The next generation
We have always needed the wild. Now more than ever - for its energy, its inspiration and a sense of hope for the future of our planet. This is why Ongava exists - ecotourism for the next generation.
Namibia Travel News
is published by Venture Media in Windhoek, Namibia www.travelnewsnamibia.com
Tel: +264 61 383 450, Hypermotor City Unit 44, Maxwell street PO Box 21593, Windhoek, Namibia
MANAGING EDITOR Elzanne McCulloch elzanne@venture.com.na
PRODUCTION MANAGER Le Roux van Schalkwyk content@venture.com.na
PUBLIC RELATIONS Elzanne McCulloch elzanne@venture.com.na
LAYOUT & DESIGN Liza de Klerk design@venture.com.na
CUSTOMER SERVICE Bonn Nortjé bonn@venture.com.na
ONLINE MANAGER Ruairí Hammond digital@venture.com.na
TEXT CONTRIBUTORS
Elzanne McCulloch, Pompie Burger, Le Roux van Schalkwyk, Lee Tindall, Helga Burger, Rièth van Schalkwyk, Ena Visagie, Sandra Windisch, Willie Olivier PHOTOGRAPHERS
Elzanne McCulloch, Pompie Burger, Le Roux van Schalkwyk, Lee Tindall, Helga Burger, Ena Visagie, Sandra Windisch, Paul van Schalkwyk, Willie Olivier, Louis Wessels, Gerhard Thirion
Travel News Namibia is published quarterly, distributed worldwide via Zinio digital newsstand and in physical format in southern Africa. The editorial content of TNN is contributed by the Venture Media team, freelance writers and journalists. It is the sole property of the publisher and no part of the magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.
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Why ethical business, conservation, tourism, people and communities matter. How these elements interrelate and how we can bring about change, contribute to the world and support each other. Whether for an entire nation, an industry, a community, or even just an individual.
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21, we're focussing on telling and sharing STORIES THAT MATTER across various magazines and digital platforms. Join the journey and share your ries with audiences that understand and value why certain things matter.
Celebrating Summer
Here in Namibia summer is a time to celebrate. Summer means sunshine and beachside relaxation. It is the season to be jolly and joyous as another year spent in the beauty of this enigmatic country comes to a close. Summer means year-end for the tired bones (especially after the culmination of two years of pandemic madness). Summer means parties and plans for travel right around the corner. Most of all, for jubilant Namibians summer means rain!
As the year unwinds and our bone-deep tiredness has well and truly settled in we take a moment to reflect on the year, and travel, that was. I scroll through my Instagram feed (which has become like a diary of splendid times) and reminisce on the wonders we enjoyed as a team here at Travel News Namibia. We started our year with incredible trips to a water-drenched south. Frolicking in pools of life that lay between the ancient dunes in Sossusvlei and marvelling at the wondrous lily displays on farm Sandhof just north of the sleepy town of Maltahöhe. Massive grasslands spread green and gold in valleys across the country. Over Valentine’s weekend my hubby and I stood knee-deep in more water than we have ever seen in the Etosha Pan. In March our team stared in awe across the Grootberg mountain range that was decked out in green. We trekked elephants and rare black rhinos scaling mountain sides with conservationists. We learnt about landscape-level conservation and the communities who work and live in these wild places to keep them so. Later in the year we rode mountain bikes for rhinos and had campfire chats that fed the soul. We met with more than one set of passionate Namibians dedicated to preserving our country’s greatest assets. Our natural wealth. From the northwest to private farms and nature reserves further inland we listened to their stories of struggle and perseverance. We flew across this country’s dramatic and undulating landscapes to corners far and wide and rediscovered time and again why we love Namibia so much. We also rediscovered why we work with the fantastic people that we do, and we are so honoured to have partners in Namibia’s tourism and conservation industries who understand why it matters what we do and how we do it. That their stories matter.
So this summer we celebrate those partners. Partners like Ondili, Ongava, Journeys, Wilderness, NWR, FlyNamibia, CYMOT, RMB, Africa on Wheels and so many others who make it such a privilege to share passionate Namibian stories that focus on the power of wilderness and protecting our natural world. At Venture Media and Travel News Namibia we celebrate the Namibians who are dedicated to Namibia. And we thank you for your dedication. Without you there would be no stories to tell, no passion to share, no wild Namibia to celebrate.
We hope that you, dear reader, find the desire, the courage and the passion to come visit this land of endless horizons and tremendously enriching stories despite the difficult times. There is so much waiting for you here in Namibia.
Safe travels!
With love from Namibia,
Elzanne McCulloch @elzanne_mcculloch
ON THE COVER
While surfing is popular with only a tiny section of the country's population, it is probably one of the most scenic activities to do thanks to the extraordinary views of the coastline it offers.
FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @thisis_namibia
Did you know that Namibia is the first African country to have its entire coastline of 1,570 km protected in national parks? Combined, these parks would be the largest park in Africa and the 6th largest in the world.
All information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press. Due to uncertain circumstances, this may have changed after the date of publication. Please check businesses' individual websites for up-to-date details.
CONTENTS
In this issue
ETOSHA p12
Take a journey with Willie Olivier as he crosses Namibia’s most famous national park from west to east.
SALTY JACKAL p20
Find out what Namibia’s only surf backpackers is all about.
THE ULTIMATE SLOW TRAVEL p38
When the lure of adventure takes you on a tiny saddle through the north.
PHOTOGRAPHY FEATURE p46
Gerhard Thirion on Capturing the Wilderness
BIRDING p62
Pompie Burger takes a humorous look at bird names.
Also
10 BUSH TELEGRAPH News from the tourism industry
24 CONSERVATION is a family business at Mount Etjo
26 RMB RIDE FOR RHINOS Three days of cycling through Damaraland insearch of gentle giants
28 AN AFRICAN PARADISE Discovering Ongava - One of the country’s premier lodges
32 MEET THE POD MAHOGANY Getting to know the trees of the northeast
44 SUNDOWNERS Where to go for the best sunset views along the central coastline
53 LIVING WILD When living in the veld, sharing your home with other creatures can be daunting
54 NAMIBIA WITH WINGS Experience the country from the sky with FlyNamibia, the nation's new airline
58 FROM THE DESERT TO THE MOUNTAINS Whether it’s the sands of the Sossusvlei area or the granites of the Erongo Mountains you seek, Ondili has you covered
70 COMPANY Pompie’s view on solitary travel
Bush TELEGRAPH
News from the tourism industry
NAMIBIA LAUNCHES AU-TRUSTED TRAVEL SYSTEM
The Minister of Health and Social Services, Dr Kalumbi Shangula, officially launched the African Union and Africa Centers for Disease Control Trusted Travel System on 8 November. This is an online platform for the verification of travellers’ COVID-19 test results and vaccination certificates. Travellers entering or exiting Namibia need to create an account on the platform and obtain a Trusted Travel Test code prior to departure – this code needs to be shown to immigration officials. The system detects counterfeit test results and also enhances cross-border collaboration and confidence in COVID-19 results originating from participating jurisdictions. The platform further provides updated information on entry requirements and travel restrictions for participating states. After an initial trial period it was made mandatory to have all travellers’ PCR results entered on the system from 15 January 2022 at participating, gazetted points of entry into Namibia.
Before travelling, visit trustedtravel.panabios.org to enter your test result code and generate your travel code.
NEW HOSPITALITY AND SUPPORT TRAINER FOR WILDERNESS SAFARIS
Selma Benyameni has been promoted to hospitality and support trainer for Wilderness Safaris Namibia. Having spent over a decade in the Namibian tourism and hospitality industry, Selma has a wealth of expertise and experience. She started her career as beverage and front-of-house trainee at NamibRand Safaris’ Wolwedans Collection and over the next few years worked her way up in various lodges across Namibia. In 2017 Selma joined Wilderness Safaris as Hoanib Skeleton Camp’s assistant manager. She also did a stint at Serra Cafema before moving on to manage Desert Rhino Camp, and lastly Little Kulala.
NAMIBIA’S PLACE IN AFRICA'S EDEN
Africa's Eden (AE), the four-country private sector tourism association based in Botswana, paid a visit to Namibia in October as a sign of commitment towards equal representation and promotion of all four member countries (Botswana, Namibia, Zimbabwe and Zambia). The association is based on inclusivity and represents all levels of tourism in the destination, which is described as the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA TCA), and surrounding wildlife estates. The aim of AE is to maximise unique selling points, traditional destination marketing, technology and education to promote the region and its members. The brand prompts consumers and the travel trade to recognise the region as a single destination with multiple stops. Its members are a diverse group of all types of tourism entities. Namibian members thus far are Wild Waters Group in Zambezi, O&L Leisure, African Monarch Lodges, Zambezi Collection, Abenteuer Afrika and others. AE hopes to get more Namibian companies to join this initiative, especially in the wake of the second international trade show to be hosted by AE in 2022, which will take place in Swakopmund.
ONGAVA TO REOPEN ALL CAMPS IN APRIL 2022
Ongava Game Reserve reopened its doors to guests in June this year, in “safe mode” – i.e. only Ongava Lodge and Little Ongava were ready to receive guests. The company recently announced that Ongava Tented Camp and Anderssons at
PAUL VAN SCHALKWYK PHOTOGRAPHIC COLLECTION
Eight years after his untimely death north of Etosha when his Aircam aircraft crashed while on a photographic expedition, a selection of Paul van Schalkwyk’s fine art aerial photographs were published by Venture Media, the publishing house he founded in 1992.
Paul van Schalkwyk - A Photographic Collection was launched in Windhoek on 22 November at the Sky Lounge at Eros Airport in Windhoek, the first and last airfield he departed from in his quest to capture Namibia from the air. The 300-page limited edition coffee table book is available for sale
bonn@venture.com.na / bruni@bookden.com.na /
EXPLORING THE GREAT WHITE PLACE
from west to east
Text Willie Olivier
Photographs Willie Olivier & Elzanne MCulloch
Etosha, the Great White Place, stretches over a distance of 300 km from west to east as the proverbial crow flies. On my most recent visit I decided to traverse the park from Galton Gate in the west to Von Lindequist gate in the east – a journey of several hundred kilometres.
The park’s western-most reaches are completely unlike the vast plains extending eastwards of the Dolomietberge. Here, the landscape is punctuated by a discontinuous range of low hills and ridges stretching for close to 30 km from north to south. Most Etosha maps show a road close to the park’s western boundary, but this route is no longer open. The waterholes were closed a few years ago to discourage game from congregating close to the western boundary where there is a risk of getting poached or leaving the park when elephants break the fence.
My first port of call was Renostervlei where I did not see any rhinos, but a herd of elephant, Hartmann’s mountain zebra, kudu and gemsbok were in attendance. A short way on the road splits with a choice to continue to Olifantsrus campsite or to follow the road along Dolomietpoort. I opted for the latter.
Western Etosha has a large eland population and at Rateldraf I was overjoyed when I came across eland at the waterhole. They are nomadic and shy antelopes that usually retreat when disturbed. The 16 km out-and-return detour to Klippan was, likewise, rewarding with sightings of red hartebeest, gemsbok, Hartmann’s mountain zebra, blue wildebeest and giraffe.
By now, the temperature was approaching 40 °C and thus it was no surprise that there was little activity at the Dolomietpunt waterhole. From here, the road strikes northeast and for 100 km passes a series of waterholes drilled in the second half of the 1950s along what is generally known as the 19th Degree Latitude. These waterholes were intended to lure elephants into the park which were causing problems on commercial farms in the Kamanjab area.
Olifantsrus campsite has become extremely popular and much to my regret was fully booked for the next week, so I had to push on to Okaukuejo. Unlike the hides in the other rest camps, the Olifantsrus hide is outside the campsite and accessed via an elevated boardwalk. It has an open upper viewing deck that looks down onto the waterhole and the surrounding bush, while the hide on the ground offers eyelevel views of the waterhole from behind the safety of large glass windows.
The steel structures at Olifantsrus are a reminder of the hapless lot encountered by some 525 elephants in western Etosha in
1983 and 1985. Until then the borehole was a popular drinking place for elephants, but by a cruel twist of fate Olifantsrus became an abattoir during the devastating drought of the early 1980s. Over a thousand gemsbok and springbok were also culled and the carcasses were processed at the abattoir and transported out of the park in refrigerated trucks.
Ozonjuitji m’Bari, commonly referred to as Mbari, had undergone a complete transformation since my earlier visit during the rainy season when the plains were covered in verdant grassland. The area surrounding the waterhole now resembled a wasteland. Elephants were jostling to quench their thirst while springbok and the other animals were relegated to the sidelines, waiting patiently for their turn.
Unlike my February visit when the plains game had migrated to their summer grazing area, Grootvlakte was now virtually deserted as I made my way to Okaukuejo and the Gondwana Collection’s Etosha Safari Camp. Situated conveniently close to Andersson Gate, its main attraction is without doubt the informal shebeen-style bar with its eclectic collection of memorabilia and the resident Etosha Boys band that entertains guests in the evening.
At the top of my list of waterholes on day two was Okondeka, famous for many years for lion sightings. On approaching the spring I scanned the trees where they often lie during the day, but to no avail. Then, much to my surprise I spotted them lying in the open some distance from the parking area. Next was a quick visit to Newbrownii waterhole. Gemsbokvlakte, my next stop, is the dry season grazing area of the plains game but it could have been named Zebravlakte on account of the huge number of plains zebras at the waterhole and on the surrounding plains.
The saying “patience is a virtue” most certainly also applies to game-viewing, especially towards the end of the dry season. During the heat of the day the animals retreat into the bush to make use of what little shade is available. So it’s not unusual to arrive at a waterhole to find only the odd straggler hanging around. But suddenly, the waterhole comes alive as a seemingly endless parade of animals appears out of nowhere to drink. Then, just as suddenly as they appeared they disappear back into the bush. The waterholes in the Okaukuejo area did not disappoint and delivered elephant, giraffe, plains zebra, gemsbok, springbok, black-faced impala.
Having explored the Okaukuejo area it was time to relocate my base to Halali, so I headed off to Sueda, Charitsaub and Salvadora. At Sueda, a contact spring on the edge of the Etosha Pan, a white rhino was taking a mud bath in the feeble stream of water oozing from the spring. Next up was Charitsaub where the resident lion pride was making the most of what little shade the only tree on the plains produced.
• “In a far-sighted move, Dr Friedrich von Lindequist, Governor of the German Territory, proclaimed the region south, west and northwest of the pan a game reserve on 22 March 1907. Somewhat unimaginatively he named the area Game Reseve No 2." - Hu Berry, Etosha 100: Celebrating a hundred years of conservation.
• The first formally appointed, full-time Chief Game Warden of Etosha was Bernabé de la Bat in the 1950’s.
• In 1907 the park was about 90 000km2 AGE OF THE PARK:
ENTRANCE FEE: (As per Etosha website)
NAD 80.00 per day for foreign adults
NAD 60.00 per day for SADC adults
NAD 30.00 per day for Namibian adults
No charge for children under 16
NAD 10.00 per day for vehicles with 10 seats or less
NAD 40.00 per day for vehicles with 11-25 seats
NAD 300.00 per day for vehicles with 26-50 seats
lodges campsites
to Ruacana
Duineveld
Dolomite Resort
Dolomietpunt Klippan
Rateldraf Okondethe Luiperdskop Aasvo lbad Miernes
Otjovasandufontein Karoshoek Karospomp Karosfontein Renostervlei Jakkalswater Duikerdrink
Galton Gate
to Kamajab
Ozonjuitji mʼBari Sonderkop Duiwelsvuur
TERRESTRIAL VERTEBRATES
(amphibians, reptiles, birds and mammals):
ACCOMMODATION INSIDE THE PARK: 5 4 species
REPTILES
256 species of Namibian reptiles occur in Etosha
Adamax
Grunewald
Okawao
Panpoint
Narawandu
Okondeka
Taleni Village
Ongava Lodge
Okondeka
Wolfsnes Leeubron
Okaukuejo
Okaukuejo
Ombika
NUMBER OF WATERHOLES:
waterpoints and waterholes
GATES OPEN:
at sunrise and close at sunset
SPECIES OF BIRDS FOUND IN THE PARK: 412 64%
species of Namibia's total species found in the park
• species of international concern: Blue Crane, Lesser Flamingo
• density of Etosha Kori Bustard population is the highest recorded anywhere in the world.
48 km to the main road to Ondangwa
King Nehale lya Mpingana Gate
Nuamses
Gonob Salvadora Sueda Charitsaub Rietfontein Moringa Helio
Ondogab
Kapupuhedi
Gaseb
Andersson s
Namutoni
Von Lindquist Gate
Kalkheuwel
Dungariespomp Gobaub Noniams Goas
leni illage Onkoshi Resort Onguma Lodge Mushara Lodge Mokuti Lodge
177 km to Ondangwa
88 km to Outjo
2 endemic amphibians: AMPHIBIANS
• Marbled Rubber Frog
• Damara Dwarf Toad
MAMMALS:
species (53% of the Namibian non-marine mammal fauna of 200 species)
species of insectivores
species of bats
species of rodents
Kaokoveld Dassie only occurs within Etosha
After pitching my tent at Halali it was time for a late afternoon drive to check up on the lions at Charitsaub. They had in the meantime moved into the long shade cast by the solitary tree – almost creating a roadblock. I headed back to Halali and a night vigil at the Moringa waterhole after supper.
Halali was the only rest camp without a waterhole on its perimeter until an artificial waterhole, Moringa, was created in 1992. Set against the slope of Halali Koppie, the viewing deck provides a grandstand view onto the waterhole. My patience was rewarded with sightings of five black rhino, the resident leopard and a spotted hyaena, but the lions which occasionally visit the waterhole did not show up.
On my first visit to Goas there was little activity, but two hours later it was a hive of activity with elephants, plains
zebras, black-faced impalas and kudus in attendance. At Nuamses, one of my favourite waterholes, a herd of elephants was slaking their thirst while a throng of plains zebras patiently waited their turn. Their hopes were dashed when another herd of elephants made their appearance at the waterhole.
After two nights camping at Halali I relocated to Namutoni. My journey took me to Goas, Springbokfontein and Batia and I made the detour, which affords expansive views of the Etosha Pan, to Okerfontein. On my way to Namutoni I kept my eyes peeled for cheetahs and much to my joy found two lying in the shade of a thorn tree close to the road.
The Klein Namutoni, Klein Okevi, Groot Okevi, Chudop and Kalkheuwel waterholes are situated close to Namutoni
and are ideal for early morning or late afternoon drives. The Fischer’s Pan Drive is a delightful early morning or late afternoon excursion. Unlike February, when the pan was filled with water, it was now just a white expanse of cracked mud. Aroe waterhole was bone dry, and there was no activity at Twee Palms which is now marked by only a single palm tree.
A late afternoon drive to Klein Namutoni waterhole delivered the usual visitors – giraffe, kudu, black-faced impala and plains zebra. Dik-Dik Drive, as always, lived up to its name and despite the recent fire in the area, several of these dainty little antelopes were browsing right next to the road.
On my last morning in the park I decided to make a quick turn to the Klein Namutoni waterhole – a decision I did not regret. I finally spotted the resident leopard to complete my sightings of
Etosha’s Big Four. Heading north to Andoni, the plain was still covered in a swathe of tall grass, and except for a lone gemsbok at the Osohama waterhole and a scattering of blue wildebeest and springbok there was little early morning activity. But, much to my delight, I saw five blue cranes in the grasslands near the Andoni waterhole.
Having travelled several hundred kilometres in temperatures approaching 40 °C and visiting 44 waterholes, many of them more than once, my checklist - in addition to Etosha’s Big Four (elephant, rhino, lion and leopard) - had ticks against 20 other species, not to mention the rich diversity of birds. Etosha had, once again, lived up to its reputation of one of Africa’s great game parks. TNN
Salty Jackalsurfing
Text & Photographs Le Roux van Schalkwyk
On a misty Swakopmund afternoon we walk through the front gate of Salty Jackal Backpackers and Surf Camp, an accommodation establishment centred around the cultures of surfing and free-spirited travellers. The laid-back atmosphere is immediately tangible. Several guests are lounging on outside couches conversing in German while French voices can be heard from inside the building – the sort of international flair that you only find at backpackers, where meeting new and interesting people is part of the reason to stay there.
We meet Oliver Peters, founder of Salty Jackal, and his partner Iris Hysko at the reception. Iris, who is from Italy, originally came to Namibia to do volunteer work at schools in Swakopmund’s informal settlements. She joined Oliver in 2019. Sitting down for a chat in the garden, surrounded by veggies and herbs, the couple tells us more about the country’s only surf backpackers.
It all started when the surf bug bit Oliver while studying engineering at the University of Stellenbosch in South Africa. During surf trips with friends along the South African coast he got introduced to the thriving backpacking scene. At the time a career in engineering didn’t sound too appealing and he started looking at other options. But one thing he was adamant about: “I made a deal with myself that I would work and live close to the ocean so that I can surf without having to spend hours getting there or travel long distances for it.”
While spending holidays in Swakopmund Oliver saw an opportunity. “We have some amazing waves in Namibia but there was no real surf infrastructure for visiting surfers,
hardly a surf shop around, no surf schools and no cool backpackers.” Developing his idea around the three things he is passionate about – surfing, sustainable living and extraordinary food – he transformed his grandparents’ former holiday home into a cosy accommodation establishment that can sleep 14 guests. Namibia’s first surf backpackers officially opened its doors in mid-2017.
Salty Jackal consists of four double rooms and a dorm with six beds. “What people like about it is that it’s small and feels like a home. They get to meet and spend time with other guests, staff and our international volunteers in an intimate, homely setting,” Oliver says. Centrally located, Salty Jackal is just a short walk from the centre of town. Bicycles can be rented from the backpacker to get around quicker. A neatly painted map of the town on a wall at the reception shows the surf spots as well as other points of interest such as restaurants and shops.
Tapping into other passions, the couple regularly hosts braais and dinners for guests. Oliver and Iris are also passionate about the environment and sustainability. They produce bio-gas and Salty Jackal is set up to be as energy-efficient and waterwise as possible.
SALTY JACKAL SURF SCHOOL
With the onset of Covid-19, when borders were closed, the
couple had to rethink the business concept and noticed a local demand for surf lessons. Oliver started giving lessons on request, qualified as a surf coach and eventually started the Salty Jackal Surf School, the only one of its kind in Namibia.
The surf school is open to anyone who is keen to learn. It offers once-off lessons, packages as well as courses and video analysis for the more advanced surfers.
SURF CAMPS
This year Salty Jackal launched the first surf camp. There is a demand for active holidays, he says. Salty Jackal surf camps are packages that include daily surfing, accommodation at the backpackers, some meals and activities. Guests spend at least a week experiencing the variety of surf spots in and around Swakopmund. “Namibia offers the opportunity to surf in unspoilt nature against a background of dunes and maybe a jackal running on the beach. The waves are great and visitors have a chance to improve their surfing without too many people in the water,” Oliver says.
NAMIB SUSTAINABLE WAVES
Also wanting to give back to the community, Namib Sustainable Waves is a project that has humble beginnings and big dreams. It started with taking a number of children
from the local informal settlements out for a day teaching them about gardening, how to surf as well as providing a meal for them. The youngsters enjoyed it so much that soon they wanted to bring their friends along – Oliver and Iris therefore turned the outings into regular events. Apart from surfing and providing meals for the kids, other educational activities were added, like visiting the museum and the aquarium and working with organisations like Aquamund, DRC School Project and Good Food Namibia. Oliver and Iris have also been fortunate to have personalities like Dickie Chivell from Discovery Channel’s Shark Week and pro surfer Koa Smith speaking to the children about their profession.
“Our mission is to provide an inspirational experience that promotes a healthy lifestyle, raise awareness of their potential in life and the opportunities out there to achieve more than they can think of,” Iris says about the project.
The couple is in the process of registering a charitable trust with a vision of eventually being able to set up a community centre. A centre where these children can spend time after school, not only for fun and surfing but also where qualified teachers and counselors help them with school work, career advice and issues at home. “We want to create a safe space where they meet one another and other people from the community with whom they can have fun,” Iris says. TNN
Phone: +264 81 465 1465
Email: info@saltyjackal.com
Street address: 37 Anton Lubowski Ave, Swakopmund Website: www.saltyjackal.com
SALTY JACKAL BACKPACKERS AND SURF CAMP
family business Conservation is a
Sandra Windisch writes about the Oelofse family and the continuation of a proud legacy in conservation.
Many articles have been written about Jan Oelofse, his method, his work, his legacy. So how could I make sure this is not just another article on the world-renowned conservationist and game capturer? By shifting the focus to his wife, Annette Oelofse, her son and to the next generation.
What the black polo-neck was for Steve Jobs, a leather hat and boots is for Annette. No one has seen her without it.
Namibia's conservation landscape has Annette, the Rhino Whisperer – firmly on the map. Always by Jan’s side, she was his wing(wo)man, in more ways than one. Looking into the life and work of this fascinating matriarch,
Annette is rigorous when it comes to her calling to conserve endangered species and has led many projects, even relocating elephants to Central Africa. Often her grandchildren are part of such a commotion, buzzing around – not frightened at all – between darted elephants, 40 ft trucks and things-with-wings.
How do they say? Teach 'em young.
Somewhere on a quaint terrace at Mount Etjo. I can just picture Jan rolling his eyes at this journalist afraid of spiders. An overseas author was flown to Mount Etjo many years ago, as Jan was keen to make all his stories heard. After countless interviews and then reading the script Jan was
disappointed as he felt the author had not captivated the would-be readers. Another author was flown in. This time around Jan’s excitement was already on the unexcited level. Suffice to say, that visit turned into a disappointment as well. Finally Annette gave in, saying she would compile and gather all the life experiences, as she was always there and knew exactly what and how it needed to be said. Two years and lots of hard work later, Capture to be free was released and became an instant international bestseller. The greatest thing about it is: Jan got to see his achievements in a great book, set for many generations to learn from and aspire to.
When observing Annette you get the feeling that she has a deep love affair with Africa, that she is right where she ought to be, with her rhinos, feeding the young and fragile ones five times a day.
And at 6 am sharp, Annette is cleaning the lodge’s pool, as she is pedantic about it being sparkling clean. This makes for some interesting conversations with lodge guests, who can’t believe their luck.
The sudden death of Jan Oelofse in 2012 was a shock and a deeply felt setback for the Oelofse family, the teams at Mount Etjo and the Rhino Sanctuary.
Suddenly Annette seemed alone in her endeavours, but not quite: Carola and Alex quickly rose to accept responsibility for the operations and projects. Annette and Jan’s son, Alex, is tall, handsome and humble. At his side, his creative wife Carola looks like a younger version of Annette, the resemblance nothing short of striking.
This is a glimpse into a typical day in their life: Alex, who is
a mechanical engineer, wakes up at the crack of dawn to go out with his helicopter and look for an injured rhino on the neighbouring farm. Soon afterwards the Mini-Hataris Jan and Keira are wide awake, requesting entertainment the whole day long. In between feeds, cooking and lodge visits, Carola also bakes a three-tier cake with them, in a way we would bake pre-mixed cupcakes.
Some days the children are just with Alex, from sunrise to sunset. In the workshop, in the field, on the back of a bakkie, halfway up a wind pump, flying the plane themselves if they could.
During most afternoons a private tutor comes in for the kids from Mount Etjo Private School, which the children will attend from 2022. Their lessons give Carola time to attend to bookings and logistics and before it’s dinner, bath and off to bed the kids join their dad fixing a broken water pump out in the field. You would expect mom to fall straight into bed, but no, she starts painting wildlife pictures! And at 23h00 a distraught camper calls because he can’t find the light switch at his ablution.
I asked Carola why she doesn’t have an online store for her artwork, to sell it to overseas clients for lots of money. She said that is a good idea, she will sell them for lots of money to give to Annette for her rhinos.
Looking at little Jan, walking around in his boots and hat, cat in arm, wildly explaining something about the kudu at the waterhole just a few metres away – you realise that passing on Jan Oelofse’s name to his first grandchild is a blessing and not a burden. At his young age, Jan seems eager to follow the footsteps and fill the large shoes, one day, one elephant song at a time. TNN
Ride for The RMB Rhinos 2021
Text & Photographs Le Roux van Schalkwyk
The arrival of riders for the 2021 RMB Ride for Rhinos coincided with World Rhino Day on Wednesday 22 September. While the theme for this year’s World Rhino Day is Five Rhino Species Forever, the yearly RMB Ride for Rhinos is an event that is intended to create awareness for the plight of one rhino species in particular – the black rhino.
The last free-roaming population of black rhino is found in Namibia. To achieve this feat, tremendous efforts went into saving and protecting what was left of a decimated population in Namibia’s northwest during the late 1980s. Thanks to the tireless work of the Save the Rhino Trust, and later through the conservation efforts of conservancies and other organisations, the black rhino population in this area could grow to what it is today. In recent years, however, illegal trade in rhino horn has once again called for extraordinary endeavours to protect this valuable species for future generations.
This year marked the 7th RMB Ride for Rhinos. It took place in the Palmwag Concession with Wilderness Safaris Desert Rhino Camp as the base camp treating riders to its luxurious lodging facilities. As always, this exclusive event is limited to a small group made up of cycling enthusiasts who are up for the challenge of riding in the extremely tough and rocky terrain of Damaraland. The three routes of the three-day event consisted of everything from bumpy jeep and game tracks to some riverbeds and even a King of the Hill section to test the already tired legs of the participants.
The first day was undoubtedly the most challenging due to a combination of the September Damaraland heat and a tough
rocky route of over 35 km that traverses several hills and valleys. With energy restored after a delicious lunch and icecold drinks under shady trees, riders were revived enough to go on a game drive. Thanks to Save the Rhino Trust trackers the group were fortunate enough to spot three black rhinos. A fantastic reward after the morning’s strenuous cycling.
Over the next two days, temperatures were more forgiving and guide extraordinaire, Johan Fourie, went easier on the riders with slightly less technical and tough routes.
Taking place in a protected area, wildlife sightings of springbok, ostrich, gemsbok and giraffe are part and parcel of the ride. Over the last seven years some riders have been lucky enough to see elephants and lions and, of course most importantly, black rhinos.
On the last evening, riders were treated to an informative presentation on brown hyenas by Emsie Verwey of the Skeleton Coast Brown Hyaena Project. As is tradition, the tour was wrapped up with a lamb spit made by braai master Gerhard Thirion and sharing stories next to the campfire among friends new and old until late into the night.
This year’s event was made special by having Maruen Kleopas and Tuhafeni Hamundjebo along, thanks to CYMOT generously sponsoring their participation fees. The two youngsters are part of the Development Riders Programme jointly sponsored by CYMOT and RMB, and they are seen as exciting prospects for Namibian cycling in years to come.
The 2021 RMB Ride for Rhinos took place from 22 to 26 September. Ride for Rhinos is an initiative by Venture Media in partnership with RMB, Wilderness Safaris and CYMOT. Funds raised through the ride are invested into various black rhino conservation projects in north-western Namibia. TNN
Namibian Safari The quintessential at Ongava
Text & Photographs Le Roux van Schalkwyk
From the back of a game viewer driving through Ongava Game Reserve, it is hard to imagine what the area must have looked like 30 years ago when it was still a cluster of unproductive cattle farms. Today it is a protected piece of land where antelope are plentiful and lion, rhino and elephant freely go about their business, all part of and contributing to a healthy, thriving biome. Thanks to a massive drive towards the reintroduction of wildlife, unwavering conservation efforts and tireless research – not to mention four exceptional lodges on the property – Ongava offers its guests a truly authentic safari experience in an African paradise.
Situated on the southern boundary of Etosha National Park, just west of Andersson Gate, the 30 000 ha Ongava was founded in 1991 when several families bought four cattle farms to turn it into a sanctuary for wildlife. Since then, Ongava has grown to become one of the premier safari destinations in Namibia.
Apart from offering guests the opportunity to visit the worldrenowned Etosha, being situated literally on its doorstep, Ongava’s guided drives are unforgettable experiences. The reserve boasts more than 100 different mammal species, including anything from white and black rhino to the nearendemic Damara dik-dik, Koakoveld rock hyrax (dassie) and black-faced impala.
Setting the experience apart from others are Ongava’s guides. Their passion for the land and its wildlife is contagious as they share their understanding and love of the wild with guests. Their intimate knowledge is truly showcased when asked to also point out the smaller inhabitants of the reserve and to explain why white-browed sparrow-weavers build nests on the west side of the tree or how to find mopane worms in trees by looking for their droppings.
Rhino approaching on foot in the company of your trained guides is part of our quintessential African adventure.
Adding to the experience is Ongava’s four lodges, each with its unique atmosphere and style – a blend of luxurious seclusion integrated with the colours and textures of the Namibian bush.
ONGAVA LODGE
Overlooking the stunning landscape of the reserve from atop one of the foothills of the Ondundozonanandana range, Ongava Lodge offers luxury accommodation in 14 rock-and-thatch en-suite chalets. The deck of the main lounge and dining area overlooks a productive waterhole. Starlit dinners on the deck while watching a variety of wildlife visiting the waterhole below makes for the perfect end to an eventful day.
LITTLE ONGAVA
Namibia’s most luxurious and exclusive camp, Little Ongava is designed for privacy, luxury and closeness to its surroundings. Perched on the crest of a hill, each of the three suites as well as the dining area is graced with extraordinary views over the plains below. Designed to be an intimate camp, each spacious suite has its own plunge pool, en-suite bathroom, sala and outdoor shower. A private guide and vehicle ensures the best possible nature experience.
ONGAVA TENTED CAMP
Situated at the foot of a dolomite hill, nestled among the mopane trees, Ongava Tented Camp is a classic safari-style camp. Sleeping under the canvas of one of the eight large comfortable Meru-style tents and listening to the bush sounds harks back to the days of early adventurers. Cooling off in the swimming pool allows for a unique eye-level view of wildlife as they drink at the waterhole in front of the main area. Ongava Tented Camp is the best way to be completely immersed in the Namibian bush.
ANDERSSONS AT ONGAVA
Anderssons at Ongava was designed as a direct extension of the landscape using colours, textures and materials to connect guests more closely to their safari experience. It has seven contemporary luxury guest units and one family unit. Built using natural elements, the spacious suites reflect the environment while still giving guests the utmost luxury and comfort. Guests
can relax on their own private viewing deck with a 180-degree panorama or have an eye-level game viewing experience watching wildlife at the camp waterhole from an underground photographic hide.
ONGAVA RESEARCH CENTRE
Situated at Anderssons at Ongava, the Ongava Research Centre is home to the reserve’s resident scientists and visiting researchers. Being home to some incredibly rare and endangered species, the mission of the research centre is to learn more about these animals and help protect them. The Ongava Research Centre’s Visitor Centre allows guests a glimpse into the cutting-edge research being done here.
As a result of the worldwide pandemic, Ongava was operating in “safe mode” during 2021, reopening only Ongava Lodge and Little Ongava to guests. However, as of 1 April 2022, all four camps will be open again. TNN
Meet the Pod Mahogany
Getting to know the trees of the northeast
In this latest series we explore the beauty of trees with our beloved local nature-enthusiasts and authors, Helga and Pompie Burger. Each with a unique voice and opinions on how best to identify the trees of the Kavango and Zambezi, Helga and Pompie help us through the tricky trials of identifying northeastern Namibia’s most iconic flora.
This dark green tree, in my mind one of the largest in the bushveld, provides much needed shade to various animals. For me however its special attraction are the flowers with their single red largish petals and the numerous stamens, twisting and turning in all directions making it tricky to photograph. The large woody fruit, once split open, reveal another wonder: tidily arranged black and red seeds in creamy compartments. Amazing!
- Helga Burger
If you were to launch a competition amongst the trees there is no doubt in my mind that the Pod Mahogany, with the seeds arranged in their fruit like a smile with rotten teeth, will be the winner by a long shot as far as seeds are concerned. Although the tree itself is not so massive - only 20 metres high - it still gives sufficient shade for 20 people to relax under and enjoy looking at the seeds and birds enjoying the seeds. As one would expect of any self-respecting bauhinia, the flowers are beautiful.
- Pompie Burger
Compound glossy leaves Perfectly imbedded seeds
Pieces of bark found underneath the tree
Semi-deciduous dark green tree
AN EASY GUIDE TO IDENTIFYING THE POD MAHOGANY
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Afzelia quanzensis
AFRIKAANS: Peulmahonie
GERMAN: Schoten-Mahagoni
LOZI: Mwande
MAP GUIDE
STRIKING FEATURES OF THE POD MAHOGANY TREE
• Massive dark green tree with dense wide crown
• Flowers are small and orange-red
• Beautiful seeds inside the massive fruit are red and black
SEASONS OF THE POD MAHOGANY TREE
DRINK & DRIVE
• Huge 20 metres semi-deciduous dark green tree
• Bark peels off in thick woody discs
• Trunk and branches are a dark reddish brown
STOP & STARE
• Flowers are sweetly scented
• Each flower has only one petal
• Leaflets, of the compound leaf are glossy on both sides and show prominent veins
TOUCH & TASTE
• The thick woody fruit is oblong and flattened
• Seeds are waxy and black with a scarlet cap
• Seeds are perfectly imbedded in powdery white pulp
DOWN UNDER
• Lots of pieces of bark are found underneath the tree
• Animals which love the fruit or seek shade are also found underneath these trees
• The Pod Mahogany grows in sandy soil and riverine forests
This article is an extract from The unbearable beauty of trees: 56 magnificent trees of Kavango and Zambezi written by Helga Burger, published in 2020.
To order The unbearable beauty of trees , contact Bonn at bonn@venture.com.na
Namibia
Namibia Photography of the Year Awards
Enter your ultimate Namibian photograph into our competition and stand a chance to win incredible prizes!
Three Categories:
WILDLIFE
Prize: 2 Nights for 2 all inclusive at Ongava Lodge
LANDSCAPES
Prize: 2 Nights for 2 (Dinner, Bed and Breakfast) at any Ondili Lodges & Activities establishment
PEOPLE & CULTURE
Prize: Return flight for two on any FlyNamibia route
How to enter:
Submit your high resolution image (or images) to content@venture.com.na. Submission must include your name, contact details, the category you are submitting to and a short description of the image. Images must be originals and you must hold the copyright thereto.
Terms and Conditions apply. See www.travelnewsnamibia.com for more information.
In partnership with
The ultimate slow travel is
on a bicycle
Text Rièth van Schalkwyk
Photographs Louis Wessels
Don’t ask a cyclist who has done most epic cycle events in South Africa and Namibia why he needs to pedal 1400 km solo all along Namibia’s northern border from east to west – from Katima Mulilo on the banks of the Zambezi to Epupa Falls on the Kunene. From the water-rich riverine north-east to the arid semidesert of Kaokoland. From the region with the highest rural population density to one with the lowest.
It seems like the silliest question to ask because the answer will always be “why not?”
As the story unfolds, though, it becomes clear that there is a lot more behind the “why not” than just pushing the pedals.
On two wheels, with only the bare essentials fixed to a light frame, slow travel is the reality. To be in tune with only what goes on around you and your bike. With no back-up, itinerary or time constraint, life along the road is like a slow shifting movie set or a reality TV show in which you also play your part as a source of entertainment to onlookers.
It is a physical challenge. September in northern Namibia is hot and dry. You better be in the saddle before sunrise when the sky and then the sun turn spectacularly red from the haze and dust in the air.
Early morning is the busy time along the road. People are coming and going. Locals on bicycles do not ride for fun. They carry wood, take children to school or transport their wares to and from.
On a bicycle the rider becomes part of the scenery and almost part of the community. You sweat in the same heat as the woman and children who carry heavy piles of water to irrigate their small fields, or boys herding cattle, riding on a donkey cart, catch and sell fish or push their wire toy lorries along to a roadside market.
To be a keen photographer on a solo cycle tour poses yet another kind of challenge.
How to minimize weight and space? No passenger seat with camera bag open and ready. No beanbag in an open window. Best you can do is a fixed-lens Sony strapped to the handlebar. Forget about a tripod.
You see the photo. The light is perfect. Smiling faces glow. Water splashes against the sun. Glorious. But then you have to get off the bike and secure it with all that is strapped to it. Get rid of the gloves. Get the camera out, ready and focused before the moment is gone. Then, just when you are ready, the photo opportunity is lost as the subject disappears or moves on.
Best time to capture the mood and the movement of life by the roadside is during a lunch break in the shade of a camelthorn tree with its sweet smelling yellow pom-pom blossoms. You know it is Sunday when a parade of brightly dressed chirpy villagers walk past carrying their bibles. Big smiles on happy faces greet you when you share the shade with women binding heaps of thatching grass while the kids play in sandy soil, blackened by veld fires over millennia. To sit against a mopane tree having a midday snack when the rustling of dry leaves turns out to be a passing herd of elephant is quite scary. Even if the temptation to move closer for a photograph is very real. One learns quickly how close is too close for getting away from danger on a bicycle.
That is while cycling from Katima Mulilo, through Mudumu National Park and the communal land and communal conservancies of five Caprivian tribes. They make a living tending crops, catching fish, farming with cattle and from the many opportunities provided by a thriving tourism sector (that was before Covid, but it is slowly returning). Wildlife and people live together in this region. Elephant and zebra migrate through to Botswana and back. Lion, leopard and cheetah are sometimes spotted unexpectedly. Buffalo herds move from woodlands to the flood plains to feed and to drink from the river.
At Kongola you cross the Kwando River into Bwabwata National Park and 200 km later you cross the bridge over
the Okavango River at Divundu and Bagani, entering into the Kavango people’s traditional land along the Okavango. On towards Rundu, travelling on the old gravel road. At Nkurunkuru you turn westward away from the river leaving behind the hustle and bustle and abundant wildlife of the north-east.
On a rather straight, relatively new, tarred road through woodland you enter the land of the Aavambo people and 160 km further on reach a small town of Okongo.
From there it is flat and straight – parallel to the man-made border between Namibia and Angola through Eenhana, Okolongo and Outapi, which intersects with the main road from Oshakati to Ruacana. Through Efunja flood plains, past villages and roadside shops, clusters of tall makalani palm trees interspersed with the odd giant baobab tree closer to Outapi. No roadside camping on this stretch, but there is comfortable accommodation in guesthouses in the towns.
From Outapi it is straight on to Ruacana which signals the end of flat, sandy landscapes. This is also the place where the Kunene enters Namibia from Angola and where Namibia’s only hydroelectric power station was built in 1981. A spectacular view from the top of the escarpment over dense mopane woodland and the Kunene River valley down below is not the only treat. It also provides the first glorious downhill sections
of the entire route, followed by undulating landscape and a white limestone gravel road for the last 150 km, past Swartbooidrift to Epupa. Your average speed drops by almost a third in what is quite a physical challenge.
This last stretch is Kaokoland where the nomadic Himba people move about to where the grazing is best, but during the past few years of severe drought they stayed close to the river. It is a completely different world from that where the route started. It is wild in a singular way, sparsely populated with much less abundant wildlife, but interesting vegetation and geography. For the first time on this tour there are mountain ranges, the Zebra Mountains being the most interesting geological feature. They display a feast of different Commiphora trees with their interesting forms, especially without leaves in the dry season, and on the riverbank makalani palm trees grow in dense clusters as well as old leadwood and ana trees. Along the way you may encounter Himba women in their traditional dress, or a young man walking with a stick and bundle behind his goats.
Over the last steep climb and down to the little village, the palm trees and picturesque Epupa Falls.
17 days later. TNN
at the Coast Sundowners
Text & Photographs Ena Visagie
Abeautiful sunset has our generation in raptures. Captured, captioned and posted, as the sun says its last goodbyes before disappearing until tomorrow. Understandably so, especially when in Namibia where the Namib Desert meets a restless ocean. This is Namibia, raw and rejuvenating!
Here are a few of my favourite spots for sundowners at the coast. Picturesque, yes. But I want to encourage you to put your cellphone and camera away, and just relish the magical moment.
WALVIS BAY LAGOON
With some catching up to do to resemble the Sea Point promenade in Cape Town, the Walvis Bay Lagoon is one of the most peaceful places to enjoy the sunset, and luckily, not nearly as congested. This is where locals walk their dogs or go for a run, and where tourists take photographs of the pink flamingos and multicoloured sunset.
VOGELFEDERBERG
Vogelfederberg is a mountain in the Erongo Region, no more than an hour’s drive from Walvis Bay. There are great camping spots but you can also just make it a late afternoon trip to enjoy sundowners. The wonderful thing about the view from the mountain is that you not only have the sunset to admire but also get to experience dusk in your desert surroundings. Drinks, sun, sand and sea!
THE DUNES
Engage 4x4 mode! Any dune next to the road between Swakopmund and Walvis Bay is a good spot for sundowners! Pack your drinks and get going a little earlier to allow for time to play around in the dunes, whether with your vehicle, children or dogs. It is the perfect way to end the day – unwind and enjoy quality time. If you are up for it, and the wind allows, I highly recommend packing a small grill for boerie-rolls.
THE BEACH
The beach can be the perfect location for a romantic sundowner date or a fun outing with friends and family. The Benguela Current along Namibia’s coastline is the reason why the water is quite cold (max around 20°C), but nevertheless many people love swimming here. Whether it is a weeknight or a weekend, someone will always have a line in the water, tempting their luck for a fish, while others are flying kites riding motorbikes or just admiring the view.
BAY HOTEL SKY BAR
The Bay View Hotel in Dolphin Beach is right on the beachfront, and it has a sky bar on the top floor. Small, but a front row seat for the sunset, and cocktails to order – yes please! TNN
RESTAURANTS WITH STUNNING SUNSET VIEWS
• Jetty 1905, Swakopmund
• The Tug, Walvis Bay
• Blue Grass, Swakopmund
• Anchors, Walvis Bay
• Rojos, Walvis Bay
Gerhard Thirion on Capturing the Wilderness
Gerhard Thirion grew up on a 106 000-ha game farm north of Etosha National Park where he developed a burning passion for wildlife, nature and indigenous cultures at a very early age.
He initially pursued a career in the aviation industry as a loadmaster with the national airline. Fuelled by his love for aircraft and flying, this was where his interest in photography was conceived.
Even when Gerhard became operations manager at a courier company, nothing could dampen his longing for the Namibian wilderness. He decided to do two years of freelance guiding while qualifying as a professional guide and eventually joined Wilderness Safaris as a private guide. He also managed the iconic Serra Cafema Camp and later returned to become the general manager for Wilderness Safaris’ Explorations Department in Namibia, which means he is still actively involved in all aspects of guiding.
Gerhard believes he has the best job in the world as it allows him to share his profound love for Namibia and its diverse wildlife, cultures and landscapes with his guests. His travels also allow him to photograph some of Namibia’s most sought-after wildlife.
Of his photography, he says: “As a guide, it comes naturally to keep a record of what I do. I am privileged to access some of the best areas of our country, and you just have to take photos; it’s difficult not to. This also presents me with the opportunity to capture and share the exquisite beauty of our beloved country.”
“Wildlife photography can be very challenging as your subject and surroundings constantly change while you have little control of your environment, which makes it so much more rewarding when you get it right.”
Gerhard started out with a compact camera but was limited in terms of speed, zoom and quality. He eventually upgraded to a DSLR and currently shoots with an Olympus OM-D thanks to a partnership between Olympus and Wilderness Safaris. The two companies joined forces to use their high-end services and combined passion for wildlife photography to ensure the ongoing conservation of Africa’s remote wilderness areas whilst contributing to the empowerment of local people through conservation education. TNN
Living in the land of sand and freedom There’s a something in the storeroom
Text & Photographs Lee Tindall
And it is making a weird noise. I have heard this noise before, it is hard to describe – think of a combination of gurgling, a water drop and a high pitched hiccup – and I find it deeply distressing! ‘Something’ turns out to be a squirrel that has managed to maneuver itself into the corner of the storeroom, under some boxes and behind the camping table (the store room is a mess, even describing this has raised my heart rate and made me add “clean out storeroom’’ to the old to-do list). Thankfully Murray is home and responds timeously to this call of very mild distress, and annoyance.
This is not an uncommon occurrence. There have been several events which have started with “muuuur.” “Dad dad dadadadad…there is a rrrrrr (gurgled, slightly frantic muttering) over there.”, This is a small person who is panting, arms waving and hands showing the size of the ‘something’ while also practicing safety first, the way we have taught them. The other classic opener to this type of encounter is “Looove, bring the torch”. A change takes place in all of our voices, a change in pitch, a cold forced calm that indicates snake. Murray has gotten to know this well. It has been a while since we have had a snake around – the drought has caused the ecosystems to change somewhat. This is a small selection of moments.
At one of our homes in the desert, when our son was still very little and our daughter was even littler, we went through a patch where Kunene Shield cobras were seen regularly and all over the place. They were mostly tiny ones, which was not comforting to me, however, figuring that where there are small things there must be a big thing that created the small things and in some cases, if you know a bit about biology, probably two big things. I like to pretend I am calm and mother earthy. But I am not! My heart rate spikes with very little encouragement.
Back to the Kunene Shield Cobra snakes. After catching some and removing them I was lulled into a false sense of safety. One day we were stepping out of the house, small boy walking in front of us and small girl being carried, when one of the small Kunene Shields was also moving around outside our house, doing what snakes do. Our son was not paying attention and by the absolute skin of his teeth, missed standing on the snake’s head and only stood on a short part of its tiny tail. I screamed and shoved small boy in the opposite direction. This
may have looked as if I was being pushy or nasty, but it was a rescue attempt. The snake made off pretty quickly and did not look back, leaving our son confused and me hyper-ventilating and wondering if I wasn’t actually asthmatic.
My least favourite critter of all time is the solifugae – dear reader, as I type this my body has broken out in goosebumps and a chill has gone down my back. There have been many moments with these hairy, utterly unappealing creepy-crawlies. One evening I was on the loo, as one invariably needs to be at times, and glimpsed a fast movement across from me. There is a special, unmistakable way in which these animals move. With zero thought my legs shot up, off the floor – stretched out in front of me and I called Murray. He knew what to expect, and entered the bathroom with a Tupperware container in hand. Catching them is always tricky because they are so incredibly fast and all their legs move, and their little fine hairs that serve a purpose jiggle – it is actually quite remarkable. One night we were sitting on the couch when my spidey-sense started tingling and I knew, before I saw the movement, that a solifugae was hanging out. It scuttled across the floor and under the table. Again, my legs lifted, I probably went pale and my breathing changed. Words were said, “it’s huge’’ and I pointed. Murray, convinced I was exaggerating, was quite casual until he saw it. The Tupperware container was too small, another larger one was found. This solifugae ran circles around us and in and out from under all the furniture, until it ended up under our son’s bed. I briefly wondered if we could lift our boy out and then set fire to the room. Husband was not impressed by this helpful suggestion! Eventually the spider was caught. Relief. Son slept through it all! We thought we would put the solifugae in a cooler box (yes, it was big!). As Murray tipped the Tupperware, something happened and instead of going into the cooler, the critter ended up on the verandah. It is only because Murray spent more time looking for it and recapturing it, that I didn’t move my entire family to the Arctic where such creatures don’t exist.
There are many small and many bigger creatures that love to share our homes. We always attempt a live capture and release. The truth is that we moved into their spaces, and it is only fair that we share with them. More often than not, there is limited time and opportunity for photos (luckily, for some of us!), therefore many of these are undocumented. TNN
Namibia
with wings
Text Elzanne McCulloch
Photographs Paul van Schalkwyk
From stark desertscapes to lush woodlands. Rugged mountainous terrains to smooth, uninterrupted coastline. Namibia is as geographically and topographically diverse as it is culturally. The land of endless horizons. That is how we have known, and marketed, Namibia since our young country’s birth. Our great expanse of sights and delights is unsurpassed. This country is far bigger than its measly 2,5 million inhabitants would make you believe, and exploring its vast reaches is not always as simple, or as quick, as a traveller’s itinerary allows for. What is the best way to discover the hidden corners and far-off hinterlands of Africa’s most spectacular safari destination? Well, how about with wings…
Namibia from above is... otherworldly. The dramatic change in scenery as you soar over the endless landscapes will leave your head spinning and your heart pumping. It starts with your descent from places far and wide into Hosea Kutako International Airport. If you are from abroad, it is a strange sight. This seemingly small airfield pretending to be an international airport – yet it is surrounded by nothing. Sloping hills, a mountain or two in the not-too-far distance. The vegetation is nothing but semi-arid acacia bush. Jetsetters are used to the view of sprawling cities that run adjacent to large airports with numerous terminals and more than one runway. You are probably used to spotting a landmark or two during your taxi ride into your destination airport. But Hosea Kutako
is different. Your Namibian safari starts right here. We wouldn’t even be surprised if you got to tick off your first wildlife sightings on the 30-minute drive into the capital. From Windhoek, the very heart of the country both geographically and in most other senses of the word, you can spread your wings even further. The possibilities are endless. Just like the horizons that lie in wait.
Start your journey with a quick 40-minute jaunt southward towards the towering ochre dunes of the Namib Sand Sea, a UNESCO world heritage site. There, the famous Sossusvlei and Deadvlei awaits, with its stark white pan dotted by ancient petrified camel thorn trees, surrounded by star-shaped red
dunes, the tallest in the world. You will spy these wondrous formations first-hand as you float over them from this desert hotspot (no pun intended) towards the magnificent coast. Intermittently dotted with now famous shipwrecks and other crafts, Namibia’s coastline, with the exception of five municipal areas, is the only stretch of shore in the world which is entirely protected within national parks. The cold Atlantic meets the pristine Namib Desert along these 1,570 kilometres from the border with South Africa to our northern neighbour, Angola. Spot the Eduard Bohlen and Shawnee wrecks on your journey, and delight in the sight of hundreds of flamingos and other birds as they, too, take flight from the cerulean blue waters of Sandwich Harbour. As you soar further northwards you can
enjoy the view of the Namib dunes slipping into the waves of the Atlantic, and Walvis Bay, Namibia’s main port city, before you touch down in the quaint coastal town of Swakopmund. From dune adventures, aquatic sports and tours to delicious dining, Swakopmund has so much to offer and is certainly worth more than just a stopover. From the cool and refreshing coast, hop back into your wings and head northward to the jewel in Namibia’s crown. World-renowned Etosha National Park is the most popular attraction by far. Rated among the top game parks in Africa, those with healthy population numbers and rare and endangered species alike, Etosha is a haven for wildlife. No visit to Namibia is complete without the sight of elephants, lions, cheetahs, rhinos or so many other incredible species strolling across the Great White Place (read more on page 12). Heading back south to the capital, just to change our wings, our next destination lies further afield. By now we have enjoyed the marvels of the desert from different vantages and been delighted by the wonder of Namibia’s biggest wildlife sanctuary. But stark and dry is not all that this magnificent corner of Africa has to offer. Two more destinations on our flight schedule lie in the northeastern reaches of the country. A wet wonderland stretches from the capital of the Kavango regions, Rundu, to Namibia’s far-eastern border town of Katima Mulilo. Between these two destinations are five prolific rivers and four national parks teeming with their own assortment of wild treasures. The Okavango, Kwando, Linyanti, Chobe and Zambezi rivers
are the lifeblood of the area, for both wildlife and people. The juxtaposition of lush vegetation is absolutely striking compared to the arid views you have been treated to thus far. Our very own version of the Okavango Delta and wild adventures can be found along this enigmatic “arm” of the nation. Large herds of elephant and buffalo and hundreds of different bird species, along with a plethora of other fauna and flora, call this region home. The rich cultures of the local people will also delight and surprise, and enrich a journey that by this point has most probably overwhelmed your senses. From here you can strap on your wings again and jaunt over into neighbouring Zimbabwe to the mighty Victoria Falls, one of the seven wonders of the world. Or head south to Maun in Botswana, where even more wild adventures await. Or head back to Windhoek for your last Namibian stop as your incredible journey winds down. An extra suitcase filled with memories to take with you to your far-off home. Namibian wings have connected you to the very best of Namibia… and beyond.
On 1 November 2021, Westair Aviation, the country’s largest aviation company, announced the rebranding of its scheduled passenger airline from FlyWestair to FlyNamibia.
Speaking at the event the CEO of Westair Aviation, Henri van Schalkwyk, said, “At Westair Aviation we are, have always been and will always aim to be The Standard in Aviation in Namibia. Now that role takes on a whole new dimension as we set our
sights even higher, dream even bigger and embark on a journey that will not only broaden our own horizons, but hopefully those of the country in which we live, operate, hope and dream. As Namibia’s largest aviation body, we accept our responsibility to grow and develop aviation in Namibia. We accept the responsibility to contribute toward the development of the Namibian economy in a post-COVID environment. How will we do this? By connecting Namibia to the world.”
With the launch of the new brand, Westair Aviation hopes to once again have a carrier in the Namibian and African skies that a nation can be proud of. An airline that can proudly fly Namibia’s colours far and wide. With an ethos based on the concept of Ubuntu, which is celebrated across the continent, FlyNamibia aims to be a beacon that connects Namibia as a community with the rest of the world, and helps bring the world to Namibia so that we can showcase how unique and truly special we are as a destination.
FlyNamibia’s schedule includes regional routes from Eros Airport in Windhoek to Ondangwa, Rundu and Katima Mulilo, as well as the international route between Hosea Kutako International Airport and Cape Town International. As of April 2022, FlyNamibia will also offer daily flights from Eros Airport in Windhoek to Sossusvlei, Swakopmund and Etosha under FlyNamibia Safaris, making your journey to and across this incredible land all the easier, and more beautiful. FlyNamibia is set to connect travellers to the very best of Namibia… and beyond. TNN
Flights can be booked through all major travel agencies, or directly via FlyNamibia’s 24/7 contact centre at +264 83 339 0011. Customers can also visit www.flynamibia.com.na for online bookings.
Katima Mulilo
Ondangwa
Ongava
Rundu
Swakopmund
Sesriem
Windhoek
Cape Town
From the desert to the mountains
As widely as the Namibian landscapes can differ when comparing the northeast of the country to the southwest, as quickly it can change over short distances. Such changes in scenery will not be as drastic, of course, but can nonetheless give one the feeling of being in a completely different place.
A common misconception is that Namibia is just one big sandy desert. Type “Namibia” into any search engine, and the first 50 images will predominantly be of the Namib sand dunes, Deadvlei and a gemsbok skeleton covered in sand. Yet there is so much more to the Namib Desert than just the beautiful dunes, and the vistas are ever-changing.
Ondili comprehends how changes in the landscape are not only incredible to behold but how they possess their own unique experiences waiting to be unlocked. It aims to give guests the opportunity to explore and appreciate the changing vistas and the geology, fauna and flora that come with it. While Desert Homestead Lodge offers guests the best of the Sossusvlei area, 320 km to its north (as the crow flies) Hohenstein Lodge provides its own special brand of magic on the foothills of the Erongo mountains.
Text & Photographs Le Roux van Schalkwyk
DESERT HOMESTEAD
Desert Homestead Lodge is situated on a stunning private nature reserve neighbouring the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Namib Sand Sea. The Namib Tsaris Nature Reserve currently covers 120 000 ha and apart from housing the lodge, is a way in which Ondili commits itself to the conservation of the area and the restoration of the biome.
The 20 thatched guest cottages channel the rustic cosiness of an equestrian farm overlooking a stunning grassy plain. Guests can indulge themselves in the panoramic views, crystal clear pool and excellent cuisine while planning the next day’s activities.
When staying at Desert Homestead, the sleep-out ride is an absolute must. There is a special intimacy about exploring a small but incredibly picturesque section of the Namib, the oldest desert in the world, from the back of a horse. Flowing with the rhythm of the sturdy animal beneath and watching the sun change into a scarlet ball as it dips into the dusty haze just above the horizon is really the only way to appreciate this arid Eden.
It is easy to get lost in one’s own thoughts, but for the experienced guide sharing interesting details about the fauna and flora that have adapted to thrive in this environment. It makes for a pleasant alternative to view wildlife such as gemsbok, springbok, some jackals and even a lone giraffe from the silence of your mount rather than from the back of a noisy game viewer. Somehow one feels more connected to nature. A more honest experience, in a way.
Arrival at the camp is just in time to enjoy a spectacular sunset over the red dunes of the Sossusvlei area. A moment to appreciate the extraordinary setting and reflect on the afternoon’s journey. The tented camp is a simple yet luxurious delight in the desert. Fine bush cuisine and a glass of red wine under a bright starry sky complete an unforgettable day.
Located only 30 km south-east of Sesriem, Desert Homestead is also the perfect base from which to explore Sossusvlei and its natural wonders, or go for an unforgettable balloon ride over the Namib.
HOHENSTEIN
Desert plains give way to the undulating foothills of Hohenstein.
Hohenstein is the highest peak on the western edge of the Erongo mountains, towering 2 319 m above sea level, with its granite slopes and pure size demanding the attention of all travellers driving past on the D1935 road. Named after this prominent peak and situated on its foothills, Ondili’s Hohenstein Lodge is the perfect base from which to explore the surroundings or just sit in awe of this imposing feature.
Hohenstein Lodge has created a space that allows guests to spend time according to individual preferences. Various hiking trails of different lengths allow the adventurous to explore the interesting landscape and the slopes of the mountain. Those who prefer a more relaxing, restful visit can spot game drinking at the waterhole in front of the lodge, go birding in the nearby hide or read a book next to the pool.
Hiking one of the trails that meander over small hills, through dry riverbeds and onto the slopes of the mountain is the best way to discover what the area has to offer. Guests can do it at their own pace according to their own fitness level.
For a more comprehensive experience, the Erongo Nature Excursion provides an intimate guided hiking tour. After a quick 20-minute drive, guests disembark at the starting point of the hike from where the experienced guide will lead them through the most interesting landscapes of the property. Thanks to an in-depth knowledge of the environment, the guide shares interesting stories and uses of the trees and will point out and teach you more about the wildlife and other living things. The spectacular rock formations found along the way, geological highlights of the Erongo mountains and the types of minerals mined here will also be explained during the excursion.
After a long day, a relaxing sundowner drive is the perfect way to wind down. Watch the colours of the scenery change to soft, inviting hues of amber, crimson and turquoise as the sun nears the horizon. Make sure to stop in time to watch the sun set behind Spitzkoppe in the west while enjoying a gin and tonic. This is without a doubt the most beautiful time of the day.
Hohenstein Lodge takes full advantage of the picturesque mountain view. With all rooms and the main building facing the mountain, there is ample opportunity for a morning view with a coffee, or for a sundowner spectacle sitting by the fire at the boma. Each of the spacious rooms offers a private shady terrace from where the scenery can be enjoyed. TNN
What’s in a name
Text & Photographs Pompie Burger
I think the only bird which has been named and featured in a movie is Jonathan Livingston Seagull. Bird on a wire by Leonard Cohen is the song most covered by other artists – about 400 different artists, I think. If this is because it is such a beautiful song or if it is about the bird I do not know. What is important is that I do not know what bird it was, but I think it has been sitting on the same wire for the last 50 years. The most famous book bird, To Kill a Mockingbird by Lee Harper, is already dead because it was killed in the book.
White-breasted Sunbird
Knowing your birds obviously means you must know their name. My daughter’s solution to the problem is calling them water chicken, dust chicken, fish chicken, bee chicken, sugar chicken etc. That’s the baseline. Next in line is knowing them according to your mother tongue. Going to the next level is calling them by their scientific name. If you are an old hand at birding (age and birding experience) you call them by their Roberts number, like number one I think is an Ostrich, but unfortunately this is days gone by.
Being a rock spider from Mpumalanga I am a bit biased as far as bird names are concerned, but to be quite honest the Afrikaans names for birds are much more appropriate and spot on than in any other language. Unfortunately I know only Afrikaans and English, although a colloquial
Ground Hornbill
White-backed Vulture
Ruppel's Parrot
Forked-tailed Drongo
German name for a vulture is Dreckvogel, which does sound quite suitable. As far as English names are concerned, one would expect nothing better because they are not good at many other things either (think rugby). I think they give bird naming a bad name. Imagine a name like Grey Turaco when you can call it Kwêvoël
Unfortunately there are a few names that got lost in translation. A very Afrikaans tour guide was asked what that bird (Ground Hornbill) is called in English. Knowing the Afrikaans name Bromvoël, he quickly translated it as Hummingbird. Obviously a brilliant translation, because brom means hum.
As one would expect, many of the pioneering ornithologists gave bird names that are not so applicable, but I suppose
your originality dries up after naming 400 different birds. Some even gave them their own names, like Mr. Ruppel who named two birds after himself – Ruppel’s Korhaan and Ruppel’s Parrot. He must have been quite important and famous. One rather noble name was given by Francois Levaillant, boss of Klaas, his Khoi servant. Levaillant gave the name Klaas’s Cuckoo to a very handsome little bird.
In a few cases the English got it right by using (stealing) the Afrikaans name, for instance the Hamerkop. Maybe they should have done it more often? Unfortunately, a few Afrikaans bird names are not so spot on either, like Katlagter (laughing cat??) for a Babbler. One other good option for them would be to look at the name sunbird Suikerbekkie (sugar-eating bird). Imagine calling owls moonbirds.
Racket-tailed Roller
Swainson's Spurfowl
Carmine Bee-eater
Apart from the few arrogant selfnamers, most birds have been called either according to their call (Bokmakierie, Hadeda, Hoopoe, Cuckoo, Diederick), bill (Shoebill, Saddlebill, Hornbill, Waxbill), colour (Carmine Bee-eater, Crimson-breasted Shrike, Tawny Eagle – although this is not so original, having about 10 brown eagles in Namibia), diet (Oystercatcher, Bee-eaters, Kingfishers, though somehow they did not get that one 100% correct, only two of the 10 kingfishers in Namibia eat fish), feet (Longclaw), tail (Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, Wire-tail Swallow, Racket-tailed Roller), display (Rollers), occupation (Weavers, Woodpeckers, Honeyguide), inappropriately (Thick-knee, when it is actually their ankles and not their knees that are thick), attachments (Wattled Crane, Wattled Starling), crown (Crowned Eagle, Long-crested Eagle), habitat (Marsh Owl, Forrest Buzzard, Marsh Harrier), size (Pygmy Falcon, Goliath Heron) or markings (usually on the chest: Rufous-breasted Sparrowhawk, White-bellied Bustard, Streaky-breasted Flufftail).
The saddest name for any Namibian bird must be the Larklike Bunting, but to give larks names is a rather challenging task because they all look alike. The cisticolas are another big challenge. No wonder they most often ended up being named by their call (Rattling, Singing and Tinkling).
Scientific names or their translation are mostly spot on. Like the Tambourine Dove, Turtur tympanistria: tympanistra is the Goddess Cybele, the personification of Mother Earth. She played the drum, which is pretty much the sound of the Tambourine Dove call. A rather unimaginative scientific name is Cinnyris (sunbirds), from the Ancient Greek name KIVVUPIC for an unknown small bird mentioned by Hesychius of Alexandria, obviously not a great bird lover.
The Dutch were apparently forced to get themselves a surname long ago. Thinking it was a rather exciting exercise they took the most hilarious surnames imaginable, like Hoenderpoepol. At least the result is a wide range of wonderful and more imaginative names than most of the bird names. If I will be forgiven, one cannot expect much better from a flock of bird watchers.
Indeed, what is in a name, especially in birds. I have never called a bird by its name and had it answering my call. Come to think of it, I seldom answered when my mother called Pompieee TNN
Striped Kingfisher
S W A SAFARIS NAMIBI A
Company
“Travel is at its best a solitary enterprise: to see, to examine, to assess, you have to be alone and unencumbered.”
- Paul Theroux
Three’s company? Bullshit, that kite will not fly for me. I think more than one is a crowd. But I realise that for most (normal?) people this is not what they have in mind when planning a trip (holiday/camping). Being a one/ two-person tripper, I think I can be quite selective if I must do that crowd-camping thing. If, in the process, I am stepping on some people’s bunions, some who have been on a trip with me, that is not the intention. Obviously each one of us has his own preferences as far as company is concerned. So if you have worked this one out, you can ignore most of the finer detail and concentrate on the bigger picture (crowd!).
Going alone (lone ranger) might for a lot of people sound like not the real McCoy. One can get a bit lonely. Depending on your state of mind at the time of doing the one man show, you should consider this option incredibly carefully. The other side of the coin is, as Danie said when he started doing the alone thing, that he began talking to himself and realised how interesting a guy he is.
I realise I should be very careful with the next option. Being married for over 30 years I might be pushing it when mentioning the wrong options and choices as far as selection is concerned. My brother gave me some advice way back (more than 30 years ago): If you want to marry your girlfriend, take her on a camping trip. I must confess he was much cleverer than I have ever been, but I am good with taking good advice. I can show the evidence (Helga). Suffice to say, the advice given by Ferdie is indispensable for anyone. The problem with it is that you might end up without a loved one for being too greedy and selective, or not having enough money to go on camping trips. If you want to do the two-thing and are not interested in a different sex partner, I am at a loss as far as advice is concerned. I suppose the hunters can be more helpful with this choice.
There is a wonderful story about a guy who advertised in the newspaper that he needed a hunting partner, the only prerequisites were that he must be a good cook, a good hunter, and an avid storyteller. His first caller was a guy that stuttered who said he could not cook and did not have a gun, but he just wanted to let him know that he would not be able to go with him. Some people might think it was me.
Maybe the crowd option is the one that should be planned very meticulously. Option one is family; needless to say that as a rule you know your family, so the choices are relatively obvious and easy to make. Taking Ferdie’s advice a bit further, this is a good opportunity to take your daughter/son’s lover with you – it might help them to sort out each other’s shortcomings with the benefit of parental guidance. Maybe you are lucky enough not to have any family members who like camping, which will sort out that problem.
Friends, yes, they always sound like the ideal partners in crime for your next camping trip. This is also the one choice that can make or break your holiday, or friendship. Remember, if you are not that lucky to have lots of holidays and money, this choice is probably more important than you might have thought. Keep in mind, they will be with you the next day and the next. That’s the reason I have so many friends, I do not take them with me when on holiday.
The following should be on your tick list when you make your final choice. Do you want to drink more than one bottle of brandy each night. Do you want to eat tinned beef for every meal, do you want to keep your friend and his wife apart to prevent a murder (what will you do with the body)? Or consider complaining about your choice as far as music is concerned.
Text Pompie Burger
Worst scenario, does your friend’s wife want to do her hair and face camouflage twice a day?
On the other hand, do you want the president of AA for company, complaining about your drinking problem? Maybe your company prefers a four-course meal twice a day or, even worse, does not wash for four weeks. In the end you must realise that such a trip might end your friendship forever.
The Burger option is wanting to sit for hours watching birds and taking pictures of yet another one, or waiting for Helga to take the ultimate picture of yet another exquisite flower or tree. Getting up before sunrise to get good, filtered coffee, or staying out on the road till well after sunset. Even worse, doing the off-road thing in an area which everyone (except Pompie) knows is off limits. That is not a good idea. Removing plants or bulbs for research or our garden, or do some pruning to get a better view, or a little bit closer to the object that needs to be filmed. You might even end up getting stuck in the sand/mud or being handcuffed and having bed and breakfast in the local jail, where there are no drinks, no 4-course meals, but where at least you will be able to take a shower twice a day. TNN
“They are sharing a drink they call loneliness, but it is better than drinking alone.”
- Billy Joel
