Indigenous Experiences Indigenous Art Indigenous Culture in the Cities HUALIEN & TAITUNG Websiteissuu No.SEP1132022&OCT LOCAL STAY HOMESTAYS IN HUALIEN’S SHOUFENG TOWNSHIP EXPERT TALK WALKING TOURS GOOD FOOD BARS IN TAIPEI
TAIWANEVERYTHING Find Travel in Taiwan articles published in earlier issues, complemented with colorful images, Google maps, and links to our social media sites, including Youtube, Face book, and Instagram, and informative sites of other blog gers in Taiwan. EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT TRAVELING IN TAIWAN! Check out TAIWANEVERYTHING before you plan your next trip to Taiwan! taiwaneverything.cc FacebookYoutubeWebsite
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For a complete change of pace, dive into our Little Things and Good Food files where we indulge lovers of the night surveying fast-paced, innovative Taipei, a city that never sleeps. The former file recommends great nighttime city-view spots and up-late bookstore, café, shop, and even shrimp fishing options. The latter presents a number of chic bars where creative cocktails are crafted, some made with Taiwan tea.
Moving on elsewhere, in this issue’s Expert Talk you’ll learn all about the guided walking tours crafted by Walk in Taiwan , a Taipei-based tour organizer, which deliver in-depth insights into an ever-widening selection of Taiwan’s unique communities. Starting in Taipei, its growing menu is now blanketing the island.
Publisher's Note
Rafting on the Mawuku River (photo by Ray Chang)
TAIWAN TOURISM BUREAU MOTC, R.O.C. Dear Traveler,
Hualien/Taitung article is focused on indigenous experiences. You’ll visit a mountain skills base; a community initiative that introduces the local marine environment; a venture that enables you to navigate traditional bamboo rafts through a gorge, try cast-net fishing, and savor native foods; and an enterprise that provides tours of its local village, ocean beach, and farm operation and offers DIY craft workshops.
Welcome to the dawn of the cooling Taiwan autumn. Enjoy!
ON THE FOLLOWCOVERUS @tourtaiwan@taiwan@taiwanbesttrip
In this issue of Travel in Taiwan, we’re spending a good deal of time in what is a favorite region among international travelers and foreigners living in Taiwan. The East Coast area, sheltered from the rest of island Taiwan by the thick central mountains, is a pristine place affectionately dubbed “Taiwan’s backyard garden” – a getaway destination of low population, slow and easy living, and long, open roads. Our special focus is on the cultures of the numerous native peoples whose homelands are within today’s Hualien and Taitung Ourcounties.key
The next article in our Hualien/Taitung quartet looks at indigenous art. Delve into the East Coast’s indigenous arts scene by visiting a crafts studio and workshop, retail crafts shop that hosts DIY classes, and the popular annual summertime Taiwan East Coast Land Arts Festival, including its ocean-side Moonlight Sea Concerts. In our third file the topic is indigenous culture in the cities, looking at the east’s only two cities, which have heavy indigenous populations. Capping our meandering eastern peregrination is a file on recommended premium homestays and premier tourist attractions in Hualien County’s Shoufeng Township.
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PUBLISHER'S01 NOTE TRAVEL06 NEWS – HAPPENING IN TAIWAN NOW TAIWAN04 TOURISM CULTURE08EVENTS & ART – CONCERTS, EXHIBITIONS,THEATER,FESTIVALS, SHOWS FEATURE 10 HUALIEN / TAITUNG SEEKING HARMONY WITH NATURE Getting to Know the Indigenous People Living on the East Coast 22 HUALIEN / TAITUNG TRIBAL MESSAGES The Indigenous Art Scene on the East Coast 26 HUALIEN / TAITUNG FIRST IMPRESSIONS Learning about Indigenous Culture in Hualien and Taitung Cities 38 GOOD FOOD / TAIPEI BARS DRINKING IN STYLE A Meet-up with Taipei Mixologists 32 HUALIEN / LOCAL STAY VALLEY VIEWS Two Truly Remarkable Places to Stay in Shoufeng Township 46 EXPERT TALK / WALKING TOURS LET’S TAKE A WALK Tours that Open a Window onto the Real Taiwan 44 LITTLE THINGS / NIGHTTIME FUN SHE NEVER SLEEPS Taipei City Gives Night Owls a Lot to Hoot About CONTENTS SEP/OCT2022 10
For more than 300 years, producing salt from seawater was an important industry in the southwest of Taiwan. The industry ceased to exist in 2002 after Taiwan’s WTO entry, but the Jingzaijiao Tile-paved Salt Fields in Tainan City’s Beimen District remain in place as a popular tourist attraction. In 2004, the annual Kungshen Wangye’s Salt for Peace Festival was held for the first time by the Southwest Coast National Scenic Area Administration to celebrate the old industry and to highlight the region’s traditional beliefs and rituals related to salt. Activities take place at the salt fields and at the Nankunshen Daitian Temple (about 5km away), including a procession between the two places, captivating dragon dances, and the giveaway of thousands of auspicious sachets filled with salt. swcoast-nsa.travel (Southwest Coast NSA)
Taipei’s version of the annual nighttime arts festival Nuit Blanche was first staged in 2016 after the city government was invited to host a local edition of the event by the Bureau Français de Taipei, which represents France’s interests in Taiwan. Since the first-ever Nuit Blanche (2001 in Paris, France), similar events have been organized in well over 100 cities around the world. It’s a fun celebration of the arts, jampacked with exciting street theater, music and dance performances, sophisticated light and laser shows, light-art sculptures, and much interaction between performers and revelers, ensuring that everyone has a great time. english.culture.gov.taipei (Taipei City Department of Cultural Affairs)
NOVEMBERTAITUNG COUNTY5
KAOHSIUNG ZUOYING WANNIAN FOLKLORE FESTIVAL 高雄左營萬年季
NUIT BLANCHE TAIPEI 臺北白晝之夜
OCTOBER 1~31KINMEN COUNTY4 ART TAIPEI 台北國際藝術博覽會
4 TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022 TAIWAN TOURISM EVENTS October-November
Art Taipei is an important annual event for art lovers in East Asia. Held for the first time in 1992, the fair is organized by Taiwan’s Ministry of Culture and the Taiwan Art Gallery Association. In 2021, works from 124 galleries in nine countries and regions (92 from Taiwan), including outstanding examples of contemporary art, were presented to professional buyers and the general public. Each year the event also includes themed exhibitions, art salons, lectures, and guided tours. A new feature in 2021 was an exhibition about the restoration of artwork. art-taipei.com (official website)
Exciting Events and Happenings
OCTOBER 21~24TAIPEI CITY2 TAIWAN OPEN OF SURFING 臺灣國際衝浪公開賽 In recent years, the tiny fishing harbor at Jinzun in Taitung County has become an international traveler hotspot. It’s not the harbor itself that draws – mostly young – people from around the world, but the pebble beach and sea area just to the north of it, where surfers find perfect conditions for riding the waves. In autumn and winter, ideal surfing swells are created outside the harbor’s breakwater thanks to the northeast monsoon. The Taiwan Open of Surfing is held at Jinzun each year, with highly talented surfers showing off their wave-riding skills. www.taiwanopenofsurfing.org (official website)
OCTOBER 1 & 2TAIPEI CITY1 KINMEN TUNNEL MUSIC FESTIVAL 金門坑道音樂節 The setting of this music event and its presentation are truly unique. The venue is the Zhaishan Tunnel, located near the southernmost tip of Kinmen Island. Carved out of granite gneiss over a period of five years in the 1960s, the 100-meter-long tunnel served as a shelter for up to 42 navy vessels at a time. Now preserved as a heritage site, the tunnel is visited by many a tourist exploring Kinmen. During the music festival classical music is performed by musicians on a raft that slowly makes its way through the tunnel, with the audience (200 for each performance) lining up along the tunnel wall. The curved tunnel ceiling creates an unforgettable acoustic effect. kinmen.travel (Kinmen Travel)
AUTUMNAWESOME
The modern Wannian Folklore Festival dates from 2001, when the Kaohsiung City Government’s Civil Affairs Bureau began coordinating and sponsoring traditional events in Zuoying District. Since 2005 the Taiwan Tourism Bureau has been lending a hand, and the festival has grown steadily in popularity. The star of the event is the Great Wannian Fire Lion, a cute yet dignified effigy far larger than a real lion. This lion tours temples in the district for eight days, accompanied by lion dancers, drum and gong musicians, and constant firecracker explosions beneath and around it. On the final day the lion arrives at Lotus Pond, a popular Kaohsiung attraction, where it is set ablaze in spectacular fashion. The festival allows you to experience Taiwan folk religion up close, and to witness the people of Kaohsiung’s passion for their customs and traditions. wannian.kcg.gov.tw (festival website; Chinese); khh.travel (Kaohsiung Travel)
NOVEMBERTAINAN CITY3
KUNGSHEN WANGYE'S SALT FOR PEACE FESTIVAL 鯤鯓王平安鹽祭
Photo courtesy of Dept. of Cult. Affairs, Taipei City
OCTOBERKAOHSIUNG CITY6
5TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022 Taiwan Tourism Events Calendar Website 1 2 6 3 5 4 Photo courtesy of Taiwan Art Gallery Assn. Photo courtesy of Southwest Coast NSA Admin. Photo courtesy of Taitung County Govt. Photo courtesy of Civil Aff. Bureau, Kaohsiung City Govt. Photo courtesy of Kinmen Nat. Park HQ.
Photo courtesy of ACC Travel Service
SandiaolingBicycling
Tourist Info
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Air TaitungTravel
The autumn season has arrived, widely regarded as the time of year in Taiwan with the best weather, not too hot or chilly and not rainy either. Perfect for enjoying the great outdoors!
If self-help travel is what you plan to do in Taiwan, make sure you know about the visitor centers in the areas you plan to explore. In Taiwan these centers, administered by the central Taiwan Tourism Bureau or local tourism units, often provide a wealth of information in Chinese, English, Japanese, and sometimes other foreign languages as well. If you have specific questions, the staff is usually knowledgeable and helpful. Soon to join the network of visitor centers around Taiwan will be a new one for Chiayi City, in the south. The center, slated to open in October this year, is located near the city’s baseball stadium beside the entrance to Kano Park. www.tbocc.gov.tw (Chiayi City Tourism Bureau) When taking a train from Taipei to the Northeast Coast, make sure to look out the window (left-hand side) after passing Houtong Railway Station so you don’t miss the amazing scenery of the Keelung River valley. The riverbed directly below is strewn with huge boulders, and verdant mountainsides close in on both sides. If you take a local train, you can get off at tiny Sandiaoling Railway Station, well-known by hikers as the starting point of the Sandiaoling Waterfall Trail. On the opposite side of the river from the station is another attraction, the new Sandiaoling Tunnel Bikeway (3.19km), which takes you through two old railway tunnels and connects to the village of Mudan, located in an adjoining valley. Crossing the river on the railway bridge near the Sandiaoling station is not permitted, but you can start your bike ride at Houtong and follow the road on the eastern bank of the river to reach the tunnels. newtaipei.travel/en (New Taipei City)
Photo courtesy of Public Works Dept., New Taipei City Govt. Photo courtesy of Chiayi City Tourism Bureau
from Above Taitung County is one of the most beautiful areas of Taiwan, and deserves to be seen from all sorts of angles. Taking to the skies gives you a whole new perspective of the land and the ocean to its east. Apart from taking a hot-air balloon flight during the annual Taiwan International Balloon Festival, you can now also go on 30-min. small-aircraft flights that take in the East Rift Valley, the Pacific coast, and Green Island. The planes, operated by Apex Flight Academy, seat nine passengers and reach heights of up to 1,000 meters. You can choose from three different routes, focusing on the valley, the coast, and the island respectively. The experience sets you back NT$9,900 (NT$85,000 for chartering an entire plane); tours are available Thursday~Sunday. apexskytour.funx.tw (Chinese)
New Visitor Center in Chiayi City
6 TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022 TRAVEL NEWS HAPPENING in TAIWAN Now
Tainan
With Taichung’s young metro system (TMRT) currently only operating one line, visitors who want to explore the city’s central districts using public transport have to take the bus. Luckily, a new Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Bus line, the Taichung Fashion City Route, was introduced earlier this year, enabling convenient visits to a large number of tourist attractions, including the old Taichung Railway Station, Taichung Prefectural Hall, Dadun Cultural Center, National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts, Shenji New Village, Calligraphy Greenway, National Museum of Natural Science, Taichung Park, and Empire Sugar Factory. www.taiwantrip.com.tw
1. Formosa Yacht Resort | new hotel with yacht marina at Tainan’s Anping Harbor; www.formosayacht.com.tw
you: Chimei
tickets
台灣 好行 Photo courtesy of Tainan
2. Grand Banyan Hotel new hotel located in central Tainan, close to the main railway station; www.grandbanyanhotel.com
Ticket
7TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
Longtian
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If intend to visit museums/cultural parks in the city of Tainan, note that you can now purchase a combo ticket, the Tainan Museum PASS 2022 (priced NT$399), which gives NationalMuseumMuseum of Taiwan History Astronomical Education Area Tree Valley Life Science Museum Discount on for: Culture Heritage Area Zuojhen Fossil Park Tainan Waterworks Museum Jiao She Cultural Park Manufacturing Eco-Museum admission to: City Govt.
TaichungTransportationFashion City Route
SHUTER Enterprise, a Taiwan manufacturer of office and industrial storage solutions, has recently built the Babbuza Dreamfactory, a truly remarkable tourist factory at the center of which is a 10-story-high (30.8m) tree structure with a spiraling walkway (386m long) around it.
Located in an industrial area west of central Nantou City, the facility was constructed as a “box of light,” with transparent walls letting sunlight in during the daytime and artificial light out during nighttime.
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Tainan
Shuei
Two-time
New Tainan Hotels Tourist BabbuzaFactoryDreamfactory
Visitors seeking a bit of a thrill can do a 30m bungee jump inside the “tree” or tackle a 20m climbing wall. The tourist factory also has shop, dining, and cultural-performance areas. The grand opening is scheduled for December 23 this year. www.babbuza.com
Furniture
Photos courtesy of SHUTER Photos courtesy of hotels
福爾摩沙遊艇酒店
| 台南禧榕軒大飯店
CulturalNineMuseumsMuseums/ParksOne
To the north of the town of Puli in central Taiwan’s Nantou County is the imposing Chung Tai Chan Monastery. Part of its sprawling complex is the Chung Tai World Museum, which has as stated its goal the promotion of “Buddhism’s positive and wholesome influence on spiritual growth through Buddhist art, and to preserve Buddhism’s history and culture through research and educational work.” If you are interested in Buddhism and Buddhist art, visiting this monastery and museum is highly recommended.
8 TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022 CULTURE & ART Concerts, Theater, Exhibitions, Festivals, Shows
The Transplant and Enrichment exhibition is focused on artists’ interpretation of inner feelings through depictions of plants, including works of calligraphy and paintings. www.ctwm.org.tw
Since the earliest days of mankind, amber, which is fossilized tree resin, has been treasured as a gemstone for its smoothness and color. Used in jewelry and for decorative objects, amber is often collected as a curio item as well when containing tiny creatures such as insects or plant parts. This exhibition presents visitors with a comprehensive overview of amber, introducing you to the different types there are, locations where it has been found around the world, marvelous pieces of artwork, and pieces with insects trapped inside. www.nmns.edu.tw Until February 19, 2023 National Museum of Natural Science ( Taichung City )
AMBER – A MOMENT BURIED EN RESIN 那一刻—琥珀的記憶特展 Exhibition
October 27-30 National Kaohsiung Center for the Arts
G. VERDI – DON CARLO 威爾第歌劇《唐卡洛》
Culture
Weiwuying ( Kaohsiung City ) Until April 9, 2023 Chung Tai World Museum ( Nantou County ) Italian composer Giuseppe Verdi's (1813~1901) Don Carlo is the longest, most complex, deepest, and arguably greatest of his operas. It is a story of love and devotion conflicting with political and religious upheaval. After falling in love with each other, French princess Elisabeth de Valois and Spanish prince Don Carlo have to face the fact she has been promised as bride to King Philippe, the father of Carlo, and she must fulfill her duty to keep the peace. The plot involves intense palace infighting and intrigue. In addition to parent-child friction, amorous entanglements, and political conflicts, this work also explores the struggle between kingship and religious authority. www.npac-weiwuying.org
Opera Editor's CHOICE
Transplant and Enrichment: Artistic Expression through Botanical Imagery
擢蒔增華: 館藏植物意象書畫特展
Exhibition
CENTURY CONTEMPORARY DANCE COMPANY: TIME TRAVELER 世紀當代舞團: 日者 Dance
www.facebook.com/ccdctw.fan (Century Contemporary Dance Company)
September 30~October 1 Wellspring Theater (Taipei City)
For this exhibition, 27 creators and designers from Taiwan and Japan have visualized the “shape of hope” using origami cranes and moon blocks for inspiration. In Japanese culture cranes symbolize happiness, and moon blocks ( jiaobei ) are wooden divination tools used by the faithful in Taiwan when asking deities important questions. The exhibition also features a graffiti wall where visitors have the chance to create their own versions of the shape of hope.
npac-ntch.org LOVE SONG: RHYME FOR YOU— REVIVAL 我為你押韻──情歌 Revival Theater September 23~25 National Theater ( Taipei City ) Editor's CHOICE
Taipei theater troupe Yang Ensemble’s Love Song: Rhyme for You is a play about love that incorporates nearly one hundred love songs (including many hits by top local performers from the last 20 years) to portray the love affairs of ordinary people. First performed in 2011, it has been a great success (more than 100 shows) in Taiwan as well as in mainland China, where a local version was created. This is a refreshingly humorous play with romantic sparkles, witty language, and live music.
9TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
pier2.org SHAPE OF HOPE A WISH HOPE—希望的形狀 Exhibition Until October 30 The Pier-2 Art Center ( Kaohsiung City )
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THE
Established in 2000, local dance ensemble Century Contemporary Dance Company is known for searching around the world for inspiration and new ways of expression in modern dance. Time Traveler is an international co-production featuring Taiwanese performers and dancer Luluk Ari Prasetya from Indonesia. The performance is based on traditional ceremonial dance and focuses on spontaneous movements of the body.
The once remote East Coast is one of Taiwan’s last great tribal strongholds. Traveling here, it’s hard to miss the myriad roadside indigenous totems, murals, arches, and statues, but to get any real understanding of tribal Taiwan you need to delve a little deeper.
TEXT SIMON FOSTER PHOTOS RAY CHANG, VISION HUALIEN-TAITUNG Indigenous Experiences 10 TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
WITHHARMONYSEEKINGNATURE
Getting to Know the Indigenous People Living on the East Coast
HUALIEN-TAITUNG Indigenous Experiences 11TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
For this article, we drove to Hualien County’s Fengbin Township to visit a Bunun mountain skills base and a community initiative that introduces the marine environment from the Makotaay perspective, before moving south to Taitung County’s Marongarong and A’tolan communities. Some English is spoken at these locations, but Chinese is the primary language of instruction, so having a Chinese speaker in your group is advised.
Xinshe rice fields
Before coming to Taiwan in 2003, I was completely unaware of the island’s indigenous tribes and their distinctive cultures. At that time 12 indigenous groups were officially recognized (today 16), and whilst there were glimpses into this “other” Taiwan, most indigenous-tourism experiences were focused on stereotypes of brightly colored traditional costumes, singing and dancing, and festivals. Fortunately in 2022, indigenous culture in eastern Taiwan is far more accessible, often driven by younger tribal members keen to preserve their people’s way of life and share the knowledge passed down by their ancestors with the outside world.
HUALIEN-TAITUNG Indigenous Experiences
In spite of its name, “High Mountain Forest Base” is just a short steep drive from the sparkling Pacific Ocean in Hualien County, nestled in a verdant mountainside 150 meters above sea level. Whilst the Bunun people, Taiwan’s fourth-largest indigenous group, traditionally inhabited the high mountains, these days there are communities of the tribe all over the island, with members often maintaining their mountain skills. At the well-organized High Mountain Forest Base these skills are enthusiastically shown to visitors. About two kilometers south of beautiful Jiqi Beach on coastal Highway 11, a small side road quickly brought us up to the Forest Base, where we were greeted by the co-founder, Tiang Manququ, and led to a magical natural auditorium beneath a giant banyan tree. A cool breeze wafted the smoke from a firepit, and after a few moments the echoing boom of a traditional wooden drum drew our attention. The Bunun are renowned for their polyphonic singing, and Tiang soon broke into a traditional song, “High-Mountain Forest Base” "High-Mountain Forest Base" sign
TiangFirepitManququ singing
alternating between melodic harmony and heartfelt calls into the wild. Gradually we settled into the environment and began to pick out the surrounding detail, the most striking element of which was a small cave beneath the banyan tree. This cave was once home to Tiang’s grandfather, who moved here after being displaced from the high mountains in central Taiwan. Damaged by a large earthquake in the 1950s, the cave was abandoned and forgotten for a while, but is now the centerpiece of the Forest Base. A rifle, bow, and quiver of arrows resting against a stone wall nearby served as a reminder that hunting remains a fundamental part of Bunun life.
13TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
ENTERING A DIFFERENT WORLD Announcing the arrival of guests to the forest spirits is an important part of the guided nature and indigenous culture experience tour Guide Tiang Manququ shooting his rifle
Lemmon's Marigold
From the cool of the shaded banyan tree we were guided into the forest on the Forest Base’s “Seeking Fun” experience. Tiang knows so much about the forest that there is no fixed itinerary for this two- to three-hour adventure, and each group’s experience is different, guided by the flora and fauna in season and the interests and abilities of the guests. We followed a once secret tribal path that runs high above a hidden valley and then snakes its way to the Pacific, which allowed safe passage to the coast during the Japanese occupation period (18951945). Along the way Tiang pointed out the local wildlife, and at one point stopped to make a variety of animal calls using a narrow length of bamboo –imitating deer and monkeys with this simple device. Keen to attune us to the forest and to simulate night hunting, Tiang suggested that we put our hands on the shoulders of the person in front, close our eyes, and continue along the path. What sounded like a bad idea ended up being one of the highlights of the walk. The absence of sight gave much more awareness to other senses – heightening our sense of the gradient and texture of the ground, and the individual sounds and smells of the forest – and it also quickly built a bond amongst the group, as we needed to trust each other. Our eyes were probably only closed for a couple of minutes, but time slowed down and it felt more like 10 minutes! Eyes wide open again, we continued downhill on the path through dense greenery, with occasional tantalizing glimpses of the ocean. We reached a huge rocky outcrop and climbed a ladder to be greeted by a magnificent view north along the jungled coastline – this was one of Tiang’s grandfather’s favorite places to spend time. Exhilarated, we made our way back to the Forest Base’s cool, open-sided longhouse, where we were offered a refreshing glass of donggua cha (winter melon tea) tea flavored with aromatic Lemmon’s Marigold, said to soothe stomach irritation with its anti-inflammatory and analgesicWhilstproperties.werelaxed, Tiang showed us some traditional Bunun knives – short, intricate, and very sharp, these tools are essential to Bunun life. They are used to cut up hunted animals brought home, and are symbols of sharing. Creating your own knife is a Bunun rite of passage to adulthood, and visitors can learn to make their own. You can also learn tree-climbing skills (“Seeking Eagle Adventure” experience) and try your hand at another Bunun hunting specialty, archery, but note that both of these half-day activities require a minimum of six guests. For maximum immersion, an overnight stay is recommended. The forest comes alive at night, and the more time you spend here the more you will learn, plus it brings the chance to sample a Breathtaking coastal view from a secluded spot Calling wildlife with a simple bamboo flute
HUALIEN-TAITUNG Indigenous Experiences 14 TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
“ HIGH-MOUNTAIN FOREST BASE ” ( 高山森林基地 ) (0933) 991-926 No. 2, Neighborhood 1, Gaoshan, Jiqi Village, Fengbin Township, Hualien County ( 花蓮縣豐濱鄉磯崎村高山一鄰 2 號 ) www.gs-forest.comwww.facebook.com/g7tribe(Chinese) tribal barbecue! The Forest Base has a good range of camping pitches, the cheapest of which are on the terraces below the longhouse, but there are also some lovely shaded spots on the periphery. There are also showers and toilets. Tents and other camping equipment can be rented, or you can bring your own. Reservation in advance is required for all activities and camping, and can be completed online. Traditional Bunun knives 15TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
ECOLOGY AND WATER FUN Combine an educational tour of Shitiping with exciting water activities, such as kayaking and snorkeling Tidal zone at Shitiping Shitiping campsite
A short drive south of the High Mountain Forest Base, the coastal highway passes through the Shitiping area, home to possibly the most scenic of Taiwan’s many fishing harbors and a mecca for seafood lovers and marine enthusiasts alike. The views from the road looking north are spellbinding in almost any weather, the rustic charm of the busy little harbor dwarfed by the grandeur of the lush green mountains that cascade down to the Pacific.
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A few hundred meters south of the harbor, we reached Shitiping Scenic Recreation Area proper, basking resplendently in the afternoon sun. Shitiping (“Stone Step Plain”), a kilometer-long stretch of eroded volcanic headland features bizarre rock outcrops, potholes, and blowholes. In the ocean itself, coral and marine life abound. The different areas are all connected by wooden boardwalks and paths, making it a great family-outing destination, and living just forty-five minutes further south, I often come here with the kids to swim, snorkel, and clamber on the rocks. This visit was a little different, in that we were introduced to the environment by its traditional custodians, the Makotaay, a sub-group of the Amis tribe living north of the Xiuguluan River. Taiwan’s biggest tribe by population, numbering over 200,000, the Amis live predominantly along the East Coast and in the East Rift Valley, and are renowned for their knowledge of the ocean and fishing skills. On arrival, our guide explained that Idang is a community initiative that also instructs students from the local Gangkou Elementary School. Through these activities, the kids are Idang
It’s worth stopping at Shitiping even if you only have an hour or two, but most of Idang’s programs last two to four hours. If you want to stay overnight, there are plenty of good accommodation options within the scenic recreation area, including a stunningly situated campsite featuring covered wooden platforms with perfect ocean views. Shitiping can be visited year-round, with the scenery sometimes at its most dramatic on stormy winter days, but to experience the world beneath the waves, coming in summer is recommended. From May to October the crew at Idang introduces outsiders to this pristine marine environment, offering a range of different options to explore the ocean and the intertidal zone, from nature talks through to diving, snorkeling, standup-paddleboarding, and kayaking.
IDANG ( 依浪 ) (03) Fengbin878-1273Township, Hualien County ( 花蓮縣豐濱鄉靜浦村 8 鄰 301 號 ) CoralKayakingidang.rezio.shop/zh-TWwww.facebook.com/idangexplore(Chinese)reefs Cliff jumping Photos on this page courtesy of Idang HUALIEN-TAITUNG Indigenous Experiences 17TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
given context and cultural connection to their ancestors and the local environment, and in doing so Makotaay and Amis culture is protected for future generations.
Kayaking at sunrise is one of Idang’s most popular experiences, and affords paddlers the opportunity to see this otherworldly scenery in the soft light of morning before enjoying a hearty breakfast on the beach. But to really get up close and personal with the ocean, diving or snorkeling is recommended – as well as the brightly colored reef and tropical fish, you may see sea urchins, sea snakes, and even giant clams. For those with less time or confidence in the water, coming at low tide reveals the otherwise hidden intertidal zone, a hotchpotch seascape of trenches, wave-cut platforms, potholes, and rock pools, alive with all manner of marine creatures – brittle stars, crabs, shrimps, sea cucumbers, and shellfish to name but a few. Climbing to the top of the 17-meter-high cuesta is also a must, and presents unparalleled views north along this rugged stretch of Beyondcoastline.learning about the marine environment and acquiring new skills, Idang’s guests will also gain insight into the Amis relationship with this ecosystem, and what we can all do to help protect it. For the Amis, the ocean is a bountiful resource to be nurtured, not exploited – they take only what they need, and they certainly don’t put trash into what they call their “refrigerator”!
After this trip, on the drive home I reflected that whilst I’ve been to Shitiping many times I will remember this visit in particular, as it cemented my understanding of the bond between this breathtaking landscape and the people who call it home, protect it, and pass on their knowledge to future generations, the Makotaay. In a world full of creature comforts, advanced technology, and modern schooling it feels like we probably still have a lot to learn from the simple, sustainable ways of indigenous communities around the globe!
PADDLING UP THE MAWUKU
MarongarongDonghe/ Buluo
For the Marongarong, historically the river was a source of food and precious stones, and was plied with a distinctive mode of transport. Crafting a bamboo raft and safely navigating it along the Mawuku rapids was a coming-of-age event. Today the river is popular with SUPers and kayakers, but for more of a traditional experience you can still paddle a bamboo raft up the magnificent gorge. Slowly moving along the river towards the soaring mountains, as water buffalo wallow at the water’s edge, a cluster of tribal huts appear perched on a hillside behind a coconut grove close to the coastal highway, and it’s easy to imagine you’re in Tahiti (or Taiwan a few hundred years ago).
The huge white boulders and the greenish water give the river a unique appearance
An hour’s drive south of Shitiping, Donghe village is Marongarong territory, a sub-group of the Amis. They have thrived for centuries on the bounty of resources presented by a river estuary, the mountains, and the ocean. “Marongarong” means “fast-flowing river,” pertaining to the Mawuku, which carves its way through the Coastal Mountain Range, occasionally churning up gemstones and, ever so gradually, propelling house-sized boulders in the river’s gorge down towards the Pacific.
DONGHE/MARONGARONG BULUO ( 東河 / 瑪洛阿瀧部落 ) Traditional-stylemarogarog.tacocity.com.twwww.facebook.com/MarongarongTribe0963-270-108(Chinese)tribalhouses Pavilion with river views HUALIEN-TAITUNG Indigenous Experiences 19TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
To get to the Tribal House, take the first left once you’ve crossed the big redpainted highway bridge from the north and then follow the road down towards the coast – after a few hundred meters you’ll see the distinctive huts on your left.
Continuing further downhill brings you to a car park for the beach and river mouth. The Marongarong Tribal House suspended operations after the Covid pandemic hit, but is set to reopen again at the end of summer 2022 – reservations are essential for all activities. However, even if it’s not open or you’re pushed for time, it’s worth a drive down to this spot to watch the surfers, or just to wander along the beach or up the riverside path.
These bamboo-sided thatch huts on the hillside are all part of the Marongarong Tribal House, which was constructed using traditional techniques by junior tribe members, overseen by elders. It’s a beautiful and soothing space where tribal members pass on their knowledge to younger generations and visitors. As well as arranging bamboo rafting and cast-net fishing trips, the Marongarong teach traditional crafts, and you can even stay overnight here in surprisingly comfortable lodgings. In the evening there is local cuisine, including sea urchin, jellyfish, and seasonal wild vegetables, and then stories and music around a bonfire.
Just 15km south of Donghe village, Dulan village is the realm of the A’tolan (also spelled E’tolan), the biggest Amis sub-group on the southeast coast. With its perfect tropical coastline, boulder-strewn foothills (“A’tolan” means “pile of stones”) and lush green mountains, Dulan has a magic of its own and has been attracting artists and surfers for decades. Based in a modern building on a Dulan side street, A’tolan Style is a recently opened venture offering visitors the chance to see a genuine slice of A’tolan life, which in some ways continues as it has done for centuries, despite the tourism boom of recent decades. Today, outsiders outnumber the A’tolan in Dulan, and it would be very easy to come here, enjoy the beaches and surf, stay in a homestay (B&B), and dine at one of the numerous international restaurants without experiencing any of the village’s tribal lifestyle. Young, vibrant, and proud of their culture, the folks at A’tolan Style are trying to change this. As well as guided tours of the village, beach, and their farm, A’tolan Style also runs DIY craft workshops and sells local products.
A’tolan DULAN DISCOVERIES If you
After a short introduction, we set out for a guided wander around Dulan. Having spent plenty of time in the village, I wasn’t sure if there would be much new to see, but accompanied by three A’tolan lads, the streets took on new meaning, from the stories behind the murals outside Dulan Elementary School to seemingly every plant we want to learn more about the village of Dulan, meet the friendly guides of A'tolan Style Elementary
School A'tolan Visitor Center Map of Dulan Mural depicting an Amis fisherman HUALIEN-TAITUNG Indigenous Experiences 20 TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
Dulan
A’ TOLAN STYLE ( 都蘭國 ) (089) 531-864 No. 224, Dulan, Donghe Township, Taitung County ( 台東縣東河鄉都蘭村 224 號 ) www.atolan-style.comwww.facebook.com/atolan.malakapahay(Chinese) ENGLISH AND CHINESE Amis tribe 阿美族 A' tolan 阿都蘭 Bunun tribe 布農族 Dulan Elementary School 都蘭國小 Coastal Mountain Range 海岸山脈 donggua cha 冬瓜茶 East Rift Valley 花東縱谷 Fengbin 豐濱 Gangkou Elementary School 港口國小 Jiqi Beach 磯崎海水浴場 Makotaay 港口部落 Marongarong 東河部落 Mawuku River 馬武窟溪 Shitiping 石梯坪 Tiang Manququ 小馬 Xiuguluan River 秀姑巒溪 passed on the roadsides having a purpose in A’tolan life! It was a blazing-hot day, and when we stopped at a mom-and-pop convenience shop we learned that most of the A’tolan prefer to use these shops (rather than modern chain-owned convenience stores) as they stock local produce (such as preserved meats) and operate a tab system for bills. Next was a short bumpy drive up to the A’tolan Style farm, on the site of a 1980s eucalyptus plantation, now returned to tribal management. The plantation desiccated the hillside, so part of the A’tolan solution has been to utilize the remaining trees to make eucalyptus hygiene products! In spite of the scarcity of water, the A’tolan now grow sweet potatoes, raise goats, chickens, and pigs, and keep bees. This slow, balanced, long-term approach to restoring the land to its former fertility is typical of the indigenous people of eastern Taiwan’s harmonious relationship with nature, and reinforces the importance of preserving the knowledge developed over centuries by the island’s tribes.
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Visiting the A'tolan Style farm Simple traditional utensils
Exploring the indigenous art scene in eastern Taiwan is a pleasure in itself, but is also a great way to start to decipher the region’s tribal cultures, and to gain a deeper understanding of the customs, stories, and sustainable living practices of its original inhabitants.
MessagesTribalTheIndigenousArtSceneontheEastCoast TEXT SIMON FOSTER PHOTOS RAY CHANG, VISION Tree bark lamp Paterongan Art studio HUALIEN-TAITUNG Indigenous Art 22 TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
Small workshops like Paterongan Art and Alpinia painstakingly produce beautiful handcrafted items from renewable sources. At the other end of the scale, the Taiwan East Coast Land Arts Festival features big, bold indigenousart installations along coastal Highway 11 and open-air concerts under the moonlight at the Duli Visitor Center.
When driving along coast-side Highway 11 the eye is naturally drawn to the endless ocean, and so it’s easy to miss Paterongan Art, a small crafts studio and workshop on the mountain side of the road. Comprised of a husband and wife team, Paterongan Art produces a broad selection of handicrafts, all made using sustainable materials sourced locally. Chen Shuyan is a Han Chinese fiber artist, whilst her husband, Duwak Duyao, a member of the Kavalan tribe, crafts traditional Kavalan items. Paterongan is the name of the branch of the Kavalan tribe that lives in and around Hualien County’s Xinshe village, and means “to anchor and pull a boat ashore” – a fundamental part of indigenous life here.
Paterongan Art
Before TVs, computers, smartphones, and the Internet, the traditional arts of painting, carving, sculpting, storytelling, music, and dance represented more than just aesthetic pleasures. For indigenous communities around the world, the arts were a primary method of passing on information to future generations, to ensure survival, a harmonious relationship with nature, and cultural continuity.
Long isolated from the rest of the island by the vast and soaring Central Mountain Range, eastern Taiwan remains a bastion of indigenous culture. However, with improved transport links, outside influences in this once remote region are growing by the day. These changes have the potential to either dilute or to strengthen tribal messages. Fortunately the latter seems to be the case, and as environmental and social consciousness become more mainstream globally, there is more interest than ever in eastern Taiwan’s indigenous arts scene.
www.pateronganart.comwww.facebook.com/pateronganart
Paterongan Art is a small crafts studio, right on the coastal highway, producing unique tree-bark items
Imprinted tree bark sheets Traditional fish trap-inspired lamp
ART BY THE SEA
The studio has too much in the way of artworks to absorb all in one go, but the striking split-bamboo lamps immediately stand out. Inspired by traditional fish traps and each crafted from a single piece of bamboo, these lamps are beautifully elegant and I’d love to own one! Equally as impressive are the paper mulberry paintings. The bark is first stripped from the tree, then gently beaten flat to resemble papyrus, at which point it can be painted on, or stretched around bamboo to form a lampshade. Next to the studio, the workshop is a hive of activity, with rolls of dried shell ginger stems awaiting weaving, bamboo in various stages of the splitting process, and wood shavings covering the floor as testament to the hard work. None of the items for sale are cheap, but when you consider the labor and skill required to create these one-of-akind pieces, they represent value.
The studio and workshop contain items that you might imagine in your house, but to really appreciate the diversity of Paterongan Art’s talents it’s worth taking a short drive north to Xinshe village. Here the spectacle of rice terraces growing right to the edge of the Pacific with the coastal mountains as background is added to by a collection of the studio’s oversized sculptures, constructed with help from the local school using the traditional house-building materials of bamboo, cow dung, mud, rattan, and straw. The sculptures are changed once they start to deteriorate, but usually include human figures and symbolic animals such as giant crabs and life-sized water buffalo.
PATERONGAN ART ( 光織屋 )
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Items made with shell ginger stems24 TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
On a tiny alley in the heart of the city of Hualien’s shopping district, this inconspicuous little shop is packed with indigenous crafts, many of them fashioned from the alpinia plant that gives the store its name. Japanese-era cabinets display everything from bags, bottle holders, and lanterns to purses and plant pots, all woven from alpinia stems. With over 200 different varieties, the alpinia genus is part of the ginger family. The most commonly used species, alpinia zerumbet, is also known as shell ginger, which as mentioned Paterongan Art also uses. This beautiful plant grows abundantly on the East Coast, making it perfect for creating sustainable products. My family has a shell ginger plant in our garden, and whilst I’ve often admired its hanging clusters of white flowers tinged with yellow and pink, I thought it was False Cardamom (another member of the family), and had no idea that it was used to make much of the indigenous-style woven material prevalent on the East Coast! Before any weaving can begin though, the plant stems need to be harvested and separated into their different layers and then dried and flattened. You can find out more about this process and even learn to weave in DIY classes run by Alpinia’s friendly owners.
月桃戲
Alpinia ALPINIA ( ) No.0919-187-6842,Lane159, Bo'ai St., Hualien City
Alpiniawww.facebook.com/alpinia.play)shopinHualienCity
( 花蓮市博愛街 159 巷 2 號
Artist at work
TAIWAN EAST COAST LAND ARTS FESTIVAL ( 東海岸大地藝術節 ) www.teclandart.twwww.facebook.com/TECLandArtsFestival ENGLISH AND CHINESE alpinia zerumbet 月桃 Central Mountain Range 中央山脈 Chen Shu-yan 陳淑燕 Dulan Sugar Factory 都蘭糖廠 Duli Visitor Center 都歷遊客中心 Duwak Duyao 杜瓦克‧都耀 Green Island 綠島 "Island of Mountains, Sea of Islands" 群山之島 眾島之洋 Jinzun Beach 金樽海灘 Kavalan tribe 噶瑪蘭族 Moonlit Sea Music Festival 月光•海音樂會 paper mulberry 構樹 Wu Shun-lu 吳淑倫 Xinshe 新社 MOON AND MUSIC Listening to live music outdoors while watching the full moon rise above the ocean is an unforgettable experience Moonlight Sea Concert Installation art Photos on this page courtesy of East Coast NSA admin. HUALIEN-TAITUNG Indigenous Art 25TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
Taiwan East Coast Land Arts Festival
Living on the East Coast, I’ve become almost blasé about the stunning art and vibrant live music performances that make up the government-sponsored Taiwan East Coast Land Arts Festival (TECLAF), but I was interested to know about its origins and cultural significance. I had the opportunity to chat with Wu Shu-lun, TECLAF’s Project Head, to learn more. She explained that the roots of the modern festival can be traced to a small group of indigenous, Han Chinese, and international artists who gathered at Jinzun Beach in Taitung County in 2002. They relocated to the disused Dulan Sugar Factory, a little further south along the coast, where a collective of artists was already in residence, and this community has since received island-wide and international acclaim, placing the East Coast arts scene firmly on the map. Fast forward to 2022, and there are now large-scale installations at numerous locations in Hualien and Taitung counties, even including one work on offshore Green Island. All artworks are created from renewable or recycled materials and are set against beautiful scenery, highlighting the fact that manmade creations can complement rather than conflict with nature. Each year the festival explores a new theme, drawing on the beauty of the environment and the creativity of indigenous people. The theme for 2022, “Island of Mountains, Sea of Islands,” focuses on the connections between indigenous groups across the Pacific, rather than the distance between them. During the summer there are also several Moonlight Sea Concerts at the Duli Visitor Center, attracting thousands of visitors, who come to enjoy the sensory overload of live music to the backdrop of the Pacific glistening under the moonlight. Popular with locals and outsiders alike, there’s a distinctly bohemian feeling to these events. Indigenous performers are joined by bands from all over the island and beyond, making for an interesting variety of different sounds. An eco-friendly craft and food market also sets up, with stalls selling local and international handicrafts plus tasty snacks and drinks.
As well as being the arrival gateways to eastern Taiwan for many visitors, the cities of Hualien and Taitung are also focal points of local indigenous culture. So before you set off to explore the wilds of the east, it’s worth taking the time to experience some indigenous life in these urban settings.
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TEXT SIMON FOSTER PHOTOS RAY CHANG, VISION HUALIEN-TAITUNG
Indigenous Culture in the Cities
ImpressionsFirst
Whilst the history and nature of eastern Taiwan’s indigenous culture is heavily associated with the idyllic rural settings of the Pacific coastline and the East Rift Valley, in modern times the reality is that many younger tribal members have left the countryside for the cities in search of work. More recently, opportunities in tourism have led some of the younger generation back to the villages, but more are leaving than returning. As eastern Taiwan’s only two cities, Hualien and Taitung reflect the ethnic make-up of the region as a whole, and indigenous culture is readily accessible. We begin our journey in Hualien, visiting the Hualien Indigenous People’s Cultural Center before sampling indigenous cuisine at “Nazizi Grilled Fish” restaurant and Dongdamen Night Market. In Taitung we visit the city’s old sugar factory to make our own jewelry at the Ata Beads studio, check out the tunes at Tiehua Music Village, and then browse the stalls at the nearby weekend market and the shops of the TTStyle cultural-creative space.
Learning about Indigenous Culture in Hualien and Taitung Cities
Hualien County Indigenous Peoples Cultural Center
HUALIEN COUNTY INDIGENOUS PEOPLES CULTURAL CENTER ( 台灣原住民族文化館 ) (03) 822-2312 No. 460, Beixing Rd., Minxiang Borough, Hualien City, Hualien County ( 花蓮縣花蓮市民享里北興路 460 號 ) 8:30am-12Free noon, 1:30pm-5:30pm (closed on Mondays and public www.facebook.com/HualienCountyIndigenousPeoplesCulturalCenterholidays)
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On the northern outskirts of Hualien City, the Indigenous People’s Cultural Center is housed in a large modern building accented with tribal motifs, totems, and a mock-slate gabled roof. Most visitors come here to see the indigenous dance performances held in its large auditorium, but it’s also a good place to get a general overview of Taiwan indigenous culture. The entrance hall features carved wooden sculptures and has indigenous crafts for sale, and a side gallery displays temporary themed exhibitions – indigenous art and documentary-style photos of tribal life at the time of our recent Travel in Taiwan team visit. The huge totem pole to the left of the entrance hall commemorates the great Sakizaya tribe chieftain, Komod Pazik, and his wife Icep Kanasaw, who lost their lives to imperial Chinese soldiers in the 1878 Jaliwan Incident, after which the tribe went into hiding amongst the Amis. The Sakizaya re-emerged over 100 years later and were officially recognized as a tribe in 2013, rather than a sub-group of the Amis as previously thought. There are currently 16 officially recognized tribes in Taiwan, and there’s a map of their traditional territories
on the wall. The map has Roman script, but all of the other exhibits are only captioned in Chinese, making it essential to read Chinese or have a bilingual friend with you to get the most from your visit. This said, the vibrant performances in the center’s auditorium require no translation, and include traditional tribal dance troupes as well as edgier outfits like “Indigenous Sweety Warrior.” Disrupted by Covid for some time, performances are set to return soon. As well as scheduled shows, the meadow outside of the center is the venue for annual harvest festival and traditional sports events. Check Facebook for performance schedules and festival dates.
Entrance hall of the Indigenous Peoples Cultural Center Meadow with installation art outside the center
Located in a large public square on the eastern edge of Hualien city center, this is not your typical Taiwanese night market, and it is representative of Hualien’s ethnic diversity.
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Intersection of Zhongshan Rd. and Beibin St., Hualien City, Hualien County ( 花蓮縣花蓮市中山路北濱街 )
Dongdamen Night Market
Dongdamen Night Market in Hualien City
Dongdamen Night Market is more spacious than many crowded city night markets, and is well organized into three main streets. To experience the region’s tribal cuisine, start with a wander along “Indigenous People’s Street,” which runs north to south. Here you’ll find stalls selling bamboo rice, barbecued wild boar, and stir-fried mountain vegetables, which can be rounded off with a refreshing cup of aiyu jelly or, for something a little stronger, millet wine. Some evenings your meal will be accompanied by live indigenous music and dance. The other two streets have items more familiar to Taiwanese night market aficionados. You can find specialties from around the island, including coffin bread, green onion pancakes, oyster omelets, sausages, and stinky tofu, as well as specialties that originated in mainland China, like dumplings, noodle dishes, and barbecued corn and skewers. For a breather between courses you can try to win a prize by knocking over cans or piercing balloons with darts at one of many classic carnival-game stalls!
DONGDAMEN NIGHT MARKET ( 東大門夜市 )
Indigenous people constitute a little over two percent of Taiwan’s population, but in Hualien City this figure is closer to 10 percent. With over 400 stalls, the market is best visited at a leisurely pace. Stop to try snacks that whet your appetite and then go back for more of anything you like once you’ve done a complete circuit. Officially open from 6pm until midnight, the market is at its liveliest and most atmospheric on summer weekends, but during this period there might be long queues, and some stalls sell out in the later hours. To skip the queues, try to get there before 7pm, though some stalls might open a bit later than this.
Vegetable dish, including baby bitter melon and fern buds
"NAZIZI GRILLED FISH" RESTAURANT ( 娜滋滋烤魚 ) No.0958-361-15692-6,Heping Rd., Hualien City, Hualien County ( 花蓮縣花蓮市和平路 92 之 6 號 ) 11:30am-2pm (Wednesday until 5:30pm, Saturday until 9pm, closed on https://bit.ly/3b2tCuETuesday)
Clam Sausagedishseasoned with maqaw
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“Nazizi Grilled Fish” Restaurant
On the southeastern side of Hualien City near the coast, Nazizi Grilled Fish (no official English name) is a simple, unfussy restaurant popular for the fresh flavors of its authentic indigenous fare. Run by a friendly, gregarious Amis woman, there is no menu here, you just book for the number of people in your party and a variety of seasonal dishes will be prepared for you – vegetarians can be accommodated if the restaurant is informed in advance. Of the six dishes served for our meal, for me the standout was the signature dish, salt-baked tilapia. Served with lemon and a saltpepper mix on the side, the fish was tender, juicy, and incredibly moreish. I was also pleasantly surprised by the citrus tang of the sausage seasoned with maqaw (litsea cubeba), a peppercorn-like seed; the word comes from the Atayal language. Grown in the foothills of the high mountains, this unusual pepper is commonly used to produce essential oils for aromatherapy, but also makes a good accompaniment for meat and fish. The sausages were plated with wild boar and onions. There was also a clam dish, plus plenty of nutritious and tasty fresh greens to enjoy, including baby bitter melon, fern buds ( guomao), and okra. A healthy pumpkin and wild-vegetable soup was the last of the main dishes to arrive, followed by a sweet treat of chocolate mochi to finish off the meal. The price per person is very reasonable, just NT$350 per person, and reservations are essential if you want to try the saltbaked tilapia. Dining is arranged into 90-minute sittings, at the end of which you will likely be very full! There’s ample parking on-site, and oceanside Nanbin Park is just a short stroll away if you want to walk off some of your meal before moving on.
SALTY FISH "Nazizi Grilled Fish" restaurant's signature dish is the salt-baked tilapia, served with lemon and a salt-pepper mix on the side
TAITUNG SUGAR FACTORY CULTURAL AND CREATIVE PARK ( 台東糖廠文創園區 ) No. 191, Sec. 2, Zhongxing Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County ( 台東縣台東市中興路二段 191 號 ) 10am-10pm (Friday to Sunday until 11pm) www.facebook.com/taitungstyle
On a recent family visit, our daughters loved making the beads, and it was fascinating
ATA BEADS STUDIO ( 卡塔文化工作室 ) (089) www.facebook.com/atabeads9am-5:30pm228-107 to watch. The glass comes in rounded sticks, and the first stage was to choose the main bead color and up to three colors for the design. Next they melted the main color stick over an 800-degree flame and cut off a small amount, which was flattened and rolled around a stick to form the bead shape, with a hole for the string. The most amazing part of the process was creating the design: the kids melted the end of a narrower glass stick and then put a small dot on the main bead, and repeated the process for the other colors before using a metal implement to blend the colors and produce a unique pattern. The beads were then cooled, buffed, and returned for the girls to string onto a bracelet. They chose smaller beads to cover the rest of the string, the ends were sealed, and their qatas were ready to wear! Old sugar factory train
Like many of Taiwan’s heritage sugar factories, Taitung City’s was built during the period of Japanese occupation (18951945), but ceased operations in the 1990s in the face of an increasingly competitive global marketplace. The site then lay dormant before being repurposed as a creative arts space with galleries, workshops, cafés, and craft stores.
Located in the city’s northwest, the Taitung Sugar Factory Cultural and Creative Park can be reached by car, taxi, or bus, and it’s also on the “Mountain and Ocean Bikeway” that follows the former sugar-rail line.
Qata is the Paiwan word for decorated beads, with each design having a specific cultural meaning. Whilst you could just buy a piece of jewelry here, making your own glass bead is recommended (suitable for ages 12 and above).
Taitung Sugar Factory Cultural and Creative Park
Melting a color stick (photo by Simon Foster) Colorful beads (photo by Simon Foster) Cultural and creative park sign
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Of the many different stores in the factory complex, Ata Beads stands out for its beautiful multicolored glass qata beads.
Less than three kilometers along the bike path from the Taitung Sugar Factory, the old Taitung Railway Station area is now home to Tiehua Music Village. Another example of an old industrial space being given a new lease of life, this enterprise is housed in a former railway workers dormitory that was converted in 2010. Something of a creative hub, there’s a craft store here, and from Wednesday to Saturday you can enjoy live music performances in the evenings for the price of a drink from the bar. Although there are some acts from further afield, Tiehua Music Village mainly features local indigenous talent, including the odd big name – A-Mei and Suming have both performed here! Not all of the “local” artists are originally from Taitung though – the Night Owls are an ex-pat band formed in Taitung who play funky folk-rock-reggae music.
ENGLISH AND CHINESE aiyu 愛玉 A-Mei 張惠妹 Amis tribe 阿美族 coffin bread 棺材板 guomao 過貓 Icep Kanasaw 伊婕‧卡娜蕭 "Indigenous People's Street" 原住民一條街 "Indigenous Sweety Warrior" 原住民甜心勇士 Jaliwan Incident 加禮宛事件 Komod Pazik 古穆·巴力克 maqaw 馬告 "Mountain and Ocean Bikeway" 山海鐵馬道 Nanbin Park 南濱公園 Paiwan tribe 排灣族 Sakizaya tribe 撒奇萊雅族 Suming 舒米恩 tilapia 吳郭魚 TIEHUA MUSIC VILLAGE MARKET ( 鐵花村市集 ) No. 26, Lane 135, Xinsheng Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County ( 台東縣台東市新生路 135 巷 26 號 ) Friday 6pm-10pm; Saturday 4pm-10pm www.tiehua.com.twwww.facebook.com/tiehua(Chinese) TTSTYLE (TTSTYLE 原創館 ) No. 105, Xinsheng Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County ( 台東縣台東市新生路 105 號 ) (089) 10am-10pm227-720(Friday to Sunday until 11pm) www.facebook.com/taitungstyle TTStyle complex Crafts market Live music at Tiehua Music Village HUALIEN-TAITUNG Indigenous Culture in the Cities 31TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
On weekends a popular crafts market sets up to the south of the village, with a collection of stalls providing everything from wooden crafts to jewelry, spices, henna tattoos, and even knife massages!
Tiehua Music Village and TTStyle
Running along a pedestrian walkway between the market and Xinsheng Road, TTStyle is an eye-catching development comprised of shipping containers stacked on top of each other, sheltered under a wavy steel roof. The roof symbolizes the mountains and the sea, which dominate Taitung County’s landscapes, and the containers underneath house a variety of trendy shops and cafés. It’s worth checking out the indigenous crafts for sale here, and also stopping for a drink or a meal at Wows Pangcah Café, which is owned by two friendly Amis sisters. “Pangcah” is another word the Amis use to refer to themselves, meaning “human beings” or “people of the same descent.” The burgers and pizzas are hardly indigenous, but they’re definitely delicious!
The whole market and surrounding parkland is lined by hot-air balloon-shaped lanterns painted by children from local schools, making it an atmospheric spot for an after-dinner stroll.
Two Truly Remarkable Places to Stay in Shoufeng Township View of the East Rift Valley from Terrace Resort Hualien 32 TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
configurations: Ruby and Gold have the bedroom upstairs and a living room below, whilst in Marble and Sapphire the master bedrooms and living spaces are downstairs, with attics that have extra smaller beds above (Marble two, Sapphire one). Crystal is similarly laid out, but features a desk in the master bedroom looking straight out to lush greenery and is designed with creative types in mind. Some of the rooms also feature circular outdoor tubs in which you can soak away the stresses of life to the sound of cicadas and frogs.
Perched 300 meters above the East Rift Valley floor in the central mountains foothills on the site of an old pomelo orchard, Terrace Resort (originally named Deep Breath B&B) is a destination in its own right, and the last few kilometers of the journey there is just the start of the adventure. There’s a reason a Tesla Road Trip (www. tesla.com/zh_tw/campaign/hualien-roadtrips ) came here – seemingly endless switchbacks take you higher and higher until you reach the resort, from where the view over the patchwork of fields in the valley to the Coastal Mountain Range is spellbinding. The vista reinvents itself at nighttime, presenting twinkling lights in the valley below, the pitch black of the mountains, and then the stars above. The resort takes full advantage of its location, with a triangular wooden deck perched out over the hillside making it almost feel like you’re floating above the valley. Another deck is set into the jungled hillside and partially enclosed by a web of woodwork, making it a great place to spot wildlife, or to enjoy music and conversation around a fire in the evenings. The resort’s architecture is fresh from Europe, constructed in Dutch farmhouse style, yet somehow it doesn’t look out of place! In spite of feeling like you are truly in the wild, there is no need to forsake creature comforts here, with five comfortable air-conditioned guestrooms featuring beautifully handcrafted wooden furniture imported from Europe, chandeliers, and photos from the owner’s travels around the globe. The vaulted rooms are split over two levels, with different interior
Crystal Room double bed
Terrace Resort is the perfect place to unwind and get away from the hustle and bustle of the city, and you could happily spend your time here just marveling at the view and enjoying the first-rate food, but if you want to really embrace nature then an indigenous Bunun tribe guided hunting trip (winters only) is recommended. The resort can also arrange massages to soothe your muscles after a hike. Breakfast isn’t included in the room price, but can be arranged on the terrace, or inside if the weather is cooler. If you want to take your stay to the next level, the resort can also organize special themed evenings with top chefs delivering unique delicacies from the recently constructed professional kitchen.
TERRACE RESORT HUALIEN ( 梯田山民宿 ) No.0910-844-01810,Lane83, Sec. 2, Shanbian Rd., Fengshan Village, Shoufeng Township, Hualien County ( 花蓮縣壽豐鄉豐山村山邊路二段 83 巷 10 號 ) www.terrace-resort.comwww.facebook.com/terraceresort2016
It’s easy to drive through the splendid mountain, ocean, and rift valley scenery of Hualien County’s Shoufeng Township without realizing how much there is to see and do away from the main north-south roads. This small farming community is home to hidden treasures aplenty. Among these are some great places to stay and dine.
Terrace Resort Hualien TEXT SIMON FOSTER PHOTOS RAY CHANG, VISION European cottage-style building
HUALIEN Local Stay 33TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
When cycling along pretty, meandering Hualien County Road 193 I’ve often wondered what lies beyond the imposing entrance gate to Golden Yihe Stronghold. So it was with eager anticipation that I finally crossed the threshold and made my way uphill to this unique bed and breakfast with a Travel in Taiwan team. We arrived at the striking angular reception building and were warmly welcomed by the owners, a husband and wife team originally from the city of Taoyuan in northwest Taiwan, who moved here to escape urban living. We were shown inside to a high-ceilinged communal area which serves as the lobby and dining hall and is furnished with solid wooden tables and benches made from Taiwan hemlock. Impressive as the space was, I couldn’t keep my eyes off the view through the huge windows, and was drawn to the deck outside and the seemingly endless blue sky beyond. Set 170 meters above sea level, Golden Yihe Stronghold is a little lower than the Terrace Resort Hualien, but its views are equally as spectacular, taking in the East Rift Valley with the Hualien River seen clearly and the vast Central Mountain Range beyond. After a quick drink we set off to explore the rooms and expansive grounds of this sprawling property. Along the way we were shown golden caimito (star apple) fruit growing in the orchard (a first for me) and visited the fowl pen, which is home to a hundred or so happy-looking chickens and a goose. The pen is housed in what was previously a stable, and we learned that until recently the owners had horses, and arranged rides for visitors. The rooms themselves are grouped into three different areas on the hillside: next to the lobby, there are six simple but stylish Honghuo (“red fire”) rooms, with a mezzanine sleeping level and a living room below leading to a decent-sized balcony with (yet more) amazing views. Higher up the hillside, the three rooms in the Qingmu (“green wood”) building have a Zen-like living area with floor-to-ceiling windows looking straight into the tree canopies; note that the twin-bedded sleeping quarters above are a little cramped. A couple of minutes’ walk below the lobby, the last five rooms, in the Heishui (“black water”) building, are the largest, most expensive, and quirkiest. Designed to look like cave dwellings, these rooms are spacious, well furnished, can sleep up to four people each, and have attractive bathrooms – but perhaps the faux rock style won’t appeal to everyone! In the evenings the main deck enjoys a cool breeze and is a great spot for a drink with the chatty owners. After a comfortable night’s stay, an excellent breakfast is served from 8am in the gorgeous lobby, and consists of tasty eggs, rice patties, vegetables, and lots of lovely fresh fruit, which sets you up well for the day. 6, Shoufeng room building of the
homestay HUALIEN Local Stay 34 TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
Mizhan Village,
Main
GOLDEN YIHE STRONGHOLD ( 以合金寨 ) (03) 874-1393 No. 3-1, Sec. 2, Mizhan, Neighborhood
Township, Hualien County ( 花蓮縣壽豐鄉米棧村六鄰米棧二段 3-1 號 ) www.yihe.twwww.facebook.com/yihe.tw Golden Yihe Stronghold Cave-style
Superb valley view Excellent breakfast 35TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
Other Places of Interest in Shoufeng
Biking
HUALIEN Local Stay 36 TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
Just west of the campsite, Chinan National Forest Recreation Area (www.erv-nsa.gov.tw/zh-tw/attractions/detail/31 ) offers more opportunities to stretch your legs and appreciate the majesty of the Shoufeng Township scenery. On the site of a former logging transport camp, the recreation area has forest trails with views over Liyu Lake, breezy pavilions, a playground, and an informative visitor center. The center details the history of the logging industry in Taiwan (in Chinese
Visitor center in forest recreation area Trail in the forest recreation area around Liyu Lake
In the northwestern corner of the township, picturesque Liyu Lake is Shoufeng’s primary drawcard. It’s worth stopping at the visitor center here to pick up a map, and you can hire bikes to cycle the 5km bike path that encircles the lake. You can also rent kayaks and swanshaped pedal boats or, for the less actively inclined, take a lake tour on an electric boat, to get out onto the glimmering waters. For great views, head for the network of hiking trails through the forested hills surrounding the lake. Steep, and slippery after rain, make sure you bring appropriate footwear – and insect repellent. After all of this activity, a refreshing drink or meal at one of the numerous lakeside cafés and restaurants might be in order. From late March through May, Liyu Lake becomes a popular evening destination because of the huge swarms of fireflies that cluster at the water’s edge. There’s also a large campsite a few minutes to the south of the lake, which has regular pitches as well as more comfortable transparent geodesic domes.
ENGLISH AND CHINESE Bunun tribe 布農族 Chinan National Forest Recreation Area 池南國家森林 Coastal Mountain Range 海岸山脈 East Rift Valley 花東縱谷 Heishui 黑水 Honghuo 紅火 Hualien River 花蓮溪 Liyu Lake 鯉魚潭 Qingmu 青木 Shandu 山度空間 Shoufeng Township 壽豐鄉 Yanliao 鹽寮 and English) and displays some impressive historical machinery outside, including a steam train and a small cable car. Every time I pass through the town of Shoufeng I can’t help myself from stopping at the tiny noname crafts shop located diagonally just opposite the 7-Eleven on Provincial Highway 9 (there is also a popular night market right behind the 7-Eleven). It may be just a few stalls tucked under the footbridge, but the owners are friendly, prices are very reasonable, and there are some unique locally made pieces. As a result I’ve bought some of my favorite regional handicrafts here, and my house as well as the bakery my family runs are festooned with wooden stools, woven baskets, and wicker chairs fromMovingShoufeng.away from the rift valley and mountains to Shoufeng’s ocean side allows you to really appreciate its diversity, and in this area there are few better places to do this than trendy Shandu (www. facebook.com/mountain059 ), an outdoor café set above coastal Provincial Highway 11 in Yanliao village. Popular with the Instagram crowd, the grassy hillside here is adorned with a variety of shaded seating areas, transparent hanging chairs, and even a spiral-staircase watchtower, all with the deep blue of the Pacific as a backdrop. There’s an entry fee of NT$80 per person, which is discounted from any purchases. The menu offers simple snacks like lemon chicken, sandwiches and fries, and a wide choice of drinks including iced teas, coffees, and smoothies. Shoufeng crafts shop items HUALIEN Local Stay 37TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
The scene is especially booming for those who enjoy trying innovative, tasty mixed drinks. Bars offering conceptual concoctions using unorthodox or locallysourced ingredients seem to be all the rage now, but these brilliant creators can also customize drinks on the fly based on the customer’s special characteristics or preferences, or simply whip up a mean classic. And don’t cringe at the idea of premixed drinks that you can bring home, as more places are offering artisanal crafted deliciousness in a bottle, a game changer. With two establishments making it into Asia’s Top 50 Bars list this year and four more in the Top 100, Taipei’s scene is now more promising than ever.
A Meet-up with Taipei Mixologists TEXT HAN CHEUNG PHOTOS RAY CHANG Reminder Please don't drink and drive GOOD FOOD Taipei Bars 38 TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
DRINKINGINSTYLE
Taipei has never been a dull place for those who enjoy late-night activities, and the city is teeming with watering holes that offer a wide variety of experiences for their thirsty customers. From elegant, chic bistros with visually stunning cocktails to roadside holes in the wall to specialized joints that offer live music, karaoke, video games, and other forms of entertainment, Taipei’s vibrant nightlife doesn’t disappoint.
There is an ever-growing number of quality options to get your cocktail fix in Taipei. Whether you want a multisensory experience in a chic bistro or just want to take your drink home, the city’s talented mixologists will be sure to have something that will meet your needs.
Wu says the trend of pairing cocktails with food has been rising in recent years, and they’ve also poured much attention into their menu, which also fuses Western and Eastern elements and emphasizes localness and freshness. Their signature foie gras radish cake is quite divine.
Bar Mood
“I feel like many things are better understood through compare and contrast,” owner Nick Wu says. “Many people don’t know what maqaw is, so we say it's a mountain pepper with lemongrass fragrance. We don’t want people to have to memorize all the special ingredients, or feel that they need to be brave to try something unfamiliar.”
This bar is built on contrasts – not only does it have a casual, standing front room and a dim, cozy dining area, its cocktail menu also has creations in pairs of featuring ingredients with similar attributes but coming from the East and West. For example, one Eastern-tinged creation in the “bean series” is the Veined Black Emerald, which features black-bean-infused Johnnie Walker whiskey, Oolong tea syrup, Jinxuan tea, and home-roasted tea bitters. Its Western counterpart is the Fruit of El Dorado, which includes bacon-and-barbecue-sauce bourbon, Tanker whiskey, chocolate malted milk, chocolate bitters, and fresh lemon juice. The “berry series” offers goji berry and blueberry treats, the “herb series pits Taiwanese basil against sweet basil,” and the “spice series” compares maqaw (Taiwanese mountain peppercorn-like seeds) with black pepper.
Bar Mood saw many more foreign customers before the pandemic hit, bartender Tony says, and this sort of menu pairing makes it easier to introduce them to local ingredients. Before, the outside space was designated for people getting off work to grab, say, a quick highball, which is made with a sleek highball machine. Now, they can also order the signature drinks from the inside room as well.
BAR MOOD ( 吧沐 ) No.0905-773-62153,Lane160,
“Many come here from the office buildings in this area, and they’ll first enter the clean, white outside space that’s more familiar to them. They can then move inside, where it’s warmer and more atmospheric,” Wu says. He’s been trying to promote a local bar-hopping culture where people stand, have a drink, and move on, and it is slowly catching on.
Wu is especially proud of the dazzling floral arrangements that adorn the bar, which are changed every week. “They are inspired by the seasonal changes,” he says. “The florist goes to the mountains and thinks of how to condense the current seasonal elements into a display.”
Sec. 1, Dunhua S. Rd., Da'an District, Taipei City ( 台北市大安區敦化南路一段 160 巷 53 號 ) 6pm~1am (until 2am on Friday and www.facebook.com/barmoodtaipeiSaturday) Bar Mood Fruit of El Dorado, Bean Series Botanist's 22 Springs, Herb Series Foie gras radish cake 39TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
Indulge Experimental Bistro
MIXOLOGY AT ITS FINEST Taipei's bartenders excel at creating drinks that resemble works of art Basement diningChapterarea 4 (Fire), No. 1 GOOD FOOD Taipei Bars 40 TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
Ranked #6 in Asia’s Top 50 Bars list, this classy establishment was founded by the legendary Aki Wang, “godfather” of Taiwanese cocktails and three-time world champion. Its current drink menu is divided into five chapters, each representing a region of Taiwan and featuring their local ingredients. Each chapter is named after a traditional Chinese element, from which the visual and flavor concept is drawn. The bar is known for its tea-infused drinks, and the first drink on the list for each chapter features a tea from the corresponding region. For instance, customers can try a Roku Gin, Baozhong Oolong tea, lotus root, ginger lily, peach, and pear concoction representing northern Taiwan, or a Kavalan single-malt whiskey, Alishan Pearl Oolong, Japanese orange, pineapple, mango, and walnut concoction inspired by the tastes of the south. The drinks are visually and aromatically appealing as well, providing a complete sensory experience.
Bar manager Ellen Su says that the specialty menu may change down the road a bit, with the new categories being different parts of a plant – flower, leaves, fruit, tree, and seed. Of course, the bartenders can make any other drink the customers ask for, and the bar also offers premixed cocktail bottles, which are ideal gifts while visiting abroad due to their use of Taiwanese elements, Su says. The two floors of the bar are starkly different in ambience, with the bright and elegant first level suitable for a more intimate, quiet evening out, while the dark, earthy yet classy basement, with “Liquor is Your Soul Spirit” emblazoned on a brick wall, has an old saloon feel that’s ideal for larger gatherings and parties.
Basement level Chapter 3 (Water), No. 2 GOOD FOOD Taipei Bars 41TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
INDULGE EXPERIMENTAL BISTRO (INDULGE 實驗創新餐酒館 ) (02) 2773-0080 No. 11, Lane 219, Sec. 1, Fuxing S. Rd., Da'an District, Taipei City ( 台北市大安區復興南路一段 219 巷 11 號 ) 6pm~1pm (Friday until 2am; Saturday/Sunday 11:30am~5pm, 6pm~2am/1am) indulgebistrotaipei.blogspot.comwww.facebook.com/indulgebistrotaipei(Chinese)
Su says that when Indulge opened 12 years ago, bistros pairing cocktails with a full food menu were quite rare in Taiwan. The gastronomic offerings are also highly conceptual, with each dish featuring a Taiwanese mountain and ocean ingredient as well as other locally sourced items. Not only does this highlight what Taiwan has to offer, it also reduces the establishment’s carbon footprint. An example is the risotto, which has dried rabbitfish, stewed pork belly, and fermented bamboo shoots, or the pan-fried iberico pork tenderloin with plum gravy, stewed abalone, and golden“Wekumquat.hopethat people who come here can indulge themselves in the atmosphere, and lose track of time when they try the drinks,” she says.
Narrowly missing this year's Asia’s Top 50 Bars list by finishing at 51, ROOM is an experimental cocktail restaurant that fuses cutting-edge mixing techniques with molecular gastronomy to create all sorts of unexpected fine dining offerings. Located in an old Japanese-style residence, the futuristic space, centered by a large atom with a dried-flower nucleus, looks like a mad scientist’s dream come true. The funky array of glasses and other decor ingenuities guarantees customers that this will not be a usual-night-out experience.
Draft Land Draft Land resembles a simple and casual craft beer tasting room – but it’s cocktails that are on tap instead. It’s reportedly the first in Asia to serve its mixed drinks this way, garnish-free with no mixologists on site, using self-developed machines to perfect the artform. The best part about the drinks being on tap is that customers can sample the many offerings before settling on their choice. The no-frills interior is sleek and yet pleasant, with standing room only, as the founders hope to overturn the idea that cocktails must be enjoyed in fancier
The seasonal menu offers intricate food and cocktail pairings, and often features limited-edition, highly conceptual collaborations, such as last year’s sevencourse “(Evil)ution” with European restaurant ULV that explored human evolution, environmental destruction, and the road to sustainable development. The ROOM team also collaborated with Three Coins Banquet Hall, creating a unique program based on the seven prime techniques of Cantonese cuisine. The chefs’ explorations into molecular gastronomy can create all sorts of unorthodox ingredients, changing solids into liquids or gasses and reducing waste by making use of usually discarded parts. Dining here is almost like viewing a performance, and it’s exciting to see what sort of madness the creators will come up with every season.
Draft Land Zentonic [Oolung tea, kombu, tonic] "Mad scientist" at work in the ROOM Bannan Line Ice Tea
Afternoon Venice (left),
ROOM by Le Kief
(right) GOOD FOOD Taipei Bars
Thesurroundings.friendlywhite-clad draft tenders don’t make your drink; instead, they spend time talking to each customer when possible to guide them towards a suitable purchase. The menu offers new or special creations from time to time, but mainstays are just that, untouchable, such as the English Milk Punch (brandy, dark rum, cinnamon, apple, sugar, and lime). The “draft tender” says that the current favorite is the Hong Kong Lemon Oolong (vodka, Oolong tea, plum, osmanthus, lime), which was created in Draft Land’s Hong Kong branch. The Bannan Line Ice Tea (gin, tequila, rum, sparkling wine, lime), its blue color matching that of the closest Taipei Metro line, is also a popular choice.
WAT/Taipei Chifeng Branch With "cocktails anywhere, anytime" as their slogan, the WAT team offers designer cocktails in glass bottles that people can enjoy according to preference.
DRAFT LAND No. 2, Lane 248, Sec. 4, Zhongxiao E. Rd., Da'an District, Taipei
( 台北市大安區忠孝東路四段 248 巷 2 號 ) 6pm~1amwww.facebook.com/draftlandwww.draftland.tw ROOM BY LE KIEF (02) 2773-0080 No. 10, Alley 5, Lane 107, Sec. 1, Fuxing S. Rd., Da'an District, Taipei City ( 台北市大安區復興南路一段 107 巷 5 弄 10 號 ) 7pm~2am www.instagram.com/room_by_le_kief/www.facebook.com/lekief.00/(Thursday-Saturday) WAT/TAIPEI CHIFENG BRANCH (WAT/ 台北赤峰店 ) (02) 2559-4629 No. 25, Lane 49, Chifeng St., Datong District, Taipei City 台北市大同區赤峰街 49 巷 25 號 ) 3pm~10pmwww.facebook.com/watcocktailwatcocktail.com Cute, retro-chic mini-mart Cocktail bottles ENGLISH AND CHINESE Aki Wang 王偉勳 Bangka 萬華 Chifeng Street 赤峰街 Dawan BBQ 大腕燒肉 maqaw 馬告 Paolyta-B 保力達 B Xinyi District 信義區 GOOD FOOD Taipei Bars 43TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
WAT’s shiny Xinyi District flagship store boasts a stylish hidden bar, but its latest Chifeng Street location is more of a cute, retro-chic mini-mart that preserves original elements of the old building it is housed in. In addition to a fridge stocked with a tantalizing array of drinks, this creative venture also has a mixing station with cups, soda water, and other necessities to craft your ideal libation. The store doesn't have seating, but there's a nice park across the street if you can't wait to get home.
WAT Chifeng’s signature mix blends old-school Paolyta-B medicinal wine with dragon-fruit juice, and it also offers its own array of creative classics mostly featuring local ingredients – such as kumquat fourseasons tea, chili mango, and a white gourd highball. It also has a collaboration series with eateries, brands, City
You would certainly expect a rich nightlife scene from a vibrant international city such as Taipei, and the capital of Taiwan does not disappoint when it comes to pubs, bars, and clubs where you can enjoy yourself throughout the night.
TEXT VISION ILLUSTRATIONS IAN TSAI
She Never Sleeps
On top of this, there is a wide range of additional options, some of which might be a bit surprising to first-time visitors. The city lights shine brightly throughout the Taipei night, and enjoying the view from a high vantage point will surely create lasting memories. Rooftop restaurants and bars atop high-rises are good for this (like Drunk Play in Xinyi District; www.facebook.com/drunkplay4fun ; until 2am), but if you prefer the embrace of nature and don’t mind leaving the exciting urban jungle behind, head to the teahouses in the Maokong area in the southeast corner of the city. Some of them, like Yao Yue Teahouse ( yytea.com.tw ; Chinese; 24h), stay open until late into or even through the night. A restaurant with superb nighttime views of central Taipei City from the north is The Top (www.compei.com; until 3am), located next to Chinese Culture University.
TaipeiCityGivesNightOwlsaLottoHootAbout
Nighttime City Views Not ready to call it a day and go back to your hotel, hostel, or homestay yet? If you’re in Taipei, you don’t have to worry about empty streets with closed shops come the evening hours. Below are some of the places that will welcome you past midnight.
LITTLE THINGS Nighttime Fun
24hr Bookstore Cafés
ENGLISH AND CHINESE Chelun Shrimp Fishing 車輪釣蝦場 Chinese Culture University 中國文化大學 Daan District 大安區 Datong District 大同區 Drunk Play 爛醉不累 Maokong 貓空 Shilin District 士林區 Ximending 西門町 Xinyi District 信義區 Yao Yue Teahouse 邀月茶坊 Zhishan Road 至善路
The ubiquitous main chain-operated convenience stores are open 24h and are a godsend for anyone looking to grab a bite in the middle of the night. If, for whatever reason, you crave cute Japanese edibles and drinkables in the wee hours, Don Don Donki (www.dondondonki.com/tw ; 24h) is your answer. Located in Taipei’s youth-oriented Ximending area, the shop has a wide palate of snack foods and drinks from Japan, including fresh strawberries and hot oden. Along Zhishan Road in Taipei’s Shilin District are a number of restaurants that are open until late at night and offer a rather unique experience, shrimp fishing. After renting a fishing rod, bait, and basket, you’ll sit on a simple chair or stool by the side of a shallow pool with murky water and wait until the shrimp take the bait. It can take a while. Once you have caught some shrimp, you can BBQ them and wash them down with soft drinks and beer. One of the popular shrimp restaurants on Zhishan Road is Chelun Shrimp Fishing (www.facebook.com/ShrimpfishingZS485; NT$350/hr; until 4:30pm).
The Xinyi branch of eslite bookstore (www.eslitecorp. com) is widely known for its round-the-clock opening hours. The store has a wide selection of books (170,000 titles, including 20,000 foreign-language editions), and organizes various periodic activities such as reading and music events. Also part of the store operation is the eslite music hall (24h), a fresh-produce supermarket (24h), and the eslite café (until 1am). Cafés are usually daytime enterprises, but there are numerous cafés in Taipei that stay open nighthawk late. One example is Sugar Man Café in Daan District (www.facebook.com/cafesugarman; open until 4am), another Station & Café in Datong District (www.facebook.com/wh.stationcafe; open until 3am).
ShrimpShops Fishing
LITTLE THINGS Nighttime Fun 45TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
Walk in Taiwan’s founder, Chiu Yi, is a proud, bona fide Dadaocheng native with family roots in the locale spanning over a century. The rest of Taipei is fine, he says, but tourist hotspots like Shilin Night Market and the National Palace Museum are hardly representative of the city. You need to look beyond them to the older neighborhoods, like Dadaocheng, to truly understand the city. “Dadaocheng life is different. Dadaocheng people are different.” Chiu veers off for a while to talk about the district’s deep connection to the adjacent Tamsui River and yesteryear maritime trade, evidently enthused by his subject. This passion is shared by all of Walk in Taiwan’s guides, who are selected based on their mutual vision and because of the unique range of interests they bring to their role. Chiu, for example, identifies himself as a businessman and takes joy in explaining OR sharing his knowledge of the intricacies of Taiwan’s sociohistory. Others have an affinity for foods or an enthusiasm for environmental issues. These interests are nurtured during training, and new guides learn how to interview locals in order to pass on authentic stories. It is an effort of cultural preservation akin to taking dusty collective heirlooms out of the national attic and giving them a quick polish so that they can be treasured once more. Presenting genuine vignettes of Taiwan life as told by local voices is one of three key principles that underscore the company’s sustainability ethos. Complementing this are the practice of cooperating with local partners and the promise not to disturb the community – even more important given that a lot of Chiu’s tours take place in his own neck of the woods! that Open a Window onto the Real Taiwan
TEXT AMI BARNES PHOTOS WALK IN TAIWAN Let’s Take a Walk EXPERT TALK Walking Tours 46 TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
Walk in Taiwan, a Taipei-based tour organizer, has spent the past ten years crafting meaningful excursions for both domestic and international tourists. Based on the philosophy that you have to walk through a place to get a true sense of it, its tours offer in-depth insights into a selection of Taiwan’s unique communities.
Tours
Walk in
Tidal zone walkTea plantation walk Taiwan founder Chiu
When it welcomed its first customers (under the earlier name “Taipei Walking Tours”), the company just offered tours of Dadaocheng. But it soon became apparent that the team had managed to tap into a demand for walking tours that touch on more than just the surface level, and so they soon struck out into two more historical districts in Taipei City and surrounding New Taipei City, Wanhua and Tamsui . The intervening years have seen an upswell of both domestic and foreign tourists seeking out travel experiences that offer a boots-on-the-ground connection to a place. Moving with the times, since then Walk in Taiwan has expanded both to new locations around Taiwan and to new offerings, like hands-on craft workshops and multisensory culinary tours. The last is one of the company’s most frequently requested experiences. Trips tend to be crafted with an in-depth focus on one subject. A food tour, for example, might see guests learning how to cook traditional snacks or visiting a farm to learn about a staple crop before getting to sample some food. Ocean-themed tours might take visitors to a fishermen’s village in Yunlin County or to a community in Keelung where the last of Taiwan’s hainu (lit. “sea women”; women who brave the waves with a minimum of equipment to forage for plants and sea creatures) practice their craft. These aren’t just pretty cultural baubles dressed up for foreign audiences, they’re slices of real life, something that can be instructive and educational for locals and first-time visitors to Taiwan alike. They’re also the kind of thing that can be hard to access without the help of a local guide. Since the majority of Walk in Taiwan’s tours are tailored to suit the needs of each group, it’s recommended to contact the company directly either through their Walking Tours website or by phone. Prices range from NT$700-$800 for a 2-3 hour city walking tour conducted in Chinese, up to NT$20,000 for a more customized day-trip. As for the trip content, Chiu says the reason for traveling tends to influence which experiences customers will opt for – educational groups often favor more hands-on DIY experiences, while business travelers punt for either relaxing or team-building activities. Whichever option customers choose, guides are able to conduct tours in English, Chinese, and Japanese. Chiu pauses a moment before adding, “Probably Taiwanese too. I’m sure we could arrange that!”
Yi 47TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
Tourism experiences that offer a boots-on-the-ground connection to
Asked how he feels more generally about the state of Taiwan’s tourism industry, Chiu is reflective. The biggest hurdle he cites for Taiwan becoming a bucket list destination for more foreign travelers is not what you might think. He doesn’t center the blame on a lack of government dollars or impetus to put Taiwan on the map. Instead, he suggests it’s more existential. What is Taiwan? What does it mean to be Taiwanese? Until people here can confidently answer these questions, selling Taiwan as a destination will be an uphill battle. Historically, the answers have been heavily tinted by the pervading ideologies of the powers that be, but Chiu is optimistic. Gesturing at one of his youthful employees, he notes that a more crystallized sense of Taiwanese identity is emerging in the younger generations. Perhaps they will have the answers.
in Taiwan WALK IN TAIWAN Travel
a place WALK IN TAIWAN ( 島內散步 ) (02) www.facebook.com/walkin.tw2556-9021 walkin.tw www.instagram.com/walkin.taiwan ENGLISH AND CHINESE Chiu Yi 邱翊 Dadaocheng 大稻埕 hainu 海女 National Palace Museum 故宮博物院 Shilin Night Market 士林夜市 Tamsui 淡水 Wanhua 萬華 Walk in Cloud virtual tour EXPERT TALK Walking Tours 48 TRAVEL IN TAIWAN SEP/OCT 2022
Unsurprisingly, the past couple of years has been challenging for the company. More than most sectors, tourism relies on open borders bringing a constant influx of new guests, and at one nerve-wracking point in 2021, Walk in Taiwan went a whole month with no income. Even now, there’s still a sense that it’s going to be a long road back to pre-pandemic levels of tourism, and that the landscape may have shifted entirely (corporate travel, for example, looks like it might be mostly a thing of the past). Thankfully, however, things have started to improve. Seizing the bull of adversity by the horns of opportunity, Chiu has expanded into the realm of virtual tours. The company’s online venture – Walk in Cloud – takes guests from far-flung corners of the globe on a jaunt through some of Taiwan’s historic neighborhoods from the comfort of their living rooms. There are also new in-person ventures on the horizon, with future tours being planned in Kaohsiung, Tainan, Chiayi, and Taoyuan.
TenRen's Tea 天仁茗茶
TenRen’s Tea Taipei – Ximen Branch ( 天仁茗茶台北-西門店 ) No. 76, Xining S. Rd., Taipei City (台北市西寧南路76號)
Situated on Mt. Jiantan in Taipei, the Grand Hotel is a 14-story palace-style building constructed in 1970. There are two underground tunnels, under its east wing and west wing, respectively, which were designed as emergency escape routes for President Chiang Kai-shek. After opening the West Tunnel earlier, receiving enthusiastic response by visitors, now, the 50-year-old East Tunnel has been opened to the public as well. It has a length of 67 meters with a curvy design meant to prevent chasing soldiers from shooting at the fleeing parties, and walls with an uneven surface to enhance sound absorption. Since only a limited number of visitors can be accommodated, the East Tunnel is only open to guests who come on corporate trips, attend state banquets, or opt for a special East Tunnel Room Package.
Tel: (02) 2886-1818 ext. 1818 [guided-tour department] www.grand-hotel.org
Tel: Hours:+886-2-2361-198609:00~21:30 mytenren.com TaipeiBUY
www.oahotels.com.tw No. 116, Songjiang Rd., Taipei
Toucheng Leisure Farm 頭城休閒農場
cha FOR TEA ToGo offers a wide variety of stunningly flavorful tea drinks. Apart from bubble tea (“pearl milk tea”), a mustdrink when visiting Taiwan, you also have to try the 913 King’s Tea, which is only available at cha FOR TEA ToGo. In addition to the pleasant flavor of high-mountain Oolong tea, you can also experience the sweet after taste of ginseng.
HOT! STAY / EAT / BUY
HualienHOTEL YilanFARM No. 1, Sec. 4, Zhongshan N. Rd., Zhongshan District, Taipei City ( 台北市中山區中山北路四段一號)
(宜蘭縣頭城鎮烏石港路301號) Tel: (03)
福容大飯店 花蓮
Fax:
No. of rooms: 257 Room rates: City View Rooms from NT$7,800; Japanese/ Western Rooms from NT$16,800 (room rates are subject to 10% service charge) Desk personnel speak: Chinese, English Restaurants: Happy Garden (Chinese, Cantonese), Arcadia Café (Western style) The hotel is located close to Hualien Harbor, allowing you to enjoy the most beautiful sunrise over the Pacific Ocean, the water’s color ranging from deep azure to light blue, the sun’s palette ranging from pale yellow to golden. Take in the marvelous views of the sun beautifully reflected by the sparkling sea from the infinity pool or one of the sea-view guestrooms. Staying at the hotel gives you easy access to the world-class scenic wonder that is Taroko Gorge as well as the bucolic East Rift Valley. Travel with friends and family and explore the mountains and the coast. Hualien will surely give you unforgettable memories!
humbleboutique.com.tw YilanHOTEL TaipeiHOTEL TaipeiHOTEL OA Hotel 連大烏石港度假村 Humble Boutique Hotel 寒居酒店
The 42-year-old Toucheng Leisure Farm has a new attraction! A space for storing tools and old objects was turned into a new dining space, the Green Bar! From brunch to afternoon tea to a drink after dark, individual guests or groups of friends will enjoy this cozy setting. A wall of red bricks and concrete is what remains of farm founder Zhuo Chen-ming’s original home. The exposed red bricks form the shape of Taiwan, making it a popular for taking photos. In addition to different themed DIY experiences, the restaurant’s dessert chef amazingly uses plants from the farm during special activities to create various special cakes. It is possible to reserve the entire restaurant for three hours with room for up to 40 diners. Unlimited coffee, beverages, and two types of handmade cookies and cakes will be provided. No. 125-1, Gengxin Rd., Toucheng Township, Yilan County (宜蘭縣頭城鎮更新路125-1號) Tel: (03) 977-2222 www.tcfarm.com.tw Hotel Hualien No. 51, Minsheng Rd., Hualien City, Hualien County (03) 823-9988 (03) 823-0077
OA HOTEL features stacked black stone panels and its exterior has a distinct wave shape. The interior decoration includes images of beach and surfing creating an Americanway-of-life vibe. The youth hostel, to open in June 2022, has doubles, quadruples, and six-person rooms. The sixperson rooms feature one double bed and one large bunk bed, which consists of two large beds, perfectly suited for families with children or groups of friends. The hostel has a restaurant serving freshly-baked pizza that young people will love. Each floor is also equipped with a communal area, open 24h a day, where guests can interact with each other. There is also the 490sqm indoor leisure area “O Bay PLAY,” where you can play SWITCH for free. Also available are pool soccer, table football, air hockey, cornhole, darts, board games, and treadmills.
After trial operation started, Humble Boutique Hotel cooperated with Michelin-Star Chef Ming Kin Lam to open the BeGood restaurant, taking advantage of the high-quality and large-scale Humble platform. The restaurant serves up creative dishes with multi-cultural characteristics presenting the essence of exotic cuisine using a diverse-restaurant model. Part of the restaurant operation is a café and a bakery. The hotel also cooperates with Taiwan's first indoor glass house botanical museum with a focus on fragrance, Artemis Garden. Using warm and soft rosewood, fresh green hoary stock, and pleasant ginger essential oil, the hotel's exclusive fragrance Hoot No. 116 was created. On the 6th and 10th guestroom floors there are vending machines allowing you to buy Hoot No. 116 fragrance spray and also wooden toys, fun puzzles, owl-shaped soap, and bathroom accessories. No. 301, Wushigang Rd., Toucheng Township, Yilan County 977-1166 City 6600-8000
Fullon
www.fullon-hotels.com.tw/hl/en/
(台北市松江路116號) Tel: (02)
Grand Hotel Taipei 圓山大飯店
TenRen's Tea provides a friendly environment where you can enjoy delicious food, drink excellent tea, and buy special souvenirs. Taste natural and healthful tea cuisine dishes, and try and buy tea produced in Taiwan.
(花蓮縣花蓮市民生路51號) Tel:
International Students Recruitment Semester Dates and Application Information 1. Taiwan Scholarship (please contact the nearest diplomatic missions in your home countries) 2. Full tuition waiver (Bachelor’s program: 1 year; Master’s program: 2 years; doctoral program: 3 years) Scholarships Semesters Application Period Announcement of Admission Results NewRegistrationStudent Fall 2023 October 3, 2022 –January 16, 2023 April, 2023 September, 2023 Spring 2024 June 1 – July 31, 2023 October, 2023 February, 2024 Silver of Creative Awards for Best International Website The world-renowned Mandarin Training Center; online Mandarin courses offered (MTC Online) 1 1st in International Outlook among Taiwanese universities (Times Higher Education 2022) 61st in Asian University Rankings 334th in World Rankings (QS World University Rankings 2022) 390+ partner institutions around the world Come and study with us!Follow us on YouTube Top 25 in Education (Times Higher Education 2022) Popular and Recommended Departments/Institutes for International Students • For the specific application schedule, please refer to the admission prospectus of the year. • Online application only. Please refer to International Students Application website for details: https://bds.oia.ntnu.edu.tw/bds/apply Colleges Departments/Institutes Bachelor Master’s Doctoral Education Education ● ● ● Special Education ● ● ● Liberal Arts Translation Interpretationand ● ● English ● ● ● Arts Fine Arts ● ● ● Design ● ● ● TechnologyEngineeringand Integrative STEM Education ● International Studies and Social Sciences Chinese as a Second Language ● ● ● International Human Resource Development ● Music Music ● ● ● Applications to Degree Programs – Office of International Affairs 886-2-7749-1272 , 886-2-7749-1284 https://www.ntnu.edu.tw/oia/ intlntnu@ntnu.edu.tw
