Travel News Namibia Summer 2015/16

Namibia TRAVEL NEWS

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VOLUME 24 No 1 | SUMMER 2015/16

Roughing it for

RHINOS

TOP 10

New things to try at the coast

khaudum national park the last frontier

Birding N$40.00 incl. VAT R40.00 incl. VAT

photography tips

Villa Margherita info@villamargherita.com.na

hello@ongava.com

OR NAMIBIA

info@skeletoncoastsafaris.com

info@theolive-namibia.com

info@erongowilderness-namibia.com

info@africat.org

TJDR (CT) 43071/E

CELEBRATE

WORLD-CLASS

Windhoek Lager, Namibia’s finest export, has been made to the exacting standards of the Reinheitgebot since we started brewing Lager in 1920.

This commitment to brewing Lager the right way has won us eight consecutive international DLG gold medals.

Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18.

Drink Responsibly.

is published by Venture Publications in Windhoek, Namibia www.travelnewsnamibia.com 4 Herzinger Crescent, Klein Windhoek PO Box 21593, Windhoek, Namibia Managing Editor Rièth van Schalkwyk Technical Director Naude Muller Production manager Elzanne Erasmus elzanne@travelnewsnamibia.com Public relations Janine van der Merwe janine@travelnewsnamibia.com LAYOUT & Design Viktoria Human Customer Service Bonn Nortjé bonn@venture.com.na Online Editor Sanet van Zijl info@travelnewsnamibia.com

Text Contributors Annabelle Venter, Ron Swilling, Pompie Burger, Elzanne Erasmus, Sanet van Zijl, Christie Keulder, Marita van Rooyen Photographers Paul van Schalkwyk, Ron Swilling, Pompie Burger, Elzanne Erasmus, Sanet van Zijl, Marita van Rooyen, Annabelle Venter, Chris Botha, André de Jager, Xenia Ivanoff-Erb, Jaco Venter, Bernd Wasiolka, Danie Ferreira, Annalize Ferreira, Christie Keulder, André Bruwer, Marica Venter, Sean McCulloch, Ilsje du Plooy, Harald Braun Printers John Meinert Printing, Windhoek Travel News Namibia is published quarterly, distributed worldwide and produced solely on Apple Macintosh equipment. The editorial content of TNN is contributed by freelance writers and journalists. It is the sole property of the publisher and no part of the magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

cover photograph Chris Botha

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Visit the new TALA stock image library at www.talanamibia.photoshelter.com

ABOUT VENTURE

VENTURE PUBLICATIONS Venture Publications is the pioneer of Namibia tourism promotion. We are the leader in spreading the tourism word around the world. We distribute accurate, credible, up-to-date and regular tourism-related information on paper, in social media, on the World Wide Web, and on mobile apps.

We have reached hundreds of thousands over more than two decades. Be part of our community and let’s do it together.

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Conservation AND THE ENVIRONMENT IN NAMIBIA 2015

and the Environment in Namibia

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YEARS

Conservation and the Environment in Namibia, an annual special edition of Travel News Namibia, is published in close cooperation with the Ministry of Environment and Tourism, and is available as a printed magazine and online. The 2015 edition reflects NEDBANK's Go Green initiative.

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Huntinamibia

This annual magazine has an English edition for distribution in the USA and a German edition for distribution in Germanspeaking European countries. It consists of a minimum of 60 pages and is available as a printed magazine and online. www.huntnamibia.com.na

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VENTURE ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Travel News Namibia

@travel_news_namibia

@travelnewsnamib

antoinette's second book Namibia’s famous chef and author of the award-winning cookbook My Hungry Heart, Antoinette de Chavonnes Vrugt, has completed her second book, Life on a table, which was launched at the end of October. The book will be available at selected bookshops throughout Namibia or can be ordered from Venture Publications at bonn@venture.com.na

GET travel news namibia

ON YOUR MOBILE Visit TNN online via your mobile and keep up to date with what's news in Namibia.

EDITOR’S LETTER

From cover to cover

T

he most difficult choice about this edition was selecting the cover image.

SUMMER

in namibia

In a way that is a wonderful problem to have, because it means there are just so many stunning photographs to choose from. Since Travel News Namibia went commercial in 2012, we needed to consider what our magazine will look like on a shelf among hundreds of other titles. Will it catch the eye of a casual Sunday morning browser, or a passenger at an airport killing time at Exclusive Books? Do we want them to notice the NAMIBIA masthead first or will it be almost completely hidden if the display on the second shelf does not show the entire cover? Must the colour of the masthead complement the cover image or must it cause an explosion on the retina? How do we know what will appeal to our readers?

Do Namibians prefer animals to landscapes? Do our international readers have a completely different preference from those who know and love Namibia? Do we want our readers to crave fun activities, or aspire to visit stunning locations? And so the arguments go back and forth and in the end we still do not agree altogether, but one cover eventually makes the cut.

Normally we choose the photographs for my editorial page to correspond with the topics I mention. Not this time.

We want to determine if anybody bothers to read my editorial and we want to compare our calculated decision with the “readers’ choice”. Just as an extra bit of market research we want to see if social media can make or break us.

Use our Facebook page to make your choice. Which one of these covers would you have instinctively taken from a shelf? Or will you pick it up, whatever the cover, if you see that it is the new Travel News Namibia?

Thank you for choosing TNN in the first place. Our research is flawed from the word go, because in order to make your choice you already have the magazine in your hand and made a choice. We will put our research to good use.

And now you may continue and enjoy what we have put together for you.

If you are in the southern hemisphere we hope it will make good holiday reading, and if you are in the north our wish is that so much sun and fun and bright colours will entice you to make an immediate choice to travel to Namibia.

As I write this editorial, on November 16, 2015 the world does not seem like a good place and it makes me wonder if every good person on earth can really make a difference. The Travel News Namibia initiative, Ride for Rhinos, found at least 20 such people in Namibia. Enjoy the ride, I mean read, and I hope to inspire you to join us in 2016. Maybe we can change the world after all, one person at a time.

Through the window of my new camper I say goodbye to 2015 and wish all our readers, all over the world, peace and tolerance and happy travels.

Rièth van Schalkwyk

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SUMMER 2015 /16

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CONTENTS summer 2015/16 8 WHAT’S NEW(S)? What's happening, Namibia?

13 FAST FACTS All you need to know about Namibia 14 TAKE A BREAK between Windhoek and Swakopmund 20 KHAUDUM NATIONAL PARK The Last Frontier 30 PHOTOGRAPHIC FEATURE Bernd Wasiolka 36 TNN GOES FISHING with Cymot 40 ROUGHING IT FOR RHINOS The fight to save a species 50 TNN SHOPPING Visit Namibia's wonderful markets 52 FOODIES Katutura's hidden delights

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56 GENERATION WANDERLUST from the bush to the beach

CONTENTS

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36 62 BIRDING Pompie's photography tips 70 GOBABEB Silence in the desert 76 TOP 10 new things to try at the coast

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Orlando Haraseb wins Silver

at Wanderlust Travel World Guide Awards One of Namibia’s own, Orlando Haraseb, has been recognized as one of the best guides in the world and recently won Silver at the Wanderlust Travel World Guide Awards. Launched in 2005 to honour the unsung heroes of the travel world, the award is the only global award for tour leaders and guides. Each year thousands of guides from around the world are nominated by their clients. The event was held on 13 October 2015 at the Royal Geographic Society in London, UK. Orlando was chosen out of thousands of nominees who in the end were shortlisted to just eight and then whittled down to three finalists.

He is one of the most respected guides in Namibia and this was evident from testimonials that the jury considered when deciding on the winners.

This former policeman and international footballer has been in the tourism industry for many years, sharing his boundless knowledge, professionalism and enthusiasm with travellers from far and wide.

WHAT’s NEW(S)?

Compiled by Sanet van Zijl

Namibia chosen as vice president of UNWTO Namibia has been chosen as the vice president of the general assembly of the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UNWTO) in Medellin, Colombia. The deputy minister of environment and tourism, Tommy Nambahu, represented Namibia at the 21st general assembly of the UNWTO from 12-17 September. The meeting was attended by more than 900 representatives – including more than 70 ministers from 120 countries. Namibia along with Tunisia are the only African countries that were elected as members of the UNWTO’s Committee on Tourism and Competitiveness (CTC). This

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places Namibia at the forefront of decision-making regarding tourism development in the world. It also gives the country the chance to position its tourism industry in the mainstream internationally. Namibia is currently in the final phase of developing its tourism growth strategy, which means that the election has come at the perfect time. Namibia is also the only and very first African country which has been invited as a guest of honour to the Colmar International Tourism and Travel Show in France. It is a platform to promote tourism that Namibia will be proud to use.

Strand Hotel Swakopmund officially opens It promises to be an integral part of the town’s centre and a beachfront entertainment destination in itself. Much of what was loved about the old Strand Hotel has been incorporated into the new hotel, except now it is larger, better and reimagined with all of the tools and amenities of the 21st century. O&L Leisure’s aim is that the new Strand Hotel will become the social epicentre of Swakopmund again and be as welcoming as the town in which it is located.

Xenia Ivanoff-Erb

It has been several years since the historic old Strand Hotel was demolished, but after months and months of hard work and planning the brand new Strand Hotel Swakopmund finally opened its doors on 9 October. This impressive hotel boasts 125 rooms, conference facilities and three full-service, state-of-the-art restaurants – the Ocean Cellar, Brewer & Butcher and Farmhouse Deli – bars and terraces and a café, each designed to welcome hotel residents and locals alike. Uniquely located on the iconic Swakopmund Mole and almost surrounded by the southern Atlantic Ocean it will offer the finest uninterrupted sea views available anywhere in this quaint historic town.

Xenia Ivanoff-Erb

Xenia Ivanoff-Erb

WHAT’S NEW(S)?

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SUMMER 2015 /16

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Harold Page #getbeautiful

Naturally Namibia get natural Competition Naturally Namibia and Travel News Namibia are currently running the ultimate photography competition. It’s called “Get Natural” and you could win one of two amazing 7 night stays at any Naturally Namibia lodge! To enter you need to choose one of the 6 categories: get adventurous, get wild, get cultural, get beautiful, get creative and get moving. Take a photo that fits the category and post it to Facebook, Twitter or Instagram.

Tag your photo with @TravelNewsNamibia on Facebook, @TravelNewsNamib on Twitter, @travel_news_namibia on Instagram and remember to add the hashtag of the category

you choose (e.g. #getwild) as well as the hashtags #getnatural and #naturallynamibia.

Each week from October to the end of December 2015, one finalist will be chosen in each category. The finalist photo with the most ‘likes’ by the end of December is the winner.

It’s as simple as that! The more natural your entry, the better your chances…so get creative! Check out our website: www.travelnewsnamibia.com or Facebook Travel News Namibia for more information.

johan n van niekerk #getcultural jaso n nott #getcreative

jessica sack #getadventurous

anja denker #getwild 10

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WHAT’S NEW(S)?

Namibia wins the African Culinary Cup The 2015 African Culinary Cup (ACC) was hosted by the Namibian Chefs Association in Windhoek, Namibia during October 2015. This is yet another event that puts Namibia on the map for tourism and hospitality. Egypt, Mauritius, Lesotho, South Africa and Namibia competed against each other and at the end of it all Namibia walked away with the trophy, making the Namibian team the Junior Culinary Team of the Year. The ACC was initiated by the South African Chefs Association (SACA) in 2013 and brings together the best national junior culinary teams from across Africa and the Middle East. The competition is endorsed by the World Association of Chefs’ Societies (WACS), therefore the strictest global judging standards were implemented as a testament to culinary precision and innovation.

The Namibian Junior Culinary Team were also the winners of the first ever ACC in 2013.

New Swakopmund Fat bike tours Swakopmund is already known as Namibia’s adventure capital and now it offers yet another exciting activity – fat bike tours. Swakopmund Fat Bike Tours offers an unforgettable and unique ecological cycling experience in and around the charming historic town. This activity is suitable for people of all levels of fitness. There are three different tours to choose from. On ‘Scenic Desert Tours’ you take in the silence and breathtaking scenery of the oldest desert in the world while feeling the fresh coastal air and enjoying the thrill of cycling up and down Namibia’s famous dunes. On ‘Low-tide Beach Cruise’ you take your bike out onto the beach, where the fat bike’s balloon-like tyres allow for almost effortless floating over pebbles and sand.

The ‘Old City Swakopmund Tour’ is presented in English and German and gives visitors the chance to cycle down memory lane past some of Swakopmund’s historical buildings and landmarks to convey a feeling of how this charming town started. Fat bike touring is the most ecological way to explore the desert’s delicate habitat, because there is no noise or air pollution and the tyres’ wider contact area means that the tracks are far shallower than even footprints. Book a tour or reserve a fat bike at www.swakopfatbiketours.com or +264 81 395 5813.

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SUMMER 2015 /16

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GENERAL Surface area: 824,268 km² Capital: Windhoek Independence: 21 March 1990 Current president: Hage Geingob Multiparty parliament Democratic constitution Division of power between executive, legislature and judiciary Secular state—freedom of religion (90% Christian) Freedom of the press/media

ENVIRONMENT Nature reserves: 15% of surface area Highest mountain: Brandberg Other prominent mountains: Spitzkoppe, Moltkeblick, Gamsberg Perennial rivers: Orange, Kunene, Okavango, Zambezi and Kwando/ Linyanti/Chobe Ephemeral rivers: Numerous, including Fish, Kuiseb, Swakop and Ugab

Airport, Eros Airport, 46 airstrips Rail network: 2,382 km narrow gauge Telecommunications: 6.2 telephone lines per 100 inhabitants Direct-dialling facilities to 221 countries Mobile communication system: GSM agreements with 117 countries / 255 networks Postal service: affiliated to the Universal Postal Union

SOCIAL INFRASTRUCTURE One medical doctor per 3,650 people Three privately run hospitals in Windhoek with intensive-care units Medical practitioners (world standard) 24-hour medical emergency services

POPULATION

14 vegetation zones 120 species of trees 200 endemic plant species 100 plus species of lichen Living fossil plant: Welwitschia mirabilis

2.3 million Density: 2.2 per km² 400 000 inhabitants in Windhoek (15% of total) Official language: English 14 regions, 13 ethnic cultures 16 languages and dialects Adult literacy rate: 85% Population growth rate: 2.6% Educational institutions: over 1,700 schools, various vocational and tertiary institutions

ECONOMY

FAUNA

FLORA

Main sectors: Mining, fishing, tourism & agriculture Biggest employer: Agriculture (46%) Fastest-growing sector: Tourism Mining: Diamonds, uranium, copper, lead, zinc, magnesium, cadmium, arsenic, pyrites, silver, gold, lithium minerals, dimension stones (granite, marble, blue sodalite) and many semi-precious stones

PHYSICAL INFRASTRUCTURE Roads: 5,450 km tarred, 37,000 km gravel Harbours: Walvis Bay, Lüderitz Main airports: Hosea Kutako International

Venture Publications 2015 www.travelnewsnamibia.com

Big game: Elephant, lion, rhino, buffalo, cheetah, leopard, giraffe 20 antelope species 240 mammal species (14 endemic) 250 reptile species 50 frog species 676 bird species Endemic birds including Herero chat, rockrunner, Damara tern, Monteiro’s hornbill

FOREIGN REPRESENTATION More than 50 countries have Namibian consular or embassy

representation in Windhoek.

TAX AND CUSTOMS All goods and services are priced to include value-added tax of 15%. Visitors may reclaim VAT. Enquiries: Ministry of Finance Tel (+264 61) 23 0773 in Windhoek

MONEY MATTERS Currency: The Namibia Dollar (N$) is fixed to and on par with the SA Rand. The South African Rand is also legal tender.

Foreign currency, international Visa, MasterCard, American Express and Diners Club credit cards are accepted.

DRINKING WATER Most tap water is purified and safe to drink.

Visitors should exercise caution in rural areas.

TRANSPORT Public transport is NOT available to all tourist destinations in Namibia.

There are bus services from Windhoek to Swakopmund as well as Cape Town/ Johannesburg/Vic Falls. Namibia’s main railway line runs from the South African border, connecting Windhoek to Swakopmund in the west and Tsumeb in the north. There is an extensive network of international and regional flights from Windhoek and domestic charters to all destinations.

TIME ZONES Summer time: GMT + 2 hours from the 1st Sunday in September to the 1st Sunday in April. Winter time: GMT + 1 hour from the 1st Sunday in April to the 1st Sunday in September.

ELECTRICITY 220 volts AC, 50hz, with outlets for round three-pin type plugs

www.namibiatourism.com.na

take a break on the road between Windhoek and Swakopmund

Elzanne Erasmus

Text and photographs Ron Swilling

take a break

Journeys are about exploring and discovering. They are crammed with surprises: interesting people, fascinating stories and intriguing places. Instead of racing to your destination, consider slowing down and spicing up your trip with some colourful stops.

Carvings from the Kavango and further afield fill the stalls at Okahandja Woodcarvers Market

The quintessential Namibian gift: a keyring carved from the heart of the makalani fruit

A display of mokoro lines the roadside at the woodcarvers market in Okahandja

T

he journey from Windhoek to Swakopmund is an exciting road trip. Besides having a choice of places to stop at for a break, without too much mileage in between, it’s a mind-boggling route for its remarkable changes in scenery. From the hilly, tree-filled expanse of Windhoek, it transforms entirely as it takes you into the Namib Desert. Intriguing? Absolutely. Enjoyable? For sure.

Stops? Many.

of toasted tramezzinis. Okahandja is a well-known stop for its roadside woodcarvers’ market. Craftsmen, mostly from the Kavango region (an area known for its fine woodwork), have set up shop under the camelthorn trees, selling their handcrafted items. Among the many wooden giraffes, masks and bowls you’ll find an assortment of southern African goods. Take a stroll through the stalls and feel the spirit of Africa.

Woodcarving, makalanis and a good cup of coffee!

Okahandja is one of the places where you are likely to be approached by makalani carvers. Makalani palm trees are abundant in the northern reaches of the country and provide rural people with many gifts. The fronds are woven into baskets and the trees produce a hard fruit. While the thin outer layer is eaten, the large kernel - referred to as vegetable ivory – is carved into keyring pendants, usually etched with animal motifs. Most carvers offer to whittle your name onto the makalani nut while you wait. Makalanis are the quintessential Namibian craft and are small enough to fit easily into your baggage - the perfect gift for family and friends.

Your first stop to the north, across the Swakop River, is Okahandja, just 70 km from the mother city. Veer to the right at the first turn-off to the town. There is a choice of pit-stops here, depending on your taste and available time.

Fill up with fuel, buy some biltong at the Savannah Biltong Shop and enjoy a cup of coffee and a light meal in Brewed Awakenings’ sunny courtyard. German favourites like schnitzel and bratwurst are served, as well as a selection

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take a break

Make a stop at the Ûiba-Ôas Crystal Market for a glittering choice of Namibian gems.

Culinary treats larger than life: the giant mushrooms or ‘omajowa’ sprout enthusiastically from the base of termite hills in the rainy season.

Omajowas & apfelstreusel

From Okahandja, the B2 – the Trans-Kalahari Highway leads westwards to Swakopmund and the coast. Along this 290 km stretch, make a turn at Wilhemstal farm stall for padstal fare: jams, preserves, chutneys, juicy Swakop olives and olive oil, biltong, droëwors and homemade health bread. The farm stall offers breakfast, coffee, sandwiches and their speciality, apfelstreusel – apple crumble!

After the rains at the beginning of the year, this is the area to purchase omajowas, the gargantuan mushrooms which sprout like small umbrellas from the base of termite mounds. Omajowa sellers stand alongside the road around Wilhelmstal, proffering their strange fungal ware.

Fine art, biltong and a leisurely lunch

Karibib, charcterised by mountains and hills speckled with trees, is the site of a marble mine. It is also the place to

Visit renowned artist Anita Steyn at her gallery in Karibib for a fine selection of ceramics and evocative drawings of Namibian landscapes. find Anita Steyn’s Art Gallery on the main road. A talented watercolour painter, Anita is also a multimedia and ceramics maestro and sells creatively decorated and uniquely designed tiles, soap dishes and ceramic wash basins. Make some space in your car for some true Namibian art.

The small town of Usakos follows shortly afterwards.

A popular stop on the far side of town is Namib Oasis Farmstall and Deli. Looking around the shop at their jars of preserves, plaasbrood (farm bread) and pies, I asked the shop-assistant what people like to purchase most. Instantly she replied: “Biltong!” It is also the perfect place to buy toasted sandwiches for the road or enjoy a leisurely lunch in the recently-extended outdoor area.

Magic kingdoms & sparkling gems Keep your eyes peeled. Twenty kilometres after Usakos you will begin to spot the Spitzkoppe Massif, the fairy-tale granite enclave that looks as if it has just materialised from a Tolkien novel. If you have time to explore, it’s a 30 km

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SUMMER 2015 /16

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Paul van Schalkwyk

Spitzkoppe is a magnificent sight to behold during the summer rains.

take a break drive on the gravel. It’s also a good overnight stop if you appreciate a rustic campsite, giant granite boulders that turn gold in the late afternoon sunshine and a twinkling starstudded sky.

The turnoff towards Spitzkoppe and Henties Bay is the site of the Ûiba-Ôas Crystal Market. The Damara words mean ‘Looking for the Life’ or ‘Seeking a livelihood’. Here, a glittering assortment of stones from Spitzkoppe, Brandberg and the Erongo mountains are for sale. The market provides a livelihood for many of the area’s inhabitants, who also appreciate any extra food supplies from passing travellers.

Don’t miss this excellent selection of Namibian stones, displayed against the backdrop of Spitzkoppe.

Welcome to the Namib Desert!

From Usakos the landscape and vegetation begin to change dramatically. The trees become smaller until only small resilient shrubs dot the arid landscape, and then even the shrubs become sparse. Soon, it is a landscape of sand.

Welcome to the Namib Desert!

The turn-off to Goanikontes appears 40 km before Swakopmund for those who want to veer off for tea and cake in the desert oasis, one of the early farmsteads established along the Swakop River. It’s an 18 km drive to Goanikontes from the B2, with the option to continue to the coast on the D1991 and C28 via the moon landscape.

Twenty kilometres before you reach the desert town, you’ll be able to catch a glimpse of this unearthly moon landscape in the distance on your left-hand side. What is most visible, however, is the verdant vein of trees that follows an underground watercourse, running like a bright emerald ribbon through the desert to the coast. This is the ephemeral Swakop River, where produce like olives and asparagus thrive on the brackish river water. If you happen to be driving past on a Saturday morning, then it’s worth turning onto the Swakop River Road, ten kilometres from the town, to purchase some greens at Shalom Farm and to visit some of the other markets along this road that are popping up like flowers in the springtime. If it’s a bit later in the day, Desert Hills, further along the Swakop River road, offers a Saturday lunch in the desert and a range of !nara products from their deli.

Looking ahead to the horizon, you will (more often than not) notice a huge bank of cloud above the sea, shrouding the town in a heavy cloak of mist. You might also find yourself hastily closing the windows to keep the chilly air out of the car. You have reached the auspicious place where the Namib Desert meets the icy Atlantic in a celebration of desert and sea.

So, don a jersey and set off to explore one of the most unusual towns to be found along the southern African coast.

Mooi ry! TNN

Jewels from the earth: intersection of B2 and D1918 to Spitzkoppe/Henties Bay!

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the last frontier khaudum national park Text Elzanne Erasmus Photographs Jaco Venter

On the north-eastern outskirts of this vast land lies one of the last true Namibian wildernesses. Teeming with herds of elephant and roan, with lions meandering about and endangered African wild dogs yapping in the early evening air, Khaudum National Park is a remote, rugged and vastly unexplored utopia.

Generation Wanderlust khaudum national park

K

haudum, formerly known as Bushmanland, was proclaimed a game reserve in 1989 and a national park in 2007, which now encompasses an area of 3 842 km2.

The mostly unfenced surroundings allow wildlife to roam freely beyond the park borders and into and through surrounding conservancies. Khaudum also forms part of the Kavango Zambezi (KaZa) Transfrontier Conservation Area, which links Namibia, Angola, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Botswana in one of the largest conservation initiatives in the world.

The Wildest Wilderness The park consists mainly of sandveld, with some bedrock in areas towards the south-western parts, and is mostly dry year-round.

But there are the occasional years with heavy rainfall when the two ephemeral rivers (or omuramba), the Nhoma in the south and Khaudum in the north, carry water and leave the park lush and green. Pans throughout the park also collect surface water during rainy seasons and provide bounteous drinking water for wildlife herds, which often lasts well into the dry winter months.

Elephant are a popular sighting around waterholes as they enjoy playing in the mud baths. The older dames look on as the young calves chase Meyer’s parrots and roll around getting dirty.

Home to extraordinary numbers of wildlife, Khaudum’s wilderness is the ideal place for avid nature enthusiasts and adventurers to admire large herds of roan antelope, tsessebe, elephant, giraffe, eland, wildebeest and many more. The discerning birder may find southern ground hornbill in the northern woodlands of the park.

The park has 12 official waterholes and two small natural springs, each promising good opportunities for game viewing, especially in the winter months. The park’s isolation and the infrequency of visitors are other factors that lend themselves to create an almost perfect safari experience, despite a few bumps and hiccups in the way, because one thing is for sure… this park is wild!

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Kitted out?

Be prepared for long drives even though distances may seem rather short on your GPS. The Khaudum has little to no infrastructure when it comes to roads and road maintenance. Therefore proper 4x4 vehicles with high clearance and experienced off-road drivers at the helm are a necessity. The two parallel lines of tyre tracks running through the thick Sandveld are tough to negotiate and it takes time to get anywhere during the dry months. During the wet season, some of the tracks may become extremely slippery, so look out for the darker patches of soil and steer clear. Common obstructions are fallen trees and bushes as well as the odd group of five-ton mammals. Both should be approached with great care. If you need to make a stop to

khaudum national park Birding in the bush

The best time for birding in “Bushmanland” is right after a good rainy season. Pans and fields in and around the park play host to some spectacular sightings, inclu­d ing flamingos, ducks, teals, cranes, spur-winged geese, herons and egrets. Keep your eyes peeled for Meyer’s parrot, which enjoys hanging around the waterholes or marula trees. Scour the tall baobab trees for a peep at pearl-spotted owlets. You might also get the chance to tick off black-tailed godwit or African openbill from your lifer list, and of course the wonderfully enigmatic southern ground hornbill.

Khaudum Sightings Checklist:

Elzanne Erasmus

Elephant Roan Antelope Sable Antelope Tsessebe African Wild Dog Giraffe Eland Wildebeest Red Hartebeest Kudu Gemsbok Steenbok Duiker Bat-eared Fox Hyena Lion Leopard Side-striped Jackal Black-backed Jackal Warthog Vervet Monkey Ostrich Aardvark

remove an obstruction such as a tree stump from the path, be quick about it… lions may never be too far off.

Your mandatory plus one The park’s isolation and lack of infrastructure makes it a hardy task for any 4x4 driver, and one that should never be attempted alone. Though many other publications see this as an exaggeration, the Ministry of Environment and Tourism stipulates that no less than two reliable 4x4 vehicles are allowed to venture into the park together.

Make sure that between the two or more vehicles you have enough emergency supplies, including spare tyres, towrope and a repair kit. Entering the park also means that you have to be completely self-sufficient. Though there are two campsites within the park boundaries where water is available you can never be too certain, so make sure that you have ample H20 and enough fuel to complete your journey.

Keep in mind that you will be travelling through thick sand which burns more fuel and that petrol vehicles often use double the amount of fuel under such conditions. Refuelling is only possible at Tsumkwe to the south of the park and at Bagani, Divundu and Rundu to the north and northwest.

Khaudum Survival Tips • • •

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•

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Make sure you have a reliable 4x4 vehicle with high clearance A minimum of two vehicles must travel together at all times Be completely self-sufficient when it comes to food, water and firewood, make sure you have enough food supplies for three days per person as well as at least 100 litres of water per vehicle Ensure that you have enough fuel to last you your journey and take note that the difficult driving conditions will burn fuel more rapidly Take along extra supplies such as towropes and sand sheets, because it is very likely that you will get stuck Ensure that you have enough spare tyres and tyre repair kits as the prospect of multiple punctures is highly possible Be well prepared and organized as this always makes for a more enjoyable camping expedition And most of all, be ready to really rough it!

Khaudum National Park is not for the faint of heart and entering the park with the right mindset is crucial to having a spectacular time in this wildest of places.

WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM

Enough talk, let’s rough it!

TNN recently sat down with avid Namibian traveller, Jaco Venter, who braved the Khaudum wilds during August. Here is his ideal travel itinerary with some much needed tips for survival!

Jaco’s five Day Khaudum Adventure Day 1: Set off from Windhoek heading north. There are many interesting stopovers worth exploring along the 780km route to Khaudum. Check out the Kavango woodcarver’s market in Okahandja and grab a freshly baked brötchen at the Dekker Bakery in Martin Neib Avenue. On your way toward Otjiwarongo, spot the twin peak Omatako Mountains on your left. If you’re up for a bit of a detour, the Cheetah Conservation Fund is just 42km outside of town. It is a wonderful conservation effort and cheetah rehabilitation centre. Your next stop, Otavi, is a good place for a quick lunch. Visit the Camel Inn Restaurant and Bar for the best slapchips (fries) you’ll ever have! About 151km east of Otavi, passing through Grootfontein, is Roy’s Camp where you can spend your first night. The campsites are equipped with hot showers and cooking and washing facilities.

BUSHFIRES

Bushfires are a frequent occurrence during late winter when it is extremely dry. During the months of July to September, bushfires in Botswana also leave the air in the park hazy. Take caution when camping in the park during this season as the slightest spark or flint from a campfire could cause a fire, engulfing the park and destroying habitats.

khaudum national park Day 2: Have an early breakfast and let your day’s adventures begin!

Tsumkwe, the gateway to Khaudum, is a quick two-hour trip via tar road from Roy’s. Here you can book an excursion to visit a traditional San community or just stock up on supplies at the Tsumkwe General Dealer and fill your tanks, as this is the last time you’ll be able to do this for quite some distance.

From here it is a 60km trek to Sikereti, your first campsite inside the park. You will enter through the southern park gate.

The park entrance fee is N$10 for Namibian residents, N$ 30 for SADC residents and N$ 40 for foreign visitors. The gravel road to the campsite is reasonably well-maintained, the last such road you will encounter for the duration of your stay in Khaudum… Set up camp here after using your remaining daylight hours to check out some waterholes, such as Soncana or Tsoanafontein.

Day 3: Spend the day exploring the Nhoma Omuramba and the surrounding waterholes. According to Jaco the southern part of the park yields the most wildlife sightings during the dry winter months. Be prepared to encounter large herds of 20 to 30 roan. His group even came across a herd of more than 50! Elephant are also a popular sighting around waterholes as they enjoy playing in the mud baths. The older dames look on

as the young calves chase Meyer’s parrots and roll around getting dirty. Your third day should be a relaxed and easygoing one. Jaco says that on his trip lion tracks could be seen at many of the waterholes but they had too little time to leisurely explore or have a “stakeout”. So, waiting patiently in your vehicle at a waterhole that looks promising might yield spectacular results. Make your way back to Sikereti Camp before dark and spend another night under the Namibian stars.

Day 4: Make the long arduous trip across the park to the northern campsite. Unfortunately the road between the two campsites is terrible. You won’t be able to travel more than 20-30 km/h so be patient and take it slow and enjoy the wonderful, truly wild place you find yourself in. Along the way keep to the eastern route that passes Baikiea, Tari Kora, Leeupan and Tsau. This route has less sand and promises more wildlife sightings. The northern campsite was recently privatised. Khaudum Campsite has 6 sites under camelthorn trees, overlooking the beautiful Xaudum Omuramba. Each site has a braai area, shading and its own private bathroom facilities with warm water. Booking in advance is essential. For more information on the campsite visit www.travelnewsnamibia.com/news/news-camping-inkhaudum/.

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The park's northern campsite is now privately owned, recently renovated and open for bookings.

Be cautious when exiting your vehicle to remove obstacles in the road, lions may never be too far off...

Both you and your bakkie will need a good scrub after this adventure

Day 5:

The roads in the park are poorly maintained. You won’t be able to travel more than 20-30 km/h, so be patient and take it slow.

did you know?

On the way to the southern entrance of the park you can take a 3km detour to the famous Dorsland Baobab, where the Dorsland Trekkers set up camp in the late 1800s.

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By now you have well and truly immersed yourself in the rugged and rough wilderness that is Khaudum National Park. Spend your morning exploring the Xaudum Omuramba, hopeful to catch glimpses of African wild dog or even a leopard. After all your hard work and days spent bobbing up and down in your car seat over corrugated thick sand roads, you deserve a break - don’t you think? After you've checked that all your car's parts are still where they should be and fixed those punctures in your tyres, laze away your last afternoon in this amazing wilderness, admiring the view from your camping chair, Gin and Tonic in hand. Spend the night reminiscing around the camp fire with your fellow adventurers who made it through the wilderness with you.

Khaudum Campsite For bookings and queries send an email to reservations@khaudumcamping.com

khaudum national park Tell the world I’m going home The last part of your journey out of the wildest corner of Namibia is the most frustrating. Expect to spend at least 3 hours navigating the 60km route to the northern gate of the park. Once you are out and “back to civilization” though, you’re home free.

From here you can either head back to Windhoek or follow the adventurous spirit that was ignited on the roughest 4x4 quest you’ve attempted to date and head into the Kavango and Zambezi regions to explore this amazing country even further. If you’re not up for it though, don’t be disheartened. You just made it past the last frontier, and you and your bakkie probably need a good wash… besides, there’s always next time. TNN

Namibia Exclusive

Namibia Exclusive is a new Namibian lodge group established by Vitor Azevedo. It consists of four new lodges in four spectacular and exclusive areas of Namibia: Sorris Sorris on the northern bank of the Ugab River in Damaraland, Omatendeka in the Etendeka Valley near Palmwag, Sheya Shuushona on the northern border of Etosha National Park and Xaudum inside Khaudum National Park. Each lodge brings with it the wonder of the environment that surrounds it and offers the ultimate in Namibian luxury accommodation. Their first lodge, Sorris Sorris, opened in August 2015.

Xaudum Lodge

Situated in the isolated Khaudum National Park, Xaudum is the only lodge in this perfectly wild corner of the country, particularly enticing to avid wilderness lovers and adventurers. Xaudum’s isolation creates a complete sense of freedom and it is so remote it will make you feel as if you have stepped 1000 years back into the past. The lodge will welcome its first guests in April 2016.

You can make your booking for Xaudum Lodge at www.namibia-exclusive.com.

www.scenic-air.com

ONDILI LODGES & ACTIVITIES IN NAMIBIA Bookings - Namibia Travel Consultants Tel (+264 61) 24 0020 | Fax (+264 61) 30 4290 | www.ondili.com

reservations@homestead.com.na www.deserthomesteadlodge.com

reservations@homestead.com.na www.deserthomesteadoutpost.com

reservations@redduneslodge.com www.redduneslodge.com reservations@hohensteinlodge.com www.hohensteinlodge.com

reservations@teufelskrallenlodge.com www.teufelskrallenlodge.com

Kalahari dreaming with

Bernd Wasiolka

Text Annabelle Venter Photographs Bernd Wasiolka

PHotographic feature

The Kalahari is a vast and ancient desert system stretching across southern Africa that captured the imagination of a small boy in Bochum, Germany late in the last century. The word itself had a magical ring to it for Bernd Wasiolka, and it was a place he just had to come and explore for himself. A series of detours in life led him eventually to visit this place of his dreams in 2000, and f inally to come and live and work there for three years, during which time he discovered a passion for wildlife photography.

PHotographic feature A Kalahari Dream This book is a culmination of those trips and years spent observing wildlife and it’s environment for a doctoral thesis as well as for pure enjoyment. What a lucky combination! But as it’s said, you create your own luck. The Kalahari he captures covers not only the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park which straddles South Africa and Botswana, but also large tracks of surrounding farmlands where his studies were focused. Here for his PhD, he studied the impact of land use on animal diversity in the southern Kalahari. 700 days of patiently waiting for the right light and animal activities went into gathering the images for this book.

Bernd’s love of light shines through this work and I sense that he particularly enjoys the twilight cusp hours. Some images are so realistically dark that you have to tilt the page to fully appreciate the moment. Almost as if one were to adjust one’s eyes to the twilight. He appreciates a holistic view of the Kalalahari enjoying the blue skies, wild stormy weather, changing seasons, small creatures and plants and not just the obvious big cats for which most people travel to this area.

200 pages packed with a detailed photographic record of life in the Kalahari in a landscape layout, awaits the reader. Bernd has divided the book into sections humorously entitled appetizers, main course and dessert as though one were sitting down to a delicious feast, and the Kalahari doesn’t disappoint. The main course in turn, highlights some of the daily antics and rituals of the Kalahari’s inhabitants. Every image has a caption, some humorous others informative. As a photographer I always want to know where an image was taken while viewing the image, but perhaps I am alone in this preference. At the end of the book there is however a reference-guide to each image with location and camera details for those who wish to learn more.

Bernd has certainly captured the essence of the Kalahari in this book, showing the rich diversity of life in this parched and apparently barren land, yet so full of life. Glossing over the thumbnail images at the end, the orange sand dunes, blue skies, and variety of life really sum up this unique landscape.

Bernd has recently made the switch from scientist to full time wildlife photographer and is now exploring Etosha in northern Namibia. He uses Canon equipment but stresses that this is not as important as composition, capturing the critical moment, experimenting with light, breaking the rules, and above all an understanding of your subject. TNN

www.wildphotolife.com www.wildphotolifeblog.wordpress.com www.facebook.com/Bernd.Wasiolka.Wildphotolife

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PHotographic feature

About the Photographer Bernd Wasiolka is a wildlife photographer with a background in animal ecology. Now based in Namibia, Bernd has travelled the world photographing the wilderness and animals of far off countries in Asia, Australia and Central America.

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TNN goes fishing

with Cymot Photographs Danie & Annelize Ferreira

Namibia’s shoreline is one long stretch of beach, 1 572 km to be exact. Here and there a rocky shore or 100-m-high dunes interrupt the clean stretch of sand, but mostly… it’s beach. It is no wonder then that when, on any given day, you venture down to the coast you will see the small blurred f igures of men with long rods in hand through the early morning mist that is drifting inland from the Atlantic. Because where there is beach as beautiful and clear as Namibia’s, and ocean waters as rich and full of life as the Atlantic with its cold Benguela current, you can be sure there will be f ishermen casting their lines.

Namibia is a f isherman’s dream!

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If you enjoy spending hours on end on beautiful beaches with the soft roar of the ocean waves for company and the thrill of a nip at the end of your line sending adrenalin coursing through your veins, Namibia’s shoreline is the place for you. Get your bait, hook, line and sinker ready and cast away.

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very year thousands of anglers descend on the Namibian coast in the hope of hauling out a whopper, the big one, the real McCoy! That one whose picture will have pride of place on the wall back home. With sought-after species such as kabeljou (kob), galjoen, steenbras or blacktail up for the catch, they throw their lines time and again, waiting for that special one to come along, hoping above hope that the nip at the end of the line isn’t a dreaded barbel…

Angling along Namibia’s coast is possible all year, but November to March is widely thought to be the peak season, as summer brings with it warmer water and calmer seas.

Experts say that the best time to cast a line is one week prior to full moon or one week after, a time in which tides are at their optimal levels. One of the biggest debates between Namibian hobby fishermen is location, location, location.

However, Henties Bay seems to be regarded as the hub of the Namibian fishing community, and angling is indeed the most popular pastime in this little coastal town, about an hour’s drive north of Swakopmund. Some swear by fishing spots north of Henties Bay, others south, but no hole can guarantee a good day’s catch. Timing seems to be everything when it comes to a tight line and I suspect that sometimes luck has a great deal to do with it, too. Nevertheless there are a number

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Marine angling regulations

• Anglers must be in possession of a fishing permit, obtainable from the offices of the Ministry of Fisheries and Marine Resources in Walvis Bay, Swakopmund and Lüderitz and/or the Henties Bay Hanganeni Fishing Centre. Permits cost N$14.00 per month, or N$168.00 a year.

• The daily bag limit is ten, comprising one or more of the following species: blacktail (dassie), galjoen, kabeljou (kob) and West Coast steenbras. Minimum sizes are: blacktail 25 cm, galjoen 30 cm, kabeljou 40 cm, West Coast steenbras 40 cm. Other daily limits are 30 barbel, 20 snoek and one shark.

• Anglers may not take more than two kob longer than 70 cm each and two West Coast steenbras exceeding 65 cm each (both measurements including the head and tail) in one day.

• The open season for rock lobster is from 1 November to 30 April. The minimum carapace length is 65 mm.

The daily bag limit is seven and no more than seven whole rock lobsters may be transported at a time.

• Per vehicle, each angler in possession of a permit may transport three times the daily bag limit, but not more than 10 of each of the following: Kob, steenbras, galjoen and blacktail. All four of these species must be in a whole state, head and tail included, in order to determine the size.

• Worms may not be used as bait, and red bait may not be cut or in any other way dislodged from the substrate. Only red bait that has been washed up on the beach may be collected.

• There are also limitations on the quantities of several marine resources that may be harvested for own use without a fishing permit.

• Fishing for recreational purposes is allowed only in the following areas: Terrace Bay and Torra Bay; from the Ugab River to Walvis Bay (excluding the Cape Cross area); Pelican Point to Sandwich Harbour; from the northern limits of Lüderitz Bay to Große Bucht; and from Pomona Island to the Orange River.

Torra Bay and Terrace Bay

If you plan to visit these two sites you need to make a reservation with Namibia Wildlife Resorts at reservations@nwr.com.na.

NO day visits are allowed.

Namibia hosts a number of annual fishing competitions, most of which are held in Henties Bay. Among them: •

• • •

the Cymot Corporate Fishing Competition in November, which is open to any business wishing to enter a team the Henties Hengelfees in August the Tri-Development International Angling competition in September the Penguin Bonanza Angling competition in December.

of very popular fishing spots both north and south of Henties Bay. But if you prefer to steer clear of the crowds it is a great perk to be able to spot a good hole for yourself. And always remember that one of the biggest faux pas in fishing is to stop your car and cast a line right next to someone else. They got there first… go find your own spot!

Some of the most popular angling spots along the coast include Paaltjies, on the northern border of Sandwich Harbour, and the beach between Walvis Bay and Swakopmund. To the north of Swakopmund is the Dorob National Park, which stretches all the way to the Ugab River. Shore fishing is allowed in the park. Famous fishing spots along the shoreline between Swakopmund and Henties Bay are Mile 8, Mile 14, Die Drom just north of Wlotsksbaken, Bennie se Rooi Lorrie and Jakkalsputs. There are many more holes to the north of Henties, such as Sarah se Gat, Popeye, Mile 72 and Mile 108.

Further north of these popular fishing destinations lies the Skeleton Coast Park, a conservation area. Torra Bay and Terrace Bay are two highly sought-after angling settlements within the park. Managed by Namibia Wildlife Resorts, both have camping sites with toilets and showers. In Terrace Bay accommodation is also available in chalets with dinner, bed and breakfast. Families book months in advance to secure their campsite or chalet at these angling hotspots and often stay throughout the entire holiday season.

cacti tnninvasive goes fishing

Don’t forget!

Namibia’s weather along the coast can be capricious, so don’t forget to pack • your hat • sunscreen • warm clothing for nippy misty mornings • sunglasses • sea sickness medication for offshore angling Rock and surf angling may well be the most popular form of angling in Namibia, but many tour operators also specialize in offshore fishing excursions or shark fishing. Namibia is among the few countries in the world involved in the conservation of shark species. Though shark fishing is allowed, it is done exclusively on a catch and release basis, which means that all sharks must be returned to the sea unharmed. When angling for shark you may be lucky enough to pull out a Spotted Gulley Shark (Spotty), cow shark, hound shark or even a Bronze Whaler (Bronzy). Bronzies can reach weights of up to 190kg and dragging one out will be the fight of your lifetime!

So if you enjoy spending hours on end on beautiful beaches with the soft roar of the ocean waves for company and the thrill of a nip at the end of your line sending adrenalin coursing through your veins, Namibia’s shoreline is the place for you.

Get your bait, hook, line and sinker ready and cast away.

Stywe lyne! TNN

Remember to stock up on all your angling needs at Cymot before hitting the shoreline!

HEAD OFFICE & WAREHOUSE 15 Newcastle Street PO Box 726 Windhoek Tel: (+264 61) 295 6000 info@cymot.com • www.cymot.com

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roughing it Pushing the limits for a species on the brink Text Elzanne Erasmus Main photographs Chris Botha

for rhinos

What do you do when something as important as an entire species is standing at the edge of a cliff ready to tumble at any given second? Do you stand by and watch or do you rally, roar, riot, rush, run and ride to save them?

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here are less than 5000 black rhinos left in the world. The Kunene Region of north-western Namibia is home to the largest free-roaming rhino population on earth. The harsh landscape and increase in poaching has placed their survival under imminent threat. With organized crime syndicates causing numbers to dwindle, the protection of these rare and majestic creatures is of crucial importance. They aren’t as tough as their skin makes them seem. They’re not bulletproof or immune to torture. This is their last true stronghold. Their bunker. And it’s under attack.

The Facts

During the 1970s an increase in poaching and a period of severe drought lead to a steep decline in the desert-adapted species of the region, including the black rhino. As there were no anti-poaching systems in place at the time and conservation efforts in the region were negligible to nonexistent, the population of black rhinos reached a drastic and dangerous low. And so, in 1982, in an effort to save the species from the brink of extinction, Save the Rhino Trust (SRT) was created. The trust applied an unconventional but effective method of anti-poaching. They hired the poachers!

By employing members of the community who were believed to be

at the forefront of the poaching activities and providing them with more secure livelihoods by working as wildlife guards, SRT enjoyed tremendous success. Today, after 30 years of interminable efforts, the black rhino population has rebounded, but the threat has never completely subsided and criminal organisations are once again on the move, back with a vengeance.

At the forefront of this never-ending fight are the SRT rangers, teams of five individuals who track and monitor rhino behaviour and movement and whose presence acts as a poaching deterrent. Five such teams work in shifts of 21 days to cover an area of more than one million hectares, from the northern bank of the Ugab River, all the way to the Kunene River on the border with Angola in the north. An almost impossible task. Rangers are equipped with no more than they can physically carry. Though water and food supplies are replenished every 4-5 days, the rangers must survive the unforgiving climate of Damaraland, with temperatures often reaching way above 40°C, for three weeks on end. Though one of the members of each team is a member of NAMPOL and carries a weapon, the dangers of encountering ruthless armed poachers are all too real. A tough job done by tough men in order to save a vital slice of Namibia’s natural legacy.

But why do they have to do it alone?

André de Jager

ride for rhinos

A call to action

The sun was still low on the horizon as they made their way over a rocky hill. Despite the early hour, temperatures were already reaching the mid-30s and a smouldering day was imminent in this wild corner of the world. They pedalled forth through the October heat, over rock-strewn foothills and thick river sand, back towards the campsite, where they would savour the shade and cold beverages and tend to the scrapes and bruises sustained along the day’s route.

So there they were, 20 mountain-bikers in the harsh desert heat and inhospitable environment of the Palmwag Concession in Damaraland, calmly discussing self-healing bicycle tyres, upcoming races and what not. They were there for a number of reasons. They were on a cycling safari through the beautiful and enigmatic natural environs of Damaraland. They were there to test their mountain-biking prowess. They were there to meet new people and make friends. They were there to have fun. But most of all, they were there to make a contribution and play their part in the fight to save Namibia’s rhinos.

On October 24th, 2015 the group of 20 mountain-biking and conservation enthusiasts set off on a 4-day cycle safari with a crew of 15.

The goal of the tour was to help raise awareness of the struggles faced by SRT in their efforts to protect the black rhino in the Kunene Region as well as to raise funds with which to purchase a new vehicle to use in their rhino protection endeavours. The riders came from all walks of life, different business backgrounds and most had never met before.

Did you know?

95% of the desert subspecies of black rhino known as Diceros bicornis bicornis are found within Namibia’s borders.

Bouncing back

Between 1970 and 1992, the black rhino population suffered a 96% decrease, with total numbers dipping as low as around 2,400. Today, thanks to on-going conservation efforts and the wildly successful Rhino Custodian Programme established by the Ministry of Environment and Tourism, the species has been saved from near extinction.

The RMB Namibia Ride for Rhinos cycle tour was the culmination of months of planning and hard work and the collaboration of like-minded proudly Namibian companies, who each recognised the need for action from community members who are not normally involved in conservation activities. The idea for the ride was the brainchild of the team at Venture Publications and came from the realisation that, though we have been partnering with Save the Rhino Trust through our magazines for more than 20 years, we had never been able to assist in any tangible way except writing about them and creating awareness. Something needed to be done to rally the right group of people - people who had influence in Namibian society, people who had access to resources and were willing to help bring about change. We knew we weren’t going to be able to do it alone and contacted the leaders in each field. Logistical assistance was supplied by Wilderness Safaris, who manage the concession area. They supplied vehicles and guides, and set up a rugged bush camp in what seemed like the middle of nowhere. With a fantastic financial contribution that covered tour costs, RMB Namibia jumped on board as the tour’s name sponsor. CYMOT Namibia contributed

White or black? What is the difference between a white and black rhino: White rhinos are usually larger then black rhinos and have a more pronounced hump on the back of their necks. Their eating habits differ, as white rhinos are grazers whereas black rhinos are browsers and prefer to feed from bushes and trees. This distinction leads to a number of different physical traits: black rhinos have smaller heads and a hooked front lip which helps them feed off branches, white rhinos have a wide front lip which is perfect for grazing on grass.

Did you know?

There are only four northern white rhinos left in the world, only one of which is male. This male is unfortunately past its reproductive age. Is this the end of a species?

Do not speak of a rhino when there is no tree nearby – African Proverb

cycling products, T-shirts and technical MTB support. Dr Werner du Plessis joined to tend to bumps and bruises and last, but certainly not least, were Miguel and Samuel, our two extraordinary chefs from Namibia Exclusive, who forever changed our perceptions of what can and can’t be cooked on an open fire in the middle of the wilderness.

A feast of a time

Venison steak with red wine sauce, dark chocolate mousse, lamb on the spit, crème brulée, a whole lot of different potatoes and the cherry on top: Chef Miguel’s torta frita, or fried cake. As impossible as it may seem, two men in pristine chef’s whites, toque and all, made these dishes, and many more, on a braai in the middle of the bush. Paired with wines from Rust en Vrede, Guardian Peak, Neuras and Beyerskloof and some exceptionally good company around

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the campfire meant each evening at the Ride for Rhinos camp was truly special.

Days spent on the mountain-bike, over rough terrain and technically difficult tracks, yielded passionate discussion from the riders each evening. The landscape was stunningly beautiful, the nature pristine and their saddleback safari through the Damaraland wilderness was a life-changing experience. Elephant, zebra and gemsbok made for wonderful companions along the routes. Each water stop, or rather Windhoek Lager stop, turned into animated debates on who fell where and how hard or who spent more time pushing their bike than on the actual saddle. When they weren’t on their bikes, laughter was the only sound that interrupted the serene landscape, replaced by some loud snores from one or two tents late at night…

AndrĂŠ de Jager

Chefs Miguel and Samuel demonstrates that there is no limit to the extravagant possibilties on the menu, even in the bush...

Rhino Horn Fact File:

• Black rhino have two horns, which grow continually from the skin at their base throughout their life (like human fingernails).

• Rhinos from different areas can have horns of different shapes, and sizes also vary.

• The shape of the horn also differs between sexes: males tend to have thicker horns, while females often have longer and thinner ones.

• The horn consists of thousands of compressed hair-like strands of keratin which make it extremely hard and tough, but it can be broken or split during fighting.

• The front (anterior) horn is longer than the rear (posterior) horn, averaging at around 50 cm long.

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At night, when the dust, and sometimes blood, of the day’s adventures had been washed off, the group was joined by the most important members of the initiative, the SRT rangers. Around the soft glow of the campfire they told us of their adventures, and misadventures, and also of their reality. They told of 21 days spent in the harsh Namibian sun, following these prehistoric creatures and keeping track of where their spoor crossed with that of an intruder’s.

These campfire talks unveiled the truth. They unveiled facts and figures and harsh realities of community involvement in the poaching syndicates and a fight that sometimes seems futile. When your terrain is inaccessible and your community unreliable, the task comes to seem impossible.

The men and women sitting around the campfire listening intently had spent four days exerting themselves through this rough and rugged terrain. They now understood the difficulty first-hand, and it wasn’t long before the first promise of aid was made, with many more the follow. If the idea of the tour was to immerse ourselves completely, and to simulate what these rangers have to endure on a daily basis, I think we succeeded.

After four days of pedalling through the searing heat, camping in the dust and altogether roughing it for rhinos, we understood the tremendous task at hand.

ride for rhinos

Did you know?

The description white rhino is the result of a linguistic error in which the original Afrikaans name for the subspecies was wyd-lip renoster aka wide-lipped rhino. The Afrikaans wyd sounding similar to the English word “white” caused this lost-in-translation animal to be named the white rhino.

Accordingly, its counterpart was named the black rhino.

Their names have nothing to do with their colour.

Save the Rhinos Trust's new ride: a Toyota Land Cruiser to aid in their rhino protection initiatives

The sun also rises

“Never be daunted”, said Ernest Hemingway in his classic The Sun Also Rises. He must surely have been speaking of rhinos and not Spanish bulls, imploring the world not to give up hope.

Because one thing is for sure, the task is certainly daunting. So where do you start? Do you educate the masses on the true medicinal quality of rhino horn, explaining that it is no different than chewing your own fingernails? Do you get the army and legal system involved and throw money towards arrests, rewards and prosecution? Do you back the school of thought rallying for the legalization of rhino horn? Or do you do your best to help the dedicated individuals working day and night in the field to deter the poaching epidemic? No matter what our approach, action needs to be taken. The sun will one day rise The RMB Namibia Ride for Rhinos is set to be an annual event in aid of the Save the Rhino Trust on a society that works together to protect its natural resources and sees the worth in its pristine beauty. Until that day, each For more information on or to contribute to this amazing initiative individual willing and able must be prepared to rough it for the visit www.rideforrhinos.com.na cause… they won’t make it without you. TNN

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B OTS W A N A

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K E N YA

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NAMIBIA

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RW A N DA

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S E YC H E L LE S

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SOUTH AFRICA

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Z I M B A BW E

Wilderness Safaris strives to ensure that southern Africa’s most pristine wilderness and wildlife areas are conserved while delivering a wonderful experience for guests through its camps and safaris and sharing the benefits of tourism with local communities. In Namibia, our camps take in the country’s most beautiful places, from the enormous dunes of Sossusvlei to the unique wildlife of the Skeleton Coast, and the stark beauty of Damaraland. Be a part of rhino conservation at Palmwag or visit one of the most remote places on Earth at Serra Cafema on the Kunene River.

E: info@wilderness.com.na

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Namibian journey D A A N V I L J O E N W I N D H O E K

Sun Karros Daan Viljoen is a stylish yet relaxed lodge a mere 20km from Windhoek. Located inside the Daan Viljoen Game Park a perfect start or end destination for your safari.

We offer overnight options to all nature enthusiasts be it on a comfortable camp site for the outdoor adventurer or in a modern stylish chalet for the nature lover enjoying the fine comforts in life.

A visit to the Daan Viljoen Game Park is a must when passing through Windhoek. Day visitors welcome to visit our Boma Restaurant.

Central Reservation Office: +264 833 232 444 Lodge direct: +264 61 232 393 Email: reservations@sunkarros.com

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TNN SHOPPING

1. Okahandja Mbangura Woodcarvers Market

Compiled by Sanet van Zijl

Namibia is brimful of craft markets and you’ll be sure to find many of them on your travels throughout the country. Keep an eye open as you enter some of the small towns, as craft markets are usually found there. There are also monthly and annual markets to check out. Most of them offer something a little different from the community craft markets, but no doubt all of them will provide you with something special to take home!

2. Ûiba-Ôas Crystal Market This market is situated at the Spitzkoppe turnoff along the B2 between Usakos and Swakopmund. For over a decade the market consisted of only a few stands run by hardy, small-scale miners, until in September 2010 it was endorsed and inaugurated as a proper facility by the Namibian

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This craft market is Okahandja’s best known tourist attraction. Woodcarvers from all over, and as far as the Kavango Region of north-eastern Namibia, who practice their ancient skills come here to sell their goods. Since wood is not resistant to the wear and tear of time, wood sculptures survive less well than other forms of art and are therefore an important hidden element in the art history of many cultures. The wood-and-thatch market is situated next to the main road at the town’s entrance and exit. Choose from a wide variety of hand-carved wooden artefacts such as animals, bowls or jewellery boxes.

Government in conjunction with the European Union and the Rossing Foundation. You’ll find an impressive collection of semi-precious stones, crystals and minerals at this market.

Many people believe that crystals have healing powers.

Whether or not you agree, they’re always a pretty sight, especially when the light passes through them. The market is open 7 days a week from 7:00 – 19:00.

shopping 3. Vineta Market Swakopmund If you’re looking for an alternative Saturday shopping experience, Vineta Market is the place to go. Entrepreneurs who cannot afford shop rental and marketing expenses have the opportunity to display their goods here. The marketers come from all over, even as far as Otjiwarongo! You’ll find an array of homemade goods, baked treats, plants and books, to name a few. The market takes place on the last Saturday of each month in front of Woermann Brock Vineta from 8:30 – 14:00.

Contact Ronel for further info at 081 1410434

4. Tulongeni Craft Market If you’re on your way to or from Etosha on the B1 south of Ondangwa, you can’t miss the small and brightly painted Tulongeni Craft Market, which is a formal Owambo community craft centre. Women from the Onenongo Village use their knowledge and skills to make pots from clay that they collect from the oshanas (flood plains). These pots can be bought at the market as well as a good range of wooden stools, superbly crafted baskets and other items. Selecting a basket means you take home a piece of Owambo tradition. Baskets still play a big role in homesteads as implements to separate grain, as storage and portable containers and platters to eat from. The market is situated 85km south of Ondangwa in Omuthiya.

5. Windhoek City Market A new addition to the Namibian events calendar is the monthly Windhoek City Market. This is a food, wine and goods market that the whole family can enjoy. If you find yourself in Windhoek during December you should go to the Christmas Tasting Festival at the United Sport Grounds.

Tickets can be bought through Computicket. Certain traders will offer free tastings that range from wine and cheese to ice cream and much more. You can buy lots of interesting knickknacks such as jewellery, art and handmade gifts. For more on the WCM and the next market dates see their Facebook page at www.facebook.com/windhoekcitymarket.

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foodies

Katutura’s Fresh Food

Markets Text & Photographs Christie Keulder

A

few weeks ago I enlisted a colleague and friend as my wingman and guide for a trip to a few of Katutura’s food markets. I wanted to explore the ingredients and try some of the local produce.

Let me point out that unlike many of the African markets I have visited elsewhere, Windhoek’s markets are well regulated and as a result quite clean.

Our first market was Olyeeta Open Market. Here I met Amelia who makes Oshikundu and sells the dry ingredients of this nutritious traditional drink: sorghum, mahangu (millet) and mahangu husks. She also offers dried Ombidi, a type of wild spinach that grows around the fields in northern Namibia.

Amelia says she only stocks traditional mahangu which she obtains from suppliers in the North, some 800 km away.

On the way back to the car I noticed a young man at the kapana (strips of grilled meat) stands who dipped his meat into a little bowl with a greenish fluid before eating it. I got interested. “What is that?” I asked Veikko. “It’s bile”, he smiled.

“But why?” I’d never seen anybody do this before. Ever. “Why would anyone in their right mind dip perfectly good meat into bile?” I could tell that Veikko was enjoying my perplexity.

“They say it is a good cure for a hangover”, he explained. I was dumbstruck, to say the least.

I can’t vouch for the benefits of bile as a cure for a hangover, but if you are brave enough - try it and let me know. I am not trying it, that’s all I know.

The next market, Tukondjeny (meaning “let’s work hard”), was slightly larger.

Amelia with the dry ingredients needed for making the traditional drink, Oshikundu.

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A young lady walked over and started talking to me. I immediately noticed that her accent wasn’t Namibian. It turned out that she was from somewhere in Central Africa. She took me to her friend’s stall, which didn’t stock anything I am familiar with. Green leafy vegetables I have never seen. “It’s kovi”, she said. More commonly known as collard greens, the Brassica oleracea plant is related to cabbage and broccoli. The two women grow them in their backyard garden and sell freshly picked leaves for N$5 per bunch.

They also showed me dried cassava. Not grown locally, though, they get them from ‘back home’.

Freshly harvested Kovi (Brassica oleracea) at Tukondjeny Market

I asked how they source their vegetables. She just smiled and showed me the fufu they make from the dried cassava. The dried cassava is pounded to a fine powder to which water is added to form a stiff porridge. In Ghana, where fufu is a staple, they pound plantains together with the cassava.

Veikko wanted me to try grilled tripe, or matangala as it is known locally (although some pronounce it matangara).

Given that tripe is quite tough it has to be cooked for a long time before it makes its way to the grill.

Therefore we had no luck with tripe. It was only mid-morning and the tripe was not ready yet.

Fat cakes at the Oshetu Community Open Market

By lunchtime we hit the last market on our list.

The Oshetu Community Open Market (Oshetu meaning “it’s ours”) at the old Single Quarters.

The queues at the kapana stands left no doubt that Namibians are meat eaters. Period.

And that the kapana sellers are the real tough men of the markets. Operating in teams of two or more, one is responsible for cutting and chopping the meat, while the other takes care of the grilling and selling. Salt and chilli spice are offered in empty beer cartons for the customers to dip their meat into. Do not ask these guys for extra meat or discounts. They can kill by merely looking at you.

In the end we finally found tripe and bought a few pieces. It is good, really good, especially with the chilli spice.

After sampling a “Wambo cake” made from sweet dough and baked in a tuna can, it was time to dodge the bullets of fat and splinters of bone flying from the meat cutters’ tables and go home.

Kapana sellers at Oshetu Community Open Market

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Reflect, or maybe take a nap.

Namibia, we have so much to be proud of. TNN

generation wanderlust

From Bush to Beach

Elzanne Erasmus

Text Elzanne Erasmus

generation wanderlust

When you’re curious you find lots of interesting things to do –

Walt Disney

Elzanne Erasmus

Blessed are the curious, for they shall have adventures

I hate wearing shoes. Which is why, if I think of the 2015 that was, all my favourite memories involve sand between my toes. But wanting to be barefoot is tricky if you live in the city. People tend to give you some looks and can be very ‘judgy’, which is why our group of Wanderlusters rarely spend a weekend in town. By now you’ve followed us to the far-off reaches of Namibia on our shoestring budget trips. You’ve chilled with us in the rapids at Popa Falls, climbed the highest dune in the world at Sossusvlei and been amazed by the 6000 year-old rock paintings at Twyfelfontein. If you haven’t, then you have some extra reading to do! Walt Disney said a magical thing once: “When you’re curious you find lots of interesting things to do.” Well, guess what… Namibia is the ultimate wonderland for curious young adventurers…who hate to wear shoes.

You’ll find me in the woods

So you’re ready to be an adventurer and spend more time breathing in fresh air than learning the name of the newest Kardashian. Follow me! Step one: get outside. And I’m not talking walk-into-your-backyard outside. No. There are tons of amazing wild places to explore throughout Namibia at low cost and with high reward. A weekend in the bush is the perfect quick fix to your city-living blues. From Windhoek there are a number of really cool day trip destinations to choose from. Head about an hour east of the city to N/a’an ku sê for an awesome day of hanging out with new friends.

Join the N/a’an ku sê Cheetah Walk or Carnivore Feeding Tour and get up close and personal with some amazing animals

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that are part of their rehabilitation programs. You can also get your San skills on at the Ancient Skills Academy, where San groups from the Nyae Nyae Conservancy display their cultural heritage and skills to visitors. Keep your eyes peeled on www.staytoday.com.na for regular specials. Another option is to take the short drive to Elisenheim Guest Farm, 15 km north of town, and hop on a horse at Equitrails Namibia for a sundowner ride. For more information visit www.equitrails.org.

If you have a little more time, say an entire weekend, I would highly recommend the following excursions. Two hours north of Windhoek lies Erindi Private Game Reserve with over 70 000 hectares of wilderness. Pitch your tent at Camp Elephant and go on an early morning game drive with the reserve’s guides in the hope of seeing rhino or even lions, or take a self-drive via the demarcated routes. Grab an ice cream at the camp shop and relax by the waterhole, which is frequented by elephants on a daily basis. Sunday lunch buffets at Old Trader’s Lodge are an experience you won’t forget soon. Not only is the huge spread well worth the N$150, but you’ll also be joined by hippos, crocodiles and maybe even some African wild dogs at the enormous waterhole right in front of the restaurant area.

There is no place better during a full moon than to be at the enigmatic Spitzkoppe. The campsites here are run by the local community and are beautifully maintained and come at a lovely low price. Climb one of the rocky outcrops or visit the rock paintings and be sure to stay awake as late as possible and watch the enormous glowing moon rise over the inselberg. You’ll never forget the sight.

generation wanderlust

Top 10 bush to beach to-dos: 1. Go on a Carnivore Walk at N/a’an ku sê

2. Spend the weekend camping and self-driving through Erindi Private Game Reserve

3. Spend the next full moon at the Spitzkoppe, for the best view of the evening sky

4. Go on a sundowner horse ride at Elisenheim Guest Farm with Equitrails Namibia

Touchies Tournament on the 26th of December

6. Drift in the dense waters of the man-made salt-lake just north of Henties

7. Have a sundowner at Tiger Reef Beach Bar on the edge of Swakopmund

Sean McCulloch

5. Experience the fun of Henties Bay at their annual

8. Hit the dunes on a quadbike or speed dune the face of one on a sandboard

9. Spend the day bodyboarding or kayaking in the

waters along one of the coast’s beautiful beaches

10. Dance the night away or bring in the New Year with a bang at any of the coastal towns’ fun waterholes

If the bush isn’t really your thing (i.e. too many thorns in your bare feet) you can always head to the beach! Namibia’s coastline has so many fun and exciting things to offer the young traveller, so pack your sunnies and head west. Both the Swakopmund-Long Beach-Walvis Bay area and the more northern fisherman’s town of Henties Bay are great locations for a summer beach holi-

Marcia Venter

Here comes the sun

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day. In Henties, spend your days lounging at the beach and soaking up the sun. About 20 minutes north of town you can find an old quarry hole where locals like to drift in the salt-rich water, which keeps you afloat not unlike the Red Sea. During December there are lots of events to keep you busy, including the annual Touch Rugby Tournament held on the 26th. Watch guys running around barefoot on the beach playing one of Namibia’s favourite sports, or have a cold one in the beer tent. At night there are many interesting waterholes to enjoy. Go have a sokkie (Afrikaans for a form of couples’ dancing) at Legends or learn to play the German parlour game Knobel at Pirate’s Cove.

Ilsje du Plooy

If you’re in Swakopmund or Walvis Bay I recommend hitting the dunes. Go on a quadbike sundowner dune tour with Daredevil Adventures or join the guys at Alter Action for an amazing sandboarding adventure or spend your days on the long stretch of beach between Long Beach and Swakopmund, bodyboarding, kayaking or jetskiing. Jump on a Mola Mola Catamaran Cruise and explore the waters off the coast of Walvis Bay. You’re likely to meet pelicans and a host of other birds, as well as dolphins and seals. The seals sometimes even like to come say 'Hi' on the boat. During December Swakopmund is a hub of activity and host to many parties and events. Don’t miss the Beach Bash in Long Beach at the beginning of December or choose from a number of different New Year’s Eve celebrations. A great sundowner spot in Swakopmund is Tiger Reef Beach Bar and nights out on the town can be enjoyed at Kücki’s Pub, Napolitana, The Locker Room or Hotel Grüner Kranz.

Why the hell not?

Whatever your preference, whether it’s bush or beach, be sure to step outside this summer and enjoy Namibia’s natural delights. Life is about collecting moments and when you’re young and hungry for adventure, there are endless opportunities to do just that throughout Namibia. Don’t let your wanderlust - that need to explore new places - be ignored. Jump to it! Adventure is waiting.

Stay curious! TNN

Cocktail hour at the coast • Tiger Reef in Swakopmund

• Hotel Grüner Kranz in Swakopmund • Kücki’s Pub in Swakopmund

• The Locker Room at The Dome in Swakopmund • Napolitana in Swakopmund

• The Oyster Bar in Long Beach • Pirate’s Cove in Henties Bay

• De Duine Hotel in Henties Bay

• Solitude Beach Bar in Henties Bay • Legends Pub in Henties Bay

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Pompie's Tips

on Bird Photography Text & Photographs Pompie Burger

The two most important objects you need for bird photography are a camera and a bird. Preferably a good camera, with at least a 300mm lens, and a ‘good ’ bird (as in: as close as possible). Most of the other “megafters” are optional and only add to the load you have to carry in the process of following the most important object.

Being technologically impaired I will not go into the f iner photographical details like ISO, F-stop, shutter speed, not to mention white balance and histograms.

birding

I think that most of the essentials of bird photography are pretty much the same as in any wildlife photography, so I will skip the “golden hour, background, composition, cutting of legs and heads from your subject and rule of thirds�. Trying to focus on the essentials of bird photography, one cannot overemphasize the importance of having a relatively strong (300mm but preferably 600mm) lens. It should probably be strong in terms of breakability, too, as you might drop the lens or it falls from the tripod, be it by accident or plain stupidity.

The main problems with birds are that they are much smaller than elephants (see 600mm lens), and that they have a tendency (probably because their lack of size) to fly away as soon as every other setting on your camera (see focus) is 100%. This is especially true in cases where you come across a bird you have been trying to photograph for many years. At this stage it is important to mention that your focus point should be the bird’s eye, with a glint in the eye otherwise you will have to chuck away (delete) your best effort and try again.

On the other hand, the beauty of bird photography is that birds are beautiful little creatures, they are colourful, and they are not restricted by borders and fences. They even come to your garden. Another rather big plus about birds is that they are not dangerous (except for an ostrich), but be careful for the real animals like lions, crocodiles, hippos, buffaloes and elephants, because they have a tendency to be around in the wild and can get quite irritated if all the attention is not focused on them, or sometimes if you are in their way while they are on the move and you might be busy taking pictures of a sunbird or some other unimportant bird. The last but not least advantage with birds is that they are always around: at a game park you will always see birds, even if only a lark.

Southern Carmine Bee-eater

A breeding colony of southern carmine bee-eaters at Kalizo. Being able to take a picture of these beautiful birds in flight gives some idea of their unmatched beauty and agility. 300mm Nikon lens, ISO 800, f-stop 7.1, shatter speed 1/800.

birding

Swallow-tailed Bee-eater

A very special picture of a bee-eater leaving its nest, depicting the beautiful colours of the bird. 600mm Nikon lens, ISO 1600, f-stop 8, shatter speed 1/3200.

Ethics are another important aspect as far as bird photography is concerned. Again, the ethics in all wildlife photography are pretty much the same, but there are a few exceptions. Calling birds has become a very popular tool in bird watching and bird photography.

There are various philosophies but whatever your idea on this is, one should probably try at least not to irritate or confuse the birds, especially when breeding. My personal philosophy is to talk to the bird!

This might sound strange but it is really a very important tool in your arsenal when taking pictures. Mostly it is to calm them down, telling them all is okay and that it will not be painful. If they fly away I swear at them, which helps to decrease the frustration and irritation resulting from an unsuccessful encounter. The variety of words at your disposal is endless and depending on your morals and vocabulary this can go on for quite a while and is quite satisfying in the end.

When it comes to taking pictures at a nest, feeding birds to attract them and throwing stones at them to make them fly (picture in flight, or moving to a spot which is a bit more open and suitable for a good picture), is up to you as the photographer and your ethical angle, but do not hurt or kill any bird in the process.

I found the use of a flash during daytime (fill flash) to be quite useful. Unfortunately it’s another item to carry when doing your photography on foot. The effect is especially rewarding when taking photos in the middle of the day (not the golden hour) and your bird is sitting in a tree with shadow or uneven shadows on it. This is done with aperture priority turned down 1/3 when the flash is on the TTL setting. TNN

The journey continues

Get the second edition of Pompie's acclaimed birding photographic journey through Namibia, Birds of Namibia: The Journey Continues.

Order your copy now from Venture Publications: bonn@venture.com.na

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SUMMER 2015 /16

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Bradfields Hornbill

A hornbill coming in to land on the ground, with good back lighting on the Namibian landscape in Mamili Game Park late one afternoon. This is one of my favourite pictures, taken of a bird in flight as it should be. 300mm +1, 7 converter Nikon Lens, ISO 1000, f-stop 6.3, shatter speed 1/2500.

The most important items to take with on a bird photography trip 1. Patience: There is no replacement for good old patience, take time and it will be rewarded.

2. Good company.

3. Love of birds: Whatever photography you do, this is the most important.

4. Anticipation: Try to think like a bird, what they are going to do; as you get older you will learn what different birds do and that will make your task that much easier.

5. Luck.

6. Faith, hope and love.

Black Kite

A kite in flight with the Erongo Mountains as a backdrop.

The picture was taken just outside Usakos along the road, although the light was quite harsh at 13h00 in the afternoon.

300mm Nikon lens, ISO 800, f-stop 9, shatter speed 1/2500.

birding

Yellow-billed Stork

This spectacular bird/bill is one of my favorite birds because of its beautiful bill, colour and peculiar hunting method. The picture was taken at Mahango Game Park. 600mm Nikon lens, ISO 400, f-stop 7.1, shatter speed 1/400.

Cradled amongst Camelthorn trees and vistas of undulating Kalahari sands crusted in golden grass, Otjimbondona offers those seeking exclusivity, luxury and tranquility the ideal African retreat. www.otjimbondona.com

welcome@otjimbondona.com | anita@profilesafaris.com Anita Slaney: +264 81 243 5478 | Wilfried Slaney: +264 81 127 4358 | PO Box 11013, Windhoek, Namibia Location: 120 km from Windhoek and 80 km from Hosea Kutako Airport

FOR BOOKINGS OR ENQUIRIES

+264 (0) 61 213 231 (Namibia) +27 (0) 21 430 5300 (South Africa) info@proteahotels.com.na proteahotels.com

TRUE NAMIBIAN HOSPITALITY.

ENJOY TRUE NAMIBIAN HOSPITALITY IN THE LAND WHERE THE OCEAN MEETS THE DESERT.

With 9 hotels located across Namibia offering both full and half day conference packages, Protea Hotels Namibia can cater for any type of conference or teambuilding activity.

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With 9 hotels located across Namibia, Protea Hotels Namibia offers you a diverse experience, from the inland Etosha Pan supporting a large and varied wildlife on its plains, to the Walvis Bay Lagoon, one of the most important wetland areas on the African coastline.

In search of silence: gobabeb Text & photographs Marita van Rooyen

On the innermost edges of the coastal dune belt lies a fascinating setting, peacefully enshrined in silence. Poetically named !Nomabeb by the local inhabitants – the ≠Aonin Nama or Topnaar – after the fig trees (Ficus sycamorus) that grow along the banks of the Kuiseb River, the place that is today called Gobabeb isn’t your ordinary tourist destination.

A

t Gobabeb, situated between three ecosystems - the endless grey gravel plains, the predominantly dry Kuiseb River and the Namib Sand Sea with its shades of soft red flowing dunes - you will find a community of desert researchers. This group of dedicated people spend their days documenting the seemingly desolate landscapes, tracking weather patterns, interesting natural phenomena, geological formations, and behaviours and mannerisms of specially adapted fauna and flora. The centre has been acting as a scientific oasis in this dry, desolate landscape since 1962 when Dr Charles Koch and his team erected the first permanent structures. For many years it was only accessible to those in the know, invited guests, educational groups, or the misplaced traveller who stumbled upon its welcome gates, side-tracked on his way to a more popular destination.

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But recently all this has changed, as the doors to the desert centre opened up to all and anyone who wished to explore its silent shores. The dry patches of open land within the station compound, where tents were formerly only erected on an adhoc basis, now hold 10 private camp sites, neatly designed to protect campers from the wind and scorching sun. It overlooks the Kuiseb, tinted green with Ana, Acacia, Tamarisk and Wild Ebony, twittering with life as the birds sing their morning songs.

Further up on the plain stand a number of 4-bed clay houses and 2-bed bungalows, designed to provide shelter against the weather, as extremes are known to rage outside these doors.

With large wrap-around verandas, and positioned to keep off the midday sun, they invite to sit back and enjoy the endless vistas unfold far beyond where the eye can see. For larger

book reviews

groups there are also 3-bedroom villas with kitchen, lounge, dining area, bathroom, courtyard and garage.

Apart from magnificent dune views from the porch, a party of pied crows promises to amuse the observer on the stoep, as they hop from tree to rock, talking in tongues and proudly showing off their clean white waistcoats. Accommodation units are either self-catering, or for those who’d like to take a break from the kitchen, chef Hendrik Adams and his team are prepared to lovingly cook up a storm and fill hungry bellies with the most delectable local cuisine (to be pre-booked before arrival). Originally from the nearest hub of civilisation, Walvis Bay, Hendrik has been feeding visitors to the Gobabeb centre since 1998, and apart from knowing exactly how to win over hearts with his cooking talent, he also knows the area like the back of his hand.

Energy is provided through a hybrid system using off-grid solar power to supply energy-efficient appliances in rooms, communal areas, offices and even laboratories. This means that high-energy consumers like hairdryers are not welcome in the rooms. Other conservation initiatives, such as the ‘Desert Rat Shower’, are also intended to encourage a frugal use of precious reserves. Drinking water is treated by a new, highly

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advanced system of reverse osmosis and later passes through a trickle-filter system, which produces high-standard effluent.

There are plans afoot to re-use this effluent for watering the vegetable garden to further conserve resources.

area’s rich natural and cultural heritage makes it stand out from any other place on earth, and if you’re into seclusion and learning about the secrets of the desert, then this is a destination not to be missed.

If you’re searching for a bit more than what lies within the confines of your veranda, the centre offers informative station tours, and both guided and self-guided nature walks for those who want to learn more about this unique and untouched natural world. A night-time scorpion walk is another exciting activity to entertain night-dwellers, with the possibility of additional nocturnal sightings included if you’re one of the lucky ones.

Visitors are welcome to further enrich their knowledge at the wellstocked library, which boasts the most extensive collection on arid zone research in ecology and biology in sub-Saharan Africa.

Remember, Gobabeb is located within the Namib-Naukluft Park and general park rules apply, including the need to obtain an entry permit. Please do not collect any souvenirs – however tempting it might be – and bring your own firewood.

Gobabeb is a place for nature appreciators, environmentally conscious travellers, and those in search of silence. The

Fauna & Flora Fun Facts:

Gobabeb is located 120km southeast of Walvisbay and about 300km from Windhoek via the Gamsberg Pass, and accessible on scenically beautiful gravel roads.

A stay at the Namib’s very own research centre can be booked through www.staygobabeb.com or directly through the centre.

Visit www.gobabebtrc.org for more information. TNN

• There are 80 different tenebroid beetle species around Gobabeb.

• Geological formations around the area are dominated by schist, marble, quartz and granite.

• The Ana tree (Faidherbia albida), or queen of the Kuiseb, is dormant in summer, which enables it to tolerate low soil oxygen during the seasonal floods; it supports many animals with food through its protein-rich seeds, produced at the end of the dry season, and shelter as one of the tallest trees along the Kuiseb.

• The Camelthorn (Acacia erioloba), found on the banks of the river and further afield, has a root system up to 45 metres deep, enabling it to survive in arid conditions.

• The Tamarisk tree (Tamarix usneoides) can tolerate salt and its leaves change colour from green to grey over the course of the day as it secretes salt to limit water-loss.

• The spiky !Nara melon bush (Acanthosicyos horridus) has a taproot system of up to 50 metres. The fruit is a keystone ecological taxon and a favourite of many fauna in the area, including ostrich, gemsbok, jackal, gerbil and lizards. It is also an important source of livelihood for the Topnaar.

• The area is home to the reputedly fastest running beetle in the world, the Onymacris plana, which can often be found avidly chasing after wind-blown detritus.

• The male Namaqua sand grouse (Pterocles namaqua) can store water in its breast feathers and travel up to 40km daily to bring this precious resource to its offspring.

• The side-winding adder (Bitis peringueyi) has adapted to life on the hot dune sands by moving its body in curving thrusts to minimise contact with the sand. It is so well-adapted to the desert that it does not rely on open water sources to stay hydrated, but rather gets its water from its food.

gobabeb Research at Gobabeb Knowledge-seekers might be interested to know that while guests delight in the views and tours offered at Gobabeb, the station remains fully committed to its role as a research institution. In its more than fifty years of existence, Gobabeb has conducted much of the existing research on arid ecology in this unique fog-fed desert, and up till today continues with a variety of research projects.

Gobabeb’s researchers focus on maintaining the invaluable long-term data sets for weather and beetle diversity, as well as establishing novel projects. Some of the ongoing projects at Gobabeb include FogNet, an international effort in monitoring fog production and the fog-dependent biota in the Namib Desert, a project documenting lizard diversity and range throughout the Namib, and a multi-year project observing the growth and occurrence of Namibia’s national

plant and “living fossil”, the Welwitschia, around Gobabeb.

In addition to its core objective to host and practice scientific research, Gobabeb has also become a forerunner in advocating environmental education in Namibia. The other half of Gobabeb’s modern mission is training: Gobabeb welcomes nearly a thousand learners of all ages through its gates every year, from across Namibia and around the world, to introduce them to the incredible ecology. Students are taught the basics of scientific investigation. They take part in one of Gobabeb’s annual internship programmes, the Summer Drylands Programme (November-January) or Gobabeb Training and Research Internship Programme (February-June). Both programmes are intensive field courses which introduce Namibian university students to arid ecology and restoration.

Sit back and enjoy the endless vistas unfold far beyond where the eye can see.

Campsites overlook the Kuiseb and dune belt.

Explore this untouched natural world on foot.

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• Situated in the beautiful coastal town Swakopmund • Built in and around the restored Old Station Building dating back to 1901 • This 4-star hotel offers 90 spacious rooms • Recreational facilities include a swimming pool, a gymnasium and casino,

“There is still only one place to stay in Windhoek.

Windhoek Country Club Resort - Your resort in the city”

2 Cinemas with 3D, Hair Salon & Spa • Two-minute’s walk from city centre • Day trips to the desert as well as dolphin cruises and scenic flights can be arranged.

• Standard Rooms (wheel chair accessible) • Luxury Suites

Tel: +264 (0) 64 410 5200 | Fax: +264 (0) 64 410 5360 Email: swakopmund@legacyhotels.co.za | Website: www.LegacyHotels.co.za PO Box 616, Swakopmund

• Casino

• Limited Wireless Internet

• Bars

• In-house Gym

• Foreign Exchange

• Child Friendly

• Restaurant

Tel: +264 (0) 61 205 5911 | Fax: +264 (0) 61 252 797 Email: windhoek@legacyhotels.com | Website: www.LegacyHotels.com Location: B1 Western Bypass, Windhoek South, Namibia

www.LegacyHotels.com

www.LegacyHotels.com

Xenia Ivanoff-Erb

TOP 10

new things to try at the coast

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Fuel your inner foodie at any one of the new Strand Hotel’s four eateries

First off, there’s the Brewer & Butcher at Strand Hotel Swakopmund, which is Namibia’s first microbrewery restaurant, with a rich blend of Namibian and German culture. It specialises in beef and game with an authentic German beer garden. Café Mole revives the tradition of ice cream at the Mole, transporting you back in time with a 1950s style American diner look. The Farmhouse Deli has a clean, country kitchen feel with ample seating and great service. This spacious delicatessen and bistro is filled with the smell of fresh homemade bread, pastries and Slow Town coffee. Last, but not least, The Ocean Cellar serves all manner of seafood from fish to oysters to sushi in a contemporary restaurant design focused on a show kitchen.

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Tour the historic town or surrounding dunes with Swakopmund Fat Bike Tours

Swakopmund Fat Bike Tours offers you an unforgettable and unique ecological Namibian cycling experience. You can experience the serenity of the oldest desert in the world with all your senses while almost effortlessly floating over pebbles and sand on a fat bike. There are three different tours to choose from – The Scenic Desert Tour, Low Tide Beach Cruise or Old City Swakopmund Tour. Contact details: +264 81 395 5813 or info@swakopfatbiketours.com.

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Loved getting spicy in Windhoek?

Well, Garnish has just opened a branch in Swakopmund

This is the destination for food lovers who look for authentic Indian cuisine served in a traditional way. Garnish specialises in various vegetarian and non-vegetarian Indian dishes and also caters for vegans with a variety of options specially prepared for them. It is the perfect blend of taste, traditions and hospitality, celebrating an exotic and colourful culture. Garnish Swakopmund is situated on the corner of Tobias Hainyeko and Woermann Street. Contact details: 081 257 0488.

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WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM

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Kick off your shoes and enjoy a lazy Sunday lunch buffet at Henties Bay’s Solitude Beach Restaurant & Bar

Solitude is an open-air beach restaurant with a wonderful atmosphere, delicious food and spectacular views of the ocean. After working up an appetite during all your fun beach activities, take a break and refuel with your toes in the sand. Solitude has the best home-cooked style food that you won’t be able to get enough of. Think slow-roast lamb, sweet pumpkin and baked potatoes…sounds good, right? Contact details: 0818188247.

5

Watch sport or enjoy a drink with friends at the only Sports Bar & Lounge along the Namibian coast at The Locker Room at The Dome in Swakopmund

The next time you’re at the coast and you need your sport fix, The Locker Room is where you need to go. This is the place where you can enjoy various live broadcasts of top sporting events as well as regular live musical performances. The Locker Room is situated on Level 1 of The Dome, Welwitschia Street, Swakopmund. Contact details: +264 64 40 0301.

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Enjoy a cocktail with the girls at Gondwana’s funky new The Delight Swakopmund

Amongst the town’s captivating contrasts and old traditions, Gondwana’s Delight is a fresh breeze in the desert. This brand-new hotel welcomed its first guests on the 1st of November. Every effort is made to surprise and delight guests with thoughtful touches and locally inspired reasons to smile. Enjoy the easy comfort of the hotel, the warm and welcoming service Gondwana is known for and the assistance provided by knowledgeable Delight hosts.

Situated on the corner of Theo Ben Gurirab Avenue and Nathaniel Maxuilili Street, Swakopmund. Contact details: +26461 24 72 00.

TNN top 10

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Why not rough it a little and go camping at NWR’s newly upgraded campsites at Mile 14

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Get arty and enjoy proudly Namibian fare at the COSDEC Arts & Crafts Centre Swakopmund

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Harald Braun

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André Bruwer

Rosenhof Self-catering Chalets offers something really different for group outings with family and friends: book an enjoyable Tractor Trail with Happy Trails along the Swakop River, two hours with snacks and drinks included (minimum 10 people, maximum 20 people). Contact Norbert at +264 81 124 9507.

Xenia Ivanoff-Erb

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Xenia Ivanoff-Erb

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Go on a Tractor Trail with Happy Trails along the Swakop River for a different spin on the regular family outing

Xenia Ivanoff-Erb

The centre serves as a sales hub for arts and craft products from Community Skills Development Centres (COSDECs) countrywide and also assists artists and artisans to further develop their unique skills and products. The Swakopmund Arts and Craft Centre will be reserved exclusively for Namibian arts and craft. Make sure you buy something authentically Namibian to remember your summer holiday or your trip to Namibia!

The Dome Swakopmund has a state-of-the-art Health & Wellness Centre with a Gym and Indoor Swimming Pool.

Memberships for a day or a week are available for visitors.

At the Swakopmund Health & Wellness Centre they believe that today’s innovations should be natural and have minimal impact on Earth’s resources. The gym uses Mallia equipment from Germany, which employs sophisticated biometrical sensors to respond to your fitness levels and the aims you set.

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Xenia Ivanoff-Erb

Camping is one of those activities that keeps you grounded (literally) and makes you appreciate the finer things in life, but while you’re there there’s so much to take in: enjoy the fresh air, the sunrise and sunset, the smell of the ocean, the sound of the crashing waves soothing you to sleep…it’s an adventure!

Mile 14 offers electrified camping as well as a host of new facilities, including hot showers, flush toilets and a pub and grill restaurant. After being closed for nine years, it will re-open on 9 December 2015.

Leave the couch behind for a fun and active day at The Dome Swakopmund’s Health & Wellness Centre

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• Taste of African original • No hidden costs

WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM

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NEW SERVICE

Tailor-made TOUR PLANNING and ACCOMMODATION BOOKINGS according to your individual needs Tel (+264 61) 23 7756 Carhire: carhire@africaonline.com.na • www.camping-carhire.com Tours: angela@camping-carhire.com • www.exclusive-safaritours.com

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Tel +264 61 22 4909 • Fax +264 61 22 4924 info@gocheganas.com • www.gocheganas.com

Tel +264 61 40 1494 • Fax +264 61 24 3079 reservations@rivercrissing.com.na • www.rivercrossing.com.na

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SUMMER 2015 /16

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Photo courtesy of: Paul van Schalkwyk

Namibia. Wild at heart.

An untamed wilderness that will always leave you spoilt for choice.

Mother Nature is waiting for you.

NAMIBIA – Head office C/O Haddy & Sam Nujoma Drive Private Bag 13244, Windhoek Tel: +264 61 290 6000 Fax: +264 61 25 4848 Email: info@namibiatourism.com.na www.namibiatourism.com.na

GERMANY Schillerstrasse 42 – 44, D – 60313 Frankfurt am Main, Tel: +49 69 1337 360 Fax: +49 69 1337 3615 Email: info@namibia-tourism.com www.namibia-tourism.com

SOUTH AFRICA Cape Town Ground floor, The Pinnacle Burg Street, P O. Box 739 Tel: +27 21 422 3298 Fax: +27 21 422 5132 Email: namibia@saol.com

www.namibiatourism.com.na