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No. 39, 2010
Taiwan on Two Wheels
Coast and Mountain Scooter Tour
Specialties
Eating Like a Local at Lugang
High-Speed Trip
Taipei and Kaohsiung in One Day
Romantic Travels Places for Lovers in Northern Taiwan ish 4 gl 6 9 En n : 7 l y w a te 7 th ai s5i 1 8 on e T e4 b7 tDw h W5 NtT. :1 m Bi f t u3. 0 0n0e N S ial e o ea9 n2. r0 I S f ic zin u0 wa f 2 O a :B ai e ag mN /t M uGriPs p:/ t To ht
Th
Romance at Sun Moon Lake
Publisher's Note
Welcome to Taiwan!
Dear Traveler,
TAIWAN IS FOR LOVERS A TALE OF TWO CITIES Cooling Off and Getting Wet Eat Like a Local
In Taiwan, wedding photos are traditionally shot before the wedding by professional companies specializing in portrait photography, makeup and hairstyling, and wedding dresses plus other outfits. Many soon-to-be-wed couples even come from abroad to have pictures taken that capture the romantic sentiments of two people in love. What makes Taiwan such a perfect place for wedding photography is not only the professionalism of local wedding photographers but also the stunning beauty of the island’s landscapes. In this issue’s Feature articles we show you some of the spots – in northern Taiwan and at scenic Sun Moon Lake in central Taiwan – where you can spend a most memorable and romantic time with your significant other and have romantic photos taken even if you don’t plan to marry anytime soon. If on a romantic holiday, you'll certainly want to take your time and travel about in leisurely fashion. Should your time in Taiwan be limited, however, and you want to take in more than just the city of Taipei (for example), there are numerous convenient options. With the modern, fast, and smooth High Speed Rail you might even visit the cities of Taipei and Kaohsiung in one day, as we show you in our New Perspectives article. Taiwan is a country where the motor scooter is ubiquitous, and while bicycle travel is more environmentally friendly and taking buses and trains may be safer and more relaxed, a scooter tour is an adventurous and eye-opening alternative for island exploration. In our Touched by Taiwan article you’ll see how it’s done. Even more exciting than hitting Taiwan’s roads on two wheels is rushing down a whitewater river on a raft. The best location to do so is the Xiuguluan River in Hualien County, and the best time to go is during the summer months. This is an exhilarating ride that is always safe and much fun. Find out more in our Events article. Traditional Chinese musical instruments and Western pop tunes might strike you as an impossible combination, but once you have seen a performance by local music group East Wing you will realize that the two were made for each other. The group offers something for young and old alike and is a great representative of Taiwan’s innovative and fast-developing music scene. Meet East Wing in our My Local Friends segment. Summer has arrived, and again the young and energetic are being drawn to beach and ocean. If you’d like to follow them, head to Fulong Beach on the northeast coast, where you’ll find fine stretches of white sand and plenty of beach action, most notably a popular annual rock festival. For more, see our Pop Culture article. On behalf of the Tourism Bureau, I wish you a fun-filled time in sunny Taiwan! Janice Seh-Jen Lai Director General Tourism Bureau, MOTC, R.O.C.
Travel in Taiwan May • June 2010
1
Publisher Janice Seh-Jen Lai Editing Consultants David W. J. Hsieh, Chao-Yen Wu Publishing Organization Tourism Bureau, Ministry of Transportation and Communications Address 9F, 290 Zhongxiao E. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei, 104, Taiwan Tel: 886-2-2717-3737 Fax: 886-2-2771-7036 E-mail: tbroc@tbroc.gov.tw Website: http://taiwan.net.tw Producer , Vision Int l Publ. Co., Ltd. Address Rm. 5, 10F, 2 Fuxing N. Rd., Taipei, 104 Taiwan Tel: 886-2-2711-5403 Fax: 886-2-2721-2790 E-mail: vision@tit.com.tw
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台 灣 觀 光 雙 月 刊 Travel in Taiwan Bimonthly May/ June Issue, 2010 http://www.tit.com.tw/vision/index.htm Copyright c 2010 Tourism Bureau. All rights reserved. Reproduction in any form without written permission is prohibited.
ISSN:18177964
GPN:2009305475
200 NTD
CONTENTS COVER STORY Taiwan Is for Lovers The scenic north coast is a great destination for romantic outings Photo by Jen-Guo Chen
MAY / JUNE 2010 FOOD
1 Publisher�s Note
4 Culture & Art
42 Eat Like a Local — Discovering the Authentic Treats of Lugang
6 Calendar of Events 8 What�s Happening in Taiwan
SHOPPING
FEATURE
46 One Town One Product — The Best Products of Taiwan from All Corners of the Island
10 Taiwan Is for Lovers — Romantic Getaways in Northern Taiwan 16 Water Fusing with Sky, Sun Mingling with Moon — The Perfect Destination for Lovers
NEW PERSPECTIVES
10
PLACES TO STAY 22 Great Sights at Sun Moon Lake — But Hotels So Great that Guests Might Want to Stay in Their Rooms
HOTEL INFORMATION
TOUCHED BY TAIWAN
54 Hotels of Taiwan
26 Taiwan’s Easy Rider Goes Into the Wild — Taking a Motor Scooter Down to the Sea and Up into the High Mountains
22
48 A Tale of 2 Cities (In 1 Day) — Riding the High Speed Rail against the Clock
MY LOCAL FRIENDS
31 Flying High — Creating a Unique Blend of ChineseClassical Music and Western Pop Tunes
EVENT 36 Cooling Off and Getting Wet — Rafting on the Xiuguluan River
in Hualien County
POP CULTURE
36
40 Off to the Beach and the Rocks — The Northeast Coast Offers Waves of Summertime Fun
48
Travel in Taiwan May • June 2010
3
CULTURE & ART
CULTURE & ART Taiwan has a very diverse cultural scene, with art venues ranging from international-caliber concert halls and theaters, where internationally-acclaimed stars regularly perform, to make-shift stages on temple plazas where you can witness Taiwanese opera. Among Taiwan’s museums are the world-famous National Palace Museum as well as many museums specializing in different art forms and aspects of Taiwanese culture. Here is a brief selection of upcoming happenings. For more infomation, please visit the websites of the listed venues. National Palace Museum
The Lost Frontier – Treaty Maps that Changed the Qing’s Northwestern Boundaries 失落的疆域 清季西北邊界變遷條約輿圖特展 February 10 ~ August 10 This exhibition gives interesting insight into how the border between China and Russia changed during the 19th century by showing numerous maps drawn during the late Qing Dynasty (1644~1911). These maps were classified “strictly confidential” by the Republic of China’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs until 2001, when the ministry entrusted its archive of historical documents to the National Palace Museum for safekeeping and digitization. The exhibition’s name, “The Lost Frontier,” indicates that the border changes were not to the benefit of China. In fact, about 500,000 square kilometers of land in the northwest were ceded to Russia as a result of various treaties between a weakening Chinese empire and an opportunistic Russia.
Taipei Arena
Memory of a Journey: Permanent Collection of TFAM 旅人‧記憶：北美館典藏作品展 March 6 ~ August 15 Works in the collection of the museum by local artists Huang Ming-chang, Tsai Ming-liang, Wang Ya-hui, and Chiu Chien-ren have been chosen for this exhibition. Stories of journeys are told in the 12 oil paintings by Huang (created from 1978-1983) and the five oil paintings by Qiu (2004), while Wang and Cai use media-installation art to convey their travel memories.
National Theater
Jose Carreras and Kiri Te Kanawa Taiwan Concert
Mulan – Ju Percussion Group 木蘭 – 擊樂劇場 May 21 ~ 23
卡列拉斯 卡娜娃 世紀演唱會 May 22 This is a rare opportunity for classical-music lovers in Taiwan to see two of the world’s most accomplished opera singers on the same stage. Carreras gained superstar status as one of the famous Three Tenors, along with Placido Domingo and Luciano Pavarotti, who gave concerts around the world from 1990 through 2003. In recent years he has shifted his repertoire more to the light classical genre, often recording easy-listening albums and performing together with artists from outside the classical-music world. Kiri Te Kanawa is one of the greatest opera singers of modern times and one of the most famous personalities of New Zealand. She now only rarely sings in operas, but still frequently performs in concerts and recitals.
4 May • June 2010
Taipei Fine Arts Museum
Travel in Taiwan
Established in 1986, Ju Percussion Group is Taiwan’s leading percussion ensemble. The group has 13 members, playing Western percussion instruments as well as Chinese gongs and drums and other traditional Asian instruments. Performing about 100 times a year in Taiwan and abroad, Ju Percussion has become well-known for its innovative ways of blending Eastern and Western as well as traditional and modern music. “Mulan” is yet another example of its innovation, the performance combining percussion music with Beijing Opera and tap dance.
Venues
Experimental Theater
Taipei International Convention Center（台北國際會議中心）
2010 International Theatre Festival Collection
Add: 1 Xinyi Rd., Sec. 5, Taipei City ( 台北市信義 路五段一 號 )
國際劇場藝術節 June 3 ~ 27
Taipei
This year, the biannual International Theatre Festival features four different performances by artists from Taiwan and abroad. Starting the festival, Dulcinea Langfelder from Canada presents a humorous, sensitive, and critical look behind the cloak of Cervantes' muse, Dulcinea del Toboso, entertaining and enlightening the audience. The curtain is next raised on Taiwan’s Mr. Wing Theatre Company, performing the play “In the Solitude of Cotton Fields” by French playwright and director Bernard-Marie Koltès. The Collectif Les Possedes from France then performs Oncle Vania, a play where the audience becomes part of the set (in French with Chinese subtitles). The final show of the festival is a Taiwan-France co-production which combines performance with visual art, including sculptures and paintings.
Taipei Zhongshan Hall Plaza （ 台北中山堂廣場 ）
Add: 98, Yanping S. Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市延平南 路 9 8 號 )
( 台北市中山北 路 3 段 181 號 )
Taipei International Convention Center
Tel: (02) 2595-7656 www.tfam.museum Nearest MRT Station: Yuanshan
（ 台北國際會議中心 ）
Add: 1, Xinyi Rd., Sec.5, Taipei City ( 台北市信義 路五段 1 號 )
Tel: (02) 2725-5200, ext. 3517, 3518 www.ticc.com.tw/ Nearest MRT Station: Taipei City Hall
National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall（ 國立中正紀念堂 ） Add: 21 Zhongshan S. Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市中山南 路 21 號 )
Tel: (02) 2343-1100~3 www.cksmh.gov.tw Nearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall
Add: 21-1 Zhongshan S. Rd., Taipei City
The Mentors of Chang Dai-Chien - Painting and Calligraphy of Zeng Xi and Li Rui-Qing 張大千的老師-曾熙、李瑞清書畫特展 April 10 ~ May 30
( 台北市中山南 路 21-1 號 )
Tel: (02) 3393-9888 www.ntch.edu.tw Nearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall
National Museum of History （ 國立歷史博物館 ）
( 台北市 南 海路 4 9 號 )
Tel: (02) 2361-0270 www.nmh.gov.tw Nearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall
National Palace Museum （ 國立故宮博物院 ）
Add: 221 Zhishan Rd., Sec. 2, Taipei City ( 台北市至 善路 2 段 2 21 號 )
Tel: (02) 2881-2021 www.npm.gov.tw Nearest MRT Station: Shilin
( 台北市 襄 陽 路二號 )
This is a retrospective exhibition of works by German-born American artist Josef Albers (1888~1976). On display are early paintings, glass art, photographs, furniture, and typeface designs from the artist’s Bauhaus period, and prints, formal studies, color research, and his best-known “Homage to the Square” paintings from the period after he moved to the United States. Apart from about 250 works from the Josef and Anni Albers Foundation, the exhibition also includes works by students of Albers on loan from the Bauhaus Dessau Foundation in Germany.
Tel: (02) 2552-3720 www.mocataipei.org.tw Nearest MRT Station: Zhongshan
Lin Liu-hsin Puppet Theatre Museum（ 林柳新紀念偶戲博物館 ） Add: 79 Xining N. Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市 西寧 北 路 7 9 號 )
Tel: (02) 2556-8909 www.taipeipuppet.com Nearest MRT Station: Shuanglian
Taichung Taichung Zhongshan Hall（ 台中中山堂） Add: 98 Xueshi Rd., Taichung City ( 台中市學士路 9 8 號 )
National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts（ 國立台灣美術館 ） Add: 2 Wuquan W. Rd., Sec. 1, Taichung City ( 台中市五權 西 路 一段 2 號 )
Tel: (04) 2372-3552 www.tmoa.gov.tw
Tainan
Add: 332 Zhonghua E. Rd., Sec. 3, Tainan City ( 台南 市中華東 路 3 段 332 號 )
Tel: (06) 269-2864 www.tmcc.gov.tw
Add: 2 Xiangyang Rd., Taipei City
極簡•大用 包浩斯巨匠亞伯斯 April 3 ~ August 1
( 台北市長 安 西 路 3 9 號 )
Tainan City Cultural Center
National Taiwan Museum
Josef Albers: Minimal Means, Maximum Effect
Add: 39 Chang-an W. Rd., Taipei City
（ 台南市立文化中心 ）
（ 國立臺灣博物館 ）
Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts
Museum of Contemporary Art Taipei（ 台北當代藝術館 ）
Tel: (04) 2230-3100 www.tccgc.gov.tw
Add: 49 Nanhai Rd., Taipei City
Ceng Xi (1861-1930) and Li Rui-qing (1867-1920) are virtually unknown in comparison to their famous pupil Chang Dai-chien, one of the best-known Chinese painters of the 20th century. Both were nevertheless two of the most important calligraphers of the late Qing Dynasty. To commemorate the 80th and 90th anniversaries of their respective deaths, the National Museum of History is showing a total of 77 pieces by the two master calligraphers.
Taipei Fine Arts Museum （ 台北市立美術館 ）
Add: 181 Zhongshan N. Rd., Sec. 3, Taipei City
Nearest MRT Station: Ximen
National Concert Hall（國家音樂聽）; National Theater （國家戲劇院 ）
National Museum of History
Tel: (02) 2725-5200 ext. 3000. 3151~52 www.ticc.com.tw Nearest MRT Station: Taipei City Hall
Tel: (02) 2382-2566 www.ntm.gov.tw Nearest MRT Station: NTU Hospital
Kaohsiung
Novel Hall（ 新舞臺 ）
Kaohsiung City Chungcheng Cultural Center（ 高雄市立中正文化中心）
Add: 3 Songshou Rd., Taipei City
Add: 67 Wufu 1st Rd., Kaohsiung City
( 台北市松 壽路 3 號 )
( 高 雄 市五福 一路 67 號 )
Tel: (02) 2722-4302 www.novelhall.org.tw Nearest MRT Station: Taipei City Hall
Tel: (07) 222-5136 ext. 8908, 8909, 8910 www.khcc.gov.tw (Chinese only) Nearest KMRT Station: Cultural Center
National Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall
Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts（ 高雄市立美術館 ）
（ 國立國父紀念館 ）
Add: 80 Meishuguan Rd., Kaohsiung City
Add: 505 Ren-ai Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City
( 高 雄 市美 術館 路 8 0 號 )
( 台北市仁 愛 路 四 段 5 0 5 號 )
Tel: (07) 555-0331 www.kmfa.gov.tw Nearest KMRT Station: Aozihdi Station
Tel: (02) 2758-8008 www.yatsen.gov.tw/english Nearest MRT Station: Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall
Kaohsiung Museum of History （ 高雄市立歷史博物館 ）
Taipei Arena（ 台北小巨蛋 ） Add: 2 Nanjing E. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City
Add: 272 Zhongzheng 4th Rd., Kaohsiung City
( 台北市 南 京 東 路 4 段 2 號 )
( 高 雄 市中正四 路 27 2 號 )
Tel: (02) 2577-3500 www.taipeiarena.com.tw Nearest MRT Station: Nanjing E. Rd.
Tel: (07) 531-2560 http://w5.kcg.gov.tw/khm/index.asp Nearest KMRT Station: City Council
Travel in Taiwan
May • June 2010
5
2010
CALENDAR OF EVENTS JUN 11 ~ JUN 13
Taipei Dragon Boat Festival (水岸台北端午嘉年華)
The highlight of the annual Taipei Dragon Boat Festival is the fiercely competitive dragon-boat races that take place on the Keelung River southeast of the Grand Hotel. Apart from watching the races, visitors can also learn about traditional arts and crafts and sample local delicacies at the riverside-park festival venue. Location: Dajia Riverside Park, Taipei City (台北市大佳河濱公園) Website: www.tms.gov.tw Tel: (02) 2570-2330
until
Hakka Tung Blossom Festival (客家桐花祭)
The annual Hakka Tung Blossom Festival is a celebration of the blooming tung trees and the rich culture of the Hakka people. During the blooming season, which lasts until late May, you can go on bloom-gazing hikes in the hills where tung trees thrive, and can learn about the culture of the Hakka people via numerous festival activities staged in many Hakka communities around the island.
MAY 31
Locations: Cities and counties around Taiwan Website: tung.hakka.gov.tw Tel: (02) 8789-4567
until
Pingtung Bluefin Tuna Cultural Festival ( 屏東黑鮪魚文化觀光季)
JUL 4
Donggang, about half an hour by car south of Kaohsiung City, is a fishing harbor with the bluefin tuna fishing industry at its heart. This festival introduces visitors to bluefin tuna, fresh seafood cuisine, and the scenic tourist attractions of the area, including the tiny coral island of Xiaoliuqiu. A special bus shuttles between Zuoying – Kaohsiung’s High Speed Rail station – and Donggang, during the festival, making getting there and back very convenient. Locations: Donggang and Xiaoliuqiu, Pingtung County (屏東縣東港 小琉球) Website: www.pthg.gov.tw Tel: (08) 732-0415 ext. 3349
JUL 9 ~ JUL 11
Hohaiyan Rock Festival (貢寮國際海洋音樂祭) Once a year Fulong Beach on the northeast coast is the venue for a great open-air music festival. The festival attracts thousands of revelers to the fine sand beach to listen to local rock bands and play by and in the water.
Location: Fulong Beach, Gongliao Township, Taipei County (台北縣貢寮鄉福隆海水浴場) Website: www.necoast-nsa.gov.tw Tel: (02) 2499-1115
JUN 16 ~ JUL 12
Taipei Film Festival (台北電影節)
The Taipei Film Festival was first staged in 1998 and has since become a key annual event for Taiwan's film industry. In its City Vision section, the festival this year screens films focusing on Rio de Janeiro. The festival is also a great opportunity to watch films by established and talented young Chinese filmmakers. Locations: Zhongshan Hall, The Red House, Shin Kong Cineplex, and Movie Theme Park in Taipei (台北市中山堂 西門紅樓 新光影城及電影主題公園) Website: www.taipeiff.tw Tel: (02) 2528-9580 ext. 164
JUN 1 ~ JUN 30
Baihe Lotus Flower Festival (白河蓮花節)
Baihe Township in Tainan County is Taiwan’s lotus-flower capital. During the summer when this beautiful flower is in bloom, the local government stages a festival with numerous activities centered on the flower. This is a great time to visit rural Tainan! Location: Baihe Township, Tainan County (台南縣白河鎮) Website: tour.tainan.gov.tw Tel: (06) 632-2231
MayJuneJuly
until MAY 29
Penghu Fireworks Festival (澎湖海上花火節)
During the summer season, the islands of Penghu, situated in the Taiwan Strait west of the Taiwan mainland, draw large numbers of tourists who come to enjoy the sun, the fine-sand beaches, the old fishing villages, and the unique local cuisine. The annual fireworks festival illuminates night sky and sea in various spots around the archipelago with dazzling spectacles of light, presenting visitors with yet another highlight to add to the many other attractions on these windswept islands. Location: Xiyu Township, Penghu County (西嶼鄉澎湖縣) Website: www.penghu.gov.tw Tel: (07) 667-4820
until
Dalongdong Baoan Temple Baosheng Cultural Festival (大龍峒保安宮保生文化祭)
JUN 13
Baoan Temple is one of the oldest, finest, and bestpreserved temples in Taipei. During the annual celebration of the temple’s main deity, Baosheng Dadi (also known as the God of Medicine), the temple comes alive with numerous activities, including processions, martial-arts fighting demonstrations, and walks by devotees across burning coals. Location: Dalongdong Baoan Temple, Taipei City (台北市大龍峒保安宮) Website: www.baoan.org.tw Tel: (02) 2595-1676
JUN 12
Whitewater Rafting on Xiuguluan River (秀姑巒溪泛舟觀光活動)
During the peak season for whitewater rafting on the Xiuguluan River in Hualien County, the East Coast National Scenic Area administration organizes a variety of activities centered on rafting, including a rafting race with hundreds of participants from Taiwan and abroad. Location: Rafting Center, Ruisui Township, Hualien County (花蓮縣瑞穗鄉泛舟中心) Website: www.eastcoast-nsa.gov.tw Tel: (089) 841-520
JUN 1 ~ JUN 5
Computex Taipei (台北國際電腦展)
Asia's largest and one of the world’s major computer exhibitions in the world, Computex Taipei each year showcases the latest products of the computer industry. There will be more than 1,700 exhibitors at 4,800 booths and about 120,000 visitors, including 35,000 buyers from around the world, are expected to come. If you want to know what’s going on in the computer world, this is the place to be. Location: Taipei World Trade Center Exhibition Hall 1 & 3, Nangang Exhibition Hall, Taipei International Convention Center Website: www.computex.biz, www.computextaipei.com.tw Tel: TCA (02) 2577-4249, TAITRA (02) 2725-5200
until
Stepping Out with Alishan’s Fireflies (阿里山與螢共舞活動)
MAY 31
Alishan in southern Taiwan’s Chiayi County is not only famous for its alpine forest railway and its scenic sunrises, but also for its beautiful and pristine natural environment. One symbol of Alishan’s rich ecology is the many fireflies that can be seen flying around in the evening. During the early summer, nature lovers can choose from a variety of nature tours, including trips to Alishan’s major firefly areas combined with accommodation in local homestays. Location: Greater Alishan Area, Chiayi County (嘉義縣大阿里山地區) Website: 2010ali-firefly.com.tw Tel: (05) 259-3900
MAY 15 ~ JUN 13
Fulong Sand Sculpture Festival (福隆沙雕藝術季)
During the height of the summer season at one of northern Taiwan’s most popular beaches, Fulong, sand sculptors go to work, creating amazing works of art out of sand and water. Skilled artists from Taiwan and abroad create sculptures depicting the world’s famous landmarks. By participating in the DIY activities, aspiring sand-castle architects are introduced to the basics of sand sculpturing, and there are also many other beach activities to ensure a great time by the sea. Location: Fulong Beach, Gongliao Township, Taipei County (台北縣貢寮 鄉福隆海水浴場) Website:www.necoast-nsa.gov.tw Tel: (02) 2499-1115
TRAVEL NEWS
WHAT’S HAPPENING in
TAIWAN
“Legend of the Seas” Visits Kaohsiung Part of Royal Caribbean International’s wide-ranging fleet of cruise liners, the 70,000-ton “Legend of the Seas,” based in Asia for the year 2010, docked at Kaohsiung Harbor for the first time ever on February 6 this year. More than 1,200 passengers from around the world had the chance for a brief exploration of southern Taiwan’s big harbor city. The inclusion of Kaohsiung as a port of call on the cruise ship’s route is yet another demonstration that the city’s potential as a tourist destination is increasingly being recognized around the world.
Rare Bird Seen on the North Coast Bird watchers on Taiwan’s north coast had quite a treat this March. A red-throated loon (gavial stellata) graced the beach at Wanli, a few miles northwest of Keelung Harbor. This migratory bird, the smallest and lightest of the loon family, is usually seen far to the north in arctic regions, and even during its annual migrations seldom travels south of latitude 30 degrees north (northern Taiwan is at latitude 25 degrees north). This was the first time in 40 years that a red-throated loon has been seen in Taiwan. While this migratory bird is a rare guest, there is no shortage of other migrating bird species using the north coast of Taiwan as a stopover point during their annual migrations. The best times to spot these feathered friends at places like Wanli is from September to November and from March to May.
8 May • June 2010
Travel in Taiwan
Last year, the Tourism Bureau invited teams from around the world to take part in the “Best Trip in the World” competition, during which teams had to come up with the best possible itinerary for traveling around Taiwan. After being selected as one of the 52 teams (out of more than 1,100) with the best itineraries, team Bak Kut Teh from Malaysia, like the other selected teams, went on a 4-day trip of Taiwan and made a video about it. The members’ trip was then selected by a jury as the best of all trips made, and the twoman team, consisting of Ng Boon Ming and Liew Kai Yit, won a one-month tour of Taiwan worth NT$1 million. After careful planning, this February the two travel-happy Malaysians came back to tour the island on a much longer adventure they described as a oncein-a-lifetime journey. It covered the best places and activities Taiwan offers, including side trips to the high mountains and the offshore islands. The two travelers were especially impressed by the fascinating mix of religious beliefs and practices they witnessed at local temples, and were touched by the beautiful sight of thousands of sky lanterns ascending into the night sky during the annual Pingxi International Sky Lantern Festival. For more about Bak Kut Teh’s and the other teams’ trips in Taiwan, visit www.taiwanbesttrip.net.
Photos / Wen-Jen Fan, Tourism Bureau, First International Tourist Hotel,Siraya National Scenic Area
“Best Trip in the World” Winners Tour Taiwan Again
Scenery and Art at Siraya Located in Tainan County in southwestern Taiwan, and established in 2005, the Siraya National Scenic Area is Taiwan’s 13th national scenic area. The area is known for its numerous water reservoirs, hot springs, geological sites, and indigenous people’s culture. From March 18 through June 16, finger oil-painting artist Iris Scott from Seattle will show paintings depicting this beautiful part of Taiwan in a special exhibition at the scenic area’s Meiling Visitor Center (3-10 Xiangjiaoshan, Wanqiu Village, Nanxi Township, Tainan County). For more information about the scenic area, visit www.siraya-nsa.gov.tw.
Puli Township Tourist Bus Puli, located in central Taiwan’s Nantou County, is a popular destination for domestic and foreign tourists alike. In order to make it easier for self-help travelers to get around and conveniently visit places of interest, the local government has established a special tourist-bus service. At present there are two routes to choose from. Buses on the Blue Line make stops at the Chung Tai Chan Monastery, Flower Logistics Center, Puli Winery, and Taiwan Geographic Center Marker, among others spots, while buses on the Green Line stop at Taomi Ecological Village, Musheng Insect Museum, Guangsing Handmade Paper Mill, and other attractions. Tickets allowing visitors to use the service for the whole day are priced just NT$80. The service is to be expanded further in the future, connecting with the Sun Moon Lake Ropeway and the bus service circling Sun Moon Lake.
First International Tourist Hotel in Hsinchu County Hsinchu County has its first international tourist hotel! The Hsinchu Sheraton was officially opened this April in Zhubei City (265 Guangming 6th Rd., Dong Sec. 1), northeast of Hsinchu City. The hotel boasts 386 guestrooms, including 33 suites, and features all the facilities you would expect from a top tourist hotel, including fine-cuisine restaurants, a café and bar, banquet halls and conference facilities, as well as a gym, and swimming pool. The hotel, the second under the Sheraton brand in Taiwan, is an excellent new accommodation choice for leisure and business travelers visiting the Hsinchu area.
Farm Experience in Tainan County Operated by the Tainan County Farmers’ Association, the 120-hectare Tsou-Ma-Lai Farm is one of the most popular and longest-established recreational farms in southern Taiwan. Earlier this year the farm expanded its capacity with the opening of the new Orchid Building, adding more than 100 guestrooms. The farm has something for the whole family, including educational programs, fun activities, stays in rustic wooden guestrooms, and feasting on local produce. For more info, visit www.farm.com.tw.
Travel in Taiwan
May • June 2010
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FEATURE
10 May • June 2010
Ferris wheel at Miramar Entertainment Park
Travel in Taiwan
Taiwan Is for
LOVERS Romantic Getaways in Northern Taiwan
By Eric Lambert
Whether you're celebrating your 25th wedding anniversary, honeymooning, or going out on a first date, romance is a part of every healthy relationship. Expressed in an infinite number of ways, romance in Taiwan for some might be candlelight dinners and sunsets by the sea. For others, perhaps stargazing atop a mountain or bathing in a hot spring is preferred. Whatever your romantic dreams may be, there are numerous special spots in northern Taiwan bound to fulfill them. Here is a peek at some of the area's best romantic getaways.
Photo / Ellen Yeh
YANGMINGSHAN On the north side of Taipei City lies the 110-square-kilometer Yangmingshan National Park. This area was the site of volcanic activity ages ago, but is now characterized by mountains of tall, waving grasses interspersed with vibrant flora and fauna that take turns bringing bright new colors with each season. Hiking hills and valleys, bathing in hot springs, and picnicking in the colorful meadows and gardens are all popular activities in the park. The park is perhaps most vibrant, however, during the Yangmingshan Flower Festival. Each year from February through March over 2,000 cherry trees blossom, and countless azaleas and rhododendrons bloom, in an impressive Yangmingshan welcome to spring. The best area of the park to view the flowers is landscaped Yangming Park, where several well-tended gardens make a perfect place to take a romantic walk or have a picnic among the blossoms. During the festival be sure to visit the
popular Flower Clock here, a beautiful arrangement of flowers which spans seven meters and displays the time. Visiting the national park in other seasons can be just as rewarding. Home to a great diversity of plants, flowers of some type can be seen in bloom during any visit, and in the fall red-tasseled silvergrass carpets the mountainsides.
Several well-tended gardens at Yangming Park make a perfect place to take a romantic walk or have a picnic among the blossoms The Butterfly Corridor in the Erziping recreation area is an easy, shaded trail visited by members of many butterfly species, as well as human couples, on hot summer days. More adventurous romantics can try the onehour hike to the top of Mt. Qixing, the highest peak of Yangmingshan, for a sunset and some stargazing. It starts near the Xiaoyoukeng fumarole. Be
sure it's a clear day, and don't forget a flashlight. Admission to Yangmingshan National Park is free. There are numerous public bus routes that serve the area; details can be found on the park's website (www.ymsnp. gov.tw). Perhaps the best way to visit Yangmingshan by public transport is to take the MRT to Jiantan Station, then take bus 260 or R5 up to the Yangmingshan terminal by Yangming Park and transfer to small bus 108, which serves most of the interesting spots in the area. Taking a taxi from MRT Xinbeitou or Shilin stations is also a good option, which will allow you to check out some other nice places that are not on the bus routes. A number of cozy cafés are situated in the southern part of the park in the Pingdengli area. The small cafés are uniquely decorated, creating picturesque scenes. A case in point is the Montmartre Café, originally used as a film set and later transformed by photographer Alex Lai into a quaint Travel in Taiwan
May • June 2010 11
FEATURE
and homey cafe. Sitting on a lush hillside next to a mountain stream, Montmartre Café is popular not only for its food and drinks, but also as a set for wedding photos. Finding other cafés in the area is not a problem, as brown signs on the Jingshan Road point you in the direction of many good establishments. Montmartre Café 蒙馬特影像咖啡館 Add: 13, Lane 131, Jingshan Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市菁山路 131 巷 13 號 ) Tel: (02) 2862-4347
North Coast If sandy beaches, coastal trails, and sunsets on the boardwalk fit your romantic dreams, a trip to the north coast is a must. Between the towns of Jinshan on the east and Danshui on the west, the north coast meanders along, serving up scenic ocean views and countless opportunities for couples to enjoy time together. Moreover, easy access from Taipei means a trip to the north coast can be done in a day or enjoyed over a weekend. Shitoushan Park, on the outskirts of 12 May • June 2010
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Baishawan or “White Sand Bay.” The the coastal hot-spring town of Jinshan, is a great place to walk, picnic, and even sandy stretch of beach is great for swimming and spending a summer day, soak in some hot springs. Romantic while moonlit walks on the shore with walks can be taken on the paved trails someone special can be priceless. Just that lead to the top of the 70-meterhigh Shitou Mountain. Along the shady northwest of the beach is a wonderful trail that leads paths, you’ll The sandy stretch of Baishawan out to the be treated to beach is great for swimming and Linshanbi cape. breathtaking views of the spending a summer day, while The cape is the result of surrounding moonlit walks on the shore with lava flows from coast and the romantically someone special can be priceless Yangmingshan's volcanic period, symbolic from two million to about 750,000 years Twin Candlestick Islets rock formation sitting 500 meters out to sea. In addition, ago, and has evolved into a fascinating the park has great gardens for picnicking landscape with spectacular views. Near as well as free-access hot-springs pools to Baishawan along the coastal highway are numerous ocean-view cafés. dip your feet or bathe in. Following the coast west from Jinshan While each has an individual theme, will soon bring you to the Shimen Arch, an underlying European influence is prevalent. Mediterranean-style color an interesting rock arch that attracts schemes and Italian and Spanish names many passing by. The peculiar arch is positioned as if it were a gate to the sea, adorn the photogenic buildings, inviting couples to relax inside or on a shady and is a popular spot for going on short deck overlooking the ocean. walks and taking photos. Featuring a lush garden entrance, At the northern tip of Taiwan, the Summertime Café offers nestled between Linshanbi and Fugui comfortable tables and a summerCape, is one of the area's top beaches,
Photos / Jen-Guo Chen, Vision Int'l, Ellen Yeh
Walking on the fine sand beach of Baishawan
cottage atmosphere. It has a variety of interesting hot-pot flavors in addition to many choices of tea, coffee, and fruit shakes. With more than a dozen cafés along this 500-meter stretch of road, choosing one that’s right for you can be a fun task. Summertime Café 那年夏天 Add: 45-13 Beishizi, Houcuo Village, Sanzhi Township, Taipei County ( 台北縣 三芝鄉後厝村北勢子 45-13 號 ) Tel: (02) 2636-6717
Danshui Since development began less than a decade ago, Fisherman’s Wharf in the port town of Danshui has become a romantic hotspot for folks in the Taipei area. Located at the mouth of the Danshui River, the little fishing harbor here has earned a reputation for slow walks and beautiful sunsets. Couples stroll hand in hand over Lovers’ Bridge, which opened on Valentine’s Day in 2003 and spans the harbor. A lovely raised boardwalk at the end of the bridge provides great views of the sun setting over the Taiwan Strait as well as of Lovers’ Bridge lit up at night. On the main level of the boardwalk are a number of cafés and restaurants featuring live music and excellent views of river and sea. Arriving at or departing from the Fisherman’s Wharf can be a fun adventure on the Blue Highway, the name for Danshui River’s ferry boats. A NT$50 ticket will ferry you between three destinations, Danshui, Fisherman’s Wharf, and Bali, on the opposite side of the river from Danshui. The trip takes about 30 minutes and boats leave about every 20 minutes. Perhaps the most accessible romantic destination on the north coast is the old section of Danshui, accessed via the northernmost stop of the MRT Danshui Line, with Danshui Old Street at its core. A charming riverside boardwalk comes to life during weekend and holidays as vendors sell local snacks and run carnival games where
Clockwise from top left: At the Summertime Cafe in Sanzhi; Shimen Arch at Jinshan; Danshui River in the evening
A lovely raised boardwalk provides great views of the sun setting over the Taiwan Strait as well as of Lovers’ Bridge lit up at night stuffed animals can be won. During the daytime, many couples rent bikes and explore the Danshui estuary along the town’s popular riverside bike path. Many of the town’s attractions can be easily reached by bicycle, such as Danshui Old Street, and Fort San Domingo as well as numerous shops, cafés, and restaurants. Getting around the north coast can be done by taxi or bus. Both Danshui and the city of Keelung are easily reached from Taipei by MRT or train respectively, and buses head out along the north coast from each. Stop in at the tourist information center at MRT Danshui Station or near Keelung’s railway station for more information.
Beitou What better way to stoke your passions than with a private hot-spring bath and gourmet dinner? Bordering the southwestern part of Yangmingshan National Park, Taipei City's Beitou District is renowned for its classy hotspring hotels and lush green hills. Most of the hot-spring hotels are located just a short walk from MRT Xinbeitou Station, and a few of these cater especially to couples. Combining modern design, luxurious comforts, and fine dining, the stylish Double One Hotel plans to contend with Taipei's most romantic hotels when it opens in the early summer of 2010. Part of the local Leader Hotel group, the Double One is to place emphasis on providing superlative service and facilities for that perfect evening with someone special. Each of the 23 rooms will include a private hot-spring tub, a steam room, Travel in Taiwan
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Above: Lovers' Bridge at Danshui's Fisherman's Wharf is a popular spot for couples who come to view the scenic sunsets
Photos / Steve Chang;Wen-Jen Fan;Vision Int'l
Below: In Yangmingshan's Pingdengli area, there are a number of cozy cafés, ideal for spending a quiet evening
March • June • April2010 2010 Travel Travel in in Taiwan Taiwan 14 May
Photos / Jen-Guo Chen, Vision Int'l, Ellen Yeh
a flat-screen swivel TV, and a range of other amenities. In the top-level rooms bathrooms are also to come equipped with a sauna, with the hot-spring tub located on a private veranda overlooking the foothills of Yangmingshan. Other rooms will be fitted with refreshing outdoor showers, and some will have additional space for in-room spa treatments. Service is meant to be of the upmost importance at the Double One Hotel, letting you and your loved one focus on each other. For one thing, all meals can be served in your room, making for the most intimate type of romantic dinner and movie date. In addition, spa treatments can be scheduled in your room or the dedicated spa rooms. Prices will start at around NT$6,000 per night, which will include a 30-minute spa massage and breakfast. Rooms will also be available for 90-minute periods with afternoon tea for about NT$1,700. Double One Hotel 倆人旅店 Add: 11 Youya Rd., Beitou District, Taipei City ( 台北市北投區幽雅路 11 號 ) Tel: (02) 2897-3611 Veering from both the traditional Japanese-style hotels and the sleek modern design seen in the Double One, the Seasons Hotel is decorated like an 18th-century European palace. Throughout the hotel crystal chandeliers
hang from the ceilings, wood and gold accents grace the walls, and beautiful polished marble is used. This recent addition to Beitou's long list of outstanding hot-spring hotels boasts 30 rooms with beds and 31 private bathing rooms. All of the elegantly decorated rooms feature a marvelous marble tub for bathing, a TV, and a small sofa. A 90-minute stay with afternoon tea costs NT$1,700 on the weekends, while a weekend overnight stay with a kaiseki dinner and breakfast goes for NT$6,300. The house specialty at the Seasons Hotel restaurant is a ten-course kaiseki meal. The artfully presented dishes are served in traditional order and feature plenty of seafood. The hotel restaurant also offers Taiwanese food and a 24hour beverage counter with juice, coffee, and tea free for guests. After enjoying dinner, don’t forget to take the elevator to the eighth floor to scope out the splendid rooftop views. Seasons Hotel 四季飯店 - 北投溫泉館 Add: 26 Zhongshan Rd., Beitou District, Taipei City ( 台北市北投區中山路 26 號 ) Tel: (02) 2555-4288
Downtown Taipei If you simply haven't got the time to get out of the city proper but still want to add some romance to your relationship, there are many couples activities to do right in central Taipei. Catch a movie in the city’s most luxurious and cozy theater, the Ta Chien Cinema in the Westin Taipei hotel. Snuggle up on a plush loveseat and order food and drinks from a café-style menu as you watch the latest romantic films with your date. Ta Chien Cinema 大千電影院 Add: 133 Nanjing E. Rd., Sec. 3, Taipei City (inside Westin Taipei hotel) ( 台北市南京東路三段 133 號 ) Tel: (02) 8770-6555 Website: www.westin.com.tw Looking for an after-dinner plan? Take a ride on the exciting Ferris wheel at
Miramar Entertainment Park in the Dazhi area. This huge wheel measures 70 meters in diameter and ensures 17 minutes of quality time – a single turn – with your partner as you gaze upon the Taipei skyline. Miramar Entertainment Park 美麗華百樂園
Add: 20 Jingye 3rd Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市敬業三路 20 號 ) Website: www.miramar.com.tw If 70 meters doesn't get you high enough, opt for an ascent of the tallest building in Taiwan, Taipei 101. Taking in a sunset from the observatory on the 89th floor is a thrill, followed by the show of lights as the city switches on for the night. A pair of restaurants located on the 85th floor provide an excellent dining option. So the next time you’re looking for a way to make that date extra special, rest assured that romance does indeed await you in northern Taiwan.
ENGLISH & CHINESE Baishawan Bali Beitou Blue Highway Butterfly Corridor Danshui Danshui Old Street Danshui River Erziping Fisherman's Wharf Flower Clock Fort San Domingo Fugui Cape Jinshan Jingshan Road Linshanbi Lovers' Bridge Mt. Qixing Pingdengli Shimen Arch Shitoushan Park Twin Candlestick Islets Yangming Park Yangmingshan Flower Festival Yangmingshan National Park Xiaoyoukeng
Travel in Taiwan
白沙灣 八里 北投 藍色公路 蝴蝶走廊 淡水 淡水老街 淡水河 二子坪 漁人碼頭 花鐘 紅毛城 富貴角 金山 菁山路 麟山鼻 情人橋 七星山 平等里 石門洞 獅頭山公園 燭台雙嶼 陽明公園 陽明山花季 陽明山國家公園 小油坑
May • June 2010 15
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16 May • June 2010
With its splendid scenic views, Sun Moon Lake is made for romance
Travel in Taiwan
Water Fusing with Sky, Sun Mingling with Moon The Perfect Destination for Lovers By Mark Caltonhill
Some people are naturally romantic. They do the right thing at every occasion and in whatever place, they say the right things, they cook the perfect meals. Others, perhaps the majority, need a little help. This often involves travel: to New Orleans to listen to a jazz band, perhaps, or Paris for a candlelight dinner beside the Seine at sunset, or to the Arctic to drink an ice-cold vodka beneath the aurora borealis.
Photo / Taiwan Tourism Bureau
S
outhern Taiwan has Kaohsiung’s honeymooners, or that “Sun” and Love River, while in Taipei it “Moon” are the yang and yin of boy-girl is common for lovers to ride love in Chinese symbolism. Or perhaps the giant Ferris wheel at Miramar it is just the quiet, the stillness, and the Entertainment Park to take in the night wonderful views across the lake that scenery. But for almost half a century, make this a special place for all lovers. the nation’s love capital – as well as the island’s geographic center – has Perhaps it is just the quiet, the been Sun Moon Lake in Nantou stillness, and the wonderful County. It was here in the summers of views across the lake that make the 1960s and early 1970s that it a special place for all lovers President Chiang Kai-shek brought his wife Soong Mei-ling to relax and avoid the heat of the city, and it was For thousands of years before the here that honeymooning couples came arrival of Han Chinese from across the in increasing numbers once major roads Taiwan Strait, the island was exclusively were completed around the same time. home to numerous ethnic groups now Perhaps it was the “Moon” part subsumed under the term “aborigine,” in the lake’s name that attracted each with its own language and culture.
One feature they shared, however, and a feature that set them apart from the Chinese immigrants, was that they practiced love marriages rather than arranged marriages. A visit to the Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village, not far from the lake’s eastern shore, is therefore a good option on any lovers’ trip. Indeed, as well as information on traditional aboriginal marriage customs in the displays on cultures of ten of the island’s ethnicities, there is also a wedding ceremony of the Bunun Tribe included with the more usual song-anddance performance at the theme park’s Naruwan Theater. The marriage ritual, in which the groom swings his bride on the end of a five-meter rope, is the highlight of the show. The show lasts Travel in Taiwan
May • June 2010 17
Sun Moon Lake is often shrouded in mist
FEATURE
the best part of an hour, while a visit to the village could last all day. One of Taiwan’s earliest theme parks, the Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village has gradually expanded over the last three decades from a museumlike presentation of aboriginal culture to include DIY arts and crafts – boys can show off their bow-and-arrow hunting skills, girls can make indigenous-style pottery – a fun-fair arcade for school children, water and “space” rides for families, and a European-style chateau where young couples like to photograph themselves among the ornate gardens and ride the miniature train. Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village 九族文化村
Add: 45 Jintian Lane, Dalin Village, Yuchi Township, Nantou County ( 南投縣魚池鄉大林村金天巷 45 號 ) Tel: (049) 289-536 www.nine.com.tw In fact, following construction last year of a cable car to take visitors between the park and Sun Moon Lake (the NT$700 entrance ticket includes two rides on the “ropeway”), 18 May • June 2010
Travel in Taiwan
the romantic experience begins even earlier. Many people travel to Taiwan’s central area simply to see the lake from this new slowly moving vantage point (NT$300 without entrance to the park). The gondolas hoist passengers gently upward, and on misty days they can experience the enchanting “sea of clouds” effect, looking down on the truly heart-touching sight of lake, clouds, and mountains in a triple layer. They then disappear over a ridge and swing low over the trees of a “hidden valley,” allowing imaginations of what life was like here before the access roads brought development just a few decades ago. And for those with a fear of heights there is still the lake. Despite Taiwan being an island and nowhere being very far from the sea, opportunities to take a boat trip are actually not so common. Ironically, therefore, this part of Nantou – the only county lacking a coastline – offers a chance to make up for that shortfall. The best way to leave the crowds behind, to spend time alone with one’s true love, is to hire a boat. For the wealthy, this could mean a fancy yacht or speedboat, but for those of
more limited means, rowing boats from beyond the car park at the village of Shuishe at NT$200 per hour will do just fine. For those of an even more frugal disposition, bus boats ply the waters from dawn till dusk. Many visitors buy a day ticket to make multiple journeys between points of interest around the lake. For those making only one trip, however, the most popular is from Shuishe past the tip of Lalu Island, passing by modern-day versions of the old “four-handed hanging net” boats on which early Han Chinese immigrants not only fished but also lived and raised their families, to the Xuanguang Temple pier. Here, for just NT$10, they can eat an Assam tea-flavored egg marinated with mushrooms (don’t ask why, just do it – apparently around 6,000 are sold each day), then climb the short distance to the temple dedicated to Tripitaka, the Chinese monk whose “Journey to the West” has appeared in books and, in modern times, on televisions around the world. More popular with lovers, however, are the Jesus Church built by late President Chiang for his private use and
Photos / Wen-Jen Fan, Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village, Vision Int'l
the Longfeng Temple (“Dragon and Phoenix Palace”), because of the small shrine next to it dedicated to the Old Man under the Moon. According to Chinese mythology, his job is to identify future couples at birth and connect them with invisible red string so they are eventually brought together. Perhaps having beseeched him individually with prayers at a temple in Taipei or elsewhere, newly found lovers come here together to offer their thanks and reward him with incense, fruit, and other goodies. Food, like travel, is an integral part of romance, and Sun Moon Lake has plenty to offer. Aboriginal fare such as slate-grilled wild boar, rice cooked in bamboo tubes, and millet wine is not limited to the nearby culture-village theme park. Indeed, following the damming of the lake and the raising of its waters by 20 meters during the Japanese occupation (1895-1945), the scattered members of the Thao Tribe, with a population today measured in the hundreds, were relocated to the village of Ita Thao on the southern shore. This is a good place to eat and sleep, and also the best place for aboriginal souvenirs such as clothing and woodcarvings. Elsewhere, freshwater shrimp and fish are on most menus, especially the “president fish,” so nicknamed because it was beloved by President Chiang. Cheap eats are found in Ita Thao and Shuishe; couples and small groups may partake of the mid-price “x-dishes-plus-soup,” the number of dishes depending on the size of their party. But for the best eats, as elsewhere in Taiwan, everyone heads to one of the top-quality hotels. Actually, the hotels here offer something of inestimable value that those elsewhere cannot: magnificent views across Sun Moon Lake. No, not “magnificent” – the views are “mindblowing.” (Guys, picture this. Your beloved has just enjoyed a forkful of delicately simmered president fish, or steak, or vegetarian roll, or whatever, her eyes drift upwards across Taiwan’s
The best way to leave the crowds behind, to spend time alone with one’s true love, is to hire a boat
Clockwise from top left: The Sun Moon Lake Ropeway; auspicious "making a wish" wind bells sold near the lake; couples can enjoy their time at Sun Moon Lake even on a rainy day
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Above: Sun Moon Lake in the evening. The lake offers marvelous scenery at any time of the year. Below: The "Love Travel" offer of The Lalu includes a candle light dinner in the privacy of your own room.
20 May • June 2010
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largest body of mountain water now glowing red under the setting sun, past Lalu Island to Cien Pagoda. You, of course, sit with your back to the floorto-ceiling windows, you cough, she looks into your eyes, you pull out the ring and say.…) After dinner (and after she has replied), take a stroll along one of the numerous lakeside paths and gaze up at the moon – the yin to offset the daytime yang – and innumerable stars. Chances are the sky will be clearer than anything seen back in the city. One particularly enchanting vantage point is the openair rooftop bar of the Fleur de Chine hotel, especially when the mid-summer fireworks displays light up the lake. In the spirit of romance, a number of the area’s top hotels offer special packages for lovers. The Fleur de Chine, for example, welcomes couples with roses, chocolates, and a free bottle of red wine, and provides breakfast in-room for those desirous of no one else’s company. Similarly, The Lalu hotel on the Hanbi Peninsula – which shares the same view of the lake that Chiang and Soong enjoyed half a century ago – has a “Love Travel” deal, with roses, candles, and waiters bringing dinner dish by dish to one’s room. (For more info on accommodation at Sun Moon Lake, see article on pages 22~25.)
For the more adventurous, for those who have helped themselves too liberally at breakfast, or simply for those who wish to take the path less taken, other trails lead up into the surrounding hills. One relatively short route, ascending from the road between Shuishe and the Fleur de Chine, leads up to Maolan Mountain. It was here that the Japanese established tea plantations in the 1920s using seedlings brought in from India. It is because of this, and its suitably
Photos / Wen-Jen Fan; Taiwan Tourism Bureau
Take a stroll along one of the numerous lakeside paths and gaze up at the moon and innumerable stars. Chances are the sky will be clearer than anything seen back in the city After a hearty breakfast – the hotels’ buffets are popular with non-guests as well as residents – further exploration, by foot or by bike, of the local trails can continue. These are being steadily extended – the ultimate plan is to circle the lake – and the visitor center in Shuishe can provide details and maps reflecting the current situation, as well as hints as to the most romantic spots. Best of all, for those lucky enough to visit in the early spring, are the trails enveloped in blossoming cherry trees.
moist climate, that Sun Moon Lake is today still known for its Assam black teas rather than the oolong teas for which Taiwan is primarily famed. Depending on the season visitors can watch the leaves being hand-picked in the fields and processed in family-run factories, and year-round can sample the produce in teahouses and purchase souvenirs and gift boxes. Due to their liking for moist conditions and large day-night temperature variation, mushrooms also
grow well at this altitude, and as with tea the dried version makes a good gift for friends back in the city. Food and handicraft shops are everywhere – the major hotels even sell self-designed branded goods – so you don’t have to steal a towel or teacup to get a souvenir – and there is an OTOP (One Town One Product) store near the bus stop in Shuishe for last-minute purchases. At around 760 meters above sea level, Sun Moon Lake is not as remote as some parts of Taiwan. Indeed, it is less than an hour by bus or taxi from Taichung’s railway and high-speed rail stations. Most visitors either drive here or, since it is barely three hours from Taipei, take a direct bus. This is not as arduous a journey as it was decades ago when the vehicle-access road was first built: with around three times the legroom of an economy-class airplane seat, no blaring television, and one’s loved one in the next seat, it is but the final leg of an unforgettable trip to Taiwan’s love capital.
ENGLISH & CHINESE Bunun Tribe Chiang Kai-shek Cien Pagoda "four-handed hanging net" Ita Thao Lalu Island Longfeng Temple Maolan Mountain Nantou County Naruwan Theater Old Man under the Moon "president fish" Shuishe Soong Mei-ling Sun Moon Lake Thao Tribe Xuanguang Temple
布農族
yang yin
陽
Travel in Taiwan
蔣介石 慈恩塔 四手吊網 伊達邵 拉魯島 龍鳳宮 貓囒山 南投縣 娜魯灣劇場 月下老人 總統魚 水社 宋美齡 日月潭 邵族 玄光寺 陰
May • June 2010 21
PLACES TO STAY Fleur de Chine
There’s a joke currently popular at Sun Moon Lake to the effect that you can get a room for a thousand dollars a night. Should a visitor ask “Is that NT$1,000 or US$1,000?”, the local person will reply “Yes.” This is not strictly true – yet – because while there This page: La Casa are rooms in homestays (minsu) available at around NT$1,000, the Wenwan Resort, where rooms with the best lake views cost upwards of NT$30,000 (around US$1,000), will not open until later this year. Nevertheless, the basic premise behind the humor – that Sun Moon Lake has something to suit all budgets – is true.
Great Sights at Sun Moon Lake
By Mark Caltonhill
But Hotels So Great that Guests Might Want to Stay in Their Rooms
22 May • June 2010
Travel in Taiwan
Photos / The Lalu, Fleur de Chin, Wen-Jen Fan
The Lalu
Fleur de Chine
The Lalu
Fleur de Chine
I
n terms of accommodation, there are plenty of homestays at one end of the spectrum and various five-star establishments with all imaginable facilities at the other, with prices to match. As for food, visitors can buy everything from a bowl of noodles costing NT$40 to hotel fare at NT$1,000-plus per person. For transportation around the area, there are buses circling the lake, boat shuttles zipping across it, a newly opened cable car lifting visitors above the terrain and, if misty, above the “sea of clouds,” and a range of vessels available for hire, from rowing boats at NT$200 per hour to yachts for wedding parties at prices demanding pockets as deep as the lake itself. Quality inexpensive hotels are located in the main lakeside towns of Shuishe and Ita Thao and are more likely to offer urban panoramas or views of wooded hillside than glimpses of the lake. Lake vistas are, after all, what most
visitors come here for, and are what attracted President Chiang Kai-shek to regularly spend time here almost half a century ago. For a vacation hotel that is a sumptuous home-away-from-home, visitors might want to raise their budgets and stay somewhere like the Fleur de Chine or The Lalu (from NT$11,500 and NT$15,000 + 10% per night, respectively). Both boast so many topclass facilities that visitors may be reluctant to leave the complexes, and offer such magnificent views over Sun Moon Lake that they might not even leave their rooms.
I couldn’t help but notice the detail and artistic sense on exhibit in every corner of the house Chiang Kai-shek established his summer chalet on the Hanbi Peninsula in a building built by the Japanese
during their period of colonial rule (1895-1945). He later added the Jesus Church nearby for the convenient practice of his faith, a jetty for his private boats, a number of pavilions for enjoying the views, and the Cien Pagoda on a high hill across the lake in remembrance of his mother. His simple single-story accommodation, which has been reconstructed, sits on the grounds of The Lalu hotel, and is used to display materials on the history of the area’s aboriginal inhabitants, the original Japanese-era hostel, and international VIPs who visited Chiang The here. Lalu The Lalu similarly presents a simple yet elegant appearance to the outside world. Visitors arriving from the inland side see only a single-story building standing on the hilltop. Gray slate and brown timber bring to mind rustic aboriginal dwellings, tranquil pools suggest Japanese Zen gardens, and the stone entrance lions and wicker
Travel in Taiwan
May • June 2010 23
PLACES TO STAY
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Add: 3142 Zhongxing Rd., Shuishe Village, Yuchi Township, Nantou County
DE EUR 雲品
CH I N
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酒店
Add: 23 Zhongzheng Rd., Sun Moon Lake, Yuchi Township, Nantou County 南投縣 魚 池 鄉日月潭中正 路23號
南投縣魚池鄉水社村中興路142號
Tel: (049) 285-6788
Tel: (049) 285-5311
L AL
涵碧
樓
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www .the lalu. com .tw
birdcages introduce Han Chinese motifs. These themes are continued throughout the hotel, but the pretenses of small size and simplicity are quickly abandoned in favor of luxury and elegance. Once inside it soon becomes clear that there are in fact seven floors, cascading down the hillside to the lantern-lit pier beside Chiang’s jetty at lake level. The Lalu also boasts Taiwan’s longest heated outdoor swimming pool; but more impressive than its 60-meter length is the seamless visual transition from pool to lake and lake to sky. Apparently it took exacting calculation of depth, angle and tile color to match the pool to the azure of the lake. Such attention to detail is found throughout the hotel but, above all, guests’ attention is focused on the view across the lake toward the small Lalu Island (from which the hotel takes its English name). This just manages to break the lake’s surface and leads the
24 May • June 2010
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l.com hote e n i ech eurd ww.fl
Add: 455-6 Zhongshan Rd., Shuishe Village, Yuchi Township, Nantou County 南投縣魚 池鄉 水社村中山路 455- 6號
Tel: (049) 285-5188
eye to the Cien Pagoda beyond. Every lake-view bedroom and en-suite living room, the lobby bar, the Japanese and Chinese restaurants, and even the spa and massage rooms maximize the view by means of floor-to-ceiling windows. If patrons do manage to leave their rooms and the hotel, there is a trail around the peninsula with interesting sights highlighted. Chiang Kaishek’s favorite pavilion, for example, is apparently the only such structure in Taiwan with a gun emplacement beneath. There are similar Fleur trails near the Fleur de de Chine Chine. The 366 Steps of the Year, celebrating the birthdays of local and international figures, offers an interesting route from the nearby Wenwu Temple down to another old jetty on the lake. In fact, the hotel will help to arrange a variety of tours around the lake and into the surrounding district, including boat
CRYSTAL JA
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碧水山居
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www.jade-c halet.com.t w
tours to Lalu Island, Cien Pagoda, and Xuanguang Temple, and trips further afield to the Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village. But, again, guests might find it hard just to leave the hotel. Apart from the daily evening performance of aboriginal dance, the Chinese teahouse-style café, and some Western-style bedrooms, the Fleur de
The Fleur de Chine is the first Sun Moon Lake hotel with a hot-spring bath in every room Chine is primarily designed in Japanese style. This includes tatami-floored rooms with low furniture, tea-making equipment, and heated toilet seats. Many guests adopt the Japanese style of wearing dressing gown and slippers throughout their stay, even when dining at night. There is a choice of Chinese and Western restaurants – buffet, set menus, and a la carte – as well as a rooftop bar
Photos / The Lalu, Fleur de Chine, Wen-Jan Fan
TH E
The Lalu
The Lalu
Crystal Jade Chalet
with ponds that create a lakeside feel and with spectacular views across the real lake below. At the other end of the hotel there is a gym, a 25-meter and various other swimming pools, and a spa with natural hot-spring water. If your budget is a bit tighter, you can still enjoy lakeside Crystal accommodation such as Jade the Crystal Jade Chalet, a Chalet homestay near the lake’s dam a few kilometers west of Shuishe. Run by the Huang family, it offers five rooms overlooking the lake and costs NT$2,500 on weekdays, NT$4,500 on holidays. The rooms are decorated in a simple yet elegant European style, more boutique hotel than bed-and-breakfast, with deep baths, private balconies with chairs and tables available for late-night drinks or morning coffees, and floorto-ceiling windows designed to make the most of the Chalet’s views across its tranquil corner of the western “moon”
part of the lake back toward Shuishe and the Hanbi Peninsula. Attractions within walking distance include lakeside trails, a section of bicycle path, and the Longfeng Temple. To the west is the Shuishe Dam where, as long as there is daylight, there will be couples posing for their pre-wedding photographs. In short, there is much to keep the visitor busy even before setting out onto the lake.
Direct transportation from Taipei to Sun Moon Lake is by Kuo-Kuang Motor Transport (www.kingbus. com.tw). Buses also go to the lake from Taichung’s conventional railway and high-speed rail stations. All the hotels reviewed above can arrange transportation for patrons from Taichung.
ENGLISH & CHINESE Chang Lian-kuei Chiang Kai-shek Cien Pagoda Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village Hanbi Peninsula Jesus Church Lalu Island Longfeng Temple Maolanshan "Ming Lake Legendary Sights Hall”
張連桂
minsu
民宿
蔣介石 慈恩塔 九族文化村 涵碧半島 耶穌教堂 拉魯島 龍鳳宮 貓囒山 明潭傳奇風物館
Old Man under the Moon 月下老人 水社 Shuishe 水社壩 Shuishe Dam 宋美齡 Soong Mei-ling 日月潭 Sun Moon Lake 日月行館 Wenwan Resort Wenwu Steps of the Year 文武年梯 文武廟 Wenwu Temple 玄光寺 Xuanguang Temple 伊達邵 Yidashao
Travel in Taiwan
May • June 2010 25
Photo / Matthew Davidoff
Touched by Taiwan
26 May • June 2010
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n the summer of 2009 I succumbed, after over a decade of procrastination, and made the terrible mistake of getting a nine-tofive job. Most sane people get fed up with their work, their alarm clocks, their monotonous lives, and their routines, but I’ve made a religion of it. I’ve worked very hard to avoid working hard, and I wasn’t at all happy with my new situation. The stability left me feeling lifeless and unoriginal. My restlessness and fear of responsibility soon caught up with me, and in mid-August I asked my boss for a couple of weeks off. She agreed, and I excitedly raced home to plan a journey. After fourteen cups of coffee I’d reviewed all my Taiwan maps and
City, but by lunchtime the lines of buildings had disappeared, the eightlane boulevards had become sleepy mountain roads, and the rocky coastline rolled out in front of me. For the first time in months, I felt free…no schedule, no alarm clock, no expectations, no hurry. The thought of the unknown, the intoxication of freedom, the newfound oxygen; within two hours, life had become exciting again! y first stop on my excursion along the east coast was the seaside town of Fulong. Known for its long, sandy beaches, phenomenal bicycle trails, and proximity to Turtle Mountain (Guishan) Island, Fulong and neighboring Daxi are both popular
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past meadows and rice fields, and even got to see grazing water buffalo. On this trail, absent of motor vehicles or crowds, I was able to imagine this island through the ages – times before trains and flashing lights, when it was inhabited by simple fishermen and farmers. After one more day of lazing on the beach I headed further south, meandering through Yilan County. This section of the trip ended up being one of my favorites; the highway took me slightly inland, passing rice farms, lakes, mountains, and more rice farms. Here, you get a feel for the “real Taiwan” – a region where life has stayed the same for generations. Everywhere I went, people saw my gear tied onto the scooter and
Taiwan’s Easy Rider Goes Into the Wild Taking a Motor Scooter Down to the Sea and Up into the High Mountains By Matthew Davidoff
guidebooks, and had a rough plan for my Taiwanese motorcycle trip. I watched the iconic flicks Easy Rider and Into the Wild, and decided to combine the two – minus the uglier scenes, of course. On a sunny weekend morning, I loaded a tent, sleeping bag, and small backpack onto my jalopy of a motor scooter and started my adventure. It took me about an hour to navigate my way out of the chaotic maze of Taipei
weekend destinations for Taipei-ers. After finding a good campsite (Longmen Camping Resort), I started on my quest to become “raisin colored” and napped on the beach all day. Next day I embarked on the Caoling Historic Trail; this is one of northern Taiwan’s most popular historical routes. The trail can be completed (one way) in a few hours, and it offers a unique look at Taiwan’s history as well as incredible views of the coast. I went through valleys of reeds,
couldn’t help but smile. Everyone had the same questions: You are a foreigner traveling alone? You have no itinerary? You’re gonna be on the road for how long? You don’t mind that your skin looks like that of a raisin? Everyone encouraged me, letting out a jiayou (keep going!) as I passed by. They drew maps on napkins and offered tea or fruit, thrilled at the appreciation I had for their beautiful country. The next few days took me through
Travel in Taiwan
May • June 2010 27
Touched by Taiwan the bustling port town of Nanfangao (famous for fresh seafood) and down the (in)famous Suhua (Suao-Hualien) Highway. This treacherous section of highway is the gateway between the northern and the southern part of eastern Taiwan, and a staple of any “been there, done that” visit to the island. The highway climbs to 350 meters above sea level and often takes you along sections precariously close to the edge of cliffs. Zigzagging along the coast is a great adventure, offering some of the best views in all of Taiwan. After pumping myself full of adrenaline and taking a couple hundred photos, I made my way into Hualien
seen had been in Lonely Planet’s “not to be missed” section, meaning that – for me – they weren’t exciting enough.
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inally I’d be venturing into the central mountains, an area seldom visited and a true departure from modern-day Taiwan. This meant: no 7-Elevens, no 24-hour gas stations, and no people to draw maps for me. The plan was to ride through Taroko Gorge and then follow the highway up into the mountains and the north-south “spine” of Taiwan. Taroko National Park has been the subject of a million travel articles, and for good reason. It is INCREDIBLE! With its vibrant blue river, psychedelic
several areas to camp for free) and set up for the night. As the last of the vendors and tourists disappeared, the gorge became eerily quiet. While the number of visitors can swell to hundreds or thousands during the day, the nighttime population shrinks to a few dozen. Accompanied only by crickets and the rush of the Liwu River, I’d finally made it into the wild. Miles and miles from any city, the stars shone brighter than I’d ever seen before; I fell asleep gazing up at the Milky Way, feeling truly blessed to have made it this far. The next morning I woke up at 6 am, unable to hide from the glaring sun. After a quick breakfast I headed inland Campsite
Local policeman
On a mountain road
County, where I spent the next few days rock formations, and vertical walls on along Highway No. 8. As I traveled enjoying the beaches, tracing rivers, and both sides of the highway, this marblehigher and higher, the climate changed. cycling along the coast. The marble walls and tropical plants laced canyon is truly a must-see. After disappeared The thought of the unknown, the intoxication of freedom, the new and I was three days of rest and found oxygen; within two hours, life had become exciting again! greeted large meals, by big, fat I was ready to start the real adventure. pine trees! Three years in Taiwan and I got there with time enough for Up to that point my trip had been fun, I didn’t even know they had pine trees some trekking and souvenir shopping but I’d been on a path traveled by many, before the only town in the area, here. I felt as if I’d made it to the top a path traveled by tour groups and Tianxiang, went to sleep. I found a small of the world, looking down on Taroko, elderly people. Most of the sights I’d looking down on the ocean, on the rice campsite (Taroko National Park has 28 May • June 2010
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Photos / Matthew Davidoff; Vision Int'l
Taroko Gorge
fields and busy urban areas far away. I reached the clouds, nearly drowned in the clouds…and then surpassed them, riding across a narrow bridge, surrounded by white on all sides. As I neared the little town of Lishan (2,000 meters above sea level), it got cold, then really cold and then…unbearably cold. In August, flatland Taiwan is a sauna, often 30 degrees Celsius or more with 90% humidity, so this weather came as a bit of a shock. I was not at all prepared. As I’d been moving ever higher I’d been putting more and more layers of clothing on, until I was wearing everything I had brought with me, including a raincoat and a garbage bag
Highway No. 7A – for another couple of hours.
Miles and miles from any city, the stars shone brighter than I’d ever seen before; I fell asleep gazing up at the Milky Way, feeling truly blessed to have made it this far My final destination for the day was Wuling Farm. This large farm and recreation area was really pleasant. With beautiful trees, waterfalls, and rivers for fishing, I felt as if I’d arrived
Resting in a scenic place
After a night in flatland Yilan County I finally turned back home to Taipei. As I headed down my final mountain road and entered the city, I felt the heat of rush-hour traffic, smelled the exhaust of a million motor scooters, and heard the beeping buses and chattering masses. Yes, it felt good to be home! In the end, I couldn’t have asked for a better trip. Though most opt for trains and buses when traveling around Taiwan, I was happy with my decision to take a scooter. The freedom to explore any road and go (or stop) at any time gave this vacation a different flavor. Roads were good; inexpensive (or free) Typical mountain road
Enjoying the freedom on two wheels
that I’d been filling with dirty laundry. I had long been praying for a huge cup of coffee to jump into. Finally I found myself in Lishan, and thanked God for the chance to get a hot bowl of soup and get out of the cold for a while. The tiny town intrigued me. What was life like up here? Did they ever get to wear shorts? Had they ever seen a foreigner before? After a quick lunch and as much hot tea as I could down, I headed north – this time on
Taking a snap shot
in an American summer camp. Wuling was hot and dry during the day; the air was crisp and “piney.” I camped there, though the area has ample accommodation of other types, from simple hostels to lavish resorts. After a couple days in Wuling I continued heading north, back toward Yilan County. The descent took me almost a full day, with majestic forests gradually left behind and the thick, stagnant summer air of the lowlands entered.
campgrounds were easy to find; and I never drove too far without coming across a small town. Though I was traveling alone, I never felt at risk and I never felt lost. On the contrary, every corner brought new local friends, excited to offer advice or warm conversation. Taiwan is smaller than most of the states in my country, but it really does offer a dozen climates, a hundred cultures, and a thousand experiences. Visitors often excitedly speak of Travel in Taiwan
May • June 2010 29
Touched by Taiwan
The Traveling Route Keelung City
Taipei City
Caoling Historic Trail
Prov. Hwy 9
Prov. Hwy 7 7
Yilan City
Fulong
Pacific Ocean Suao
Wuling Farm Lishan
Yilan County
Prov. Hwy 9
Taroko National Park Tianxiang
Hualien County
30 May • June 2010
9
Hualien City
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Taiwan’s busy night markets and soothing hot springs. My advice to them is now always the same: “You need to get a map (and a warm coat) and explore the rest! Go swim in the Pacific, hike through a marble canyon, and sway with the palm trees. Breathe the thick fog of the pines and travel above the clouds, peering down at this intriguing little island.”
ENGLISH & CHINESE Caoling Historic Trail Daxi Fulong Hualien County Lishan Liwu River Longmen Camping Resort Nanfangao
草嶺古道
jiayou
加油
Suhua Highway Taroko Gorge Tianxiang Turtle Mountain Island Wuling Farm Yilan County
大溪 福隆 花蓮縣 梨山 立霧溪 龍門露營區 南方澳
(蘇花公路) 太魯閣峽谷 天祥 龜山島 武陵農場 宜蘭縣
Flying
With Its Unique Blend of Chinese Classical Music and Western Pop Tunes, the Taiwanese Musical Group “East Wing” Touches Old and Young Music Fans Alike
Photos/ Ellen Yeh, Sunny Su, East Wing
David Ji
High
Ivan Ji
Nicole Ji
As they do in Western countries, older folks in Taiwan often fret about “kids these days. ” The litany of complaints in Taiwan tracks closely the points people make in the West: youngsters these days are ill-mannered, wear strange clothes, don’t respect their elders, don’t appreciate their own culture, etc. One group of Taiwanese teenagers, with the addition of some youngsters in their twenties, is trying to do something about this last complaint by presenting traditional Chinese music and instruments in a unique and By David Bratt exciting way.
Travel in Taiwan May • June 2010 31
MY LOCAL FRIENDS
Far left: Nicole Ji with a liuqin (Chinese mandarin); a zhongruan in front
Left: Yangqin (a type of dulcimer)
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y first thought when I see the nine members of East Wing wrapping up their dress rehearsal on a stage outside of Taipei City Hall is that they don’t especially look like promoters of traditional Chinese music. For one thing, all nine are dressed in flashy, stylish, and decidedly Western clothing (suit coats for the guys, short skirts for the girls, with headset microphones to boot) that wouldn’t put them too far out of place on the stage of American Idol. But the lyrics in their final song – which include a traditional Chinese wish that the God of Wealth will favor the listener’s household and that each will have a prosperous new year – and the decidedly non-Western instruments in the performers’ hands suggest that their choice of wardrobe doesn’t nearly tell the whole story of this group of young Taiwanese musicians. Taking a break with the other members of East Wing before their performance later that night at the Taipei Lantern Festival, lead singer Ivan Ji (who also plays the erhu, a twostringed instrument often described as the Chinese violin) explains to me the original vision behind the group: “Most young people in Taiwan these days aren’t too familiar with traditional 32 May • June 2010
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Chinese music (i.e., guoyue, or ‘national music’). If they listen to traditional music at all, it’s usually Western; if they have any impression of Chinese music, they’ll think of something very formal and boring. We wanted to combine Chinese instruments with a style of music and performance that younger people in Taiwan are more familiar with and find exciting, to make them think, ‘Wow, Chinese instruments can actually play music like this!’” Over the past four years, Ivan and his bandmates have worked toward this goal by using an array of traditional Chinese instruments to play music from Western pop songs to classic Chinese works to a slew of their own creations, in concerts all over East Asia.
Ivan and his bandmates have used an array of traditional Chinese instruments to play music from Western pop songs to classic Chinese works to a slew of their own creations
I
n many ways, the backgrounds of the members of East Wing mirror the blend of East and West that East
East Wing during reheasals
Left: Close-up of an erhu Right: Flutist Kevin Teng with a selection of Chinese flutes
Wing aims to achieve. Both Ivan and his younger brother David, for example, trained for many years in a Chinese music conservatory. And both also have an intimate familiarity with the Western musical tradition, although their respective introductions came at different ends of the spectrum. Ivan recalls how he spent several years moonlighting in a rock band: “I wanted to be a rocker because I loved the feeling of being on stage,” he says, “of having everyone watching me.” David, on the other hand, started off playing the violin and, inspired after seeing his brother give a performance in a concert of Chinese music, decided to take up the erhu. The brothers, who are together responsible for putting together the pieces that East Wing plays, bring this cross-cultural sensibility to the creative process. Taking turns working at a single computer, the brothers will first decide on a song that they want to use as the basis for a composition. Sometimes Ivan starts with a Western song, and works with his brother to figure out how best to distribute the different lines among the different instruments in the group. At the other extreme, he’ll start with a traditional Chinese song and figure out how to
introduce Western touches (Ivan is fond of synthesizers) to the mix. David notes that they also sometimes work from Taiwanese folk songs: “A lot of our listeners, especially older ones, like to hear the way that we take the songs that they heard growing up and give them a new twist; the audiences we played for in mainland China when we toured there loved them, too.” Lately, the brothers have also been working to create a body of their own songs (all available on their website at www. eastwingmusic.com). Once the brothers have worked out the score, each individual band member takes his or her part and tries to nail it down within a week. This first step presents different challenges for individual band members. For example, during performances Nicole (a cousin of the brothers) alternates between three instruments – the zhongruan, a circular, guitar-like instrument with a relatively low range; the yueqin, which looks like a squatter, shorter-necked version of the zhongruan; and the san xian, a threestringed plucked instrument with a long neck and short, box-like body) – and thus has to learn three different lines as well as practice switching between instruments. Next comes the part that all Travel in Taiwan May • June 2010 33
MY LOCAL FRIENDS group starts to fit these disparate pieces together in rehearsals at their cramped space just outside Taipei City limits. This stage involves a lot of painstaking work coordinating the movements of and interactions between the different members of the group. Nicole tells me that at first she was afraid of bumping into people during this stage, especially since she has to maintain different distances from people depending on which of her three instruments she happens to be holding (“It can be a bit complicated,” as she puts it). When Ivan decides that a song is ready to go, it goes into the group’s repertoire.
East Wing performing during the Taipei Lantern Festival
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members of the band describe as the hardest – choreography. David recalls that when he joined East Wing, learning how to move around the stage was quite challenging: “When you’re performing in a conservatory, you sit still and only have to worry about playing your own instrument well. In performing for East Wing, though, you have to worry about getting the dancing right, keeping the right expression on your face, and making sure that you’re performing with energy.” Indeed, 34 May • June 2010
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David recalls with a rueful smile how his brother used to yell at him when he first joined the group: “I can memorize music very easily,” he says, “but it was very difficult for me at first to get my moves on stage right. When I realized I wasn’t getting it, I started videotaping myself and then watching the tape with my brother. Eventually things started getting easier.” In the final two weeks of the monthlong process of moving a song from the studio to the performance stage, the
omewhere between all of their practicing and performing, the members of East Wing manage to squeeze in other activities as well; quite a few of them, for example, teach music on the side to make ends meet. And, of course, they have to try to stay in shape. As Ivan puts it, “Moving around on stage like that takes a lot of energy, plus we don’t eat that well when we’re on the road. I have to run regularly in order to be able to perform well.” Finally, some members pursue other side projects – David often writes background music for video games, a job that he says he would like to try full-time if he ever should leave East Wing. All in all, though, the different members stress that they lead fairly ordinary lives. As Nicole explains, “My friends who don’t play music tell me how much they envy me for being able to lead an artist’s life, but I still have to do things like clean my apartment. I like being able to do what I love, but my life still includes a lot of hard, ordinary work.” After chatting with the group for a while, I leave East Wing so that they can get everything together for their upcoming performance. Half an hour later, they stride confidently onto the stage and take their initial positions: Cora and Fanny, on the yangqin (a type of dulcimer) and the guzheng (a kind of zither), respectively, stand in the back, acting as anchors for the group; Nicole, Ivan, David, Joan on the pipa (often
referred to as the Chinese lute) and the group’s three flautists fan out in front of them. The first piece on the program for today is Ricky Martin’s “Livin’ la Vida Loca.” For me, at least, it takes a bit of getting used to hearing a pair of erhus playing the blaring opening lines of a Latin dance song, but the young people in the audience recognize the tune immediately and are into it. By the end of the song even some of the older folks are smiling and tapping their feet in time with the music. The logic behind Ivan’s strategy in his program arrangement – “we put something that we think everyone will like at the beginning” – becomes clear.
It takes a bit of getting used to hearing a pair of erhus playing the blaring opening lines of a Latin dance song
Photos/ Ellen Yeh, Sunny Su, East Wing
The pieces in the rest of the show can’t really be categorized as belonging to a single genre. There are some other Western tunes in the program (e.g., Abba’s “Mama Mia”), but there are also pieces based on works by Chinese artists like Sally Yeh, Japanese performers such as Yo Hitoto, and several of Ivan and David’s original compositions. Whichever piece they’re playing, though, the members of East Wing have an engaging stage presence, backing away when one member has a solo, acting out some of the dialogs written into the songs, and generally drawing the audience in with their energy. The show comes to a dramatic close with the New Year’s song that I heard at the end of their dress rehearsal, after which the
band gives a series of bows and heads off-stage to a flurry of applause. Judging by the smiles on their faces, it seems to have been a pretty good show. And it’s also a show with an increasingly international future. Talking to him later in the same week, I ask David how they had chosen the name East Wing. “Well,” he responds, “the ‘East’ part of the name is obvious. But we don’t just want to share this music within Taiwan. We want our music to fly first to all of Asia and from there to the rest of the world. So we thought that ‘Wing’ was a good way of saying that.” And so – whether it’s in Taiwan, elsewhere in Asia, or in a city near you, make sure not to miss this group’s unique take on a traditional Chinese art form. ENGLISH & CHINESE David Ji 姬禹安
erhu 二胡 guoyue 國樂 guzheng 古箏 Ivan Ji 姬禹丞 Nicole Ji 姬沛瑩
pipa
琵琶
Sally Yeh 葉倩文
sanxuan
三弦
Taipei Lantern Festival 台北燈節
yangqin
揚琴
Yo Hitoto一青窈
yueqin 月琴 zhongruan 中阮 East Wing (東方之翼)
Contact: Peggy Chao (趙梓彤) / Activity Manager Tel: (02) 2501-2032 Mobile: 0933-973-469 E-Mail: info@eastwingmusic.com Website: www.eastwingmusic.com
FESTIVAL EVENT
Cooling Off and Getting Wet Rafting on the Xiuguluan River in Hualien County The summers in Taipei can be overwhelming; even for long-term residents the combination of high temperature and humidity is often quite exhausting. Fortunately, Taiwan has a plethora of water-based activities to help you cool off and get outside to make the most of the summer. By Phil Dawson
36 May • June 2010
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Often hundreds of thrill-seekers can be seen at a time rafting on the Xiuguluan River
While the rapids can be strong, rafting is always safe with lifeguards being close by
Photos / Tourism Bureau; Vision Int'l
T
aiwan, being an island, has no shortage of scenic sandy beaches that during the summer draw in tourists and locals alike looking for a cooling swim in the ocean. Fulong on the northeast coast and Kending at the southernmost tip of the island are two of my favorite beach destinations. However, taking a dip in the ocean isn’t the only way to cool off here, and those looking for a bit more excitement will be enticed by the many fantastic surfing spots, such as Wushi Harbor in Yilan County and Jialeshui in Pingtung County. These are among Taiwan’s best surf locations, and during the summer, particularly on weekends, are magnets for the island’s growing surf community. Sea kayaking, snorkeling, and scuba diving are other great ways to get wet and enjoy the amazing coastal scenery – above and below the waterline. The local beaches are wonderful, yet they are only number two on my list of ideal summer destinations. The rivers and streams that wind and bore through Taiwan’s mountainous body are the real highlight for me, and any summer visit to Taiwan must include sampling one of the many idyllic locations. The mountains that cover about 70% of the island are laced with hundreds of incredible streams of crystal-clear water. During the hot summer months, many of these streams become excellent locations for exciting river-tracing and kayaking outings, which combine
physical challenges with the pleasures of playing in the refreshing waters while surrounded by stunningly beautiful natural scenery. The steep gradients of many of the mountains also mean that rivers and streams often flow fast, with numerous waterfalls and rapids along their course to the ocean, making some of them suitable for white-water rafting. One of the most scenic and best known is the Xiuguluan River, situated about onethird of the way from Hualien City to Taitung City. The river originates in the high mountains west of Ruisui town, traverses the East Rift Valley, and cuts through the Coastal Mountain Range before flowing into the Pacific Ocean. White-water rafting trips are available on the river around the year with the best time from April through November. There are several companies that organize trips; most will arrange transport for you from Hualien City, which makes rafting convenient to tackle as part of a short weekend trip. These companies also offer several other activities, including whalewatching (winter/spring is the best time) and night-fishing trips. Another interesting activity is river-tracing – unquestionably a must-do for all lovers of the outdoors! y latest trip to the Xiuguluan River was in June 2009. Three friends and I took the train from Taipei down to Ruisui early one Saturday
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morning, a day with perfect, cloudless blue skies. Though for many the small town of Ruisui is thought of as nothing more than the starting point for rafting trips, it is also a very nice launch-point for explorations of the scenic East Rift Valley. Decorated with huge fields of waving paddy rice and with towering mountain ranges framing the valley east and west, this is a great area in which to cycle or stroll around. The valley is especially attractive in the winter, when fields of golden-yellow rapeseed flowers create marvelous scenes and fantastic photo opportunities. On this summer day, however, it was over 35 degrees Celsius and we only had one thing on our minds – cooling off and getting wet! Before our rafting trip we had to attend a safety demonstration and watch a video explaining what to do in an emergency. This was a pleasant surprise for me; in other places that I have rafted in Asia the safety briefings have often been of the “put on your life jacket and get in the boat” variety. The rafting companies provide helmets, life jackets, and all other safety equipment that is required. It is also possible to buy/ rent rafting shoes and other items of clothing that you may have forgotten to pack. After about half an hour standing around in the blazing sun with all equipment on, we were finally given the go-ahead to go down to the river and get in the rafts. There was a temptation to just bypass the craft altogether and Travel in Taiwan
May • June 2010 37
EVENT but what the Xiuguluan River lacks in speed it makes up in natural beauty. We were quite happy to at times slowly drift down the river taking in the expansive views of our grand surroundings. The rafting trips here are suitable for all ages/abilities, making for really fun family outings. However, bear in mind that, no matter what level the water is
jump straight into the cool, refreshing water, but somehow we managed to resist. The rafts seat about eight people, so we shared ours with a group of young students from the city of Changhua on Taiwan’s west side. Another pleasing difference about rafting in Taiwan is that you are in the boats on your own; there is no instructor/guide with you.
Xiuguluan River
else was in range. At one point we were so involved in the war of the waters that we didn't see a set of rapids ahead. As we entered them I was flung out of our boat and into the water – fortunately, however, I had the presence of mind to grab my friend and pull him in too! Though I had always thought it would be an incredibly scary experience being
Taroko Gorge
East Rift Valley
at, you will certainly get very, very wet during the trip, so it is a good idea to invest in a waterproof camera if you want to capture memories of your trip in digital-still format! ven though in the first leg the rapids weren't as exciting as we had hoped, much fun was had. The minute we jumped into our raft we began splashing all the other rafts in our group; soon all twenty were involved in a no-holds-barred water fight. We splashed at anyone who came near us, and splashed each other when no-one
The lifeguards drive around the river in small motorized boats to keep an eye on things and make sure everyone is safe, and being in total control of your own boat makes things a lot more fun. In general the rapids are class 2 to 3 (skill level: basic to experienced paddling skills), although after a typhoon has just passed they can get up to class 4 (skill level: whitewater experience), the best time to go if you are looking for excitement. The organizers assure visitors that the ride is safe at all times, however. The first half of the trip, which lasts a total of around 4 hours depending on the water levels, wasn’t as intense as on previous trips I have been on, the water levels being low,
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thrown into the middle of swirling rapids, it really wasn't at all. We just lay on our backs, as we had been instructed to do, and soon caught up with our raft to be pulled back aboard. The biggest problem we had was that we were laughing so hard the others had to struggle that much harder to haul us into the boat! We stopped at the halfway point for a lunch provided by the rafting company and a well-earned rest. The
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38 May • June 2010
Travel in Taiwan
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second half of the trip was a lot more exciting, for from this point the rapids sections become a lot faster and more concentrated. We soon realized that our crewmates had preferred the relaxing first half, and I often turned my head round as we bounced up and over the waves to find them cowering on the floor of the boat in the tuck position.
each rafting company in operation here can also provide transport back to the starting point at Ruisui or to Hualien City. The sun was just setting as we boarded the near-empty bus that would take us down the coast to our next destination, and we were all in good spirits after a superb day in the great outdoors. We passed the time planning our next rafting trip – hopefully when the waters are higher and the river is in the mood to give us an even better ride.
ENGLISH & CHINESE Liyu Lake
The boats are pretty easy to control – except when half the crew stop paddling and hide! As a result we found ourselves spinning through the fast-flowing water and bouncing sideways off protruding rocks. Our run finished, after a quick shower at facilities provided, and after lots of photos taken with our new friends, we were driven up to the nearby coastal highway to catch a bus south to the city of Taitung. For a small fee,
Changhong Bridge Changhua Coastal Mountain Range East Rift Valley Fulong Hualien Jialeshui Kending Ruisui Ruisui Bridge Taroko Gorge Wushi Harbor Xiuguluan River Taitung Xiuguluan River White Water Rafting Tour
長虹橋 彰化 海岸山脈 花東縱谷 福隆 花蓮 佳樂水 墾丁 瑞穗 瑞穗大橋 太魯閣峽谷 烏石港 秀姑巒溪 台東 秀姑巒溪泛舟 觀光活動
Photos / Tourism Bureau; East Rift Valley Nat. Scenic Area Admin.; Vision Int'l
Xiuguluan River White Water Rafting Tour Each summer, the East Coast National Scenic Area Administration organizes a great international white-water rafting happening under the name “Xiuguluan River White Water Rafting Tour”. The main highlight of the event is a rafting competition (on June 12 this year) where a total of 200 teams (each consisting of eight paddlers) from Taiwan go on a 22km race starting at Ruisui Bridge and ending at Changhong Bridge close to the coast. The winning team receives a check for NT$30,000, while teams finishing second and third enjoy a prize of NT$20,000 and NT$10,000, respectively. Apart from the main race there will be a wide variety of fun activities and entertainment programs on the river bank. For more information, visit the website of the East Coast National Scenic Area: www.eastcoast-nsa.gov.tw . Those who want to go on an organized tour which combines a rafting trip on the Xiuguluan River with bicycling, learning about indigenous culture and sampling indigenous cuisine, staying at a homestay, exploring the natural beauty of the East Rift Valley and the East Coast, and much more, can contact the following travel agencies: HAPPY SPRING TRAVEL SERVICE 春悅旅行社 TEL: (03) 826 -7 707
EVERBEST TRAVEL SERVICE 永嘉旅行社
w w w. hap pysp r ing.t w
TEL: (02) 2503-8899 w w w.yoyof l y.co m
OCEAN TRAVEL AGENCY 海洋旅行社 TEL: (03 8) 781- 078
GOLDEN FOUNDERS TRAVEL SERVICE 金建旅行社
w w w. hsrent .co m .t w
TEL: (07) 269-3678 w w w.178 tour.co m .t w
Travel in Taiwan
May • June 2010 39
POP CULTURE
Beach
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ne of the highlights of the summer among music lovers is the Hohaiyan Rock Festival held at Fulong Beach in July. This year celebrating its tenth year running, Hohaiyan is Taiwan's premier indie music festival, featuring rock, hip hop, folk, and anything in between. The festival, with a name that comes from a term of the indigenous Amis Tribe describing the sound of the ocean, has seen attendance numbers steadily rise as young people across the island embrace underground musicians and beach culture. Leading up to the festival, hundreds of indie bands compete for a spot on the 40 May • June 2010
Travel in Taiwan
Rocks
ast Offers The Northeast Co rtime Fun e m m u S f o s e v a W By Er ic Lambert
prestigious Hohaiyan stage, and once there a battle of the bands commences to determine the winners of a variety of awards. Bands rock out all day and into the evening, with a bigger audience than many groups have ever encountered before. The energy can be electric. Throughout the festival grounds thousands of young people dance, swim, attend workshops, play, and party on the golden-sand beach, while a busy lane of vendors sells Hohaiyan T-shirts, crafts, beverages, and local seafood snacks. Even without the Hohaiyan excitement, Fulong Beach is a fantastic visit. The beach is only a short walk from the nearby train station, the area’s key transportation hub, but on the way there are many spots to stop and have a bite, and cafés offering refreshing drinks.
With clear seawater and a soft, sandy bottom, Fulong Beach is perfect for swimming, surfing, and windsurfing. If you're looking for a place to camp, one of your best options in the area will be the Longmen Camping Resort, located adjacent to Fulong near the Shuangxi River. The grounds feature hundreds of campsites as well as cabins. You can also rent bicycles in Fulong – there is a Giant bike-rental shop by the train station – and follow the area's many coastal trails, and there are lots of fun water activities to do in the calm river mouth or the nearby beach. North of Fulong, the jagged coastal area near Longdong offers a worldclass rock-climbing site and the best snorkeling and diving in northern Taiwan. Over 500 sport and traditional
Photos / Jen-Guo Chen, Northeast and Yilan Coast Nat. Scenic Area Admin., Vision Int'l
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er, final exams are getting long ys da e th , up mmer is here! er is creeping e everywhere. Su ar s The thermomet go an m us adrenaline , and delicio er, a psyched-up ck t ro g are almost over in go ter friends on a ho u're a conc g the beach with in tt And whether yo hi t. s as ve co lo t as ho rthe meone w on Taiwan's no junkie, or just so a dull moment r ve ne s e' er th summer day,
climbing routes exist on the magnificent sandstone cliffs overlooking the sea. Check with Taipei camping stores to find out when guided group outings are scheduled; or if you've got the basic gear, head to the crag on your own and climb with some friendly locals. Surrounding the rocks underwater is a beautiful coral reef teeming with ocean life, a great spot for diving and snorkeling. A couple of dive shops operate in the area, renting snorkeling gear and leading dive outings as well. urfing is at the center of life for many of Taiwan's new generation of beachgoers, key to the beach-culture explosion. In such northeast coast hotspots as Wushi Harbor, Daxi, and Fulong the streets are lined with surf shops selling and renting boards, and surfers mingle around small cafés. The mostly gentle waves during the summer are great for learning, while the swells from periodic distant typhoons can challenge even a seasoned surfer. Honeymoon Bay near Daxi, a few miles south along the coast from Fulong, is one of Taiwan's original surf beaches
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and for good reason. It's a swell magnet, and nearby mountains protect it from winds. Only the slower EMU (Electric Multiple Unit) trains on the north-south coastal railway stop at Daxi, but taxis from the nearby Fulong or Toucheng stations will also take you there. About ten kilometers south of Daxi is Wushi Harbor. A wide black-sand beach borders one side of the harbor's break wall. Sandbars formed near the wall create consistent waves during the summer, making this spot popular with surfers – and spectators too. Paragliding down to the beach from a neighboring mountainside is another adventure sport available to thrill-seekers at Wushi. Music comes to Wushi Harbor during the Yilan International Rain Festival, which is held in the months of July and August. Its Pop Music Festival, running eight hours on a single day, features some of Taiwan's hottest groups. If you want to party till the sun comes up, then don't miss the Wushi Summer Solstice Festival, also part of the Rain Festival. This is a twostage all-night beach rave showcasing
international electronic and hip-hop DJs. To get to Wushi Harbor, take a train to Toucheng station and then a short taxi ride to the beach.
ENGLISH & CHINESE Amis Tribe Daxi Fulong Beach Hohaiyan Rock Festival Honeymoon Bay Longdong Shuangxi River Toucheng Wushi Harbor Wushi Summer Solstice Festival Yilan International Rain Festival
阿美族 大溪 福隆海水浴場 貢寮海洋音樂祭 蜜月灣 龍洞 雙溪 頭城 烏石港 烏石夏至音樂節 宜蘭國際蘭雨節
Info Longmen Camping Resort 龍門露營渡假基地
ADD: 100, Xinglong St., Fulong Village,
Gongliao Township, Taipei County (台北縣貢寮鄉福隆村興隆街100 號) TEL: (02) 2499-1791~3
Travel in Taiwan
May • June 2010 41
FOOD
Left: Buns of Laolongshi Roubao
Far left: Richly filled roubao
Bottom left: Customers line up in the morning
Bottom right: Traditional steam baskets
Eat Like a Local
Discovering the Authentic Treats of Lugang Lugang, which literally means “Deer Harbor,” is an urban township located in the northwest of Changhua County. The township got its name during the Dutch colonial period (1624-1662) when it functioned as an important seaport known for its deerskin trade. Visitors can still explore many grand old temples in Lugang, including Longshan Temple (among the island’s best-preserved temples from the Qing Dynasty, dating back to 1653) and Tianhou Temple (containing a gold statue of Mazu, the Goddess of the Sea). These ornate complexes, filled with statues of deities, are a must-see for anyone touring the area. And along with the By Francesca Chang temples are local culinary experiences worthy of the gods.
42 May • June 2010
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ocated just across the street f rom Longshan Temple is Laolongshi Enjoying mianxian hu Roubao. This store has been attracting the residents of and visitors to Lugang for more than ten years with its f reshsteamed buns. Most notable are the roubao (NT$18 each), buns containing tender pieces of meat and small, f ragrant Vermicelli made in Lugang drying in the sun mushrooms. The secret recipe and special ingredients used create a juicy texture and a rich f lavor burst that seems as though a thousand dif ferent spices are regaling the palate. The aroma seems to seep through the bun f rom the center, enticing customers and creating a thirty-minute lineup outside the shop every af ternoon. Freshness is guaranteed – customers can watch their meat buns steam in large woven baskets for exactly twelve minutes. Just as f resh as the meat buns are the mantou (NT$8 each), steamed A bowl of vermicelli broth at Qiuyin buns without f illing made f rom f lour, Longshan Mianxian Hu water, and leavening agents. The mantou at Laolongshi Roubao are white, for the last decade. Qiuyin Longshan is thick, and f luf f y, with a nutritional The aroma seems to seep value and consistency similar to West- through the bun from the center, usually so busy that the owners do not ern white bread. For dessert the shop enticing customers and creating grant interviews; however, on this occasion I was graciously welcomed to ask of fers a salty cake called xian dan gao a thirty-minute lineup outside the questions and try their famous noodle (NT$7/two pieces), a traditional treat shop every afternoon dish. Handmade wheat vermicelli, green that dates back to the times before onion heads, shrimp, egg, pork, and a n my most recent Lugang excursweet cakes f rom the West were introthick soup are used to create the miansion, after my usual satisfying exduced to Taiwan. The cake’s consisxian, which is served hot and very, very perience with roubao, mantou, and exotic tency is similar to that of angel food spicy. The temperature and piquancy xian dangao, I found myself at nearby cake, yet the main ingredient used is resulted in a very slow eating experiFirst Market, a traditional outdoor marf ried onion. Small f lakes of the f ried ence for me, as I was careful not to burn ket packed with food stalls and hungry onion adorn rectangular pieces of the my mouth or overload it with the biting people. Here I discovered one of what cake, redef ining a Westerner’s idea of flavor. Looking out of the corner of my I consider First Market’s great secrets: “dessert.” When visiting Laolongshi Qiuyin Longshan Mianxian Hu’s eye, however, I saw that the two little Roubao for a taste of the old days, be vermicelli (mianxian hu) (NT$25/bowl). boys sitting next to me eagerly took their smart and do what the locals do: stop Very few tourists know about this place, first bites with no fear. Before I had even by early in the morning to avoid the yet it has been a favorite of the locals made a dent in my bowl, the two brave crowd.
Photos / Ellen Yeh, Vision Int'l
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Travel in Taiwan
May • June 2010 43
FOOD
THE STORY OF
Cheng Yu Chen Pastry Shop
Cheng Yu Chen Pastry Shop is a confectionary store that has been around for over a hundred years and is widely known for a dessert that is made without wheat flour. The phoenix-eye cake is a bite-sized treat made using only glutinous rice and white sugar. The sweet mixture is stored in earthen jars in the basement for six months in order to collect moisture from the air; adding water directly would alter the cake’s chemical makeup. After enough moisture is collected, the mixture is taken out of the jars and the confectioner
souls were already finished! Apparently, one thing that separates the local from the foreigner is the eating time needed for this dish – I dare any tourist who does not believe this to try the mianxian for himself or herself ! My next stop at First Market was the A-Po Mochi Shop. This outdoor stand has been serving mochi to Lugang residents for decades, and has remained a family business. The current owner inherited the stall from his parents and has continued the legacy. North Americans may be most familiar with the Japanese version of mochi, a dessert made with glutinous rice that is powdered on the outside. Japanese mochi balls can be found in various colors, usually filled with red- or white-bean paste. At the A-Po Mochi Shop, however, the mochi is made from millet and glutinous rice, resulting in a stickier consistency, and the employees fill the small pieces of white mochi by hand with either mungbean or malt paste and then seal the sticky pouches. A bit of peanut powder sticking to the outside completes the dessert. The finished product is a delight44 May • June 2010
Travel in Taiwan
has about four hours to shape the oval cakes – said to resemble the eye of the mythical phoenix – before the mixture hardens. This confection was once a rarity, a luxury available only to the upper class; today this shop is filled with locals and out-of-town visitors throughout the day. The shop’s phoenix-eye cake is available in four flavors: plain, almond, sesame, and green tea. An assorted-flavor box, which can be purchased for NT$120, makes a great gift. According to the owner these little gems go well with coffee.
fully chewy and sweet confection – just what I needed after my bowl of spicy hot noodles. After cleansing my palate with a bit of mochi, I headed out to try the geng at Lugang Meat Geng Spring. Geng (NT$35) is a very thick sauce containing meat, and the dish resembles a thickened soup with pieces of pork and other ingredients. Pork, squid, and cilantro are soaked in water for twelve minutes before sweet-potato powder, granulated sugar, and soy sauce are added. Fried
Though I was hesitant to try what looked like an infant’s breakfast, I was quite satisfied with the quality and flavor of this uncommon delicacy pieces of pork are then placed on top to finish the dish. The geng served here provides a salty and hearty meal that any meat-lover can appreciate. While there are other restaurants in town serving this dish, anyone who is from the area will tell you that Lugang Meat Geng Spring is the place to go if you must have the very best.
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fter resting a bit to digest what I had already enjoyed, I found myself at Lugang’s Old Street, a 300-year-old artery filled with shops and eateries. Brick buildings line the narrow, meandering alleyway, and here, at a shop named Yan Zhong Miancha, I sampled miancha, an oatmeal-like snack that was once used as a baby food before the introduction of powdered milk. Today, miancha is consumed as a rare treat rather than as a meal. Miancha is made from flour, sugar, and oil, and just like oatmeal it requires a bit of hot water to make it edible. Though I was hesitant to try what looked like an infant’s breakfast, I was quite satisfied with the quality and flavor of this uncommon delicacy. I sampled the onion and the sesame miancha, both packed with surprisingly fresh flavors that made me forget about the appearance of the food. The shop’s miancha is also available in original and almond flavors, among others. Anyone who visits Yan Zhong Miancha will also have the delightful experience of meeting the owner, an artist who paints beautiful fans and sells his packs of dry
miancha preparation (NT$120-180 per pack) from a kiosk set up outside his studio. He prepares samples for you while he chats. If you should ever have any interest in experiencing the temples, fresh air, friendly people, and relaxed environment of Taiwan’s second-oldest
city, buses from the train stations in the cities of Taichung and Changhua will take you to Lugang. And if you should ever find yourself in Deer Harbor on a visit, just follow the herd to make sure you get a taste of the township’s unique local delicacies. Miancha
Info LAOLONGSHI ROUBAO 老龍師肉包
ADD: 136 Sanmin Rd., Lugang Township,
Changhua County
彰化縣鹿港鎮三民路136號
TEL: (0 4) 7 7 7-74 02 QIUYIN LONGSHAN MIANXIAN HU 蚯蚓龍山麵線糊
ADD: 109 Meishi St., Lugang Township,
Changhua County
彰化縣鹿港鎮美市街109 號
TEL: (0 4) 7 78 -29 9 9 A-PO MOCHI SHOP 阿婆麻糬舖
ADD: 63, Anping Lane, Fuxing Rd., Lugang
Township, Changhua County (彰化縣鹿港鎮
復興路安平巷 63號)
Yan Zhong Miancha
TEL: (0 4) 7 78 -5659 LUGANG MEAT GENG SPRING 鹿港肉羹泉
ADD: 41 Gongyuan 1st Rd., Lugang Township, Changhua County 彰化縣鹿港鎮公園一路 41號 TEL: (0 4) 7 7 7- 016 6 YAN ZHONG MIANCHA 彥仲麵茶
ADD: 42 Putou St., Lugang Township,
Changhua County (彰化縣鹿港鎮埔頭街42號) TEL: (0 4) 7 76 -24 43 CHENG YU CHEN PASTRY SHOP 鄭玉珍餅舖 Mochi
ADD: 23 Putou St., Lugang Township, Changhua County (彰化縣鹿港鎮埔頭街23號) TEL: (0 4) 7 78 - 8 656 WEBSITE: w w w. j y j . co m .t w (Chin e s e)
Geng
Photos / Ellen Yeh, Vision Int'l
ENGLISH & CHINESE
Old Street of Lugang
Changhua County First Market
彰化縣
geng
羹
Longshan Temple Lugang
龍山寺
mantou
饅頭
Mazu
媽祖
mianxian miancha mochi
麵線
Old Street phoenix-eye cake
老街
roubao
肉包
Tianhou Temple
天后宮
xian dangao
鹹蛋糕
Travel in Taiwan
第一市場
鹿港
麵茶 麻糬 鳳眼糕
May • June 2010 45
SHOPPING
One Town One Product The Best Products of Taiwan from All Corners of the Island
OTOP (One Town One Product) is a successful initiative by the government to encourage and support local industries and promote unique products representative of their places of origin. Foreign visitors looking for quality products with a strong Taiwan flavor are sure to be impressed by the craftsmanship, the love for detail, the tastes, the colors, and the charms of OTOP products.
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he OTOP pro ject was started by the Small and Medium Enterprise Administration (SMEA) of the Ministry of Economic Af f airs f ollowing a similar successf ul model initiated in Japan under the name OVOP (One Village One Pro ject). The aim of the local pro ject is to identif y local industries in all of Taiwan’s 319 towns and townships specializing in products that have been 46 May • June 2010
Travel in Taiwan
traditionally produced there, are of cultural importance, are unique, and are made with raw materials f ound in the area. To date the SMEA has assisted more than a hundred producers already manufacturing high-quality products to ensure they meet the strict OTOP standards. There are now four specialized OTOP shops in Taiwan, located in the cities of Taipei, Taichung, and Kaohsiung, and at the Sun Moon Lake resort area (see contact info below). Here you’ll find a selection of the best and most representative products of Taiwan’s main and offshore islands. If you want to directly visit the shop of a certain producer, you can find contact information under the store list on the OTOP website (www.otop.tw). So, then, what products were found to be the most outstanding and thus worthy of OTOP inclusion? Products are loosely categorized as “Decoration,” “Food,” “Drink,” and “Other.” Under the Decoration category, you’ll find a wide variety of ceramic products such as tea sets. Handicrafts made by Taiwan’s indigenous tribes also make up a large
Photos / Corporate Synergy Development Center
By Kurt Weidner
percentage of products in this category, among them attractive hand-woven items and ornaments made with lazurite beads. Items made with bright-red flower patterns are easily recognized as traditional Hakka handicrafts. Refinement and prices can vary significantly, from exquisite glass or porcelain art to simple wood carvings, but what all of the products have in common is that each is deeply connected with its place of origin. By learning more about a product you will be delving into the fascinating world of Taiwan’s local history and culture. nce a year, the SMEA awards best-product designs to foster the creativeness of producers and to encourage them to continually roll out new creations. Entrants for the 2009 OTOP Design Awards competition had to show “local flavor,” had to have a “green design,” and had to be of practical use. In addition, the producers had to ensure that the products were made using only locally sourced raw materials and both produced in significant quantities and distributed in an efficient manner. Ten outstanding products were honored with the OTOP
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Design Main Award. Among them, the pencil sharpener “Reborn,” designed by Rabbit Ind. Co., immediately grabs the attention. Looking more like a vase, it has to be one of the most stylish pencil sharpeners ever made. Suho Memorial Paper Culture Foundation, won the OTOP award with a unique lampshade made of hundreds of tiny flowershaped paper pieces. Wrapped around or placed on top of an ordinary lamp, the shade creates a soft tone for your living or bedroom. Looking at some of the winning products, it might not be quite obvious what makes them superior to other designs. Only after close inspection of Jiva Design Associates’ glass tea cup, for example, do you realize that is has a double wall, allowing you to hold it without burning your hand when it contains hot tea. The clear glass with a beautifully engraved tung-flower pattern enables you to look at the color of your freshly brewed tea. The color of your tea is not easily seen when using the pitch-black tea set created by Zantan Studio; what makes this tea set special, however, is that the far infrared radiation that emanates from the charcoal surface of the items makes water molecules smaller and thus gives the tea a smoother feel. The egg-shaped earthen jar designed by Hakka-Blue is not just a nice storage container but also a compelling decoration item. The “cracks” on the surface make the object look like a “tea egg,” a well-known snack in Taiwan, and the top of the lid is shaped like a tea leaf. These are just a few examples of the OTOP project’s amazingly innovative and exquisite products. The above award-winning designs and hundreds of other OTOP products can be found at the following OTOP outlets and in shops at local tourist hotspots. If you want to find a unique, high-quality souvenir from Taiwan, you can’t go wrong with OTOP!
OTOP Taipei 101 Shop (Taipei) Add: (Taipei 101 Mall) 5F, 45 Shifu Road, Xinyi District, Taipei City (台北市 信義區市府路45號5樓 台北101購物中心)
Tel: (02) 8101-7693 Website: 101shop.otop.tw/05-3.html
OTOP High Speed Rail Shop (Taichung) Add: 1 2F, 8 Zhanqu 2nd Rd., Wuri Township, Taichung County (台中縣烏日鄉站區二路8號2樓) Tel: (04) 3600-6619
OTOP Sun Moon Lake Shop (Nantou) Add: (Near Shuishe Pier) 24 Mingsheng St., Shuishe Village, Yuchi
Township, Nantou County ( 南投縣魚池鄉水社村名勝街 24 號 水社碼頭前 ) Tel: (049) 285-6535
OTOP Dream Mall Shop (Kaohsiung) Add: (Dream Mall) 8F, 789 Zhonghua 5th Rd., Qianzhen District,
Kaohsiung City ( 高雄市前鎮區中華五路 789 號 8 樓 夢時代購物中心 ) Tel: (07) 970-5698
Travel in Taiwan
May • June 2010 47
NEW PERSPECTIVES
2
A tale of
Today is no ordinary Monday; I have a mission to complete. The mission is to tour Taipei and Kaohsiung, the two biggest
cities of Taiwan, one located in the north, one in the south, in one day. It sounds like a mission impossible, but I am keen. I make sure to bring a clock, as I know that to pull this off timing will be of the essence. By Jay Acton
cities
Taipei’s Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, the centerpiece of a spacious complex that also includes the beautiful twin buildings of the National Concert Hall and the National Theater. Inside the memorial hall is a museum detailing the life and times of former president Chiang Kai-shek, a gallery showing world-class international exhibitions, and a large vault with a magnificent bronze statue of the man. After taking in the stunning scenery of the place in the clear early morning, I stroll around the gardens surrounding the memorial hall. At this time in the morning, the garden shade draws in martial-arts practitioners, ballroom dancers, and even opera singers, all contentedly absorbed in practice
sessions. I observe a group doing some kung-fu for a while, wielding large swords. Their gentle, flowing movements momentarily lull me into a trance. Suddenly I snap out of it – the clock is ticking and it’s time to move on!
8.00 a.m. – I take the Taipei Metro (MRT) from the nearby Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall Station, headed for Longshan Temple. It’s only a three-station journey, but to get there I need to change trains at Ximen Station. After a journey of just 10 minutes my train pulls up at Longshan Temple Station. This temple is one of the oldest and most popular in Taiwan, and includes shrines housing Buddhist, Taoist, and local folk deities. When I get inside I see a large congregation
8:45 a.m.
8:00 a.m.
7:00 a.m. 7.00 a.m. – The day begins at
of Buddhists surrounding the central shrine, dedicated to Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy. They are dressed in black robes and chanting a sutra. Their chanting wafts throughout the temple along with the incense smoke as people engage in prayer and pay their respects to various gods before heading off to the tasks of the day.
8.45 a.m. – The clock is ticking, my belly rumbles, and I head off to a nearby breakfast shop for a typical Taiwanese breakfast that includes fried turnip cake, a pancake, and a cup of milk tea. Having had my fill, I see a FamilyMart convenience store down the street, where I get my High Speed Rail tickets for my southbound and return journeys. Buying tickets this way
At Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall
48 May • June 2010
Travel in Taiwan
Facts about HSR
Taipei
Total Length of HSR
345km
Average Speed
250km/h !
Kaohsiung Time for breakfast
9.45 a.m. – Having seen some of the old Taipei, I feel like heading east on the MRT Bannan Line (blue line) to the ultra-modern side of Taipei. Disembarking after a 12-minute ride at Taipei City Hall Station, I emerge to face an entire district of new, stately government buildings, grand hotels and department stores, and flashy shopping malls. I stroll along the sidewalks, appreciating the wide-open spaces in between the large-scale architectural works on this side of town. The secondtallest building in the world, Taipei 101,
2:10 p.m.
11:20 a.m.
9:45 a.m. is convenient and easy; I enter all the necessary information in the FamiPort machine, print out the order, and pay at the counter. The two-way ticket sets me back NT$2,230.
At Taipei 101
basks proudly in the morning sun, and the close-by Taipei World Trade Center, with its interesting cubist design, spills itself forth at its giant neighbor’s feet.
11.20 a.m. – I’ve frolicked long enough; those High Speed Rail tickets are burning a hole in my pocket and I feel the need for speed. I take the MRT back to Taipei Main Station and head to the HSR station to board train No. 131 to Kaohsiung. 12.00 noon – The HSR journey is a delight. The carriages are clean and simply laid out. The smiling hostesses pass by, gracefully offering food and beverages, and the conductor politely checks my ticket. The train quietly whizzes through the Taiwanese countryside at 300 kilometers per hour,
leaving me with just enough time to have a short nap before it pulls in at Zuoying, location of Kaohsiung’s HSR station, just 96 minutes after departing from Taipei! I find my way to the adjoining Kaohsiung MRT (KMRT) station and take the Red Line to Formosa Boulevard Station, six stations south of Zuoying.
2.10 p.m. – Formosa Boulevard Station is the interchange station for the two KMRT lines. But it is not just a place to rush through to catch your connecting train, for it houses the world’s largest stained-glass installation, the Dome of Light. Created by Italian artist Narcissus Quagliata, this stunning piece of art is divided into four sections: Water, Earth, Light, and Fire. I gaze up and lose myself in the mythical universe depicted in this truly epic mural.
Arriving in Kaohsiung
Travel in Taiwan
May • June 2010 49
Excited to be in Kaohsiung
S
NEW PERSPECTIVES
Stairway to Former British Consulate
3.00 p.m. – Having paid NT$15 to board the ferry, I make my way to the upper deck to watch the comings and goings of the harbor. It’s filled with crafts of all sizes, including a few container ships that seem to be parked in the middle of the harbor. With so
much traffic, it’s not surprising to learn that the Port of Kaohsiung is the 6thlargest container port in the world.
3.20 p.m. – I’m now on Qijin, a long, narrow island which serves as the outer wall of Kaohsiung Harbor. Just outside the ferry terminal I see several bike-rental shops displaying all sorts of pedal-powered vehicles for hire. This is a popular way to get around the island, but I choose to stay on my feet to get the slowest and closest possible look at what’s on offer. I soon encounter one of Qijin’s specialty foods – tomato salad with a rather sweet soy sauce and ginger dressing. I’m also lucky enough to run into an ice-cream vendor selling suspicious-looking chocolate ice-cream in pink containers shaped like toilet bowls. At least it tasted like chocolate….
3:50 p.m.
3:20 p.m.
2:40 p.m. 2.40 p.m. – The ticking clock brings me back to reality and I hurry off to catch the train bound for the western terminus of the Yellow Line, Sizihwan Station. It’s a six-minute journey to the station and a 10-minute walk from there to the Gushan Ferry Pier, from where ferries depart for Qijin Island. Feeling a little peckish, I partake of some tasty snacks from a roadside stall; small cakes with fillings such as custard, taro, sweet potato and, most unusually, shaved ice.
3.50 p.m. – It’s time to relax at
the beach. I sit and look out over the people playing about on the beach on the ocean side of Qijin and watch the ships drifting slowly across the horizon. It feels like the pace of Kaohsiung, though a big, busy city, is a lot slower than that of Taipei, and I think how lucky the residents here are to have the ocean right at their doorstep. I wander back toward the ferry pier, passing numerous seafood restaurants with their fresh catch on display. Many of the fish look tropical, with beautiful fluorescent colors and intricate designs that boggle the imagination.
4.45 p.m. – I’m back on the ferry now, feeling the cool wind on my face as the sun begins its descent. It’s a short return
On the ferry to Qijin Island
50 May • June 2010
Travel in Taiwan
Sunset at Xizi Bay
Photos / Sunny Su
6.00 p.m. – The view from the top
of the hill is a tremendous panorama of
Relaxing at Qijin Beach
8:20 p.m.
5.30 p.m. – Sitting on the seaside wall facing west, I am joined by others who are gathering to watch the sunset. After a peaceful few minutes I walk south a few hundred meters to where a stairway leads up a hill to the Former British Consulate at Takao. A couple of tour buses loaded with Chinese tourists has just arrived, and the stairway is busy as we all make our way up, sun hovering above the horizon.
6:40 p.m.
5:30 p.m. journey and I’m soon walking through a tunnel toward the picturesque campus of National Sun Yat-sen University. I walk through the grounds, with students gliding past on their bikes, and on through their sports fields to the coast.
Dinner with spectacular harbor view
the Taiwan Strait, Xizi Bay, Kaohsiung’s port, and the sparkling lights of Kaohsiung City. After breathing in the gorgeous vista, I turn my attention to the historic building and the small museum facility inside. The museum display relates how this grand, colonialstyle consulate site was built by the British in 1865. Ownership and function changed more than a few times before the building was finally made into a museum and designated a 2nd Class Historical Site by the Ministry of the Interior. Curiously, a lot of the space in the museum is currently given over to a Beatles exhibition; their hometown, Liverpool, is a sister city of Kaohsiung.
6.40 p.m. – Part of the historic building is taken up by a popular café with a large outdoor dining area
overlooking the city and harbor. The café offers five different main courses and a range of cakes, snacks, coffees, teas, juices, and beer. It also offers its own take on the classic British afternoon tea, consisting of a three-layered tray of cake and biscuits, fresh fruit, and club sandwiches as well as two non-alcoholic beverages of your choice for NT$390. I like the look of the afternoon-tea set, and although it is usually only served until 5 pm, I am lucky enough to get it. I tuck into the club sandwiches with relish whilst sipping on a cool glass of fruit tea.
8.20 p.m. – Feeling fully satisfied and refreshed after the nice meal, I reluctantly set off back down the hill to the seaside at Xizi Bay. This is a famous spot for sweethearts, as the “U” shapes in the wall here are just large enough
Peculiar ice-cream
Travel in Taiwan
May • June 2010 51
NEW PERSPECTIVES Back in Taipei
9.00 p.m. – It seems I was too
distracted on my walk, and I now realize I will be cutting it very fine if I want to make my 9.30 pm high-speed train back to Taipei. The helpful lady at the MRT Sizihwan Station information desk tells me the travel time to Zuoying Station is 20 minutes, not including the waiting time here and at the interchange at Formosa Boulevard Station. Oh no! Am I going to lose my race against the clock? 9.03 p.m. – The train arrives at
11:18 p.m.
9:03 p.m.
9:00 p.m. to fit two bodies facing the ocean. I continue round the bay, walking slowly and sometimes stopping to watch fishermen cast off from a jetty onto the dark sea.
9.13 p.m. – The train arrives. With a 14-minute ride to Zuoying, I will have three minutes to get from the MRT station to the HSR station and board the No. 278 train. I steel myself for an all-out sprint.
empty escalator. Breathing hard, my legs are starting to hurt and I’m cursing that last club sandwich I ate. With my ticket ready I rush through the turnstile, and as I bound down the final escalator I hear the whirring sound of the train signaling that the doors are about to close. I call out to the conductor, who beckons me on and shouts for me to hurry up at the same time. I collapse into my carriage as the doors close. The train leaves the station.
9.27 p.m. – The train doors open at Zuoying and I rush out, clamber up the – luckily –empty escalator, produce my token at the turnstile, and sprint outside to cross the small lane and sprint into the HSR station. I hurry up another
11.18 p.m. – After another smooth journey along the length of Taiwan, I’m back in Taipei – exhausted but content. I have completed my mission, visiting Taiwan’s two most important cities in one day.
Sizihwan. I close my eyes and hope for a delay on the High Speed Rail.
9.09 p.m. – I’m at Formosa Boulevard Station. Where is the train to Zuoying!!??
ENGLISH & CHINESE
52 May • June 2010
Travel in Taiwan
中正紀念堂 打狗英國領事館 鼓山渡輪站 龍山寺 國家音樂廳 國立中山大學
FORMER BRITISH CONSULATE OF TAKAO 打狗英國領事館
國家戲劇院
ADD: 20 Lianhai Rd., Gushan District,
旗津島 西子灣 左營
Kaohsiung City TEL: (07 ) 52 50271 WEBSITE: w w w. k h h u k . o rg .t w
Photos / Sunny Su
Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall Former British Consulate at Takao Gushan Ferry Pier Longshan Temple National Concert Hall National Sun Yat-sen University National Theater Qijin Island Xizi Bay Zuoying
TAIPEI HOTELS Pacific Business Center Office, Meeting, Dining, Accommodation Guests staying at the Hotel Royal Taipei on Zhongshan Road can now take advantage of special offer. A special 70-minute relaxation treatment at the Royal SPA is available 20% off the normal rate. This is a treatment that pampers all your senses and helps to restore a balanced feeling of well-being. Relaxed and refreshed you then will be more than ready to continue your journey. The professional staff of the hotel will take care of any tension and fatigue you might feel and your body and soul will be reinvigorated like never before! Whole-body relaxation treatment – Original price: NT$2,500; 20% discount: NT$2,000
This March, a new international-standard hotel has been opened in Xinzhuang, Taipei County. The Chateau de Chine, a member of the L’Hotel de Chine Group, which operates stylish and modern hotels around Taiwan, features 145 guestrooms with nine different designs, providing special environment for business and leisure travelers alike. The interior design combines oriental furniture garnished with French motifs. The lighting and color scheme of each room remain subtle yet
If you want to make use of the SPA services, tell the hotel staff when checking in.
Chateau de Chine The Pacific Business Center in Taipei’s modern East District caters to the special needs of guests who come to town for business rather than pleasure. The hotel is just a stone’s throw away from the Taipei World Trade Center, Taipei 101, the Xinyi Commercial Area, and the Lingjiang Street Tourist Night Market. It offers business travelers an intimate place to work and relax and it pays special attention to providing a personal service that leaves nothing to be desired, Providing multipurpose conference rooms, arranging for professional secretarial and translation services, and offering state-ofthe art equipment for presentations and other forms of communication are this hotel’s bread and butter. Pacific Business Center (太平洋商務中心) Add: 11F, 495 Guangfu S. Rd., Taipei City 110 (110台北市信義區光復南路495號11樓) Tel: (02) 8780-8000 Fax: (02) 8780-5000 Website: www.businesscenter.com.tw
A New Grand Hotel in Greater Taipei
Hotel Royal Taipei (台北老爺大酒店) Add: 37-1, Zhongshan N. Rd., Sec. 2, Taipei City (台北市中山北路二段37之一號) Tel: (02) 2542-3266 Fax: (02) 2543-4897 Website: www.royal-taipei.com.tw
stylish, generating a comfortable ambience that puts guests at ease and creates a home away from home. The hotel also provides various recreational amenities and services for guests, including a fitness center, a social lounge, and a VIP lounge. Fine fusion cuisine is served at Joie Café while the while Cantonese dim sum and other refined Chinese specialties can be experienced at Paradise Cantonese Restaurant. The hotel has also a wide range of facilities for business meetings and banquets.
Chateau de Chine (新莊翰品) Add: 82, Zhongzheng Rd., Xinzhuang
Hotel Royal Taipei SPA and Accommodation Offer
City, Taipei County (台北縣新莊市中正路82號) Tel: (02) 2998-7699 Fax: (02) 8994-3000 Website: www.chateaudechine.com
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HOTEL INFORMATION
Hotels of Taiwan
V
isitors to Taiwan have a wide range of choice when it comes
to accommodation. From five-star luxury hotels that meet the highest international standards, to affordable business hotels, to hot-spring and beach resort hotels, to privately-run homestays located in the countryside there is a place to stay that satisfies every traveler’s needs. What all hotels of Taiwan – small and big, expensive and affordable – have in common is that serve and hospitality are always of the highest standards. The room rates in the following list have been checked for each hotel, but
No. of Rooms: 487 (Suites: 57) Room Rates: Single/DBL NT$ 5,700 – 11,000 Suite NT$ 15,000 – 28,000 President: Johnson Chiang Desk Personnel Speak: English, French, Spanish, and Japanese Restaurants: Western, Cantonese, Northern China Style Dumplings, tea house, coffee shop Special Features: Grand Ballroom, conference rooms for 399 people, 10 breakout rooms, business center, fitness center, sauna, Olympic-size swimming pool, tennis courts, billiards
No. of Rooms: 203 Room Rates: Deluxe Room Business Room Executive Deluxe Room Boss Suite Premier Suite
Taipei 台 北
General Manager: Linda Chu
Cantonese, Shanghainese, Steakhouse & Teppanyaki, Lounge Bar, Fusion Cafe, Cont. Buffet, Penthouse, Chinese, Japanese
Special Features: Most spacious rooms
in Taipei, rooftop swimming pool, sauna, rec. center, full service resort spa, wireless Internet, executive business center, 24-hour room service, ballroom and convention facilities seating 8 to 1000 people, high-fashion shopping arcade & DFS, nonsmoking & ladies’ floor. 41 Chung Shan (Zhongshan) N. Rd., Sec. 2, Taipei City, 104
Desk Personnel Speak: Chinese, English Special Features: Free wireless acess, VIP lounge, private meeting rooms and secretarial services, private office rental services, high-speed ADSL broadband Internet, non-smoking floors, safety deposit box, laundry service, limousine service, airport transportation, basement parking, gym
11F, 495 Guangfu S. Rd., Xinyi District, Taipei City 110
www.grandformosa.com.tw
www.businesscenter.com.tw
Taipei 台 北
台 北 花 園 大 酒 �� 店
Superior Room Premier Room Deluxe Room Junior Suite Garden Suite
General Manager: Te Yao
Restaurants:
www.grand-hotel.org
NT$ 7,000 NT$ 8,000 NT$ 9,000 NT$ 10,000 NT$ 16,000
(All rates are subject to 10% service charge)
Restaurants: La Fusion Restaurant,
La Fusion Bakery, Hanazono Japanese Restaurant, La Fusion Bar, La Fusion Deli
Special Features:
83 Civic Boulevard, Sec. 3, Taipei City, 104 104台北市市民大道三段8 3號
1, Zhonghua Rd. Sec. 2, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City 10065
Tel: 02.8772.8800 Fax: 02.8772.1010 E-mail: info@miramargarden.com.tw
Tel: 886.2.2314.6611 Fa x: 886.2.2314.5511 E-mail: fo@taipeigarden.com.tw
www.miramargarden.com.tw
www.taipeigarden.com.tw
54
English, Japanese, Chinese
Tel: 02.8780.8000 Fax: 02.8780.5000 E-mail: pbc.taipei@msa.hinet.net
Fitness Center, Business Center, Conference & Dining Facilities; (Rooms Facilities) 32” LCD TV/Pay Broadband Internet Access/ Multi Channel Satellite TV with Domestic and Foreign Programming/En-suite Shower and Bath/TOTO Washlet
2010_05-06_飯店名錄.indd
Desk Personnel Speak:
Tel: 02.2523.8000 Fax: 02.2523.2828
TAIPEI GARDEN HOTEL
Single NT$ 11,000 Double NT$ 11,500 Suite NT$ 16,500 ~ 99,000
No. of Rooms: 67 rooms, 28 offices, 4 meeting rooms Room Rates: Superior Room NT$ 5,200+10% Executive Single NT$ 5,600+10% Executive Twin NT$ 6,200+10% Excellency Room NT$ 7,200+10%
104台北市中山北路二段41號
Special Features: Business center, luxury executive floor, multifunctional room, Internet service, 32-inch plasma TV, garden terrace, bar, fitness club, outdoor pool, sauna, spa, aromatherapy, car park
May • June 2010
太平洋商務中心台北會館 Taipei 台 北
Tel: 886.2.2886.8888 Fax: 886.2.2885.2885
Japanese, English, Chinese
Restaurants: Rain Forest Café, Garden Terrace, Lounge 81
Room Rates:
PACIFIC BUSINESS CENTER TAIPEI
110 台北市信義 區 光復 南路 49 5號 11樓
Desk Personnel Speak:
Desk Personnel Speak: English, Japanese, Mandarin, Taiwanese, Cantonese
No. of Rooms: 538
10 4 61台北市中山北 路 四段1號
No. of Rooms: 242 Room Rates: NT$ 7,000 NT$ 8,000 NT$ 9,000 NT$ 13,000 NT$ 18,000
Taipei 台 北
台北晶華酒店
1 Chong shan N. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City, 10461 R.O.C
Room rates at the hotels apply.
美麗信花園酒店
Taipei 台 北
圓山大飯店
are subject to change without notice.
MIRAMAR GARDEN TAIPEI
GRAND FORMOSA REGENT TAIPEI
THE GRAND HOTEL
10 0 6 5台北市中正 區中 華路二 段 1號
CAESAR PARK HOTEL TAIPEI 台北凱撒大飯店
Taipei 台 北
No. of Rooms: 406 Room Rates:
Superior Room Deluxe Room Double Double Room Executive Suite Deluxe Family Suite Caesar Suite Extra Bed
NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$
8,200 9,000 12,000 15,000 18,000 50,000 1,000
(All rates are subject to 10% service charge)
Desk Personnel Speak:
Chinese, English, Japanese
Restaurants: Checkers, Dynasty Restaurant, CAESAR Mall Special Features: Banquet/Conference Room, Business Centre, Health Club, CAESAR Spa, Roof Garden, Safe Deposit Box, Valet Parking, Valet Dry Cleaning, Laundry, Room Service, Internet Service
COSMOS HOTEL 天成大飯店
Taipei 台 北
No. of Rooms: 226 Room Rates:
Superior Single NT$ 3,200 ~ 3,500
Deluxe Single NT$ 4,000 ~ 5,000 Superior Twin NT$ 4,000 Deluxe Triple NT$ 4,500 Deluxe Twin NT$ 4,800 ~ 5,000 Deluxe Suite NT$ 7,000 ~ 10,000 Family Room NT$ 4,300
Desk Personnel Speak: Chinese, Japanese, English, Cantonese Restaurants: Shanghainese,
Cantonese, Taiwanese snacks, Jiangzhe cuisine, Gelato Café, coffee shop
Special Features: Conference rooms,
flower shop, barber shop, souvenir shop, parking area 43, Chunghsiao (Zhongxiao) W. Rd., Sec. 1, Taipei City, 100
38 Chunghsiao W. Rd., Sec. 1, Taipei City, 100 100台北市忠孝西路一段3 8號
(MRT Taipei Main Station, Exit 3) 100台北市忠孝東路 一段4 3號 (台北捷運總站3號出口)
Tel: 02.2311.5151 Fax: 02.2331.9944 E-mail: info_tpe@caesarpark.com.t w
Tel: 02.2361.7856 Fa x: 02.2311.8921 Reser vation Hotline: 02.2311.8901 Reser vation Fa x: 02.2311.8902 E-mail: cosmos@cosmos-hotel.com.tw
taipei.caesarpark.com.tw
www.cosmos-hotel.com.tw
Travel in Taiwan
2010/04/21
下午 04:39:01
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HOTEL INFORMATION
GLORIA PRINCE HOTEL TAIPEI 華 泰 王 子大 飯 店
Taipei 台 北
No. of Rooms: 220 Room Rates: Deluxe / Single / Twin & Double NT$ 7,800~8,500 Suite NT$ 9,500~20,000 Desk Personnel Speak: Chinese, English, Japanese Restaurants: La Fontaine (Western), Chiou Hwa (Chinese)
SUNWORLD DYNASTY HOTEL TAIPEI Taipei 台 北
王朝大酒店
No. of Rooms: 738 Room Rates: Deluxe Room NT$ 7,700
Premier Room Junior Suite Deluxe Suite Executive Suite
NT$ 8,200 NT$ 9,200 NT$ 11,500 NT$ 17,500
EXECUTIVE CLUB FLOOR
Deluxe Room Premier Room Deluxe Suite Executive Suite
NT$ 9,000 NT$ 9,500 NT$ 15,000 NT$ 21,000
Desk Personnel Speak: Chinese, Japanese, English
Special Features: Coffee Shop, Fitness Center, Business Center, laundry service, meeting and banquet facilities, non-smoking floor, parking lot, airport transfer service
369 Lin-sen (Linsen) N. Rd., Taipei City, 104 104台 ��� 北 市 林森 ��北 ������ 路 3���� 69� 號
Tel: 02.2581.8111
Restaurants: Le Parc Café, Magnolia Court,
Canton Palace
Special Features: 738 large-size guest
rooms with high ceilings, incl. 42 suites. Grand lobby entrance with magnificent atrium. Outdoor swimming pool heated during winter. Fully equipped gym, fitness center, sauna, and aerobics room. Fully equipped business center. Hi-speed broadband Internet access. Safety deposit box. Express laundry service. Limousine service, airport pick-up. State-ofthe-art audiovisual equipment. 100 Dun Hua North Road, Taipei Taiwan R.O.C. 台北市敦化北路100號
Fax: 02.2581.5811, 2568-2924
Tel: 02.2719.7199 Fa x: 02.2545.9288 E-mail: bc@sunworlddynasty.com.tw
www.gloriahotel.com
www.sunworlddynasty.com
SEASONS HOTEL GROUP 皇家四季飯店集團
Taipei 台 北
SEASONS HOTEL CLASSIC
NO. OF ROOMS: 64 ROOM RATES: NT$ 5,000 ~ 8,000
SEASONS HOTEL ROYAL NO. OF ROOMS: 49
ROOM RATES: NT$ 5,500 ~ 9,500
SEASONS HOTEL HOT SPRING/VENUS HOT SPRING HOUSE NO. OF ROOMS: 30/32 ROOM RATES: NT$ 8,000 ~ 11,000/NT$ 3,500 (All rates are subject to 10% service charge)
Desk Personnel Speak:
Chinese, English, Japanese
Special Features: L'OCCITANE Bath &
Shower amenities, Italian Jacuzzi bathtub (Classic & Royal), complimentary in-room Internet access/ all TV channels, complimentary Internet/coffee/ tea/instant noodles service at lounge area, free shuttle bus to MRT Stations
326/330 Nanjing W. Rd., Taipei City 103 (Seasons Hotel Classic/Royal) 台北市南京西路326/330號 (經典館/皇家館) 26, Zhongshan Rd., Beitou, Taipei City 112 (Seasons Hotel Hot Spring) 台北市北投區中山路26號 Reservation Hotline: 886.2. 2558.6488 E-mail: rsvn@taiwanseasonshotel.com
www.taiwanseasonshotel.com
SINJHUANG CHATEAU DE CHINE HOTEL 新莊翰品酒店
Taipei 台北
TAIPEI GALA HOTEL
FORTUNE HYATT HOTEL
Taipei 台 北
慶泰大飯店 No. of Rooms: 160 Room Rates:
Single Room NT$ Deluxe Single Room NT$ Deluxe Twin Room NT$ Suite Room NT$
3,800 4,000 4,200 5,600
Desk Personnel Speak:
English, Japanese, Chinese
Restaurants: Golden Ear Restaurant (Western semi buffet); Hong Kong Restaurant (Cantonese food) Special Features: Business Center, meeting rooms, airport transfer service, parking lot, laundry service, free Internet access, LCD TV, DVD player, personal safety box, mini bar, private bathroom with separate shower & bath tub, hair dryer
Standard Room Superior Room Superior Triple Room Superior Family Room Deluxe Room Deluxe Triple Room Deluxe Family Room Haiyatt Executive Suite Fortune Executive Suite
55
NT$ 3,400 NT$ 3,700 NT$ 4,600 NT$ 5,800 NT$ 4,300 NT$ 6,000 NT$ 7,200 NT$ 9,000 NT$ 10,800
Desk Personnel Speak:
English, Japanese, Cantonese, Mandarin, Taiwanese.
Restaurants: Buffet breakfast, English-style afternoon tea, Western roof garden restaurant Special Features: Business center,
meeting rooms, gym, car park, multifunctional banquet hall, wireless broadband Internet access, limousine service between hotel and airport / high-speed rail station 62 Chongqing N. Rd., Sec. 1, Taipei City, 103
186 Songjiang Rd., Taipei City,104 104台北市松江路18 6號
103台北市重 慶北路一段62號
Tel: 02.2541.5511 Fax: 02.2531.3831 Reservation Hotline: 02.2541.6888 E-mail: galahtl@ms18.hinet.net
Tel: 02.2555.1122 Fax: 02.2556.6217 Reservation Hotline: 02.2559.0723 Reservation Fax: 02.2559.0720 E-mail: info@fortunehaiyatthotel.com
www.galahotel.com.tw
www.fortunehaiyatthotel.com
SOUTH GARDEN HOTELS AND RESORTS 南方莊園渡假� 飯 �� 店
Jhongli 中 壢
ONSEN PAPAWAQA Miaoli 苗 栗
泰安觀止
No. of Rooms: 145 Room Rates: Superior Single Room NT$ 5,800 Superior Twin Room NT$ 6,000 Business Single Room NT$ 6,600 Deluxe Single Room NT$ 6,800 Deluxe Twin Room NT$ 7,000 Superior Family Room NT$ 7,200 Deluxe Family Room NT$ 7,600 Executive Suite NT$ 12,000 Chateau de Chine Suite NT$ 20,000 General Manager: Willis Lin Desk Personnel Speak: English,Chinese, Japanese Special Features:Conference/banquet hall accommodating up to 200 people, gym, sauna, recreation, VIP lounge, business center, free Internet access, laundry service, intelligent room control system, limousine rental, and pick up service
No. of Rooms: 111 Room Rates:
82, Jhongzheng Rd., Sinjhuang City, Taipei County 24243, Taiwan 24 24 3 台北 縣 新 莊 市中正 路 8 2 號 Tel: 02.8994.1234 Fax: 02.8994.3000
8 Shuzih Rd., Jhongli City, Taoyuan County320
Tel: 037.941.777 FA X: 037.941.952 E-mail: ser vice@papawaga.com
www.chateaudechine.com
E-mail: ser vice@southgarden.com.t w
www.southgarden.com.tw
www.papawaqa.com.tw
South Suite Family Suite Corner Room Garden Room Deluxe Family Room Scenic Room Superior Family Room Deluxe Room Private Hot Spring Quarter
NO. OF ROOMS: 68 ROOM RATES:
NT$ 28,000 NT$ 12,000 NT$ 9,800 NT$ 9,200 NT$ 8,800 NT$ 7,800 NT$ 7,800 NT$ 7,200 NT$ 2,200 (2hrs)
Guanxing Room Guanyue Room Guanzhi Room Guanyun Room Guanshui Room Guanzhi Suite Guanri Suite Guanshan Suite
NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$
6,600 7,500 8,500 9,900 13,500 10,000 11,000 13,500
Q U N S H A N V ILLA
Desk Personnel Speak:
English, Japanese, Chinese
Restaurants: The South, The Garden, Cheers Bar, The Avignon Banquet Hall, Nice Conference Center Special Features: Hot Spring & Kurhaus
Center, Recreation Center, Hot Spring & Sauna Center, ecological park, 200 free parking spaces, shuttle service to airport and high-speed rail station, broadband Internet access
320桃園縣中壢市樹籽路8號
Tel: 886.3.420.2122 Fax: 886.3.420.7736
Guanwu Room NT$ 12,000 Guanwu Suite NT$ 15,000 Guanwu Suite NT$ 18,000
Special Features: Restaurant, meeting
room, open-air hot-spring pool, private hot-spring pools, open-air swimming pool, SPA treatment, multi-functional entertainment room, gym, WII game, car park, hiking trails
58 Yuandun, Jinshuei Village, Tai-an Township, Miaoli County 苗栗縣泰安鄉錦水村圓墩58號
Travel in Taiwan
2010_05-06_飯店名錄.indd
Taipei 台 北
福君海悅大飯店 No. of Rooms: 200 Room Rates:
May • June 2010
2010/04/21
下午 04:39:29
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HOTEL INFORMATION
FLEUR DE CHINE HOTEL 雲品酒店
Sun Moon Lake 日月潭
No. of Rooms: 211 Room Rates: Mountain View King Room NT$ 11,500 ~ 12,500
ountain View Two Queen Room NT$ 11,500 ~ 12,500 M Zen Mountain View Room NT$ 11,500 ~ 12,500 Lake View King Room NT$ 13,000 ~ 14,000 Lake View Two Queen Room NT$ 13,000 ~ 14,000 Washiki Lake View Room NT$ 13,000 ~ 14,000 Royal Lake View Suite NT$ 16,000 ~ 17,000 Governor Lake View Suite NT$ 18,000 Summit Lake View Suite NT$ 88,000 Penthouse Suite NT$ 120,000
General Manager: Wayne Ho Desk Personnel Speak: English,Chinese, Japanese Special Features:270∘Panorama Lake
View Sky Lounge, Mountain Mist Spring, Zen House, Water World, aromatherapy, pythoncidere walk, children’s playground, outdoor circular concourse, pet room, boutique, gym, business center, banquet/conference hall, wireless broadband internet services, intelligent room control system, balconies with scenic views, individual hot-spring pools in room, pickup from HSR station
ALISHAN HOUSE 阿 里 山 賓 館�
HUALIEN CITY CLASSIC RESORT HOTEL Chiayi 嘉 義
花 蓮 經 典 假 日 飯 店�
No. of Rooms: 35
No. of Rooms: 79
Room Rates:
Room Rates:
(Prices above not including 10% Service Charge)
Scenery Suite NT$ 6,600 Honey Suite NT$ 6,600 Fragrant Suite NT$ 8,600 Superior Suite NT$ 9,500 VIP Suite NT$ 12,000
General Manager: Mr. Jen-Shing Chen Desk Personnel Speak:
Chinese, English, Japanese
Restaurants: Chinese, Café, Courtyard Special Features:
Broadband Internet access in guestrooms, business center, Souvenir Shop, Gazebo, 1950’s dance hall, foot massage
16 Chunlin Village, Alishan Township, Chiayi County, 605
Hualien 花 蓮
Standard Room Superior Twin Superior Triple Superior Double Twin Superior Suite Classic Suite
NT$ 4,000 NT$ 4,200 NT$ 4,800 NT$ 5,600 NT$ 6,000 NT$ 10,000
Desk Personnel Speak:
Chinese, English, Japanese
Restaurants:Chinese, Western, and Inter-
national cuisine, afternoon tea
Special Features:1/2F public area with
unlimited Internet access, broadband Internet access in guestrooms, notebooks available at meeting room, free self-help coffee and tea, free parking, central location (5-min. walk to railway station), pick-up service, projector and screen available at conference room, newspapers and magazines, LCD screen TV-sets
Tel: 049.285.5500 Fax: 049.285.6600
E-mail: office@alishanhouse.com.tw
www.fleurdechinehotel.com
www.alishanhouse.com.tw
www.classichotel.com.tw
5 5 5 4 6 南 投 縣 魚 池 鄉日月潭中正 路2 3 號
2010_05-06_飯店名錄.indd
56
605嘉義縣阿里山鄉香林村16號 ALISHAN Tel: 05.267.9811 Fax: 05.267.9596 TAIPEI Tel: 02.2563.5259 Fax: 02.2536.5563
蘭城晶英酒店
Yilan 宜 蘭
NO. OF ROOMS: 193 ROOM RATES:
139 Guolian 5th Rd., Hualien City, 970 970 花蓮市國聯五路139號 Tel: 03.835.9966 Fax: 03.835.9977 Reservation: 03.833.6066 E-mail: service@classichotel.com.tw
23, Zhongzheng Rd., Sun Moon Lake, Yuchi Township, Nantou County 55546
SILKS PLACE YILAN
Lan Zone Holiday Zone Sky Villa Zone Boutique Zone Corner Zone
NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$
9,600 13,600~30,000 13,600~40,000 14,000~30,000 22,000~80,000
(Hotel rooms divided into five specialized zones using the concept of “a hotel within a hotel”) (All rates are subject to 10% service charge)
DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK:
English, Japanese, Chinese
RESTAURANTS:
Mix Gourmet Buffet Restaurant, The Lounge, Red Lantern Chinese Restaurant
Special Features: International Ballroom, Multi-functional Meeting Rooms, Conference Service Center, Events Management Service Center, Power Fitness Club, Wellspring Spa, Outdoor Garden, Safe Deposit, Valet Parking, Laundry Service, Free Internet Access
36 Minquan Rd., Sec. 2 Yilan City, 260 260宜蘭市民權路二段36號
Tel: 03.935.1000 Fax: 03.935.4000 E-mail: rsvn@silksplace-yilan.com.tw
www.silksplace-yilan.com.tw
2010/04/21
下午 04:39:38
英文_9905-6_封底_4_30.pdf
2010/04/30
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ISSN:18177964
GPN:2009305475
200 NTD