Travel News Namibia Summer 2014/2015

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VOLUME 23 No 1 | SUMMER 2014/15

THE DESERT KNIGHTS

Cycle Tour Winners

#thisismynamibia

SURF

NAMIBIA

N$40.00 incl. VAT R40.00 incl. VAT

EXPLORE

SWAKOPMUND

REDISCOVER

POPA FALLS

WEAT H SHOP ER PING FOOD

is published by Venture Publications in Windhoek, Namibia www.travelnewsnamibia.com 4 Herzinger Crescent, Klein Windhoek PO Box 21593, Windhoek, Namibia MANAGING EDITOR Riéth van Schalkwyk rieth@venture.com.na TEXT EDITOR Amy Schoeman TECHNICAL DIRECTOR Naude Muller LAYOUT Petra Tegethoff CUSTOMER SERVICE Bonn Nortjé bonn@venture.com.na ONLINE EDITOR Jana-Mari Smith jansmithventure@gmail.com COVER PHOTOGRAPH Alan van Gysen

TEXT CONTRIBUTORS Annabelle Venter, Ron Swilling, Pompie Burger, Jana-Mari Smith, Elzanne Erasmus, Will Bendix, Christie Keulder, Edward Jenkins, Luise Hoffmann, Hu Berry, Amy Schoeman PHOTOGRAPHERS Paul van Schalkwyk, Annabelle Venter, Ron Swilling, Pompie Burger, Paul Sutton, Alan van Gysen, Christie Keulder, Luise Hoffmann, Elzanne Erasmus, Jana-Mari Smith, Hu Berry PRINTERS John Meinert Printing, Windhoek Travel News Namibia is published quarterly, distributed worldwide and produced solely on Apple Macintosh equipment. The editorial content of TNN is contributed by freelance writers and journalists. It is the sole responsibility of the publisher and no part of the magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

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VENTURE PUBLICATIONS Venture Publications is the pioneer of Namibia tourism promotion. We are the leader in spreading the tourism word around the world. We distribute accurate, credible, up-to-date and regular tourism-related information on paper, in social media, on the world-wide web, and on mobile apps.

We have reached hundreds of thousands over more than two decades. Be part of our community and let’s do it together.

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NEW FROM VENTURE PUBLICATIONS

NAMIBIA HOLIDAY & TRAVEL The 200-plus-page Namibia Holiday & Travel tourism directory is published in print and online to promote Namibia as a tourist destination offering an abundance of national parks, magnificent wildlife and spectacular scenery.

CONSERVATION AND THE ENVIRONMENT IN NAMIBIA Conservation and the Environment in Namibia, an annual special edition of Travel News Namibia, is published in close cooperation with the Ministry of Environment and Tourism, and is available as a printed magazine and online.

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This latest book by Venture Publications, Indigenous PLANT PRODUCTS in Namibia, provides information on the harvesting and commercialisation of local plant products such as !nara fruit, hoodia resin, devil’s claw tubers, marama beans and ximenia seed kernels by rural people to improve their food security and livelihoods.

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EDITOR’S LETTER THANK YOU FOR PICKING UP THIS EDITION OF TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA

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t doesn’t have our usual look. And yes, surfing is not exactly what the Namibian ‘brand’ is about. But after 20 years we decided to take the plunge and see if the Travel News Namibia brand is strong enough to survive the risk of having waves on its cover despite being a magazine about a desert country.

Besides, who would be able to resist featuring the words of the editor of an iconic magazine such as Zig Zag? Not me! Will Bendix and photographer Alan van Gysen have shown another side of Namibia in a way that few of our readers, I’m sure, have ever seen before.

Namibia has 365 days of sunshine. You can be sure that if the sun is behind clouds where you are, it will be sunny somewhere close by, or where you are if you wait an hour or two. Well… mostly. Strange as it may seem, most days when we don’t have sun all day long are in summer. And Namibians love these days. Revel in them. Especially when we don’t have the kleine Regenzeit, as our German countrymen refer to the few showers in spring.

In early summer the blue sky is not only cloudless, but the day temperatures are high. It’s then that we appreciate a little cloud cover. This year October came and went and we had to be satisfied with a few partially cloudy days and only rumours of rain. I, for one, don’t mind, because if the rain comes too early, the delicate blossoms of the thorn trees become wet, and instead of floating down softy to the earth, they drop in soggy clumps. Although the jacaranda trees in Windhoek are exotics, we love the way they burst their blooms to coincide with the exuberance of bougainvilleas, colouring a rather bleak-looking city in vibrant pinks and purples. To have all of this splendour against a backdrop of billowing puffy white summer clouds in a clear blue sky is simply lovely.

There is another secret to summer in Namibia. Those who cannot bear the 30-degree plus heat of the interior, escape to the coast. However, between one and 10 km from the coastline, the chances of having 365 days of sunshine are somewhat fewer. The fresh sea breeze on misty mornings, kabeljou and rock lobster, long walks along endless beaches, exhilarating horse-rides and jumps, make the Namibian coast a holiday destination of note. After 20 years of writing about Swakop, Walvis Bay, Henties Bay and Lüderitz, and the rest of the 1,700-km coastline between these towns and the two rivers that form the northern and southern borders, we still find something new to tell. Or often, just someone new to tell the same story of the same places but from a different angle and perspective.

Take your binoculars with you to the coast this year, and enjoy the coastal birds with Pompie Burger. Ron Swilling spent quite some time researching and writing updates on places you probably already know. Through her words you may see a new picture altogether. Ed Jenkins’s last contribution on Namibia’s wetlands features Sandwich Harbour. If you travel north, be sure to keep your eyes open for the trees that Luise Hoffman describes so meticulously for travellers such as yourself. And if you’re one of the lucky ones travelling even further north, make sure you stop at Popa Falls along the way. Annabelle Venter wrote an update on the major renovations to the camp soon after their completion. Continue east and another surprise awaits you at Kalizo on the Zambezi. It’s too late to capture the carmine bee-eaters the way Annabelle did, but it certainly is an option for a visit early next summer. If you’re more of an adventurer on two wheels, book the Desert Nights trip immediately. Or if you’re one of our readers on the other side of the globe, revel in the memories and share them with us on Instagram.

It’s hot. The sky is blue. The clouds are white and puffy. Tempers are fraying and we’re almost signing off on 2014 – as is the rest of Namibia!

See you at the coast!

Riéth van Schalkwyk

SUMMERTIME

IN NAMIBIA

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CONTENTS SUMMER 2014/15 8 WHAT’S NEW(S)? New developments in the industry 13 FAST FACTS All you need to know about Namibia 14 POPA FALLS REST CAMP Popa comes of age 18 DIAMONDS IN THE ROUGH Surfing the Skeleton Coast 26 THE DESERT KNIGHTS TOUR Follow your moon shadow

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32 BIRDING Swakop’s best birding spot? The Walvis Bay Lagoon!

38 TNN SHOPPING Do your Christmas shopping in Swakop 40 SEAL RESERVE Finding treasure at Cape Cross 42 EATING OUT Daisho Sushi and Wine Bar

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46 DESERT FARE Swakop River Saturday 48 DAY TRIPS FROM SWAKOPMUND Day-tripping in the desert 50 TRAVEL TIPS for Tree Lovers 54 THE WETLAND TREASURES OF NAMIBIA Sandwich Harbour 58 SWAKOPMUND Through the eyes of a child 60 WEATHER Summer at a glance 62 BOOKS on Namibia

CONTENTS

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38 64 KALIZO FISHING CAMP A family affair for birders and fishermen

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66 KAYAK TOURS Animal antics in Walvis Bay 70 EVENTS CALENDAR Summer 2014/15 72 #THISISMYNAMIBIA Travel News Namibia’s social-media campaign 74 PLANT WONDERS OF THE NAMIB Over the moon

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DILLISH MATHEWS promotes local tourism

WHAT’S NEW(S)?

Compiled Jana-Mari Smith & Elzanne Erasmus

Namibia’s first-time Big Brother winner and all-round celebrity, Dillish Mathews, was recruited by the Namibia Tourism Board (NTB) to swop her heels for her boots, and have a crack at promoting domestic tourism during an 11-day trip through the country.

What with 220,000 Facebook followers, 101,000 Twitter followers and 65,000 Instagram fans, the Namibian beauty was armed and ready to spread the word to locals through social media, using the hashtag #sharemynamibia.

The NTB online campaign took into account the increasing use and awareness of digital media in Namibia. By posting photos of her adventures, and regaling her fans with stories of her day-today experiences, the NTB hoped to open the eyes of Namibians to the beauty situated in their own backyard.

As a result of the campaign, the NTB launched new sites via their Endless Horizon website, detailing a list of activities that each of Namibia’s regions has to offer. All Namibians are encouraged to contribute to the list, by mailing NTB and sharing ‘their’ Namibia with the website world.

Go to stories.namibiatourism.com.na/sharemy-namibia/ for travel ideas and to add your own travel tips.

LONELY PLANETS

rates Namibia among the best The popular global travel guide and website, Lonely Planet, has placed Namibia second in its Best in Travel: Top 10 countries of 2015 guide, with Singapore just beating Namibia for the number-one spot.

Lonely Planet has discovered what we’ve known all along: that Namibia is among the top must-visit destinations worldwide.

The organisation cited Namibia’s amazing conservation successes as one of the deciding factors in the country’s global appeal, and detailed the leadingedge progress the country has made in sustainable development and the empowerment of local communities through conservation efforts.

Among the locations chosen as its favourite Namibian hotspots are Sossusvlei, the Namib-Naukluft Park, Etosha National Park and the Skeleton Coast. The guide highlights certain interesting features, dividing them into different categories, and alluding to Namibia’s ‘current craze’ as self-drive safaris. It singles out the small golden wheel spider that cartwheels down dune faces as its favourite ‘random fact’ pertaining to the country.

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Lonely Planet furthermore singles out Kolmanskop as Namibia’s ‘most bizarre sight’. All in all, an aspect Namibians certainly have in common with Lonely Planet is that locals are in awe of Namibia’s spectacular beauty – as the entire world will soon be.

See the Lonely Planet guide on the Travel News Namibia Facebook page at www.facebook.com/TravelNewsNamibiaonline or on http://www.lonelyplanet.com/best-in-travel/countries/ 02-namibia.

WHAT’S NEW(S)?

GEAR UP for your next outdoor adventure Agra opened its newly revamped Safari Den store in the Auas Valley Shopping Mall with a cocktail event for invited guests on 22 October. Safari Den has always had great success with Namibians, as it is the perfect retail shop for nature lovers and camping enthusiasts. The new outlet boasts 1,330 m² of retail space displaying outdoor equipment, shoes and clothing for campers, while 440 m² hosts the arms and ammunition section of the store. This ‘truly Namibian’ company made sure that the interior design of its store upheld its style and character.

When walking through the bigger and better Safari Den, visitors are bound to become enthused about their next trip into the great Namibian outdoors. As part of its opening celebrations, Safari Den offers over 500 products at special prices, valid from 24 October, with summer specials extending to 10 January 2015. For further information contact Albé at +264 61 290 9273 or albes@agra.com.na, or make contact online via www.agra.com.na.

PACK SAFARIS gets green card

Pack Safaris, a Namibian inbound tour operator specialising in tailor-made tours throughout Namibia and several Southern African countries, recently scored top marks in one of Namibia’s toughest sustainable certification assessments – an Eco Awards Namibia assessment in which the company came out on top with an 81% score.

According to Hazel Milne, the Eco Awards coordinator, the awards are a certification programme that rewards responsible tourism in accordance with international sustainable tourism standards. Hazel noted that Pack Safaris already had a number of sustainable practices in place, which contributed to their 81 per cent score.

Carsten von Lüttwitz, Marketing Manager at Pack Safaris, explained that when the company was approached by Eco Awards Namibia to participate in the pilot programme for tour operator assessments, “We were 100% ready.” He noted that the company had already ensured that sustainable practices were a major part of their business strategy and that the eco-awards assessment would reflect this.

A member of the Pack Safaris team said that since the company’s inception in 1995, being eco-friendly was of the ‘utmost importance’. Reflecting on the strict criteria on which an Eco-Award assessment is based, he added: “The criteria are an essential and natural requirement for all inhabitants of this planet. We have to take responsibility for our planet now.” The other team members confirmed that the assessment gave them a chance to ‘learn a great deal’ and that they were looking forward to ‘improving wherever necessary and possible’.

A NEW CULTURAL HUB for Swakopmund The COSDEF Arts & Crafts Centre in Swakopmund opened its doors with a celebratory weekend festival on 13, 14 and 15 November. The exciting new centre was established with the support of MCA Namibia, which facilitated COSDEF’s efforts to empower disadvantaged individuals and communities through education and skills training.

The centre boasts a fun, modern design and serves as an effective platform for COSDEF craftsmen and -women to sell their handmade products, and as an outlet for other Namibian artisans. The striking buildings were designed to host small individual retail spaces, a large open courtyard for exhibitions, market-style stalls, a restaurant, food stalls, a playground, and even an amphitheatre for musical, dance and theatrical productions. The centre also boasts various workshop areas where art-and-craft training and mentorship events are held and facilitated, involving leather, textile, jewellery and design studios, and conference centres. It will serve as a hub for tourists and Namibians alike to enjoy the splendour of Namibian craftsmanship, artistry, innovation and creativity, and will afford potential artists and craftsmen the opportunity to hone their skills and receive training or partake in mentorship programmes.

With so much to look forward to, the COSDEF Art & Crafts Centre is a brand-new must-see when visiting the coast.

Explore the creativity the centre has to offer or just pop in to do some Christmas shopping. Either way you’ll be amazed at what a giant leap forward COSDEF and MCA Namibia have enabled in the lives of Namibian artists and craftsmen.

You will also experience the joy that centres such as these bring to local Namibians, allowing them to become enthused about the bright and colourful future ahead.

For further information, contact the Centre at +264 64 40 6122, send an email to artsncraft@iway.na or visit one of its websites at www.namibiacraftcollections. wordpress.com or www.cosdef.org.na.

ALL ABOUT that base An unusual musical jam session took place in Windhoek in October, bringing traditional instrument players from Finland and Namibia together. The musical display – showcasing ancient instruments from Scandinavia and Namibia played by skilled musicians from the two countries – took place at the end of a Culture and Development workshop hosted by the Embassy of Finland.

Local Namibian artists, respected gatekeepers of ancient musical traditions, and a visiting delegation of folk musicians from the Sibelius Academy – the most respected musical academy in Finland – took part in the concert.

The aim of the workshop was to provide a platform for discussion and exchange between the different cultural players in Namibia. Some of the questions discussed were how culture could enable development and how cultural players could contribute actively towards the implementation of national development plans.

The folk music department of the Sibelius Academy has cooperated with the University of Namibia (UNAM) Department of Visual and Performing Arts for the past ten years. The current cooperation, which is funded by the Ministry for Foreign Affairs, is aimed at establishing an ethno-musicological museum and enriching the local music culture by preserving and promoting traditional music, dance and instruments.

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WHAT’S NEW(S)?

WOMEN IN TOURISM join hands Women working in the tourism industry have quite a few stories to share. And this is exactly what they did at the inaugural Southern African Women in Tourism conference held in Windhoek during October. Women representing 15 countries in the SADC region converged at River Lodge to look at the opportunities provided in their sector and the challenges they had to face.

The conference, hosted by the Regional Tourism Organisation of Southern Africa (RETOSA), was aimed primarily at brainstorming to compile a to-do list of activities that will help them establish viable, long-term success within their chosen profession.

International studies have shown that women are well represented within the tourism industry, but tend to work at service or clerical rather than professional or decision-making levels. Moreover, women are less likely to be graduates in this sector than in any other. Women’s presence in leadership roles, such as ministers of tourism and chairing tourism boards, is significantly lower than that of men. On the plus side, studies have found that women are twice as likely to be employers in the tourism industry than in any other sectors where more women than men are employed.

The conference was geared towards discussing these matters and sharing personal success stories as a motivation for others to succeed. Most importantly, it was aimed at uniting the women by forging a unique and consolidated voice.

UNLOCKING THE SECRET aromas of the desert

Sophia Snyman, owner and creator of Desert Secrets cosmetic products, launched an exciting new range of body-care products in October 2014. The event served both as a fun social gathering for invited guests and as an exhibition of the new Desert Secrets range and packaging designs.

A lifelong passion for Sophia has culminated in a brand that is fast-growing and gaining popularity every day. Sophia started the venture as a hobby in her kitchen, from where she was soon dispelled to the garage. She has since upgraded to a professional studio where she and her right-hand woman, Magdalena, create their sensory delights. Sophia jokes that her products are merely proof of ‘God’s love manifested in molecules’, and could barely contain her gratitude towards everyone who has helped her along the road to where she is today.

The brand’s new packaging has a fresh, clear and open design, letting consumers in on the secrets of the desert by sharing knowledge and ingredients. So make your way to 1 Parsival Street in Windhoek’s Southern Industrial Area, where you will be met with a wide smile and warm greeting from Sophia, and invited to indulge in her wide range of handmade 100%-natural-Namibian body-care products. The Desert Secrets range is also for sale at the Namibia Craft Centre in Tal Street.

Contact Sophia at +264 81 275 5283 or desertsecrets@afol.com.na for more information.

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Photo courtesy of: Paul van Schalkwyk

FAST FACTS ON NAMIBIA GENERAL Surface area: 824 268 km2 Capital: Windhoek Independence: 21 March 1990 Current president: Hifikepunye Pohamba Multiparty Parliament Democratic Constitution Division of power between executive, legislature and judiciary Secular state—freedom of religion (90% Christian) Freedom of the press/media

ENVIRONMENT Nature reserves: 15% of surface area Highest mountain: Brandberg Other prominent mountains: Spitzkoppe, Moltkeblick, Gamsberg Perennial rivers: Orange, Kunene, Okavango, Zambezi and Kwando/ Linyanti/Chobe Ephemeral rivers: Numerous, including Fish, Kuiseb, Swakop and Ugab

FLORA 14 vegetation zones 120 species of trees 200 endemic plant species 100 plus species of lichen Living fossil plant: Welwitschia mirabilis

ECONOMY Main sectors: Mining, Fishing, Tourism & Agriculture Biggest employer: Agriculture (46%) Fastest-growing sector: Tourism Mining: Diamonds, uranium, copper, lead, zinc, magnesium, cadmium, arsenic, pyrites, silver and gold, lithium minerals, dimension stones (granite, marble, blue sodalite) and many semiprecious stones

PHYSICAL INFRASTRUCTURE

FOREIGN REPRESENTATION

Roads: 5 450 km tarred, 37 000 km gravel Harbours: Walvis Bay, Lüderitz Main Airports: Hosea Kutako International Airport, Eros Airport, 46 airstrips Rail network: 2 382 km narrow gauge 6.2 telephone lines per 100 inhabitants Direct-dialling facilities to 221 countries Mobile communication system: GSM Agreements with 117 countries/255 networks Postal Service: affiliated to the Universal Postal Union

More than 50 countries have Namibian consular or embassy representation in Windhoek.

For information, contact Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Information and Broadcasting—Tel (+264 61) 282 9111

SOCIAL INFRASTRUCTURE

MONEY MATTERS

One medical doctor per 3 650 people Two privately run hospitals in Windhoek with intensive-care units Medical practitioners (world standard) 24-hour medical emergency services

POPULATION 2.1 million Density: 2.2 per km2 240 000 inhabitants in Windhoek (15% of total) Official language: English 13 regions, 13 ethnic cultures 16 languages and dialects Adult literacy rate: 85% Population growth rate: 2.6% Schools: 1 450

FAUNA Big game: Elephant, lion, rhino, buffalo, cheetah, leopard, giraffe 20 antelope species 240 mammal species (14 endemic) 250 reptile species 50 frog species 676 bird species Endemic birds including Herero Chat, Rockrunner, Damara Tern, Monteiro’s Hornbill

TAX AND CUSTOMS All goods and services are priced to include value-added tax of 15%. Visitors may reclaim VAT. Enquiries: Ministry of Finance— Tel (+264 61) 23 0773 in Windhoek

Currency: The Namibia dollar (N$) is fixed to and equals the SA rand. The South African rand is also legal tender.

Traveller’s cheques, foreign currency, International Visa, Master Card, American Express and Diners Club credit cards are accepted

DRINKING WATER Most tap water is purified and safe to drink.

Visitors should exercise caution in rural areas

TRANSPORT Public transport is NOT available to all tourist destinations in Namibia.

There are bus services from Windhoek to Cape Town/Johannesburg/Vic Falls/ Swakopmund. Namibia’s main railway line runs from the South African border, connecting Windhoek to Swakopmund in the west and Tsumeb in the north.

There is an extensive network of international and regional flights from Windhoek. Domestic charters to all destinations.

www.namibiatourism.com.na

POPA COMES OF AGE Text and photographs Annabelle Venter

It’s 26 years since I first visited Popa Falls with my sister. We were young, single, straight from Cape Town and on A Big Adventure. The road between Rundu and Katima Mulilo was gravel and in some places a bit sandy, but we had a ‘have car, will travel’ kind of attitude.

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n those days only geologists and farmers had four-wheel drive vehicles, so we made the journey in my sister’s 1975 Ford Escort, packed to the roof with provisions! Our trip coincided with the withdrawal of the South African Defence Force from the Caprivi Strip and it turned into a difficult and treacherous journey while dodging huge army vehicles in heavy clouds of dust as they thundered past in the opposite direction.

We giggled in the gloomy showers (no electricity), made tuna pasta in the communal kitchen, swam in the river, discovered beautiful new colourful birds, and checked our beds at night by torchlight for creepy-crawlies, as there was no electricity in the bungalows either. Mice and bats kept us company in the huts, and a female tourist from an adjoining hut asked to sleep in the spare bed in ours because the wildlife in her hut was keeping

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her awake and terrified! We could hear the hippos honking down in the river and owls screeching through the open mesh walls, holes patched with tissues to keep the mosquitoes out. In the morning a pale, fat snake slithered away while we packed the car.

In the 1980s – the age just before tourism took off – Popa Falls Rest Camp was one of only a handful of tourist accommodation establishments between Rundu and Katima. It seemed to us that only expats and a few tough folk who worked in the area were crazy enough to brave the appalling roads to see these far-flung reaches of the then South West Africa, and we loved the Popa Falls Camp in all its rustic simplicity. Nowadays tar roads slice through the area, and there’s a plethora of places to choose from with something to suit every pocket and taste.

POPA FALLS REST CAMP

So my husband and I wondered how the new Popa Falls accommodation would fare with the competition. It was with a mixture of anticipation and wistfulness for what might have gone forever that we booked two nights at the end of our annual Botswana roundtrip.

Entering the smart new gates, we’re alert and on the lookout for changes, but initially the camp seems familiar with the old reception house still there, spruced up with a new coat of paint.

Then, proceeding down the winding road to reception, the new Popa starts to emerge. Where the old ablution blocks once stood is now a smart and welcoming reception area. We are welcomed cheerfully by Selma, who directs us to our chalet.

Our first impressions are that staff members are happy, and that the buildings blend tastefully into the environment. The soft sound of rushing water is present. The complex has undeniably been designed to maximise its proximity to water.

On the way to our chalet, we drive past the campsites, which seem quite open and hot in the midday sun and, of course, far from the river, situated uphill behind the reception/restaurant complex. Grass is being planted, but there is little shade for most of the sites. Assistant manager Frans Mbambi assures me that trees will be selected and planted there soon.

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SUMMER 2014/15

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Arriving at the chalet we slowly walk up the ramp to the deck, not wanting to miss a single feature. A marvellous leafy, cool and peaceful space greets us, the small river mere metres away. Beyond the river lies the island and beyond that, the main channel of the Okavango River, just above the famous falls. There is time to explore later, so we direct our attention to the house. Massive glass doors open the entire room out onto the deck, and pulling back the sheer chocolate-coloured curtain reveals a cool, spacious and sophisticated interior – pure luxury after ten days in our rooftop tent!

We can’t help smiling at this dramatic contrast to those old rustic and windowless bungalows we used to love! We decide we must be getting older and softer, because this is now definitely more appealing! We find no less than four different sitting areas in our chalet, oversized beds, loads of white cotton bedlinen, a kitchenette with fridge and kettle, an airconditioner, and a lovely spacious bathroom with mirrors to match both our heights. We can even watch giant kingfishers from the shower! Popa Falls has definitely come of age.

We spend the next two days watching the forest dancing before our eyes: giant kingfishers mating in front of our house, a white-browed coucal foraging in the papyrus reeds, a water monitor sliding into the water, and the ever-present choir of birdsong. I think I even saw an otter slip into the water.

Eventually we prise ourselves away from our oversized sofa to sample some of the activities now on offer at Popa.

On the first afternoon we decide to take a trip on the river with boatman Claus Kapinga, who hails from the nearby village of Divava. Claus joined Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR) in December last year, after working for 25 years at Suclaba (now Divava) Lodge next door. He’s been a boatman for much of that time, so he knows this river like the back of his hand. We’re driven to the launch site – which varies according to the height of the river – by John Lyonga, an old acquaintance who took us on a game drive at Onkoshi last year. John is the first guide to be appointed at Popa Falls. He

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takes visitors to the Mahango Game Reserve, and also to the Bwabwata National Park across the river. He’s a careful driver and clearly loves his job.

NWR has two flat-bottomed boats, one 10-seater, and one double-decker 30-seater for larger groups. There is a fee per person for a two-hour trip on the river. Drinks are extra and need to be ordered beforehand, although iced water is provided. The river and its banks are full of hippos – three of them bare their teeth aggressively at the boat. Then a malachite kingfisher flits from reed to reed, a white-fronted bee-eater darts in an out of the rushes, and several small crocodiles laze around on the reed-bed. We wave to fishermen who proudly show off their tiger-fish catch. The boat travels as far as Divava village before returning for a sunset view of the falls. A half-hour jaunt just to see the falls can also be booked for those short on time.

The next morning I spend a while with the assistant manager, Frans Mbambi, who also comes from nearby Divava village.

He tells me the new Popa Falls Rest Camp was opened in November 2013 and now has 16 two-bedded rooms. Six of these are duets linked by inter-leading doors, making them suitable for accommodating families. These units face the bush and each has an outside private braai amenity. The rest of the chalets face the small river. There are two large communal braai areas for those wanting to self-cater.

Four more luxury chalets facing the main river and the falls (which are more like rapids) have been completed on the island.

They are situated on a 3–4-metre-high boardwalk, since hippos graze on the island at night, and will be opened in November once the furniture has arrived. I was interested to see that the old footbridge linking the island to the mainland is still there, and that the new bridge has been constructed right next to it with similar materials as a nod to the old Popa. Frans tells me that a botanist from Rundu will help identify and label the trees on the island, and that a small walking trail is being planned there for daytime use.

It’s a magical tangled forest in which I saw several birds I couldn’t identify.

Accommodation at Popa is offered at a bed-and-breakfast rate, while a terrace restaurant overlooking the rapids serves à-la-carte meals. You can watch giant kingfishers and darters fishing while you dine. Occasionally – if there are large groups – a buffet dinner will be served.

Guests can cool off in a small swimming pool next to the Pool Bar. A brisk little walk (past the old campsites) will take you to the Jetty Bar. This is a wooden deck on the white sandy beach, just below the falls. While beautifully situated, it seemed rather unappealing in the midday heat (with no sunshades open and a TV on full blast!).

Activities include the boat trips mentioned above, day-long game drives to both parks, and half-day game drives. A combination game drive and boat trip in the Mahango Game Reserve is being planned, with one of the boats permanently being moored there.

We concluded our visit by taking a game drive into the Bwabwata National Park with our friend John. We were out for three hours, driving a full 20 km within the reserve, mostly meandering along the floodplain, watching hippos and a variety of birds. We were lucky enough to glimpse a male sable antelope and three elephants coming down to drink as we returned to camp, but were saddened to see how nervous the animals were. Hopefully they will become habituated to the vehicles with time and realise that there is no threat from them. The South African army was based in this park before independence, and current recurring poaching incidents have made the animals understandably skittish.

When all is said and done, our visit to Popa was most enjoyable. We felt that the spirit of the previous camp had been maintained, and left feeling that we would like to return simply to relax and watch the forest! TNN

Also on the cards, according to Frans, is catch-and-release fishing in the Mahango Game Reserve. Consent has already been given by the Ministry of Environment and Tourism for this.

Surprisingly a spa with a resident beauty therapist is also planned for the future – as if the ambience is not relaxing enough already!

Frans says the former staff members of Popa Falls Rest Camp have been moved temporarily to other NWR resorts for training and to teach them new hospitality and office skills. The current staff members – who were selected to open the resort – are on contract for a year. After this the intention is to, as far as possible, bring back the old staff members who are local residents.

NWR guides Claus and John

AN INSPIRING BREAKFAST TALE TOLD BY FRANS An elderly gentleman arrived at Popa earlier this year on a special quest to find someone from long ago. This gentleman had been a hunter who visited Popa Falls in the 1970s when it was still a hunting camp. One day he saw two young brothers walking along the river’s edge, one of them carrying a water bucket.

Suddenly a crocodile heaved itself out of the water and grabbed the younger brother by the leg. The older one held onto his brother by the arm and tried to beat off the crocodile with the bucket, but to no avail, and the younger boy was dragged into the river. The man had his gun with him, so without hesitation he followed the animal into the water, shot it and retrieved the little boy.

Dining terrace with a view

Frans tells us that unfortunately they hadn’t been able to find the survivor while the gentleman was visiting.

However, the resort manager has since confirmed that he is known to him and still lives in the surroundings.

Perhaps these two brave men will still be able to meet up one day after all!

The 30-seater double-decker

SURFING the SKELETON COAST Text Will Bendix Photography Alan van Gysen

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DIAMONDS IN THEETOSHA ROUGH

Harsh.

That’s how lifelong devotee Rod Braby describes being a surfer along Namibia’s rugged shores.

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“

The water is cold, and there are lots of top predators, kelp beds, desert sands, sulphur and onshore winds,” says Braby, former president of the Namibian Surfing Association. “But as the famous Greenpeace activist Paul Watson said: ‘Embrace the ocean with respect and love, and it will reward and treat you well’.”

It’s a philosophy that many Namibian surfers have lived by for decades, biding their time and braving the elements while quietly enjoying hard-earned waves from Lüderitz to Swakopmund, where most of Namibia’s surfing population is concentrated. Historically the rest of the surfing world has overlooked the country’s 1,572 km of daunting coastline.

But in 2008 an expedition by an American surfing magazine changed all this when it revealed a

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wave peeling for two kilometres along the edge of the Namib Desert. The wave, dubbed Skeleton Bay, was so perfect and cylindrical it allowed surfers to ride deep inside the curl from start to finish.

Word of this phenomenon quickly spread across the globe and today the tubes of Skeleton Bay are as coveted as the diamonds that wash up along Namibia’s shores. Well, by surfers at least, who jet in from as far afield as Hawaii and Australia to pit themselves against the never-ending wall of water.

However, contrary to popular belief, Skeleton Bay was surfed long before 2008. In fact, a group of Namibian diamond divers used to ride it on their windsurfers back in the 1980s.

“There just wasn’t really a wave back then,” says Heiko Metzger, a former national windsurfing champ and ardent surfer. “We would head out and ride the winds, and between sessions watch this perfect little wave peeling for about 100 metres before closing out. We often thought about surfing this much shorter wave, but the two-knot current was just too draining to deal with. Besides, it was great with a sail.”

Metzger’s 100-metre wave grew into a two-kilometre freak of nature, surpassing iconic surf spots such as Jeffreys Bay that took millennia to form.

A 2012 study using satellite imagery backs up Metzger’s recollections, claiming that the shape of Skeleton Bay has changed dramatically over the past forty years due to large amounts of sand moving northward along the sand spit that creates the wave. One geological study estimates that nearly one million cubic metres of sand flows past Skeleton Bay per year.

But Skeleton Bay is not the only spot worth surfing in Namibia.

The coastline is littered with excellent reefs, bays and beaches, stretching from Lüderitz to well beyond Swakopmund.

Scientists believe a subtle shift in the mean wind direction since the late 1970s is responsible for the evolving landscape. As the predominant southerly wind continued to blow and move sand along the coast,

Namibian locals were riding this revamped wave well before 2008, when it suddenly became the surfing world’s new benchmark for the perfect wave.

The road between Walvis Bay and Swakop is a good place to start, offering a series of good waves that are easily accessible.

Guns, the most well known of these, is a powerful left-breaking reef that was Namibia’s most famous wave before Skeleton Bay stole the limelight. However, it’s still an excellent ride.

Thicklip, as the name suggests, is another powerful break in Swakopmund, which is also home to the Wreck, Lockjoint and Tiger Reef, all favouring light winds.

Further north is Cape Cross, an incredibly fun and long left-hander that sits in the Cape Cross Nature Reserve.

WHAT YOU NEED TRANSPORT: The waved coastline from Walvis Bay to Swakopmund and around Lüderitz can generally be accessed by a normal sedan, but you’re going to need a capable 4x4 for any exploring beyond this, and to reach Skeleton Bay. Certain stretches of coastline are off-limits or require permits. Make sure you know which these are before you set out.

RUBBER: A good, thick wetsuit is essential, summer or winter, due to the cold Benguela Current that flows northwards up Namibia’s shores combined with the nutrient-rich upwelling, which can send water temperatures plummeting.

A 4/3 millimetre wetsuit with a built-in hood is the best option. Booties and gloves will keep you toasty and won’t be amiss on the coldest days.

EQUIPMENT: Namibia’s waves are powerful and pack a punch. A thicker board for more paddle-power is a good idea, and some extra glassing for strength will help ensure the survival of your board. Skeleton Bay especially snaps boards like toothpicks. There are a couple of surf shops in Walvis and Swakop, but it’s not a bad idea to stock up on goods such as extra leashes and cold-water wax before you arrive.

BEST SEASON The best time for waves is from May to September, when the cold fronts that hit South Africa send swell up the west coast to Namibia. Skeleton Bay requires a very large swell to get going and can handle the predominant southerly wind, but many of the other breaks operate on smaller swells and calm conditions. If you’re going to surf these other waves, early morning is often the best time before the southerly wind picks up and ruins them. Skeleton Bay is an exceptionally powerful wave and is not suitable for beginners. There is huge potential to explore for other waves, but make sure you’re properly equipped and do your homework beforehand, or you may be turned back from off-limits areas or, worse, get stuck.

Access can be a problem though and authorities have declared surfing off-limits at various times of the year, due to it being home to the largest breeding colony of South African (Cape) fur seals in the world. It’s best to check with nature conservation officials to see what the status is rather than risk a heavy fine or upsetting the flippered residents.

Crowds are the least of your worries when surfing in Namibia.

In fact, most of the time you may be looking for someone to share the beach with other than the desert jackals that roam the shoreline.

Braby, who is a nature conservationist by profession, says that no matter where you go, the number-one rule to remember when surfing in Namibia is to respect the environment. Do this, and you’ll get the most out of the experience, and score magic waves just with good friends and the South African fur seals.”

Go explore… You might find your own diamond in the rough!

BASE YOURSELF

Francois Loubser and his wife Lala run an excellent B&B in Walvis Bay, and the Loubsers are well versed in accommodating surfers. Francois also has 4x4s to hire, offers a host of other activities, and is an encyclopaedia of knowledge on birdlife, wildlife and all things Namibian. Look up the Loubsers on: www.loubseraccommodation.com There are several other guesthouses and accommodation establishments in Walvis, Lüderitz and Swakop where you can base yourself near the beach.

Check online at www.staytoday.com.na for accommodation options. TNN

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2014 LÜDERITZ SPEED CHALLENGE EXTREME SPEED-SAILING EVENT The Lüderitz Speed Challenge – now in its seventh year – attracted 36 riders of 15 different nationalities, among them legends in the speed-sailing world such as Anders Bringdal from Sweden, Eric Beale from the UK and Thierry Bielak and Sébastien Cattelan from France. Once again many national records were broken, including a brand-new Disabled Kite Surf Speed World Record by Chris Ballois (France).

Performances, skills, experience and equipment – all were all pushed to the limit. The ‘spot’ – as it is known amongst the competitors – is not for debutantes or those of nervous dispositions. You need courage, total focus and a bit of Lady Luck, as we’ll be travelling down the canal at speeds exceeding 80 km/h (43 knots)!

Researching and developing the canal has improved even more this year, thus allowing faster speeds in less wind. The spirit of this unique event is to share, learn and compete in a community. Namibia is the country where this atmosphere is felt just about everywhere, and Lüderitz has become the Namibian destination that has revolutionised the speed-sailing sport. It has inspired the speed industry throughout the world, upgrading other events and generally increasing interest in the sport. With national records broken and re-broken at least 25 times, and with a brand-new Disabled World Record, the 2014 event was exciting and in some ways even more exhilarating than previous Lüderitz Speed Challenge Events.

Chris Benz

So here’s to 2015! www.luderitz-speed.com

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Follow your

MOON SHADOW

Text Elzanne Erasmus Photographs Paul Sutton and Elzanne Erasmus

Paul Sutton

There’s a world of fun to be had on two wheels, even if they’re bouncing up and down almost uncontrollably. I gained this tidbit of knowledge while on a recent adventure in the south of Namibia with the Desert Knights Tour.

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Paul Sutton

THE DESERT KNIGHTS TOUR

T

he trip is a six-day mountain-bike event that is held annually in the /Ai-/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, drawing avid mountain bike enthusiasts from across Namibia and South Africa. The riders take on the 280-km cycling route across spectacular desert landscapes, with daily rides starting in the late afternoon and often ending well into the night under the light of the full moon.

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I set off early in the morning from Windhoek and headed south to the Fish River Canyon, the starting point of the tour, fully prepared for whatever these mountain bikers would throw at me. Little did I know that in six short days I would be heading back along the same road with a new perspective on the value of two wheels – after meeting an eclectic group of people, each one different from the next, with a 59-year age gap between the youngest and the oldest rider, and having gone on excursions that had nothing to do with cycling, albeit everything to do with showing off the majesty of nature in Namibia.

The first day of the adventure was one big meet and greet.

Upon our arrival at Hobas Camp near the Fish River Canyon, a team of lovely ladies handing out goodie-bags welcomed the participants, as well as those of us who were tagging along.

We were kitted out with T-shirts, bags, hats and water bottles, all items we might need on the arduous desert journey lying ahead. As the sun neared the horizon it was time for the riders to mount their bikes and head off for the first leg of the journey, a round trip that would lead them back to Hobas, but only after taking them over rocky plains dotted with inquisitive mountain zebra and along the canyon’s edge to the new Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR) lookout point.

I dutifully followed along a different road with the crew gameviewer to the lookout point and watched the sun set behind the far edge of the canyon while waiting for the – by now

surely exhausted – cyclists to arrive. The adventurers were not as tired as you might have expected though. Shortly after the sun had disappeared behind the western horizon, the sound of laughter, hoots and wheels gliding over rocky paths could be heard and the first group skidded into the lookout-point rest stop, exhilarated and bursting with excitement.

“Watch out for that big donga over there,” one of the riders exclaimed jokingly as their path led them close to the sudden drop-off into the canyon. The rest followed and soon enough the gravel road was littered with tiny bicycle lights making their way to where we were waiting. The twinkling row of lights and the bright moon were all that breached the darkness. About an hour later the riders set back towards camp, and after some well-deserved showers, the sitting-logs around the camp fire started filling up, the chatter in the night air increased in volume and jovial energy flowed. The excitement of the days to come was palatable after their first taste of desert cycling in their playground for the week.

I awoke on Day 2 to the sound of birds chirping, crewmembers hurriedly preparing breakfast and ‘Ooms’ snoring in nearby tents. As the day’s riding would start only in the late afternoon, a small group of us gathered to hike to a nearby waterfall with our affable guide, Samuel, who had discovered it while he was clearing the road for the cyclists the week before. We soon learned that the waterfall was minus the water and the

Paul Sutton

Elzanne Erasmus

“...soon enough the gravel road was littered with tiny bicycle lights making their way to where we were waiting.”

Taking on the Orange River

Ancient trucks – old and rusty, but beautiful

5-km hike was more like a 14-km trek. We had a ball of a time, nonetheless, indulging in a swim when we happened on water, sidestepping an irritable Cape cobra and getting up close and personal with a herd of mountain zebra as they trotted by, undisturbed since we weren’t thundering along in a heavy game-viewing vehicle.

“Our spirits were soaring as the cyclists, having traded their wheels for oars, splashed water at each other and enjoyed their ‘chill day’.”

The route on Day 3 led the riders off the beaten path (aka the corrugated gravel road) onto a 4x4 trail for a real off-road adventure. I drove ahead to join the crew at the half-way reststop mark and discovered some beautiful ruins in the middle of what seemed like nowhere, including an old trading outpost, a broken windmill, ancient cars and trucks, and a dilapidated church constructed with rocks and zinc sheets, long since fallen into decay.

On the fourth day of our adventure I decided that my bakkie needed a rest, so I left it behind in favour of a two-man kayak, in which we embarked on a 20-km paddle down the Orange River to our next camp. The sun beat down on our backs as we cruised along the smooth water surface, intermittently battling with rapids, some of us taking a quick involuntary dip in the refreshing river water. Our spirits were soaring as the cyclists, having traded their wheels for oars, splashed water at each other and enjoyed their ‘chill day’. Our day on the river gave me a taste of what the new Desert Kayak Trails are like in the /Ai-/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park. If one day on the river was that much fun, I can’t wait to spend four days taking in the wilderness while birding, fly-fishing and swimming, so sign me up!

Paul Sutton

Paul Sutton

We spent the rest of the day at camp, enjoying the pool, catnapping under the trees and resting up for the ride to come, which included a few gruelling uphill climbs in the late, stillhot afternoon sun. Soon, however, the rising moon lifted their spirits and the 72-km stretch of the second half of the day was spent in the significantly cooler light of the full moon. Geckos barking in the evening air and the calming breeze gave them courage for the rough corrugated terrain and scary bends, which were sending a thrill through our nighttime adventurers.

That evening we stopped over at the /Ai-/Ais Hot Springs

Resort, where the next morning some of the riders indulged themselves in the spa and hot pools, relaxing and becoming physically and mentally prepared for the challenge of the day.

REMARKS MADE DURING THE TRIP “Just keep following your own moon shadow.”

“Absolutely stunning!”

“What a jol!”

Gazing up at starry nights

“I don’t trust organisers of MTB events. Their distance meters don’t work, and their elevation meters don’t work either. They’re very good with people and they’re extremely nice and organised, but none of their meters work!”

“The sand is your friend!”

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Elzanne Erasmus

DID YOU KNOW? • That the /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park extends over a vast 5,920 km²?

• That it is the first of three transfrontier conservation areas that Namibia currently manages with neighbouring countries?

• That it is part of the Succulent Karoo biome, which harbours the richest succulent flora in the world – over 10,000 species?

• That it is one of only two entirely arid ecosystems to earn hotspot status internationally, the other being the Horn of Africa?

• That it is one of the last regions where the Nama people’s traditional nomadic pastoral lifestyle has been preserved?

• That the park boasts several tourism trails, which include hiking, river-rafting and mountain-biking routes and the newly established Desert Kayak Trails?

• That the conservation area is home to the Fish River Canyon, the 2nd-largest valley ravine in the world?

• That the Orange River is one of only five perennial rivers in Namibia, and serves as the southern border between Namibia and South Africa?

• That you can go through passport control at Sendelingsdrift and cross the border from South Africa to Namibia, and vice versa, on an operational pontoon?

We spent the fourth night camping on the riverbanks at the De Hoop campsite, enjoying a mouth-watering traditional Nama meal around the campfire and receiving some lessons in African drumming. I even learnt how to blow a gemsbok horn, because, as we know, vuvuzelas are very 2010.

Paul Sutton

Since we were now on the South African side of the border, having made an undesignated border crossing the day before, our penultimate day involved traversing steep mountain routes into the Richtersveld. I joined the media crew’s game-viewer truck as we followed the cyclists along the strenuous tracks and found an ideal spot to wait for each rider so that the tour photographer, Paul Sutton, could capture those all-important action shots as the cyclists whizzed by.

With the moon rising over the surrounding mountaintops, I revelled in the fact that there were people like these Desert Knights who enjoyed the mixture of nature and adventure this much. There’s something to be said for these knights on their iron-framed horses who brave the elements and

“There’s something to be said for these knights on their iron-framed horses who brave the elements and the unforgiving Namibian desert landscapes…”

Paul Sutton

Throughout the week the rest stops were the social hub of the tour. Here riders stocked up on water, Powerade and even beer, while they chatted animatedly about their twists and turns, spills and falls – and proudly showed off their battle wounds.

the unforgiving desert landscapes of Namibia to experience the world in a different way and challenge themselves to do something out of the ordinary. From the numerous conversations I was fortunate to have with several of the participants, I gathered that gliding across these terrains under the light of the full moon broadens your horizons and truly is a life-changing experience.

At breakfast on the final day Francois, the trip coordinator from NWR, told me that the riders always cycle fastest on the last day, and he was right. Like impatient horses being let out of a paddock, they set off in a flurry of wheels, their helmets bobbing and giving excited chirps, leaving only their dust and another great night under the African stars behind. Every rider we passed had a massive smile plastered across his or her face. After a morning of more uphill climbs and exciting single-

track trails, the riders finally made it to the end of the challenge – Sendelingsdrift. Here I had to say my sad goodbyes to newly made friends and hop onto the pontoon to cross the Orange River for the journey back to Windhoek. I left with a sense of reverie at these strong-willed individuals who had set off into desert nights to conquer the mighty /Ai-/Ais-Richterveld Transfrontier Park under a brightly-lit evening sky, chasing adventure and their own moon shadows. TNN

The trip accommodates approximately 100 participants.

The proceeds generated support the joint conservation initiatives in the transfrontier park.

You can book now for next year’s Desert Knights Tours, which will be held in both May and September, on at www.staytoday.com.na

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SWAKOP’S BEST BIRDING SPOT?

THE WALVIS BAY LAGOON! Text and photographs Pompie Burger

Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus)

BIRDING

Swakopmund is by far the most sought-after holiday destination in Namibia, especially during the December/January summer holiday season. If you have a house or a flat at Swakkies, you’re set to do the December holiday thing there. And if you’re part of the 99.9% of Namibians who have to run around at the last minute to find accommodation for Christmas (this part is for all the Swakopmund estate agents), I’ll take 5% on all sales, and no, Steve Brain is not an estate agent.

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B

ut, and this is a big but, December is not a good time to do your birding in Swakop. The light is invariably hopeless, as in zero sun, and the plethora of fishermen, quad-bikers and people preventing you from doing proper birding is simply innumerable. So when is the right time?

Obviously in summer (to see the migrants), probably just before the big influx of tourists in December, and after the tourist rush from mid-January till April. According to youknow-who, April – when many of the migrants start donning their breeding colours – is a very good time.

As most of my family know, I am not exactly a good Swakop birder or, for that matter, holidaymaker. I would much rather sit at Nambwa watching an African Fish-Eagle (Haliaeetus vocifer) landing another tigerfish or even better, watching a Western Banded Snake-Eagle (Circaetus cinerascens) taking a big, fat, slobby black mamba for dinner. Somehow this just seems to me a more appropriate, relaxed and fruitful activity than waiting for the sun to show its face, or swearing at yet another quad-biker driving over my corgis. Willie (Gewone Willie as in Sombre Greenbul) and Lizzy prefer Swakop to the Zambezi holiday, because they can accompany us to Swakopmund, but not to the Zambezi Region.

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To get to the birding part of Swakop: in this day and age spending the evening in the Brauhaus or Tug Restaurant is the best option for wining and dining. During the day the Village Café’s breakfast is a must. And if Andra is around, you’ll have the opportunity to see one of Namibia’s outstanding music export products. There are obviously many other options to consider, but thus far none of the other restaurants has ever offered me any special discounts, so let’s keep it simple.

For the keen golfer, the Rossmund golf course is a good addition to Swakop’s leisure activities. I do my annual golfing expedition to Rossmund during December, to the enjoyment and amusement of my co-golfer, Ian. Birdies and eagles are not that common during my one-off, extended visit to the golf course. Needless to say, an albatross does not feature in my golfing thesaurus. On the fairway of the 7th hole, there is often a Tractrac Chat (Cercomela tractrac race albicans) laughing at the struggling golfers, hammering away on the fairway, or in our case, in the rough. The reason I mention the golfing here is that Steve Brain is stationed at Rossmund, so if you lose your way on the fairway you can always pop in at the Brains for a cup of tea.

Sitting at Cobus and Marlize’s wedding ceremony on the beach in front of the hotel, I was amazed to see so many birds flying past. Were they looking at the ceremony (maybe they were part of the ceremony?) or was this their normal outing along the coast for the day? It was quite impressive, especially when a flock of probably over 500 Cape Cormorants (Phalacrocorax capensis) did a fly-past.

I forced myself to stop listening to Pastor Frans Robberts’s sermon for a few seconds to watch this spectacle. When telling one of my friends who has been living in Swakop for many years about this, he said: “Ag, that’s nothing. Many years ago I saw a flock of cormorants flying by that kept on for two days.” So there must have been a slight decline in their numbers!

Probably the best place to do your birding in the Swakopmund environs is at the salt works just a few kilometres north of town. Here I had the opportunity to see my first Chestnut-banded Plover (Charadrius pallidus) with Mark Boorman after my uninformed statement in an article on Walvis Bay a few years prior to this. Mark contacted me immediately and invited me to allow him to enlighten me on the finer intricacies of bird-watching in and around

Swakopmund. Apart from various other coastal birds and waders, we saw a Common Redshank (Tringa totanus), (as common as haemorrhoids?). I obviously didn’t realise immediately that this was rather a special sighting, until I read in Roberts that this bird is quite an uncommon migrant.

And I must admit that the salt works is not really the ideal setting for photography with salt in the background and salt in the foreground and salt even underneath the birds.

However, birders have this tendency to hang around dodgy places, and while beggars can’t be choosers, if you really want to see a Chestnut-banded Plover, you must go with the flow.

In town the sewage works is a beehive of activity, and for many a Namibian this is an excellent place to catch up on sightings of Maccoa Duck (Oxyura maccoa), Cape Shoveler (Anas smithii), Hartlaub’s Gull (Larus hartlaubii), Grey-headed Gulls (Larus cirrocephalus) and Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis). I have to mention here that the odour is rather overpowering, but not too bad if you can live with the odd turd floating by. What’s more, if you’re not too lazy to drive out to Walvis Bay, you might even see a few waders and gulls looking for food among the droppings.

Common Redshank (Tringa tetanus)

Kittlitz's Plover (Charadrius pecuarius)

Cape Teal (Anas capensis)

Little Egret (Egretta garzetta)

Summertime will enhance the bird count, with waders joining in to enjoy the overcast conditions. Although there is not much to add to the colour scheme, there are some interesting birds that will entertain the hardcore birder. Some of the regulars are the Red Knot (Calidris canutus), Ruff (Philomachus pugnax), Sanderling (Calidris alba), Little Stint (Calidris minuta) and Common Ringed Plover (Charidrius hiaticula) (not ringed by Dirk Heinrich), but I’m sure the serious birders will be able to add to this rather limited list.

Grey-headed Gull (Chroicephalus cirrocephalus)

On the C28 road to Windhoek you will cross the Swakop River, where you might well find the odd interesting bird, such as Kittlitz’s Plover (Charadrius pecuarius) and other plovers. The background is of a better quality than closer to the coast, and you might even have some sunshine to warm up your pictures. From here take the D1984 road to Walvis Bay. On your right-hand side you have an excellent chance of seeing Gray’s Larks (Ammomanes grayi) on the gravel plains.

Just south of Swakopmund is a favourite hangout for cormorants. This is by far the best setting for taking pictures, as it’s next to a Damara Tern (Sterna balaenarum) (not related to the well-known Hondebalia) breeding ground, and your chance of bumping into one of them hunting for food is quite good.

Lesser Flamingo (Phoeniconaias minor)

All in all, Swakopmund is an excellent holiday destination. For the serious birder there is always Batis Birding Safaris to show you around. Somehow the guides always seem to be enthusiastic about the birding in the area. As for me, I prefer the lush Zambezi Region for my entertainment, but Gewone Willie will agree that Swakop is rather special. I must admit, I’m a bad golfer, a bad swimmer and probably a very bad hardcore birder.

Somehow I think (I might get killed for saying this) Swakop’s best birding spot is the Walvis Bay Lagoon. TNN

Egyptian Geese (Alopochen aegyptiaca)

1 NEW FRIENDS TO KEEP CLOSE TO YOUR HEART

TNN SHOPPING

Tutungeni Namibian Craft Projects currently stocks a variety of beautifully made dolls that help to spread the gift of love around the world.

Namibian craftsmen and women from across the country use their hands and finely-tuned skills to create these lovely and detailed cultural dolls, each with its own unique name.

The Tutungeni project supports craftsmen and -women to create culturally rich items that reflect both the past and the future, while staying true to traditional skills and indigenous materials.

So go and make a new friend at Tutungeni at 14A Sam Nujoma Street, Swakopmund, or make contact through rohwer@iway.na to learn more about the crafts project and how you can help spread the love.

Cultural doll N$195

Compiled Elzanne Erasmus

Summer is the time of year when large numbers of Namibians flock to the coast to enjoy the sun, sand and holiday season. If you didn’t manage all your Christmas shopping while still at home, have no fear, because Swakopmund has a wide variety of well-stocked shops, brimming with locally-made products. So whether you’re looking for something to put under or even on your tree, pop down to the coast for some festive holiday delights.

2 MAKING HANDMADE WAVES Choose from a wide variety of handmade products at Make Waves in Swakopmund. The outlet stocks a variety of hand-embroidered cloths and linens, including a fun selection of dishcloths and towels that will brighten up your kitchen. The dishcloths are embroidered with scenes of wildlife in a kaleidoscope of colours. You could also take home a lovely new friend in the form of a bead-and-wire kudu, the perfect truly Namibian toy or adornment.

Find Make Waves in The Arcade, 22 Sam Nujoma Avenue, Swakopmund, or make contact at +264 64 46 1376.

Dishtowels N$170 Kudu N$295

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WHAT TO BUY 3 JOLLY AFRICAN CHRISTMAS TREES

Do you prefer a classic Christmas tree or are you more inclined towards something quirky and modern, made out of metal or driftwood? Whatever your style, it’s the decorations that make the tree, so whether you’re looking for something to put on or under your tree, look no further than ‘IKhoba. This eclectic outlet stocks the most creative selection of Christmas-themed ornaments and decorations in Swakopmund.

The range includes stars made of Coke cans, angels made of straw, and eccentric, flying metal warthogs, all of which will give your tree wings and make your family and friends smile throughout this merry season.

Find ‘IKhoba at 25 Sam Nujoma Avenue, Swakopmund, or make contact through +264 64 40 1134 or ikhoba@iway.na.

Coca Cola stars N$53

Winged wildlife N$79

Straw angels N$72

4 BECOME A CITIZEN OF THE REPUBLIK

Never forget that there is a ton of shopping to be done in the big city. And the hottest new shopping destination in Windhoek is by far The Grove Mall of Namibia. When stepping into the shiny new hallways, be sure to head straight for the ingenious clothing store My Republik for the most stylish and unique outifts. This is clothing that will make you look and feel proud to be Namibian.

My Republik owner, Ally Angula, has started a truly Namibian commercial clothing line, with her assortment of chic and beautiful garments for men and women. My Republik’s strong sense of purpose and unique brand are reflected in its mission statements plastered across the shop walls, describing what it offers as ‘a lifestyle brand that celebrates the freedom of expression and being, through a series of life choices that inspire’. Ally is focussed

on encouraging her fellow ‘citizens of the Republik’ to rejoice in their freedom to express themselves and their own unique style. With an amazing retail space on the upper level of the mall and an even greater team to help you pick the perfect look, My Republik is certainly setting out to be the must-shop spot for any fashionista. Follow this tantalising outlet on Twitter at @my_republik and Facebook at www.facebook.com/myrepublikclothing or make contact at info@myrepublikclothing.com.

The Signature printed pleat dress N$1,499 The Signature red pleat dress N$699 The Plan A pencil skirt N$499 Infinity scarf N$385

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FINDING TREASURE at CAPE CROSS Text and photographs Ron Swilling

DIRECTIONS Cape Cross is approximately 120 km north of Swakopmund on the C34. It’s easily accessible from Swakopmund and makes a good overnight stop on the way up to Torra and Terrace Bay or when en route to the Palmwag area via the Ugab Gate. The C34 along the coast is an interesting alternate route to reach Uis, Brandberg and Twyfelfontein.

Between desert and sea, a piece of windswept coastline featuring Cape Cross has drawn people over the centuries – for various reasons. A place that is littered with whale bones and flotsam and jetsam from many a shipwreck has also proven to be rich in treasure. Once attracted to this bleak coastline to reap its bounty, people are now drawn to it to rest, view seal antics, discover the rich history, explore the desert surrounds and listen to the sea dancing on the golden shore, far from the noise of the city.

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s I drove north from Swakopmund on the salt road that cuts across the desert plains like a vein of dusky dolerite, I thought of the first intrepid Portuguese explorers who braved the infinite expanse of ocean, treacherous coastline, storms and scurvy in their small wooden caravels. With only rudimentary equipment, they would have watched the stars and, perhaps, prayed to their god. In my mind’s eye I could see them in their small wooden vessels with white sails emblazoned with red crosses, looking ashore for signs of promise. They would be away from home for years, some never to return, as they searched for new trade routes and planted their crosses (padrões) in the name of their king. Diogo Cão erected a cross amidst the rocks at Cape Cross in 1486, calling the place Cabo do Padrão, before his fleet set sail for home without him. He mysteriously disappeared from the pages of history, and is believed to have died in the mountains to the south-east. His pioneering spirit and the name Cape Cross live on.

Driving past the small settlement of Wlotzkasbaken with its colourful houses equipped with water tanks, I wondered about life in these bleak desert surrounds. The journey to Cape Cross that now takes one and a half hours, took one and a half weeks a century ago. Without any fresh water it

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was an arduous journey for those who tested life’s resilience, seeing how far they could test providence. The road is flanked by gravel plains, a ribbon of blue sea towards the west and angling sites that are dotted down the shoreline, some marking the miles from Swakopmund, others with names harbouring colourful stories of their own.

Signboards announcing lichen fields became visible between puffs of mist that floated in from the ocean to gift the desert flora and fauna with life-giving moisture. Pulling onto the verge, I wandered between this symbiotic harmony of algae and fungi that delicately carpets the desert floor, paying my respect to the ingenuity of life, before continuing northwards past Henties Bay. A rustic display of tables began to appear on the roadsides – proof of an honesty system in practice. Small tables were festooned with pale-pink clusters of salt crystals and an assortment of old containers for buyers to deposit their donations. Leaving the road to those travelling further to Torra and Terrace Bay, I followed the signs to Cape Cross to explore this intriguing strip of desert that caused such a huge commotion more than a century ago.

SEAL RESERVE Diogo’s cross had stood sentry to crashing waves for nearly four hundred years, weathering the elements, battered by the wind and caressed by the Benguela mist as whalers pillaged the sea. In the late nineteenth century, the Damaraland Guano Company established an industry here for the rich bird droppings referred to as ‘white gold’, prized as fertiliser in Europe, and for seal pelts. Cape Cross boasted a police station, post office and the first stretch of railway (21 km of track) in the country, constructed to transport pelts and guano to awaiting ships. It can even lay claim to the first highway robbery when the postman was accosted between Henties Bay and Swakopmund. Who would have guessed?

A MIXED COCKTAIL OF DESERT AND SEA The history continues to be detailed on the walls of the small museum cum curio shop at Cape Cross Lodge, which has several whale bones propped at its entrance in honour of its mighty cetacean visitors. It fuses with the refreshing feel of the lodge that entices guests with a mixed cocktail of desert and sea – and a salty plump olive of a story for those wanting a bite.

Noticing a ‘whale room’ next to the entrance, with interesting snippets of information (definitely a place to return to for a better look), I made my way to the reception desk. A list of facts and figures was neatly displayed on a blackboard with all the information needed for a coastal retreat: tides, water temperature, prime fishing times, sunset and sunrise. Now this was my kind of place!

I had a few moments to appreciate the peace of my room, painted in the colours of sand and sea, and, thankfully, free of clutter, before going to the neighbouring seal reserve, a visit that always leaves me with the strong smell of seals in my nostrils and tons of tender images of seal accord. Once again I filled up memory cards, finding the quiet and perfect pictures in the cacophony. It reinforced some personal belief of an inner stillness in the hustle and bustle of life. This I felt again at the lodge as I watched a ruby sun sink slowly into the sea and allowed the clean colours and space to wash through me.

The sun dipped and a flock of cormorants flew overhead. Cape Cross’s mysteries and secrets lay waiting to be discovered and the irresistible peace hovered unexpectedly along the beach, eager to be lapped up. www.capecross.org

HISTORY MARCHED ONWARDS By 1903, the Damaraland Guano Company had reached the end of its road. After approximately nine years of production, the area had been stripped of guano and the seals had either fled or proved difficult to cull. A year before the ten-year concession agreement expired, the customs office, post office and police station closed down. The era had come to an end.

The concession to collect sealskins was passed on. After WWI it was revoked by the South African Government and later returned to the concession holder, who persevered with seal culling. In 2001, the old buildings were demolished to make way for the Cape Cross Lodge, which stands today on the shores of the Atlantic and the tumbling surf.

All that remains of the entrepreneurship and industry at Cape Cross is a rusty strip of railway line and a few weather-beaten wooden crosses that fill the small graveyard at the entrance to the seal reserve.

Replicas of Diogo’s cross mark the momentous spot. TNN

CAPE CROSS SEAL COLONY The Cape Cross Seal Reserve was proclaimed in 1968 to protect the largest South African fur seal colony on the Southern African coastline. Nowadays it draws increasing numbers of visitors every year. The seal population reaches its peak in the breeding season towards the end of the year, when up to 250,000 seals congregate on the rocky outcrop.

References

Bridgeford, P&M. Cape Cross: Past and Present, John Meinert Printers, 2002. Cape Cross Museum

DAISHO SUSHI and WINE BAR Windhoek has a new sushi bar. Located at Square Park in Ludwigsdorf, Daisho Sushi and Wine Bar opened its doors to the eating public on 2 September with proper pomp and ceremony.

TNN FOODIES Text and photographs Christie Keulder

The man behind the food at Daisho is Chef Makhosi Mhlanga, who – after plying his craft at Sushi and Teppanyaki Grill and sushi@nice restaurant and bar – decided to go his own way.

The sushi at Daisho Sushi and Wine Bar is contemporary and modern – proof that sushi has evolved into a truly global and African phenomenon.

Sushi, as we know it, dates back to around the 1820s when a young fast-food entrepreneur, Hanaya Yonhei, opened his first (sushi) stall in the city of Edo (modern-day Tokyo).

Yonhei is credited with developing two of the cornerstones of contemporary sushi: the ‘rapidfermentation’ technique whereby rice vinegar and salt are added to freshly cooked rice; and the method of ‘hand-pressing’, whereby a fermented rice ball is first shaped by hand and then draped with a piece of fresh, raw fish or seafood. Yonhei’s methods signalled a radical departure from the traditional nare-zushi (aged sushi) and mama-nare sushi (raw nare-zushi). Both these methods required fish to be fermented in rice for at least a month or more.

Yohei’s technique became known as nigiri, and is still the standard method for preparing sushi today.

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Chef Makhosi

Salmon platter

EATING OUT

Sushi chefs have no place to hide, especially when the house is filled to the brim with hungry patrons. With only a few fresh, raw ingredients to work with, no heat and no elaborate sauces to hide behind, the sushi chef’s successes and failures are laid bare for everyone to see. On opening night there were no failures; the arrival of each elaborate platter caused a mini stampede and this continued well into the night. It is evident that Chef Makhosi has built up a loyal following of sushi aficionados since his arrival in Windhoek in 2007. So expect the place to be busy.

All about sushi

Sushi developed into a truly global food after the 1960s when the first sushi restaurants opened in the USA and a bit later in Europe. In next to no time, sushi chefs started to add western ingredients such as cream cheese and spicy mayonnaise that had no links with the Chinese and Japanese sushi roots. Sushi also became part of vegetarian and vegan cuisine, and fishless dishes such as the Californian Roll rapidly became a menu staple for any self-respecting sushi restaurant.

In addition to a wide variety of platters and plated dishes, Daisho Sushi and Wine Bar also offers takeaway meals and home deliveries. For bookings and orders call Chef Makhosi on +264 81 431 8434. The establishment is open Tuesday to Sunday from 12:00 till 22:00. Takeaway orders are provided from 12:00 till 20:00.

Patrons at the opening were treated to assorted platters of delicious sushi that included variations with salmon, tuna, crab and prawns.

Salmon and tempura platter

In this hand is... sushi

Stilt walker welcoming guests

MAGUNI (monkey orange) ICE-CREAM RECIPE

Maguni ice cream

Maguni has the flavour of a very complex, tropical fruit salad and is the ideal local fruit for making frozen desserts such as ice cream, sorbet and parfait. It can also be used for tart fillings, jellies or dessert sauces. The fruit is available only during the rainy season (November to March) and can be bought along the main roads in the eastern and western Kavango and Zambezi regions. In Windhoek these fruits are sometimes available at local street markets.

The fruit has a thick skin that has to be cut open and removed to expose the inner core.

The core consists of a large number of pips with flesh attached (very much like a mango, although the pips are smaller, and magunis have much less flesh). The sought-after part is the juice. So work carefully and make sure that none is wasted. Once the skin is removed, put the core into a fine sieve or china-cap strainer set over a clean bowl, then press to extract the juice. It takes some effort, but the result is well worth it.

Keep going until all the juice has been extracted. The juice of up to six average magunis (depending on how ripe they are) is sufficient for making one litre of ice cream or a parfait large enough to serve six to eight people. The juice can also be frozen until needed. This basic recipe yields about 1.5 litres of maguni ice cream.

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Ingredients • 500 millilitres cream • 250 millilitres full-cream milk • 175 grams sugar • 250 millilitres maguni juice (juice of about 3 to 4 medium-sized magunis) • 4 egg yolks

Method 1. Pour the cream and milk into a saucepan over medium heat.

Bring to the boil.

2. Put the egg yolks and sugar into a mixing bowl and whisk until pale.

3. Add about one third of the warm cream and milk to the eggyolk mixture and whisk to temper the eggs. Keep whisking until combined (if you don’t whisk while adding the warm milk, the yolks will cook and scramble). Then, while whisking, add the remaining milk-and-cream mixture in two more batches.

Once all the milk and cream has been incorporated, return the mixture to the pot and cook while stirring. Heat the mixture to 80°C or until the custard has thickened sufficiently to coat the back of a spoon. It will take only a few minutes, but do not stop stirring or the mixture will stick to the bottom of the pan. Do not heat the mixture to more than about 80°C or the yolks will scramble, causing the custard to taste like sweet scrambled eggs.

4. Remove the custard from the heat and add the maguni juice.

Stir to combine. Once combined, strain the mixture through a fine sieve into a clean bowl set over an ice bath. Allow the mixture to cool completely, then cover with a layer of cling plastic laid directly onto it (this prevents the development of a skin). Transfer to your refrigerator and leave overnight for the flavours to develop fully.

5. Pour the cold custard into the bowl of your ice-cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Once churned, spoon into a plastic, airtight container and freeze for a few hours to allow the ice cream to mature and harden.

Fresh maguni fruit

Text and photographs Ron Swilling

When the mist hangs over Swakopmund like a heavy theatrical curtain and you feel the urge to drive out into the sunshine for fabulous desert fare, head out on the B2 for approximately ten kilometres and make a turn towards the Swakop River smallholdings. An enjoyable Saturday outing awaits, one that you’ll soon include into your Swakop visits once you’ve made your first foray into the intriguing area.

A German favourite – Rohhack

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his is where the green vein of the ephemeral Swakop River winds its way through the desert, creating a lifeline in the arid landscape. It is a fertile pocket where salad greens are grown, and small home industries and weekly markets have emerged.

Your first stop is Shalom Farm, where a grove of palm trees provides shade and a relaxed setting for breakfast, brunch, lunch or a cup of coffee and cake. Bronwin Ockhuys and Stefan-Anthony Jooste have teamed up to provide tasty nourishment and an assortment of fresh vegetables, continuing a successful Saturday morning tradition that has become popular over the years.

Bronwin runs the creative café, keeping locals content with German favourites such as Rohhack (raw mince), Rauchfleisch (smoked meat) and Fleischsalat (meat salad) on brötchen, while introducing new and extraordinary delights including freshlysqueezed vegetable juices, gigantic pretzels, chocolate redwine cake and red-velvet cupcakes (cupcakes with a beetroot base and cream-cheese icing). It’s ‘a little out of the box’, she admits happily, adding how her food has proved so popular that customers have begun to request takeaways to enjoy at home afterwards.

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SATURDAY

SWAKOP RIVER

Swakopmund green asparagus

The groups of people sitting at tables adorned with sunflowers or olive-tree sprigs usually do their shopping before sitting down to enjoy chatter and café cuisine. Market tables are filled with an appetising selection of vegetables, including fresh asparagus, which thrives on the salty river water, bottles of olives and olive oil, homemade herb mayonnaises, mustards and breads (made by Bronwin), pickled cucumbers and tomato chutneys (made by Stefan) and smoked meat, sausages, cabanossi and other meat products from the Sophia Dale farm down the road. The responsibility of growing and harvesting the vegetables rests in Stefan’s capable hands. His horticulture degree has provided him with the know-how and his green fingers do the rest. The duo is working towards making the market and café as environmentally friendly as possible with a range of vegetables that Stephan calls ‘worm-friendly’ and a selection of free-range meat products.

It’s a peaceful scene with children playing on the jungle gyms and swings while the adults indulge in the joys of life.

Shalom Farm: open every Saturday from 8:45–14:00 www.farmshalom.com +264 81 149 5222

DESERT FARE Further down the Swakop River road (4.8 km, to be exact), just when you become slightly concerned that you’re driving off into desert emptiness, a sign marks the turnoff to Desert Hills, another small oasis in the desert. Husband and wife, Volker and Stefanie Hümmer, began pressing the seeds from !nara melons in 2008, producing a rich, nutty oil. !Nara is a hardy – and prickly – desert plant that is harvested by the Topnaar people who live in the Kuiseb River Valley. The team recognised the value of using the nutritious oil, high in fatty acids, for their products.

While Volker, a chef by profession, used the !nara oil to create flavoured oils and salad dressings, Stefanie began to produce !nara cosmetics. They open their bistro and deli/farm stall to the public on Saturdays. Volker says that it is more correct to call it by its German term, Hofladen, which indicates that the shop sells produce made or grown on the premises. The deli has a grand selection of interesting and tantalising goods – most made with !nara oil, freshly picked vegetables grown

in Stefanie’s garden or along the Swakop River, and her !nara ‘body food’ range.

Lunch is self-service and varies from week to week. It includes a choice of bakes cooked in the wood-fired oven, warm meals (usually game with an exciting sauce), cold platters, colourful salads, rounded farm-bread slices with tasty toppings, dessert and homemade ice cream.

It’s the unusual desert touch that makes the Swakop River Saturdays so appealing: the fascinating fare found so serendipitously in the desert, from asparagus and olives to !nara oil, and the drive into the otherworldly environment.

Saturdays are transformed into adventures and taste sensations in the small desert destinations where you can happily eat, shop and while away blissful holiday hours. TNN Desert Hills: open Saturdays 11:00–16:00 (closed February and September) www.nara.com.na +264 81 129 0375

Under the palms at Shalom Farm

1903 British gatepost en route to Walvis Bay

Lunch at Goanikontes

DAY-TRIPPING in the DESERT Text and photographs Ron Swilling

There’s something about being out in the desert that is powerful beyond measure. I’m not sure if it’s about tuning into the ancient energy, being alone in a place where you can hear the silence thunder in your ears, or just the completely out-of-the-ordinary nature of it. Whatever it is, the desert on the outskirts of Swakopmund is simply breathtaking.

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nd that was the response I received when I asked the couple I had just met to describe this extraordinary landscape. I caught sight of them as I approached from the gravel road. They were sitting on the edge of the viewpoint just breathing it all in – the collage of earthy desert hills extending to the horizon. This was no rushed job for them, just pure relaxation, appreciation and pleasure. It made me reassess my manner of travel and reminded me to slow down and feel the presence of the mind-boggling vista around me.

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It had taken me years of visiting Swakopmund before I discovered that an enjoyable trip out into the desert is just a hop, skip and jump from the old German town. It has fast become a favourite journey. The adventure begins just out of town as you turn off onto a salt road towards the Namib-Naukluft Park. It crosses the Swakop River, edged by small tamarisk trees and dotted with flamingos, and veers eastwards and northwards to the desert oasis of Goanikontes.

DAY TRIPS FROM SWAKOPMUND I spent some time appreciating the spellbinding scenery before following my new-found friends to lunch, stopping at the beacons along the way. A series of numbered beacons placed by the Ministry of Environment and Tourism (MET) reveal wonders such as lichens, dollar bushes and old wagon paths.

Many a passing traveller had dripped water onto the lichens, causing them to glisten happily in the sunshine.

“Aaaaaah!” I couldn’t help exclaiming as I dropped down to Goanikontes, instantly realising that the road leads right into the landscape I had just been gawking at, goggle-eyed. I felt I was the privileged voyager in a fantastical realm who had been allowed entry into the magic kingdom. Soon the small hills surrounded me. A patch of verdant green appeared unexpectedly between the desert colours as I neared the Swakop River.

Benches on a green lawn and under a canopy of palms mark one of the most fascinating lunch spots in the Swakopmund surrounds. Known for its oasis character and historical appeal, it was a vegetable-growing centre at the beginning of the twentieth century. The charm of Goanikontes has been retained in the original farmhouse, taking you back in time to when Namibia was a German colony. Laughter and good company (and the presence of an inquisitive goat or two) added to the unusual green setting surrounded by stark mountains.

We realised with surprise that the shadows were beginning to lengthen and considered our choices for the rest of the afternoon. We could continue on the more bumpy track to the Welwitschia Plains past kilometres of mine construction, or circle back to Swakopmund via the B2. I opted to avoid the stony road in my small vehicle, deciding to rather join a guided tour to visit the welwitschias in a more secluded and secret

spot. Waving goodbye to my companions, I continued through the desert to pop out on the B2, heading westwards to the sea and the setting sun.

It was a day that I could happily place on the top shelf of my Swakopmund adventures. So, fellow travellers, buy your permit at the MET offices in the centre of town, pick up one or two good friends or family members, sprinkle a generous amount of wonder and appreciation, and set out for some remarkable day-tripping in the desert. TNN

AND NOW, INTO THE DESERT Head in an easterly direction on the B2 towards Usakos and Windhoek and make a right turn onto the C28 to the Namib-Naukluft Park/C34 to Walvis Bay. Veer left after approximately 4 km to follow the C28 towards Windhoek.

The signpost to the D1991 and Goanikontes is visible around the 10-km mark. The Moon Landscape viewpoint is reached after 14 km and the turnoff to Goanikontes is a further 2 km. It is only 3 km from there to the desert oasis. If choosing the circular route back to Swakopmund, continue for 18 km on the D1991 to the B2. It is 40 km on the tar to Swakopmund.

If driving to the Welwitschia Plains, backtrack 3 km from Goanikontes to the turnoff and continue for 17 km to a T-junction. Follow the signs for 17 km to the welwitschias, returning afterwards to the T-junction, which is 9 km from C28. From here, it is 35 km to the intersection (that is the C28 & C34 to Walvis Bay) and 4 km to reach the B2 and your starting point.

FIRST OF ALL… Permits for the Namib-Naukluft Park/Welwitschia Plains are available at the MET offices, in the NWR building, corner of Bismarck Street and Sam Nujoma Avenue.

Monday to Friday: 8:00–13.00 and 14:00–17:00 Weekends and public holidays: 8:00–13:00

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Summer is on its way and we’re all hoping for a generous rainy season.

Fortunately most Namibian trees and shrubs are well adapted to our irregular rainfall, and at the beginning of the summer season yield leaves without receiving that much water.

Mushara Lodge

TRAVEL TIPS for TREE LOVERS Text and photographs Luise Hoffmann

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MUSHARA COLLECTION

Situated 20 km east of Namutoni (10 km from the Von Lindequist Gate entrance) and offering game drives into Etosha, the Mushara Collection comprises Mushara Lodge, Mushara Bush Camp and Mushara Outpost, all under thatch. Mushara Lodge offers 10 bungalows, one family house, a room with three beds, two single rooms and two exclusive villas that provide complete privacy. The Bush Camp consists of 16 well-equipped tents, and at the Outpost there are eight tents on wooden platforms. All three establishments are beautifully positioned, serve excellent food including delicious meat and vegetable dishes, and provide efficient and friendly service at all times.

Combretum apiculatum subsp. apiculatum

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s in earlier articles under this heading, the trees and shrubs around the bungalows, campsites and along some of the hiking trails of the tourist destinations mentioned have been identified and tagged with the Southern African tree numbers. The botanical name appears at the back of the tag.

Ask for a list with the numbers, botanical and common names in English, Afrikaans and German at the reception facility of your lodge or camping establishment.

The tourist accommodation establishments named in this article are situated close enough to Etosha to enable you to drive into the park in the morning and out in the evening. Some of them even provide guided tours of Etosha.

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In total 35 different shrubs and trees have been tagged at Mushara. At all three locations the purple-pod terminalia (550) (Terminalia prunioides) is by far the most common species – in fact ‘mushara’ is the Oshiwambo name for this shrub or tree, which is very conspicuous in autumn when covered in flat twowinged dark-purple pods. Quite often you will find the creamy flower spikes on the same tree with the pods of an earlier flower flush, creating a very colourful contrast against the dark green foliage. The tall dark-stemmed tree with drooping foliage is the tamboti (341) (Spirostachys africana), well known for its scented wood, which may be placed among clothing to keep out moths and other insects. Trees with four-winged fruit and smooth, shiny green oval leaves with sharp, often twisted points are known as kudu-bush (532) (Combretum apiculatum subsp. apiculatum) since they are readily browsed, not only by kudu but also by many other game species. These three species are very typical of all the localities mentioned in this article. www.@mushara-lodge.com

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Sâsa Safari Camp

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SÂSA SAFARI CAMP

The Damara name sâsa means peaceful – an apt designation for Sâsa Safari Camp – and referring to a very neat campsite with a panoramic view of the Paresis Mountains conveniently situated 8 km south of Outjo along the Ugab Terraces. Each of the five campsites are equipped with power, water, chairs and a table. Bungalows are also available, while a volleyball field, a 3-km hiking trail and a pool provide space for various activities. The camp is only one hour’s drive from the Etosha National Park and is also within easy reach of day-trip outings to view the Ugab Vingerklip and Petrified Forest. It is also well situated on the main routes up to the Angolan border and other sightseeing destinations in the north-eastern Kunene Region, such as Epupa Falls and the Himba people.

The young manager, Donsie Schoeman, is very friendly and enthusiastic about running his camp. He is an excellent camp cook, and meals can be pre-ordered.

Twenty-one different species of shrubs and the trees along the hiking trail at the edge of the terraces have been identified and tagged. Both the shepherd’s tree (122) (Boscia albitrunca) and the smelly shepherds-bush (124) (Boscia foetida) can be found here. The latter owes its name to the fact that its flowers have a very unpleasant odour. Not to fear, however – they don’t grow near the campsite or bungalows. The leaves of the bird plum (449) (Berchemia discolor) have a distinct fishbone venation, and the yellowish fruits are edible and very sweet.

Much of the undergrowth consists of three different species of raisin bush – sandpaper (459.2) (Grewia flavescens), and mallow raisin (463.3) (G. villosa), and small-leaved cross-berry (463.10) (G. tenax). The fruits of all of these are edible and quite nourishing. However, compared to raisins, they are very dry with large pips covered by a thin layer of desiccated flesh. www.sasafaricamp.com

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TREES

Gyrocarpus americanus

MATUNDA GUEST FARM

Located 11 km north of Outjo off the Kamanjab road, Matunda Guest Farm is a comfortably equipped and affordably priced guest farm without excessive luxury. Accommodation is in five rooms with a total of 12 beds. Citrus fruit and vegetables are grown organically. Michael Jentzsch, the owner, is an accomplished cook and conjures up delicious meals.

A total of 37 shrub and tree species have been tagged here, seven of which are exotics often found in Namibian gardens.

North-western Namibia is well known for a large diversity of corkwood trees, and a healthy example of the velvet-leaved corkwood (280) (Commiphora mollis) can be seen right in the yard. A spreading dark-green Natal mahogany (301) (Trichilia emetica), occurring naturally only in the Eastern Zambezi Region (formerly Caprivi), provides shade in the garden.

A well laid-out hiking trail leads up a dolomite hill through open woodland behind the homestead. It features a large diversity of woodland shrubs and trees, most of which are found only on hills and among rocky outcrops. The wild grape (D8) (Cissus nymphaeifolia), with large, almost round toothed leaves and red grape-like fruit, is a climbing shrub. The butterfly-leaf (208) (Adenolobus garipensis), often a severely browsed shrub, occurs as a tree here, identifiable by its blue-green bilobed (two-lobed) leaves. The python vine (F4 ) (Fockea multiflora) may be a shrub, a small tree or quite often a strangler, and could well be the strangest plant found in this area. The strangler tendrils twine high into other woody species, snake along the ground until they find a tree to support them, or form a very large bulbous stem. The large, obscurely trilobed leaves of the propeller tree (120) (Gyrocarpus americanus) turn yellow to bright red before dropping quite early in autumn. The twowinged capsules develop after the leaves have fallen and are an unmistakeable feature of this tree.

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BUSCHFELD PARK RESORT

Only 2 km north of Outjo and 85 km south of Etosha, Buschfeld Park Resort consists of six very pleasant bungalows, each with its own veranda and braai facility, and five campsites, a restaurant, a bar and a pool

Sesamothamnos guerichii

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Of all the establishments mentioned in this article, Buschfeld Park Rest Camp offers the most for tree lovers, since it is surrounded by the greatest variety of indigenous trees and shrubs. It is also ideally situated along the road to Etosha.

Here visitors have a unique opportunity to become acquainted with the mountainous vegetation of northern Namibia, most of which is conveniently concentrated along the hiking trail up the hill behind the chalets.

Forty-seven shrub and tree species have been tagged, four of which are either exotic or occur naturally only in South Africa. Right along the entrance road you are greeted by the somewhat spooky Herero sesame bush (679) (Sesamothamnos guerichii), related to the plant from which sesame seed is derived. The bottle tree (648) (Pachypodium lealii) is easily identifiable by its bottle-shaped smooth trunk, while the spreading African star-chestnut (474) (Sterculia africana) has a lovely smooth white bark with purple patches that peels to reveal a green under-bark.

Fockea multiflora

3

You may have noticed trees with straight white trunks on other hill slopes – they belong to the carrot tree (569) (Steganotaenia araliacea) – and have beautiful bright-green, hanging leaves with finely-toothed margins. The resin trees, typically emitting a resinous scent when crushed, are represented by the common resin-tree (375) (Ozoroa paniculosa). The common kirkia (267) (Kirkia acuminata) with its large well-rounded crown grows abundantly on all mountains and hills from about Otjiwarongo northwards.

Buschfeld Park boasts many remarkable specimens of the python vine (F4) (Fockea multiflora), both as trees and as stranglers, with long sinuous branches scrambling for some kind of support. Lesser bushbabies, tree squirrels and a large variety of birds add to the attraction of this wonderful destination. Exotic trees often found in gardens and also seen here are white-stinkwood (39) (Celtis africana), a South African species often found on streets (for example in Independence Avenue in Windhoek) and in gardens.

Erythrina decora The Namib coral-tree (243) (Erythrina decora) is endemic to Namibia and grows only on hill slopes. Its flowers are similar to those of the coral trees found in many gardens in Windhoek.

The fruit is a dark, woody pod, conspicuously constricted between the red bean-like seeds with a black spot at the point of attachment.

The silky oak (A9) (Grevillea robusta) is not related to the European oak. It hails from Australia, belongs to the protea family and is planted in gardens for its orange flowers. The tree wisteria (222) (Bolusanthus speciosus), native to South Africa, makes a lovely display in spring when covered in dark-purple flower sprays. Also in spring the African flame tree or flamboyant (F9) (Delonix regia), native to Madagascar, is absolutely stunning when its bare branches are swathed in bright-red flowers.

www.natron.net/matunda

http://buschfeldparkrestcamp.com

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5

6

Commiphora glandulosa

Terminalia prunioides

Commiphora glaucescens

MOPANE VILLAGE ETOSHA

Colophospermum mopane

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Only 10 km south of Andersson Gate, the western entrance to the Etosha National Park, Etosha Mopane Village offers accommodation in 15 eco-friendly dome-like canvas and wood chalets with solar energy and the African donkey system of providing hot water. The chalets are well spaced to give guests privacy, each having its own en-suite bathroom. This lodge opened during the first half of 2014. Screening walls and enclosures are constructed interestingly, using mainly local materials, such as the ubiquitous calcrete rocks.

The six campsites have electricity, hot showers, private ablutions with a flush toilet and shower, and a private braai area, while a kiosk provides basic necessities. They are for self-caterers, while a braai-pack can be ordered from the lodge. The open-air dining area is under cover, and there is a communal boma area for evening campfires, a swimming pool and a restaurant.

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TALENI ETOSHA VILLAGE

This tented lodge, a mere 2 km south of the Andersson Gate (the entrance to Okaukuejo), is laid out in a circular pattern and enclosed by wooden palisades in the style of a traditional Namibian homestead. It offers 40 accommodation units, three restaurant seating areas, a bar with a large-screen television, two sparkling pools plus a kiddie pool and a fully-stocked utility and curio shop.

The individual luxury canvas suites are constructed on raised timber decks, offering a spacious, fully air-conditioned bedroom with a unique kraal-like en-suite bathroom.

Fourteen indigenous shrub and tree species have been tagged here. The camp is situated on black soil and calcrete. The vegetation, dominated by mopane (198) (Colophospermum mopane), is somewhat stunted.

Nevertheless, it offers a good opportunity to become acquainted with some of the species commonly found in Etosha, such as water-thorn (177.1) (Acacia nebrownii), kudu-bush (532) (Combretum apiculatum subsp. apiculatum), mouse-eared combretum (538) (Combretum hereroense), and the purple-pod terminalia (550) (Terminalia prunioides).

Twenty-one indigenous shrub and tree species have been tagged, including five different acacia species – yellow-bark acacia (164) (Acacia erubescens), red umbrella thorn (181) (A. reficiens), floodplain acacia (A. kirkii) (173), scented pod acacia (179) (A. nilotica), and three-thorned acacia (185) (A. senegal).

Since the last-mentioned three are less commonly found, you will have a good opportunity here to inspect them at close quarters.

The floodplain acacia has greenish-yellow to brown papery bark and the yellowish-brown seedpods have a characteristic pointed swelling over the seeds. The scented-pod acacia can be recognised by pods constricted between the seeds and a rounded bump over each seed. The green pod gives off an aromatic scent when crushed. True to its name, the three-thorned acacia distinguishes itself from all other acacias in Namibia by having thorns occurring in groups of three instead of in pairs.

The Namibian parsley tree (568.4) (Heteromorpha papillosa) has a strong herb-like scent, and flower and seed umbels similar to the well-known garden herb, while lekkervreet (K1) (Opilia campestris) may at times be hardly recognisable because it is a favourite browse of most herbivores, as implied by its common name lekkervreet, Afrikaans for ‘delicious to eat’.

The corkwood family is represented by the blue-leaved corkwood (276) (Commiphora glaucescens) with blue-green leaves and coppery bark peeling in papery strips, the velvetleaved corkwood (276) (Commiphora mollis) with softly hairy compound leaves, and the common corkwood (285.1) (Commiphora glandulosa) with shiny dark-green simple leaves.

reservations@iway.na

www.etosha-village.com

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SANDWICH HARBOUR -

SURF’S UP!… uh oh…

Text Edward Jenkins Photographs Paul van Schalkwyk

RAMSAR SITES IN NAMIBIA Namibia currently hosts five designated Wetlands of International Importance as prescribed by the Ramsar Convention: • Etosha Pan, Lake Oponono and the Cuvelai drainage system (central-northern Namibia) • Sandwich Harbour (Atlantic coast, approximately 55 km south of Walvis Bay) • Walvis Bay Lagoon (Atlantic coast, immediately south of the Municipality of Walvis Bay) • Orange River Mouth (Namibia/South Africa border, on the Atlantic coast) • Bwabwata-Okavango (Lower Okavango River and adjacent marshes/flood plains)

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THE WETLAND TREASURES OF NAMIBIA

In 1971, concerns for the conservation and wise use of wetlands worldwide led to an international treaty designed to support national action and international cooperation. To date, 167 countries have joined the Convention on Wetlands of International Importance (the Ramsar Convention).

Namibia has identified five Ramsar sites, including Sandwich Harbour, thus designated in 1995.

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CONSERVATION 2003/4 THE SHIFTING SANDS OF SANDWICH HARBOUR

By Hu Berry

A

rguably the least accessible of Namibia’s five Ramsar sites, Sandwich Harbour – located approximately 55 km south of the Municipality of Walvis Bay – is a world-class destination for birders, an off-road driving adventure for 4X4 enthusiasts, and a place of interest for those with a penchant for history. Sadly, it can also be a place to turn an expensive four-wheel-drive vehicle into a submarine for those who choose not to pay close attention to the tide charts.

The origins of the name Sandwich Harbour are obscure.

More a lagoon than a harbour, some attribute the name to a British whaler, The Sandwich, which visited around 1789, and whose captain may have made the first accurate maps of the area. Others claim the name describes the ‘sandwiching’ effect of an area of fresh water caught between the dunes of the Namib sand sea and the tides of the South Atlantic Ocean. Finally, some believe it is a derivation of the German word, sandfische, a type of shark found in the area.

During the 1970s the northern section of Sandwich Harbour was an extensive system of tidal mudflats, which drained brackish and fresh water pools. At its widest point the beach was about one kilometre from the base of the dunes.

Twenty years later, by 1992, the sea had pushed back the beach towards the dunes, covering large portions of the vegetation with a blanket of wave-washed sand. Only a narrow channel still drained the pools at the far (southern) end.

By 1997 the beach had closed against the dunes in the south and no tidal flow was possible. The vegetation was dying from increased salinity and the beach broadening as it moved closer to the dunes.

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Regardless of the name, the key to the profusion of life here is a large aquifer bubbling fresh water through the sand and creating the northern freshwater wetland. To the south, tidal influences form enormous mud flats, and to the east, the Namib dune sea reaches the ocean, offering a measure of protection from human encroachment, and some spectacular photo opportunities.

Today, Sandwich Harbour is entirely within the NamibNaukluft Park, with a marine-protected area offshore.

Considered one of Southern Africa’s most important wetlands for both migratory and resident birds, an estimated 50,000 birds may be present in the summer, and 20,000 in the winter. In 1991, a record 115 species were recorded, including 179,000 wading birds. (In 2013, Sandwich Harbour recorded 51,500 greater and 10,900 lesser flamingos, in a year when a lack of rain rendered Etosha unpopular as a breeding site.)

The Sandwich Harbour environment is the home for a number of red-data bird species, including the Damara tern and chestnut-banded plover, as well as pelicans, avocets, turnstones, and dune larks. Peregrine falcons, southern pale chanting goshawks and black-chested snake-eagles may also be present.

Many archaeological sites in the area demonstrate Sandwich Harbour’s long involvement in human endeavours. The earliest habitants may have been the Strandlopers – a nomadic beachcombing people believed to be the direct ancestors of the Topnaar – who remain in the area today. When American and British whaling ships discovered the freshwater supply that was available there in the early 18th century, trade began with the Topnaar, who bartered cattle for beads and other goods. In time, fishing, guano collection, sealing and even shark-oil extraction industries grew up in the area, where today only rusted relics remain.

Studies in later years showed that the northern freshwater wetlands had decreased dramatically in size. Twenty years previously, the freshwater lagoon was approximately one kilometre across; in 2003 it was only about 200 metres. The aquifer appeared to be fed from the ephemeral Kuiseb River, and as the demand for fresh water increased for growing communities such as in Walvis Bay and Sossusvlei, less water was available to replenish the aquifer.

Some scientists believed that the lower numbers of bird species found during annual bird counts were a direct result of these changes, since the freshwater lagoon traditionally hosted a much higher diversity of species, while the mud flats hosted many thousands of other birds, primarily from wading species.

The wise allocation of precious water resources is a constant struggle for the government of an arid land such as Namibia. With careful monitoring and management, and with the support and assistance of global experts on water management available through the Ramsar Convention, administrators will have the tools they need to maintain this internationally important wetland for future generations of birders – and potential submariners – to enjoy... TNN

Generally, wetlands are areas where water is the primary factor controlling the environment and the associated plant and animal life.

They occur where the water table is at or near the surface of the land, or where the land is covered by water.

Five major wetland types are generally recognised:

WETLAND TYPES • Marine (coastal wetlands including coastal lagoons, rocky shores, and coral reefs) • Estuarine (including deltas, tidal marshes, and mangrove swamps) • Lacustrine (wetlands associated with lakes) • Riverine (wetlands along rivers and streams) • Palustrine (meaning ‘marshy’– marshes, swamps and bogs) The Ramsar Convention, recognising man’s influence on the environment, has simplified wetland definitions into three categories: • Marine and Coastal Wetlands • Inland Wetlands • Man-made Wetlands, such as fish and shrimp ponds, farm ponds, irrigated agricultural land, saltpans, reservoirs, gravel pits, sewage farms and canals. www.ramsar.org

SWAKOPMUND Text and photographs Ron Swilling

THROUGH THE EYES OF A CHILD

Ice cream and aquariums, beads and bangles, snakes and skulls – sometimes it’s so good to remember what it’s like to be a child when colour, magic and wonder merge and time slows down to the moment and pauses as a shark swims above your head or when a flock of flamingos takes to the air in a breathtaking splash of pink. Days are filled with fascinating, vivid detail, and summer holidays pass by in a flash of excitement and happiness.

I

had the chance to shed the years and spend the day enjoying central Swakopmund – everything within walking distance – discovering delights and treats that brought the dazzle back into the day and sparkle and splendour to the seconds. Swakopmund soon became more than curio shops and coffee bars – it became a treasure trove of fun.

The first stop was at the aquarium with its jewel box of small tanks where violet anemones waved their tentacles in bursts of bubbles, starfish clung onto rocks like Christmas decorations, and long serpent eels eyed me warily from the sand. But the big tank was calling, inviting me to climb up ladders to sit on cushions at porthole windows and gaze at whiskered white barbel or gigantic kabeljou. Watching skates and sharks from below as they crossed the tunnel section of the tank was by far the most exciting part, and, of course, waiting for them to return as they circled back. I could feel everyone’s enjoyment – it was catchy – and l laughed along with every gawk and gasp.

When I finally popped out into the blue-sky Swakop day, the urge for ice cream from the colourful assortment at Ice and Spice drew me to Ankerplatz. The mango flavour was tempting but a rich and decadent chocolate won hands down. Bead World beckoned, luring me into the Aladdin’s Cave to select the brightest and boldest beads for bracelets and necklaces, before I veered towards Kristall Galerie and its myriad gemstones. This is the place where you can view the largest crystal in the world, and where you can walk through a crystal cave and dig in the scratch patch for bags of polished stones. I chose a handful and knew that I would keep a few deep in my pocket with some of my most favourite things.

Lunch at Bojos (pancakes, of course!), the Museum & The Living Desert Snake Park followed. The museum was full of treasures: butterflies and beetles, an elephant skull, 16-million-year-old fossils, a termite mound, an old ox wagon, and pieces of eight from ships wrecked along the coast. I tumbled out into the afternoon with my head spinning and my eyes glazed, and made my way to my last stop, ‘The biggest little snake park in Namibia’.

Here I greeted chameleons swivelling their eyes to watch me, a prehistoric-looking rock monitor that is routinely draped over a shoulder and taken out to sunbathe, and the largest snakes I had ever seen and ever hope to see.

I wasn’t there for feeding time, but hoped that I could save that for another visit. The day was finally starting to catch up and I couldn’t help stifling a few yawns. I had just enough energy to run along to the end of the jetty to watch the sun set, avoiding the waves that sprayed up through the wooden boards. I was just in time.

The red sun sank slowly and gracefully and then suddenly disappeared as if it had just remembered an urgent appointment.

As the light dimmed, it was time to follow an old European tradition. I turned my back to the sea. Folding my right arm over my left shoulder, I threw a coin into the waves and didn’t look back.

This, I knew, meant that I would be able to return one day to do it all again. TNN National Marine Aquarium (on the far end of the beach, Strand Street): Tuesday–Sunday 10:00–16:00 Public holidays 10:00–16:00 Feeding times 15:00 (watch a diver hand-feed the fish on Tuesdays, Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays) Ice & Spice (Ankerplatz, Sam Nujoma Avenue): +264 81 364 2910 Bead World (Daniel Tjongarero Avenue): +264 64 46 3838 Kristall Galerie (corner Tobias Hainyeko Street and Theo-Ben Gurirab Avenue): Monday–Saturday 9:00–17:00 +264 64 40 6080 Swakopmund Museum (below the lighthouse, Dr Ludwig Koch Street): Monday–Sunday 10.00–17.00 +264 64 40 2046 The Living Desert Snake Park (Sam Nujoma Avenue): Every day from 9:00–17:00 Snake feeding times: Saturdays 10:00 Photos with Dodo the rock python: weekdays +264 64 40 5100/+264 81 240 3227

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SUMMER WEATHER AT A GLANCE Namibians love rain!

Compiled Annabelle Venter Photograph Paul van Schalkwyk

Living in such a dry climate for so much of the year as we do here in Namibia, the anticipation of rain is a major feature in our lives, as well as for our plants and animals. By November the clouds start building up and it becomes hot and oppressive, especially up north. Then suddenly the long wait is over. Frayed tempers are soothed by the cooler temperatures – especially at night – and sleep becomes less elusive again.

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WEATHER IN SUMMER

L

istening to the rain and thunder and watching the flashing skies is a national pastime that is guaranteed to put a smile on anyone’s face. By February the rains are in full swing and the countryside turns a beautiful Irish green! Rivers that are dry for most of the year, suddenly become raging torrents. The weather at the coast at this time is balmy, summery and dry – perfect for swimming and summer holidays.

MINIMUM/MAXIMUM TEMPERATURES IN DEGREES CELSIUS

Average INLAND rainfalls are: December, 47 mm; January, 77 mm; February 73 mm Average NORTH-EASTERN rainfalls are: December, 83 mm; January, 128 mm; February 147 mm

DID YOU KNOW?

December

January

February

Windhoek

16/30

17/30

16/28

Swakopmund

14/22

15/24

16/23

Zambezi Region

19/32

19/31

18/30

SUNRISE/SUNSET Sunrise

Our rainy season generally continues till early April, when the migratory birds leave Namibia for another year.

The scent of rain on dry earth, or the scent of dust after rain, is referred to as petrichor, a word of Greek origin defined as a pleasant smell that frequently accompanies the first rain after a long period of warm, dry weather.

SUMMER HEALTH HAZARD

Sunset

21 December 2014

Windhoek

06:04

19:35

21 January 2015

Windhoek

06:24

19:41

21 February 2015

Windhoek

06:43

19:26

MOON PHASES FOR SUMMER 2014/5 FULL NEW MOON MOON

SUMMER SOLSTICE – THE LONGEST DAY OF THE YEAR

6 December

22 December

21 December

5 January

20 January

4 February

19 February

• The hot and humid weather conditions in summer make it an ideal breeding time for mosquitoes. MALARIA is still the major killer disease in Africa and you will need to take precautions when visiting at this time of year.

Generally anywhere north of Windhoek can be a high-risk area, especially up in the wetter northern parts. Take prophylactics before you leave home, and should you become ill, remember to mention where you’ve been to your doctor.

• Spray on mosquito repellent; wear long sleeves, leggings and socks at night; and sleep under a net if possible.

• Symptoms include headache, fever and rigours (violent shivering), and typically start one week to a month after you’ve been bitten.

SPECIAL SUMMER SAFETY PRECAUTIONS Riverbeds – Watch out for flash floods in riverbeds during summer. Never camp in a riverbed at this time of year, and always wade through wet sand first to establish the depth before you drive across.

Slippery roads – The tar roads are often slippery when the first rains fall, so exercise caution and don’t drive too fast.

Lightning – Many people are killed by lightning in Africa each year. Move indoors if an electrical storm is approaching and don’t talk on the phone! Keep away from anything that conducts electricity. We sometimes have spectacular storms here in Namibia!

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BOOKS ON NAMIBIA Review Amy Schoeman

TOKTOK TALKIE - ANCIENT MARINER TO ZOPHOSIS MORALESI JOH HENSCHEL Wordweaver PUBLISHING HOUSE 2014

This beautifully presented book authored by researcher, philosopher, intellectual, writer and conservationist, Joh Henschel – formerly based in Namibia’s harbour town Walvis Bay and currently in Kimberley, South Africa – is an ideal gift to add to the pile under your 2014 Christmas tree. It will appeal to a wide range of readers, from young to old and everyone in between, whether aspiring to become or already functioning as biologists, botanists, ornithologists, ecologists, entomologists and geologists (to name a few) – in fact, to aficionados of all things environmental.

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BOOKS ON NAMIBIA Nimby is not in my back yard There once was a glamorous affluent Nimby, who knew how to manoeuvre our needs so nimbly.

Its existence was pure, only for gain, Though to visit, one would search in vain.

It was located, according to its address card: Not In My Back Yard.

Untiringly for us it laboured and toiled, its busy innards bubbled and boiled, noisily and steamily it huffed and puffed, with what it produced we were really chuffed, a lofty example of diligence without regard, Not In My Back Yard.

As every Namib toktokkie knows, seize the moment, as it comes and goes, when opportunity beckons, develop and grow, don’t dally and ponder, go for it, just so, boom-times are moments most adored, Especially In My Back Yard.

Our Nimby’s in heaven in plentiful times, when business grows to dollars from dimes, revenue and profit are things that matter, businessmen and workers grow fatter and fatter, nothing else matters when currency is hard, Carefree In My Back Yard.

Big business over big distances are Nimby’s appeal, as nobody with its noise and emissions will deal, consumers don’t see its monstrous ugliness, nor need they worry that it’s causing distress, entire landscapes poisoned and charred, Not In My Back Yard.

Nimby’s place was previously very nice, forget that once it was nature’s paradise, where flowers grew and toktokkies frolicked, teeming with goggas we’re not sure we liked.

Luckily Nimby’s in someone else’s yard, Not In My Back Yard.

T

oktok Talkie is a compilation of 120 articles on nature and sustainable development that the author started writing in July 2011 as a weekly newspaper column for the Namib Times while working for EnviroMEND (Environmental Management and Ecological Restoration in the Namib Desert). During this period he also wrote a column entitled Big Stories about Little Things published by Venture Publications in Air Namibia’s in-flight magazine Flamingo, a few of which are included in this delightful anthology. The talkies are accompanied by the author’s photographs.

The narrator of the talkies is Toktokkie, a tenebrionid beetle, also called darkling beetle and colloquially toktokkie. The name is derived from the sound caused when some species tap their bodies on the ground to communicate, making a tok-tok sound. These beetles come in many shapes, sizes and colours, with different species found in the Namib fittingly illustrating various concepts of desert ecology.

The author states in his introduction that children – when wandering around in the Namib Desert – like to talk to toktokkies as they go about their business ascending, cresting and hurtling down the sandy dune slipfaces. The fact is, says Joh, children already know what the toktokkies are telling them, but some adults require interpretation, hence this book.

The iconic beetle chosen as the narrator is the common Namib toktokkie species Zophosis moralesi, its scientific name aptly imparting: Moral from a Darkling Beetle.

Joh’s objective with the Toktok Talkie articles was to increase awareness and interest in biodiversity, ecological processes, the functions and services of nature, its uses and abuses, and environmental management, all in relation to human development. While his departure point was the coastal Namib Desert and Atlantic shore where he lived, the topics he wrote about embrace matters concerning Namibia, Africa, Earth and, indeed, the Universe. In Joh’s words: Exercising the ability to develop ideas, builds minds fit to come up with new concepts and applications.

Each chapter is in effect a sketch in words. The introduction is often fanciful, and is followed by the phrase ‘as every Namib toktokkie knows’. Then a number of pertinent facts of nature on the topic are presented, usually based on ‘dry’ science, although the style often departs from the dryness and circumvention of certainty versus uncertainty. Toktokkie pops up every now and then to bring high-flying concepts down to earth. Each chapter ends with a ‘moral of the story’, amounting to a nudge towards nature conservation, as stated

by Zophosis moralesi.

An outstanding quality of Joh Henschel’s writing, besides his innovative play with words, is his wry sense of humour, as illustrated in the excerpt from the prose-poem talkie entitled ‘Nimby is not my back yard.’

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Southern Carmine Bee-eaters (Merops nubicoides)

A FAMILY AFFAIR for

BIRDERS AND FISHERMEN Text and photographs Annabelle Venter

Kalizo Fishing Camp has entered a new era. This well-known fishing and birding destination in the eastern Zambezi Region, 38 km east of Katima Mulilo, is set to become a firm favourite with its old clients once again.

I

In 2012, Johannesburg-born Tony Farrow and his Natalian wife Lara started thinking about returning to Southern Africa from Australia to raise their young family closer to nature. One day their friend Johan Griffioen called to say Kalizo was on the market and that he and his wife Cherie had gone there to have a look. Tony and Lara were invited to join them in the business and their future seemed to fall into place in an instant. What probably clinched the deal was that Johan’s wife Cherie is also Lara’s mother! By December 2012 they had all arrived at their new home to begin a new era for Kalizo.

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Tony with four-year-old Wren, wife Lara and Baby Bonn

KALIZO FISHING CAMP

For many years Kalizo has been a favourite destination amongst tiger-fishermen as well as for the birding community – both ‘twitchers’ and bird photographers. But in the past, more often than not, the partners and family of these enthusiasts hadn’t joined their spouses on the trips. Now, however, due to the recent improvements to the accommodation, campsites, catering and recreational facilities, families are encouraged to come and enjoy the

relaxing atmosphere and amenities. There’s a shady garden to relax in, a beautiful swimming pool, and Tony is planning to enlarge the children’s play area to also entertain the little ones. New tents on boardwalks are situated next to the river to maximise the view. Tony is also something of a foodie and takes great pride in using fresh produce from his vegetable garden to create something special each night.

Kalizo is well known for its superb fishing opportunities, and practises a catch-and-release system. August, when the river is pretty much at its lowest, is an excellent time of year for catching tiger-fish and bream. On the birding front, the African skimmer is a sought-after species especially for South African birders and photographers, as they have been locally extinct in South Africa since the late 1940s. But the real draw card for many is a very special event that begins late in August.

Every year between 21 and 26 August, the Southern Carmine Bee-eaters arrive in their thousands from further up north in central Africa. Kalizo is thought to host one of the largest breeding colonies for these birds in Southern Africa, just one kilometre from camp, and often hosts as many as 4,000 birds or more. They arrive in small flocks and by the beginning of September the colony is alive with these spectacular birds, mating and squabbling as they seek out their partners and nest sites. Usually nesting in high riverbanks, this year the colony is found mainly on flat ground on top of the bank. Great care must be taken to keep well away from

Room with a view

the nests when visiting, as they are not always easily visible and are extremely vulnerable to caving in and smothering the birds and/ or chicks.

Early in the season you can witness the aerial mating displays, with birds twirling each other around like winged seedpods, their beaks locked before falling to earth. Sometimes they hit the ground in a puff of dust, but mostly they release before impact. Later on in October you will see the adults bringing food to the nests. There are few things more rewarding for photographers and twitchers than watching the fascinating aerial displays of these beautiful birds.

A distinctive twittering sound continuously fills the air, rising to a crescendo as the birds take off as one when disturbed. Raptors occasionally try to catch the birds in flight, and later on the nestlings are vulnerable to being predated on by snakes and water monitors.

By mid-December when the chicks have left the nests the show is almost over, and by March they are preparing to leave Southern Africa once again.

After such intense bird-watching, it’s great to return to the comfortable lodge to while away the rest of the day or try some of the other activities on offer. Happily, Carmine Bee-eater watching can be addictive, so you’re bound to return here next year! TNN

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KAYAK TOURS ANIMAL ANTICS IN WALVIS BAY Text and photographs Ron Swilling

The mist lifted and the sun shone through the clouds, creating islands of light on the glittering sea. A flock of heavy-bodied pelicans filled the sky and to my surprise flitted away effortlessly, followed by a group of graceful flamingos.

All this happened in the few moments I spent parked at the water’s edge, as if on cue, before my meeting with Jeanne Meintjes from Eco Marine Kayak Tours.

I was still in awe when I arrived at the coffee shop.

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“

KAYAK TOURS

That’s Walvis,” she said nonchalantly. And with the Walvis Bay Lagoon being a Ramsar site, a wetland of international importance and home to a plethora of waterbirds and waders, it is undoubtedly a birders’ paradise. But birds are not the only attraction. We were about to kayak amongst the seals at Pelican Point, which is the end of a sand spit and an important corridor of sand preventing the sea from hurtling into the bay. Fortunately for guests, although visible just across the bay, it is reached by a 40-kilometre drive around the lagoon, which on most days is dotted with pink candy-floss-coloured flamingos.

When Jeanne began her kayaking trips 17 years ago, with four kayaks, a Land Rover and a trailer, there were only several hundred seals at the Point. Over the last two decades the colony has grown to a population of eight to ten thousand. “I love kayaking and thought others would too,” Jeanne told me as we waited for the rest of the group to arrive. Today, she has a smart safari vehicle colourfully decorated with a scene of people kayaking with the seals and a collection of sleek-looking sea kayaks that are carefully packed on the purpose-built trailer.

JOURNEY ACROSS AN AQUATIC TREASURE On the road out to Pelican Point, before we had even reached the white mounds of the salt works, she had put the group at ease about kayaking. (No experience is needed and the age group is generally 3–300.) We were looking forward to meeting the seal pups, which she told us were always eager to come and play.

After a short 4x4 drive along the soft beach sand, we parked on the shore and were quickly kitted out in waterproofs and life-jackets. Looking more like we were about to step onto the moon than paddle into watery realms, we were pushed out onto the still, flat lagoon waters. As anticipated, the seals swam to us inquisitively and looked at us wide-eyed, probably in surprise as well as greeting. They leapt and dived around us in glee (or so it seemed), disappearing into the water and occasionally nibbling on a paddle.

MUCH TO ENJOY Kayaking amongst the seals in the Walvis Bay Lagoon with Eco Marine Kayak Tours www.emkayak.iway.na +264 64 20 3144/+264 81 129 3144 Boat cruises with Catamaran Charters www.namibiancharters.com +264 64 20 0798/+264 81 129 5393 and Mola Mola www.mola-namibia.com +264 64 20 5511/+264 81 127 2522 Desert trips to Sandwich Harbour in the NamibNaukluft Park with Turnstone Tours www.turnstone-tours.com +264 64 40 3123 An informative quad-bike journey into the Namib Desert with Kuiseb Delta Adventures www.kuisebonline.com +264 81 128 2580 A drive around the lagoon towards the salt works and Paaltjies, a popular fishing spot, to view myriad bird species.

HOW TO GET THERE Follow the main road (Union Road) as it becomes 5th Avenue and curves at the harbour into Atlantic Street, leading you right to the entrance of the Walvis Bay Yacht Club and the Waterfront. The road continues to the Esplanade, skirting the lagoon, towards Paaltjies and the flamingos.

Jeanne laughed, eyes shining brilliantly, calling to them, “Kom, kom,” (Come, come). The gentle water journey, surrounded by friendly seals, was a perfect introduction to Walvis Bay and its aquatic treasure, the Walvis Bay Lagoon.

This really was the way to experience the town – the less tourist-oriented sister to Swakopmund that lies just 30 km to the north. I was discovering that Walvis has many of its own attractions, kayaking with the seals being just one of them. Another local delight is the greater and lesser flamingos that frequent its waters, only flying off to Etosha and the Makgadikgadi Pans to breed when there has been sufficient rainfall – never a given in this part of the world. I discovered even more wildlife wonders at the small and charming waterfront.

independence in 1990), Monique told me that she wouldn’t trade her unique outdoor office for anything in the world. She also filled me in on the Waterfront animal antics.

FROM LADY GAGA TO FRITZIE, JON SNOW AND BUBBLES

“Have you seen the dolphins?” I heard someone say from behind me. I swivelled and located the person behind the voice.

Pixie-like Monique Lloyd sat on a bench below Mola Mola’s turquoise-blue sign. It read: ‘Happy day. Enjoy the view.’ I was beginning to like this place more and more. Sure enough, there was a bottlenose dolphin swimming in the water in front of me.

On previous visits to the Waterfront, I had sat and watched flamingos for hours from the deck of the Musselcracker restaurant, which boasts the best coffee in Walvis Bay.

Every year youngsters fall off the pelican breeding platform out at sea and the ‘Pelican Nursery’ at the Waterfront adopts them and nurses them back to health. Their latest ‘foster child’ is Lady Gaga, so called because she dances for her fish, wings outspread. She also likes to use the walkway as a runway, regardless of who’s around. Lady Gaga is not eager to leave her adopted home. “It’s not just the fish that keep her here,” Monique informed me. “She has lost her heart to one of the skippers.” Then there’s Fritzie, the Cape cormorant, who sits on your shoulder like a pirate’s parrot; a crow they decided to call Jon Snow (after the hero in the Game of Thrones), although Sheryl and Russell were strong contenders; the skuas ‘who are like seagulls on steroids’; and the five seals that climb onto the cruise boats to entertain and enthral all on board. Bubbles is a favourite because she loves to give hugs.

I had also watched pelicans sitting on the poles of the jetty or waddling down the path, but dolphins were a first. I joined Monique on the bench to learn that she is a skipper for Mola Mola boat cruises and had just returned from a morning on the water and a sighting of a humpback whale. A ‘born-free Namibian’ as she described herself (born after Namibian

I left Monique and went to explore the relaxed and rustic Waterfront. The mist had lifted, the sun had emerged and the southerly wind had come up, as usual. The late afternoon soon drew me back towards the salt works to watch flamingos against the sparkle of sunlight and to savour the last moments of a day well spent with feathery and finned friends. TNN

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EVENTS CALENDAR

SUMMER 2014/15

Be sure not to miss out on any of the adrenalin-fuelled, action-packed, culturally enriching, fun and jolly events Namibia plays host to every year!

Here are a few to look forward to during the Namibian summer season.

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EVENTS CALENDAR

DECEMBER • FNB Desert Dash • Jetty Mile • FNB Desert Triathlon • Michelle McLean Children’s Trust Golf Day

• Hartlief Christmas Market • The Volleyball Beach Bash Swakopmund • Lüderitz Speed Challenge • Penguin Angling Bonanza in Henties Bay

JANUARY

FEBRUARY

MARCH

• NERA Endurance horse-riding season begins • Swakopmund Skydiving Club Desert Boogie

• Rössing Namibia Marathon • Nedbank Cycle Challenge • NMPF Biathle or Triathle event, Windhoek

• DTS Beach Volleyball Series starts • Pointbreak Open Water Swim • NMPF Biathle or Triathle event, Swakopmund • Enjando Street Festival, Windhoek • /Ae // Gams Arts and Culture Festival

APRIL

MAY

JUNE

• Kuiseb Classic MTB • R&R Xross Country MTB • Nedbank Coast Cycle Classic • Windhoek Karneval (WIKA)

• Adventure Race Namibia 24-Hour Ultra Marathon • Klein-Aus Vista MTB Challenge & Trail Run • Windhoek Light Namib Quest • Bank Windhoek Arts Festival

• Dr Sam Nujoma Marathon • Oemf! MTB Challenge • Old Mutual Victory Race Oshakati • Namibia Tourism Expo • Küska (Kuste Karneval) in Swakopmund

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SUMMER 2014/15

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#thisismynamibia

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA’S SOCIAL-MEDIA CAMPAIGN Text Elzanne Erasmus

Instagram is the most popular photo-sharing app in the social-media sphere, with more than 60 million snaps posted per day.

T

o join in the fun Travel News Namibia has jumped on the Instagram bandwagon under the handle @travel_news_namibia!

What better way to showcase and celebrate a beautiful country such as Namibia than by sharing stunning photos of the country, its people and its hot happenings.

Our Instagram feed is overflowing with amazing images from even more amazing photographers, including Anja Denker, Annabelle Venter, the late Paul van Schalkwyk, and many more.

In an attempt to integrate all our different social-media platforms, including Facebook and Twitter, we often use pictures from photographers or authors who are trending on our various social media sites. Our website, www.travelnewsnamibia.com, is a primary source of breathtaking photographs, and we ensure that you will never miss out on these by channelling them into our various social-media platforms.

Loyal readers and followers, rest assured: you will not miss even a small slice of the action!

Keeping in mind the spirit of sharing and rejoicing in our wonderful country, @travel_news_namibia recently launched a hashtag challenge. We encouraged our followers to share Their Namibia with us via Instagram, Facebook and Twitter, using the #thisismynamibia hashtag.

Our social-media universe has exploded with amazing pictures from all over Namibia – photos of travels, landscapes, wildlife and people portraying the entire country carry the #thisismynamibia tag. Picking a Photo of the Week ensured a heated weekly debate over favourites at the TNN offices. Nonetheless, we picked one winner every week and these 10 favourites have made it into the glossy TNN pages. So here are your winners – the photographers, instagrammers and followers that truly captured our attention and showed us ‘their Namibia’, and we LIKE it.

Travel News Namibia

@travel_news_namibia

@travelnewsnamib

Travel News Namibia dot com

DID YOU KNOW? • Every month Instagram has 200 million active users • More than 75 million people use Instagram on a daily basis • More than 60 million Instagram photos are posted daily • Photos on Instagram receive an average of 1.2 billion likes per day • 83% of Instagram posts include hashtags

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Each winner will be receiving a great Travel News Namibia “social media is…” T-shirt!

24Atlantic One of the most beautiful places in our country, Hartmann’s Valley. #thisismynamibia

@stellaaria Stuck in traffic #thisismynamibia

@mrtroiano Elephants playing together by the waterhole in #Etosha National Park in #Namibia #Africa #elephant #thisisafrica #thisismynamibia

@benmcraephotography Little Katseta plays up to the camera. #thisismynamibia

@renatacolladophotography Himba Village #africa #namibia #tribe #travel #thisismynamibia

Anja Denker always seems to be in the right place at the right time! #namibia #awesome #cute #travel #sharemynamibia #nature #thisismynamibia

@jrma Leopard in #Etosha #Namibia #thisismynamibia #nature #wildlife #africa #afrika

@thomasblomme #spitzkoppe #thisismynamibia

@umkulutravel Lion reflection #umkulutravel #thisismynamibia #etoshanationalpark #namibia #etosha #nofilter #lion

@jaxxpix We stopped to stretch our legs and came across these tiny purple flowers called #Blepharis on the side of the road #Namibia #thisismynamibia

OVER THE MOON Text and photographs Ron Swilling

The delicate flower of the tsamma melon, Citrullus ecirrhosus

A clump of everlasting flowers, Helichrysum roseo-niveum

Ice plant, Mesembryanthemum guerichianum

“We’re going to the moon today!” Usually such an exclamation would turn heads and stop conversations, but when our guide Cleo Areseb casually uttered this, we just gulped it down with the swathe of intriguing landscape that was visible through the windows of our vehicle. We were, after all, on a Moon Landscape Tour on the outskirts of Swakopmund.

PLANT WONDERS OF THE NAMIB

A

nd, like many of the extraordinary sights in this remarkable country, the landscape in the Namib Desert constantly surprises. One of the greatest wonders revealed to us on the tour is the ability of the tenacious flora and fauna not only to survive in this arid environment but also to exhibit a fragile loveliness.

We were all eagerly anticipating our visit to the hundreds-ofyears-old welwitschia, which spreads its leather-like leaves in ripples of green waves around it. We never expected to be so absorbed and dazzled before we’d even reached the floral giants.

Our trip to the moon began alongside the ephemeral Swakop River, a verdant ribbon in the tawny expanse of the desert.

Although filling with water and flowing into the sea only in years of exceptional rainfall, the underground water feeds the river vegetation and supplies water to the riverbank plots on which vegetables, olives and asparagus are cultivated.

DOROB NATIONAL PARK

The dune sea south of Swakopmund is thwarted by the river, leaving exploration of the curvaceous beauties for another day. We drove into the Dorob National Park, the central park in the Namib Desert, accompanied by the pocket of mist for which Swakop is well known. Although often cause for much muttering, the mist bank is appreciated in the summer months when the rest of the country scorches under a vengeful Namibian sun. It is also valued for its life-giving properties. The hardy flora and fauna we were beginning to notice exist only because of this precious moisture that drifts in from the coast, thanks to the cold Benguela Current that flows up the southwestern coastline of Africa to laze contentedly further north.

There were even more surprises once we had turned onto a 4x4 track weaving its way between rocky koppies, dollar bushes and tamarisk trees, and were given an official “Welcome to the moon!” by Cleo. The first was the opportunity for an impromptu musical recital on the dolerite rocks that jut out from the granite in dark dykes and tumble over the hills in musical stones. Our group lacked any musical ability but we amused ourselves for a while, clinking and clunking tunelessly on the rocks. We made our way back to the vehicle to continue past hills that looked like a ridge-back’s back, displaying a stony dolerite band on their crests. By the time we reached the prickly !nara bushes, whose melons are vital for desert life and sustain the Topnaar people in the Kuiseb River Delta, the Brazilian botanist on board was eagerly eyeing the many plant jewels and was ready to leap out of the window. Cleo stopped the vehicle just in time.

He then continued to show us his ‘garden’, with the enthusiasm of a gardener who has tilled the soil and lovingly watched his seedlings sprout and grow. He introduced us to ice-plants (also called ostrich lettuce) with droplets of water glistening like diamonds, Namib edelweiss with its tiny snow-white and pink blooms, tsamma melon flowers peeping delicately from the creeping stems, aloes, the euphorbia plant with its rod-like leaves and toxic milky latex, sweet-smelling commiphora, and lithops taking on the guise of pebbles on the waterless sand.

Drops of water sprinkled on lichens immediately coaxed them to life, while dollar-bush seedpods danced a quick jig in the palm of a hand as they contracted their wings into tight spheres.

Guide Cleo continued to have fun in his garden, showing us a chocolate mountain and a Matterhorn and an elephant skull in the rocks. He also used his excellent eyesight to spot klipspringer on the mountain ridges, springbok grazing across the desert plains, and a toktokkie beetle that was hastily trying to escape the vehicle on the track.

NAMIBIA’S NATIONAL PLANT

And, finally, after a drive into a small canyon, alongside marble-striped mountains and sand glistening with mica and feldspar, we arrived at the valley of welwitschias. They lived up to our expectations. These granddaddy plants demanded considerable respect, not only because they have mystified scientists for decades with their out-of-the box taxonomy, but also for their determination to grow and bloom in the desert, astounding us with their resilience and singular appearance. The welwitschia, as we unanimously decided, is a suitably wonder-full national plant for an unusually fantastic country.

As we drove out of the canyon towards the Swakop River Oasis, past the original farm Goanikontes, the 1903 British gatepost to Walvis Bay and into the Namib-Naukluft Park and an area that can quite aptly be called ‘no-man’s land’, a shimmering of water appeared on the sand. “That’s the only water you’ll find in the desert,” Cleo chirped. The mirage glimmered invitingly. “Yes,” I thought, “he may be right. Maybe there isn’t water in the Namib except in special places and on rare occasions, but there definitely are many other treasures to be found in one of the oldest deserts on the planet.”

The last stretch of road took us to more views of the striking and otherworldly Moon Landscape before heading back to central Swakopmund and Earth.

Welwitschia mirabilis, with female cones (flowers)

CONSERVATION CONSIDERATIONS

Contrary to its appearance, the Namib Desert is an extremely fragile environment. Tracks from vehicles not only wipe out populations of lichen and compact the soil, but remain on gravel plains for many decades. There are ox-wagon tracks in the vicinity left over a century ago that are still visible today. Vehicle tracks leave the desert landscape scarred and visually polluted.

Keep the sensitivity of the terrain in mind and travel with a responsible operator, or if you’re self-driving, be sure to stay on the existing tracks.

!NARA OASES IN THE DESERT

This tenacious desert plant, reliant on underground water and ocean fog, becomes the centre around which hummock dunes form, which in turn become home to numerous small creatures.

The spiny melons of this intriguing plant also support countless organisms, providing a food source for humans, jackals, gerbils, crickets and beetles.

Appearances are often deceptive in the desert where adaptations such as thorns reduce transpiration and offer protection, enabling the plant to survive. !Nara bushes are found in the lower reaches of the ephemeral river courses and against the dunes in places where they are able to reach all the way down to the water table with their long tap roots.

A MILLION TO ONE

A slow-growing prehistoric species, with separate male and female plants, the welwitschia depends on perfect conditions for germination. The female plant produces up to 100 of the cone-like flowers in one season. The male plant produces an abundance of pollen, which is blown about by the dry autumn winds. The cones are often brightly coloured, the male cones orange to salmon pink, the female ones much larger and greenish yellow, banded with reddish brown.

Lithops ruschiorum

Springbok against a backdrop of earthy colours

In an area where the annual rainfall of 15 mm is not guaranteed, it is quite miraculous that these dwarfed trees can survive for 600 years or longer. A pocket of welwitschias may not see new plants for close to a century, making the germination of a seed a rare and significant event.

The welwitschia produces only two leaves in its lifetime, which grow very long and become shredded over time by the sun and the wind. The plant absorbs moisture from the life-giving fog (generated by the cold Benguela Current flowing from the Antarctic up the west coast of Africa and meeting the warm onshore winds from the interior), and from underground water.

A protected plant, it is a Namib endemic that grows in isolated communities along the desert coastal strip from Namibe in southern Angola southwards to the Kuiseb River in Namibia.

WONDER-FULL!

The weird and wonderful welwitschia is Namibia’s national plant for good reason. It has befuddled scientists for decades as to where it fits in the plant kingdom. It is simply the only one of its kind. Considered a tree that has been dwarfed by the rigours of the desert, it is related to prehistoric flora known to us only through fossil records, giving rise to being referred to popularly as a ‘living fossil’. Supposedly related to the flora of the Jurassic period when gymnosperms were abundant, the plant is thought to have survived and adapted as the environment became more arid.

Eventually, after much bewilderment, scientists gave the plant its own taxonomic category, naming it Welwitschia mirabilis after Austrian botanist and naturalist, Friedrich Welwitsch, who fell to his knees in awe when he saw the remarkable plant whilst in southern Angola in 1859. He noted: ‘ ... I am convinced that I saw the most beautiful and magnificent botanical wonder that tropical southern Africa can present.’

The word ‘mirabilis’ means miracle or wonderful. TNN

One of the many species of tenebrionid beetles found in the Namib

Aloe asperifolia

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Photo courtesy of: Paolo Schneider

Namibia. Wild at heart.

An untamed wilderness that will always leave you spoilt for choice.

Mother Nature is waiting for you.

NAMIBIA – Head office Channel Life Building, 1st floor Post Street Mall Private Bag 13244, Windhoek Tel: +264 61 2906 000 Fax: +264 61 254 848 Email: info@namibiatourism.com.na www.namibiatourism.com.na

GERMANY Schillerstrasse 42 – 44, D – 60313 Frankfurt am Main, Tel: +49 69 1337 360 Fax: +49 69 1337 3615 Email: info@namibia-tourism.com www.namibia-tourism.com

SOUTH AFRICA Cape Town Ground floor, The Pinnacle Burg Street, P O. Box 739 Tel: +27 21 4223 298 Fax: +27 21 422 5132 Email: namibia@saol.com

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