We have always needed the wild. Now more than ever - for its energy, its inspiration and a sense of hope for the future of our planet. This is why Ongava existsecotourism for the next generation.
is published by Venture Media in Windhoek, Namibia www.travelnewsnamibia.com
Tel: +264 61 383 450, Hypermotor City Unit 44, Maxwell street PO Box 21593, Windhoek, Namibia
MANAGING EDITOR Elzanne McCulloch elzanne@venture.com.na
PRODUCTION MANAGER Le Roux van Schalkwyk content@venture.com.na
PUBLIC RELATIONS Elzanne McCulloch elzanne@venture.com.na
LAYOUT & DESIGN Liza de Klerk design@venture.com.na
CUSTOMER SERVICE Bonn Nortjé bonn@venture.com.na
ONLINE MANAGER Ruairí Hammond digital@venture.com.na
TEXT CONTRIBUTORS
Pompie Burger, Le Roux van Schalkwyk, Lee Tindall, Helga Burger, Rièth van Schalkwyk, Willie Olivier, Ruairí Hammond, Katja Haase, Conrad Brain, Dirk Heinrich, Stéphanie Périquet, Charene Labuschagne, Namibian Pangolin Working Group
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Elzanne McCulloch, Pompie Burger, Le Roux van Schalkwyk, Lee Tindall, Helga Burger, Paul van Schalkwyk, Willie Olivier, Louis Wessels, Namibian Pangolin Working Group, Toni Hart, Liza de Klerk, Dirk Heinrich, Conrad Brain, Victoria Paige, Brent Lindeque, Martin Harvey, Katja Haase, Simone Micheletti
Travel News Namibia is published quarterly, distributed worldwide via Zinio digital newsstand and in physical format in southern Africa. The editorial content of TNN is contributed by the Venture Media team, freelance writers and journalists. It is the sole property of the publisher and no part of the magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.
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21, we're focussing on telling and sharing STORIES THAT MATTER across various magazines and digital platforms. Join the journey and share your ries with audiences that understand and value why certain things matter.
From my new office in Windhoek I am afforded the most spectacular view of the sky. Currently the quintessential bright blue is smattered with puffy white Cumulonimbus that makes every Namibian’s heart soar. It is the rainy season here in Namibia and our WhatsApp groups are inundated with reports and video clips of ephemeral rivers in the south of the country coming down in full force. The dry desertscapes are once again receiving their annual allowance of moisture and the powerful floodwaters have, for the second year in a row, reached Sossusvlei. An incredible sight to behold. Towering red ochre sand dunes, so iconic to everyone’s picture of Namibia, yet the usual dry white clay pans at their bases have been replaced by knee-deep dams of water. To me, this image in itself is an even better representation of what Namibia is. It is contrast.
The world, storytellers and marketers so often get stuck on a limited selection of images to represent Namibia. They stick with the dunes, the desert-meets-sea, and wildlife on the Etosha Pan. All of these form an intrinsic part of who we are as a destination, but there is so much more to show. Even when all one does is delve slightly deeper into these icons of Namibia, there are astounding stories hidden within. And if you are brave enough to look further afield, to the far-flung and often forgotten spaces on the periphery of what is thought to be “quintessential Namibia”, you are in for the biggest surprises and the most life-changing experiences.
So, with that in mind we set out in this Autumn issue to change your perception of what Namibia is. Our pages have once again been thoughtfully constructed to showcase the heart of this enigmatic land. Its people, its landscapes, its wildlife, its conservation successes, while at the same time taking you, the reader, beyond the status quo to destinations and experiences that are in contrast to what you may
From aerial conservation monitoring across the harshest terrains on the planet to destinations so far south you may not have ever considered adding them to an itinerary. They may be harder to reach, but they are well-worth the effort. Here the destination. Delve into the details of the Namib Tsaris Nature Reserve (I know you have never heard of it before) where each guest to the Ondili Group has contributed to the creation of almost 1000 ha of landscape-level conservation. Travel to the far northeast, Namibia’s peculiar protruding arm, and discover the wild wonders that lie hidden in this wetland paradise where termite mounds change the course of rivers and people and wildlife are well and truly neighbours. Discover new trees and take the time to learn their names. While you are there, learn about the difference between Plovers and Lapwings and explore not one, but three different national parks and five different perennial rivers. Observe, search deeper, stay longer. It's not all
This is Namibia, too. And we cannot wait to welcome you.
With love from Namibia,
Elzanne McCulloch @elzanne_mcculloch
Slowly drifting down the Kwando at sundown is a feeling of freedom that is impossible to describe.
- Le Roux
van Schalkwyk
@thisis_namibia
A beautiful throwback to when the Namib looked like a never-ending golden maize field after exceptional rains!
Image: Paul van Schalkwyk
All information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press. Due to uncertain circumstances, this may have changed after the date of publication. Please check businesses' individual websites for up-to-date details.
FOUR RIVERS p12
Go slow and experience the depth, wealth and wonder of the northeast
WILDLIFE SELFIES p26
Taking a serious look at a dangerous trend
PHOTOGRAPHY FEATURE p42
Acclaimed photographer, the late Paul van Schalkwyk, and his bird's-eye view
NAMIBIA'S WETTEST WONDERLAND p66
Tales of islands and ever-changing landscapes in the forgotten Nkasa Rupara
BIRDING p72
Pompie Burger tries to figure out the difference between Lapwings and Plovers
Hunting mode activated - A Fish Eagle perched and primed for the grab atop a tree in Bwabwata National Park
Torra Bay Campsite
Khorixas Camp
Waterberg Resort
Mile 108
Mile 72
Jakkalsputz
Mile 141
Von Bach Dam1
Gross Barmen Resort
Sun Karros Daan Viljoen1
Reho Spa1
Naukluft Camp
Sesriem Camp
Sossus Dune Lodge
Hardap Resort
Duwisib Castle
Shark Island
Hobas Lodge
Dolomite Resort
Terrace Bay Resort
Torra Bay Campsite
Khorixas Camp
Waterberg Resort
Mile 108
Mile 72
Jakkalsputz
Mile 141
Von Bach Dam1
Gross Barmen Resort
Sun Karros Daan
Reho Spa1
Naukluft Camp
Sesriem Camp
Sossus Dune Lodge
Hardap Resort
Duwisib Castle
Shark Island
Hobas Lodge
/Ai-/Ais Hot Springs Spa Boplaas Campsite
Etosha National Park Iona Skeleton Transfrontier Park Namib Naukluft Park Daan Viljoen Game Reserve Waterberg Plateau Park /Ai-/Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park BOTSWANA Kavango Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area SOUTH AFRICA 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.10 BUSH TELEGRAPH News from the tourism industry
18 LIVING WILD Chasing rain in the Namib
20 FLYNAMIBIA SAFARIS Reaching the best of Namibia and beyond
22 PANGOLIN PRESERVATION The world's most trafficked mammal
30 OF TEETH AND CLAWS Carnivore research in and around Etosha
32 THE DOVE-HUNTING BLACK-BACK JACKAL Intrigue at Chudop waterhole in Etosha
36 BREAKING THE ELUSIVE 100 The Lüderitz Speed Challenge
50 IT’S ABOUT TIME, NOT DISTANCE Aerial conservation over the northwest
52 CONSERVATION BEYOND BOUNDARIES The Namib Tsaris Nature Reserve
56 CONSERVATION AS A WAY OF LIFE Exploring community lodges with Journeys
62 MEET THE SAUSAGE TREE Getting to know the trees of the northeast
70 PARK OF THE PEOPLE The brilliant and bold Bwabwata
80 BUNDU BASHING Pompie’s view on driving in the Bush
The Am Weinberg Hotel in Windhoek has joined the Gondwana portfolio as of 1 February. Gondwana Collection Namibia will act in a management capacity. “We are honoured that there is so much trust in our brand and in our ability to run this iconic Windhoek hotel, which will now be proudly owned and managed by Namibians,” said the CEO of Gondwana, Gys Joubert.
Privately-owned Namibian airline FlyNamibia increases the flight frequency from Windhoek to Cape Town. As of 1 March, FlyNamibia flies six days a week, every day except Saturday.
The lifetime commitment and contribution to African conservation of Simson !Uri-≠Khob, Save the Rhino Trust Chief Executive Officer, was recognised in November 2021 by awarding him with the Prince William Lifetime Achievement Award at the annual TUSK Conservation Awards. This is arguably one of the most prestigious conservation awards on the continent. The lifetime achievement award pays tribute to Simson’s unwavering passion and dedication displayed over 30 years of protecting black rhinos in Namibia’s northwest. Each year the awards, held in London, UK, recognise and honour the important work that African conservationists perform to protect wildlife and biodiversity. The annual TUSK Conservation Awards were established in 2013 in partnership with the Duke of Cambridge and various sponsors to celebrate extraordinary achievements by individuals engaged in protecting Africa’s irreplaceable natural heritage.
Ongava Lodge and Little Ongava closed on 24 January for their annual low season deep maintenance, repairs, painting and general sprucing up of all properties as well as sharpening up personnel and systems. All four of the Ongava camps, including Ongava Tented Camp and Anderssons at Ongava, will be open again from Friday, 1 April 2022.
Namibia’s oldest family-owned tour operator, SWA Safaris, recently launched a new website. Visit swasafaris.com to see for yourself.
You may not be a tree lover or a birder. You may not even like camping or road-tripping. Days at a waterhole when the monotony of yet another gemsbok or springbok or zebra coming to drink may bore you to tears, and the thought of the foggy coast and the sound of crashing waves, the boring conversations of fishing trips and the catch of the day makes you wonder where else in Namibia a more exciting adventure could be waiting. Rièth van Schalkwyk followed the whim of a family member to break the tradition of Christmas at the seaside, packed the camper for two weeks of slow travel and camped on the banks of the Kavango, Zambezi, Chobe and Kwando to discover the magic of looking closer and staying longer.
Summer in Namibia is hot and dry. That is, in years when the rains are late or, even worse, fail to come. The end of 2021 was such a summer. The sky blue and bright, or hazy because of veld fires and strong winds. The veld colourless except for Shepherds trees edged against an ugly charcoal hue over last stretches of burnt land.
Come December, the collective trek usually heads westwards for a cool respite at the coast to escape the inland heat and drought. We decided to travel north instead. To find water and, if not so much the greenery, at least returning summer birds and flowering trees. By a stroke of luck or idiocy on the part of the colonial powers the waterrich north-east became part of Namibia. And how lucky that is. Called Caprivi for over a hundred years, but changed to Zambezi Region in late 2013 as if to claim it as our birth right, this is the only part of Namibia that is always wet, that always has abundant water even in the driest of dry periods. Two mighty rivers connect us to our four neighbours and provide fertile land for an abundance of trees to grow lush and high, providing different biomes to the rest of Namibia.
From around our campfires on a riverbank under the dark moon and starry night skies, we could see fires burning across the water or the flood plains and hear the drums of rituals – in another country. This fascinating piece of our land is a corridor for elephants criss-crossing between Angola, Zambia and Botswana. Zebras migrate in huge numbers in summer and although buffaloes are not in as big a hurry as in the Serengeti, they also move about and stay long enough for us to observe them close-up on the flood plains or in the woodlands. The Carmine Bee-eaters return to their nests in the banks of the Zambezi near Katima in early summer, but when you arrive too late in December they may have left already.
Our journey started in mid-December. As we approached Grootfontein along the B8, the clouds were building. Upon reaching the Mangetti the promise of rain was real as the
first showers moved our way. The Silver Cluster Leaf trees are so abundant along the tarred road and their shape is so recognisable that once you know their name, they are easy to identify. With Helga Burger’s Unbearable Beauty of Trees on my lap it was impossible not to be mesmerised by the parade we passed. For the time being, ignore the other seasons in the book. Just keep it open at Summer and stop when you see the first flowering tree. Pick a flower. Once seen, you will never fail to recognise a Raintree, Zambezi Teak, White Bauhinia or Thorny Teak. There are so many species and all of them have such exquisite flowers that when you study them close-up you will forever remember them. So much so that halfway through the journey you will notice the not so obvious trees with smaller flowers or those that have given their best show a week or two earlier, like the Peeling Bark Ochna or the Sand Camwood.
Nothing gave me more pleasure than finding the split-open fruit of a Natal Mahogany on the banks of the Chobe. So perfectly designed in black and red. Not to mention the fruit of the Pod Mahogany on the Kwando – its identical red and black beads in a fitting little shell. To discover the magic of identifying a tree by its form or its bark, like the False Mopane, the Mangetti or the Knob Thorn or Marula is exhilarating. With its pretty pink and yellow lanternlike flowers the Sickle Bush certainly looks like a Kalahari Christmas tree. The beautiful Jackalberry does not need flowers to attract attention. These trees are truly impressive – tall, green and lush with the most beautiful trunk and bark. Perfectly posed at a picnic spot in the Mahango.
Slow camping is a must in the northeast. Who can leave when the birds are so obliging at every camping site along every river? When a cruise on each one of the four rivers –even when the tiger fish don’t play along – is an adventure in itself? The skipper knows his turf. When the rivers are too low to navigate safely even in a canoe, join a guided drive on the flood plains. Guides do that every day. They know where to find a special breeding site or whether there
On a morning drive in the Mahango Game Park we watched a Monteiro’s Hornbill fly towards a tree trunk with something in his beak to feed either his mate or their chicks. It was a first for everyone. We knew hornbills bred in cavities in tree trunks, but to watch how the male flew back and forth with insects and berries was fascinating. When a female chooses a prepared site she breaks the plug to squeeze in and then bricks it up from the inside leaving just a tiny cavity to receive whatever the male brings back.
is a chance of seeing a lifer you have missed so far. They also know when hippos are too close for comfort. They love to share their knowledge. Even if you think you know everything there is to know about birds and their habits, skippers and guides may surprise you with more interesting facts. How deep into Zambia did we have to travel to see just the back of a sitatunga! On the Kwando we had the privilege of looking them in the eye more than once.
In the reeds lining the canal, serious birders in our group were treated to a rare sighting of an Allen’s Gallinule in perfect light posing for the perfect photograph. On the same trip a Lesser Jacana showed itself. The least interested birder would be tempted to become a bit more serious while travelling in this part of Namibia. It is just so easy. Who would not be excited to witness a Hornbill feeding chicks through a hole in a tree trunk covered up in mud with just a sliver of an opening to pass the food through?
One may not be at the right spot at the right time to see elephants crossing. But to stand on a platform in the river with your fishing rod in the water at sunrise or sunset must provide about the most romantic setting for anybody with a camera. Even if the early morning excursion on the water is more rewarding for birders than the anglers, the outing is worth every hour and the tiger fish will eventually succumb. You may be fortunate to spot cheetahs under a Mopane bush feasting on prey, or as we were, a lioness in the Buffalo area and two young leopards. A wild dog en route to Mudumu or a lion kill on the Botswana side of the Chobe River.
As a wise man once said, “don’t talk about the weather”. If it rains in mid-summer, as it normally does in the northeast, the days are warm, and humid. The rainstorms usually start in the afternoon, followed by crisp, cool mornings.
A truly wonderful fact about camping sites along these rivers is that they are mostly right on the riverbank. Not hidden away in the second or third row behind chalets blocking the view. Abundant water means that most camping sites have lawns sturdy enough to camp on. Spending hours with your binoculars, a cup of tea and a book on your lap watching the tranquil flow of the river, is about as good as it gets. Except if you are one of those who need to explore. Put up camp for a few days in one place on the Okavango and drive in a different direction every day. Visit Popa Falls, the Buffalo Core Area and Mahango Game Park, a San village and a craft outlet. Camp on the Kwando and visit Mudumu and Mamili, Mashi Craft Centre at Kongola and the Traditional Village at Sijwa. The same applies to camping on the Zambezi and Chobe. So much to see and do and enough time for all of it.
And so the days go by. When you cross the checkpoint at Divundu going back south again, and you do not have that satisfied feeling of having made a giant leap in your knowledge of birds, trees, animal behaviour, having read a few books and taken thousands of photographs to keep you busy sorting for weeks… turn back. The holiday need not be over. TNN
Even if you think you know everything there is to know about birds and their habits, skippers and guides may surprise you with more interesting facts.
Living in the land of sand and freedom
NamibRand will always hold a piece of our hearts, for the space it was to us all, for the beauty and adventure, and for what it meant to us as a family and as individuals.
Here we go again. Another move. If you have been reading along from the start of our journey, you will know we should be pros at this. I am typing this from a dusty, near-empty house, which has been our home for almost six years. These walls have held us, they have been a place of safety, healing and deep growth. The only home our daughter remembers and the home in which our son had his first birthday party ever. The space that has expanded to hold the love and laughter we have experienced.
NamibRand has been the most amazing experience, and the most magical place that we have had the privilege of living and growing in. While this move is big, it isn’t very far – this too is on brand for us. We seem to be like homing pigeons, with the Nubib mountain range being our beacon. Our numbers are two adults, two smaller humans, one ridgeback, four chickens, two tortoises and three mice. Needless to say, our belongings seem to have doubled – we now own our own couch and cupboards. We have moved up in the world! We are about five bakkie loads in, with one full trailer load done and at least another of each pending.
Yesterday I was telling the kids how long we have lived here and how amazing this chapter of our lives was. I am grateful that they will both have reasonable memories of this time. Of course it was a hot day – it is January and we should be having consistently high temperatures. However, the clouds have been building and the weather app has been giving us relatively high chances of rain.
The kids were playing outside after lunch time. I had just sent them out, but they came screaming back into the house: “Tornado. There’s a tornado. It’s coming!” Mildly irritated by both the heat and other things, I did not pay much attention. Murray went to look and I heard him say, “Get back in the house now.” He is, as you may know by now, a really calm and measured guy and, even here, he was still pretty composed. As we all got in the house, the noise levels rose – this dust devil had picked up speed and strength and we were simply in its way. Unaware of this parting gift the NamibRand was giving us, I carried on prepping dinner until the noise was deafening and the house was dark. We heard what sounded like metal twisting and wood splintering above the roar of wind and sand hitting the house. Murray, bless him and his calm demeanour, was watching from the door as a section of the roof from the guesthouse landed on the lawn. The roof of the guesthouse was bent open, allowing the dust and the rain direct access to the dining room. What I haven’t yet told you is that the new area wardens are already staying there for the handover period. As the dust was blowing and the wind was howling, the rain started. Because of the intensity of the wind, the rain came at an angle – in fact, it went completely sideways. The kids and the dog were
banished indoors, forced to watch from a distance and the boring safety of our bedroom.
Each raindrop felt like needles being vaulted into our skins. At this stage Murray was on the roof trying to bend it into some shape that would prevent the guesthouse from being soaked, while the lightning and wind raged on around us. After some repairs and a regroup, we decided to chase some rain! We headed out across Keerweder Pan and back via the borrow pits. There was already water flowing in from up the road.
Despite the chaos and the mild stress of the destruction, it was an exhilarating experience. A reminder of the excitement we have seen and the very varied events we have been privileged to witness over the years. It was also a good reminder of the power of nature and its sheer force.
NamibRand will always hold a piece of our hearts, for the space it was to us all, for the beauty and adventure, and for what it meant to us as a family and as individuals. I will always remember the first day we arrived – a diesel truck had spilled on the main road and we needed to assist. A slightly violent, but all’s-well ending therefore seemed to be a fitting last hurrah for us. While we are sad to say our goodbyes here, we are deeply excited for our next adventure. Seeing where it goes and how it will forge ahead will keep us on our toes and keep me writing these stories! TNN
Lee Tindall was born in Namibia. With her parents, who were employed by the Ministry of Environment and Tourism, she lived in some of the remotest, most beautiful protected parts of the country. It was there where her love and enthusiasm for nature developed, a passion that she keeps kindled to this day.
In April 2016 Lee and her husband Murray – along with their two small children, beloved golden retriever Rocco, ferocious cat Yzer and several goldfish originally named Goldie 1, Goldie 2 and Fred – moved to the NamibRand Nature Reserve, where Lee was the Research and Environment Warden, based at Keerweder. She is also the coordinator and secretary for the Greater Sossusvlei Namib Landscape, a not for gain association focused on large landscape conservation and upliftment. Lee and her family are now moving on to their next adventure.
Follow her series 'Living Wild' in the upcoming issues of Travel News Namibia
Namibia is a country blessed with an enormous array of dramatically different yet equally enticing destinations to discover. It is no surprise then that the task of choosing destinations for your visit can be a daunting one. The country itself is large and distances between sights and places are vast, often making it impossible to fit everything on your wishlist into a single visit, especially if you want to spend enough time at each place to truly absorb the majesty and wonder of it all. Namibia is great for self-drive adventures, and for those who have the time this can be a rewarding experience. But if you truly want to make the most out of your vacation, fly-in safaris are the most effective, and enticing, mode of travel. From the views to the ease with which you can reach far-flung and remote places, seeing Namibia by air is an other-worldly experience. Enter FlyNamibia Safaris.
With FlyNamibia Safaris visitors to Namibia will reach the country’s top tourist destinations effortlessly and have more time to enjoy what truly matters. Departing from Eros Airport in Windhoek, the daily circuit includes flights to Sossusvlei, Swakopmund and Etosha National Park - all of them a quick and comfortable journey from the capital.
FlyNamibia's current route offers flights between Cape Town International and Hosea Kutako International Airport and domestic flights to and from Ondangwa, Rundu and Katima Mulilo. The FlyNamibia Safaris route has been set up to not only connect passengers to these flights, but also to in- and outbound international flights. This means flying directly to your destination as you land in Windhoek or squeezing in one more night at your lodge, before flying back home the next day.
With easy access to the country’s top destinations, and therefore by default to Namibia’s most popular lodges, FlyNamibia Safaris will make your journey through this enigmatic land an unforgettable experience, with ultimate convenience, because time is the most valuable commodity we’ve got.
TNNStarting from 13 April 2022. Flights can be booked through all major travel agencies, or directly via FlyNamibia’s 24/7 contact centre at +264 83 339 0011. Customers can also visit www.flynamibia.com.na for online bookings.
FlyNamibia Safari offers an additional stop via Twyfelfontein on the flight from Swakopmund to Etosha. There is a minimum requirement of two passengers either to or from Twyfelfontein to book this.
Twyfelfontein (meaning doubtful fountain), is a massive, open-air art gallery that is of great interest to international rock-art connoisseurs. The 2,000-plus rock engravings, estimated to be 6,000 years old, represent one of Africa’s largest and most noteworthy concentrations of rock art.
Swakopmund is much-loved by Namibians as a welcome respite from the heat in the interior. It is also popular among visitors because of its old-world charm and relaxed atmosphere. Founded in 1892 during German colonial rule, it served as the territory’s main harbour for several years. Today this quaint town between the desert and the sea is enhanced by lush green lawns, elegant palm trees and carefully tended public gardens. It has a wide choice of hotels, guesthouses and restaurants, and several coffee shops selling traditional German cakes and pastries. The coast with its desert hinterland offers many options, both for adventure and for relaxation.
Many visitors to Namibia say that no part of the desert is visually more dramatic than Sossusvlei with its monumentally high dunes. These gigantic star-shaped mountains of sand – one of the largest was measured from the base as 325 metres high – are a sought-after topic for artists and photographers. The warm tints of the sand contrast vividly with the dazzling white surfaces of the large deflationary clay pans at their bases. One of these, referred to as Dead Pan, is a large ghostly expanse of dried white clay, punctuated by skeletons of ancient camel-thorn trees, carbon-dated as being between 500 and 600 years old. Sossusvlei’s mountainous dunes lie at the end of an erosional trough formed by the Tsauchab River. They are shaped by strong multi-directional winds, primarily the southwester, and have three to five sinuous crests, which meet at the highest point to give them their characteristic star shapes.
Once a large inland lake fed by the early Kunene River and rivers from the north, it began drying up about 3 million years ago when the Kunene was diverted to the Indian Ocean. A series of waterholes along the southern edge of the pan guarantee rewarding and often spectacular game viewing. In good rain years the pan fills with water draining southwards from Angola via a delta-like system of shallow rivers and oshanas, drying out in the winter to become an austere expanse of white cracked mud, shimmering with mirages and upwardspiralling dust devils.
Windhoek is often described as a city with a ‘continental’ atmosphere. This can be ascribed to its architecture – historical buildings dating back to German colonial rule – as well as to its cuisine, culture, dress codes and educational institutions. At the same time Windhoek has the colour, sounds and pace of a modern African city. Pavement displays of African drums and woodcarvings from the north contrast with elegant shops offering sophisticated Swakara garments and Namibian gemstones set in individually designed jewellery. While some shops display clothing, silver and glassware imported from Europe, others stock casual and colourful garments from West Africa.
ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK
NAMIBNAUKLUFT PARK
Etosha
Twyfelfontein Windhoek Swakopmund
Sossusvlei
Across the vast landscapes of central, northern and northeastern Namibia, the plight of the pangolin, an inconspicuous creature, continues. This small mammal plays a major role in the bushland ecosystems of sub-saharan Africa and, as the most trafficked mammal in the world, lives under an ever-present dark cloud of threat. Enter Namibia’s newest concerted effort trained directly at the preservation of this important species - the Namibian Pangolin Working Group.
The Namibian Pangolin Working Group (NPWG) was established in April 2020 as a collaborative effort between the Namibian government and non-governmental partners in response to the increasing threats faced by pangolins (Temminck’s ground pangolin, Smutsia temminckii) in Namibia. The NPWG is chaired by Kenneth Uiseb of the Ministry of Environment, Forestry, and Tourism (MEFT) and the secretariat is Kelsey Prediger. Member organisations include stakeholders of many backgrounds including MEFT, Biodiversity Research Centre of Namibia University of Science and Technology (BRC-NUST), Namibian Chamber of Environment (NCE), Namibia Animal Rehabilitation Research and Education Centre (NARREC), Rooikat Trust, and the Pangolin Conservation and Research Foundation (PCRF). More information about supporting the NPWG, its members and their work can be found at n-c-e.org/namibian-pangolin-working-group
In 2021, the NPWG made big strides towards improving the conservation of pangolins in Namibia. The NPWG drafted a National Pangolin Conservation Management Plan and Action Logframe for 2021 to 2026. Additionally, a handbook was developed for first responders, including MEFT and law enforcement officers, with guidelines for the handling of confiscated pangolins and a First Responders Manual developed by NARREC.
The NPWG has provided resources and training for first responders in the regions most affected by illegal wildlife trade. These regions have received specially designed holding boxes to transport confiscated pangolins safely to veterinarians, rehabilitation centres and release sites. A training curriculum was developed and materials were distributed during training workshops which reached over 100 front-line officers.
A network of veterinary clinics across six regions has been established to provide health assessments and emergency care for live confiscated pangolins. All clinics were offered a training seminar in emergency first response by a specialist veterinarian with extensive experience in the care of pangolins. Since the training, nearly all live confiscated pangolins have gone for a health assessment. Additionally, a veterinary emergency fund has been set up with an initial amount of N$40,000 contributed by the Namibian Chamber of Environment (NCE) and Rooikat Trust.
A distribution map was created from a sightings survey (which is still open for reporting any pangolin sightings), as well as game count and event book records from national parks and conservancies. Through collaboration, five live confiscated pangolins have been tagged for post-release monitoring through the Pangolin Conservation and Research Project (PCRP). A programme on priority research needs has been
developed, and a number of research initiatives have started, including on the survival of rehabilitated animals, food and feeding preferences and a new project on the impact of electric fences on pangolins and other vulnerable species.
Posters have been created, including on the reward scheme for reporting illegal pangolin trade and on pangolin biology and ecology. A comic has been developed for children in Namibia and will be distributed to local schools. Members of the NPWG regularly issue media releases, radio interviews, popular articles and public talks to help educate and spread awareness.
The Pangolin Conservation and Research Foundation (PCRF) was founded in 2021 as a section 21 not-for-profit organisation to fill the gap in conservation efforts for pangolins. Their aim is to ensure a sustainable future for pangolins through conservation, research, collaboration, education and
awareness, community engagement and local empowerment. Conservation research projects focus on subjects which help guide protocols and conservation management planning, including research of resident pangolins and post-release monitoring of trafficked-released individuals for the Pangolin Conservation and Research Project (PCRP). The PCRF is developing children’s educational material to help raise awareness and improve education on the conservation of pangolins. Additionally, they employ pangolin rangers within communities across the country to protect pangolins while supporting their community. Local students have the opportunity to work on pangolinfocused projects to empower them for a future in pangolin conservation.
There has been minimal research completed within Namibia. For this reason, the PCRP aims to study all details of ecology and genetics for the Temminck’s ground pangolin in Namibia. The overall goal of this project is to understand the home range sizes, activity patterns, population dynamics, prey preference, and overall ecology of pangolins in priority habitat sites and to gather further information about their behaviour and survival strategies. Additionally, the project conducts post-release monitoring for trafficked-released pangolins in order to shed light on the survival rates and reintegration of those rescued from the illegal wildlife trade. Genetic data will be utilised to determine the origin of seized pangolins and better understand their genetics. The end goal of collecting this data is to create biological baseline knowledge which can be applied to a national action plan and protocols or guidelines for ground pangolins and utilised across their range. Another very important objective is to increase awareness of the vulnerable status of southern Africa’s only pangolin species.
In their first year they tagged five traffickedreleased pangolins for post-release monitoring and three resident pangolins for baseline ecological research. Learning more about the species across their habitat is essential for conservation planning. The two most recent releases have demonstrated positive settling behaviour and their home ranges are comparable to that of resident pangolin ranges. TNN
SPREAD AWARENESS!
Share what you have learned with others to raise awareness on why it is important to protect pangolins. If you see a pangolin, appreciate its presence but please leave it to be free and safe in its home environment. Do not tell others about the location where you found it for its own protection.
REPORT SUSPICIOUS ACTIVITY TO THE HOTLINE: 55555
Suspicious activity includes:
• Killing or capture of pangolins
• Keeping pangolins in captivity
• Possessing pangolin and/or pangolin parts
• Trade in pangolins (dead or alive) and/or pangolin parts
• People asking about pangolins or offering pangolins or pangolin parts for sale.
Imagine travelling the lengths of this planet, enduring long layovers, leg cramps and perhaps a chair-kicking child – all worth it for that highly anticipated moment when the wheels of a steel bird touch the tarmac and you are on African soil. A sigh of relief. Your holiday has just begun and you are undoubtedly off to the far corners of Namibia in search of rugged landscapes, natural wonders and untamed wildlife.
Text Charene LabuschagneYou are sure to find breathtaking scenery, mountain ranges, valleys, bushveld and desert. But where are all the untamed animals National Geographic told you about? In this scenario, they are in captivity posing for selfies.
There are roughly 16 threatened or endangered mammal species found in Namibia. This list includes both black and white rhino, African elephant and lion, giraffe, as well as leopard and cheetah. We can agree that these few mammals are quintessential to the safari experience and sighting at least one of them in their natural habitat is on almost everyone’s bucket list.
Due to their endangered nature, many of these animals are in captivity. In the case of orphaned rhino calves, many of whom lost their life givers to poaching, their captivity is (or should be) for the purpose of raising and rehabilitation. Many mature rhinos are also in captivity and kept under close surveillance to help protect them against poaching. Cheetah and leopard, on the other hand, are often captured wild and relocated to captivity for posing threats to the local livestock farming industry. Instead of hunting the animals, they are sent to wildlife reserves. Additionally, many wild cats are rescued from the exotic pet trade and given a home in sanctuaries. Cheetahs have a hard time breeding in the wild, causing their population to plummet, and because it is highly illegal to breed them in captivity, the species has reached a sort of genetic bottleneck as more enter nature reserves.
In isolated cases, animals in captivity require human interaction. Rhino calves, for instance, need to be fed and nurtured by humans in order to survive the lack of their mother’s milk. Mature rhino often have rangers by their side, or nearby, armed and prepared to defend the animal in a poaching situation. Some might require medical attention, justifying otherwise unnatural human interaction.
There are however, no other reasons for wild captive animals to be intentionally tamed. They definitely should not be habituated when their captivity is under the condition they be rehabilitated and released. As you can imagine, it is merely impossible to authentically reintroduce wild animals to their free roaming, natural state when they have become accustomed to human interaction. Wildlife rehabilitation means aiding injured, orphaned, displaced or distressed animals to survive when they are released back into their native habitats. Providing medical care, arranging suitable release sites and humanely resolving human-wildlife conflicts is the backbone of rehabilitation efforts. Part of this effort is to undo the processes that make the animal encounterable and reinstalling a fear for humans in order for it to be successfully and safely released.
In the last two years (read pandemic), the tourism industry in Namibia and the world at large have been clutching at straws to rehabilitate a sector that is the bread and butter of so many households and individuals. We have had the opportunity to reevaluate the sustainability of our tourism model and make necessary changes to the way we operate. Unfortunately, some organisations have resorted to offering unique animal encounters in an attempt to sustain the large amounts of food the animals consume and roaming space they require, subsequent to keeping up with our times of Instagram-worthy experiences.
Proximity-based activities currently offered in Namibia include physically interacting with rhinos, like sitting on their backs. Petting or walking with wild cats is also common, hand feeding giraffes is gaining popularity, and images of people hugging baboons frequently feature on social media. While elephant encounters such as riding and bathing are not on our roster just yet, the trend suggests it is the next species to fall victim to such activities. These activities require wild animals to become accustomed to human interaction, and their availability for tourists and locals alike can only be defined as unethical wildlife tourism.
Namibia’s conservation efforts have fostered the founding of game reserves in order to safeguard our abundant wildlife. It is under particular circumstances that wild animals are kept captive. Custodians of Namibian conservation strive to maintain the free-roaming nature of our fauna. The very last thing we want for our tourism and wildlife industry is to morph into a zoo, the likes of which is known to sedate, constrain and inhumanely handle animals for photo opportunities.
Not all sanctuaries are created equal. There are accreditation organisations like the Global Federation of Animal Sanctuaries (GFAS) that evaluate the practices and operations of animal rescue centres with strict protocol on environment, activities and handling. Unfortunately their evaluation and greenlighting has yet to reach Namibia, making it everyone’s individual responsibility to research and question the operations of reserves and sanctuaries.
Often, close encounters are marketed in the interest of conservation education. The sanctuary would sell the experience of engaging and taking photos with endangered captive animals, and the funds raised are said to sustain their maintenance and research. When an individual snaps a shot of a captive wild animal and shares it on social media, there is an opportunity to educate people on the conditions of their captivity, their conservation status and the valuable research conducted by the sanctuary. While the availability of these
When it comes to conserving wildlife and the environment, it’s more important to be outspoken than unspoken.
- Paul Oxton
encounters makes it possible to keep endangered animals in safer environments, this message rarely comes across to the masses in a selfie snapped in isolation and taken out of context. The comment section is flooded with messages of envy, attraction and the word ‘cute’ and the experience is chased by a whole slew of people craving a photo opportunity. The chances of sharing valuable information are negligible.
You may not consider yourself an influencer, but even a handful of followers, when exposed to an image of riding a rhino or walking a cheetah, are directly influenced. Close contact is made desirable and safety is assumed. Whether you have 40 or 40 thousand followers, they see your experience and may venture to replicate it without the education and resources to know any better. Pictures of people interacting with endangered animals are not a prerequisite to engaging individuals in wildlife education. On the contrary: images of contact-based encounters, no matter how well intentioned, promote unethical wildlife tourism.
Regardless of how docile a wild animal appears, their instincts are innate and accidents do happen. Not if, but when a wild animal becomes distressed from human interaction and harms someone challenging their boundaries, the animal bears the brunt and may be euthanized for threatening the human’s life. In 2016, one day after his 17th birthday, the male silverback gorilla Harambe was shot and killed at the Cincinnati Zoo after a three-year-old climbed into the animal’s enclosure.
The images we share on social media have a direct impact on the way our audiences perceive wildlife, their suitability for close human interaction as well as their conservation status. In a survey conducted in 2018, researchers asked members of the general public to view four images of wild cats in different settings and respond on the desirability of interacting with the animal, its conservation status and its suitability as a pet. When shown an image of a wild cat being petted by a human, respondents were more than twice as likely to perceive the animal as fit to be photographed with tourists, compared to being shown an image of a wild cat in its natural habitat.
Often when people posting images of unethical wildlife tourism are confronted, they defend their post by claiming the interaction was consensual, that the animal was not visibly
distressed and that they may have willingly approached the person in question. That is a condition of their captivity, however, and completely unnatural. If you feed a wild animal out of the palm of your hand often enough, they are sure to approach in the future because in their mind ‘human equals food’. This is termed baiting, and it is counterintuitive to a wild animal’s rehabilitation. To the untrained eye, behaviour of this nature may come across as harmless, yet it is never in the interest of the animal. Not only do these activities perpetuate ideas of animals as performing spectacles, but subsequently bolster consumptive tourism regardless of ecotourism ideals. It harms their eligibility of ever being released and poses wild animals as catalysts of their own exploitation.
The two- and three-toed sloths of South America are captured by locals to pose for photos with tourists. Within a tour group, the animal is passed around and selfies are snapped day in and day out. When the sun sets and the tourists leave, the sloth is tied to a tree with rope, only for it to be untied and manhandled when the next group of visitors arrive. It is a matter of fact that the mere approach of humans as well as handling causes a significant rise in sloths’ blood pressure. These animals are favoured for their relaxed nature and face marking resembling a smile, which is often mistaken for comfort around us humans. The truth is, regardless of the visual cues given to us like approaching for food or staying around while we engage, we cannot know for certain that our presence is comforting to wild animals. It is best to respect their wild nature and avoid putting captive animals in stressful situations for a personal popularity contest and a couple of likes.
Fortunately, the surge in unethical wildlife tourism in Namibia is still reversible. Only a handful of locations currently offer proximity-based encounters, yet it is paramount to our collective conservation efforts that these activities be nipped in the bud, sooner rather than later. Organisations that sell these experiences might continue to do so, but as a travelling guest or adventure-hungry local you have the opportunity to keep them accountable. Rather than investing in unethical practices like photo opportunities or hand feeding, try looking into where you can donate to the research and development done by ethical wildlife trusts and foundations. An organisation’s website as well as their social media platforms will give you insight into whether their activity offering is ethical or not. Any
mention of interacting with captive wild animals should send off alarm bells. Additionally, have a look at the images they are tagged in. The sanctuary may not post selfies with their animals, but guests and volunteers who took part in unethical activities might tag the organisation’s profile.
During game drives and nature walks you can insist that a safe distance is kept from wild animals. Respected guides follow strict protocol when it comes to animal encounters, like rhino sightings. The guide will constantly evaluate the demeanour of the animal during an encounter and establish a window of time in which photos can be taken from a distance. As soon as the guide notices that the animal is disturbed by human presence the sighting and photo opportunity is concluded. No distance encounter with a free-roaming animal should last longer than 30 minutes. Not all guides follow these rules and might bargain on a tip for getting guests closer to a wild animal. If your guide veers off the track to chase a wild animal, or keeps you or the vehicle in proximity to an animal for an extended period of time, it is completely within your right to demand consideration for the landscape and free-roaming wildlife. You might be tempted to let it slide at the expense of a great photo or the desires of your tour group. Rest assured that speaking up in these compromising situations aids Namibia’s conservation efforts in tangible ways. The more guests insist on ethical practices, the less organisations will risk safety and conservation in the name of wildlife tourism.
There are good selfies, and then there are bad selfies. Researchers at World Animal Protection discovered a 292% increase in the number of wildlife selfies posted on Instagram between 2014 and 2017. When analysing the photos, 40% showed people ‘hugging, holding or inappropriately interacting’ with a wild animal. These are ‘bad selfies’. Although there is an incredibly blurry line between the good and the bad, better selfies feature no contact between the animal and human. In better selfies the animal is not
restrained or held captive, they are in their natural habitat, and a safe distance is maintained.
Volunteers, vets and handlers have unique interactions with wild animals in their line of work. And while wildlife reserves depend on the donations from volunteers and respectable work of vets and handlers, it is in the best interest of conservation that these interactions are not abused for photo opportunities. Volunteers who offer their time and money to learn about rehabilitation and conservation in Namibia are vital to the maintenance of sanctuaries. It becomes a problem when their experience tending to orphaned and injured animals destined for rehabilitation is shared on social media, sending mixed messages of what people can expect and demand from animal encounters. As for vets who do valuable work on wild animals, photography is a great tool for documenting these procedures. There is an opportunity to educate people if they do wish to share it on social media. However, the captions of images on Instagram in particular are rarely read, so the very image itself must say everything it needs to. It has become far too simple to re-share a picture and have messages of conservation get lost in the bewilderment of an exotic encounter.
It comes as no surprise that in our increasingly digital age, the souvenirs we bring back from travels are photos – more than anything else. And what a wonderful souvenir it is to entice our friends, family and followers to invest in ethical wildlife tourism in Namibia. Perhaps the most important question to ask ourselves is why we need to feature in a photo with wild animals for it to be Instagram-worthy. What lengths are we willing to go to in order to tick sighting these threatened and endangered animals off our bucket list?
Namibia’s abundant wildlife in their natural habitat is already as picture perfect as it can get, so it is time we sacrifice the aesthetics, hold each other accountable and safeguard the free-roaming wildlife population for generations to come. Now THAT is Instagram-worthy! TNN
In their natural habitat, a safe distance is maintained from wildlife for an appropriate photograph:
Saddle up as we embark on our long-term and large-scale Etosha Carnivore Programme, also known as Carnivores in the GEL!
Lion
Cheetah
Spotted hyena
Black-backed jackal
Lion
Honey badger
Le Roux van Schalkwyk
Liza de Klerk
Liza de Klerk
Le Roux van Schalkwyk
Toni Hart
The Greater Etosha Landscape (GEL) is host to a wide diversity of carnivores, with an almost complete guild of large carnivores (only the African wild dog is missing). This landscape also exemplifies the situation faced by many protected areas in the world: a national park surrounded by a mosaic of different land-use types. Here it is communal land to the north and west and private freehold farmland to the south and east. Carnivore populations are mostly declining throughout the world, especially large species, and given their importance to ecosystems, a better understanding of the drivers of their distribution and abundance is crucial to their conservation.
Etosha National Park has a long history of research with a dedicated research centre, the Etosha Ecological Institute (EEI), located at Okaukuejo since 1967. In partnership with the EEI, the Ongava Research Centre conducted a literature review and search for any form of output from research conducted on carnivores within a buffer of 50 km of Etosha. This included scanning online databases, but also spending several days in dusty archive rooms at the EEI.
We found that carnivore research started in the 1910s and has steadily increased until the 1980s, with most of the research conducted by government employees. Since the 1990s, after independence, the research output somewhat decreased and was mainly conducted by external researchers. The vast majority of research was conducted within the boundaries of Etosha and focused on ecological questions rather than being applied. Furthermore, most of the research targeted either large and charismatic (lions, spotted hyenas and cheetahs) or abundant and conspicuous (black-backed jackal) species. Finally, the distribution of research in terms of both topics and species of interest was uneven. For instance, we know quite a lot about lions and cheetahs, but almost nothing about servals and honey badgers. Additionally, while certain topics were studied in many species (e.g. distribution or population), far less is known about other topics (e.g. behaviour, reproduction and interaction).
Our synthesis highlights the important role played by political decisions in research direction and output, which has
probably caused the decrease in government-led carnivore research in the 1990s. It further shows that we have very uneven knowledge across species and topics, and while some are well studied, we identified many gaps needing to be filled by further research.
Saddle up as we embark on our long-term and large-scale Etosha Carnivore Programme, also known as Carnivores in the GEL!
The results of this study are published in the Namibian Journal of Environment and freely available online at www.nje.org.na
Ongava Research Centre (ORC) is an institution built by private investment in 2005 and has the independence and potential to answer major questions and understand processes fundamental to the functioning of the natural environment.
The three main purposes of ORC are:
1. To explore, discover and understand important features of the natural world.
2. To support the management of conservation areas, in particular the Ongava Game Reserve, the Rhino Belt and Etosha National Park.
3. To support the development of young people with potential to be dedicated scientists and conservationists.
ORC has already built an impressive collection of data, which it continues to expand. For instance, over 7 million camera trap images of Ongava wildlife have been tagged with keywords to facilitate analyses. It continues to assemble a collection of bioindicator samples of natural materials and organisms to help understand processes and consequences of environmental change.
The ORC campus features offices and laboratories, plus accommodation for resident researchers, associates, interns and students. A state-of-the-art visitor centre showcases the excellent work in conservation and research done by ORC. TNN
For more information, visit www.orc.eco
Early one morning at the end of November 2021 at the Chudop waterhole in Etosha National Park, a black-backed jackal bitch appears. Hundreds of Cape Turtle Doves and a few Laughing Doves, now called Palm Doves, come to drink at the water’s edge. In the usual jackal trot the female moves around the waterhole watching the thirsty doves while keeping a distance of two to four metres from the water. The moment a dove starts to drink, with its back turned towards the prowling jackal, the small predator lowers its head and body and tries to sneak up close to the dove. Most potential victims are too wary or warned by nearby doves taking off. Several attacks end with a splash of water and feathers in the mouth while the prey gets away with a big fright and sometimes the loss of a few feathers.
8:25 – A few minutes later the female sneaks up from behind on an unsuspecting dove quenching her thirst, while her mate, the male jackal, looks on.
8:15 – A giraffe has arrived to quench her thirst and while she is mirrored in the water, the black-backed jackal unsuccessfully attempts to catch a Little Grebe which came close to the outer edge of the waterhole.
Again and again the jackal trots back and forth on the western side of the Chudop waterhole or circles the muddy water. No opportunity is missed but success fails to materialise. She even tries to catch a Little Grebe when it comes close enough to the waterhole’s edge, but the small water bird dives to safety.
Then another try and the next moment an unfortunate dove is caught in a splash. A quick bite and the hapless bird is dead. The jackal quickly comes ashore, bites off the long primary and secondary feathers, pulls off a few mouthfuls of other feathers and swallows the whole dove. Her mate comes closer but feathers are all that is left for him. He sniffs around, urinates on the feathers and moves off.
It is amazing that he does not join the hunt or has adopted the hunting technique of his partner. He watches her from closeby but never interferes.
One dove does not seem to be enough of a meal and the jackal bitch continues with her unique hunting technique. The arrival of giraffe and black-faced impala at the waterhole does not stop her in her efforts but seems to help her closer to her unsuspecting targets.
A few days later the same black-backed jackal is on the prowl again, circling Chudop waterhole. Again she nearly catches a Cape Turtle Dove but is left with a mouthful of feathers after a splash in the water, while dust settles on the dry bank. Moving around the waterhole she suddenly spots a lone Helmeted
Guineafowl between the many doves drinking there. Without hesitation the jackal charges the big bird at full speed. Just in time the Guineafowl manages to get airborne together with countless doves. The jackal watches the Guineafowl trying to land on the reeds in the middle of the waterhole. But at more than a kilogram the bird is too heavy and lands on the opposite side of the waterhole.
The jackal immediately rushes over and jumps into the air to get hold of the Guineafowl on its next take-off. The bird flies away from the waterhole with the jackal chasing after it at full speed. After a short flapping flight the bird glides and intends to land. When it realises that the jackal is chasing after it, the bird flaps its wings again, glides, lands and starts running. One sharp turn, then the hunt is over and the jackal has a big meal for the day.
It seemed that this jackal had not hunted a Helmeted Guineafowl for the first time, and it seemed to know that these birds do not like to fly and are not able to fly for more than a short distance. This is why the jackal chased the bird at full speed over two to three hundred metres and was successful.
Black-backed jackals are found all over Namibia except for the far north-eastern parts. Jackals feed on anything from birds, small mammals, reptiles, insects to wild fruit and carrion. Farmers, especially small-stock farmers, kill jackals wherever they get hold of them, because some jackals have learnt, or are forced, to take lambs and sheep. It should be noted, however, that black-backed jackals do play a very important ecological role by controlling pests like mice and termites, cleaning up all kinds of carcasses, catching sick, injured and weak animals, and pairs who bond for life keep their kind at bay. TNN
A few days later an attempt at 7:19 seems to be crowned with success, but the female only manages to grab a mouthful of feathers from the back of the Cape Turtle Dove and while the dust still hovers on the dry bank and the water splashes around the jackal, the victim escapes unhurt, with just a loss of feathers.Several attacks end with a splash of water and feathers in the mouth while the prey gets away with a big fright and sometimes the loss of a few feathers.
Competitors lining up for a chance to break a new record.
It takes nerves of steel to race at speeds of over 90 km/h down a narrow canal.
Björn Dunkerbeck on a practice run in Shearwater Bay.
It is a typical November day in Lüderitz. The wind is howling. The type of wind where on the B4 you have to dodge the tiny dunes blown onto the tarmac, or when you dare to get out of your vehicle, better be sure to have a good grip on the door handle. Needless to say, in this weather any sane person stays safely indoors and only ventures outside if it is really necessary. Yet, for a handful of speed windsurfers from around the world, gathered just south of the town at Second Lagoon, these conditions are perfect. High winds have helped to break the 50 knot (92.6 km/h) barrier and present the potential to break the elusive record of 100 km/h or just under 54 knots.
The Lüderitz Speed Challenge is an annual speed sailing event, held since 2007 in the harbour town. Since its inception, 146 national and 20 world speed sailing records have been set. Last year's event took place from 18 October to 28 November and, as always, attracted the biggest names in the sport. Participants included Erik Beale, the first person to break 40 knots, as well as national record-holders Farrell O’Shea (UK), Oisìn van Gelderen (Ireland), Hans Kreisel (Netherlands), Gunnar Asmussen (Germany) and Roger Ornvang (Sweden, windsurf and kiteboarding). One man, however, the DanishDutch legend of the sport, Björn Dunkerbeck, was out to add another accolade to an already illustrious career.
Dunkerbeck has been speed sailing since 1987 and broke his first open ocean windsurf record in 1992 with a run at 43.30 knots over 500 metres. With 42 World Championship titles under his belt across different formats of the sport, he is the most successful athlete the sport has ever seen. Before the event, he was ranked fourth with a speed of 51.09 knots (94.6 km/h) but had his sights firmly on the 2015 world record of Antoine Albeau of 53.27 knots (98.66 km/h) over 500 metres. He was bent not just on improving that record, but breaking the 100 km/h barrier –an elusive speed which competitors in the sport have slowly been edging closer to over the past years. The fastest that Dunkerbeck had gone up to that point was 53.50 knots (99.08 km/h) for two seconds.
The man-made canal in which the event takes place is essential for the success or failure of riders to better their speeds or even break a world or national record. According to the event organiser, Raeffello Gardelli, improving the canal for better speeds is a continuous learning process. Gardelli, who has been arranging the speed challenge since 2017, says improvements include changing angles of the canal, finding ways to get the perfect profile of the water and putting hessian bags on the right side of the canal for riders to use as guideline to follow down the 500 metre run. The timing system
has also changed a lot since 2017. Laser gates and radio systems are now used whereas the previous system required some 800 metres of cable for the two speed cameras.
Chasing his lifelong goal of 100 km/h, Dunkerbeck follows the same routine on each competition day. As soon as the wind picks up, he sets off to Shearwater Bay, behind Dias Point, for some practice runs before moving to Second Lagoon around 14:00 when wind speeds reach sufficient velocity. During the 2021 event, the first few weeks were characterised by relatively low wind speeds, but by 18 November conditions were perfect for Dunkerbeck to break the speed barrier: 103.67 km/h over a two-second time gap as well as holding an average speed of 101 km/h over a 100 metre stretch of water. A momentous achievement and a dream come true. Although still not beating Albeau’s world record of an average speed of 53.27 knots (98.66 km/h) over 500 metres, it means it will only be a matter of time.
The Lüderitz Speed Challenge attracts roughly 35 competitors every year. Only 15 participants are allowed on the canal per day. The daily limit is intended to avoid overcrowding of the canal and gives each rider enough time to do multiple runs. Riders usually book in for a three week period.
The 2021 event saw five of the top competitors delivering runs of an average speed of over 51 knots (94.45 km/h) over 500 metres while there were two maximum speeds exceeding 100 km/h: Dunkerbeck’s 103.67 km/h, followed by 102.34 km/h achieved by Andy Laufer of Germany.
“It’s not always about breaking a world record. It’s also about working on yourself, on how you surf and how you can improve yourself. Just going down the channel is a fantastic feeling. It’s scary somehow. You have to overcome it, you don't have to overdo it, you just need to take it step by step,” says Gardelli.
The Lüderitz Speed Challenge is the premiere speed record chase for wind and kite surfers, endorsed by the World Sailing Speed Record Council. Lüderitz Nest Hotel is the event’s longest running sponsor and official partner hotel. TNN
Rara Avis is a Latin phrase for ‘rare bird’. It is also used to refer to an unusual, or exceptional person or thing.
Paul van Schalkwyk was both.
The late Paul van Schalkwyk’s body of work, published by his wife Rieth in his honour, is a phenomenon. The collection of photographs feature familiar Namibian destinations such as the Namib Desert, Etosha National Park, the Messum Crater and the Skeleton Coast of Namibia from an aerial perspective, completely reinventing the way that these popular photographic subjects are generally viewed and perceived.
These images truly reflect the way that the harsh contrasts, the extraordinary colours and rich textures of the landscapes make you feel. Viewing them, you become the bird too.
Paul’s life abruptly ended when his plane crashed in Etosha in 2014. He was highly regarded as a legendary photographer and filmmaker in Namibia. He received more than 50 awards, both locally and internationally, for his work as photographer, cinematographer, director and writer. His wildlife films were broadcasted on National Geographic, Discovery Channel, Animal Planet and other television channels around the globe and his photographs were published in numerous local and international magazines. His most profound passion though, was to fly and take photographs from the sky.
In seeing how he saw, you instinctively sense the irony, the contrast, the beauty, the melancholy, the weight and the wonder of the world.
“Photography as an art is not about taking pictures”, Paul used to say. “It is not a monologue. To capture true beauty you have to allow enough time for yourself to know your subject and for your subject to know you. It is always a dialogue.
You have to become part of the process and the process must become part of you. It is like a meditation – you have to transcend before you can see.”
Paul’s relentless pursuit of the ultimate photograph is epic and it ultimately cost him his life. But it also was his life. TNN
Enter your ultimate Namibian photograph into our competition and stand a chance to win incredible prizes!
Three Categories:
WILDLIFE
Prize: 2 Nights for 2 all inclusive at Ongava Lodge
LANDSCAPES
Prize: 2 Nights for 2 (Dinner, Bed and Breakfast) at any Ondili Lodges & Activities establishment
PEOPLE & CULTURE
Prize: Return flight for two on any FlyNamibia route
How to enter:
Submit your high resolution image (or images) to content@venture.com.na. Submission must include your name, contact details, the category you are submitting to and a short description of the image. Images must be originals and you must hold the copyright thereto.
Terms and Conditions apply. See www.travelnewsnamibia.com for more information.
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In Damaraland you don’t measure a trip from here to there in distance; you measure it in time. Forged from an outpouring of lava some 130 million years ago and then exposed to millions of years of erosion, fluvial drainage, sun, wind, temperature extremes and seismic activity, the landscape is so rugged, it ranks as one of the harshest terrains on our planet. In this regard, the extreme terrain acts as its own fortress, a barrier to outsiders and a haven for those that can adapt to live within this land of sun-baked basalt and hardship. The wildlife that has forged a life in Damaraland’s mountains and valleys is unique, not in their physiology, but in their generational knowledge – survival messages passed on from old to young – which enables them to survive the very extremes of life itself.
Palmwag and Desert Rhino Camp in Damaraland are 10 nautical miles apart. Ask anyone at Palmwag where Desert Rhino Camp is and he will point westwards and say “net oor die bult” (just over the ridge). To drive there takes over an hour. To walk there would take the better part of a day. By aircraft it is a three-and-a-half-minute flight.
However, the ruggedness of the terrain stretches above ground level. Your three-and-a-half-minute flight will take you between the towering flat-top Etendeka mountains, over a series of successive basalt ridges, along an ancient drainage line, and into a chasm that was formed as the earth shook. The rivers of air that you will navigate can be kind and forgiving if the airstream is calm and untroubled; or it can be harsh, unforgiving and deadly if the air is moving like a wild river that becomes a beast of its own making, complete with streaming air-falls, hidden vortices and standing wave rapids. The terrain below conducts and directs the air overhead into a symphony of unfathomable discord.
The early morning calm – as the rocks awaken to a glowing blanket of pink and red light – is the right time to kick the tyres and light the fires of your big continental engine and head for the skies. In the oblique light, long shadows are cast and the plants and animals of the area stand out like miniature castles within their own mountainous fortress. The black rhinos, still high on the ridges after a period of night foraging on euphorbia, walk along established pathways traversed so often that the ground underneath sends up puffs of dust with each heavy footstep as they start their descent. The mountain zebras seem to enjoy securing the highest vantage point available and watching the rising sun. Giraffe shadows 20 metres long give their position away as they forage on boscia trees of equally long shadow. This all happens amidst the morning chorus of the Rüppell’s Korhaan.
As the shadows shorten, you notice that all the drainage lines head downwards, incised in the ancient larval topography, and many converge into larger systems, until they terminate and merge with the several major westerly flowing ephemeral rivers of Damaraland that all point in one direction –westwards, towards the Atlantic Ocean.
Within these ephemeral rivers – linear oases – live the desert elephants. They are not confined year round to these dry rivers but are dependent on them as vital arteries of food and water. The Ugab, Huab, Uniab, Hoanib and Hoarusib are the lifelines onto which the desert elephants cling and depend on.
With this in mind, and with a focus on the elephants and rhino, a joint security and monitoring aerial operation was launched in December 2021. The aim was twofold: to support the ongoing anti-poaching efforts through aerial monitoring and observation, and to attempt to get a count of the desert elephant population between the Ugab and Hoarusib rivers. An operation like this needs many diverse partners, all giving rather than taking and all with a common goal: the conservation and protection of a piece of our planet that is unique and irreplaceable. Westair, Save the Rhino Trust, the Namibian Chamber of Environment, Rooikat Foundation, Namibian Police Force, Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism, Gondwana and Wilderness Safaris joined hands to structure and support an operation with ambitious yet achievable goals.
Finding the elephants is one aspect of the operation and then counting them is another. Lady Luck smiled on us this time, as not only did we find the elephants, but they were in relatively open spaces where we could get as good a count as possible. The best sighting we had was rather comical. It was a gathering of elephants on the road at the picnic site on Dopsteekhoogte Pass near Wêreldsend. From a distance I assumed the gathering might be a group of tourists stopping for a dop on Dopsteekhoogte. As we got closer, we saw it was not tourists but elephants, casually gathered around the resting site, probably on their way to the Huab via the Springbok River.
The value of being airborne in a terrain where rock and surface features limit even short journeys cannot be overestimated. In a short but intense period of flying time across the Damaraland region, the community of the area saw us every day, we saw them, we noted any suspicious activities, recorded wildlife sightings, counted elephants, found mortalities, navigated extreme conditions and yet somehow always returned to a safe port. We could also provide a daily morning traffic report of the roads between Bergsig, Palmwag, Driefontein, Warmquelle, Sesfontein, Grootberg, Brandberg and the Giribes plains.
Damaraland, in all its splendid glory, is a dangerous place. It is harsh, unforgiving and beautiful. For all its robust boldness, the wildlife of this domain is fragile, as it is living on the very edge of climatic extremes and survival. The danger for this wildlife cohort of desert survivors comes not from the evil that somehow seeks to destroy it, but from those who do nothing about it. TNN
Elzanne McCulloch
The area bordering the Namib-Naukluft National Park in Namibia’s south, which may seem like a wasteland to some, has become synonymous with conservation. Unsuccessful commercial small livestock farms having given way to large tracts of fencless land allowing for the unhindered movement of desert adapted wildlife.
The Pro-Namib is a transition zone between the arid Namib and the escarpments to the East where a slightly higher rainfall means a more constant supply of grazing. This region is of critical importance for animals moving out of the desert proper during droughts in search of sustenance. Thanks to various private nature reserves wildlife like gemsbok, springbok and other hardy desert dwellers are able to once again freely follow seasonal migratory routes.
Ondili is not only committed to responsible tourism through a range of low-impact, environmentally friendly establishments situated in some of the country’s most pristine and ecologically sensitive landscapes, but also plays an important role in conserving the Pro-Namib.
Although Ondili maintains and develops nature reserves in various parts of Namibia, the group’s most ambitious project is the remarkable Namib Tsaris Nature Reserve. Situated in the ecologically sensitive Greater Sossusvlei-Namib Landscape, the reserve currently covers 120,000 ha.
Namib-Naukluft National Park, with the massive coastal dune belt known as the Namib Sand Sea UNESCO World Heritage Site, forms a large part of this landscape initiative. The private NamibRand Nature Reserve borders on the national park and the Namib Tsaris Nature Reserve also connects to these conservation areas. However, it adds additional biomes to the greater continuous area under conservation. The Nature Reserve includes the Tsaris mountains, characterised by plateaus, gorges and wide-open plains. This means that the vast protected area from the Skeleton Coast to the Sossusvlei dunes, NamibRand and the Nubib mountains now also extends east to the Tsaris mountains and towards the Maltahöhe limestone plateau.
The reserve is made up of farmland previously used for commercial sheep farming but due to the unreliable rainfall in these parts, these farms were never really economically viable. Farmers looking for better land elsewhere and the retirement of the older generation with nobody to take over, have opened opportunities for these farms to be bought over a period of several years and to create larger continuous areas for conservation.
For every guest room at one of the Ondili lodges, the Ondili Group creates at least 1,000 ha of nature reserve in Namibia.
Creating a nature reserve requires various inputs and the following has been done:
Grazing camps are secured with fences that are 1 to 1.2 m high. While necessary when implementing a rotational grazing system on a commercial farm, these fences are detrimental to the natural movement of wildlife. Desert-dwelling animals such as gemsbok are adapted to walking great distances to find grazing and water. This natural movement is hindered by camp and boundary fences as well as causing many fatalities of animals attempting to cross or get through these man-made barriers. Dismantling fences is therefore a vital step in the creation of a nature reserve. Vast unfenced areas with freeroaming wildlife is the aim.
Thousands of kilometres of fencing has been dismantled in the Namib Tsaris Nature Reserve – a job that kept several teams busy for years. Fences can run through gorges which are difficult to access, sometimes up to 10 km away from the nearest farm road. This dismantled material of iron posts and wire had to be carried to the nearest road for removal by truck.
Other deconstruction operations on the reserve included the dismantling of old water reservoirs, drinking troughs, overland water pipes, windpumps, farm buildings and other defunct structures. A further necessary action was excavating the rubbish dumps which developed over decades, containing not only household waste but also hazardous waste and machinery remains.
Naturally, water supply is a vital issue in a desert landscape. Windpumps have been removed and replaced with solar pumps, a much more effective way of controlling how much water is extracted. As wild animals cover longer distances to water points than domestic animals, the number of drinking points in a reserve can be reduced to every 7 to 10 km, depending on the topography and the presence of boreholes. Drinking points have been changed from troughs to sunken drinking holes that are gently sloped and lined with stones to prevent slipping. This way, small animals can access the water and the drinking point can be used to wallow. Where possible, natural springs are integrated into the water supply concept.
The destructive nature of commercial farming in sensitive areas can have long-lasting effects on the plant- and wildlife.
Overgrazing leads to scrub encroachment. Grass is displaced by bush and at the same time, lack of grass cover causes susceptibility to soil erosion. De-bushing takes place in areas with a conspicuous imbalance in favour of bush. This allows the grass to grow back in certain parts of the reserve.
Hunting played a large role on these farms. Predators were killed because they kill sheep, ungulates because they were useful as a source of meat and because they competed for
grazing with the farm animals. In a nature reserve, a balanced variety of species is the aim. Certain animals are actively reintroduced, while some species have returned on their own.
Due to the aridity of the area, extended periods of drought, overgrazing and tracks laid unwisely are the root cause of soil erosion when it rains. A number of protective measures have been put in place to control this loss of topsoil. This included the construction of small dams to reduce river and stream velocity, as well as building strategically placed drainage channels, setting roads higher than the channel so that water does not run in the road, and building humps to redirect water.
Since these measures have to be carried out in vast areas, it is a costly and lengthy process which needs to be sustained.
Ondili’s commitment embodies promoting nature conservation through its lodges by investing all profits in the establishment and maintenance of the Ondili Nature Reserves. Furthermore, for every guest room at one of the Ondili lodges, Ondili creates at least 1,000 ha of nature reserve in Namibia. The nature reserves in return create jobs for local communities.
When staying at Desert Homestead Lodge and Desert Homestead Outpost, the two lodges situated within the Namib Tsaris Nature Reserve, guests not only get to enjoy the fruits of the ongoing conservation efforts to this incredible area, but also know that their stay contributes to its further development and success. TNN
Text Katja Haase
Photographs Victoria Paige & Brent Lindeque
All of us had to adjust while the pandemic filtered into our dayto-day life, making major lifestyle changes as we went along. For nearly two years of having to find new creative ideas and hoping for the travel industry to recover, conservation continued… education continued… and so did the passion for sustainable tourism. You see, while the world seemingly came to a standstill, nature forced us to keep going. Conservation had to continue. Supporting communities had to continue. Therefore, tourism had to continue. Because conservancies and communities still rely on tourism.
With this in mind, Journeys Namibia invited a group of wonderful influential guests from neighbouring South Africa. The group included journalists who highlighted the importance of sustainable tourism in our country, emphasising the importance of community lodges and conservation in Namibia, and essentially for Namibia. We focused on three of our lodges – those with a strong focus on community and conservation. Unique in their own way, each caters to different target markets and visitors. The goal should be to spread the word of conservancy lodges to different markets and to tell the story of the different fundamentals and projects that allow for change and opportunities in these communities. Maria Cantwell once said: “Conservation must be more than a convenient slogan.” We agree, conservation should not be convenient, but a lifelong passion and long-term preservation of nature passed on to future generations. We at Journeys Namibia strive for this every day.
While this project was in the pipeline for some months, due to the pandemic and the travel restrictions that came with it, we celebrated the arrival of the group in Windhoek in November. And what better way to do so than by partnering up with other Namibian companies to be able to showcase the Land of the Brave to our South African friends:
• Namibia Car Rental offered the wheels for the trip;
• FlyNamibia hosted our guests on their flights from Cape Town to Windhoek;
• Am Weinberg was the first stop for our group in Windhoek;
• Strand Hotel was the last stop in Swakopmund;
• The Tug Restaurant provided dinner; and
• Rennies Travel organised the PCR Tests in Namibia.
After the first stay and evening in Windhoek at the stunning Am Weinberg, the group hit the road and made their way up to Hobatere Lodge. The lodge is situated on the western side of Etosha National Park, approximately 550 km north of Windhoek, and the perfect way to showcase the vastness and size of our beautiful Namibia.
“The standout image I have of my visit to Namibia is a feeling: a sublime and potentially contradictory combination of elation and extreme calm. I think this comes from the rare sense of isolation in mind-blowingly beautiful and extreme landscapes. In some places, you can feel like you (and your little crew) are the only people in the world – even that time is standing still I’ve been to Namibia a few times and had that feeling every time. It’s a feeling I don’t think I’ve experienced anywhere else.” - Elizabeth Sleith, Sunday Times
While Hobatere Lodge could be considered a mini Etosha with its 24-hour game viewing opportunity overlooking a waterhole, it is also 100% community owned by the ≠Khoadi-//Hôas Conservancy. In addition, Hobatere Lodge is home to the Hobatere Lion Pride, which together with the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism (MEFT) creates a safe haven for the lions.
Visiting Hobatere Lodge, the group took part in a night drive to experience this area under the evening sky. Focusing on the nocturnal animals, birdlife and insects, it was clear to see that all species have their own purpose in the ecosystem.
After a hearty bush breakfast at Hobatere Lodge, the group continued to Grootberg Lodge, which also forms part of the ≠Khoadi-//Hôas Conservancy. Grootberg Lodge is unique in every way, being perched on the rim of the Etendeka Plateau with endless views over the Klip River valley. As the first mid-market establishment in the country that is 100% owned by a conservancy, it is a landmark in the Namibian tourism industry.
“Grootberg Lodge – the layout, the beautiful rooms, that incredible infinity pool and the kind, attentive staff. It really is a little slice of heaven.” - Brent Lindeque, Good Things Guy
12 000 hectares have been set aside by the ≠Khoadi-//Hôas community for conservation and tourism. It is in this pristine wilderness that guests can explore either on foot or by car to encounter some of Namibia’s iconic wildlife species,
The standout image I have of my visit to Namibia is a feeling: a sublime and potentially contradictory combination of elation and extreme calm.
including the desert-adapted elephant and black rhino. While the group visited the lodge, they were introduced to the community, got to spend the day searching for the elusive desert-adapted elephants and took part in very important chats with our guide, Bob, about human-wildlife conflict. Over the last seven years, droughts have tremendously affected the northwest of Namibia, the people of the area had to adapt and with that have encountered new challenges in order to survive. As have the animals in the area. Humanwildlife conflict is not a new term, yet it is one that moves to the forefront, especially in times like these, where tourism has fallen away in many parts of the country and farmers are dependent on their livestock or crops.
“Sustainable tourism, particularly in Africa, whose main selling point is the natural resources of wildlife and ‘untouched’ landscapes, is non-negotiable. The terms ‘sustainability’ and
‘responsible tourism’ have been gaining traction for a while now and it’s clear they will become even more important in a post-pandemic world. The best assets of Namibia are those parts that are completely natural and untouched and the preservation of these spaces is in part enabled and encouraged through the funding that tourism provides. This is the main appeal of the word ‘sustainable’ to me. Most notably, the value of involving communities is the persuading of the people who live on the land to protect these assets for the long term, rather than sell them out for short-term gains. I do think, however, that it is a term easily used and I have seen many instances of hotels and lodges overtly claiming ‘sustainability’ credentials while blatantly committing environmental/social crimes (not, however, in Namibia). I hope that in general more and more tourism providers will put their money where their mouth is and not simply use ‘sustainability’ as a buzzword with little actual action to back it up.” –
Elizabeth Sleith, Sunday Times
Last but definitely not least, the group made their way to Shipwreck Lodge, located on the famous Namibian Skeleton Coast. Adding some magic to the long drive from Damaraland to the coast of Namibia, they found the desert elephants right next to the main road. After searching for the gentle giants the day before without luck, this was reason for celebration and a highlight for the group on their way out of Damaraland. It was also a reminder that Namibia is full of surprises.
On the way to the coast, passing Palmwag and Springbokwasser, the scenery and landscape is ever-changing and showcases some famous Welwitschias and !Nara plants. The group also drove past Torra Bay and Terrace Bay –two very well-known spots for fishing enthusiasts, especially around the festive season. The Skeleton Coast is known for the whale bones as well as shipwrecks that are scattered along the shore of the Atlantic Ocean.
Upon arrival at Möwe Bay, the group was welcomed by their guide, Bravo, with some drinks and snacks. Shipwreck Lodge partners with local conservancies Puros and Sesfontein to host guests, with a strong focus on eco-tourism. In addition to a minimal footprint, the lodge is dedicated to community engagement and development, using locally sourced and sustainable materials and art, recruiting its staff from local communities and funding wildlife protection efforts in the area.
It is easy to get lost in the history of the Skeleton Coast and to be mesmerised by the stories of the shipwrecks found in the area, not to mention the unbelievably scenic landscape that is both unexpected and spectacular.
For many in the group, Shipwreck Lodge and the Skeleton Coast National Park was the highlight of the trip. Especially for Jonathan Boynton-Lee: “Visiting the Skeleton Coast has been on my bucket list for many years. In fact, for my final matric art project, I actually painted one of the shipwrecks from the Skeleton Coast. So, for more than 20 years I’ve wanted to visit the area.”
It is easy to get lost in the history of the Skeleton Coast and to be mesmerised by the stories of the shipwrecks found in the area, not to mention the unbelievably scenic landscape that is both unexpected and spectacular. And let’s not forget the quad bike activity that will get your blood pumping. The dry riverbed of the Hoarusib River is home to many different species of wildlife, some sand falls and clay castles, bringing to mind a long-lost mediaeval city.
"Perhaps it is linked to the community investment in the places we stayed, but the secret weapon for me was absolutely the human element. There are many slick destinations where the hospitality, while flawless, can feel mechanical and insincere. This is totally understandable (it’s a job), but I think the standout element of my experiences in Namibia is a genuine sense of ‘welcomeness’ and warmth from the hosts and communities. The underlying sense is that there is a genuine pride in the country and its assets, and an eagerness to share this with visitors, as well as a relaxed and friendly approach to life that South Africans share.” Elizabeth
Sleith, Sunday Times
Having the last sundowner on the dunes overlooking the lodge and seeing the waves of the Atlantic Ocean rushing in makes one realise that we as humans are such a small element of our ecosystem, and we too have our place on this planet. Sustainable tourism should not only be a buzzword; it should be the way forward.
Namibia has been a leading example of ecotourism, being dedicated and focused to the cause, giving purpose to our communities and creating living spaces where humans and wildlife can coexist in harmony. We are very happy to be able to share this need for conservation and love for our country with our visitors and hope that the past two years have paved the way to preserving our natural habitats. TNN
Katja Haase
If you find a tree with numerous “strings”, or vines, hanging down among the branches and leaves, you can be sure that you have a sausage tree at hand. These strings are the leftovers of the incredibly beautiful flowers of the Kigelia, which were attached to the long pendants, in chandelier-style. The fruit, or “sausages”, that are so characteristic of the sausage tree, are also hanging on long strings. Viewed from far it appears to be a dark tree with a beautiful dense crown.
- Helga Burger
Another “beginner” tree: if you cannot get this one with its massive “sausages” (present throughout the year), stop watching trees because you will never make it as a tree spotter. If you like taking a break under a nice tree, this is the one to go for. It has a wonderful dense canopy for shade, sausages to eat when you forgot yours at the camp, the flowers (barbarically beautiful) to appreciate in summer (with the associated birds enjoying the nectar). The one precaution to take is that the fruit might fall on your head, leaving you with a headache that might never clear. The sausage closely resembles an outsized human pendulous penis of up to 1 metre / 4 kg (ripe in March). Apparently, the flower pan looks like a vagina, which obviously makes this tree very sexy.
- Pompie Burger
In this series we explore the beauty of trees with our beloved local nature-enthusiasts and authors, Helga and Pompie Burger. Each with a unique voice and opinions on how best to identify the trees of the Kavango and Zambezi, Helga and Pompie help us through the tricky trials of identifying northeastern Namibia’s most iconic flora.Fruit is usually visible from a distance Sausage-like fruits also compound
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Kigelia africana AFRIKAANS: Worsboom
GERMAN: Leberwurstbaum
KWANGALI: Uvunguvungu
LOZI: Mupolota
SEASONS OF THE SAUSAGE TREE
STRIKING FEATURES OF THE SAUSAGE TREE
• Large evergreen tree with a domeshaped crown
• Candelabras of big dark red flowers on long strings
• Massive fruit on strings
• Large tree of up to 20 metres with a somewhat short straight trunk
• The crown is shaped dome like to roundish
• Fruit is usually visible from a distance
• A semi-deciduous tree
• Large leathery rigid leaves often dilapidated
• Sausage-like fruits also compound
• weigh 4 kg and is half a metre long hang from long strings
• Maroon coloured flowers large and showy but with an unpleasant smell
• Crinkly petals form a cup around yellow stamens
• Flowers panicles up to 50 buds on long slender stalks
• Fruit can be dangerous when falling
• Fruit is partially or completely devoured by animals
• The sausage tree occurs in sandy soil
This article is an extract from The unbearable beauty of trees: 56 magnificent trees of Kavango and Zambezi written by Helga Burger, published in 2020.
To order The unbearable beauty of trees , contact Bonn at bonn@venture.com.na
Where to find Sausage Trees in the northeast
Cradled by the Kwando and Linyanti rivers at the Zambezi Region’s southernmost point, lies Namibia’s largest conserved wetland area, the 28,500-ha-large Nkasa Rupara National Park. Complex tectonic, climatic and hydrological events have shaped and reshaped the wetlands over countless aeons. The most dramatic change took place millions of years ago when uplift along the Linyanti Fault diverted the Kwando River into a northeasterly direction.
Since then, the fate of this extremely dynamic system has been at the mercy of the rainfall in the Kwando River’s catchment area in central Angola where it is known as the Cuando. No two seasons are the same. Blockages caused by sedimentation and dense reed beds or floating vegetation divert water into channels that have been waterless for decades, while channels that flowed only recently become dry unexpectedly. Hippos play a role in the constantly changing waterways by keeping channels open, while a termite mound built in a channel during a dry cycle can force the water to find another course. Peat beds act as sponges, releasing the water gradually during the dry season, but during dry cycles they become part of the floodplain grassland and are prone to peat fires.
The Kwando River usually peaks at Kongola in May/June, but the water only reaches Nkasa Rupara several weeks later because of its meandering course and gentle gradient, while reeds, papyrus and floating vegetation also slows its flow. During very high levels, the water of the Kwando River flows along an intricate network of southeastward-flowing channels that dissect the grasslands and floodplains. Large areas are flooded when the channels overspill their banks.
During years of major flooding, such as the 2008/9 flood, up to 80% of the park is inundated, leaving only Nkasa and Rupara standing like islands amidst a vast expanse of water. Water flowing along the channels that dissect the floodplains transform the wetlands into a mosaic of lily-carpeted channels, vast reed beds, tranquil backwaters, pools and oxbow lakes. Large areas remained inundated until 2014 when the water began receding, but deep channels still prevented access to Nkasa Island many years later.
Wet cycles are periodically followed by dry cycles. Belowaverage flows of the Kwando River from 1991 to 2000 resulted in a dry cycle that lasted more than a decade. The floodplains were completely dry by 1994 and largely remained dry until the 2005 wet cycle started.
The park, originally named the Mamili National Park, was proclaimed in 1990, but renamed the Nkasa Rupara National Park after the two large, elevated areas (‘islands’) in 2012. It is a sanctuary to the largest buffalo population in Namibia, while large herds of elephant congregate on the islands of Nkasa and Rupara during the dry winter months. Red lechwe, waterbuck and reedbuck can be seen on the floodplains, while the elusive sitatunga occurs in dense papyrus stands. Plains zebra, blue wildebeest, impala, bushbuck, kudu, warthogs, vervet monkeys and baboons also roam this area.
Hippo and crocodiles abound in the Kwando River, oxbow lakes, backwaters and pools. The large predators are represented by two resident lion prides, leopard and spotted hyena. Serval and civet cat, two rather elusive carnivores, have also been recorded in the park.
The diversity of aquatic habitats, grasslands and patches of woodland supports a rich and varied birdlife. With a checklist of over 400 species, the park is one of the top birding spots in Namibia, among them endangered species such as the Southern Ground Hornbill, Wattled Crane, Slaty Egret, Rufousbellied Heron and Saddle-billed Stork. The Black and Copperytailed Coucal, Swamp Boubou, Long-tailed Starling, Chirping Cisticola and Rosy-throated Longclaw are among the other noteworthy species. TNN
Where the Kwando River makes an almost 90-degree turn northeast, its name changes to the Linyanti and at this point the Selinda Spillway links the Kwando River to the Okavango Delta. Water from the delta flowed into the Kwando for the first time in nearly 30 years during the exceptionally high floods of 2008/9, while water from the Linyanti also flowed into the Savuti Channel for the first time in nearly three decades.
During major floods, water from the Linyanti reaches the ephemeral Lake Liambezi which is also fed by water which flows along the Bukalo Channel which is linked to the Zambezi River. When full, the water flows into what is known as the Chobe River.
Nkasa Rupara is only accessible in a four-wheel-drive vehicle and large areas are inaccessible after high floods. Travelling parties should consist of a minimum of two vehicles and carry recovery equipment in case of an emergency.
Camping is not permitted in the park, but there are several campsites just a few kilometres from the park entrance:
• Rupara Restcamp, 3 km north of the park entrance, is managed on behalf of the Wuparo Conservancy. It has campsites with communal ablutions, campsites with own ablutions and self-catering chalets sleeping two people and a family chalet. Tel: 066 686 101; email: info@rupara.com
• Nkasa Lupala Tented Camp, 1 km from the park entrance, is a joint venture between members of the Wuparo Conservancy and the owners, the Micheletti family. This eco-friendly lodge won the Responsible Tourism Award in 2016 and has been awarded five desert flowers (the highest ranking) by Eco Awards. Guests are accommodated in luxury tents, while the central area consists of the reception, dining room, lounge, bar and a viewing deck overlooking a channel. A variety of activities is offered. Tel: 066 68 6101; email: info@nkasalupalalodge.com
• Jackalberry Tented Camp is situated in a concession area in the park, 13 km from the park entrance at Shishintze. Guests are accommodated in four luxury tents, while the main area, the double-storey Jackalberry Tower, accommodates the reception, dining area, lounge and bar with magnificent views over the grasslands. A variety of activities is offered. Tel: 061 25 0725; email: jackalberry@resdest.com
Maps: The Kavango-Zambezi National Parks map which covers the tracks in and around Rupara Island is indispensable.
Simone Micheletti
On your way in, the sounds of hippos draw you to the river where you are welcomed to magical lush surroundings.
The car is packed, the rooftop tent strapped and you bought more snacks than you should have for the nine or so hour drive to Bwabwata National Park from Windhoek. It’s a long haul north, but now you have hit the sharp right turn, leaving Rundu in your rearview mirror. Each tree is starting to look greener than the one before as you cruise alongside the Okavango River, keeping a keen eye open for the entrance to your accommodation.
Found it! Hopefully taking the correct turnoff and onto the winding soft sand road that leads you to the lovely riverside lodge you booked for that relaxing break you really needed. Tracking through dense vegetation and then flood plains, local wood carvings and miniature mokoros (traditional dugout canoes) of all sizes will be on display with hand-woven baskets for you to purchase. Do not be fooled if you do not see anyone standing next to the merchandise: once you stop, locals will come running from the cool shadows cast by the surrounding trees ready to do business. Most likely English is not their first language, which could hinder communication slightly. Be patient as they try their best to sell you some of their handcrafted goods. As for getting any change due to you, forget about it!
Passing the gates, the excitement kicks in a little more. As you stop in front of reception and exit the car, you give one of those long full body stretches to signify how grateful you are that you finally made it after a long drive. On your way in, the sounds of hippos draw you to the river where you are welcomed to magical lush surroundings. Looking across the river to see if you can spot some wildlife, you detect a moving shadow but “damn, I left the binoculars in the car!” All booked in, the only logical thing to do next is to have a quick beer before you set up camp. But only one beer! Just enough to give you the energy to unpack and start a fire for the blissful evening you have been waiting for.
Sleeping in is not an option with nature's alarm clock of hippos splashing and grunting in the water and various birds having their raucous morning conversation right above your tent. But why would you sleep late when you can book a boat and go tiger fishing or take the opportunity to tick-off wildlife spotting. The more well-known animals such as elephants,
lions, crocodiles, buffaloes and hippos, as well as some of their friends like red lechwe, sitatunga and reedbuck. Hippos are a given but when taking that boat ride keep a vigilant eye on the river’s banks for any sunbathing crocodiles.
While navigating through Bwabwata National Park, be aware of which area you are in. Bwabwata is made up of three protected Core Areas. The Buffalo Core Area is along the east bank of the Okavango River, while the Mahango Core Area is on the opposite bank of the river. Along the eastern end of the park, hugging the Kwando River, is the Kwando Core Area, famous for the horseshoe bend of the river, where hundreds of elephants can be seen during certain times of the year. Bwabwata is overseen by a co-management system between the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism, resident communities and conservancies such as the Kwando Conservancy and the Mayuni Conservancy. The collaboration has the coherent aim to ensure a more harmonious ecosystem where the quality of life is more substantial for all entities.
As abundant as Bwabwata National Park is, it is also part of a much larger conservation effort that extends across our neighbouring countries – Angola, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe. The Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA TFCA) protects numerous national parks, game reserves, community conservation areas, forest reserves and iconic tourism destinations. The most popular destinations are Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe) and the Okavango Delta (Botswana).
Bwabwata National Park forms a gateway to discover more of Southern Africa’s wonders. Truly a destination for you to add to your “Must Visit” list. As much as the diverse wildlife and luscious landscapes that there are to see, there is also valuable knowledge about history and conservation stories to discover. TNN
BWABWATA NATIONAL PARK FUN FACTS:
Proclamation date: 2007
Size: approximately 6 100 km 2
Number of permanent rivers: two
Dry Season: April – October
Rainy Season: November – March
Rainfall: 550–600 mm per year
Average monthly temperature: 30°C
Malaria: high-risk area, prophylaxis is recommended.
Long-toed Lapwing. Not fearing anything even attacking an African Marsh Harrier when they get too close.
Silent rage is selfdestructive
Text & Photographs Pompie Burger
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Edith Eger
Corgis are highly alert dogs, they react to any sound by barking. They are fearless, aggressive and excellent watch dogs, reacting by sounding the alarm for almost everything. Unfortunately it barks at almost anything, which can get annoying. They also become destructive, chew on furniture or other forbidden things. Separation anxiety can occur when not saying goodbye, and barking all day, getting on everybody's nerves, is a well known trait. Not unlike the Lapwing...
Similarities between Corgis and Lapwings: they are both highly alert and react to any sound or disturbance. They are fearless, even attacking elephant herds about to tread on their eggs. Unfortunately, they scream at almost anything, which can get annoying. But Lapwings do not become destructive, chew furniture or forbidden things. Separation anxiety is not known to Lapwings when not saying goodbye, but their loud calls all day long can also get on everyones nerves.
Why is there a problem with differentiating between Plovers and Lapwings? Some clever scientist decided that they should be separated into Charadrius and Vanellus families, which used to be all Charadriidae. Interestingly, Charadrius means Plover in Greek and Vanellus means – yes, you have guessed correctly – Plover, but in Latin. The problem is they do look markedly different. Plovers, compared to Lapwings, are much smaller, short-legged and short-necked, and they are ringed. Incidentally lapwing refers to the erratic flight pattern leaping from side to side. Apparently, Lapwings are reluctant to wade, and prefer running when feeding, but their eggs look remarkably the same.
There are collectively 63 species worldwide, with 5 Lapwing species and 11 Plover species in Namibia. They occur all over the world, except in frozen areas or very dense vegetation (forest). Their plumage colours are a combination of black, white and olive grey, which helps with camouflage (disruptive effect) pretty much as in the case of zebras. If by now you still do not know what a Lapwing is: they have bare skin around their eyes, some have facial wattles and compact carpometacarpal knobs or spurs.
My favourite lapwing by far is the White-crowned Lapwing (Vanellus albiceps), mainly because of its temperament, being extremely hardegat, but also because it is a rather rare and special species in Namibia, isolated in the Zambezi Region. One of their favourite habitats is near Mubala Lodge right next to the very famous, and often visited by me, Carmine Bee-eater breeding area. Visiting the Carmines, I must drive past the Lapwings, and to be confronted by them every time on my way there is usually a very petrifying experience, but also very exciting. Incidentally, they are one of the two Lapwing species with a yellow wattle, which with their almost white eyes adds to their ferocious look. More importantly they have the most impressive spurs of all, which just shows that their attitude is backed by the necessary weaponry.
Second in line is the Long-toed Lapwing (Vanellus crassirostris), in this case because of its distribution, again special to the Zambezi Region, and they are very uncommon. Their main attractions are their red eyes and long toes, an adaptation for meandering on floating vegetation along rivers and floodplains, spreading their weight over large areas, pretty much like the African Jacana. Because of the habitat, they prefer aquatic insects as well as small snails. They often feed along Spur-winged Geese which disturb the vegetation for them to gain access to food.
The African Wattled Lapwing (Vanellus senegallus) is also a rather special species as far as southern Africa is concerned, but it is more widespread than the first two. They, like me, prefer the Zambezi Region. This species is the other wattle bearer, but in addition it has a red base to the wattles. Its other remarkable difference to the other Lapwings is its streaked neck. It also prefers waterlogged or moist short grassland.
White-crowned Lapwing
If by any chance you have not seen or heard a Blacksmith Lapwing (Vanellus armatus), you are either hard of hearing or should go and see (hear) your ophthalmologist. These Lapwings are extremely common and found in almost any habitat all over Namibia, apparently adapted to man-made habitats like sports fields, usually supporting Namibian teams in their quest for fame. They are the most gregarious, like all the other lapwings especially during the non-breeding season. Equally common is the Crowned Lapwing due to its adaptability to almost all different kinds of habitats. These birds also support Namibian sports teams, especially cricket. Both of the above prefer insects, worms and other invertebrates.
As far as the Lapwings’ similarities with Corgis are concerned, the main ones are their vocal abilities. All of them share a rather (extremely) loud, incisive, high-pitched, piercing call. Apparently, crocodile hunters swear that
this call warns crocodiles to take to the water. As far as aggressiveness is concerned, they fear nothing, not even elephants which they will remove from their breeding area without trepidation.
As for the struggle amongst the scientists/ornithologists about which are Lapwings, and which are Plovers, I will leave it up to you. In any case, I will include a picture of a Plover just to make it a bit easier for the reader to make up his mind.
As far as Corgis’ alertness is concerned, during a burglary at my house, while I was fighting off the burglar, my two Corgis appeared almost 10 minutes after the wrestling match started, quickly lost interest in the situation, and left the scene of the crime after a few minutes to go back to the warmth and comfort of their bed. TNN
If ever there was a person or driver who is not suitable to write about cars, i.e. 4-wheel vehicles, I can claim without any doubt to be that guy (call me a man). I might as well start with my claims to fame with changing my car’s flat tyre and putting back the same flat tyre. If the car stops working, I can check the tyres and fuel and, well, that’s it. I was once unable to open the bonnet because I couldn’t find the catch.
Unfortunately, or fortunately, one needs a vehicle or veldskoen if you want to go into the bush. Remember, Africa is a tough country. The choices are endless. This article was not sponsored by Land Rover or Toyota, so I can let my thoughts and intelligent wisecracks meander through the bushes and waters of our beautiful land. My favourite quote: “Some people take their 4x4 on holiday” (Helga). To those people, I cannot give any good advice, they will know better. If you use your vehicle to get to places to see and enjoy, this is it.
Choosing a vehicle, i.e. 4x4, one must keep in mind that “Everybody has something good inside them. Some hide it, some neglect it, but it is there” (Mother Teresa). May I add that all vehicles have something good inside them (Land Cruiser), some hide it (Land Rover), some people (Pompie) neglect them, but it is there. If you go to Rehoboth a Tazz will do, but if you want to go where the road is kak, thick sand, big stones, deep water or mud, you might need something bulkier and stronger. If you think of going to places where no vehicle can go, except the above-mentioned, do not go there, you will end up cutting your holiday short. If you are lucky enough to stop somebody who will/can help you, you will mess up their holiday as well.
“Drugs may be the road to nowhere, but at least it’s the scenic route” (Steven Wright). Or maybe not. Drinking and driving is not the best way of doing any road trip. The problems you will end up with will include getting lost, stuck or caught by the police. Rather wait till you reach your destination, sit down, have a beer and let your wife serve you dinner next to the campfire.
“Angels can fly because they take themselves lightly” (G.K. Chesterton). If you are one of those fortunate people who have too much money, take a trip in an aircraft or hot air balloon. The view is usually fabulous, and you will not get stuck in the mud or sand.
“All great adventures have moments that are really crap” (Ellen Potter). This is almost inevitable. Getting stuck, lost or killed by a lion are some of these. With a GPS in every vehicle or a cell phone at hand, it might not be that common nowadays but remember there is always a possibility that there might not be a signal.
“In art one cannot have too much patience” (Vincent van Gogh). Some 4x4 drivers will tell you off-road driving is an art. For most of us it is not, it’s just lekker and difficult. First, do a recce of where is east and west, most of the time the sun will rise in the east and set in the west. From here onwards it is quite easy, but if you still cannot find your way you are truly lost. Most importantly, take enough water and petrol when you set off on any journey, even if you think you cannot get lost. A flat tyre is quite easy, change it (remember not to put the same flat tyre back on). If you do not have a spare, fix the tyre, if you cannot fix it, call for help.
Getting stuck in the sand is a strong possibility in the desert. The best solution is to go with a companion who knows how to drive in the sand so that he can save you. When the obstacle is water, take a tjoep (inner tube) with and swim out to dry land and walk till you have cell phone signal and can call somebody for help. Mud can be rather challenging if nobody is in sight (for days); wait for the mud to dry, drive out and continue your journey.
“Success is the ability to go from failure to failure without losing your enthusiasm” (Winston Churchill). Enthusiasm and patience – “Geduld is n stadige manier om jou moer te strip” (Johan Bakkes) –are probably your best travel companions, that is apart from good company. If I get into a situation where I realise I am lost or my petrol tank is running low, I tend to drive faster and become incredibly quiet (from failure to failure). Whatever you do, you must always have a plan B. There is nothing as efficient to calm your nerves as a beer or a cigarette.
The easy part of travelling is choosing your entertainment (music). "One of the tragedies of real life is that there is no background music" (Annie Proulx, Shipping News). I prefer Dylan, Springsteen or Kristofferson, but whoever your favourite is, you can vary the volume depending on your company. If by any chance you do not have any form of music you can do the singing yourself.
Drive safely. TNN
Text Pompie Burger
“How many roads must a man walk before you can call him a man?” - Bob Dylan
(bundu-bashing)
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