel of judges and attendees from throughout the Mainland U.S. and Hawaiÿi. The competition includes all ballroom styles, age groups and levels of BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

expertise, and includes spectacular professional ballroom dancing exhibitions. For more information, visit AohaBallDance.com. HAWAI‘I FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL: HOT LAVA, HOTTER CUISINE

(Oct. 22) - What better place to present seven of the hottest chefs than in the home of the mythical Hawaiian goddess of fire, Pele? The diversity of the Big Island’s land and bounty will be showcased in a six-course dinner at the Hilton Waikoloa Village. Ignite your tastebuds with ingredients from this fiery island prepared by culinary masters. Inspired by the lava, let the wine flow with exceptional pairings by Southern Wine & Spirits Hawaii. Featured chefs include: Michelle Bernstein, Bruce Bromberg, Jayson Kanekoa, Hubert Keller, Hans Lentz, Tae-Hwan Ryu and Nancy Silverton. The Hawaiÿi Food & Wine Festival is the premier epicurean destination event in the Pacific, featuring more than 100 internationally renowned master chefs, culinary personalities, and wine and spirit producers. Co-founded by two of Hawaiÿi’s own James Beard awardwinning chefs, Roy Yamaguchi and Alan Wong, the Festival showcases local ingredients and supports local agricultural and culinary programs. Visit hawaiifoodandwinefestivals.com. Call Tannya (808) 725-1751 or email tannya@ hawaiifoodandwinefestivals.com.

PHOTO COURTESY: FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALĀLAI

NOVEMBER KONA COFFEE CULTURAL FESTIVAL

(Nov. 4-13) – The Kona Coffee Cultural Festival returns for its 46th annual celebration of Kona’s world famous coffee with more than 40 events throughout the exciting 10-day festival. Hawaii’s oldest food festival celebrates legacy and cultural traditions embedded in this world famous brew. The festival showcases traditional arts of all the ethnic groups that contribute to Kona coffee’s enduring success and celebrates the modern harvest of today throughout the Kona Coffee Belt. Visit KonaCoffeeFest.com for schedule of events. CHEF FEST

(Nov. 9-12) - Chef Fest is a celebration of high-profile dinners, interactive cooking classes and culinary experiences, amazing wines and activities. Part of the Four Seasons Food & Wine global series, Chef Fest features some of today’s top chefs coming together to cook, teach and entertain in an intimate and relaxed beach setting at the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai. myhawaiitraveler.com

Taste side-by-side with award-winning celebrity chefs including Ludo Lefebvre, Seamus Mullen, Matthew Accarrino, Chris Hastings and George Mendes. Some of the world’s most acclaimed wine and spirits experts will present guests with intimate and memorable dining experiences in an interactive social setting. Experience spectacular wine pairings, creative cocktails and amazing food throughout Chef Fest. Visit FoodAndWineHualalai.com for more information and special packages. DECEMBER 56TH ANNUAL WAIMEA CHRISTMAS TWILIGHT PARADE

(Dec. 3) – Waimea’s famous Christmas parade (the second oldest in Hawaiÿi) includes a Santa float, dozens of units representing Waimea from keiki to kupuna including churches, schools, youth groups, community organizations, farms, ranches and businesses, plus a huge brigade of festively lighted trucks. Parade is from 5:30pm to 6:45pm (only emergency vehicles will be able to pass through the town center during this time). As always, Santa has promised to again ride in our parade and afterwards, visit with keiki at Parker Ranch Center’s Fireside Food Court. For information, visit WaimeaTown.org. MAUNA LANI CHARITY TREES

(Dec. 4) -The Kona Historical Society (KHS) is celebrating the holiday season by sharing its historical photo collection as part of a Christmas tree exhibit at Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows. KHS staff and volunteers decorate a Christmas tree with special historic photos for the Mauna Lani Charity Trees event. Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows will award prizes to organizations whose trees, displayed in the hotel’s lobby, receive the highest number of votes from the public. Call Ramona (808) 3233222. JINGLE BELL BEACH RUN- 5K & 1-MILE RUNS

(Dec. 18) - The Jingle Bell Beach Run began in December of 2005 in an effort to kick

off Christmas week with a bang! The idea blossomed from the creative mind of Rani “The RoadRunner” (Tanimoto) Henderson to give this run a Christmas twist. Henderson only had a week to put her organizational skills to the test, and on December 18, 2005, it became the first annual Jingle Bell Beach Run! One thing Henderson strived for was to keep this run simple and fun. With that in mind, and together with the help of her husband Penn, it has grown over the last few years into a first-class event—one that participants remember, enjoy, and return year after year for more! In addition, awards are given out to the top overall finishers as well as the top three best-dressed Christmas costumes. Raffle prizes follow the awards, so it’s very hard for one to go home empty handed! At Coconut Grove Marketplace. Contact Penn (808) 345-6214 or visit Kona5K.com. 19TH ANNUAL WAILEA VILLAGE MOCHI POUNDING FOR NEW YEAR

(Dec. 30) – Akiko’s over the past 18 years has celebrated the ancient art of mochi pounding, making rice cakes to commemorate the coming of New Years. This event started with just 23 neighbors, finding and recovering mochi pounding equipment that had been stored away—stone mortars, wooden pounding mallets, red wood steamer boxes lined with slit bamboo mats, old metal fire places and finely hewn rectangular boxes to cool the completed rice cakes. Join us for what has become a free public event, where hundreds come throughout the day to take their turn at pounding the sticky glutinous rice for good luck. There are food vendors, our classic $5 chicken hekka plate lunch, Hawaiian entertainment, food vendors, fortunetellers, and massage. There are used books, orchids, precious handmade items by our Hakalau Seniors Club, and cool jazz. There are Japanese New Year’s floral arrangements and New Year’s arts and crafts. There is cool jazz and delicious desserts. Akiko’s Buddhist Bed & Breakfast in Hakalau. Call (808) 963-6422. All events are subject to change. Go to myhawaiitraveler.com for more special events. 111

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