Travel in Taiwan(NO.110 2022 3/4)

2022

MAR & APR

No.

110

GOOD FOOD

VEGAN ADVENTURES IN TAIPEI

EXPERT TALK

ORGANIC STRAWBERRY FARM IN NEIHU

LOCAL STAY

STAYING ON TAINAN’S YUGUANG ISLAND

Tainan

A Diverse Natural Environment New Aesthetics in Old Architecture Cultural Sightseeing Attractions issuu

Website

TAIWAN EVERYTHING EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT TRAVELING IN TAIWAN!

Find Travel in Taiwan articles published in earlier issues, complemented with colorful images, Google maps, and links to our social media sites, including Youtube, Facebook, and Instagram, and informative sites of other bloggers in Taiwan.

Check out TAIWANEVERYTHING before you plan your next trip to Taiwan! taiwaneverything.cc Website

Youtube

Facebook

Welcome to

Taiwan!

Publisher's Note Dear Traveler, Spring is in the air, and as it does every year at this time, the urge to hit the road and explore new places is in full bloom in the heart of each of us. Travel in Taiwan teams have been busy of late vetting fun and rewarding trip itineraries for you. Assuming your base is the Taipei region, as it is for most international visitors and expatriate residents, we “hit the road” in different ways – heading down-island to a cultured city in the deep southwest for a multi-day trip, and zooming about in the city of Taipei itself on day-outings.

ON THE COVER

The city of Tainan is our destination in our main feature and three other articles.

Geographically, this city founded four centuries ago has a coastal urban core, coastal areas north and south of this and then, moving inland, a sprawling plains area, then foothills, then a swathe of the central mountains. We cover the city using different distinctive themes. In our main article the theme is Tainan’s “wild side,” presenting numerous places of congenial nature encounters, traveling within each geo-region just mentioned save for the central mountains.

In the three ancillary writings our exploration targets are important renovated large-scale heritage sites that are also hubs for cultural-arts activities, smallscale private projects where old works of architecture are now home to culturalcreative leisure businesses, and new-architecture B&Bs of high comfort and service quality on a small tourist-popular silt island immediately south of the urban core’s bustling Anping Harbor.

In this issue’s Good Food journey, we travel Taipei “going meat-free” on vegan culinary adventures. The eco-conscious, plant-based food trend has now arrived on Taiwan’s shores, and we dine at three of the upscale restaurants that have been making the biggest splashes, of such delicious reputation that a solid component of their clientele is meat-eaters.

The talk in Expert Talk is all about Taiwan’s strong strawberry-cultivation sector, heavily oriented toward tourism. We spent half a day in the fetching high hills of Taipei’s Neihu District at one of its many recreational operations offering strawberry picking and other farm fun.

Nature lover, history connoisseur, cultural-arts enthusiast, foodie, and you of sundry other travel passions – what you need, Taiwan’s got.

TAIWAN TOURISM BUREAU MOTC, R.O.C.

2022

MAR & APR

No.

110

GOOD FOOD

VEGAN ADVENTURES IN TAIPEI

EXPERT TALK

ORGANIC STRAWBERRY FARM IN NEIHU

LOCAL STAY

STAYING ON TAINAN’S YUGUANG ISLAND

Tainan

A Diverse Natural Environment New Aesthetics in Old Architecture Cultural Sightseeing Attractions issuu

Ten Drum Culture Village (photo by Ray Chang)

FOLLOW US @tourtaiwan @taiwan @taiwanbesttrip

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台 灣 觀 光 雙 月刊 Travel in Taiwan The Official Bimonthly English Magazine of the Taiwan Tourism Bureau (Advertisement) MARCH/APRIL, 2022 Tourism Bureau, MOTC First published Jan./Feb. 2004 ISSN: 18177964 GPN: 2009305475 Price: NT$200

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C O N T E N T S

2022

MAR/APR

10 01

FEATURE

PUBLISHER'S NOTE

04 TAIWAN TOURISM EVENTS

06 TRAVEL NEWS

– HAPPENING IN TAIWAN NOW

08 CULTURE & ART

– CONCERTS, THEATER, EXHIBITIONS, FESTIVALS, SHOWS

10

26

44

TAINAN / OLD & NEW AESTHETICS

LITTLE THINGS / TEMPLE PRACTICES

OLD TAINAN CITY LEARNS NEW TRICKS

BAI BAI, NOT BYE BYE

Young Entrepreneurs Bringing New Aesthetics to Old Architecture

Praying in Local Temples

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46

TAINAN / NATURAL ENVIRONMENT

LOCAL STAY / TAINAN CITY

EXPERT TALK / STRAWBERRY FARM

WALKS ON TAINAN’S NATURAL SIDE

ISLAND GETAWAY IN THE BIG CITY

FILL YOUR PUNNETS!

Nature Encounters by the Sea, on the Flatlands, in the Foothills, in the Urban Core

Overnighting on Tainan’s Yuguang Island

Strawberry Picking and Other Farm Fun in Taipei’s Neihu District

22

38

TAINAN / CULTURE & HISTORY

GOOD FOOD / VEGETARIAN CUISINE VEGAN ADVENTURES

A CULTURAL TREASURE-HOUSE

Going Meat-Free in Taipei

Old Culture Meets New Culture Sightseeing Attractions in Tainan

March-May

TAIWAN TOURISM EVENTS

SPRINGTIME!!

Exciting Events and Happenings Because of the ongoing pandemic, festivals and events might be cancelled or postponed; please check official websites for confirmation.

1 PENGHU COUNTY APR. 25 ~ JUNE 30

PENGHU INTERNATIONAL FIREWORKS FESTIVAL 澎湖國際海上花火節

Each year in spring and early summer, the Penghu International Fireworks Festival gives travelers an additional incentive to visit the beautiful Penghu archipelago before the hot summer months begin. The venue is the harbor of Magong, Penghu’s only city.

The reflections of the colorful fireworks on the waters of the harbor and the picturesque pedestrian Xiying Rainbow Bridge, plus live musical performances, make this evening extravaganza a highly memorable and romantic event. Shows take place Mondays and Thursdays. In addition, there will be one-off shows on Qimei Island (May 28), Wang’an Island (June 11), and Jibei Island (June 25). www.penghu-nsa.gov.tw www.facebook.com/phfireworks

4 PINGTUNG COUNTY

APR. 8 ~ 17

3 TAIPEI CITY

MAR. ~ JUNE

KEELUNG CIAO

CALLA LILY AND HYDRANGEA FESTIVAL

Dark, wet, industrial…this was the image of Keelung City in the past. In recent times this harbor city to the northeast of Taipei City has been changing. In the same vein as its larger counterpart in the south, Kaohsiung, the city is slowly reimagining itself as a center of culture, modernity, and refinement. Public art is a unique way to beautify a cityscape and open visitors’ eyes to lesser-known corners of an urban environment. Keelung Ciao, first held in 2015, has gradually been introducing art into Keelung, and by doing so introducing Keelung to visiting art lovers.

The creations by local and foreign artists, sometimes placed in unusual spaces like on board a ship or inside an old shipyard, encourage you to explore and discover this history-rich city and its harbor area.

The residents of Taipei are blessed for having a magnificent national park right at their doorstep. In less than an hour you can get from the city center to the breezy mountains and deep forests of Yangmingshan by public transport and find yourself embraced by pristine nature. Part of the park is an agricultural area named Zhuzihu, sitting in the shadows of towering Mt. Datun.

During spring and early summer two types of flowers, in succession, draw droves of visitors up to the fields of the area. First to bloom is the pure-white calla lily, and later comes the hydrangea, sporting shades of purple, blue, and pink. Part of the Zhuzihu experience is picking calla lilies yourself and sitting down in one of the restaurants to enjoy healthful meals made with local produce.

基隆潮藝術

www.keelungciao.org/en

5 AROUND TAIWAN APR. ~ MAY

竹子湖海芋季及繡球花季

www.ymsnp.gov.tw

6 YILAN COUNTY MAR. 26 ~ MAY 8

DAPENG BAY MARINE FESTIVAL

HAKKA TUNG BLOSSOM FESTIVAL

YILAN GREEN EXPO

Dapeng Bay is a large lagoon in southwest Taiwan, just to the southeast of the harbor town of Donggang. Sheltered from the waters of the Taiwan Strait by a narrow strip of land, the lagoon is protected from the sea, but still windy enough to be excellent for watersports like sailing and windsurfing. This festival highlights all the many fun things you can do on and around the bay. There are, for example, sailboat regattas, yachting, SUP fun, and mangrove-forest kayaking. Cultural events take place around Binwan Wharf on the south bank of the lagoon.

The Hakka people in Taiwan, a Han Chinese minority group that immigrated to the island starting in the mid-17th century and often settled in hilly regions, especially those of northwest Taiwan, planted a large number of tung trees for commercial purposes during the Japanese colonial era (1895~1945). Today, the trees grow in the wild and, to the delight of hikers, bloom profusively in April and May, their snow-white blossoms covering tree branches and carpeting hiking trails. During the tung blossom season, numerous cultural events are held in celebration by Hakka communities in locations close to the forests.

Yilan County, situated in the northeast corner of Taiwan, is known for its agriculture – mostly on the triangular-shaped Lanyang Plain – and its forestcovered mountain areas, encompassing most of its western and southern parts. It’s the perfect location for an exposition that highlights green tourism and protection of the natural environment. This expo is both an educational and fun affair, ideal for families with children, who will revel in adventurous activities such as ziplining, encounters with farm animals, and nature-themed DIY classes and games.

www.dbnsa.gov.tw

www.hakka.gov.tw

大鵬灣帆船生活節

4

2 KEELUNG CITY APR. 15 ~ MAY 2

Photo courtesy of Penghu County Govt.

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客家桐花祭

宜蘭綠色博覽會

travel.yilan.tw

1

2

Photo courtesy of Art Happening

3

Photo courtesy of Dapeng Bay NSA Admin.

5

4

6 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN

Taiwan Tourism Events Calendar Website

MAR/APR 2022

5

TRAVEL NEWS

HAPPENING in TAIWAN Now Will the pandemic finally abate and life and travel worldwide return to some normalcy in 2022? In the hope that visiting Taiwan and exploring this beautiful island will be possible without Covid-related restrictions sooner rather than later, here are some recent developments in the local tourism world.

DON’T MISS IN APRIL~MAY

Mazu Pilgrimage – this annual activity is the biggest religious happening on the island and the perfect opportunity to witness traditional religious culture and practices in Taiwan.

bit.ly/3zOBuIJ (Taiwan Gods)

Photo courtesy of Matsu NSA Admin.

Blue tears in Matsu – a marine life form named noctiluca scintillans makes the waters around the islands of Matsu glow with a blue sheen starting in May, a natural phenomenon not to be missed!

www.matsu-nsa.gov.tw

Fine Cuisine

Michelin Guide 2022 Michelin made quite a stir in local culinary circles with the publication of its first guide featuring fine-dining places in Taiwan, the Michelin Guide Taipei (2018). Each year since, the new edition has been awaited with great anticipation, especially after the publisher announced the inclusion of night-market vendors (2019) and restaurants in Taichung (2020 & 2021). The range of the 2022 guide will be extended even further, to include restaurants in the southern cities of Tainan and Kaohsiung.

guide.michelin.com

City Park

Photo courtesy of PARK2

PARK2 Caowu Square in Taichung

Kaohsiung Music Center

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Located in the hippest and most modern part of Taichung City, the recently opened PARK2 Caowu Square is an upgraded version of the original Caowu Square. Facing the southeastern corner of Taichung Civic Square on one side and, on another, the 47-story Shr-Hwa International Tower, the park is a small landscaped city oasis designed with palm trees, cacti, ferns, and large stones. There are artisan-snack stalls on the ground level and upscale restaurants on the B1 level. facebook.com/cmppark2

Image Museum of Hsinchu City Just about 100m northwest of one of Hsinchu City’s best-known landmarks, Yingxi Gate, is the Image Museum of Hsinchu City. Its building, dating from 1933, housed Taiwan’s first European-style cinema (“Yurakukan”) with cooling facilities. After WWII, the movie theater’s operation continued until 1991 with a capacity of up to 700. In 1999, the building underwent a major restoration and was reopened as the Image Museum of Hsinchu City, the front building becoming a multifunctional theater. The back building was used for static exhibitions. The latest development has been the invitation of the Grand View Culture & Art Foundation to manage the museum and modernize its facilities, including the small-scale theater, a new movie-theme bookstore, a permanent exhibition on the museum’s history, and the Or Lightbox bistro on the second floor. www.facebook.com/OrLightbox Photo courtesy of Hsinchu City Govt.

Most Beautiful Guestrooms

Transportation News

Here are the five most beautiful guestrooms in Taiwan according to a survey conducted by ezTravel (www.eztravel.com.tw/events/hotel-vote2021)

1. Hotel Day + Sun Moon Lake | Deluxe Family Room, with great views of Sun Moon Lake; www.hotelday.com.tw

2. Fullon Hotel Tamsui Fisherman’s Wharf | Sea View Room,

with great views of the Tamsui River mouth; www.fullon-hotels.com.tw/fw/tw

3. Monster Village Hotel in Nantou | Ying Feng Villa,

wooden cabin in the forest with a tall slanted roof; www.mingshan.com.tw

4. Evergreen Resort Hotel Jiaoxi | Fusion Suite,

room in both Western and Japanese style with hot-spring bath and excellent views of mountain and sea; jiaosi.evergreen-hotels.com

5. Gaeavilla | Lavender Executive Room,

very elegant room with views of the Hualien countryside; www.gaeavilla.com

Photo courtesy of eztravel

New Taiwan-Matsu Ferry Getting from the harbor of Keelung City in northern Taiwan to the islands of Matsu, an archipelago close to mainland China, by ferry means a 10-hour overnight journey on one of two aging vessels, the Taima and Taima Star. Starting in April there will be a more modern and much faster service alternative from the Port of Taipei, a high-speed ferry operated by North & South Shipping. The journey will take just three hours, with the ferries, operating 3 or 4 times a week, carrying up to 298 passengers.

Tickets will be priced NT$1,700 one way.

bit.ly/3qxDfH8 (eztravel; Chinese)

1 Photo courtesy of Hotel Day

3 Photo courtesy of Monster Village

Rankings

EVA Air In a 2021 airline index compiled by luggage storage company Bounce, the Taiwan international airline EVA Air placed a respectable sixth out of 71 international airlines.

usebounce.com/blog/airline-index

Taipei City Taiwan’s capital was recently listed as one of the Top 10 Cities to visit in 2022 by travel guide book publisher Lonely Planet. “Taiwan’s capital is an urban feast that will leave you satisfied.”

www.lonelyplanet.com/articles/best-in-travel-2022

Photo courtesy of Sanjin Intl. Mark. Co.

Taipei Restaurant Bus Fancy a high-quality afternoon tea or dinner on board a doubledecker bus that slowly makes its way through downtown Taipei? Well then, perhaps the Taipei Restaurant Bus is your wish-come-true. Starting and ending its 90min (afternoon tea)/120min (dinner) journey at Taipei City Hall, the bus makes a loop through Taipei’s modern east district, passing such landmarks as Taipei 101 and Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall.

The exquisite set meals are priced NT$1,000 (afternoon) and NT$1,800 dinner). taipeirestaurantbus.com

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CULTURE & ART

Culture Concerts, Theater, Exhibitions, Festivals, Shows

Because of the ongoing pandemic, festivals and events might be cancelled or postponed; please check official websites for confirmation.

Theater

《金鎖記 & 閻羅夢－天地一秀才》國光劇團

April 1~3, 4~10 Taiwan Traditional Theatre Center ( Taipei City )

CHOICE

www.ntsec.gov.tw

Exhibition Calculating x Destiny: Divination in Europe and Taiwan 算 × 命：歐洲與臺灣的占卜特展

What are the dif ferences between fortune-telling in the West and the East?

This exhibition takes visitors on a fortunetelling journey, revealing its participants and unveiling the cosmology of prophecy.

You will learn about practices like rice divination rituals, physiognomy, and feng shui, fortune-telling methods that are common in Taiwan and rely more o n o b s e r va t i o n d i v i n a t i o n . I n o r d e r to introduce visitors to the histor y of fortune-telling in Europe, the museum has borrowed 47 precious artifacts from the Germanisches Nationalmuseum in Nuremberg, Germany, including Albrecht Dürer’s print Nemesis (the Greek goddess of divine retribution), created in 1501~02; the Bamberg Bible, possibly printed by Johannes Gutenberg in the 15th century; and an astrolabe from the 16th century.

www.nmth.gov.tw

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Until May 29 National Museum of Taiwan History ( Tainan City )

國立臺灣歷史博物館

展示教育大樓4樓 第2特展室 指導單位

歐洲與臺灣的 占卜特展

Editor's

Pingu was a highly popular stop-motion children’s series created for Swiss television by late German filmmaker Otmar Gutmann and Erika Brueggemann, which ran 1990~2000. The program was set in Antarctica and focused on penguin families living and working in igloos. All dialogue was in “penguin language,” consisting of babbling and muttering. This exhibition takes you behind the scenes of the production, showing related materials including clay models, storyboards, film rolls, and much more.

Calculating Destiny

tttc.ncfta.gov.tw

Pingu 企鵝家族的誕生：40 週年巡迴特展

Divination in Europe and Taiwan

The self-stated goal of the GuoGuang Opera Company, founded in 1995, is “to preserve the traditions of Beijing [Peking] opera, perpetuate cultural memory, and, at the same time, to encourage imaginative exploration and popularize artistic and cultural innovation.” As part of this year’s Taiwan Traditional Theatre Festival, the company will stage two plays. Journey Through Hell portrays the Han dynasty scholar Sima Mao, who fights for justice in real life and then becomes a half-day ruler of Hell, rewriting the life-and-death records of famous figures such as Xiang Yu (232~202BC). The Golden Cangue is a Peking Opera adaptation of Eileen Chang’s 1943 literary classic of the same name. It’s the story about a poor girl who marries a handicapped man for money and becomes trapped b y t h e “c a n g u e ” (a large wooden collar worn by petty criminals as a punishment in China in the past) of love and money.

Pingu Exhibition

Until May 1 National Taiwan Science Education Center ( Taipei City )

Vorhersagen Schicksal

GuoGuang Opera Company: The Golden Cangue & Journey Through Hell

Exhibition

Wahrsagen in Europa und Taiwan

2022 Taiwan Traditional Theatre Festival 2022 臺灣戲曲藝術節

主辦單位

12.22

20 21

合辦單位

20 22

05.29

Musical Notre Dame de Paris 鐘樓怪人

April 27~May 1 National Kaohsiung Center for the Arts (Kaohsiung City) The musical Notre Dame de Paris is an adaptation of the 1829 masterpiece by the famous French writer Victor Hugo (the novel known as The Hunchback of Notre-Dame in English), telling a timeless love story set in the 15th century featuring Quasimodo, the deformed bell ringer of Notre Dame Cathedral, and his unrequited love for the beautiful dancer La Esmeralda. The musical has been a huge success in more than 23 countries over the past 20 years.

The classic songs have become part of the collective memory of the public, and the values of “tolerance and unity” emphasized in the original novel are still being fermented in today’s society.

www.npac-weiwuying.org

Theater Music The World of Hans Zimmer – A Symphonic Celebration 漢斯季默：好萊塢王者之音

April 21~24 Taipei Music Center (Taipei City) Hans Zimmer is an award-winning (four Grammy Awards) German film score composer and record producer who has composed music for over 150 films, including such blockbusters as The Lion King, Gladiator, and the Pirates of the Caribbean series. This concert tour is a celebration of his film music and work in general. “The rock star of film score composers” is both the curator and musical director of the show, and although he is not performing himself, he has invited several renowned soloists from his talent factory and circle of friends to take part in the tour, including Lisa Gerrard (co-composer of the music score for Gladiator), Pedro Eustache (flautist for the Pirates of the Caribbean and Kung Fu Panda scores), as well as violinist Rusanda Panfili and percussionists Lucy Landymore and Aleksandra Šuklar.

tmc.taipei

2022 NTT Taiwan International Festival of Arts 歌劇院 2022 台灣國際藝術節

April 2~May 29 National Taichung Theater ( Taichung City )

Editor's

CHOICE

This year, the National Taichung Theater Taiwan International Festival of Arts (NTT-TIFA) presents performances that combine aesthetics with science.

There are shows integrating Augmented Reality (AR) and Virtual Reality (VR) (Living Room and FreeSteps AR Yours 2.0), as well as 4D Box mapping technology (Chronicle of Light Year: Taipei-Copenhagen). “Image” is the selected theme for the NTT Emerging Artists Project in 2022, and in See, a production by Pure White Dance Lab, the relationship between space and visual images is explored. Discoveries in the sonic realm are presented in the immersive sound lab Dear John, in Qualia by NTT Artists in Residence Cheng I-lly, and in Send in a Cloud by Cheng Tsung-lung. A highly anticipated show of the festival is the theatre screening and installation production Acqua Alta by French duo Adrien M and Claire B, telling a fantastical story about a woman, a man, and a house.

www.npac-ntt.org/tifa

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TAINAN

Natural Environment

Walks on Tainan’s

NATURAL SIDE Nature Encounters by the Sea, on the Flatlands, in the Foothills, in the Urban Core

Old Tainan County, which surrounded coastal Tainan City on three sides, was merged with the city in 2010, bringing a great swathe of watery coastal lands, farmed flatlands, foothills, and mountains within the city’s borders. In this article we rollick about the coastal, flatlands, foothills, and urban-core regions for quick-dips at some of the best tourist-friendly natural treasures.

TE X T R I C K C H A R E T T E 10

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P H OTOS R AY C H A N G, V I SI O N

Pheasant-tailed Jacana Eco-Educational Nature Park

T

ainan City’s tourism brand was long centered on its almost bottomless well of historical sites, manifestations of age-old Taiwan cultural practices, national-treasure kitchen of nightmarket and street-stall delicacies and, emerging in the second half of last century, cafés.

In this Travel in Taiwan edition we’re concentrating on the city’s new faces while of course paying our due respects to its touristesteemed oldies. In secondary articles accompanying this main feature we acquaint you with renovated large-scale historical sites that now double-serve as heritage learning centers and art hubs, small private projects where entrepreneurs have brought new missions and aesthetics to old architecture, and upscale new-built B&Bs on a longpopular saltwater island getaway.

T h is a r t icle’s u nder t a k i ng is to del iver you to a su ite of destinations where you’ll need your camera always at the ready to capture Tainan’s wild side. Among other wildlife locals, we now present to you the Black-faced Spoonbill, Pheasant-tailed Jacana, Mandarin Duck, mudskipper, and fiddler crab. Gidday!

TAINAN

Natural Environment

Guantian District The pretty and endangered Pheasanttailed Jacana inhabits wetlands where f loating plants grow. The Pheasanttailed Jacana Eco-Educational Nature Park is in a large area of square lowearthen-dike water caltrop fields and rice paddies. Most of Taiwan’s water caltrops (water chestnuts) are grown in Guantian District, which is also home to t he m ajor it y of Ta iwa n’s jacanas. The bird readily adapts to such manmade environments when wetlands are insufficient.

T he food-fes t prov ided by t h i s habitat long brought in the Jacanas (and other waterbirds) in great number, but the use of toxins in farming along with other negative impacts such as humancreated noise had a deleterious effect.

Thus the creation of the conservation zone in 2000, primarily constituted of low-dike plots that are allowed to return to a tree-surrounded wetland state. The Wild Bird Society of Tainan took over management in 2011. Area farmers have also been cooperative, those closest either going organic or minimizing use of toxins. The park’s jacana numbers have been rising, from a low of just 9 counted in 2000 to 168 in 2020, with highs of 379 and 360 in 2013 and 2014, respectively.

Individual visitors are welcome. For groups of 5-20 a reservation is required and g uided tours (Chinese) can be arranged. These begin at a wood-built station with abundant infor mation posted on the walls, including annual

Pheasant-tailed Jacana Eco-Educational Nature Park

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bird, nest, and egg numbers. From here you head through the wetlands, viewing the Jacanas and (sometimes) thousands of other comely water fowl such as the Eurasian Teal and Great White Heron from wood-built birdwatching pavilions, your guide bringing powerful binoculars for close-up visual pleasures.

The Chuan Wenshan Forest Ecological Conservation Farm covers a hill on what can be characterized as a foothills peninsula that sticks far out into the farm-plot f latlands like a peninsula jutting out into the sea. Tongue-incheek dubbed “Little Yangmingshan” – Yangmingshan is the verdant mountain massif on Taipei’s north side, topped by iconic Yangmingshan National Park –

WALKS IN GUANTIAN Go waterbird watching, walk through a mahogany forest, and take pictures of cute deer sculptures

this is private land, a one-time mango farm transformed by the owner into an enchanted little forest of soaring straighttrunk mahogany with two massive banyans in the center on high points that is interlaced with hard-surface pathways and narrow old roads. The century-old banyans are so large and heavy they must be supported by frames holding up branches.

The forest enclave, used by many locals for their daily constitutionals, is the result of the farmer’s participation in a government afforestation grant program. The eco-health returned to this land is evidenced in the constant birdsong and, even more noticeable, the comings and goings of ever-at-work squirrels overhead. The farmer-folk locals say that squirrels had long been almost absent from their lives until such initiatives as this and the nearby jacana park were undertaken.

If the foothills landform just mentioned can be likened to a peninsula protruding far out into a flatlands sea, the broad, low mounds dotting the plains just off this peninsula can

Chuan Wenshan farm

Pheasant-tailed jacanas

be likened to islands floating amidst this sea. The expansive Guantian Visitor Center stands on one of these. Its bold architectural design and the inviting – and still expanding – landscaped meadow-centered grounds behind it have made the center a tourist draw in itself. This is the main visitor facility for the Siraya National Scenic Area, named for the area’s Siraya indigenous people. Inside are exhibits on area-culture topics and a gift shop selling regional specialty products, especially agri-products.

T he a r c h ite c t u r e a nd l a nd s c ap i n g a r e s te e p e d i n sy mbol i sm. For exa mple, t he heig ht of t he bu i ld i ng s represents the foothills, the flattish roof the undulating plains.

The façade’s prominent yellow represents the mango grown

by Han Chinese farmers and the corn so important to the Siraya. The oversized deer sculptures on the meadow evoke the teeming herds that once roamed the western plains, so intrinsic to indigenous life.

PHEASANT-TAILED JACANA ECO-EDUCATIONAL NATURE PARK ( 水雉生態教育園區 ) (06) 579-2153 On Yulong Road in Guantian District, 1.8km west of the Prov. Hwy 1 intersection ( 官田區裕隆路 ; 離省道 1 號十字路口 1.8 公里 ) jacanatw.org (Chinese) GUANTIAN VISITOR CENTER ( 官田遊客中心 ) (06) 690-0399 No. 99, Futian Rd., Guantian Borough, Guantian District. Tainan City ( 台南市官田區官田里福田路 99 號 ) www.siraya-nsa.gov.tw

Meadow at Guantian Visitor Center

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Natural Environment BODIES OF WATER Greater Tainan being a major agricultural region in Taiwan, there are numerous reservoirs and irrigation ponds to explore

A total of 30 waterways flow into the Wushantou Reservoir, the raison d’etre of the Wushantou Reservoir Scenic Area.

Over 100 islands sprout from the reservoir’s waters, all proud free-standing hills before its creation drowned their world. The intricate pattern of the islands has given rise to another name for the water body, Coral Reef Lake.

The water flowing from the 6,000ha reservoir, at the powerdam facility, forms a lovely high waterfall. Other lake-area land attractions are peaceful Zhongzheng Park, atop a hill, temple facilities, a barbecue area, camping area, lakeside trail, water park, and small aviary/garden. You can also head out on the waters for guided tours (Chinese) on large solar-powered bargelike craft that take you to places impossible to view otherwise, such as small channels between islands and hidden-away bays.

History buffs will much enjoy the Yoichi Hatta Memorial Park, located close to the dam. A Japanese civil engineer, Hatta designed/built the dam/reservoir and Jianan Plain irrigation system from 1920 through 1930. In the park is his residence, other restored wooden Japanese buildings, and a museum. His gravesite overlooks the reservoir; Hatta was killed at sea in 1942 in an Allied attack, his body later found and brought here per his family’s request.

Statue of Yoichi Hatta

Wushantou Reservoir Scenic Area (photo courtesy of Siraya NSA Admin.)

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Natural Environment

Hulupi Nature Park

The heart of Hulupi Nature Park is a large irrigation reservoir called Hulupi, which sits amidst a large swathe of f lat land neatly cut into a grid-legion of small farm plots. The reservoir was excavated in the 1770s. In more recent times a road was built through its center, in the eyes of locals giving the body of water the look – from a bird’s-eye view – of a giant gourd tied with a ribbon. Chucking out the original name, it was rechristened Hulupi, meaning “gourd wall/boundary.”

The mainland section of the nature park strip follows the contours of the reservoir. A pleasant treeshaded winding pathway adjoins the shoreline, and leaps the reservoir via a photogenic bright-orange pedestrian-only suspension bridge, landing on a peninsula that juts far out into the reservoir. Waterfilled rice and water caltrop farm plots are all around the nature park, attracting both pheasant-tailed jacana and egrets in significant number. Around the shoreline of the reservoir are found silent fishermen and singing frogs in large number, attesting to the health of this environment, the latter hidden away in the many patches of rushes. The park has a visitor center where refreshments are sold, notably water caltrop ice cream.

Visitor Center

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Natural Environment

Hutoupi Scenic Area

Xinhua District The Hutoupi Scenic Area, with the large Hutoupi irrigation reservoir its centerpiece, is located where the foothills that rise to the central mountains meet the western plains. This tranquil lake-like reservoir is surrounded by low hills on three sides, thick with forest cover, with numerous bay indentations that foster a sense of seclusion even on touristbusy weekends and holidays. There is dense avian citizenry, with the range of colorful ducks such as the Mandarin Duck especially attention-snatching.

This was Taiwan’s first reservoir, created in 1846 by building a thick and tall earthen embankment across the hillopening on the west side. Its poetic beauty and abundance of tourist facilities has brought the nickname “Little Sun Moon Lake,” after the famous and much larger lake in central

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Taiwan. There is a paved road that wends its way around the lake, used both for walks and bike-riding. Bike-rental outlets are located right outside the main entrance. Among the various other leisure facilities are pedal boat and canoe rentals, a quality café, tree-shaded barbecue area with picnic tables, and camping area.

Hutoupi is known for its aesthetically elegant sunrises and sunsets, with photos dramatically enhanced by their reflections on the sometimes still, glass-like surface. Perhaps the premier spot for photo-takers is the small island with large viewing pavilion right at the center, providing full unobstructed views east and west down the lake. This is reached via a lengthy pedestrian-only suspension bridge that is an artwork in itself, built in 1905.

TAINAN

WHERE PLAIN MEETS MOUNTAINS Hutoupi is a popular reservoir in Xinhua, Dakeng an eco-friendly farm deeper in the hills

Natural Environment

Dakeng Leisure Farm is deeper and higher in the foothills.

Though the signature crop in this region is the pineapple, this 10ha enterprise sports a man-made forest of bamboo and coconut and banana trees. Almost hidden away inside are the farm’s numerous wooden buildings, large and small. Dakeng offers an organic restaurant, eco-tours, experience workshops on such topics as bamboo weaving and farm-produce cooking, and activities targeting youngsters such as animal feeding and chicken egg collecting.

The eco-tour, which lasts an hour or so, takes visitors higher into the surrounding hills, along a trail moderately steep that passes through tall bamboo. Along the way hikers come across a diverse array of facilities. There are chicken coops and pigpens, and a lush field where many of the ingredients used in the farm’s restaurant are grown, among them rosemary, marigold, roselle, citrus mint, and watercress. There’s also an obstacle course (rope tunnels, hoops of different sizes, wood-block steps, etc.) that’s a hit with both little kids and adult kids and, tucked away a short ways inside the surrounding forest cover, a rope-built suspension bridge and a zipline promising a heartrate-upping experience. The high point of the hike, literally and figuratively, is an observation deck with sweeping views out over the undulating hills.

Among the facilities in the farm’s central area is a compact outdoor spa, wading pool, and swimming pool with 6m-tall water slide, all fed with water from a nearby spring. Accommodations are also available: wood cabins, European-style cottages, and Japanese-style suites.

DAKENG LEISURE FARM ( 大坑休閒農場 ) (06) 594-1555 No. 82, Dakeng Borough, Xinhua District, Tainan City ( 台南市新化區大坑里 82 號 ) www.idakeng.com.tw Dakeng Leisure Farm TR AVEL IN TAIWAN

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Natural Environment

Annan District Taijiang National Park (www.tjnp.gov.tw) takes up the strip of coastal land and sea out to 20m offshore immediately north of Tainan’s urban area, stretching from the estuary of the Yanshui River to that of the Zengwen River. This is a watery world of estuaries, sandbars, tidal f lats, old irrigation canals and small-craft shipping channels, mangrove swamps, wetlands, and aquaculture farms – much of these vestiges of what once was called the Inner Sea. When Han Chinese began settling in Taiwan in the early 1600s this area was mostly open water. The outer edge of the Inner Sea was formed by a series of long and thin silt-created islands stretching north-south. Today, the urban core’s Anping Fort (site of Dutch-built Fort Zeelandia) was on this line; Chikan Tower (site of Dutchbuilt Fort Provintia) was just off the mainland shore of the Inner Sea. In the centuries since, silting has largely filled in the sea, and pushed the coastline far west of Anping Fort.

Four of the national park’s most popular attractions are the Sicao Green Tunnel raft tour, Sicao Lake boat tour, Qigu Lagoon, and Blackfaced Spoonbill Reserve.

The long and narrow Sicao Green Tunnel is a long-disused section of Taiwan’s first canal, built in the 1870s, used to transport sugar and salt from local farms. Guided tours (fee; in Chinese) lasting about 30 minutes are given using large motorized

rafts similar to those used by local oyster farmers.

The waterway is densely lined both sides with native mangrove trees over half-a-century old.

Though a serene place, it is busy with wildlife, especially with herons and egrets looking for a meal and with fiddler crabs and mudskippers going about their chores on the slimy fine-mud banks.

Locals refer to the estuary area of the Yanshui River, a point of convergence for the river and a number of old canals, as Sicao Lake. The launchpoint for guided tours on large boats (fee; in Chinese), about an hour in length, is just steps away from that for the raft tours. The boats take you out on the open water and along narrow river channels framed by mangrove trees, and you can watch local raft fishermen, oyster farmers, and myriad color-magnetic waterfowl plying their trades.

No r t h o f t h i s a r e a i s t h e B l a c k- f a c e d Spoonbill Reserve, a key site in the ongoing international campaign to help the odd-gorgeous, critically endangered Black-faced Spoonbill, a waterbird that ranges from North Korea to Southeast Asia. The reserve is a lagoon and canal area. The small Black-faced Spoonbill Ecology Exhibition Hall, which juts out over the water, has useful displays with abundant English.

Black-faced Spoonbill (photo courtesy of Tainan City Government)

COASTAL LAND Annan District is a rich watery world with estuaries, canals, wetlands, and more

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Natural Environment

T he f r iend ly volunteers man n i ng t he reserve’s lookout platforms, which are installed with powerful binoculars, are also deep sources of information (Chinese).

Other birds you may encounter are the Eurasian Spoonbill, Sacred Ibis, Grey Heron, and Great Egret.

Just north of the reserve is the sea-like Qigu Lagoon, festooned with a veritable Roman legion of aligned oyster racks.

Perhaps the best sunsets taken in along the entire Tainan coast are experienced at the lagoon’s boardwalk-style Seaview Pavilion.

GREEN TUNNEL A picture-perfect channel that can be explored on guided bamboo raft cruises

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Barclay Memorial Park

In the Urban Area The capacious, rambling Barclay Memorial Park is located in the Tainan urban area’s East District, across from the architecturally arresting Tainan Cultural Center. Its name honors Rev. Dr. Thomas Barclay, a missionary from Scotland who lived in Taiwan from 1875 until his passing in 1935. His work in his southern Taiwan ministry has been compared to that of the bet ter-k nown George Leslie Mackay in northern Taiwan. Among his many contributions to Taiwan society was the founding of the Tainan Theological College and Seminary (main building constructed 1903).

T he vivaciously landscaped park, invar iably f lowing wit h exercisers, picknickers, and photo enthusiasts, is lush green in spring/ summer and dappled with the reds and yellows of fallen bald-cypress leaves in autumn/winter. In one area is a small protected dense forest accessed via winding and zigzagging foot-high boardwalks.

This park has been named one of Taiwan’s 10 best urban-area parks in online voting, been bestowed a Taiwan Landscape Award, and been a Merit Award (Public Construction Category) winner in the prestigious FIABCI Prix d'Excellence Awards, dubbed the “Oscars of Real Estate.”

“Quirky” falls leagues short in describing the Qianqi (“Thousand Fields”) Seed Museum (entry fee), northwest of the National Cheng Kung University campus. It’s almost invisible from the street, hidden Barclay Memorial Park 20

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Natural Environment

amidst a plot of land evidently invaded by jungle.

Step inside through the narrow gate and you enter a chimerical realm that seems sprung from a Harry Potter story, a hideaway-cottage setting deep in an English forest where sorcerers might be found crafting peculiar mash-ups. Everywhere you look, inside the ramshack le cottage-st yle str uct ures and courtyard, you see seeds – in drawers and on shelves, on benches and tables, hanging from wooden beams. Most everything manmade that you see has been created with recycled materials rescued from abandoned residences around Tainan.

Over a span of 40 years this private museum’s appropriately quirky team, a husband/wife duo and their son, have collected over 500 seed types from around Taiwan. About 100 types have been planted on-site. The photo-demanding mise-enscenes you’ll encounter are nigh boundless, but what all visitors find unforgettable are the stunning and almost iridescent large metallic-blue seeds of the travelers palm on display, in the gift shop.

Your entr y fee brings you a half-hour tour with seed diversity and reproduction as theme.

For an English-language tour, call at least 10 days in advance. Plant-theme treasurables for sale, all made on-site, include hydrosols, soaps, mosquitorepellent incense, jewelry and other decorative ornaments, and teas.

Qianqi Seed Museum QIANQI SEED MUSEUM ( 千畦種籽舘 ) (06) 236-0035 No. 29-1, Lane 451, Dongfeng Rd., North District, Tainan City ( 台南市北區東豐路 451 巷 29-1 號 ) Prior phone reservation required www.facebook.com/QianQiZhongZiGuan ENGLISH AND CHINESE Anping Fort 安平古堡 Barclay Memorial Park 巴克禮紀念公園 Black-faced Spoonbill Reserve 黑面琵鷺保護區 Black-faced Spoonbill Ecology Exhibition Hall 黑面琵鷺生態展示館 Chikan Tower 赤崁樓 Chuan Wenshan Forest Ecological Conservation Farm 川文山森林生態保育農場 Coral Reef Lake 珊瑚潭 Guantian Visitor Center 官田遊客中心 Hulupi Nature Park 葫蘆埤自然公園 Hutoupi Scenic Area 虎頭埤風景區 Inner Sea 內海 Jianan Plain 嘉南平原 "Little Sun Moon Lake" 小日月潭 "Little Yangmingshan" 小陽明山 Qigu Lagoon 七股潟湖 Seaview Pavilion 觀海樓 Sicao Green Tunnel 四草綠色隧道 Sicao Lake 四草湖 Taijiang National Park 台江國家公園 Tainan Cultural Center 台南文化中心 Tainan Theological College and Seminary 台南神學院 Taiwan Landscape Award 台灣景觀大獎 Wushantou Reservoir Scenic Area 烏山頭水庫風景區 Yoichi Hatta Memorial Park 八田與一紀念園區

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o r t r av e l e r s w i t h a t h i r s t f o r historical sites, and especially those keen on Taiwan history, the city of Tainan is nirvana. It’s also ground zero for Taiwan history, the first place of Han Chinese settlement and the island’s capital for over 200 years. Here we escort you on a special journey to large-scale heritage sites that have been revivif ied, under government oversight, to serve both as showcases of the island’s historical story and creative nodes promoting the cultural arts. We spend time at two sugar refinery complexes and a waterworks complex, and amongst the vestiges of an inland port.

Tainan City, born four centuries ago, is Taiwan’s most illustrious repository of important heritage sites. Here is a quartet of attractions that have been born – perhaps “reborn” is the better word – within the past two decades, historical sites that have been revivified and now serve a dual role as heritage learning centers and hubs for artistic endeavor.

TE X T R I C K C H A R E T T E P H OTOS R AY C H A N G, V I SI O N

Harry Potter-style book store

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Culture & History

Ten Drum Culture Village The Taiwan landscape is dotted with old, historically invaluable sugar-refinery complexes, built by the Japanese when they ruled as Taiwan’s colonial overlords 1895~1945, that after being abandoned for a time have been rescued and resuscitated – renovated and put to use as time machines for history aficionados while also serving as bases for artists, cultural-arts troupes, and cultural-creative enterprises.

What is today named the Ten Drum Culture Village, built as the Rende Sugar Factory, is the largest, most intact, and both the most comprehensively and most innovatively renovated and re-missioned. It’s located in the south of Tainan’s urban center.

The celebrated Ten Drum Art Percussion Group is a performance and educational troupe that combines traditional drumming with modern theatrical elements.

It has become an int r insic par t of Taiwan’s moder n urban culture, and has performed around the globe. The troupe has three aims in managing the old 5ha Rende refinery complex: presentation of the troupe and its music, preservation of the history of Taiwan's sugar industry, and creation of an ecological attraction. The grounds are gracefully landscaped, bright with f loral colors and busy with beauteous butterflies. The village is meant as a full-day attraction for entire families, with something for everyone, as we’ll see. Your ticket brings you free access to everything inside, save for your food, beverages, and retail purchases.

Old factory machinery

Old banyan tree

Entrance to the Sugar Magic bar

The menu of attractions is far too long to fully address here, so a highlights menu instead:

VIBRATING WITH HISTORY While walking through the old sugar factory complex you might hear the pulsating sound of large drums during live performances of the Ten Drum percussion group

One large, airy old plant contains the percussion troupe’s stateof-the-art performance theater. Shows are presented daily.

A second large plant is divided into four floors. On the first is a high-ceiling bar, and on the second a pretty-as-apicture bookstore stocking Chinese-language titles. The third level has a mini archery range (kid-oriented, with soft arrows) amidst the cacophony of pipes, machinery, and other clangy metal things. The fourth is lined with newpainted distillation vats; you can write wishes and blessings on small wooden tablets, Japanese style, place them on a long string, and they’ll eventually be “absorbed” into the vat. At this plant you can even get up outside on the roof’s catwalk, presenting rousing views.

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Directly behind the second plant is a line of three monstrous multi-story-high distillation towers. Today, inside one is a swank café, inside another a tall manyturn tube slide, and in the last a small museum exploring the troupe’s history and the refinery’s history, with a focus on the Japanese families whose lives revolved around the complex.

Elsewhere, get up to fun things like going right inside the cleaned-up interior of the 67m-high smokestack, doing some free-falling and ziplining (zipline launchpoint just below the catwalk on the second plant), and both learning about Ten Drum’s drums and drumming yourself, with a Ten Drum expert as your instructor.

TEN DRUM CULTURE VILLAGE (RENDE SUGAR FACTORY) ( 十鼓臺南仁糖文創園區 ) No. 326, Sec. 2, Wenhua Rd., Rende District, Tainan City ( 台南市仁德區文華路二段 326 號 ) 9:30am~5pm (daily) NT$449 (adults) tendrum.com.tw (Chinese)

Inside the smokestack

COUNTRYSIDE DISCOVERIES Heritage sites are not just to be found in the urban center of Tainan.

There are numerous places in the countryside worth visiting as well.

Other Recommended Places The Tainan Shan-Shang Garden and Old Waterworks Museum is in the countryside northeast of the city’s urban core. This heritage attraction provides a fascinating look into the systematic development work of the Japanese when they controlled Taiwan. This well-preserved complex took water from the Zengwen River and purified it before sending it on to Tainan City via what is now called the Old Tainan Watercourse, using a gravity water-supply system.

The Filter Room/Watercourse Office features red brick and a wooden roof. Inside the Filter Room are 14 complete sets of British-made fast-filtering machinery. The Pump Exhaust Room, built in the same style with extra-high ceiling, has an array of original large machinery, including four pumps and a skid crane. The Purification Pond, on a high hill reached via a grand staircase of 180 steep steps, is fronted by a fortress-like building built of natural stone and stone-imitation material.

Among the garden area’s ar tistic attractions are selected large-scale installations from the annual Yuguang Island Art Festival (see accompanying article).

Old red brick stone building

TAINAN SHAN-SHANG GARDEN AND OLD WATERWORKS MUSEUM ( 台南山上花園水道博物館 ) (06) 578-1900 No. 16, Shanshang, Shanshang Borough, Shanshang District, Tainan City ( 台南市山上區山上里山上 16 號 ) 9:30am~5:30pm (daily) NT$100 (adults) waterworks.tainan.gov.tw Filter Room 24

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Culture & History

The old farming-center town of Madou is north of the city’s urban core. Located alongside the Zengwen River, “Madou” is a Chinese rendering of the name of the original indigenous village that stood here. In days of yore sailing craft could make it to the Taiwan Strait from this area, and the busy local port sent such items as sugarcane sugar and deer leather for transport abroad. The port was also an arrival point for Han Chinese immigrants from mainland China. Silting eventually choked off the port.

The Madou Old Port Cultural Park celebrates these glory days with high-quality displays along with such vestiges of the port of old as traces of the old wharves, rivercraft moorings, viaducts, and old river channel.

The attractive on-site museum, an enticing work of modern abstract art, is entitled the Daofeng Inland Sea Story House, an indication of the local environment’s friendliness to sailing craft centuries back. Exhibits showcasing Taiwan artists are also staged here.

The Tsung Yeh Arts and Cultural Center is immediately south of the Madou Old Port Cultural Park. This is another heritage complex that dates to the Japanese era, site of a Japanese-operated sugar refinery. After the plant was demolished in 1998, calls went out to preserve the rest of the site. Today visitors can tour the Red Brick Off ice, Wooden Off icial Residence, Wooden Guest House, Red-Brick Dining Hall, Japanese Garden, an old sugarcane-transport narrow-gauge locomotive, and century-old camphor trees. This is now also a center for traditional crafts, with a craft center, special exhibitions, and workshops.

Entrance to the Madou Old Port Cultural Park

Long canoe made of oyster shells MADOU OLD PORT CULTURAL PARK ( 蔴荳古港文化園區 ) (06) 571-8088 No. 87-30, Nanshi, Nanshi Borough, Madou District, Tainan City ( 台南市麻豆區南勢里南勢 87-30 號 ) 9am~5pm (closed on Mon. & Tue.) www.twtainan.net/en/attractions/detail/4605 Public art on the grounds of the center

TSUNG YEH ARTS AND CULTURAL CENTER ( 總爺藝文中心 ) (06) 571-8088 No. 5, Zongye, Nanshi Borough, Madou District, Tainan City ( 台南市麻豆區南勢里總爺 5 號 ) 9am~5pm (closed on Mon. & Tue.) www.twtainan.net/en/attractions/detail/4604 www.facebook.com/TsungYehArtsandCulturalCenter

ENGLISH AND CHINESE Old Tainan Watercourse 原臺南水道 Ten Drum Art Percussion Group 十鼓擊樂團 Yuguang Island Art Festival 漁光島藝術節 Zengwen River 曾文溪

Dining Hall

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Old Tainan City Learns New T Tricks Young Entrepreneurs Bringing New Aesthetics to Old Architecture TE X T R I C K C H A R E T T E

P H OTOS R AY C H A N G, V I SI O N

The youthful generation is busy in long-sleepy old Tainan City, Taiwan’s oldest urban center, founded in the 1600s. Local young folk revel in giving new life, personality, and mission to the humbler old architectural jewels they’ve grown up with, creating a treasure map of small eateries, tea rooms, cafés, boutique hotels, and other culturalcreative enterprises for travelers to culture-spelunk.

44 Bit Records DJ Room

he city of Tainan was established by the colonizing Dutch in the early 160 0s, and taken over by the imperial Chinese in the late 1600s.

The colonizing Japanese more recently spent 50 years adding their own cultural touches, f rom 1895 to 1945. D u r i ng this period Taiwan’s political/cultural/ economic center shifted decisively north, and Tainan life slowed equally markedly, the benefit for today’s tourist being that much of the old city’s original architecture, grandiose and humble, survived Taiwan’s breakneck modernization.

Over the past few decades the city government has been hard at work on big rejuvenation projects. Here we present some of the best of the most recent smallerscale private-sector projects undertaken by the city’s young entrepreneurial ranks.

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Old & New Aesthetics

44 Bit Records Taiwan’s old urban cores are defined by neighborhoods of narrow-lane-and-alley grids, and Tainan’s are perhaps the most labyrinthine, arteries especially narrow and winding or zigzagging. The city is also renowned for the core’s legion of quality cafés and, today, ever-growing number of cultural-creative eateries and stylish modern-design tea rooms tucked away in “impossible” grid-hideaway spots that make finding them a pleasing treasure hunt.

A f i ne example of t h is is 4 4 Bit Records, on a somnolent lane facing a tranquil community park a short stroll from the Koxinga Shrine, a major Tainan tourist destination. A few doors down is a hole-in-the-wall singlestory temple with a brilliant-red façade tucked neatly in between two residential buildings. Right beside 44 Bit Records is the temple office, low-volume community notices pouring forth from an outdoor speaker.

44 Bit is on the ground level in a classic old-style deep and long two-story former residence with an exceedingly narrow façade of yellow brick. Inside, a long and slender passageway takes you first past the service counter, then a tiny DJ room, then a tiny sky-well, and finally to the exceedingly compact rear kitchen. Customer seating is in an attached newly built one-story structure next door that has exposed steel ceiling girders and a façade with a large multi-paned window and both wall section and window framing made of wood-mimicking steel.

44 BIT RECORDS ( 四四拍唱片行 ) No. 26, Lane 85, Sec. 1, Fuqian Rd., Central West District, Tainan City ( 台南市中西區府前路一段 85 巷 26 號 ) 10am~5pm (closed on Mon. and Tue.) www.facebook.com/44Bit

BACK TO THE '80s Vinyl records and tape cassette recorders bring back vivid memories to those who came of age in the 1980s

Though it serves various types of tea drinks, this retro-décor establishment slots into the aforementioned eatery rather than tea room category, a combo eater y/music-l isten i ng space. T he owner previously operated a beverage shop (Bit To Go chain) on a nearby major street, and the teas, tea drinks, and carbonated fruity drinks have made the pilgrimage here. Ref lecting the owner’s fondness for electronic music, the place is filled with old records and

CDs from around the globe, in the aforementioned dedicated DJ room and on stacked racks of DJ equipment. 44 Bit Records can be rented for special music-theme events, and DJ lessons are also available. While dining here you’ll be listening to easy-listening, not thumping, album selections.

Special ly recommended food selections are the BBQ chicken with cheese panini and the chicken in peanut sauce (piquant sauce made with peanut, tomato, papaya, and spices). These selections come with fresh organic garden salad, range-chicken egg, and saffron rice. Two customer-favorite drinks are a cold tea with kumquat juice, plum juice, and plum jelly cubes, and a carbonated fruit drink made with butterfly pea flower, peach yogurt, and assorted fruit-jelly cubes.

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TAINAN

Old & New Aesthetics

YoYoMei FotoShop

BACK TO PRE-DIGITAL The art form of shooting on film is almost extinct these days, but it's still alive and kicking at YoYoMei

One of the indelible impressions visitors leave Tainan with is the large, many-laned roundabouts in the city’s older area, waves of trucks, cars, and scooters weaving in and out. YoYoMei FotoShop stands on “Taiwan’s f irst roundabout,” which is also overlooked by the National Museum of Taiwan Literature, housed in one of Tainan’s most impressive heritage buildings.

YoYoMei is a unique combination, a true old-style photo shop that’s also an eatery, a place for folks who either pine for or are interested in learning about the days when analog photography ruled the world.

Seating area on the second floor

The drink colors match camera-film boxes

The f irst f loor operates as a photography-supply shop, with displays of film rolls and simple, inexpensive film cameras from Kodak, Konica, and Fujifilm (hereafter “K/K/F”). The service counter doubles as the eatery service counter, and there is diner seating throughout this space, as well as some seating outside on the sidewalk. The second floor, which has more seating, is also a photo-shoot space, with a number of nostalgia-theme backdrops for customers to use gratis, plus expensive analog equipment you can have the shop’s professional photographers use to create portraits for you (fee).

On the first floor, the most popular photo backdrop features a retro scooter and, above it, a section of wall with original exposed brick and a colorful framed stack of K/K/F film rolls. On the second floor, the best-used backdrop is a corner stacked with coloreffervescent retro Kodak ads.

This building has been operated as a photography shop since 1947. One of the two cultural-creative adventurers who have created

the present operation is from the third generation of the founding family. The two met through serendipity, and when the third-generation family member heard the other’s idea for a fusion photographytheme eatery/retail outlet/studio, he knew that his family’s business premises was just the right venue. Their YoYoMei FotoShop (a name different from that of the original family shop) opened in July last year.

At time of writing, the menu featured simple Western-style sandwich and salad food selections. This is set to be changed to iconic Tainan snack treats – the city is renowned for high-quality, inexpensive night-market/street-food cuisine. Among t he ea sy-to -pre pa re opt ion s bei ng considered are surf delicacies, such as shrimp/oyster rolls and eel noodles, and t ur f t reats, such as Tai nan-st yle beef soup and migao, most often translated as savory “glutinous-rice cake.” The existing beverage menu will be carried over, and cof fees may be added. C u r rent ly t he most popular drinks are a trio of fruity carbonated beverages matching the colors of the shop’s K/K/F camera-film boxes (yellow/blue/green).

Instagram-worthy corner

YOYOMEI FOTOSHOP ( 又又美 ) No. 15, Nanmen Rd., Central West District, Tainan City ( 台南市中西區南門路 15 號 ) 11am~7pm (closed on Tue.) www.facebook.com/yoyomei.2020

Shop area on the first floor

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Old & New Aesthetics

HuTu Teahouse Like 44 Bit Records, HuTu is another great example of the cultural-creative venture gems found deep in Tainan’s lane/alley labyrinths, a tea room that is just a short walk from the Old Tainan Magistrate Residence, a popular tourist attraction. When you find it, you’ll initially doubt yourself. Entry is via what seems a miniscule private first-f loor parking garage, up red-colored steel stairs that seem more like a fire escape.

Entry is on the second f loor, where you’ll pass through a sliding glass door into an elegant hall-like space with a triple-theme design – walls and support pillars of exposed concrete in minimalist industrial style, genteel wood furnishings in the style of an old European manor, and Tainan-theme terrazzo for the floor and face of the long service bar. As elsewhere in Taiwan, terrazzo was hugely popular from the Japanese colonial era (1895-1945) through to the 1970s, when rising labor costs drove prices too high.

Extra-large windows in the rear provide views through the green foliage of tall shade trees into a tiny hidden-away cubbyhole neighborhood park, accessed solely via two sliver-like alleyways. Part of the view is an old abandoned bungalow residence in one corner with a banyan tree growing out of it. Smaller windows in the front provide you with direct views, just meters away, of the residential facades opposite.

The beverage menu is a proud promotion of Taiwan’s best tea varietals. Among the most popular

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beverage/food options is a tea set with a fresh-brewed Taiwan oolong and Tainan-theme tidbits such as longan konjac, mung-bean cake, smoke-dried lychees, and osmanthus jelly. There are two cold-tea sets, each celebrating three Taiwan teas, the teas of very different color and character served in tall wine-style glasses. The more popular of the two sets presents Wenshan Baozhong Oolong, Luye Red Oolong, a nd Shanlinxi Honey Red Tea.

HUTU TEAHOUSE ( 蔛菟 ) (06) 391-3330 2F, No. 67, Lane 293, Qingnian Rd., East District, Tainan City ( 台南市東區青年路 293 巷 67 號 2 樓 ) 11am~6pm (closed on Mon. & Tue.) Make reservation via Instagram www.instagram.com/hututhetea

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Old & New Aesthetics

Other Places to Experience Old-Style Aesthetics Accommodation La Plaza Hotel

La Plaza Hotel

The La Plaza Hotel, a prestigious Tainan hotel name, underwent a thorough interior refurbishment and was officially renamed the Provintia Hotel in 2020 (note, however, that both names are still used). The new name honors an important nearby heritage site, Fort Provintia (Chikan Tower). The new interior-design theme for guestrooms, restaurant facilities, and public spaces is 1980s Tainan.

La Plaza Hotel ( 天下大飯店 ) (06) 229-0271 No. 202, Chenggong Rd., North District, Tainan City ( 台南市北區成功路 202 號 ) www.laplaza.com.tw Shopping Yebisu Kan

Yebisu Kan

The Yebisu Kan building was once home to one of Tainan’s four major movie theaters, from the Japanese colonial era (1895-1945) until 1961. In 1970 Taiwan’s renowned Black Bridge brand (maker of traditional-style sausages, meat floss, jerky, etc.) moved in, and in 2020 comprehensively renovated the retail facility to resemble a museum. Other iconic traditional-style food retailers have also been invited in.

Yebisu Kan ( 戎館 ) (06) 229-5248 No. 220, Zhongzheng Rd., Central West District, Tainan City ( 台南市中西區中正路 220 號 ) www.facebook.com/YebisuKan1935 Shopping/Café Paripari apt

Paripari apt ENGLISH AND CHINESE Bit To Go 小拍子飲品製造所 Black Bridge 黑橋牌 Fort Provintia (Chikan Tower) 普羅民遮城 ( 赤崁樓 ) Koxinga Shrine 延平郡王祠 Luye Red Oolong 鹿野紅烏龍 migao 米糕 National Museum of Taiwan Literature 國立臺灣文學館 Old Tainan Magistrate Residence 原臺南縣知事官邸 Shanlinxi Honey Red Tea 杉林溪蜜香紅茶 Wenshan Baozhong Oolong 文山包種烏龍

W h a t d o yo u t h i n k t h e n a m e Pa r i p a r i s i g n i f i e s?

Occupying a renovated three-story commercial building, this enterprise celebrates Tainan traditions while seeking to have you step into the Paris of the 1930s.

The 1F shop is filled with retro-style cultural-creative items referencing old-time Tainan culture. The 2F café is meant to capture the spirit of old-time gay Paris.

Paripari apt (06) 221-2866 No. 9, Lane 158, Sec. 2, Zhongyi Rd., Central West District, Tainan City ( 台南市中西區忠義路二段 158 巷 9 號 ) 11am~6pm paripariapt.co www.facebook.com/paripariapt

Island Getaway in the Big City Overnighting on Tainan’s Yuguang Island TE X T R I C K C H A R E T T E

P H OTOS R AY C H A N G, Y U - G UA N G B & B, M AO H O U S E

Small, tranquil, and attractive Yuguang Island lies directly off the coast on the south side of Tainan City’s Anping Harbor, just a bridge-hop from the mainland shore. A popular day-trip destination both for locals and tourists exploring the city on multiday visits, new purpose-built inn-style homestays, a new museum, and new onland/on-water fun activities have now brought it even more compelling allure.

Yu-Guang B&B This three-story inn-style B&B is the realized vision of a local Tainan couple that has their own architecture/interior design firm. Standing along a narrow lane in the middle of the island’s largest cluster of old houses, it stands in striking contrast, its design a world apart. It also stands taller than its neighbors, save for a number of other newly-built structures, in which the couple have been involved, as well as the B&B we visit in the next section.

Yu-Guang B&B is a sleek stylized rendition of a traditional upscale Japanese home. The exterior is full Japanese, with gleaming-white walls, exposed timber beams, and steeply sloping roofs (covered with metal-made mimic tiling). The interior is a soothing fusion of chic modern and traditional Japanese elements. Inside you’ll see aesthetic use of tatami flooring as well as chabudai (tables with short legs) in guestrooms, a Japanese-style landscaped inner courtyard, a small Zen garden, and so on. Polished woods, stone, and ceramics are prevalent.

Decades back the owner-couple bought the plot of farmland here, and left it undeveloped. Feeling that still today in Taiwan too few residence-builders pay attention to exterior/interior aesthetics, often leaving communities with a chaotic, jerry-built look, they decided to build this B&B as a model home for the island (and hopefully beyond), aspiring to guide its unfolding look as tourism brings more development and the original homes slowly disappear. To bring calm amidst the surrounding eclectic cacophony of colors, the choice was made to use cool earth colors – contrasting with the whites and lesscommon sunny yellows are browns, grays, and blacks.

They have just finished another multi-story B&B directly across the lane from Yu-Guang, which has a wholly different design. And around the corner you’ll see another large home very similar to the first B&B; the couple built and then sold this.

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FUSION OF CHIC AND MODERN The elegant Japanese-style tatami floor room, complete with stone garden outside, makes you almost forget that you are in Tainan

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Local Stay

Outside view of the B&B

The Yu-Guang guestrooms all come with full modern amenities, including bathrooms. One room features full tatami flooring with soft satin/ cotton amenities provided for sleeping on the floor.

The other five rooms have regular Western-style beds. A free Chinese-style breakfast is served, with iconic Tainan-style beef soup and minced/soybraised pork on rice the centerpieces. This can be taken in the smart main-floor café, featuring floorto-ceiling glass on two sides, or the semi-enclosed stone-laid patio outside the glass. Coffees, teas, fruit drinks, and snacks are served here throughout the day. Avid exercisers should also note that bikes are provided for guest use, gratis.

YU-GUANG B&B ( 餘光 ) 0900-628-226 No. 8, Lane 119, Yuguang Rd., Anping District, Tainan City ( 台南市安平區漁光路 119 巷 8 號 ) www.yu-guang.com.tw

Guestroom with Western-style bed and Japanese-style tatami corner

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Local Stay

Mao House The Mao House creator/owner proudly proclaims that though his large inn-style B&B of multiple three-story buildings is sleek and modern in look and amenities, this is a space of nostalgia and old-time Yuguang memories.

Before the arrival of the new architecture, this plot of land was home to an old lady living in a small and rustic abode. She decided to sell her land, house, and “lifetime of memories” to help her son buy a home.

To honor these memories the new owner, surnamed Mao, has sought to create a new space where guests will feel a strong sense of “coming home.” The facility has three buildings, the Gold Mao House, Glass House, and Time House, complemented by a large courtyard and tiny courtyard/pool areas. With all three structures exposed concrete is a predominant theme, polished woods a strong secondary theme.

In deliberate contrast to the squarishness of the surrounding neighborhood’s elderly architecture, the Mao House features liberal use of sharp and irregular oblique angles both in its exteriors and interiors. At the same time, with all buildings there is a nostalgic nod to Yuguang’s fishing and fish-farming heritage through the presentation of water visuals – while moving about inside guests encounter images of the small, serene, and shallow landscape pools right outside, seen through large glass portals.

SLEEK CONCRETE The gray concrete and blonde wood, paired with sharp and irregular angles, give the B&B an ultra-stylish look

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Local Stay

The Gold Mao House, where the five guestrooms are located, is so named because of the vibrant use of blonde woods. This motif is most visually dramatic on the exterior.

The house is shaped much like a modern-design church, and the blonde-wood slatting that covers much of one end wall evokes the expansive stained-glass artwork often used at such churches. Behind the slatting is glass, which brings ethereal light-and-shadow patterns into the interior and causes the house to glow from within at night.

In the Glass House there are many large windows, and in various places full-glass exterior walls. Defining the Time House is the use of rustic darker woods, heavier old-style wood doors, and 1960s-style retro furnishings.

Formerly housing guestrooms, these are now dedicated private art galleries, open to all by appointment.

On one side of the large main courtyard is a long covered patio area with a very long picnic-style table that has outward-facing walls of glass. This is a supremely comfy place to while away the hours, from your gratis Chinese-style breakfast and gratis tea-time treats through to deep-evening reading, working, and chatting hours. Guests desirous of exercise can use the B&B’s free-use bicycles.

MAO HOUSE ( 毛屋 ) (06) 391-2113 No. 1, Lane 119, Yuguang Rd., Anping District, Tainan City ( 台南市安平區漁光路 119 巷 1 號 ) www.maowu.tw

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Local Stay

THE LAST GLOW Glorious sunsets can be witnessed from the shores of Yuguang Island with hundreds of oyster racks seen scattered on the sea

Yuguang Island Yuguang Island is today the sole offshore island facing Tainan’s urban core. There is a great deal of silting along the Tainan coast, and over the centuries islands slowly appear – and disappear. This one, locals aver, is just over a century old. Facing the renowned Eternal Golden Castle on the mainland, it’s reached by a short, high bridge just south of the fort. A well-constructed boardwalk network takes visitors through the island’s west-side forest cover to the sandy beach on the Taiwan Strait-facing long, crescentshaped Moon Bay, where people picnic; soon-to-be-wed couples come for photo shoots and photography enthusiasts come for the glowing sunsets; small sailboats, kayakers, and paddleboarders ply the gentle waters; and fishermen in small craft move about tending their oyster racks on the bay’s outer fringe and open water beyond. The island is just 400ha in size, and has a permanent population somewhere above 200, all living on the wind-protected east side.

The popular Saba Milkfish Theme Museum was moved onto the island just last year. It was previously located beside the Eternal Golden Castle grounds. Tainan is 36

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Forest boardwalk

one of Taiwan’s aquaculture centers, and milkfish is king. The museum’s highly engaging and energetic founder, who also leads its educational presentations, DIY sessions, and walking tours, is affectionately known as Taiwan’s “Queen of Milkfish.” She founded the museum as a means to create a wider milkfish-consumer base and help the region’s fish farmers.

Visitors are greeted at the entrance with an aquarium housing milkfish. The interior is adorned with large hanging milkfish models and tongue-in-cheek models of cats, “milkfish’s biggest fan.” There is a large gift-shop area with such tasty packaged goodies as milkfish balls, sauce, and floss, and unconventional creations such as sausage and even ice cream. Tasting samples are liberally dispensed.

During the educational presentation (fee), an overview of the traditional Taiwan milkfish industry and associated farmer-folk culture is provided. Two types of DIY activity (fee) are offered: making (and eating) milkfish balls and making milkfish hand soap (to take home). Also offered is a Yuguang walking tour, a temple tour that takes you to the mainland, and a 3-in-1 Moon Bay SUP/sailing/ kayaking session (fee for each). To confirm, the Queen of Milkfish does not lead the last. Call the museum about a week in advance if English is needed for any of the above activities.

On the island walking tour, among other things you’re taken to the founder’s own milkfish ponds (organic cultivation), with herons, egrets, and ducks galore attracted by the healthy environment. If the oyster boats are freshly in at the small north-end fishing port, you might get to do some shucking. A superb view across busy Anping Harbor is enjoyed at the north tip, craft of many types passing directly by. You’re taken both through the forest and along Moon Bay, and shown Yuguang’s premier sunset-viewing spot – the dike at Moon Bay’s north end, hundreds of oyster racks between you and the glowing orb. And you’ll pass the old-timey “Grandma’s Tea Eggs” stand, outside grandma’s simple wood-built bungalow; the full Yuguang community began planting beefwood trees on the thenbare island around the middle of last century, and grandma is the sole survivor from that era.

Milkfish pond Sabafish Milkfish Theme Museum

ENGLISH AND CHINESE Anping Harbor 安平港 Eternal Golden Castle 億載金城 Glass House 透明大屋 Gold Mao House 金毛屋 "Grandma's Tea Eggs" 阿婆茶葉蛋 Moon Bay 月牙灣 "Queen of Milkfish" 虱目魚女王 Time House 時空小屋 Yuguang Island 漁光島

SABAFISH MILKFISH THEME MUSEUM ( 虱目魚主題館 ) (06) 391-3330 No. 128-2, Yuguang Rd., Anping District, Tainan City (台南市安平區漁光路128-2 號 ) 9am~5pm www.sabafish.com (Chinese)

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GOOD FOOD

vegan Vegetarian Cuisine

Going Meat-Free in Taipei After a slow start, the eco-conscious, plant-based food trend has finally taken firm root in Taiwan. The past two years in particular have seen a diverse scene blossom, with options to suit everyone from the flexitarian to the committed lentil fanatic. What follows is a brief foray into local meat-free dining.

TE X T A M I B A R N ES

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P H OTOS C H EN C H EN G - K U O

Eating Vegetarian in Taiwan As a proud card-carrying member of the lentil lovers community, I can quite honestly say that Taiwan is a vegetarian’s paradise. For those in the know, there is always a mouthful of somet h i ng tast y wait i ng nea rby to be devoured, often at a thoroughly reasonable price. One reason for this is high rates of vegetarianism and veganism amongst the more devoutly religious older generations, and it’s not unusual to find restaurants playing Buddhist chants on an inf inite (and earwormy) loop. These places are often small aunty-run stalls turning out bowl after bowl of homely sesame-slathered noodles, braised vegetables, and medicinal soups, or else payby-weight self-serve canteens where you can pile your plate high with whatever seasonal veggies are currently available.

Against this backdrop of already plentiful vegeta r ia n d i n i ng opt ions, a g row i ng environmental awareness has seen increasing numbers of young Taiwanese folk ditch the meat and dairy in favor of plant-based diets.

There are now scores of YouTube channels teaching people how to cook healthy vegan meals, and rarely does a month goes by without the opening of new restaurants or the arrival of more meat-free options on the supermarket shelves. There has never been a more exciting time to be a vegetarian in Taiwan.

Below are introductions to three of the most popular vegetarian restaurants in Taipei.

BAGANHOOD (02) 3762-2557 No. 11, Alley 46, Lane 553, Sec. 4, Zhongxiao E. Rd., Xinyi District, Taipei City ( 台北市信義區忠孝東路四段 553 巷 46 弄 11 號 ) www.facebook.com/baganhood 11:30am~4pm; 5pm~10pm (daily)

GOOD FOOD

Vegetarian Cuisine

BaganHood BaganHood’s founding duo – Carrie and Eric – aren’t interested in preaching to the choir (or preaching at all for that matter). Their vision is to create a place where a devoted carnivore could stumble in oblivious to the absence of meat and leave satisfied, possibly still none the wiser that the meal they’d just tucked into was entirely plant-derived. Somewhere people will return to despite the lack of meat, simply because it’s more delicious than the alternatives. This may sound preposterous if you’ve yet to taste the food, but it feels like they might just be well placed to succeed. Everything about this Xinyi District eatery, from the subtly stylish hues of rich blues and browns to the dimmed lighting, prominently displayed spirits, and laidback, trendy atmosphere, is calibrated to challenge the stereotype of what a Taiwanese vegetarian restaurant is, and the food is crafted to appeal to a palate more accustomed to an omnivorous diet (they reckon around 80% of their customers are meat-eaters).

The menu features a variety of burgers, bowls, pizzas, and salads, with plent y of appetizers and an extensive beverage selection. Dishes make inventive use of plant-based “meats” such as selections from Beyond Meat and its Hong Kong-based rival OmniPork. And while there are enough menu options for those who aren’t quite ready to jump on the mock meat train, BaganHood does a stupendous job of cooking with these ingredients.

Burgers are constructed around a plant-based patty paired with one of the kitchen’s homemade sauces (a vital part of a “real” burger experience), and served with salad and fries. The ever-popular truffle burger, for example, is a winning combination of a Beyond Meat patty with creamy cheese and truffle sauces.

Vegan cheeses add the f inishing touch to the pizzas – we tried one loaded with spicy OmniPork sausage, mushroom, and jalapeños, which had me questioning just how many delightful pizza toppings I had previously missed out on.

Other customer favorites include the chili mac’n’cheese (buttery, fragrant, and possessing a slight kick from the chili) and the Thaistyle mylk tea. The latter is a delightfully smooth concoction of frozen spheres of Thai-style tea served alongside a glass of warm mylk – the perfect accompaniment for a vegan cinnamon roll.

If you need a restaurant that can cater to a mixed group of vegans and vegan-skeptics, BaganHood fits the bill perfectly. Just make sure to book a table; it’s not uncommon to see a queue of expectant diners waiting outside for their slice of the plant-free pie.

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GOOD FOOD

Vegetarian Cuisine

Chao Stir Fry “Looks like the real deal…only cleaner,” was the reaction of my dining companion when we made our way off the streets of Daan District and into Chao Stir Fry. Stir-fry joints like this (known as rechao in Mandarin) fulfill a vital role in Taiwan’s culinary ecosystem. They’re unpretentious, sociable, and often stay open late, with customers washing down steaming plates of garlicky morsels with cold beer and easy chat. Thankfully, Chao (another venture from the pair behind BaganHood) retains the charm of a classic rechao…just minus the meat.

Chao’s commitment to replicating the local stir-fry experience is full. Diners are greeted at the door with a fish tank (it’s as vegan as the food), the music is a blend of Mandarin and Taiwanese pop, and even the overall color scheme is in keeping with a traditional rechao restaurant. Black-and-chrome tables ringed by red stools are each completed with all the trappings of a stir-fry meal: unfussy crockery (all the better for sharing), thick glasses waiting to welcome beer (or tea if that’s your thing), and a tabletop canister stove for a warming pot of soup.

MEAT-FREE STIR FRY Everything is made to resemble a common stir-fry restaurant; it's just cleaner and no meat is served

Ordering is simple: scan the QR code, make your selection, and it’ll be sent straight through to the kitchen. The hardest part is agreeing on what to order! In some instances the dishes on offer cleave close to what you would expect: classics such as mapo tofu, fried noodles, gongbao chicken, string beans, pineapple and bitter melon soup are all present. However in other cases the chefs have taken a little creative license so the ingredients can play to their strengths – three-cup chicken has become three-cup mushroom, while sweet and sour pork is now sweet and sour “fish.”

Of the food we ordered, the standout star was a dish named “Can’t Find the Stinky Tofu” – a dome of the crumbled piquant Taiwanese favorite topped with crisp f lakes of youtiao (a type of deep-fried breadstick). It’s one of the venue’s most popular items, and I’m already eagerly anticipating my

return visit just for this. The gongbao chicken was meaty, spicy, and studded with moreish roasted peanuts, the sweet and sour fish was sticky and tangy with a pleasing chewiness, and the string beans had that satisfying combination of oiliness, saltiness, and crunch.

To make the most of your visit, take a friend who can help you decipher the Chinese menu. In fact, while you’re at it, why not take a whole group?

After all, it’s an incontrovertible fact that rechao tastes even better when the conversation (and beer) is flowing.

CHAO STIR FRY ( 炒炒蔬食熱炒 ) (02) 2775-3005 No. 21, Lane 52, Sec. 1, Daan Rd., Daan District, Taipei City ( 台北市大安區大安路一段 52 巷 21 號 ) www.instagram.com/chao_stir_fry www.facebook.com/chaochaostirfry 5:30pm~midnight (weekdays); 11:30am~2:30pm, 5:30pm~10pm (weekends & holidays) TR AVEL IN TAIWAN

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GOOD FOOD

Vegetarian Cuisine

Plants Eatery A stalwart of Taipei’s plant-based community, Plants Eatery could not be more different from the venues detailed above.

You’ll find no fake meats here, no attempt to cajole meat-eaters into passing up the pork, only fresh ingredients thoughtfully prepared. “If the food is good enough people will come back,” remarks Lily (who cofounded the place alongside her wife, Square), emanating the quiet confidence of someone who truly knows her craft. Upon opening close to MRT Daan Station in 2016, Plants stood among the pioneers of Taiwan’s meat-free revolution – back then an up-market vegetarian eatery was an exceedingly rare find, let alone one dishing up raw and fully plant-based fare.

The leafy storefront window frames an airy canteen, all wooden surfaces and clean lines. This quintessential wholefoods café look is bolstered by the presence of an eco-store to which customers can bring their own containers to get refills of household essentials like laundry detergent. The founders’ holistic food philosophy stretches far beyond the manner in which ingredients used to encompass how they’re grown (organically), sourced (locally in almost all instances, fairtrade), and prepared (without refined sugar, often raw). Even the restaurant’s design has been carried out with an emphasis on using non-toxic, durable, and (where possible) recycled components.

Plants unabashedly puts its namesake at the heart of its menu, offering choices bursting with seasonal produce. A veritable rainbow of fruits and vegetables grace their selection of energy bowls, sharing plates, nourishing mains, and smoothies.

FEEL HAPPY It looks good, it tastes good, and it does you and the environment good

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In addition to being entirely plant-based, the whole menu is gluten-free and soy-free (with clear descriptions allowing customers to choose nut and allium-free options too).

The cheekily named beet tartare packs a bold punch of f lavor; spicy and sour beetroot is balanced with slices of cucumber, sour cream, and raw toast (the toast utilizes pulp left over from their in-house mylk-making process – the kitchen runs on as close to a zero-waste policy as is possible). The lentil falafel is offset perfectly with sprouted mung-bean hummus, tabbouleh salad, and housemade sauerkraut. And the papaya party bowl is a decadent riot of velvety fruit puree, chia pudding, their signature rawnola, and bite-sized chunks of apple.

With each bite you can taste the consideration that has gone into preparing and presenting the food.

I am a wholehearted convert. Plants manages to pull off the holy trinity of good food and then some: it looks good, tastes good, and does you good, and does good by the environment. If you want to feel happy about your food choices, I can’t think of a better place to visit.

PLANTS EATERY (02) 2784-5677 No. 10, Lane 253, Fuxing S. Rd., Daan District, Taipei City ( 台北市大安區復興南路一段 253 巷 10 號 ) www.plantseatery.com.tw 11:30am~9:30pm (Tue.~Sun.) ENGLISH AND CHINESE "Can’t Find the Stinky Tofu" 找不到臭豆腐 Daan District 大安區 gongbao chicken 宮保雞丁 mapo tofu 麻婆豆腐 rechao 熱炒 three-cup chicken 三杯雞 Xinyi District 信義區 youtiao 油條

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LITTLE THINGS

Temple Practices

Bai-Bai, Not Bye Bye Praying in Local Temples TE X T V I SI O N

I LLU STR ATIO N S I A N T S A I

It is very common to hear people in Taiwan saying “bye bye” when parting, a practice adapted from the English language. Also commonly heard is the Mandarin bai-bai, used when referring to praying at a Daoist, Confucian, or Buddhist temple.

W

hile “bye bye” seems to be rather mundane, if you do a bit of etymological research you’ll find that the word “bye” is, not surprisingly, the abbreviated version of “goodbye,” which, more interestingly, is a shorter version of “God be with ye.” The Chinese character for bai ( 拜 ) shows two distinct parts that represent two hands (or one hand and a head in its earliest form), depicting fittingly how the faithful go about praying to deities in temples by putting two hands together. While it would be a stretch to say that the English salutation and the Chinese term for praying are in any way related, what they have in common is the wish of humans to be in close contact with the divine.

LITTLE THINGS

Temple Practices

Temple Etiquette Heading to a local temple is often part of tourist itineraries, and while watching locals come to pray, you might wonder what the proper etiquette is for visiting a temple and how to go about communicating with the gods.

The most basic way to bai-bai is to stand in front of a deity, put your hands together, introduce yourself by silently giving your name, the place you live, and your birthday, and then proceed with making a request or give thanks for a blessing already received.

While this seems rather simple, there are, however, various rules to observe to get a temple visit right and stay clear of possibly offending its celestial residents. But rest assured, even if you don’t get everything right, as long as you act with sincerity and honesty while trying to show proper respect to the gods you should be fine.

Entering and Exiting One thing easy to remember is that you are supposed to enter a temple’s main hall through the entrance on the right (also known as the dragon gate) and exit on the left (tiger gate). Often you will see stone reliefs or paintings depicting a dragon and a tiger, respectively, right at these entrances.

Never walk through the entrance in the middle, which is reserved for the gods!

Holding Incense Sticks Holding incense sticks, the preferred way is to use your left hand and wrap your right around it. The sticks are held in front of your chest, and while praying you can lean forward slightly to show respect to the god you are facing. You can put one or more incense sticks into a censer, but make sure it’s an odd number.

Which God First?

There is a hierarchy to be observed when intending to pray before several different deities. The highest-ranking god is the Jade Emperor, so you want to pray in front of his censer first, facing outside the temple. Next up, now facing the statues inside the temple, is the main deity of the temple, for example Mazu. Then it’s on to the altars to the side of the main deity, and, if the temple is large, to other deities in side chambers, the back hall, and other floors.

Moon Blocks One practice at temples tourists are often especially curious about is the throwing of two crescent-shaped blocks ( jiaobei) on the ground in front of a deity. Each block has a flat and a curved side. This is done by people who seek divine guidance for important decisions in their lives. By throwing the blocks they hope to get a clear answer on what to do from a god.

There are three possible outcomes. If the two blocks land on the ground with both flat sides facing up, it means the god is “laughing” (xiaojiao) and is not answering the question, yet.

You can throw the blocks again. If both curved sides face up (yinjiao) the next time, it means the answer to the question is “No.” If one block’s flat side and the other one’s curved side face up (shengjiao), the answer to the question is “Yes.” ENGLISH AND CHINESE bai-bai 拜拜 Jade Emperor 玉皇大帝 jiaobei 筊杯 Mazu 媽祖 shengjiao 聖筊 xiaojiao 笑筊 yinjiao 陰筊 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN

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EXPERT TALK

Strawberry Farm

FILL YOUR PUNNETS! Strawberry Picking and Other Farm Fun in Taipei’s Neihu District Winter in Taiwan is strawberry season. Beginning in December, the farms nestled in the hills of the northeast part of Taipei City blush crimson with the year's harvest, attracting families eager to exchange the city's bustle and seasonal drizzle for a far more bucolic environment and fill their punnets to the brim with sweet, juicy, ruby-red fruit.

TE X T OWA I N M C K I M M PH OTOS C H EN C H EN G - K U O

WINTERTIME - STRAWBERRY TIME! If you want to pick fresh fruit in the Taipei area, head to farms in the hills of Neihu District

Strawberry Farming in Taiwan St rawber r ies are not native to Ta iwa n, but were i n fac t introduced by the Japanese in 1934 when the island was a colony of the Japanese empire. Initially, the strawberries grown on the island we r e not c o n s id e r e d a b u nd a nt o r high-quality enough to sell directly to consumers, and were instead largely used in processed goods, such as jams and vinegars.

In the late ’70s, however, “U-pick” strawberry farms began to gradually take off. These were given something of a boost in 1985 with the introduction of a new cultivar from Japan – the “Toyonoka” – which, more adaptable to Taiwan's climate in more northerly areas, produced higher yields of large, hardy, sweet berries ideal for visitors to pick themselves. Even today, many of Taiwan's locally developed cultivars are descended from this ’80s sensation.

A sk a nyone i n Ta iwa n wh ic h a r e a of t he cou nt r y i s sy nony mou s w it h st rawbe r r ies a nd t he a n s we r you w i l l undoubtedly get is Dahu Township – commonly known as Taiwan's “Strawberry Kingdom.” And it indeed deserves the name, as over 75% of Taiwan's strawberries are grown there.

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However, for Taipei-based day-trippers, Dahu – situated in rural Miaoli County in north-central Taiwan – is not the most convenient destination to reach by public transport. Fortunately, there is an option far closer at hand, in the foothills that rise between Yangmingshan National Park and the urban f latlands area of the eastern Taipei district of Neihu. Here, during the harvest season (which runs roughly from December to May), the avid strawberry picker will find plenty of leisure farms offering U-pick experiences, along with hands-on DIY activities that make use of the fruit as well as locally produced strawberry cuisine.

EXPERT TALK

Strawberry Farm

Visiting the Nong Yi Jhan Farm in Neihu The strawberry farms of Neihu are largely concentrated in a cirque in the hills known as Baishihu (lit. “White-Stone Lake”), once known for its rice and tea cultivation, which went back as far as the Qing Dynasty. Over the generations, as the number of local farmers left to seek their fortunes in the big city, the area gradually fell into a kind of decline. When the self-pick strawberry trend took off in the 1980s, however, many of the remaining farms decided to adopt the crop, bringing life and business into the area once again.

And, thanks to the amicable climate (the area has an elevation similar to that of Dahu Township), including a large temperature drop between day and night – a factor which aids sugar development i n st rawber r ies – t hese rec reat iona l strawberry farms have thrived.

Lin Tsui-e and her family members, who run Nong Yi JhanFarm in Neihu

Organic produce from the vegetable garden

One of the farmers pushing the area's reputation as an in-city agro-tourism destination is the chairperson of the Taipei City Recreational Agriculture Development Association, Lin Tsui-e, a fourth-generation farmer who, along with her t wo sisters, operates Nong Yi Jhan Farm, which specializes in small-scale organic production of strawberries as well as other crops such as garden vegetables and honey. “We have been growing strawberries here since the early eighties” Lin says, “but after my father passed away thirty years ago, we scaled back operations and only grew enough produce to feed ourselves.” About a decade ago, after one of her sisters recovered from a serious illness, the three decided to take an extended break to travel the world, during which they discovered the growing worldwide popularity of organic farming. “When we returned from abroad,” Lin says, “we decided to make a go of it. We had this land, we had our health – it seemed like an opportunity to foster a positive relationship with the environment.” Lin, as the eldest, took charge of the business, while her sisters – one passionate about agriculture and the other about food – began researching organic methodology and ways to incorporate their crops into cuisine.

Today the farm is a small but busy operation with a large activity and food preparation area that looks out onto a packed garden full of carrots, scallions, radishes, and a variety of lettuces and herbs, as well as several beehives. Dur i ng st rawber r y season, t wo adjacent greenhouses with growing tubs stacked on racks for ease of picking provide a small but high-quality yield of organic strawberries four times per season.

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EXPERT TALK

Strawberry Farm

Fun at the Farm As the far m has a relatively small yield compared to some nearby operations, U-pick activities are only available on weekends, and those wanting to pick the farm's strawberries should call ahead to make a reservation to ensure that there are suff icient ripe ones available. The main cultivar grown at the fa r m i s t he Nei hu No.1, a ha rdy, longlasting variety that produces firm, plump berries more resistant to bruising than other cultivars, one jin (600g) of which is priced at NT$600 – admittedly a little pricier than ot her Nei hu fa r ms, but such is t he cost of small-scale organic farming. For those wanting to f lex their culinar y muscles, a number of DIY activities are also on offer, which include making rustic strawberry jam and vinegar, strawberry-infused fortune cakes (sticky, steamed cakes eaten during Lunar New Year) and strawberry-f lavored tangyuan (a winter dessert consisting of chewy glutinous rice-flour balls served in a hot, syrupy soup).

Vegetable garden

Should you miss the strawberry season, the farm continues to operate year round, offering activities based on whichever crop is in abundance at the time. The roselle harvest, for example, follows closely on the heels of strawberry season, while scallion picking (and the making of scallion pancakes) is a year-round favorite. Prices for the activity packages can be discussed on the phone with Lin and vary depending on each group's preferences and requirements.

Nong Yi Jhan Farm, along with the many other strawberrygrowing operations in Neihu, is easily accessible by public transport from Taipei. Visitors can take the MRT to Neihu Station on the Brown Line and transfer to the regular Taipei City Bus S2 to Baishihu, roughly 2km away.

NONG YI JHAN FARM ( 農驛棧農場 ) 0912-472-001 No. 45-8, Bishan Rd., Neihu District, Taipei City ( 台北市內湖區碧山路 45-8 號 ) lintsuiling.blogspot.tw (Chinese)

Spring rolls with vegetables and strawberries

A bowl of steamed savory rice cake 48

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ENGLISH AND CHINESE Baishihu 白石湖 Dahu 大湖 jin 斤 Lin Tsui-e 林翠娥 Neihu 內湖 "Strawberry Kingdom" 草莓王國 tangyuan 湯圓 Yangmingshan National Park 陽明山國家公園

HOT! STAY / EAT / BUY HOTEL Tainan

HOTEL Yilan

Just Sleep Tainan Ten-Drum

Fusen Satoyama

Just Sleep Tainan Ten-Drum is located right next to the Ten Drum Culture Village and close to Chimei Museum, Hushan Forest, and the Mitsui Outlet Park Tainan, integrating a diverse range of natural, cultural, and commercial attractions. Throughout the hotel you can see nostalgic elements related to the old sugar factory and the art of drumming. Access to the hotel is convenient; it’s just 15 minutes by car to the Tainan High Speed Rail Station and central Tainan. Close to the city, guests can enjoy tranquility and refined beauty for a new interpretation of going at a slow pace in Tainan.

The hotel promotes the "Return to the Mountain and Listen to Your Heart" accommodation package, including one overnight stay and three meals, plus guided art environment tour and DIY experience activities. Rooms are painted in ocean sky blue, forest grass green, and warm earth, the wooden furniture further allowing you to feel like living in the forest. The hotel has invited famous Austrian chef Franz Huick to co-design a dinner menu for exclusive guests together with Chef Zhang Jia-cheng. The menu features seasonal produce and local ingredients sourced in Yilan. DIY activities include potted plant arrangements and weaving bracelets. Also offered are guided night tours during which you can marvel at a star-studded night sky.

捷絲旅台南十鼓館

No. 300, Sec. 2, Wenhua Rd., Rende District, Tainan City ( 台南市仁德區文華路二段 300 號 ) Tel: (06) 266-2528 www.justsleep.com.tw/ten-drum/en/

TOUR Yilan

Master Guan’s Leisure Farm 官老爺休閒農場

In addition to farm experience activities such as rice sampling transplanting, rice cutting and threshing, the farm also offers DIY making of scallion pancakes, fermented bean curd, slightly fermented kouji, and pickled cantaloupe. The fried ice experience making use of pure golden jujube juice, a specialty of Yilan, is the most popular among visitors. In addition, the farm also uses Zhuangwei cantaloupe for delicious dishes such as "Cantaloupe Steamed Fish", "Cantaloupe King Oyster Mushroom", "Cantaloupe Chicken Soup", and "Cantaloupe Fresh Meat". Don't forget to buy handmade pickles and take home specialties of Zhuangwei to share with friends and family!

Hours: 9am~5pm; all year round; advance reservation required No. 3, Wuhan Bridge Rd., Mao Borough, Zhuangwei Township, Yilan County ( 宜蘭縣壯圍鄉貓里霧罕橋路 3 號 ) Tel: (03) 925-3517 www.facebook.com/kuan0932088300/

TOUR Yilan

馥森里山園區

No. 205, Gengxin Rd., Toucheng Township, Yilan County ( 宜蘭縣頭城鎮更新路 205 號 ) Tel: (03) 9772168 Reservation hotline: (02) 2577-1589 www.volandosatoyama.com

BUY Taipei

TenRen's Tea

天仁茗茶

TenRen's Tea provides a friendly environment where you can enjoy delicious food, drink excellent tea, and buy special souvenirs.

Taste natural and healthful tea cuisine dishes, and try and buy tea produced in Taiwan. cha FOR TEA ToGo offers a wide variety of stunningly flavorful tea drinks.

Apart from bubble tea (“pearl milk tea”), a mustdrink when visiting Taiwan, you also have to try the 913 King’s Tea, which is only available at cha FOR TEA ToGo. In addition to the pleasant flavor of high-mountain Oolong tea, you can also experience the sweet after taste of ginseng.

TenRen’s Tea Taipei – Ximen Branch ( 天仁茗茶台北 - 西門店 ) No. 76, Xining S. Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市西寧南路 76 號 ) Tel: +886-2-2361-1986 Hours: 10:00~21:30 mytenren.com

TOUR New Taipei

Niutousi – Water Buffalo Farm

Starry X Sky Art Vegan Village

“Plowing Experience” – Lead water buffalos to the field and experience plowing the soil. Niutousi also provides numerous experience activities related to the recycling and utilization of cow dung. The “Cow Dung Fire Popcorn” experience introduces you to drying cow dung cakes for burning.

Experience what it’s like to make popcorn on a fire of burning cow dung. During the “Potted Plant DIY” activity you will learn how to use cow dung to make compost for potted plants. A variety of souvenirs are sold at the farm, such as the "Small Farm Mother's Handmade Fermented Bean Curd" and the pineapple-flavored fermented bean curd, which has a fruity aroma and is visitors’ favorite!

The village focuses on DIY activities using recycled material and ocean waste, such as plant dyeing, color painting of buoys, and sea glass mosaic collages.

Since 2008, Fulong Beach has been the venue of the Fulong Int’l Sand Sculpture Art Festival and the village’s "Sand for Fun Art Studio" is the only sand art base in Taiwan that teaches the art of creating sand sculptures. The studio was established in 2017 to offer sand sculpture courses, allowing visitors to learn about this art form through a combination of environmental protection and the art of sculpting.

Fine-sand Sculpture Course (1.5hrs): NT$980/pers. (half price for second participant) 3D Sand Painting Course (2hrs): NT$1,500/pers. (works can be taken home)

No. 21, Lane 122, Sec. 1, Dafu Rd., Zhuangyuan Township, Yilan County ( 宜蘭縣壯圍鄉大福路一段 122 巷 21 號 ) Tel: (03) 930-7707 www.facebook.com/calfstirk2018

No. 44, Fulong St., Gongliao District, New Taipei City ( 新北市貢寮區福隆街 44 號 ) Tel: 0938-193-735 (Ms Chen Ya-hui, guide) www.skyartvegan.com

牛頭司 - 耕牛小學堂

星空 X 藝素村

A New Standard of Accommodation Combining Nostalgia and Luxury Just Sleep Tainan Ten-Drum is located right next to the Ten Drum Culture Village and close to Chimei Museum, Hushan Forest, and the Mitsui Outlet Park Tainan, integrating a diverse range of natural, cultural, and commercial attractions. Throughout the hotel you can see nostalgic elements related to the old sugar factory and the art of drumming. Access to the hotel is convenient; it’s just 15 minutes by car to the Tainan High Speed Rail Station and central Tainan. Close to the city, guests can enjoy tranquility and refined beauty for a new interpretation of going at a slow pace in Tainan.

Multiple room types meeting the needs of different groups of guests Luxurious facilities and fine cuisine

Just Sleep Tainan Ten-Drum ( 捷絲旅台南十鼓館 ) Tel: (06) 266-2528 Add: No. 300, Sec. 2, Wenhua Rd., Rende District, Tainan City ( 台南市仁德區文華路二段 300 號 ) Website: www.justsleep.com.tw/ten-drum/en/