KAUA‘I TRAVELER
scaling
GIANTS
Celebrating 15 years!
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MAJESTIC HIKING AWAITS ON NOUNOU MOUNTAIN
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LOCAL VIBE SPA + STYLE THE BEST BEACHES EPIC ADVENTURES FOOD + DRINK WHAT WE LOVE NOW HEALTHY TRAVELING FALL 2016
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TREE OF LIFE
CLIMBING FOR COCONUTS
chasing waterfalls KAUA‘I’S CASCADING BEAUTIES
KAUA‘I SHRIMP SWEET FROM HEAD TO TAIL
CATCH THE
WAVE
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CONTENTS 2
26 WELCOME TO KAUA‘I Paradise Found 56 NORTH SHORE The Majestic and Magical Wonder of Nature 74 SOUTH SHORE The Sun-Drenched Coast from Po‘ipū to Polihale Beach 103 EAST SIDE The Royal Coconut Coast
68 SCALE A GIANT Majestic Hiking Adventures on Nounou Mountain 80 WHAT WE LOVE NOW Trending Culinary Spots on the Island 86 KAUA‘I SHRIMP Sweet from Head to Tail 90 THE HOT SPOT The Shops at Kukui‘ula 92 CULINARY Q&A Chef Eric Bartolome
8 LOCAL VIBE This 'n That Hawai‘i style
94 WARM YOUR SOUL Full-bodied French Reds for the Holidays
20 LOCAL RAVES & FAVES My Kaua‘i
96 DON'T GET SIDELINED Stay Healthy on Vacation
32 AWA‘AWAPUHI TRAIL A Spiritual Journey to the Edge
100 THE WONDERFUL FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS Celebrating Twenty Years of Christmas— Island Style!
40 CHASING WATERFALLS Experience the Splendid Falls of the Garden Isle 52 CLIMBING FOR COCONUTS Good for You and the View
112 WHY DON'T YOU Put These on Your Itinerary
KAUA‘I TRAVELER
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CONTENTS
U KA A’I TRAVELER
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THE LIFE & STYLE OF KAUA‘I
®
Publisher
Kevin Geiger
Editor in Chief Mun Sok Geiger
Contributors
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Coco Zickos Krystal Kakimoto Mary Troy Johnston Christine Coté Daniel Lane Matt Feeser
Copy Editor Joseph Kwak
Cover Image Matt Feeser
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KAUA‘I TRAVELER
ALOHA
EDITOR'S NOTE
Like most people, I have an affinity for waterfalls. Where I grew up wasn’t exactly rich with waterfalls, but Turner Falls was close enough for my family to go often and camp on weekends. The time we spent swimming in the cool pools, exploring the area and catching crawdads is a great source of happy childhood memories. And every time my husband and I headed to Whistler, I had to see Shannon Falls in Squamish each time, because one time just wasn’t enough. And, of course, I made the trip to Niagara Falls like so many do. What is it about waterfalls that we love so much? The scientific reason is that any moving or rushing water gives off negative ions, which makes us feel good, and that is why we are drawn to water. Plus, they are a treat for our senses— beautiful to look at, the sound is tranquil, and the setting is serene—a gift from nature. Each waterfall is different and is ever-changing, which completely adds to the allure. Kauaÿi is abundant with a variety of waterfalls. Some are easily accessible like Wailua Falls and some you can only see from the air like Jurassic Falls (Manawaiopuna Falls), while other tucked away jewels require a hike (Chasing Waterfalls, p. 40). No matter which stunning 6
waterfall you visit on the Garden Isle, you can’t help but to take in all the exceptional, natural scenery that surrounds each one. If you like to hike, then a trek to Hanakäpiÿai Falls on the famed Kalalau Trail shouldn’t be missed for its fantastic views of the Näpali Coast with the falls as a great reward for your physical efforts. Nounou Mountain on the Coconut Coast (Scale a Giant, p. 69) and Awaÿawapuhi Trail in Kökeÿe State Park (A Spiritual Journey to the Edge, p. 32) also offer explorers epic vistas and a heaping dose of sublime splendor. From sea to sky, Kauaÿi is a place of extreme beauty and incredible adventures, and it will share its hidden wonders to anyone that seeks out its gems on this tiny island in the Pacific. Happy hunting.
Warmest aloha, Mun Sok Geiger munsok@traveler.media Editor-in-Chief KAUA‘I TRAVELER
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LOCAL VIBE
SHORT & SWEET
Hawaiÿi is a melting pot of different cultures and inevitably offers some of the best and most diverse culinary options in a single destination. One local favorite is galbi, also known as kalbi, which is often available in plate lunches around the island. Galbi translates to “short ribs” in the Korean language and is a staple in Korean cuisine. Galbi is savory and slightly sweet and is super tasty—it’s so good that it made the list of “the world’s 50 best foods” according to CNNGo. Galbi is traditionally made from beef or pork short ribs that have been marinated in a flavorful mix of soy sauce, sugar, Asian pear, onion, garlic, ginger and sesame oil and grilled. You don’t have to go to Korea (or Los Angeles) to try this famous BBQ dish; just look for it on the menus around the island or even at grocery stores or farmers markets.
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TALKING NUISANCE Declared by the IUCN as one of only three birds on the world’s 100 worst invasive species list, the common myna is a large native of Asia and was introduced to Hawaiÿi in 1865 to control plagues of armyworms and cutworms in the sugarcane crops. It subsequently spread the invasive, toxic flowering plant West Indian Lantana. This highly adaptable bird prefers woodland and farmland, but thrives in urban and suburban environments as it can build a nest in any covered nook or cranny. It has a stocky build with a brown body, black head and distinct yellow legs, bill, and eye patch. Found throughout all of the main Hawaiian Islands, they are sometimes kept as pets and well known for their ability to mimic human sounds. 10
LOCAL LINGO
While here, you may hear locals talk about the different regions of the island using windward and leeward. By definition, windward is the side of the island where the wind blows from the ocean towards the island, whereas the leeward side is where the wind blows from the center of the island out towards the ocean. The windward side of the island is the north and east sides and typically have a wetter, greener landscape, while the leeward side on the south and west sides of the island have a drier, sunnier climate. Each of the Hawaiian Islands has a windward side and a leeward side with unique landscapes and attractions worth seeing and should be experienced. KAUA‘I TRAVELER
Hyatt® and Grand Hyatt® names, designs and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2016 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.
ANARA SPA FIND YOUR OWN PARADISE Feel all tension melt away with a soothing facial or massage in treatment rooms that open to their own private garden. Here traditional healing customs blend with fresh island botanicals to refresh and renew. Weekly and monthly passes available for fitness center and yoga and fitness classes. Full service hair and nail salon. Boutique features comfortable island-wear for every occasion from working out to a night out. For a Hawaiian spa experience like no other, call 808 240 6440 or visit anaraspa.com. grand h yatt k aua‘ i r e sort & s pa | 157 1 P O IPU ROAD | KO LOA , H I 96756
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FLYIN’ HAWAIIAN Ka Hae Hawai‘i (Flag of Hawai‘i) is the only state flag in the United States to have flown under various forms of government and the only one to feature the Union Jack, the flag of the United Kingdom. The eight horizontal stripes represent the eight main islands. There are many accounts of the birth of the Hawaiian flag. One account is that the hybrid of the United States flag and the Union flag was commissioned by Kamehameha in 1816 to represent the Kingdom of Hawai‘i and to avoid international conflict between the Americans and the British. The original flag had seven stripes and was changed to eight stripes officially in 1845. The United Kingdom and France were the first two nations to recognize Ka Hae Hawai‘i for official international use followed by the United States and Japan.
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KAUA‘I TRAVELER
LOCAL VIBE
CATCH THE MOON A lesser-known fish that is valued by many island chefs across the state for its versatility is the opah (Hawaiian moonfish). Opah has a very rich flavor, high in fish oils, and is delicious sautéed, grilled, seared, fried or smoked. There are four types of opah meat, each different in quality and texture depending on if it was taken from behind the head, along the backbone, the belly, or the cheeks. All of the fish’s meat should cook to a white color. Opah do not travel in schools and are thus aren't caught
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in great numbers; they are often found in the company of tunas and billfish. It’s also considered to be a “good luck fish” by many fishermen since it was usually snagged more than it was caught by the fishing lure and was given away as a gesture of goodwill rather than being sold. This moonfish can be found year-round and is sustainably fished; all opah are caught by longlining. If you see opah for sale on the mainland, it most likely came from Hawaiian waters.
KAUA‘I TRAVELER
b e n o w, b e f o r e ve r o n k a u a‘ i
This does not constitute an offer to sell nor the solicitation of an offer to purchase made in any jurisdiction nor made to residents of any jurisdiction, including New York, where registration is required. Tower Kauai Lagoons 9B LLC uses the Timbers Resort ®, Timbers Collection ® and certain other Timbers brand names under a limited non-transferrable license in connection with the sales and marketing of the Hokuala Kauai – A Timbers Resort and the Timbers Kauai – Ocean Club & Residences (the “Project”). If this license is terminated or expires without renewal, the Project will no longer be identified with nor have any right to use the Timbers ® marks and names. All rights reserved.
On one of the most celebrated sites on Kaua‘i is Hawaii’s newest oceanfront resort. A panorama of ocean, shoreline and verdant mountains, Hōkūala – A Timbers Resort is a perfect place to make your home in paradise. Set dramatically on 450 acres, with Jack Nicklaus Signature golf and what will be Hawaii’s most spectacular collection of oceanfront residences and amenities, Hōkūala connects us to the tropical wonder of this ancient isle. Whether your choice is whole ownership or a deeded residence club interest, the debut offering, Timbers Kaua‘i – Ocean Club & Residences is your opportunity to discover paradise, perfected. 808.720.6688 | 800.269.2364 | www.hokualakauai.com/traveler
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LOCAL VIBE
EARLY BLOOMERS Spanning across many of Hawai‘i’s glorious shorelines, you may spot Ipomoea pes-caprae, a trailing vine more commonly known as beach morning glory. Typically found in subtropical environments, the vine flourishes just above the high tide line on coastal beaches. In Hawai‘i, the vine is known as pöhuehue. This species of morning glory is extremely salt-tolerant and is mostly found on or near beaches throughout the Hawaiian Islands. Appreciated for its lovely violet flowers and its antisoil and sand erosion capabilities, native Hawaiians also cultivated beach morning glory for its healing properties. 20
The vine’s seeds, roots and leaves were used as poultices for skin ailments and broken bones, though poisonous in large amounts. And according to legend, kahuna (priest) and frustrated surfers would hit the sea with this vine while chanting to make suitable waves for surfing. Today, Hawaiians still use the vines to drive fish into nets. The flowers themselves are short-lived—blooming in the coolness of sunrise, they close by mid-afternoon and drop off the vine the following day if not eaten by insects first. Wake up early to enjoy the fresh blooms on the beach before they begin to fade. KAUA‘I TRAVELER
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LOCAL VIBE
MY KAUA‘I NAME
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KEITH BUTZ
OCCUPATION
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GENERAL MANAGER - GRAND HYATT KAUA‘I RESORT & SPA
HOW LONG YOU HAVE LIVED IN HAWAI‘I MOVED FROM
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SAN FRANCISCO, CA Favorite beach: Waiÿohai. My wife, Amanda, and I walk to the beach every morning with our dog, Barkus, and often in the evening for sunset. We often see friends surfing or paddleboarding while we are there, which makes it even more special. Favorite food: Sushi at Stevenson’s Library and Honey Toast at Uncle’s Shave Ice. The sushi is incredible and the koa bar of Stevenson’s is timeless! Favorite pastime/activity: Golf at Poipu Bay. Favorite snorkel spot: Tunnels and Waiÿohai. Tunnels provides the most unique backdrop and I was surprised the first time I experienced the drop off of the reef. I also love Waiÿohai because I always spot a turtle. Favorite hike: Mähäÿulepü Trail. You get the best bang for your buck with this trail because it is easy to access. The weather is always sunny and you enjoy ocean, valley, mountain and golf course views. We love sneaking a few carrots to the horses at CJM Country Stables. Although, my wife recently made me do the Hanakäpiÿai Falls Trail and it was exhilarating so that would be a close second. Favorite custom/tradition: Mele oli. The spirituality of the chants is very intense and moving. Favorite hangout: Our länai (patio)—it is like having an outdoor living room and we often have neighbors or visitors drop by to say hello to our dog and enjoy a glass of wine. Favorite Hawaiian product: KonaRed iced coffee—my new favorite. Favorite place to take your guests: Helicopter tour that stops at the Jurassic Falls—it is truly unique and magical. Favorite place to splurge: Anara Spa at Grand Hyatt. The float therapy is my favorite because it relaxes my muscles and is an amazing way to practice meditation. Favorite discover: Makauwahi Cave. My mother-in-law is president of the Houston Archeological Society and thought it was the best place on island. Turns out, all the kids we take there love it, too.
my local faves
MĀHĀ‘ULEPŪ TRAIL 22
Lucky you live Hawai‘i because…hospitality and aloha go hand in hand and I was born to work in hospitality. We love Kauaÿi because there is always a beautiful new place to explore. We have made lasting friendships and love sharing the beauty and fun with our visitors. If you were a visitor, you would want to know…don’t cross a swollen brown stream and always wear sunblock!
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ALOHA
KAUA‘I THE GARDEN ISLAND
It’s no surprise that Kaua‘i typically finds itself ranked as one of the top islands in the world by the readers of Travel + Leisure magazine and the best Hawaiian Island in recent years. There are two of many distinctions Kaua‘i holds that attributed to earning the esteemed awards. The first is that Kaua‘i is the oldest of the Hawaiian Islands, so Mother Nature has had plenty of time to cut deep gorges into the valleys, shape dramatic sea cliffs and sculpt the majestic Waimea Canyon into “the Grand Canyon of the Pacific.” Another primary distinction is that Kaua‘i is also home to the rainiest spot on earth, Mount Wai‘ale‘ale (rippling water), with an average yearly rainfall of 450 inches. Situated almost in the center of the island, this 5,148 ft. tall mountain provides Kaua‘i with the nourishment it needs to earn its monicker as the Garden Isle, with lush rainforests, spectacular waterfalls and verdant tropical foliage. The scenery may steal the show, but it’s the various adventures in the idyllic setting that will get your heart 26
racing. You can navigate one of the Island’s seven rivers on a kayak, trek through the rainforest of Alaka‘i Wilderness Area, wander through multiple jade gardens, hike trails of all levels, and be rewarded with secret waterfalls and golden sand beaches. You can even sit poolside at a five-star resort, where your only exertion is choosing a tropical refreshment. Whatever your pleasure, this emerald island promises a regal vacation. In case you haven’t noticed, tall buildings don’t obscure any of the natural splendors of Kaua‘i. This is because legislation mandates that no structure built on Kaua‘i is taller than a coconut tree. How it has managed to maintain that code after all these years is a mystery, but Kaua‘i is no stranger when it comes to standing its ground. Not even the Great King Kamehameha could take it down. In fact, in an attempt to prevent further attacks on both his people and his Island, King Kaumuali‘i, Kaua‘i’s last reigning king, decided to cede Kaua‘i to Kamehameha in peaceful negotiations. Now KAUA‘I TRAVELER
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ALOHA
that is the original “make love not war” mentality. This peaceful mindset has been passed on through generations and is apparent in island life today. Kaua‘i has the reputation of having the friendliest residents of all the islands. Not only is the Garden Isle the most beautiful, with paradise settings often portrayed in Hollywood movies, but the feel of the island is relaxed, with a laid-back attitude that resonates in the air as much as the sweet intoxicating aroma of its plumeria. As balmy and dreamy as Kaua‘i is, it does experience a change in seasons, so make sure that you plan your activities accordingly. Actually, the entire state experiences basically two seasons. The Hawaiians named them kau (summer) and ho‘oilo (winter). The summer months range from May through September and those of winter from October through April. Although the seasons are usually mild, you should watch out for excessive rain in the winter. In March 2006, it rained for 40 days and 40 nights, and while nobody spotted an ark in the horizon, there was massive flooding on all of the islands. Before making the famous 11-mile trek along the Näpali Coast, make sure that the skies are clear and there is no chance of rain. The change is weather also brings a change in surf.Winter months will bring large swells to the North and West shores, and the opposite goes for summer months. Heed all warnings on the beach to ensure the safety of your family. 28
Kaua‘i’s main vein of transportation is the predominately two-lane Kaumuali‘i Highway. Named after the king, this 82-mile stretch of highway can really get backed up, especially during rush hour. And yes, paradise does have a rush hour. About 62,000 people live on this over five million year old “Fantasy Island,” and 36,800 residents drive. So to avoid any unwanted stress in paradise, make sure to schedule your road trips around peak travel hours. Aside from this, don’t worry if you need to get from one side of the island to the other, as you could do so in about 90 minutes. So if you like the idea of visiting Waimea Canyon, but would rather stay in the quaint and convenient town of Kapa‘a, near award- winning restaurants and cool boutiques, go ahead, as the average commute time to most places is 30 minutes. Kaua‘i has 552 square miles of diverse terrain, which making it the fourth largest island in the eight-island chain. Obviously, good things come in small land mass. Once you have experienced the diversity and the beauty of each town and its attractions, you will soon agree that the Garden Isle is the best island, offering all the elements of a perfect vacation—rural enough to get away, yet a stone’s throw away from indulgence. Perfect. E komo mai. Nou ka hale (Come inside, the house is yours).
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IMAGE BY MATT FEESER
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KAUA‘I TRAVELER
AWA‘AWAPUHI
Trail
A SPIRITUAL JOURNEY TO THE EDGE WORDS STEVE ANDREWS
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“Great things are done when men and mountains meet. This is not done by jostling in the street.” –William Blake who would disagree. The trail begins a mile past Kokee Lodge at a parking lot on the left side. If you need to use the restroom or fill up on snacks and water (make sure you have plenty), it is a good idea to stop at the lodge, as you will be on your own after that. From the parking lot, you weave through the forest canopy for some time as the trail makes its way down in elevation. After a good rain, the trail can be muddy and even covered in water in some spots, so good footwear that you don’t mind getting dirty is recommended. On wet days you might need to traverse through the trees if you don’t want to be shin-deep in muddy puddles. Others, however, will not see any problem getting into the mud. Keep in mind you still have a long way to go, so avoiding wet socks might be in your best interest. As the trail descends further in elevation, it also extends westward toward the ocean. Eventually, the thick forest canopy gives way to the sky and the first clearings
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With each passing footstep and breath, I realized that I would have to make even greater effort to get back to where I started. We were already a good hour into the hike when we broke out of the forest. The thought that each step was another step to add to the return (uphill, no less) was a bit daunting to the task at hand—imua (push forward) to reach the end of the trail. I just kept telling myself it will be worth it—and, it was. For anyone visiting Kauaÿi who craves an adventure where you can travel back in time for dinner, try the Awaÿawapuhi Trail in Kökeÿe State Park. The trail is a 6.2-mile out-and-back that starts out in the inland high country, slowly descending over 1,600 feet to the top of a ridge dividing two valleys on the Näpali Coast. The final vantage point at this ridgetop delivers one of the most breathtaking views on the island. For a place as photogenic as Kauaÿi, this is a large claim. But to stand out at the final lookout spot over two unique valleys and the Pacific Ocean, it would be difficult to find anyone
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from their perch, oftentimes on the old terraces that the ancient Hawaiian residents used here to farm taro and other crops when these valleys were home to many villagers. Seeing the rugged terrain that they tamed will give you an appreciation for their ingenuity and ability to live out in isolation from the rest of the island, especially in the winter months when heavy waves would keep the villagers landlocked. Although the view is stunningly beautiful, it is also a good idea to sit down and close your eyes to allow the other senses to pick up on the powerful energy emitted from the land. The Hawaiians call this energy mana, and the lookout here is one of the best places to feel the special spirit of the place. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that you are high above two valleys and the ocean. Or, perhaps, it is the view transcending into other senses. Whatever that feeling may be, it is present, and taking some time to close your eyes and tune into that energy will be well worth it. After you have spent some time basking at your destination, it will be time to turn around and head back. Remember to allow enough time so that you aren’t stuck in the dark trying to make the strenuous uphill trek back. If you enjoy hiking and using the power of your body to reach rewarding locations, then you will not want to miss the Awaÿawapuhi Trail. The view will last a lifetime in pictures, but the journey itself will be unique to you and what you hope to gain from this trip. KAUA‘I TRAVELER
PHOTO COURTESY: (THIS PAGE/OPPOSITE) MATT FEESER
appear, giving a glimpse of the expansive views of the neighboring valleys and the ocean. But, there is still more to go; if you are the type that needs to know exactly how much further, keep an eye out on the side of the trail where mile indicators help you see just how far you have come. By the time you are out on the high ridge, you will have already traveled over three miles. Here, you will see the Nuÿalolo Valley to your left, and the Awaÿawapuhi Valley on your right. It is almost 2,500 feet down to the bottom, so needless to say it is wise to stick to the trail, as any emergency help will be far off. There is no cell reception here, so you must use even more caution when you realize that calling for help would require someone in the party making the trek back up the trail to the lodge. I do not wish to dissuade you from this trail, but want to highlight the risks involved so you are properly prepared and you take the necessary precautions. The fact that the trail here takes some effort means that the trail does not see heavy traffic. The viewpoint has ample room to sit down, eat some lunch, and talk story with your group or other hikers while you marvel at the view in front of you. The fantastic spectacle invites you to hang around for a bit to admire the beauty found in nature and to enjoy your physical efforts. Although they are next-door neighbors, the two valleys of Nuÿalolo and Awaÿawapuhi are very unique in appearance. The steep cliff sides provide a natural amphitheater that echoes the sounds of goats calling
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LIVE ·YOUR· TROPICAL
Kipu Ranch Adventures offers 2, 3 and 4-hour excursions, the perfect mix of adventure and touring luxury suitable for the whole family. Our experienced guides will lead you through our expansive 3,000-acre trail system on a working cattle ranch, which is full of breathtaking scenery, blockbuster movie hits, cultural history, and Hawaiian legends. All vehicle features and terrain obstacles are exciting enough to challenge and thrill beginners to intermediate levels of off-road enthusiasts. Spend a few hours with us and see why we're the #1 off-road eco-tour in Hawaii!
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C H A S I NG
WA TER FA LLS
EXPERIENCE THE SPLENDID FALLS OF THE GARDEN ISLE WORDS COCO ZICKOS DAVID CHAI 40
KAUA‘I TRAVELER
Kaua‘i is home to one of the wettest spots on Earth. In other words, you’re bound to encounter at least some rain during your visit, just don’t let it dampen your spirits. The beauty of wet weather is that it not only makes the island lush with plant life, it generates some of the most magnificent waterfalls you’ll ever see. A few of these cascading beauties are easy to view and only require a couple of steps away from your vehicle. Others, however, are reserved for the more adventurous and necessitate several miles of hiking through rainforests and ambling across mountainsides.
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Wailua and ‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls Wailua and ÿÖpaeka‘a Falls are by far the easiest to reach and are as dazzling as Hawaiian waterfalls get. Wailua Falls is nestled behind the Kälepa Mountain Forest Reserve and is accessed through Hanamäÿulu. Take Highway 56 (Kühiö Highway), turn onto Ma‘alo Road (Highway 583) until it comes to a dead end. As soon as you step out of your vehicle, you’ll be awed by the Wailua River that plunges into an 80-foot double waterfall. Legend has it that this was where Hawaiian käne (men), most likely those of high status or aliÿi (royalty), would test their tenacity by jumping from the top of the falls into the shallow 30-foot pool below. Rumors suggest that some of these thrill-seekers didn’t survive the tumble. This waterfall’s notoriety was further enhanced during the 1970s and 1980s when it was highlighted in the opening credits of Fantasy Island. ÿÖpaeka‘a Falls is also located in Wailua, although this waterfall is actually accessible through the eastside town. This magnificent site, located in Wailua River State Park, is a gorgeous display of some 150-feet of falling water. ÿÖpaeka‘a 42
means “rolling shrimp” as these native fresh water creatures once abundantly inhabited the area and could be seen tumbling to the bottom of the cascading falls. Though the waterfall is typically segmented and descends into two or three falls, after heavy rains, it boasts a serious display of tumultuously descending water. This gem is located off Kuamo‘o Road— turn when you see the former Coco Palms Resort and follow the road up the hill until you see a large parking lot on the right. Do not attempt to find the way to the bottom of either of these waterfalls—it’s extremely dangerous and visitors have been presented with challenges whenever they try to do so. The trails are unmaintained, slippery and the potential of flash flooding is always a concern. Waipo‘o Falls Waimea Canyon is home to several waterfalls but most notably Waipo‘o Falls. This impressive waterfall drops some 800-feet into the depths of the canyon. You can see it at KAUA‘I TRAVELER
various angles along Highway 550, but if you’d like to get more up close and personal, there is a hike you can take located between mile markers eight and nine, the Canyon Trail. It’s a moderate hike, more than three miles, and isn’t for the faint of heart—plus it can be very slippery and muddy at times. As you near the falls, get ready for sheer drop offs, albeit accompanied by some spectacular views. When you near the end of the trail, veer left and explore the upper falls where people like to get in the water and enjoy a refreshing swim. While this is always an option, know that there are hazards involved when you swim in freshwater on Kaua‘i like leptospirosis, a bacterial disease that will not make for a pleasant vacation experience. After you’ve explored the area, you can back track toward the main trail, but before proceeding on the way out, head left for another great spot to picnic or rest. You’ll feel like you’re sitting on top of the world here as the water rushes past you and you gaze at astonishing canyon spires in the distance. myhawaiitraveler.com
Hanakāpi‘ai Falls If you’re up for more of a challenge, consider hiking Kalalau Trail where there is an opportunity to check out at least one sensational waterfall. Hanakäpiÿai Falls requires an eightmile roundtrip trek, but offers a host of rewards including impressive vistas of the Näpali Coast along the way. Make sure to check the forecast before packing your hiking gear, you have to cross Hanakäpiÿai Stream at several points, and these rapids can get ferocious during flash floods and have been known to endanger many lives. If the weather checks out, however, you’re in for a treat. You’ll spend the first two miles hugging the coastline along an ancient trail and spend another two miles ambling toward the falls deep in the valley. Be careful leaping across boulders as they tend to be slippery. After this challenging journey, relax and admire the estimated 300-foot-tall waterfall and reward yourself with a much-deserved meal or swim. Be sure to remember the dangers of swimming near waterfalls where rocks can, and do, sometimes plummet from the top. 43
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Manawaiopuna Falls (Jurassic Falls) Other great waterfalls to peruse can only be viewed by air— helicopters regularly ferry visitors on tours of remote regions of the island to see such sites. Manawaiopuna Falls, located on a privately owned plot of land, is the most famous of these hidden falls and was featured in the movie, Jurassic Park. Some tours have permission to land here where guests get to experience an exclusive close-up of the approximate 350-foot waterfall. Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale, which means “rippling water,” is another helicopter tour delight. Though there is a way to hike to the bottom of the majestic peak, it’s not recommended unless you have an experienced guide with you that knowS their way through the unmaintained myhawaiitraveler.com
wilderness terrain. The “Wall of Tears” as it is called, is a series of thin, rippling waterfalls that plunge from sheer cliffs starting at the top of the more than 5,000-foot tall, centrally-located Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale. Waterfalls are a stunning visual treat of natural beauty and most people associate it with tranquility. Even if you only have time to see a couple of Kaua‘i’s exalted waterfalls, make sure you soak in the splendor and appreciate what’s in front of you. The Garden Isle’s emerald mountains make the perfect backdrop for these cascading marvels that are beautiful beyond words. Just remember to always keep safety first and respect the warning signs. 45
STYLE
ISLAND STYLE timeless treasures
“Kalapana Kai” Glass sculpture of cresting wave by Hawaii craftsman Daniel Moe (Various prices). Available at Martin & MacArthur in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Shops and The Shops at Kukui‘ula.
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Peace Love World’s fun and exclusive designs featuring the Aloha Tee, Aloha Shorts, and Aloha Hoodie. Luxuriously relaxed and casually elegant, Oasis captures the pleasures of the resort life and the spirit of gracious Hawaiian living. Step into Oasis and allow yourself to be transported into the relaxed, fun, and inviting environment of a beachside cottage. Call (808) 742-8555 or visit shopsofhawaii.com Na Hoku's Waterfall Collection comes in several styles and sizes and is available in 14K Yellow, White or Rose Gold. Located at the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Shops, Po‘ipu Shopping Village or NaHoku.com.
Koa self-winding automatic Monarch watch (left) with precision 21 jewel movement. Sapphire crystal, available in Gold or Silver faces. Fully adjustable band ($1950). All New Koa-Opal ring (below) is made with Big Island Koa and shimmering opal on Tungsten ($349). Available at Martin & MacArthur in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Shops and The Shops at Kukui‘ula.
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STYLE
pieces of paradise
The Golden pearl yellow gold lariat necklace (right) is a Van Balen trademark design. The founder & chief designer Valerie Van Balen has enjoyed creating this particular piece for over ten years. Available also in white gold, this popular design can be customized for you in any South Sea pearl combination of your choice. The diamond hoop earrings (above) are a staple in every woman's fine jewelry wardrobe. With white diamonds set in yellow or white gold, you can enjoy wearing these elegant earrings everyday! Also available in Tahitian black or South Sea white pearls. The pearl cuff bracelet (left) has quickly become a favorite among our elite clients, as well as our staff! This statement bracelet will definitely get noticed. White diamonds in yellow or white gold, as well as South Sea pearls of your choice. Available at Van Balen Fine Jewelry in The St. Regis Princeville Resort
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ISLAND SHOPPING NORTH SHORE SHOPPING Van Balen Fine Jewelry Our internationally renowned pearl jewelry is hand made on Kaua‘i by Valerie Van Balen, crafted with exquisite attention to detail. In addition to her own creations, Valerie has traveled the globe discovering other world class jewelers, whom she now represents. This allows for a virtual “around the world” shopping experience, all within one relaxing location. We welcome you to visit our store and adorn yourself in our exotic pearl jewelry from Tahiti, Australia and Indonesia. We also carry an enticing selection of ethical diamonds in a multitude of shapes, sizes and colors. Our highly educated staff will provide you with flawless service, guaranteed. Enhance your visit to Kaua‘i by selecting from an unsurpassed collection of fine jewelry. Van Balen Fine Jewelry is the exclusive jeweler to the prestigious St. Regis Princeville Resort, open everyday from 9am to 9pm. (808) 826-6555. SOUTH SHORE SHOPPING Grand Hyatt Shops The shops at the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i offer something for everyone. Na Hoku features an alluring collection of Tahitian pearls and more. Collectors Fine Art showcases wall art and handblown glass creations. Lamonts carries sundries, snacks and beverages. The Sandal Tree offers a selection of footwear and accessories. Reyn’s continues its tradition of aloha wear for the whole family. Visit Poipu Bay Golf Shop for designer collections for on and off the course. Try Water Wear for beachwear for every age group. Kohala Bay Collections features casual designer elegance. Martin & MacArthur Martin & MacArthur has been making of fine Koa furniture and home furnishings longer than any company in Hawaii. It also features beautiful personal accessories made with its own private stock of Koa from the Big Island, including the only solid Koa watches, Koa sunglasses, Koa-tungsten rings for a shine that lasts forever, and Koa iPhone/iPad covers. Martin & MacArthur has the widest selection of Koa boxes, bowls, Hawaiian feather lei, canoes and weapons. Also be sure to check out the award-winning contemporary sculptures by Rock Cross. Located in the Grand Hyatt Shops and The Shops at Kukui‘ula. myhawaiitraveler.com
Celebrating 15 years!
Treat yourself... St. Regis Princeville, Kauai Open Daily
8:30am - 9:30pm Phone
808.826.6555
ValVanBalen.com The Shops at Kukui‘ula On the sunny south shore of Kaua‘i, nestled in the renowned resort playground of Po‘ipü, The Shops at Kukui‘ula is Kaua‘i’s premier shopping, dining and fine art destination. The Shops at Kukui‘ula features a combination of internationally and regionally recognized merchants and fine boutiques with one of a kind items. Here you will find designer originals, casual resort and beachwear, slippers and sunglasses, as well as beauty products, jewelry and other gifts which are unique to Kaua‘i. Shops include national brands and regional favorites such as Tommy Bahama, Malie Organics, Sunglass Hut, Mahina, Poipu
Surf, Quiksilver, Reyn Spooner, Crazy Shirts and Blue Ginger. The Shops at Kukui‘ula is also home to extraordinary galleries featuring a unique collection of fine art originals from Kaua‘i and Hawai‘i, as well as revolving exhibits of contemporary art, nationally recognized landscape art photography, sculpture and art objects, and a unique collection of art jewelry and handcrafted items. Galleries include the internationally acclaimed galerie 103, Halele‘a Gallery, Martin & MacArthur, Red KOI Collection, aFeinberg Gallery, Palms Gallery, Latitudes Fine Art Gallery and Scott Hanft Photography. For more information, visit theshopsatkukuiula.com. 49
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island style Fine Australian Opal pendant in 14k gold with diamond accent (below). Grande's Gems offers an excellent selection of fine opal jewelry. Sail Away Necklace in 14k white gold, featuring blue topaz gemstones with fine diamond (right). Available at Grande's Gems.
Sterling silver Coral Branch Cuff (left) designed by Tiffany Grande for Grande's Gems Hawaii. Coral Branch Collection available in 14k yellow, rose, white gold and sterling silver. Available at Grande's Gems. 14k rose gold coral branch ring w/ amethyst (above). Available at Grande's Gems, with locatoins at Kauai Marriott Resort & Beach Club, Kilohana Plantation, Marriott's Waiohai Beach Club or the Princeville Center.
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SOUTH SHORE & LĪHU‘E Grande’s Gems Grande’s Gems Hawai‘i has been featuring nature inspired and romantic jewelry since 1982. Our guests will find fun fashionforward and elegant jewelry in opal, multicolor gemstones, diamond, Tahitian, golden and south sea pearls. Sea life and tropical flower jewelry from Denny Wong and Mikel. Visit us at Kauai Marriott Resort & Beach Club (808) 245-4860, Kilohana Plantation (808) 245-3445, Marriott's Waiohai Beach Club or the Princeville Center, or online at GrandesGemshawaii.com. Mens Hardwear Mens Hardwear is all about the guys. Jewelry, knives, watches, and accessories for men in cool and edgy styles. Featuring men’s jewelry from Scott Kay, Edward Mirell, Triton, and Hellmuth. Tahitian pearl and opal designs from Mens Hardwear collection. Knives from William Henry Studio and Cold Steel. Visit us at our two locations on Kaua‘i, or shop online at menshardwear.com. Na Hoku An incomparable collection of the finest Hawaiian and Island Lifestyle jewelry for women and men; Na Hoku is recognized in Hawai‘i and the world for its exquisite islandinspired designs; from our original Hawaiian slipper (flip flop) pendant, our elegant Palm Tree Jewelry Collection, the timeless Na Hoku diamond solitaire engagement ring and bridal collections, to our extensive Plumeria Jewelry Collection and our traditional Hawaiian jewelry. Featuring unique collections by Kabana, Steven Douglas, Asch/Grossbardt, and Levian, as well as our exquisite Tahitian Pearl designs. Na Hoku jewelry captures the essence of Hawaiian and island lifestyle and is unmatched in quality and craftsmanship. Located in the Grand Hyatt Shops (808) 7421863 and Poipu Shopping Village (808) 7427025 or at nahoku.com. REAL ESTATE Hōkūala Höküala, A Timbers Resort, enjoys a setting among the most spectacular in all of the Hawaiian Islands, a 450-acre natural amphitheater with an unobstructed panorama from the ocean to coastline to sculpted mountains beyond. In the poetic language of native Hawaiians, Höküala means ‘Rising Star’. It is fitting, then, that this epic resort will evolve gradually, beginning with Timbers Kaua‘i - Ocean Club & Residences, a residential enclave located on the ocean's edge of the myhawaiitraveler.com
Pacific. The award-winning Jack Nicklaus Signature Ocean Course, already rated among the very best, features the longest stretch of continuous oceanfront holes in all of Hawai‘i. Höküala offers a rare and delicate balance between adventure and serenity, discovery and accessibility. The evolving vision is to create a place and experience that unites us all in the celebration of the island, its culure, and its people. For more information, call (808) 7206688 or (800) 269-2364. Visit them online at hokualakauai.com/traveler. Kukui‘ula Inspired by the authentic Kaua‘i island culture, and named for the candlenut (kukui) torches that once guided the island’s fishermen back to shore, Kukui‘ula is a Kaua‘i community that offers our homeowners the laid-back lifestyle of classic Hawai‘i. At the heart of our carefully planned Hawai‘i luxury homes, nestled above Kukui‘ula Bay, are the Plantation House, Spa and Makai Pools. From here, the Tom Weiskopf-designed golf course follows the natural flow of the land through the community’s coffee fields, meadows and rolling hillsides — affording wide, panoramic vistas of the Pacific. Call (855) 939-313 or visit kukuiula.com or lodgeatkukuiula.com.
PiliMai by Brookfield Escape to Po‘ipü's newest luxury community. A love of nature and luxury is reflected in every detail of the PiliMai community. Set within the island’s verdant tropical landscaping is a large open-air recreation center, pool house and poolside cabana. There is also a semi-private spa area, a fitness center and a barbecue perfect for hosting visitors. PiliMai offers residents a large resort pool with an adjacent children’s pool, perfect for spending time with family and friends. For those wishing to stretch out in the sun with a good book, the adult pool offers solitude and relaxation. Visit us at 2611 Kiahuna Plantation Drive in Po‘ipü. Call (888) 665-6667 or visit brookfieldhawaii.com. Yvonne Summerfield Come discover Kaua‘i real estate with Kaua‘i's Only 8 Time Top 100 Realtor and you'll discover an island paradise. Yvonne specializes in residential real estate sales throughout Kaua‘i, including luxury homes and estates, oceanfront condos, resort & second home properties, vacation rental properties and land parcels. For exceptional representation call Yvonne Summerfield at (808) 346-7251 or visit YvonneSummerfield.com.
Out of 20,000 real estate agents in the State of Hawaii, 5 Realtors received this award. Only 1 is on Kauai.
“Put The Power Of Performance & Results To Work Representing Your Best Interests”
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CLIMBING -for-
COCONUTS GOOD FOR YOU AND THE VIEW WORDS MARY TROY JOHNSTON
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Coconuts are essential elements of the imagination and imagery of Kauaÿi. Harking back to Elvis Presley’s Blue Hawaii, filmed here in 1961, the Coco Palms Resort served as its exotic location, a luxurious tiki-styled hotel set amidst a romantic grove of arching coconut trees and snaking lagoons. Sadly, the hotel was ravaged by Hurricane Iniki on September 11, 1992. However, the alluring site remains with coconut trees still climbing to the sky attracting visitors who want to imagine the island as it once was. As you drive around the island of Kauaÿi, you will be met with more contemporary images of coconuts. If you happen to look skywards, you might notice a person peeking out of the top of a coconut tree. How did he or she get up there, you might ask? What is the curious contraption that supports the climber? Is it safe to be in the vicinity of whatever is happening in that coco tree? Are the coconuts so desirable that they are worth the treacherous climb and laborious efforts? These are the unusual kinds of questions that might enter your mind if you spot a human high up in the skinny tree. Surely, it’s not an everyday sighting where you live. If you notice a metal platform propping up the climber, you are observing the use of a deer stand (used as a perch in a tree for hunting) to scale the trunk. Tree-conscious (and hugging) climbers no longer use spikes to anchor them on their way up due to the scarring that occurs. Indeed, as you drive around myhawaiitraveler.com
the island, you will likely notice trees that have been cut and splintered by the use of spikes. A deer stand is more difficult to maneuver as the climber inches it up with his feet and locks it in to take a rest when needed. As one fall from a tree can spell disaster, climbers are very careful to check their gear, being sure that safety ropes are in good shape and securely attaching their harness to the tree. The climb is challenging enough, but carrying the sharp tools that is needed to harvest the coconuts and trim the palm fronds increases the risk. Therefore, presence of mind is required as much as any of the specialized equipment. Coco crews perform a variety of services, all of which are important. The first order of business is to remove the coconuts ripe for picking. Left to nature, the coconut tree drops fully mature nuts when they become viable seeds, ready to sprout after they hit the ground. Falling nuts are heavy enough to break windshields of cars and, even worse, injure unwary bystanders. The risks are considerably reduced if the tree remains properly maintained. Removing fronds that have turned brown and ripe coconuts makes the tree optimally productive. According to my son who is a climber here in Kauaÿi, a well-tended tree can produce a new rack of coconuts each month throughout the year. Part tree pruner and part food gatherer, the coco climber juggles diverse tasks from his deer stand in the sky. 53
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"Islanders have known the health benefits of coconuts since ancient times." Besides falling, other dangers lurk in this unusual business as sometimes poisonous centipedes and rats find a home in the crown of the tree. While the climber does the tall work, the crew on the ground gathers fronds and receives the racks of coconuts. If individual coconuts are dropped from the top of a tall tree, there is a chance the nuts could split. Therefore, the climber carefully lowers a rack of coconuts with a rope. The willing receiver guides the rack either into a closely parked truck bed or wheelbarrow. The only thing that remains is for the climber to descend the tree. For certain coconut professionals, this is the moment that makes the job worth doing, throwing caution to the wind and choosing to rappel from the heights. Those who have experienced enough adventure for the day inch their deer stand down the trunk with utmost caution. After recovering from the physicality of climbing, the coco farmer turns his attention to processing the water and meat. This is also a process full of labor and love. Each individual coconut is opened with a machete, tapped with a special hand tool, and the water poured into a container. Approximately five coconuts will fill a half-gallon container. The most experienced climbers can determine the age of the coconuts and find the right mixes between young and more mature for the best tasting water. The younger ones tend to be smooth with a satiny sheen and filled to the brim with water. Older ones show their wear from the wind and have less water, giving way to thicker meat. The most desirable meat comes from coconuts that are seven months and older. It is called spoon meat as it can be scraped from the inside of a coconut (once it is cracked in half) with a spoon or a coconut spoon made by cutting a slice of the husk. People who live on island and who know the climbers ask for the milky meat to make yogurts, and denser meat for chutneys and macaroons. As of yet, we do not have commercial facilities for processing coconut oil and milk. Several home brew operations are trying to get a start producing new products, for example, coconut chips and oil infused with vanilla beans. Visitors have access to coconut water and products across the island. Perhaps the most exotic introduction to coconut water can be had by stopping at a roadside stand where green, unhusked coconuts are lined up and waiting. The roadside vendor will be happy to open the coconut with a machete and pop in a straw for drinking the water. Old Kapaÿa Town is awash in coconuts. Hänai Market sells coconut water on
tap and also offers so-called simmer sauces made from spoon meat, which substitutes for dairy as a creamy base. The sauces change weekly and are especially delicious with seafood, either fresh ocean fish, Kauaÿi Shrimp, or the clams the store sells. The Coconut Cup Juice Bar & Cafe serves the husked coconut with a straw. For that skillful person who wants to open his or her own, Hoku Foods Natural Market sells the whole green coconut and the tool that unlocks the mystery water. According to the manager, Jessica Murray, the store sells about 30 fresh coconuts weekly. Their climber always chooses young green coconuts, which are easier to open. Kauai Juice Co. is clearly having a love affair with local coconuts, creating a variety of cold-pressed juice combinations that utilize the water. The Beauty Tonic boasts a mixture of coconut water, cucumber, aloe, mint, lemongrass and basil. The company uses approximately 20 gallons of coconut water each week, extracted from several hundred coconuts. Islanders have known the health benefits of coconuts since ancient times. Gabriel Monaghan, a respected practitioner of traditional plant-based medicine, describes how families passed medicinal knowledge from one generation to the next. He learned about coconuts from a family recognized as healing specialists in the community and describes the coconut as “the main sustaining factor for keeping a healthy body.” The fibrous coconut, because of its cleansing effects, becomes the “antidote” to processed foods. Monaghan recommends cream from mature coconuts, made from grating thicker meat and squeezing it through a cheesecloth. In the old days, a fiber made from the coconut was used to filter the cream. One to two cups of fresh coconut cream is the most effective cleanse for the digestive tract, according to the Kauaÿi health specialist. From babies being fed the jelly meat from young coconuts, to people who drink the water to strengthen themselves after chemotherapy, coconuts are very much valued here. “For the Polynesian Islands, the coconut tree was considered to be the tree of life,” Monaghan states, “providing thatched roofs, tools, and foods”. Oddly enough, the coconut tree has also preserved ocean views. In light of a curious island regulation, structures on Kauaÿi are only allowed to be as tall as the tallest coconut tree. That measure explains why our beaches are not crowded with high-rises. At last, thanks to the coconut tree for preserving and enhancing our scenery.
DESTINATIONS
The North Shore is tranquil and draped in velvety green, with waterfalls cascading from heaven into a verdant valley and the sounds of gentle surf. At the top of Mount Wai‘ale‘ale sits Alaka‘i Swamp. From this wetland, streams of water flow to the beaches below. Along its journey, the water engraves deep, lush valleys, creating a fertile landscape for the cultivation of various crops on Kaua‘i’s North Shore. The Hawaiians divided this area into three land divisions: Ko‘olau, Halele‘a, and Nāpali. 56
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PHOTO COURTESY: (BOTTOM LEFT) KENT CHASTAIN
THE NORTH SHORE
KO‘OLAU The rural communities of Moloa‘a and Kïlauea lay in the ahupua’a of Ko‘olau. Due to its isolation, the beach community of Moloa‘a is often overlooked by visitors. Just ten minutes north of Kapa‘a, Moloa‘a Bay is a great place for swimming, snorkeling or reading a book. Unlike the rocky beaches of Kapa‘a, Moloa‘a offers golden sand and turquoise water. Kïlauea is a former sugar plantation town. The most frequented visitor attraction here is the Kïlauea Lighthouse. The lighthouse is located on a 203-acre national wildlife refuge. Many migratory birds, such as the Pacific Golden Plover, the Laysan Albatross, and the Nënë propagate here. Sometimes you may even see humpback whales, Hawaiian monk seals and spinner dolphins. HALELE‘A Six small beach towns make up the district of Halele‘a. Kalihi Wai is the first and is primarily known for its surf break. Kalihi Wai means “with a stream,” which is fitting, being that it’s next to one. Spend an afternoon kayaking up Kalihi Wai stream. ‘Anini Beach is just across the river. A bridge once connected the two towns until a tidal wave washed it away in 1957. Vacation homes line the beach here and the ocean stays relatively calm due to a wide fringing reef surrounding it. Windsurfing is very popular here. Up the road is Princeville, the Bel-Air of Kaua‘i. This lavish town sits on a plateau that extends from the upper mountains to lower sea cliffs. A short hike down one of these cliffs will take you to Queen’s Bath, a large protected saltwater pond. Princeville offers many amenities that Hanalei doesn’t (like a
myhawaiitraveler.com
gas station), so fill’er up and head on down to Hanalei. Hanalei is what Kaua‘i probably looked like in the 1800s. Make sure to stop at the Hanalei Valley Lookout, where you’ll find acres of taro fields covering the valley floor. Be on the look out for Beefalo (half cow, half buffalo). Hanalei has become a popular destination for visitors and surfers, and offers some of the largest waves on the island. The water is temperamental, so take heed to any posted warnings. If you can’t swim in the ocean, the Hanalei River feeds into the bay and provides a short but sweet kayak adventure. The valley of Wainiha is believed to be the last hideout of the Menehune, a race of little people. Along this narrow valley lie the remains of old home sites, heiau and taro patches. When you’ve reached the end of the road, you’ve reached Hä‘ena. Explore the wet and dry caves of Waikanaloa, Waikapala‘e and Maniniholo (dry). View Ka Ulu a Paoa, a distinguished hula heiau and discover the underwater sea caves at Kë‘ë Beach. More than likely you’ll end up spending longer than a day here. NÄPALI For the truly adventurous, the district of Näpali is only accessible by foot. The majestic park and coastline consists of streams, cascading waterfalls, dramatic sea cliffs, lush verdant valleys and amazing views. If you plan on doing the 22-mile round trip hike to Kalalau Valley, be prepared. First and foremost, secure a camping permit. Second, pack your bags rationally and third, train! If 22 miles is a bit too adventurous, there are many enjoyable day hikes around the area. Remember, always check the weather conditions before going anywhere.
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GOLF
GOLF KAUA‘I Teeing it up on the island of Kaua‘i means negotiating pristine fairways, tropical landscapes and beautiful ocean vistas. But don’t let this natural beauty distract you, as the Garden Isle offers up some of the true tests of the game that will challenge your skills, and concentration. 58
KAUA‘I TRAVELER
MAKAI GOLF CLUB
The Makai Golf Club at Princeville has long been considered one of Hawai‘i’s premier golf facilities. The distinct layout of the course strategically winds around serene lakes and native woodlands, while capitalizing on spectacular coastline views. With the recent renovation by original architect Robert Trent Jones Jr. complete, the course is now open for play! For reservations and information, please call (808) 826-1912 for tee times or visit makaigolf.com.
POIPU BAY GOLF COURSE
Sprawled between lush mountains and rugged ocean cliffs on Kaua‘i’s sunny South Shore, Poipu Bay Golf Course boasts 18 championship holes that are as visually stunning as they are challenging. Designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., Poipu Bay is one of the most highly acclaimed resort courses in the Pacific. From 1994-2006, the course played host to the annual PGA Grand Slam of Golf, one of the most prestigious tournaments in the golf world. A round at Poipu Bay Golf Course affords you the opportunity to experience the sheer pleasures and daunting challenges of a course recognized as one of America’s finest and to “play where champions play.” Call (808) 742-8711 or visit poipubaygolf.com.
experienceTroon Golf At the Princeville Makai Golf Club
#3 “BEST COURSES YOU C AN PLAY ” IN HAWAII —Golfweek ONE OF THE “TOP 5 GREAT GOLF SETTINGS” IN THE U.S. —National Geographic Traveler
(808) 826-1912
“#65 ON AMERICA’S 100 GREATEST PUBLIC GOLF COURSES” —Golf Digest, 2015/2016
PRINCEVILLE MAKAI GOLF CLUB IS MANAGED BY TROON GOLF,® THE LEADER IN UPSCALE GOLF COURSE MANAGEMENT
myhawaiitraveler.com
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ADVENTURE
ADVENTURE ISLAND The spirit of adventure thrives on the Garden Isle with secret waterfalls, beaches and hiking trails to excite the explorer in all of us. With so much to discover in the vast ocean, valleys, parks and rivers, the choices are endless and the unmatched beauty is complimentary. 60
KAUA‘I TRAVELER
Niihau + Napali Super Tour // Port Allen, Kauai Sightseeing and exploring the dramatic cliffs of the Napali Coast are just the beginning of this amazing day! Saving the best for last, we head across the channel to the “Forbidden Island” of Niihau—and the most remote snorkeling spot in Hawaii. Relax, float, and watch the comings and goings of an aquatic world few people will ever experience. SAVE ONLINE OR BY PHONE
(808) 335-0815 holoholocharters.com
ADVENTURE
ADVENTURE GUIDE AIR TOURS JACK HARTER HELICOPTERS
Jack Harter is the Originator of Helicopter Tours on Kaua‘i. Jack’s motto is “Imitated by All, Equaled by None!” All of the employees at Jack Harter Helicopters work to carry on Jack’s reputation of providing safe, high quality tours that become cherished memories. Choose a 60 or 90 minute narrated tour offered in two types of helicopters. Their luxurious, air-conditioned, 6-passenger Eurocopter AStar features huge floor-toceiling windows for unsurpassed visibility and a two-way intercom system with BOSE noise canceling headsets. Adventurous travelers who seek a little more excitement may want to consider a flight in one of Jack Harter Helicopters’ 4-passenger Hughes 500 helicopters which are flown with the DOORS OFF. FAA Part 135 Certified. Call (808) 245-3774 or helicopters-kauai.com.
SAFARI HELICOPTERS
Safari Helicopters is family owned and was founded in 1987 by Preston Myers, retired commander in the U.S. Naval Reserves. Voted #1 as the Best Helicopters Air Tour Company on Kaua‘i and People #1 Choice. The first to coin the phrase, “Cadillac of Helicopters” due
to the ASTAR 350B2 helicopter’s luxury comfort and floor to ceiling window front and back for unsurpassed visibility. Featuring the BOSE X noise cancellation stereo headsets and FAA Approved multiple camera system to record a video of the passenger’s actual tour. After over 20 years of service, Safari Helicopters continues to offer FAA Part 135 Certified flightseeing tours on two major Hawaiian Islands – Kaua‘i and the Big Island. Most of our full time pilots are military veterans; have Airline Transport Pilots License (ATPL) the highest level of certification by the FAA. Reservations (808) 246-0136 or 800-326-3356 or safarihelicopters.com.
SUNSHINE HELICOPTERS
Experience Kaua‘i’s hidden wonders that can only be discovered from the air. See areas where no one has ever set foot. Your tour will include famous areas that make Kaua‘i a favorite location for Hollywood filmmakers. You will see lush valleys dotted with waterfalls, colorful Waimea Canyon and the impenetrable Näpali Coast known for its towering razor sharp cliffs and secluded beaches. Depart from Lï‘hue Heliport or the exclusive Princeville Heliport. Call (808) 245-8881.
take the leap
on Skyline’s “Plank” zipline
EXPLORE KAUA‘I ATV TOURS
Venture into Kaua‘i’s lush, tropical paradise on the back of a semi-automatic, easy to use All Terrain Vehicle. Choose one of our daily ATV expeditions through the gorgeous mountains of Kaua‘i’s south side for an unforgettable experience on the road less traveled. Ride your own ATV on 22,000 acres of private dirt roads and trails. Enjoy breathtaking mountain and coastline views, unspoiled tropical landscapes inaccessable to the general public and a half mile tunnel through the heart of the Ha‘upu mountain range. Come join us for the ultimate off-road adventure. Call (808) 742-2734.
KIPU RANCH ADVENTURES
We are proud to be one of the top eco-tours in Hawai‘i. We enable visitors and residents alike to discover the rich history, landscape and legends that make Kaua‘i unique. Guests return to us year after year because of our enthusiastic dedication to high standards of quality and service. Adventure lovers enjoy the thrills of our ATVs while nature lovers and photography enthusiasts enjoy our Rhino and Ranger passenger tours. We also cater to private groups, families, companies and weddings. Spend a few hours with us and see why we are the number one ATV tour in Hawaii! You will be deeply moved by your experience of genuine aloha, history and tropical adventure. Call (808) 246-9288 or visit kiputours.com.
KOLOA ZIPLINE
Come experience the breathtaking beauty of Köloa; from the beauty of the natural settings to the preservation of the rich history of the land. Travel through and above a variety of ecosystems located on Grove Farm lands on 8 fantastic ziplines. Watch the sun set on our Sunset Tour and fly hands free over the jungle like your favorite super hero in our custom upgradeable Flyin’ Kauai’an Harness. Brave the island’s longest lines at Koloa Zipline! Call (808) 742-2734 or visit koloazipline.com.
SKYLINE ECO ADVENTURES
*Some restrictions apply.
Minutes from the sandy beaches of the Po‘ipü Resort area, Kaua‘i’s newest zipline thrills guests with 8 spectacular ziplines that soar over lush mountain valleys. Enjoy sweeping ocean and mountain views, edge-ofyour-seat adventure, and bragging rights with your friends back home! Trust the first and most experienced zipline operator in the U.S. - with nearly 2 million safe zipline crossings on multiple courses, Skyline Eco Adventures utilizes the safest and most proven zipline operational system in Hawai‘i. Visit our retail store at The Shops at Kukui‘ula in Po‘ipü. Call (808) 878-8400 or (888) TO-GO-ZIP. Visit us online at zipline.com.
zipline.com/Kauaitraveler or call 808-419-7948 62
KAUA‘I TRAVELER
MULTI-YEAR WINNER!
“Our pilot was terrific and his narration was superb. The whole staff was friendly, attentive and helpful from the minute we arrived for check-in until we waved Aloha.
The entire experience was the
absolute high point of our vacation.” Satisfied JHH Customer
Eurocopter AStar “Doors-On”
“Going to Kauai and not taking a helicopter flight is like going to the Sistine Chapel and not looking up.” The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook
Hughes 500 “Doors-Off”
Now all you have to do is decide…
Do we fly “Doors-On” or “Doors-Off”?
808.245.3774 www.helicopters-kauai.com myhawaiitraveler.com
Off-Island Toll-Free: 1.888.245.2001 FAA Part 135 Certified | 4231 Ahukini Road, Lihue, HI 96766 Tour paths will vary according to weather conditions. Weight Restrictions Apply. 24-Hour Cancellation Notice Required.
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ADVENTURE SNORKEL, SAIL & SURF BLUE DOLPHIN CHARTERS
The highlight of any vacation has to be a Kaua‘i Näpali Coast sailing tour, sailing down the Näpali with dolphins surfing at the bow of your catamaran, is the ultimate in ecotourism and adventure travel. We offer the best ocean sightseeing experience and whale watching tours of any charter boat company in the Hawaiian Islands. Our Kaua‘i sailing tours also venture to Ni‘ihau, The Forbidden Island, and along the shores of Po‘ipü Beach for a romantic sunset sail. Everyone enjoys scuba diving, snorkeling, fishing, and the true spirit of aloha from our experienced, fun loving, crew. (808) 335-5553. Visit us online at kauaiboats.com. Located in Port Allen Marina Center in Ele‘ele.
HAWAIIAN SURFING ADVENTURES
We provide quality surf instruction in beautiful Hanalei Bay, Kaua‘i, creating the memory of a lifetime. What makes us stand out from the competition? Our surf instructors are lifeguard certified, the lessons include top of the line surf boards and leashes/custom rash guards and our instructors are all big wave riders themselves. Yet, they know how to make sure your experience is fun while you accomplish your goal of surfing. Call us today at (808) 482-0749.
HOLOHOLO CHARTERS
The memories should last a lifetime, not the trip getting there. Our two boats, Leila and Holo Holo, get you to the action quicker than anybody else, so you have more time to snorkel, sightsee, relax and enjoy the pristine waters and spectacular cliffs of Kaua‘i’s Näpali Coast, and the “forbidden island” of Ni‘ihau. We offer morning snorkel sails along the Näpali Coast with an optional tour to Ni‘ihau. We also offer romantic Näpali sunset sails in the evening. Located in the Port Allen Marina Center in Elee‘le. Call (808) 335-0815 for reservations or visit us online at holoholocharters.com.
KAUA‘I SEA TOURS
Kaua‘i Sea Tours is unique among the boat tour operators on Kaua‘i, as they offer both traditional catamaran tours and adventurous zodiac boat tours of the Näpali Coast. Both tours are run by experienced boat captains, who are educated on Kaua‘i wildlife, conservation and history. Come aboard Kaua‘i Sea Tours for a “can’t miss” adventure! Take advantage of our unique permits to land on the Näpali Coast and hike into an ancient Hawaiian Fishing Village. Enjoy our delicious, catered lunch on board and view some of the most diverse marine life in Hawai‘i. We’ve been granted a State Parks Special Use Permit, which means you’ll see remote beaches where others can’t go. Tours depart from Port Allen Marina Center in Ele‘ele, 4353 Wai‘alo Rd. Ste 2B-3B. Call (808) 826-7254 for reservations.
SNORKEL BOB’S
Snorkel Bob Brand masks for every shape & size-The SEAMO BETTA™ & LI’L MO BETTA™ are Rx 64
receptive in a minute. The BUBBA SNORKELS (adult & kid sizes) drain splash water, block backwash and clear easy. Sumo™ Mask & Bigfoots™ fins (15-17) for the mongo among you. Boogie boards, beach chairs & FREE 24-HOUR INTERISLAND GEAR RETURN. Book 2 seats on most activities and get a FREE Boogie Board for the week. Open 8 to 5 Every Day. Located in Kapa‘a (808)823-9433 and Koloa (808)742-2206, or visit snorkelbob.com.
ATTRACTIONS NORTH SIDE ALAKA‘I WILDERNESS PRESERVE
The Alaka‘i Wilderness area is a mystical rainforest in the high plateau near Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale and is home to some of Hawai‘i’s rarest plants and endangered birds. On clear days, you can see breathtaking views of Hanalei and Wainiha valleys. The park includes nature trails and a boardwalk over marshy terrain to explore the most interior park in Kaua‘i. The Alaka‘i Swamp is 10 miles long and two miles wide. Wear appropriate hiking clothes (bring a sweater) and shoes. The boardwalk can be very slippery, wet and muddy at times. The trail ends at the vista of Kilohana on the edge of Wainiha Pali. Located off Hwy 550 adjacent to Köke‘e State Park. Call (808) 335-9975 for weather info in Köke‘e or hawaiitrails.org.
DRY AND WET CAVES
Maniniholo Dry Cave is said to have been dug out by Manini-holo, the chief fisherman of the Menehune in search of an evil spirit who stole the fish intended for the Menehunes. Scientifically, sea caves are formed by ocean waves pounding away at the lava for thousands of years. The grotto is covered with fern and vines and is located across Hä‘ena Beach Park off Rte. 560. Waikapala‘e Wet Cave and Waikanaloa Wet Cave are the remains of an ancient lava tube created by the forces of the sea. The cold water in the caves is fed by underground springs and the level of water depends on the tides. The caverns are said to have been used as a gathering place for chiefs in ancient times. Swimming is not recommended due to the presence of leptospirosis found in fresh water. Wear appropriate shoes to prevent injury from the slippery lava rock. Located western end of Rte. 560. Both wet caves are located just before mile marker #10 on the left, past Hä‘ena Beach Park.
HANALEI VALLEY OVERLOOK
More than beautiful, the Hanalei Valley is mystical, magical and substantial, with spectacular vistas and a half-mile patchwork of taro ponds. The fertile and ancient kalo lo‘i (the flooded taro fields) of Hanalei have fed the Hawaiians since the first Polynesians arrived here over a thousand years ago. Currently, it still produces most of the state’s taro for poi, a Hawaiian staple. You can see the 900-acre National Wildlife Refuge from the overlook. Located on Hwy 56 in Princeville.
KĪLAUEA LIGHTHOUSE
A National Historic Landmark, this lighthouse had the largest clamshell lens of any lighthouse in the world and served as a beacon since it was built in 1913 to guide passing sea and air traffic. The light was replaced in the 1970s with a low-maintenance light beacon. You can walk into the lighthouse but not the lantern room. Located on Kïlauea Lighthouse Rd. Open daily 10am4pm. Call (808) 828-0168.
KĪLAUEA POINT NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE
A refuge for several species of seabirds, some nesting and some endangered, surrounds the lighthouse. Red-footed boobies, Laysan albatrosses, wedge-tailed shearwaters and the magnificent frigate bird with 7½foot wingspan are just some examples of birds that can be seen at the refuge. Make reservations for the twohour guided hikes through the refuge, available Monday through Thursday. Located on Kïlauea Lighthouse Rd. Open daily 10am-4pm. Admission is $3 per person; children under 16 are free. Call (808) 828-0168.
LIMAHULI GARDENS
Beautiful botanical garden in a lush tropical valley is used to preserve native flora and fauna in its natural environment. It is also home to endangered plants. Built by early inhabitants, you can walk through the lava terraces and see the working taro patches in the ancient Hawaiian tradition. Reservations are required for guided tours. Self-guided tours are $15 for adults and free for children 12 and under. Wear comfortable walking shoes; umbrellas are provided (mosquito repellant may be necessary). Open Tuesday-Friday from 9:30am-4pm. Located on Rte 560 in Hä‘ena. Call (808) 826-1053 or ntbg.org.
NĀPALI COAST AND STATE PARK
The Kalalau Trail is an 11-mile trek through the spectacular Näpali Coast. From Kë‘ë to Hanakäpï‘ai Beach is about 2 miles. There is an uneven trail (for the physically fit) to a waterfall and freshwater river pool about 2 additional miles back of the Hanakäpï‘ai Valley. The park consists of streams, cascading waterfalls, high sea cliffs, lush valleys and amazing views. The hike beyond Hanakäpï‘ai can be strenuous and is suitable for experienced hikers only. There are several campsites in the park, but make plans well in advance since permits are limited and the wait list can be long. The trailhead for Kalalau Trail is at the end of Hwy 56. Call (808) 274-3444 or visit hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/fees.html for camping information.
WAI‘OLI MISSION HOUSE
Built in 1837, the missionary home is set in beautiful Hanalei Valley and was restored by descendants of the first missionaries Lucy and Abner Wilcox. The house was restored in 1921 by the granddaughter and houses historical furnishings made from koa wood. Located off Kuhio Hwy. Free. Open Tues., Thurs., and Sat. 9am-3pm. Call (808) 245-3202. KAUA‘I TRAVELER
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ADVENTURE EAST SIDE FERN GROTTO
A beautiful, natural amphitheater of volcanic rock covered with enormous fishtail ferns, is the venue of choice for many weddings. The only way to reach the Fern Grotto is either to kayak upriver or book a boat ride. The latter has the reputation of being a bit cheeky and a tourist trap, but if you don’t feel like the exercise then be prepared to sing along. Nevertheless, you will enjoy the lush, tropical scenery along the way. Located in Wailua River State Park.
KAMOKILA HAWAIIAN VILLAGE
An authentic recreation of an ancient Hawaiian folk village illustrates ancient Hawaiian lifestyle on 3 acres of private land. The last king of Kaua‘i once resided here. Several huts and displays show how ancient Hawaiians lived, including a courtyard featuring Hawaiian games, such as spear throwing and Hawaiian bowling, which were essential in building skills. Admission: $5 adults, $3 children for self-guided tours. Located on the east shore of the Wailua River Valley at 6060 Kuamo‘o Road (Rte 580) across from Öpaeka‘a Falls. Call (808) 8230559.
KEĀHUA ARBORETUM
The serene 30-acre refuge with streams and freshwater pools is a perfect setting for a picnic surrounded by mountains and lush foliage. The arboretum is divided by the stream and has a variety of foliage including monkeypods, mango, eucalyptus trees, ‘öhi‘a lehua and hibiscus. Picnic areas and pavilions can be found throughout the area for your enjoyment. There are two short hiking trails through the park. You can access the trailheads for Kuilau-Ridge Trail (incredible views from this trail) and the Moalepe Trail from this area. Open sunrise to sunset. Located down the road from the Wailua Reservoir on Hwy 580. Call (808) 241-4463.
ŌPAEKA‘A FALLS
This beautiful waterfall is the easiest to view, as it tumbles out of the jungle into a dramatic plunge over a high cliff about a 150-feet into the Wailua River. The name means "rolling shrimp," for the days when swarms of shrimp were seen rolling in turbulent waters at the base of the falls. The best time to view the cascading falls is mid-morning, and the best view is from the path along the highway. Located in Wailua off Hwy 56 on Kuamo’o Rd (Rte. 580) at mile marker 6.
ROYAL BIRTHSTONES
Royalty came to Wailua from the neighboring islands to give birth at the sacred birthstones of Pöhaku Ho‘ohönau. According to legend, if the child was to become a great chief, the heavens would rupture with thunder and lightning followed by rain. When the baby’s umbilical cord fell off, it was wrapped in kapa (cloth made from bark) and placed in the crevices of the Pöhaku Piko for safekeeping. Located Kuamo‘o Rd. (Rte. 580) in Wailua River State Park. 66
SLEEPING GIANT VIEWPOINT
This formation on Mt. Nounou that sort of resembles a giant is a landmark between Wailua and Kapa‘a. There are several myths and legends surrounding the Sleeping Giant. According to one, the villagers tricked a giant named Puni into eating stones to keep him from eating all the fish and taro, and he fell asleep with a full tummy, never to wake again. Mount Nounou Trail is about a two-mile trek through the forest to the summit of the Sleeping Giant’s belly with spectacular views of the Island and sometimes, O‘ahu can be seen 110 miles east. The hiking trail begins on Haleilio Road. To view the Sleeping Giant, look for the sign marking the viewing area near the Chevron station in Kapa‘a. Located off Hwy 56.
WAILUA RIVER STATE PARK
A popular place to spend a day for the wide range of activities, as well as the lush scenery of tropical foliage, Wailua River is the only navigable river in the state. Activities in the park include water skiing, kayaking, hiking trails, famous waterfalls, the Fern Grotto, an ancient Hawaiian Village, and seven sacred heiau and historic landmarks. At the mouth of the river, ancient petroglyph carvings on large stones can be seen depending on the amount of sand in the area. Once the banks were a favorite dwelling place for high chiefs and kings of Kaua‘i. If you want to kayak on your own without a guide, only three kayak rental companies rent kayaks for the Wailua River. Kayakers should stay on the right side of the river. No guided kayak tours are available on Sundays. Wailua River is located off Kuhio Hwy. Scenic views and historic sites can be accessed from Kuamo‘o Rd. Call (808) 241-4463
LI‘HUĒ & SOUTH SIDE ‘ALEKOKO (MENEHUNE) FISHPOND
Built for a young chief, this fishpond was unique in that it was built for the river instead of the coast like most others. The fishpond once covered 40 acres and consisted of a 900 ft. long wall that separated the fishpond from the stream, but today only remnants remain of the great wall. According to legend, the Menehune built the massive aquaculture facility in one night before sailing away on a floating island. Located off Hwy 50. Take Puhi Rd. to the end, and then turn left on Hulemalu Rd. The fishpond can be seen from the overlook.
GROVE FARM HOMESTEAD
The lovely plantation home was built in 1864 and opened as a living museum in 1978, featuring many displays and exhibits to paint the life of the sugar plantation days gone by. The historic home is beautifully furnished and has a staircase made from native koa wood. The grounds include giant trees and tropical flower gardens. Located south of Lihue on Highway 58. Admission is $20 and $10 for children 12 & under. Access is by tour only, which is offered twice a day Mon., Wed., and Thurs. at 10am and 1pm. Call (808) 245-3202 to make reservations in advance.
KAUA‘I MUSEUM
With artifacts, vintage photographs and exhibits, Kaua‘i Museum presents a factual look into Kaua‘i’s history. The galleries include a permanent collection of ancient Hawaiian artifacts. Located 4428 Rice Street. Admission is $10. Call (808) 245-6931 for information.
KĪPŪ FALLS
The beautiful falls are popular with locals and tourists alike. The falls are fed by Hule‘ia Stream on its way to Näwiliwili Bay and drop off into an inviting crystal blue pool. NEVER dive or jump into the pool, and evaluate the water conditions before entering. It’s a good idea to wear reef shoes since the rock wall can be very slippery. Keep in mind that leptospirosis bacteria can be present in freshwater streams. Located off Kïpü Road one mile past Puhi. Turn left onto the dirt road before the bridge. Park your car near the gate. A short walk downstream leads you to the falls.
KUKUI O LONO PARK
Because the park is set on top of a hill, you will enjoy spectacular panoramic vistas in every direction. Stroll through the lovely serene Japanese-style garden or play the public golf course. The tranquil park is a lovely place to have a romantic picnic with sweeping ocean views of Läwa‘i Valley. Kukui O Lono means light of the god Lono. Located on Papalina Road off Hwy 50 in Kaläheo.
NATIONAL TROPICAL BOTANICAL GARDEN
The National Tropical Botanical Garden is an exceptional preserve and houses the world’s largest collection of rare and endangered plants, and includes the Allerton, McBryde and Limahuli (North Shore.) The gardens are stunning examples of native landscape and design. The NTBG provides a haven for tropical endangered plant species to thrive and focuses on the cultivation of traditional medicinal plants. The Allerton Garden sits on the site of Hawai‘i’s Queen Emma’s summer cottage. This 80-acre tropical retreat hosts the Island’s living treasures in an enchanting garden and also has a private beach that turtles use to lay eggs. It’s a good idea to make advanced reservations for the Allerton Garden since tours are limited. McBryde Garden is set in seclusion between rugged cliffs, making it ideal for learning about the native plants while viewing rare and endangered Hawaiian species. Call (808) 7422623 or visit ntbg.org.
PRINCE KŪHĪO PARK
At Prince Kühïo Park you can pay your respects to Hawai‘i’s first delegate to the U.S. congress, Prince Jonah Kühïo Kalaniana‘ole. He is known as “People’s Prince” because of his great accomplishments for native Hawaiians. A state holiday is observed in his honor, while the park honors his birthplace with a statue. While here, you can see the Hoai Heiau, the foundation of Prince Kühïo’s home, and the royal fishpond. Located on Läwai Road. KAUA‘I TRAVELER
SPOUTING HORN
To the west of the park is Spouting Horn, a cascade of water that shoots up like Old Faithful from an opening of an ancient lava tube with every incoming wave. Located across from the National Tropical Botanical Garden on Läwai Road.
TREE TUNNEL
Giant eucalyptus trees planted over 150 years ago by Scotchman Walter Duncan McBryde create the Tree Tunnel, the gateway into Koloa and Po‘ipü. Turn south on Hwy 520, Maluhia Rd.
WAILUA FALLS
A stunning 80-foot tiered waterfall is easy to view close to the roadside lookout. Nicknamed the Fantasy Island waterfalls for the prominent opening scene of the falls for the hit television show. It’s best to view the falls in the morning when the sun adds to the beauty of the falls. The power of the falls depends on the rainfall. A slippery hike down a steep trail leads you to the bottom of the waterfalls for a cool swim. Located off Hwy 56, end of Ma‘alo Rd.
WEST SIDE CAPTAIN COOK’S MONUMENT
Captain James Cook, the British explorer, landed in Waimea Bay in January 1778 with his ships Resolution and Discovery, marking his first visit to the Hawaiian Islands. Facing the sea, a statue of Cook stands in Waimea to mark the historic event that would forever change Hawai‘i. Located in Hofgaard Park in the downtown area.
KALALAU VALLEY LOOKOUT
PHOTO COURTESY: KENT CHASTAIN
The lookout provides panoramic views into the majestic valley—without breaking a sweat—from the 18 mile marker. It is one of the most spectacular views on earth with striking sea cliffs and the cobalt Pacific looks into the largest valley in Näpali. Kalalau Valley is dramatic, with jagged emerald ridges, and is best viewed in the morning to avoid the clouds. Further ahead is Pu‘u o Kila Lookout, which offers even more astonishing views of the valley and the deep blue ocean. Both lookouts are located at the end of the Köke‘e Road. Call (808) 335-9975 for weather information.
KŌKE‘E NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM
This little museum provides interpretive programs and exhibitions about Kaua‘i’s climate, geology and ecology. The museum has great information about the forest, hiking trails and conditions and sells maps and local books. Located past the 15 mile marker off Köke‘e Road. Turn left after the park headquarters. The museum is next to Köke‘e Lodge just before the campground. Open everyday 10am-4pm. Free. Call (808) 335-9975 or visit kokee.org.
MENEHUNE DITCH (KĪKĪ A OLA)
Only remnants remain of what was once a great watercourse and aqueduct that extended 25 miles up the Waimea River—made from smooth lava stone brought from Mokihana. Legend has it that the Menehune, race of little people, built the ditch in one night for the high chief of Waimea to irrigate the taro patches for Waimea residents for payment of shrimp. Archaeologists say the historic site was built before Polynesians came, possibly by the Menehune. Located off Hwy 50 on Menehune Rd. just before the 23mile marker.
WAIMEA CANYON LOOKOUT
The Grand Canyon of the Pacific is a breathtaking gaping gorge with dramatic ridges and deep ravines shaped by the steady process of erosion and collapse of myhawaiitraveler.com
the volcano that formed Kaua‘i. It is roughly 10 miles long and 3,600 feet deep. The canyon is spectacular and majestic with jewel-tone colors of reds and greens. Take the scenic but narrow drive on Waimea Canyon Drive (Rte 550) from Hwy 50, or turn up the steep Köke‘e Road at Kekaha. The two roads merge into Köke‘e Road after a few miles up. Waimea Canyon Lookout is between mile markers 10 and 11. Check out the spectacular vistas from scenic lookouts at Pu‘u Hina Hina (3,336 feet elevation), where the private island of Ni‘ihau can be seen on clear days, and Pu‘u Ka Pele where the Waipo‘o Falls are visible after a heavy rainfall. Be prepared for cooler weather, and make sure you have some fuel in your car. Waimea Canyon Drive ends at Kalalau Lookout about 4 miles above the park. 67
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GIANT MAJESTIC HIKING ADVENTURES ON NOUNOU MOUNTAIN
WORDS CHRISTINE COTÉ IMAGES MATT FEESER
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Rising from the lush valley along the Coconut Coast is Nounou Mountain, better known as Sleeping Giant. It’s named Sleeping Giant due to its unmistakable profile formed along the mountain ridge, which is seen from different areas around Kapaÿa. If you want to enjoy a scenic hike that offers panoramic and coastal vistas and the perfect spot for a picnic lunch, then the Sleeping Giant hike definitely tops the “must-do” list while visiting Kauaÿi. Many people don’t realize there are actually three main trails up to the top of Sleeping Giant, and each trail offers unique views from different sides of the mountain. The West Trail is the shortest trail up to the top of Sleeping Giant at roughly 1.5 miles, but it’s the steepest way up overall. The first part of the trail is more gradual as it starts from farm fields, off of Lokelani Road and transports you into a forest of Norfolk pines, used by Europeans for their sailing vessel masts years ago. The assent from here to the top is steep and mostly winding, but offers great views of King Kong Mountain (Kalalea Mountain’s nickname comes from its resemblance to King Kong’s profile). On the south side is the Kuamoÿo-Nounou Trail (approximately 3 miles)—it’s the longest and most gradual of the routes, for most of it, until it joins the West Trail in the Cook Island pine grove. The trailhead starts by horse pastures off of Kuamoÿo Road. Hiking to the first lower picnic bench area is a good first stop to take in the views of the valley and, on a clear day, you may be treated to the majesty of Mount Waiÿaleÿale (its name roughly translates to “rippling water”). With an elevation of roughly 5,148-feet, it is known as “one of the wettest places on earth,” and the second highest peak on the island. Trail runners like this route and it’s suited to those who have time to take in a longer, less vigorous hike under the shaded canopy of the Nounou Forest Preserve. The sunny East Trail is the ocean-view route, and at approximately 1.75 miles, it intersects with the West Trail just before the picnic tables at the top. The trailhead starts just outside of Kapaÿa near the end of Haleilio Road. The ocean views of Kapaÿa and Wailua coasts are stunning! This route is popular for morning hikers, but it’s also a good hike during other times of the day, except when it’s very hot or raining. One section of the hike requires using hands to climb a rocky cliff area, which is what earns it a moderate difficulty rating. We passed an elderly couple outfitted in hiking boots and hats walking at a good pace and using walking sticks to steady themselves, so it seems to be a good trail for a variety of ages and abilities—especially if you’re in good shape, prepared and careful. Your views from the top of the mountain are worth every step on the way up. Resting just below the Giant’s “chin” and above 70
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its “belly” is a grassy area with covered picnic tables. After this moderate hike, you may have worked up an appetite, so this is a great spot to enjoy your packed lunch and take in the spectacular views from the different vantage points available. Surrounded by wild flowers, this is a peaceful place that offers some of the most beautiful scenery on the East Side. Finishing the hike at the trailmarker that reads “End of Trail,” you’ll notice the area is accompanied by warning signs. This spot has a great view looking down at the Wailua River and ocean views across Kapaÿa, but some people decide they want to keep going and ignore the warning signs. They venture up the tight trail to the top lookout spot beyond the Giant’s “chin,” and continue on to the “forehead” and summit of roughly 1,242-feet. This is absolutely not recommended, as it’s extremely dangerous given the possible fall from the steep, narrow trail resulting in severe injury or death. Safety is key when hiking any trail on the island and warning signs are posted with good reason, so it’s best to always pay attention to your surroundings and heed any warnings along the way and stay on the trail. Arriving back at the picnic area, you’ll be rewarded with fantastic views of Wailua Valley and the surrounding mountains to the west, and as you look to the east, ocean views of the Kapaÿa coast. While you’re there, look for a bench near the picnic tables that reads “Respect Kauaÿi,” as it gives you a great photo opportunity with an ocean view. It’s important to respect the trails by staying on the main paths and not taking shortcuts. This will help ensure you have a wonderful hike without getting lost or hurt, and you’ll also avoid contributing to trail erosion. Choose a good day for hiking when it’s not raining, and not too hot. Hiking these trails in slippery mud takes away from all this hike has to offer and is perilous—plus on a rainy day, clouds can cover up the spectacular views. On warmer days, it’s a good idea to take the West Trail or Kuamoÿo Trail, as these are both trails that benefit from the shade of trees. A morning hike is best if you take the East Trail as it helps to avoid the heat of day. Depending on when you do the hike, it’s always a good idea to wear sunscreen, bring sun protection, plenty of water, and insect repellant. Many people hike the mountain at dawn to catch the sunrise, and others like to stay past dusk to enjoy the sunset. In both cases, it’s best to bring a flashlight with you and take the trail slowly, as it’s easy to take a misstep on the uneven, root-filled, and bumpy areas where parts of the trail have washed away. Hiking during daytime hours is your best bet to keep you and your family safe. While going down is always easier than climbing up a trail, myhawaiitraveler.com
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you need to watch your step, as it’s easy to slide on slick leaves or unstable rocky areas. Wearing shoes that have a good grip is highly recommended, as you’ll need the traction and stability. Sure-footedness on this trail makes all the difference, so you can definitely leave your slippers (flip-flops) back at the hotel! This is not one of the national parks trails with highly maintained and groomed trails. You will come across tree limbs that you’ll need to step over or even go under, in some cases. Take it slow if you need to, as you’ll probably want to stop and take in the views along the trail, as that is what makes the hike so amazing. With three options of trails leading up to Sleeping Giant, you may want to mix it up and try different variations of the trail if you have two cars and a group of people. Our family parked one car at the East Trail parking lot and jumped in our other car and parked it on the other side of the mountain to start at the West Trail. We enjoyed the shade under the trees and breeze on our way up the shorter, steep trail, then took the East Trail down to take in the spectacular ocean and coastal views. This allows one to take in more of the mountain on a 1-day hike. If you set the scenic picnic area at the top of the mountain as your destination spot, then you can enjoy a tasty lunch break before you start your descent back down the mountain. It’s a fun way for the whole family to enjoy the hike. Adding to the unique character and mystique of the mountain is the native Hawaiian legends that inspired its name. One account tells of a giant, who after great labor, overate at a lüÿau (Hawaiian feast) the village had prepared for him. Full and satiated from his great feast, the giant laid down and can still be found sleeping to this day. It’s a fun story to share with the keiki (children) before the hike, especially if you decide to eat lunch at the top of the mountain—just make sure not to eat too big of a lunch and fall asleep like the giant did! For a longer version of this local fable, the children’s book, The Sleeping Giant: A Tale from Kauaÿi by Edna Cabcabin Moran offers a wonderful rendition of the story sure to inspire little ones long after they’ve completed the hike. Offering its rugged profile and sweeping, tranquil vistas to those who are ready to hike its surface, the Sleeping Giant will awaken in you a sense of adventure and fun that can only be found when you venture out and explore all that Kauaÿi has to offer! 72
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DESTINATIONS
THE SUNNY SOUTH SUNNY PO‘IPŪ TO WAIMEA CANYON
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tunnel of tall eucalyptus trees marks the gateway to Kaua‘i’s sunny South Shore. Perfect weather and golden beaches make the south side of Kaua‘i a favorite hang out for both visitors and locals. Old Köloa Town is home to Hawai‘i’s first active sugar mill, the birthplace of the Hawaiian sugar industry, which was the state’s strongest economy for more than a century. Although the mill is inoperational now, the charming town thrives with activity from the many restaurants, boutiques and shops that line the wooden sidewalks. One of the best ways to really experience all the South Shore has to offer is by ATV, exploring its beautiful vistas, plantations and waterfalls. Fun! Just a couple of miles south of Köloa lies sunny Po‘ipü, a major resort destination with beachfront condos and restaurants developed around some of the best beaches on the Island. Once there, you will see why Po‘ipü Beach has been voted America’s Best Beach by the Travel Channel. It’s no wonder, as Po‘ipü provides beachgoers a place to snorkel, swim, wade, boogie-board, kayak, surf and sunbathe. Swimming at all levels can be enjoyed, from the protected natural saltwater pools to the more exciting wave action for the experienced. With three bow-shaped bays, each with their own environment, Po‘ipü thrives with a multitude of marine life. Looking to satisfy the explorer in you? Then discover the secluded and diverse landscape of Mähä‘ulepü. With rugged limestone cliffs, ancient burial grounds and rocky sea caves, your journey will be unforgettable. If trekking by foot, start at Shipwreck Beach, located just east of the Hyatt. (Hint: If you see locals jumping from a 50-ft sand dune at Makawehi Point, you’re headed in the right direction.) Once in the ironwoods, you should be able to pick up the trail. If you have a 4WD and a watch, you can drive in. But 74
if you do drive, pay attention to the time, as the park closes at 6pm, and you don’t want to get locked in. At Prince Kühïo Park, you can pay your respects to Hawai‘i’s first delegate to the U.S. congress, Prince Jonah Kühïo Kalaniana‘ole. He was known for spearheading the Hawaiian Homes Commission Act. This sets aside 200,000 acres of leasehold land for indigenous Hawaiians. A state holiday is observed in his honor, while the park honors his birthplace. To the west of the park is Spouting Horn, a cascade of water that shoots up like Old Faithful from an opening of an ancient lava tube with every incoming wave when the tide is high. A visit to the Garden Island wouldn’t be complete without visiting a garden or two. The National Tropical Botanical Garden and the Allerton Garden are two stunning examples of native landscape and design. The NTBG provides a haven for tropical endangered plant species to thrive and focuses on the cultivation of traditional medicinal plants. The Allerton Garden sits on the site of Hawai‘i’s Queen Emma’s summer cottage. This 80-acre retreat hosts the Island’s living treasures in an enchanting garden and also has a private beach that turtles use to lay eggs. It’s a good idea to make advanced reservations for the Allerton Garden since tours are limited. Just a little inland from the opulent coast, is the modest town of Kaläheo. Take a drive through the neighborhood and experience true island living. Stop and picnic in paradise in Kukui O Lono Park. Because the park is set up on top of a hill, you will enjoy spectacular panoramic vistas in every direction, including the south coast and Läwa‘i Valley. Stroll through the lovely serene Japanese-style garden or play the public golf course. By blending luxury and tradition, the South Shore of Kaua‘i is sure to provide something for everyone. KAUA‘I TRAVELER
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Stevenson's Sushi & Spirits
St. Regis Bar
FLAVORS OF KAUA‘I SOUTH SHORE DONDERO’S Dondero’s will satisfy your soul as well as your appetite. The elegant ambiance and stellar service makes this a dining favorite for those with discriminating taste. The menu is designed as an Italian tasting menu, offering complimentary flavors and contrasting textures with a large selection of appetizers, homemade pastas, fresh fish, chicken, lamb and beef specialties. This light, modern Italian cuisine is carefully paired with wines from all over the world. Located in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort. Call (808) 240-6456. EATING HOUSE 1849 BY ROY YAMAGUCHI The Eating House 1849 pays homage to Hawai‘i’s vibrant culinary heritage, a nod to restaurateurs like Peter Fernandez who, the story goes, opened one of the first restaurants in Hawai‘i. Called the Eating House, back in the mid-1800s, using what was available from local farmers, ranchers, foragers and shermen. It’s here that award-winning Chef Roy Yamaguchi blends these two worlds: the easy ambiance and simple flavors of a plantation town with the dynamic modernity of haute cuisine. Located at the Shops at Kukui‘ula. Call (808) 742-5000 for reservations. LIVING FOODS GOURMET MARKET Explore Living Foods Gourmet Market, Cafe and Juice Bar and discover the freshest seasonal specials and local favorites, as well as handpicked imports from around the world. The market is open from 7am to 9pm and features a diverse selection of products including beer, wine and spirits, dairy, butcher, local catch and more. 76
Enjoy tasty recipes for breakfast, lunch and dinner in the cafe from 7am to 8pm or refresh with juices, smoothies, frosties and more at the Juice Bar from 7:30am to 4:30pm. Located at The Shops at Kukui’ula. Call (808) 742-2323. MERRIMAN'S FISH HOUSE In a casual yet elegant setting of an old Hawai‘i plantation, Chef-Owner Peter Merriman serves his unique style of Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine. A pioneer in the "Farm to Table" concept, Peter serves only the freshest products, at least 90 percent of which are locally grown or caught, using only sustainable methods. His international menu items are prepared in a manner that highlights the natural flavors of these fresh and local foods. Featuring both mauka (mountain) and makai (ocean) views as well as sunset views over the Kukui'ula resort, with a premium bar upstairs, a downstairs cafe for casual dining, and an over 1,000 bottle wine cellar. Our facilities can host private parties and meetings. Our aloha-friendly staff, with a food and beverage knowledge second to none, will ensure that you have an extraordinary dining experience. Located in The Shops at Kukui‘ula. For reservations, call (808) 742-8385. MERRIMAN'S GOURMET PIZZA & BURGERS Featuring a wide selection of artisan burgers and specialty salads, all made with fresh locally-grown ingredients. The restaurant's house-made culinary cocktails and sweet treats are not to be missed! Gluten free and vegan options are also available in this fun, family friendly atmosphere. Located in The Shops at Kukui‘ula.
STEVENSON'S SUSHI & SPIRITS The warm woods and intimate seating areas of this classic lounge create a welcoming atmosphere. Take a seat at the 27-foot, hand crafted koa wood bar or sink into a cozy chair or sofa in the booked lined room. Chef Jay creates delectable sushi creations nightly in this unique Kaua‘i bar boasting an extensive selection of Whiskies, Cognac and Port in addition to creative martinis and delectable tropical drinks. Kick back and enjoy live entertainment nightly ranging from Contemporary Hawaiian to Jazz to Indie Pop. Enjoy a game of pool, backgammon or chess. Scrumptious sushi rolls are sure to please and live entertainment nightly makes for the perfect nightcap. Located in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort. Call (808) 240-6456. THE SHOPS AT KUKUI‘ULA The Shops at Kukui‘ula has become known as the premier dining destination on Kaua‘i for its selection of casual and fine dining experiences in a beautiful plantation style setting. Merriman’s Fish House and Eating House 1849 feature renowned Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine Chefs Peter Merriman and Roy Yamaguchi while Tortilla Republic and Dolphin Sushi bring contemporary flair to Mexican and seafood cuisine. Casual options include Bubba Burgers, Living Foods Market & Café, Merriman’s Gourmet Pizza & Burgers, and TR Taqueria & Margarita Bar as well as local favorites Uncle’s Shave Ice and Lappert’s Hawai‘i. Check out the weekly Kaua‘i Culinary Market, Wednesdays, 3:30 to 6pm, with a cooking demo at 5pm. Visit theshopsatkukuiula.com. KAUA‘I TRAVELER
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TIDEPOOLS HAWAIIAN-STYLE Ahh, the romance of a tiki-torch lit dinner in thatched roof bungalows floating above a koi-filled lagoon. Here you’ll find stellar service and contemporary Hawaiian cuisine featuring the freshest of fish and succulent steaks crafted with a distinct island flair. Free valet parking for diners. For reservations call 808 240 6456 or book online at opentable.com. grand h yatt k aua‘ i r e sort & s pa | 157 1 P O IPU ROAD | KO LOA , H I 96756
TASTE TIDEPOOLS For the ultimate in ambiance, Tidepools is the place. With a backdrop of waterfalls, these thatched roof hale seemingly float above koi filled lagoons providing a distinctive open-air setting in which to savor contemporary Hawaiian style cuisine. Diners rave about the fresh island fish and steak options including macadamia nut crusted mahimahi, grilled opah, organic steak, or Hawaiian salt and garlic rubbed prime rib. Salads feature fresh island-greens and the desserts are luscious. Don’t miss this delightful experience. Located in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort. Call (808) 240-6456. LĪHU‘E KUKUI’S Features a Pacific Rim gourmet buffet in an outdoor setting, plus American and local specialties. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Located poolside at the Marriott Kaua‘i Beach Resort. Located at 3610 Rice Street. Call (808) 245-5050. WAILUA - EAST SIDE KOREAN BBQ RESTAURANT Authentic Korean food with great Korean BBQ like galbi, chicken and pork served with soup, kimchee, vegetables and rice. Delicious Korean plates like shrimp tempura, Korean chicken, Mahi or meat jun (marinated
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mahi or ribeye dipped in egg and fried), bi bim bap (rice bowl with veggies and your choice of meat) and favorites like katsu, fried rice, noodles and dumplings all reasonably priced. Open Mon.-Sun. 11am-9pm. Kinipopo Shopping Village in Wailua. 4-356 Kuhio Hwy Building #E. (808) 823-6744. NAUPAKA TERRACE Inspired by the natural beauty of the Garden Island, Kauai Beach Resort creates unforgettable dining experiences that delight your senses. Indulge in delicious island specialties, fresh seafood, refreshing tropical drinks and live music as you gaze at the coastline and sparkling ocean. Dine on island cuisine at Naupaka Terrace, one of the top restaurants on Kaua‘i, enjoy a poolside snack at Driftwood Bar & Grille, and enjoy refreshing drinks and island music nightly at Shutters Lounge. Located at the Kauai Beach Resort. Call (808) 245-1955. NORTH SHORE MAKANA TERRACE Overlooking magical Hanalei Bay and Makana Mountain is the main dining room at The St. Regis Princeville Resort, Makana Terrace, the perfect venue for sophisticated casual all day dining. The menus showcase the freshest Hawaiian grown produce
flawlessly represented in the dishes prepared by the Executive Chef and his culinary team. On Wednesdays, The Mailani dinner experience captures the essence of Halele’a, through chant, hula and storytelling. Journey with us overlooking Hanalei Bay as we reveal the mystery of this special place. Mailani, is an elegant Hawaiian dining experience that honors the culture and traditions of Kaua’i. Dinner Thursday-Monday, Wednesdays for Mailani, Dinner Show. Located at The St. Regis Princeville Resort. Call (808) 826-2746 for reservations. KAUAI GRILL A comfortable yet elegant hideaway—signature Jean-Georges sophistication realized far from home. Sweeping views of Hanalei bay and Bali Hai surround Kauai Grill, the latest in creative dining experiences from Michelin awarded Jean-George Vongerichten. Kauai Grill combines a curated selection of Jean-Georges’ greatest appetizers, side dishes and accompaniments from his portfolio of domestic and international restaurants around the world with the highest quality of meats and freshest local fish available. Simply grilled preparations accompanied by bold condiments anchor the Kauai Grill experience at The St. Regis Princeville. Open Tuesday-Saturday 6pm-10pm. For reservations call (808) 826-9644.
KAUA‘I TRAVELER
BEYOND DESSERT Desserts are taken to new heights with the pairings executed by Executive Pastry Chef Heather Campbell and Bar Manager Rodrigo Maza-Gama who aim to elevate dining experiences to euphoric levels. Chef Campbell suggests the Praline Crème Brûlée while dining at the Makana Terrace paired with Maza-Gama’s selection, Rémy Martin Cognac Louis XIII. The silky crème brûlée is served alongside pears prepared two ways—glazed in a seductive layer of honey and also as a refreshing pear sorbet. The cinnamon and ginger from the cognac will complement the caramelized pears while the cognac’s light hints of Cuban cigar will play off the nuttiness of the praline. For an exotic twist on a beloved dessert, opt for the Lemongrass Panna Cotta from the Kauai Grill paired with Dow’s 20 Year Tawny Port. The unique, citrus-like aromas from the lemongrass will intermingle with the nutty bouquet of the port creating an experience of pure bliss. Chef Campbell serves the panna cotta along with her Balsamic Fig Compote and Wild Strawberry Sorbet, creating a symphony of flavors for guests to enjoy. If you find yourself in a playful mood, head over to the St. Regis Bar where you can experience the Truffle Variation paired with fine liquors and liqueurs. Some of Maza-Gama’s spirited pairings include Köloa Aged Rum with Wasabi White Chocolate Truffle and the aromatic Frangelico hazelnut liqueur with Aloha Shoyu Chocolate Truffle. If you want to experience the extraordinary, all you have to do is step inside the regal St. Regis Princeville Resort and relish in all its incredible glory from the view to the menu offerings. Makana Terrace, Kauai Grill, and St. Regis Bar are at The St. Regis Princeville Resort located at 5520 Ka Haku Road. Makana Terrace serves breakfast and offers a breakfast buffet from 6:30am to 11am, Monday thru Friday and 6:30am to 12:30pm on Saturday and Sunday. Dinner is served nightly at the Makana Terrace from 5:30pm to 9:30pm, except Tuesday and Wednesday. Kauai Grill is open from 5pm to 9pm from Tuesday to Saturday. And, the St. Regis Bar serves beverages daily from 3:30pm to 11pm; featured dinner entrées are offered from 5:30pm to 9:30pm from Sunday to Wednesday; Sushi & Püpü are available nightly from 5:30pm to 9:30pm, and their late night offerings are available from 5:30pm to 11pm. For more information, visit stregisprinceville.com or call (808) 826-9644. 80
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PHOTO COURTESY: DANIEL LANE
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WHAT WE LOVE NOW
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STEVENSON’S SUSHI & SPIRITS Poipu’s luxury nightspot offers sweeping views, scrumptious sushi, inventive cocktails, tropical drinks, aged whiskies, cognacs and ports. Live music nightly featuring jazz, indie pop and more. Sushi rolled nightly 5:30-9:30pm. Live entertainment 8:00-11:00pm. Free valet parking for diners. For reservations call 808 240 6456 or book online at opentable.com. myhawaiitraveler.com grand h yatt k aua‘ i r e sort & s pa | 157 1 P O IPU ROA D | KO LOA , H I 96756
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A GREAT KAUAIAN NIGHT Shutter’s Lounge, loved by locals and tourists alike as a premier place on the island to hear live, local music has recently unveiled their latest menu to make an evening spent there even better. In their sophisticated, yet casual atmosphere, you can enjoy their Crispy Calamari Fritti, which is served alongside a flavorful, spicy arrabbiata sauce or enjoy their famed Furikake Fries, which are sprinkled with the Japanese seaweed seasoning, adding savoriness to the fries that you’ll find yourself craving for days to follow. An absolute must-try at Shutter’s is their Li Hing Mui Spare Ribs. Li hing mui (Chinese dried plums) is known to locals as a nostalgic snack many enjoyed in childhood. The flavor of li hing mui is a combination of sweet, sour, salty, and tangy which adds an interesting depth to the spare ribs. Another great choice is the charbroiled Hawaiian Housemade Flatbread Pizza, which is deliciously made with local ingredients and chef’s fresh tomato sauce. Along with a full wine list and specially made house cocktails, Shutter’s offers a great selection of tropical drinks to complement a night in the islands like the Lumahai Lava Flow, which begins with Malibu Rum blended with iced milk, banana and pineapple juice, poured over puréed strawberries and topped with a Cointreau float. The best part is their menu is affordable and delicious using high quality ingredients, which you can thoroughly enjoy in a delightful setting with great live music sure to be a fun night on Kauaÿi! Shutter’s Lounge is located in the Aqua Kauaÿi Beach Resort located at 4331 Kauaÿi Beach Drive in Lïhuÿe. Shutter’s is open from 5pm to 11pm, Sunday thru Thursday, and from 5pm to midnight on Fridays and Saturdays. Live music is available nightly from 7pm to 10pm. For more information, visit kauaibeachresorthawaii.com/hotel-dining/ shutters-lounge/ or call (808) 245-1955. 82
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PHOTO COURTESY: DANIEL LANE
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WHAT WE LOVE NOW
YOUR TA S T E B U D S DESERVE A V A C AT I O N .
Enjoy local and responsibly sourced ingredients at all six restaurants,
as well as farm to table menus, legendary steak and seafood dishes, myhawaiitraveler.com light and healthy options, and of course, delectable desserts.
Kauai Marriott Resort’s dining selections range from casual oceanside cocktails and snacks to true ďŹ ne dining.
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Only 6-miles from Lïhu’e Airport, Courtyard Kauaÿi is the perfect “baseline camp” location, just a short drive to the North Shore, Näpali Coast and the beautiful beaches of Poÿipü. Join them on Thursday and Sunday evening for the authentic Luau Makaÿiwa, located outdoors overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Start by visiting local vendors showcasing the cultural arts of Polynesian. At sunset, enjoy the ceremonial lighting of the torches. Feast on island favorites like kälua pork and lomilomi salmon. Award-winning recording artist Leilani Rivera and her troupe of dancers take you through the Polynesian islands with hula, the rhythm of Tonga, the fierce Maori, Tahitian dances, and the thrill of the Samoan fire dance for an unforgettable evening of cultural entertainment and good food. Friday nights are truly special at Courtyard Kauaÿi with their offering of the Flying Lobster 84
Buffet at the Voyager Lounge, which features a variety of delectable choices such as slicedto-order prime rib, Alaskan king crab legs, and 6-ounce lobster tails in a lovely setting. Great nightly entertainment, tasty püpü (appetizers), specialty cocktails, and happy hour specials are available in the Makai Lounge. Day or night, Courtyard Kauaÿi at Coconut Beach is the place to be if you are looking to drink and dine in a relaxed, tropical setting. Courtyard Kauaÿi is located at 650 Aleka Loop in Kapaÿa. The Luau Makaÿiwa is available on Sunday and Thursday evenings. Check-in for the lüÿau is at 5:15pm and ends around 8:30pm. The Flying Lobster buffet is available Friday nights from 5:30pm to 9pm. For more information on the lüÿau, call (800) 763-0120. For more information about Courtyard Kauaÿi, call (808) 822-3455. KAUA‘I TRAVELER
PHOTO COURTESY: DANIEL LANE
THE PLACE TO BE
WHAT WE LOVE NOW AS GOOD AS IT GETS
This iconic Kauaÿi restaurant, famous for its welcoming Hawaiian hospitality and gorgeous view, was recently acquired by local celebrity chef and one of the founders of Hawaiÿi Regional Cuisine, Peter Merriman. Merriman and his restauranteur business partner, William Terry, have goals to build upon the legacy of this Kauaÿi institution while enriching dining experiences of their customers with their constant dedication to creating delicious dishes that equal the beauty of the island. Beautiful breathtaking views complement the stunning menu that Merriman and Executive Chef Marshall Blanchard have created to align with Merriman’s own “locavore” philosophy that shines through in each dish. A perfect way to begin your meal is with The Beach House Ceviche, which combines local citrus and lilikoÿi (passion fruit) juice with freshly caught fish, scallops, and tiger prawns. To this, freshly chopped avocado, tomatoes, cucumbers, and cilantro are added, and the dish is served with myhawaiitraveler.com
crunchy taro chips. A popular entrée from the makai (sea) is the Wasabi-Crusted Fresh Island Fish, which is a fillet of freshly caught local fish served in a lilikoÿi lemongrass beurre blanc with local bok choy, Läwa’i mushrooms, and cilantro sesame rice. And if you are looking for something from the mauka (mountains), the Fire-Grilled Center-Cut Pork Loin might be exactly what you are looking for to satisfy your hunger. The pork loin is seared to perfection, cooked till done, and served alongside Yukon gold pork belly hash, Läwa’i mushroom and bok choy stir-fry, and drizzled with a bacon Madeira reduction. The Beach House is where you want to go when you want food as good as the view. The Beach House Restaurant serves lunch daily from 11am to 3pm; Light Meals from 3pm to 5pm; and Dinner from 5pm to 10pm. The bar and lounge also serves drinks and püpü (appetizers) daily from 11am to 10pm. For reservations, call (808) 742-1424. 85
Delectable
KAUA‘I SHRIMP SWEET FROM HEAD TO TAIL WORDS MARY TROY JOHNSTON
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Grilled, fried, sautéed, boiled, and even raw, shrimp is a versatile and delicious seafood with wide global appeal. Tasty in curries, soups, salads, boils, rolls, and a star on the grill, shrimp works well with most flavors and cooking techniques. You don’t have to be a top chef to make a scrumptious shrimp dish, as long as you start with quality ingredients and don’t overcook it. Whether going gourmet or keeping it low-key and rustic, chefs, home cooks, and shrimp lovers everywhere are faced with one question: Heads on or heads off? Manager Andy Althouse of Kauaÿi Shrimp makes a convincing case for buying shrimp with the heads-on. Althouse draws on his knowledge as a former chef. He says the shrimp head is key to determining freshness: “If it is clear and the tail is clear, the shrimp has been properly handled. Besides, if you remove the head, you are throwing away the best flavor.” Shrimp devotees in Louisiana appreciate the buttery tasting shrimp fat that tempts them to “suck the head.” They barbecue and grill shrimp from head to tail so that the flavor travels throughout the shell. As Althouse confirms, heads and shells are essential to shrimp stock, as they provide the foundation and rich pleasures for famous Cajun and Creole masterpieces like shrimp bisque and gumbo. These high-quality crustaceans (that keep their heads) come from the West Side in Kekaha, the location of the facilities for Sunrise Capital, the enterprise that farms Kauaÿi Shrimp. These shellfish are definitely a well-nurtured and carefully cultivated lot. The expertise of an internationally trained staff is applied to every stage of the production process. Technical director and co-owner Dr. George Chamberlain wrote the first chapter entitled, “History of Shrimp Farming,” in The Shrimp Book (edited by Dr. Victoria Alday-Sanz). He describes the operation to the author, “We control the entire animal husbandry process from egg to plate.” From the shrimp that mate to the larvae, and ultimately to the full-grown specimen, the entire lifecycle unfolds on the Garden Isle. This “whole life” approach is rare in the industry and enables the producers to state with certainty that their shrimp are not genetically modified. Even the U.S. farms with the best reputations for shrimp farming are usually dependent on suppliers for shrimp postlarvae to start their production. Sunrise Capital is the third largest producer of myhawaiitraveler.com
shrimp broodstock in the world, selling to farms in Southeast Asia, China and India, and helping to raise global standards of shrimp aquaculture. A pristine pond is the ideal situation for growing shrimp. The company has 48 such ponds to grow-out shrimp here on Kauaÿi. These are specially constructed with food safe materials. The farm utilizes state of the art technologies to protect the quality of the water and food supply. The water source is what sets this shrimp farm apart from others across the globe. What other location can boast a steady supply of pure salt water drawn from deep-water wells provided by the remote geography of Kauaÿi? Biologist and pond manager Fritz Jaenike describes how the construction of the ponds is above the level of surface water to prevent any spill over and make sure the only source of water is from the aquifer based in volcanic rock. The aquaculturists at Kauaÿi Shrimp guarantee, “No chemicals, fertilizers or antibiotics are ever used.” They do not need to tamper with a natural environment that is so favorable to growing healthy shrimp. Hawaiÿi provides the culture of the ÿäina (land), a traditional belief that impresses a deep commitment to sustainability and sacred regard for our environment. Certainly, this culture has rubbed off in pressing Kauaÿi Shrimp to reach for even better ways of operating. In a process called co-culturing, the shrimp share their habitat with clams. The clams eat the algae, which is a byproduct of shrimp farming, fattening themselves while munching on organic matter, helping to keep pond conditions stable. The process has been so successful that the company is now able to offer another sustainable food product—Kauaÿi Clams. Their efforts to produce the best-farmed shrimp have been recognized with local chefs embracing their product, and increased orders from the mainland. Four times a week, they ship approximately several thousand pounds of shrimp to foodie cities like Denver, San Francisco, and Los Angeles, and ship as far as Minneapolis. Restaurants across the Garden Island prize the shrimp for their generous size. The farm provides a large shrimp, which amounts to eight to twelve shrimp a pound, or in shrimp speak, 8/12 count. Kauai Grill, Red Salt, Hukilau Lanai, Oasis on the Beach, Garden Island Grille, Sushi Bushido and Merriman’s Fish House are among the island restaurants that regularly serve the product. Home cooks are 87
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able to find Kauaÿi Shrimp at Costco as well as many grocery chains like Foodland and Big Save throughout the Hawaiian Islands. On the West Side, customers can also buy from the pickup window at the farm’s processing plant located at 3630 Hanapëpë Road or at Ishihara Market. A small tasting tour of Kauaÿi Shrimp on the island amounts to a delicious adventure. At Sushi Bushido, the traditional Japanese dish amaebi (sweet shrimp), under the Nigiri (fingers of sushi rice) section of the menu, features Kauaÿi Shrimp. Sushi Chef Chris Sadaoka chooses them for their “size, quality and freshness.” The heads are deep-fried to a fiery red color and served with raw tails. The chef compares munching on the heads to eating a shrimp chip. To me, it tastes like essence of shrimp. Presentation is also a plus that Chef Sean Smull at Oasis appreciates in the head-on shrimp. He has developed his own special preparation of shrimp étouffée, which he tries to serve nightly. The dish is a traditional Louisiana shrimp preparation that Chef Sean personalizes with his own blackening spices, garlic chives from Aunty Lisa at the farmers market, and his not-so-secret ingredient any longer, celery salt. He likes the picture he paints using the whole shrimp, “the spines at the top that form a beautiful culinary standpoint, not to mention the reddening of the sauce.” And, he admits he likes to “suck the heads.” In Köloa, Dave and Sheri Trentlage at Garden Island Grille have met with rave reviews serving an unusual preparation of coconut shrimp, lightly fried in a tempura batter and truly set off with a coconut and red wine reduction sauce seasoned with an array of exotic herbs (imagine kaffir lime, ginger, basil, Thai cilantro) from Jade Farm. Trying the incredible, diverse menu offerings of Kauaÿi Shrimp from the many talented chefs here is a tasty culinary journey for sure. However, if you enjoy cooking (or grilling) and want to make your own signature shrimp dish, head over to the many markets on the island and get shrimping. For a full list of where you can get Kauaÿi Shrimp and for more information including yummy recipes like Chef Andy’s Kauaÿi Shrimp with Oyster Butter Sauce or Spicy-Sweet Kauaÿi Shrimp, visit KauaiShrimp.com. 88
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Eating House 1849
THE SHOPS AT KUKUI‘ULA Nothing on Kaua‘i quite compares to the rich, eclectic mix of tasty cuisine offered at The Shops at Kukui‘ula. Whether you’re looking for the “fresh catch of the day” or a delightful craft cocktail, a fine dining experience or casual atmosphere, this South Shore mall truly has it all. Located in Po‘ipü where the sun is almost always shining, it’s the quintessential location for top-notch dining options. Merriman’s Fish House, located on the second floor, is a prime example. Though one of the finer options, the fresh fare here is worth every penny. Each night, the chef prepares specials based upon what local fishermen catch that day and the menu boasts Hawaiÿi Regional Cuisine using as many local ingredients as possible, giving dishes the kind of clean flavors your palate will thank you for. The Macadamia Nut Crusted Mahi Mahi is one such dish, cooked to melt-in-your-mouth perfection, and enhanced with sake mushroom reduction, Moloa‘a green beans, and roasted eggplant. Even the salads offer an explosion of savory tastes like the Kailani Farms Kale & Butter Lettuce with local hearts of palm, oranges, and vinaigrette, as well as sensational roasted beets, red quinoa, and sweet onion. Make sure to leave room for dessert, especially the White Chocolate Filled Malasadas, which you dip into a luxurious caramel sauce. Pair all of these delectable items with a great bottle of wine or exquisite craft cocktail like their signature Mai Tai topped with heavenly honey-lilikoÿi (passion fruit) foam. If you get here early enough (between 5:30 and 6:30pm) and don’t mind sitting at the bar, you can sip select drinks like the Mai Tai and indulge on delicious püpü (appetizers) such as Fresh Island Ahi Poke and Truffle Parmesan Fries for a discounted happy hour price. Otherwise, if 90
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you’ve got the time, make reservations that coincide with the sunset as a spectacular view awaits you in the open-air dining room plus live music Monday thru Thursday from 6pm to 8pm. This restaurant also has a more casual, affordable version downstairs: Merriman’s Gourmet Pizza & Burgers. This is the perfect relaxing spot for families with kids to enjoy the perks of the eatery’s delicious food. The menu has a range of pizzas, such as Kalua Pig & Grilled Pineapple, fit to please anyone’s dietary needs, including a gluten-free crust option, as well as a variety of artisan sandwiches like the Teriyaki Burger made with grassfed, local beef and also has a tasty keiki (children’s) menu. Merriman’s Gourmet Pizza & Burgers offers daily happy hour specials from 3:30pm to 5:30pm. For a more Asian-Pacific flare, visit esteemed restauranteur, Roy Yamaguchi’s Eating House 1849. Inspired by Hawai‘i’s plantation heritage, the dishes here echo the days when immigrant farmers, ranchers, and fishermen settled across the Islands from places like Portugal and the Philippines. They melded food that was available to them which resulted in unique dishes found nowhere else in the world. Chef Yamaguchi adheres to the same methods while mixing in a zesty modern punch. Try the 1849 Spicy Ramen Bowl with roast pork, shrimp dumpling, choy sum, and sprouts, or the Plantation Paella with tiger shrimp, clams, chicken and a kick of Portuguese sausage to find out exactly what this means. You’ll also discover a few familiar entrées that Roy’s restaurants are famous for, including Slow Braised Honey Mustard Grilled Beef Short Ribs spiced with horseradish potato purée, accompanied with local kale and demi-glace. He’s also included his celebrated chocolate soufflé on KAUA‘I TRAVELER
the menu, which is the perfect way to decadently end your meal. There is also a well-stocked bar with plenty of expertly made cocktails and a seriously tempting appetizer menu that you may want to order several of to eat as small plates for dinner. Make reservations as early as possible so you can enjoy the open-air seating in a stylish, rustic atmosphere where water is served in Mason jars and lightbulbs are held together by pulleys. You’ll even get to peek at the staff as they prepare each meal in the open-concept kitchen, allowing you to witness the care and detail it takes to make this restaurant’s food so ‘ono (delicious) and a favorite for locals. Living Foods Gourmet Market & Café is an excellent option if you’re looking for more grab-and-go meals that are made with high quality ingredients and are very delicious. The café is open from 7am to 8pm every day and offers an assortment of freshly made meals like Pineapple Brioche French Toast with thick-cut smoked bacon and maple butter for breakfast, and Greek Pizza with herbed olive oil, red onions, black olives, bell peppers, mozzarella and feta cheese, cooked in a wood-fire oven and an array of tasty sandwiches. This is the best place to visit if you’re trying to stay healthy on your tropical vacation or if you want to pick up convenient food for your outdoor excursions. Living Foods has a fantastic juice bar with fresh fruits, depending on what’s in season, as well as smoothies and acai bowls chock-full of good-for-you ingredients. This is also the place to go for a heavenly cup of coffee to start your day, or keep you awake when the mid-afternoon haze hits. This gourmet grocery store also has a salad bar where you can pick and choose from an assortment of healthy sides like quinoa and kale. Or if you’re really short on time, several premade meals are available as well as a great selection of wines, beers and spirits. If you want to indulge in some local decadence, head right over to Uncle’s Shave Ice to satisfy your sweet tooth. This is one of the most popular places in the mall and you might have to wait in line. But don’t worry, it moves quickly and the wait is well worth it. What sets this establishment apart besides its exclusive flavors like birthday cake, lychee, red velvet cake, and tamarind, is that they now also offer treats made with shave “snow”—a combo of milk, water, flavoring, and sugar frozen together. This sweet eatery also has an amazing Hawaiian Honey Toast special that’s piled sky high with sweet bread, macadamia nut ice cream, honey, and caramel sauce—everything you want in a dessert. Many other dining choices abound at The Shops at Kukuiÿula including Mexican food at Tortilla Republic, which also has a casual downstairs dining room with oodles of happy hour specials as well as a more elegant atmosphere upstairs. This is the place to go if you have a hankering for well-made margaritas ranging in an assortment of flavors and freshly made guacamole. Across the way from here is The Dolphin, which is a hot spot for island fish and sushi. Families also love Bubba Burgers or Savage Shrimp for a quick, easy meal everyone can enjoy that can be perfectly concluded with a scoop of handmade Kona coffee or macadamia nut ice cream from the nearby Lappert’s Hawaii. The Shops at Kukui‘ula really is the place to be that caters to everyone’s cravings. Even if you’re staying on the North Shore, make sure to travel to the other side of the island, stop at Po‘ipü Beach and end your day at one of these incredibly appetizing eateries.
Merriman's Fish House Tortilla Republic
Living Foods Gourmet Market & Cafe
The Shops at Kukui‘ula are located at 2829 Ala Kalanikaumaka in sunny Po‘ipü. For more information, visit TheShopsAtKukuiula.com or call (808) 742-9545. myhawaiitraveler.com
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CULINARY Q&A CHEF ERIC BARTOLOME
Eric Bartolome knew he wanted to make people’s palates sing
for a living when he was only seven years old. Inspiration came from watching his grandmother craft mouthwatering meals like her famed Filipino pork and peas. He’s come a long way since finding his way around the family kitchen. Now he carries on his grandmother’s legacy creating tantalizing meals as Chef de Cuisine of Tidepools restaurant at the world-renowned Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort & Spa in Po‘ipü. Before gracing the island with his culinary talents, Bartolome grew up on Maui and held various positions including part of the opening team at the luxurious Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort. He relocated to Kaua‘i, not only because he wanted to relish in its beauty year-round, but also because he wanted to share and expand upon his knowledge of high-end cuisine in one of the most gorgeous settings on Earth.
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How would you describe the menu at Tidepools? Contemporary Hawaiian cuisine crafted with a unique fusion of flavors representing the melting pot that is Hawai‘i. What are some dishes that set the restaurant apart from others? Though our ‘ahi (Hawaiian tuna) and opah (moonfish) are very popular, the Hawaiian Catch is our signature dish which offers a lobster tail and a scallop and our fresh catch in a soy-ginger glaze, served on a bed of Molokaÿi sweet potato drizzled with a lemongrass beurre blanc. The flavors are subtle, yet exceptional. And the AhiHamachi Poke Duo, which I recently added to the menu and has been a top seller.
How would you describe the guest experience at Tidepools? It is such a unique experience from beginning to end. First, the setting is incredibly romantic, dining in a thatched bungalow, floating above a lagoon. At one end, there is the waterfall that is visible and audible. The restaurant is modeled after a Polynesian village with a large common room (lounge) with five other various-sized rooms. The service is excellent. It’s a relaxed dining experience where you will enjoy fine food in a casual island atmosphere. Servers are very knowledgeable of each of the fish, how they differ in taste and texture, as well as the flavors of each of the dishes in and of themselves.
What are your plans for the menu? To continue to incorporate more local products and add some bold new flavors.
If someone wants to celebrate a special occasion at Tidepools, what would you suggest for a perfect evening? You can always request a waterside table. You can also order a cake to be made for a special celebration. Essentially, it will be a night to remember regardless.
How do you come up with new dishes? Ideas really come naturally when presented with a handful of ingredients; it’s then a matter of determining spices and herbs to maximize the flavors.
If you knew your last meal was going to be at Tidepools, what would you order? Prime rib with lobster, because our portion size is generous and I love surf and turf.
How do you incorporate the flavors of the Islands into your dishes? It’s all about thinking local and using local products, also thinking of what I used to eat as I was growing up and how I can refine it to please our guest’s palate while remaining true to Hawai‘i’s roots.
Do you cook at home? If so, what’s your favorite go-to meal? Yes, I love to cook for my kids. They love my chicken adobo taken from my grandma’s recipe with very little change.
Where does your inspiration for dishes come from? I get inspiration from eating all kinds of different cuisines and thinking what twists would make it even better.
Tidepools is located at 1571 Poÿipü Road in Köloa at the Grand Hyatt Kauaÿi Resort & Spa. For more information or reservations, call (808) 2406456 or visit http://kauai.grand.hyatt.com/en/hotel/dining/Tidepools.html. Free valet parking for diners.
What are some of your favorite local ingredients to cook with and why? I love using local ferns. As I was growing up, I used to eat them all the time; it’s one of my favorites. I also love mango because, in Hawai‘i, I think we have the best and sweetest mangoes. Where do you acquire most of your ingredients? Our fish are caught locally by island fishermen. Our lettuce is grown on-site at our hydroponic lettuce garden so our salads are as fresh as can be. Beyond that, I try to use local produce as much as possible for seasonings and sides. What is the most mouthwatering dessert on the menu? I think the Sweet Potato Haupia Cheesecake. In my book, you can’t go wrong with sweet potato and haupia (coconut pudding). Also, it’s made with an Anahola granola crust—classically Hawaiian with a fresh twist. myhawaiitraveler.com
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WARM YOUR SOUL FULL-BODIED FRENCH REDS FOR THE HOLIDAYS WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO
When the temperature begins to dip, the deep and robust wines of the Rhône Valley can warm you from the inside out, and add soul-satisfying, cozy feelings during chilly winter months. The Rhône Valley, located in Southern France, has a long history of viticulture with the first planted vines in the area dating to around 600 BC. The region primarily produces red wines, but some interesting whites also hail from the region creating a wide profile of wines to choose from. Typically, the reds of Rhône Valley are fullerbodied with intricate layers and a sturdy structure of acidity and tannin, which allow the wines to pair beautifully with a variety of heartier dishes that are enjoyed during the winter such as braised meats, stews, and herbed roasts. 94
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The Rhône Valley is divided into two parts—Northern Rhône and Southern Rhône. The Northern region has a more continental climate and harsh winters with a mistral wind that blows through this region, which stresses the vines to produce lower yields, creating a complex and intricate flavor profile in the grapes. Syrah is the dominant grape of this region although the white grapes, Marsanne and Roussanne, are allowed into the blend in certain parts of the region. The Syrah from Northern Rhône tends to be very flavorful—smoky with hints of coffee, blueberries, and cured meats. Chuck Furuya, Hawaiÿi’s first Master Sommelier, notes that Syrah from Northern Rhône is a longliving type of wine that needs years to harmonize, but can be paired brilliantly with braised lamb leg or braised shiitake mushrooms with thyme, if you are looking for a vegetarian dish. When selecting a Syrah from the North, many turn to wines from Hermitage, which is located just south of Lyon. The 2010 E. Guigal Hermitage ($45 per bottle; klwines.com) is a deliciously soulful wine with aromas of anise, juicy blackberries, and subtle whispers of worn leather. This high tannin wine is full-bodied with a rich, round mouthfeel that can be enjoyed as early as 2016, but can withstand cellaring for decades to come. Southern Rhône is the home to many celebrated red blends that tend to be Grenache-based allowing them to be enjoyed at an earlier age than Syrah-based wines of Northern Rhône. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is one of the most renowned regions of Southern Rhône specializing in a type of wine, which allows up to 19 varietals to be skillfully combined and blended. In 1308, Pope Clement V moved the papacy to Avignon and created vineyards in the area to produce wine for the clergy. Viticulture and vinification techniques improved and the area became known as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, “the new castle of the pope.” Furuya, an enthusiast of wines from Southern Rhône, points out that by searching for wines from villages near Châteauneuf-du-Pape, myhawaiitraveler.com
you can find hidden gems such as Domaine Le Sang des Cailloux from the village of Vacqueyras. Their 2013 Vacqueyras Rouge “Cuvée Floureto” ($34 per bottle; klwines.com) has notes of wild thyme, lavender, and rosemary against a deep red fruit palate making it superb with a thyme- or rosemary-rubbed roast at a holiday dinner. The red clay limestone soil of the vineyard and galets roulés (famous stones of Rhône which retain heat throughout the night to keep the grapes active during the cold nights) create a lower yielding vine with grapes bursting with concentrated flavor and pronounced acidity. Traveling even further south and closer to the Mediterranean are old vine Carignan-based wines which, in Furuya’s opinion, are excellent options for the milder winters of Hawaiÿi. He notes that Carignan is “not as showy when compared to Syrah or Grenache and the sunbaked, wild countryside of Southern France creates wines of intrigue and complexity from the old vines.” One of Furuya’s standout examples is Domaine de Fontsainte, from the Corbières appellation, whose first vines were said to be planted by the Romans and is one of his favorite French “country-style” wines. Furuya stumbled upon these wines in the 1980s and continues to buy this wine every year because of its amazing deliciousness and food-friendliness. Their 2011 Corbières Rouge “Réserve La Demoiselle” ($17 per bottle; klwines.com) is aged for 12 months in French oak and is a full-bodied, medium-dry red wine with a flavor profile of dark, red berries with a touch of smoke creating beautiful pairings with roasted lamb or grilled sausage. Whether planning a holiday dinner with family and friends or sitting down with loved ones on a chilly night to sip wine and reminisce about the past year, the selection of wine from the Rhône Valley are perfect complements to create delicious and memorable evenings. 95
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STAY HEALTHY AND AVOID COMMON MALADIES TO ENJOY YOUR TIME ON KAUA‘I WORDS COCO ZICKOS
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PHOTO COURTESY: (DR. BURRIS - POIPU MOBILE MD)
No one wants to wind up in the emergency room in the middle of a hard-earned tropical vacation. Unfortunately, however, it can and does happen. Sprained ankles from hiking, lacerations from the reef and severe sunburns are just some of the ailments visitors commonly suffer from after landing on Kaua‘i. Thankfully, there’s a new physician house call service in town that saves visitors from having to commute to the hospital and waste away hours of their precious vacation time waiting for treatment. A quick phone call to Poipu Mobile MD’s 24/7 phone line and Dr. J. Wayne Burris, or another Board Certified Emergency Room or Family Medicine physician, will be at your doorstep in no time treating maladies in the comfort of your hotel room, vacation rental, or even poolside. “That’s my job—to keep people out of the ER,” says Burris who graduated with a Doctor of Medicine and a Masters of Public Health from the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. “It is the most convenient care you can imagine.” Since opening the business less than a year ago, Dr. Burris has helped patients at several hotels along the sunny South Shore like the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort & Spa and the Marriott’s Waiohai Beach Club. His well-stocked medical bag has helped treat everything from ear infections and sea urchin spine injuries to bronchitis/pneumonia and urinary tract infections. His operation is based in Po‘ipü, but he can travel to other locations like Lïhu‘e or Kekaha. He’s also available for phone consultations. What makes Dr. Burris’ service even more reliable is that he actually works at the local ER on Kaua‘i at Wilcox Memorial Hospital, and is also credentialed at Kauai Veterans Memorial Hospital and Samuel Mahelona Memorial Hospital. “We are the same physicians you will find in the ER and hospital, but we will come to your location,” says Dr. Burris. “The quality of care is the same; the convenience of seeing a physician at your location is what sets us apart.” The care goes several steps even further as there are no hassles like waiting rooms or insurance forms to fill out. “With us, a patient has as much time as he or she needs with the physician; and following the visit, our patients receive a telephone call to ensure they are taken care of and a personal physician follow-up visit if needed,” says Dr. Burris. “We even receive phone calls from patients already back home on the mainland.” And, don’t worry—once you arrive back home, you won’t receive any bills from Dr. Burris. There is a one-time flat service fee that patients pay upfront. Burris and his team, in turn, can submit a claim to a patient’s insurance company for reimbursement on their behalf. While Dr. Burris enjoys helping people feel better and making a difference in their lives, he’d actually prefer not to receive a call from them. Most injuries and illnesses are preventable, and he likes to provide information to visitors so that they can stay healthy and avoid seeing a doctor all together while visiting the Garden Isle. “Recognize that Kaua‘i’s trails, beaches and oceans can be treacherous,” says Dr. Burris when offering one of his top suggestions. Proper shoes for hiking are always recommended to prevent falls and sprains, and bringing enough water while trekking mountains or lounging at the beach is key. Of course, slathering on sunscreen helps prevent sunburns, and an excessive amount of alcohol intake while beachside is “not a good combination,” he says. Dr. Burris also stresses for visitors to check ocean conditions online or with a lifeguard before getting in the water and to take extreme caution when walking on seaside rocks. “All this may seem obvious, but we see people in the ER all the time that do not heed these warnings,” he says. myhawaiitraveler.com
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Preventions and Treatments for Common Ailments for Outdoor Enthusiasts Swimmer’s Ear: This happens after water remains inside the ear for too long and creates an environment that breeds bacteria. Pouring a little rubbing alcohol into each ear after swimming helps reduce the chances of infection and pain. The alcohol mixes with the water and causes it to evaporate quickly.
coffeemaker and the same substance that an egg shell is made of,” says Dr. Burris. “Vinegar dissolves calcium carbonate.” He recommends not trying to pull out the spine as they are brittle and can break off into tiny pieces. If any signs of infection like increased pain, swelling, redness, or drainage occurs, immediate medical attention is required.
Sunburn: Wearing sunscreen is the best possible way to prevent damage from UV rays. Also, avoid too much sun exposure, especially early on during a vacation. To treat a burn, take any nonsteroidal antiinflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) such as ibuprofen to help relieve pain and inflammation. You can also place a cold, wet washcloth on the burnt skin and/or aloe vera to provide temporary relief. Drink plenty of water as well since fluid loss increases with inflamed skin. More importantly, don’t re-expose your skin to the sun. “Unfortunately, time and avoidance of repeat exposure are necessary for the skin to heal on its own,” says Dr. Burris. Sea Urchin (wana): All too often, visitors end up stepping on these reef sea creatures whose spines break off and can cause painful puncture wounds. Dr. Burris advises patients to soak the affected area in a warm water and vinegar solution several times a day until the spines dissolve. “Sea urchin spines are made of calcium carbonate, the same substance that precipitates out of water and affects your drip
Heat Exhaustion: Drink plenty of water and reduce alcohol intake in order to prevent this. Additionally, wear loose-fitting clothes and avoid prolonged strenuous activity in the heat. If you feel nausea, headache or weakness, find a cool environment to relieve your body from the strain.
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Seasickness: This is brought about most often when visitors take boat trips and encounter rocky, choppy seas. To reduce the feeling of nausea, look out at the horizon and not down at the water. Face forward in your direction of travel, and not backward. If you have access to fresh ginger root, it “works wonders for nausea,” says Dr. Burris. “Above all, do not go down below deck, as this will make matters worse.” If you are prone to develop seasickness, take Meclizine 25mg tablets that are available over the counter prior to any boat trip. Poipu Mobile MD is available 24 hours a day. Call (808) 652-7021 if you require medical assistance. Visit poipumobilemd.com for more information. KAUA‘I TRAVELER
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THE WONDERFUL FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS
CELEBRATING TWENTY YEARS OF CHRISTMAS—ISLAND STYLE! WORDS COCO ZICKOS
It might not snow in Hawai‘i and chimneys are few and far between, but that doesn’t mean Santa and his elves forgo making a festive appearance each holiday season on Kaua‘i. The North Pole team, which technically consists of dozens of community volunteers, put together a unique Festival of Lights each year at Kaua‘i’s Historic County Building in Lïhu‘e. The colorful display, which even includes regular visits by Jolly Old Saint Nicholas, begins the first Friday in December and stays open every Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 6pm to 8pm until Dec. 30th. The free event is a unique holiday tradition that has occurred annually for the past 19 years on the Garden Isle. Spectators are first treated to a colorful display of lights wrapped around monkeypod trees and palms in the park outside of the building. But that’s only a subtle indication of the holiday explosion that happens once you step 100
foot inside the renovated government structure. Bursting with what can only be described as joy, every corner of the two-story building’s entrance is covered in cheerful holiday décor. Most of the decorations are Hawai‘i-themed like a surfing Santa and Christmas trees festooned with sea creatures. What truly makes this a one-of-a-kind festival, however, is what you’ll notice only when looking closely. Those colorful peacocks and angel ornaments dangling from the trees are actually made from recycled materials. In other words, you’ll find trees decorated lavishly with items like CDs and SPAM cans. Last year, the “Lure of the Sea” tree, for example, was adorned with plastic bottles, beer caps and Slurpee lids that made stunning sea urchins, anemones, crabs and jellyfish. “I love the concept of ‘something from nothing,’” says Elizabeth Freeman, founder and art director of the Festival of Lights. KAUA‘I TRAVELER
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This particular concept of turning trash into holiday treasures started with “Auntie” Josie Chansky whose decorations are still featured in the display. Every year, Chansky, who grew up during Hawai‘i’s plantation period, would decorate her Kapa‘a home with a generous display of Christmas lights and decorations made with elements like IBM punched cards from the 1950s and Kodak Flashcubes from the 1960s. “People in that era simply did not thoughtlessly throw things out,” says Freeman. “You didn’t rush out to buy stuff; you created with what you had.” In 1996, Chansky, who has since passed away, planned to end the tradition and sell her meticulously crafted holiday artwork. Freeman, a yearly admirer, couldn’t bear to let it all go to waste, however, and purchased everything from Chansky with the intention of continuing her legacy in a new location. It’s a feat she has managed to accomplish ever since. The California native comes up with new designs and decorations each year and has a group of “elves” work diligently in what she calls “Santa’s Workshop” either crafting new pieces or lovingly repairing old ones. The work is a year-round affair for Freeman. She not only imagines beautiful new ornaments; she must collect the materials. Friends and family help her amass supplies like bottles and Nespresso coffee pods, and she finds components like aluminum cans at restaurants. “I collect and scrounge,” she says. Freeman also makes an annual pilgrimage to the Scroungers’ Center for Reusable Art Parts in San Francisco to collect new goodies like buttons and fabric. This year, she plans to treat visitors to her latest collection of formerly discarded pieces on the “Kauaÿi Tree,” which is featured for the 20th anniversary. The white-colored tree is typically decorated with handmade ornaments that include the names of every Kaua‘i town. Santa’s elves are busy this season painting new ornaments that will continue paying tribute to all of the Garden Isle’s “extra special places,” says Freeman. Hanalei Pier, Allerton Garden, Polihale, Fern Grotto, Tunnel of Trees, JoJo’s Shave Ice and Hamura’s Saimin are among Kaua‘i’s famed places these inaugural decorations will honor. Anyone looking for a little extra special holiday cheer during their visit to Kaua‘i this year is sure to enjoy this exceptional celebration. “I believe that positive traditions are important to the health of a community, particularly during the holidays which can be stressful for many. Seeing the beautiful holiday lights and feeling a part of a larger community tradition helps strengthen the social fabric,” says Freeman. “Having a beautiful holiday destination created by the community for the community is part of what makes Kaua‘i so special.” The Festival of Lights is free to the public. The event opens Dec. 2 and will be held every Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 6-8 p.m. until Dec. 30th. Visit kauaifestivaloflights.com for more information. 102
KAUA‘I TRAVELER
DESTINATIONS
EAST KAUA‘I
THE ROYAL COCONUT COAST
The East Side of Kaua‘i is often referred to as the Royal Coconut Coast. Appropriately named, considering the royal history and the abundance of ancient coconut groves from Wailua to Kapa‘a. Back in the 1300s, this area was called Kawaihau (the ice water), and it was the location of choice for Hawai‘i’s royalty. Kawaihau is mainly divided into four areas: Wailua, Kapa‘a, Waipouli and Ke‘alia. The kings chose Wailua to be the capital of Kaua‘i. High chiefs believed that the area around the mouth of the Wailua River was sacred and called it Wailua Nui Hoano or Great Sacred Wailua. This sacred area extended two miles up the Wailua River. Seven heiau (shrine) were built in an arc from the shores of Wailua up Mount Wai‘ale‘ale ending on the Westside of Kaua‘i. Royalty would come to Wailua from the neighboring islands to give birth at the birthstones of Holoholok‘u. When a king was born, a kahuna (priest) would take the child up the mountain to a bell stone. He would strike the bell stone with a rock, sounding the birth of a new king. No commoner was allowed in this area unless they were servicing a chief. You can view the birthstones and five different heiau at the Wailua River State Park. Please remember that this is a special place of worship and needs to be treated with respect. Do not leave offerings or move any rocks. Below the Wailua River State Park is Lydgate Beach. Two rock-lined seawater pools make it a haven for year round swimming. Above Wailua Park is Wailua homesteads. Here you will find many hiking trails and 103
freshwater swimming holes. Waipouli (dark water) is a little town between Wailua and Kapa‘a. Before all of the commercial development, Hawaiian royalty used this area to set sail to other locations in the Pacific. Due to the sudden popularity of fractional ownership, Waipouli is now a mile-long strip of shops and modern conveniences. Old Kapa‘a Town is the remnant of an old plantation town. Most of the buildings have been renovated and filled with boutiques, bars and restaurants, making Kapa‘a a hip little hot spot. Although, there are many beach parks in the area, be very careful about swimming here. The East Shore is best known for fishing, and the rocky shoreline can be very dangerous during high tide. As the locals say, “Never turn your back to the ocean.” If you’re driving north from Kapa‘a town, you will come across a large crescent shaped, golden sand beach called Keälia. The Kapa‘a Stream flows across the south end of the beach. You may see kayakers paddling in the stream or people rinsing off after a salty dip in the ocean. The area around the beach was once a 2,000-acre sugar plantation. Today, in an effort to preserve our agricultural past, Plantation Partners have converted the area into the largest agricultural subdivision on the island. Today the Coconut Coast is lined with newly renovated resorts, spas, condominiums and residences. They provide a getaway for travelers from around the globe. KAUA‘I TRAVELER
SAND + SURF
HIT THE BEACH KAWEONUI (SEALODGE) BEACH
This pocket of white sand beach backed by cliffs is a great place to snorkel and see honu in calm ocean conditions or just be secluded from the rest of the world. Beware of dangerous entry and currents. Offshore is a surf break known as “Little Grass Shack.” Located off Kamehameha Rd. Access beach from the trail at Building A at the SeaLodge Resort.
KĒ‘Ē BEACH
NORTH SHORE ‘ANINI BEACH PARK
This beautiful white sand beach has one of the largest coral reefs in Hawai‘i and has some of the best snorkeling in Kaua‘i for all levels. Swimming is among the safest in the North Shore, and a good place to learn how to windsurf. You can see magnificent sunsets from here. Grills, camping, restrooms and showers are available. No lifeguards. Located off Kühiö Hwy. Turn west on second Kalihiwai Rd between 25 and 26 mile markers. Take ‘Anini Road to beach.
HĀ‘ENA STATE PARK
This long stretch of white sand beach with a protective coral reef is a great snorkeling spot with a variety of colorful tropical fish when the water is calm. This is also a great place to beachcomb, surf, windsurf and fish. You can explore nearby sea caves carved out more than 4,000 years ago when the sea was higher. Camping, showers and restrooms are available. Located at the end of Kühiö Hwy.
HANALEI BAY
One of the most majestic places on earth, this spot is also a great place to learn to surf, frolic in the water, jump off the pier, or just enjoy the incredible scenery. The sunsets are spectacular and the moonlight over Hanalei Bay is magical. There are four beach parks included in the two-mile sandy crescent shaped bay, and all have lifeguards on duty except Waikoko Beach. Black Pot Park is located next to the Hanalei River mouth, with tropical foliage along the river’s edge, and is a local gathering place with a variety of water activities. The Hanalei Pavilion Beach Park is a popular spot for picnics. The water is generally calmer near the pier. Wai‘oli Beach Park is near the center of the bay, set in an ironwood grove. Waikoko Beach is located on the westernmost section, and is protected by Waikoko Reef, so it’s popular with snorkelers and families. Picnic area, tables, pavilions, grills, showers and restrooms are available. Located off Kühiö Hwy in Hanalei. Access beaches off Aku Rd or Weke Rd. 104
KA‘AKA‘ANIU “LARSEN’S” BEACH
This long, narrow ribbon of sand and shallow reef lies at the foot of a series of low hills and pastures. A protecting reef offers excellent snorkeling for the experienced, but only when the ocean is calm. Poor visibility in the water can occur in the late summer. Beware of its rocky bottom and dangerous rip currents, and stay away from the channels. This secluded beach is also a good place to beachcomb and fish. There are two small pockets of sand on the opposite side of Pakala Point. No lifeguard and no facilities. Located off Hwy 56 near the 20-mile marker, take Ko‘olau Rd. Take the left Beach Access Rd. to the end. Walk through the gate and follow the trail down.
KALIHIWAI BEACH
This wide sandy beach fringed with ironwood trees at the head of scenic Kalihiwai Bay is popular with boogie boarders and beginner surfers. Swimming is generally good in the summer. One of the nicest surfing breaks on the North Shore in the winter brings the more experienced out to this beach. Wide, shallow sand bar enables body boarders to ride decent waves in the front part of the beach. High surf periods create dangerous swimming conditions. Located off Kühiö Hwy west of Kïlauea on Kahihiwai Rd.
KAUAPEA “SECRET” BEACH
This exquisite, long and wide sandy beach with great views of Lighthouse Point is stunning. Swimming and snorkeling can be good when the ocean is calm. Swimming can be hazardous, so observe the ocean before entering. Look for the small waterfall flowing over the side of the cliff. You can see Moku‘ae‘ae Island, which is a bird sanctuary. Located off Kuhio Hwy on the same turnoff as Kalihiwai Beach. Take a right onto the first dirt road, drive to the end of the road and park. The hike down takes about 10-15 minutes.
The Thornbirds and Lord of the Flies were filmed at this exquisite and very popular beach. With views of the Näpali Coast, it is great for snorkeling and swimming in the protected lagoon in calm conditions. Snorkelers and scuba divers can expect to see teems of tropical fish and honu (green sea turtles) on calm, clear days. Stay inside the reef for calmer waters. Beware of strong currents and dangerous waves breaking on rocks and ledges. The currents are deceptively strong even on days when the water looks calm, so it’s best to stay in the reef-protected lagoon. The beach gets crowded with hikers and beachgoers, so get there early for a parking space. You may want to stay for the magnificent Näpali sunsets from the point. The trailhead for Kalalau Trail is from here. Bathrooms and showers are available. No lifeguards. Located at the end of the road on Hwy 56.
LUMAHA‘I BEACH (BALI HAI)
One of the most stunning and most photographed beaches in Kaua‘i, it was made famous as the location for the movie South Pacific. This large, wide beautiful golden sand beach is popular with a background of verdant foliage cliffs. Swimming is not recommended here, since there is no protective reef barrier to guard you against the tumultuous sea. Dangers include powerful waves sweeping up unsuspecting beachgoers off the rocks into the sea, strong undertow and dangerous shorebreaks. It’s a great beach to sunbathe and take in the incredible scenery. Access to the western part of the beach is located off Hwy 560 at Wainiha near mile marker 5. The eastern part of the beach is separated by a lava rock of Lumaha‘i is Kahalahala Beach. In calm conditions (summer), this beach can be a picturesque beach to swim in crystal clear warm water and explore the tidepools. No facilities or lifeguards. Park in the dirt parking lot. To access, hike down a steep jungle trail from the top of the lookout.
MĀKUA “TUNNELS” BEACH
This is one of the best snorkeling beaches due to the wide-fringing reef with a huge variety of fish swimming around in the shallow inner and outer reefs. The exceptional beach is surrounded by gently sloping sand and is well protected with incredible mountain scenery popular with swimmers, surfers, windsurfers and beachcombers. The best snorkeling is in the center by the crescent shaped reef. Scuba divers can explore the underwater caverns near the shore. Beware of sharp reefs, rip currents and dangerous water conditions. No facilities at this beach, but the facilities at Hä‘ena State Park are nearby. Lifeguard on duty. Take one of two dirt roads off Hwy 56 north of Hanalei near the 8 mile marker. KAUA‘I TRAVELER
MOLOA‘A BEACH
Surrounded by rolling hills, this beach is secluded and off the beaten path, with a wide crescent shaped sandy beach perfect for couples to catch a spectacular sunset or sunbathe, swim, snorkel and beachcomb. Be cautious of dangerous water conditions. The southeast side of the beach offers the best swimming and boogie boarding with plenty of shade. The beach is located where the Molo‘a (matted roots) Stream feeds into the bay. Located off Ko‘olau Rd. between mile markers 16 and 17. Take the narrow Moloa‘a Rd. to the end and follow the signs to the beach.
NĀPALI COAST PARK
About a two mile hike down from the Kalalau Trail is Hanakäpï‘ai Beach. The beach is beautiful but dangerous to swim. A difficult two mile hike inland near the stream leads to the waterfalls and a spectacular pool. Kalalau Beach is a long and wide sandy beach backed by sand dunes, located at the end of the trail (9 additional miles). There are other beautiful pristine beaches such as Miloli‘i Beach and Honopu Beach in the park, but they are only accessible by boat. Swimming and wading is dangerous due to strong currents and powerful waves at all the beaches in this awe-inspiring park. Camping is allowed with a permit. No lifeguard on duty. Access the beach from Kalalau Trail from Kë‘ë Beach at the end of Hwy 56.
PALI KE KUA (HIDEAWAYS)
Two beaches separated by a rocky point both have excellent snorkeling with a variety of tropical fish when the water is calm. Check ocean conditions carefully before entering for rip currents and do not enter when there is high surf. The large false kamani trees offer shade on the bed of coarse sand. People are scarce due to limited parking and hidden trail. Located off Ka Haku Rd. Take the path next to Pu‘u Poa tennis courts just before you reach the Princeville Hotel gatehouse and hike down to the beach.
PU‘U POA BEACH
Protected by a narrow reef offers great snorkeling with teems of colorful fish in crystal clear water. Safe when the surf is not high. The sandy beach is located directly below Princeville Hotel. Park at the small public parking lot. Take the beach access steps by the guardhouse at the hotel entrance.
QUEEN’S BATH
Nature’s wonder of a large crescent tidepool at the edge of the ocean created in an old lava shelf becomes a large fantastic swimming pool to enjoy when water is calm. Do not enter when the water is not calm. It is very dangerous during the winter months and high surf and should be avoided at these times. It will be difficult to find during high surf. The trail is located where Punahele Road and Kapiolani Loop meet. Follow the trail off Kapiolani Rd. The trail will pass a seasonal waterfall and lead to the lava-fringed ocean. Walk towards the left and look for the horseshoe shaped lava shelf.
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WAIAKALUA BEACH
A fabulous secluded beach with a long, fringing reef and shade along the sandy beach. Snorkeling and swimming can be good if the ocean is calm. There is a cool freshwater stream at the far end of the beach. Beware of dangerous rip currents, surges and high surf. Located off North Waiakalua Rd. Before the road ends, take the dirt road on the left side all the way to the end. Take the trail to the left and it’s the beach on the left. The beach on the right, past the Kepuhi Point is Waipakä Beach.
EAST SIDE ‘ALIOMANU BEACH
Pretty sandy beach shaded by ironwood trees and fringed by one of Kaua‘i’s longest reefs, this beach is a favorite of locals for gathering seaweed and spearfishing. Swimming can be safe in the lagoon when calm. Located off Kühiö Hwy on Aliomanu Rd.
ANAHOLA BEACH PARK
Grassy park with a beautiful sandy beach with good swimming conditions most of the time in the cove on the east side of the bay due to a large protective reef offshore. Snorkeling is good at the nearby reef; fishing and beachcombing are also good. The beach used mostly by locals is good for boogie board, body board and surf south of the old pier. The ironwood grove offers shade. Picnic tables, restrooms and showers are available. Lifeguard on duty. Located off Kühiö Hwy on Anahola Rd.
DONKEY (KUMUKUMU) BEACH
A fantastic long sandy beach in a cove at the base of a pasture named Donkey Beach because of the herd of mules that rested on the beach in the early plantation days. The waves draw in many surfers but it’s not a good beach for beginners. The winters yield high surf making swimming dangerous. Beware of steep entry,
dangerous shorebreaks, strong currents and rocks submerged in the surf. Snorkeling can be good in a secluded cove north of the stream and over a small hill. No facilities or lifeguards. Located north of Kapa‘a ~ 1/2 mile north of the 11 mile marker off Hwy 56. Parking lot is at the top of the path to the beach. Hike 10 minutes to shoreline and take right for the beach; turn north and walk past the stream for the secluded cove.
FUJI BEACH (BABY BEACH)
Protected shallow section in the reef by a long, natural breakwater makes it a great place to have some water fun with the kids while you soak up the sun on the sandy beach. No facilities or lifeguards. Located off Kühiö Hwy behind the Chevron in Kapa‘a.
KEĀLIA BEACH
A long, exquisite sandy beach with powerful waves makes it a great spot to watch experienced surfers and boogie boarders. Swimming can be done on calm days at the far northern end of the beach, which is protected by breakwater, but be careful of strong currents and sharp reefs. Public parking. Lifeguard on duty but no facilities. Located off Hwy 56 near mile marker 10 north of Kapa‘a in Keälia.
LYDGATE STATE PARK
A scenic family beach that is very popular since it offers something for everyone including a park. There are two large lava pools great for children and offers safe swimming and snorkeling for beginners. Rock wall protects swimmers year-round and the ironwood groves provide shade. Kamalani playground has a wooden volcano; jungle gym and bright ceramic sea creatures adorn the playground. Picnic pavilions, grills, showers and restrooms are available. Lifeguard on duty. Located off Kühiö Hwy on Leho Drive just south of the Wailua River. 105
KALAPAKĪ BEACH
This is a beautiful sandy crescent-shaped beach with tranquil water and a great place to learn to surf on the offshore break with great views of pali in the bay. It’s a great place to swim when conditions are calm. Beware of strong rip currents during high surf. Located off Rice St. west of Lïhu‘e in front of the Kaua‘i Marriott Resort and Beach Club. Park in the public parking lot at the hotel.
LĀWA‘I (BEACH HOUSE) BEACH
Small sandy beach is popular with snorkelers when the water is calm for the variety of fish in the offshore reef. It’s also a popular surfing spot for the waves that break offshore. Surfing competitions are held regularly here in spring thru fall. The small pocket of sand disappears in times of high surf. Beware of seasonal strong currents. The beach is located next to the Beach House Restaurant off Läwa‘i Rd.
MĀHĀ‘ULEPŪ BEACH
A long, beautiful and romantic beach with mountain vistas is a two mile sandy strand along a reef-protected shoreline and high sand dunes. The beauty of this beach was captured in the movie Islands in the Stream where George C. Scott played Ernest Hemingway. It’s good for swimming only during extreme calm conditions. Windsurfing, beachcombing and shoreline fishing are popular activities. This is a sacred site for native Hawaiians and for endangered plants and species. No facilities and no lifeguards. Beach is closed from 7pm to 7:30am. Follow the cane road past Shipwreck Beach. Stop at the guard gate to get through.
NININI BEACHES
NUKOLI‘I BEACH
Beautiful long narrow stretch of beach with shallow bottom offers an array of water activities. The beach stretches for miles to Lydgate Park swimming and snorkeling can be good in the well-protected reef and shallow waters when surf is calm. Fishing and surfing are also good here. Check ocean conditions before entering. There are more secluded beaches further north near Wailua Golf Coarse. Located at the end of Kaua‘i Beach Drive.
WAILUA BEACH
Long, wide golden sand beach near the Wailua River is good for taking a stroll or watching the experienced boogie boarders, surfers or watching the river flow into the sea. Swimming is dangerous due to strong rip currents and rough water. Children sometimes play near the river mouth when the currents aren’t strong. No facilities and no lifeguard. Located across from Coco Palms Resort. The beach is easily accessible when traveling north off Kühiö Hwy.
WAIPŌULI BEACH
A long stretch of golden sand without crowds isn’t good for swimming since the ocean is rough and the coastline is rocky or reef, but it’s a great beach to watch windsurfers and fishermen pull in their catch. The beach has lots of hidden coves for seclusion and can be 106
romantic. There is also a nice trail to jog while you take in the glorious scenery. Monk seals have been spotted quite frequently here. Located off Kühiö Hwy. There are many access points behind Coconut Marketplace.
LĪHU‘E & SOUTH SHORE BRENNECKE’S BEACH
A small sandy beach is popular with boogie boarders and honu. Waves tend to be bigger here in the summer than winter. Grassy area with picnic tables, showers and restrooms are available. Located on Po‘ipü Rd.
HO‘AI (PRINCE KŪHIŌ) BEACH
A beautiful sandy crescent shaped beach with water protected by an offshore reef great for keiki and novice snorkelers when water is calm. This beach is popular for the honu (green sea turtles) and local fishermen who frequent the beach. Restrooms and showers are available. No lifeguard on duty. Located off Läwa‘i Rd. in front of the Prince Kühiö Park.
HO‘ONA “BABY” BEACH
Great sandy beach for keiki (children) since the water is calm in a small cove behind off shore lava rocks. Access the beach using the walkway on Ho‘ona Rd. off Läwa‘i Rd.
Ninini Beach and Running Waters Beach are hidden and out of the way beaches with pockets of sand separated by a lava rock formation. Protected and secluded, the beaches are good for snorkeling on calm days. Park across the street from the Kaua‘i Lagoons Golf Course or the clubhouse parking lot and follow path to beaches. Between Kalapakï beach and the lighthouse on Ninini Point near the 13th green.
PO‘IPŪ BEACH PARK
Po‘ipü Beach in the county park is nationally ranked and popular because the sunny weather and calm water that surrounds the chain of beautiful wide, white sandy beaches. An offshore reef causes the waves to break before they reach the shore making it a keikifriendly beach. Swimming and snorkeling are great between the offshore reef and the coast while the breaking waves outside the calm waters create surfing and boogie boarding opportunities. The protected beach area is great for novice snorkelers. Dangerous water conditions can occur during periods of high surf. Beginning surf lessons are available as well as a nearby playground. Lifeguards, picnic tables, pavilions, showers and restrooms are also available. Located off Po‘ipü Rd. south of Ho‘owili Rd.
KAUA‘I TRAVELER
SAND + SURF SHIPWRECK (KEONELOA) BEACH
A lovely beach to sunbathe but not a good swimming beach due to dangerous ocean conditions is named for an old unidentified shipwreck. On the left is Makawehi Point where you will see fishermen surf casts and brave locals jumping into the sea as did Harrison Ford and Anne Heche from Six Days, Seven Nights. It’s a good beach for boogie boarding, surfing and windsurfing for the experienced. Showers and restrooms are available. No lifeguard on duty. Located in front of the Hyatt. Take public access road between the Hyatt and the Po‘ipü Bay Resort Golf Course.
WEST SIDE BARKING SANDS BEACH
SALT POND BEACH PARK
The protected reef in this pretty crescent shaped beach with lots of palms is great for swimming, snorkeling and beachcombing. Swimming is usually safe year round in the large lagoon and the sunsets are spectacular. Salt ponds are nearby where generations past made salt by evaporating seawater in red earthen pans and still do today. Please do not enter the salt-making area. The beach is also great for windsurfing, boogie boarding and exploring the tidepools. Lifeguard on duty. Picnic tables, pavilions, grills, camping, restrooms and showers are available. Located in Hanapëpë. Take left turn on Lele past town off Kaumuali‘i Hwy and right on Lokokai Rd. to park.
EDITOR’S NOTE: There is a wise saying in Hawai‘i, “Leave only footprints and take only memories.” Please take all your trash and don’t take anything that does not belong to you including those that belong to the sea. It’s best to leave your valuables at your hotel and not in your car, so the time can be spent relaxing and not worrying. Conditions change with the seasons, so take the time to evaluate the sea and read the beach safety. It is highly recommended to visit beaches with lifegauards on duty.
The beach is a continuation of the long white sand beach with superb vistas of Ni‘ihau and incredible sunsets. The name is due to the sound the sand sometimes makes when sliding down the 60’ high dunes along the beach but watch out for the thorns from the kiawe trees. Swimming is not recommended on this beach due to dangerous ocean conditions. Located between Kekaha Beach and Polihale Beach on the northern part of the Pacific Missiles Range off Kaumuali‘i.
KEKAHA BEACH PARK
This is the first beach of the series and is an exquisite long stretch of white sand with spectacular sunsets and many great surfing spots along the way. The beach offers clear views of Ni‘ihau. This area is almost always sunny and shade is absent. Picnic area, grills, pavilions, showers and restrooms are available. Swimming can be extremely dangerous. Lifeguard on duty. Located off Kaumuali‘i Hwy.
PĀKALĀ (INFINITIES) BEACH
The beach is picturesque and surrounded by lush tropical foliage and trees and a favorite spot for experienced surfers. This is not a good swimming beach due to murky water known for shark sightings and other dangerous ocean conditions, but it’s a great place to watch the locals surf and catch a magical sunset. The reef is called “Infinities” because it creates long perfect waves. Located by 21-mile marker off Hwy 50.
POLIHALE BEACH
The longest and widest stretch of beach in the Hawaiian Islands, this 7-mile white sandy beach is breathtaking and considered to be one of the most beautiful beaches in Kaua‘i. The name means, “a leaping off place for spirits” or “house of death”. The usually sunny beach is framed by the majestic Näpali Coast and has sweeping sand dunes that can get up to 100 feet high and you can catch amazing sunsets with views of Ni‘ihau. This remote area is a great place to stargaze. The only safe place to swim is in the Queen’s Pond where the fringing reef offers protection from the extremely strong currents when the surf isn’t high; beware of sharp coral. Picnic tables, showers and restrooms are available. No lifeguards. Camping by permit only. Located at end of Rte 50. Take left onto the bumpy dirt road and drive several miles. Follow signs to beach.
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CALENDAR
KAUA‘I EVENTS ONGOING LIVE MUSIC AT SHUTTER’S LOUNGE
(Everyday) – Listen to great live music while dining on well-priced, delicious food every evening including late night fare and small plates at Shutter’s Lounge at Kauaÿi Beach Resort located in Lïhuÿe. Open Sunday through Thursday from 5pm to 11pm and 5pm to midnight on Fridays and Saturdays. Call Kauaÿi Beach Resort (808) 245-1955 for more information. WAIMEA HISTORIC WALKING TOUR
(Mondays) – Take a 2.5-hour walk back through time in the place where Captain Cook first landed in Waimea. Where the agricultural landscape changed from taro to rice to corn, watered by an intricate ditch system with a marvelous history dating back to the time of the legendary Menehune. Learn about the last King of Kauaÿi, the missionaries, and other famous citizens of Waimea along with the landmarks they left behind. Enjoy a taste of the past in one of the most historic towns in all of Hawaiÿi. Registration is required for participation and Special Group tours are available. Free. Call West Kauaÿi Tech & Visitor Center (808) 3381332 for more information. GROVE FARM MUSEUM TOUR
(Mon., Wed., Thurs.) – An unhurried, 2-hour guided tour of the 100-acre Grove Farm site preserves one of Hawaiÿi’s sugar plantation buildings, furnishings and collections, surrounding orchards and pasturelands. This homestead was the center of operations for the developing sugar plantation and involved the relationship of family life, plantation activity, household work, gardening and farming and continues as part of the experience of visiting Grove Farm. Advance reservations are required (10am to 1pm). Fee: $20 for adults and $10 for ages 5-12. Call (808) 245-3202. KAUA‘I CULINARY MARKET
(Wednesdays) – Meet Kaua‘i growers and package food vendors, as well as The Shops at Kukui‘ula merchants and enjoy Chef Demonstration at 5pm with Kaua‘i grown produce, and listen to Hawaiian and local style music. Wine and beer garden, freshly grilled püpü and sweet treats, and 20 Kaua‘i growers and package food vendors make for a lively fun evening. Stay for dinner and shopping at the great retail shops and restaurants. Every 108
Wednesday from 3:30pm to 6pm at The Shops at Kukui‘ula in Po‘ipü. HANAPĒPĒ FRIDAY NIGHT FESTIVAL & ART WALK
(Fridays) – Come join the festivity! Every Friday evening, Old Town Hanapëpë is bustling with fun and activity! With a wide variety of shopping, local crafters, several excellent restaurants, a dozen art galleries, stilt walkers, classics cars, live music and entertainment, there is always something for the whole family to enjoy! From 6pm-9pm. Call Ed (808) 335-6469. ALOHA FRIDAY: MAKE A LEI, WEAR A LEI
(Fridays) - Come and enjoy making fresh flower lei and learn the different methods of lei making. Materials are provided. Workshop in Waimea at West Kauaÿi Visitor Center. Free. For more info, call (808) 338-1332. KAUA‘I COMMUNITY MARKET
(Saturdays) - New weekend value added farmers market hosted by the Kauaÿi County Farm Bureau and Kauaÿi Community College. Kauaÿi Community Market features a wide variety of locally grown fruit and produce, value added products like coffee, honey and goat cheese, plus culinary treats, breakfast and lunch items to eat at the market or take home. Learn ways to grow and prepare local foods, educational demos and garden tours held regularly. A great way to buy fresh and buy local, supporting Kauaÿi Grown products and Kauaÿi farmers from Hanalei to Kekaha. At Kauaÿi Community College front lawn and parking lot from 9:30am to 1pm. Free. Call (808) 652-3217. ‘OHANA DAY
(Monthly) – The first Saturday of each month is ‘Ohana Day for family fun at the Kauaÿi Museum. Look forward to demonstrations, lectures and more during these special days. 10am to 5pm at the Kauaÿi Museum in Lïhuÿe. Free for kamaÿäina, and discounted for visitors. Call (808) 245-6931. PRINCEVILLE NIGHT MARKET
(Monthly) - Princeville Night Market is a monthly festival, held every second Sunday, featuring live music and local artisans at the Princeville Shopping Center. Discover 40+ local artisans as you walk around the grounds from 4pm to 8pm. Listen to live music from several different bands. Find pottery,
paintings, photography, apparel, jewelry, wood workers and more! For more info, email PrincevilleNightMarket@gmail.com. KĪLAUEA ART NIGHT
(Sept. 24, Oct. 29, Nov. 26, Dec. 31) - Kïlauea Art Night is a monthly festival featuring live music, local artisans and trendy food trucks. Line up for pulled-pork sandwiches and fresh fish tacos, stretch out on blankets while listening to the band. Walk around the historic Stone building grounds to discover 40+ local artisans. Find pottery, paintings, photography, apparel, jewelry, wood workers and more! Email KilaueaArtNight@gmail.com for more info. KEIKI DAY AT NA ‘ĀINA BOTANICAL GARDENS & SCULPTURE PARK
(Oct. 15, Nov. 19) – Na ÿÄina Kai’s playday is a monthly event where you can enjoy quality time with your kids in the “Under the Rainbow” Children’s Garden. Kids can get wet and play in Jack’s fountain, explore the jungle tree house and discover the many child-friendly features of the Children’s Garden. Bring a towel, and be prepared to get wet. Outside snacks are permitted and reservations are recommended; $10/person (free for babies under one). The annual Halloween event is Oct. 15th in lieu of Keiki Day (entry fee is $10/advance, $12/door) from 4-7pm. Costumes are encouraged. For more info or to make reservations, call (808) 828-0525 or visit NaAinaKai.org/Keiki-Day. SEPTEMBER MĀLIE FOUNDATION: KAUA‘I MOKIHANA FESTIVALS
(Sept. 18-24) – Kaua‘i Mokihana Festival is a weeklong celebration of Hawaiian culture and includes educational lectures, craft fairs, music and hula competitions at various locations around the island of Kaua‘i. The finale cannot be missed, as a solo competition will enchant the audience before the competing hälau and audience wait breathlessly as the judges announce the winners. At Kauaÿi Beach Resort. Call Maka (808) 822-2166 or visit MalieFoundation.org for detailed information on events and locations. KAUAI ISLAND CRAFTERS FAIR
(Sept. 24) - You will find an amazing array of quality hand-made products from Kauai’s own crafters and artisans. Beautifully-crafted handbags, fabric angels, Hawaiian quilts, KAUA‘I TRAVELER
CALENDAR Hawaiian dolls, towel wraps, Kauaÿi scenic photography & paintings & fiber arts, carved hardwood tikis & bone jewelry, beachwear cover-up, sunrise shell jewelry, souvenirs and lots more by local Kauaÿi artists. This is where you will find that unique gift for that joyous occasion or special someone that will be cherished for years (8am to 2pm). Place: Church of the Pacific, 5-4280 Kühiö Highway, Princeville. Proceeds to benefit The Church of the Pacific. Contact (808) 635-4314. OCTOBER 20TH ANNUAL COCONUT FESTIVAL
(Oct. 1-2) - The Kapaÿa Business Association presents the Annual Coconut Festival at Kapaÿa Beach Park! Celebrate all that is Coconut with unique coconut crafts, coconut games, delicious coconut foods and contests with some of the best crafters, artists and entertainers in Hawaiÿi! Enjoy non-stop music, taiko drummers, hula, and fun. Live music Saturday and Sunday. Lots of fun for keiki, too. With a children’s stage, petting zoo, inflatables and coconut activities. Cooking demos by some of the island’s best chefs. For more info, call Tricia (808) 652-4988. PRINCESS KA‘IULANI KEIKI FESTIVAL
(Oct. 15) - The theme of this year’s event is “Honoring the Aliÿi of Old”. This family friendly event includes live entertainment, hula, children’s activities, cultural activities, a children’s art exhibit, children’s performances, taiko drumming, a royal procession and parade, and children’s story time. The festival culminates with the Princess’ Birthday Party in Sparky’s Garden at Storybook Theatre. From 12pm to 4pm; free. Contact Mark for more info (808) 335-0712 or visit Storybook.org. KAUA‘I WRITERS’ FESTIVAL
(Oct. 31- Nov. 6) – This festival provides a comprehensive resource for writers who want to develop their skills, both in craft and in publishing savvy. It’s also great for literature lovers who want to take a deeper dive into how books are developed. It offers: Four days of optional Master Classes covering Literary Fiction, Thrillers, Screenwriting, and Memoir with top authors and agents (Oct. 31 – Nov. 3). Three days of unsurpassed conference content with world-class faculty (Nov. 4-6). Connect with your writing peers as you learn from some of the top writers and literary agents at work today. Get the benefit of top experts on traditional, myhawaiitraveler.com
KAUA‘I CULINARY MARKET Wednesdays at The Shops at Kukui‘ula independent and self-publishing. Intensive and intimate sessions with master practitioners in these genres to help you get started, overcome obstacles, and fulfill the potential of your writing project. Visit KauaiWritersConference.com for more information. NOVEMBER VETERANS DAY PARADE
(Nov. 5) – The annual parade honors veterans and is made up of the following participants: the County of Kauai as well as each military service and the civilian population of Kauai. Also as part of this event, there will be food and craft booths and entertainment at the Historic County Building grounds. From 10am to 2pm; free. For more info, call Russel (808) 652-4802. DECEMBER CHRISTMAS CRAFT FAIR AND LIGHTS ON RICE PARADE!
(Dec. 2) – Come and celebrate Christmas with the Kauaÿi Museum as you create crafts of all sorts and watch stunning floats as they glow and glisten along Rice Street! Craft fair all day from 10am-9pm Lights on Rice Street parade starts just before 6pm. For more info, call the museum at (808) 245-6931.
FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS
(Dec. 2-30) – The Festival of Lights opens the first Friday in December and runs every Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 6-8pm. Come on by…it’s free! The park lights glow every night through the New Year. The Festival of Lights interior displays gorgeous creations and the dazzling creations crafted by Kauaÿi artisans. The Festival of Lights is truly a reflection of Kauaÿi’s Spirit of Aloha. Visit KauaiFestivalOfLights.com for more information. NEW YEAR’S EVE CELEBRATION
(Dec. 31) - From 5:30-9pm on the grounds of Poÿipü Beach Park in celebration of the successes of 2016 and future prosperity of 2017. The event includes food trucks, live entertainment or a movie in the park, activities for the keiki and spectacular display of fireworks. The event is free (except for food/drink) and open to the public providing attendees an opportunity to enjoy this traditional celebration in a beautiful, ocean-side environment. All events are subject to change. Check out MyHawaiiTraveler.com for updates and more events. 109
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KAUA‘I TRAVELER
KAUA‘I FOR YOUR INFORMATION Area Code (808) for entire state
EMERGENCY NUMBERS Ambulance/Police/Fire Civil Defense Poison Control Wilcox Memorial Hospital
911 733-4300 1-800-362-3585 245-1100
AIRPORTS
Līhu‘e Ariport
AIRLINES
Alaska Airlines American Airlines go! Airlines Hawaiian Airlines Japan Airlines United Airlines
CREDIT CARDS
American Express MasterCard Visa Credit Card Directory
TRANSPORTATION
Hertz Car Rental Bus Taxi
246-1448
1-800-654-5669 1-800-433-7300 1-888-IFLYGO2 1-800-882-8811 1-800-525-3663 1-800-241-6522
1-800-221-7282 1-800-307-7309 1-800-847-2911 1-800-555-1212
1-800-654-3011 241-6410 246-9554
WEATHER/CONDITIONS Weather Forecast Marine Forecast
245-6001 245-3564
VISITOR INFORMATION Directory 1-800-555-1212 Information 411 Agricultural Inspection 245-2831 Hawai‘i County Parks 241-4463 Hawai‘i State Parks 274-3444 Fishing License 274-3344 Hunting License 274-3433 Kaua‘i Chamber of Commerce 245-7363 Kaua‘i Visitors Information 1-800-262-1400
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LOCAL VIBE
WHY DON'T YOU... REWARD YOURSELF.
Being a super-parent juggling homework, football practices, recitals, tween drama and meals all while maintaining a graceful attitude takes a lot of energy. You deserve to indulge in some time just for yourself while being pampered in a tranquil setting. Try a lomilomi massage, which is the Hawaiian art of healing known for its beneficial remedy of relieving stress and tension while increasing stamina or choose from an array of treatments featuring luxurious Hawaiian products. Choose a treatment unique to Hawai‘i and rejuvenate your senses with a tropical escapade—your mind and body will thank you. Anara Spa at Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i (808) 240-6440 or Halele‘a Spa at The St. Regis Princeville Resort (808) 826-9644.
CELEBRATE EVERY SUNSET. Sunsets are extra special on Kaua‘i with the sights and sounds not found in most places. Watching the everchanging colors of the sky from brilliant reds to pastel pinks as the sun bids good night is a sight you won’t take for granted. Make it extra, extra special by taking a sunset sail to the breathtaking Näpali Coast with dinner and drinks on a comfortable catamaran. Blue Dolphin (808) 335-5553, Holo Holo (808) 335-0815, and Kauai Sea Tours (808) 335-5309.
DISCOVER HANDMADE TREASURES. There are four great art festivals are here when it’s scheduled, featuring local artisans, unique crafts, handmade clothing, pottery, jewelry, delicious foods, live music and entertainment: Hanapëpë Friday Night Festival & Art Walk, Old Town Kapaÿa Art Walk (monthly), Princeville Night Market (monthly) and Kïlauea Art Night (monthly). For more information, see the “Calendar of Events” section of Kauai Traveler. 112
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Whether you’re an adrenaline junkie or finally facing your fear of heights, ziplining on the Garden Isle is an experience you soon won’t forget! With amazing vistas and lush tropical foliage, this is a fun vacation photo worth posting for instant likes. Koloa Zipline (808) 742-2734 or Skyline Eco-Adventures (808) 419-7948 KAUA‘I TRAVELER
PHOTO COURTESY: (BOTTOM RT) SKYLINE ECO-ADVENTURES; (TOP LT) GRAND HYATT KAUAI RESORT & SPA
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LOCAL VIBE SPA + STYLE THE BEST BEACHES EPIC ADVENTURES FOOD + DRINK WHAT WE LOVE NOW HEALTHY TRAVELING FALL 2016
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TREE OF LIFE
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KAUA‘I SHRIMP SWEET FROM HEAD TO TAIL