Travel News Namibia Winter 2015

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VOLUME 23 No 4 | WINTER 2015

THE THREE RIVERS

of north-eastern Namibia

NKASA RUPARA

THE ULTIMATE

Sossusvlei N$40.00 incl. VAT R40.00 incl. VAT

+

Go hiking in the NAUKLUFT

BIRDING

CELEBRATE

WORLD-CLASS

Windhoek Lager, Namibia’s finest export, has been made to the exacting standards of the Reinheitgebot since we started brewing Lager in 1920.

This commitment to brewing Lager the right way has won us eight consecutive international DLG gold medals.

Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18.

Drink Responsibly.

TJ

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VOLUME 23 No 4 | WINTER 2015

is published by Venture Publications in Windhoek, Namibia www.travelnewsnamibia.com 4 Herzinger Crescent, Klein Windhoek PO Box 21593, Windhoek, Namibia

TEXT CONTRIBUTORS Annabelle Venter, Ron Swilling, Pompie Burger, Elzanne Erasmus, Sanet van Zijl, Marita van Rooyen, Anja Denker, Ed Jenkins

TECHNICAL DIRECTOR Naude Muller

PHOTOGRAPHERS Paul van Schalkwyk, Ron Swilling, Pompie Burger, Elzanne Erasmus, Sanet van Zijl, Anja Denker, Marita van Rooyen, Annabelle Venter, Olwen Evans, Piers L'Estrange

PRODUCTION MANAGER Elzanne Erasmus elzanne@travelnewsnamibia.com

PRINTERS John Meinert Printing, Windhoek

PUBLIC RELATIONS Janine van der Merwe janine@travelnewsnamibia.com

Travel News Namibia is published quarterly, distributed worldwide and produced solely on Apple Macintosh equipment. The editorial content of TNN is contributed by freelance writers and journalists. It is the sole responsibility of the publisher and no part of the magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

MANAGING EDITOR Rièth van Schalkwyk

LAYOUT Viktoria Human CUSTOMER SERVICE Bonn Nortjé bonn@venture.com.na ONLINE EDITOR Sanet van Zijl info@travelnewsnamibia.com COVER PHOTOGRAPH Annabelle Venter

... a journey filled with unforgettable experiences, new adventures into the uncharted African bush, a journey of friendship and fond memories that will linger for many years to come... that is what you can expect when voyaging with Etosha Heights Tourism.

www.tala.com.na Available at Namcrafts in Independence Avenue, Tel +264 (0)61 250342 For fine art prints & image library contact: elmarie@mac.com.na, Cell +264 (0)81 277 3334

3 Times Daily Windhoek

Johannesburg

Three (3) flights per day between Johannesburg and Windhoek.

All flights are operated with an Airbus A319.

Business class 2 x 32kg luggage each for passenger.

Economy class 2 x 23kg luggage for each passenger.

call.centre@airnamibia.aero Call Centre: +264 61 299 6111 Book Online: www.airnamibia.com

Johannesburg Reservations & Ticketing Tel +27 11 012-9460/1 Email jnb.res@airnamibia.aero

Get Your Reward$. Join Now.

Johannesburg airport Tel +27 11 978-5055

ABOUT VENTURE

VENTURE PUBLICATIONS Venture Publications is the pioneer of Namibia tourism promotion. We are the leader in spreading the tourism word around the world. We distribute accurate, credible, up-to-date and regular tourism-related information on paper, in social media, on the World Wide Web, and on mobile apps.

We have reached hundreds of thousands over more than two decades. Be part of our community and let’s do it together.

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Travel News Namibia is published in seven different editions per year. These include four English-language editions, one German, one Italian and one French annually.

Travel News Namibia is for sale in Namibia and South Africa.

VOLUME 23 No 4 | WINTER 2015

THE THREE RIVERS

of north-eastern Namibia

NKASA RUPARA

THE ULTIMATE

BIRDING

Sossusvlei N$40.00 incl. VAT R40.00 incl. VAT

NEW FROM VENTURE PUBLICATIONS

hiking in the + Go NAUKLUFT 2015

and the Environment in Namibia

NAMIBIA HOLIDAY & TRAVEL The 200-plus-page Namibia Holiday & Travel tourism directory is published in print and online to promote Namibia as a tourist destination offering an abundance of national parks, magnificent wildlife and spectacular scenery.

HUNTINAMIBIA This annual magazine has an English edition for distribution in the USA and a German edition for distribution in German-speaking European countries. It consists of a minimum of 60 pages and is available as a printed magazine and online. www.huntnamibia.com.na

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GET TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA ON YOUR MOBILE Download our app and keep up to date with what’s news in Namibia.

VENTURE ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Travel News Namibia

14

YEARS

This special edition of Conservation and the Environment in Namibia celebrates 14 years of the Nedbank Go Green Fund. In co-operation with the Namibia Nature Foundation, the magazine brings together an abundance of Go Greenfunded projects and their success stories, each a true reflection of the diversity of environmental issues in the country and the people who dedicate their lives to the concerns.

@travelnewsnamib

EDITOR’S LETTER A NAMIBIAN WINTER FILLED WITH SUNSHINE AND CLEAR BLUE SKIES

I

must be the luckiest travel magazine editor in Africa. While I sip a Windhoek Lager on the banks of the Orange River, watching a pink sunset and wishing I could get a canoe through the rapids in the morning, my team is racing against time to get the winter edition of Travel News Namibia ready for print. For the first time in 20 years I meet Carlos Peres on his home turf. Felix Unite is one of the few tourism enterprises older than Venture Publications and was also the first river adventure operator in Namibia. One of the early adventure stories that we published in Travel News Namibia shortly after independence was about Carlos and his canoes on the Orange. He has not lost any of his passion for this piece of riverbank or for Namibia's tourism potential.

WINTER

IN NAMIBIA

Travelling south on the B1 has always been one of my secret pleasures. It is probably the association that as a student the road brought me home to Namibia and away from the cold, wet, grey Cape winter. This time, I am driving south and the first treat is always the railway bridge 30 kilometres south of Windhoek.

It frames a perfect landscape picture, which changes with the seasons. As you get closer to Rehoboth, the camel thorn trees are either full of bright yellow blooms, or in May, covered with silvery grey pods. I never understand why travellers complain about the monotony of this route. Just look left and right.

We took countless group photos at the equator in Uganda and Tanzania but at our Tropic of Capricorn sign south or Rehoboth, cars just sped past. Maybe we should figure out a proper backdrop for a photo opportunity that would entice travellers to stop.

It is great fun to look out for the rugs on the fences along the road.

The Nama people who live in the south make them from springbok hides. Even if you don’t see people around, do stop. Before you are out of your car, the salesman will be there to assist you.

Keetmanshoop will not be far once you notice the silhouette of the Brukkaros Mountain to the west. Every time I drive past I wonder what it looks like inside and then promise myself that one day I will stop at the Brukkaros community campsite and hike up the mountain to have a look.

In the meantime, we have many interesting articles to entertain you with, such as a photo essay with stunning images of animals in Etosha, photographed over many years by one of Namibia’s few female wildlife photographers, Anja Denker. Elzanne’s story on the spruced-up camping facilities in Namib-Naukluft Park is intended especially for those hikers who have “done” the Fish and are looking for another challenge. Enjoy Ed Jenkins’ piece on the history of the Strand Hotel in Swakop where the new hotel is soon to open on the same site where the original one was built.

Winter in Namibia holds the promise of sunshine and clear blue skies, but don’t be fooled. Ours is a desert country, so even though the day temperatures are high, the nights can be freezing cold.

Especially if you camp under the stars.

Rièth van Schalkwyk

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA WINTER 2015

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CONTENTS WINTER 2015 8 WHAT’S NEW(S)? New developments in the industry 13 FAST FACTS All you need to know about Namibia

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14 A TRIO OF RIVERS Namibia's northeast 22 GENERATION WANDERLUST goes to Sossusvlei 28 SOLAR ENERGY SunCycles 32 TNN SHOPPING Warm winter comforts 36 BIRDING Nkasa Rupara National Park 42 HIKER'S HEAVEN in the Naukluft 46 NAMIBIA EXCLUSIVE A luxury Namibian Reverie 50 PHOTOGRAPHIC FEATURE Anja Denker 56 TNN GOES MOUNTAIN BIKING with Cymot 62 FISH RIVER CANYON A charming journey

CONTENTS

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32 68 PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS A dream destination 76 WEATHER Winter at a glance 78 STRAND HOTEL The legacy continues

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Walvis Bay is the second largest centre of economic activity in Namibia. This is why the decision was made to offer direct flights to and from the major business hubs in South Africa. Over the last 10 years Walvis Bay diversified its economic activities and branched out into mining, tourism and retail.

Upgrading of Walvis Bay airport continues according to a development plan which was implemented at airports all over Namibia in order to align them with international standards. The aircraft serving the new routes will be the Embraer ERJ 135 Regional Jet. It features an economy class cabin with 37 seats in a three abreast (2+1) seating configuration, which means that 66% are window seats.

The routes are flown with cabin crew.

NEW DIRECT FLIGHTS

from Walvis Bay

Air Namibia’s record for on-time departures has increased to over 95% and the airline has also been rated consistently in the top 10 (out of 410) for on-time arrival.

Air Namibia and the Municipality of Walvis Bay have signed a Strategic Business Alliance agreement to launch direct return flights from Walvis Bay to Johannesburg and from Walvis Bay to Cape Town. The agreement makes provision for both Air Namibia and the Municipality of Walvis Bay to advance their interests.

For more information visit www.airnamibia.com.

WHAT’S NEW(S)?

Compiled by Sanet van Zijl

CCF opens

NEW VISITOR CENTRE After a devastating fire left the CCF Visitor Centre - located 44 km east of Otjiwarongo, at the foot of the Waterberg Plateau - in ashy ruins, Dr. Laurie Marker and her team set out to rebuild the foundations. Out of the ashes emerged a new modern facility unlike any the project had seen before. The CCF hosted a preview of its new centre in March this year. The new building, constructed with materials such as cement board and metal, will be a lot less prone to fires than its predecessor that was struck by lightning in October 2013.

CCF’s new and improved Visitor Centre will enhance the overall experience of tourists, school groups and international guests. The centre houses a new Cheetah Café, sponsored by the Pupkewitz Foundation, with an outdoor veranda, a new Cheetah Gift Shop and new main visitor reception area. The Visitor Centre also includes the First National Bank Educational Classrooms and Conference Centre, and soon will be the home of CCF’s genetics laboratory, enabling visitors to see the research being done to help save the cheetah for future generations. The laboratory is the only field conservation research site of its kind in Africa and scientists working in the lab are studying not only the cheetah, but also assist other conservation projects centred around lion, rhino, cape buffalo and brown hyena.

CCF’s Research and Education Centre is open to the public every day, except Christmas Day, from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.

For more information visit www.cheetah.org.

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WHAT’S NEW(S)?

CLEAN ENERGY generated in Namibia Namibia generally has one season year round – Summer. This means plenty of sunshine all day. What better way to take advantage of the weather for the good of the planet than to harness it to generate solar power?

N$120 million have been invested into the Omburu Solar Energy Plant outside of Omaruru. During the construction of this massive investment 1000 solar energy modules were installed daily. The plant now comprises 33 000 solar panels.

On 13 May former President Sam Nujoma officially inaugurated Omburu. The plant has a capacity of 4.5 MW and will generate about 13.5 million kWh per year. The plant covers a total area of 16 hectares and it was built in only four months. The system has an expected lifespan of 25 years.

By investing in this plant more permanent job opportunities have been generated. Namibia has taken a large step to turning into a role model in sustainable development and it ensures that the country may become independent from importing electricity from other countries.

A French company, Innosun, was behind the development of Omburu. They also own the independent energy provider – Omburu Energy. This is the first large-scale photovoltaic energy development park in Namibia.

The renewable energy plant will contribute more than 1% to the country’s total energy needs and it will produce Carbon Dioxidefree electricity. The energy that is generated by the solar panels is sent to the Omburu transmission-substation along 1.2 kilometres of power lines. From there it is sold to NamPower.

FAST FACTS • • • •

•

Ruacana Hydro Power Station on the Kunene River

Namibia generates 249 MW of hydro-electricity at the Ruacana Hydro Power Station on the Kunene River.

Currently, Namibia is exporting about 200 MW of electricity to South Africa.

Roughly 60% of Namibia's power is imported from neighbouring countries.

The construction of the largest solar plant in Africa on Namibian soil is currently underway.

This solar plant is an on-grid rooftop solar plant which will provide 1.1 MW. The Project resulted from a partnership between Namibian Breweries and Olthaver & List Energy.

Last year NamPower, Namibia's national energy provider, installed 438 off-grid rooftop solar panels on the NamPower Control building in an effort to show the public that they, too, are dedicated to sustainable use of electricity.

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA WINTER 2015

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WOLWEDANS scores Five Flower rating Wolwedans Dunes Lodge and Base Camp scored the highest possible rating when Eco Awards Namibia recently assessed their eco-friendly management principles. A symbol with up to five desert flowers is awarded for responsible tourism, which Eco Awards defines as “development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their needs and aspirations”.

The programme promotes the selective and careful use of resources, reducing waste materials, recycling and reusing. In the process an establishment can in fact improve its profitability, often with very little additional expenditure.

Wolwedans scored 92% and received the highest accolade: a Five Flower rating.

All camps at Wolwedans are designed to minimize environmental impact by exploring innovative building techniques and utilizing sustainable technologies.

The Wolwedans camps are situated in the pristine natural environment of the NamibRand Nature Reserve, one of southern Africa’s largest private nature reserves. Wolwedans strives to safeguard the integrity of the Pro-Namib ecosystem as part of the global ecosphere and ensures that its health and productivity is managed in an ecologically sustainable manner.

The main objective is the conservation of the NamibRand Nature Reserve on a self-sustainable basis. Each lodge or operation on the nature reserve is limited to 20 beds. The strict code of ethics ensures that this wilderness paradise accommodates only a limited number of guests at a time. Wolwedans is committed to a ratio of 1 bed to 1000 hectares. This means that as a guest at Wolwedans you have about two million square metres of pure wilderness to yourself - a nature refuge free of tour buses and overland trucks.

For more information visit www.wolwedans.com.

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The Eco Awards Namibia programme was launched in 2004 to promote sustainable tourism practices. Any accommodation establishment in Namibia can apply for the Desert Flower emblem, which is awarded to establishments that work successfully according to sustainability principles.

Establishments are awarded flowers according to their level of ‘greenness’, with five flowers being the highest achievement. More information is available at www.ecoawards-nambia.org.

WHAT’S NEW(S)?

TOSCO:

Tourism supporting Conservation “Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world - indeed it’s the only thing that ever has.” – Margaret Mead This is exactly what TOSCO is – a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens who are changing the world. A few years ago a group of tourism operators got together after a pride of lions was poisoned in north-western Namibia. They realized that lions were essential for the biodiversity of the environment and a major drawcard for tourism. Therefore they decided to contribute to the conservation of lions.

The TOSCO Trust was founded in 2012 to generate funds to support rural people in their efforts to safeguard the natural resources used by tourism, especially wildlife, on Namibia’s communal lands. The funds raised by the Trust are also used to provide satellite collars which enable local scientists to track the movements of lions and share their positions with the local communities, and in turn anticipate humanpredator conflicts.

TOSCO’s mission is to help to ensure that visiting Namibia’s wild places is as enjoyable in the future as it is now. Therefore, TOSCO also engages in promoting responsible tourism in Namibia. Whether we are an individual traveller or a tourism professional, we all have an active interest in Namibia’s people, places and wildlife.

TOSCO maintains that tourists have a responsibility towards the places and people they visit. The organisation endeavours to minimize negative and maximize positive impact, especially by creating social and economic benefits for local communities as well as caring for and respecting local cultures and protecting biodiversity. TOSCO also strives to provide a communication platform for the stakeholders, in particular the tourism industry, conservation organizations and local people, and to increase awareness for conservation issues and responsible tourism in Namibia.

For more information visit www.tosco.org.

TOSCO supports organizations such as Desert Lion Conservation and Save the Rhino Trust to procure funding for tracking collars and other essentials.

NAMIBIA STEALS HEARTS at WTM Africa Travel News Namibia joined the Namibia Tourism Board (NTB) stand at this year’s World Travel Market - Africa as travel correspondent and to assist with the promotion of Namibia as an amazing African destination. NTB hosted over 20 Namibian companies who got the chance to meet with buyers and tourism promoters from over 45 countries. Travel professionals and tourism companies from across the globe were able to see and experience once again the dynamic and unrestricted tourism opportunities Namibia has to offer.

The NTB stand was also awarded the overall "Best Stand for Business" distinction at the expo, winning the top prize in a field of more than 570 exhibitors from across the world. With a beautiful stand, featuring sand-coloured arches designed to mimic the dunes of the Namib Desert, fantastic photographs showcasing Namibia’s most prized landscapes and attractions, and shelves full of copies of Travel News Namibia and Namibia Holiday & Travel, it was once again obvious that it is not too hard to promote a country as unique and wonderful as Namibia.

Follow Travel News Namibia on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, for updates on tourism and trade shows attended by Namibians.

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA WINTER 2015

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swakara

Photo courtesy of: Paul van Schalkwyk

FAST FACTS ON NAMIBIA GENERAL

Surface area: 824,268 km2 Capital: Windhoek Independence: 21 March 1990 Current president: Hage Geingob Multiparty Parliament Democratic Constitution Division of power between executive, legislature and judiciary Secular state—freedom of religion (90% Christian) Freedom of the press/media

ENVIRONMENT

Nature reserves: 15% of surface area Highest mountain: Brandberg Other prominent mountains: Spitzkoppe, Moltkeblick, Gamsberg Perennial rivers: Orange, Kunene, Okavango, Zambezi and Kwando/ Linyanti/Chobe Ephemeral rivers: Numerous, including Fish, Kuiseb, Swakop and Ugab

FLORA

14 vegetation zones 120 species of trees 200 endemic plant species 100 plus species of lichen Living fossil plant: Welwitschia mirabilis

ECONOMY

Main sectors: Mining, fishing, tourism & agriculture Biggest employer: Agriculture (46%) Fastest-growing sector: Tourism Mining: Diamonds, uranium, copper, lead, zinc, magnesium, cadmium, arsenic, pyrites, silver, gold, lithium minerals, dimension stones (granite, marble, blue sodalite) and many semiprecious stones

PHYSICAL INFRASTRUCTURE

Roads: 5,450 km tarred, 37,000 km gravel Harbours: Walvis Bay, Lüderitz Main airports: Hosea Kutako International Airport, Eros Airport, 46 airstrips Rail network: 2,382 km narrow gauge 6.2 telephone lines per 100 inhabitants Direct-dialling facilities to 221 countries Mobile communication system: GSM agreements with 117 countries/255 networks Postal service: affiliated to the Universal Postal Union

SOCIAL INFRASTRUCTURE

One medical doctor per 3,650 people Two privately run hospitals in Windhoek with intensive-care units Medical practitioners (world standard) 24-hour medical emergency services

POPULATION

2.1 million Density: 2.2 per km2 240 000 inhabitants in Windhoek (15% of total) Official language: English 13 regions, 13 ethnic cultures 16 languages and dialects Adult literacy rate: 85% Population growth rate: 2.6% Schools: 1,450

FAUNA

Big game: Elephant, lion, rhino, buffalo, cheetah, leopard, giraffe 20 antelope species 240 mammal species (14 endemic) 250 reptile species 50 frog species 676 bird species Endemic birds including Herero Chat, Rockrunner, Damara Tern, Monteiro’s Hornbill

FOREIGN REPRESENTATION

More than 50 countries have Namibian consular or embassy representation in Windhoek.

For information, contact the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Information and Broadcasting—Tel (+264 61) 282 9111

TAX AND CUSTOMS

All goods and services are priced to include value-added tax of 15%. Visitors may reclaim VAT. Enquiries: Ministry of Finance— Tel (+264 61) 23 0773 in Windhoek

MONEY MATTERS

Currency: The Namibia Dollar (N$) is fixed to and equals the SA Rand. The South African Rand is also legal tender.

Traveller’s cheques, foreign currency, International Visa, Master Card, American Express and Diners Club credit cards are accepted

DRINKING WATER

Most tap water is purified and safe to drink.

Visitors should exercise caution in rural areas

TRANSPORT

Public transport is NOT available to all tourist destinations in Namibia.

There are bus services from Windhoek to Cape Town/Johannesburg/Vic Falls/ Swakopmund. Namibia’s main railway line runs from the South African border, connecting Windhoek to Swakopmund in the west and Tsumeb in the north.

There is an extensive network of international and regional flights from Windhoek. Domestic charters to all destinations.

www.namibiatourism.com.na

A TRIO OF RIVERS

Namibia’s largest wetland reveals a new gem

Text Annabelle Venter Main photograph Paul van Schalkwyk

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Annabelle Venter

NORTHEAST NAMIBIA

Malachite Kingfisher (Alcedo cristata)

I

t’s been 20 years since we first arrived at the Mamili National Park just as the sun was setting. While waiting at the entrance gate for the warden, we wondered what lay inside and marvelled at a blood red sun silhouetting the magnificent trees just beyond the fence. The scene held all the promise and excitement of an African night unfolding.

The spell was broken momentarily by the sound of a bicycle approaching over the rough track and in a short while the warden had cheerily waved us on our way, into unexplored territory with vague instructions to choose a spot for the night ourselves. Yes, he said, there are plenty of lions

around... and elephants.

Night was falling quickly. A short distance into the park, Two Tree Island beckoned us, elevated enough to spot unwelcome four-footed guests and with just enough room for the two vehicles. No sooner had we offloaded the chairs than the welcoming committee struck up its greeting.

Booming, roaring and claiming the night, lions had us appreciate our insignificance in their world. Three groups of them surrounded us. Our Maglite helped to establish their positions by picking out twinkling eyes, and we settled in for a restless and unforgettable night.

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Mamili National Park, now called Nkasa Rupara National Park, lies at the southern tip of the ‘bulge’ in the Zambezi region of north-eastern Namibia. The Kwando River flows southwards past the western half of the reserve before taking a sharp U-turn to the northeast again. Roughly at the bend, it becomes the Linyanti River, which is more popularly accessed via Kings Pool camp on its Botswana side.

The Kwando is one of the three big waterways that form borders in the northeast of Namibia and it is certainly one of the most interesting, diverse and beautiful of the river systems. The big sisters to the Kwando are the better-known Okavango River further west, and the mighty Zambezi to the east.

Children from the local community in traditional dress

To set the record straight, if you are - like me - a bit confused as to the number of rivers in the Zambezi region, keep in mind that this region is sometimes also referred to as ‘Four Rivers’ by tour operators and other groups! They appear to omit the Linyanti – which makes for an even more confusing scenario!

How does all this water end up in such an otherwise dry country? The three big rivers have their origins in Angola or Zambia north of Namibia. The Okavango joins the Cuito in Angola just before they enter Namibia as the Okavango.

The Kwando also rises in Angola and the Zambezi originates in Zambia. Together, their catchment areas are the size of Namibia!

Photos courtesy of Nkasa Lupala Tented Lodge

Room with a view

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Rivers support an abundance of life and in the northeast you can expect to find a very different environment to anywhere else in our country. A great diversity of plant, animal and bird life can be spotted here, with species found nowhere else in Namibia. Travelling north from Windhoek your first meeting

Migrating elephants make their way past the lodge on a regular basis

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NORTHEAST NAMIBIA

will be with the Okavango River. Driving northwards through the town of Rundu brings you to the riverbank. From here you could continue on the old main road which is gravel and sandy in places, stopping along the way to enjoy the various camps on the riverbank, or you could just take the tar road to speed up the eastbound journey if your destination is further on.

At Divundu you will encounter the Okavango again and here you are faced with choices – follow the river southeast until it exits Namibia at Mohembo, or cross it and continue to the next big river. The Okavango is host to a number of beautiful places to while away some time. The jewel in its crown is the Mahango Game Reserve where you will find buffalo, hippos and crocodiles, sable and roan antelope, to name but a few.

Look out for elephants feeding near the river and spend time marvelling at the baobab trees for which the park is famous.

The riverside route in this park is best done early morning and late afternoon. The bush drive is long, hot and sandy and not as rewarding as the river route.

Pushing on eastwards you will pass through the Mukwe area, characterized by Kalahari woodlands, and after about 240 km emerge at the Kwando River and the start of the Zambezi region. We will explore this area in more detail in a minute, but let’s first continue east to get a feel of how the land lies.

Crossing the Kwando River and its floodplains will take you east to the region’s administrative capital, Katima Mulilo. Here you will find our third main river, the Zambezi, which eventually flings itself over the Victoria Falls about 210 km further east. At

Katima the river is wide and steady and the region is well-loved by fishermen and birders alike for the amazing diversity to be found here. Another 30 km east, the legendary Chobe River joins the Zambezi after an interesting route and name-changing experience. But let’s return to the extraordinary wetlands at the Kwando now.

Once you arrive at the Kongola checkpoint after traversing the Mukwe area, you will find yourself in the middle of the Kwando River’s floodplains. Angola is just a few kilometres to the north, and this spot is roughly in the centre of the Kaza Conservation Area which spans five countries. A few kilometres further eastwards, as you turn south onto the C49 to explore the Kwando River, you will be entering a unique part of Namibia and an old favourite of mine. Travelling this rough road in the past was an adventure in itself, but the tarring recently reached completion and makes driving to this destination easier than ever. There are several wonderful places to spend time along this route but let’s look at the national parks in the area.

Mudumu National Park lies about halfway between Kongola and Sangwali, the southern-most village on this route. Mudumu is home to buffalos, wild dogs, lions, leopards, hyenas, elephants, sable and roan antelopes, to mention just a few. But it offers so much more and has an unfenced campsite on the river where you need to be self-sufficient. Get your permit from MET, at Sisuwe or Nakatwa, to experience this special park at ground level. It’s a great place to immerse yourself in wild Africa.

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Mamili was proclaimed a national park in March 1990, just before Namibia’s independence, and recently its name was changed to Nkasa Rupara National Park (NP). It is home to Namibia’s largest wetland and therefore in a class of its own when it comes to biodiversity in our arid country. Over the years the water levels have fluctuated and Simone recalls that when he first visited early in 2010, the area was flooded and inaccessible. Returning a couple of months later he was able to enter the park for the first time via a new bridge built by MET. Eighteen months later, on the 27th of July 2011, the new lodge owned jointly by Simone, his two brothers and their father, welcomed its first visitors. The lodge overlooks the floodplain close to where the Kwando River becomes the Linyanti River system.

Nkasa Lupala Tented Lodge is a successful joint venture between the private investors and the nearby Wuparo Conservancy and practises strict eco-tourism principles, ‘uniting conservation, communities and sustainable travel’. This includes monthly financial commitments to the conservancy, sourcing 95% of the employees from the local community and to meet the lodge’s daily electricity needs entirely with solar power. The aim is to offer an eco-friendly holiday experience with minimal impact on the fragile environment, focussing on energy, waste, water and wildlife management. Simone tells me that in keeping with their vision, the Ministry of Environment and Tourism (MET) closed the park to campers about two years ago in an effort to protect the area. Much of the park is still under water, especially in the wet season, but many of the old tracks remain visible. The local community at Sangwali set up a campsite outside the park and you can still enter Nkasa Rupara for a self-drive day visit.

Paul van Schalkwyk

Further ‘down the road’, 75 km south of Kongola, our destination is Nkasa Lupala Tented Lodge, bordering the Mamili area which I visited all those years ago. I recently chatted to one of the owners, Simone Micheletti, to find out what has changed in the last twenty years.

Human-wildlife conflict is a problem as it is anywhere else where people live in close contact with nature. The two resident lion prides within Nkasa Rupara occasionally wander outside the park and are in danger of being killed if they prey on cattle.

Panthera and the Kwando Carnivore Project, under the direction of Paul and Lisa Funston respectively, are alleviating the problem by helping the local communities to design and build stronger kraals to protect their livestock at night, appointing lion guardians to report movements of predators in the inhabited areas outside the park and generally educating local communities. Simone and his team at Nkasa assist Paul and Lisa by providing information and helping out in practical ways.

Nkasa Lupala Tented Lodge is run on strict eco-tourism principles

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NORTHEAST NAMIBIA

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Simone is keen to tell me about the lodge’s newest project which is about to be unveiled this winter. The owners have built a new self-catering establishment, called the Jackalberry Tented Camp, to the southeast of the original camp, this time much nearer to the main river itself, in the Linyanti marsh. This small piece of paradise will have just 4 tents which will be ready for visitors in July this year. Guests will be able to drive themselves to the camp and, having paid the park fees, will be free to explore the accessible areas of the park. Simone adds that they are planning to build three bird hides where visitors can simply sit and watch the unique life of the wetlands unfold around them. This camp will follow the principles of ecotourism mentioned previously and facilitate controlled access to an area of great environmental importance in Namibia.

Simone also envisages using Jackalberry Tented Camp for overflow from the main lodge during the high season in winter

bezi

Chobe Ngoma

Victoria Falls Kasane

and spring. Of course this is a very rewarding time for game viewing as large herds of migrating elephants feed in the park from March to October. In the summer months they move into Botswana, but then again it’s time for summer’s migrating birds to wow the visitors. Rare species of wetland antelope can be seen around the lodge, such as sitatunga, red lechwe and reedbuck. During the first week in August the local Mayeyi tribe hosts a two-day cultural festival at Sangwali with their Bayeyi clansmen who visit from across the river in Botswana. There is much singing and dancing and the community is happy to welcome visitors to enjoy the festival with them.

Nkasa Rupara National Park certainly has a lot to offer the eco-conscious visitor and is the diamond in the crown for the Kwando-Linyanti stretch of our ‘quartet of rivers’. I hope to renew my acquaintance with this magical area soon. TNN

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www.scenic-air.com

SAND, SWIMMING HOLES and the magnitude of the moment Text and Photographs Elzanne Erasmus

GENERATION WANDERLUST

In the autumn issue of TNN, with our trip to Mahango Game Park, we were able to establish that travelling through wonderful Namibia is an adventure open to the youth, too. The Generation Wanderlust epidemic is well underway and I note this with childlike delight when I see young guys and girls at the Solitaire petrol stop f illing their dust-covered Toyota Corollas, or a young couple from somewhere far away changing a tyre of their rented self-drive vehicle, probably their f irst solo tyre change. As we know, Namibia isn’t famous for its successful AA enterprise like some European countries are.

LEFT A camel thorn tree with a sociable weaver nest in front of a classic Namibian sunset MIDDLE Swimming in the spring water pools at Hauchabfontein RIGHT Inspecting a fairy circle from up close

It’s not just a foreigner here and there who has trouble judging our deceivingly well-managed dust roads. At least this was the thought that crossed my mind as I watched poor Sean and Abe change a punctured wheel of my making. We were only 10 minutes away from our first campsite on a trip to Sossusvlei when I misjudged a seemingly shallow ditch in the road and sent the bakkie bouncing, followed soon after by the telltale noise of rubber no longer bound in its all too necessary shape… The guys changed the tyre as Karin and I stood by, dutifully handing them the odd wrench and jack when needed.

After shaking the dust off their clothes and listening to my rambling excuses about how no-one could possibly have seen the ditch and how it really wasn’t only my fault, the teasing began and we set off for the last 20 kilometres to Little Sossus Camp - where we discovered a slow-puncture in another tyre.

expected any rain) and spent the night snoring into the open desert air. Our campsite even had its very own waterhole, no further than 20 metres from our fire pit.

Not the best start to a trip, but luckily we were in for quite a magnificent experience, the magnitude of which we had not expected or even registered at the time.

About 20 minutes’ drive from Little Sossus Campsite, hidden between rocky hills, a small canyon-like swimming hole resides on the farm Hauchabfontein. The beautiful clear spring water of this desert oasis is a wonderful respite from the heat. We decided we’d spend a few minutes cooling off before heading back to camp. We dived in and the planned “quick dip” turned into a few hours of lazing in the water, gin and tonics in hand, making friends with a few tourists from Australia, and putting my new GoPro and its waterproof housing to the test as we jumped from a high rock into the cold clear water. Later that afternoon, back at Little Sossus, we set off on a self-drive. We saw grazing gemsbok, inspected the mystical fairy circles, for which the area is so famous, from up-close and watched an amazing Namibian sun descend behind a camel thorn tree and disappear over the horizon.

SUNSETS & CAMEL THORNS

MORE THAN WORDS

Setting up camp at Little Sossus Camp is almost too easy.

Every campsite comes equipped with a roof, three walls, two bathrooms (complete with hot water) and a kitchen area with a sink and electrical sockets. We didn’t even bother to pitch actual tents, but rather opted for setting up our stretchers and mattresses underneath the ready-built canopy (not that we

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You can use many eloquent words to try and describe the pure wonder and grandeur of Sossusvlei. You can write novels about the colours, textures, the loneliness that you find in this eternity of sand and dust and gigantic skies. You can try to capture the beauty on film but nothing will compare to reality.

Maybe Sossusvlei doesn’t exist. Maybe it's not reality. Maybe

LEFT A dust storm envelopes red dunes MIDDLE Oryx are adapted to dry desert environments RIGHT The view of Dead Vlei from the top of Big Daddy Sossusvlei is a myth, a dream shared by strangers and friends, a fairytale to tell those who haven’t experienced the dream. Maybe us dreamers will try to sing its praises (literally) or write endless lines of poetry on the subject. Maybe we’ll submit you to hours of retelling tall tales about even taller mountains of sand, repeating the lines “You have to see it to believe it” or “You probably had to be there”, just to get you to come within an inch of understanding the magnitude of the moment we experienced. That’s the closest you’ll ever come to grasping the reality of this one-of-a-kind place (or parallel universe), because words will never suffice.

We gained this titbit of knowledge when we visited Sossusvlei the next morning. After paying the small entry fee at Sesriem (N$10 for Namibians, N$30 for SADC residents and N$40 for foreigners) we made our way into the park. Gates are open between sunrise and sunset. The first 60 km of the road between Sesriem and Sossusvlei are tarred but the last 5 km are accessible by 4x4 only.

There are shuttle services available for those who don’t want to walk those last 5 km, or those not brave or well-versed enough to take on the thick sand of the off-road terrain. When you finally reach the end of the road, however, it is all too clear to see why Sossusvlei is one of Namibia’s most popular tourist attractions, second only to Etosha National Park. Don’t be misled, though: it’s an equally big attraction for locals. Many Namibians make the trek to Sossusvlei on a regular basis. Some, like myself, even consider it a sort of pilgrimage to a desert landscape Mecca. Once there you have two options: a) easy or b) not so easy.

MUST-DO'S AND SEES: • •

• • • •

Take on Dune 45 or Big Daddy and admire the beauty of Sossusvlei from a higher vantage point Take a short hike through Sesriem Canyon (it’s only about a kilometre long) and be amazed by the geological marvels inside Go swimming at the spring-fed pools at Hauchabfontein, which have water all year round Eat apple crumble pie at the famous Moose McGregor Bakery in Solitaire Take a sunset petrified dune drive at Gondwana’s Namib Desert Lodge For the less “Generation Wanderlust” and the more “I have a platinum VISA card”: go on a hot air balloon ride over the dunes at sunrise, or go on a fly-in safari with any of the private air charter companies to see the dunes from another spectacular vantage point

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The easy option is to head up a footpath in the sand, over a small dune and straight into Dead Vlei, a desiccated white pan dotted with the skeletons of petrified camel thorn trees. The second option is not for the faint of heart, or weak of knee, but is my highest recommendation by far! Big Daddy is presumed to be one of the highest dunes in Sossusvlei, and the world for that matter. At approximately 325 metres high, it’s no easy climb, but if you’ve arrived early enough (around 6 am is a good time), had a proper breakfast and have a keen adventurous spirit you should definitely give it a go, which is exactly what us four Wanderlusters decided to do…

LET’S BE ADVENTURERS

We were a quarter of the way up when I realized that this wasn’t a hill… it was Everest, albeit a very dry and hot one. The previous night’s red wine wasn’t helping much either. But the plan was set and the gleaming Namibian sun was creeping ever closer to the horizon, bringing along with it what was sure to be another day of stinging hot rays and 40°C desert temperatures.

So we pushed forward, trying to outrun the sun and heat and reach the summit with skin as close as possible to its current hue, and blood at a safe non-boiling temperature.

The view from the top was unreal, like something that should have been in a Gustav Klimt painting with its mosaic of colours and textures and the unexplainable romantic aura.

From the top of Big Daddy you can fool yourself into believing that the edge of the horizon and the curve of the earth is visible. As far as the eye can see there are sienna dunes dotted with white pans under a clear, unbelievably blue sky.

We sat up there, along with a few other dune explorers, and stared at the spectacular star-shaped dunes. The view aside, the most fun we had that day was definitely the run down. As you peer down the side of the dune face the edge of the white clay

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FUN FACTS ABOUT SOSSUSVLEI • • • • •

The dunes at Sossusvlei are up to 325 metres high Sossusvlei is one of Namibia’s most popular tourist destinations, second only to Etosha National Park It is one of the most visually dramatic parts of the Namib Desert Dead Vlei’s camel thorn trees are between 500 and 600 years old according to carbon dating The star-shaped red dunes of Sossusvlei are formed by strong multidirectional winds

pan doesn’t look too far away, but once you start your descent you realize that the uphill journey took two hours with good reason. The run down probably takes much longer than one would expect, but at least you can thank the stars for little things like gravity and declining slopes, things you hated a few hours earlier. I was even lucky enough to spot a golden wheel spider (Carparachne aureoflava) rolling down the dune next to me.

GENERATION WANDERLUST

In that moment Namibia was the most beautiful place on earth, the epitome and the ultimate.

SITTING ON THE CORNER OF AWESOME AND BOMDIGGITY

We took a long stroll around Dead Vlei when we finally got down and sat in the “shade” of the petrified camel thorn trees.

The vlei is a photographic haven and any photographer’s dream destination. It would not be possible to take a bad photo here, even if you tried. I dare you! Around the campfire that night we talked again of how amazing this country we live in is. We talked about sunsets and swimming holes and how spectacular it was to sit atop that dune. We realized that it wasn’t going to be an easy feat to describe our experience to others, because nothing had compared to that gigantic moment on that mountain of sand. It was probably one of those “You had to be there” instances. In that moment Namibia was the most beautiful place on earth, the epitome and the ultimate.

And we had been standing on the very peak of it and in that moment we were the kings of the world. We were infinite and untouchable, surrounded by nothing but the majesty of nature, forever lost to the magnitude of the moment… TNN

Sitting on top of the world - 325m above sea level

Hauchabfontein is a great camping spot or stopover if you want to link a trip to Sossusvlei with a visit to the Naukluft Mountain section of the Namib-Naukluft Park. So next time you’re in the surrounds and a bit hot under the collar, be sure to go for a quick dip, explore the quiver tree forest also found on the farm or go on a 7 kilometre hike through the beautiful Naukluft wilderness.

Road D 854 Tel/Fax: +264 (0) 63 29 3433 Email: irmi@mweb.com.na

Book your next Sossusvlei adventure through StayToday.

At www.staytoday.com.na you can choose from over 20 different lodges in the area.

Missed the first installment of the Generation Wanderlust series? Find it online at www.travelnewsnamibia.com/ news/generation-wanderlust-mahango-game-park

"Selfie" time at an oasis in the largest living desert

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CYCLING WITH THE SUN Text & Photographs Marita van Rooyen

The SunCycle – Namibia's first solar-powered electric bicycle

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SOLAR BICYCLES

Namibia is a sunny country. It proudly boasts at least 360 days of warm and wonderful weather – an attribute that makes it an appealing destination for many travellers, especially those from colder corners of the globe.

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A SunCycle being charged at a SunStation

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very year thousands of sun-seeking, vitamin-A-hungry bodies flock to Namibia’s open spaces to soak up the heat and enjoy action-packed days of everlasting outdoor adventures (because, yes, this is what you do in sunny weather). And there are plenty of fresh air activities to keep the explorer busy: from hiking and horse riding, ballooning and skydiving, to craft collecting and birdwatching, canoeing and dune boarding. Dream of an activity that will have you grabbing for a good layer of sun protection, and you’ll find it here.

But now there is another way to fully utilise the energy of the sun while admiring blue skies and an intriguing natural environment. The SunCycle – Namibia’s first and only solar-powered electric bicycle – provides the option to see the country on two wheels, compliments of the pure energy from the sun.

As a concept that uses our biggest natural resource for a clean and sustainable way of transport, SunCycles Namibia offers thrill-seekers and environmentally conscious travellers an extra twist to their Namibian experience. With the wind in your hair and a permanent grin on your face, it makes steep hills comfortable to conquer, longer distances easier to cover, while still giving your legs a good dose of exercise as an added bonus (see the box for even more benefits).

The global e-mobility boom points towards a shift to cleaner transport – and Namibia is right on par!

SunCycles Namibia is a social enterprise – founded by Marita van Rooyen and Bernhard Walther – with e-bikes designed and built in Namibia, by Namibians and for Namibian travelling conditions. Dedicated to sustainable mobility and renewable energy, the team retrofits bicycle frames with electric engines and batteries, powered through photovoltaic systems. This superb combination makes visits to local attractions completely CO₂ neutral and allows for guilt-free sun soaking in a multitude of ways. And no need to worry that you might be caught in the

@

Your

handful of not-so-sunny days: the battery can of course still be recharged with conventional power, but yes, then it’s not so planet-friendly anymore, although still a thousand times better for your conscience than doing a game drive on a fuel guzzler.

Namibian journey

Further benefits of solar cycling include the fact that you have an alternative power supply in off-grid areas, as modern battery technology provides options to recharge and power USB applications, LED lights and small electric gadgets. This not only allows travellers to use a light for unearthing the bottle of red wine under otherwise pitch-black skies, but also gives local users an alternative transport option to the dominating taxi, plus opportunities for new business initiatives – mobile internet cafés, delivery services, cell phone recharge... the list is endless.

D A A N V I L J O E N W I N D H O E K

With a strong focus on bicycle empowerment and social upliftment, the SunCycles team operates in partnership with the local non-profit organisation Namibia Physically Active Youth to provide tools, know-how and unique skills to adolescents, working together to create a more enjoyable – and even sunnier – future. And keeping up with trends and the latest technology, they are constantly testing new engines, batteries, bicycle frames and solar systems best suited for local conditions.

So why not make your Namibian journey a green one and do some cycling with the sun? Just be warned that the possibility of onlookers shouting Jimi Hendrix lyrics as comments does exist. “There goes Ezy, Ezy Ryder, riding down the highway of desire, he says the free wind takes him higher...” Smooth sailing on solar-powered pedals indeed.

Don’t forget: Namibia is not only a solar Mecca, it is also an adventurer’s paradise. We recommend spots of unspoiled rugged nature – like the Spitzkoppe – to take the SunCycle for a spin. Or if you prefer slow cruises past a plethora of eye-catchers, try the self-guided Windhoek city route (see www.travelnewsnamibia.com for more) with ample pit stops and souvenir grabbing opportunities in between.

For more information on SunCycles Namibia and solarpowered sightseeing experiences visit www.suncyclesnamibia.org. TNN

BENEFITS OF SOLAR CYCLING 1. Breathe the freshest air, feel the sun on your skin 2. Explore new places and spend more time in nature 3. Environmentally friendly 4. Have the wind in your hair without the sweat down your back 5. Easy uphill 6. Cycle for longer, meditate on the go 7. Travel further, see more 8. Easier to escape from a dangerous situation (lions are lurking) 9. Get a natural high 10. Play your part in creating a better future!

Sun Karros Daan Viljoen is a stylish yet relaxed lodge a mere 20km from Windhoek. Located inside the Daan Viljoen Game Park a perfect start or end destination for your safari.

We offer overnight options to all nature enthusiasts be it on a comfortable camp site for the outdoor adventurer or in a modern stylish chalet for the nature lover enjoying the fine comforts in life.

A visit to the Daan Viljoen Game Park is a must when passing through Windhoek. Day visitors welcome to visit our Boma Restaurant.

Central Reservation Office: +264 833 232 444 Lodge direct: +264 61 232 393 Email: reservations@sunkarros.com

L CIAC E SP AD re

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1. TAKE A SEAT WITH PENDUKA Kobo Crafts at Penduka has produced a range of unique seating stools that will brighten up any room. A bucket is used as the main structure for these interesting chairs and there are many different colours and African patterns to choose from. They’re comfortable, modern and eclectic - what more could you want from a chair? Situated 12 kilometres from Windhoek, Penduka is a development project aimed at empowering women to take charge of their lives. Penduka means ‘wake up’ in the Oshiwambo and Otjiherero languages. The Penduka ethos is about making women recognize their potential, their talents, the possibilities open to them and how they can capitalise on these towards earning a livelihood. Contact Penduka at +264 61 257 210 or visit their website at www.penduka.com.

They can also be found at the Namibian Craft Centre.

Seating Stools N$ 875

TNN SHOPPING Compiled by Sanet van Zijl

2. ADD SOME LIFE TO YOUR HOME Various Namibian artists have been given the opportunity to showcase and sell their original artworks at Ekipa at the Namibian Craft Centre. These bright, hand-painted pieces will not only be a treat for the eye, but they will add warmth and some Namibian flavour to your home. The owner of Ekipa loves all things naturally Namibian and this is evident from all the products that they display. Ekipa is mainly a jewellery vendor,

but the art pieces on show at the shop shine just as bright as the intriguing pieces made by Grit Bottcher. Contact Ekipa to get your hands on these beautiful works at +264 61 258 743 or email pinsel@iway.na.

Artworks N$450 – N$600

4. LUXURIOUS WEAVES FROM KIRIKARA

3. A POCKET-SIZED NAMIBIA If you’re looking for a piece of Namibia to take home with you, look no further than Emage Workshop at the Namibian Craft Centre. They stock two different sizes of tins filled with bits and pieces of materials you would find all over Namibia. The small tin contains Namibian sand, a piece of ostrich eggshell, a piece of porcupine quill, a guinea fowl feather, a piece of leather, a lucky bean and a wooden bead. The larger tin contains the same as the smaller one plus a bean called “the alien” and a Namibian animal charm. The team of Emage Workshop has been crafting for over ten years and is thoroughly experienced with the skill-development and discipline required to fuse the open-ended, unstructured artistic process on the one hand with the goal-oriented, structured process on the other. If you would like to contact Emage Workshop, call +264 81 270 0852 or email emageworkshop@gmail.com.

The inside of Kirikara is covered with an array of woven rugs and carpets. If you wish to purchase a one-of-kind floor covering or wall hanging, the possibilities in this shop are endless. They start with pure wool of exceptional quality, which is extremely durable. The entire production process is completed by hand from spinning, dyeing and weaving to the final product. The designer uses a spectrum of over 200 colours: strong and subtle tones, primaries and pastels.

Carpets of up to four metres wide and up to virtually unlimited length can be made to order. Find Kirikara at the Bougain Villas Centre at 78 Sam Nujoma Drive or call them at +264 61 24 54 68.

Large N$ 13 000 – 16 000 Mid length N$ 6530 Small N$ 1800 – 4400

Small tin N$30 Large tin N$40

5. KEEP THE COLD AT BAY Winter is upon us and using a water bottle is a good way to stay warm and toasty during the chill. Casa Anin offers some lovely handmade water bottle covers to stay warm and stylish at the same time. Known for some of the finest Namibian bed linen and home textiles, Casa Anin has been committed to quality and service for almost 30 years. All their linen is handmade by a loyal team of Namibian women and sold at Casa Anin at the Bougain Villas Centre. Their products are also available online at www.anin.com.na. Phone them at +264 61 256 410.

Water bottle covers N$195

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All roads lead to Rome

NKASA RUPARA NATIONAL PARK Text & Photographs Pompie Burger

White-faced Ducks (Dendrocygna viduata)

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BIRDING

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To put it mildly, I am geographically challenged. When the first GPS came on the market, I really thought my problems of becoming lost were at an end, but not so. My first visit to the then Mamili National Park was many moons ago, back in the nineties with Basie, camping on the banks of the Kwando-Linyanti-Chobe River. Hippos cruised by with guilty-looking faces, and many new acquaintances were made as far as birds were concerned. An important difference to other game parks were the various rivers we had to cross, without the luxury of a bridge! Subsequent visits revealed new routes, new islands, new names, new bridges, new rules and obviously new birds (the ones I had failed to see and ID on my previous visits).

From camping inside the park to doing the lodge thing or camping outside the park at a community camp might sound like retro-development, but, as with all these developments, there is method in the madness. In short, the more tourists, the more rules are required. The park is probably host to the most combretum trees in the country and also the biggest ones. If you’re into the ‘Big Five’ thing, you’ll find the Big Five Trees at Mamili: baobabs, jackal-berries, sausage trees, mangosteen and knob-thorn.

When its berries are ripe, the jackal-berry tree at the lodge hosts some exciting birds. Black-collared Barbet (Lybius torquatus), African Green-Pigeon (Treron calvus), Grey

Go-away-bird (Corythaixoides concolor), Meyer’s Parrot (Poicephalus meyeri), Violet-backed Starling (Cinnyricinclus leucogaster) and Dark-capped Bulbul (Pycnonotus tricolor) are regular visitors to this enormous tree, devouring its berries with gusto. I haven’t seen any jackals around, although they would probably struggle to get that high up. For uninformed South Africans: the loud babbling in and around the camp comes from the Arrow-marked (Turdoides jardineii) and Hartlaub’s Babblers (T. hartlaubii), which lay claim to being the noisiest birds in the region.

The landscape in the park is constantly changing, as one would expect in a delta area. One thing that has definitely not changed are the large numbers of wildlife and birds.

Birding in the woodland area has much to offer, for example the ground dwellers such as Denham’s Bustard (Neotis denhami), Black-bellied Korhaan (Lissotis melanogaster), Swainson’s Spurfowl (Pternistis swainsonii) and Burchell’s Sandgrouse (Pterocles burchelli). Various raptors are doing the rounds, such as the Bateleur (Terathopius ecaudatus), African Fish-Eagle (Haliaeetus vocifer), Wahlberg’s Eagle (Aquila wahlbergi), Dark Chanting Goshawk (Melierax metabates), African Marsh-Harrier (Circus ranivorus), Lanner Falcons (Falco biarmicus), and the White-backed (Gyps africanus) and White-headed (Aegypius occipitalis) Vultures, whose work is cut out for them, namely cleaning up the mess the lions have left behind.

Striped Kingfisher (Halcyon chelicuti)

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BIRDING

White-faced ducks (Dendrocygna viduata)

Pin-tailed Whydah (Vidua macroura)

African long-tailed Shrike (Urolestes melanoleucus)

African Green-Pigeon (Treron calvus)

During the summer months there are plenty of bee-eaters here, with the Southern Carmine (Merops nubicoides), White-fronted (M. bullockoides), Blue-cheeked (M. persicus) and Little Bee-eaters (M. orientalis) being a common sight. Somehow the hornbills prefer spending time here in winter, when African Grey (Tockus nasutus), Red-billed (T. erythrorhynchus), Southern Yellow-billed (T. leucomelas), Bradfield (T. bradfieldi) Hornbills and the bold and beautiful Southern Ground-Hornbill (Bucorvus leadbeateri) are regular alternatives to the summer migrants.

Kingfishers are well-represented here, with the African Pygmy-Kingfisher (Ispidina picta) and Woodland (Halcyon senegalensis), Grey-headed (H. leucocephala), Striped (H. chelicuti) and Brown-hooded (H. albiventris) Kingfishers having a rather special presence, while the ‘water kingfishers’ such as the Malachite (Alcedo cristata), Half-collared (A. semitorquata), Pied (Ceryle rudis), and Giant (Megaceryle maxima) are plentiful around the channels, flood plains and rivers.

The flood plains are one of the special habitats of this area, with some very exciting birds to go with them. The African Openbill (Anastomus lamelligerus), Wattled Crane (Bugeranus carunculatus) and Saddle-billed Stork (Ephippiorhynchus

senegalensis) have a ball on the plains, while the Rufousbellied (Ardeola rufiventris), Squacco (A. ralloides) and Black (Egretta ardesiaca) Herons, Greater Painted-Snipe (Rostratula benghalensis), Slaty (Egretta vinaceigula) and Little (E. garzetta) Egret love the smaller pools. Spur-winged (Plectropterus gambensis) and African-Pygmy (Nettapus auritus) Geese, Comb (Sarkidiornis melanotos) and White-faced (Dendrocygna viduata) Ducks are a welcome variation to the boring buffaloes that mess up the flora along the waterways. Coucals are common, so if you want to add to your existing list, this is the place to look for White-browed (Centropus superciliosus), Coppery-tailed (C. cupreicaudus) and Senegal (C. senegalensis) Coucals, and maybe, just maybe, a Black Coucal (C. grillii), if you’re lucky.

A boat trip on the channels and Kwando-Linyanti-Chobe River is a must. First and foremost is the fact that apart from the odd Botswana Defence Force boat, there are no other racing boats on the river. We were lucky enough to have Moses as our helmsman, and although he was not able to part the water on our way to the mainstream, he did lead us to the promised land of plenty. The basket was filled with delicious snacks and drinks, but no baby Moses. Once you reach the main stream, African Darter (Anhinga rufa) nest along the river and

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Dickenson's Kestrel (Falco dickinsoni)

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BIRDING weaver nests during summer beautify the trees growing alongside the river. Purple (Ardea purpurea) and Green-backed (Butorides striata) Herons, African Jacanas (Actophilornis africanus) and African Purple Swamphen (Porphyrio madagascariensis) are flushed from the reeds as you go. The elephants do become a bit of a hassle, but once you get used to them, you can relax and enjoy the birding.

At sunset, when settled on your director’s chair on the deck of the lodge, or for the “agtergeblewenes” at the community camp, the night sounds kick in. The Painted Reed Frogs (Hyperolius marmoratus) usually start the cacophony, followed by Pearl-spotted Owlets (Glaucidium perlatum). Differentiating between hippo and elephant sounds is not that difficult, except if you’re stranded on the ground in a small tent in the community camp. The lions have a tendency to sound much louder and closer when you’re on the same level as they are, but they usually have more interesting things on their mind than humans.

With a bird count of over 450 species, you are definitely in for some serious birding (almost more than 70% of Namibia’s total count). The Pink-backed Pelicans (Pelecanus rufescens) on my previous visit were a welcome addition to my birding list, although on our last trip we saw five pelicans looking for landing space. Whether they were Pink or White is debatable, but for the record I would put my money on Pink. As for the Rosy-throated Longclaw (Macronyx ameliae), I might get lucky on my next visit, which might not be too far in the future.

Another Big-Five list for the intellectually handicapped accounts for lions, elephants, buffaloes, hippos and crocodiles.

If Moses were from Rome it would certainly make sense if he ended up in Kuala Lumpur. He, Simone and Laura make a formidable team. Keep in mind that once you enter the park, your GPS will be of no use because, for starters, the sun sets in the east, so just follow the road. Eventually you will reach Rome in time (it will take less than 40 years), although you might become confused with the various roads and wonder how many roads there actually are that lead to The Promised Land. TNN

Goliath Heron (Ardea goliath)

Black Heron (Egretta ardesiaca)

Denham's Bustard (Neotis denhami)

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HIKER’S HEAVEN IN THE NAUKLUFT Text and Photographs Elzanne Erasmus

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“

If you’re feeling very strong you can even go all five kilometres!” This was the NWR NamibNaukluft Camp manager’s advice to me when I asked him what he would suggest for a “relaxed adventure” during my first trip to the Naukluft in over 10 years. It was a long weekend and, like the rest of my countrymen, I was all too keen to swop hot and bothered Windhoek for another beautiful Namibian destination, preferably one with starry nights and lots of pretty birds. The Naukluft seemed the ideal stopover for a two-night camping trip before heading for the coast. So we set up camp along the small river at the newly renovated campsites which sport beautiful ablution blocks, warm water and friendly staff who make sure that your campsite is clean and you have

everything you need to make your stay wonderful.

After our camp was ready we were keen to go on a little adventure! Known for its amazing hiking routes, the mountains and streams and beautiful trees of the Naukluft are a nature lover’s paradise. Taking Johannes’s recommendation to heart and feeling quite strong (!), we set off on the easiest of the four trails the park offers. The Waterkloof route is a five kilometre trail that leads up to a set of crystal clear pools and what passes as a waterfall in Namibian terms, i.e. a set of cascades down the mountainside. Cool clear spring water seeps out of the rocks into what will become the Tsauchab River, which flows from the hilly nooks of the Naukluft all the way to Sossusvlei before it continues underground to the sea.

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We were equipped for our hiking adventure with a backpack full of snacks, a camera and a bottle of water, which we never needed as the river water is clean and cold and by far the most refreshing liquid I’ve tasted outside a Windhoek Lager bottle. On our feet we sported vellies of the kind they only make in Swakopmund with real Kudu leather. Though closed shoes are advisable, I wouldn’t necessarily say hiking boots are a must. I’m sure the more rigorous routes, such as the 4-day or 8-day trail, would call for proper hiking gear, but for this adventure our veldskoene were more than adequate.

The trail offered an abundance of ‘new’ trees to try and identify. As I haven’t quite mastered that particular skill yet I took pictures of every unfamiliar leaf and twig for an

FAST FACTS

NAMIB-NAUKLUFT NATIONAL PARK • Proclaimed in 1979 after merging Namib Desert Park and Naukluft Mountain Zebra Park • The largest conservation area in Namibia and one of the largest in Africa • Popular tourist attractions and features located within the park include Sossusvlei, Sesriem, the Welwitschia Trail, Sandwich Harbour, the Naukluft Mountains and Kuiseb Canyon • The two main sections are the central and southern Namib Desert and the Naukluft Mountains • The Naukluft section of the park was created to serve as a sanctuary for Hartmann’s mountain zebra and is a geological marvel with its impressive rock formations characterized by giant symmetrical patterns • The NWR Naukluft Camp has 6 newly built guest chalets, 21 campsites, 4x4 and hiking trails and nature walks. Among the new renovations to the establishment are also the added restaurant area, a bar and a kiosk.

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investigative identification session later with my newly acquired book Trees and Shrubs of Namibia. I decided to rather resort to another pastime that would most likely yield more rewarding (and familiar) results: birding. I had previously read about the wonderful birds to be seen in the park, but they all seemed to be attending some sort of aviary convention. The only winged creatures I could tick off my sad Naukluft birding list were a few red-eyed bulbuls, pale-winged starlings and a vocal grey go-away bird, made all the more depressing if you consider the fact that these are probably three of the most common birds in Namibia.

The scenery is breath-taking, however, and the hike is fairly easy except for some tricky clambering over a rock here and there. The trail is marked with yellow footprints painted on rocks at suitable intervals and an arrow or two to keep you on the right path, but I wouldn’t be too worried if you were to get lost. At least you’ll have wonderfully fresh water and red-eyed bulbuls to keep you company.

The ultimate reward awaits after a short 2.5 km trek. The water pools at the end of the route are stunningly beautiful and an ideal swimming spot. We ended up relaxing there for far longer than we actually spent hiking, so if a “relaxed adventure’ sounds like your cup of tea, the Waterkloof route is definitely a must. I’m sure avid hikers would do much better on the 10 kilometre Olive Trail, or even the 4 or 8-day routes, but for us Sunday-stroll bums the pot of gold comes in the form of pools full of cool turquoise blue water amidst undisturbed nature. I might even become a hiker if there is a promise of more such delights on the longer treks.

Be sure to take lots of pictures and to dive into the water.

With good company, the sound of water cascading down the mountainside and birds chirping, all while enjoying the most spectacular views of ancient cliff faces, it could be quite easy to imagine that heaven is nestled in the heart of the Naukluft. TNN

HIKING ROUTES:

Waterkloof Trail 5 km/17 km Olive Trail 10 km | 4-day trail | 8-day trail For detailed directions to Namib-Naukluft Park see this story online at www.travelnewsnamibia.com

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ADVENTURE 10. Hardap Resort 11. Khorixas Restcamp 12. Gross Barmen Resort 13. Terrace Bay Resort 14. Torra Bay Resort 15. Sesriem Campsite 16. Shark Island 17. Naukluft Campsite 18. Hobas Campsite 19. Duwisib Castle

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JOINT VENTURES IN FOUR WILD PLACES

Elzanne Erasmus talks to Vitor Azevedo about his new tourism business, Namibia Exclusive, and the joint-venture lodges which will open in four Communal Conservancies in northern Namibia in August.

I

n my mind I was sitting on a porch in front of a luxury suite overlooking an omuramba interspersed with tall trees. A roan trotted past and in the distance the sun was setting over the backdrop of the wild Khaudum National Park. Then the scene changed and I was suddenly in the Sheya Shuushona Conservancy north of Etosha watching game drink at a private waterhole, my camera snapping away. The next moment I was tracking black rhinos in the Ombonde valley and then following a herd of desert-adapted elephants as they made their way down the Ugab River. In reality, however, I was sitting on a brown leather couch in an urban office space in Windhoek’s northern industrial area, listening to Vitor Azevedo telling me about all these wonderful places with so much passion that I’m sure I could be forgiven for drifting off into a reverie.

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Born in Angola, Vitor and his family came to Namibia in 1975 as refugees and settled at a camp in Grootfontein. Vitor was 12 years old and although the circumstances were devastating, Namibia served as a sanctuary, a place of safety and a new home. Vitor tells of how northern Namibia is not much different from southern Angola and the small settlement where he was born in the middle of the bush. The landscape, nature and people, especially the Himba, were a source of comfort to him and he recalls how even the smell of ochre reminded him of home. Namibia and its people became a part of him.

He attended high school in Windhoek, left and only returned to Namibia just before independence. With new ideas and a passion for nature and tourism Vitor set off on a journey dedicated to conservation in his beautiful adopted country.

XAUDUM LODGE

Situated in the isolated Khaudum National Park, Xaudum is the only lodge in this perfectly wild corner of the country, particularly enticing to avid wilderness lovers and adventurers. Xaudum’s isolation creates a complete sense of freedom and it is so remote it will make you feel as if you have stepped 1,000 years back into the past.

SHEYA SHUUSHONA LODGE It is this conservation mindedness that led Vitor to the conclusion that when the time came to turn a lifelong dream into a tangible investment. The protection of Namibia’s natural resources was to play an integral part in every aspect of the project. With conservationist Vincent Guillemin four unique locations were selected where stunningly beautiful lodges could be built.

Sheya is found in the Sheya Shuushona communal conservancy on the northern border of Etosha National Park and owned jointly by Namibia Exclusive and the local community. With private waterholes, guests visiting Sheya have unmatched opportunities for game-viewing and wildlife photography at private waterholes.

SORRIS SORRIS LODGE

With natural wonders such as the Brandberg Massif and the Ugab River as a backdrop, Sorris Sorris is a Damaraland marvel. Here guests can delve into wonderful activities - like nature drives to find desert-adapted elephants or hot air balloon rides over the rugged landscape.

OMATENDEKA LODGE

Nestled in a valley in the midst of the Etendeka Mountain range, Omatendeka is an ideal refuge between the desert plains and Etosha National Park. A natural spring gives life to wildlife Namibia is proud to call its own, including desertadapted lion prides, Hartmann’s mountain zebras and black rhinos.

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These developments would not only serve as the ultimate in luxury and exclusive accommodation, but would also help to strengthen the communities in which they were located and assist in conservation efforts such as eco-friendly tourism and anti-poaching. Vitor firmly believes that the most beautiful places in Namibia can be found within conservancies and conservation areas, simply because they are so completely wild and untouched.

The location of each individual lodge therefore boasts unparalleled exclusivity. The respective natural surroundings and community cultures played an integral part in the design of every aspect of the site.

Vincent notes how each location has its own special wildlife attraction and that the mere presence of the lodges acts as a passive anti-poaching mechanism.

Each lodge will also be operated on an eco-ethno-tourism basis aiming to integrate the people of the area, who are the most important asset. Every lodge will strive to hire at least 70% of its staff from the local communities and train community members for specialised jobs.

A lioness lying in wait at the natural spring near the new Omatendeka lodge.

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ADVERTORIAL

With the award-winning chef David Thomas at the helm, each meal promises to be a culinary masterpiece, personalised for dietary needs and made in an elegant visually crafted approach. Chef David is training the Namibian chefs to each head their own kitchen at one of the four lodges. He will oversee the creation of every unique six-course menu, the drinks and wine lists, adding Namibian crafted foods to the ingredients, ensuring each lodge provides a different gastronomic experience.

L’Art de vivre: the art of living. That is the phrase that comes to mind when you absorb the hopes and dreams and pure zealous energy that drive Namibia Exclusive. With such unequalled exclusivity and unique locations, a masterpiece unfolds in the mind’s eye and, I for one, am extremely excited to see dreams and passion manifested in such a way on Namibian soil. TNN Photographs Olwen Evans & Piers L'Estrange Artist Renders Greg Wright Architects

The custom ‘bush limousine’ for inter-camp transfers

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ANJA DENKER ETOSHA

It's all about the pan

Etosha is Namibia’s best-­known and favourite wildlife park, with the pan covering an area of approximately 4,800 km², 140 km in length and 50 km in width at places.

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PHOTOGRAPHIC ESSAY

I

will never forget the utter disbelief and awe I felt early one morning at first light when I was greeted by the sight of a female leopard not just casually lounging “in” a tree, but sitting calmly on top of it, gazing out at the pan. It is an image I will always refer to as the “leopard roost”. I was privileged enough to spend the entire day with that leopardess – with no other cars in in the vicinity.

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It is this marked contrast that lures the keen photographer to capture all facets of the spectacle of nature and wildlife reflected in Etosha.

PHOTOGRAPHIC ESSAY

Patience, focus, determination and a bit of luck will reward you with once–in-a-lifetime sightings, producing photographs that reflect the unique character of Etosha. The sight of an elusive leopard walking along the pan is rare indeed, and one that not many people will ever have the privilege to experience.

One of my most memorable sightings was a solitary black rhino meandering slowly across the vast expanse of the pan, with only a few springbok for company.

The pan enthrals and fascinates me. I will return time and time again to try and capture the essence of this iconic place and to reflect the love I feel for its wildlife in my photography.

No sighting is ever the same - no photo can ever be duplicated, no matter how often you visit Etosha.

PHOTOGRAPHIC ESSAY

Wildlife photography on or around the pan can produce some spectacular images. The starkness creates an ideal backdrop for any animal, isolating and offsetting it beautifully.

Etosha’s climate can be described in two words: wet or dry. Summer is characterized by extreme heat, with trees stripped bare of leaves and offering little shade, parched dusty earth and drab colours.

TNN goes mountain biking with

CYMOT

Jacqueline Anjohis

Text & Photographs Elzanne Erasmus

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Every mountain biker will agree that it’s the terrain that makes the ride: the everchallenging surroundings, turns, loose rocks and steep declines. Technical sections in routes, diff icult climbs and often dangerous, rocky terrain are elements which lure adventure junkies and extreme sports enthusiasts back time and time again. It’s the combination of such great terrains and the thrill of the adventure in the wilderness that makes Namibia such a popular mountain-biking and cross-country cycling destination.

Mountain-bikers flock to the rocky outcrops and steep passes to get their f ix.

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Few MTB events are this family friendly.

The youngest cyclist of the weekend's event was only 6 years old.

Independence weekend 2015 not only saw the inauguration of a new president but also the start of what is certain to become an epic annual MTB event - the Erindi Camp Elephant MTB Funride. Riders from across the country (everyone who wasn’t brave or crazy enough to take part in the Cape Epic that took place the same weekend) gathered at the Omaruru Gate of Erindi early on the morning of Saturday, 21 March.

The wet drizzle that descended onto the helmets of eager and enthusiastic cyclists made for perfect mountain-biking weather: not too wet so that they would have to carry their bikes through

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flowing rivers, but wet enough for the required mud splatter line to be evident on the backs of their shirts when they crossed the finish line.

We were a group of seven riders who had decided to take part in the funride that weekend, sponsored by Travel News Namibia and StayToday and kitted out by our friends at Cymot.

The race had three categories: 60 km, 30 km and a 15 km fun trip for the young, the old or the not too fit, and the seven of us were spread out through the three distance groups as we weren’t equally well-trained, or crazy...

TNN GOES MTB-ING TOP MTB EVENTS There are numerous mountain-bike and cycling events in various parts of the country throughout the year.

Some of the most popular events include the Nedbank Cycle Challenge in February; the Klein-Aus Vista MTB Challenge, Windhoek Light Namib Quest and Kuiseb Classic MTB in May; the Otjihavera Xperience in August; the Desert Knights Cycle Challenge in September; the Namibian Pick & Pay Cycle Classic in October; the 100 km of Namib Desert and the Cycletec Spring Festival in November; and the famous FNB Desert Dash in December.

Doons van Wyk, the organiser and manager of Camp Elephant, made sure, with entertaining opening remarks, that every rider had an idea of where they were supposed to be going.

He jokingly warned them of leopards and the unwelcome boost they might get from an electric fence if they were to stray too close, but the riders all knew that their biggest threat would most probably be a camel thorn’s long pen-like spine puncturing a tyre, something not even fancy slime tyres are immune to. Doons also offered a weekend stay at Old Traders Lodge, Erindi’s luxury accommodation, as a reward to the rider who snapped a picture of a pair of very special little antelope they might find on their route. He did not specify what species but it was assumed that he was referring to Namibia’s smallest indigenous antelope, the Damara dik-dik, which favours the thick thorny bushland area the route led through.

The 60 km riders darted away when Doons sent them off with a loud “Go guys go! Laat julle weg kom” - Afrikaans for “Get on your way” - soon followed by the other two groups. The routes were well marked and clear, interspersed with steep uphill climbs around the sides of mountainous outcrops and some thick river sand to navigate at stages. The most wonderful part of the ride was of course the beautiful landscape and untouched nature.

Riders who looked up from the track in front of them every now and then were able to spot yellow-billed kites nesting in trees, tortoises taking their time and steenbok darting through the underbrush. Waterholes along the route also showed signs of kudu and other antelope. The scenic beauty of the area is one of the factors that make a mountain-biking funride such as this one all the more special. Erindi staff waited in the bush at designated water points with refreshments, including Powerades and energy bars, and the friendliest of smiles, cheering us on and helping with flats and bumps and scrapes.

At the finish line Doons and his team handed out more snacks and treats, including freshly barbequed “boerewors rolls” (hotdogs). Each rider received a participation medal made out of wood in the shape of an elephant footprint. Later that afternoon a prize-giving and lucky draw took place at the Camp Elephant swimming pool to congratulate the winners and reward special cyclists, such as the youngest rider who was only 6 years old!

Next year's Erindi Camp Elephant Funride is sure to be just as big a hit, so don't miss out. Keep your eyes open for those little dik-diks the next time you're in the area - none of the riders had been lucky enough to catch a glimpse of them. TNN

Wooden medals made for an interesting change.

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2015/04/23 2:44 PM

DISCOVERING THE

FISH RIVER CANYON Text Ron Swilling Photographs Ron Swilling & Paul van Schalkwyk

Many folk travel to the ends of the Earth, yet haven’t visited the spectacular canyon right on their doorstep. Besides being a scenic voyage and an awe-inspiring adventure, the journey is unexpectedly spiced with charm.

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A

s I turned onto the gravel roads towards the spot where the Earth opens up into an enormous smile, grinning for all to see, I wondered about the route to the canyon.

Was it purely a landscape jaunt, I mused, while following a road that skirted a table-topped mountain and led into an earthy tapestry dotted with spiky Euphorbias. I mean, so far from civilisation, what else could there be?

Answers soon began to flood in as if I’d directed my question to the canyon PRO herself. And it wasn’t long after passing the green oasis of palms and vineyards around Naute Dam that I came across signs for biltong, cold drinks and arts & crafts, crowned with colourful flags swaying languidly in the warm breeze. They directed me past an old railway siding, farmhouse and wind-turbine to the padstal entrance adjacent to a large truck emblazoned with the sign ‘Tea and Coffee and Kudu Pies’.

Mount Canyon Farmyard, a fresh addition to the route, is run by newly-married husband and wife team, Simoné and Jannaman Jochimsen. The couple met at a sokkie dance in Windhoek two years ago. Afterwards, the smitten Jannaman drove 1500 km to the Cape to take Simoné out for dinner. She refused, but couldn’t resist the lure of love for long. The couple married and moved to Jannaman’s family farm where they opened the small farm stall that sells Simoné’s karringmelk beskuit and kookmelk koekies, Jannaman’s hand-crafted windmills, paintings by Ma and jams made by Tannie Ansie. O ja, and home-baked kudu pies. Anticipating the great Earth Wonder ahead of me, I asked for their thoughts about the Fish River Canyon. “It’s a different kind of beauty. You can’t really explain it,” Simoné chirped. Jannaman agreed, “It’s one of the great wonders of the world, you have to experience it yourself.” It reminded him of what the pastor had said in church when describing the ocean: “When you stand at a distance, you can’t really relate to it, but it’s when you are in the waves that you only begin to understand its power.”

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Waving them goodbye, I continued on the well-maintained gravel road. Only one vehicle appeared, announcing its presence in a cloud of dust long before it approached me. The sun was slowly sinking in the sky, colouring everything in that late afternoon light that makes you feel like you have driven through the gates of heaven. The flat-topped Klein Karas Mountain kept me company for a while until I turned towards the Spiegelberg spire and the distinctive flat-topped Holoog Mountain. I stopped every few minutes, finding something else to photograph, while my car’s fan spun wildly, trying to keep up with the Namibian heat and my bizarre behaviour. A gemsbok stood frozen, framed against a backdrop of purple mountain, a kudu bull loped across the road with the sun anointing its twirled horns, ostriches and springbok darted away, and signs

WHAT TO DO IN AND AROUND THE CANYON • •

• • •

• • • • •

Fish River Canyon 90 km trail: A 5-day wilderness trail for the fit and self-sufficient (May to mid-Sept).

Contact NWR: www.nwr.com.na Slackpacking in the northern part of the canyon for friends and family (guided and catered trail; accommodation is in cabins and tented camps, positioned along riverbanks and up on plateaus; mules carry gear). Contact Gondwana: +264 (0)61 230066, www.gondwana-collection.com Exploring the canyon viewpoints: Several viewpoints to the north and south of the main viewpoint provide different perspectives from which to gasp at the canyon grandeur.

4x4 Wildebeest and Mountain Zebra drives (permits available at the Roadhouse and Canyon Lodge) Walks and guided drives with the lodges in the area, such as the fully catered 3-5 day canyon hike offered

by Fish River Lodge, www.fishriverlodge.com.na Wallowing in the hot spring at /Ai-/Ais - at the large outdoor pool or indoors at the spa.

Purchase some homemade padkos at Mount Canyon Farmyard (south of Naute Dam) Enjoy lunch and inspiration at the Roadhouse

warned drivers to be cautious in the fence-free wildlife area.

I later discovered that I had entered the Gondwana Canyon Park, 130 000 hectares of land that had been a disparate group of sheep farms before they were gradually purchased, the fences dismantled, animals reintroduced and the land ‘rewilded’. It was a serendipitous bonus to the canyon trip.

Now, someone had a sense of humour! As I neared the Roadhouse, signs painted with a sad or puzzled face enquired ‘Hungry?’ ‘Thirsty?’ ‘Sleepy?’ The last one beamed a smile.

How could I resist? Turning off ‘the main drag’ towards the red-roofed Roadhouse, I was met with old Chevys, a Dodge, a windmill, quiver trees bursting from old car bonnets, bird chatter and enough charm to keep the planet lubricated and smiling for about a century – or more. In addition to the attraction of the Roadhouse’s famous Amarula cheesecake, burgers and cappuccinos, it has over the years become an iconic stop and travelling tradition en route to the canyon, 30 km away. An International truck serves as the reception desk, a pompstasie is the bar and guests dine amongst the intriguing old motoring paraphernalia, American automobiles from yesteryear and car cabs that serve as fireplaces in the wintertime. The entertainment continues when curious bathroom visitors open a Pandora’s Box naughtily positioned on the paintings of a buxom blonde and dashing stud, sending an alarm ringing through the restaurant and alerting friends to the fact that he or she peeked and therefore owes them a drink. It was all in good fun and laughter rang through the multicoloured interior like refreshing water in a mountain spring.

Okay, I was more than convinced about the charm. “But, what about the canyon?” I asked Roadhouse manager Johan van Schalkwyk, as we sipped coffee at a table flanked by a canaryblue Chevrolet truck and wacky bric-a-brac. “If you know anything about geological history, it’s like a look back in time,” he replied thoughtfully, adding that the canyon is not about people, it’s about standing on the edge by yourself. “It makes you feel small – humble!”

The 90 km Fish River Canyon trail takes 4 - 5 days to complete

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FISH RIVER CANYON WHERE TO DREAM • • • • • •

/Ai-/Ais Hot Springs Resort chalets and camping www.nwr.com.na, +264 (0)61 285 7200 Hobas Campsite – camping (keep eyes open for baboon visitors) www.nwr.com.na, +264 (0)61 285 7200 The Roadhouse – in the Roadhouse rooms surrounding inner courtyards or at the campsite +264 (0)61 230066, www.gondwana-collection.com Canyon Lodge – chalets nestled amongst giant granite boulders www.gondwana-collection.com, +264 (0)61 230066 Canyon Village, positioned in an amphitheater of rock, suitable for larger groups The secluded Mountain Camp for self-caterers +264 (0)61 230066, www.gondwana-collection.com For the luxury adventurer – go on a fully catered canyon hike.

Quench your thirst at the Roadhouse's Pompstasie bar.

The Fish River Canyon is 550 metres deep, covers a distance of 90 kilometers and is up to 27 kilometres at its widest.

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And then, it was time to finally visit the grand earth masterpiece for myself. I paid my entrance fee at Hobas and drove along the 10 km road that didn’t give any hint that the landscape was anything out-of-the-ordinary. So, where, then, was this great canyon? I climbed out, hot and frazzled, at the viewpoint parking to be bowled over by grandeur.

The sight before me had me spellbound and frozen, in awe - or gratitude. I was just a simple human being who had arrogantly confronted eternity. In a millisecond of recognition, I acknowledged my short life span as a blink in the Earth time that had taken millions-of-years for this chasm-of-chasms to form, shaped by earth cataclysms and the Fish River’s timeless journey.

A car pulled up and broke my reverie. I strolled along the path to the hikers’ viewpoint and then, with my head spinning, continued southwards. My first stop was Canyon Lodge, its reception area housed in a century-old German farmhouse. An old bedstead remains on the roof, placed there by the original owner, in accordance with an old German tradition to inform visitors that a marriageable bachelor was resident on the premises. Okay, I got the charm bit, I really did.

Old car wreck en route to /Ai-/Ais hot springs

/Ai-/Ais was calling, and the hot-springs - definitely more of an attraction in the cooler months of the year, I decided, as I cursed my car's long defunct air conditioner. I made my way past an old Chev on the roadside whose fan whizzed and whistled in the wind, stifling heat and canyon silence, past the views of the mountainous plateaus that dropped into canyon depths, into the /Ai-/Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park and along the corrugated road into the forbidding mountains around the resort.

‘All shook up’, I stumbled out, to leap into the warm spring waters that have made this a popular holiday destination from the time when people arrived by ox-wagon, spending months soaking in the therapeutic pools surrounded by Phragmites reeds. Today, it attracts holiday-seekers in 4x4s and people like me, who like to pitch their tents under the stars and dream of eternity.

Before reaching the tar, Noordoewer and the mighty Orange River that bisects the two countries, I pored over my well-thumbed map noting my options: travel the well-graded gravel road or the stonier and more remote route to the moon-like landscape and river? I chose the latter. Why? Because Life is just ‘a flash of a firefly’, a short Earth adventure – a reality that became clear to me while standing on the edge of the second largest canyon in the world.

WHERE TO FILL UP

/Ai-/Ais or the Roadhouse.

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A GIGANTIC GRIN

Considered to be the second largest canyon in the world after the Grand Canyon in Arizona, USA, the

FISH RIVER CANYON

Candelabra euphorbia (Euphorbia virosa)

Fish River Canyon is 550 metres deep and covers a distance of 90 kilometres to its end at /Ai-/Ais. Its widest point measures 27 kilometres.

This great artist is in no rush. The sculpturing of the canyon is a piece of art that has taken hundreds of millions of years to reach this point, and continues. The slow geological formation of the canyon walls began long before the tectonic event when the earth’s crust subsided along faults, giving the Fish River an easier route to follow. It was the river’s passage that began the slow erosion of the canyon. Glaciers are also believed to have scraped along the ancient riverbed, helping to shape the canyon depths.

When the supercontinent Gondwana began to break up 120 million years ago, it lifted the continental edges to form the younger and deeper part of the canyon. The increased gradient caused the Fish River to flow faster, carving out the canyon millimetre by millimetre, year by year. In the last few million years, it managed to cut through the hard quartzites of the Nama group and reach the ancient gneisses of the Namaqualand Metamorphic Complex. These layers are visible today on the canyon walls, marked by a line of unconformity separating the two, which gives us a glimpse way back in time. TNN

HOW TO GET THERE There is a choice of routes to reach the canyon’s eastern side and the main canyon viewpoint. If travelling from the south, the C10 and the more remote C37 (reached from Aussenkehr) lead to the most southerly point of the canyon at /Ai-/Ais. The C12, near Grünau, is the route to take to reach the canyon viewpoint, Hobas and the Roadhouse. Canyon Lodge, Canyon Village and Mountain Camp are approx. 30 km southwards.

If travelling from the north, the C12 can be taken from Seeheim or the D545 via the Naute Dam oasis. Mooi ry.

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WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS

Winter is a good time to get started Text & Photographs Annabelle Venter

W

ith a surfeit of high-end digital cameras to choose from, a need to get away from the pressures of city life and easy access to game parks in southern Africa, more and more people enjoy the relaxing past-time of escaping to wide open spaces to take wildlife photographs.

Add to this the ease of marketing yourself via social media like Facebook and Instagram, and what’s stopping you from joining the ranks? But what exactly is wildlife photography, and just as importantly, what is it not? Let’s try to define Wildlife Photography and explore Namibia’s role in this interesting field.

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WHAT IS IT EXACTLY?

Wildlife photography is defined as photographing wild, freeroaming animals, birds, insects etc. (i.e. all wild creatures) in their natural habitat. These subjects are never dependent on humans for their food or shelter. Occasionally, however, wild creatures may make use of man-made structures (e.g. urban wildlife). Nevertheless they are still free to come and go as they please, they are self-sufficient and do not interact with humans.

What wildlife photography is not: images of wild animals in captivity, or of those dependent on humans for their survival.

Nature photography, i.e. landscapes and plants, is often

PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS

Our dry, blue-skied winters in Namibia are an ideal time to get out into the bush for a bit of wildlife photography. But have you ever wondered why wildlife photographers are popping up everywhere like mushrooms these days?

included in the wildlife definition. I define my type of photography as ‘wild photography’ and it encompasses flora, fauna and wild places.

A DREAM DESTINATION

Now that we know what it is, it becomes apparent that Namibia is an ideal country for this type of photography, since we are fortunate enough to have an abundance and a great variety of wildlife in all parts of our beautiful country. Effective conservation practices continue to ensure the survival of many species that would otherwise have disappeared from our

landscapes. Your chances of spotting cheetah on the northern farm roads are often better than in Etosha for example, since 95% of our wild cheetah live outside the park. Etosha is thought to have less than 50 cheetahs, but the real number may be far lower.

Even in our capital city of Windhoek we live very close to nature. Yellow mongooses roam the streets, porcupines and small spotted genets enter gardens in the dead of night, and kudu nibble on the city’s peripheral fences. Any nature-loving resident will be only too happy to regale you with an impressive list of birds in his or her garden. Occasionally we have to

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You will need a fair amount of technical know-how for editing and processing RAW image f iles.

try and live harmoniously with more unwelcome visitors like snakes, scorpions and the odd baboon. In any event, wildlife photography is a hobby that you can practise virtually anywhere in our country.

WHAT IT TAKES

But if you want to make this your career, a certain degree of commitment is required over and above a love of spotting the flora and fauna. You will need patience (and I can assure you that this can be learnt!), an in-depth knowledge of your subject matter, a sense of adventure and a fair amount of technical know-how for editing and processing the RAW image files on your computer.

And did I mention passion? Without passion even the most skilful photographer cannot become a wildlife photographer, as you are likely to spend many, many hours in uncomfortable positions and in hot vehicles, get up at least an hour before sunrise and generally lead quite an a-social life. No holiday will ever be the same again. Be warned: wildlife photography is a drug like any other and once addicted it is very hard to kick the habit! It will slowly take over your life and your family’s as well and dictate every single journey you undertake, except of course, for those trips which require you to dutifully visit your family...but what a thrilling addiction! It will show you places you never dreamed of visiting and open up the world at your feet, and eventually you will feel sick with longing when you cannot escape the confines of the city. Every day something incredible is happening out there – the never-ending scenes of nature’s play continue whether or not you are there to observe them and the thought will drive you crazy. Such is the life of a wildlife photographer.

WOMEN IN WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY

I noticed recently that there are very few women who pursue this form of photography as a career, especially here in Namibia. One would think that this would be a popular choice in a country with such diverse scenery and wild creatures. Well, we’ve already established that you need to be passionate, a bit of an introvert, keep a-social hours, have patience and some degree of technical know-how, but since all of these are quite achievable there must be more to it than that, and there is. Safety is a major issue in southern Africa and it’s often a risk for women to travel alone and with expensive gear, but what is more important perhaps: if a woman wants to have children she will be housebound as their primary caregiver for many years.

These are just some of my own thoughts. To get a different perspective, I approached two fellow female wildlife photographers for their take on the matter.

South African Olwen Evans, who often travels on her own in southern Africa and Namibia in particular, has this to add: “It seems like a glamorous lifestyle but requires long periods of solitude, away from the creature comforts of home, bearing your home, office and studio with you wherever you go, rather like a tortoise.” A former medical professional, she says “I often feel it's similar to practicing anaesthetics: 95% tedium and 5% wow! And that small percentage is incredible enough to make it all worthwhile.”

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You may spend many hours in uncomfortable positions in hot vehicles to get a specif ic shot.

You will need patience and an in-depth knowledge of your subject matter.

A certain degree of commitment is required over and above a love of spotting fauna and flora.

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Namibian Anja Denker is currently a part-time photographer and artist but her focus is 100% wildlife, with a special interest in birds. While Anja says her main priority right now is to support her 16-year-old daughter who will finish school next year, she’d like to pursue photography fulltime in the future.

There is, as with most things, an etiquette involved and using it wisely will increase your viewership and promote your skills as a photographer.

•

Luckily for her, photography and trips into nature are a shared passion in her family, so most holidays they are off to photographic destinations. The time Anja currently spends at home is devoted to honing her technical and editing skills, marketing her work and arming herself with knowledge about all things photographic.

Anja says there are two things in Namibia that could prove to be a disadvantage for women – the safety issues previously mentioned, and perhaps the climate which can reach extremes, particularly in summer. She feels this could be a negative factor as one gets older. Anja also points out that women are generally social creatures and agrees that it’s a very solitary life as a wildlife photographer.

ANJA HAS SOME TIPS FOR OTHER WOMEN WISHING TO PURSUE THIS LINE OF WORK: • • •

Be passionate about what you do and be comfortable with your own company Visit areas where you will not be alone, like game parks. At Avis Dam, for example, Anja stays close to the security guards and popular trails.

Don’t wear jewellery or carry valuables other than your camera and cell phone.

Anja feels that wildlife photographers everywhere can do much to raise awareness of our natural world. This is something close to her heart and she supports a number of conservation organisations. She says that an image can convey so much more than words and today it’s so easy to share your work via social media.

Her dream is to see every wildlife photographer devote a small portion of their time and money to conservation issues. Her favourite photographic destinations are Etosha National Park, the Zambezi region and the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in South Africa.

SHARING YOUR IMAGES ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Why do you want to share your images? Do you just want to share your holiday snaps with friends and family? Or do you want to market your wildlife photography business?

Whatever your goal, it helps to hone your social media skills and observe a few important points when using the power of the internet.

The two most popular platforms are Google+, which supports high definition images and has 2.2 million users, and Facebook with 1.3 billion users. Let’s look at Facebook and its tremendous reach.

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• •

• • •

•

•

• • • •

•

Sizing your images is very important. A 72 dpi Jpeg at maximum decreased space 250kb is a good size. Any bigger and it will take too long to open, with the result that you lose your viewer.

Size your cover photo correctly, so that what you want to appear on that long slot at the top of your page will actually be in the right place. 851 pixels wide by 315 is what Fb recommends, but a good wildlife cover image looks slightly better at 960 pixels on the long side. This sizing is also suitable for your timeline images.

Use a good, clear image of yourself for your profile image. People want to see the person behind the lens!

Never swamp your page with images. Select your best and post selectively. Ten times a day is not cool. Your audience will skip over yet another image from you and the impact will be lost. Choose images in keeping with your recent trips, the current season or a topical conservation issue.

It’s helpful to the viewer to give technical information where you can, providing an educational aspect.

NEVER beg for ‘Likes”. EVER. If you have set up a photography business, provide all the necessary contact information, easily visible and try to use the same name as your website or business.

Used wisely this can be a useful marketing tool.

Never post a whole unedited file of your latest weekend away straight off your camera. 47 images (some of them blurred, spotty and repetitive) are enough to make anyone hit the escape button and move on.

Getting ‘Likes’ is not as important as you think. The aim of a page is not to garner as many as possible, but to show your work or make a statement. You’d rather have 100 people really interested in what you are doing than 2997 ‘Likes’, aiming for 3000 with a free giveaway.

Be generous and share other wildlife photographers’ photos to your page now and then, commenting on what you like about them.

Take care to respond sensibly to genuine queries and interest on your page. Single adjectives are not sensible responses!

Tell the story behind your images and draw the viewer into your world.

Share links to your own webpage/blog now and then to draw viewers to your real web presence. For a business, a Facebook page does not carry enough weight. You need a website with detailed information.

Carefully edit your images and use a light and tasteful watermarked copyright over the lower part of the image. Image theft is rife on the internet.

In creating awareness through wildlife photography we foster a spirit of caring and only when we care for something, can we begin to protect it for future generations. Be inspired to reach for your camera and head out to the wild spots of this beautiful country to capture your own images of our wildlife. TNN

PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS

Without passion even the most skilful photographer cannot become a wildlife photographer.

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WINTER WEATHER AT A GLANCE

Compiled by Annabelle Venter Photograph Paul van Schalkwyk

Clear blue skies and warm daytime temperatures – this is an ideal time to travel in Namibia.

WINTERTIME We’re back on wintertime, which is GMT +1 in Namibia. It means that we have daylight earlier in the morning, already before office hours, but less at the end of the day as the sun sets around 17h30 (see table above). The Zambezi region remains on GMT +2 all year round.

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THE WEATHER IN WINTER This year we experienced an unusually late rainy season, but despite rather low rainfall figures we still have loads of green grass covering the central highlands even now, as winter approaches. Areas further south have not been so lucky, while Etosha has had late rains in places.

Mornings and nights can be very chilly in June and especially in July, our coldest month, and we all look for a spot in the sun as the day progresses.

Clear skies during winter add to the night-time drop in temperatures, so don’t forget to wrap up warmly after dark.

Winter at the coast is full of surprises. If it isn‘t cold and misty, strong easterly winds may be blowing from the interior with warm to hot and sunny days in their wake. Bring some summer clothes and your swimsuit – just in case.

With no chance of rain, winter is a great time of year to travel and it’s particularly good for game viewing in Etosha, our premier game park. In a dry year like this, animals are forced to visit waterholes earlier than usual. The elephants will have returned to the vicinity of the waterholes by now and will visit them every day. A shortage of natural savannah grass could mean, however, that difficult times are in store.

In the far south-western corner of Namibia you may experience winter rainfalls as a result of South Atlantic cold fronts moving in across neighbouring South Africa. You might even be lucky enough to witness a little snowfall in the south – very rare but amazing to experience. For the rest of the country you can look forward to perfect travelling weather, with midday temperatures in the northern parts warm enough for a swim!

MAX/MIN TEMPERATURES (CELSIUS)

AVERAGE NAMIBIAN RAINFALLS

June

July

Windhoek

7/20

6/20

Swakopmund

9/23

Zambezi Etosha

Aug

March

April

May

9/23

Windhoek

81 mm

38 mm

6 mm

8/21

8/20

NorthEaster

96 mm

37 mm

2 mm

6/27

6/27

9/30

Coastal areas

8 mm

2 mm

2 mm

7/25

7/25

9/29

HEALTH PRECAUTIONS

SUNRISE & SUNSET WINDHOEK

Sunrise

Sunset

15 June

06h29

17h15

15 July

06h31

17h24

15 August

06h16

17h36

MOON PHASES

• After late rains the risk of malaria still exists.

If you travel north of Windhoek, add malaria prophylaxis to your medication list and spray/ cover yourself after dark.

• Sunscreen: with no clouds and beautiful sunny days, sunburn is a reality in winter as well.

• Hydration: drink enough fluids throughout the day. It’s a very dry time of year and humidity is extremely low.

It’s wonderful to go camping in Namibia just before full moon and enjoy the maximum amount of natural light in the early part of the night. If you ever said you’ll do something only once in a ‘blue moon’ then your chance arrives in July!

Full Moon

New Moon

2 June

16 June

2 July

16 July

31 July

14 August

29 August

Blue Moon 31 July Second full moon in the same calendar month Winter Solstice 21 June

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Sunday Sermons and Decorated Calves’ Heads

THE LEGACY OF THE OLD STRAND HOTEL Text Edward Jenkins Photographs Courtesy of the Sam Cohen Library, Swakopmund

L

ater this year Swakopmund will enjoy the opening celebrations for the long-awaited new Strand Hotel at the Mole (the breakwater). Among many other challenges this state-of-the-art facility will have to live up to the rich traditions of the earlier Strand Hotels which have preceded it.

A grainy black-and-white photo dated March 1913 shows a view of the first Strand Hotel, with a large billboard on the side of the building proudly advertising ‘B. Meisel’ as the proprietor. Very close in the background Swakopmund’s new iron jetty can be seen, two large cranes poised to hoist cargo and passengers from the surf boats ferrying them from the ships at anchor. After enduring the trauma of being handled like sacks of grain, the passengers must have been grateful to find their hotel so close!

When the thriving economy grinded to a halt in the aftermath of the First World War, Swakopmund became little more than a sleepy fishing village. The town fathers, with government support, set out to promote the use of the Mole and Jetty area for recreational activities in order to boost the economy.

Around 1919 a Strand Café (not related to the earlier Strand Hotel) was operating at the Mole. By the mid-1920s, the business evolved into the Strand Café and Restaurant, owned

by E. Oblmann.

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The café, located right on the water, quickly became a gathering spot for locals and business travellers alike - it still was many years before the advent of a tourism industry worth mentioning. One long-time Swakopmund resident recalls that in the late 1940s, at a time when everyone attended church on Sundays, it was mandatory to stop at the Strand Café afterwards. But some, he says, just skipped the church and went straight to the café for a morning pint. The owner at that time, a Mr J. Schiessl, offered a very popular cake dessert, garnished with fresh fruit, and the church avoidance crowd would announce on Sundays that they would be visiting ‘Pastor’ Schiessl, for his ‘Obsttorten Predigt’ (roughly: ‘fruit cake sermon’)…

Another long-time Swakopmunder recalls a 1951 wedding reception at a private home, which was catered for by the Strand Café. He vividly remembers the specially prepared and decorated calf’s head that was served, as well as a magnificent illuminated ice sculpture of Swakopmund’s lighthouse.

By the 1960s the single-story Strand Café had evolved into the Strand Hotel. A two-story addition provided accommodation for visitors. At one point owned by the Hansa Brewery, the hotel became an integral part of Swakopmund’s social scene and remained a focal point until it was razed

SWAKOPMUND

several years ago to make way for the new hotel, restaurant and shopping complex.

Without question the new facility, scheduled to open in the latter part of this year, will develop its own traditions and provide a relaxing venue for its devoted clientele, whether churchgoing or not. TNN

FOR MORE INFORMATION Strand Hotel Swakopmund www.strandhotelswakopmund.com 0&L LEISURE HOTELS & LODGES T +264 61 207 5365 www.ol-leisure.com

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