Brookfield - Big Island Traveler - Fall 2018 by Traveler Media

BIG ISLAND THE LIFE & STYLE OF HAWAI‘I

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

L E G E N DA RY SHOPPING & DINING

T R AV E L E R VALLEY OF THE KINGS

THE MIGHTY, VERDANT VALLEY OF WAIPI‘O

myhawaiitraveler.com

New Cultural Exhibits throughout the center in partnership with Bishop Museum Located in Waikoloa Beach Resort | Big Island | KingsShops.com | 808.886.8811

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FALL 2018

EPIC EPICUREAN EVENTS

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LOCAL VIBE ISLAND STYLE FOOD + DRINK ENDLESS ADVENTURES THE BEST BEACHES WHAT WE LOVE NOW

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HAWAII

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SOME CALL IT HAWAII,

YOU CAN CALL IT HOME

E Komo Mai, Welcome home. There’s no place on earth like the Big Island. Living in Hawaii is a lifetime of paradise. Brookfield Residential Hawaii’s new luxury communities, KaMilo at Mauna Lani Resort and Holua Kai at Keauhou, are two of the best places to call home. Explore our most extraordinary collection of residences on the Big Island, Hawaii.

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Holua Kai at Keauhou Set amidst a pictureperfect location, this new oceanfront

DISCOVER

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EXPLORE

Experience it all at KaMilo at Mauna Lani Resort, where island living is at its fi nest. Located on the sunny Kohala Coast, this private resort-style community is surrounded with unmatched natural beauty of the beautiful mountain vistas and magnificent golf course, capturing the essence of sophisticated island living. New single-family and paired homes are available ranging from approximately 1,653 to 2,491 square feet. Make KaMilo yours. Pricing from $900Ks to $2M

KaMilo at Mauna Lani Resort A true tropical paradise, the KaMilo lifestyle extends beyond your front door. Enjoy two-acres of private resort-style amenities every day of the year.

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Island Life

EXPERIENCE

Beyond your front door, enjoy the luxurious resort-style amenities found in our private recreation centers. With world-class beaches, shopping, dining and resort amenities only moments away, it's easy to see why many feel KaMilo at Mauna Lani and Holua Kai at Keauhou are two of the best places to call home! It's a lifetime of paradise.

Our new homes in Hawaii embrace island living at its finest and it can only be experienced here.

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OVER THE MOON, LEFT AT CLOUD NINE, JUST PAST SEVENTH HEAVEN, FIRST RIGHT IS...

KŪKI‘O

KŪKI‘O GOLF AND BEACH CLUB The Big Island of Hawai‘i’s elite private residential community. kukio.com | 808.325.4040

CONTENTS 2

26 WELCOME TO HAWAI‘I Big Views, Big Island

60 MASTERS OF ART & CUISINE Expertly crafted for your dining pleasure

34 KONA COAST From Kailua to Ka‘ū

72 WHAT WE LOVE NOW Trending culinary experiences

48 KOHALA COAST The Sunny South and Historic North

76 THE HOT SPOT Meridia at The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort

100 EAST SIDE From Lush Tropics to Fiery Kīlauea Volcano

78 CULINARY Q&A Executive Chef James Babian

8 LOCAL VIBE This 'n that Hawai‘i style

80 SOULFUL SIPPERS As the seasons change, it's time to venture into bolder selections

18 WHY DON'T YOU... Try these Big Island experiences 22 LOCAL RAVES & FAVES My Hawai‘i 36 VALLEY OF THE KINGS The mighty, verdant valley of Waipi‘o 44 LEARNING TO GROW Explore the school gardens in Waimea

84 EPIC EPICUREAN EVENTS Celebrate the good life with world-class chefs 94 PU'U WA'AWA'A An enchanted hike amid native plants 101 PELE'S WORLD Sculpting the land with ﬁre

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Oceanfront Dining

Four Seasons Resort HualÄ lai Reservations 808 325 8000

fourseasons.com/hualalai

CONTENTS

GOLF | 50

BIG ISLAND T R AV E L E R

THE LIFE & STYLE OF HAWAI‘I

PUBLISHER Kevin Geiger

EDITOR IN CHIEF Mun Sok Geiger

DINING | 64

Kirk Lee Aeder Eric Franke Ekua Impraim Krystal Kakimoto Natalia Mastrascusa Brooke Rehmann Peter A. Thoene Capture Hawai‘i

COPY EDITOR

Brooke Rehmann

COVER IMAGE Eric Franke

ADVENTURE | 90 EVENTS | 110

BEACHES | 104 4

Reproduction in whole or in part without permission from the publisher is prohibited. Traveler Media makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information supplied in this publication. However, due to unavoidable circumstance of change, whether from the forces of nature or manmade, the information is not guaranteed. Traveler Media is not responsible or liable in any way for any loss or damage incurred resulting from the information supplied in any and all forms of media or communications.

MADE IN THE USA BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP LT) MAUNA KEA BEACH HOTEL; (TOP RT) INDICH COLLECTION; (MID LEFT) CAPTURE HAWAI'I / NATALIA MASTRASCUSA; (BOTTOM RIGHT) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM

SHOP | 52

CONTRIBUTORS

Build. Awe. Ke Kailani oceanfront community provides a compelling design-build opportunity in Mauna Lani Resort. Featuring abundant amenities and priced lower than any oceanfront development in the area, Ke Kailani is ready for your custom home project.

(808) 238-0900 | KeKailani.com

FLEXIBLE DESIGN

UTILITIES INSTALLED

ELEVATED PADS

PRIVACY FEATURES

OPEN SPACES

RESORT AMENITIES

GOLF LIVING

Carrie Nicholson

Pam Deery

Jan Nores

808.896.9749| Carrie@HawaiiLife.com

808.756.1548| Pam@HawaiiLife.com

808.895.5445| Jan@HawaiiLife.com

OCEANFRONT COMMUNITY

VALUE POTENTIAL

PLAN READY

ALOHA

EDITOR'S NOTE Lucky we live Hawaiÿi is a sentiment shared among locals. It seems extra true these days in spite of the enormous amount of properties destroyed from the dramatic eruptions from Kïlauea. Material things are replaceable, but lives are not—and, thank God, no lives were lost. The generous ways the communities and businesses came together to help those affected by the recent flows by setting up fundraisers and charitable drives to collect much needed items like clothes, blankets, toys, and places to stay was pure aloha. The “world’s most active volcano” certainly has lived up to its moniker; and Pele, the Hawaiian fire goddess, has given plenty of visuals for the news cameras. The doom and gloom coverage of Kïlauea’s activity was a bit overwhelming and sensationalized—I received numerous texts from my worried family and friends on the mainland asking if we were okay. Since the May 3, 2018 lower Puna eruption started (Pele’s World, p. 101), life has been the same for most Big Islanders—another day living in paradise with stunning beaches, tranquil waterfalls, vibrant flowers, gorgeous reefs and lush valleys. After all, the volcanic hotspot formed all the islands in the Hawaiian chain. Places of such beauty and wonder like Waipiÿo (Valley of the Kings, p. 36) on the Kohala Mountain and Puÿu Waÿawaÿa, which formed from an explosive volcanic event over 100,000 years ago on Hualälai. Take a day hike to the top of the “Jello Mold,” as it’s locally known, for spectacular views of the entire West Side of the island, Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea, Kohala, and Maui (Puÿu Waÿawaÿa, p. 94). 6

The Big Island is growing in every sense of the word. With over 700 acres of new land added to the East Side, Kïlauea continues to reshape our coastline. While in Waimea, two elementary schools are growing gardens and shaping the young minds of our future. Waimea Country School and Waimea Middle School have implemented hands-on learning of crucial subjects like science and math with the fundamentals of cultivating a healthy garden (Learning to Grow, p. 44). The students tend to the various plants making sure each gets the right amount of sunlight, water and nutrients for optimum output. The programs teach the kids the value of growing their own food; and they enjoy learning important skills in a living outdoor classroom. There are many other reasons we are lucky to call this wonderland our home. If you spend a little time here you will discover how unique and diverse the Big Island truly is. We fell in love with the beautiful beaches, climate, the abundance of farmers markets, hiking trails, vast landscapes and the genuine aloha. Once you have experienced the natural attractions and the charming towns, you, too, may never want to leave. Warmest aloha, Mun Sok Geiger Editor in Chief BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

LOCAL VIBE

WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

ONLY IN HAWAI‘I

The reefs of Hawaiÿi are full of numerous colorful and interesting fishes and the Potter’s angelfish doesn’t disappoint. Intricate markings cover the Centropyge potteri, which resembles a zebra pattern or thumbprint on its orange and blue body. This striking little fish enjoys the protection of coral reefs found here in the warm Pacific. Found nowhere else on earth, the Potter’s angelfish’s tiny body allows it to dart in and out of reefs with ease while on the lookout for food and shelter. Feeding primarily on algae, Potter’s angelfish spend most of their time near the bottom of a reef where their food is more likely to be found. This is similar to other members of the angelfish family, except that it does not eat sponges, making it even more unique. Their comb-like teeth and small mouths make it easier for them to scrape the rocks, harvesting their food in an unusual way. One thing especially interesting is that Potter’s angelfish can experience a sex reversal from female to male. This occurs if a dominant female notices that a master of a harem of smaller, lighter, less colorful females is missing during which time she takes over the harem in his place. Though this fish is found only in Hawaiÿi, there is no known name for it in the Hawaiian language.

LIKE DA KINE

Big kine? Small kine? No, it’s da kine. This is the one local lingo you will hear countless times everywhere you go in Hawaiÿi. You ever have that one word that slips your mind inconveniently elusive in the exact moment you need it? Fortunately, the Hawaiian Pidgin English language has the perfect solution for all the temporarily wordless wordsmiths out there. Da kine is used as a filler word for any object that a speaker would like to refer to, but either can’t think of its name or prefers to be ambiguous. It can be used anyway the speaker chooses—it’s the word you use when you don’t use the word according to a surfing dictionary. “Da” can be substituted for “the,” and “kine” is the equivalent to “kind.” However, “the kind” doesn’t tell us much—da kine what? Interestingly, da kine can be used as a noun or adjective, depending on the context of the situation and sentence you’re using it. Are you looking for something, and you can’t find da kine? Or maybe you’re on the lookout for da kine meal. Or you ran into da kine at the gas station. Whatever it is you’re looking for or trying to say, if the word you’re scouring your brain for remains elusive, just remember that it’s da kine. 8

GO LOCO!

In terms of traditional food found here, the loco moco is about as local and comforting as you can go and is a great representation of Hawaiian soul food. Believed to have originated in Hilo in the 1940s, the loco moco has since spread in popularity across the Pacific Islands from Samoa to Japan, and even to the U.S. mainland and has been featured on shows aired on the Travel Channel and Food Network. The basic loco moco is a scoop of white rice topped with a hamburger patty and a fried egg, then smothered in brown gravy. However, there are many variations of the staple. Meat substitutions are the most common, with favorites being kälua pork, kalbi, ham, SPAM, teriyaki beef, or chicken. Loco moco may sound a little crazy, but the ingredients manage to combine deliciously. You will definitely want to nap after this very filling meal or at least wear stretchy pants. Try a loco moco with fresh seafood such as mahi-mahi or ÿahi (yellowfin tuna) for a more refined twist. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

N E W LU X U RY HOM E S I N

HAWAI‘I C A L L O R V I S I T U S TO DAY

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T H E BE S T PL AC E S TO C A L L

Home island of hawai‘i

KAMILO AT MAUNA LANI Single-Family & Paired Homes Golf Course & Mountain Views 3-4 Bedrooms, Up to 3.5 Baths From $900K's to $2M island of hawai‘i

HOLUA KAI AT KEAUHOU Single-Family Detached Homes Oceanfront Community 3-4 Bedrooms, Up to 3.5 Baths From $800K's to $2M island of k aua‘i

PILIMAI AT PO‘IPU Townhomes & Condominiums Ocean, Golf & Mountain Views 2-4 Bedrooms, Up to 3.5 Baths From $700K's to $900K's

The information provided herein is not intended to be and does not constitute an offer or solicitation to sell and shall not be used in any state where prohibited by law or where registration requirements have not been met. Equal Housing Opportunity. Model photography is for illustrative purposes only. All square footages are approximate. All renderings, floor plans and maps are artists’ conceptions. Seller reserves the right to modify or change fl oor plans, included features, specifi cations, fi nishes, pricing, incentives and availability without prior notice. © 2018 Brookfi eld Residential Hawaii.

LOCAL VIBE

DO THE BOOGIE

When it comes to water sports, surfing gets most of the attention here, which is not surprising since the sport was born in Hawaiÿi. But boogieboarding (or bodyboarding) along our shores can provide just as many fun opportunities to hit the waves—plus it’s much easier. Boogieboarding has been adapted from the long wooden boards of the ancient Hawaiians into a much smaller, wider board thanks to Tom Morey, who invented the Boogie Board and named it that because of his love of music. Today, the typical boogieboard is made from foam, making it lightweight and inexpensive. Boogieboarding is something anyone can try as long as they are comfortable in the ocean. Potential firsttime riders, and even more experienced riders from other areas of the world should heed some advice in regards to our unpredictable ocean conditions. First, find the perfect waves for your skill level! For newbies, look for waves around one to five feet in height as well as a 10

lifeguarded beach. Also, be sure that the waves break in a particular pattern and aren’t too unpredictable or choppy. Be mindful of steep shorebreaks to avoid serious injury, because the powerful waves can slam you into the ground beneath. You also want to be mindful of what’s below you like sharp rocks and reefs. Be mindful of other riders and be sure to take turns catching waves. Keep in mind that surfers have the right of way, so if you’ve selected a popular surfing location without any other boogieboarders, consider choosing a different beach. Some beaches on the Big Island, such as Magic Sands, Häpuna Beach, Kaunaÿoa Beach (Mauna Kea Beach), Honl’s Beach along Ali‘i Drive in Kailua-Kona, and Honoliÿi Cove north of Hilo, are great for boogieboarding. Ask lifeguards, concierges and locals for other locations and local knowledge/tips—most are happy to share. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

LOCAL VIBE

SWEET & SOUR Any dedicated food shopper here in Hawaiÿi knows that berries do not come cheap. Mostly grown on the mainland, the cost of blueberries, raspberries and blackberries costs a good chunk of change. Many visitors and even residents don’t know about our state’s very own berry, the ÿöhelo. The ÿöhelo, which is related to the cranberry, grows predominantly on the upper slopes of the Big Island and Maui above the 2,000-ft. elevation mark. This berry grows on bushes ranging from dwarf sizes at 2-feet tall to medium-sized at up to 10-feet. Starting as a beautiful, colorful red or yellow bell-shaped flower, this berry can come in a range of colors, from red, pink, yellow, bluish purple, and almost every color in between. They can be tart or sweet depending on ripeness, which the color does not indicate. However, the ÿöhelo looks similar to another berry growing in the same region 12

with red berries called the ÿäkia, which happens to be poisonous. Before taking a bite of any berries found in the wild, be sure to doublecheck that you are in fact eating an ÿöhelo. ÿÖhelo are popular with nënë (Hawaiian goose), and they help to spread their seeds around. Ancient Hawaiians considered ÿöhelo to be a sacred plant, and would offer a branch of the berries to the fire goddess Pele before consuming any for themselves. Today, ÿöhelo are used to make delicious jams and jellies or to be eaten raw directly off the plant. Nonetheless, there is a restriction of one quart of berries per person, per day if picked within Hawaiÿi Volcanoes National Park. If you find yourself along the slopes of Kïlauea or Mauna Loa, look carefully for these delicious little delicacies.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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Hawaiÿi doesn’t have a shortage of interesting bird life, many of which only call our islands home. Yet, one endemic bird that few people know about is the koloa maoli, or the native duck. Yes, Hawaiÿi has its very own species of duck, which looks similar to a standard female mallard. The koloa maoli have been living in the Hawaiian Islands for over thousands of years and have their own unique characteristics. Both the male and female are generally brown in color, with green or blue flight feathers, and white feathers on the border, while males have a darker head and neck. Even though the koloa maoli looks similar to a standard mallard duck, those invasive birds are becoming quite a nuisance to the survival of the native ducks, as hybridization, or cross-fertilization of viable eggs across species, is reducing the population of the indigenous 14

duck. Efforts across the islands to limit the release and population of common mallards have helped to ensure the continual growth of the native ducks’ population, with the island of Kaua‘i being especially successful. Koloa maoli can also be found in Hawaiian legends, where the ducks helped protect the fierce blind warrior, Chief Imaikalani of Kaÿü, and would alert him to the presence of enemies and guide his spears. There are ways that residents and visitors can help protect the native Hawaiian duck from becoming extinct; and the first step is being aware of its existence. Reducing the release of common mallards into the wild, and reducing your encouragement of invasive ducks, which includes feeding them, can help promote better conditions to help our own native duck to thrive. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: USDA/NATURAL RESOURCES CONSERVATION SERVICE

LOCAL VIBE

NO ORDINARY DUCK

LOCAL VIBE

WHY DON'T YOU... go national.

Discover one or all five national parks on the Big Island: KalokoHonoköhau National Historical Park, Puÿuhonua o Hönaunau National Historical Park, Puÿukoholä Heiau Natinal Historic Site, Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail, and even a limited area of Hawaiÿi Volcanoes National Park like Kahuku Unit. Each beautiful park is unique and full of interesting cultural significance and historical facts.

run for fun or run for hope. Or even watch super triathletes run in a grueling race during Ironman World Championship on October 13th. The Big Island is a Mecca for athletes in training or wannabes and almost any group here will welcome you in with open arms. Run for Hope to benefit cancer research on September 9th (808) 325-8000, or join in the fun of running in a costume at the 14th Annual Jingle Bell Beach Run on December 16th (www.kona5k.com).

zip it. as you zip across a scenic waterfall or zip through a forest of trees—guaranteed to bring shrills of joy to your day and make a lasting memory. Try Kohala Zipline (808) 331-3620 or Umauma Experience (808) 201-3605.

explore beneath the surface.

The Big Island is blessed with an abundance of healthy reefs and colorful tropical species that dart in and out of coral. The inviting water beckons you to explore its clear, clean and warm environment full of unique characters. Snorkel on your own or go on a first-class cruise with individual theatre seating and scrumptious food aboard Hula Kai with Fair Wind (808) 322-2788 or Body Glove (808) 980-7513. For scuba, snorkel or sunset sails on the Kohala Coast, call Mauna Lani Sea Adventures (808) 885-7883. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (BOTTOM LEFT) UMAUMA EXPERIENCE

Ramp up your adrenaline

VOTED “BEST SNORKEL CRUISE ON THE ISLAND OF HAWAII” WEST HAWAII TODAY READER’S POLL

Award-Winning Snorkel Tours to Kealakekua Bay & Captain Cook Monument - Since 1971

Information & Reservations 808.322.2788 | Current Specials at www.fair-wind.com

LOCAL VIBE

MY HAWAI‘I NAME

KAREN FERRARA

OCCUPATION

REALTOR, ELITE PACIFIC PROPERTIES & SMALL BUSINESS OWNER

HOW LONG YOU HAVE LIVED IN HAWAI‘I MOVED FROM

ON THE BIG ISLAND 20 YEARS, AND 4 YEARS IN HONOLULU

CARMEL, CALIFORNIA (THE SECOND TIME), AND SCOTTSDALE, ARIZONA (THE FIRST TIME) Favorite beach: Hands down Mauna Kea Beach. Driving into the resort, my soul sings with anticipation to get my toes in the fine white soft sand and dunk them into the warm and welcoming Kaunaÿoa Bay. Diving into the crystal clear turquoise heavenly waters and coming up for air with salt on my lips and the tips of my eyelashes. Beach hair, don’t care—my heart is full and my soul sings. Favorite food: Chef James Babian’s cuisine at Pueo’s Osteria in Waikoloa. It’s drool worthy, fresh, and inspired fivestar authentic Italian! I also love a good fruit and specialty cheese board—never gets old! Just add a stop at Kamuela Liquor Store for a consultation with Alvin on wine and cheese pairing, my husband, friends, and our lanai or the beach and a sunset—perfect. Favorite pastime/activity: Golf brought me to Hawaiÿi in 1984 when I played collegiate golf for the University of Hawaiÿi at Mänoa. I don’t play as often as I used to, but still love to connect with friends and family on the links. Nothing more fun or relaxing than playing a round at the Jack Nicklaus-designed Hualälai Golf Course with my wonderful girlfriends—and fabulous Sid on the beverage cart always remembers my specialty lunch preference; and, of course, the homemade chocolate chip cookie at the turn hits the spot! Favorite hike: Kïholo Bay has stunning turquoise waters with swimming and kayaking opportunities, and tons of sunbathing sea turtles. Favorite custom/tradition: Aloha Friday. Hawaiÿi takes Friday’s excitement to the next level. Aloha shirts, beautiful muÿumuÿu (loose dress), lei, tropical flowers, office potlucks—there is celebratory vibe as many people knock off work early to kick start their weekend. Favorite Hawaiian band/CD: This one is tough because there are so many to love! Robert Cazimero for his unique and beautiful voice and authenticity. What a class act! And, Makana—my family and I have seen him perform several times and still talk about how great the show was. He’s handsome and funny with a Hawaiian sound all his own to impress the greats that came before him. Makana’s unique expression of slack key guitar sets the stage for a once in a lifetime show and leaves you with a deep appreciation for the land and music.

my local faves

MAUNA KEA BEACH 22

Favorite place to take in the history: Erected in 1790, the Puÿukoholä Heiau National Historic Site in Kawaihae was built to commemorate the unification of the Hawaiian Islands. Go see this impressive structure just a short walk from the car—a great educational center, guided tours, and one of the best spots to scan the coastline for whales! If you were a visitor, you would want to know: Give aloha and it will come back! Slow down, talk story, enjoy and soak in all the beauty of the people and everything this unique island has to offer. You will be enchanted and Hawaiÿi will always hold a special spot in your soul should you keep aloha in your heart.

HAPPY HOUR AT TOMMY'S

PU‘UKOHOLA HEIAU BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP) CAPTURE HAWAII / NATALIA MASTRASCUSA

Favorite place for happy hour: Tommy Bahama! Have you tried their Coconut Cloud Martini? It’s really light and refreshing, but gets you to the “happy” quickly! They have a big selection of drink specials and delicious püpü (appetizers) for happy hour; and Jason, the assistant manager, always comes over with a smile.

I F YOU R I DEA OF HAWAI I IS TH E B EACH,

why would you live anywhere else? Let nothing come between you and the sea, sand and sky. Let nothing come between you and the legendary resort that created and has defined island luxury for generations. The Mauna Kea Resort. Here are the island’s most spectacular oceanfront residences — literally steps from your home to the soft sands and warm waters of what is considered to be Hawaii’s best beach. Construction is under way and reservations are being accepted. Please be in touch to schedule a visit with us at the beloved Mauna Kea Resort. Residences from $1.5 to $8 million

808.557.8689

Info@MaunaKeaLiving.com

For Hapuna Beach Residences, obtain the Developer’s Public Report for a Condominium required by Hawaii law and read it before signing a binding sales contract. No federal or state agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of these properties. This does not constitute an offer to sell or a solicitation of any offer to buy where prohibited by law.

ALOHA

HAWAIâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I THE BIG ISLAND

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Indelible Hawaiian memories are made at the edge of the ocean as top dancers and musicians perform and Mauna Kea chefs put on their own dazzling show featuring imu-roasted kalua pig and the island’s most bountiful buffet.

Experience the flavors of iconic Hawai‘i at the Mauna Kea.

Overlooking Kauna‘oa Bay, Manta pioneered Kohala Regional Cuisine, featuring locally sourced ingredients delivered daily.

The perfect place to experience a magnificent Kauna‘oa Bay sunset. Mixologist-crafted cocktails, tap beers and wine complement shareable, tapas-inspired dishes.

Casual dining in a beachside atmosphere, with fresh fish grilled just so, imaginative kabobs and island-fresh salads.

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ALOHA

nthusiasts from beachgoers, snorkelers, divers, hikers, golfers, big-game fishers, stargazers and nature lovers all can satisfy their cravings for the best of the best all on one Big Island. The Island of Hawai‘i is home to world-class golf, beaches, diving and stargazing sites. Two of the most common adjectives to describe the Island of Adventure are contrast and diversity. You can ski the snow-capped Mauna Kea, trek across a desolate desert, and walk through a verdant tropical rainforest all in one day. Kïlauea, one of the planet’s most active and most visited volcanoes, brings both destruction and creation. Four out of the five main climate zones exist here from near desert to sub-arctic tundra. The Big Island is home to the world’s largest volcano—Mauna Loa, the most active volcano—Kïlauea, and according to the Guinness Book of Records, the tallest mountain— Mauna Kea when measured from its base on the ocean floor to its highest peak. 28

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

8oz Filet Mignon with Spicy Garlic Cream Shrimp, Garlic Butter Green Beans

Surrounded by the historic King’s Trail featuring petroglyphs and lava fields, Roy’s Waikoloa offers an exclusive dining experience with exceptional food and outstanding service.

Dine with us and enjoy the bounty of Hawaii Island with the freshest local ingredients, the creative talents of our chefs and a grand view overlooking the Kings’ Course fairway and lake.

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ALOHA

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The Island of Hawai‘i was born from five separate shield volcanoes, from oldest to youngest, Kohala (extinct), Mauna Kea (dormant), Hualälai (dormant), Mauna Loa (active, last erupted 1984) and Kïlauea (very active). Kïlauea means “spewing” or “much spreading” and it lives up to its name. The volcano has been erupting non-stop since January 3, 1983 and has added more than 543 acres of land. The youngest Hawaiian volcano is Lö‘ihi, an active submerged volcano that lies 3,200 feet below sea level, 18 miles southeast of Hawai‘i Island and has been erupting since 1996. With continued volcanic activity, it is believed that Lö‘ihi will eventually breach sea level and later attach at the surface onto Kïlauea. Presently, this event is predicted to happen about 100,000 years in the future. The Big Island has 266 miles of breathtaking coastline with some of the most beautiful, unique beaches found anywhere. You will find yourself enjoying the best of water recreation on sands from white to black, and gold to green. Hawai‘i Island has a landmass of approximately 4,028 square miles and represents 62 percent of the total land area of the Hawaiian Islands. Because it is nearly twice the size of all the other Hawaiian Islands combined, and to avoid confusion of the state’s name, Hawai‘i Island is often referred to as the Big Island. It is said that King Kamehameha the Great named the unified islands after his birthplace, the island of Hawai‘i. Not only is the land amazingly diverse, so are its residents. According to the 2000 U.S. Census Bureau, Hawai‘i County is the most ethnically diverse county in the United States with more than 28 percent of its residents claiming two or more races in their heritage. You will find the evidence of various influences from Asia to Europe most apparent in the delicious island cuisine. Blending favorite ingredients brought by multiple

ethnic immigrants, modern Hawaiian cuisine is truly a fusion of many favorites BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

IMAGE BY ERIC FRANKE

ALOHA

The world famous spirit of Aloha is the central beauty that engulfs the island, welcoming visitors with warm smiles. from Polynesia, Japan, Korea, Portugal, China, Philippines and America. Try some local favorites such as plate lunch, loco moco, ‘ahi poke, galbi and, of course, kälua pig. Hawai‘i Island is also home for diversified agriculture worth over $300 million annually, including a beef industry that generates revenues of nearly $20 million, producing over five million pounds of beef annually on approximately 650,000 acres of grass. It’s probably difficult for some people to fathom that a magnificent tropical paradise is home for paniolo (cowboys), ranches and rodeos. Parker Ranch is one of the largest and oldest privately owned ranches in the United States and owns about 175,000 acres on the Big Island. Other agriculture includes macadamia nuts, papaya, avocados, tropical and temperate vegetables, Kona coffee, and flowers. Because of Hawai‘i Island’s reputation of growing copious beautiful orchids, it has earned the nickname “the Orchid Isle.” Science and technology have also found a place on the Big

Island. There are 13 telescopes including four of the biggest and most advanced on top of Mauna Kea, the world’s premier location for observing the sky with exceptionally clear images and clear nights for stargazing. The Natural Energy Lab of Hawai‘i (NELHA) operates an innovative ocean science and technology park where they are exploring the deep sea for discovery of natural organisms that can be used as drugs and cures for the improvement of human health. NELHA has already completed numerous groundbreaking projects creating major commercial development such as turning desalinated deep seawater into ultra-pure bottled drinking water. Along with the beauty of the land, rich traditions, history and culture are seen throughout the island. The world famous spirit of Aloha is the central beauty that engulfs the island welcoming visitors with warm smiles. So after you explore the very diverse, very awe-inspiring Big Island, take home and share the spirit of Aloha.

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DESTINATIONS

KONA COAST

Sunny Kailua-Kona is a busy seaside village consisting of many historic sites tucked among the open-air shops and oceanfront restaurants along the banyan-shaded Ali‘i Drive. Kailua was once established as the capital of the newly unified Kingdom of Hawai‘i by King Kamehameha I. Later the capital was moved to Lahaina then to Honolulu. Kona is home to the world-renowned Ironman Triathlon and big game fishing. Next to the active Kailua Pier with cruise ships, deep-sea fishing charters, sunset cruises and glass bottom tours, King Kamehameha I maintained his royal residence at Kamakahonu until his death in 1819. Ahu‘ena Heiau is a thatched shrine guarded by sacred wooden images restored by King Kamehameha the Great in 1812 to honor the god Lono. Significant history was made on the royal compounds when Liholiho, who became King Kamehameha II, dined with the women breaking one of the most rigorous kapu. This bold act brought on the abandonment of the ancient kapu system and opened the door to Christianity. Hawai‘i’s oldest Christian church was originally a thatch hut built in 1820 when the missionaries arrived aboard the Thaddeus traveling over 18,000 miles from Boston. Moku‘aikana Church was rebuilt in 1837 from an abandoned heiau made of lava and crushed coral. Across the street is Hulihe‘e Palace, which once served as a vacation residence for Hawaiian royalty. Today it houses a collection of beautiful furniture and rare collections. Traveling south on Ali‘i Drive, you will come upon some beautiful beaches to swim, snorkel and bask in the sunshine. Head up to Hölualoa, a quaint little town surrounded by lush tropical foliage, and visit the art galleries, antique stores and charming boutiques. Just south of Kailua lies Keauhou, the birthplace of King Kamehameha III and home to important historical sites. Kuamo’s Battle Burial Grounds dates back to 1819 where an estimated 300 Hawaiians were killed and Ku‘emanu 34

Heiau is an ancient surfing temple next to St. Peter’s Catholic Church. Kealakekua Bay, a marine reserve, offers outstanding snorkeling with a wide variety of colorful fish and spinner dolphins plaingy close to shore. Captain Cook’s Monument rises across the bay where he was killed in 1779. Pu‘uhonua O Hönaunau, Place of Refuge, with its heiau and wooden images of Native Hawaiian gods makes this sacred spot a must-see. Beautiful landscapes captivate you in south Kona with splendid coastlines that hug the highway and charming little towns giving you glimpses of what life was like in Old Hawai‘i. Cultivated on the slopes of Hualälai and Mauna Loa, the worldfamous Kona coffee with its deliciously rich flavor, thrives in their perfect climate. If you are seeking seclusion or tranquility, there is plenty just south of the Kona Coast in Kä Lae, the southernmost point of the U.S. This is where the first Polynesians were thought to have landed around 400 A.D. Be inspired as Mark Twain was by the raw beauty of the Ka‘ü district with its breathtaking views of the coastline and catch an unforgettable sunset on one of the unique, beautiful black or green sand beaches. Mark Twain wrote about his journey through Ka‘ü as, “Portions of that little journey bloomed with beauty. Occasionally we entered small basins walled in with low cliffs, carpeted with greenest grass, and studded with shrubs and small trees whose foliage shone with an emerald brilliancy. One species, called the mamona [mamani], with its bright color, its delicate locust leaf, so free from decay or blemish of any kind, and its graceful shape, chained the eye with a sort of fascination. The rich verdant hue of these fairy parks was relieved and varied by the splendid carmine tassels of the ‘ö‘hia tree. Nothing was lacking but the fairies themselves.” BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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s the youngest Hawaiian island, much of the Big Island’s landscape differs significantly from the other main islands. On the older islands of Kauaÿi and, O‘ahu in particular, the once massive volcanoes have evolved into mountain ranges, hills, canyons, and valleys. On much of the Big Island, the sides of the still intact massive shield volcanoes gently slope from the peaks down toward the ocean. Lava fields abound on the Big Island, reminding you just how new some of its surface is. However, on the Big Island’s oldest and northernmost volcano, Kohala, lava has not flowed in well over 60,000 years and the land is even older. It’s a place where time and erosion have carved out spectacular valleys, and ample rain and fertile volcanic soil have filled them with lush green vegetation. On the eastern edge of Kohala Mountain is Waipiÿo Valley, the largest of the valleys and a place with a particularly storied history. Waipiÿo Valley is known as “Valley of the Kings,” and as the name suggests, it was once home to Hawaiian royalty, known as aliÿi. King Kamehameha I was raised in Waipiÿo, and it is believed that in the late 1700s, it was here that he received word that he would one day unite the Hawaiian Islands. At the time, there were many warring aliÿi across the islands, and Kamehameha I did indeed fulfill his goal of uniting the islands and ending the constant fighting. The fertile Waipiÿo Valley was home to thousands of Hawaiians 38

in ancient times and once held many heiau (temples), taro farms, fishponds, and burial grounds. It was also once home to Pakaÿalana, which was an important heiau especially because it was just one of three major puÿuhonua (places of refuge) on the Big Island. Places of refuge were safe havens for those trying to escape wars or death if they broke the strict kapu (laws) of ancient Hawaiÿi. At the time of western contact, it is believed that around 2,000 to 4,000 people lived in Waipiÿo, but the population declined as the native Hawaiians fell victim to western diseases. During Hawaiÿi’s sugar plantation era in the late 1800s, immigrants from China settled in Waipiÿo Valley, and it was home to a fully functioning town with a few hundred people. It once housed businesses, a temple, a church, and even a jail. After a major tsunami on April 1, 1946 swept across the valley and destroyed much of it, the majority of the residents left. Visiting Waipiÿo today may feel like going back in time, but in reality, it is much quieter and slower now than it used to be. In contrast to the thousands and then hundreds that used to live there, today only a few dozen people live in Waipiÿo Valley. Life down in the valley revolves around taro farming; and people live simple lives that are far removed from many modern conveniences. To get a good glimpse of the mighty verdant valley, travelers can visit the Waipiÿo Lookout, which can be easily accessed via the town BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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of Honokaÿa. It provides spectacular views of the nearly 2,000 foot cliffs, the valley below, and the rugged coastline of Kohala Mountain. If you go down to the bottom to explore the valley floor, more stunning views of the valley and a mile long black sand beach await. If the scenery of Waipiÿo looks familiar upon first glance, it’s possible that you’ve seen it in the movie Waterworld starring Kevin Costner as the last scene of the movie was filmed there. From the valley floor, you can also get a glimpse of Hiÿilawe, the tallest waterfall on the Big Island, which plunges 1,450-feet down into Waipiÿo Valley. While many attempt to hike to the waterfall, it is important to note that much of the hike goes through private property and it can be treacherous during poor weather conditions, so it is not recommended. Due to the terrain and steep incline of the road down to Waipiÿo Valley, getting into the valley can be challenging. Some opt to park at the top and then hike down into the valley. If you hike, keep in mind that there are no services in Waipiÿo Valley and it’s a steep hike back up, so you’ll need to bring all the water, food, rain gear, and sunscreen you’ll need down with you. Experienced hikers looking for an overnight adventure can also hike up and down the next slope along the Muliwai Trail into the even more remote Waimanu Valley. If you’re driving down to the floor of Waipiÿo Valley, a four-wheel drive vehicle is required, and it is not recommended (or may not even be allowed) to drive a rental car into the valley. If hiking or driving isn’t an option, there are several different tour operators that take people down into the valley. In January 2016, Big Island residents were shocked when one of Waipiÿo Valley’s largest landowners, the Bishop Museum, announced that it planned to sell over 500 acres of land that it owns in the historically and culturally significant Waipiÿo Valley—nearly 70% of the valley. Much of the land they own is leased to taro farmers, and there are concerns about the future of the valley if it changes ownership. At the moment, there is still no buyer, and if one does come along, the fate of Waipiÿo Valley is uncertain. For now, Waipiÿo remains a quiet valley. Although it’s much calmer today than its prior incarnations, the valley retains its mana (power) and magnificence from the days when it was a land of royalty. 40

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PHOTO COURTESY: (RIGHT/OPPOSITE) HOLLY SARGEANT -GREEN; (LEFT) CAPTURE HAWAI'I

“The glory of gardening: hands in the dirt, head in the sun, heart with nature. To nurture a garden is to feed not just the body, but the soul.” — Alfred Austin

ow do you grow a future? What are the ingredients necessary to ensure that younger generations will practice the skills necessary for a sustainable life, a life that will honor the island they live on and help promote a better tomorrow? Two schools located in the small upcountry community of Waimea, both with different philosophical approaches and working with different age groups, are attempting to tackle this question hands on. By providing students with the tools necessary for a healthier life, Waimea Country School and Waimea Middle School’s gardens are planting the seeds for a brighter future. Every farmer takes a chance on the future; by sowing seeds today, they hope for a potential outcome down the line. Educators, in that regard, are like gardeners. We see references to this concept in our everyday educational landscape, as children’s first year of school is called kindergarten, translated from German to mean “children’s garden.” It is there, the prevailing thought goes, that children will begin the process of blossoming into fullymyhawaiitraveler.com

fledged thinking adults. It is only natural, then, that these two ideas become intertwined. To see this idea brought to life, I spoke with Amy Salling, head of Waimea Country School, and Amanda Rieux, Program Director of Mälaÿai: The Culinary Garden of Waimea Middle School, to get a better idea of how they approach their garden project and why they have become such a important part of their schools’ culture. Waimea Country School (WCS) is located on the backside of a small church in Waimea. There, mixed age group classrooms from K-5 take part in their outdoor gardening program, where the students are responsible for the caretaking and maintenance of the garden. Amy shared that their garden is not a production garden, but an experimental one, growing plants that the children were interested and motivated in growing instead of being told what they had to grow. “We wanted it to be very much a learning garden. We wanted children to find out where food comes from and for the garden to be very integrated into the classroom.” 45

has helped shape the garden over the last 13 years. Here, the students come out during various specific classes, and lessons are integrated as often as they can be, while still maintaining the integrity of the garden curriculum. STEM is a popular term in education these days, and it stands for Science Technology Engineering and Math. Gardening experiences promote all of these subjects, not in an abstract way, but in a hands-on fashion. Amanda mentions that students who might not be the ones finding success inside the classroom often have a different experience outside, relishing in the real responsibilities that a living breathing garden can provide. “We want the kids to feel valued,” she says. Honoring the sense of place, or the context, that the children live in is also something that seems to run through both gardens. What will grow well in their unique spaces? What will struggle? How does one know this without experimentation? Should the teachers tell them, or should the students discover the knowledge on their own? And which type of experience is more likely to lead to lasting knowledge? Amanda’s garden integrates a sense of place by incorporating curriculum that studies the local and historical properties of their garden space. They engage in Hawaiian protocol before entering the garden each time. The students know they are here, in Hawaiÿi, in a specific place and time. Meanwhile, at WCS, the children learn where food comes from, and not everything has to come off the shelves of BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (LEFT, BOTTOM RT, OPP. TOP LT, OPP. RIGHT) CAPTURE HAWAI'I; (BOTTOM RT. OPP. BOTTOM LT) HOLLY SARGEANT -GREEN

By allowing the children to come into the garden each day during lunch and recess, the garden is embedded into school life. Children can come and graze on the food that’s growing, picking a sprig of mint to munch on, or nibbling on some beans growing on their beanpole teepee. Sometimes, just simply watching for caterpillars and butterflies within the confines of the arbor covered by passion fruit vines is enjoyment enough. WCS also combines gardening with art in a program the school calls GART. It includes a mixed-age group of students from the 2nd through 5th grades, where the classes alternate between working in the garden and working on art projects. These types of curriculum attempt to teach the whole child, not just the so-called “intellectual” facets of education. By treating education in a holistic fashion, the goal is to create well-rounded individuals. Much as a gardener or farmer amends the soil, the sunlight, the water, and the nutrients for optimum output, educators must take into account the whole child. “We need to teach kids not to be afraid,” Amy says, “These are teaching moments.” Over at Waimea Middle School (WMS), Amanda discusses the progression of the garden from an empty space to a neatly manicured oasis. Over to the one side of the garden, a large chicken coop sits beside a peaceful bamboo enclosure, which is meant to be a quiet, reflective place. Walls are covered with the values of the garden as well as pictures of its progress and handprints of each student who

a store. Living on islands in the middle of a vast ocean can include challenges like food shortages, and Amy’s vision includes teaching children the skills to promote more sustainable living. Without support from the community, the school garden programs at Waimea Country School and Waimea Middle School wouldn’t be the successes they are today. For WCS, the inclusion of families, the support of the Aikane Nursery located in Hawi as well as the Big Island Chocolate Festival, and grants from various stakeholders have all helped to make their garden dream a reality. A plant sale each April helps raise proceeds that goes directly to the garden. Families are welcome to use the garden for their own households, and invited to help take care of the garden both during and after school time. Volunteers help maintain the garden when school is out of session, and visitors are welcome to tour the facility when scheduled in advance. At WMS, volunteers work alongside Nä Kälai Waÿa, an educationbased open ocean sailing society. Amanda also works across the state helping design garden-focused curriculum that can be implemented beyond the Waimea and Big Island community. Volunteers are also encouraged to help maintain the garden and become a part of the broader school community. Marilyn Fitzgerald, a volunteer at the Mälaÿai Garden, comes and helps prepare snacks from the food that is harvested. When asked why gardens like these are so important, Marilyn says, “The students really enjoy eating what they’ve grown and myhawaiitraveler.com

also learn about a healthy diet.” It takes a village to teach children the skills necessary for a healthy, happy future. “It’s not just who we are from a curricular perspective, but it enhances the culture, the aesthetic, and the kids just love it,” Amy says. Meanwhile, Amanda shares a similar mindset. “This garden gives us a sense of place, a sense of identity. It’s who we are.” When you’re growing a tomorrow, having the input and enthusiasm of the children as well as the community is what it will take for the garden to reach its full promise, both from an agricultural as well as educational perspective. And what could be more important when there’s a future to nurture? Waimea Country School is located at 65-1237 Kawaihae Road in Waimea behind St. James Episcopal Church. Volunteers and visitors are welcome with advance communication. Each April, they offer a plant sale, with proceeds directly supporting the garden. For more information about the school and garden, visit waimeacountryschool.org or call the office at (808) 885-0067. Mälaÿai: The Culinary Garden of Waimea Middle School are located besides the newest building of the school. Volunteers are welcome. To learn more about the garden, as well as curriculum ideas for educators, visit malaai.org. 47

Historic North & Sunny South Out of the first section of the Big Island to rise from the sea lies spectacular white sand beaches, world-renowned golf, luxurious resorts and spas, and a chic offering of restaurants and shops. Besides the plush effects, the weather also gives the Kohala District the nickname “the Gold Coast.” The sunniest destination on the island boasts both nationally-ranked beaches and some very secluded hidden gems. Add some swaying palm trees and incredible sunsets and you will call it paradise. The multiple hues of blue from the crystal clear water and green from the fairways are a dramatic contrast against the black lava fields that line the majestic coastline. Beautiful views of Mauna Kea and Maui are included along with major provocative history that unified the islands of Hawai‘i. The Pu‘ukoholä Heiau in Kawaihae is a significant historical site for the statehood of Hawai‘i. King Kamehameha built the heiau with strict guidelines to dedicate it to his family war god, to fulfill the prophecy of conquering all the islands. Kawaihae is an alluring harbor town with a handful of original shops and delectable restaurants favored by locals. It’s a great place to kick back and relax and watch the busy activities of the harbor. Fish with the locals or bask in the sunshine on a sandy beach next to the boat ramp. Travel north to Häwï and Kapa‘au. Once they were busy commercial centers during the operation of the Kohala Sugar plantation and served as large camps for many countries. Regional cuisines were shared among the workers and diversity was beautifully woven into the community. Take the time to explore the charming boutiques of Häwï to find treasures to take home with you. Be sure to come hungry and dine at the sushi restaurant, which serves creative, delectable delights with unique island flair you won’t find anywhere else. Visit the original King Kamehameha Statue commissioned by King David Kaläkaua as it stands proudly at the legendary birthplace of the Great King in Kapa‘au. The statue was intended for Honolulu, but was lost in a shipwreck off the coast of South America. Another statue was commissioned and the replica was sent to Honolulu. The original was salvaged and returned to its rightful place in Kapa‘au in 1912. A few miles past Kapa‘au, Pololü Valley Lookout offers stunning, breathtaking views of coastline and valley. The hike down is easy and you will be rewarded with a beautiful black sand beach. However, going up is a different story. Upcountry from Kawaihae, Waimea is a beautiful place still alive with its cowboy heritage that has breathtaking views of Kohala Mountain and Mauna Kea. Because it is set on higher elevation, a sweater may be needed to enjoy the surroundings. It is home to Parker Ranch, paniolo (cowboys) and rodeos and the quaint community has the feel of Colorado in springtime. Although the landscape has changed dramatically from its spectacular beginnings with prime resorts and trendy shops along the Kohala Coast, the tradition of aloha remains the true splendor of the land. 48

PHOTO COURTESY: (MIDDLE) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM

DESTINATIONS

KOHALA

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

GOLF

ISLAND GOLF HAPUNA GOLF COURSE

This Arnold Palmer/Ed Seay-designed 18-hole championship course is nestled into the dramatic natural contours of the land from the shoreline to about 700 feet above sea level. This beautiful course features spectacular vistas of the Kohala Coast and the Pacific, with snow-capped Mauna Kea volcano as a backdrop. Hapuna’s challenging play and environmental sensitivity make it one of Hawai‘i’s most unique golf courses. Tee times: (808) 880-3000.

HUALĀLAI RESORT

The Hualälai Golf Course, the first Jack Nicklaus Signature Course on the Big Island is home of the PGA Champions Tour Mitsubishi Electric Championship every January. This carefully groomed course was designed with a sense of place. Special care was taken to preserve the historic King’s Trail located on the course, and other significant cultural sites at the resort. Residents and residential guests of Hualälai along with guests of the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai may enjoy this great facility, which includes a nine-acre driving range with 27,000 square foot short game practice area. For information, please call (808) 325-8480.

MAUNA KEA GOLF COURSE

For over 40 years, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel has been the most celebrated resort in Hawaii. And Mauna Kea Golf Course, carved out of ancient lava flows by Robert

Trent Jones, Sr., is consistently ranked among the top 10 in the world. This course which emulates the legend of Hawai‘i as a golfer’s paradise, boasts the famed 3rd hole, where surging blue inlet waves thunder against a rocky black shoreline for an experience you’ll remember forever. Without changing the essential character of his father’s design, Rees Jones completed a tee-to-green renovation in the fall of 2008. (808) 882-5400.

MAUNA LANI RESORT NORTH COURSE

The North Course, becoming known as the tournament course, is a bit more difficult than the South Course, displays a much different face of Hawai‘i Golf. Built on a lava bed, it is characterized by rolling terrain punctuated by kiawe forests. Trees often come into play on this course. Number 17, a par-3 tucked into a natural lava amphitheater, is another one of the resort’s signature holes and a favorite “I was here” photo spot. Public. 18 holes. 68-1310 Mauna Lani Dr. (808) 885-6655.

MAUNA LANI RESORT SOUTH COURSE

The South Course snakes through the stark, rugged a‘a lava of the prehistoric Kaniku lava flow. Besides great golf, the challenging course offers the player a panorama of mountain and ocean views. The South Course is home to No. 15, one of the most photographed overthe-water golf holes in the world. Public. 18 holes. 681310 Mauna Lani Dr. (808) 885-6655.

WAIKOLOA RESORT BEACH COURSE

Weaving its way through rolling lava beds, down to the surf, the Waikoloa Beach Course is simply breathtaking. Designed by Rober Trent Jones Jr., this par-70, 6,566 yard course offers strategically placed water features and immaculate greens that are well guarded by the course’s 74 white sand bunkers. The crowning glory of the Beach Course is the intimidating, par 5, 502 yard 12th hole. Playing along the Pacific Ocean, the 12th hole not only offers challenging golf, it is a great place to watch humpback whales and catch splendid views of the other Hawaiian Islands. Public. 18 holes. 600 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808)886-7888.

WAIKOLOA RESORT KINGS’ COURSE

Waikoloa Kings’ Course is one of the most challenging and picturesque golf courses in Hawai‘i. This Tom Weiskopf and Jay Morrish design was named one of the top 100 on Golfweek’s 2005 “America’s Best Resort Courses” list. The Kings’ Course uniquely provides golfers the best of two worlds; golf on an island paradise offering uninterrupted views of snow-capped Mauna Kea, on a course that more closely resembles a layout along the coast of Scotland. The 7,064 yard links-style golf course is highlighted by six lakes, 83 sand traps, and wide undulating fairways. Kings’ offers a solid, strategic layout that requires a golfer to think his way around the course. Public. 18 holes. 600 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808)886-7888.

MAUNA LANI - SOUTH COURSE 50

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

M AUNA KEA GOLF COURSE, HOLE 3

HAPUNA GOLF COURSE, HOLE 10

It’s hard to believe that before 1964 golf didn’t exist on the Island of Hawai‘i. With spectacular ocean views from every hole, both the Hapuna and Mauna Kea Golf Courses are sure to take your breath away. Try your hand at Mauna Kea, a course that helped define Hawai‘i as a golfer’s paradise or experience Hapuna’s unique Scottish links-style play. Both courses are highly awarded; the Mauna Kea has ranked among Golf Digest’s Top 100 since 1969. No matter which course you choose, you’re not likely to forget it. Master the unforgettable today by calling 808-882-5405 to set up a tee time.

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STYLE

FLAWLESS STYLE

ack in 1873, a jewelery store emerged in downtown Honolulu that had the distinct honor of creating crests for Hawaiian Royalty. In the 1940s, master goldsmith Hildgund Bucky purchased the company where she was currently perfecting her style of jewelry design, renowned for superior quality and craftsmanship. The Hildgund philosophy has always been to create pieces that Hildgund Bucky, a woman of exceptional fashion and style, would be

"HILDGUND IS FOREVER SEARCHING THE WORLD FOR PRECIOUS STONES THAT ARE TRANSFORMED INTO WONDROUS WORKS OF ART BY DESIGNERS FROM HAWAI‘I AND AROUND THE GLOBE."

proud to wear herself. Today, step inside some of Hawai‘i's most prestigious resorts and you'll find Hildgund. Featuring the largest collection of internally flawless yellow diamonds in the state, you'll also find exotic colored certified gems along with Tahitian, South Sea and Freshwater Pearls. This selection complements their extensive collection of limited edition jewelry and collectible accessories for men, including hand-crafted knives from brilliant designers such as William Henry.

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BIG ISLAND • New Location On Corner of Maiau Street & Kamanu Street Across from Costco • 808.329.6500 Hand Woven • Natural Fibers Silk • Wool • Hemp • Bamboo Silk Custom Design & Sizes Available Showroom Open Every Day 10am to 6pm Free Shipping & Local Delivery (with minimum purchase)

OAHU Na Lama Kukui • 808.524.7769 Ward Avenue • 808.596.7333

MAUI Kahului • 808.877.7200 myhawaiitraveler.com

WWW.HAWAIIANRUGS.COM

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BECOME BRILLIANT Hildgund boasts a wide array of precious and semiprecious colored gems, fine jade and pearls, plus an exceptional selection of internally flawless colored diamonds in the state. With one-of-a-kind pieces like the brilliant 3.03 Carat natural pink sapphire (left) and the 4.39 Carat fancy yellow diamond, internally flawless (below). Visit their Big Island locations at Four Seasons Resort HualÄ lai, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, or Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows. Call (800) 6363306 or visit hildgund.com.

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PIECES OF PARADISE Stunning designs by Suzanne Kalan. Signature "Fireworks" bangles 18k gold with baguettecut diamonds. Prices range from $5,700 to $7,400. Available at Seaside Luxe in Hualālai Resort, home of Four Seasons Resort Hualālai.

Grand spaces deserve grand works of art, like Kaupulehu by Kristie Fujiyama Kosmides, which measures 60” high x 96” wide. This original oil painting causes you to pause for a breath of fresh, ocean air as you gaze at its endless horizon. To discover this, and more grand works of art by Hawai‘i’s master artists, visit Tiffany’s Art Agency in Hawi, or shop TiffanysArtAgency.com.

Featured here is Indich Collection's Gingko Fan design in its newest color way. Hand woven with Tibetan wool and silk accents . Indich specializes in Hawaiian, Pacific rim, and Persian style rugs and has put its artistic imprint on Hawai‘i's finest homes and resorts. Available at Indich Collection at 73-5617 Maiau St. in Kona, just above Costco. Visit indichcollectionhawaii.net or call the showroom at (808) 329-6500.

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ISLAND SHOPPING INDICH COLLECTION FINE ORIENTAL CARPETS & HAWAIIAN RUGS Indich Collection offers unique rug designs, flavored with the richness and casual elegance of the islands. Using the finest natural fibers and knowing that quality is too important to compromise, Indich Collection has created one of the most artful collections of handwoven rugs available anywhere. With the largest inventory in the Pacific and direct import Custom Design Program, you’ll find an unlimited choice of rug designs, sizes, colors and quality.. Visit our Kona Showroom…open everyday or by appointment! Add Aloha to your home. Indich Collection Showrooms: Kona Industrial Park (808) 3296500, on Oahu (808) 524-7769, on Maui (808) 877-7200 or visit hawaiianrugs.com. HILDGUND JEWELERS Founded in 1873, Hildgund is the ultimate in fine custom designs and handcrafted jewelry. Every piece unique by its elegance, every piece one of a kind. A wide selection of precious and semi-precious colored stones plus many varieties of fine jade. The almost unlimited choice of their diamond collection is only of the highest quality. Customers worldwide have returned to a Hildgund location time and again, convinced

that they have found one of the finest jewelry boutiques anywhere. On the Big Island we are located in the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai (808) 325-0606, Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows (808) 885-6617 and Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (808) 882-1861. Visit hildgund. com for store locations on Maui and Oahu. KINGS’ SHOPS The Big Island’s most exciting collection of shopping, dining and services can be found at Kings’ Shops. Visitors and residents enjoy onestop shopping that includes everything from high-end boutiques and one-of-a-kind jewelry to art galleries and activity centers to designer wear and spectacular gifts. Also home to an array of dining options, from award-winning Pacific Rim cuisine to on-the-go snacks. Located in the Waikoloa Beach Resort. Open daily from 9:30am to 9:30pm. For more information, call (808) 886-8811 or kingsshops.com. AHUALOA FARMS Ahualoa Farms sits on the slopes of Mauna Kea Volcano and began harvesting and offering great tasting macadamia nuts and Hawaiian coffee in 2005, selling products locally at farmers markets and small stores. Today, Ahualoa Farms

A CUT ABOVE

products have become highly praised and sought after worldwide. From delicious hand-picked and roasted macadamia nuts, to perfectly roasted coffees, they have something for everyone. Visit the store in Honoka‘a town or shop online at ahualoafarms.com. PERSIMMON Before you go anywhere else to shop for the trendiest clothes or gifts made in Hawai‘i, you must go to Persimmon. Persimmon offers the latest in fashion with brands like Wildfox, Saint Grace, Sundry, Seven Jeans, Goddis, Ella Moss, Free People, Maui Mari Jewelry, Hard Tail, Michael Stars, Young Fabulous & Broke, and more. This charming boutique is a local favorite for its wide selection of great gifts including, candles, journals, paper products, jewelry, shoes and even must-have body care products. Persimmon receives new merchandise every two weeks to keep you dressed in the latest styles. Persimmon offers personalized service with a warm smile. Be envied. Shop Persimmon. You will be glad you did. Open daily. Located in the Queens’ MarketPlace in Waikoloa Resort. Call (808) 886-0303 or persimmonboutique.com.

For the man who has everything, William Henry designs creates a range of tools so perfectly conceived and executed that they transcend superlative function to become superlative art. The typical knife takes more than eight months from conception to completion. The “Papakolea” Series is a Hildgund exclusive limited edition knife featuring Peridot and Koa wood named after the green sand beach in Hawai‘i. Available locally at Hildgund Jewelers, located within the Four Seasons Resort Hualālai, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows.

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QUEENS’ MARKETPLACE In addition to shopping, enjoy Hawaiian cultural performances at the Coronation Pavilion, weekly cultural offerings with our kupuna, and movies under the stars every Friday. You’re meant to enjoy this tropical marketplace with pools of lily pads and open spaces between shops offering fashionable apparel, jewelry, art and fun gifts. Located at Waikoloa Beach Resort, open daily 9:30am – 9:30pm. Call (808) 886-8822 or visit QueensMarketPlace.net. SEASIDE LUXE The true definition of resort luxury can be found directly below the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai’s hotel lobby, inside Seaside Luxe Boutique. Here you will find the world’s most premier fashion lines including the precious gems of Irene Neuwirth, a well known visual artist and one of the leading jewelry designers in the U.S. Her unique pieces are inspired by nature and her free spirit. Open daily 8:00am – 7:00pm. For more information, please call (808) 3254765. THE SHOPS AT MAUNA LANI The Shops at Mauna Lani, located in the heart of the Kohala Coast, is the place for that special combination of brand name quality and unique local craftsmanship. From designer fashions to casual beachwear, and unique custom accessories, you can find something wonderful for everyone. There are eight great dining options, from quick and casual to fine dining. Don’t miss our complimentary cultural lessons at 5:30pm on Mondays and Thursdays, followed by our famous hula show. Join us for a uniquely Hawaiian experience, located in the Mauna Lani Resort, open daily from 10 AM to 9 PM. For more information, call (808) 8859501 or visit shopsatmaunalani.com. TIFFANY'S ART AGENCY GALLERY Join us as we dive deep into Hawai‘i’s contemporary art scene, unveiling hidden local talent creating masterful works of art. It’s a gallery full of joyful creative expression and connection with exclusive shows that change monthly, 2nd Saturday Collectors Receptions, and local style “talk story” events with the featured artists. Shop online at TiffanysArtAgency.com or in the gallery and discover your wonder and inspiration as you collect art and memories made in Hawai‘i. Located in Hawi next to Sushi Rock. Call (808) 747-5882 for more information.

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Tiffany’s A A rt

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contemporary local art & home decor from Hawaii’s master artists 55-3435 Akoni Pule Hwy. #9 | Hawi, HI | next to Sushi Rock Get the FREE

Tiffany’s Art Agency App Place Art to Scale on Your Walls Shop TiffanysarTagency.com

Tiffany@TiffanysArtAgency.com | 808-747-5882 Top: Sunrise by Timothy Allan Shafto | Hawaiian koa wood, sand, & resin colorflow painting in integral koa frame | 48” h x 72” w

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MASTERS OF ART & CUISINE

WORDS COCO ZICKOS IMAGES TIFFANY'S ART AGENCY

orgeous artwork from Hawai‘i isn’t just designed to adorn walls. Many special, locally made masterpieces can be used for practical, everyday purposes. Functional fine craftwork of this nature composed specifically for culinary purposes, such as ceramics, woodworks, pewter utensils and blown glass, is on display at this year’s Chef Fest at the singular Four Seasons Resort Hualälai. This sublime culinary festival brings in top celebrity chefs from the nation! It’s not only impressive to have so much recognizable talent in one incredible location, but the fun culinary classes and unforgettable tasting events makes this an exciting time all food enthusiasts look forward to all year, every year. But it’s the products that will be presented and utilized by chefs and participants at the Annual Handmade Show that Tiffany DeEtte Shafto of Tiffany’s Art Agency

is genuinely looking forward to. Her “pop-up” gives people a chance to bring home a masterfully made product created right here on the Big Island that can be used either in the kitchen or as part of a dining experience, making any meal that much more special. “The culinary classes at Chef Fest are so much fun, and discovering functional works you can take home as a lasting reminder of your visit is pretty wonderful, too,” she says. “Each time you use that bowl, or cup, or spoon, you’re reminded of your wonderful experience in Hawai‘i.” This is the third year Tiffany’s Art Agency has participated in this event, providing an opportunity to introduce some of her favorite artists’ most elegant and useful work. “There’s a totally different energy experienced when you use a bowl or cup that’s been handmade—a richer feeling that goes along with the BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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experience,” says Shafto. “It’s been fun to light people up with it and to see some of the chefs truly embracing the use of handmade pieces in their restaurants.” Some of the artists Shafto has selected to participate in this year’s event are Zoë Johnson, Peri Enkin, Willa Marten, Tevita Kunato, as well as her husband who is a master woodworker, Timothy Allan Shafto. Others that she is looking forward to showcasing are Claire Seastone, a potter, whose earthy ceramics are flawlessly shaped into items like ramen and rice bowls, mugs, serving dishes, espresso cups and spoons. Another favorite artist of Shafto’s whose work will be represented is Doni Reisland and her elegant classic wooden sushi trays and chopsticks that make for endearing gifts. All of these artists stand out to Shafto because of the quality of their work. “They’ve mastered form and function,” she says. And for those attending Chef Fest who are seeking high-caliber work, yet still desire something to hang, Shafto is also introducing a wall exhibition, “Ingredients,” where she’s asked painters to come up with subjects that relate to the culinary experience. Finding exquisite artwork comes easily for Shafto. After a decade of volunteering within the Hawai‘i Island artistic community and publishing two coffee table books that feature award-winning artisans, Shafto got to know many talented people around the islands. Therefore, it’s been no problem for her to find artists to participate in events of this nature and also to fill her lovely, carefully curated gallery in Hawi where all kinds of fine art abound from functional to exclusively aesthetic at a variety of price points. 62

“I love artists who are pushing boundaries in their work and who consistently show up to explore the process,” she says. “The former interior designer in me is always looking for beauty and I love supporting artists who are creating it.” She’s also drawn to artists who have developed a contemporary flair that has an aloha spirit, much like what participants of the Chef Fest will find in the products that she is gathering for the super fun event. “They are inspired by beauty and work to capture and create it. Their quest for mastery is evident,” says Shafto regarding all her artists, “The work they create feels joyful.” Sharing their designs and helping creators answer their calling by participating in special activities like Chef Fest, Shafto is, in turn, harboring delight for those who take home their products and says it’s one of the most fulfilling aspects of her profession. “I love being able to foster that—to help create that moment when someone falls in love with a work of art,” she says. “As a collector, I know it’s such a wonderful feeling to discover something that speaks to you on such a level that it absolutely must follow you home and become a part of your life’s story.” Chef Fest is held at the incomparable Four Seasons Resort Hualälai September 17-20. Visit fourseasons.com/hualalai/ dining/chef_fest for more information about the scheduled events. If you missed the pop-up of Tiffany’s Art Agency at Chef Fest, you can visit her storefront at 55-3435 Akoni Pule Hwy. #9 in Hawi, next to Sushi Rock. Call (808) 747-5882 or visit TiffanysArtAgency.com. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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66 ISLAND DINING GUIDE 72 WHAT WE LOVE NOW 76 THE HOT SPOT 78 CULINARY Q&A 84 SOULFUL SIPPERS 87 EPIC EPICUREAN EVENTS

PUEO'S OSTERIA

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Fresh Flavors Served with Aloha Get a taste of paradise at The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort, home to Hawaii Islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s newest restaurants. Enjoy lunch or dinner poolside with fresh, locally inspired options from Naupaka Beach Grill. Discover our signature al fresco dining experience at Meridia, featuring a Mediterranean-inspired menu infused with Hawaii Island flavor. LEARN MORE AT WESTINHAPUNABEACH.COM/DINING.

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KOHALA COAST BEACH TREE The ocean side Beach Tree is an experience…a place to enjoy casual dining and linger longer, where the focus is on fresh, local, seasonal and handmade cuisine. The cuisine is Cal-Ital... Innovative Italian dishes infused with California flavors. Handcrafted cocktails incorporating fresh, local fruit as well as sangria and a selection of wines are also featured. At the center of the resort, it is a place to meet, connect with friends and family and celebrate lifestyle. With the combination of restaurant, lounge and bar, the experiences meet a variety of guests’ needs. The server and guest interaction promotes ‘ohana. Children’s (ages 5 – 12) menu is available. Serving lunch, dinner and drinks daily, with Hawaiian entertainment nightly from 6-8:30 p.m. Casual resort attire. Located at the Four Seasons Hualälai Resort. For reservations call (808) 325-8000 or fourseasons.com/hualalai. BIG ISLAND BURRITOS A contemporary fresh island Mexican grill featuring signature Island Style Burritos, Loaded Rice Bowls, Local Farm Salads, and Fresh Soft Tacos! We have multiple styles and flavors to choose from. Their menu features straight-forward and self-explanatory menu items and caters to foodies looking for big burritos. Located in the food court at Queens' MarketPlace in Waikoloa Beach Resort.

Brown’s Beach House. Hawai`i Island cuisine and balmy

BROWN’S BEACH HOUSE Big Island-inspired cutting edge cuisine takes center stage at The Fairmont Orchid’s Brown’s Beach House restaurant known for its expansive ocean views, incomparable cuisine and sophisticated service with Aloha. Innovative island-inspired cuisine is drawn from simple, pure flavors of locally grown produce using the diverse variety of fresh seafood from our island waters and the finest mainland meats. Open nightly for dinner beginning at 5:30 p.m. Located oceanside at the Fairmont Orchid. Call (808) 887-7368.

tropical breezes beckon. Unwind as the sun dips beneath the sea. Taste awardwinning favors featuring locally grown produce. Savor the best from the surf and the turf. Dinner served nightly from 5:30 to 8:30 pm. For reservations, call 808.887.7368 or visit fairmont.com/orchid-hawaii.

COPPER BAR After a multi-million dollar renovation, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel welcomes diners back to its iconic gathering place, the new Copper Bar. While the relaxed setting and magical sunsets remain, the bright new look and shared-plates culinary concept are shaking things up in a fun and inspired way. An elongated bar, a TV “lounge” area, an elevated communal dining table, multiple dining nooks, and open view planes accentuate the true centerpiece of Copper Bar—gorgeous panoramic views of Kauna‘oa Bay. Open daily 11am-11pm with complimentary valet parking. Located at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

7:08 pm The moment the conversation came to a standstill. Your order arrives. All eyes are transfixed on your dish. The conversation revolves around flavor, taste and freshness. And suddenly you realize you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be able to keep this place a secret for long. CALL 808 887 7368 VISIT FAIRMONT.COM/ORCHID-HAWAII

TASTE HAWAII CALLS RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Enjoy an elaborate daily breakfast buffet and a la carte menu. Salads, sandwiches and tropical drinks are available for lunch poolside or in the seated dining area. Dinner features Americanand Pacific Rim-style cuisine. Located at the Marriott Waikoloa Beach Resort. Call (808) 886-8111. THE HUALĀLAI GRILLE A classic American steakhouse with local flair. Set above the 18th green of the famed Hualälai Golf Course, Hualälai Grille evokes a contemporary club feel, with dark wood flooring and magnificent golf course and ocean views. Serving Prime steaks with hand crafted traditional sides, island fresh fish, local Hämäkua Mushrooms, and Macadamia Nut Toffee Ice Cream Pie are just a few of Chef James Ebrero’s signature dishes. The Bar offers an extensive cocktail menu including the “19th Hole” Absolute Ruby Red Vodka, fresh squeezed Kohala grapefruit and lime juices and agave nectar. In addition, Hualälai Grille’s extensive wine list includes both wines by the glass and bottle, along with a wide beer selection. Hualälai Grille is open for dinner Wednesday through Monday, with reservations available from 5:30 p.m. - 8:30 p.m. For information, please call (808) 325-8450 or (808) 325-8525. KAMUELA PROVISION COMPANY Captivating sunset ocean views are the perfect complement to enjoying our new menu. Experience our mouth-watering cuisine of the Big Island. World class service in a world class setting. Open nightly for dinner and cocktails. Reservations recommended. Located at the Hilton Waikoloa Village. Call (808) 886-1234 or HiltonWaikoloaVillage.com.. KONA TAP ROOM This new island-style beer pub offers 16 craft and domestic beers on tap, including Kona Brewing Company favorites and seasonal options, along with creative “Surftinis & Beertails” like the Paddleboard Mojito, which combines Longboard Island Lager with Bacardi, house-made specialty mix, and mint for a Hawaiian spin on the classic cocktail. A locallysourced, beer-inspired menu includes dishes like Keahole lobster mac n’ cheese, Kona poke, pulled short rib sliders topped with fried quail eggs, sweet and spicy chili-nori tater tots and Kalua pork paninis. Open daily from 11am to midnight with live entertainment from 8pm to 68

11pm (hours may change seasonally). Located at Hilton Waikoloa Village. Call (808) 886-1234 or HiltonWaikoloaVillage.com. MANTA & PAVILION WINE BAR Manta & Pavilion Wine Bar is pioneering Kohala Regional Cuisine, featuring ingredients grown and raised within a 15-mile radius especially for Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. Complementing the cuisine is a state-of-theart Enomatic wine system serving outstanding wines by the glass, many found nowhere else in the state. For the ultimate food and wine experience, join our monthly Wine Dinners. You’ll enjoy outstanding vintages paired with exquisite cuisine, and meet distinguished guests from the world of winemaking. Located at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. For reservations call (808) 882-5810. MERIDIA The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort’s new signature dining experience introduces an innovative menu inspired by the Mediterranean and infused with our island’s bounty. The fresh seasonal menu is complemented by al fresco seating, a charcuterie and crudo bar, and house made artisanal bread nook. With the use of the resort’s local herb garden and citrus, Meridia also highlights signature brand cocktails and mocktails, ensuring every handcrafted recipe is expertly mixed, shaken or stirred. Expand your culinary confides at Meridia, framed by sweeping ocean views accompanied by crafted cocktails, fine wines and attentive service. Located in The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort. NORIO’S SUSHI BAR & RESTAURANT Featuring authentic, traditional Japanese cuisine and stellar sushi. The sushi chefs bring a level of experience and quality to the Big Island normally associated with the better restaurants in Tokyo. The 15-seat custom sushi bar provides an ‘up close and personal’ culinary experience. The menu reflects a reverence for traditional Japanese delicacies, especially the exceptionally fresh seafood that he hand-selects daily. Open Thursday through Monday 5:30 p.m.-9:00 p.m. Located at the Fairmont Orchid. Call (808) 885-2000. NUMBER 3 Thirsty golfers seeking a mid-round oasis, will love the tasteful new look and tasty menus of our new golf clubhouse restaurant, “Number

3” - almost good enough to guarantee a lower score on the back nine. Share a gourmet pizza in a relaxed, casual atmosphere, along with a cold one from the tap, signature Mauna Kea cocktails or frosty fruit smoothie. Located at the Mauna Kea Golf Course. For reservations call (808) 882-5810. PUEO'S OSTERIA Pueo’s Osteria is an inviting, Italian-inspired restaurant that provides great food in a fun environment. Chef James Babian focuses on the finest Italian products paired with seafood, produce and meats from boutique farms (sourced locally whenever possible), including “farm-fresh” products from local farmers’ markets. Engaging service, approachable pricing, great flavors and food await at Pueo’s Osteria – Food, Wine & Fun … “where the night owls meet.” Happy hour daily from 4pm until 6pm, with dinner served nightly from 5:30pm, and a bar menu offered until midnight. Smart casual attire. Located in Waikoloa Highlands Shopping Center in Waikoloa Village. Call (808) 339-7566 for reservations or visit PueosOsteria.com. QUEENS’ MARKETPLACE ‘ONO FOOD COURT Food Network Star’s season eight finalist, Philip “Ippy” Aiona introduces “Ippy’s Hawaiian BBQ,” to the Queens’ Marketplace Food Court, presenting his special twist on the iconic Hawaiian plate lunch. Across the way, look for Lemongrass Express, serving Chef TK’s fresh Asian-fusion cuisine, locally sourced and full of flavor. Family favorites Hawaiian Fish N Chips, Dairy Queen/Orange Julius, Paradise Pizza & Grill and Subway Sandwiches and Salads make sure there is something for everyone in your ‘ohana! For more information, visit queensmarketplace.net. ROY'S WAIKOLOA Surrounded by the historic King’s Trail featuring petroglyphs and lava fields, Roy’s Waikoloa offers an exclusive dining experience with exceptional food and outstanding service. Located in the King’s Shops, Roy’s Waikoloa opened 17 years ago among luxury resorts, residences and boutique shops. Dine with us and enjoy the bounty of Hawai‘i Island with the freshest local ingredients, the creative talents of our chefs and a grand view overlooking the Kings’ Course fairway and lake. Call (808) 8864321 or visit royshawaii.com for reservations. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

KEAUHOU SHOPPING CENTER 78-6831 Alii Drive, Kailua-Kona tropicstaphousekona.com 808-498-4507

WAIKOLOA BEACH RESORT 69-1022 Keana Place, Waikoloa Across from the Hilton Waikoloa tropicsalehouse.com 808-886-4287

Join us for local craft beers, fresh foods, and superb hospitality! Live sports on 12 big screen TVs. Join us Sundays for all the NFL games! Open early for breakfast & drink specials.

Happy Hour 3-6 PM EVERYDAY

A contemporary , fresh island Mexican grill featuring signature islandstyle burritos, loaded rice bowls, local farm salads, and fresh soft tacos!

Try our new menu! WAIKOLOA BEACH RESORT Queens' MarketPlace - Food Court bigislandburritos.com 808-339-7993 |

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Kawaihae

Seafood Bar & Grill FRESH LOCAL FISH DAILY FRESH FISH BURGERS CLAMS STEAKS PIZZAS SALADS Daily 11am - 10pm 5-6:30 Early Bird FRESH FISH Dinner Kiawe Smoked Prime Rib ~ Tuesday Nights Best Kawaihae Restaurant Trip Advisor Best Happy Hour 3-6pm West Hawaii Today Best Seafood West Hawaii Today

808-880-9393 Air-Conditioned 61-3642 Kawaihae Road

www.seafoodbarandgrill.com

KAHILU THEATRE a r t s • e nt e r t a i n m e nt • e d u c at io n

SEAFOOD BAR & GRILL Savor the true flavors of Hawai‘i and visit Seafood Bar & Grill in the historic harbor town of Kawaihae on the Kohala Coast. Since 2002, we’ve been serving the freshest local seafood in a casual and fun atmosphere where you can sit comfortably, inside or out. Try one of our signature dishes like the Seafood Crusted Fresh Catch, Ginger Steamed Clams or our famous Fried Rice. We promise food that is both delectable and reasonably priced. You can also slide up to our beautiful 70-foot Mango wood bar and enjoy one of the island’s finest Happy Hours with well drinks, mai tais, import beers, drafts, margaritas, house wines, and more. Embracing the true “aloha spirit,” join us for a delicious dining experience you won’t forget. Call (808) 880-9393 or visit seafoodbargrill.com. STAVROS PATERAKIS, PRIVATE CHEF With 15 years of experience cooking in awardwinning restaurants on the West Coast and the Big Island, Stavros Paterakis now brings his culinary talents to the comforts of your home, vacation rental or outdoor setting to take you on a flavorful journey. From Hawaiian Regional to American classics to various ethnic cuisines, Stavros will create menus to cater to your personal tastes and needs using the freshest bounty of the Big Island. Whether it is an intimate dinner for two, family-style gathering or special event, Stavros will make it an unforgettable dining experience. References are available upon request. For bookings, call (808) 895-1654 or Squidlid@ aol.com. THE CANOEHOUSE The CanoeHouse is located oceanfront on the scenic Kohala Coast offering breathtaking views of the crystal blue Pacific. The talented and acclaimed Chef Allan Nagun has developed a market fresh menu focusing on Island fresh ingredients of Hawai‘i. We aim to provide a world-class dining experience. Located oceanfront at the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows. Call (808) 885-6622 for reservations.

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TROPICS ALE HOUSE Tropics Tap House & Ale House are “Fresh Kitchen” contemporary restaurants, craft beer bar and sports lounge concepts. The “Fresh Kitchen” movement has been inspired by a large consumer interest in local, sustainable, and in some cases, organic foods that are fused together to create amazing, fresh menu items. In addition to the food, the bar and beverage service is aimed towards craft beers that are BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

unique and seasonal, craft cocktails (using only premium liquors and garnishes), and precisely selected wines that complement our fresh food. Tropics features a “Contemporary American Grill” menu with inspiration from the wonderful local ingredients on the island. We serve plates in smaller and larger portions, ranging between $7-$17, and daily specials that vary in portion and price. Come in for Happy Hour daily. Visit us in Waikoloa Beach Resort, across from the Hilton Waikoloa, and in the Keauhou Shopping Center. Call (808) 886-4287 or visit tropicsalehouse.com for more information. ‘ULU OCEAN GRILL + SUSHI LOUNGE Showcasing a stylish blend of Hawaiian architecture and modern flair - a fun, lively, informal setting where guests are inspired, surprised and delighted by Hawai‘i’s natural beauty and the flavors of the Pacific. Casual, friendly and knowledgeable servers guide guests through a social dining experience, highlighting an innovative ocean-to-table menu with playful tableside presentation. Cuisine is prepared oven roasted, flame grilled and wok fired, and signature dishes include: Oven Roasted Whole Fish, Lobster Wonton Soup, Table-side Ahi Poke and Lilikoi Malasadas. The modern sushi

lounge and 10-seat ocean view bar feature the Island’s freshest sushi, as well as craft cocktails, sake and Japanese beers. After-dinner drinks are enjoyed in a social setting around the fire pit on the beachside terrace. For reservations call (808) 325-8000. KONA ISLAND BREEZE LŪ‘AU This award winning lü‘au is held on the historic grounds of King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel. Savor the delicious feast as you revel in the colorful costumes and dances from Polynesia. Highlights include the Royal Court arrival, imu (underground oven) ceremony, arts & crafts, and a spectacular Polynesian show with the Samoan fireknife dance finale. For reservations call (808) 326-4969 or visit islandbreezeluau.com. KEAUHOU-KONA HALEO LŪ‘AU Held under the starry skies and hala trees on the shores of Keauhou Bay, Haleo – the Voice of Life is Hawai‘i’s newest lü‘au. From the birth of Hawai‘i’s royalty to the surfing stories of He‘eia Bay, the dancers of Island Breeze take you on a colorful and entertaining journey through a

special time in Hawai‘i’s history. Dine on a lavish buffet in a stunning oceanfront location where manta rays gather, whales breach, sunsets are stunning, and the sights and sounds of Polynesia all combine to create a special evening in paradise. Monday evenings at Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort & Spa. For reservations call (808) 326-4969 or visit haleoluau.com. RAYS ON THE BAY Situated on dramatic lava rocks iconic of the Kona Coast, Rays on the Bay features sustainable Big Island-inspired cuisine from farm to plate and hook to cook. Enjoy rich Island flavors like Kona Coffee, sea salt, lilikoi (passion fruit) and fresh fish, paired with volcanic wines and local spirits. Take in a crimson Keauhou sunset while you dine on coastal inspired entrees with gorgeous views of Keauhou Bay. After sunset, enjoy a beverage as you view Keauhou’s giant resident manta rays – gracefully swimming along the coast. Located at the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay. Dinner served nightly from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m., bar & patio open 5:30 to 11 p.m. Call (808) 930-4949.

~Best 18th restaurant in the country | Yelp Gallery ~Certiﬁcate Of Excellence 2016 | Trip Advisor ~2017 Hale ‘Aina Award | Honolulu Magazine

“Come as friends and leave as family” Open daily 5 - 9pm for dinner Early Owl happy hour daily 5 - 6pm Night Owl happy hour daily 9:30pm to midnight AIR-CONDITIONED Pueo’s Osteria is located within Waikoloa Village Highlands Center in Waikoloa Village Reservations are highly recommended. Call (808)-339-7566

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SOME SPICE IS NICE

For the cocktail aficionado who likes to chillax with a little heat, the Nahi Wai at Beach Tree is made for you. This perfectly harmonious cocktail was created by longtime bartender Mike Brackett for a friend’s birthday party and received rave reviews. Now anyone can spice up their happy hour just by heading to Beach Tree located at the extraordinary Four Seasons Resort Hualälai. Nahi Wai, which means fire water, starts with Casamigos Tequila that has been infused in-house with Hawaiian chili peppers and is balanced with the freshness and sweetness of watermelon juice from Waimea and finished with a splash of ginger syrup, and lime juice for tartness. This creative, handcrafted cocktail hits all the right notes and is pretty to boot. Because heat varies in each individual chili pepper, the challenge of consistently delivering the precise amount of spice was a hurdle Mike got 72

over by coming up with a solution with one of the resort’s chefs. They do this by taking master bottles of house-infused tequila and blending them with other bottles to achieve the same level of heat to ensure each drink is identical. The heat level is just the right amount of spice to perk up your palate. And because Mike thoughtfully included high quality local ingredients, the Nahi Wai is truly a Hawaiian Tropical Cocktail best enjoyed here steps away from the gorgeous Pacific. Beach Tree is located at the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai, 72-100 Kaÿüpülehu Drive along the North Kona Coast. Open daily for lunch from 11:30am to 3pm, a limited lunch menu from 3pm to 5:30pm, and dinner from 5:30pm to 8:30pm. For more information or to make reservations, call (808) 325-8000. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: CAPTURE HAWAI'I

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WHAT WE LOVE NOW

PHOTO COURTESY: CAPTURE HAWAI'I

SUPER FOOD

Cultural fusion isn’t a new concept in the culinary world. Blending flavors from different countries leads to an endless array of creative, unique dishes. There is a reason that Tex-Mex, California Cuisine, Pacific Rim and Korean-Mexican just to name a few are so popular—they are delicious! And just like Korean tacos, poke nachos is an elevated dish of two common staples. While you may see this offering at various restaurants around the state (and even the mainland and beyond), one restaurant doing poke nachos that’s worth going out of the way for is Mai Grille by Chef Allen Hess in the Waikoloa Resort area. Freshly caught marinated ÿahi (yellowfin tuna) is placed on top of a pile of crispy wonton chips, prepared in-house daily, which are the perfect size and thickness for holding up the heaping scoops of tasty poke. Served with leafy kale, spicy aioli, sour cream, avocado and salsa fresca; don’t be myhawaiitraveler.com

surprised to see your dining neighbors staring enviously at your plate. The flavors are layered perfectly so that each chip has something to savor in every light, airy bite. The poke nachos and their housemade bacon are Mai Grille’s top sellers, and for good reason. This fun twist on two old favorites has become an instant new classic in food fusion. Mai Grille by Chef Allen Hess is located at The Waikoloa Kings’ Course clubhouse at 69-622 Waikoloa Beach Drive. They are open for breakfast MonSat 8am to 10:30am with lunch at 11am to 2:30pm. Happy hour 2:30pm to 5pm. Sunday brunch is 7:30am to 2:30pm. Open for dinner Thursday thru Saturday from 5pm, with last reservations at 7pm. For more information, call (808) 886-7660 or visit maigrille.com 73

DAILY BREAD

What is it about the aroma of freshly baked bread that makes it so intoxicating and tempting? Genuine bakeries are hard to come by when you live on a remote island in the middle of nowhere. Most locals used to wait for the weekly farmers market at Parker School in Waimea to get their fix of deliciously baked goodies from Sandwich Isle Bread Company or look for their products at specialty shops around town. Thankfully, Sandwich Isle Bread Company has opened up a storefront so we can conveniently stop in for yummy cookies or pick up a delectable dessert to take to a friend’s house for dinner. If you’ve yet to try the freshly baked breads and pastries that Sandwich Isle Bread Company is famous for then run to Waimea! What makes this bakery exceptional is the amount of experience and talent that Kevin and Kay Cabrera bring to their bakery. They have been pastry chefs for over 35 years, baking up mouthwatering delicacies that range from 5-inch baby cakes and lilikoÿi (passion fruit) merengue tarts, to chocolate éclairs, pies, and especially their variety of breads. Sandwich Isle Bread Company uses as many locally sourced products as possible, such 74

as Hanaoka Farm’s lilikoÿi puree, which they credit as the “secret” to all of their yummy lilikoÿi products. Sandwich Isle Bread Company became official after Kevin dreamed of baking breads in a wood-fired oven and took the step to purchase one in 2005. Over the years, they’ve perfected their products, from baguettes and 20 Seed Sourdough to pain au levain (leavened bread) and beyond using traditional methods! Anyone who has tasted their heavenly breads and pastries will verify that this is a legitimate bakery—a little piece of heaven in paradise. Sandwich Isle Bread Company can be found at the Waimea Town Market at Parker School on Saturdays from 7:30am to 1pm. They also have a storefront located at 65-1158 Mämalahoa Hwy #7 in Waimea in the KTA Supermarket Waimea Center, open 7am to 6pm Mondays through Fridays, 8am to 2pm Saturdays, and closed Sundays. They also supply breads to Westside Wines and Kona Wine Market every Friday, for those living or visiting in Kailua-Kona. For more information, visit sandwichislebread.com or call (808) 731-6712. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: CAPTURE HAWAI'I

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PHOTO COURTESY: MAUNA KEA BEACH HOTEL

GIVE & TAKE

Looking to enjoy a fabulous meal at a reduced price, all the while effortlessly giving back to the community? Mauna Kea Beach Hotel’s Manta and The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort’s Meridia are each giving one lucky table that chance on a daily basis. Diners who call in advance and request “Table 65” will be given a 20% discount on their total food and beverage bill. At the end of the month, the restaurants tally up the discounts and donate a portion of the proceeds to a Hawai‘i Island nonprofit organization that is chosen each month. For instance, the month of July’s nonprofit beneficiary was the American Cancer Society, and guests are encouraged to inquire as to which organization their proceeds will be going to when they make their reservations. While some may be hesitant to call because a discounted seat at a restaurant may mean it is located in an undesirable location, diners should know that there is no literal Table 65. Instead it harkens back to the year

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of 1965 when the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel first opened its doors to the public. Keep in mind that there is only one Table 65 per evening per restaurant, and it is given on a first come, first serve basis, so be sure to call as soon as you’re ready to make your reservation. After all, what could be better than delicious food, an incredible view, and a giving back to the community all at the same time plus a discount? Table 65 is available nightly at Manta, located at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, and Meridia, located in The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort. Because there is only one Table 65 per evening at each location, reservations in advance are highly recommended. For Manta’s, call (808) 882-5910, and for Meridia, call (808) 880-1111 and request “Table 65.” Party size is limited to a maximum of six guests.

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HOT SPOT

WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

MERIDIA T

he Beatles once famously sang, “All you need is love.” Sure, this idea applies to a variety of facets in life, but one area in particular that symbolizes this concept most strikingly is cooking. Where else can the passion of a grandmother pass down the knowledge of her ancestors to future generations? Or the care and attention paid to the smallest of details that can heighten a dish, transporting a diner from the present to a moment lived long ago? Indeed, cooking provides pathways to the past, reminders of loved ones whose own care nourished more than just the body, but also the soul. At Meridia, a newly opened Mediterraneaninspired restaurant at The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort, Sous Chef Christopher Galindo takes his own memories and culture and shares this love with all who dine there. Combining his family’s background with influences from the chefs he’s worked with across the state, Chef Chris creates dishes that transcend time and context. While Hawai‘i is far from the Mediterranean, influences abound. Thanks to the 19th century sugar plantations that brought in workers from as far away as Portugal, families have been passing down Mediterranean-style dishes using Hawai‘i’s ingredients for almost two centuries. These dishes have a new home and a chef determined to showcase the

blending of these two distinct cultures into one cohesive and delicious combination. As Chef Chris talks about his vision, he shares stories of his grandmother and the dishes she inspired. “One dish that is dear to my heart is the Seared Scallops with fideos that my grandmother made. There was so much love in it,” he says. This dish is one of the restaurant’s most popular, and a recent guest had a similar emotional experience when eating it. “An older gentleman said he hadn’t had something like this since he was seven years old. He started crying, he cried! It’s crazy what food can do!” Even the simple aroma of a certain ingredient can harken a person back in time, like the grilling of peppers, which sends Chef Chris back to his grandmother’s kitchen. It’s in this spirit that the dishes of Meridia have been crafted, honoring each humble ingredient, applying some tender love and care, and sharing that with guests. Other dishes in the menu have similar stories. The Portuguese Bean Soup with wild boar linguiça, garden cabbage, and grass-fed beef shank was inspired by The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort’s Executive Chef Peter Abarcar, Jr. Chef Chris talks about his “little black book” of recipes that he’s been working on for years under BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (ALL) THE WESTIN HAPUNA BEACH RESORT

the tutelage of his executive chef at the Four Seasons Resort Lanai, whose own Spanish ancestry inspired his cuisine. But the beauty of Mediterranean-influenced cuisine is the vastness of the region. From Portugal to Greece, to Italy, Morocco and other North African destinations, there is so much to choose from. The Signature Tossed Greek salad, with a surprising addition of hummus, charred sweet onion, fresh oregano and garden peppers grown on property, along with briny Kalamata olives, salty Feta, and a preserved citrus vinaigrette is a standout; a perfectly light and flavorful way to start your journey across the Mediterranean. Don’t miss the Bacon Wrapped Dates, with a tangy passion fruit mustard sauce, stuffed with manchego cheese. Don’t be surprised if you want to order seconds—they disappear pretty quickly! And be sure to order the Maui Venison Sugo with House Made Pappardelle Pasta with feral pork, shaved Pecorino, and a fresh garden gremolata. Lastly, the Branzino, a Spanish favorite, is the perfect dish to share—served whole with root veggies, including craveable crispy ‘ulu (breadfruit), the dish nearly transports you halfway across the globe! Meridia also has an extensive array of handcrafted cocktails and mocktails. For guests looking for a refreshing cocktail, Ophelia’s Remedy, with Ocean vodka, lavender syrup, lemon juice and a sprig of charred rosemary, whose aroma heightens the entire experience, is the perfect accompaniment for the meal. Zero proof beverages, such as the Strawberry Basil Mule recently won a drink competition on Oÿahu. They’ve also cultivated an eclectic wine list that features myhawaiitraveler.com

wines from the Mediterranean and around the world available by the glass or bottle. Recently opened after a $4 million renovation, Meridia’s sleek new space and tempting menu offers a welcomed change of pace from the typical tourist-fare. Walking into the big open lobby and catching a glimpse of the bread nook, followed by the bar and then comfortable dining area overlooking the vast Pacific, diners get a sense that they are in for something different. As you’re warmly greeted and escorted to your table, you get a feeling of being welcomed like a long lost family member coming home for a big family meal. Throughout the evening, the staff interacts with you sincerely, providing helpful hints about what to order (local tip: take their advice!), and even where to get the best pictures of the sunset (also definitely take this advice!). Meridia’s General Manager, Larry Engstrom, tells me this is what he is after all along. “We want the service to match the dishes. It’s not just about the food, and not just about the service, but it’s about the two together.” It turns out with the help of some stellar ingredients, a few cherished memories, and a passion for creating inspired cuisine, love really is all you need to make food sing. Meridia is located at The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort at 62-100 Kaunaÿoa Drive along the Kohala Coast. They are open for dinner Thursday through Monday from 5:30pm to 9pm, and closed on Tuesday and Wednesday. Reservations are recommended. For more information, call (808) 880-1111 or visit www.westinhapunabeach.com/dining. 77

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CULINARY Q&A EXECUTIVE CHEF JAMES BABIAN WORDS BROOKE REHMANN IMAGES CAPTURE HAWAI'I

fter 40 years in the business, Chef James Babian of Pueo’s Osteria in Waikoloa Village has a sense of what he’s passionate about. Lucky for us, Chef Babian’s passion for Italian cuisine translates into easily accessible, homey dishes cooked the way we all wish our grandmothers had cooked for us. In fact, he credits his family as being some of his biggest influences, from his children being his biggest achievements, to his Uncle Bobby “Bullets” for taking great care of him growing up, and to his aunts and grandmothers for teaching him the culinary ropes. Though his flavors might transport you to the Italian countryside, the sense of ‘ohana (family), you feel when dining at Pueo’s Osteria grounds you right here in Hawaiÿi. What inspired you to become a chef? I always had a passion for food growing up with a heavy Mediterranean background, and family that loved to cook. I had started working in the beverage side of the business at 18. When a senior kitchen employee became ill during a busy service I was told, “to get in there and help them!” At the end of service the executive chef said, “You really should consider becoming a chef—you’re a natural!” 78

What is one of your earliest food memories? Why was it so important? Helping my grandmothers and aunts getting ready for family gatherings they would give me little culinary projects to do—rolling meatballs, crushing tomatoes, stuffing grape leaves and I totally embraced it. I still recall those times and remember how important and how intertwined food and family is. What are some of your proudest achievements so far? Gold medal and Best of Show at the American Culinary Federation’s (ACF) Las Vegas Culinary Challenge; representing Hawaiÿi hosting a dinner at the prestigious Beard House in NYC; Pueo’s being ranked #18 Best Restaurants in America according to Yelp; and my son Jake and my daughter Jaelyn. Who is one of the most influential people to you as a chef? Hands down Joyce Goldstein. She owned Square One restaurant in San Francisco around the corner from where I was attending culinary school. Her passion, intensity and approach to farm-to-table cooking were amazing. The restaurant was Mediterranean and the menu changed every BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

day. Nothing frozen, everything from scratch every day (hence back to “square one”)—the same as we do here at Pueo’s. I learned more working for her than I had learned going to culinary school. What drives your passion for Italian cuisine? My genes. Also, the simplicity of the Italian approach to food using regional and seasonal ingredients, along with the intensity of sourcing the finest ingredients and never compromising. What is your most memorable meal that you’ve ever had? What made it special? My wife/partner Christine and I were traveling in Tuscany and came across this ancient village called San Gimignano. We ate lunch in a small osteria and it was simply one of the best meals like from forever. Local venison loin, gnocchi with Gorgonzola, pasta water and truffles, Roman-style artichokes—the artichokes were harvested from just outside the village—the wine…time slowed down that day. Every bite was amazing, life was amazing—I am forever changed! What are your favorite ingredients that you can only get here on the Big Island? Hearts of palm, Kekela Farms grows some mean root vegetables that just taste different. WOW Farm tomatoes, Hämäkua mushrooms, ogo (seaweed), Big Island Abalone, our wild-caught fish is the finest in the world, and guava smoked deep-sea Kona salt. What is one ingredient we’d be surprised to find in your pantry/refrigerator? Colatura Roman fish sauce—it’s like the Italian version of patis (from the Philippines). Liquid anchovy. We use it sparingly, but it is an amazing seasoning. Pueo’s Osteria is a local hot spot. What makes it so popular and how do you keep regulars excited to come back religiously? We change the menu every four months, we are continuously trying to recreate ourselves and we have staff that embraces the local repeat customers. They remember their names, preferences and go out of their way to make each experience with us special. It’s the team that makes this place what it is. You’re one of the only restaurants open late for the night owls on our island. Where did this idea come from, and why are you so committed to diners at all hours of the evening? I have been in this industry for 40 years and it has been very good to me and my family. I wanted to offer a safe, fun environment for industry peeps and locals to come to and have a pau hana (after work drink) and perhaps a bite to eat after their shift or just for a late night snack. That’s it. What are some of the most special experiences you’ve been a part of at Pueo’s? Cooking for the residents of Puna that were displaced by the recent eruption. Closing the restaurant and taking my amazing staff out for a holiday dinner. Are there any recipes from your family on the menu? The Pomodoro and Bolognese sauces, meatballs, and lots of our specials. What are some of your must-trys at Pueo’s Osteria? Guests should try the heirloom tomato burrata, Chicken Milanese, Veal Parmesan, Rigatoni Bolognese and end with a housemade cannoli. Pueo’s Osteria is located in the Waikoloa Village Highlands Centre at 68-1845 Waikoloa Road. Open daily at 5pm. Special menu and pricing available during Early Owl and Late Night Happy Hour. Reservations are recommended for restaurant seating. For more information, visit pueososteria.com or call (808) 339-7566. myhawaiitraveler.com

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SOULFUL SIPPERS

WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

Changing seasons can also bring a change in the preference of wines we reach for and cooler weather heralds a time when crisp summer wines are set aside for bigger, bolder wines adding warmth to the body and dinner table. Along with wines that are concentrated and flavorful, cooler months also welcome wines that carry special stories to be shared as they are poured adding context and memorability to the wine.

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While fragrant rosé from Southern France is often the rage during summer months, the same area also produces fleshy, opulent reds enjoyed when the temperatures begin to dip. Châteauneuf-du-Pape, an appellation located within the Southern Rhône region of France, was recognized as a wine-growing region in 1933, however the area’s history with wine goes much farther back. Early settlements first focused on agriculture, but the region underwent change when Pope Clement V relocated the papacy to Avignon in the 14th century, located on the left bank of the Rhône River. A lover of wine, he brought vines to the area and elevated viticulture in the new seat of papal power, which became known as Châteauneuf-du-Pape or “The Pope’s New Castle.” Originally, 10 varietals were allowed in wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape but that number now stands at 18 permissible varietals. The region also adheres to strict appellation rules including a minimum alcohol content of 12.5% and restricted yield limits per vine to encourage concentrated flavors. As a rule, no vineyard is created if the area is not arid enough to sustain lavender and thyme—two herbs that contribute to the garrigue (French for scrub or scrubland) scent that lingers in the background palate of many wines from the area. The 2015 Domaine de la Janasse “Tradition” ($40/ bottle; klwines.com) pops brightly with raspberry, touches of dark chocolate, and interesting flashes of herbaceousness of shiso (perilla leaf) balanced with traditional flavors of the region like dark cherries, black myhawaiitraveler.com

tea, and hints of black pepper. The favorable weather conditions of 2015 resulted in a vintage that was capable of reaching its ripest maturity resulting in a lush, flavorful wine with aging potential. For a wine so bold and palatable, a dish like Asianinspired braised short ribs would offer enough substance in terms of flavor and weight to avoid being outdone by such a commanding wine. Ribs marinated in a blend of sweet brown sugar, zesty garlic, and savory shoyu (soy sauce) commands a wine with layered nuisance as in the “Tradition.” The wine’s finish of shiso will complement the Asian spices and herbs in the marinade and the silkiness of this wine’s tannins presents enough structure while not domineering the tenderness of the slowcooked meat. Cooler months also encourage many to move their bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon out of their cellars and enjoy the spicy and succulent “king of grapes.” While famous from regions such as France and California, Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon has been gaining traction over the past decade for its bold, assertive nature. Vines were first planted in Chile around 1540, but viticulture did not take off until the mid-1800s following a boom of wealth from mineral harvesting in the Atacama Desert. It became fashionable for the wealthy to vacation in France and bring home cuttings of vines to replant in Chile. Dark, fruit-driven Cabernet Sauvignon paired wonderfully with the conditions of regions of the Maipo Valley, which remains Chile’s largest wine region to this day. Here, warm days allow grapes to receive 81

all the warmth possible from the sun and reach their full sugar ripeness while the dramatic drop in temperatures at night ensures bright acidity will remain in the grapes creating balance in the finished wine. Founded in 1883 with vines from Bordeaux, Concha y Toro vineyards is one of the largest producers of wine in South America and their 2015 Marques de Casa Concha ($19/bottle; wine.com) is a prime example of stellar Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon. Ruby red in color and concentrated with dark fruits and firm tannins, this bottling begs for a pairing that features a flavorful sauce besieged with spices. Magic occurs when pairing this wine with a dish like succulent roast chicken served alongside a port wine and fig reduction as the dried figs and lemon zest in the sauce playfully pair with flavors of juicy, red cherries and currants found swirling in this wine. The cedar, smoke, and velvety finish of this bottle pairs sumptuously with moist, roasted chicken while enhancing each savory bite and its maturation in American oak casks adds a round vanilla element to the pairing adding levity to this food and wine pairing. While big, bold reds are mainstays at dinner tables during winter months, sweet whites also have a role at dinner parties and can aid with difficult pairings or exotic dishes. When faced with a problematic pairing, many sommeliers turn to the internationally adored aromatic white grape, Riesling, which originated in the Rhine region of Germany, but shines in the Finger Lakes region of New York. The first vines in the Finger Lakes were grown in 1829 by an Episcopalian minister in his rectory garden and, over the upcoming decades, more grapes were grown in the region, but it wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t until 1982 that official American Viticultural Area (AVA) status was awarded to the Finger Lakes region. The Finger Lakes AVA is often compared to German wine 82

regions along the Rhine River for its similar latitude situations along the globe and, as in Germany, the Riesling grape is a large player in Finger Lakes whose microclimates and glacier-sculpted landscapes provide ideal growing conditions for this grape. One very special style of wine famous from Finger Lakes is ice wine (eiswein in German) produced during superior vintages when the grapes and weather conditions come together to create highlyprized dessert wine. The tedious process of creating ice wine begins in the vineyard when grapes are hand-picked during early morning hours before grapes are allowed to thaw. The water in the grapes, now in the form of ice, is removed by an immediate pressing allowing the pure nectar from the grapes to be extracted resulting in a concentrated and aromatic juice that is turned into wine. The 2016 Wagner Vineyards Riesling Ice Wine ($25/375 mL bottle; wagnervineyards.com) presents a luxurious and full-bodied rendition of ice wine exploding with citrus and pineapple fruitiness combined with a zesty acidity and silk-like mouthfeel. While often paired with sweet desserts like apple tarts or custards, another exciting way to enjoy ice wine is when served as an aperitif or paired with appetizers like salted nuts, creamy cheeses, and even olive tapenade. The exciting flavors of rich garlic, briny olives, and salty anchovies can prove to be a difficult pairing, but the contrasting flavors from this ice wine provides palate cleansing bursts of citrus between bites and the generous amounts of sweetness found in this wine mellows the intense flavors. Whether enjoyed quietly at home or poured at a gathering with friends, the flavorful and intense wines we select during the cooler months of the year can help contribute to the significance and memorability of an evening. Thus, selecting one with both flavor and soul are important keys when choosing a bottle to enjoy. Cheers! BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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GOLF

Epic EPICUREAN EVENTS

Celebrate the good life with world-class chefs WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

Lucky you live Hawaiÿi is an expression often heard here. We are blessed with beautiful weather, sublime scenery, diverse climate zones, and nutrient rich soil. Added to all of this are inventive farmers and producers, seeking to grow and create a variety of products that make our island known for some of the most delicious food on earth. It’s no surprise, then, that incredible and exciting food festivals come to our island to satisfy the cravings of almost any type of foodie. Lucky for us, four of those food festivals are happening here on the Big Island this fall, and absolutely should not be missed. Get your calendar ready—it’s time to celebrate the good life! 84

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PHOTO COURTESY: FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALĀLAI / CHEF FEST

Kicking off the food festival calendar is one of the premier events in all of Hawai‘i. Chef Fest, happening September 17th through the 20th at the singular Four Seasons Resort Hualälai, allows guests to dine and mingle with some of the world’s most sought after and renowned chefs. Featuring several high-profile dinners, cooking demonstrations, and wine and mixology events, guests wine and dine at this stunning locale in an intimate and indulgent atmosphere. World-class chefs participating at this year’s Chef Fest include Brooke Williamson, winner of the grueling cooking competition Top Chef (season 14) and owner of five Los Angeles based restaurants, including Hudson House and The Tripel. From Top Chef Masters and regular guest judge on Top Chef, Hugh Acheson is the chef and owner of Five & Ten, The National, Empire State South and several other establishments in the Atlanta region. He is also a two-time James Beard Award winner and author. “Chef Fest is such an intimate experience,” Acheson says. “The location is, bar none, the most beautiful place on earth, and it is a festival that allows the visiting chefs to relish in the property, allowing guests to really get to know us as people, not just food producers.” Michael Cimarusti, chef and owner of Providence, Connie & Ted’s, and Best Girl in Los Angeles, agrees, “I’ve always loved Hawaiÿi; the culture, the people, the natural beauty and, of course, the mighty Pacific all come together to create a destination that is unlike anywhere else on earth.” Besides being an idyllic tropical destination, the Big Island is becoming famous for the amazing bounty of incredible food from land and sea. San Diego’s two-time Michelin star recipient Chef Jason McLeod specializes in beef and seafood at his restaurants Born & Raised, and Ironside Fish & Oyster. “I own a seafood restaurant in San Diego and we focus as much as possible on local seafood from our local fisherman, so to have an opportunity to work with local fisherman in Hawaiÿi is very exciting for me.” Host Chef Thomas Bellec says he is excited and proud to be using the best and freshest sustainable seafood, including delectable oysters grown right at the resort! Andy Ricker, chef and owner of the global Thai cuisine Pok Pok empire and two-time James Beard Award winner, seconds this, “I’m looking forward to incorporating the oysters that are grown right on the property—can’t get much more local than that!” Two-time James Beard Award winner Charles Phan, chef and owner of five Bay Area restaurants including The Slanted Door and Out the Door is particularly excited for Hawai‘i’s fruit, especially mangoes. Meanwhile, Executive Pastry Chef Chris Ford of the Beverly Wilshire, a Four Seasons Hotel, has fruit and tea on his mind. “I’ve recently become obsessed with Hawaiian teas—white, black with flavors of passion fruit and other fruits grown on the islands.” Guests attending the various events at Chef Fest have a lot to look forward to! myhawaiitraveler.com

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY (ALL) HAWAII FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL

Not to be outdone is the 8th annual Hawaiÿi Food & Wine Festival, taking place on October 6th at the picturesque Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa. This year’s dinner whisks diners away to the Italian countryside with an Under the Tuscan Sun theme. The evening’s sixcourse meal will feature dishes from alums of the Cuisine of the Sun, highlighting ingredients that evoke the spirit of this food centric region, all paired thoughtfully and perfectly with a selection of wines from Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits of Hawaii. Attending chefs include Josiah Citrin, chef and owner of several Los Angeles based restaurants including Santa Monica’s Mélisse Restaurant. This two-star Michelin chef’s culinary philosophy of “In pursuit of excellence” gives diners an indication of what they should expect from his cuisine. Originally from Sicily, Los Angeles’ Chef Celestino Drago of Drago Centro has been lauded for his outstanding Italian cuisine. Also attending is acclaimed pastry chef Gale Gand, two-time James Beard Award winner, former host of Food Network’s dessert themed show Sweet Dreams, and of Gale’s Bread and Butter, Inc. Joachim Splichal of Los Angeles’ Patina Restaurant Group, named a “Legendary Chef” by Bon Appétit, will be adding his innovative and playful cooking style to the meal. Additionally, three-time two-star Michelin chef, Alessandro (Alex) Stratta of MATCH: Restaurant & Lounge in Phoenix, Arizona will undoubtedly create a decadent dish not soon forgotten using porchetta, a Tuscan favorite. Chef Stratta loves Hawaiÿi because of myhawaiitraveler.com

“the genuine hospitality of not only our hosts, but all the people I come in contact with. You can feel the Aloha love!” And, of course, Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa’s very own Chef Jayson Kanekoa will thoughtfully add his signature local touch to this Tuscan-themed dinner. This is sure to be a meal diners won’t soon forget! Every year, the community comes together to celebrate the amazing grass-fed beef raised on our island at the annual Taste of the Hawaiian Range. This year on Saturday, September 29th for its 22nd year, the festival has mixed things up a bit, featuring not only the Big Island’s delicious beef products, but also other amazing ingredients grown in our unique volcanic soil. There will also be a focus on including keiki (children) in the process, from introducing them to farm animals, as well as the science, art, and production of how food is grown. Previously, the festival’s focus had been mostly on introducing chefs to the methods and techniques on how to best utilize our island’s grass-fed beef, but the festival is taking a more comprehensive perspective on the food produced on our island. Early in the day, the Taste of the Hawaiian Range will kick off with a free outdoor agricultural-themed event, complete with educational activities that are open to the public. Later that afternoon, guests can attend a cooking demonstration with Village Burger and Noodle Club’s Chef Edwin Goto, as well as the signature evening Taste event where diners can sample a bevy of products grown and raised right here on our pastures. 87

Chef Fest takes place September 17th thru 20th at the Four Seasons Resort Hualālai. For information about a schedule of events and to purchase tickets, visit www.fourseasons.com/ hualalai/dining/chef_fest.

The 22nd A Taste of the Hawaiian Range is at the Mana Christian ‘Ohana hall, located next to the YMCA in Minuke Ole Park in Waimea on September 29th. The free outdoor agricultural activities are from 9am to 3pm. Later, the Cooking PastureRaised Beef 101 with Chef Edwin Goto is $10, and runs from 2:30pm to 4pm. The alcohol-free festival culminates with the Taste’s gala, from 5:30pm to 7pm, featuring 20 different cooking stations, highlighting pasture raised-beef, goat, pork, and lamb. Tickets cost $50, and are available for the first 500 guests. To learn more about the festival and purchase tickets, visit tasteofthehawaiianrange.com. The Kona Coffee Cultural Festival runs from November 9th thru the 18th with many events happening along the Kona Coast. For a list of the scheduled events and to purchase the festival button, visit konacoffeefest.com.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: KONA COFFEE CULTURAL FESTIVAL

Running from November 9th thru the 18th, the Kona Coffee Cultural Festival is the perfect opportunity to sip one of our island’s most famous exports. Grown only along a relatively small stretch of land that’s about 30-miles long and 3-miles wide, between the elevations of about 700 to 2,000-feet, this area combines the perfect weather conditions and rocky volcanic soil for optimal growing conditions. Most importantly, Kona coffee can only be grown in, well, Kona. Celebrating the little bean that has been Kona Coast’s economic powerhouse for the last 200 years, the Kona Coffee Festival pays homage to the farmers, artisans, and pioneers who make the annual coffee harvest a success. Events include a farm tour of the Kona Coffee Living History Farm, an art stroll through Holualoa Village, Kona Coffee recipe contest, cultural demonstrations as well as tastings of the delicious beverage. It’s a must for anyone on island who appreciates a sip of something spectacular. No matter which festival you attend, each event will leave you craving for more. The fall is the perfect time to dig into some epic culinary delights—e ÿai käkou (let’s eat)!

Hawai‹i Food & Wine Festival’s Under the Tuscan Sun event is Saturday, October 6th at the Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa. General Admission tickets are $250, and VIP tickets, which include a VIP cocktail reception and VIP seating are $500. For more information, visit hawaiifoodandwinefestival.com/events/ under-the-tuscan-sun.

CHECK OUT THE INTERACTIVE CULINARY EVENTS DURING CHEF FEST

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ADVENTURE

PHOTO COURTESY: EMERY GARCIA

ADVENTURE ISLE With most of the thirteen climate zones, the Big Island is considered by many as a minicontinent. Where else in the world can you snow-ski in the morning and sunbathe on nationally-ranked beaches in the afternoon? Hawaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;i Island boasts world-renowned golf, spas, dive and snorkel sites, the best hiking and camping, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most active volcano, the clearest night skies for stargazing, and endless activities in which to experience it all. 90

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

EXPLORE KONA Clean Power,OUR Clean Ocean

AIR TOURS PARADISE HELICOPTERS

Explore paradise on the Hawai‘i helicopter adventure of a lifetime. Paradise Helicopters are the experts in offering an exciting, well-planned, and safe helicopter experience. See breathtaking waterfalls, active volcanoes, panoramic coastlines and wondrous mountain ranges on one of the best heli tours Hawai‘i has to offer. See nature in its most beautiful form. Experience it all from the comfort of our helicopters and the Big Island will reveal itself to you in a way never imagined. So ride along as our experienced guides show you the wonders of the islands, and happily answer any question you might have along the way. Visit paradisecopters.com or call (808) 969-7392.

SUNSHINE HELICOPTERS

Experience the adventure of a lifetime. The Intensity of the volcanic landscape and hidden tropical valleys will surely take your breath away. Sunshine proudly celebrates over 25 years of operation with an excellent safety record. Recipient of the Helicopters Association International “Platinum Program of Safety” award and a member of (T.O.P.S.) Tour Operators Program of Safety. Depart from our exclusive Hapuna Heliport or Hilo airport. Call (808) 882-1223 or visit sunshinehelicopters.com.

EXPLORE HAWAII FOREST & TRAIL

Awarded 2006 Ecotour Operator of the Year, Hawaii Forest & Trail has over eight different Nature Adventure Tours which showcase the Big Island’s scenic diversity. Our Nature Adventure Tours feature the best tour locales, great customer service, relaxed easy walks and hikes led by professionally-trained Interpretive Guides. We’ll share with you the volcanoes, waterfalls, valleys, rainforests and summits, in addition to the life and legends of Hawaii. Frommer’s Guide to Hawai‘i says “... May very well be the highlight of your vacation.” For reservations, call (800) 464-1993 or online at hawaiiforest.com.

MAUNA KEA SUMMIT ADVENTURES

Mauna Kea Summit Adventures is the Original Sunset & Stargazing Tour. The ancient Hawaiians thought of the top of Mauna Kea as heaven, or at least where the Gods and Goddesses lived. As the pioneer guide service on Mauna Kea, we have over 35 years experience. Our professional guides are passionate, educational and fun. Beautiful, dramatic photo opportunities abound. Experience treasures of the night sky through our telescope. We provide a delicious hot supper served mid-mountain, hot drinks, arctic style parkas with hoods and convenient pick-up points in Kailua-Kona, Waikoloa & Hwy 190 and Hwy 200 junction. (808) 332-2366 or online at maunakea.com. myhawaiitraveler.com

Explore the deep blue with Atlantis in one of our battery powered submarines

atlantisadventures.com | ( 8 0 8 ) 3 2 7-1 4 4 1 | #atlantishawaii EX PLOR E OU R KON A

UMAUMA FALLS ZIPLINE AND RAPPEL EXPERIENCE

Create an unforgettable memory with your family and friends while on the Big Island of Hawaii. Breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean, beautiful waterfalls and lush rainforest of the Hamakua Coast await you. Zip on 9 thrilling ziplines designed for both beginners and experts, including our 2,060 ft. dual zipline and amazing 200 ft. suspension bridge. Swim & Kayak in the Umauma River or combine them for a Zip & Dip adventure you will never forget! Be sure to stop and enjoy our Visitors Center and Tropical Garden Walk and Umauma Falls viewing area. You will be talking about your Umauma Experience for years to come! Located on the beautiful Hamakua Coast in Hakalau at 31-313 Old Mamalahoa Hwy. Call (808) 930-9477 or visit umaumaexperience.com.

SNORKEL, SAIL & SUB ATLANTIS SUBMARINES

An unforgettable 45-minute journey aboard an Atlantis 48-passenger submarine, as featured in National Geographic television specials, where guests explore a 25-acre natural coral reef and its marine inhabitants. Allow Atlantis Submarines to show you the other 96% of Kona you can't see any other way. Treat yourself to Kona's most beautiful and captivating scenery, habitats, and isolated treasures. You'll descend 100 feet into another version of paradise -- one hidden even from the people of Hawaii for centuries. Atlantis Kona offers a journey aboard a 48-passenger submarine. Guests will discover an 18,000-year-old, 25-acre fringing coral reef, which boasts a vibrant ecosystem of coral formations and tropical fish. Tours provide narration in Japanese via headsets. For reservations call (808) 327-1441. 91

ADVENTURE BODY GLOVE CRUISES

All of our cruises are complimented by the first-class amenities on board our state-of-the-art, 65-foot catamaran. The Kanoa II is an award winning, multimillion dollar vessel designed with quality and comfort in mind. Our guests enjoy plenty of shade, cushioned seating, flat screen televisions, a full sound system for live entertainment, and our full service premium bar. The Kanoa II is equipped with three restrooms, two fresh water showers, a 20-foot water slide, a 15-foot high dive platform, two large double swim platforms, and floatation toys for everyone. Call (888) 253-0397 or visit bodyglovehawaii.com.

FAIR WIND CRUISES

Located in Keauhou-Kona on the Big Island of Hawai‘i, Fair Wind Cruises has been offering snorkel excursions since 1971. We offer two vessels with two very unique snorkel experiences. Our snorkel destination on Fair Wind II, historic Kealakekua Bay, is without question one of the most relaxing areas for snorkeling - maintaining clear visibility and very calm waters throughout the day. Our newest vessel, Hula Kai, has been designed and built to accommodate guests who seek the very best in luxury, comfort, and technology. Our Hula Kai cruise offers the advanced snorkeler a way to explore some of Kona’s most unique and less traveled snorkel destinations along the spectacular Kona Coast shoreline. Call (808) 345-6213 or visit fairwind.com.

MAUNA LANI SEA ADVENTURES

Whatever your pleasure “Winona” offers regularly scheduled cruises and exclusive charters. Our Polynesian sailing catamaran has spacious deck and seating areas for sunning or just relaxing. Join us on our dive boats for a scuba diving adventure at one of our 30 dive sites, and experience the under world of tropical fish, beautiful coral reefs, caves, and arches. If diving is not your pleasure, try our snorkel sail on “Winona” where you can relax under the sun and enjoy great snorkeling along the Kohala coast. Maybe relaxing and watching a sunset Hawaiian style is more your pace. Then come sail with us along the Kohala coastline and take in the views of the island from afar and watch the sunset while you enjoy cocktails and püpü (appetizer). If you join us from December to April, you can watch the majestic humpback whales during their annual migration to the warm Hawaiian waters. Located at Mauna Lani Resort. Call (808) 885-7883 or visit maunalaniseaadventures.com.

SNORKEL BOB’S

Snorkel Bob Brand masks for every shape & size-The SEAMO BETTA & LI’L MO BETTA are Rx receptive in a minute. The MoflO2 & MoflO2RS snorkels with double valve twin chambers clear easy and deliver freshair on every breath. Sumo Mask & Bigfoot fins (15-17) for the mongo among you. Boogie boards, beach chairs & 24-HOUR INTERISLAND GEAR RETURN. Book 2 seats on most activities and get a FREE Boogie for 92

the week (Reg. $29). Located in Kona off Ali’i Drive behind Huggo’s (808) 329-0770 or at The Shops at Mauna Lani on the Kohala Coast (808) 885-9499. All Islands 8-5 every day. Online at snorkelbob.com.

ZIPLINE KOHALA ZIPLINE

Join us on a Big Island zipline tour like no other. The Kohala Zipline Kohala Canopy Tour traverses a forested, stream-rich land on the northern tip of the Big Island of Hawai‘i, an area known since ancient times as Halawa. With soaring platforms built into majestic trees, accentuated by arching suspension bridges and progressively longer zip lines, our course promises the best of Hawaii zipline adventure tours, serene and thrilling at once. Whether you are a zipline enthusiast or a first-time outdoor adventure seeker, you’ll find in the Kohala Canopy Tour an unforgettable experience. Call (808) 331-3620 or visit kohalazipline.com.

ATTRACTIONS KONA-KOHALA AHU‘ENA HEIAU

A thatched shrine built and restored on an artificial island in Kamakahonu (Eye of the Turtle) is guarded by wooden images (ki‘i). King Kamehameha I settled here in 1812 and maintained his royal residence until his death in 1819. King Kamehameha dedicated Ahu‘ena Heiau, a temple of prosperity, to Lono, god of fertility. Significant history was made on the royal compounds when Liholiho, who became King Kamehameha II dined with the great queens Keopuolani and Ka‘ahumanu breaking one of the most rigorous kapu. This bold act brought on the abandonment of the ancient kapu system and opened the door to Christianity. Located near Kailua Pier 75-5660 Palani Rd. Free. Call (808) 329-2911.

HULIHE‘E PALACE

Two-story Victorian estate made of lava, koa wood and coral mortar was commissioned by Hawai‘i’s second governor John Adams Kuakini and built in 1838. The palace served as a vacation residence for Hawaiian monarchs until 1914. King Kaläkaua used the mansion in the 1880s as his summer palace. Today it houses a collection of royal Hawaiian relics, beautiful furniture and rare collections. Located 75-5718 Ali‘i Drive. Open weekdays 9-4, weekends 10-4. Admission is $5. Call (808) 329-1877 or visithuliheepalace.org.

PU‘UHONUA O HŌNAUNAU

Also known as Place of Refuge, this national historical park served as a safe haven in times of war and was also a place of cleansing for kapu breakers. Wooden images of Hawaiian native gods (ki‘i), temples and heiau on the sacred grounds of the beautiful and serene beachfront sanctuary make this a must-see historical park. Because ancient Hawaiians believed that if the spirit was not fed then it would drift away, kähuna and others left food offerings in the temple. Today with the revival of Hawaiian customs, you may see offerings of food on the

tower (lele) at Hale O Keawe. Picnic tables, fascinating tidepools, sandy sunbathing area and a popular snorkel spot, Two-step, are also nearby. Four miles south of Kealakekua Bay on Rte 160. Open daily 7am to sunset. Admission is $3-$5. Call (808) 328-2288.

LAPAKAHI STATE HISTORICAL PARK

Travel back in time and walk the self-guided tour through the ruins of an ancient fishing village. Displays show early Hawaiian life of fishing, salt gathering, legends games and shelter. Located off Route 270. Open daily 8-4. Free. (808) 882-6207.

PUAKŌ PETROGLYPHS FIELD

View hundreds of ancient Hawaiian art form with warriors, surfers, outriggers and numerous themes. Nearby is Malama Petroglyph Trail. Located off the trail of Mauna Lani Resort off North Kaniku Dr.

PU‘UKOHOLĀ HEIAU

Built by King Kamehameha to honor his family war god, Kü and to fulfill the prophecy of uniting the Hawaiian Islands. Located off Hwy 270 in Kawaihae. Open daily 7:30-4. Free. Call (808) 882-7218.

EAST HAWAI‘I ‘AKAKA FALLS STATE PARK

Includes ‘Akaka Falls, a 442-ft. waterfall that flows spectacularly over a deep gorge into a pool. Kahüna Falls is visible from the loop trail through the park. Located four miles inland north of Hilo, off Hwy 19. Open daily 7-7. Free. (808) 974-6200.

BANYAN DRIVE

Celebrities planted banyan trees along this drive beginning in 1933 when hotels were just being built. Famous people include Babe Ruth, Cecil B. DeMille, President Nixon, President Roosevelt and King George V. Located on Banyan Drive in Hilo.

HAWAI‘I VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

It is best to see the spectacular show of red-hot lava flowing into the sea close to sunset off Chain of Craters Road. Also, you can drive the 11-mile Crater Rim Drive past lava fields, steaming craters and forests. Walk through Thurston Lava Tube, a natural tunnel formed when the top and sides of a lava flow hardened and the lava inside drained away. Bring water, flashlight and a sweater. Stop by the visitor’s center for more information and safety. Call (808) 985-6000.

HILO FARMERS MARKET

One of the state’s best farmers markets with more than 120 vendors selling flowers, fresh produce and baked goods. Located on the corner of Kamehameha Ave. and Mamo St. Open Wed. and Sat. from Sunrise to 4 p.m.

KAPOHO TIDE POOLS

A large unique collection of tidepools and spring-fed pools, some volcanically heated, extends approximately 200 yards out into the ocean. It’s a great place for novice snorkelers to explore coral and a variety of fish in the calm water. Avoid the pools that are on private BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

BOOK YOUR ADVENTURE TODAY!

(808) 885-7883 Mauna Lani Sea Adventures 68-1400 Mauna Lani Drive Kohala Coast, HI 96743

property, but the Wai‘opae Ponds adjacent to the ocean are public and fine for exploring. Visit during the week; weekends tend to be crowded with locals. Located off Hwy 137, take Kapoho-Kai Rd., left on Kaheka and right on Wai‘opae.

maunalaniseaadventures.com

MOKUPAPAPA: DISCOVERY CENTER

This is an educational center on the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands Coral Reef Ecosystem Reserve, the largest conservation area in the United States. Funded by NOAA, the center has numerous interactive displays, a 2,500-gallon saltwater aquarium and vibrant pictures and video footage of the wildlife in the reserve. Located at 308 Kamehameha Ave. in Downtown Hilo. Open to the public Tuesday-Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., closed on all Federal Holidays. Free Admission! Call (808)933-8195 or visit hawaiireef.gov.noaa/center.

Scuba • Snorkel Sail • Sunset Sail • Whale Watch • Beach Activities

PACIFIC TSUNAMI MUSEUM

Learn about the destructive tsunamis and the details of the 1946 and 1960 that devastated Hilo through photographs, interactive displays and personal accounts from the tsunami survivors. Located at 130 Kamehameha Ave, Hilo. Open Mon-Sat 9-4. Call (808)935-0926.

PANA‘EWA RAINFOREST ZOO

This is the only natural tropical rainforest zoo in the U.S. This 12-acre zoo is home to more than 80 animal species including Namaste’, a white Bengal Tiger. You are invited to picnic in the shade of over 100 varieties of Palm and stroll with Peacocks in the extensive collection of Orchids, Clumping Bamboos and Tropical Rhododendrons. Petting Zoo is open every Saturday 1:30-2:30 p.m. Tiger feeding is 3:30 daily. Open daily 9-4 p.m. except Christmas and New Year’s Day. Free. Located on Mamaki St. off Hwy 11. Call (808)9599233.

kirk lee aeder photography The Hawaiian Islands

RAINBOW FALLS

The best time to catch a rainbow in the mist of these falls is morning. The falls plummet into Wailuku River gorge. Check out Boiling Pots created by the powerful water over ancient lava beds. Located off Route 200, up Waiänuenue Ave.

Be sure to check out Kirk Lee Aeder’s newest book, Child Of The Storm, the amazing true story of legendary surfer Chris O’Rourke.

WAIPI‘O VALLEY

Valley of the Kings can also be considered earth’s Garden of Eden with breathtaking vistas bounded by 2,000 feet cliffs, spectacular Hi‘ilawe Falls plummets 1,200 feet from Kohala Mountain to the bottom of the valley, fruit trees, taro fields, streams and a crescent black sand beach popular with surfers. The steep and narrow road down the valley requires a four-wheel drive. The one-mile hike can be difficult especially on the climb back to civilization. Commercial transportation permits are limited to four outfits to maintain the pristine environment of one of the state’s most isolated places. Tours are unavailable on Sundays. Waipi‘o Valley Lookout offers breathtaking views without breaking a sweat. Located off Hwy 240 ~8 miles northwest of Honoka‘a. myhawaiitraveler.com

•Full service digital photography •Experienced in all facets: productions, events, aerials, sports, water sports •Published everywhere, stock images available •Located on Hawaii’s Big Island while serving all of the Hawaiian Islands •Member of Hawaii’s Visitors Convention Bureau Kirk or Nita Aeder: 808-987-6614 aederkla@aol.com www.kirkaederphoto.com PO Box 385155, Waikoloa, HI 96738

PU‘U WA‘AWA‘A AN ENCHANTED HIKE AMID NATIVE PLANTS WORDS PETER THOENE IMAGES ERIC FRANKE

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

myhawaiitraveler.com

he first humans to arrive on the Hawaiian Islands were, arguably, the best sailors humankind has ever seen. The ancestors of these brave souls had been, for generations, navigating an ocean fifteen times the size of the continental United States during the same period the Europeans were afraid they’d fall off the edge of the Earth if they sailed too far believing the planet was flat. Imagine being on board one of these voyaging canoes. Imagine leaving the comfort of tropical Tahiti to sail into the dark blue abyss. Imagine standing at the bow of the canoe, or waÿa, watching the hull pierce the water as you left the protected lagoon for the open ocean. When you hit the deep water, the swells begin to lift your boat up and down in a rhythmic motion. The wake forms a pattern in the water. Trailing behind you, beautifully textured furrows stack up and fade into the past. Imagine the pattern of this wake. Can you picture it? This pattern is reflected, in the texture of a massive cinder cone, looming in front of me today. In fact, this pattern is how the hill got its name. Puÿu Waÿawaÿa, or The Many-furrowed Hill, formed from an explosive volcanic event over 100,000 years ago. One thousand centuries of rain erosion gave the sides of the hill its rippled texture, like wakes from the hull of a voyaging canoe (waÿa). When the first Polynesians beheld the cinder cone, the oldest feature on the volcano Hualälai, they called it Puÿu Waÿawaÿa. Many locals know it as the “Jello Mold”—easy to see why.

My goal today is to hike to the top of the cone. The climb to the summit at 3,967-feet will be a moderately steep 1,800feet of elevation gain in roughly three and half miles. A direct route follows a cracked asphalt road from the parking lot to the base of the cone, but a more circuitous route, called the ÿÖhiÿa/ Cone Trail System, takes a meandering path through a landscape peppered with rare, endangered endemic plants. These native plants used to be clustered in a denser forest, but a long history of ranching, fires, and the introduction of invasive species has degraded the forest over the years. A bulk of the landscape today consists of invasive species. Widespread tufts of burnt yellow fountain grass and prickly lantana shrubs dominate the understory. Silk oak and jacaranda push through the grass. The only reminder that I’m hiking in Hawaiÿi and not a southern coastal scrub climate are the slabs of lava rock that intermittently show their black basaltic contours. Native plants and animals can be hard to spot if you don’t know what you’re looking for. The native species exude quiet, unassuming beauty. The most arresting may be the crimson red explosive puffs of the lehua blossom on the ÿöhiÿa tree. Make sure to have the trail map handy, which describes many of the native species you’ll encounter. When Joseph Rock, an early western authority on the flora of Hawaiÿi, visited the slopes of Hualälai in the early 1900s, he was stunned by the native forest at Puÿu Waÿawaÿa and beyond. Rock said the forest reached “…its culminating point BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

at Puÿu Waÿawaÿa, the richest floral section of any in the whole Territory.” Rock would scarcely recognize the degraded area today. Fortunately, in the early 2000s, a group of community members saw the value of what Rock witnessed. The group coalesced to secure a future for the forest—a return to what once was. In 2002, the Puÿu Waÿawaÿa Advisory Council (PAC) formed, in order to advise the Department of Land and Natural Resources on how to manage the land. Over 35,000 acres of land stretches eight miles from the mountain behind Puÿu Waÿawaÿa to the ocean below. A huge portion of this land remains a State Forest Reserve. The PAC’s foresight is the reason the community is able to experience this beauty today because for over 100 years the land was an inaccessible, privately owned, cattle ranch. Cows, sheep, goats, and hooved animals in general, are destroyers of forest. As I start my steep ascent at the base of the cinder cone, I see some of these weary ungulates tossing myhawaiitraveler.com

suspicious glances in my direction. Black cows languidly munch on the green, non-native grass. Pushing up toward the top of the trail, stopping to swig large gulps of water and wipe the sweat off my squinting brow, a distant green forest canopy seeps hope into my overheated heart. Why hasn’t ranching destroyed these trees? I’m not left wondering for long. As I approach the forest, a chest high fence comes into view. A large section at the summit and flank of Puÿu Waÿawaÿa is enclosed to protect the land from the hooved chompers and stompers. Native plants are beginning to see the light once again. I climb the ladder placed against the fence, and plop down under the shade of the Acacia koa tree on the other side. The endemic koa is one of Hawaiÿi’s most treasured trees. Prized for its gorgeous cocoa-colored wood, the koa is used for everything from musical instruments to rocking chairs. On this sunny day, I’m just thankful the koa and its crescent-shaped leaves can provide such lovely dappled shade. 97

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

The forest up here is the product of almost two decades of planting, weeding, trail building and maintenance by volunteers. Elliott Parsons is the Puÿu Waÿawaÿa coordinator for the Hawaiÿi Division of Forestry and Wildlife. Elliott is charged with implementing the PAC management plan and he is thrilled to see the fruit of so much labor. “Tens of thousands of trees have been planted and visitors can walk into a forest of native koa trees that tower overhead after having been planted only 15 years ago. These areas now provide shade and wind protection for hikers as well as critically needed habitat for forest birds...” These birds, these trees, were the impetus that drove Elliott to move to Hawaiÿi from Berkeley, California. In fact, Hawaiÿi’s rare flora and fauna have been grounds for scientists worldwide to set their sights on the Islands, including the U.S. Forest Service. In 2007, an experimental forest was established here at Puÿu Waÿawaÿa. Part of the Hawaiÿi Experimental Tropical Forest (HETF), Puÿu Waÿawaÿa and its surrounding tropical dry forest is part of 80 experimental forests nationwide. These areas contribute to the Forest Service’s effort to understand and protect some of the most threatened ecosystems globally. So, it is comforting, reclining under this koa, knowing our small island can be an example for the planet. If our island’s people and wildlife can figure out how to exist harmoniously, can’t the rest of the world? With that optimistic thought, I bid aloha to the forest. Hualälai’s afternoon clouds roll in like clockwork, cooling down the land with a misty rain. On a clear day, I would be able to see four of Big Island’s five volcanoes from the summit of Puÿu Waÿawaÿa, as well as Maui’s Haleakalä. I’m not disappointed Puÿu Waÿawaÿa didn’t offer its stunning view today. All that means is I’ll have to come back to hike another day… or return to volunteer and plant trees that I know will benefit my great grandchildren. I can’t think of a better reward. To get involved, send an email to napuuconservation@ gmail.com or eparsons@hawaii.edu to join the volunteer email list. Pack plenty of water if you plan to summit Puÿu Waÿawaÿa, and layer up for potential chilly rain. You don’t have to summit if you don’t have the time—any time spent on the trail is worthwhile. To download trail maps visit www.puuwaawaa.org. myhawaiitraveler.com

DESTINATIONS

EAST HAWAI‘I

FROM MAJESTIC WAIPI‘O VALLEY TO FIERY KĪLAUEA

escend in time to historic Hilo and spend the day exploring the beautiful lush gardens, historical museums, tranquil waterfalls, original shops, galleries and restaurants. This charming coastal city by the bay known for its friendliness and diversity of residents receives nearly 130 inches of rain annually making it one of the wettest cities on the planet. Combine all the rain with some sunshine and rich volcanic soil and you have the makings of a tropical wonderland. In the distant past, Hilo Bay was used as a trading hub for ships of commerce including whaling ships and sugar transportation for early Hawaiians. Today the port is used for a different kind of commerce, tourism. Many visitors aboard the cruise ships come to explore the many attractions in or nearby this resilient little town that has survived two destructive tsunamis in 1946 and 1960. Learn what it was like to endure the deadly storms by visiting the Pacific Tsunami Museum and listen to the stories from the remarkable survivors. Famous for growing exceptional orchids and other tropical vegetation, Hilo has several botanical gardens to marvel at nature’s beauty. 100

Wander through Lili‘uokalani Gardens, a 30acre, Japanese-style garden with pagodas, fishfilled ponds, half-moon bridges and a ceremonial teahouse. Designed to honor Hawai‘i’s first Japanese immigrants, it also offers a picturesque panoramic view of Hilo Bay. Take a stroll down Banyan Drive near the Hilo International Airport where celebrities including Babe Ruth, President Roosevelt and King George V all planted banyan tree saplings beginning in 1933. They have grown into a wonderful canopy providing welcoming shade on a sunny afternoon. Make time on either Wednesday or Saturday to visit Hilo Farmers Market featuring a wide variety of tropical flowers and delectable fruits and vegetables from over 200 vendors from all over the island. North of Hilo is the Hämäkua District surrounded by views of dramatic elevated coastlines, a stunning emerald jungle, flowing streams and waterfalls cascading down the sides of Mauna Kea. Take the time to visit the quaint towns of Honoka‘a and Laupahoehoe, former plantation towns, where traditional Hawaiian arts and history come alive. A few miles north of Honoka‘a is Waipi‘o Valley, with plummeting

waterfalls intersecting the explosion of lush tropical foliage on dramatic cliffs, it will make your top ten list of one of the most beautiful sights. The Puna District, south of Hilo, is a land of contrast and the fastest growing district on the island. Open lava fields and lush rainforests where numerous farmers grow everything from tropical plants, macadamia nuts and exotic fruits. Spend a day exploring the wonders of heated tidepools, natural springs, lava tubes, caves, black sand beaches and parks. Thirty minutes west of Hilo is home to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park with two active volcanoes and Pele, the fiery volcano goddess. Kïlauea, the world’s most active and most visited volcano, is best visited around sunset. Over half of the 330,000-acre park is designated wilderness and provides unique hiking and camping opportunities. Stop by the visitor center for eruption updates and the all important safety information. Wear comfortable shoes, bring a sweater, flashlight and plenty of water and be prepared to experience one of the most spectacular natural wonders of the world. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PELE'S WORLD WORDS COCO ZICKOS myhawaiitraveler.com

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Kïlauea is one of the world’s most active volcanoes and is currently making global headlines. The mighty basaltic shield volcano recently amped up its eruption action on May 3, 2018. Earthquakes at the summit and lava spewing from cracks in the earth along the lower East Rift Zone on the southeastern edge of the island are among the many awe-inspiring natural phenomena that have taken place over the past several months. Around two dozen fissures, or “linear volcanic vents,” have opened and closed in this region. But what is deemed “Fissure 8” continues to erupt at the time of this writing, producing a river of molten, quick-moving lava that is pouring into the Pacific. Proper protocol will soon be taken to give this new puÿu (volcanic peak) a Hawaiian name. While the volcano is putting on a dramatic show and people want to see the lava in all its glory, keep in mind that many residents’ lives, especially those in Leilani Estates, have drastically changed this year due to the loss of their homes in affected areas. Beautiful locales like Kapoho Bay with it magical tide pools have also succumbed to recent lava flows. Even though over 700 structures have been damaged or lost and many residents have had to evacuate their homes, reverence is still paid to Pele, the Hawaiian fire goddess, and her activities. Residents have even left offerings of flowers and lei on her handiwork. Ever since Polynesians arrived in Hawaiÿi, they have honored the volcano goddess no matter what actions she decides to take. Ancient tales of Pele date back thousands of years and present an indication to geologists who have gone on to prove that activity at Kïlauea has been happening in various capacities for many centuries. Pele’s moÿolelo (legends) are steeped in jealous fiery fury and she is tied to many stories that continue to serve as an integral part of Hawaiian mythology. Before becoming a well-known deity, Pele is said to have fled from Tahiti to Hawaiÿi for reasons that are conflicting, but include the possibility of escaping the aftermath of stealing the husband of her sister, Nämaka, the ocean goddess. At first, Pele attempted to live on 102

Kauaÿi, but could not find fire there nor any other Hawaiian island she visited (coincidentally in the same order that they were created). Pele finally settled upon Hawaiÿi Island where she could ignite her flame. During this time, she is said to have fallen in love with Lohiÿau, a Kauaÿi chief. She asked her sister, Hiÿiaka to bring him to her on the Big Island within 40 days, but the trip took longer than expected due to hardships that Hiÿiaka encountered along the way. Pele is said to have flown into a rage and took revenge on Hiÿiaka by killing one of her beloved friends. In defiance, once Hiÿiaka returned with Lohiÿau she became his lover and, in fury, Pele covered him in lava. Pele’s permanent residence is said to be at the summit of Kïlauea where Halemaÿumaÿu Crater is located. Before the lower Puna eruption started in May, a lava lake existed here and visitors could travel into Hawaiÿi Volcanoes National Park and see its red glow as nightfall descended upon the island. But since the current eruption began, earthquakes and explosive activity, which send plumes of dangerous ash and noxious gases into the air, have consistently taken place here and the park continues to remain closed for safety reasons. It’s unclear what will continue to happen with the current eruption, as activity can change at a moment’s notice. Nor has it been determined when the national park will reopen due to unstable conditions. Even though visitors are unable to visit the majority of the park or get close to the lava flow at the lower East Rift Zone, there are many things you may still encounter and fun facts you can learn about Kïlauea and the ongoing eruption. It is estimated that 700 acres of new land has been added to the Big Island so far. Just remember that you too could face Pele’s wrath if you try to take any of the following natural objects home with you. If you don’t believe it, just ask anyone who works in the Hawaiÿi tourism industry and they will tell you countless tales of people sending rocks and other items back in the mail due to the bad luck they encountered after taking them home with them. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

ÿAÿä This is a type of lava that is associated with having a “rough” surface. It’s more explosive, faster and can form large heaps. As it cools, the lava rock feels light in weight and crumbly, but it’s also jagged and sharp. Closed-toe shoes are recommended when trekking across one of the many old lava fields, as you will definitely walk over ÿaÿä. Pähoehoe This is a type of lava flow that is characterized by a smoother, rope-like surface. It’s generally a thinner, steadier, and easier-going lava, akin to pouring thick molasses out of a bottle and onto a flat surface. Pele’s Hair These are thin golden strands of stretched volcanic glass that are created from fountaining lava. If you look closely, these thin fibers actually look like someone’s blond hair. These fibers can be dangerous to people, as they can easily be inhaled and “embedded” in someone’s lungs during an eruption. Pele’s Tears These small, often smooth black pieces of basalt rock also come from fountains of lava and are often seen alongside Pele’s hair. They are typically in the shape of a teardrop and are hardened bits of basaltic glass. Vog Sulfur dioxide is one of the most abundant gases that arise from Kïlauea, including the fissures in the lower East Rift Zone, as well as Halemaÿumaÿu. The rate of the release of this gas can at times affect air quality, especially in the immediate areas, and people who are working in some of these regions must wear masks. This is one of the toxic gases that are mixed with oxygen and water vapor in sunlight to form volcanic smog called vog. Laze (add more like degree of lava) When hot lava hits the ocean, it creates what it called laze (short for lava haze). It’s a billowy white plume of hydrochloric acid and fine shards of glass that are created by a reaction that takes place between seawater and hot lava. Keep your distance, as this substance is dangerous to encounter and can irritate the skin, eyes and lungs. To find out the latest updates about Kïlauea’s eruption and Hawaiÿi Volcanoes National Park, visit nps.gov/ havo/index.htm. myhawaiitraveler.com

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SAND + SURF KOHALA ‘ANAEHO‘OMALU BEACH (A-BAY)

A-Bay is a lovely, crescent beach with salt-and-pepper sand ideal for sail boarding, windsurfing, swimming and catching a perfect sunset. Palm trees separate the Pacific from the ancient fishponds and petroglyph fields. The water is usually calm so it makes a good family beach. You can walk south on a path upon entrance of the beach to find more private white sand beaches. Equipment rental, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Waikoloa Beach Dr across from the Kings’ Shops. Follow signs to beach.

HĀPUNA BEACH STATE RECREATION AREA

Splendid large white sand beach with clear turquoise water is great for swimming, snorkeling and body boarding. See Maui’s Haleakalä across the big blue Pacific. It’s crowded on the weekends and shade is scarce so plan accordingly. Be careful of the strong rip currents. Lifeguard, picnic areas, snack stand, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 adjacent to Häpuna Beach Prince Hotel with plenty of parking spaces. myhawaiitraveler.com

KAUNA‘OA BEACH

A nationally-ranked beautiful, white sand crescent beach fringed with palms and naupäka is a great place for swimming and snorkeling due to the gradually sloping sandy bottom, except during heavy winter surf. Get there early since public parking passes are limited. Lifeguard, restrooms and showers are available. Located through the entry gate to Mauna Kea Beach Resort off Hwy 19.

KA‘ŪPŪLEHU BEACH

Beautiful scenic white sand beach, with clear, calm water and resting sea turtles. There are fantastic tidepools and a breakwater in front of the hotel making it a great place to swim. Restrooms and showers are available. Located through the gate to the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai off Hwy 19.

KĒŌKEA BEACH PARK

Swim with extreme caution since this charming secluded rocky beach park with its cliff-rimmed cove and green lawn lined with palm trees is often plagued by high wind and high surf. Spearfishing and fishing are excellent, but swimming can be hazardous. Camping, picnic areas, restrooms and showers are

available. Located off Hwy 270, near Pololü overlook about 6 miles past Häwï. Follow the sign onto the curvy road ~1 mile; past the cemetery.

MĀHUKONA BEACH PARK

Former shipping port for the sugar industry is now littered with underwater debris making this quiet beach park a great snorkeling site. The once useful machineries now lying at the bottom of the sea can easily be seen through the clear water. Swimming can be dangerous due to the heavy surf and no sandy beach for entrance (there’s a ladder off the old dock). Camping, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 270 north of Koai‘e Cove State Underwater Park between mile markers #14 and #15.

SPENCER BEACH PARK

Nice sandy white beach is great for swimming, snorkeling and picnics year-round. It is popular with families due to the reef-protected, gently sloping sandy bottom. Volleyball and basketball courts, camping, restrooms, and showers are available. Located off Hwy 270, ~ 1 mile uphill of Kawaihae Harbor within walking distance of Pu‘ukoholä Heiau. 105

WAIALEA BAY OR “69” BEACH

Named for the utility pole marker, this is a lovely white sand beach with crystal clear blue water great for swimming and snorkeling due to its sandy bottom and gradual drop off. Snorkeling is great around the rocky outcropping inside the bay, but the best snorkeling is in the southern portion where depths range from 10 to 30 feet. Mostly the water is super clear, but periodic freshwater invasion by an intermittent stream reduces surface visibility. Exercise caution during the winter months due to high surf. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 ~5 miles south of Kawaihae, south of Häpuna Beach. Turn onto Puako Beach Dr., next take first right onto Old Puakö Road and park between pole #71 and #72.

NORTH KONA KEKAHA KAI STATE PARK

A 1,642 acre coastal state park with some of the best beaches on the island. Mahai‘ula Beach is an exquisite white sand beach great for swimming and snorkeling in the well-protected bay. About a 30-minute walk north of Mahai‘ula Beach is Makalawena Beach, one of the most stunning beaches on the island, with silky white sand and beautiful crystal clear turquoise water with sand dunes and trees as a backdrop and shoreline made up of intricate coves. Located ~2 miles north of Kona International Airport off Hwy 19 between mile marker #90 and #91, take rough 1 ½ mile road to beach.

KUA BAY BEACH PARK

Gorgeous, pristine white sand beach great for swimming is part of the Kekaha Kai State Park. Restrooms are available. Located off Hwy 19 across West Hawai‘i Veteran’s Cemetery ~5 miles north of the Kona Airport.

HONOKŌHAU BEACH

Long, narrow strand of white sand beaches north of the harbor with several protected pools bordered by a lagoon is excellent for swimming and snorkeling. Ai‘opio Beach is a sandy beach with crystal clear water and green sea turtles north of the harbor with protected swimming areas and ‘Alula Beach is a small white sandy crescent beach south of the harbor offering good snorkeling and offshore scuba diving. Kaloko Beach has great snorkeling with sea arches. The beaches are part of the Kaloko-Honoköhau National Park located off Hwy 19. Take turn onto Hohoköhau Small Boat Harbor or visit the park headquarters between mile marker #96 and #97.

OLD KONA AIRPORT PARK

The beach has a sandy inlet with tide pools. Snorkeling and diving are good. Be careful of sharp coral and lava rock when entering the water. Picnic area, tennis courts, jogging path, restrooms and showers are available. Located at the north end of Kuakini Rd off Hwy 19.

WĀWĀLOI BEACH PARK

Fascinating collection of tide pools and sandy beach is a great spot for kids and for exploring nearby secluded beaches. The beach is protected by a natural lava barrier for enjoyable swimming. Pine Trees, a popular surf spot, is nearby; swimming is not recommended. Picnic tables, grills, restrooms and showers are 106

available. Located off Hwy 19 north of Kona Airport close to mile marker #94; follow signs for Natural Energy Lab.

SOUTH KONA HO‘OKENA BEACH PARK

Grey sand beach good for swimming, snorkeling and bodysurfing. Water shoes are recommended for this beach. Picnic areas, restrooms and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 past 101 mile marker near Place of Refuge; follow signs.

KAHALU‘U BEACH PARK

Salt and pepper beach fringed with palms is most popular for swimming, snorkeling and fishing. This dark sandy beach is one of the best spots for snorkeling on the island with an abundance and variety of colorful reef fish and sea life. Beware of high surf and rip currents. Picnic area, restrooms and showers are available. Located on Ali‘i Dr. next to mile marker #5.

KAMAKAHONU BAY

The name means “eye of the turtle”. The beach is a sliver of white sand that is popular with families for swimming, snorkeling and kayaking. Located next to King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel adjacent to busy Kailua Pier on Ali‘i Dr.

MILOLI‘I BEACH PARK

Tidepools and patches of beach with protecting reefs make for great swimming and snorkeling. Near an ancient fishing village destroyed by lava flow in 1927

alive with old traditions. Picnic areas, restrooms and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 ~33 miles south of Kailua near mile marker #88.

NĀPŌ‘OPO‘O BEACH PARK

Located in Kealakekua Bay Marine reserve where spinner dolphins swim close to shore, spectacular for snorkeling, diving and boat tours in the clear, calm pristine bay. Colorful reef fish are plentiful in the welldeveloped reef. Black rocky beach with a steep incline makes ocean access risky, however there is a short pier at the left side of the parking lot. Across the bay, a 27foot white obelisk represents where Captain Cook was killed in 1779. Located off Hwy 11; exit Kealakekua Bay just south of milemarker 111. Beach is at the end of Näpö‘opo‘o Rd., turn right at the end of the road.

LA‘ALOA BEACH PARK

a.k.a. Magic Sands, White Sands or Disappearing Sands because the beach disappears during high surf months and returns in the spring. Gets crowded with body and board surfers. One of the best surfing spots is just north at Banyans. Restrooms and showers are available. Located on Ali‘i Dr. ~ 4 ½ miles south of Kailua.

HĀMĀKUA KOLEKOLE BEACH PARK

Fabulous place to picnic, fish and explore the underthe-bridge park with abundant tropical foliage and waterfalls. The Kolekole stream is fed from ‘Akaka Falls and flows into the ocean. Do not attempt to BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

You must have a relaxing soak or a swim in this clear, warm 95 degrees half-acre pond surrounded by palms and fed by thermal freshwater springs mixed with seawater. The pool is volcanically heated and is easily accessible by ladders. Snorkeling is allowed in the pool. There is a small inlet connecting the pond to the Pacific. Picnic tables, grills and restrooms are available. Located on Hwy 137, SE of Pähoa town.

KEHENA BEACH PARK

Lovely black sand beach with coconut and ironwood trees offers shade and nice backdrop. Swimming can be rough because of the strong rip currents, but it’s a great place to watch dolphins and turtles. The secluded location of the beach also draws nude sunbathers. Located off Hwy 137 about 5 miles south of MacKenzie State Recreation Area, park by other cars and take the well-worn path to beach.

GREEN SAND (PAPAKŌLEA) BEACH

Green crystals sparkle like jewels in the sun next to a magnificent turquoise sea in this unusual, most beautiful crescent beach formed during an early eruption of Mauna Loa. Swimming can be dangerous and there are no facilities, but once you kick off your tennis shoes and have a refreshing soak, you will appreciate the awesomeness of nature’s gift. Take Hwy 11 to South Point Rd in Ka‘ü and go south 12 miles. From here, continue NE on the dirt road to the boat launch and hike the final two miles to this majestic beach.

MACKENZIE STATE RECREATION AREA

swim at the mouth of the river or enter the ocean at this spot because the rough, strong currents and rocky bottom makes it dangerous. Restrooms, showers and picnic areas are available. Located off Hwy 19 about 12 miles NW of Hilo between ‘Akaka and Umauma Falls.

LAUPĀHOEHOE POINT BEACH PARK

Swimming, snorkeling and surfing can be good, but heavy surf makes it dangerous at times. Site of the 1946 tidal wave offers good fishing and beautiful park. Picnic areas, camping, restrooms, showers and electricity are available. Located ~1 mile off Hwy 19 down a well-marked twisting road.

PHOTO COURTESY: KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM

HILO COCONUT ISLAND BEACH PARK

Local family favorite for swimming, fishing, picnicking and tide pools. Shallow pools with sandy bottoms make this beach keiki (kid) friendly. Nice shade provided by coconut and ironwood trees. Located next to the Hilo Hawaiian Hotel on Banyan Drive, cross the footbridge.

JAMES KEALOHA BEACH PARK

Good snorkeling, swimming, surfing, spearfishing and throw-netting. Best to swim and snorkel on the east side of the beach since it’s more protected than the west side, which can be rough with strong currents during high surf. Picnic areas, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19, ~3 miles east of Hilo. myhawaiitraveler.com

HONOLI‘I BEACH PARK

Sandy beach is popular local spot for surfing and boogie boarding on the eastern coast. Strong surf makes swimming difficult. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 at Alae Point.

LELEIWI BEACH PARK

Scenic park with series of inlets, coves and tide pools. It’s a good place to scuba dive. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~4 miles east of Hilo.

ONEKAHAKAHA BEACH PARK

Good family beach with a protected, white sand beach and tidepools. Picnic pavilions, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~3 miles east of Hilo.

RICHARDSON OCEAN PARK

Black sand beach fringed with coconut palms and ironwood trees. Lava outcroppings give swimmers somewhat protection and makes for good snorkeling. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~5 miles east of Hilo.

REEDS BAY PARK

Banyan-lined cove offers excellent swimming in calm waters, but freshwater spring from the bottom keeps the water cold, a.k.a. the Ice Pond. Picnic areas, restrooms, showers, and camping are available. Located at the end of Banyan Drive.

Beautiful 13-acre coastal park located in a breezy, cool ironwood grove along a rocky coastline. Small sea arches and lava tube openings are visible along the coastline cliffs. Swimming is not recommended due to the sea cliff that borders the park, but good shore fishing exists. Beware of occasionals high waves that break on the ledges. Picnic tables, camping and restrooms are available. Located off Hwy 137, 9 miles NE of Kaimü.

PUNALU‘U BLACK SAND BEACH PARK

Palm trees line this inviting lagoon where green sea turtles rest on the black sand, good swimming beach and easily accessible. Near the boat ramp at the northern end of the beach lie the ruins of a heiau and a flat sacrificial stone. Restrooms and camping are available. Nearby is Ninole Cove, a small beach with a grassy area and lagoon good for swimming. Located on Hwy 11, 27 miles south of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.

WHITTINGTON BEACH PARK

Picturesque scenic park rich with vibrant colors and history. Not much of a beach, but a great place to take photographs and explore the stunning views of the park and the wharf built in 1883 to move sugar, then destroyed by the 1946 tsunami. Swimming is not recommended in the ocean due to strong currents, high surf and rocky shoreline. Fishing is popular with the locals on the weekends. Picnic area, restrooms, electricity and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 across from the abandoned sugar mill. 107

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CALENDAR

ISLAND EVENTS ONGOING Free Tuesday Trot: 5K Fun Run & Walk (Tuesdays) - Each Tuesday throughout the year anyone can join Historic Kailua Village’s Tuesday Trot 5K Fun Run and Walk. Big Island Running Company coordinates non-competitive free weekly fun runs, which begins at their Aliÿi Drive store location at 5pm, turn around at Makaeo Pavilion (Old Airport), and return to the point of origin. Visitors, residents, children, anyone and everyone are invited to join the community camaraderie and help promote active, healthy lifestyles. Contact Melissa (808) 327-9333. KINGS’ SHOPS FARMERS MARKET (Wednesdays) - In close proximity to many of the Kohala Coast resorts, this boutique-style farmers market is convenient for the communities on the western coast of the island. Located throughout the Kings’ Shops in the Waikoloa Beach Resort, purchase fresh and affordable produce in a tropical setting. Sample fresh and dried fruits from Hawaiian Rainbow Farms, or purchase some of their handcrafted Hula Hands natural soap. Palani French Bakers features classic and crusty French baguettes, brioche, artisanal breads and fresh pastries. It’s the perfect breakfast option that pairs excellently with the flavors of Honomu Jams & Jellies; try their organic goods made with all natural ingredients from over 100 varieties of fruit and vegetables. Once you’ve enjoyed all the market has to offer, take advantage of great dining and shopping at the various restaurants and retailers from trendy boutiques to luxury brands at the Kings’ Shops premier shopping center. Farmers Market is open from 8:30am to 2:30pm. PORTUGUESE STONE OVEN BREAD BREAKING (Thursdays) - Take part in this historical recreation—making, and then baking traditional sweet bread in a wood-fired oven called a forno, the type used by Portuguese immigrants who came to Hawai‘i in the 1800s. This is a unique, tasty, and hands-on experience! Free. The baking event is from 10am-1pm; around 12:30pm to 1pm is when the first batch of beautiful brown bread comes out of the oven. The loaves ($8) are first come, first served, and sold straight out of the oven until sold out. Kona Historical Society (808) 323-3222. KOKUA KAILUA (Sept. 16, Oct. 21, Nov. 18, Dec. 16)- One Sunday each month from 1pm to 6pm, oceanfront Aliÿi Drive along scenic Kailua Bay in Historic Kailua Village becomes a festive pedestrian-only walkway and marketplace. Enjoy free music, artists, and friendly merchants for great shopping and delicious dining. At 4pm, there is free Hawaiian 110

entertainment on the lawn at Huliheÿe Palace honoring Hawaiian royalty. Bring your own mat or chair and they will be checked for free while you stroll Aliÿi Drive. Shop, dine, and buy local! Call (808) 936-9202 or visit historickailuavillage.com. SEPTEMBER QUEEN LILI‘UOKALANI CANOE RACE (Aug. 30- Sept. 3) – Kai ÿÖpua Canoe Club, one of Hawaiÿi’s oldest outrigger canoe clubs, will host over 2,500 paddlers from all over the world including Australia, Canada, Hong Kong, Japan, New Zealand, Peru, Tahiti, United Kingdom and crews from across the US in the world’s largest long distance canoe race. Hawaiÿi will be well represented with multiple crews on the starting line. Other official Queen Liliÿuokalani Canoe Race events unfold throughout the holiday weekend including torchlight parade and awards lüÿau. Contact Uncle Bo (808) 938-8577 or visit qlcanoerace.com. RUN FOR HOPE 22ND ANNUAL WEEKEND TO BENEFIT CANCER RESEARCH (Sept. 7-9) - The weekend kicks off with the popular Taste of Hawaiÿi Island culinary event on Friday at 6pm. Capturing talented chefs from around Hawaiÿi Island in one place for an evening of tasty delights, drinks and island music at the beautiful Four Seasons Resort Hualälai. The silent auction is a popular annual highlight with unique vacation packages and island gifts. On Saturday, a Shotgun Golf Tournament is at 1pm and Tennis Tournament begins at 2pm. On Sunday, the annual Run for Hope takes place and begins at 6:45am with a warm-up and the race starts at 7am with a 10K run and 5K run/walk along the beautiful manicured resort landscape. The event concludes with refreshments and raffle prizes at the Hoku Amphitheater. Sponsored by Four Seasons Resort Hualälai, 100% of proceeds are donated. For tickets, registration and event info, visit www.active. com/kaupulehu-kona-hi/running/distance-running/ run-for-hope-2018 or call (808) 325-8000. 3RD ANNUAL HAWAII ISLAND FESTIVAL OF BIRDS (Sept. 14-17) - The program will include expert guest speakers, a trade show for outdoor and birding equipment, a children's corner, bird-themed arts and crafts fair, photography workshop, a birding film festival, time to interact with Hawaiÿi Island naturalists and bird experts, and guided field trips on land and sea. Friday and Sunday activities include guided bird watching field trips along the newly created Hawaiÿi Island Coast to Coast Birding Trail, and guided boat trips out of Honoköhau Harbor to watch seabirds. The 90-mile Trail crosses Hawaiÿi Island from Kona on the west

coast to Hilo on the east coast, from rainforest to lava plains. While birds will be the focal points, elements of Hawaiÿi Island’s unique plants and trees, geology, history and of course, scenic view points will also be highlighted. Call Bridget (808) 331-3617 for more info. CHEF FEST (Sept. 17-20) - Chef Fest is a celebration of highprofile dinners, interactive cooking classes and culinary and wine experiences. An exclusive and luxurious culinary experience, Chef Fest features today’s top chefs (Hugh Acheson, Andy Ricker, Brooke Williamson to name a few) coming together to cook, teach and entertain in an intimate and relaxed beach setting. Four Seasons Resort Hualälai, the only AAA Five Diamond and Forbes Five Star hotel on Hawaiÿi Island, welcomes chefs, guests and food lovers alike to our 8th annual food and wine event at our beachfront Resort setting. New additions for Chef Fest 2018 include two exclusive tasting events: Champagne Louis Roederer, as well as COS d’Estournel Bordeaux with Etienne de Nantes. For reservations or tickets, call (808) 325-8000. Visit www.fourseasons.com/ hualalai/dining/chef_fest/ for more information. TASTE OF THE HAWAIIAN RANGE AGRICULTURE FESTIVAL & GALA (Sept. 29) - The 2018 Taste offers outdoor agricultural-themed fun and educational activities 9am to 3pm before culminating with a 5:307:30pm tasting event showcasing locally produced food at the MOC hall. Daytime fun includes agricultural-themed exhibits and activities, local product vendor booths and the viewing of livestock animals. Community school groups and agrelated organizations are invited to provide food concessions for daytime attendees. Admission to the park exhibits is free. The 2018 installment of Cooking Pasture-Raised Beef 101 will be presented by Chef Edwin Goto of Waimea’s Village Burger and Noodle Club. Admission to the 2:30-4pm culinary demo with sampling is $10. Featuring over 20 culinary stations, the evening Taste will be both inside and out of the MOC hall and open to 500 attendees. Admission to the alcohol-free event is $50 presale. Tickets for both the gala and Cooking 101 are available at tasteofthehawaiianrange.com. OCTOBER HAWAI‘I FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL: UNDER THE TUSCAN SUN (Oct. 6) - At the eighth annual Hawai'i Food & Wine Festival's Island of Hawai'i event, be transported to central Italy through a six-course Tuscan feast that will bring the region's rolling hills of olive groves and vineyards to life. Home to Renaissance masterpieces, winding roads lined with cypress trees, and 10 delicious provinces, Tuscany BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

is where the food is genuino (sincere). It is the place of rosemary and sage, pecorino, and roasted game. Six Cuisines of the Sun alumni chefs will craft dishes thoughtfully paired with wines by Southern Glazer's Wine and Spirits Hawaii. For more info and tickets, visit HFWF.me. IRONMAN WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP 2018 (Oct. 13) – The Ironman World Championship, considered one of the most grueling one-day sporting events in the world, will be held in KailuaKona. Over 2,000 triathletes from around the world swim through the waters surrounding Kailua Pier, bike through Kona roads to the Kohala Coast and back, and run a marathon course that ends at Aliÿi Drive for a total of 140.6 miles with thousands of cheering spectators at the finish line. For more info, visit ironman.com or email kona@ironman.com. NOVEMBER THE 48TH ANNUAL KONA COFFEE CULTURAL FESTIVAL (Nov. 9-18) - The festival hosts more than 40 events over 10 days that are wide-ranging and showcase nearly 200 years of culture behind Kona Coffee. There are fun activities for all ages and interests and, of course, loads of opportunities to taste Kona Coffee and experience the celebrated lifestyle. Call Valerie at (808) 990-6511 or visit konacoffeefest.com.

DECEMBER 57TH ANNUAL WAIMEA CHRISTMAS TWILIGHT PARADE (Dec. 1) – Waimea’s famous Christmas parade (the second oldest in Hawaiÿi) includes a Santa float, dozens of units representing Waimea keiki to kupuna including churches, schools, youth groups, community organizations, farms, ranches and businesses, plus a huge brigade of festively lighted trucks. Parade is from 5:30pm to 6:45pm (only emergency vehicles will be able to pass through the town center during this time). As always, Santa has promised to again ride in our parade and afterwards, visit with keiki at Parker Ranch Center’s Fireside Food Court. For information, visit WaimeaTown.org. THE 14TH ANNUAL JINGLE BELL BEACH RUN (Dec. 16) - The Jingle Bell Beach Run began in December of 2005 in an effort to kick off Christmas week with a bang! Rani Henderson wanted this run to be simple and fun. With that in mind, and together with the help of her husband Penn, it has grown over the last few years into a first-class event—one that participants remember, enjoy, and return year after year for more! In addition, awards are given out to the top overall finishers as well as the top three best-dressed Christmas costumes. Raffle prizes follow the awards, so it’s very hard for one to go home emptyhanded. This premier running event features the island’s largest 5-km walk/run and encourages

participation from all fitness levels and running backgrounds. Great fun for everyone and familyoriented! The perfect addition to your holiday celebrations! And parents: be sure to get your kids ready for ‘Santa’s Keiki Dash”—a popular fun run (100-yd & 200-yd events) free for children 6 & under! At Coconut Grove Marketplace; 7:30am sharp. For more info and registration, visit www. kona5k.com. 21ST ANNUAL TRADITIONAL MOCHI POUNDING FOR NEW YEAR (Dec. 29) Akiko’s over the years has become synonymous with mochi pounding. This will be our 21st year. It started with 23 people, mostly neighbors, and now it has become a popular community and public event. This past year we had between 600-700 folks visit our wee village to participate in mochi pounding and other activities. Come and join the fun from 8am to 2pm making traditional rice cakes the “old-fashioned” way. Everyone takes their turn at pounding the glutinous sticky rice for good luck. Fire building starts at 7am to steam the rice. Hearty local style lunch for $5. New year’s crafts, food vendors, fortune telling, massage, I Ching readings, floral arrangements, plantation stories, Okinawan taiko drumming, Hawaiian entertainment & more. Great cultural mix of everything that makes Hawaiÿi so special. Call Miss Akiko (808) 963-2422. All events are subject to change. Check out myhawaiitraveler.com for updates and more events.

January 1-4, 2019

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