MAHANGO Game Park
ETOSHA'S
TOP 100 BIRDS THE FAIRY CIRCLES What's your theory?
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NAMIBIA celebrates 25 Years
is published by Venture Publications in Windhoek, Namibia www.travelnewsnamibia.com 4 Herzinger Crescent, Klein Windhoek PO Box 21593, Windhoek, Namibia MANAGING EDITOR Rièth van Schalkwyk TECHNICAL DIRECTOR Naudé Muller PRODUCTION MANAGER Elzanne Erasmus elzanne@travelnewsnamibia.com PUBLIC RELATIONS Janine van der Merwe janine@travelnewsnamibia.com LAYOUT Venture Publications CUSTOMER SERVICE Bonn Nortjé bonn@venture.com.na ONLINE EDITOR Sanet van Zijl info@travelnewsnamibia.com COVER PHOTOGRAPH Paul van Schalkwyk
TEXT CONTRIBUTORS Annabelle Venter, Ron Swilling, Pompie Burger, Elzanne Erasmus, Sanet van Zijl, Marita van Rooyen, Christine Hugo, Helge Denker PHOTOGRAPHERS Paul van Schalkwyk, Ron Swilling, Pompie Burger, Elzanne Erasmus, Sanet van Zijl, Sean McCulloch, Karin Malherbe, Helge Denker, Marita van Rooyen, C.J. van der Westhuizen PRINTERS John Meinert Printing, Windhoek Travel News Namibia is published quarterly, distributed worldwide and produced solely on Apple Macintosh equipment. The editorial content of TNN is contributed by freelance writers and journalists. It is the sole responsibility of the publisher and no part of the magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.
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Nothing more than a fast click puts Namibia at your fingertips. With information ready to reach millions, the Venture website places Namibia in a position to compete on the global market. We have become the leaders in Namibian information dissemination for the tourism industry. Travellers rely on information from Venture Publications and now they literally have it on their screens.
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NAMIBIA HOLIDAY & TRAVEL The 200-plus-page Namibia Holiday & Travel tourism directory is published in print and online to promote Namibia as a tourist destination offering an abundance of national parks, magnificent wildlife and spectacular scenery.
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This latest book by Venture Publications, Indigenous PLANT PRODUCTS in Namibia, provides information on the harvesting and commercialisation of local plant products such as !nara fruit, hoodia resin, devil’s claw tubers, marama beans and ximenia seed kernels by rural people to improve their food security and livelihoods.
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EDITOR’S LETTER THANK YOU FOR PICKING UP THIS EDITION OF TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA
I
t is exciting to live in a country with mysteries yet to be solved. Of course there are inexplicable phenomena all over the world, but in Namibia ours may well have to do with fairies. A group of scientists recently met at NamibRand to discuss the mystery of the fairy circles and Helge Denker was there to report back on their findings. Fairies are certainly not the ones creating the circles, but regardless of whether the scientists ever get to the bottom of the mystery, I hope they will never rename these circles. For the romantics among us, it will spoil our fun. Who would “buy” a "termite circle" or a “toxic circle” or a “magnetic circle” for the NamibRand Conservation Fund? Not me.
AUTUMN
IN NAMIBIA
As I write this message to Travel News Namibia readers all over the world, the rains have started. I know that for visitors from the northern hemisphere this will seem like bad news. But believe me, in a desert country with virtually 365 days of sunshine, there is cause for concern when there is no rain in February. All we really need is enough rain to keep the dams full and the grass green for a few months. This is what keeps the collective spirit up. After a wet cycle lasting two decades, it seems almost unavoidable that sooner or later we will have a dry spell. For visitors a dry spell means that the sky will be blue, the desert will be desert, the grass, if any, will be yellow, and the animals in Etosha will congregate at the waterholes. Tourist bliss. For Namibians, however, the talk is about nothing else but the weather. We become really boring and gloomy. (Don’t ever complain if you get soaked like I did, running from the airport terminal to the aircraft in winter. This is special because it can only happen in Namibia. Everywhere else in the world rain is expected in the rainy season and the airport company takes precautions such as umbrellas!) But whether it rains or not, the photo essay in this edition will inspire you. Inspire you to search out your own special moments and places when it rains or to return to Namibia when all you captured on your previous journeys were clear blue skies, lovely sunsets, and perfect animal poses in the hot sunshine. An exciting event in Namibia this season and something we are extremely proud of, was the selection of our outgoing President Hifikepunye Pohamba as the 2014 Mo Ibrahim Laureate for Achievement in African Leadership – this after 25 years of peace, prosperity and independence. He is only the fourth recipient of this prize since Nelson Mandela was made the inaugural honorary laureate in 2007. Noteworthy also are Namibia’s vast expanses. It is the least populated country in the world and the country with the largest percentage (46%) of surface area under some form of conservation management. It has the largest freeroaming lion, cheetah and leopard populations, and our elephant population has increased to such an extent that we are starting to be concerned about the vegetation they destroy. These are not nearly all the reasons why Namibia is the best place on the continent (if not the world) to visit. We will keep some surprises in store for future editions and editorials. When you have read about the Slaneys’ endeavours to create a haven of peace in the Kalahari, the passion of Mike and Christa of Scenic Air to ensure that fly-in safaris are safe and awe-inspiring, the fun of camping around our capital, the discovery of the sweetest, smallest antelope in the world, and the 25 things you can do to celebrate Namibia’s independence, you should be convinced that we have reason to be proud. Namibia is a sought-after destination for a reason. And we are the only travel magazine in the world that writes about travelling in only one country. Isn’t that something? To top that, we can boast about the fact that we have been writing about Namibia for 22 years and still find something new to write about.
Rièth van Schalkwyk
TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA AUTUMN 2015
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CONTENTS AUTUMN 2015 8 WHAT’S NEW(S)? New developments in the industry
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13 FAST FACTS All you need to know about Namibia 14 HAPPY 25TH BIRTHDAY NAMIBIA 25 Must Dos 22 GENERATION WANDERLUST Mahango Game Park 28 CALLING ON THE CAPITAL A first-timer's guide to Windhoek 32 TNN SHOPPING Stock up on proudly Namibian fare 34 BIRDING The top 100 birds of Etosha 40 FOODIES The Meat Man at Moon Mountain 44 OTJIMBONDONA Join the Slaneys in the Kalahari 46 PHOTOGRAPHY FEATURE Paul van Schalkwyk 52 TNN GOES CAMPING Tent pegging in and around the city 56 WEATHER Autumn at a glance 58 ADVENTURE The Rock-Climber Diaries 64 EXPLORE ETOSHA The curious case of Dik-dik Drive
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32 66 FAIRY CIRCLES What's your theory?
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72 SCENIC AIR A new direction for local aviation 74 BOOKS A tribute to the wisdom and knowledge of the Zambezi region
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SCOTTISH RUNNERS MAKE HISTORY in the Namib Desert
Four months ago David Scott, the legendary Scottish expedition organiser, set a challenge to Scottish runners Dr Andrew Murray and Donnie Campbell. He sent them three pictures and a short email: “Run across the Namib Desert – some parts have not been explored properly, here are some photos, sore feet and adventure awaits.” They found the pictures incredible and no convincing was needed. They were going to Namibia and they were going to run their socks off. The run would be from Lüderitz to Walvis Bay, through the desert, and it would be called the Namib550. Funding and support were secured from Scottish entrepreneur Bert Jukes of Lyprinol UK. Applications had to be made to tribal chiefs to secure access to parts of the park rich in diamonds that had not been accessed. On 2 February they landed in Namibia and the battle began. They ran about 60 km a day, struggling through thick desert sand, battling over ridges and massive dunes, including the daunting Devil’s Workshop. Initially they planned on completing the run in ten days, but they managed the colossal task in only nine. A complete distance of 504 km was covered: something that had never been done before. The extra day that they had left allowed them time for community work. Much-needed medical supplies were distributed to locals and health workers to supply four clinics around the Walvis Bay area. To read more on this story visit our website at www.travelnewsnamibia.com or visit Dr Andrew Murray’s website to see what he gets up to: www.docandrewmurray.com.
WHAT’S NEW(S)? Compiled Elzanne Erasmus & Sanet van Zijl
THE SKY is the Limit Shakespeare said, “All the world’s a stage.” Namibia must then be the stage’s most beautiful scene setting. It is therefore only logical that a group of Namibians who love the stage, the arts and Namibia equally have come together to build an open-air theatre in Windhoek. The skyline, the surrounding mountains, and the sunsets form a perfect backdrop. Ground was broken recently for the construction of this soon-to-be Skyline Theatre. Sandy Rudd, former director of the College of the Arts, along with sponsors such as B2Gold, has made the project possible. Said Rudd at the groundbreaking ceremony: “The aim of the project is to build a venue where artists, musicians and cultural groups can perform in a space like no other. We’re taking drama and arts out of the theatre and to the people so that we can inspire the next generation, all the while taking advantage
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of this spectacular view of the Windhoek skyline.” The construction will be supported by volunteer work and reclaimed and repurposed building materials and will serve as a platform for the promotion of Namibian culture and the performing arts.
WHAT’S NEW(S)? FEEL the Good Vibes
Valentine’s Day saw the launch of a brand-new market day for Windhoek inhabitants to enjoy. The first Windhoek City Market was held on the lawn in front of Eagles Restaurant in Avis. The market was spread out along the edge of the small dam with its quacking ducks and lovely green lawn – prime spot for putting up a gazebo and lazing the day away. Market stalls included jewellery, hand-made gifts and art. There was also enough to make the Windhoek foodies drool: freshly baked confectionaries, iced tea, craft beer and a wide selection of wine. The live music was just the icing on a beautifully crafted cake. Keep an eye on the Windhoek City Market Facebook page (www.facebook.com/windhoekcitymarket) for future dates. Bring a picnic blanket, the kids and even the dogs along. Wine and dine in true Namibian style, all the while enjoying live music and relaxing Saturday vibes. To participate contact organisers via their website: www.windhoekcitymarket.com
NEW NAUKLUFT CAMPSITE unveiled
Nestled between the Namib Naukluft Mountains, Namibia Wildlife Resort’s (NWR) Naukluft Campsite falls within one of the largest conservation areas in the world. The Naukluft section of the park was created to serve as a refuge for the Hartmann’s mountain zebra, which are endemic to Namibia; however countless other wildlife species can be encountered here as well. The park also boasts five different vegetation communities, including a variety of aloes. The reintroduction of the new campsite took place in December 2014. A whopping N$7.93 million was spent on the revamping of the campsite, including new furniture, accommodation, a restaurant and a bar. The makeover promises to give guests to the camp a true outdoors experience. Back in 1986, when the campsite was first opened to the public, only four camping spots were available. Now that the camp has been expanded, it offers six chalets and 21 campsites with two overflow sites, as well as staff housing. Basic amenities, such as braai areas and new ablution blocks are available at each campsite. Visitors to the campsite enjoy various activities, which include trail hiking, nature walks, bird watching, swimming in the rock pools close to the campsite and exploring the 4x4 trails. To make reservations contact NWR at +264 61 285 7200 or visit their website for further details: www.nwr.com.na.
LEADERS of the Nation
NamPost stamps have always featured an interesting mix of themes. The commemoration of a quarter of a century of independence for Namibia is an obligatory part of that mix. To honour the occasion NamPost has produced a stylish limited edition folder with imperforate stamps featuring Namibia’s founding and its outgoing and incoming presidents. Namibia’s presidents have led the country on its democratic path and the country has enjoyed stability and continuity since its independence from South African apartheid rule in 1990.
Founding President His Excellency Dr Sam Nujoma brought freedom and peace to Namibia and served the country wisely as president for 15 years. He was succeeded in 2005 by His Excellency Dr Hifikepunye Pohamba, who continued to build upon the foundation of the young nation. On 21 March 2015, His Excellency Dr Hage Geingob will become the third president of Namibia, taking over the responsibility of expanding the nation’s legacy of peace, stability and prosperity from his predecessors. For information and orders, contact NamPost at philately@nampost.com.na or online via www.nampost.com.na.
Third President Issue date: 21 March 2015 | Artist: Helge Denker | Products: single stamp; first-day cover with special canceller & information insert | Stamp size: 30 mm x 40 mm | Quantity: 100,000 stamps; 500 first-day covers
25 Years of Independence Issue date: 21 March 2015 | Artist: Helge Denker | Products: single-stamp souvenir sheet; special canceller; limited edition commemorative folder | Stamp size: 75 mm x 25.71 mm | Sheet size: 115 mm x 65 mm | Quantity: 5,000 sheets; 1,000 commemorative folders
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WHAT’S NEW(S)? A PRISTINE LAND interrupted The late Paul van Schalkwyk was Namibia’s original fine-art aerial photographer who set the standard within his genre. He was a solo adventurer who took risks with a deep personal and spiritual connection to the land he called home. His documentations of specific scenes or places were anything but conservative and the harsh contrasts, remarkable colours and rich textures in these images truly inspire a feeling of wonder. An exhibition of his work opened to a packed audience at the FrancoNamibian National Cultural Centre in Windhoek and is now travelling to Cape Town to be exhibited at the Association of Visual Arts Gallery. The project is a narrative spanning ten years of Paul’s search for a pristine land. The show presents the viewer with a multifaceted encounter of familiar and unfamiliar landscape locations. Curator, Jackie Ruth Murray, who worked closely with Paul over the last three years, has designed a multimedia installation encompassing high-quality Dibond prints, video/audio recordings of Paul’s flying missions, textual transcripts detailing research and GPS coordinates, and physical collections from light aircrafts. During the month of April the exhibition will support a public arts programme on environmental issues in collaboration with partner organisations. For more information on the event, contact Elmarie van Rensburg at +264 61 420 521. Visit the TALA Gallery online at www.tala.com.na or go to the Paul van Schalkwyk Photography website at www.paulvans.com. See more of Paul van Schalkwyk's amazing photographs in the photographic feature on page 46.
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naturally namibia
Photo courtesy of: Paul van Schalkwyk
FAST FACTS ON NAMIBIA GENERAL Surface area: 824,268 km2 Capital: Windhoek Independence: 21 March 1990 Current president: Hage Geingob Multiparty Parliament Democratic Constitution Division of power between executive, legislature and judiciary Secular state—freedom of religion (90% Christian) Freedom of the press/media
ENVIRONMENT Nature reserves: 15% of surface area Highest mountain: Brandberg Other prominent mountains: Spitzkoppe, Moltkeblick, Gamsberg Perennial rivers: Orange, Kunene, Okavango, Zambezi and Kwando/ Linyanti/Chobe Ephemeral rivers: Numerous, including Fish, Kuiseb, Swakop and Ugab
FLORA 14 vegetation zones 120 species of trees 200 endemic plant species 100 plus species of lichen Living fossil plant: Welwitschia mirabilis
ECONOMY Main sectors: Mining, Fishing, Tourism & Agriculture Biggest employer: Agriculture (46%) Fastest-growing sector: Tourism Mining: Diamonds, uranium, copper, lead, zinc, magnesium, cadmium, arsenic, pyrites, silver, gold, lithium minerals, dimension stones (granite, marble, blue sodalite) and many semiprecious stones
PHYSICAL INFRASTRUCTURE
FOREIGN REPRESENTATION
Roads: 5,450 km tarred, 37,000 km gravel Harbours: Walvis Bay, Lüderitz Main Airports: Hosea Kutako International Airport, Eros Airport, 46 airstrips Rail network: 2,382 km narrow gauge 6.2 telephone lines per 100 inhabitants Direct-dialling facilities to 221 countries Mobile communication system: GSM Agreements with 117 countries/255 networks Postal Service: affiliated to the Universal Postal Union
More than 50 countries have Namibian consular or embassy representation in Windhoek. For information, contact Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Information and Broadcasting—Tel (+264 61) 282 9111
SOCIAL INFRASTRUCTURE
MONEY MATTERS
One medical doctor per 3,650 people Two privately run hospitals in Windhoek with intensive-care units Medical practitioners (world standard) 24-hour medical emergency services
POPULATION 2.1 million Density: 2.2 per km2 240 000 inhabitants in Windhoek (15% of total) Official language: English 13 regions, 13 ethnic cultures 16 languages and dialects Adult literacy rate: 85% Population growth rate: 2.6% Schools: 1,450
FAUNA Big game: Elephant, lion, rhino, buffalo, cheetah, leopard, giraffe 20 antelope species 240 mammal species (14 endemic) 250 reptile species 50 frog species 676 bird species Endemic birds including Herero Chat, Rockrunner, Damara Tern, Monteiro’s Hornbill
TAX AND CUSTOMS All goods and services are priced to include value-added tax of 15%. Visitors may reclaim VAT. Enquiries: Ministry of Finance— Tel (+264 61) 23 0773 in Windhoek
Currency: The Namibia dollar (N$) is fixed to and equals the SA rand. The South African rand is also legal tender. Traveller’s cheques, foreign currency, International Visa, Master Card, American Express and Diners Club credit cards are accepted
DRINKING WATER Most tap water is purified and safe to drink. Visitors should exercise caution in rural areas
TRANSPORT Public transport is NOT available to all tourist destinations in Namibia. There are bus services from Windhoek to Cape Town/Johannesburg/Vic Falls/ Swakopmund. Namibia’s main railway line runs from the South African border, connecting Windhoek to Swakopmund in the west and Tsumeb in the north. There is an extensive network of international and regional flights from Windhoek. Domestic charters to all destinations.
www.namibiatourism.com.na
HAPPY 25TH BIRTHDAY, NAMIBIA: 25 MUST DOS Text Ron Swilling Main photographs Paul van Schalkwyk
On 21 March, Namibia celebrates its 25th year of independence. A country with an ever-growing tourist industry and a strong conservation philosophy, it’s also a treasuretrove of sights and attractions. Extraordinarily, the country, flanked in the west by the ancient Namib Desert and in the east by the Kalahari, has two perennial rivers on its northern borders, balancing the arid desert areas with rich and verdant waterworlds. With a population of just 2.1 million and a vast surface area of 824,268 km², Namibia is an unusual blend of fascinating cultures, spectacular and otherworldly landscapes and a network of protected areas with flourishing wildlife populations, which are well protected by an exemplary conservation ethic enshrined in the country’s constitution. Good infrastructure, well maintained, ensures that travellers experience a journey of comfort and ease. An appealing destination for the introvert and extrovert, the adventurer and romantic, young and old, Namibia will delight and amaze, enthral and inspire. Come and celebrate with us! 16
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NAMIBIA CELEBRATES
TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA AUTUMN 2015
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1. CONTEMPLATE ETERNITY AT THE FISH RIVER CANYON The second largest canyon in the world offers a breathtaking and awe-inspiring glimpse into eternity. This millions-year-old Earth masterpiece has been patiently carved over time by the Fish River’s meandering journey. Explore the viewpoints along the rim to gain different perspectives of the yawning chasms or hike in the canyon depths. A five-day wilderness trail runs southwards from Hobas to Ai-Ais for the fit and self-sufficient hiker and a slackpacking option in the northern reaches provides an alternative for those who enjoy their creature comforts. Make sure you add this one to your bucket list!
2. PADDLE THE ORANGE RIVER The mighty Orange River, bordering Namibia and South Africa, is a shimmering ribbon of water in an arid and tawny expanse. It is also the place for a great river adventure. Several operators offer fun-filled canoe trips down river. With only relatively small rapids to be experienced along the journey, these adventures are suitable for the whole family, providing ample excitement and a few bursts of adrenaline.
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3. VISIT A QUIVER TREE FOREST The corky trees are synonymous with southern Namibia. Spend sunrise or sunset amongst these special trees that radiate character and charm. Visit the quiver trees at the Quiver Tree Forest Restcamp or //Garas Campsite near Keetmanshoop.
4. VIEW THE WILD HORSES OF THE NAMIB Mirroring the wild and rugged spirit of Namibia, the Namib horses survive in the harsh surrounds of the Namib Desert. They can be viewed from the hide overlooking the Garub waterhole near Aus, as they canter in with life-affirming presence and graceful beauty.
5. STROLL THROUGH THE ABANDONED DIAMOND-MINING TOWN OF KOLMANSKOP When diamonds were discovered at the beginning of the 20th century, diamond towns sprang up in the desert. Stroll through this ghost town on the outskirts of Lüderitz, imagining the opulence that once graced the desert. A photographer’s dream, Kolmanskop’s old houses provide dappled light and picturesque sand collages.
NAMIBIA CELEBRATES 6. WALK AND HIKE IN THE EXPANSIVE NAMIB-NAUKLUFT PARK
treasures, and coffee shops to savour German delicacies. It is also the adventure capital of Namibia.
Short walks for day-trippers and campers run through the attractive Naukluft Mountains, while the more seasoned hiker can enjoy the challenging eight-day Naukluft hiking trail.
11. TAKE TO THE DUNES OR TO THE SKY
7. SAVOUR THE OTHERWORLDLY SOSSUSVLEI A trip to Sossusvlei is a fantastical journey into a mindboggling landscape of sensuous sand dunes. Climb Big Daddy dune above Sossusvlei for the best views of the pan and its surroundings and wander around the arresting scenery of Deadvlei with its dead camelthorn trees reaching heavenwards from the chalky pan.
8. KAYAK AMONGST THE SEALS AT PELICAN POINT, WALVIS BAY A bright and light water journey for the whole family in the still waters of the lagoon, the kayak trip is an enjoyable excursion amongst the playful seals.
9. WATCH FLAMINGOS IN THE WALVIS BAY LAGOON A RAMSAR site and a world-renowned refuge for waterbirds, the Walvis Bay lagoon attracts myriad bird species including lesser and greater flamingos.
10. ENJOY SWAKOPMUND, A SLICE OF OLD GERMANY The quaint coastal town, sandwiched by desert and sea, has many curio shops in which to discover Namibian trinkets and
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Sandboard down golden dunes, skydive or take a flight over the desert. Invigorating adventures await the young at heart.
12. JOIN A LIVING DESERT TOUR Believe it or not, there is life in the desert. This delicate ecosystem is home to a plethora of desert-adapted fauna and flora. Be amazed on this eye-opening adventure into the desert.
13. CAMP OUT AT SPITZKOPPE An alcove of granite rocks en route to Swakopmund, Spitzkoppe is an ideal and rustic overnight stop for those who enjoy the riches of Mother Nature. It is also a rock-climber’s paradise. Explore rock arches and caves and watch the granite transform into gold at the end of the day.
14. PAY YOUR RESPECTS AT CAPE CROSS The windswept promontory of Cape Cross, where the intrepid Portuguese explorer, Diogo Cão, planted his padrão (cross) in 1486, became a hive of activity in the late 19th century when guano (a prized fertiliser in Europe) was collected and seal pelts were harvested. Today, it is the Cape Cross Seal Reserve, home to a bustling population of Cape fur seals.
15. JOURNEY TO THE WHITE LADY At 2,573 m at its uppermost point, the impressive Brandberg is the highest mountain in Namibia. It also holds a large number
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of rock paintings, including one of Namibia’s most popular. Initially dubbed the "White Lady" by Henri Breuil in 1955, is now understood to represent a healer or medicine man holding a bow and arrow in one hand and a cup or wand in the other. The Dâureb guides lead visitors on a walk through the rugged environment, speckled with Brandberg acacias, to the rock overhang where the White Lady can be viewed.
16. MARVEL AT THE TWYFELFONTEIN ENGRAVINGS At 2,000-6,000 years old, the Twyfelfontein engravings are an astounding record of the past, preserved in the rock by Namibia’s arid climate. Once thought to be educational in nature, a record of events or maps of water points, the engravings are now believed to be the communication between the shamans and the gods as they asked for food, protection, luck for the hunt, healing and rain for their people. The area is a cathedral of prayers. Groups of hunter-gatherers gathered in the mountain areas in dry periods, dependent on the water from the trickling spring.
17. SPOT THE DESERT ELEPHANTS If you are fortunate and your timing is perfect, you may be able to catch a glimpse of these free-roaming desertadapted elephants that travel along the dry ephemeral riverbeds of the country - from the Huab River northwards. Several lodges offer trips to view these hardy pachyderms.
18. EXPERIENCE ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK Don’t miss this national park in the heart of the country. It is a haven for wildlife, large and small, which gathers at its waterholes dotted through the park like a string of water pearls. The variety of vegetation, chalky character, plethora of animals and large pan, make this a highly recommended Namibian excursion.
21. CRUISE ON THE KWANDO RIVER The water world of the Zambezi is a peaceful celebration of reeds, birds, wildlife and trees. As you weave through waterlilies and cruising crocodiles, you can hear the chuckling sounds of hippo, witness the spectacular avian display and spot animals on the riverbanks.
22. RELISH THE WEALTH OF WILDLIFE Bwabwata National Park in the Zambezi region has a wealth of wildlife, including large buffalo and elephant populations. Explore on your own (permits available at the Susuwe ranger station) or join your lodge for a guided excursion. Horseshoe, an oxbow lake in the river, is a popular place to view elephant.
23. MAKE YOUR WAY TO EPUPA FALLS In the north of the country, Epupa Falls cascades down the craggy cliffs, observed by several small boabab sentries. A grove of makalani palms, a rainbow mist and a true African atmosphere make this an unusual and alluring destination.
24. BE INTRODUCED TO THE HIMBA CULTURE For those venturing into the northern extremes of the country (& driving 4x4s), Purros is a fascinating desert destination for several reasons: for the chance of seeing the desert elephant in the Hoarusib riverbed, for the desert scenery and to visit the Himba village. The Himba welcome you into their village to reveal their intriguing traditions and beauty rituals.
25. EXPLORE AN OLD AFRICAN PALACE Former home of King Tatekulu (father) Josia Shikongo Taapopi, the royal Uukwaluudhi residence is an African palace of old, located in Tsandi in the Omusati region. Surrounded by a thick mopane-branch palisade it has a series of passageways that separate living, reception and cooking areas. Keep close to your guide or you may just get lost in this interesting labyrinth. Many happy returns! TNN
19. TRY SOME NAMIBIAN FARE Come on, I dare you. Kalahari truffles, mopane worms and the giant termite-hill mushrooms (or omajowa) are a few of the delicious delicacies. Mopane worms, a favourite and nutritious dish of the Owambo people, are stored dried and are rehydrated and cooked with salt for a tasty dish. After the rains, keep eyes open for sellers along the roadside flaunting their wares. Kalahari truffles appear in the sandy eastern regions of the country after late rains and omajowa are gathered and sold on the road to Swakopmund, near Wilhelmstal, in the early months of the year.
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20. VISIT A LIVING MUSEUM Yes, a living museum. An ingenious concept, living museums are outdoor ‘museums’ where local groups share their culture with visitors, simultaneously reinforcing cultural values and keeping old traditions alive. There are a several living museums: The Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum at Grashoek en route to Tsumkwe, the Mafwe Living Museum in the Zambezi, the Mbunza Living Museum in the Kavango and the Damara Living Museum near Twyfelfontein.
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GENERATION
Wanderlust
MAHANGO GAME PARK Text and Photographs Elzanne Erasmus
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GENERATION WANDERLUST
Wanderlust [won-der-luhst] (n) a strong, innate desire to rove or travel about
T
he future belongs to youth travel,” or so said a panel of tourism fundies at this year’s International Tourism Indaba in Berlin. For the younger generation, whose pockets aren’t as deep as their dreams are high, it can sometimes feel like adventure is limited to weekends spent watching the travel channel or longingly staring at that K-Way backpack when all they really want to do is go on a real adventure. Wanderlust is a serious predicament that inflicts most people at some point in their lives. Within each human there is this uninhibited urge to travel. We were not meant to stay in one place, and noone feels this inherent urge to flee the nest more than
the youth, and so the term “Generation Wanderlust” takes the stage. It is only natural then that a group of four 20-something Namibians (myself included), all nature lovers and avid explorers, took to the wellmanaged dust roads of the country we adore to prove that Namibian tourism is not only open to the foreign tourist with his traveller cheques in a moonbag, double extra-length camera lens and Lonely Planet notebook. We have set off on a mission to explore as much of Namibia on a shoestring budget, so join us in 2015 on our adventures: learn to speak Namlish, drool over our N$20 Wimpy breakfasts and laugh with us around a campfire after a Windhoek Lager or two.
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“The next moments passed in a flash of motion. Sean and Karin were running full speed toward the car (neither waiting for the other) shouting “Lion! Lion!”
THE HAPPIEST PLACE IN NAMIBIA Our first expedition took us north to the Kavango region for a five-night stay at Ngepi Camp on the banks of the Okavango River. Our agenda integrated activities such as tigerfishing, crocodile and hippo cage diving and an afternoon lazing in the rapids of the Popa Falls. But above all these amazing activities, our two visits to the Mahango Game Park reigned supreme. At the heart of one of Africa’s most ambitious conservation programmes to date, the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KaZa TFCA) lies Namibia’s Bwabwata National Park. The park was established in 2007 by consolidating the then Caprivi Game Park and Mahango Game Park as well as a previously unproclaimed area along the Kwando River. The area, previously known as Mahango Game Park, now forms the Mahango Core Area of Bwabwata – Namibia’s best-kept secret. Wedged between the Botswana border and the Kavango River lies picturesque papyrus-lined channels, woodlands and floodplains that will completely reinvent the dry and arid picture you had of Namibia. Like a
Ngepi campsites are surrounded by beautiful trees
Disney World for nature lovers, Mahango Game Park plays host to all our favourite characters.
THE LIST We were met with smiling faces as we stopped at the northern gate of the park on our first morning. The park’s main road also serves as a throughway to the Namibia-Botswana border post, so the park is open from sunrise to sunset every day. N$10 per person and N$10 for the bakkie secured our entrance and we were all too thankful that we didn’t have to dig too deep into our kitty. As we drove in we excitedly created a list of animals we would most like to see: buffaloes for Sean, elephants for Karin, Carmine Bee-eaters for me and a Chobe bushbuck for Abe. The park forms part of a critical migration route for African elephants moving from Botswana to Angola and Zambia. It is also home to more than 410 bird species as well as a wide range of mammals, trees and even butterflies. The park has two routes to choose from and we immediately opted for the western route. The western section of the park passes by
The world's first "hippo and crocodile diving cage"
GENERATION WANDERLUST the park’s main waterhole, which is where we spotted Karin’s migrating elephants. Tick. From here the route is accessible only by 4x4 drive vehicles, and is much less travelled. The 4x4 route allows for a much more rural adventure. Animals are quite skittish in the dense vegetation, and our first sighting of Namibian buffaloes was no more than a flash of dark bums and a rustle in the woods. Tick. Omurambas that create standing water pools for animals and enormous baobab trees that protrude above the woodland canopy characterise the eastern route. Plains game such as impala, kudu and zebra graze the green grasslands in abundance. The park is also home to more exotic game such as sables, roan antelope and tsessebes, who tend to stick to the more covered areas on the edge of the omurambas. The eastern route also led us to a beautiful picnic spot, Kwetche, on the banks of the Okavango River. From here we could watch hippos yawning in the river and, with the help of some binoculars, spot hundreds of letchwe grazing along the riverbanks. The eastern side of the park also treated us to many more sightings of Sean’s buffaloes, or “Voortrekker tannies” as Uncle Ernest calls them, with their turned up horns that resemble the caps worn by the women of the Dorsland trek. Home to the largest collection of birds in Namibia, Mahango had me teeming with excitement as I searched trees and skies for the beautiful migratory Carmine Bee-eater. During the rainy season Carmine Bee-eaters are known to flock to the area in huge numbers, but all I was privy to was a quick flit of orangepink wings as a bee-eater flew across the hood of our bakkie. I was lucky to be able to inspect it for 30 seconds through my
binoculars as it sat on a nearby branch before it flapped off to a family reunion. This was more than enough time for me to be able to happily tick a new “lifer” off my list. Other amazing bird sightings we were equally lucky to come across included four different kinds of kingfishers, African Hoepoes, Wattled Cranes, a Marshall Eagle, a Wahlberg’s Eagle, as well as the all too popular sight of an African Skimmer gliding over the surface of the river with its bright red bill stroking the water.
THE CHOBE ‘FREAKING’ BUSHBUCK It was the second time in as many days that we were driving thought the park. We had seen an astounding number of animals and were, by this time, well and fully sated. I had just seen that darn Carmine Bee-eater that I had been looking for for almost a week. The only thing that we had not spotted was Abe’s fabled Chobe Bushbuck. I had never even heard of this specific variant and none of us believed we would see it on this short trip. Imagine our surprise when, as we were driving along the gravel road to the east of the main throughway to Botswana, Abe all of a sudden exclaimed (at an alarmingly loud pitch): “CHOBE freaking BUSHBUCK!” The car reared to a halt as Sean hit the breaks and we all spun to the left in a frenzy, eyes wide and ready. A flash of brown fur, the zip of white stripes and the flit of a fluffy white tail was all I saw as Abe’s unicorn darted off into the thick bush. I realise that the defining characteristics I have named here are akin to those of a kudu, a nyala, or your run-of-the-mill bushbuck, but there is no doubting Abe’s certainty. The Chobe Bushbuck could be ticked off our list.
MAHANGO GAME PARK FAST FACTS: • Open from sunrise to sunset throughout the year • Best time for game-viewing: June to October • Best time for bird watching: November to March • Picnic site on the banks of the Okavango River • Entry permits available at the northern park gate • Entrance to the park is 15 km south-east of Popa Falls (en route to Botswana) • Visitors are permitted to explore the park on foot, at their own risk, but as there are dangerous animals present, caution must be taken.
CHOBE BUSHBUCK FACT FILE
An old buffulo bull is often referred to as a "Dagga boy"
THE LION IN THE LEOPARD TREE
gigantic tree to tumble. We stopped on the road and decided to inspect the tree which lay with its roots exposed 15 meters away. Mahango Game Park is one of the only parks in Namibia that allow visitors to exit their vehicles and explore the park on foot. I walked away from the tree so that I could
“A flash of brown fur, the zip of white stripes and the flit of a fluffy white tail was all I saw as Abe’s unicorn darted off into the thick bush...”
Sean McCulloch
While driving through the park you might notice the wide variety of flora. Enormous acacias and baobab trees shelter the park’s inhabitants and entice visitors to diligently look at every branch for that rare sighting of a leopard lazing the day away. As we drove along we intermittently commented on overhanging branches, saying that if we were leopards those would definitely be branches we would claim kingship of. Every second tree was a great “leopard tree”, but alas we were not treated to any spots… One of the most spectacular trees in the park also serves as a park landmark. The Giant Baobab is found on the eastern route next to the river. On our way to this popular spot we found a neighbouring baobab that had recently fallen over. I have no idea what natural phenomenon would cause such a
• The Chobe Bushbuck differs in colour from a darker variant more commonly associated with the dense coastal belt of South Africa’s eastern seaboard, and although common in Botswana is seldom seen on Namibian game drives. • Male: Shoulder height 80 cm, tail 20 cm, mass 45 kg • Female: Shoulder height 70 cm, tail 20 cm, mass 30 kg • Average horn length 26 cm • Record horn length 52,07 cm • Identification pointers: Small bright-chestnut to dark-brown antelope; presence of vertical white stripes and spots on sides of the body to greater or lesser extent, more so in north; broad ears; short bushy tail, dark above and white below; ram has short, almost straight horns with slight spiral and ridge. • Habitat: Riverine woodland and bush associated with water, from coastal dune bush to montane forest, and from sea level to an altitude of 1,800 m in South Africa
A Grey-headed Kingfisher perches on a branch as a tsessebe looks on in the background.
GENERATION WANDERLUST get a good angle for a photo (I had my long camera lens on) while the others walked toward it to explore. As Abe headed back to the bakkie to fetch something and I peered through my viewfinder, a loud roar sounded from somewhere not too far away. The next moments passed in a flash of motion. Sean and Karin were running at full speed toward the car (neither waiting for the other) shouting “Lion! Lion!” All four of us were in the car within a nanosecond. Out of breath and with adrenalin pumping we slowly drove along the road that led around the fallen tree to try and see where the lion was. We never saw mane or tail of a lion. We even went back the following day after having debated the possibilities (could it have been a leopard?) to inspect the tree further. All we ever saw near that tree was an impala ram. Do impala rams roar?
GET YOUR WANDERLUST ENGINE ROARING The next time you feel that familiar itch and the call of the wild is beckoning don’t hesitate for too long. The most money you’ll spend will probably go towards your car’s fuel tank, which you would have emptied anyway on trips to the mall and back, or waiting in 5 o’clock traffic in the big city. Jump in your bakkie, or Polo, or Golf, and hit the road. Stop at every Wimpy for a mega coffee and a bacon and egg toastie. Buy a makoro next to the road. Dig into a monkey orange with your fingers. Camp under an enormous tree. Attempt to catch a tigerfish. Explore every wonder Namibia has to offer. Live a little! We are certainly planning to… TNN Follow the Dustroader Diaries Checklist online @ travelnewsnamibia.com/guestblogs
Most of the lodges along the river offer tigerfishing exursions
Ngepi Camp is home to many quirky bathrooms and signs.
Book your next stay in the Kavango region through StayToday. Go to www.staytoday.com.na for a variety of accommodation options, or explore the 2015 edition of Namibia Holiday & Travel for community campsites in the area.
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CALLING ON THE CAPITAL Text and photographs Marita van Rooyen
A first-timer’s guide to Windhoek Text Marita van Rooyen Photographs Paul van Schalkwyk
B
y now you’ve read all about its conservation successes, groundbreaking sustainable development policies, and local empowerment initiatives. Crowned as the jewel of Africa on the Forbes top three travel destinations for 2015, and highlighted as Lonely Planet’s number two on the Best in Travel 2015 list, it’s on the lips of many a travel guru. The guidebooks and internet sites have recommended the top to dos and must sees, and you’ve come all geared up for the occasion: sun hat swinging around your neck, binoculars and zoom lens within reach, and mosquito repellent in your back pocket (especially if you’re going up north during the rainy season). But how prepared are you really for the first introduction to this African experience of a lifetime?
A RECEPTION BY THE CHIEF The official entry to Namibia is routed via the country’s one and only International Airport (except if you opted to take the less obvious path via the coastal port of Walvis Bay). Named after the great chief Hosea Kutako – considered a national hero because of his role in the country’s fight for independence, and founder of our first nationalist party, SWANU – it is here where you’ll be greeted with the first set of surprises. For starters, the journey from the aircraft to the arrival terminal is done on foot, and the building itself qualifies to land up on the list of smallest airports in the world. Listings aside, the custom officials are efficient, and if you haven’t taken any chances to smuggle illegal substances into the country, you might very well find yourself on the long stretch to the capital within less than an hour after landing.
Buy handmade crafts at a number of street markets or curio shops.
Welcome to Namibia – the land of friendly faces, wide-open spaces, and great wild places!
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It’s this very extension of motorway – officially known as the Trans-Kalahari Highway – that acts as the opening presentation of 6,664 km of smooth, un-potholed, bitumen surface, forming part of a well-established road network of over 46,645 km that stretches across this vast land. And a well-developed infrastructure is just the start...
THE CAPITAL CALLS Windhoek is often described as a city with a "continental" atmosphere, and with good reason. As you enter official city boundaries, expect to be welcomed by lifestyle villages and housing estates, constructed in a fashion very much like those in other parts of the globe. Closer to the centre, historical German buildings dominate the architectural vistas, while informal settlements bring the beat of a modern African city.
Ai/ /Gams and Otjomuise – both referring to the occurrence of hot springs in the area – to that of Winterhoek, which under German rule became Windhuk, and subsequently, Windhoek. The Windhoek of today has all the amenities of any other modern city, plus a few extras, like drinkable tap water and some of the cleanest streets on the planet. And as the country’s main hub of activity, the city has much to offer the weary traveller.
FEED YOUR CURIOSITY Perhaps a good way to ease into the experience is to book a tranquil afternoon in one of the city’s exclusive spa facilities, of which the Diplomat Hydro Spa, Oukolele Day Spa and Nomad African Spa (with calabashes as massage aids, a true embodiment of African Zen) are prime examples of pampering and relaxation.
Of course, formerly, long before contemporary urban developments like traffic lights (locally known as "robots"), high-rise buildings, or one of the largest shopping malls in Africa (the Grove Mall at 55,000 square metres is the biggest in Africa outside South Africa), life here was different. Back then, in the early 1840s, the capital didn’t consist of much more than a homestead located in the airy basin between three mountain ranges, ruled by Captain Jan Jonker Afrikaner.
Other means of adjusting to local life might entail a sundowner of choice at one of the city’s "look-out" points, with Am Weinberg, Hotel Heinitzburg, the Wine Bar, and the Hilton Sky Bar boasting the most romantic city views, topped with some very impressive wine selections. If you prefer to be on ground level, the Stellenbosch Wine Bar is another renowned spot for connoisseurs, with additional drawing cards like a tasting room, bistro and speciality restaurant.
Jan was the same Afrikaner who was responsible for the name the city carries today, changing it from the original /
For the culinary curious, visit the world-famous Joe’s Beerhouse to experience the flavour of Namibia’s prime
You can enjoy a truly Namibian steak at a wide variety of restaurants.
Explore the city's nooks and crannies.
EXPLORE WINDHOEK export quality free-range beef from Meatco’s "nature reserve", or leaner home-grown meat varieties like kudu, gemsbok, zebra, or hartebeest. Gathemann’s is another popular choice, with gourmet food handcrafted from the finest ingredients, served within a historical setting. As one of the earliest German-designed buildings to pop up in the city, it looks out onto Independence Avenue and the city’s greenest spot, Zoo Park. The park itself hosts some interesting memorials, including one marking the spot where elephant bones were excavated in the fifties. It also plays host to the annual /Ae //Gams Arts and Culture Festival, celebrating the cultural diversity of the city.
Apart from its notable reputation as a conservation destination, Namibia is also well known as one of the world’s top-notch producers of diamonds. Fine specimens of these shiny little forever stones are cut, polished, shaped, and available to take home at the Diamond Works. Located within the Old Breweries Complex, it is worth a stop even if just to pass through the Namibia Craft Centre, with its array of authentic handmade goods. Putting all 824,269 square kilometres of the country together under one roof, the centre creates opportunities for local artists, craftsmen and communities to build profitable businesses, ranging from unique folk art and fashionable embroidery to contemporary jewellery and sought-after designs. Other local producers worth a visit are Casa Anin, where handmade Namibian linen and home textiles reign supreme; Nakara, home to Swakara garments and worldrenowned leather goods; and Pambili Young Designers and My Republik, both showcasing the latest fashions by local designers. There’s also a selection of state-of-theart shopping malls, with all the top chain stores (minus McDonald’s), coffee shops, and eateries in between. Men, or other non-shoppers, can keep themselves occupied by hitting a few balls around the 18-hole, fully grassed, par71 course at the Windhoek Country Club, or by taking part in one of the sporting events listed to the right. Night owls and culture seekers will also be happy to know that there is a constant selection of music concerts, theatre performances, exhibitions, and local and international film screenings, hosted by establishments like the Warehouse Theatre, National Theatre, National Art Gallery, Omba Gallery, Goethe Centre, Franco-Namibian Cultural Centre, and College of the Arts.
INTO THE BEYOND So there you have it: Windhoek, the city of many faces, has it all. If you can dream it, you will find it. And not too far from the city gates either (if you really search hard), you will find the wildlife wandering as it did in Captain Afrikaner’s time: freely and without disturbance, across the vast space that is Namibia. TNN
Marita van Rooyen
SOUVENIRS AND ENTERTAINMENT
Experience a calabash treatment at Nomad African Spa.
EVENTS IN THE CITY If you’re into music, arts, or culture, plan your visit to the city around one or more of these festivals: • Bank Windhoek Arts Festival, year-round • /Ae //Gams Arts and Culture Festival, April • Windhoek Carnival (WIKA), April • Hart van Windhoek Music Festival, September • Oktoberfest, October • Jazz Festival, November. For the more active, there is a plethora of sporting events happening within city boundaries, including: • Impi Challenge, January • DTS Volleyball-for-All, February • Nedbank Cycle Challenge, February • Red Square Winter Duathlon, June-October • Biathle Championships, July • Dr Sam Nujoma Half Marathon, July • Namibia National MTB Cross Country Championships, July • Telecom Windhoek City Run, August • OTB Xtrail, August • Cycletech Spring Festival, September • Namibian Pick n Pay Cycle Classic, October For a complete list of events, dates and tickets, visit www.staytoday.com.na.
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1 MAKING A STATEMENT Namcrafts has opened a new shop at the Grove Mall of Namibia. Upon walking into the store your eyes are immediately riveted to the beautiful colourful displays along the walls. Good luck if you think it’s an easy task to buy something there, because every piece is as lovely and unique as the next. Namcrafts aims to bring customers one-of-kind products directly from the crafter. Indigenous Namibian crafters are employed to create the authentic pieces that buyers have grown to love over the past 20 years. Statement necklaces are timeless and Namcrafts has them in abundance. There are necklaces available in an assortment of lengths and colours, made from beads, metals and natural materials. Every necklace is meticulously handmade by Namibian crafters and will be the perfect touch to a day or night ensemble. Contact Namcrafts at +264 61 25 0342 or email them at info@namcrafts.com.
TNN SHOPPING
Short necklace N$150 Long necklace N$165
Compiled Sanet van Zijl
2 UNCAPPED BY NATURE When visiting the Namibian Craft Centre, be sure to make a stop at Big Five Arts & Crafts. They have all kinds of African crafts and there’s a story behind every item. They prefer to stock Namibian products in order to support local trade, culture and tradition. Most of the crafters supplying the shop with its incredible artwork make a living out of it. Examples of this artwork are the fascinating bottle openers. Their collection consists of carved, warthog tooth, springbok horn and wooden openers made by Kavango and Caprivian artists. Seeing that it’s rugby season, the guys will love to use these for opening a few bottles at the Saturday braai. Contact Nangula at +264 81 32 42 094. Warthog tooth N$350 Springbok horn N$220 Assorted N$150
3 PROUDLY NAMIBIAN AT KAAPSE TAFEL We discovered some proudly Namibian products at Kaapse Tafel Town Stall, situated at Ferreira’s Garden Centre. This little shop is known for its quality proteas and fynbos from South Africa, but they also stock goods from small-time farm kitchen brands in Namibia. Those of you who love good, old-style treats fresh from the farm will enjoy what they have to offer. The Gross Osombahe food range is one of the unique brands offered here (and only here). It contains products made for the kitchen table from the farm table. Various cheeses, butters and free-range eggs are available and the products are completely organic. Contact Kaapse Tafel at +264 81 420 3009 or visit their Facebook page at www.facebook.com/kaapsetafel. Brie N$36,25
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Camembert N$55,50
Butterfett N$30
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WHAT TO BUY 4 ENJOY YOUR TEA THE BUSHVELD WAY Situated at Namibian Craft Centre, Touba Africa Art Gallery boasts a collection of souvenirs from all over Africa. Many of the artifacts in this shop are used in traditional ceremonies and funerals. Keeping up with traditions, many of us like to have a morning or afternoon tea and Touba has the perfect Namibian metal mugs for just that. These mugs are hand-painted in colourful designs, featuring Namibian animals. You can even take them with you on your travels, because these sturdy babies won’t break. Make contact with the people at Touba at +264 61 228 710 or email ibadiop74@gmail.com. Small mugs N$45 Large mugs N$65
5 A GIFT FOR EVERY OCCASION If you’re struggling to find a small, yet personal, gift to give to a lady look no further than The Avant Garde Gift Shop, situated at old Wilde Eend Nursery. This tiny shop is filled with character and quirky items. The women who work there make an assortment of gifts for in- and outside the home: wooden crosses, mobiles, tea cups and quilt work – you’ll find it all there. Nearly every item in the shop is handmade and painted with intricate detail on the premises. To learn more about their products contact Adelheid Smit at +264 81 325 4771. Oven mitts N$120 Crosses N$130
6 SOMETHING FOR THE LITTLE ONES Artisan at Namibian Craft Centre stocks knitted dolls of many shapes and colours. These dolls are made by !Kung women who live in Northern Namibia in a remote settlement in Ohangwena. Most of them are part of San tribes who now live on resettlement farms. They were taught skill development and now they use their talents to make these adorable creations. Each type of animal-shaped doll has a name written on its tag and these are the perfect bedtime cuddly toys for small children. Give Artisan a visit at Craft Centre, opposite Craft Café. You may also like to contact them at +264 61 242 799 or email at marketing@omba.org.na.
Makena Mongoose Doll N$100 Sam Springhare Doll N$130
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THE TOP 100 BIRDS OF ETOSHA
ETOSHA IS LIKE GOOD BRANDY – ALWAYS A BARGAIN! Text and photographs Pompie Burger
Lesser Kestrel (Falco naumanni)
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BIRDING
Since the upgrades and improvements were done to Etosha’s rest camps in 2007 – a most timely exercise considering the Etosha National Park turned 100 that year – many people commented that the accommodation in the park had become too expensive. Nevertheless, after a recent visit, and yet another and another, I came to the conclusion that this really is one of our country’s top birding destinations, comparable to any of the best game parks in Africa. So when it comes to footing the bill, compare Etosha to brandy – one with a superb vintage of excellent quality.
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Okaukuejo Rock Martin, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Fork-tailed Drongo, Crimson-breasted Shrike, Acacia Pied Barbet, Purple Roller, African Hoopoe, Common Scimitarbill, White-bellied Sunbird, Groundscraper Thrush Ever since my first visit, this camp has been my favourite venue for bird-watching, braaiing and waterholing. The massive sociable-weaver nest right next to the waterhole, as well as the two others on the border of the camping area (the private bin for the campers), offer an excellent microcosmos of various other bird species such as Pygmy Falcons and Rosy-faced Lovebirds – even before you can take your first sip. During autumn one of my favourite spots in the camp is the rockery in front of the gas station with its Aloe hereroensis. Occupying the middle of the road with a camera and tripod (unfortunately the best spot for taking pictures) invites looks from passing tourists that vary from sympathy to pure disgust (usually from the klippies and coke brigade). In summer, look out for the African Cuckoo in the camp. If it’s very quiet, it must be an African. If it’s very noisy, it’s a Common, because the Common is very vocal, and the African is not (rather like the difference between having a double and a single).
Halali White-crested Helmet-Shrike, African Scops-Owl, Southern White-faced Scops-Owl, Southern White-crowned Shrike, Violet Wood-Hoopoe, Carp’s Tit, Damara Hornbill, Rüppell’s Parrot, Burchell’s Starling Being a halfway shebeen between Okaukuejo and Namutoni, Halali has become a very popular destination, not only for the ice cream, but also because it’s a haven for the braai brigade, especially those coming from Namutoni where there are no braai facilities (what a pity!). There are always a few endemics hanging around during the daytime, so taking a stroll around the camp will invariably bring some surprises for the bird-watcher. Ever since my first visit to this camp when I was introduced to the world of owls by Albert Swartz, I have not visited Halali without seeing an owl.
Namutoni Barn-Owl, Marico Sunbird, Violet-backed Starling, Red-faced Mousebird, African Red-eyed Bulbul, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver, Wattled Starling, Crested Francolin, African Palm-Swift When you’re coming from the western part of Etosha, it’s often difficult to tear yourself away from the mopane woodland, which has its own special flair. But once you’ve reached the eastern part of Etosha with its much higher rainfall, the diversity of birds increases in direct proportion. I must confess that the camp with its castle has lost a bit of its magic since being upgraded to a rather more upmarket but Namibian-unfriendly camp (maybe we’re just a bit downmarket).
Crimson-breasted Shrike (Laniarius atrococcineus)
Crested Francolin (Dendroperdix sephaena)
BIRDING
Double-banded Courser (Rhinoptilus africanus)
However, the fort hasn’t lost its magic with the massive coral tree and ficus trees still attracting many birds during summertime, especially lots of sweet-toothed and vegetarian ones. In the context of 100 years, we are looking at a very mature brandy in the age-old tradition! I wonder if this is the reason why we Namibians are still a bit sceptical about the camp (not enough meat?). The camping and dayvisitors’ areas are still worth a visit, but you wonder if the price of such short excursions is not somewhat excessive. Despite all these complaints, I still love the eastern part of the park.
Fischer’s Pan Greater Flamingo, Lesser Flamingo, Marabou Stork, Abdim’s Stork, Greater Painted-snipe, Blacksmith Lapwing, Blackheaded Heron, Black-winged Stilt, Blue Crane, Little Grebe From Namutoni all roads lead to Rome, as in to Fischer’s Pan. This is by far my favourite route in Etosha. For the past 10 or more years (avoid anything less than 10) the pan had water, to a greater or lesser extent. Obviously, the more water, the more birds and the bigger the variety. The flamingos’ breeding also depends on the amount of rain that has fallen (for brandy and water). You cannot believe the change that takes place once the water has made its
appearance. I suppose most of the birds also have some difficulty to act normal.
The plains Double: Kori Bustard, Northern Black Korhaan, Red-crested Korhaan, Ludwig’s Bustard, Spotted Thick-knee, Doublebanded Courser, Crested Francolin, Swainson’s Spurfowl, Common Ostrich, Crested Guineafowl Single: Lilac-breasted Roller, Capped Wheatear, Marico Flycatcher, Dusky Lark, Spike-heeled Lark, Lesser Grey Shrike, Scaly-feathered Finch, Kalahari Scrub-Robin, Chestnutbacked Sparrowlark The plains are the areas between the various camps in Etosha. This might seem like a very blonde statement, but there are times when you shouldn’t overestimate certain species. Although, as far as colour is concerned, this is not the epicentre of variety, the musical options that especially the LBJ birds offer are more than enough compensation for the lack of colour. The "doubles" make up for their lack in colour with their sheer size and fascinating behaviour, such as the Kori Bustard and Red-crested Korhaan male’s elaborate mating display during spring. For the colourcoded part of the population, the migrants provide a few brilliant additions.
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Lappet-faced Vulture (Aegypius tracheliotos)
Raptors
Migrants
Martial Eagle, Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk, Gabar Goshawk, Red-necked Falcon, Greater Kestrel, Peregrine Falcon, African Hawk-Eagle, Lanner Falcon, Lappet-faced Vulture, Secretarybird Game parks are known for their lions and raptors, and Etosha is no exception. The over 40 raptors (almost 70% of all the raptors in Namibia) occurring in Etosha always make a visit to the park worthwhile. During the rainy season there is also an influx of visitors from the north (not Oshakati), which brings the necessary diversity.
European Bee-eater, Yellow-billed Kite, European Roller, Black Cuckoo, Jacobin Cuckoo, African Cuckoo, Black Kite, Lesser Kestrel, Red-footed Falcon, Abdim’s Stork There are rumours that most of the migrants plan to stay over for the winter season, but this hasn’t been confirmed yet. There are some concerns that need sorting out (nothing to do with the new prices, or the vintage). Although the temperatures can be quite high in summer, this should not deter the bird-watching connoisseur from enjoying the spectacle of birds from up north; nor should the quality of the vintage.
Onkoshi
Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk (Melierax canorus)
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Shoebill, African Finfoot, Mute Swan, Angola Pitta, Lesser Frigatebird, Puffin, Golden Eagle, Wandering Albatross, King Penguin, Macaroni Penguin When looking at the impressive list of birds to be seen at this exclusive camp, it is no wonder the area is good enough for the most crowned brandy, to wit a rather complex, balanced cognac. I must confess, most of these birds are still on my wish list, so you can imagine that I still have to stay over at Onkoshi, and certainly – if the CEO of Namibia Wildlife Resorts were to invite me for a weekend – I would be more than happy to share an oak-matured brandy on the rocks, or the sand, with him.
BIRDING Dolomite Camp Hartlaub’s Spurfowl (Francolin), Bare-cheeked Babbler, White-tailed Shrike, Rockrunner, Carp’s Tit, Damara Hornbill, Monteiro’s Hornbill, Chestnut Weaver, Cinnamonbreasted Bunting, Bronze-winged Courser This new camp is a most welcome addition to the four existing camps, as it allows visitors to explore this western part of Etosha, until now an unexplored area of the park that was not open to the public. The entrance through the Otjovasandu Gate allows you to view this mountainous area with its own brand of magic and bird populations. Being part of the pro-Namib Region, it is no surprise that endemics are very common here. The fact that Hobatere is no longer on the circuit makes this the ideal substitute. Looking at all the pros and the very few cons, this eau-de-vie story does not sound too far-fetched. It is, indeed, still the double-distilled pot brandy of Namibia’s resorts. After each visit you will feel refreshed with a small barrel of maturated brandy that leaves you with a soft and enchanting aftertaste. This is indeed an addictive experience.
PS When Etosha turned 100 in 2007, I thought it appropriate to write an article as a sort of celebration and follow-up to my previous articles on Etosha. It was written in Afrikaans for the Weg magazine in South Africa, which generously published it, obviously with a few alterations (it’s not only Amy who does this). For the purpose of the book, I translated and made a few adjustments back to normal. I thought it appropriate to add the following as a gesture of tongue-in-cheek thanks to the editor. TNN
Five things you should know about Etosha 1. It is situated in Namibia. 2. There are animals in the park. 3. There is no KFC or Spur there. 4. A four-wheel drive vehicle is optional. 5. There are no strikes or mass-action there (except for the springbokkies’ mass action).
Five birds you will definitely not see in Etosha 1. Dodo 2. Macaroni Penguin 3. King Penguin 4. Wilson’s Storm-Petrel 5. Spectacle Petrel (Guess who’s been to the Antarctic?)
Five things you should take along 1. Police protection 2. Snorkel 3. Thermal underwear 4. Omega 3 5. Surfboard (Ian had his with him on our last visit) African Pipit (Anthus cinnamomeus)
The MEAT MAN at
MOON MOUNTAIN Text and photographs Elzanne Erasmus
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amibians are in no way strangers to a good braai. The South Africans may have claimed the term “braai” as their own. It is an essential part of their national heritage; they have even replaced their National Heritage Day with National Braai Day. Many believe, however, that it is the Namibians who have perfected the art of turning amazing specimens of meat (such as you can only find within our borders) into culinary delights that make you wonder how it could be in any way possible for anyone to be a vegetarian. In Namibia, where there is smoke, there is a braai. I’ve heard fellow countrymen laugh off the idea of having chicken or fish on a Saturday night, because as we all know, white meat is pretty much a vegetable. The most important aspect that needs to be realised when dissecting the ins and outs of the braai, its mechanics and composition, is that it is in no way dependent on these trivial factors. A true braai finds its essence in the all-encompassing sense of community that a group of likeminded individuals find when gathered around a smouldering fire. It is perfected while drinking beer or wine or coke, chatting about life and love and what the referee did wrong this time. That jovial spirit seeps much deeper into the meat than the salt, Worcestershire sauce or Jimmy’s ever will. The braai isn’t a primal way of cooking meat for survival purposes. It’s an institution that we as southern Africans have built our culture around. It is the chops on the grill in someone’s backyard, the
*Kapana: meat grilled on an open fire, often sold at local markets.
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kapana* being enjoyed by a group of friends watching the Brave Warriors and the boerewors roll eaten around the campfire under an unbelievable Namibian night sky. It came as a culture shock when I received a very strange invitation to dinner at Moon Mountain Lodge near Sossusvlei late last year. The invitation was gladly received (who says no thanks to a Sossusvlei lodge visit and free food?), but something about it irked me. The intention behind the invite was to come and experience a celebrity chef from the Netherlands… braaiing. I will admit that I reread the email quite a few times. When I read the words “celebrity chef from the Netherlands” the foodie within me sat up straighter, but then followed the words “BushKitchen” and “braai”. Now, I’ve never been to the Netherlands, but I thought I knew enough about Dutch culture to be able to logically exclude the word “braai” from their vocabulary, not to mention their menus. Nonetheless I was there on the prescribed day, ready and willing to see what it was that these Dutchmen were going to attempt to teach us Namibians about our own culture. Low and behold – the surprise of a lifetime. What I found was a group of friends and avid travellers who had explored various African destinations and were not first-time visitors to Namibia. Among them was the man I had come to meet, Harm-Jan Bloem, the Braai Master. Known in the Netherlands as “The BBQ Man”, Harm-Jan is a popular
FOODIES
Harm-Jan injecting the meat with bouillon
celebrity chef. He has been on a cooking show on Dutch television, catered to private functions, music festivals and even VIP lounges attended by rock stars. He is also one of the main judges at the annual Jack Daniel's World Championship Invitational Barbecue held at the Jack Daniel’s Distillery. Harm-Jan’s passion lies in his BushKitchen adventures, though. He has braaied in various African countries, in national parks with game rangers as his dinner guests, and has even joined Marlice and Rudie van Vuuren for a braai alongside the cheetahs at N/a’an ku sê. Among the group accompanying Harm-Jan on his most recent trip through Namibia was a lifelong friend, Marcello Pacenti. Raised in South Africa, Marcello was the one who first introduced Harm-Jan to the braai culture, and he hasn’t missed a bite since. The two-day visit went by in a blur of eager chatter, sundowner drives and the keen excitement that always accompanies making new friends. I found that these were key ingredients for a great braai long before the meat went on the fire. When it came to the actual event, the Big Braai, Harm-Jan was welcomed into the lodge’s tented kitchen area by resident chef Alexa Wiehahn. Alexa had already spent most of the day preparing extra dishes for the night’s dinner, which would be attended by the other guests staying at the lodge as well. HarmJan’s task was to braai and Alexa and her team created side dishes to round off his main menu item, a springbok leg. After all, as Marcello pointed out: “Harm-Jan is the meat man, not the vegetable man”. The kitchen exploded into something akin to an episode of MasterChef Australia and I diligently snapped away
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with the camera as he threw together stock (known as bouillon), spiced the meat and precooked it slightly. The stock was then injected straight into the meat using an enormous silver syringe straight out of a Hitchcock film. The most exciting part was the flame-grilling finale. Harm-Jan is sponsored by Jack Daniel’s and as such uses the whiskey in all his cooking. A bottle of Jack Daniel’s, complete with a spraying cap, was his very original version of a “secret sauce” and made the flames jump around the “springbokkie’s” leg excitedly. Harm-Jan made his obligatory speech as he presented his friends and family, as well as the rest of the lodge’s guests, with the final product, a perfectly medium-rare springbok leg. The first taste was a wake-up call. The Jack Daniel’s gives the meat the most surprising and amazing salty-sweet caramelized taste. I had never tasted anything like it and every bite was an adventure. Alexa’s accompanying sides and her mouthwatering goat (boerbokkie) pie rounded the evening’s menu off to something that not even Gordon Ramsey could find fault with. A spectacular lodge with friendly and welcoming hosts, situated in one of the most amazing areas of Namibia, a group of new friends and a whiskey-soaked springbokkie on the flames accumulated in an experience I will never forget. Harm-Jan and his group set off the following day to their next destination, a Christmas braai at Phalaborwa. I was sad that I wouldn’t quite fit into one of their suitcases, especially not after the previous night’s spread. I never thought I would award a title such as Braai King to a non-Namibian, but the Meat Man at Moon Mountain’s braai was hands down the best I had ever had…(sorry Dad). TNN
FOODIES
ENJOY HARM-JAN’S SPRINGBOKKIE FOR YOURSELF! Ingredients: • Springbokkie leg including loin • Stock of springbokkie with fresh vegetables • Olive oil • Rosemary • Sambal • BushKitchen herbs (vegetable herbs, chilli, garlic, onion and cajun) • Garlic cloves • Onion • Chilli pepper • Soy sauce • Sweet BBQ rub • Jack Daniel’s • Braai salt
MORE INFO To book your stay at the spectacular Moon Mountain Lodge visit www.staytoday.com.na for amazing deals and getaway packages. You can see some of Harm-Jan’s most spectacular braai destinations on his website (www.bushkitchen.nl), Facebook page or YouTube channel (Google translate will assist with the language barrier).
Preparation: Make a marinade of BBQ rub, olive oil, chilli, braai salt, vegetable seasoning, garlic and soy sauce. Spread the marinade over the leg with a brush. Insert a notch in the soft flesh every 10 cm with a knife and put a clove of garlic into each indentation. Lay the leg on the braai directly over the fire (this sears the meat nicely), and turn the leg regularly. Inject the leg with the stock every 4 cm and spray the leg every 10 minutes with Jack Daniels. This will caramelize the meat and give it a nice brown colour. This can also be done with apple juice. Grill the leg for 30 minutes on the barbecue, depending on the size of the leg. There should be a crust and the meat must not yarn. Take a baking dish and place the leg into it. Pour the remainder of the stock over the leg. Put fresh rosemary sprigs on the leg and into the stock. Place the dish in an oven pre-heated to 160-170 °C, depending on the thickness of the leg, for one hour to one and a half hour in the oven and let the leg yarn until the core temperature of the springbokkie is 50 °C (medium-rare). Remove the leg and let it rest until the meat is tackled. Serve the leg with the stock from the oven, fresh rosemary and salt to taste.
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OTJIMBONDONA KALAHARI The place of the “little” camelthorns and the grand views
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s one turns off the tarred road just past Windhoek’s International Airport, the adventure starts. Namibian author Piet van Rooyen wrote recently that this region has always been an important haven for game. Even today the highest density of game per square kilometre in Namibia is found here. It is a natural reservoir of animals, a kind of paradise, he wrote. And so it is. Along the side of the white gravel road, and behind ordinary or high game fences, we spot gemsbok, kudu, duiker, hartebeest, impala, steenbok and warthog – even a giraffe. We marvel at the thick billowing clouds against the clear blue sky and the smell of the damp red earth. Wilfred and Anita Slaney’s history is rooted in the Namibian soil. To grow up on a farm in Africa creates a connection that stays part of you forever. So when they had the choice to further their engineering careers outside the country of their birth, they opted to bring up their children in Namibia. After more than 20 years in the tourism sector, they took the bold step to invest in an upmarket lodge with four exclusive villas on the farm where Wilfred’s grandparents had settled almost a hundred years ago. In the Herero language Otjimbondona means the place of the little camel thorns. But don’t be fooled. The camel thorn trees along the way to the farm east of the capital are all but small. The Herero people called it that, because from the place where Wilfred’s grandmother built her house on top of a
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hill, the trees do look small compared to the endless vista. The Slaneys’ knowledge of what visitors want, their love of the land and their warm Namibian hospitality are evident when you step out of your car on top of the hill, in awe of the breathtaking, 360-degree view. Against this backdrop stands a most amazing modern architecturally designed structure with, at the heart of it, the original rooms of grandmother Slaney, built in the local stone by an Italian stonemason. The wooden deck with infinity pool facing the setting sun, a modern gym with a view, deep leather couches, breezy fabric and lovely artwork, Methode Cap Classique on ice, warm home-baked bread and secluded elegant villas, these tell only part of the story.
ADVERTORIAL
One of four secluded villas, each with its own plunge pool on the deck, an elevated sala* on stilts among the trees, with suspended chairs to watch the activities at your private waterhole. Enjoy a romantic dinner under the stars. * Open pavilion, used as a meeting place and to protect people from sun and rain.
The first part of the story started in the 1980s when Wilfred, who had obtained his pilot’s licence as a student, flew guests for the late Louw Schoeman’s Skeleton Coast Safaris. “For me, a pilot is not only a pilot, but also a host, a guide, an important leader of the group, who must ensure the best experience for the guests,” says Wilfred, who hosted fly-in adventures from Cape to Cairo, to Botswana and all across southern Africa. “My aircraft is parked on the landing strip down the hill, ready to take guests on scenic flights, day-trips and fly-in safaris to anywhere in the country." The villas are positioned to make you feel as if you are alone on the planet. From anywhere inside the villa you have a view – even from the shower. Each villa is decorated to reflect a different theme with stunning images and elegant design features. A ceramic fireplace, soft luxurious linen, quilts and throws, special details and personal touches, such as a refreshingly quirky wildflower on the pillow and an espresso machine in the lounge, are carefully planned to make you feel like the special guest you are. The Slaneys’ experience with hosting personal safaris all over southern Africa is manifested to the smallest detail in Otjimbondona. TNN
www.otjimbondona.com Anita Slaney +264 81 243 5478 Wilfried Slaney +264 81 127 4358 info @otjimbondona.com anita@profilesafaris.com
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PAUL VAN SCHALKWYK Chasing rain...
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PHOTOGRAPHIC FEATURE
I have seen vistas opening up beneath my airplane’s wings, a valuable and treasured experience which, in photographing, I hope to communicate the need for appreciation and protection. Paul van Schalkwyk, October 2013
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Dust rises as rain disrupts the desert surface
Rain sweeping over the desert
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PHOTOGRAPHIC PHOTOGRAPHIC FEATURE FEATURE
A raincloud makes its way over Etosha Pan
A dramatic pillar of rain as a storm cloud breaks over the landscape
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Paul van Schalkwyk tried to capture the extraordinary or unexpected. Often it can be found right there in front of everyone’s eyes, hidden behind the camouflage of the ordinary. It requires the searching eye of the photographer to lift the veils and sometimes work through many layers of deception to discover or expose a new essence or image unexpected. "Through my work I am bringing to an audience the opportunity to view and enjoy with me the stunning splendour of desert rains and its profound effect on our world." These images by Paul van Schalkwyk, depict the transformation of the desert landscape caused by rain – water, moisture, mist and reflections. In his words: "In my quest to follow the erratic and often unpredictable path of rainstorms over the desert I am trying to capture something the 'normal' eye does not have the capacity or privilege to behold. Apart from the obvious aesthetics I am also trying to record something which is really unexpected or out of the ordinary. Rain in the desert is not common, it is rather unique. The desert rains usually sweep in within a few hours, then let go and disappear as quickly as they came, leaving their direct effects to exist as momentary evidences. Being able to fly enables me to follow or intercept the elusive desert rainstorms when they appear in real time. By doing this I am observing and capturing phenomena, which are not readily accessible to everyone. That is just one aspect that makes my photographs unique." TNN
It is not merely a photograph. It is a thriller of nature in full force, condensed into an instant. It is evidence of all existence from beginning to end, in an instant. 52
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PHOTOGRAPHIC FEATURE
Sueda Fountain, in Etosha National Park, alive with water
Water gathers between the dunes at Sossusvlei after a good rainy season
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TNN goes camping with
CYMOT
Text Marita van Rooyen Photographs Elzanne Erasmus
Tent pegging in and around the city
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he great expanse of this land will already be obvious upon touchdown at Hosea Kutako International Airport. It is here – most likely on the long walk to the terminal building – that you’ll find yourself wondering if you’ve accidently been dropped in the middle of a lost and alien setting. (Word of advice: keep calm and get used to the feeling). Even if you are a self-driver on a momentous journey through Namibia, Africa, or the world, it will be, without doubt, one of your very first cross-border conversation starters. Namibia’s space is a feature that puts this country on the world’s-most-amazingplaces-to-see-before-you-die list, and for very good reason.
Silent sensations There are very few places on this planet that still offer the luxury of crisp, clean air, supplied straight from a plethora of wildly growing oxygen producers. Similarly, there are just as few spots where wildlife still roam free and co-exist, undisturbed, with their human counterparts. This very exclusive state of affairs is mainly due to the fact that there is space for all of God’s creatures, including you and your extended family – plus your entire camping shebang. Camping is without doubt one of the best ways to explore this unique and diverse selection of wide vistas and picture-pretty panoramas that 13 different ethnic groups call home. Not only does it bring you in direct contact with the local people, their cultures, traditions and back doors (aka natural surroundings), but it also gives you the chance to enjoy the rare sensation of silence.
Do it with a tent Admittedly, camping is not everyone’s mug of campfire brew, but in a country like Namibia, you’d almost miss the whole point if you don’t spend at least one night zipped-up in canvas under Namibian stars. There is very little that can compare to the feeling of being awakened by the first cry of the guinea fowl, unzipping your tent to pink-tinged skies, and lazily stepping out into pristine early-morning nature. For nervous novices on their first camping safari, it is recommended to first test the ground on one of the sites in or around the capital city. Not only is it a good opportunity to find out whether you have all your tent pegs packed (and if not, still have the luxury to be saved by CYMOT), it also gives you time to slowly acclimatise and adjust to the great outdoors. What’s more, camping in close proximity to the city will be a soft entrance into the real bush adventure that awaits. Most of the ‘city’ sites offer luxuries similar to the more formal accommodation options located throughout the country. Facilities usually include a restaurant – with proper home-cooked meals, bar, curio shop, hot running water, flush toilets, power points and, in most cases, access to a swimming pool.
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TNN GOES CAMPING
The vastness of space in Namibia is seriously hard to ignore. Stretching as far as the eye can see, horizon greets horizon, whether comprising mountain, grassland, rocky outcrop or sandy plains.
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3 4 5 TOP TEN CAMPING SPOTS: IN AND AROUND WINDHOEK Endless space, endless options There are almost as many campsite options as there is space. Close to the airport, Afrika Farm Ondekaremba hosts campers under lush acacia trees. An added attraction is a stargazing telescope with which to admire one of the darkest skies on the planet – from the stoep of a historical 115-year-old farm house. A bit farther down the highway, Trans Kalahari Inn provides grassy lawns for extra padding, plus proper spots for the evening fire. In the midst of civilisation, on the outskirts of the township and bordering the Goreangab Dam, Penduka is excellent place to become acquainted with aspects of Namibian life. Here women empower themselves through needlework and beadwork projects. It is the starting point for the one and only guided cycle tour through the Kasi. An alternative in-thecity option is Urban Camp, where you can lounge about in hammocks in the lapa while savouring a game-drive burger (a game and crocodile patty). And if burgers are not your thing, take the very short ”hiking trail” to Namibia’s most famous restaurant, Joe’s Beerhouse, or try some pizza across the road at Klein Windhoek Guest House. Located a bit further out of the city, San Karros Daan Viljoen boasts a good selection of animal and bird species. At Elisenheim there’s horse riding. Friedenau Dam gives the option
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(All located within 50km of the city) 1. Afrika Farm Ondekaremba 2. Düsternbrook Guest Farm 3. Elisenheim Guest Farm 4. Friedenau Dam 5. Melrose Game Farm 6. Monteiro 7. Penduka 8. San Karros @ Daan Viljoen 9. Trans Kalahari Inn 10. Urban Camp of fresh-water swimming, boating and wetting those fishing lines. Düsternbrook is another good choice, with a range of wildlife activities, including a mini Okavango experience with hippos, and a cheetah and leopard drive. As is the case all over the country, every camping spot has its charm and it really just depends on what kind of tent pitching, or rooftop popping experience you’re looking for. Point remains: it won’t take long until you start feeling comfortable with the abundance of breathing space and reconnect with your natural rhythm. And now that you’ve tasted silence and freedom, and are sure about having all your tent pegs in tow, the true Namibian adventure beckons.
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Don’t Forget!
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So what are you waiting for? Autumn is camping season! (Of course in Namibia, so are winter, spring, and summer, but we’ll leave those for upcoming editions). TNN
ESSENTIALS: 14 CAMPING TIME TO GEAR UP! 1. Greensport two-man canvas tent 2. Malamoo 3 second Pop-up tent 3. Coleman Chest Cooler with wheels 4. Greensport Directors Chair with side table 5. Groundsheet 6. LaPlaya Traveller Mug 7. Stanley Flask 8. Field Kettle 9. Dishwashing table and sink 10. Braai Grill 11. Cooking Pot (potjie) 12. Greensport Bedroll 13. Greensport "Trekker" Sleeping Bag 14. GI xlarge stretcher
Be sure to tick these items off your CYMOT checklist before departing on your next Namibian camping adventure: Camera and accessories Canteen/Water Bottle Cash/credit cards/traveller’s cheques Driver’s license Emergency Phone Numbers First Aid Kit Maps/GPS Mosquito Protection Passport Medication Sun Protection Jerry Can with diesel/petrol Mosquito Net Tool Kit Car Spares (jack, compressor, tow rope) Appropriate clothing (hat, hiking boots, warm clothes) Toiletries Towel Matches All available at
HEAD OFFICE & WAREHOUSE 15 Newcastle Street PO Box 726 Windhoek Tel: (+264 61) 295 6000 info@cymot.com www.cymot.com
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AUTUMN WEATHER AT A GLANCE
Compiled Annabelle Venter Photograph Paul van Schalkwyk
Have you planned a trip to Namibia in our autumn months? If not, maybe it’s not too late to do so this year! It’s well known that this is a special time to visit as the weather is becoming cooler and the country is beautifully green (if the precious rains have fallen). There’s a sense of renewal, and the inhabitants, both two- and four-footed, are set up for another year in our semi-arid land. 58
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WEATHER IN AUTUMN Etosha is simply stunning in autumn, with young antelope born during the rains dotting the plains, leading to some great predator action. You might even find breeding flamingos on the pan in a good rain year. Summer visitor birds are getting ready to leave southern Africa by the first week in April. By the end of autumn, the elephants that have migrated to follow the summer rains in Angola start returning to the park. Up north-east in the Zambezi region, lots of rain falls well into April. Standing water makes
secondary roads waterlogged and gives rise to the possibility of contracting malaria. But the risk is worth it for the sheer magic you’ll find – green savannahs, sparkling summer birds, and leaves on the otherwise bare trees. Down south you could be treated to rolling swathes of grasslands that stretch out to the horizon and again a sense of relaxation and wellbeing pervades for now. So what are you waiting for? Grab your camera and mosquito repellent and jump on a plane!
MAX/MIN TEMPERATURES (CELSIUS)
AVERAGE NAMIBIAN RAINFALLS
March
April
May
Windhoek
27/15
26/13
23/9
Swakopmund
23/15
24/13
Zambezi
31/18
30/15
March
April
May
Windhoek
81 mm
38 mm
6 mm
23/11
North-Eastern
96 mm
37 mm
2 mm
29/10
Coastal
8 mm
2 mm
2 mm
SUNRISE & SUNSET WINDHOEK
Remember the time changes on 5 April!
Sunrise
Sunset
21 March
06h55
19h01
21 April
06h06
17h33
21 May
06h19
17h16
5 March
• Do remember to consult your doctor before leaving home, to find out what the best anti-malarial prophylaxis is for you. This is PRIME MALARIA time, especially north of Windhoek, and travelling in these areas is HIGH RISK at this time of the year. • Malaria is still the number-one killer disease in Africa and the risk should not be taken lightly.
MOON PHASES Full Moon
AUTUMN HEALTH HAZARD
New Moon
Micro Moon
Autumn Equinox
20 March
5 March at 20h06
21 March at 00h45
A micromoon occurs when the moon is farthest from the earth
Equinox means the day and night are of equal length
4 April
18 April
4 May
18 May
GENERAL AUTUMN SAFETY PRECAUTIONS • Because it’s still raining into April, rivers that appear to be dry could flood, so don’t camp in a dry riverbed. • Be careful about driving across flowing rivers – wade in first if you can and if possible don’t go it alone! • Keep an eye on the lightning and if it’s really close, take shelter in your vehicle or accommodation.
*AUTUMN TIME: In Namibia we employ daylight saving during the summer. So on 5 April this year we’ll turn our clocks BACK 1 HOUR which brings us to winter time. This means we’ll have more light in the morning as the days get shorter, making it slightly easier to get up on a cold winter’s morning! Namibia’s time zone during our winter is therefore GMT+1.
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THE
ROCK CLIMBER DIARIES Compiled Elzanne Erasmus Photographs C.J. van der Westhuizen
Few people are aware of the many rock-climbing challenges Namibia has to offer. As hikers and climbers discover ever more areas, the sport is becoming increasingly popular, both with locals and with visitors from abroad.
ADVENTURE
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he Spitzkoppe, at 1,728 metres, was first ascended in 1946. Since then the range has attracted hundreds of climbers every year. As one of Namibia's most recognisable landmarks, and often referred to by climbers as the Matterhorn of Africa, the Spitzkoppe rises above the dusty pre-Namib plains of southern Damaraland as if out of a mirage.
a very sought-after climb that is well bolted. The South West Wall is home to many popular routes such as Watersports (20), the South West Wall Route (24), INXS (24) and Herero Arch (26). Along the highest peak of the Pondok Mountains – Pondok Spitz – you'll find the route To Bolt or Not To Bolt (18), a five-star climb that's not excessively difficult. Sugarloaf Mountain also has great bolted routes.
Considered a climber’s paradise, the Spitzkoppe and surrounding areas – including the Pondok (or Pontok) Mountains (because they resemble the rounded Damara huts called pondoks) – boast over 30 natural and 30 sport climbs. Sport climbing entails routes that are secured with bolts, whereas natural climbing involves unsecured climbing techniques or "free climbing".
Although the Spitzkoppe surroundings are considered to be the most popular climbing destination in Namibia, there are many other areas for climbers, including Omandumba in the Erongo Mountains, Aussenkehr on the southern border of Namibia and the Midgard country estate, 90 km north-east of Windhoek.
In Namibia, climbing routes are rated in accordance with the Ewbank system as measured in technical difficulty, exposure to the climber, length, quality of rock, protection and other smaller components: the higher the rating, the more difficult the route. Popular climbs in the Spitzkoppe surrounds include the route Goldfinger (21) on Rhino Horn,
Reading about height statistics and the techniques used to grade routes does not unveil the ins and outs of rock climbing, though. As with many adventure sports, it is the passion of the adventurers that drives their love of the sport, and makes them strive to reach new heights, in this case quite literally. So maybe it is best if you hear from them.
Getting hooked 2013 was a life-changing year. It took 37 years for me to find something that I did not even know I was looking for. At a coffee bar an old school friend asked me if I would like to go climbing with them that weekend and as I have always loved climbing up mountains to enjoy great views, I said: “Yes!” To my surprise they had a rope, special shoes and lots of other interesting things with them. That was the day I had my first go on a sports climbing route on the Schattenwand at Omandumbe Erongo Mountains. I was hooked straight away, obtained my own gear and joined the climbing community to go friction climbing at Namibia’s favourite climbing site, the Spitzkoppe. After that I used every chance I could get to go climbing, from bouldering at Avis to the climbing areas close by Windhoek. Unfortunately, in the last six months I was not able to go climbing as the closest climbing area is 840 km away from where I work now. As my soul needs to be at one with the climbing rocks of Namibia I am now looking forward to get a job closer to those steep slopes that leave my heart beating. I have found that life can be so much more if you’re looking down at it from a mountainside, and I thank the people who introduced me to this lifestyle every day. I can't wait to go climbing with these incredible people in one of Namibia’s great spots again.
Roland Graff
– Sven
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A guidebook entitled Spitzkoppe and Pontoks Namibia by Eckhardt Haber contains all the route information of the area. To date, the highest peak of the Spitzkoppe has been reached by climbers more than 600 times. Members of Namibia’s rock-climbing community form part of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA), which has a Namibian charter. The club facilitates and engages in mountaineering, climbing of all types including boulder climbing, hiking, international expeditions, mountain search and rescue, training, the conservation of mountain areas, and the procurement of access for mountaineering.
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ADVENTURE
The Great Arch The alarm clock went off... It's 4:30. A little bit more sleep would have been nice, but it was time to start our journey. A quick cup of coffee, a small piece of bread, and Roland and I were on our way. For me there were mixed emotions, a dream coming true. But do I have what it takes? I never thought this day would dawn so quickly. After one hour of scrambling with head lamps, our timing was perfect, with just enough sunlight to be able to start our climbing ascent. Gearing up with a couple of cams I took on the first pitch. Two steps and I could feel that this one was going to be a challenge. The first move is over a crumbling block and there is nothing for your feet. The rest was fair with a runout towards the end. I think the second pitch was probably the most difficult. It was a very slippery off-width crack with the crux move right at the end. Considering the rope drag, Roland climbed very well. Next it was my turn again. On the third pitch the crack continues for a couple of meters and is then swallowed by the huge face of the South West Wall. And, as we all say, happiness is a bolt. It was a bit of a mental adjustment switching from crack climbing to face climbing. In a big pocket, Roland was preparing for the fourth pitch. This one really looked hard. Two aided moves on an
overhang granite face is no easy task. This one took a lot out of me, I must admit. On pitch five, the bolts were quite close and it was my turn again. Halfway into the pitch Roland said: “I think this one is a 23”. All I could say was: “Thanks for telling me now!” His response: “I know you can do it”. Does that sound familiar? Then we were standing at the beginning of the great arch, the Herero Arch. Roland took the lead again. The first bolt was quite far away. Somehow this arch helps you when it feels like there is nothing to hold on to, even if you can just support your back against it. It was my turn again, the second pitch on the arch, pitch seven. We reached the end of the pitch at twelve o' clock. There was shade in the arch but the rays of the sun lit up the whole South West Wall as they hit the rock. We had to decide whether we were going to continue into the sun and heat, or call it a day. After Roland went out onto the traverse pitch to test the heat of the sun, we decided to call it quits. I enjoyed every single moment of the climb. My climbing shoes were pushed to their limit. Even the fact that we did not summit was great because our climbing journey did not become a climbing mission.
– Maarten TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA AUTUMN 2015
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I've learned that everyone wants to live on top of the mountain, but all the happiness and growth occurs while you're climbing it - Andy Rooney
DID YOU KNOW There are a few climbing areas within 20 km of Windhoek, but these are usually on privately owned property where the right of admission is reserved. The climbing company, Urban Friction, facilitates climbs in popular spots throughout Namibia. No experience is needed to join these climbing tours, and they are open to everybody, from amateurs to professionals. MCSA Namibia hosts regular outings to Spitzkoppe during winter. Dates for scheduled climbs can be found on the website MCSA Namibia: www.mcnam.org
ADVENTURE
The big question To summit or not to summit is the real question. It’s been months of preparation and every manner of exercise to be able to go up Pontok Spitze. By the first of May we were all at the Spitzkoppe for some amazing climbing. At that point there were four climbers, Evan and I, and Maarten and Daniel as a team to ”to bolt or not to bolt”. The weather was still too hot and we decided to wait until it was cooler with some more shade. So it was… “Not to summit”. After all, it was Daniel’s very first time at Spitzkoppe, and we needed to do more training and gain some more experience. We therefore decided to rather go up Rhino Horn, and what an amazing expedition that was! And a real windy one as well! Evan and I managed a few other long routes too, and Maarten and Daniel also had some great climbs. They kept on with their training for the whole month at Falkenstein. June came and another climbing weekend was organised, and so the four of us decided to summit. Even though Evan and I did not have adequate time to train physically, mentally we were set up for a whole day’s climb. On arrival that Friday we did two quick warm-up climbs and on Saturday, at 5 a.m., the four of us started the route with a long and difficult hike. After a beautiful sunrise we were ascending the first tricky pitches. Maarten and Daniel were ahead while we followed, all moving at a good pace, with eight pitches before reaching the summit. In the meantime, not far from the Spitzkoppe, Swakopmund had been blowing away. The weather conditions became quite unpleasant and with every pitch the ever-nagging question returned: to summit, or not to summit? Even though the wind was punishing us on that big wall and draining our energy, we still kept moving. Evan asked Maarten how the ‘18’ felt (pitch five) and his reply was, “Like Rhino Horn”, but I can only guess that it was the wind that reminded him of Rhino Horn at that level. We still had enough time after Evan did a great ascent up pitch five, with Maarten and Daniel ahead. By the end of the sixth pitch, the off-width route was a real energy breaker and we couldn't move any farther. Maarten got up that crack of a chimney. What an awesome climb!
Elzanne Erasmus
– Cornel
Camping at the Spitzkoppe There are few experiences as amazing as camping at the Spitzkoppe. The unbelievable clarity of the Namibian night sky and the absolute silence will leave you wishing the sun wouldn’t come up until noon. For a truly special experience, plan your next camping trip there to correlate with the full moon and get a sense of how Neil Armstrong felt.
Spitzkoppe Rest Camp is a community-based tourism initiative. The 31 campsites, nestled into their own private nooks, can accommodate a maximum of eight persons each. The campsites have dry toilets only, but hot showers are available at reception. Members of the local community come by the campsites in a donkey cart each day to remove rubbish. TNN
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THE CURIOUS CASE of the DIK-DIK DRIVE
Sean McCulloch
Text Elzanne Erasmus
Karin Malherbe
I was brimming with anticipation as I drove north from Windhoek with a group of close friends for a visit to Etosha National Park recently. I had never visited the park in the summer before, never seen it green and blooming and wet. I’d never been there when the waterholes were superfluous and when you had doubt in your mind whether the shimmer on the pan was the usual mirage or actual water.
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his time round I was extremely happy to find that it wasn’t the bending of the sun’s rays bamboozling my eyes, but rather the accumulation of the November rainfall. I had visited the park during the winter high season in June, and was excited to experience a new side of this old favourite. My three companions and I decided that it was high time we explored some of the less mainstream routes available in the park. It’s almost too easy on your way in from Von Lindequist Gate to take the first turn-off to your left and start your next spectacular Etosha trip on Dik-dik Drive. Home to one of Africa’s smallest antelope, the drive is more than willing to appease each and every traveller in search of this small and gentle creature. The Damara dik-dik is Namibia’s smallest antelope species. They frequent the eastern karst
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woodlands and love pitter-pattering around the tamboti woodlands near Namutoni. On our first trip down Dik-dik Drive we spotted our first dik-dik no more than 40 metres in. Trying to hide from the fierce Namibian summer sun, the little ram stayed in the shade of the leaves as he lazily trotted a bit farther into the underbrush, glancing back at us once or twice before disappearing from sight. Dik-dik number two followed soon afterwards. As our first trip down the drive had been so successful we decided to continue exploring some other less-travelled routes around Namutoni. We set off north from Namutoni on the drive around Fischer’s Pan, which none of us had ever explored. The pan, named after Lieutenant Adolf Fischer who was stationed at Namutoni in the 1880s, is home to a large variety of water
EXPLORE ETOSHA Damara dik-dik (Madoqua damarensis): • They are the smallest antelope in Namibia. • They occur in eastern karst woodlands, especially in the tamboti woodlands east of Namutoni. • They form monogamous pairs. • The male has tiny horns on either side of a reddish tuft of hair on top of its head.
birds such as greater and lesser flamingos, Egyptian geese, African spoonbills and white pelicans during the rainy season. Regular plains game and giraffe also abound. We were even treated to a rare Etosha sighting of eland on the northern edge of the pan. The route around the pan is approximately 30 km long. It would be advisable for future would-be Fischer’s Pan adventurers to note that the road strays far away from anything resembling a bathroom for quite a while. We learned this the hard way as the morning’s coffees and the cooldrinks we had stocked-up on at Namutoni led to, what will forever be known as The Fischer’s Pan Bathroom Debacle of December 2014. As we were on our way out of the park that day we could not resist one final trip down our new favourite road. We had almost finished the route and had been treated to giraffes drinking at the Klein Namutoni waterhole, a natural spring frequented by plains game such as impala and zebra, when we spotted dik-diks number three and four. Damara dik-diks
form monogamous pairs and the couple were all too happy lying by the side of the road after a tiring day (probably doing pretty much nothing) to be in any way disturbed by our presence.
Their relaxed and timid natures made for extremely enjoyable photographic opportunities as they lay there peering up at us from under long, elegant lashes. The little guy and girl leisurely carried on nibbling at branches, having a much-needed siesta in the shade while we snapped on from two metres away. It is not often that you can recommend a certain area of a national park to other travellers with a guaranteed spotting of a specific animal, but on this visit to Etosha I was glad to be proven wrong. We returned to the park the next day and went down the drive twice more, both times spotting the little antelopes peeping out between the low bush branches. With a success rate of four for four, I can now say with confidence that a Damara dik-dik will be found on Dik-Dik Drive if you only bother to glance downward and look for it. TNN
Popular Namutoni area waterholes:
Elzanne Erasmus
• Springbokfontein: spot the springbok “pronk”. • Okerfontein: keep your eyes peeled for bat-eared foxes and African wild cats. • Kalkheuwel: watch elephants have a shower that leaves them gray-white. • Chudop: spot the lions often resting under trees near the water. • Namutoni: enjoy the floodlit waterhole at night if you’re staying at Namutoni camp. • Tsumcor: look out for caracal, aardwolf and honey badgers during the late afternoon.
DESERT FAIRY TRAILS Text and Photographs Helge Denker
ELEVEN THEORIES: The circles are caused by 1. toxins from Euphorbia plants 2. competition for water and nutrients among grasses 3. termite activity 4. toxins from old termite nests 5. UFOs 6. zebra dust bathing 7. seepage of harmful gases or toxic compounds 8. fungi or bacteria 9. radioactivity 10. magnetism or other energy fields 11. continental plate tectonics.
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FAIRY CIRCLES
The fairy circles of the Namib – those bizarre patches of circular bare ground dotting desert grasslands – have probably elicited wider speculation than any other natural phenomenon in Namibia. Ranging from the highly esoteric to the downright mundane, from the deeply scientific to the purely fanciful, theories and assumptions abound. While some believe that they have found conclusive answers, the world’s first Fairy Circle Symposium showed that even the experts can’t agree – at least not yet. TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA AUTUMN 2015
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wenty-eight fairy circle enthusiasts, most of them distinguished scientists with published work on fairy circle dynamics, came together at Wolwedans on the NamibRand Nature Reserve in the last days of February to share and discuss research results and hypotheses. Hypotheses because, even though fairy circles have received focussed scientific attention since the 1970s, no results put forward to date conclusively prove the cause of the phenomenon. Namibia offers many natural wonders. Spectacular landscapes and stunning geology. Fascinating climatic conditions and unique ecological processes. Strange plants and enigmatic animals. Even some of the world’s largest bacteria. Within this illustrious assortment of oddities and wonders, fairy circles are amongst the most mysterious. They are obvious for all to see, yet cannot be easily explained. They occur in some of the most picturesque parts of Namibia and dominate entire landscapes, yet their distribution is patchy. There are distinct fairy circle "hotspots" in the NamibRand and Dieprivier areas of the southern Namib, in the vicinity of Namibia’s highest mountain, the Brandberg, and in several locations in Kaoko in the far north-west. In other areas where one might expect them, they are curiously absent. Fairy circles are fascinating to look at. From the air, they can be seen blanketing entire grasslands in their thousands. At ground level, mysterious details become apparent. They are an enigma of the natural world. Scientists from around the globe have been studying them for over forty years. A wide range of experiments has been conducted, many using highly sophisticated technology. Research ranges from extensive mathematical modelling to explain the large-scale patterns that are created by
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FAIRY CIRCLES ELEVEN FACTS: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11.
Fairy circles are most common along the edge of the Namib Desert where the average annual rainfall is around 100 millimetres. The circles are most abundant in Stipagrostis grasslands on sandy ground. Something kills all grass in the circles and inhibits new growth. Individual circles have a cycle of formation, decline and disappearance. Some circles remain unchanged for decades; others come and go within a few years. The sand inside the circles is significantly moister than the surrounding sand. Various natural gases have been shown to occur in higher concentrations inside the circles. A fringe of taller grass often grows along the edge of the circles. In some areas, thousands of circles cover entire landscapes. The circles have been studied by dozens of scientists from different countries for more than 40 years. No research carried out to date has conclusively identified one single cause for fairy circle formation.
the circles, to the physical search for any organisms or poisons that might be causing the grass to die and the circles to form. An incredible wealth of data has been amassed. And yet the full complexity of a seemingly simple patch of bare sand remains unexplained. Only a handful of causes are still being seriously discussed and explored – that living organisms (insects, fungi, bacteria) are killing the grass; that poisonous compounds (natural gases, toxins) are responsible; or that competition for water and nutrients (often called self-organisation) is creating the circles. No evidence has yet proven incontrovertible. The most commonly postulated cause – termites – has been explored in many variations. The most recent version of the general hypothesis, published in 2013, is based on a wealth of data collected over many years from different areas. The theory suggests that a particular termite species, the sand termite (Psammotermes allocerus), creates a favourable local ecosystem for its colony by actively clearing a circular area of all grass to create a water reservoir. Moisture from sporadic rains is stored in the soil and, because it is not consumed by plants, creates a more hospitable microclimate for the termites than the surrounding desert. In effect, it is one of many examples of adaptation to extreme environments by animals and plants. Yet this postulate, like so many others, has been emphatically refuted by a number of fairy circle
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TWENTY-EIGHT EXPERTS AND ENTHUSIASTS WHO WERE AT THE FIRST EVER FAIRY CIRCLE SYMPOSIUM: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14.
Dr Carl Albrecht (South Africa) Dr Nichole Barger (USA) Dr Siegie Bauermeister (South Africa) Dr Golan Bel (Israel) Albi Brückner (Namibia) Stephan Brückner (Namibia) Professor Michael Cramer (South Africa) Dr Stephan Getzin (Germany) Felicitas Gunther (Germany) Quintin Hartung (Namibia) Vanessa Hartung (Namibia) Sebastian Hanss (Germany) Eric Hesemans (Namibia) Dr Willem Jankowitz (Namibia)
15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28.
Dr Norbert Juergens (Germany) Dr Eugene Moll (South Africa) Dr Yvette Naudé (South Africa) Nils Odendaal (Namibia) Cristián Fernández Oto (Belgium/Chilé) David Peddie (South Africa) Dr Egmont Rohwer (South Africa) Danica Shaw (Namibia) Sandy Todd (South Africa) Dr Walter Tschinkel (USA) Victoria Tschinkel (USA) Dr Noël van Rooyen (South Africa) Professor Gretel van Rooyen (South Africa) Dr Hezi Yizahaq (Israel)
researchers from different disciplines. The Fairy Circle Symposium thus came at an opportune time. Over the years, the idea of getting together as many as possible of the scientists who have studied fairy circles had been repeatedly suggested. The NamibRand Nature Reserve, a private reserve covering over two hundred thousand hectares of prime fairy circle landscape and one of the most breathtaking parts of our country, has been the study area of much of the fairy circle research carried out to date. With a variety of great accommodation options and a dedicated research centre, NamibRand provides ideal conditions for research – and for a symposium. The reserve management, in partnership with the management of the main tourism concessionaire, Wolwedans, took the initiative, contacted all the people and organised the symposium. To their credit, most of the invited fairy circle scientists came – knowing that their work was going to receive intense scrutiny from critical peers. Only a few researchers with published work related to fairy circles were unable to make it. The first day of presentations and discussions was a mind-boggling barrage of information on many different aspects of the phenomenon, followed by half a day of fascinating field visits and research demonstrations. Throughout, there were plenty of passionate discussions, as well as quiet,
informal exchanges over good food and drink. Cautionary wisdoms such as "correlation is not causation" put the difficulty of pinning down the definitive cause of fairy circles into context. Importantly, to stand any chance of being widely accepted, a theory has to explain and physically prove all – and not just some – of the characteristics of fairy circles. It appears that a complex chain of interconnected factors may be at work here and the symposium was excellent in sharing research and postulates around a great variety of elements, by bringing people face to face. While plenty of disagreement remains, scientists were already envisioning joint experiments and are looking forward to closer collaboration. The symposium was seen as a historic event. It was a great event for Namibia, for science and for the wonders and complexities of the natural world. The stunning landscapes of the NamibRand Nature Reserve and the style and comfort of the Wolwedans Camps provided the perfect ambience. On NamibRand, you can even adopt a fairy circle to help fund and further the cause of both science and conservation. And once you have spent some time out there, savouring that enchanting mix of dunes, plains and mountains, of colours, desert skies and vastness, it’s easy to imagine that the forces that shape this wonderland include the odd sprinkling of inexplicable magic. TNN
THREE GREAT WAYS TO SEE FAIRY CIRCLES: 1. From the ground: NamibRand Tourism; www.namibrand.org/Tourism.htm | www.wolwedans.com 2. From a hot-air balloon: Namib Sky Balloon Safaris; www.namibsky.com 3. From a small plane: Skeleton Coast Fly-In Safaris; www.skeletoncoastsafaris.com Or find them online at www.namibrand.org | www.fairycircles.com
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SCENIC AIR
A NEW DIRECTION FOR LOCAL AVIATION Text Marita van Rooyen Photographs Mike Böttger
F
lying, to me, is spiritual healing.” It was this sensation, paired with 'the sense of absolute freedom and the opportunity to experience a bird’s-eye view of our beautiful country' that made Mike Böttger hang up his robes as a lawyer and make his life-long passion for flying his prime business, joining up with Christa van Wyk, who has been in the aviation game in Namibia for over 20 years. As managing director of Scenic Air, Mike admits that he has been interested in flying from the word go. What sets him apart from other flying fanatics, however, is that he took the more serious route to obtain his wings. With a Master’s in Aviation Law he knows how important safety management and quality insurance are in the aviation industry. “My days as a lawyer provided the perfect backbone for managing a company built around charter flights and sky shuttle services.” Mike takes his business seriously. In the process of replacing the company’s older fleet with the latest, high-tech models, he recently acquired the best bush aircraft currently gracing the skies: the Quest Kodiak 100. Initially designed for missionaries who needed to access hard-to-get-to places with short landing strips, it is no secret that this model is ideal for Namibian conditions. With landing strips literally everywhere, whether in towns, near lodges, or on farms, the Kodiak has no problem landing wherever the wind takes it. And make no mistake, this 10-seater aircraft is not your everyday bush explorer. It boasts state-of-the-art avionics, including terrain awareness, Traffic Collision Avoidance System (TCAS) radar and a glass cockpit, and is even air-conditioned. Underlying the company’s commitment to tourism and showcasing the region’s
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SCENIC AIR
"Flying, to me, is spiritual healing.” It was this sensation, paired with “the sense of absolute freedom and the opportunity to experience a bird ’s-eye view of our beautiful country” that made Mike Böttger hang up his robes as lawyer and make his life-long passion for flying his prime business. prime, the second Kodiak is on its way, and a newly acquired 14-seater Cessna 208B Grand Caravan also forms part of the new fleet. “Scenic Air is motivated to provide a top-notch service for all safari guests, one that is extremely reliable and safe. We fly scenic routes to various destinations, because the journey to the lodge is an inevitable part of the adventure!” he enthused. As part of ensuring an A-grade experience, Scenic Air is in the process of introducing an automated narrative to enhance the flying experience. With automated storyboards, information is conveyed to passengers as they pass over noteworthy landmarks. As Mike explains, “flying – especially in a breathtaking place like Namibia – is not only about the visual impact, but it should also highlight the stories that make the country so intriguing.” Mike’s main mission is to let his love for flying, tourism, conservation and his country rub off on his passengers. “Namibia is now on everyone’s radar, which gives us the perfect opportunity to raise the level of service, and this includes the aviation industry. The quality of aircraft and the crew plays a very important role. Pilots should be more than that, they should have a broad knowledge of the terrain they are flying over, being guides that sell the country by word of mouth, and so cultivate repeat visitors.” Flying is not only safer than driving, but it saves precious time and provides an interesting perspective on the country’s diverse landscapes. With good weather, ample landing strips and long travelling distances that make flying the ideal travelling option, the country is “flying paradise”. But, flying in Namibia can also be a demanding task, as it is hot, high above sea level and has challenging landing strips. This is why safety, reliability, and efficiency are some of Scenic Air’s core values. Furthermore, meticulous maintenance and risk management are top priority. Pilots go through a serious vetting stage where they are – among other tests and trials – required to do a technical exam, pass a validation check ride with a DCA designated examiner and fly at least 50 hours with a senior captain prior to going on-line, and subject themselves to a comprehensive psychometric evaluation. “Scenic Air aims to be the initial training ground for tomorrow’s airline captain.” Scenic Air has offices in Swakopmund and Windhoek, and offers fly-in services all over southern Africa. With a vibrant, cosmopolitan mix of pilots and staff from all walks of life, Scenic Air is a happy company with happy clients, all ably coordinated by Christa van Wyk. So sit back, relax, and breathe in the spectacular space. TNN
CONTACT:
Windhoek Office: Tel: +264 61 249 268 Email: windhoek@scenic-air.com Swakopmund Office: Tel: +264 64 403 575 Email: swakopmund@scenic-air.com www.scenic-air.com
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A TRIBUTE TO THE
WISDOM AND KNOWLEDGE OF THE ZAMBEZI REGION
Paul van Schalkwyk
Text Ron Swilling
It was a rainy day on the banks of the Kwando River in Eastern Caprivi when I first had the privilege of catching a glimpse of Antje Otto’s life’s work. Condensed into the information panels at the Namushasha Heritage Centre, they crystallised more than thirty years of Antje’s research into the culture of the Eastern Zambezi (former Caprivi) Region, its traditional crafts, musical instruments, history and way of life.
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ver the next year the information on the panels would expand and grow into the book The People of Namibia’s Eastern Zambezi Region (Eastern Caprivi): A historical perspective as Antje dipped into her wealth of knowledge gleaned over a lifetime of dedicated study. The book was inspired and initiated by Mannfred Goldbeck of the Gondwana Collection. It all began in the mid-70s when, as an honours graduate in Anthropology, Antje was employed as a technician in the National Museum of Namibia. This started her "right on the ground floor", something Antje is grateful for, as it gave her her first taste of working with a collection – cleaning, cataloguing and even fumigating individual items. The artefacts piqued
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her interest and sent her scurrying to the library in search of information about their usage and how they were made. She quickly developed a love for these carefully crafted items. There were few of the older pieces left in the collection. Those collected in the late 1800s had been shipped to Germany before the establishment of the museum, and most of the items that were later housed in the Landesmuseum disappeared during WWI. Hardly anything remained from the Zambezi Region (then known as the Caprivi). Antje’s first trip to the north in 1980 was a major undertaking. The road was long and dusty and permits were required for fieldwork undertaken beyond the Mururani Gate. The army, however, ran regular flights from Grootfontein to Katima Mulilo.
Although the personnel initially refused to take Antje along, they soon capitulated. She drove the museum truck to Grootfontein, where she boarded the flight, and once in Katima, she joined two local officials from the Information Services in the field. This brought her into contact with many people who still practised the old traditions taught to them by their parents and their parents’ parents. She even met an old man whose father had been present at some of David Livingstone’s sermons. Antje found herself surrounded by a sea of knowledge where she had access to a rich oral tradition. Without paper and computers, the old people stored it all in their minds, passing it down to their descendants. Antje relates how the time spent with them "was a real gift". The area was remote. Lion spoor was still regularly seen on the roads, and the villages rarely had outside visitors. Antje remembers that once, while in a village, she felt someone playing with her hair. When she turned around, a little girl jumped up and ran away. The people laughed and said: “Ah! She has never seen a white person before.” Her flight home was one she would never forget. The aircraft was crammed with artefacts for the museum: wooden drums, carvings, clay pots and chairs. More than that though, Antje
had begun to collect an immense amount of knowledge. She returned to the north again and again, making six trips by road in the 1980s, and several more for an exhibition on the people of the Zambezi Region that has been on display at the National Museum of Namibia since 2012. She remembers these expeditions fondly, saying that she knew she would like to give something back to the people at some point in her life, so that the younger generations would be able to appreciate their parents and grandparents, and the crafts and traditions of old. Antje also became fascinated with the plants used to make the different items. Her field notes, accumulated over the years, lay in a drawer waiting for an opportune moment to be put to good use. That moment came when she met Mannfred Goldbeck, who asked her to assemble the information for the heritage centre, which led to this useful book. Described as an introduction to this lesser-known part of Namibia, its people, history and heritage, the book is jampacked with interesting information on topics as diverse as history, clay pots, musical instruments, social structure, clothing, traditional healers – and a list of plants used in the area, all meticulously recorded by Antje. An additional chapter on baobabs was written by Heike Pander. TNN
Antje says modestly that The People of Namibia's Eastern Zambezi Region: A historical perspective is "a tribute to the wisdom and knowledge of generations gone by" who faithfully pass this rich heritage on to successive generations.
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Photo courtesy of: Paolo Schneider
Namibia. Wild at heart.
An untamed wilderness that will always leave you spoilt for choice. Mother Nature is waiting for you.
NAMIBIA – Head office Channel Life Building, 1st floor Post Street Mall Private Bag 13244, Windhoek Tel: +264 61 2906 000 Fax: +264 61 254 848 Email: info@namibiatourism.com.na www.namibiatourism.com.na
GERMANY Schillerstrasse 42 – 44, D – 60313 Frankfurt am Main, Tel: +49 69 1337 360 Fax: +49 69 1337 3615 Email: info@namibia-tourism.com www.namibia-tourism.com
SOUTH AFRICA Cape Town Ground floor, The Pinnacle Burg Street, P O. Box 739 Tel: +27 21 4223 298 Fax: +27 21 422 5132 Email: namibia@saol.com
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