Travel in Taiwan (No.97 2020 1/2 ) by Travel in Taiwan

2020

JAN & FEB

2020 Year

Mountain tourism

MT. HEHUAN/QINGJING TAIPINGSHAN/QILAN FOREST RECREATION AREAS MT. JADE/ALISHAN/JIAMING LAKE

No.

EASY SCENIC TRAIL MT. GUANYIN/BALI/TAMSUI

FUN TRIP PLAN

GREAT PLACES IN TAIPEI CITY

QUICK CITY TOUR

DOWNTOWN TAICHUNG

Android

iOS

Hsin Tung Yang 新東陽

Taiwan Tea Whirlwind

Grain biscuits with bubble milk tea flavor 珍珠奶茶雪花餅

Bubble milk tea cake 珍珠奶茶酥

Walnut cookies with green-tea flavor

Alishan Oolung tea

綠茶小桃酥

阿里山茶

Store Information

PUBL ISHER 'S NOTE

Welcome to Taiwan! Dear Traveler, Did you know that this year is the “Taiwan Year of Mountain Tourism 2020”? The Taiwan Tourism Bureau has launched a major campaign to brand our island as an international mountaineering tourism destination, and with a focus on sustainable mountain tourism, we have specially designed a series of articles about mountain-trail routes that highlight Taiwan’s unique ecological and cultural features. In this first issue of Travel in Taiwan for 2020 we’ll be spending a good deal of time up in the hills, so get your hiking boots on! We present you with three articles in our Mountains department. One offers a general overview of hiking in Taiwan, with our peak-trekking writer describing the island as a “Cathedral of Mountains,” then provides whirlwind introductions to three iconic hiking destinations in southern Taiwan: Yushan (Mt. Jade), Taiwan’s highest peak; Alishan, heart of one of Taiwan’s most popular national scenic areas; and Jiaming Lake, Taiwan’s secondhighest alpine lake. Another Mountains file brings you up the Central Cross-Island Highway, first to Qingjing Farm, an alpine recreational farm spread out on steep mountaintop slopes, then up further still to Hehuanshan (Mt. Hehuan) and the Wuling pass, location of Taiwan’s highest publicroad point, at 3,475m. Qingjing offers numerous pretty trails and the renowned Qingjing Skywalk. Hehuanshan’s numerous thrillingly cinematic hikes require just moderate fitness to reach peaks just above eye level at the Wuling pass. In our third Mountains file, you will spend mist-beautified days in the Taipingshan and Qilan national forest recreation areas, located very near each other in eastern Taiwan’s Yilan County. As our writer says, enter these zones and you “enter a wonder world of coniferous forest, home to centuries-old tree giants.” In other excursions, we bring you down to much lower heights in our Easy Scenic Trails department, with hikes on low-elevation Guanyinshan (Mt. Guanyin), beside the Tamsui River northwest of Taipei City, followed by visits to the urban areas of Bali and Tamsui, on the river’s left and right banks, respectively. It’s full flatlands discovery in Fun Trip Plan, where we explore “Taipei in Style” with a quick look at how to have fun in the capital, and in Quick City Tour, where we serve as your guide for a half-day tour of places within walking distance of Taichung’s railway station. Wishing you a happy time exploring wonderful Taiwan!

JOE Y. CHOU PH.D. DIRECTOR GENERAL TOURISM BUREAU, MOTC, R.O.C. TR AVEL I N TAIWAN

Travel in

PUBLISHER Joe Y. Chou

Taiwan

EDITING CONSULTANT T. C. Chou PUBLISHING ORGANIZATION TAIWAN TOURISM BUREAU, MINISTRY OF TRANSPORTATION AND COMMUNICATIONS

2020 JANUARY/FEBRUARY

CONTACT International Division, Taiwan Tourism Bureau Add: 9F, 290 Zhongxiao E. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City, 10694, TAIWAN Tel: 886-2-2349-1500 Fax: 886-2-2771-7036 E-mail: tbroc@tbroc.gov.tw Website: http://taiwan.net.tw

台灣觀光雙月刊 Travel in Taiwan The Official Bimonthly English Magazine of the Taiwan Tourism Bureau (Advertisement) JANUARY/FEBRUARY, 2020 Tourism Bureau, MOTC First published Jan./Feb. 2004 ISSN: 18177964 GPN: 2009305475 Price: NT$200

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2020

JAN & FEB

2020 Year

Mountain tourism

ON THE COVER Hehuanshan mountain scenery (photo by Ray Chang)

TR AVEL IN TAIWAN

MT. HEHUAN/QINGJING TAIPINGSHAN/QILAN FOREST RECREATION AREAS MT. JADE/ALISHAN/JIAMING LAKE

No.

EASY SCENIC TRAIL MT. GUANYIN/BALI/TAMSUI

FUN TRIP PLAN

GREAT PLACES IN TAIPEI CITY

QUICK CITY TOUR

DOWNTOWN TAICHUNG

Android

iOS

This magazine is printed on FSC TM COC certified paper. Any product with the FSC TM logo on it comes from a forest that has been responsibly maintained and harvested in a sustainable manner.

This magazine was printed with soy ink. Soy ink is said to be more environmentally friendly than petroleum-based ink and to make it easier to recycle paper.

Contents 38

QINGJING FARM & HEHUANSHAN

TAIPINGSHAN/QILAN/ YILAN CITY

Two High-Mountain Destinations Beloved by Tourists

Wonderful Forest Recreation Areas and a Charming City

MOUNTAINS

PUBLISHER'S NOTE

MOUNTAINS 04

TAIWAN, THE CATHEDRAL OF MOUNTAINS

TAIWAN TOURISM EVENTS

Hiking Adventures that Will Uplift Your Spirit

TRAVEL NEWS

EASY SCENIC TRAILS MT. GUANYIN & TAMSUI

Half Day on the Mountain, Half Day Down in the Town, Full Day of Fun!

CULTURE AND ART

TAIPEI IN STYLE

HALF-DAY TAICHUNG TOUR

FUN TRIP PLAN A Quick Look at How to Have Fun in the Capital

QUICK CITY TOUR Places to Visit within Walking Distance from the Railway Station

TR AVEL I N TAIWAN

TA I WA N TOUR ISM E V ENTS

CELEBRATING A FRESH NEW YEAR

January | March

Taiwan Tourism Events Calendar Website

Lantern Festival Activities and Amazing Floral Beauty

TAICHUNG CITY February 8 ~ 23

TAIWAN LANTERN FESTIVAL 台灣燈會

This year’s annual Taiwan Lantern Festival is being hosted by the Taichung City Government, with the main venue at the Houli Horse Ranch and Forest Park Area. The festival is taking place February 8 through 23. Focal points will be the natural environment and the world of art, with colorful lanterns and art installations, light shows, and street parades entertaining the crowds. A secondary venue will be the Wenxin Forest Park in the city’s Nantun District, where from now through February 23 there’s a children’s fun park area with large and small lanterns, interactive installations, and a variety of performances for the enjoyment of families with kids. travel.taichung.gov.tw

NEW TAIPEI CITY February

PINGXI SKY LANTERN FESTIVAL 平溪天燈節

Releasing paper lanterns into the sky is a very popular activity for tourists who visit the scenic Pingxi Valley in New Taipei City. While sky lanterns are released throughout the year, during the time of the Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival (two weeks after the Lunar New Year) the atmosphere is especially enchanting. Thousands of revelers gather and hundreds of lanterns are released at the same time in succession, turning the night sky into a sea of orange lights. Write your wishes on your lantern and send it to the heavens! tour.ntpc.gov.tw

TAINAN CITY February

YANSHUI BEEHIVE FIREWORKS FESTIVAL 鹽水蜂炮

While the Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival is a very peaceful and heartwarming festival, the Yanshui Beehive Fireworks Festival is definitely not. And it’s not meant to be. The origin of the beehive fireworks goes back to the late 19 th century, when the people of the town of Yanshui were plagued by a cholera epidemic. Turning to the gods for help, they carried a palanquin with Guan Di, the God of War, through the streets and set off firecrackers to scare away the evil spirits responsible for the plague. This approach apparently worked, and the faithful people of Yanshui have been organizing the beehive fireworks event annually ever since. www.twtainan.net/yanshuifireworks

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JA NUA RY- M A RCH

MIAOLI CITY February

TAINAN CITY March

MIAOLI BOMBING THE DRAGON

TAIWAN INTERNATIONAL ORCHID SHOW

This is another festive event organized during the time of the annual lantern festival period. It takes place at the Yuqing Temple in Miaoli City, and activities last from the first day of the lunar month to the 15th. The “bombing of the dragon” tradition (the “dragon” is a long paper dragon carried by several men) is carried out in several stages during this period: the creation of the dragon, painting its eyes (to bring it to life), welcoming of the dragon, walking with the dragon, and finally bombing it (setting off firecrackers around it and in the end burning it).

Orchids have been cultivated in Taiwan for more than a hundred years, and over the last two decades the local production has been increased significantly, making the island one of the most important orchid exporters in the world. More than 90% of Taiwan-grown flowers shipped abroad are orchids, with moth orchids being the most important. This orchid show is not only an important event for international orchid buyers, but also a great exhibition of all types of orchids for the common flower lover.

苗栗

龍

臺灣國際蘭展

www.tiostw.com

miaolitravel.net

TAIPEI CITY February~March

YANGMINGSHAN FLOWER SEASON 陽明山花季

When the weather in northern Taiwan is at its coolest in Februar y and March each year, the cherry trees of Yangmingshan National Park burst into bloom, bringing bright red and pink colors to the otherwise grayishgreen mountainsides. Azaleas and camellias and a large bouquet of other flower types also join in the fun, to the delight of flower lovers, who flock to the park in large number. Among the favorite locations to enjoy the floral beauty are Yangming Park and the Floriculture Experiment Center. www.ymsnp.gov.tw

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TR AV EL NE WS

NEWS & Events around Taiwan

FAB GREEN VILLAGE IN TAMSUI Opened recently, the FAB Green Village is a new tourist attraction in New Taipei City's Tamsui District, a popular day-trip destination on the North Coast. Located between Tamsui's Old Street and the Fisherman's Wharf, close to Fort San Domingo and the Cloud Gate Theater, the modern and luxurious complex includes a shopping mall, an Ambassador movie theater, an art museum, and the Golden Tulip Fab Hotel New Taipei. The stylish snowwhite building, which overlooks the Tamsui River, is not just pleasing to the eye but is also a "green" building, constructed with the natural environment in mind and harmoniously integrated into the surrounding spacious park area.

NEW AIR ROUTES BETWEEN SOUTH KOREA AND EAST TAIWAN Many of Taiwan's best scenic and cultural attractions can be found on the east side of the island. To make getting there easier for visitors from South Korea, Korean airlines have recently added new routes connecting Hualien, the main city on the East Coast, with cities in Korea, including Incheon and Busan (Eastar Jet) and Ulsan (Air Busan). Asiana Airlines is also preparing to increase the number of ﬂights between Korea and Kaohsiung.

No. 2, Sec. 1, Zhongzheng Rd., Tamsui District, New Taipei City ( 新北市淡水區中正路一段 2 號 ) www.fabmall.com.tw

Photo courtesy of Museum of Archaelogy, Tainan Branch of National Museum of Prehistory

NEW PREHISTORY MUSEUM BRANCH IN TAINAN The National Museum of Prehistory, located in the southeast city of Taitung, is a fine museum dedicated to the preservation and study of Taiwan's prehistoric and indigenous cultures. Last October, the museum opened a new branch in Tainan City inside the Southern Taiwan Science Park. The Museum of Archaeology, Tainan Branch of National Museum of Prehistory displays a total of 540 items that were excavated in the area where the science park is situated. Some items date back 4,000 to 5,000 years, including carbonated rice pellets. Skeletons of prehistoric humans and animals are shown as well, and visitors can watch archaeologists at work. Interactive displays using the latest technology make a visit into the world of archeology fun and entertaining, even for children. No. 10, Nanke 3 rd Rd., Xinshi District, Tainan City ( 台南市新市區南科三路 10 號 ) www.nmp.gov.tw

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BITOU CAPE BARRACKS BECOME TOURIST ATTRACTION Bitou Cape, on the Northeast Coast, is popular with visitors for its excellent views of rugged coast and the vast sea. A loop trail – steep in sections, but easy to follow – takes you high up to vantage points on the cape, where you can take in the sweeping vistas. Among the other manmade structures on the promontory are the snow-white Bitou Cape Lighthouse (height 12.3 meters; current structure dating from 1971) and deserted military barracks, the latter for a long time in full view from the trail but oﬀ-limits to visitors. After renovations carried out by the Northeast and Yilan Coast National Scenic Area Administration, last November these barracks were opened to the public as a new tourist attraction. Sporting colorfully camouﬂaged walls, the barracks have become a popular spot for taking photos and contemplating the life of the soldiers stationed on this windswept spot in the past. For more info about the Northeast Coast, visit: www.necoast-nsa.gov.tw.

Popular Hiking Areas in Taiwan

The year 2020 has been named “Taiwan Year of Mountain Tourism” by the Taiwan Tourism Bureau, and the Bureau has selected a total of twelve areas around the island (shown in the map below) that are recommended for visitors who want to experience this land’s magnificent mountains up close. Take a look! Hiking in Greater Taipei and Yilan

From downtown Taipei City, the ultra-modern capital of Taiwan, it’s surprisingly easy to reach mountain trails that take you through lush forests and up to mountaintops with truly amazing views. Among the many trails you want to follow in the greater Taipei area are those on Mt. Guanyin (see article on page 38) and Mt. Guanyin / 觀音山 in Yangmingshan National Park (Mt. Qixing/ Taipei Danlan Historic Trail Mt. Datun). Between Taipei City and northern Yilan County is a network of historic trails, 淡蘭古道 New Taipei collectively known as the Danlan Historic Trail, Guanwu National which is currently being restored in a collective Forest Recreation Area/ Taipingshan National 觀霧國家森林遊樂區 Forest Recreation Area effort by local governments and private interest 太平山國家森林遊樂區 Hsinchu groups to give hikers even more options to Yilan explore this rural part of northern Taiwan. In Shei-pa National Park southern Yilan County there are two highly (Mt. Snow, Wuling Farm)/ 雪霸國家公園 / 武陵農場 recommended mountain areas attracting hikers with stunningly beautiful forests, Taipingshan Taichung and Qilan (see article on page 24). Taroko National Park (Zhuilu Historic Trail) 太魯閣國家公園 / 錐鹿古道

Aowanda National Forest Recreation Area / 奧萬大國家森林遊樂區

Nantou Hualien

Alishan National Scenic Area / 阿里山國家風景區

Maolin National Scenic Area / 茂林國家風景區

Chiayi

Kaohsiung

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Nenggao Historic Trail (Qingjing Farm) 能高越嶺古道 / 清境農場

Nenggao Historic Trail in Central Taiwan

Taiwan is a paradise for hikers, from those interested in short and easy walks on wellma rked tra i ls to t hose look ing for “rea l Yushan National Park (Mt. Jade) adventure” in rough terrain with routes that test your limits. The Nenggao Historic Trail 玉山國家公園 in centra l Ta iwa n, t hough in the higher Jiaming Lake, Chishang Taitung mountains, is a route that presents a good 嘉明湖 / 池上 choice for average hikers who want to challenge Mt. Dulan / 都蘭山 themselves just a little bit, without facing precarious trail sections. The trailhead is near the hot-spring village of Lushan, about 13km from the tourist-popular Qingjing Farm area (see article about Qingjing Farm and Mt. Hehuan on page 12). The trail is usually done in two days with an overnight stay at a mountain cabin, such as Tianchi Cabin (2,860m). While the main trail is not overly technical, there are many challenging high peaks in the area waiting to be conquered by advanced hikers, including Mt. Nenggao (3,262m) and Mt. Qilai (3,560m). Matai’an Wetland / 馬太鞍濕地

CON V ENIENT TR AV EL / N A NTOU

TO THE TOP OF TAIWAN BY BUS

Taiwan Tour Bus website

A Convenient Way to Visit the High Mountains TE X T & PHOTOS V I S ION

As you will find out in this issue’s first Mountains article, the Central Cross-Island Highway is one of the main routes used to get you deep into the wonder world that is the Central Mountain Range. If you don’t have your own means of transport to ply this route, following is an introduction of a most convenient way to visit the high-mountain attractions of Taiwan.

he Qingjing and Lishan Two-day Tour, detailed on the Taiwan Tour Bus website (www.taiwantourbus.com. tw), begins in the town of Puli and follows first Prov. Hwy 14/14A east, passing Qingjing Farm and Mt. Hehuan, then Prov. Hwy 8 north to reach the town of Lishan. After a night in Lishan, you will follow the same route back down the mountains to Puli.

PULI

Puli is located close to the geographical center of Taiwan. The town is known for exceptional water quality and fine agricultural products produced on local farms. On this trip you will make a stop at the Puli Winery, producer of excellent Shaoxing wine.

Qingjing and Lishan Two-day Tour ( 梨山幸福巴士二日遊 ) www.taiwantourbus.com.tw/C/tour/us/qingjing-lishan Day 1 Pick-up

Puli Winery (20min.) Qingjing Farm (1.5hrs) lunch (1hr) Wuling scenery (30 min.) tour of Lishan Guesthouse, 1956 Secret Garden (1.5hrs) dinner music entertainment overnight at Lishan Guesthouse

Day 2 Fushoushan Farm

(2hrs.) lunch (1hr) Lishan Culture Museum (30min.) Mt. Hehuan and Qilai Ridge scenery at Songxue Lodge (1hr) scenery at Qingjing Guesthouse return Lookout (30min.)

QINGJING FARM

Qingjing Farm is a high-mountain operation established in 1962. The farm was developed as a relocation area for veterans of the ROC’s armed forces. Its main attraction is the resident flock of sheep that grazes on the verdant steep-slope pastures. WULING/MT. HEHUAN

Wuling is the highest highway point in all of Taiwan. There you will see the mountain peaks that belong to Mt. Hehuan, the most accessible of the hundreds of 3,000-plus-meter mountains in Taiwan. LISHAN

Lishan is a small town known for temperate-climate fruit orchards and Lishan Guesthouse, once a summer residence of late president Chiang Kai-shek. This is both a historical site to visit and the place you will overnight during this trip. FUSHOUSHAN FARM

This high-mountain farm has fruit orchards, cabbage fields, and tea plantations. From Lishan the bus will then retrace the route of the previous day, making stops at points from where you will enjoy more of the unforgettable high-mountain scenery.

PRICE: NT$4,580/adult (NT$5,780 on weekends/holidays) MARSHAL TOURS ( 元帥旅行社 ) www.marshaltour.com.tw (04) 2301-5590 11F, No. 161, Gongyi Rd., Western District, Taichung City ( 台中市西區公益路 161 號 11 樓 )

CULT URE A ND A R T

CULTURE Concerts, Exhibitions, and Happenings

Until February 23

BETWIXT REALITY AND ILLUSION: SPECIAL EXHIBITION OF JADES 實幻之間 — 院藏戰國至漢代玉器特展

The use of jade stone for ornaments in China has a long history – a very long history. According to archeological finds, jade was being mined as early as 6,000BC. Standing out as a time during which jade carvers achieved lofty excellence in crafting beautiful and astonishingly dynamic renderings of mystical creatures such as dragons is the period from 475BC to 220CE, which includes the Warring States and Han Dynasty eras. At this exhibition you can marvel at 212 specially selected jade artifacts from this epoch in ancient Chinese history, including 114 works from the former collections of the Qing Court along with 98 newly acquired works. National Palace Museum [Taipei City] www.npm.gov.tw

Until May 17

SHOZO SHIMAMOTO: ACROSS THE BORDERLANDS OF ART

嶋本昭三：跨越藝術邊界 Japanese artist Shozo Shimamoto (1928-2013), cofounde r of the ava nt- ga rde Gutai group, is known as one of the most daring and independent experimentalists of the postwar international ar t scene in the 1950s. One of his signature techniques was smashing glass bottles and throwing cups, both filled with paint, on large canvases placed on the floor. He performed this type of visual art live in front of spectators, with his most specatular performances organized by the Morra Foundation in Italy. This event presents a large selection of paintings, including the ar tist’s most famous series of monochromes and bottle crash paintings. Alien Art Centre [Kaohsiung City] www.alien.com.tw

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Until February 9

2019 ASIAN ART BIENNIAL – THE STRANGERS FROM BEYOND THE MOUNTAIN AND THE SEA 2 0 19 亞洲藝術雙年展「來自山與海的異人」

This, the 7th Asian Art Biennial, is curated by Taiwanese artist Hsu Chia-wei and Singaporean artist Ho Tzu-Nyen. Thirty artists/artist collectives from Taiwan and abroad were invited to take part in the biennial. The focus is on “strangers,“ such as migrants, merchants, colonists, smugglers, and other people, that come from “beyond the mountain and the sea.“ The biennial features both existing works and new commissions, many of which are characterized by crossdisciplinary research from which unexpected correspondences and connections have been established. National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts [Taichung City] www.ntmofa.gov.tw

February 19

RUPAUL’S DRAG RACE: WERQ THE WORLD 2020 TOUR 魯保羅變裝皇后秀

RuPaul’s Drag Race is a reality competition produced and hosted by RuPaul Andre Charles, an American drag queen, actor, model, singer, and T V personality. Werq the World is an ongoing tour that features drag queens from that competition. The colorful show, lasting around t wo h o u r s , i s a vi vi d m i x of dancing and lip-sync singing, all done, of course, in elaborate sexy outfits.

Taipei International Convention Center [Taipei City] obpromotion.com

CULTURE A ND A R T

Until March 1

ISLAND TALES: TAIWAN AND AUSTRALIA TAIPEI←→PERTH 小說：雙城計畫 The cities of Taipei and Perth established friendship city relations in 1999. In order to commemorate the past 20 years of connection, the Taipei Fine Arts Museum and the Perth Institute of Contemporary Arts conceived this exhibition to create a platform for interaction and exchange and to tell stories from the two cities. A total of 13 artists from Taiwan and West Australia have been invited to tell stories through their artwork. Taipei Fine Arts Museum [Taipei City] www.tfam.museum

March 17

GREEN DAY LIVE IN TAIPEI 2020 年輕歲月 2 0 2 0 台北演唱會

Formed in 1986, the American rock band Green Day is known for combining the raw power of punk music with melodic pop. The band has sold over 85 million records worldwide and received numerous awards, including five Grammys, and in 2015 was inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. The group is touring East Asia this March, with with one stop in Taipei, where they will play the Taipei Arena. Taipei Arena [Taipei City] www.arena.taipei

Until February 9

TATTOO

刺青 —身之印 Long gone are the times when tattoos were only seen on the skin of sailors, convicts and gangsters, and members of indigenous tribes. Today more than 20% of all Americans, for example, have at least one tattoo. This exhibition gives visitor s an in- depth look into the origins and trends of this artform, presenting both historical as well as conte mpora r y works from dif fe re nt cultures and countries. It presents the artistic dimension of tattooing and its history throughout human culture from its first appearance, and pays homage to contemporary pioneers. Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts [Kaohsiung City] www.kmfa.gov.tw

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M OU NTA INS / QINGJING FA RM & HEHUA NSH A N

Qingjing Farm

Hehuanshan T WO HIGH-MOUNTAIN DESTINATIONS BELOVED BY TOURISTS

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TE X T RICK CH A RE T TE PHOTOS R AY CH A NG , V I S ION

M OU NTA INS / QINGJING FA RM & HEHUA NSH A N

Let’s go on a multi-day trip into the deep central mountains along staggeringly scenic Provincial Highway 14/14a. Soak in the cool alpine vistas and ranch experience at mountainside-hugging Qingjing Farm, one of Taiwan’s most popular recreational farms. Revel in the soaring experience of being almost at eye level with the 3,000m-plus peaks of Hehuanshan at the Wuling pass, Taiwan’s highest public-road point. Tackle beauteous hikes from the easy-access roadside trailhead points.

Mountain scenery in the Qingjing area TR AVEL I N TAIWAN

M OU NTA INS / QINGJING FA RM & HEHUA NSH A N

sland Taiwan’s defining geological characteristic is its towering mountain ranges. Young and still growing rapidly, they’ve been sculpted by the behemoth wrestling of two almighty tectonic-plate players in the great Pacific Rim of Fire drama. Over 250 peaks soar past 3,000 meters. The Taiwan Tourism Bureau has proclaimed this the “Taiwan Year of Mountain Tourism 2020,” and launched a major campaign to brand the island as an international mountaineering tourism destination. The focus is on sustainable mountain tourism, and a series of mountain-trail routes has been designed h ig h lig ht ing Ta iwa n’s u nique ec olog ic a l a nd cultural features. The island’s superb road network delivers smooth access to easy and moderate hikes even up among the higher peaks. There is even public transport – inexpensive and high-quality – from lowland areas to many favorite alpine tourist destinations. In this article we ride the magisterially panoramic New Centra l Cross-Island Highway to t wo of these: Qingjing Farm and, beyond and skyward, Hehuanshan (Mt. Hehuan).

Qingjing Skywalk observation platform

The tourist-oriented farm (altitude around 1,750m) is renowned for its superb mountain vistas, bucolic alpine farmland experience, and great surrounding mountainside-hugging cluster of large, eclectic homestays and inns. And one more thing – its vibrant Baiyi community. The Baiyi or Dai people are from China’s Yunnan Province. When the Chinese Civil War ended in 1949 and the ROC government evacuated to Taiwan, many Kuomintang soldiers were left behind in southwest border areas. In 1961 a group was airlifted from Yunnan to Taiwan; the majority of their wives were from Yunnan minorities, the greatest number Baiyi. One group opened up Qingjing, and today many second-generation community members run restaurants and homestays/inns that give tourists a look into their distinctive Yunnan/Taiwan-mix culture. The climb from Qingjing to the Wuling pass (3,275m) takes about an hour. Almost all manmade structures are left behind; all permanent dwellings seem to be far below you. At the pass itself, close by all about at just above eye level are Hehuanshan’s peaks, their highest slopes free of forest cover, some bare rock. All are accessible via trails, most requiring only moderate fitness. Many visitors are content, however, with simple “park-and-shoot” visits. The pristine area is also highly popular with sunrisers, sunsetters, and stargazers.

Qingjing Skywalk

QINGJING FARM ( 清境農場 ) (049) 280-2748 www.cingjing.gov.tw No. 170, Renhe Rd., Datong Village, Ren'ai Township, Nantou County ( 南投縣仁愛鄉大同村仁和路 170 號 ) Mist Plaza gift options

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Green Green Grassland

Qingjing Farm In recent decades artistically designed skywalks and suspension bridges have become popular tourist draws in mountainous Taiwan, and Qingjing Farm is home to the island’s highest-elevation skywalk, the Qingjing Skywalk (NT$50/adults), opened in 2017. This wide, gleaming-white elevated pathway, dotted with lookouts, flows uphill through the farm for 1.68km, parallel to Highway 14a. The skywalk overlooks a deep valley, with the hot-spring village of Lushan in view far down below and the immortal-dwelling Qilai Ridge laid out in parallel across in the distance, making for the proudest of “Me the Globe-Trekker” panoptic photos and videos to show off back home. Sheep and the farm’s working horses graze on the steep pastureland underneath, and birds of dazzling color flit about at eye level in the walkway-side treetops. On this trip’s skywalk meander, the star alpine avians sighted were the Collared finchbill, Taiwan hwamei, Formosan laughing thrush, and Vinaceus rosefinch. The farm’s other highlight attraction is the Green Green Grassland (NT$160/adults), where sheep and cattle (the latter seen less often) munch on rolling mountaintop pastureland. All about are tall-peak

panoramas. The sheep and the human skills required to tend them were introduced decades back by government-hired Australian ranchers. Visitors can buy feed for the animals, and there are daily sheep-shearing/sheep-dog shows and horse-riding shows. Horses are also brought out for display, and kids thrill at the chance to take rides on Shetland ponies. The shearing demonstrations are put on by Australian pros. The horse-acrobatics show, by a brilliantly garbed, deftly talented Mongolian troupe, happens in a circular semi-outdoor theater and is at times little short of death-defying. The most breathtaking of many dangerous feats features a muscular rider launching arrows at a target with deadly accuracy, sometimes facing backwards, as he gallops headlong in tight circles. The main Qingjing center for food and gift/souvenir shopping is the sizable two-level highway-side Mist Plaza, which has 7-ELEVEN, MOS Café, and Starbucks outlets. Among its gift & souvenir operations are boutiques selling essential oils and scented soaps as well as delicious handmade mochi and nougat candy crafted with locally-sourced ingredients.

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Hehuanshan The Wuling pass is the one place that almost every Hehuanshan visitor checks off. There’s a cliffside parking lot on one highway side and a large lookout deck (public bathrooms beside it) on the other, looking out at the East Peak on the left (east), Main Peak on the right (west/northwest), and deep, empty space in front. Stretching off southwards toward the horizon from beyond the East Peak is the titanic Qilai Ridge, its ridge-top trail passage a rite of passage for serious island hikers. Abundant signage with good English at Hehuanshan vehicle-stop points and along trails explains what you’re looking at.

3158 Café

Hehuanshan’s peaks are among Taiwan’s “Top 100 Mountains,” a list of summits above 3,000m selected by local hiking experts based on their uniqueness, visual allure, and prominence. Few have climbed all 100. Hehuanshan’s are among the most accessible, with the Main Peak among the easiest to conquer. The 1.8km (one way) Hehuanshan Main Peak Trail, which has a few sections of moderate steepness, starts right at highway-side about a kilometer down-road from the Wuling pass, back toward Qingjing. There’s no parking here, nor a bus stop; find these at the Wuling pass facility. Save for a section at the very top – the Main Peak is 3,417m high – where wooden stairs and a wooden lookout have been erected (washroom facilities also available), the “trail” is an old, narrow, now-crumbling paved roadway created by the military. The soldiers withdrew from Hehuanshan in 2000, with the formerly off-limits areas opened to the public. On the Main Peak ascent you’ll see old camouflaged pillboxes built right into the slate cliffs, and an abandoned, wind-protected barracks camp in a basin down the east slope that’s also in full view from the Wuling parking lot. Central Cross-Island Highway

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Only minimal forest cover is encountered. This is a place of low-growing alpine vegetation, decorated with the pastel-blossom beauties of such tough gems as the Yushan rhododendron, Yushan rose, high-mountain juniper, and hawkweed oxtongue. The peak was largely denuded during its military-service years, and much of what you see is thanks to a major erosionprevention phytoremediation campaign, with 36 species of native alpine plants introduced/reintroduced. Hehuanshan is the headwater source for two important Taiwan rivers: the Zhuoshui, which flows west to the Taiwan Strait, and the Liwu, which flows east and, on its way, has carved out the celebrated Taroko Gorge. On clear days the Liwu pointof-empty into the Pacific can be espied from the Main Peak. The stream that becomes the muddy Zhuoshui can clearly be seen forming on the almost vertical East Peak's west face. To the south, far beyond the Qilai Ridge, iconic titans such as Yushan (Mt. Jade) and Nenggaoshan (Mt. Nenggao) make appearances.

On the way to the main peak of Mt. Hehuan

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After your first Hehuanshan hike, a good mug of fresh-brew coffee will go down like liquid manna, and said mug and java is close at hand at the 3158 Café, just east of the Wuling pass at the roadside trailhead for the short, steep Hehuan Horn Peak ascent. The coffee is high-altitude flavorsome, and since this is billed as Taiwan’s highest coffee joint – the “3158” refers to the location’s altitude – what better take-home souvenir than the mug you drink from? Your coffee is NT$150; NT$100 is returned if mug is returned. Hot snacks such as zongzi (rice dumplings wrapped in bamboo leaves) and baozi (steamed buns) are also available.

The final forest section is rugged, requiring short, steep ascents via wooden ladders and holding on to thick knotted ropes while looking for exposed-root footholds. Then, immediately after your last ascent, you pop out into an open-vista world of Yushan cane covering a flattish section of eroded mountainside that resembles undulating waves, the top of Xiaoqilai just a few score meters above you on the right, razor-edge Mt. Qilai laid out in all its glory directly before you. The end of the Xiaoqilai Trail is the beginning of the supremely more challenging Qilai Ridge trail system.

The café is perched on Hehuanshan’s east-facing side, looking out toward the Taroko Gorge and Pacific Ocean. Warm air swooping up from the coast often create heavy, roiling romantic mist on this face. Also hugging the high slope here, diagonally across the highway from the café, is the famed Songxue Lodge, Taiwan’s highest place of accommodation. Just behind it is the start-point of the 1.4km (one way) Xiaoqilai Trail, which traverses the east face in a southerly direction searching for the minor peak called Xiaoqilai, “Little Qilai.” This is just beyond the Mt. Hehuan massif, on its southeast. Also behind the lodge is the Hehuanshan East Peak trailhead. Before sta r ting t he X iaoqi la i hi ke, look up towa rd t he East Peak. You’ll see the rusted tower-and-cable remains of a 400m-long ski run once used for special forces training in the days when the Kuomintang government had dreams of retaking the China mainland.

Hehuanshan is among Taiwan’s best and easily accessible locations to watch the spark ling night sk y. Just last year the International Dark-Sky Association (IDA) declared the mountain Taiwan’s first International Dark Sky Park, joining only two others in Asia, in South Korea and Japan. The Hehuan Mountain Dark Sky Park honor was bestowed after concerted effort by the Taiwan Dark Sky Protection Alliance, Nantou County Government, and Taroko National Park and Forestry Bureau administrations to minimize area light pollution and meet IDA requisites. Special pre-dawn stargazing bus tours are available from Qingjing (visit www.travelbus.tw).

The Xiaoqilai Trail’s initial section is open, dominated by Yushan cane, which grows 2~3m high, and bright alpine f lowers. The landscape then transitions, and you enter a dark forest of tall Taiwan white fir characterized by rimrod-straight trunks, the path undulating uphill and downhill. The Hehuanshan area’s high-altitude ecosystem is far simpler than those found at lower elevations. The patchy coniferous black forest, with Taiwan white fir the predominant species, fights for turf with Yushan cane. Their border zones are abrupt, creating a dramatic two-tone visual canvas, especially when viewed from afar. The bands seen in this area demarcate the forest line – i.e., they are the upper limit for Taiwan white fir. Clear-sky winter night at Mt. Hehuan

(photo courtesy Nantou County Gov't)

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Xiaoqilai Trail

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The Old England Manor afternoon tea

Afternoon Tea, Anyone? Qingjing has been dubbed “Foggy Eden,” and its ambience has also given rise to another moniker that has taken deeper hold with the general public, “Little Switzerland.” As you approach the mountaintop-hugging enclave from the lowlands you’ll notice that the architecture, with the multistory homestays/inns prominent, has a distinctive European-manor flavor. This movement was kickstarted with the building, and instant island-wide renown, of a large inn called The Old England Manor in 2009. In the years since then, the enjoyment of afternoon tea has become a Taiwan fad, and The Old England Manor and other Qingjing establishments add sublime “upin-the-heavens” tableaux to the experience. The impressive Tudor manor-style complex is the realized dream of a Taiwan flatlander who fell in love with old English-style architecture while resident in the small anglophile Canadian city of Victoria. At the same time harboring a love for Qingjing’s transcendental surroundings, he wanted to encourage a more genteel demeanor for the community, which to that point was dominated by accommodations and eateries of a more rustic nature. The Old England Manor introduced the afternoon tea tradition to Qingjing, and its service remains the most popular. Served 11:30am~4pm (NT$500 per serving) in its plush chandeliered restaurant, its English-style tea features Earl Grey Tea and a merry-goround of delicacies, created by a dessert master, served on a three-tiered tray. Changed seasonally, the treats go from savory at bottom to sweet at top, ranging from (on this Travel in Taiwan trip) a schweinshaxe mini-kebab and bacon scallion Danish pastry to a canelé and macaron. 20

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The Old England Manor

While The Old England Manor faces the mighty Qilai Ridge to the east, the Impression Nordic Manor Club faces southwest toward the indigenous village of Wushe, the deep Wushe Reservoir below, and the mountain-basin town of Puli far beyond, back down along the river-valley route that brought you up from the western plains. The façade of this inn is modernistic with Tudor-style flourishes; inside and on the large outdoor deck with infinity pool, the lines are Scandinavian-clean. While The Old England Manor immerses you in sumptuous, quiet-inspiring Victorian-style trappings, the Impression Nordic has a congenial party atmosphere – captured in the use of “club” in the name – with a puttinggreen facility, a slide hill, and a large gym joining the deck/infinity pool.

Impression Nordic Manor Club pool

Impression Nordic Manor Club lobby

The bright, sunny first-floor restaurant looks out directly over the deck/pool area. Afternoon tea, which features a full buffet set-up, is served 3~5pm (NT$900 per person). The panoply of delectables includes tangerine smoked duck mini-toast, smoked salmon rolls, yogurt shrimp mini-toast, spaghetti marinara (and alfredo), ham and cheese finger sandwiches, European-style cookies, fresh fruit and juices, and numerous other selections. And as at The Old England Manor, fresh-brew premium coffee is available. As well, imported wine and whisky are displayed in chiller buckets on the buffet bar for diners’ gratis enjoyment. This generous “party club” spirit is also in evidence in the evening, when gratis wines and spirits are made available to guests in the deck/pool area. THE OLD ENGLAND MANOR ( ��老英格蘭�� ) (049) 280-2166 theoldengland.com No. 20-3, Shouting Lane, Datong Village, Ren'ai Township, Nantou County ( 南投縣仁愛鄉大同村壽亭巷 20-3 號 ) IMPRESSION NORDIC MANOR CLUB ( 印象北歐 ) (049) 280-3982 impression-nordic.com.tw No. 9-9, Rongguang Lane, Datong Village, Ren'ai Township, Nantou County ( 南投縣仁愛鄉大同村榮光巷 9-9 號 )

Note: Reservations are advised for afternoon tea on weekends/holidays.

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A Bonus Recommendation Duo Travel in Taiwan resea rch tea ms never overnight or eat at the same establishment twice, to maximize our sample base. Adding to those places already mentioned above, here are two bonus recommendations that extratickled our team’s collective fancy on the trip for this article. Le Retour Du Printemps Villa, located down the mountainside from the Impression Nordic, is more in the traditional Qingjing “homestay” style. Rooms are clean, large, and spartan, and amenities limited. There is no restaurant; a Chinese-style breakfast (congee, baozi, etc.) is ser ved in the lobby area, where there is a TV/living room corner that owner-family members also use. The young building’s shape and façade echo Qingjing’s

English-manor theme in highly simplified form, and guests love the unusually large outdoor deck directly before it, with a footprint almost as large as the building itself, decked out with such inviting amenities as a rest canopied couch nook and a canopied outdoor bed, perfect for big-view mountain and starlight viewing. Chicken King, which serves inexpensive, hea r t y countr y-st yle fa re, is a more traditional Taiwanese banquet-hall-style restaurant that extends out on a platform over a Qilai Ridge-facing high slope. Its signature dish is whole charcoal-roast range chicken. Our most liked among its many others were the medicinal pork-rib soup and spicy pickled cabbage. Le Retour Du Printemps Villa dining room

Le Retour Du Printemps Villa outdoor deck

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Le Retour Du Printemps Villa guestroom

Chicken King

PRACTICAL INFORMATION If self-driving, Qingjing is about 3.5hrs from Taipei, 1.5hrs from central Taichung. A 2~3-day trip is recommended to properly enjoy what Qingjing/Hehuanshan have to offer, the 2-day option more realistic if flatlands Taichung is your base. If using public transportation, from Taipei the E-Go tourist-bus company (e-go. com.tw; Chinese) has daily departures from Taipei Railway Station to Qingjing. From there, choose from their tour-bus outings around Qingjing Farm and to Hehuanshan and other area spots. Also check out the Chingjing-Hehuan Sightseeing Commentary Limousine service (travelbus.com.tw; Chinese), which operates sunrise, sunset, and starlight-viewing Hehuanshan outings operating bright-red imported European sightseeing buses that resemble streetcars. From Taichung, take Nantou Bus (www.ntbus.com.tw; Chinese) bus no. 6670 from the Taichung regular-rail or high-speed rail station to the major foothills town of Puli, then transfer to Nantou Bus no. 6659, 6658, or 6664 to Qingjing Farm. A direct bus from flatlands to Hehuanshan is also available; Fengyuan Bus (fybus. com.tw; Chinese) bus no. 6506 runs once a day between Fengyuan Railway Station in Fengyuan District (northeast of central Taichung) and the fruit-growing alpine town of Lishan, crossing the Wuling pass along the way. Another bus-travel option is the Taiwan Tour Bus (taiwantourbus.com.tw) service, vetted by the Taiwan Tourism Bureau.

LE RETOUR DU PRINTEMPS VILLA ( 春雨行館 ) (049) 280-3789 lrdp.com.tw No. 46-2, Rongguang Lane, Datong Village, Ren'ai Township, Nantou County ( 南投縣仁愛鄉大同村榮光巷 46-2 號 ) CHICKEN KING ( 雞大王 ) (049) 280-2688 chickenking.tw (Chinese) No. 224-3, Renhe Rd., Datong Village, Ren'ai Township, Nantou County ( 南投縣仁愛鄉大同村仁和路 224 號附 3)

Mt. Hehuan Main Peak Wuling

Taiwan

Xiaoqilai Trail

14A

Qingjing Farm Qingjing Skywalk The Old England Manor

ENGLISH AND CHINESE Baiyi 擺夷 baozi 包子 Green Green Grassland 青青草原 Hehuanshan 合歡山 Hehuan Horn Peak 合歡尖山 Hehuanshan Main Peak Trail 合歡山主峰步道 Hehuan Mountain Dark Sky Park 合歡山暗空公園

Nantou County Hualien County

Lushan 廬山 Mist Plaza 清境商場 Qilai Ridge 奇萊稜線 Qingjing Skywalk 清境高空步道 Songxue Lodge 松雪樓 Wuling 武嶺 Xiaoqilai Trail 小奇萊步道 zongzi 粽子

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Taipingshan Qilan Yilan City TE X T OWA IN MCK IMM

PHOTOS AS K A CHI

The county of Yilan, located in Taiwan’s northeast corner, is a place of very varied character indeed. Facing the Pacific Ocean, it has surf beaches and fishing harbors. Further inland you’ll find flat plain land with rice paddies and history-rich settlements. Head to the girding mountains and you’ll enter a wonder world of coniferous forest, home to centuries-old tree giants.

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The Lanyang River valley seen on the way to Taipingshan

ost v i sitor s to Yi l a n sp end t hei r t i me i n t he characterful towns that speckle the large, triangular L a nya ng Pla in, which dominates the count y's northeastern corner. They enjoy the hot-spring hotels at Jiaoxi, the night market at Luodong, the cycling routes of Dongshan, and the cultural heritage of Yilan City, before heading home stuffed with such iconic local snack treats as scallion pancakes and ox-tongue cookies. But there's more to Yilan than just what that plain has to offer, and following the Lanyang River up into the mountains brings you to a vastly different environment. Moisture-laden sea breezes

that condense as they rise among the mountainous terrain and a rapid elevation that quickly reaches almost 2,500m above sea level create the perfect conditions for temperate tree species, resulting in a vast primeval forest of cypress, pine, maple, and cedar – many of them centuries old – that cover the mist-shrouded slopes. The Taipingshan National Forest Recreation Area, to the south of the river, and the Qilan Forest Recreation Area, to the north, offer access to this stunning topographical and ecological smorgasbord via an abundance of trails, walks, hot springs, and lakes – enough to easily fill a two- or three-day itinerary, with a leisurely day of winding down in Yilan City to pleasantly round off the trip. TR AVEL I N TAIWAN

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Taipingshan National Forest Recreation Area The Taipingshan National Forest Recreation Area (tps.forest.gov. tw; entrance fee: NT$150 Mon-Fri; NT$200 weekends/holidays) is the more bounteous of the two recreation areas in terms of the sheer number of nature trails, hikes, and opportunities for exploring and nature-watching. In the not-too-distant past, Taipingshan – a 12,000ha expanse of dense forest, much of which is located between 1,500m and 2,500m above sea level – was best known as a logging area. In 1914, the Japanese (who controlled Taiwan as a colony from 1895 to 1945) began operations to harvest the centuries- and sometimes millennia-old cypress trees that grew here. Logging was finally banned in 1982, and you can learn about some of the industry's history at the Taipingshan Villa Service Station in the recreation area’s main facilities sector. Climbing the stone stairs to the right of the station brings you to a café and restaurant, the latter serving seven-dish set meals made with fresh local produce for NT$250 per head. At the top of the stairs (lined with Japanese maple trees, whose leaves turn a rich burgundy-red in autumn), you'll find one of the recreation area’s many trails – the Primitive Cypress Forest Trail, an easy 30-minute walk taking you through the intertwining canopies and twisting roots of members of Taiwan's two endemic cypress species (C. obtuse var. formosana and C. formosensis). Beyond this trail is the Chinese Hemlock Nature Trail, a longer and more challenging walk through largely coniferous forest which also contains several broadleaf species such as the Formosan rhododendron, with the viewing platform at the trail’s tail-end providing beautiful views of Taipingshan's breathtaking sea of clouds phenomenon.

On a forest walk near Maoxing Station

Jiuzhize Hot Springs

Taipingshan forest

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Taipingshan's Bong-Bong Train

Aside from hiking, one of the most popular activities at this recreation area is taking a ride on the Bong-Bong Train – a working relic from the old logging days. Its onomatopoeic name derives from the sound it made as it trundled log-laden along the snaking narrowgauge rail track to nearby Maoxing Station, a bit higher in the mountains. The trains, now carrying tourists, run hourly from 7:30am until 2:30pm, and tickets cost NT$180 for a round trip. The journey to Maoxing takes roughly 20 minutes, the train twisting and turning along the mountainside through, on many days, dense mist that reveals only ghostly impressions of the forested ridges and slopes that lie beyond. Arriving at Maoxing Station, you'll have around an hour to explore before the return tra in, which is plent y of time to ma ke a 28

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thorough exploration of the area by walking the Maoxing Reminiscent Trail – a 900m path that follows and encircles the old train tracks. The forest around here once yielded around 3,000 cubic meters of wood per hectare. Today, a dense forest of new-growth cypresses, cedars, and firs exists in place of those felled ancients, whose gigantic stumps loom from within the mist like the ruined towers of some long-lost city. Having thoroughly explored the main area, you can extend your exploration to Taipingshan’s further reaches by driving an additional 17km up the mountain towards Cuifeng Lake – Ta iwa n's la rgest a lpine la ke, which when swollen by the runoff from the surrounding mountains covers 25ha and plunges 7m deep. A 3.9km trail circles the water, allowing you

Tree giant in the Divine Trees Garden

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to take in the Japanese cedar, Taiwanese red pine, and Taiwania on its western, northern, and southeastern sides. The nearby 3.8km Taiwan Beech Trail traces a path through a pure forest area of rare Taiwan beech, the leaves of which turn from a bright pea-green in summer to a vibrant canary-yellow in autumn. If your appetite for trails is still not sated, another popular trail – the Jianqing Historic Trail, built over old sections of Japanese-constructed forest railroad – can be found by heading 2km down the mountain from the main recreation area. The “Jianqing” in the trail's name literally means “clear sky,” and refers to the spontaneous breaks in cloud that occur along the trail’s length, letting you take in the vivid oscillating outline of the Xueshan (Snow Mountain) Range to the west. To soothe your aching legs and tired feet, a highly recommended final stop is the Jiuzhize Hot Springs, situated further down-mountain near the recreation area’s ticket booth. Here, paleblue alkaline sodium bicarbonate water bubbles from deep beneath the earth at temperatures of up to 140°C, its steam rising in giant white plumes from the boiling wells. The spa has both outdoor pools and private bathhouses, and prices range from NT$150 for access to the outdoor pool in summer to NT$700 for a private two-person bathhouse during winter. If you're peckish, you can rustle up some grub in the cooking area, where eggs and corn purchased in the visitor center shop can be boiled in specially designated springs.

ACCOMMODATION Overnight accommodation is available in the Taipingshan Villa (in the main recreation area) or in a separate villa near Cuifeng Lake. Prices range from NT$3,900 for a double to NT$9,800 for an eightperson room. Rooms can be booked via the recreation area's website https://tpsr.forest.gov.tw. Since rooms are in high demand, booking weeks before visiting is strongly recommended.

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Cabins in the Qilan Forest Recreation Area

Qilan Forest Recreation Area A few kilometers from the entrance to the Taipingshan National Forest Recreation Area, on the north side of the Lanyang River where the Tiangou and Tuchang tributaries empty into it at the base of Taipingshan, lies Qilan (also written “Cilan;” entrance fee: NT$80 Mon-Fri; NT$150 weekends/holidays). This is another forest recreation area, which marks the southern point of the Makau Ecological Park, a largely restricted area of natural beauty only accessible via the Qilan Forest Recreation Area and the Mingchi Forest Recreation Area further north on Provincial Highway 7 (the Northern Cross-Island Highway). In the recreation area, the Qilan Resort is comprised of a European-style villa and wood cabins where visitors can stay the night, a hot-spring spa that's free for these guests, several gardens and flower-viewing walks, and a restaurant serving a Chinese-style buffet for breakfast and set menus featuring dishes such as stir-fried crab, mapo tofu, and scrambled eggs with spring onion for lunch and dinner. The centerpiece of the recreation area is Chiang Kai-shek's Chateau – a former holiday residence of the late ROC president and his wife. The meticulously preserved rooms, large framed family photos, and eclectic relics (such as CKS's high-school geometry homework) allow for a small but uniquely domestic glimpse into the life of this historic figure. Behind the villa lies a 2.1k m loop trail through fern-rich subtropical forest that ends in the Historic A rea of Veteran’s Forestr y, where several examples of logging-era machinery are preserved. You are free to explore the recreation area yourself; however, a free Chinese-language guided tour is also available, starting daily at 8am and 2:30pm at the reception office. Old tree trunk resembling a Formosan black bear 30

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Qilan Villa

Undoubtedly, though, the highlight of a visit to Qilan is the opportunity to visit the Divine Trees Garden area of the Makau Ecological Park. “Divine” or “sacred” is the honorific given in Taiwan to trees over 1,000 years old (whereas those between 500 and 1,000 are called jumu – “giant trees”). The garden in question contains nearly 100 giant and sacred endemic cypress trees, 51 of which have been named after figures in Chinese history who share their birth year. The oldest, Confucius, is a 40.8-meter-tall Taiwan red cypress “born” in 551BC, while Guanyu – a famous general whose exploits are recorded in the Chinese classic The Romance of the Three Kingdoms – is a 29.5-meter-tall Formosan hinoki cypress that erupted from the ground in 162AD. The Divine Trees Garden is a controlled area deep into the mountains, and access is only permitted as part of a tour from either the Qilan or Mingchi resort. Three shuttle buses are scheduled each day from Qilan, at 7:50am, 10:30am, and 1:20am, with tickets costing NT$570 for overnight guests and NT$770 for independent visitors. The entire circuit, accompanied by a Chinese-language guide, takes around two hours, though you can explore the route by yourself if you prefer. The area sees rain 250 days per year, so bring an umbrella or raincoat. However, don't be put off by any inclement weather; the wispy tendrils of mist that permeate the garden bestows the environs with a dream-like quality that if anything enhances the experience.

Twin villa room QILAN RESORT ( �� ) (03) 980-9606 No. 6, Sec. 4, Taiya Rd., Taiping Village, Datong Township, Yilan County ( ��縣大同鄉�平村��路 4 � 6 號 ) ACCOMMODATION Staying the night in the recreation area's villa or one of its cabins costs from NT$4,400 for a twin/double villa room to NT$11,100 for an eight-person cabin. Rooms are large and comfortable, with a rustic, log-cabin feel. For more information about both the Qilan and Mingchi resorts, and to make bookings, visit makauy.lealeahotel.com.

Mingchi Forest Recreation Area 7 7

Taoyuan City

Qilan Divine Trees Garden Qilan Forest Recreation Area

Jiuzhize (Renze) Hot Springs

Yilan County Cuifeng Lake

Taipingshan National Forest Recreation Area

Maoxing Bong-Bong Train Station

Chinese-style set meal

Taiwan

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Eno Café

Hang Khau Hotel

Eno Café

Yilan City Yilan Literary Museum

Shen Nong Village

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Heading into Yilan City after two days of strenuous walking, the overwhelming temptation is to take it easy and enjoy a leisurely tea or coffee in one of its charming cafés. A refined, cultured ambiance can be found at the Yila n Litera r y Museum, which despite its name is not in fact a museum but a Japanese-style teahouse, replete with low tables, sliding panel doors, and a tatami-covered floor for sitting. The building itself, built in 1926, originally served as a residence for the former headmaster of the local agricultural school. But after being designated a historical building and restored to its former glory, in 2011 it was opened as a space where the aspiring literati of Yilan City – which has a tradition of producing some of Taiwan's finest authors – can read, sip fragrant tea, muse, and produce creative work in a peaceful, elegant walled-courtyard setting away from the busy streets and sounds of roaring scooters.

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Relaxing on the soft straw tatami and soaking in the literary atmosphere, you can sample a delicious tea of fragrant osmanthus honey dissolved in hot water and a plate of finger snacks consisting of crisp dried broad beans and tang y, dehydrated starfruit. If, on the other hand, sipping artisanal coffee is more your thing, Eno Café, tucked into an alley in the city's south-side university district, is a thoroughly pleasant place to spend an afternoon. Spanning two floors in a renovated old house, the café specializes in serving single-origin coffees from growing regions around the world. Though the menu is extensive, the best thing to do on arrival is to chat with the barista, as new bean varieties (which often don't make it onto the menu) are regularly imported to satisfy its customers' demands for unusual and exciting brews. The coffee is served in an aesthetically varied selection of cups, picked up on the owner's global travels, and servings come with a full glass tumbler on the side, from which you can refill your own glass or pour some out for your friends to sample. After finishing your afternoon pick-me-up, you can spend the rest of the day wandering the city's old neighborhoods and parks until the Dongmen Night Market comes alive around dusk. A pleasant stroll not too far from the market can be taken at Jimmy Square – once an old railway-staff dormitory complex, now transformed into a roadside plaza dedicated to the art of Jimmy Liao, probably Taiwan's most famous illustrator and picture book creator. An Yilan native, Jimmy's wistful, dreamlike artwork, in which his young round-faced characters often embark on strange, fabulistic journeys, can be seen all over Taiwan. Here, life-sized models, large murals, and suspended installations allow you to immerse yourself in the world of Jimmy's imagination. ENGLISH AND CHINESE Bong-Bong Train 蹦蹦車 Chiang Kai-shek's Chateau 蔣公行館 Chinese Hemlock Nature Trail 鐵杉林自然步道 Cuifeng Lake 翠峰湖 Divine Trees Garden 神木園 Historic Area of Veteran's Forestry 榮民林業史蹟園區 Jianqing Historic Trail 見晴懷古步道 Jimmy Liao 廖福彬 Jimmy Square 幾米廣場 Jiuzhize Hot Springs 鳩之澤溫泉 jumu 巨木 Lanyang Plain 蘭陽平原 Lanyang River 蘭陽溪 Makau Ecological Park 馬告生態公園 Maoxing Reminiscent Trail 茂興懷舊步道 Maoxing Station 茂興站 Mingchi Forest Recreation Area 明池森林遊樂區 Primeval Cypress Forest Trail 檜木原始林步道 Primitive Cypress Forest Trail 原始林步道入口 Qilan Forest Recreation Area 棲蘭森林遊樂區 shenmu 神木 Taipingshan National Forest Recreation Area 太平山國家森林遊樂區 Taipingshan Villa Service Station 太平山莊服務站 Taiwan Beech Trail 台灣山毛櫸步道

ACCOMMODATION Though Yilan County is famous for the quirky guesthouses that punctuate the farmland surrounding its main city and nearby towns, there are also excellent options for overnight accommodation in Yilan City itself. Shen Nong Village, a 10-minute walk from Yilan Railway Station, was once a dormitory for the staff of the local grain bureau. The building now houses a youth hostel, bistro, and several indie shops, all with a distinctly Bohemian vibe. The hostel offers beds in four-person segregated dorms as well as private double rooms for NT$650 and NT$1,500 per night, respectively. SHEN NONG VILLAGE ( 神農青舍 ) (03) 935-2770 shennongvillage.com No. 96, Sec. 2 Shennong Rd., Yilan City, Yilan County ( 宜蘭縣宜蘭市神農路二段 96 號 ) Situated a short distance down a street that starts just opposite the station, in what was once an old warehouse district, the Hang Khau Hotel, too, has an interesting history. During the 1960s it was one of the most striking hotels in all of Yilan, towering over the neighboring buildings and providing highend accommodation for logging magnates and wood traders. In 2014, the by-then derelict building was repurchased and renovated, and a few years later was reopened as a modern hotel and café. Rooms on offer include a 10-person mixed dorm, standard doubles, and family rooms with prices ranging from NT$660 to NT$3,600 per night. HANG KHAU HOTEL ( 行口文旅 ) (03) 936-3610 hangkhauhotel.com No. 14, Kangle Rd., Yilan City, Yilan County ( 宜蘭縣宜蘭市康樂路14號 ) YILAN LITERARY MUSEUM ( 宜蘭文學舘 ) (03) 932-4349 9am-5pm, closed on Mondays No. 19, Xianfu 2nd Ln., Jiucheng S. Rd., Yilan City, Yilan County ( 宜蘭縣宜蘭市舊城南路縣府二巷 19 號 ) ENO CAFÉ ( 一弄咖啡 ) (03) 935-2589 11am-8pm, closed on Wednesdays No. 2, Aly. 1, Ln. 151, Jinshi Rd., Yilan City, Yilan County ( 宜蘭縣宜蘭市進士路 151 巷 1 弄 2 號 ) GETTING THERE & AROUND Self-Drive From Taipei, take National Highway 5 to Yilan County. Then take Provincial Highway 7 and 7a (7 甲 ) to the Qilan Forest Recreation Area. For Taipingshan, go past Qilan, turn right after the Jiayuan Bridge (which crosses the Lanyang River), and follow the road up the mountain to the Taipingshan area. By Shuttle The Qilan Resort offers a daily shuttle bus from Taipei Main Station (9am, from East Exit 3) and Yilan Railway Station (10:30am), arriving in Qilan at 11:50am and departing back to Taipei at 4pm and 6pm. (Fare from Taipei: NT$400 for guests; NT$500 for independent visitors; reservations must be made in advance by calling (02) 2515-2128.) By Bus Kuo-Kuang Motor Transport (www.kingbus.com.tw) offers one bus per day between Yilan City and Taipingshan (No. 1750; 7:40am from Yilan City; 2:30pm from Taipingshan; NT$243 one way). The bus also stops at Qilan. Other Kuo-Kuang buses from Yilan City to Qilan are No. 1744 (3pm), 1745 (3:15pm), and 1751 (7:30am and 12:40pm).

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Taiwan,

TE X T RICK CH A RE T TE PHOTOS R AY CH A NG , V I S ION

the Cathedral of Mountains Hiking Adventures that Will Uplift Your Spirit

Yushan National Park

A “how do you do” for three hiking destinations in southern Taiwan you may well, in just a few moments, be adding to the bucket list that shall define your life: Yushan, Alishan, and Jiaming Lake.

eing a military-history buff, I used to think of the island of Taiwan as an unsinkable ship, a giant aircraft carrier anchored in the oft un-pacific waters of the Pacific just off the East Asia land mass. But after so many international flights down onto and up off her deck over my many years here, the views through aircraft windows filled up with the magnificence of her dense canopy of cloud-piercing mountaintops, I see her now as a “cathedral of mountains,” her 268 spikes soaring past 3,000 meters, heaven-bound, the spires of a tremendous monument built by Mother Nature the architect and artist. A Google Map satellite-view overlook of this land shows an

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island stuffed with ranges running generally north-south in tight formation, taking up almost 70% of her available space. Yet despite her ruggedness, you can be up from f latlands launch-points to trailheads in even the highest reaches within just a half-day or so – trailheads for most of the many hundreds of well-maintained mountain routes in places where dedicated public services are readily available. That's because Taiwan’s thick forest of mountains is covered by a dense web of national scenic areas (run by the Taiwan Tourism Bureau), national parks, and national forest recreation areas. Below is a “preamble ramble” primer for three of the most popular locations with local and foreign hiking enthusiasts.

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Hiking in the Yushan National Park (photo by Icey Tsui)

Yushan Yushan (Mt. Jade) is the titanic multi-pointed anchor of the Yushan Range, and of the Yushan National Park. This park, large sections of which also lie within the adjacent Central Mountain Range (Taiwan’s largest), is home to over 30 peaks topping out at 3,000m-plus in elevation. Two-thirds of the park’s total area is above 2,000m. The Main Peak, one of the mountain massif ’s 11, tops out at 3,952m above sea level, making it northeast Asia’s highest summit. Yes, taller than Japan’s great Mt. Fuji. Little wonder, then, why in times past the Japanese called Taiwan “Mountain Island.” The name “Yushan/ Mt. Jade” arose in the same misty times among jadeloving Chinese plying the Taiwan Strait, referring to the giant’s hue when seen from afar. Being Taiwan’s most famous mountain, Yushan is naturally also among the most popular hikes, and is

of course among its “Top 100 Mountains,” a list of 3,000m-plus summits selected by local hiking experts based on their uniqueness, visual allure, and prominence. Hikers require good fitness, though the ascent is among the easiest to Taiwan’s highest peaks, and there is some exposure to heights. Hikes are generally one or two days, with more than one summit tackled, the single-day ascent requiring a demanding 10-12 hours of hiking, with a very early start. The launch-point is at Tatajia (Tataka), a small hamlet where the national park visitor center is located; there’s a small, basic, comfy hotel here (up to five in a room; single beds). Trekkers on the two-day climb spend their on-trail night at the simple, rustic Paiyun Cabin (barracks-style bunks), and get up early to catch the glorious sunrise on the Main Peak. The gain in altitude from trailhead to Main Peak is 1,700m.

PRACTICALITIES Take Yuanlin Bus company's No. 6739 bus from Sun Moon Lake (at Shuishe Visitor Center) or the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area (at 7-Eleven in main car park) to Tatajia (Note: reservation online required; www.ylbus.com.tw/news/index. php?m=901&p=1000; Chinese). For more information, visit the Yushan National Park website (www.ysnp.gov.tw). IMPORTANT It is crucial to check the dedicated websites identiﬁed in this article for details on relevant fees, permits, booking of mountain cabin space etc. Note as well that there are quality outdoor-adventure outﬁts at the ready with trained English-speaking guides. Contact the Taiwan Tourism Bureau for guidance (taiwan.net.tw).

Mt. Jade

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Alishan Readers looking for easier lower-altitude adventures should consider the A lisha n Nationa l Scenic Area, which has the older Alishan National Forest Recreation Area at its heart. All of Taiwan’s many national forest recreation areas were originally logging sites developed by the Japanese when they controlled Taiwan from 1895 to 1945. Alishan is one of Taiwan’s most popular mountain-and-forest destinations, known for its soaring conifer stands, “sacred trees,” tea farms, “seas of clouds” phenomenon, Tsou tribe culture – and great network of trails. It is located very close to Yushan; the Alishan Range and Yushan Range are separated by the Qishan River. The main trail in the forest recreation area, which is spread out around the 2,200m level, is a kilometers-long loop (with short side trails) that, among multifarious images of natura l beaut y, presents the Giant Tree Trails, featuring dozens of massive ancient red cypresses, the forest-surrounded Sisters Ponds, said to be named after two native maidens who long ago drowned themselves to avoid a forced marriage, and the fantasy-like ThreeAlishan Forest Recreation Area

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Generations Tree, with a living tree growing from a now-dead tree that grew from another now-dead 1,500-year-old giant.

Alishan Forest Railway

Among the scores of other appealing trails found throughout the national scenic area – moderate level of fitness required, and protective railings located wherever there is exposure to heights – the northern part’s 3.3km Zhukeng Stream Trail and 2km Youth Ridge Trail are perhaps most popular. The former passes over 12 bridges, each of different design, and there are a number of cataracts, the grand prize being the 120m-high Longgong Waterfall. The highlights of the latter are the 1,000m-long Haohan (“Hero”) Slope, which has an average grade of 60 degrees (wooden stairs here), the Bat Cave, its countless bat-roost holes formed by river erosion, and the mesmerizingly striated Swallow Cliff, also erosion-sculpted, its softer sandstone levels wearing away faster than the harder shale. PRACTICALITIES To get to the forest recreation area, with stops elsewhere in the national scenic area along the way, take a Taiwan Tourist Shuttle bus (www.taiwantrip.com.tw; Alishan Route) from Chiayi's high-speed rail or regular-rail station. For more information, visit the national scenic area (www.ali-nsa.net) or forest recreation area (recreation.forest. gov.tw) websites.

Jiaming Lake Considered one of Taiwan’s most scenic alpine lakes, this is the secondhighest mountain lake on the island, found in the Central Mountain Range at a heavenly altitude of 3,520m. It’s also one of the largest, measuring 120m across at its widest point. It was long thought that this shallow, roundish geofeature was created by a meteor strike, but the current consensus is glaciermovement formation during the last ice age. An apt alternate moniker is “Angel’s Teardrop,” referring to its shape and sapphire-blue hue. The Jiaming Lake National Trail entrance is within the Xiangyang National Forest Recreation Area, accessed via the Southern Cross-Island Highway (Provincial Highway 20), considered by many to be Taiwan’s most scenic and most thrilling road, which jumps over the south-mountains hump to connect Tainan City and Taitung County. The highway has been closed in sections for some time, necessitating travel to the forest recreation area via the East Rift Valley. The forest recreation area is at about 2,300m above sea level.

Jiaming Lake

Along with the lake, where wild deer come to drink in the early morning, the hike takes you to two of Taiwan’s Top 100 mountains, Mt. Sancha (3,496m) and Mt. Xiangyang (3,603m). Spread out over two/three days (i.e., one peak or two), it requires a good level of fitness. Though not a technical hike, there is exposure to heights in some spots, with no fixed-rope sections used. Before their hikes, adventurers usually tent in the forest recreation area’s campsite, which has shower/kitchen facilities. Accommodation along the trail is in rustic, dedicated cabins that are basic yet comfy. PRACTICALITIES There is no public transport to the forest recreation area/lake. If not self-driving, take a taxi from the East Rift Valley town of Chishang, which has regular train service. For more information on the lake, visit jmlnten.forest.gov.tw; on the forest recreation area, visit recreation.forest.gov.tw.

ENGLISH AND CHINESE Alishan 阿里山 Alishan Range 阿里山山脈 Bat Cave 蝙蝠洞 Central Mountain Range 中央山脈 Chishang 池上 East Rift Valley 花東縱谷 Giant Tree Trails 巨木群道 Haohan Slope 好漢坡 Jiaming Lake 嘉明湖 Jiaming Lake National Trail 嘉明湖國家步道 Longgong Waterfall 龍宮瀑布 Mt. Sancha 三叉山 Mt. Xiangyang 向陽山 Paiyun Cabin 排雲山莊

Qishan River 旗山溪 Sisters Ponds 姊妹潭 Southern Cross-Island Highway 南橫公路 Swallow Cliﬀ 燕子崖 Tatajia 塔塔加 Three-Generations Tree 三代木 Top 100 Mountains 台灣百岳 Xiangyang National Forest Recreation Area 向陽國家森林遊樂區 Youth Ridge Trail 青年嶺步道 Yushan 玉山 Yushan National Park 玉山國家公園 Zhukeng Stream Trail 竹坑溪步道

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Mt. Guanyin & Tamsui Half Day on the Mountain, Half Day Down in the Town, Full Day of Fun! TE X T H A N CHEUNG

PHOTOS CHE N CHE NG - KUO, R AY CH A NG , V I S ION

Mt. Guanyin stone-step trail

braced for a backbreaking climb when I heard that the trail to the top of Mt. Guanyin (Guanyinshan) is called the Yinghanling Trail – “Yinghanling” literally translates as “Tough Guy Peak.” According to a brochure published by the administration of the North Coast & Guanyinshan National Scenic Area (www.northguan-nsa.gov.tw), it’s the second-most challenging of the mountain’s six trails, which range from the easybreezy Fulongshan Trail to the arduous Jianshan Trail.

View from Mt. Guanyin

Hiking up the steep slopes of Mt. Guanyin by the north coast might be a tough feat, but you will be rewarded with outstanding vistas from the mountain’s peaks. Look down at nearby Tamsui, then head down and explore this charming old port district, looking back up at the mountain you’ve just conquered and taking in one of the stunning sunsets Tamsui is famous for.

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I’ve often gazed at Mt. Guanyin from afar while cycling down the bike path along the Tamsui River on the opposite (east) bank, trying to make out how the mountain’s profile resembles its namesake, Guanyin (the Goddess of Mercy), lying down. It might take a few tries, but the silhouette of the goddess eventually becomes apparent. Some disagree about the origin of the name, however, claiming that it is related to the numerous temples on the mountain dedicated to Guanyin. Mt. Guanyin is located in New Taipei City’s Bali District, on the west side of the Tamsui River close to the river’s mouth. The mountain, formed by volcanic eruptions about 600,000 years ago, dominates the district, and its diverse flora and fauna make it a paradise for nature lovers – especially birdwatchers. While most of the trails on the mountain are quite steep, they are not long, and it takes just about an hour to reach Yinghanling and a bit more to reach the Jianshan peak from either the visitor center or Lingyun Temple, meaning you can hike several of the trails in one day.

tep trail

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Enjoying the view from Yinghanling

Hiking Up Mt. Guanyin On a recent visit to Mt. Guanyin I got off the bus at the visitor center and decided to first walk the Fengguidouhu Trail, a steep 788m stone-stepped path that serves as a “shortcut” to Yinghanling. On the way up you’ll pass some creaky bamboo groves before the trail joins the Yinghanling Trail, the mountain’s main trail. Further up you’ll come to a rest area with pavilions, where I encountered picnicking families and sunbathing dogs. It’s then a short climb further up to Yinghanling, where you will be rewarded with truly stunning views. The panorama before you will include Bali’s Port of Taipei, the Tamsui River estuary, the town of Tamsui across the river, beyond that the mountains of Yangmingshan, and to the far right, in the distance, the urban sprawl that is Taipei City. On a particularly clear day, you can even see as far as the high mountains of the Xueshan (Snow Mountain) Mountain Range. What was puzzling to me on my hike is that the trail up to the highest peak didn’t feel “tough” at all. Later I found out that the name Yinghanling was conceived in the early 1960s when military police cadets reopened the trail – originally built by the Japanese during their colonial rule of Taiwan (1895~1945) – for physicaltraining purposes. On the peak an arch was erected with the Chinese characters Ying Han Ling carved on the top along with a couplet on the side that translates as: “Find the hardest road to walk, choose the hardest load to carry; come and learn how to be a tough guy, leave as a tough guy.” Bali riverside park

Mt. Guanyin's trail are steep, but not long

After conquering the peak, you can make your way back down the mountain to the visitor center or Lingyun Temple and then tackle some of the other trails, such as the Jianshan Trail. Formidable panoramic views await you at the Jianshan peak as well. Instead, I opted to head northeast, taking the Niuliaopu Trail downhill toward the riverfront in the small town of Bali, directly across from Tamsui. The stone-step path ends at a fruit orchard after about 900m, and from there it’s another 3km or so on paved roads to the riverbank. You’ll pass a picturesque small hillside settlement, a temple, and a traditional Taiwanese graveyard.

Bali After reaching the river, head north along the riverside path to the Bali Ferry Pier, where you’ll find a bustling food-stall market. It can get quite crowded here on weekends, as this is a popular day-trip getaway for Taipei families, many of which ride bicycles along the Tamsui River’s left bank riverside bike path. If you’re interested in the prehistory of the area, note that the Shihsanhang Museum of Archaeology (www.sshm.ntpc. gov.tw), which displays excavated artifacts from prehistoric inhabitants, is located about 3km west of the ferry pier. The ferry from Bali to Tamsui, the tourist hotspot on the opposite side of the river, departs every 10 minutes; it takes less than 10 minutes to reach the other side, where you will step ashore close to the popular Tamsui Old Street area and many of the old town’s historic sites. TR AVEL I N TAIWAN

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LB Café

Tamsui Sights There’s a lot to see in Tamsui, enough for an entire day trip, so choose your spots wisely. The riverside promenade can get quite touristy, and if you want to avoid the crowds you can wander the charming, winding alleyways scattered across the town, lined with characterful old brick houses and effusive greenery. Among the numerous interesting historic sites in Tamsui is the traditional Japanese-style Former Residence of Tamsui Township Head Tada Eikichi, which sits amidst a spacious garden. The campus of A letheia University, with its Western-Taiwanese hybrid buildings, is also fascinating to walk through. Close to the university is the Former Tamsui Customs Officer’s Residence, a.k.a the “Little White House,” featuring a stunning veranda with white columns. Finally, the most famous tourist site in Tamsui is, arguably, Fort San Domingo, which was erected in 1629 by the Spanish and rebuilt by the Dutch in 1647.

LB Café

Tamsui specialty, ah-gei

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Tamsui is well-known for stunning sunsets over the mouth of the Tamsui River, with restaurants and cafés along the riverbank offering excellent spots to take in the view, including LB Café, which has a second-floor balcony perfect for enjoying the views and also some good food, the menu featuring excellent sandwich, pasta, burger, and friedsnack options. LB CAFÉ ( ��堤 ) (02) 2622-2652 www.facebook.com/longbeachcoffeeshop No. 9, Ln. 21, Zhongzheng Rd., Tamsui District, New Taipei City ( �北��中正路 21 巷 9 � )

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Tamsui sunset

Danhai Light Rail The opening of the Danhai Light Rail line in December 2018 has given visitors more opportunities to explore the Tamsui area. Trains run from MRT Hongshulin Station (transfer station for the Tamsui-Xinyi Line) to Kanding Station, not far from the North Coast shore. Seven out of its current 11 stations (three more are currently being constructed) have YouBike public bike-rental stations. Take the train at the top of each hour to enjoy sculptures and illustrations of animal and human characters by beloved author and illustrator Jimmy inside the train. The entire line is Jimmy-themed, with his adorable art adorning the signs, station platforms, and even bus stops at two stations on the line. While much of the line passes through ne wly built residentia l a rea s, t here a re a nu mber of i ntere st i ng site s to check out, including the campus of Tamka ng University and the historic Cheng Family Residence. In the future (likely at the end of 2020), it will be possible to take the Danhai Light Rail to Tamsuiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fishermanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wharf as well, a highly popular tourist destination at the mouth of the Tamsui River.

Danhai Light Rail

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Fab Green Village

Places to Stay If you want to stay a night in the Tamsui area, note that there is a brand-new hotel, the Yun Estate (www.yunestatehotel.com), located close to the light rail line's Ganzhenlin Station. This is an elegant, high-end hotel offering suites only, each equipped with a kitchen, dining room, hot-spring pool, and large balcony with views of the Tamsui River and Mt. Guanyin.

includes a shopping mall, an Ambassador movie theater, an art museum, and the hotel. Close-by attractions include Hobe Fort, the Drop of Water Memorial Hall, an old Japanese residence that promotes literary exchanges between Taiwan and Japan, and the Cloud Gate Theater, run by Taiwan’s foremost and internationally acclaimed dance ensemble.

Another new entry to the Tamsui hotel market is the GOLDEN TULIP FAB HOTEL (www.goldentulip-fabhotel.com.tw), located on a hill with an expansive garden terrace perfect for viewing the sunset over the river. It’s part of the brand-new Fab Green Village (www.fabmall.com.tw), a modern and luxurious complex that ENGLISH AND CHINESE Aletheia University 真理大學 Bali District 八里區 Bali Ferry Pier 八里渡船頭 Cheng Family Residence 程氏古厝 Cloud Gate Theater 雲門劇場 Danhai Light Rail 淡海輕軌 Drop of Water Memorial Hall 一滴水紀念館 Fengguidouhu Trail 楓櫃斗湖步道 Fisherman's Wharf 漁人碼頭 Former Residence of Tamsui Township Head Tada Eikichi 多田榮吉故居 Former Tamsui Customs Oﬃce's Residence 前清淡水關稅務司官邸 Fort San Domingo 紅毛城 Fulongshan Trail 福隆山步道 Hobe Fort 滬尾砲台 Jianshan Trail 尖山步道 Lingyun Temple 凌雲寺 LB Café 淡水長堤 Mt. Guanyin 觀音山 Niuliaopu Trail 牛寮埔步道 Tamkang University 淡江大學 Tamsui Old Street 淡水老街 Tamsui River 淡水河 Xueshan Mountain Range 雪山山脈 Yangmingshan 陽明山 Yinghanling Trail 硬漢嶺步道

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GOLDEN TULIP FAB HOTEL GETTING THERE It's quite simple to get to the Guanyinshan Visitor Center and the wellmarked trails located nearby. Take a train on the Taipei Metro (Taipei MRT) system's Luzhou Line to Luzhou Station. From there, hop on public bus O20 and get oﬀ at the terminal stop. Another option is taking bus No. 785 from MRT Beimen Station and getting oﬀ at the last stop, Lingyun Temple. Yinghanling can be accessed from both the visitor center and Lingyun Temple via two separate paths leading up the mountain that merge halfway up to the peak.

Taipei Metro Tamsui-Xinyi Line

Tamsui

Among all lines of the Taipei Metro (MRT), the Tamsui-Xinyi Line passes the

Xinbeitou

flavors of this modern city, visit the Old Street in Tamsui and the hot-spring

most popular places of interest for tourists. If you want to experience the old district of Beitou; if you want to indulge in delicious night market snack food cuisine head to the Shilin Night Market, close to MRT Jiantan Station; and for

Beitou

window shopping, real shopping, and tasting fine cuisine, step off the MRT at Zhongshan, Dongmen, and in the Xinyi District and satisfy all your cravings!

Shilin

Grand View Resort Beitou ( 北投麗禧溫泉酒店 )

Jiantan

The Grand View Resort Beitou is honored with 5-star hotel by government 3 times. It emphasizes Taiwanese-style service and the local sourcing of materials, merging building aesthetics, accommodation and leisure, food and drink culture, hot-spring bath fun, and other elements in every corner of the hotel, providing guests with a highly humanistic and natural leisure space.

Yuanshan

(02) 2898-8888 www.gvrb.com.tw 30, Youya Rd., Beitou District, Taipei City 台北市北投區幽雅路 30 號

Minquan W. Rd.

Shuanglian Zhongshan

Amo ( 阿默典藏蛋糕 )

Taipei Main Station

"Amo" in Latin means "To love" and "Favorite." We firmly believe that working hard and diligently in making quality product will satisfy customer's appetite and touch their heart to fall in love with our products. (02) 2361-8099 Monday~Sunday 10:00 ～ 22:00 www.amo.com.tw 1F., No.3, Beiping W. Rd. Zhongzheng Dist., Taipei 台北市中正區北平西路 3 號 1 樓（近台北車站大廳南 2 門）

i-Ride TAIPEI

As one of Taipei's latest attractions, i-Ride TAIPEI is powered by world-class motion-based technology. Riders will hang suspended with their feet dangling in front of a 360-degree panoramic screen while special effects such as wind, sound, light, mist, and scents amplify this simulated experience, and fly over more than 20 magnificent landscapes in Taiwan, such as vast blue seas, rich valleys, towering mountains without having to go outdoors. Don’t miss the chance to try the flight during your stay in Taiwan! (02) 2723-8098 http://www.iridetaipei.com/ 6F, No. 17, Songzhi Rd., Xinyi Dist., Taipei City (6F of Breeze NanShan Plaza) 台北市信義區松智路 17 號 6 樓 ( 微風南山百貨 )

Taipei 101/ World Trade Center Xiangshan Chiang Kai-Shek Dongmen Memorial Hall

DingXianTaipei ( 頂鮮台北 101 店 )

Being known as the highest restaurant in Taiwan, the restaurant has the best view to look out over Taipei City. You may enjoy the metropolitan beauty in daytime and the night view in the evening with the finest delicacy and freshest dishes. The restaurant is definitely a must-visit for foodies.

(02) 8101-8686 AM 11:30 - PM 2:30、PM 5:30 - PM 9:30 www.dingxian.com.tw 86F., No. 7, Sec. 5, Xinyi Rd., Xinyi Dist., Taipei City 110, Taiwan (R.O.C.) 台北市信義區信義路五段 7 號 86 樓 ( 台北 101 大樓 )

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e Fun v a H to w o H t a k A Quick Loo in the Capital WEINERS TEX T KIM

, VISION LL H UA N G A CHI, NE K S A S TO PH O

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Fun in the City Taipei 101 Skyline 460 Experience Taipei’s most famous and most visible city landmark by far, Taipei 101 held the distinction of being the world's tallest building from its opening in 2004 until 2010 (now the 10th tallest). Its 89th floor indoor observatory and 91st floor outside deck give visitors a top-notch view of Taipei, with grand views stretching far off into the distance, weather permitting. For those looking for a bigger thrill, the Taipei 101 Skyline 460 experience is a uniquely breathtaking way to see the city from even higher up. After signing up online for the experience, you will be taken to the eponymous 101st floor. Then, before going outside, you'll be suited up in a harness, with a raincoat also provided if needed (note: tours will be canceled during heavy rain and strong winds). To avoid people dropping items from the tower, cellphones must be wrapped in plastic pouches with a neck strap that are provided and cameras have to be carried around with a neck strap as well. You'll definitely want to take photos, for the unobstructed views of the city from 460m above the ground are truly impressive. You will be tethered to the railing, and can walk safely around the highest floor of the tower, accompanied by one of Taipei 101's friendly guides. After the experience you’ll be presented with a gift bag containing mementos and a souvenir photo showing you at the top of Taipei 101. The Skyline 460 experience is currently priced NT$2,700 (40-60min.), with online reservations required.

Coﬀee with cotton candy at Bar 88 (photo courtesy Taipei 101)

On the top ﬂoor of Taipei 101 (photo courtesy Taipei 101)

A harness has to be worn on the top ﬂoor

Taipei 101 in the evening

After your Skyline 460 adventure, it's time to relax. Head to Bar 88, located – as the name implies – just below the 89 th f loor observatory. The bar's ambient lighting and comfortable seating are best enjoyed at sunset, when the view from the tower is especially stunning. The bar serves light meals in addition to a wide range of drinks. It's the perfect place to end the day. If you've been through the Skyline 460 experience, you can use the ticket provided to claim a complimentary pearl milk tea or coffee, complete with an adorable puff of cotton candy in the shape of a cloud. Bar 88 is open from 9am to 10pm.

Taipei 101 TAIPEI 101 www.taipei-101.com.tw No. 7, Sec. 5, Xinyi Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市信義路五段 7 號 )

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The Grand Hotel (photo courtesy Grand Hotel)

Grand Hotel The Grand Hotel is another of the city's best-known landmarks. The 14-floor, five-star hotel boasts a long and storied history that began in 1952, when it was established by Soong Meiling, the wife of late Republic of China President Chiang Kai-shek. It has hosted world leaders, diplomats, and celebrities, and been the site of such historic events as the launch of Taiwan's Democratic Progressive Party. An unusual feature of the Grand Hotel is its two underground passageways. Long a wellkept secret, the passages were meant for the quick evacuation of important guests should the need arise. One ends in Bei’an Park southeast of the hotel, while the other one opens into Jiantan Park northwest of the hotel. The latter was opened to the public last September. The narrow passageway is 85 meters long and has 74 steps. It’s most interesting feature is a slide that runs along the wall. Instead of running down the stairs, it was thought that people could slide down for a quicker exit in case of an emergency. A tunnel visit here presents you with an excellent chance to see a piece of unusual history in a place already full of interesting stories. Both guests and non-guests can book a guided tour of the passageway through the hotel's front desk (English- and Japanese-language guides available; reservation in advance required). Tours are priced NT$100 per person and are available daily at 9am, 10am, 11am, 3pm, 4pm, and 5pm. You can sit on the slide, but not slide down Maokong Gondola

Glass-bottomed carriage

Maokong Gondola The Maokong Gondola, which has its base station close to the MRT Taipei Zoo Station, is perfect for those who love grand views – and aren't afraid of heights. Sailing through the sky above lush hills, a ride on this cable-car line offers you a change of pace from the busy city and takes you to a much greener environment. To fully enjoy the landscape below you, taking one of the glass-bottomed carriages is recommended. After getting off at Maokong Station go for a walk along that area’s numerous trails and sit down in one of the teahouse restaurants, where you can try a wide variety of local teas and accompanying “tea cuisine” dishes. THE GRAND HOTEL www.grand-hotel.org (02) 2886-8888 No. 1, Sec. 4, Zhongshan N. Rd., Zhongshan Dist., Taipei City ( 台北市中山區中山北路 4 段 1 號 ) MAOKONG GONDOLA www.gondola.taipei

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Kanpai Yakiniku (photo courtesy Kanpai Yakiniku)

Eat and Drink Kanpai Yakiniku “Kanpai” means “Cheers/Bottoms Up” in Japanese, and toasting is something you'll be doing quite a lot of in any of the Kanpai Yakiniku restaurants in Taipei. Beer and barbecue is front and center at these lively restaurants, where everyone is treated like an old friend. Yakiniku, or simply Japanese-style barbecue, has gained popularity in Taipei in recent years, and no one does it quite like Kanpai Yakiniku. Guests are served platefuls of meat and vegetables, which are then grilled at the table by the diners themselves. Add to this a few cold pints of the various beers on tap, and the evening passes quickly! At 8pm members of the wait staff become veritable emcees, leading diners in toasts, games, and activities. On the hour, everyone is encouraged to down their beer in one go – successfully doing so leading to further rounds, on the house. Still hungry? Grab your significant other and take up the restaurant's kissing challenge, which rewards couples who kiss for 10 seconds with free meat to barbecue up. You might even find your passionate embrace forever memorialized on one of the restaurants’ walls, which are stocked with Polaroids of other couples vying for their free dinner. The energetic, warm vibe at a Kanpai Yakiniku is perhaps the best example of a new trend in dining in Taipei, with a focus not just on the food, but also on fun.

GEESAA Café Technology in the food and drink industry is developing rapidly worldwide, and Taiwan is no exception. The power of modern machinery is on full display at GEESA A Café, a hotspot for coffee lovers with an interest in modern technology. The “smart” coffee machines, aided by talented baristas, brew up a piping-hot cup of java that suits your taste. Paired with an app, the machines calculate variables such as water temperature, flow rate, and brewing method to concoct the perfect cup for you. GEESAA Café

Addiction Aquatic Development Taiwan has no shortage of fresh seafood, and the best of the best can be found at Addiction Aquatic Development. Comprised of ten areas ranging from sushi to charcoal-grilled seafood to hotpot, a wide variety of marine delectables is available here, freshly cooked and eaten on the spot. KANPAI YAKINIKU XINYI ATT ( 乾杯燒烤�義 ATT � ) www.kanpaiyakiniku.com.tw (Chinese) (02) 8786-0808 3F, No. 12, Songshou Rd., Xinyi Dist., Taipei City ( 台北市信義區松壽路 12 號 3 樓 )

GEESAA CAFÉ ( 三創概念店 ) www.facebook.com/geesaa.tpe/ (02) 2395-1386 5F, No. 2, Sec. 3, Civic Blvd., Zhongzheng Dist., Taipei City ( 台北市中正區市民大道三段 2 號 5 樓 )

Addiction Aquatic Development

ADDICTION AQUATIC DEVELOPMENT ( 上引水產 ) www.addiction.com.tw (02) 2508-1268 No. 18, Aly. 2, Ln. 410, Minzu E. Rd., Zhongzheng Dist., Taipei City ( 台北市中正區民族東路 410 巷 2 弄 18 號 )

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SunnyHills pineapple cake (photo courtesy SunnyHills)

Shopping Xinyi District Xinyi District is Taipei’s glittery, dazzling center for everything upscale. The district is home to international restaurants, highcouture fashion-brand outlets, and myriad entertainment establishments, including movie theaters. Pop into the Bellavita or newly opened Breeze Nanshan mall, two of the district’s most popular retail destinations, for some high-end fashion shopping in clothes and jewelry. Dining options are numerous in Xinyi as well, with many global-chain operations competing for diners’ palates. You'll also find the cornerstone eslite outlet, a bookstore operating 24h a day and a great place to take a break and spend an hour or two leafing through books and magazines. The recently opened Apple Store outlet, Taiwan’s first, is also located in the district, alongside VieShow Cinemas Xinyi, the budgetfriendly department store ATT 4 Fun, and three Shin Kong Mitsukoshi department stores. With so many options available, all within walking distance of each other, it’s easy to spend a whole day just exploring everything that Xinyi has to offer.

Bellavita

SunnyHills Pineapple Cake Inside the Taipei 101 Mall is a SunnyHills pineapple cake counter, selling pineapple cakes of the highest quality. This quintessential Taiwanese sweet treat is a perfect gift to take home to friends and family. A flaky, buttery shell with a chewy, sweet pineapple-based filling, the bite-sized pineapple cake is an understandably popular choice for visitors. Pick some up at SunnyHills, and try not to devour them all yourself before you get home. SunnyHills also offers oolong tea to go along with their delectable cakes. The Taipei 101 Mall is a hub for souvenirs, making it an easy one-stop location for buying treasures to remember Taipei by.

Yen Bar After a long day of shopping, seek out the relaxation of the Yen Bar. Located in the W Taipei Hotel in the heart of Xinyi, the bar is well known for its lengthy list of innovative cocktails. The sights are just as impressive – seated at the 31st and top floor of the hotel, the bar offers an incredible view of Taipei 101. The kitchen offers Cantonese-style tapas, brunch, and afternoon tea to accompany the wide variety of drinks – so grab a few and enjoy a laid-back evening here. SUNNYHILLS ( 微熱山丘 ) www.sunnyhills.com.tw YEN BAR ( 紫豔酒吧 ) www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/tpewh-w-taipei/ (02) 7703-8887 31F, No. 10, Sec. 5, Zhongxiao E. Rd., Xinyi Dist., Taipei City ( 台北市信義區忠孝東路五段 10 號 31F)

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Hotel Poispois (photo courtesy Hotel Poispois)

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Accommodation Mandarin Oriental Taipei

Mandarin Oriental Taipei (photo courtesy Mandarin Oriental) Xinyi District department store

Space Inn Xinyi (photo courtesy Space Inn)

For those looking for a stay in the lap of luxury, the Mandarin Oriental is the go-to place to be pampered. A five-star hotel located in Songshan District, this hotel features the largest hotel spa in Taiwan. The spa is known for its personalized treatments, with guests consulting with a therapist before their session to create their perfect spa experience. Using a combination of Eastern and Western ingredients, techniques, and methods, the spa embodies relaxation. After enjoying the spa, explore the hotel's fine dining options, including Italian, Chinese, and French cuisine. Its Cantonese restaurant, Ya Ge, was awarded one Michelin Star for the second year in a row in 2019. Can’t decide what to eat? Café Un Deux Trois features a full buffet for those who come hungry. Fully satisfied, return to your room or suite and enjoy the highest level of service in comfort.

Hotel Poispois Located in close proximity to Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall, Hotel Poispois is a great starting point for an adventure in Taipei. The building's unique red-and-silver façade is in line with its young and trendy interior décor, as every inch of the hotel offers something interesting to see. Even if you aren't staying, the hotel's first-floor restaurant Ch-Eat and Drink, is a cozy café perfect for a brunch stop. If you're arriving at night, head up to the rooftop bar for drinks and take in the hotel’s magnificent view of the Xinyi District skyline until midnight.

Space Inn Xinyi

Yen Bar

Backpackers take note: you can now stay in outer space without ever leaving Taipei – Space Inn Xinyi is a modern, sleek take on the backpacker hostel. With space-themed rooms featuring out-ofthis-world design and décor, Space Inn Xinyi brings fun and cool together and does it well. The hostel has male, female, and co-ed rooms starting from NT$1,200, and all the facilities necessary to make your stay comfortable. Enjoy a round of darts in the stylish game room, meet new friends from all around the world in the lounge, and whip up something for your tummy whenever it starts rumbling in the convenient kitchen area. MANDARIN ORIENTAL TAIPEI ( 台北文華東方酒店 ) www.mandarinoriental.com (02) 2715-6888 No. 158, Dunhua N. Rd., Songshan Dist., Taipei City ( 台北市松山區敦化北路 158 號 ) HOTEL POISPOIS hotelpoispois.com (Chinese) (02) 2771-1188 No. 168, Sec. 4, Civic Blvd., Da'an Dist., Taipei City ( 台北市大安區市民大道四段 168 號 ) SPACE INN XINYI ( 太空艙信義店 ) spaceinn.com.tw (02) 2722-0808 No. 549, Guangfu S. Rd., Xinyi Dist., Taipei City ( 台北市信義區光復南路 549 號 )

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QU ICK CIT Y TO U R / TA ICH U NG

TE X T & PHOTOS V I S I ON

Places to Visit within Walking Distance from the Railway Station

Taichung Park

The city of Taichung is Taiwan’s second-largest urban center. Though a fully modern metropolis, it retains a small-city charm that entices visitors to stroll about and discover its many green spaces and cultural sites.

rom the Taichung Railway Station you can go on an easy quick tour of attractions in the center of the city, including parks and museums, shops and eateries, and much more. Following is a suggested half-day itinerary you can easily complete on foot.

(15-min. walk from railway station) Ta ic hu n g w a s fou nde d i n 1721 by immigrants from mainland China. The original settlement was called Datun, or “Big Village.” Today, tranquil 20-hectare Taichung Park occupies the area where t he or i g i n a l s e t t le ment w a s bu i lt . Designed and opened in 1903 by the Japanese when they controlled Taiwan, it is a key city landmark and a designated heritage site.

Miyahara Ice Cream and Fourth Credit Union

(15-min. walk from Taichung Park) Both of these two Miyahara outlets, located about 200m apart on Zhongshan Road, have a delicious array of fresh-made ice creams for sale. Specially recommended are those made with in-season Taiwan fruits, notably Hami melon, mango, lychee, passionfruit, and banana. Both also have an upscale Chinese-cuisine restaurant on the second level. www.miyahara.com.tw (Chinese); www.facebook.com/tc4cbank/ 50

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Liuchuan Riverside Walk (15 min. from Fourth Credit Union) The Liuchuan (lit. “willow river”) Riverside Walk was established a few years back by the Taichung city government as a space for relaxed strolls along one of the four small rivers that make their way through the city center. On special occasions, such as during the Christmas season, the river and park area is beautifully decorated, with the bridges, trees, and installation art romantically illuminated in the evening. This is a lovely setting for slow walks and taking pictures.

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Ta iw 06

ule

National Museum of Natural Science

Calligraphy Greenway (20 min. from Liuchuan Riverside Walk) The artwork-decorated Calligraphy Greenway is a green belt that stretches from the National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts all the way to the large Taichung Civic Square and further on to the National Museum of Natural Science. It runs parallel to Zhongxing Street, in a trendy neighborhood defined by upscale retail outlets, restaurants, cafés, art galleries, and other artfocused attractions. Among the various sights you want to check out and take photos of is the impressive Arthas Statue, a depiction of a popular character from the Warcraft game universe.

N W

E S

03 National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts

Taichung Railway Station

05 Park Lane by CMP

and CMP Block Museum

7 Redevelopment Zone Shopping District (30-40 min. from CMP Block) The 7th Redevelopment Zone occupies the area between Wenxin Road, Huanzhong Road, Henan Road, and Dadun 4th Street. The district is well known for department stores, restaurants, hotels, parks, and high-end residential complexes, and it is also home to the new National Taichung Theater. Designed by Toyo Ito in collaboration with Cecil Balmond, this has become one of Taiwan’s most iconic buildings. The free-form structure houses three theaters of varying capacities within its organically sloping halls. At 40,000m2, the eight-story venue is based on a three-dimensional grid, which has been shifted and sculpted into an irregular form reflective of a coral reef. www.npac-ntt.org

Start

Walk 5min

1hr

2-3hrs

1-2hrs Bus 30min

04 05

Bus 40min

(10 min. from Calligraphy Greenway) Next up is the Park Lane by CMP shopping complex, which has a branch of Taiwan’s iconic eslite bookstore as its main tenant. Among other popular businesses inside the building are the Living Project store, selling all types of fashionable items; the eslite wine cellar, stocked with excellent wines from around the world; and the Yonshin tea restaurant, sporting an elegant interior design. Beside the shopping complex is the outdoor/indoor CMP Block Museum, venue for exciting art exhibitions and other cultural happenings. cmpblockmuseum.tw (Chinese)

ENGLISH AND CHINESE 7th Redevelopment Zone Shopping District 台中七期商圈 Art Museum Parkway 美術綠園道 Calligraphy Greenway 草悟道 CMP Block Museum 勤美術館 Datun 大屯 Fourth Credit Union 第四信用合作社 Human Cultures Hall Liuchuan Riverside Walk 柳川水岸景觀步道 Miyahara Ice Cream 宮原眼科冰淇淋 National Museum of Natural Science 國立自然科學博物館 National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts 國立台灣美術館 Park Lane by CMP 勤美誠品綠園道 Taichung Civic Square 臺中市民廣場 Taichung Park 台中公園

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Hotels of Taiwan North Taoyuan City

Taipei City

Keelung City

New Taipei City

Hsinchu City Hsinchu County

common is that serve and hospitality are always of the highest standards. The room

Central Nantou County

located in the countryside there is a place to stay that satisfies every traveler’s needs. What all hotels of Taiwan — small and big, expensive and affordable — have in

Taichung City

Yunlin County

five-star luxury hotels that meet the highest international standards, to affordable business hotels, to hot-spring and beach resort hotels, to privately-run homestays

Yilan County

Miaoli County

Changhua County

Visitors to Taiwan have a wide range of choice when it comes to accommodation. From

rates in the following list have been checked for each hotel, but are subject to change without notice. Room rates at the hotels apply.

Hualien County

Chiayi City Chiayi County

Outlying island

Northern Taiwan

Tainan City

Central Taiwan

CAESAR PARK TAIPEI Kaohsiung City

Taitung County

Hotelday+ Taichung

GLORIA PRINCE HOTEL TAIPEI

East

MADISON TAIPEI HOTEL PACIFIC BUSINESS HOTEL

Pintung County

S HOTEL THE GRAND HOTEL TAIPEI FULLERTON – FU-XING SOUTH

South

＊ Hotel list in alphabetical order from Northern to Southern Taiwan.

CAESAR PARK TAIPEI 台北凱撒大飯店

Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 478 Room Rates: Superior Room Deluxe Room Superior Double Double Metro Room Metropolis Room Station Suite

NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$

8,500 9,500 11,000 13,000 14,000 18,000

(All rates are subject to 10% service charge.)

Desk Personnel Speak: English, Japanese, Chinese

Restaurants: 2F Checkers, 3F Dynasty Restaurant

Special Features:

e-Lounge, Banquet, Meeting Room, GYM, SPA, Roof Garden, Free Wi-Fi,Room Service, Laundry, Luggage Storage, Valet parking service

GLORIA PRINCE HOTEL Taipei

MADISON TAIPEI HOTEL

華泰王子大飯店

慕軒飯店

Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 220

No. of Rooms: 124

Room Rates: Single / Deluxe / Executive NT$ 6,000- 8,500 Suite NT$ 9,500-20,000

Room Rates: Classic Room Deluxe Room Oasis Room Madison Room Skyline Suite Madison Suite

Desk Personnel Speak: English, Japanese, Chinese Restaurants: L’IDIOT RESTAURANT & BAKERY (Western), CHIOU HWA RESTAURANT (Chinese) Special Features: Coffee Shop, Fitness Center, Business Center, Meeting and Banquet Facilities,Laundry Service, Non-smoking Floor, Parking Lot, Airport Transfer Service

Taipei 台北

NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$

14,800 16,800 18,800 20,800 60,000 90,000

Desk Personnel Speak: English, Chinese Special Features: Workout Room, VIP Rooms, Underground Parking, Italian Restaurant, Whisky Bar

- Recommended by Michelin Guide Taipei - Luxury City Hotel by World Luxury Hotel Awards - Top 10 Popular Hotels for Business Travelers by Hotels.com

No. 38, Sec. 1, Zhongxiao W. Rd., Taipei City 台北市忠孝西路一段 38號 Tel: +886 -2-2311-5151 Fax: +886 -2-2331-9944 E-mail: info_tpe@caesarpark.com

No. 369, Linsen N. Rd., Zhongshan Dist., Taipei City 台北市林森北路3 6 9 號 Tel: +886-2-2581-8111 Fax: +886-2-2581-5811

taipei.caesarpark.com.tw

www.gloriahotel.com

www.madisontaipei.com

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Taipei 台北

太平洋商旅

No. of Rooms: 107

No. 331, Sec. 1, Dunhua S. Rd., Taipei City 台北市敦化南路1 段 3 31 號 (8 minutes by foot from Exit 2 of MRT Xinyi Anhe Station or Exit 4 of MRT Da’an Station) CHM Central Reservations: +886-2-7706-3600 Tel: +886-2-7726-6699 Fax: +886-2-7726-9070 E-mail: guestservice@madisontaipei.com

PACIFIC BUSINESS HOTEL

Room Rates: Boutique Business Junior Family Executive

Room Room Room Room Room

NT$ 7,600 NT$ 8,400 NT$ 9,400 NT$ 13,000 NT$ 10,000

Desk Personnel Speak: Chinese, English, Japanese

Restaurants/FACILITIES: Ju-Yi Restaurant, Gym, Laundromat (no coins needed) and Lounge

Special Features: Free high-speed Wi-Fi, compass and praying mat, crib, luggage storage, city tourist information, business center, balcony, free parking lot, airport shuttle service (fee), meeting room & instant office (for rental)

11F, No. 495, Guangfu S. Rd., Xinyi Dist., Taipei City 台北市信義區光復南路 49 5 號 11樓 Tel: +886-2-8780-8000 Fax: +886-2-8780-5000 E-mail: pbc.taipei@msa.hinet.net

www.businesscenter.com.tw

S HOTEL

Taipei 台北

THE GRAND HOTEL 圓山大飯店

Taipei 台北

TAIPEI FULLERTON – FU-XING SOUTH

No. of Rooms: 103

No. of Rooms: 500 (Suites: 57)

No. of Rooms: 100

Room Rates: S Double S TWIN S Deluxe S Classic S Premier

Room Rates: Single/DBL Suite

Room Rates: Superior Room Executive Room Deluxe Room Fullerton Room Deluxe Twin Deluxe Triple VIP Suite Presidential Suite

NT$ 10,000 NT$ 10,000 NT$ 18,000 NT$ 60,000 NT$ 150,000

Desk Personnel Speak: English, Japanese, Chinese Restaurants: B1 S Restaurant & Bar, 1F S Terrace garden Special Features: Whiskey Bar, Business Center, S Cafe, Room Service, Laundry, Fitness Center, Parking Lot, Airport Transfer Service, Limousine Service

NT$ 8,800-15,800 NT$ 22,000-36,000

(All rates are subject to 10% service charge.)

Desk Personnel Speak: English, French, Spanish, and Japanese Restaurants: Western, Cantonese, Northern China Style Dumplings, tea house, coffee shop, steak house Special Features: Grand Ballroom, conference rooms for 399 people, 10 breakout rooms, business center, fitness center, sauna, Olympic-size swimming pool, tennis courts, billiards

Taipei 台北

台北馥敦- 復南館

NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$

6,000 6,800 7,000 7,600 8,000 9,000 9,600 24,000

(above rates not including 10% service charge; for discount offers, please call hotel or visit our website)

Desk Personnel Speak: English, Japanese, Chinese

No.41, Sec. 2, Fuxing South Rd., Taipei City 106, Taiwan (near junction with Xinyi Rd.) Tel: +886-2-2703-1234 Fax: +886-2-2705-6161 E-mail: service2@Taipeifullerton.com.tw

www.shotel.com

www.grand-hotel.org

www.taipeifullerton.com.tw

NT$1,500

(Tainan, Kaohsiung, Kenting) (Taiwan High-Speed Rail – Bullet Train Ride) 三天二夜台南 ˙ 高雄 ˙ 墾丁深度之旅 ( 含台灣高鐵體驗 )

NT$4,200

NT$1,300

No.98, Zhongming S. Rd., West Dist., Taichung Taiwan 台中市西區忠明南路98號 Tel: +886-4-2329-2266 Fax: +886-4-2329-1266 E-mail: reservation.tc@hotelday.com.tw

3-Day Southern Taiwan Tour

NT$1,200

NT$1,500

(Stay at QingJing)

2700 3000 3360 4080 4680

Special Features: Library,Parking,Business center,Fitness center,X-box room,Laundry service

www.chiananwind.com.tw

NT$14,500

台北市松江路 190 號 4F

4-Day Central & Southern Taiwan Tour

(Stay at Sun Moon Lake)

NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$

Desk Personnel Speak: English Japanese Chinese

NT$1,500

NT$1,300

Room Rates: Standard Room Elegant Room Classic Room Family Room Deluxe Room

Special Features: With easy access to the MRT Daan station, 5 minutes arrives Taipei 101 and direct connect to every corner of the city. Free wireless internet; gym; sauna; business center; valet parking; mini bar; complimentary Buffet breakfast; welcome fruit basket and mineral water.

No. 1, Chung Shan N. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City 台北市中山北路 4 段1號 Tel: +886-2-2886-8888 Fax: +886-2-2885-2885

NT$1,500

承億文旅台中鳥日子 Taichung 台中

No. of Rooms: 72

No. 150, Dunhua N. Rd., Taipei City 105, Taiwan 台北市敦化北路1 5 0 號 Tel: +886-2-2712-0234*2109 Fax: +886-2-2712-0434 E-mail:sales@shotel.com

NT$1,300

Hotelday+ Taichung

(Sun Moon Lake, Kaohsiung, Kenting) 四天三夜台灣中南部觀光 ( 日月潭、高雄、墾丁 )

4-Day Eastern Taiwan Tour NT$6,600

NT$6,900

(Yilan, Hualien, Taitung) (Taiwan Railway Train Ride) 四天三夜海岸、縱谷豐富之旅 ( 宜蘭、花蓮、台東 ) ( 含臺灣鐵路體驗 )

5-Day Round Taiwan Island Excursion NT$12,500

(All hotels are 5-star hotels) 五天四夜台灣環島巴士之旅 ( 全程五星級旅館 )

Edison Travel Service specializes in Taiwan Tours and offers cheaper hotel room rates and car rental services (with drivers) . Edison welcomes contact with other travel services around the world.

NT$ 14,000

NT$ 15,500

NT$ 16,900 本廣告受交通部觀光局補助

Shilin Residence Traveler