Travel in Taiwan (No.45, 2011 5/6)

56

No. 45, 2011

/

Back to Nature

Eco-Exploration in Southwest Taiwan

THE BEST ROUTES

From the Easternmost to the Northernmost Tip

HISTORY

Legacy of the Japanese Presence In Hualien

TEA COUNTRY

Why Pinglin is All about Tea

Hakka Tung Blossom Festival Performance Workshop Troupe CafĂŠs and Teashops of Kang Qing Long Weaving in Wulai The Official Bimonthly English Magazine of the Taiwan Tourism Bureau.

I S B N :1817 7 9 6 4 Website: ht tp: //t aiwan. net .t w

Welcome to Taiwan!

Dear Traveler, A mounta inous subtropical island, Ta iwan is blessed w ith an incredibly diverse natural environment that makes it a great destination for travelers in search of ecological treasures. There is much to discover indeed, especially when it comes to birds and butterf lies, with more than 400 species of each to be found. Conserving the local natural environment is taken seriously here, with effective measures in place to protect endangered f lora and fauna and to educate the people about the importance of a healthy natural environment.

Since 1979 eight national parks and 13 national scenic areas have been established in Taiwan to protect the most precious areas and at the same time make them accessible to visitors. The Dapeng Bay National Scenic Area is one example of how the coexistence of the natural environment and human recreation can be realized; its saltwater lagoon and small offshore coral island offer visitors a wide range of recreational activities and eco-exploration tours.

If you want to f ind out why many couples in love choose the north and northeast coast of Taiwan as their preferred destination for wedding-photo shoots, just follow the coast-hugging highway to explore the region’s many scenic spots. You’ll come across picturesque lighthouses on craggy promontories, white-sand beaches suitable for all sorts of water activities, stretches of coast with bizarre rock formations, and small f ishing villages with excellent seafood restaurants.

Hual ien is best known for its world-class scenic wonder, Taroko Gorge, a must-see for any visitor to Taiwan. Apart from its natural scenery, however, Hualien also has its share of cultural attractions, notably those of the region’s indigenous peoples but also relics lef t behind by the Japanese, who ruled the island for most of the f irst half of the last centur y. There are many historic sites to be explored and old stories of the Japanese in eastern Taiwan to be heard.

Wherever you go on your next trip to Taiwan and whatever you do, I wish you a pleasure-f illed experience!

Janice Seh-Jen Lai Director General Tourism Bureau, MOTC, R.O.C.

CONTENTS

May ~ June 2011

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28 ,

Publisher Janice Seh-Jen Lai Editing Consultants

Producer Vision Int l Publ. Co., Ltd. Address Rm. 5, 10F, 2 Fuxing N. Rd., Taipei, 104 Taiwan

David W. J. Hsieh, Wayne Hsi-Lin Liu

Tel: 886-2-2711-5403 Fax: 886-2-2721-2790 E-mail: vision@tit.com.tw General Manager Wendy L. C. Yen Deputy General Manager Frank K. Yen Editor in Chief Johannes Twellmann English Editors Rick Charette, Richard Saunders DIR. OF PLANNING & EDITING J oe Lee MANAGING EDITOR Sunny Su Editors Aska Chi, Aysel Then, Gemma Cheng, Min-Jing Yin, Vivian Liu ick Charette, Steven Crook, Richard Saunders, Joe Contributors R Henley, Linda Chu, Christine Harris PHOTOGRAPHERS Jen Guo-Chen, Bobby Wu, Audrey Wang ART DIRECTOR Sting Chen Designers Ting Ting Wang, Daemon Lee, Maggie Song, Rinka Lin Administrative Dept Hui-chun Tsai, Nai-jen Liu, Xiou Mieng Jiang incent Lin, Pamela Leu, Stacy Cai, Mamie Yang, Paul Advertising Dept V H. Chang 886-2-2721-5412 Advertising Hotline +

Publishing Organization

Tourism Bureau, Ministry of Transportation and Communications Address

9F, 290 Zhongxiao E. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei, 104, Taiwan Tel: 886-2-2717-3737 Fax: 886-2-2771-7036 E-mail: tbroc@tbroc.gov.tw Website: http://taiwan.net.tw

台 灣 觀 光 雙 月 刊 Travel in Taiwan Bimonthly May/June Issue, 2011 www.tit.com.tw/vision/index.htm Copyright © 2011 Tourism Bureau. All rights reserved.

Reproduction in any form without written permission is prohibited.

Where you can pick up a copy of Travel in Taiwan Abroad

Offices of the Tourism Bureau in Tokyo, Osaka, Seoul, Hong Kong, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Frankfurt; Taiwan Representative Offices; Overseas Offices of the Ministry of Economic Affairs; Overseas Offices of the Central News Agency; onboard China Airlines, EVA Air and other selected international airways; selected travel agencies in Asia, North America, and Europe; and other organizations

ONLINE

Read the online version of Travel in Taiwan at www.zinio.com . Log in and search for "Travel in Taiwan". Or visit www.tit.com.tw/ vision/index.htm Waterfowl at Dapeng Bay’s Jialian Wetland (Photo by Bobby Wu)

In Taiwan

Tourism Bureau Visitor Center; Tourism Bureau; Taiwan Visitors Association; foreign representative offices in Taiwan, Tourism Bureau service counters at Taiwan Taoyuan Int’l Airport and Kaohsiung Int’l Airport, major tourist hotels; Taipei World Trade Center; VIP lounges of international airlines; major tourist spots in Taipei; visitor centers of cities and counties around Taiwan; offices of national scenic area administrations; public libraries

This magazine is printed on FSC certified paper. Any product with the FSC logo on it comes from a forest that has been responsibly maintained and harvested in a sustainable manner.

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62

56 FEATURE

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LET'S EAT 42 Tea Cuisine

— Tasting Delicious Dishes Made with Tea

Leaf and Tea Seed Oil

Eco-Tour: Dapeng Bay and Little Liuqiu — Tour — Eat — Stay — Buy

Big Bay & Small Island Three Culinary Treasures Staying on the Island Donggang Specialties

HISTORY

46 Hualien: A Living Relic — Exploring Remnants of the Japanese Occupation Period in Eastern Taiwan

20 Eco-Tour

— Five Ideas for Eco-Touring in Taiwan

1 Publisher�s Note 54 Peculiar Taiwan 4 News & Events around Taiwan 65 Festivals and Events 6 Concerts, Exhibitions, and Happenings

ON STAGE/OFF STAGE

LET'S GO OUT TONIGHT

Learning Experience

24

My Photo Tour 36 Off to the Beach!

Warm, Soothing, and Laid Back

— Photo Memories of a Trip to Fulong

— Places to Spend the Afternoon and Evening in Kang Qing Long District

THE BEST ROUTE 28

Riding

the Deuce

— Rolling Down Highway No. 2 along the Northern Coast

56 Performance Workshop

— Fountainhead of Modern Chinese Theater

60 Weaving in Wulai

— Learning Handicraft Basics from a Member of the Atayal Tribe

FOOD JOURNEY

FESTIVAL

— Visiting Pinglin, One of the Best Areas for Growing Tea in Taiwan

38 Hills Shrouded in Mist

62 Snow-White Delight

— Enjoying Beautiful Blossoms and Hakka Culture

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Travel in Taiwan

WHAT'S UP

Timeless Confucian Rituals at Taipei Confucius Temple

News & Events around Taiwan

Until July 23, the Taipei Confucius Temple has a regular schedule of Confucius Ceremony sacrificial performances, with morning shows (Tue to Sat 9~9:30 a.m.) of the dance and music of ancient China and afternoon sessions (Tue to Sat 3~3:30 p.m.) where visitors can don classical costumes and participate in performances. This is a great opportunity for visitors to enjoy traditional Confucian culture first-hand. For more info on the temple, visit www.ct.taipei.gov.tw.

Culture

Michelin Green Guide to Taiwan Earlier this year Michelin, the French tire maker and publisher of travel guides, unveiled its first tourist guide to Taiwan. The guide is divided into three parts: Planning Your Trip, Introduction to Taiwan, and Discovering Taiwan. All tourist attractions listed in the guide are rated with the same star system used in the famous Michelin restaurant guides.

A total of 38 places received the highest rating (three stars), among them manmade landmarks like Taipei 101 in Taipei and natural wonders such as Taroko Gorge. The guide is available at major bookstores in Taipei, including eslite and Kingstone, and at online book shops such as

amazon.com.

Books

History

Memorial Park Honoring Japanese Engineer In memory of Japanese civil engineer Yoichi Hatta (1886~1942), whose work contributed greatly to the success of a large-scale irrigation system in southern Taiwan, a memorial park is slated to be opened on May 8 this year near Wushantou Reservoir in Tainan County.

Completed 80 years ago, the Chia-Nan Irrigation System, with Wushantou Reservoir as its centerpiece, was Hatta’s most important engineering feat. Since its construction the water-distribution system has played a major role in irrigating some 150,000 hectares of farmland in Tainan and Chiayi counties. Wushantou Reservoir is part of the Siraya National Scenic Area (www.siraya-nsa.gov.tw).

The Taiwan Railway 1966-1970 Living in Taiwan from 1954 to 1970, American Loren Aandahi spent a significant amount of his time commuting by train between the cities of Hsinchu and Taichung during his youth. He fell in love with Taiwan’s railways and became a passionate railway photographer. Now, more than forty years after he left Taiwan to return to the U.S., he has compiled a fascinating book, “The Taiwan Railway 1966-1970,” which is filled with almost 200 precious color photographs from the early days of Taiwan’s “Economic Miracle” era of rapid development. The book is available at eslite and other major bookstore chains.

Books

Peng Bay Bridge Taiwan has its first drawbridge. Put in operation on March 27 this year, Peng Bay Bridge crosses the channel that connects Dapeng Bay lagoon in Pingtung County with the South China Sea. The bridge, a new landmark in the Dapeng Bay National Scenic Area, can be opened in just two minutes to let larger yachts pass through. For more info on the scenic area, visit www.dbnsa.gov.tw.

Landmarks

First and Only 5-Star Hotel in Taitung The small city of Taitung Hotels in southeast Taiwan has its first 5-star hotel. After receiving the coveted 5-star rating from the Tourism Bureau, the Formosan Naruwan Hotel is now officially the higheststandard accommodation option in Taitung. For more info on the hotel, visit www.naruwan-hotel.com.tw.

Among the World’s Best Showing yet again that it is one of the top hotels in the world, the Grand Hyatt Taipei has once again made it onto the exclusive Gold List of Condé Nast Traveler magazine this year. Evaluated by the readers of the magazine, the hotel received a high rating of 89.9 and earned its best ratings for service (91.7) and food (91.2). The Grand Hyatt Taipei (http://taipei.grand. hyatt.com) is the only hotel in Taiwan included in the list.

Hotels

Bus Ride/Boat Cruise in Taipei The world’s first carbon-free amphibious electric vehicle Transport is now in operation in Taipei. Named the “Thru Bus,” this Taiwan-made bus/boat, with a seating capacity of eight, has become a new member of the Blue Highway fleet of cruise vessels operating on the Danshui and Keelung rivers. The Thru Bus connects Miramar Entertainment Park and the Dazhi area, on its way passing through riverside parks and cruising on the Keelung River.

Tickets for a 30-minute ride are priced NT$250 for adults. For more info, visit www.thrubus.com (Chinese).

Travel Info

Read Travel in Taiwan Online!

Read this, Taiwan’s best English-language travel magazine, online and download it to your mobile device (iPhone, iPad, etc.) to have it handy any time in case you need some valuable travel info during your travels. All you have to do is create a free account on the online magazine service site “Zinio” (www.zinio.com) and then search for “Travel in Taiwan.” Reading the magazine online is free of cost.

Tell us what you think!

We, the producers of Travel in Taiwan, wish to improve our magazine with each issue and give you the best possible help when planning – or carrying out – your next trip to Taiwan. Tell us what you think by filling out our short online questionnaire at www.tit. com.tw/survey/travelintaiwan.html. Senders of the first ten completed questionnaires each issue will receive three free issues of Travel in Taiwan. Thank you very much for your feedback!

Airport Visitor Center Reopened At the end of this March, the newly refurbished Visitor InTourism formation Center in the Arrivals Lobby of Taipei Songshan Airport’s Terminal 2 was reopened. The center, one of 13 such info centers set up by the city government around Taipei, provides travelers arriving at the airport with professional and attentive service and valuable travel information about Taipei. The center is easily recognized by an stylized “i” sign and bright yellow colors.

?

Do You Know Taiwan?

If

you know the answers to the following

questions, you are most likely an experienced Taiwan traveler. If you don’t know the

answers, you can find them within the pages of this issue

of Travel in Taiwan.

1.

The island of Little Liuqiu is part of which national scenic area: Siraya, Dapeng Bay, or Southwest Coast?

(Find the answer on page 11)

2.

What is the name of the cape at the northernmost tip of Taiwan: Sandiao Cape, Bitou Cape, or Fugui Cape? (Find the answer on page 30)

3.

The town of Pinglin is known for the production of what type of tea: Baozhong tea, Tieguanyin tea, or High-Mountain tea?

(Find the answer on page 39)

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Travel in Taiwan Travel in Taiwan

CULTURE SCENE

Concerts, Exhibitions, and Happenings Taiwan has a diverse cultural scene, with art venues ranging from international-caliber concert halls and theaters to makeshift stages on temple plazas. Among Taiwan’s museums is the world-famous National Palace Museum as well as many smaller museums dedicated to different art forms and aspects of Taiwanese culture. Here is a brief selection of upcoming happenings. For more information, please visit the websites of the listed venues.

Taipei Zhongshan Hall

5/21

Taipei Chinese Orchestra: Flying High with Your Love

臺北市立國樂團－情定北市國 The Taipei Chinese Orchestra is planning an ambitious project, to be staged at the end of this year, which will combine Chinese traditional music with stageplay theatrics. Music lovers who don’t want to wait that long, however, can see preview excerpts of Flying High with Your Love on this night. Also on stage on May 21 will be acclaimed Finnish cellist Anssi Karttunen, tackling Germany-based composer Xiaoyong Chen's newest composition, Taiwan's very own Peking Opera diva Hai-Min Wei, and the queen of folk music from across the Taiwan Strait, Fei Song, presenting her rendering of Bing Zheng's erhu masterpiece. This will be the final event of this year’s Taipei Traditional Arts Festival.

5/20 ~ 5/22

National Theater (Experimental Theater)

WCdance: Small Nanguan 林文中舞團－小南管

“Small Nanguan” is the fourth part of the WCdance company’s Small series.

For this work, Lin Wen-chung, the company’s artistic director, has incorporated nanguan, a traditional style of music popular in Taiwan that is often played in the courtyards of old temples. With the Small series the company presents dance performances in smaller, more intimate spaces, which amplifies both the motions and the emotions conveyed by the dancers. Exploring the grace and spirit of nanguan music, Lin presents a remarkable combination of contemporary dance and traditional music.

1/22 ~ 7/17

National Palace Museum

The Tibetan Dragon Sutra: The Great Treasury of Buddhist Scriptures in the National Palace Museum 龍藏－院藏大藏經展

Consisting of six divisions with a total of 1,057 units, the Tibetan Dragon Sutra is a Tibetan translation of all “teachings” and “laws” by Sakyamuni, the founder of Buddhism. Among all Tibetan Buddhist sutras in the National Palace Museum’s collection it is this sutra, hand-written in gold ink and commissioned by the Qing Dynasty’s Emperor Kangxi in 1669, that attracts the most attention. With more than 50,000 leaves in 108 cases, the voluminous collection of manuscripts was written in standard Tibetan script with saturated gold pigment. The front and back boards were decorated with 756 Buddhas, gorgeously and solemnly painted in colors. The exquisite and elegant mounting also reveals the imperial style and taste. The exhibition is divided into two sections; along with the six divisions of the Sutra and its mounting accessories, two other sutras are also on display: (1) the Bkavvgyur Sutra, handwritten in Tibetan script in gold ink, and (2) the Tripitaka, printed in Manchu script in vermilion pigment.

3/5 ~ 6/5

Taipei Fine Arts Museum

Monet Garden 莫內花園

Claude Monet, the founder of French Impressionism, is famous for his works depicting outdoor scenes, his canvases often graced with cathedrals, haystacks, and water lilies. This exhibition showcases some of the famous scenery and flower paintings created by the great master in his garden in Giverny, accompanied by a selection of his other landscape paintings. Monet is praised as the artist most devoted to the ideas and ideals of Impressionism, and is recognized for his profound receptiveness to atmosphere and ability to recreate it on canvas. He departed from European oil-painting traditions by applying a new style and language in his works, playing a key role in the advancement of the modern-art movement.

6/2 ~ 6/5

National Theater (Experimental Theater)

Contemporary Jazz Dance Theater: Chicken Soup for the Soul II 爵代舞蹈劇場－心靈雞湯Ⅱ

Venues

Taipei International Convention Center（台北國際會議中心）

Taipei

( 台北市信義 路五段一 號 )

Taipei Zhongshan Hall （台北中山堂）

Add: 98, Yanping S. Rd., Taipei City

Like the popular book series Chicken Soup for the Soul, the dance performances by Contemporary Jazz Dance Theater inspire audiences by telling touching stories. In May last year the troupe successfully staged the first part of Chicken Soup for the Soul, wowing theater-goers with energetic movement, fun-filled scenes, and touching moments. With their intense performances, the dancers nurture the soul of spectators and show how one can identify and appreciate the wonderful things in life even when facing adversity.

( 台北市延平南 路 9 8 號 )

Nearest MRT Station: Ximen

Taipei International Convention Center （台北國際會議中心）

Add: 1, Xinyi Rd., Sec.5, Taipei City ( 台北市信義 路五段 1 號 )

Tel: (02) 2725-5200, ext. 3517, 3518 www.ticc.com.tw/ Nearest MRT Station: Taipei City Hall

National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall（國立中正紀念堂） Add: 21 Zhongshan S. Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市中山南 路 21 號 )

Taipei Arena

6/6

Russell Watson 2011 Live in Taipei 美聲傳奇羅素華生2011台北演唱會

Tel: (02) 2343-1100~3 www.cksmh.gov.tw Nearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall

National Concert Hall（國家音樂聽） National Theater（國家戲劇院） Add: 21-1 Zhongshan S. Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市中山南 路 21-1 號 )

The “people’s tenor” is coming back to Taiwan! Russell Watson, who has been declared by some to be the successor to the late Luciano Pavarotti, and has declared himself the “people’s tenor,” is today one of the world’s most popular tenors. His outstanding talent as a singer is not the only reason for his popularity. His good looks, his amazing story – from being a steelworker and part-time singer in a working men’s club to becoming a world-famous recording artist – his successful fight against brain cancer, and his decision to sing classic arias as well as pop songs have made him a pop celebrity with a large following. This will be Watson’s third appearance in Taiwan, following a concert in Taipei in 2006 and a performance at the World Games in Kaohsiung in 2009. He will be accompanied by a 70-piece orchestra and a 16-member choir.

Tel: (02) 3393-9888 www.ntch.edu.tw Nearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall

National Museum of History （國立歷史博物館）

Add: 49 Nanhai Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市 南 海路 4 9 號 )

Tel: (02) 2361-0270 www.nmh.gov.tw Nearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall

National Palace Museum （國立故宮博物院）

Add: 221 Zhishan Rd., Sec. 2, Taipei City ( 台北市至 善路 2 段 2 21 號 )

Tel: (02) 2881-2021 www.npm.gov.tw Nearest MRT Station: Shilin

National Taiwan Museum （國立臺灣博物館）

Add: 2 Xiangyang Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市 襄 陽 路二號 )

Tel: (02) 2382-2566 www.ntm.gov.tw Nearest MRT Station: NTU Hospital

Add: 1 Xinyi Rd., Sec. 5, Taipei City Tel: (02) 2725-5200 ext. 3000. 3151~52 www.ticc.com.tw Nearest MRT Station: Taipei City Hall

Taipei Fine Arts Museum （台北市立美術館）

Add: 181 Zhongshan N. Rd., Sec. 3, Taipei City ( 台北市中山北 路 3 段 181 號 )

Tel: (02) 2595-7656 www.tfam.museum Nearest MRT Station: Yuanshan

Museum of Contemporary Art Taipei（台北當代藝術館） Add: 39 Chang-an W. Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市長 安 西 路 3 9 號 )

Tel: (02) 2552-3720 www.mocataipei.org.tw Nearest MRT Station: Zhongshan

Lin Liu-hsin Puppet Theatre Museum（林柳新紀念偶戲博物館） Add: 79 Xining N. Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市 西寧 北 路 7 9 號 )

Tel: (02) 2556-8909 www.taipeipuppet.com Nearest MRT Station: Shuanglian

Taichung Taichung Zhongshan Hall（台中中山堂） Add: 98 Xueshi Rd., Taichung City ( 台中市學士路 9 8 號 )

Tel: (04) 2230-3100 www.tccgc.gov.tw

National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts（國立台灣美術館） Add: 2 Wuquan W. Rd., Sec. 1, Taichung City ( 台中市五權 西 路 一段 2 號 )

Tel: (04) 2372-3552 www.ntmofa.gov.tw/Tainan

Tainan Tainan City Cultural Center （台南市立文化中心）

Add: 332 Zhonghua E. Rd., Sec. 3, Tainan City ( 台南 市中華東 路 3 段 332 號 )

Tel: (06) 269-2864 www.tmcc.gov.tw

Kaohsiung

Novel Hall（新舞臺）

Kaohsiung City Chungcheng Cultural Center（高雄市立中正文化中心）

Add: 3 Songshou Rd., Taipei City

Add: 67 Wufu 1st Rd., Kaohsiung City

( 台北市松 壽路 3 號 )

( 高 雄 市五福 一路 67 號 )

Tel: (02) 2722-4302 www.novelhall.org.tw Nearest MRT Station: Taipei City Hall

Tel: (07) 222-5136 ext. 8908, 8909, 8910 www.khcc.gov.tw (Chinese only) Nearest KMRT Station: Cultural Center

National Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall

Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts（高雄市立美術館）

（國立國父紀念館）

Add: 80 Meishuguan Rd., Kaohsiung City

Add: 505 Ren-ai Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City

( 高 雄 市美 術館 路 8 0 號 )

( 台北市仁 愛 路 四 段 5 0 5 號 )

Tel: (07) 555-0331 www.kmfa.gov.tw Nearest KMRT Station: Aozihdi Station

Tel: (02) 2758-8008 www.yatsen.gov.tw/english Nearest MRT Station: Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall

Taipei Arena（台北小巨蛋）

Kaohsiung Museum of History （高雄市立歷史博物館）

Add: 2 Nanjing E. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City

Add: 272 Zhongzheng 4th Rd., Kaohsiung City

( 台北市 南 京 東 路 4 段 2 號 )

( 高 雄 市中正四 路 27 2 號 )

Tel: (02) 2577-3500 www.taipeiarena.com.tw Nearest MRT Station: Nanjing E. Rd.

Tel: (07) 531-2560 http://163.32.121.205/ Nearest KMRT Station: City Council

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Travel in Taiwan

FEATURE

Coral sand beach on Little Liuqiu Island

A BIG BAY & A SMALL ISLAND

Exploring Dapeng Bay and Little Liuqiu Island on an Eco-Tour They might not have the most untouched of natural environments, but Dapeng Bay and Little Liuqiu in Pingtung County each has a surprisingly diverse treasure trove of flora and fauna gems, making them two intriguing destinations for short eco-tours. By Steven Crook

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Travel in Taiwan

ECO-TOUR

Photo / Bobby Wu

more

9

Travel in Taiwan

FEATURE

Waterfowl at Dapeng Bay’s Jialian Wetland

10

Travel in Taiwan

the salinity. Yet only two small creeks feed into the bay, and year-round sunshine evaporates a great deal of the water. Also, because salt is comparatively heav y it tends to sink and linger rather than being washed out through the bay's constricted opening.

A

pleasurable way to see the bay is to get on a boat.

A number of outf its offer boat tours, but the DBNSA Administration recommends those offered by Renpeng Seaside Ranch. Guided boat tours cost NT$350 per adult and NT$300 for kids 12 and under. (Chinese only; but you'll enjoy the outing even if you don't understand a word.)

Our voyage began with a close look at the mangroves beside Renpeng's base. These saltwater-loving trees and shrubs used to be common along Taiwan's west coast, but in most places they've been squeezed out by economic development. A common mangrove species around the bay is Avienna marina.

Then it was on to Oyster Shell Island. It isn't a true island, rather the result of a community consensus to dump unwanted oyster shells at the same spot over a long period. In ecological terms, this reef-like accumulation is akin to a sunken ship – inert, yet a valuable shelter for f ish. Within minutes of disembarking at the island-side f loating restaurant (try an oyster omelet if you've got the munchies) we had spotted hundreds of f ish, representing at least three piscine species.

Photos / Bobby Wu

Despite

the best efforts of the Tourism Bureau's Dapeng Bay National Scenic Area (DBNSA) Administration, there are still tourists who've not heard of this area in southwest Taiwan. Just in case you're one of them, here are some basic facts: Dapeng Bay is divided between the townships of Donggang and Linbian in Pingtung County. The waters of the lagoon here cover 532 hectares and average f ive meters in depth. Used by the military until the 1970s, the bay later became one of Taiwan's most important oyster-farming areas – it's said a man could get f rom one side to the other, a distance of 1,800 meters, by clambering f rom oyster platform to oyster platform.

The bay is stirred by consistent winds, but because the mouth is narrow the waves never reach any great height.

Conditions are thus perfect for all kinds of water sports.

For those who like to stay dry, a bicycle path stretching 13.3 km rings the lagoon.

On this occasion, however, Travel in Taiwan was not visiting in order to get f it. We were there to learn about the unique ecosystems of the scenic area, which consists of the lagoon area and Xiao Liuqiu, an island 14 km offshore.

Mr. Liao Zhi-feng, the DBNSA off icial showing us around the bay, began by telling me something so counterintuitive that I had to double-check it. The bay, he said, is saltier than the nearby ocean.

Surely not, I thought; f reshwater inf low would reduce

ECO-TOUR

Wild ducks

Trail through the Wild Boar Trench

Peculiar mushroom

Examining the island flora

it's central to the national government's plan to develop Six artif icial wetlands f ringe the bay. In addition the bay into a coastal resort with world-class facilities. to removing pollutants f rom the water, they provide Little Liuqiu is just 6.8 square kilometers in area. ideal habitat for the migrating waterbirds that gather Largely uplif ted coral reef, it's far f rom f lat. hereabouts each winter. An elegant three-story wooden Within minutes of disembarking, we were en route tower f rom which visitors can watch avians stands beside to Geban Bay, also known locally as “Venice Beach.” The Qifeng Wetland. At Jialian, a lively village, abandoned sand here, as on most of the island's beaches, f ish farms have been turned into attractive Xiao Liuqiu consists features sharp f ragments of coral, so the pools inhabited by mallards and blacklargel y of upli fted coral wearing of sandals or neoprene booties is crowned night herons. ree f and is far f rom flat advisable.

The pools form the core of Jialian Near the water's edge, I grabbed a handf ul of grit and Community Park, and most visitors to Jialian linger here sif ted through it caref ully, engrossed by the amazing awhile. This is entirely understandable – it's a lovely spot variety of colors, shapes and sizes. Our guide, Mr. Li Mingwith an inexpensive coffee shop, and the ducks come up long, pointed out tiny (less than one mm across), irregular close. But thanks to Mr. Liao, we were able to take in a f ive-pointed yellow stars – f oramini f era, the shells of glorious sight nearby that many visitors miss – a shallow minute organisms. pond crowded with black-winged stilts. It was an excellent It's worth repeating something Mr. Li stressed: Don't way to wind up the af ternoon. take any seashells home with you. If every one of the boat, it takes little more than half an hour to 300,000 folk who visit Little Liuqiu each year were to carry reach Little Liuqiu f rom Donggang. There are at away a handf ul of choice shells, the environment would be least eight departures per day to Baisha, the main town, seriously degraded. and another f ive to Daf u. If you've not already arranged If you visit Geban Bay between April and September transportation and accommodation, it's probably best to you may spot f iref lies, or even green loggerhead turtles arrive at the former, where you can rent a motor scooter making their way into this sheltered cove to lay their and get oriented. eggs. An hour later we spotted a few of these sea creatures Leaving “the mainland,” we got good views of a brandswimming very close to the Sama ji Island Camping Area on new addition to the landscape, Taiwan's f irst drawbridge. the island's northern coast.

Designed to allow large yachts in and out of Dapeng Bay,

By

11

Travel in Taiwan

FEATURE

Little Liuqiu’s most f amous landmark: Flower Vase Rock

Sandy beach at Geban Bay

The sun was now setting, but we were far f rom the ink to help them catch f ish. f inished. Af ter dinner, it was off to Yufu Fishing Harbor Like every good entertainer, our guide had prepared a for a nighttime guided tour of the intertidal zone. grand f inale. Asking us to dim our f lashlights, he began Thanks to Little Liuqiu's pristine environment and brushing the water with his hand. Within seconds, spots its rocky, uneven foreshore, there are countless pools and of greenish lights appeared in the water – bioluminescent trenches where sea creatures hide out between tides. This plankton, the underwater equivalent of f iref lies! natural aquarium is best explored with The follow ing morning was spent at an We saw a meter-long black-andthe help of a guide, and we had Little inland location totally dif ferent f rom the white worm not thicker than a Liuqiu native Mr. Li Cheng-jia. He began sun-drenched beaches where v isitors spend strand of spaghetti by warning us not to touch anything much of their time. Wild Boar Trench until he gave the OK. Some inhabitants of the intertidal is misnamed; l izards, mice, and voles are the island's zone – such as rock boring urchins – can inf lict nasty largest w ild creatures. Cool and damp, the gull ies there stings. are f illed w ith ferns and a taro-l ike plant called giant Wading a considerable distance f rom dry land, but elephant's ear. never getting more than our ankles wet, we were shown We then had to leave. There hadn't been time for a black brittle starf ish, then a black sea cucumber as big the birdwatching we had or iginally planned, nor had we as a child's forearm. Af ter that we saw a meter-long blackpaid much attention to the butterf l ies. We hope that and-white worm not thicker than a strand of spaghetti. next time we’ ll see long-tailed shr ikes, Japanese whiteEven more remarkable were the sea hares, sof t gastropods eyes, and other resident birds, and w ith luck, a huge, that emit purple ink when under attack. This substance ma jestic Papilio memnon heronus butterf ly w ill gl ide our intoxicates and disorients f ish; Mr. Li said that when he way. And, w ithout a doubt, we'll be heading back to the was a child, he and his f riends would use a collection of intertidal zone.

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Travel in Taiwan

Photos / Bobby Wu

Little Liuqiu’s nature is very accessible

ECO-TOUR

Spotted sea hare

Exploring the sea floor of the intertidal zone at night reveals amazing creatures

Pillow cushion star

Collector sea urchin

Black sea cucumber

Rock boring sea urchin

DAPENG BAY NATiONAL sCENiC AREA

to Kaohsiung

w w w.dbnsa.gov.tw

RENPENG sEAsiDE RANCH (仁鵬海洋親水牧場) Tel : (08 ) 832 - 2777 Loc a tion : On the seaward side of

Donggang South China Sea

Flower Vase Rock Liuqiu V isitor Center Baisha Tourist Harbor

Little Liuqiu

Wild Boar Trench Geban Bay

Highway No. 17 at km 257. 3

Jialian Community Park 14k

Samaji Island Camping Area

Sea hare eggs

Yufu F ishing Port Dafu F ishing Port

Peng Bay Bridge

Dapeng Bay

Oyster Shell Island Qifeng Wetland

{ENGLisH & CHINESE}

Baisha Dapeng Bay National Scenic Area Dafu Donggang Geban Bay Jialian Jialian Community Park Li Cheng-jia Li Ming-long Liao Zhi-feng Linbian Oyster Shell Island Qifeng Wetland Samaji Island Camping Area Wild Boar Trench Little Liuqiu Yufu Fishing Harbor

白沙 大鵬灣國家風景區 大福 東港 蛤板灣 嘉蓮 嘉蓮社區公園 李承家 李銘龍 廖志峰 林邊 蚵殼島 崎峰濕地 沙瑪基露營區 山豬溝 小琉球 漁福魚港

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Travel in Taiwan

EAT

Three Culinary Treasures Bluefin Tuna, Sakura Shrimp, and Escolar Roe are Donggang’s Must-Try Specialties By Steven Crook

The three culinary treasures of Donggang at Sunrise Restaurant

cheese in both texture and taste, this a local gourmet you’re dish is served cold and thinly sliced. heading to Pingtung County’s west coast, and he or she is three of Donggang's culinary sure to rhapsodize about Donggang’s treasures can be sampled at “three culinary treasures.” The f ishing Sunrise Restaurant, a three-story town has always made its living f rom landmark establishment that's been in the ocean, so it’s no surprise that all business for over 40 years. Like many three of these signature delicacies are banquet-style restaurants, the food seafood items. here is best enjoyed in large groups, so First and foremost is bluefin tuna, you can taste numerous dishes at one the availability of which peaks around time. the start of summer. It’s of ten served According to the owners, Sunrise's Japanese-style as sashimi or in sushi. chefs much prefer f reshly caught If you order some, do try it before you seafood to farmed f ish. Despite the sample any other dishes. Top-grade emphasis on seafood, the menu also bluef in sashimi costs around NT$300 caters to vegetarians and those who'd per slice, so it deserves a clean palate. rather eat land-roaming creatures. For In appearance, it resembles marbled NT$400 to NT$500 per person, you'll beef. In taste, obviously, enjoy a real feast.

Blue fin tuna is often it’s very different.

Little Liuqiu has served Japanese-st yle as If raw f ish doesn't a number of qual ity sashimi or in sushi appeal, order a tuna dish seafood eater ies, and that's been deep-f ried or steamed. one of the best is Baihai Restaurant.

The second treasure is sakura It's easy to f ind – if you're walking shrimp. These are usually shallowf rom the center of Baisha, the main f ried, seasoned and served on a bed of town, to Lingshan Temple, it's one of f luff y white rice. the last buildings on the lef t.

The third is escolar roe. DarkNot everything on the menu comes brown in color and surprisingly like f rom the ocean. For example, locally-

14

Travel in Taiwan

All

made pork sausages, chopped into slivers and served with lettuce, are a favorite.

Baihai also serves up what locals call a Little Liuqiu Pizza. It contains neither cheese nor tomatoes, yet in terms of shape and size it does resemble a pizza. Filled with prawns covered with f lour and seasoning, it's deep-f ried until golden-brown – and it goes down a treat. sUNRisE REsTAURANT ( 東昇餐廳 ) A dd : 66 Guangfu Road, Sec. 2 , Donggang Township, Pingtung County ( 屏東 縣 東 港 鎮 光 復 路二 段 66 號 ) Tel : (08 ) 832 -3112

BAiHAi REsTAURANT ( 百海餐廳 ) A dd : 6 Minzu Rd., Liuqiu Township, Pingtung County ( 屏東 縣 琉 球 鄉民 族 路六 號 ) Tel : (08 ) 861- 2224 Websi t e : w w w.paihai.com.tw (Chinese)

{ENGLisH & CHINESE}

bluefin tuna Donggang ’ s three culinary treasures escolar roe Lingshan Temple sakura shrimp Little Liuqiu Pizza

黑鮪魚 東港三寶 油魚子 靈山寺 櫻花蝦 小琉球比薩

Photos / Bobby Wu

Tell

15

Travel in Taiwan

STAY

Staying on the Island Villa-Style Accommodation on Xiao Liuqiu

By Steven Crook

Tranquil garden and pond of Shan Bay Villa

Over

16

Travel in Taiwan

the intertidal zone – are available. The hotel can also help arrange snorkeling sessions and excursions on a glassbottom boat. sHAN BAY ViLLA (杉板灣 )

2 Duzaiping Rd., Liuqiu Township, Pingtung County ( 屏東 縣 琉 球 鄉肚仔坪路 2 號 ) Tel : (08 ) 861-3300 Websi t e : w w w.sbbay.com.tw A dd :

{ENGLisH & CHINESE}

Black Dwarf Cave Geban Bay Wild Boar Trench

烏鬼洞 蛤板灣 山豬溝

Photos / Bobby Wu

Most beverages are priced just NT$30; the past few years, new the vistas, however, are priceless. hotels and homestays The hotel’s design incorporates have opened in every corner of Little aspects of green architecture. A large Liuqiu, giving visitors an excellent array of solar thermal panels produces range of accommodation options. all the hot water needed. Much of One of the most impressive Xiao Liuqiu’s water is pumped in f rom newcomers is Shan Bay Villa. This Taiwan, but Shan Bay Villa draws its stylish complex is colored creamy water f rom wells that have existed white and wood brown – shades chosen, the owner says, The hotel provides electric for decades. Rather than loan gasoline-burning to better f it in with scooters on which guests motorcycles/scooters to local nature. can zip around the island guests, the hotel has It overlooks Geban acquired a f leet of electric scooters on Bay on the island’s northwest coast, which they can zip around the island. and has the island’s only swimming Much of the 2,000-ping (1 ping pool. equals just over 3.3 sq. m.) lot has As the name advertises, Shan Bay been turned into manicured lawns Villa has villa-style accommodation and colorf ul f lowerbeds. The garden (sleeping quarters and bathroom between the lobby and the road is upstairs, open-air bath and rakedbisected by an artif icial brook that gravel miniature garden downstairs), nurtures aquatic plants and insects. but also offers more conventional Packages – which include rooms. The former are more luxurious breakfast, af ternoon tea, dinner, and characterf ul, to be sure, yet the ferry tickets, pickup f rom the dock, latter have better ocean views. admission to Xiao Liuqiu’s ma jor sights There’s a medium-sized conference (such as Black Dwarf Cave and Wild room, but tourists will probably make Boar Trench), use of a scooter and the more use of the roof top coffee shop. swimming pool, and a guided tour of This is where af ternoon tea is taken.

17

Travel in Taiwan

BUY

Donggang Specialties Things to Take Home from Sunny Pingtung County

By Steven Crook

“ Shuang

Sakura shrimp chocolates

Sakura shrimp popsicle

Eating sakura shrimp popsicles earns you bragging rights. How many of your f riends have eaten sea food ice-cream be fore?

18

Travel in Taiwan

fame rests on food and religion. As far as Taiwanese are concerned, this bustling town of 50,000 is synonymous with delicious seafood and a triennial boat-burning ceremony that honors Taoist deities.

But that doesn’t mean shopaholics and those who’ve promised to bring something special home for their f riends or relatives will leave emptyhanded.

An excellent place to hunt for souvenirs is Tung Kang Speciality.

It’s a very short walk f rom the Sunrise Restaurant mentioned on page 14.

The store has an array of intriguing and beautif ully-packaged souvenirs.

Some are impractical if you’re visiting f rom afar and expect to be living out of a suitcase (or a backpack) for several more days. Nevertheless, they’re well worth examining.

Day-trippers of ten go for the pork sausages f lavored with octopus ink, or for sausages made f rom f lying f ish eggs (both are priced NT$150 per packet).

If your next stop is the home of a Taiwanese f riend, consider buying a big

bag of f ish balls – they’re delicious in soups.

There are also bags of, yes, fishf lavored candies and packets of dried swordf ish.

You’ll probably be offered f ree samples of the store’s most exotic offering, sakura shrimp chocolates.

These morsels (NT$280 for a box containing ten pieces; NT$520 for 20 pieces) consist of tiny shrimps baked and then covered with white chocolate.

In each box, half are original f lavor, while half have been enlivened with a smidgen of wasabi.

Those traveling super-light or on a tight budget should set aside NT$30 for one of the store’s sakura shrimp popsicles. Not only are they surprisingly milky and ref reshing, but you’ll earn bragging rights. How many of your f riends can say they’ve eaten seafood ice cream?

TUNG KANG sPECiALiTY ( 東港東西 ) A dd : 42 -1 Guangfu Road, Sec. 2 , Donggang Township, Pingtung County ( 屏東 縣 東 港 鎮 光 復 路二 段 42 -1號 ) Tel : (08 ) 832 - 8869 Hou r s : Daily 9 : 30 a.m. to 9 : 30 p.m.

Photos / Bobby Wu, Sunny Su

Donggang’s

gao run, ”a sweet delicacy from Donggang

ECO-TOURS

19

Travel in Taiwan

FEATURE

Five Ideas for Eco-Touring in Taiwan A Lifetime Isn't Enough to See All of Taiwan's Natural Wonders By Steven Crook

20

Travel in Taiwan

Eco-touring in a Concrete Building?

The best single introduction to Taiwan’s awesome biodiversity can be enjoyed at the Conservation Education Center of the Endemic Species Research Institute (tesri.coa. gov.tw) in Nantou County’s Ji ji town. The center (admission NT$50/30; open 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday, closed June 1~10 and December 1~10) has excellent bilingual displays and multimedia presentations, plus an adjacent park f ull of plants, insects, and lizards.

Photos / Vision Int' l, Wen-Jen Fan

Taiwan is f antastically diverse in terms of topography, climate, and soil t ypes, and its various habitats nurture an astonishing variet y of mammals, birds, reptiles, insects, f ish, and plants. A great many species are endemic, meaning they’re f ound nowhere else on Earth. A quarter of Taiwan’s 4,300-plus vascular plants are unique to the island, as are one-third of its reptile species and subspecies.

Thirt y-six of the 220 f reshwater f ish species, 11 of the 30 bat t ypes, and 70 percent of its snails are endemic. I f you’ve the luxur y of time, visit the mountains, the coast, and the rural lowlands; all is not lost, however, i f you’re stuck in one of the cities. And it might sur prise you to read that our f irst recommended stop f alls into neither of these categories.

ECO-TOURS The High, Unspoiled Mountains It makes sense to continue heading inland f rom Ji ji, perhaps as far as Shei-Pa National Park (www.s pnp.gov.tw), which has 51 mountain peaks above 3,000 meters. At this altitude you’ll f ind no permanent settlements, no industry, and almost no roads.

If you hike to the top of Snow Mountain, Taiwan’s second-highest peak, you can expect to see Taiwan f lamecrests – tiny but colorf ul warblers – and vinaceous rosef inches. The park in its entirety is recognized by international ornithological bodies as one of Taiwan’s 53 Important Bird Areas.

At the park’s Wuling Farm (www.wuling- f arm.com.tw), scientists study a relic f rom the last Ice Age: the Formosan landlocked salmon (Oncorhynchus masou f ormosanum).

Like other salmon, this f ish used to migrate between the ocean and f reshwater. But when the climate changed some were caught, the need for water no warmer than 18 degrees Celsius meaning they were able to survive only in a handf ul of high-mountain creeks, unable to reach the sea. You can learn about this species at the farm’s Taiwan Salmon Eco Center (open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday, open on national holidays that fall on Mondays).

The Bucolic Countryside Unless you spend your entire time in Taiwan in one of the ma jor cities, you’ll notice that rice f ields still cover a signif icant proportion of Taiwan’s lowlands. This kind of farming has a mixed ecological impact. Rice f ields emit methane, a greenhouse gas, yet they also help stabilize water supplies and reduce the risk of f looding.

At f irst glance, paddies appear to be monocultures – places where a single crop thrives but few other organisms exist. However, if you get as close to the green stalks as you can without straining your eyes, you’ll spot tiny moths, spiders, and ladybugs. Frogs croak loudly, but hide themselves very well.

You’ll also notice snails and the pink masses of eggs they lay. These gastropods, known in English as golden apple snails, are an invasive pest. Unlike their dryland counterparts, golden apple snails have tubular snorkels which allow them to breathe air while submerged. For this reason they’re less vulnerable to birds, which is important because paddies attract droves of egrets, black-winged stilts, and other avians.

Get Your Feet Wet If Dapeng Bay (see page 8) isn’t on your itinerary, but you like the idea of seeing saltwater creatures, an easy option is riding Taipei’s MRT out to the port town of Danshui and then taking the ferry to Bali (a small town on the opposite side of the river) when the tide is low. The

boat journey takes about ten minutes and costs NT$20 one way.

The exposed mudf lats around Bali’s dock are alive with f iddler crabs and mudskippers. The latter are actually f ish that can survive for some time out of the water because they breathe through their skin. They grow up to 10cm long. Further west, at the mouth of the river you can also explore a mangrove protection area serving as habitat for many mud dwellers and waterbirds.

At both Haomeiliao in Chiayi County and Sicao in Tainan City you can join boat tours. At the former the focus is on crabs; at the latter it’s on mangroves and waterbirds. Haomeiliao Nature Preserve is a six-hectare area of mudf lats, lagoons, dunes, and marshes. The two main species of crab hereabouts are Uca lactea (a f iddler, so the males have one claw much bigger than the other) and Mict yris brevidact ylus (a light-blue soldier crab).

Sicao is now a core part of Tai jiang National Park (www.t jnp.gov.tw), Taiwan’s newest national park. Tours are organized by the Tainan City Mangrove Protection Association (tel: (06) 284-1709).

Stuck in the City What options do you have if your visit to Taiwan is limited to the capital, and you’ve no more than a few hours to spare? Head to Taipei Botanical Garden (open daily 4 a.m. to 10 p.m.; t pbg.tfri.gov.tw). This garden area features an impressive 1,500 plant and tree species in just eight hectares. Japanese white-eyes and black-browed barbets are among the birds of ten seen here.

Note also that the southern city of Kaohsiung has a park at its center devoted to indigenous f lora that’s easy to get to and educational. The Protogenic Plants Garden (open daily 24 hours) is a ten-minute walk f rom the old Zuoying Railway Station.

{ENGLisH & CHINESE}

Budai Conservation Education Center, Endemic Species Research Institute Danshui Formosan landlocked salmon Golden apple snail Haomeiliao Haomeiliao Nature Preserve Jiji Protogenic Plants Garden Shei-Pa National Park Sicao Snow Mountain Taijiang National Park Tainan City Mangrove Protection Association Taipei Botanical Gardens Taiwan Salmon Eco Center

布袋 特有生物研究保育中心

淡水 台灣櫻花鉤吻鮭 福壽螺 好美寮 好美寮自然保護區 集集 原生原生植物園 雪霸國家公園 四草 雪山 台江國家公園 台南市紅樹林保護協會 台北植物園 台灣櫻花鉤吻鮭生態中心

21

Travel in Taiwan

ADVERTISEMENT

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unique ams with quirk y and se e th at g tin rs bu ndy ively e hear t of Taipei ’s tre ei City that are posit th ip in Ta t, of ric s st rt di pa ng in Lo rta oking for There are ce ds , and the Kang Qing s. Whether you’re lo kin ek l al we r of fo s fé er ca nd d wa an , ily pp rld, or restaurant s, bars from around the wo d drink lover could ha as an te od t fo es y fin an e e th ac of pl e a ffee, sample som downtown area, is nle y and enjoy a cup of co , ad re x, la re to ppointed. By Joe He e sa ac di u yo ve a quiet pl lea n’t ic, Kang Qing Long wo enjoy some live mus

Salt Peanuts Café

Located

in the maze of lanes off Taishun Street, not far from the famous food stalls of the Shida Night Market, is Salt Peanuts Café, a warm, soothing, laid-back establishment with its finger on the pulse of the Taipei arts scene.

The café was founded by two women, graduates of National Taiwan University’s Graduate Institute of Building and Planning, with the goal of providing an inspirational venue in which creative waves f low as freely as their wide selections of coffees, teas, and Belgian beers. Watercolors, simply drawn portraits, and sketches created by local artists adorn the walls of the softly lit, warmly decorated dark-wood interior. Alternative rock and indie music play softly on the stereo, and an eclectic selection of literature and CDs sits on shelves throughout the rooms, which are divided by darkly stained shutter windows.

The menu boasts Taiwanese specialties such as Hualien pork knuckle and duck in lotus leaf, along with brunch sets, tapas, desserts, domestic and foreign teas, coffees of all kinds, cocktails, and Chilean and South African wines. If you’re looking to stimulate your intellectual side and get a feel for Taipei’s artistic vibrations, this just might be the best place to start.

Formosa Vintage Museum Café

you enjoy a bit of history with your cup of coffee or tea, head to Formosa Vintage Museum Café, near the north entrance to Yongkang Street on section 2 of Xinyi Road, yet another repository of edible delights. This café cum museum was founded by Doctor Lin Yu-fang in memory of his beloved mother and father. A basic selection of coffees and teas offer a delectable excuse to bask among the hundreds of artifacts that Dr. Lin has accumulated over the years, as patrons are invited to wander around and take pictures of the countless pieces of Taiwan’s past that he has lovingly accrued. Wall-to-wall memorabilia adorns the place and display cases, with ceramic sculptures, ancient city plans, black-and-white photos of yesteryear, wooden carvings of Taoist gods and Buddhas, elegantly framed paintings depicting scenes from Taiwanese folklore, vintage advertisements and propaganda items, indigenoustribe weapons, and ornate bamboo fans are just a few of the many worthy of mention.

This is one café that truly offers the opportunity to leave the present and sit amidst history, absorbing its many wonders in a relaxed setting.

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Travel in Taiwan

Photos / Maggie Song

If

KANG QING LONG

Coffee Mania

For

those of you who take your cup of coffee a little more seriously than others, seek out Coffee Mania, located down a small alley off Shida Road near Shida Night Market. Coffee Mania is run by an interior designer who set up this small, dimly lit space motivated by nothing more than his pure love for the perfect cup of coffee.

Though this café’s hours of operation are irregular, customers are invited to call the owner at any time to set up a reservation. The place was lovingly crafted following the owner’s individual taste and design expertise, and visitors will find a warm, welcoming, and hospitable atmosphere. One thing you won’t find is a menu, but the owner is wellversed in the art of all things coffee-related, though his cappuccino in particular is nearing legendary status among the student community of nearby National Taiwan Normal University (commonly known as “Shida”).

Hui Liu

Tea

connoisseurs need look no further for liquid comfort than the aforementioned Yongkang Street, where two of Taipei’s best places to sample and buy fine Taiwanese and imported teas are found. Looking out over the small Yongkang Park is Hui Liu, a health-oriented vegetarian café and restaurant run by American expatriate Evan Shaw and his Taiwanese wife, Hu Hsiao-chen. With a menu featuring only fresh, inseason ingredients, organic beers and teas, and a host of dishes that promote a refreshing philosophy of healthy living, Hui Liu lives up to the English translation of its name, “Return (to Nature).” Even the feel of the place is holistic and healthy, as the small details from the fresh f lowers on the tables to the simple elegance of the antique decorations and classical music playing quietly make one feel utterly at peace and free to enjoy the basic but oft-missed pleasure of food and drink that aid the body and soul.

Ye Tang

A

short distance away is Ye Tang, an urban oasis for tea lovers. Visitors are greeted with manicured bonsai trees in the shop’s small front courtyard, and owner He Jian, a man of 30 years’ experience in the business, always presents a hot cup of expertly brewed tea to his guests. Inside the shop are traditional bamboo tea-making instruments, clay teapots, handmade cups, and a refined serving room for sampling small cups of He Jian’s fine products. The dark wood tones and antique fixtures at He’s tea sanctuary are a warm and welcoming draw for anyone looking to take home some Taiwanese, Korean, or Japanese tea leaf or delicately crafted, handmade teaware.

25

Travel in Taiwan

LET'S GO OUT TONIGHT!

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Jinshan S. Rd., Sec. 2

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4 COFFEE MANiA (鼠寓 ) Tel: (02) 3365 - 2027, 0936 -201- 666 Add: 19, Lane 80, Shida Rd., Taipei City (台北市師大路 80 巷19 號 )

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Lane 59

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Rd., Sec. 3, Taipei City (台北市羅斯福路 3 段 171號 4 樓 )

duck in lotus leaf He Jian Hu Hsiao-chen Hualien pork knuckle Kang Qing Long district Lin Yu-fang National Taiwan Normal University Roosevelt Road 峯 Shida Night Market Taishun Street Xinyi Road Yongkang Park Yongkang Street

荷葉鴨 何健 胡筱貞 花蓮豬腳 康青龍區 林于昉 國立臺灣 師範大學 羅斯福路 師大夜市 泰順街 信義路 永康公園 永康街

Taipower Building La

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4

24

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Gongguan

For more inf otmation on the Kang Qing Long district and its many other caf és, tea shops, and boutiques, visit www.tteacaf e.tw. I f you are in the area you can also drop by Taipei Tea Caf é ( 旅人茶房 ; 10, Lane 80, Shida Rd., Taipei Cit y / 台北市師大路 80 巷 10 號 ) and ask f or print-out inf ormation in Chinese and English.

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Travel in Taiwan

Photos / South Village, Maggie Song

Ro

{ENGLisH & CHINESE}

6 OLdiE GOOdiE

Tel: (02) 2362- 2333 Add: 4F, 171, Roosevelt

Xinsheng

43 e2

Jinhua St.

Lan

Nat. Taiwan

2 HUi LiU ( 回留 )

Tel: (02) 2369 -3686 Add: 2F, 171, Roosevelt

7 e4

Lane 47

Nat. Chengchi Univ.

Sec. 2, Taipei City (台北市信義路2 段 178 號 3 樓 )

Taipei City (台北市師大路 60 巷 23號 )

High School

Lane 41

Lane 13

Business Admin. Edu.

Jinhua Junior

d.,

Lane 9

Center for Public &

Tel: (02) 2351- 5723 Add: 3F, 178 , Xinyi Rd.,

Tel: (02) 2368 -1019 Add: 23, Lane 60, Shida

Lan

Lane 14

1 FORMOsA ViNTAGE

MUsEUM CAFÉ ( 秋惠文庫 )

e 31

Lane 12

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ua S t.

School

gS en

Jinh

Park

Lane 10

Lan

., Sec. 1 Roosevelt Rd

Memorial Hall

E. Rd .

Yongkang

Elem.

sh Xin

Aiguo

Jinhua

Lishui St.

MRT CKS

Lane 7

Lane 2

Hall

Yongkang St.

Kang Qing Long Area

N

Xinyi Rd., Sec. 2 Din Tai Fung

KANG QING LONG

Oldie Goodie

Coffee

and tea are all well and good for an afternoon or early evening of relaxation, but the night demands something a bit stronger – and louder. Those looking for a hit of live music need look no further than the south end of Shida Road, where the well-worn student-enclave thoroughfare meets Roosevelt Road. There, on f loors two and four of a nondescript office building, are two gems of the Taipei nightlife and music scenes, Oldie Goodie and Blue Note.

Oldie Goodie was born from a love of Western music and a return to those proverbial carefree “good old days.” This is a small space, equipped with a slightly elevated corner stage that looks out over a few tables clad in plaid tablecloths, where an often mature crowd takes in a live show every day of the week, performances getting under way at 9:30 on weekdays and 10 p.m. on weekends Even on those rare nights when no band is booked, the owner has been known to let people get up on stage and jam. If your radio is permanently dialed to adult contemporary, this is the scene for you.

Blue Note

A

couple f loors up from Oldie Goodie is Blue Note, the counterculture bastion of cool jazz Taipei. Another intimate venue, its walls are decked out with vinyl records of jazz greats such as Thelonious Monk, Dizzy Gillespie, Billie Holiday, and Duke Ellington. A cramped stage illuminated by tube lighting and string lights features a baby grand piano and more than enough room for a jazz ensemble. This venue has the feel of a private speakeasy that you would normally hear about only through word of mouth. A drink or two at Blue Note while taking in some spirited renditions of jazz classics is the ideal way to end an af ternoon and evening spent in the relaxed and robust Kang Qing Long district, a vibrant place of many open secrets waiting to be revealed.

THE BEST ROUTE

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Travel in Taiwan

NORTH/NORTHEAST COAST

Riding the

Deuce

Rolling Down Highway No. 2 along the North and Northeast Coasts Having grown up in North America, where there is much open country and much open road available to explore it, the words “road trip! ” called out by friend or family member send forth a wave of excitement and expectation. Taiwan too — though by many a degree smaller in size and percentage of open and accessible terrain — offers a range of rewarding road trips that will satisfy the cravings of all adventurous souls. Here we explore the pretty north and northeast coasts, a world away from the manmade landscape of metropolitan Taipei, though within an hour by car from its heart. By Rick Charette

Photos / Vision Int'l

Typical bizarre rock formation found along Taiwan’s northern coast

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Travel in Taiwan

THE BEST ROUTE

On

the north coast, along most sections of Provincial Highway No. 2, the waves of the Pacif ic come ashore quite close to the road, and only a matter of meters below. On the other side are mountains, though set back a bit in most areas. The northeast coast is more rugged, the mountains crowded shoulder to shoulder right by the shore and the breakers smashing themselves against rock far down below in many a dramatic section. I have traversed what some of my expatriate friends call “the Two” or “the Deuce” more times than I can recall, and for this outing I have framed the trip for you by off icially beginning at Taiwan’s easternmost point, Sandiao Cape, and ending at her northernmost, Fugui Cape.

Each of us experiences the world using a unique set of personality-sculpting f ilters. My own travel adventures, by design or default, are always f irst and foremost history tours.

All along the coast here you’ll see colorful f ishing boats of myriad size, design, and rigging, but in my mind’s eye the big boys are magically transformed into white-sailed Spanish warships. The Spanish controlled this region from 1626 to 1642, their main base at the present-day city of Keelung, before being ousted by the Dutch, whose main Taiwan base was in the southwest. The “Sandiao” in the cape’s name is derived from the original Spanish name Cape San Diego (the Spaniards moved on because they thought any bastion here would be indefensible).

On this day we reach the northeast coast from Taipei NORTHvia National Freeway No. 5, connecting to the No. 2 EAST COAST and approaching Sandiao Cape from the south. It’s about the same time and distance via National Freeway No. 1, with a switch to Provincial Highway No. 62 just before you hit Keelung City. If you choose the latter option, you’ll of course be traveling twice along the northeast coast stretch of Highway No. 2. Note that your travel times can become much longer if your outing is on a weekend or holiday.

We turn inland off The northeast coast is more No. 2 just past the 109rugged, the mountains km marker to reach crowded shoulder to shoulder the Sandiao Cape right by the shore Lighthouse. There is a sign with clear English at the entrance of the lane that heads up the hill. The lighthouse was built in 1935 by the Japanese af ter two Japanese ships sank directly offshore. It is open daily from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., save for Mondays and the day af ter a national holiday, and houses a small display gallery with old lighthouse equipment, maps, period photos, and other items.

There are short, well-maintained pathways on the cape, one leading to a f ine lookout with information boards that have English explanations of the immediate area’s geology and history. Along the coast far to the south, you can see a giant turtle headed out to sea – this is Turtle Island, Taiwan’s only active volcano. Bring a jacket, for the winds can be strong and cool here.

From the lookout you also look straight down onto an aquatic farm on the coastal side of the highway where abalone

30

Travel in Taiwan

WHAT’S SEEN ON THE WAY FROM THE EASTERNMOST TO THE NORTHERNMOST TIP OF THE ISLAND There were many amazing things seen on this road-trip. Let me show you some!

Majestic Keelung Mountain

Rock eroded by wind and sea

Sandiao Cape Lighthouse

Ro

NORTH/NORTHEAST NORTH/NORTHEAST COAST

ocks covered with seaweed

Rock formations at Yeliu

Mushroom rock Tourists are drawn to the rocks at Yeliu

One of many fossil pat terns

OIA Art Cafe

Sandy stretch of coast

Photos / Aska Chi, Vision int'l

OIA Art Cafe

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Travel in Taiwan

promontory have been carved by Mother Nature the artist, is cultivated. A visit to the large farm, tiny hamlet, using wave and wind as her tools. The gallery of works and tiny port here is even better, and af terwards you’ll includes a bust of Egyptian Queen Nefertiti, Cinderella’s immediately recognize the numerous abalone operations that lost slipper, burning candles (to my mind, by far the most sprinkle the northeast coast. beautiful), and petrif ied eggs lef t to hatch by ancient sea Our next stop is Longdongwan Cape Trail. The turnoff monsters. to the trailhead parking lot is just past the 88-km marker, These are all in the f irst section, accessed by wide, just before you enter the Longdong Tunnel, which takes the comfortable boardwalks. If time allows, af ter enjoying highway through the cape. Look for the large, attractive the formations walk the footpath that takes you to the temple along the road, just off the highway; the parking promontory’s tip. The views from the lighthouse here are lot is just beyond. The wide, well-maintained pathway stunning, the sea wrapping around you almost 360 degrees, stretches northwards about 7 km, but our main interest here and you’ll have lef t almost all the out-of-shape formationis reaching the tip of the cape and taking in the spectacular gawking day-trippers behind. Give yourself about 4 hours for views standing on the edge of sheer cliffs hundreds of this second section. (Note that town and park can get very, meters high. For this you need just 10-15 minutes one way, very busy on non-workdays.) passing by informative signboards with good English and The turnoff for the road leading toward the tip of pathways down to the shore, where scores of f ishermen will Fugui Cape and comfortable Fugui Cape Park is at be posed on rocky outcrops to enhance your Bizarre sandstone about the 26-km mark. Clear English signage then picture-taking. At the cape’s tip are a couple of grassy areas, one with a gazebo, begging formations on the guides you on the short drive toward the visual you to stop and picnic. This is my favorite rocky promontory have highlight of this rugged, rocky outcrop, the Fugui natural spot on the north/northeast been carved by Mother Cape Lighthouse. The windswept features paved paths that bring to many a scenic outlook, with coast – the views are unbeatable, nature’s Nature the artist intermittent explanatory signs with English. Note power on full, exciting, primal display. that the lighthouse itself is on a small air force radar base, No surprise, the cliffs here are north Taiwan’s best natural with access limited to weekends. You must sign in and out. rock-climbing facility.

The original lighthouse here was built in 1896, destroyed Highway No. 2 goes right through downtown NORTH COAST by the Allies for strategic reasons during WW II. Rebuilt Keelung, but to save time getting to the north in 1949, it today features dramatic black and white stripes coast, at the 74-km point we jump on Provincial Highway for easier discernment in fog. On the cape’s west side is a No. 62. The elevated expressway skirts the city and places compact little port lined with simple seafood eateries where you down back on No. 2 on the city’s northernmost edge. you point out your food, still swimming in tanks, before Just east of the 47-km marker, and just af ter you’ve sitting down. The Taiwanese are passionate about the word passed through a long tunnel that pierces another cape, “fresh,” and this place is packed like a sardine school on is the turnoff to the f ishing port of Yeliu and Yeliu weekends.

Geopark (entrance fee required). The town and port are I announced way back at the beginning that our off icial at the tip of the cape, and the park is at the tip of the end-point this day would be Fugui Cape, but this was a little town, on a headland sliver that resembles an upside-down white lie. My Deuce outings are always capped with a sunset crooked f inger. Bizarre sandstone formations on the rocky at a highway-side café, and on the advice of some expatriate Rock formation near Nanya on friends I’d like to treat you to a cup of good coffee-bean the northeast coast cheer at the OIA Art Café, located just west of the 16.5-km marker. It is one among a cluster of roadside cafés featuring alfresco seating out back looking over a broad boardwalk and a wave-brushed tidal f lat a few hundred meters wide, many dressed up in Mediterranean style. Named af ter Oia village on the island of Santorini, it is indeed like a little slice of Greece on the Taiwan shore, done up in blue trim highlighting the bright white, complemented with quaint home-made artistic touches that are like splashes of pastel color on a simple blue-white canvas. OIA has a wide range of Western and Taiwanese snack and hot foods, and is open from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. weekdays, midnight weekends/ holidays (2 a.m. in the summer).

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Travel in Taiwan

Photos / Vision Int'l

THE BEST ROUTE

No

N

East China Sea

rth

Fugui Cape

a Co st

Jinshan

Yeliu

Danshui Feicuiwan

Bitou Cape

2

Longdongwan Jiufen

1

Fulong

Taipei City

The menu of sites explored on this occasion was chosen as a demonstration sampling, all tackled on a single, very long day. Not a one got the full time it deserved. I strongly suggest that you spread them over at least two days, most logically with the northeast coast the f irst day, a stay in/around Keelung that night, and the north coast the next day. Quality hotel accommodations are concentrated in Keelung and the north coast’s Feicuiwan (Emerald/Green Bay), just east of Yeliu.

There are also a number of hot-spring spas around the north coast town of Jinshan, and the region offers more and more quality homestays of iconoclastic character.

Beyond the café and Fugui Cape eateries already mentioned, other good food options are the popular cluster of seafood restaurants that line the highway at Aodi f ishing port, at the 95-km mark, and Keelung City’s Miaokou Night Market, one of Taiwan’s best, located right downtown near the harbour on Ren 3rd Rd. and Ai 4th Rd. There are hundreds of stalls, despite the “night” in the name it is open in the daytime too, and I strongly recommend Practical Info

st ea r th No oast C

Keelung City

Sandiao Cape

Sandiao Cape

the tianbula, which as you can tell from the pronunciation is Taiwan’s yummy version of tempura.

A wealth of helpful detail on the many places to visit, stay, and eat awaits you at the following online locations: Taiwan Tourism Bureau (www.taiwan.net.tw), North Coast & Guanyinshan National Scenic Area (www.northguan-nsa.gov.tw), Northeast and Yilan Coast National Scenic Area (www.necoast-nsa.gov.tw), and Keelung Off icial Tourist Information Website (tour.kclg.gov.tw).

Happy trails, and smooth sailing! {ENGLisH & CHINESE}

Feicuiwan Fugui Cape Fugui Cape Lighthouse Fugui Cape Park Jinshan Longdong Tunnel Longdongwan Cape Trail Miaokou Night Market Sandiao Cape Sandiao Cape Lighthouse

翡翠灣 富貴角 富貴角燈塔 富貴角公園 金山 龍洞隧道 龍洞灣岬步道

tianbula

甜不辣 野柳 野柳地質公園

Yeliu Yeliu Geopark

廟口夜市 三貂角 三貂角燈塔

OiA ART CAFÉ (伊亞藝術咖啡館 ) Tel: (02) 2636 -3766 Add: 19 -1, Beishizi, Houcuo Village,

Sanzhi District, New Taipei City ( 新北市三芝區後厝村北勢子19 -1號 )

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a train in the city, hop on at he g rin te el sw the sea, y, One summer da er scener y, villages, riv , lls hi n ee gr s, rb bu northbound: city, su the BEACH!!! ering about, r, feeling free, wand mmer. te wa y lt sa , nd sa e smell of su Shoes of f, smooth point and shoot. Th s, nd ie fr w ne , m ea ice-cr HAPPINESS! Phot os/ Je n- Guo

36

Travel in Taiwan

Chen

LOMO STYLE

37

Travel in Taiwan

FOOD JOURNEY A tea f armer in Pinglin examines his tea bushes

38

Travel in Taiwan

PINGLIN

Hills Shrouded in Mist Visiting Pinglin, One of the Best Areas for Growing Tea in Taiwan Surrounded by verdant hills covered with tea plantations, and home to an excellent tea museum, the town of Pinglin is a premium destination for those who want to learn about and get close to tea cultivation in Taiwan.

By Richard Saunders

Standing

Xindian, Taipei City’s southernmost suburb; you get to on top of a steep ridge admiring Pinglin in about an hour, with a succession of inspiring the magnif icent view, we see views en route through this beautif ul section of the the hillside dropping away steeply on either side of the island, and glimpses over the deep aquamarine waters little track, which is barely wide enough for a car. Row of the Feicui Reservoir, which snakes through a series of upon row of neatly trimmed little tea bushes with small, deep valleys to the right of the road. leathery, dark-green leaves wind around the curves of the Pinglin’s location in the catchment area of incline like contour lines on a map. Other, Pinglin is a lot cooler, Feicui Reservoir has had an important impact on similar f ields cling to the equally precipitous damper, and mistier than the town’s development, or rather preservation. hillsides across the deep valley. It’s still a the rest of the island Pinglin exists in a kind of time bubble, and month before the busy tea-harvesting season while new development has come to almost every other starts, but as we enjoy the splendid views, we see a tea town and larger village in the Taipei area in the last farmer below us scrutinizing the little bushes for signs decade or so, the center of Pinglin, amazingly, looks of insect or f ungal damage. As we are to f ind out, a tea hardly any different now than in the 1990s. Nestled in a farmer’s work is never done! deep valley, the town is laid out along the Beishi River, We’re in the hills high above Pinglin, in eastern New whose clear water is an enchanting shade of blue-green Taipei City (until recently called Taipei County), one of in sunny weather. Nearly all the 6,000 or so inhabitants Taiwan’s main tea-growing areas and the source of the of the little town are involved in some way with the tea island’s best Baozhong tea. industry, and most of the businesses lining the main road Two main roads lead to Pinglin, deep in the emeraldthrough town are either shops selling tea leaves, eateries green foothills of the Snow Mountain Range, about 30 serving local inhabitants, or small restaurants cooking up kilometers southeast of the capital. This little town delicious, tea-inspired dishes for visiting tourists. would be worth visiting just to enjoy the scenic beauty of the drive. National Highway No. 5, a f reeway that is one of the best places in Taiwan opened in 2006, zips visitors f rom the center of Taipei for growing tea, partly due to the City to Pinglin in less than 30 minutes by car, and northeast monsoon, which ensures that this region is a lot when not passing through long tunnels the elevated cooler, damper, and mistier during winter and early spring carriageway presents wide, gorgeous vistas over densely than the rest of the island. The area’s tea plantations, at wooded, sparsely populated hill country. Even more scenic an elevation of 200 to 600 meters above sea level, receive is the old route, Provincial Highway No. 9, which connects 3,000-4000 millimeters of rain annually, and the average

Photo / Steven Chang

Pinglin

39

Travel in Taiwan

FOOD JOURNEY

40

Travel in Taiwan

The

Photos / Audrey Wang, vision int'l

Pinglin’s main crop is Baozhong tea — the town is the main producer of this variety in Taiwan

temperature is a cool 18°C – conditions generally found elsewhere on the island only at higher elevations. The area’s farmers specialize in two kinds of tea: Dong Fang Mei Ren (Oriental Beauty) and Baozhong. The f irst, picked in small quantities here during the scorching height of summer, is unique in that it relies on the bites of insects called leaf hoppers, which trigger the bushes into releasing a natural chemical deterrent into the leaves. It’s this substance (perfectly safe for human consumption) that makes the tea so special. However, since Oriental Beauty tea is harvested just once a year, and is produced f rom only the bud and top two leaves of the shoot, it’s expensive and quite scarce. main crop of Pinglin is Baozhong tea – the town is the main producer of this variety in Taiwan. As with other kinds of tea, the raw ingredient is the leaf of the Camellia sinensis plant; the distinctive f lavor, aroma, and color of the tea comes f rom the very specif ic fermentation and drying process the leaves are subjected to. Lightly fermented Baozhong tea, with its rich, amber color, is produced in winter and spring, when the tea bushes yield four harvests. Choosing the correct time to pick the young shoots is essential, as there’s a window of only about a week during which the leaves have the desired maturity.

The shoots must be picked on a dry day, preferably during the three or four hours around noon, when they contain the most nutrients. The leaves are then rushed back for the f irst of six processing steps, which must be completed within an 18-24 hour period. The f irst (and most critical) is fermentation. In southern Taiwan, this stage is of ten accomplished by leaving the leaves out in the sun; in Pinglin, however, where it is of ten cloudy, they are placed in special drums through which hot air is blown, inducing fermentation and developing f lavor. The exact timing varies, but the correct duration is crucial to obtaining the best possible f lavor, and requires much experience.

Next, the leaves are laid in large, shallow bamboo trays, where they are stirred, f irst by hand and then in a machine for a slightly more vigorous agitation, processes which lightly bruise them (releasing the oil trapped inside the half-dried leaves) and introduces air, allowing the oil to oxidize, and thus intensif ying the f lavor. This is by far the longest step in the making of Baozhong tea, taking up to 14 hours.

The leaves are then poured into an oven, where they’re dried at 300°C for about 6 minutes, which halts the fermentation process. They are next wrapped up in a piece of cloth formed into a large ball, then rolled in a curious contraption which both twists the leaves into long, curly strips and causes the release of natural oil. Final drying

PINGLIN in a pair of ovens, one hot, the second cooler, and a second rolling completes the process. production is a complicated and timeconsuming process, and a great place to discover more about this fascinating industry is to visit the excellent Pinglin Tea Museum, on the edge of town beside an idyllic blue meandering stretch of the Beishi River. Opened in 1997 the museum is looking great af ter being ref urbished in late 2010. Laid out on two f loors, it covers all aspects of the history of making and drinking tea, using a combination of photos, charts, and waxwork exhibits. One section charts tea production during the last thousand and more years, f rom the Tang Dynasty (618-907) to the present day, and another fascinating area is devoted to the tea-drinking culture. All the exhibits are labeled in English. The central courtyard is studded with f lowering camellias, beautif ul cousins of the tea bushes growing in the hills above. Off the courtyard is a gif t shop that stocks an amazing array of tea-related products: tea leaves and tea bags (f rom all over Taiwan), tea sets for “old man’s tea” (more ceremonial tea preparation), tea candy, tea soap, tea oil, tea jelly, tea ice cream, and even tea noodles! The museum is open every day f rom 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., and admission is f ree. Right next door is a tea 古華花園_自_1-2W_E_110426.pdf 2011/4/26 9:44:53 AM pavilions dotted shop, with pretty little ornamental

Tea

around a small but beautif ully landscaped garden.

Tea may be Pinglin’s raison d’être, but af ter touring the museum and enjoying a meal in one of the town’s tea-cuisine restaurants, there’s also the beautif ul surroundings to be enjoyed. Take the trail starting beside the town's oldest temple, near the end of the town’s attractive Old Street, up the hillside behind for a very f ine view over the town and its ubiquitous tea f ields. As said, Pinglin is perhaps the best place in Taiwan to learn a little about the production of Taiwan's favorite drink (and experience the atmosphere of a way of life that has largely vanished in most other places around Taipei), but as the wonderf ul view here demonstrates, it’s also an exceedingly lovely slice of countryside.

{ENGLisH & CHINESE}

Baozhong tea Beishi River Dong Fang Mei Ren tea Feicui Reservoir “old man’s tea” Old Street Pinglin Snow Mountain Range Xindian

包種茶 北勢溪 東方美人茶 翡翠水庫 老人茶 老街 坪林 雪山山脈 新店

PiNGLiN TEA MUsEUM (坪林茶葉博物館 )

Add: 19 -1, Shuisong Qikeng, Shuide Village, Pinglin District, New Taipei City (新北市坪林區水德村水聳淒坑19-1號) Tel: (02) 2665 - 6035

41

Travel in Taiwan

LET'S EAT!

Tea Cuisine The health benefits of tea are these days well-known, so the idea of using it in the preparation of food makes excellent sense, especially when using tea leaves that are especially high in antioxidants, such as those used for producing green or Baozhong tea.

Shunyi Teahouse in Pinglin is a fine example of how locally produced tea leaf and tea-seed oil can be used in a wide variety of dishes, from mountainpork sausages to pesto sauce. By Richard Saunders

42

Travel in Taiwan

Photos / Audrey Wang, Vision Int'l

Tasting Delicious Dishes Made with Tea Leaf and Tea Seed Oil

TEA CUISINE

Shunyi

Teahouse occupies pole position on the main street running through Pinglin: a large, simply decorated place, its greatest asset (apart f rom the delicious food) is its location right beside the aquamarine waters of the Beishi River. Tables on the partially covered balcony out the back give wonderf ul views over the river (f illed with f ish that glint as they wriggle against the fast-f lowing current and studded with members of the various bird species that feed on them).

The teahouse uses f resh, locally sourced ingredients in its dishes as much as possible, making its own teaf lavored sausages (a top seller), and using locally made tof u and chickens raised by a member of the owner’s family. At the heart of most of the dishes on offer are Baozhong tea leaf and tea-seed oil, the latter crushed f rom the seeds of local tea bushes grown especially for this purpose.

Milder than the bitter tea oil produced in the Alishan area in the centersouth of the island, Pinglin tea-seed oil is also great for cooking, as it retains its f lavor well when heated to high temperatures, and is richer in antioxidants than even olive oil, for which it is substituted in several dishes at Shunyi. According to scientif ic studies, Baozhong tea has three times the amount of antioxidants found in black tea, so it’s a healthy, as well as tasty, ingredient in any dish.

Shunyi’s most famous dish is probably its sausage, f lecked with dark specks of Baozhong tea leaf, which imparts a subtle and quite delicious f lavor to the meat; packs of the uncooked sausages are available to go, and can even be delivered to clients as far away as Taipei. trying Shunyi’s signature sausages, we tucked into a selection of the teahouse’s other tea-themed delicacies.

The tea-leaf omelet was novel, the

dark-brown leaf imparting a pleasant color as well as f lavor to what would have otherwise been an unremarkable dish. Another simple but surprisingly tasty idea was the tea-seed oil rice: a mound of steamed white rice drizzled with delicately amber-colored tea oil.

Next up came tof u f ried in teaseed oil with spring onions, ginger, rice wine, carrot, and chili. We’d already tried the locally-made tof u earlier in the day at another eatery – and very good it was too – but the Shunyi version, f ried until browned on the outside, yet remaining sof t and smooth inside, was a f lavor-f illed hit.

The f ree-range chicken and pork-rib soup with whole tea leaves met with similar approval, but the unexpected highlight of the meal was the teaseed oil f ried rice with pesto. Using its own house-made pesto (in which teaseed oil is substituted for the usual olive oil), the Shunyi version of this old Chinese standard was the tastiest

fried rice this writer has had for many moons.

Shunyi Teahouse was quite an eye-opener for someone whose only previous experience with tea cuisine was his mom’s bread pudding (soaking bread crumbs in cold tea rather than milk).

The humble tea leaf and tea-seed oil, when used with imagination and creativity, each brings a distinctive and delicious f lavor to a variety of traditional dishes. And best of all: these are two additives that are truly healthy as well!

sHUNYi TEAHOUsE ( 順益茶館 ) Tel: (02) 2665 - 6090 Add: 154 -3 Shuiliu Jiao, Pinglin District, New Taipei City ( 新北市坪林區水柳腳 154 -3 號 ) {ENGLisH & CHINESE}

Alishan Baozhong tea Beishi River Pinglin

Tea-leaf omelet

阿里山 包種茶 北勢溪 坪林

Tea-flavored sausages

Tofu fried in tea-seed oil

Tea-seed oil rice

Af ter

43

Travel in Taiwan

HISTORY

Hualien: A Living Relic

On a typical visit to Hualien County travelers will satiate their mochi cravings and feast on gorgeous Taroko Gorge scenery. There is much more to this area, however, waiting to be unraveled. The region is a locus of not just Han Chinese and indigenous culture but of Taiwan-based Japanese culture as well. It boasts scores of historical sites, remnants of flawlessly planned but ultimately unsuccessful immigrant villages, temples, tea plantations, and more – all from the period of Japanese occupation. By Linda Chu

Japanese-style Qingxiu Temple in Jian Township

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Travel in Taiwan

HUALIEN

Photos / Yannick Cariot, Sunny Su

Located

Today

on the east coast of Taiwan, the , traces of the Japanese occupation and city of Hualien has a population of immigration scheme still remain. In about 110,000. It is the capital of Hualien County, which has Fengtian, Japanese-style houses are hidden amidst rows a population of about 340,000. While the city is neither the of newly erected buildings. Community organizations largest nor the most populous on the island, it is certainly have dedicated their efforts to preserving these and other one of the richest in terms of historical and cultural assets. structures and to sharing the history with others. Many of Prior to Japanese rule (1895~1945), the name of the city/ these half-century-old buildings now have modern uses. county was Kilai, reference to an indigenous term. Since this name sounds like the term for “dislike” (kirai) in Japanese, the Japanese administration changed the name to a term pronounced “Hualien” in Mandarin Chinese in the early 20th century, and the new name stuck.

A pause to look beyond the modern shops and storefronts and a short step into one of the numerous historical landmarks that dot the city and surrounding county quickly force one’s imagination back to the Hualien of days past. Evidence of the Japanese presence is everpresent.

During the First Sino-Japanese War (1894–1895), on March 5 Way House in 23, 1895, the residents of the Penghu Islands were abruptly Fengshan Village awakened by the deafening sound of large cannons being f ired in rapid succession. In an almost bloodless encounter A few steps from the Fengtian Railway Station is a the Japanese occupied their home. On April 17, 1895, the Japanese-style hut that houses a thrif t shop called 5 Way people of the island of Taiwan awoke to life-changing news: House. At f irst glance, it seems nothing much more than a They were no longer Chinese citizens, but rather Japanese place with other people’s unwanted junk. But this shop is subjects. A defeated and defenseless China had ceded parts special, one reason being that it is run by students with of its empire, including Taiwan and the Penghu Islands, to the guidance of counselors from the Hualien County Nou-Li Japan. A new epoch in Taiwan history had begun.

InterCommunity Association.

The Japanese were intent on transforming Taiwan into Accepting donations ranging from pots to mosquito a model colony that in its eyes would gain it the respect of traps, this thrif t shop is part of a youth program, and all the world. The Taiwanese were, ultimately, to be assimilated proceeds go towards the program’s funding. Like other rural into the Japanese culture. Change permeated every aspect of communities in Taiwan, those in Hualien face the problem life – and one of the chosen centers of life for the Japanese of an aging population, with most members of the younger on the island was none other than the city of Hualien and generation relocating to the city for work, only the elderly its surrounding area. Why Hualien, you ask?

The Japanese were intent and the youngest remaining. This program (open Af ter much research, the Japanese to youth of all ages) was started to mitigate on transforming Taiwan government found this area most suitable this problem. into a model colony that for its purposes – i.e., initiating a series of It’s diff icult to discern the lifestyle of the in its eyes would gain it former Japanese occupants just by looking at meticulously planned immigrant villages.

One goal was to ease population stresses in the respect of the world the old residences in this area. But clearly, the home islands. Hualien was lush, fertile, it was not all smooth sailing. To ease bouts mountainous, and had good ports with easy access from of homesickness, these early pioneers brought along some inland areas. The Japanese even relocated citizens from essential comforts of home for transplanting – among parts of Japan that had conditions most closely resembling them religious beliefs, public baths, and even those of Hualien. pine trees!

Jiye (Yoshino) Village, located in Jian Township, and One notable site of worship, Qingxiu Fengtian (Toyota) Village, situated in Fenglin Township, Temple, was built in Jian in 1917. Today it’s emerged as two of the most prosperous settlements. Village the only Japanese temple in Taiwan that’s grids were laid out like the squares of a chessboard; even still completely preserved. It houses 88 stone the f loors of the houses were square-shaped. They had Buddha sculptures, one brought over to Taiwan everything from clinics, shrines, and schools to off ices that from each of the temples in Shikoku, the home provided farming technology. island in Japan for many of these immigrants.

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Travel in Taiwan

HISTORY

3

2

1

6 4 5

1. At Qingxiu Temple 2. Pine Garden 3. Statue of the Japanese man who introduced the planting of cof fee trees in Hualien 4. Guesthouse at Hualien Sugar Factory 5. Old Yamato Factory dormitory 6.

Japanese- style gate in Fengtian village

While prayer nourished the soul, public baths (precursor to hot-spring resorts) rejuvenated the body. This beloved Japanese custom is today an inseparable part of life in Taiwan for local folk as well, ranking high on the list of favorite leisure activities. Particularly popular is the openair Ruisui Hot Spring, minutes from the Ruisui Railway Station. Constructed in 1917, it originally had a public bath and a Japanese-style hotel. This secluded, serene spa has Taiwan’s only natural hot spring with high iron content, the iron oxidizing when exposed to air and giving the water an unusual yellow tint. Legend has it that a soak in this hot spring will increase one’s chances of having a baby boy!

If a hot soak in a pristine natural setting didn’t ease the pangs of homesickness, gazing at pine trees brought from home would sometimes help. Built in 1943, today’s Pine Garden was a Japanese naval base during World War

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Travel in Taiwan

II. With 60 (originally nearly 200) large, century-old pine trees , the tranquil garden sits on a plateau and faces the estuary of the Meilun River, which f lows out to the Pacif ic Ocean. It’s been said that on the eve of their suicide missions, kamikaze pilots would enjoy their last supper here, f inishing with a toast of rice wine bestowed by the Japanese emperor. Today you can sit back and savor the history while savoring a cup of premium local tea.

Industrialization was an important goal of the Japanese colonial administration, which initiated large-scale sugar and tea production as well as, to a lesser extent, coffee.

Sugarcane was by far the leading cash crop of the time.

One of the leading ref ineries was the Yamato Factory (now Hualien Sugar Factory), which though it no longer ref ines sugar is certainly a place where visitors can meander about to get a good sense of the past, tour the Sugar Factory

Photos / Yannick Cariot, Sunny Su

On the eve of their suicide missions, kamikaze pilots would enjoy their last supper at Pine Garden

HUALIEN Japanese restaurant“Imari ”

{ENGLisH & CHINESE}

Guesthouse of Hualien Sugar Factory

Fengtian Railway Station Fengtian (Toyota) Village Hualien Hualien County Nou-Li InterCommunity Association Ji’an Township Jiye (Yoshino) Village

Kilai Meilun River Penghu Islands Qingxiu Temple Ruisui Hot Springs Ruisui Railway Station

Museum, and then cool down with a bowl of its famous shaved-ice desserts. You can also rent one of the newly renovated Japanese-built bungalows for a few days, waking up to the sounds of chirping birds and cascading water.

If sugar isn’t your cup of tea, there’s also coffee. At the Dongsen Tea Shop, sip on a cup of coffee brewed from beans harvested from those very trees brought by the Japanese over a century ago.

When all is said and done, the most important attraction of all – food, of course – is not to be missed. While there are numerous Japanese restaurants in the city of Hualien, Imari stands out as the most creative and authentic.

Located in the city’s heart this is a dream come true for the owners, Mr. and Mrs. Maeda. They started this restaurant because of their love for food and their desire to create HUALiEN sUGAR FACTORY ( 花蓮光復糖廠 ) Add: 19, Tangchang St., Dajin

DONGsEN TEA HOUsE ( 東昇茶行 ) Add: 356 -1, 13 Lin, Wuhe Village,

Village, Guangfu Township, Hualien County ( 花蓮縣光復鄉糖廠街 19 號 ) Tel: (03) 870 - 5881 http://www.hualiensugar.com.tw/

Ruisui Township, Hualien County(花蓮 縣瑞穗鄉舞鶴村 256之1號) Tel: (03) 887-1878, 0933- 486 -946

iMARi (伊万里 ) Add: 86, Sec. 4, Zhongyang Rd.,

HUALiEN COUNTY NOULi iNTERCOMMUNiTY AssOCiATiON (牛犁社區交流協會 ) Add: 37, Zhongxing St., Shoufeng

Hualien City, Hualien County ( 花蓮市中央路四段 86 號 ) Tel: (03) 846 -3388 www.imari.com.tw

Township, Hualien County(花蓮縣壽 鄉 豐山村中興街37號) Tel: (03) 865 - 0423

豐田車站 豐田村 花蓮 花蓮縣牛犁社 區交流協會 吉安鄉 吉野村 奇萊 美崙溪 澎湖群島 慶修院 瑞穗溫泉 瑞穗車站

Japanese cuisine that suits Taiwanese taste buds. For instance, the Taiwanese are not accustomed to eating cold foods, so in Imari’s beautifully designed and extensive set meal, which includes everything from the freshest sashimi to four types of dessert, the bowl of warming miso soup and the piping-hot right-out-of-the-steamer chawan-mushi (Japanese egg custard) are served directly af ter (or along with) the cold sashimi dishes.

Even though Hualien city and county may have taken a political and economic back seat to booming areas in other parts of Taiwan, there is no doubt it remains a hub of culture. Although the Japanese returned to their homeland af ter WW II, remnants of their inf luence are so harmonized with local life that it’s diff icult to discern what is Japanese and what is Taiwanese.

5 WAY HOUsE ( 五味屋 ) Add: 34, Zhanqian St., Fengshan Village, Shoufeng Township, Hualien County ( 花蓮縣壽豐鄉豐山村站前街34號 ) Tel: (03) 865 - 6922 www. 5 wayhouse.org (Chinese)

QiNGXiU TEMPLE ( 慶修院 ) Add: 345 -1, Zhongxing Rd., Jian Township, Hualien County ( 花蓮縣吉安鄉中興路 345 -1號 ) Tel: (03) 852- 9905

PiNE GARDEN (松園別館 ) Add: 26, Shuiyuan St., Hualien City, Hualien County ( 花蓮縣花蓮市水源街 26 號 ) Tel: (03) 835 - 6510 www.pinegarden.com.tw (Chinese)

RUisUi HOT sPRiNG REsORT ( 瑞穗溫泉山莊 ) Add: 23, Hongye Village, Wanrong Township, Hualien County ( 花蓮縣萬榮鄉紅葉村 34 號 ) Tel: (03) 887-2170, 887- 0824 www.js-hotpring.com.tw (Chinese)

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Travel in Taiwan

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Peculiar Taiwan

The Dao of the Local Table

By Rick Charette

Been

on the island awhile now and wielding a mean set of chopsticks? Pretty comf y with the etiquette of the local

table? Let’s roll that videotape and see how you’ve done.

The one big no-no is sticking your chopsticks straight up in your bowl. This resembles the incense sticks in censers during rites for the

deceased, and you’re inviting Death to visit. Do this in a restaurant and you’re inviting this for the proprietor. Another no-no is to point your chopsticks at anyone, which is like wielding a weapon – you’re wishing them harm.

Something Westerners will do is lick yummy juicy stuff from their fingers. Yes, another no-no. Chinese society has long understood the dirtiness of hands – one reason for the traditional lack of handshakes.

Hey~!

You’ll see people at KFC and McDonald’s holding chicken and burgers in paper napkins to avoid hand contact.

Guilty on any counts? Fret not. I’ve learned first-hand that any faux pas is forgiven and, I’m guessing, not even pointed out, for local folk are conscious of preserving your face and generally pleased as punch you’ve an interest in their cuisine and culture.

Photos / Maggie Song

No~~!

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Travel in Taiwan

ON STAGE/OFF STAGE

Performance Workshop Fountainhead of Modern Chinese Theater

If you are looking for center stage in the universe of Taiwan live theater, you will soon hear the names “Stan Lai” and “Performance Workshop.” The first is the man with the artistic vision, the second is the vehicle through which this vision is expressed. The power of this vision is perhaps best expressed in the fact that the troupe’s greatest success, the play “Secret Love in Peach Blossom Land,” was chosen as one of the top plays of the past century. By Rick Charette

Well-known Taiwanese actors Feng Yi-kang and Chu Chung-heng play two modern-day travelers in “Crosstalk Travelers”

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Travel in Taiwan

PERFORMANCE WORKSHOP Scene from “Crosstalk Travelers”

Stan Lai

Photos / Performance Workshop

, without a doubt, is Taiwan’s most beloved and successf ul playwright/director. He stands at the head of the vanguard of modern Chinese theater, with 30 original plays to date. His most famous work, Secret Love in Peach Blossom Land (1986), has toured the world, and was made into an award-winning f ilm in 1992. Over a thousand unauthorized productions of the work have been staged to date in China, and the f ilm is used as a standard reference model in f ilm and drama programs.

A more recent work, T he V illage (2008), delves into the world of the military dependents’ villages created in Taiwan by Chiang Kai-shek and his Nationalist government af ter losing mainland China to the Communists in the late 1940s. It has been acclaimed by the Bei jing News, amongst others, as the most signif icant Chinese work of the past decade, “the pinnacle of our era of theater.”

What most people think of when you mention Performance Workshop, however, is its revival of a traditional form of theater that, until Lai moved to revive it, was almost def unct in Taiwan. It is called “crosstalk,” or “comic dialogue,” and Western readers might think of it as, in its purest form, the Chinese version of stand-

up comedy. Typically, two actors stand on a stage that has only the most basic of props and backdrops, if any at all, and engage in rapid-f ire repartee on all manner of subjects. The talk is dialogue, not stand-up jokes, and there is nothing we would call “vaudevillian.” Lai has created f ive crosstalk works to date, all extremely popular, the most recent this year’s widely acclaimed Crosstalk Travelers.

T he Search f or Meaning Af ter a recent evening spent joyf ully watching a performance of Crosstalk Travelers at Taipei’s National Theater, I had the good fortune to spend an agreeable few hours speaking with the troupe’s managing director, Ding Nai-chu, at a local café. Ding is Stan Lai’s work partner, his wife and thus life partner, and is also a respected actress and producer.

“If there’s one theme that runs through all our plays, all the scripts that Stan has created, it is the search for the truly meaningf ul in life as we face its demands and struggle “(Secret Love in Peace Blossom Land) may be the most popular contemporary play in China…by the end, the audience is left to contemplate the burdens of memory, history, longing, love and the power of theater itself.”

(The New York Times)

through the travails it forces upon us. From sorrow comes joy, because of understanding and hope.”

For example, Peach Blossom Land explores the all-too-familiar story of Chinese people forced to leave their homes. T he V illage depicts the diff iculties of life in a Taiwan military dependents’ village populated by the families of Nationalist soldiers uprooted f rom their lives in China when Chiang Kai-shek lost the mainland, where joy and meaning are found in the face of poverty and an insecure social position. “In our most recent production, Crosstalk Travelers, we travel the world vicariously via the experience of two stranded globetrotting characters, showing that many people travel but ‘see’ nothing and at the same time showing there is also great meaning in the everyday, close to home.”

Performance Workshop plays address and incorporate elements of traditional life and traditional theatrical forms, “but Stan always wants to push at theatrical boundaries, and to make our productions relevant for contemporary audiences and modern-day existence.”

Thus, the plot of Peach Blossom Land has two theater troupes forced to rehearse in one location; this treats the audience to one troupe working on a comedy in medieval costume and the other on a tragedy with a decidedly contemporary setting.

In Crosstalk Travelers you have two modern-day travelers f rom Taiwan stranded on an unnamed islandcountry af ter a revolution. “Crosstalk,” explains Ding,“ is an ancient Chinese theatrical form, but only in certain segments do the actors f ully adhere to the technique in its traditional strict and highly stylized/formalized presentation style; instead, for the most part the play will strike the crosstalk-uninitiated as an easily accessible two-man play,” with modern costume, props, background, and subject matter. “Stan became enamored with

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Travel in Taiwan

ON STAGE / OFF STAGE

“Stan is probably the best Chinese-language playwright and director right now.”

(Int’l Herald Tribune)

reappear with a completed blueprint we can use to work on with our chosen actors, developing characters and detailed dialogue.”

Creative Genesis

Performance Workshop has off ices in the Taipei suburb of Xizhi, but no permanent studio. When a script outline is ready, actors are chosen. “We have about 16 actors in the troupe, but when we cast a play we choose f rom both inside and outside. We do not ‘raise’ our own talent and keep them only in our own tent. Stan will cast the actor he considers best for a specif ic role, and there are a number of leading actors with great range that he has worked with many times – the two leads in Crosstalk Travelers perfect examples.”

When Lai has decided to consolidate an idea, he will lock himself away for about a week, emerging with a workable f ramework.

“Wherever he goes he is constantly writing down inspirations,” says Ding. “I f ind them written down on all types of paper, and gather them for him, for he quickly moves on. I dare not throw anything away or assume even the smallest scrap can be declared garbage. He’ll then more or less disappear for a week or so, distracted f rom other matters, and

In the troupe’s early years actors were not so busy, with opportunities fewer. Since the lif ting of martial law in the late 1980s opportunities have exploded, on stage as well as in f ilm and television. The result is that actors have far less time to commit to a project. “How this has impacted us,” says Ding, “is that in the past Stan liked to come up with a basic f ramework, bring his actors together, and then work out the script with heav y actor input, working as a team.

This is no longer possible, and we

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Travel in Taiwan

tend to have actors commit to projects much closer to when formal rehearsals begin. Stan is thus obliged to evolve a much more detailed outline; in fact, a completed initial script is now the norm, though signif icant changes are made during rehearsals with actor input, especially with those we are used to working with.

T he Immediate Future Ding says that the troupe will be performing almost without break well into next year, both at home and abroad. Among the highlights for theater af icionados in Taiwan this year will be two special presentations of T he V illage in September and a “rock musical play” Lai is creating for this year’s Republic of China centennial celebrations. For more detailed information, visit www.pwshop.com

{ENGLisH & CHINESE}

crosstalk

Crosstalk Travelers Ding Nai-chu Performance Workshop

相聲 那一夜，在旅途中說相聲 丁乃竺 表演工作坊

暗戀桃花源 Secret Love In Peach Blossom Land

Stan Lai

The Village Xizhi

賴聲川 寶島一村 汐止

Photos / Performance Workshop

crosstalk decades back while visiting China, and wanted to rejuvenate the form here in Taiwan while making it a bit more accessible for modern palates.

In his f ive crosstalk works he’s moved f rom a strictly traditional style to a modern interpretation that is still faithf ul to the original.”

The troupe has traveled the world, with stellar success. When presenting T he V illage in the West, Lai and Ding created subtitles to make the play accessible to non-Chinese speakers, using them when the occasion was appropriate. English subtitles are not used when on stage in Taiwan, however, and are not for the moment being contemplated.

LEARNING EXPERIENCE

Weaving in Wulai

Learning Handicraft Basics from a Member of the Atayal Tribe

By Kurt Weidner

If

you want to get close to indigenous culture in Taiwan and you are based in Taipei, perhaps your best option is the small town of Wulai, located in the southern part of New Taipei City (until recently “Taipei County”). Wulai, also spelled “Ulay,” is the northernmost settlement of the Atayal people, the second-largest indigenous tribe in Taiwan, whose homeland is in the foothills and mid-altitude mountains in the north of the island. Atayal women are known for their exceptional weaving skills, practicing impressively precise and of ten complicated weaving techniques. On a recent trip to Wulai we had the chance to learn about Atayal culture, and were shown the basics of inkle weaving by a local teacher, Gao Yu-lan, of the Wulai Indigenous Weaving Association.

In total there were 24 warp threads, alternating between 12 threads going across the top peg of the loom and 12 passing beneath that peg. The 12 threads that went across were held back by short threads (heddles) attached to a peg at the bottom of the loom.

3

rp

Wa

heddles For our beginner’s lesson we were shown how to thread the loom with warp (the threads that run lengthways) for a 1cm-wide and 15cm-long bracelet in three colors.

2

this is fun!

To show us the basics of weaving, Ms. Gao explained to us how an inkle loom works. This type of loom (not invented by the Atayal, but centuries ago in Europe) is placed on a table and is used to weave narrow bands. Our “classroom” was the patio behind the gift shop, with the impressive Wulai Waterfall as backdrop.

1

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Travel in Taiwan

Shuttle

Once the warp was attached to the loom, the weaving began. We simply passed the shuttle with thread (weft) from left to right and back from right to left through the opening (shed) between the warp threads, created by alternately pushing the lower warp threads up and down.

4

WEAVING Atayal Wulai, Wulai Indigenous Weaving Association

Wulai Atayal Museum (烏來泰雅族博物館)

Wulai Forestry Life Museum (烏來林業生活館)

(泰雅烏來 ；新北市烏來區原住民編織協會)

Before heading to the waterfall area you might want to make a stop at the Wulai Atayal Museum, located right on busy Wulai Old Street.

This small museum gives you a comprehensive introduction in Chinese and English to the history, the land, and the lifestyle of the Atayal tribe.

Opened earlier this year, this small museum at the waterfall area provides you with all you want to know about the fascinating story of Wulai’s mini-train line, from its construction in the 1920s as a transport link for the local lumber industry to its transformation into a means of transport for tourists starting in the late 1960s.

Add: 1 Pubu, Wulai District, New Taipei City (新北市烏來區瀑布路1號 ) Tel:0970-097-069 Email: xowulai@gmail.com

12, Wulai St., Wulai Dist., New Taipei City (新北市烏來區烏來里烏來街12號 )

Add: No.

ey

es

Tel:0970-097-069 Web: www.atayal.tpc.gov.tw

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Location: On the left side of the waterfall area ’s main street.

Mission accomplished. The design we created was very simple; Atayal weaving is usually much more complicated and sophisticated. Nevertheless, it was fun to enjoy such a hands-on indigenoushandicrafts opportunity, especially in such truly special surroundings.

7

{ENGLisH & CHINESE}

Atayal Gao Yu-lan

Atayal patterns usually have symbolic meaning. On this occasion we created a bracelet showing “eyes” on both sides and “steps” in the middle to symbolize “climbing up the ladder of success.” The center part of another bracelet shown to us by Ms. Gao resembled the facial tattoos Atayal women had in the old days, which communicated different meanings depending on type.

5

macau Wulai Wulai Waterfall

GETTING THERE

Before leaving we sat down at the café adjacent to the gift shop and tried an amazingly rich-flavored coffee.

The secret behind this coffee’s deep flavor were tiny black seeds called macau by the locals, collected in the wooded mountains around Wulai. Chewing some of the seeds presented to us released an intoxicating mix of flavors resembling lemon, ginger, and peppermint. Definitely a must-try!

8

After reaching the desired length for the bracelet it was time to cut the thread and remove the work from the loom.

Both ends of the bracelet were braided, with an opening left on one end to put through the other end when wearing it.

Photos / Sunny Su

6

泰雅族 高玉蘭 馬告 烏來 烏來瀑布

Take the MRT Xindian (Green) Line to the terminal s tation, Xindian. From there, take Xindian Bus Co. bus No. 849 to the las t s top at Wulai’s large car park.

Walk to Wulai Old (Commercial) Street, crossing one river bridge before reaching the s treet and another one w hen leaving it, and ascend a wood en s taircase to the mini train (also named “Wulai Trolley” or “Wulai Log Car t”) s tation. Take the train to the Wulai Waterfall Area (NT$50 one way). The rid e along the 1.6km line takes abou t 5 minu tes (trains run until 5pm; walking to the waterfall area takes abou t 20 minu tes). The Atayal Wulai gift shop is the firs t shop on the left w hen you walk from the railway s tation to the waterfall area.

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Travel in Taiwan

FESTIVAL

Snow-White Delight

Blossoms are all around during springtime and early summer in Taiwan. After the blooming cherry, plum, and apricot trees and the gorgeous azalea bushes in March and April, and after the recently concluded half-year-long Taipei Int’l Flora Expo flower celebration, the feast for lovers of floral beauty isn’t over just yet. The month of May is time to go out to the wooded hills of northwestern Taiwan and other parts of the island to walk under and across the snow-white blossoms of the ubiquitous tung tree.

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Travel in Taiwan

Photos / Vision Int'l

Enjoying Beautiful Blossoms and Hakka Culture during the Hakka Tung Blossom Festival By Christine Harris

TUNG BLOSSOM FESTIVAL Tung blossoms can be seen in 13 cities and counties around Taiwan Taoyuan

In

recent years the Hakka Tung Blossom Festival has become an increasingly popular happening, growing steadily in scale and drawing ever larger numbers of visitors to the tung tree forests and the many cultural events organized by local governments.

In 2010 the festival attracted a total of 6 million visitors, and this year the number is expected to rise even higher thanks to the many additional events planned in locations close to where the tung trees blossom. A total of 13 counties and cities, 45 townships and city districts, and 120 government and private organizations are involved in the organization of the festival, and more than 2,000 activities, including 34 medium- and large-scale cultural events, are being staged in April and May. get an idea of the scope of the festival, a visit to the official website at http://tung.hakka.gov. tw is highly recommended. The site has Chinese, English, and Japanese versions, and presents you detailed and practical information about the events.

Similar to the cherry-blossom forecasts

common in Japan, the site features a map showing the current status of blossoming in different parts of Taiwan, a great help when planning a trip. The map of Taiwan shows you where to find tung trees and uses icons to represent the stage of blooms, and there is a frequently updated section with recent photographs from different locations.

Making this service possible are hundreds of local volunteers who collect and document the latest information in their respective areas.

Keelung Taipei

Hsinchu Yilan Miaoli Taichung

Changhua

Nantou

Hualien

Yunlin Chiayi

Tainan Kaohsiung

Taitung

Pingtung

To

Edison Travel Service specializes in Taiwan tours and offers cheaper hotel room rates and car rental services with drivers .

Edison welcomes contact with other travel services around the world.

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Travel in Taiwan

FESTIVAL

Photo by Lin Guo-Zhang

Photo by Zhang Xiu-xiang

Though Tung trees can be found in number in many parts of Taiwan, but their concentration is highest in the counties of Miaoli and Hsinchu in the island’s northwest. These counties also have the highest concentration of Hakka people in Taiwan, an ethnic group that over the last century has had

Blossom Festival is thus held both to celebrate the beauty of the blossoms and to showcase the Hakka’s rich culture, doing much to strengthen the local economy.

The

festival gives travelers plenty of reasons to go for a hike

and visit Hakka towns and villages that are a bit off the beaten track. During the several hundred cultural events staged at this time you get the chance to taste traditional Hakka fare, listen to traditional Hakka music and watch

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Travel in Taiwan

Photo by Shi Hong-xiu

other forms of entertainment, and buy unique traditional handicrafts. The close relationship of the Hakka with the tung tree is evident in the fact that they have adopted the blossom as a symbol of their culture and as a motif on a wide variety of handicrafts, from traditional garb to innovative pottery.

a close relationship with the tree and its attractive blossoms. The Hakka Tung

Photo by Li Sheng-zhang

Photo by Luo Yi-lun

Tung Tree Blossoms

The blossoms are beloved for their colorful beauty – pure-white petals and bright-red filaments with yellow anthers. What makes them especially popular in Taiwan is their snow-like appearance; because of their large size and great numbers, trees and ground seen from afar seem to be covered with a layer of snow. When the blossoms fall to the ground in quantity they often completely cover stretches of country roads and hiking trails, not unlike fallen snow – the phenomenon often referred to as “May Snow”in Taiwan.

About the Tung Tree

The tung tree is a deciduous tree that grows up to 20 meters high. It is common in southern China, Burma, and northwestern Taiwan, and has long been used commercially for the production of tung oil, which is derived from its seeds. During the Japanese occupation of Taiwan (1895~1945), the tree was planted in large numbers in the hills of Miaoli, which offered ideal conditions for its growth. The oil was used in paint, varnish, caulking, wood finish, and for other purposes such as the coating of paper umbrellas. The wood was made into furniture, wooden clogs, toothpicks, and matches. Eventually, however, the tree lost its commercial value when cheaper synthetic alternatives to tung oil became available. The tree plantations were abandoned, and the trees soon spread at random over large neighboring areas, creating the tung-tree forests that exist today.

UPCOMING Festivals and Events from May to July 2011 Now ~ JUN 3

Now ~ JUN 30

Baosheng Cultural Festival

Penghu Fireworks Festival

保生文化祭

澎湖海上花火節 Festival celebrating the birthday of Baosheng Dadi, the Lord Protector of Life, with performances of traditional Taiwanese opera, glove-puppet shows, setting off of firecrackers, and deity parade around local streets.

Location: Baoan Temple (61, Hami St., Taipei City; 台 北市哈密街 61 號 ) Tel: (02) 2595-1676 Website: www.baoan.org.tw

Splendid firework shows lasting 15 minutes each Monday and Thursday at 9 p.m.; stage performances and concerts by local artists; a great way of ending a day of sightseeing on the islands of Penghu.

Location: Sea wall near Guanyin Pavilion and Xiyinghong Bridge, Magong City, Penghu County ( 澎湖縣馬公市觀音亭西瀛虹橋海堤 ) Tel: (06) 921-6521 Website: www.penghu-nsa.gov.tw

Now ~ AUG

MAY 26 ~ 30

North Coast Wedding Photography Contest

Taipei Food Festival & World Championship of Cookery in Taipei 台北國際食尚秀暨世界

北海岸婚紗留倩影 Contest for local and foreign photographers; photo subjects are scenic spots along the North Coast, including beaches, rock formations, seaside cafés, and cultural sites; winners receive cash prizes and the chance to exhibt their works Location: North Coast and Guanyinshan National Scenic Area ( 北海岸及觀音山國家風景區 ) Tel: (02) 8635-5151 Website: www.northguan-nsa.gov.tw

廚王台北爭霸賽 Annual festival presenting gourmet cuisine and delicious traditional snacks; this year staged at the EXPO Dome of the Taipei Int ’ l Flora Expo; chefs from Taiwan and abroad compete against each other at the World Championship of Cookery.

Location: Expo Dome, Yuanshan Park Area ( 台北花博圓 山公園區爭艷館 ) Tel: (02) 2381-3260 Website: www.cookking.com.tw

JUL 9 ~ AUG 21

APR 30 ~ JUN 26

Yilan International Children’s Folklore & Folkgame Festival

Fulong Sand Sculpture Festival 2011 福隆沙雕藝術季

宜蘭國際童玩藝術節 Fun festival for kids; water games, stage performances, exhibitions, workshops, and creative markets; great chance for children to learn about traditional games and take part in hands-on activities.

Location: Dongshan River Water Park, Wujie Township, Yilan County ( 宜蘭縣五結鄉冬山河親水公園 ) Tel: (03) 932-2440

Sand, sunshine, and sea; giant sand sculptures by master sculptors from Taiwan and abroad; sand sculpture contests and beach games for everyone Location: Fulong Beach, Gongliao District, New Taipei City ( 新北市貢寮區福隆海水浴場 ) Tel: (02) 2499-1115 ext. 228

For more information on upcoming festivals and events visit the website of the Tourism Bureau at http://eng.taiwan.net.tw and click on “Festivals” or call the 24-hour toll-free Travel Information Hotline at 0800-011765.

65

Travel in Taiwan

Advertisement HOTEL INFORMATION

Hotels of Taiwan

V

THE GRAND HOTEL 圓山大飯店

Taipei 台北

THE REGENT TAIPEI

Taipei 台 北

台北晶華酒店

isitors to Taiwan have a wide range of choice when it comes to accommodation. From five-

star luxury hotels that meet the highest international standards, to affordable business hotels, to hotspring and beach resort hotels, to privately-run homestays located in the countryside there is a place to stay that satisfies every traveler’s needs. What all hotels of Taiwan — small and big, expensive and affordable — have in common is that serve and hospitality are always of the highest standards. The room rates in the following list have been checked

No. of Rooms: 487 (Suites: 57) Room Rates:

Single/DBL NT$ 5,700 – 11,000

Suite NT$ 15,000 – 28,000 Desk Personnel Speak: English, French, Spanish, and Japanese

No. of Rooms: 538 Room Rates:

Superior Room Deluxe Room Junior Suite Corner Suite Residence Elite Suite

NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$

12,000 13,000 20,500 30,500 17,000 24,500

Restaurants: Western, Cantonese, Northern China Style Dumplings, tea house, coffee shop

Desk Personnel Speak:

Special Features: Grand Ballroom, conference rooms for 399 people, 10 breakout rooms, business center, fitness center, sauna, Olympic-size swimming pool, tennis courts, billiards

Szechuan & Cantonese Cuisine, Japanese Cuisine, Steak House & Teppanyaki, Lounge Bar, Buffet, Café

for each hotel, but are subject to change without

English, Japanese, Chinese

Restaurants:

Special Features: Executive business center, fitness center, sauna, rooftop swimming pool, SPA, ballroom and convention facilities, parking, laundry service, 24-hour room service, wireless Internet, airport transportation service

notice. Room rates at the hotels apply.

1 Chung shan N. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City, 10461 R.O.C 10 4 61台北市中山北 路 四段1號

PACIFIC BUSINESS CENTER 太平洋商務中心

Taipei 台北

MIRAMAR GARDEN TAIPEI 美麗信花園酒店

Taipei 台 北

No. of Rooms: 93 rooms, 28 offices, 4 meeting rooms Room Rates:

Superior Room NT$ 5,600+10% Executive Room NT$ 6,000+10%

Junior Room NT$ 6,800+10% Excellency Room NT$ 7,800+10%

Premium Suite NT$ 8,800+10%

No. of Rooms: 203 Room Rates:

Deluxe Room

Business Room Executive Deluxe Room

Boss Suite

Premier Suite

General Manager: Te Yao

Desk Personnel Speak: English, Japanese, Mandarin, Taiwanese, Cantonese

Desk Personnel Speak: Chinese, English Special Features: Free wireless acess, VIP lounge, private meeting rooms and secretarial services, private office rental services, high-speed ADSL broadband Internet, non-smoking floors, safety deposit box, laundry service, limousine service, airport transportation, basement parking, gym

Tel: 02.2523.8000 Fax: 02.2523.2828

www.grand-hotel.org

www.grandformosa.com.tw

台北花園大酒店

No. of Rooms: 241 Room Rates: NT$ 7,000 NT$ 8,000 NT$ 9,000 NT$ 13,000 NT$ 18,000

General Manager: Linda Chu

Restaurants: Rain Forest Café, Garden Terrace, Lounge 81

104台北市中山北路二段41號

Tel: 886.2.2886.8888 Fax: 886.2.2885.2885

TAIPEI GARDEN HOTEL

41 Chung Shan (Zhongshan) N. Rd., Sec. 2, Taipei City, 104

Superior Room Premier Room Deluxe Room Junior Suite Garden Suite

Taipei 台 北

NT$ 7,000 NT$ 8,000 NT$ 9,000 NT$ 10,000 NT$ 16,000

(All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

Desk Personnel Speak:

Japanese, English, Chinese

Restaurants: La Fusion Restaurant, La Fusion Bakery, Hanazono Japanese Restaurant, La Fusion Bar, La Fusion Deli Special Features:

TAIPEI LEADER HOTEL 立德台大尊賢會 館

No. of Rooms: 72 Room Rates:

Superior Single

Superior Twin

Deluxe Single

Leader Suite Executive Suite

Taipei 台 北

NT$ 5,500+10% NT$ 6,000+10% NT$ 6,000+10% NT$ 10,000+10% NT$ 15,000+10%

(Rooms on sale starting at NT$3,200)

Desk Personnel Speak: Japanese, English, Chinese

Special Features: Café 83 Fusion Restaurant, City View Lounge, Multi- Functional Meeting Rooms, Gym, Sauna. , Multi- Function Shower, Multi- Function Shower Room with, Massage Function (Suite) , 32”TV/DVD Player, ADSL Modem, Fax Machine Rental

Special Features:Business center, Pyramid Club - luxury executive floor, multifunctional room, Internet service, 32-inch LCD TV, garden terrace, bar, fitness club, outdoor pool, sauna, spa, aromatherapy, car park

Fitness Center, Business Center, Conference & Dining Facilities; (Rooms Facilities) 32” LCD TV/Pay Broadband Internet Access/ Multi Channel Satellite TV with Domestic and Foreign Programming/En-suite Shower and Bath/TOTO Washlet

83 Civic Boulevard, Sec. 3, Taipei City, 104 104台北市市民大道三段8 3號

1, Zhonghua Rd. Sec. 2, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City 10065

83, Roosevelt Rd. Sec. 4, Da’an District, Taipei City 10673 10673台北市大安區羅斯福路四段8 3號

Tel: 02.8780.8000 Fax: 02.8780.5000 E-mail: pbc.taipei@msa.hinet.net

Tel: 02.8772.8800 Fax: 02.8772.1010 E-mail: info@miramargarden.com.tw

10 0 6 5台北市中正 區中 華路二 段 1號

Tel: 886.2.2314.6611 Fa x: 886.2.2314.5511 E-mail: fo@taipeigarden.com.tw

Tel: 886.2.8369.2858 E-mail: ntu@leaderhotel.com

www.businesscenter.com.tw

www.miramargarden.com.tw

www.taipeigarden.com.tw

www.leaderhotel.com.tw

11F, 495 Guangfu S. Rd., Xinyi District, Taipei City 110 110 台北市 信義 區 光復 南 路 49 5 號 11樓

66

Travel in Taiwan

Advertisement HOTEL INFORMATION

GLORIA PRINCE HOTEL TAIPEI 華 泰 王 子大 飯 店

Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 220 Room Rates: Deluxe / Single / Twin & Double NT$ 7,800~8,500

Suite NT$ 9,500~20,000 Desk Personnel Speak: Chinese, English, Japanese

COSMOS HOTEL 天成大飯店

No. of Rooms: 226 Room Rates:

Superior Single

Deluxe Single

Superior Twin

Deluxe Triple

Deluxe Twin

Deluxe Suite Family Triple Room

Taipei 台 北

NT$ 3,200 ~ 3,500 NT$ 4,000 ~ 5,000 NT$ 4,000 NT$ 4,500 NT$ 4,800 ~ 5,000 NT$ 7,000 ~ 10,000 NT$ 4,300

Restaurants: La Fontaine (Western), Chiou Hwa (Chinese)

Desk Personnel Speak: Chinese, Japanese, English, Cantonese

Special Features: Coffee Shop, Fitness Center, Business Center, laundry service, meeting and banquet facilities, non-smoking floor, parking lot, airport transfer service

Cantonese, Taiwanese snacks, Jiangzhe cuisine, Gelato Café, coffee shop

Restaurants: Shanghainese,

Special Features: Conference rooms,

flower shop, barber shop, souvenir shop, parking area

43, Chunghsiao (Zhongxiao) W. Rd., Sec. 1, Taipei City, 100

ROYAL BIZ TAIPEI 金來商旅

Taipei 台 北

No. of Rooms: 48 Room Rates:

Standard Room NT$ 6,000+10%

Deluxe Room NT$ 6,500+10%

Superior Suite NT$ 7,500+10% Desk Personnel Speak: English, Chinese, Japanese, Restaurants: Lobby Lounge (Western and Chinese buffet breakfast) Special Features: Full-amenity meeting rooms, gym, business center, airport limousine service, laundry service, free mechanized parking lot, tour arrangements, currency exchange, close to the MRT system and major commercial and tourist sites.

(MRT Taipei Main Station, Exit 3) 100台北市忠孝西路一段4 3號 (台北捷運總 站3號出口)

71, Sec. 1, Jinshan S. Rd., Zhongzheng District, Taipei City 100

Fax: 02.2581.5811, 2568-2924

Tel: 02.2361.7856 Fa x: 02.2311.8921 Reser vation Hotline: 02.2311.8901 Reser vation Fa x: 02.2311.8902 E-mail: cosmos@cosmos-hotel.com.tw

www.gloriahotel.com

Tel: 02.2397.9399 Fa x: 02.2397.1399 Res. Hotline: 02.2396.9321 E-mail:rsvn@royalbiz.com.tw service@royalbiz.com.tw

www.cosmos-hotel.com.tw

369 Lin-sen (Linsen) N. Rd., Taipei City, 104 104台北市林森北路3 69號

Tel: 02.2581.8111

HOTEL SENSE 伸適商旅

Taipei 台北

君品酒店

Taipei 台 北

No. of Rooms: 286 Room Rates:

No. of Rooms: 79 Room Rates:

Superior Room

Business Room

Deluxe Room Executive Deluxe Room

Executive Suite

Sense Suite

PALAIS DE CHINE HOTEL

NT$ 7,500 NT$ 8,500 NT$ 9,500 NT$ 9,000 NT$ 10,000 NT$ 15,000

Desk Personnel Speak: English, Chinese, Japanese Restaurants: Sen Salon Restaurant

Superior Room

Deluxe Room

Family Twin Room E xecutive Superior Room Executive Deluxe Room

Junior Suite

Executive Suite

La Rose Suite

Charles V Suite

NT$ 11,000 NT$ 12,500 NT$ 14,500 NT$ 15,000 NT$ 16,500 NT$ 18,000 NT$ 21,000 NT$ 100,000 NT$ 150,000

(All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

HOTEL ÉCLAT 怡亨酒店

Taipei 台 北

No. of Rooms: 60 Room Rates:

Deluxe Room Grand Deluxe Room Premier Room Premier 9 Éclat Suite

NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$

12,000 12,500 13,000 15,000 35,000

(All rates are inclusive of 5% VAT and subject to 10% service charge)

Desk Personnel Speak:

English, Taiwanese, Chinese, Japanese, Cantonese,

Restaurants: Ming Yuen, Éclat Lounge, George Bar

Special Features: Member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World; strategically located in the most fashionable and prestigious district of Taipei; offers guests great convenience for business and entertainment; Wi-Fi connectivity and in-room business facilities; variety of meeting rooms providing the ideal venue for professional meetings, corporate functions, and social gatherings.

10 0 台北市中正 區 金 山南 路 一段71號

370, Sec. 1, Dunhua S. Rd., Da-an District, Taipei City 106 106 台北市敦化南路一段370號

Tel: 02.2784.8888 Fax: 02.2784.7888 Res. Hotline: 02.2784.8118

www.royalbiz.com.tw

FLEUR DE CHINE HOTEL 雲品酒店

Sun Moon Lake 日 月 潭

www.eclathotels.com

CHATEAU DE CHINE HOTEL 花蓮翰品酒店

No. of Rooms: 211 Room Rates:

No. of Rooms: 211 Room Rates:

Mountain View King Room NT$ 13,000~14,000 Mountain View Two Queen Room NT$ 13,000~14,000

Zen Mountain View Room NT$ 13,000~14,000

Lake View King Room NT$ 15,000~16,000

Lake View Two Queen Room NT$ 15,000~16,000

Washiki Lake View Room NT$ 15,000~16,000

Governor Lake View Suite NT$ 20,000~21,000

Royal Lake View Suite NT$ 25,000

Summit Lake View Suite NT$ 120,000

Penthouse Suite NT$ 150,000 (All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

Special Features: Business center, fitness center, meeting rooms, Club House with luxury furniture and advanced media facilities for private meetings and gatherings, wood-floored open-air Sky Garden, parking tower, close to the MRT system near Zhongshan Elemen tary school MRT station and key commercial and entertainment districts.

Desk Personnel Speak: English,Chinese, Japanese RESTAURANTS: La Rotisserie, Le Palais, Le Thé, Le Bar Special Features:Gym, business center, ballroom and function rooms, VIP salon, wireless internet, gift shop, room service, E-butler service, airport transportation service, located in an area of the city with heritage sites and tourist attractions.

477, Linsen N. Rd., Zhongshan District, Taipei City 104 104台北市中山區林森北路477號

No.3, Sec. 1, Chengde Rd., Taipei City 10351

No.23, Zhongzheng Rd., Sun Moon Lake, Yuchi Township, Nantou County 55546

10 3 51台北市承德 路 一段 三號

Tel: 02.7743.1000 Fax: 02.7743.1100

5 5 5 4 6 南 投 縣 魚 池 鄉日月潭中正 路2 3 號

Tel: 02.2181.9999 Fax: 02.2181.9988

www.hotelsense.com.tw

www.palaisdechinehotel.com

Tel: 049.285.6788 Fax: 049.285.6600

Desk Personnel Speak: Chinese, English, Japanese RESTAURANT:Chinese food, buffet, teppanyaki, afternoon tea, lobby lounge, rooftop restaurant

Special Features:Banquet and conference facility, VIP lounge, boutique, wireless internet, e-butler, laundry service, room service, parking, SPA, hotspring, play ground, swimming pool, gym, HSR transportation service, out circular concourse, trail hiking, etc.

www.fleurdechinehotel.com

Superior Single Room Superior Twin Room Superior Triple Room Superior Family Room Deluxe Family Room Deluxe Suite Room Executive Suite Room

Hualien 花 蓮

NT$ 4,800 NT$ 5,400 NT$ 6,000 NT$ 6,600 NT$ 7,800 NT$ 8,800 NT$ 16,800

(All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

Desk Personnel Speak: English, Taiwanese, Chinese, Japanese

Restaurants: Western buffet-style, Chinese Special Features: Multifunctional banquet and meeting facilities, business center, male and female saunas, rental facilities for cars and bicycles, lounge bar, children’s games room, fitness center, chess room, outdoor swimming pool, green eco-pond, free transport to railway station and airport.

No.2, Yongxing Rd., Hualien City, Hualien County 97060 97060花蓮市永興路2號

Tel: 03.823.5388 Fax: 03.822.1185

hualien.chateaudechine.com

67

Travel in Taiwan

Advertisement HOTEL INFORMATION SUNWORLD DYNASTY HOTEL TAIPEI

Taipei 台 北

王朝大酒店

No. of Rooms: 738 Room Rates: Deluxe Room NT$ 7,700

Premier Room Junior Suite Deluxe Suite Executive Suite

NT$ 8,200 NT$ 9,200 NT$ 11,500 NT$ 17,500

EXECUTIVE CLUB FLOOR

Deluxe Room Premier Room Deluxe Suite Executive Suite

NT$ 9,000 NT$ 9,500 NT$ 15,000 NT$ 21,000

TAIPEI GALA HOTEL 慶 泰大 飯 店

Taipei 台 北

No. of Rooms: 160 Room Rates:

Single Room NT$ Deluxe Single Room NT$ Deluxe Twin Room NT$ Suite Room NT$

4,200 4,600 5,000 6,600

SAN WANT HOTEL TAIPEI 台北神旺大飯店

Taipei 台 北

阿里山賓館

No. of Rooms: 268 Room Rates:

No. of Rooms: 35

Single NT$ 6,000~ 8,800

Twin NT$ 6,800~ 9,600

Suite NT$ 8,000~ 36,800 D esk Personnel Speak:

English, Japanese, Chinese

Desk Personnel Speak:

ALISHAN HOUSE

Chiayi 嘉 義

Room Rates:

Scenery Suite NT$ 6,600 Honey Suite NT$ 6,600 Fragrant Suite NT$ 8,600 Superior Suite NT$ 9,500 VIP Suite NT$ 12,000

(Prices above not including 10% Service Charge)

Restaurants: Golden Ear Restaurant

Desk Personnel Speak:

(Western semi buffet); Golden Pot (Chinese Cuisine)

Restaurants: French All Day Dining (French), Chao Ping Ji (Cantonese & Dim-Sum), Sumie Nouvelle Japonaise Cuisine (Japanese), Pozzo Bakery, Zorro Bar

Restaurants: Le Parc Café, Magnolia Court,

Special Features: Business Center,

Special Features:

Restaurants: Chinese, Café, Courtyard

meeting rooms, airport transfer service, parking lot, laundry service, free Internet access, LCD TV, DVD player, personal safety box, mini bar, private bathroom with separate shower & bath tub, hair dryer

Two minutes walk from MRT ZhongXiao Dunhua Station. Business Center, Fitness Center, Conference Room, Banquet Room for 500 people, Free Parking for Room Guests, Free Broadband Internet Access in Guestrooms, In-Room Safe, Express/Dry Cleaning Service, Fine East and West Art Collections on Display

Special Features:

Chinese, Japanese, English Canton Palace

Special Features: 738 large-size guest

rooms with high ceilings, incl. 42 suites.

Grand lobby entrance with magnificent atrium.

Outdoor swimming pool heated during winter.

Fully equipped gym, fitness center, sauna, and aerobics room. Fully equipped business center.

Hi-speed broadband Internet access. Safety deposit box. Express laundry service. Limousine service, airport pick-up. State-ofthe-art audiovisual equipment.

English, Japanese, Chinese

General Manager: Mr. Jen-Shing Chen Desk Personnel Speak:

Chinese, English, Japanese

Broadband Internet access in guestrooms, business center, Souvenir Shop, Gazebo, 1950’s dance hall, foot massage

186 Songjiang Rd., Taipei City,104

16 Sianglin Village, Alishan Township, Chiayi County, 605

104台北市松江路18 6號

100 Dun Hua North Road, Taipei Taiwan R.O.C. Tel: 02.2719.7199 Fa x: 02.2545.9288 E-mail: bc@sunworlddynasty.com.tw

Tel: 02.2541.5511 Fax: 02.2531.3831 Reservation Hotline: 02.2541.6888 E-mail: galahtl@ms18.hinet.net

www.sunworlddynasty.com

www.galahotel.com.tw

台北市敦化北路100號

ZENDA SUITES 成大會館

No. of Rooms: 90 Room Rates: Business Single Room Deluxe Single Room

Deluxe Twin Room

Business Suite

Deluxe Suite

Tainan 台南

NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$

3,900 4,100 4,500 5,600 6,800

(All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

Desk Personnel Speak: English, Chinese, Japanese RESTAURANT: Breakfast Lounge

KING’S TOWN HOTEL 京城大飯店

172 ZhongXiao East Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City, 106 106台北市忠孝東路四段172號

Tel: 02.2772.2121 Fax: 02.2721.0302 E-mail: reservation@sanwant.com

花蓮 經 典假日飯 店

No. of Rooms: 150

No. of Rooms: 79

Room Rates:

Room Rates:

Business Single Room NT$

Deluxe Single Room NT$

Business Twin Room NT$

Family Twin Room NT$

2,640 3,080 3,080 4,400

( Prices above including 10% Service Charge )

Desk Personnel Speak: Chinese, English, Japanese

Restaurants:Chinese and Western style

E-mail: service@alishanhouse.com.tw

www.alishanhouse.com.tw

www.sanwant.com

HUALIEN CITY CLASSIC RESORT HOTEL

Kaohsiung 高雄

605嘉義縣阿里山鄉香林村16號 ALISHAN Tel: 05.267.9811 Fax: 05.267.9596 TAIPEI Tel: 02.2563.5259 Fax: 02.2536.5563

Hualien 花 蓮

Standard Room Superior Twin Superior Triple Superior Double Twin Superior Suite Classic Suite

AZURE HOTEL

花蓮藍天麗池飯店

Hualien 花 蓮

No. of Rooms: 153 Room Rates: NT$ 4,000 NT$ 4,200 NT$ 4,800 NT$ 5,600 NT$ 6,000 NT$ 10,000

Desk Personnel Speak: Chinese, English, Japanese

Restaurants:Chinese, Western, and Inter-

Superior Room Classic Room Deluxe Room Theme Room Azure Suite

NT$ 3,800 NT$ 4,600 NT$ 6,800 NT$ 6,800 NT$ 12,000

Desk Personnel Speak: Chinese, English, Japanese

Restaurants:Taiwanese/Hakka cuisine, brunch, Western cuisine

food, delicious buffet, cold dishes, fruit, and salad bar

national cuisine, afternoon tea

Special Features:Business center, non-

unlimited Internet access, broadband Internet access in guestrooms, notebooks available at meeting room, free self-help coffee and tea, free parking, central location (5-min. walk to railway station), pick-up service, projector and screen available at conference room, newspapers and magazines, LCD screen TV-sets

Tel: 06.275.8999 Fax: 06.209.3567

362 Jiuru (Chiu Ju) 2nd Rd., Sanmin District, Kaohsiung City, 80745 8 0 74 5 高 雄 市 三 民 區 九 如 二 路 3 6 2 號 Tel: 07.311.9906 Fax: 07.311.9591 E-mail: ksthotel@ms33.hinet.net

139 Guolian 5th Rd., Hualien City, 970 970 花蓮市國聯五路139號 Tel: 03.835.9966 Fax: 03.835.9977 Reservation: 03.833.6066 E-mail: service@classichotel.com.tw

www.zendasuites.com.tw

590 Zhongzheng Rd., Hualien City, 970 970 花蓮市中正路590號 Tel: 03.833.6686 Fax: 03.3.832.3569

www.kingstown-hotel.com.tw

www.classichotel.com.tw

www.azurehotel.com.tw

Special Features: Located in the center of the city, spacious rooms with wide views, 24H self-service business center, free Internet access, gym, multifunctional meeting and banquet rooms, coin laundry, free indoor parking, Tainan Railway Station and shuttle-bus stop for High Speed Rail close by, beside major university campus with century-old trees and jogging opportunity.

2, Daxue Rd., Tainan City 701 台南市大學路2號

68

Exit 1 of MRT Xingtian Temple Station on the Luzhou Line.

Travel in Taiwan

smoking floors, wireless Internet access, 32” LCD TVs, newspaper, free parking, tourist map, currency exchange

Special Features:1/2F public area with

Special Features:Guestrooms with floor-

to-ceiling windows, views of Pacific Ocean or Central Mountain Range, multifunctional public space, Azure Club, gym, pet hotel, KTV, board game and computer game room, located in Hualien City center, close to snack food and shopping streets

ISSN:18177964

GPN:2009305475

200 NTD

Oyster Shell Island

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Exploring the beach at Dapeng Bay

Shells found at Dapeng Bay

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Walking through the Wild Boar Trench

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Nature trail on Little Liuqiu Island

Little Liuqiu has a unique natural environment

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Flower Vase Rock on Little Liuqiu Island

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Sea creatures found on Little Liuqiu Island

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Sea urchin

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Scenic coast of Little Liuqiu

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Little Liuqiu is a great place for eco tours

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