Namibia TRAVEL NEWS
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VOLUME 25 No 3 | AUTUMN 2017
THE LAND OF
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is published by Venture Media in Windhoek, Namibia www.travelnewsnamibia.com Tel: +264 61 420 500, 1 Mozart Street, Windhoek West PO Box 21593, Windhoek, Namibia MANAGING EDITOR Rièth van Schalkwyk PRODUCTION MANAGER Elzanne Erasmus elzanne@travelnewsnamibia.com PUBLIC RELATIONS Janine van der Merwe janine@travelnewsnamibia.com LAYOUT & DESIGN Liza de Klerk CUSTOMER SERVICE Bonn Nortjé bonn@venture.com.na ONLINE EDITOR Sanet van Zijl info@travelnewsnamibia.com
TEXT CONTRIBUTORS Ron Swilling, Elzanne Erasmus, Sanet van Zijl, Helge Denker, Pompie Burger, Oliver Halsey, Ginger Mauney, Rièth van Schalkwyk, Marita van Rooyen, Annabelle Venter, Annelien Robberts PHOTOGRAPHERS Elzanne Erasmus, Ron Swilling, Pompie Burger, Helge Denker, Xenia Ivanoff-Erb, Oliver Halsey, Annabelle Venter, Emily Kandanga, Sanet van Zijl, Paul van Schalkwyk, Gerhard Thirion PRINTERS John Meinert Printing, Windhoek Travel News Namibia is published quarterly, distributed worldwide and produced solely on Apple Macintosh equipment. The editorial content of TNN is contributed by freelance writers and journalists. It is the sole property of the publisher and no part of the magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.
COVER PHOTOGRAPH Elzanne Erasmus
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Namibia TRAVEL NEWS
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2015
and the Environment in Namibia
VOLUME 25 No 3 | AUTUMN 2017
TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA is a high-quality glossy Namibia travel and lifestyle magazine tasked with promoting Namibia to the world. Travel News Namibia is published quarterly in English and annually in German. The NAMIBIA HOLIDAY & TRAVEL is an annual tourism directory with over 200 pages of updated information on the country, regions, people, activities and wildlife.
THE LAND OF
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YEARS
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CONSERVATION AND THE ENVIRONMENT IN NAMIBIA, an annual special edition of Travel News Namibia, is published in cooperation with the Ministry of Environment and Tourism.
WWW. TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM TNN online is home to more than 20 years worth of content. We’ve been online since 1995, keeping readers across the world up-to-date with what’s happening in Namibia! Visit us today for the most amazing photos, enticing stories and comprehensive information on all things Namibia!
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EDITOR’S LETTER
NAMIBIA IS GREEN AGAIN O
ne would imagine that the summer issue would be the “green” one with pictures of billowing clouds, dramatic sunsets and flowering landscapes. A photograph of a leopard against a lush green backdrop, looking straight into the lens, is not what one would expect to see on the cover of a Namibian travel magazine. Namibia is after all, a desert country. And this is the Autumn issue. But that is exactly the allure of Namibia and always has been. In an interview with Travel News Namibia, Wilfried Sentefol, MD of the oldest tour operating family business in Namibia, confirmed that the diversity of landscape and culture is what entices visitors to come back for a second and third visit since those early days of organised tourism. When he shared the album of the first commercial safaris with us, I almost felt cheated that nowadays it only takes one overnight flight from Europe to get here. Let alone the real adventure of those early expeditions. What I find most fascinating is that the Arts Association of Namibia organised the first such safari in 1954. Why the Arts Association? The guide was a young Namibian artist, Dieter Aschenborn, who became famous later in his life. For decades after those photos on page 39 were taken, most foreign tourists visited Namibia in the driest months and even us Namibians travelled mostly during the winter, an inveterate practice that took years and a concerted marketing effort to change. Namibia is most definitely a year-round destination. If you were visiting in February, you could have been at Okonjima and might have seen the leopard against a green backdrop, or the lilies in full bloom near Maltahöhe in the deep south. That is the magic of Namibia. You have never seen it all. Which is probably true for many destinations, but not all make it so easy to explore. For travellers who love wild places, Namibia must be the ultimate choice, because of the variety of landscapes, seasons and accessibility. You just need to look at Annabelle Venter’s photos on page 62 to appreciate that the best photo opportunity presents itself wherever you set up your tripod regardless of season. The fine print, which Annabelle wrote about in a previous edition, is that some hours of the day are just more magic than others. Travelling the same route at different times of the day may offer photo opportunities as varied as those between summer and winter. We say goodbye to Albi Brückner, who died in the summer. His vision and passion resulted in a model for private sector conservation of large landscapes, as Ginger Mauney so eloquently puts it in a tribute on page 16. If you are in Namibia now, enjoy the result of the rain in February and the magical sunsets enhanced by autumn clouds, which you are bound to see.
Rièth van Schalkwyk
Rièth and her tree (see page 24)
TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA AUTUMN 2017
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©Paul van Schalkwyk Photography
Adventure awaits
JOIN SCENIC AIR FOR FLEXIBLE, PERSONAL CHARTERS CATERED TO YOUR SPECIFIC NEEDS! Windhoek Office: Tel: +264 61 249 268 Email: windhoek@scenic-air.com
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Auas Safari Lodge
Hobatere Lodge
Hoada Campsite
Fishriver Lodge
Grootberg Lodge
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CONTENTS
AUTUMN 2017 10 WHAT’S NEW(S)? Changing with the times 16 HE TORE DOWN BOUNDARIES A tribute to Albi Brückner 20 SEVEN WORLDS IN SEVEN DAYS The Naturally Namibia Experience
28 BIRDING WITH POMPIE The Critically Endangered 36 TI MELEN The African Castle in the Capital 38 A TOURISM REVERIE The History of SWA Safaris 40 CONSERVANCY SIDE-TRACKS Overlooked Riches: The floral diversity of Kaoko
44 DESTINATION SWAKOPMUND More ways to spend the days 52 THE MEMORY OF PLACES The history of Namibia Wildlife Resort establishments
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CONTENTS
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56 RARE SPECIES REDISCOVERED Raphionacme haeneliae 62 PHOTOGRAPHY FEATURE Celebrating the Seasons with Annabelle Venter
70 TAKE A BREAK On the Road between Windhoek and Rundu
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76 ADVENTURE WITH CYMOT The ultimate Namibian camping photo competition
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AIR NAMIBIA
signs code-share agreement with Turkish Airlines
Air Namibia and Turkish Airlines have signed a code-share agreement, effective since 1 March 2017. This agreement is bound to broaden the commercial partnership between Turkey and Namibia. Passengers of both airlines will be given more travel options between the two countries. The signing ceremony took place at Turkish Airlines’ headquarters in Istanbul. Namibia’s Deputy Minister of Works & Transport, Sankwasa James Sankwasa, and Turkish Airlines’ Deputy Chairman and CEO, Bilal Eksi, signed the deal. Under the terms of the agreement, Air Namibia and Turkish Airlines are planning to share codes on unilateral Air Namibia flights on the Windhoek–Johannesburg and the Windhoek–Frankfurt routes, and on unilateral Turkish Airlines flights on the Istanbul–Johannesburg and the Istanbul–Frankfurt routes. When Air Namibia introduces Windhoek–Istanbul flights at some stage in the future, the code-share agreement will be expanded by sharing codes on flights beyond Istanbul.
WHAT’S NEW(S)? Compiled by Sanet van Zijl
WB Cruise Introduces
NAMIBIA’S FIRST DINNER CRUISE VESSEL Much like life, a trip with WB Cruise is all about the journey. Board the Cynthia at the Walvis Bay Waterfront and take in the scenic surroundings while being treated to a world-class three-course meal. The vessel sets sail from the Waterfront for a trip to Pelican Point and back to its mooring site. The floating restaurant can seat up to 80 guests. A dinner cruise is offered every Friday and Saturday evening, sailing at 6pm and returning at 10pm. The Lunch Cruise sets sail daily from 11am to 3pm. The layout makes the vessel a perfect venue for weddings, corporate dinners, conferences and whatever else you can imagine. For private events any menu can be prepared at the request of the client.
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WHAT’S NEW(S)?
ONGUMA ONKOLO HIDE
NOW OPEN
Onguma Game Reserve is a privately-owned nature reserve on the eastern border of Etosha National Park. Onguma's new water-level hide affords guests a convenient opportunity to calmly sit and enjoy nature unnoticed. Amateur and professional photographers alike love the angles and light from this hide. There is a small ablution facility nearby, benches from which to view the surroundings and lots of windows and vantage points for creative camera angles. The Onguma Reserve boasts over thirty different animal species. Plains game roams freely on the reserve and predators, although not easy to spot, are nevertheless common residents of the area. Lions are frequently seen and often heard, and so are hyenas. There is a healthy black rhino and leopard population. More than 300 bird species can be viewed at Onguma. The reserve boasts the biggest breeding colony of white-backed vultures in Namibia and this part of the country has been identified as one of the key bird watching sites in Southern Africa. To accommodate growing interest in birds, the Onkolo Hide, situated at an active waterhole, affords guests the opportunity to capture bird and animal activity at ground level. For more information visit www.onguma.com.
Ondili launches
DESERT HOMESTEAD OUTPOST Formerly known as Kulala Wilderness Camp, Desert Homestead Outpost reopened in late November 2016 after extensive renovations. Desert Homestead Outpost is situated 30 km southeast of Sesriem, the entrance to Namib-Naukluft National Park, on a private nature reserve bordering the Namib Sand Sea, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the ideal starting point for trips to Sossusvlei, Dead Vlei and Sesriem Canyon. Other activities offered by the lodge are horse safaris, scenic drives and the Namib Mountain Trail, a guided walk from Desert Homestead Lodge to Desert Homestead Outpost. Hot air balloon rides in the area can be arranged with Namib Sky Balloon Safaris. Nestled against the western side of the Naukluft Mountains, guests can enjoy a magnificent panoramic view over the expansive open plains. The lodge offers an exclusive suite and 11 thatch-roofed comfortable and cosy chalets. The unique location in the vast nature reserve guarantees peace and tranquillity. For more information visit www.ondili.de.
WINDHOEK RIVERWALK INITIATIVE
Emily Kandanga
The Riverwalk Route is primed to bring about positive change to the communities through which the walkway is set to run. At a talk held in February at the Namibia Scientific Society, the Namibia Environment & Wildlife Society (NEWS) gave eager community members a detailed brief on what this initiative hopes to achieve. The Riverwalk Project is aimed at facilitating the improvement of socio-economic life in Windhoek through the rehabilitation of several river courses, which in turn is expected to open doors for additional development opportunities in the city. Windhoek has over 200 hectares of river courses that are virtually unused. The Riverwalk Project proposes to create a walkway from Goreangab to Avis Dam along the rivers, with activity nodes in strategic places. The community nodes, equipped with Wi-Fi, park benches and water points, will serve as hubs for various activities such as outdoor body building gyms, for example. Some of the economic benefits highlighted in the talk were job and income creation in tourism, hospitality, construction, security, health & fitness and retail. A grave concern among those present at the talk was safety along the walkway. The committee explained that by cleaning up around the rivers and increasing visibility by clearing brush, communities would experience less crime. The presence of more people active in those areas would also deter crime. The social benefits of the project were highlighted as well: the Riverwalk is intended to become a community space where people can connect, exchange ideas, de-stress, share experiences and take their family and friends. The project is fully supported by the City of Windhoek and has the potential to unite communities, grow current businesses and develop new ones and put the city’s riverbeds to good use. Visit their Facebook page to stay informed.
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WHAT’S NEW(S)?
NAMIBIA TOURISM BOARD LAUNCHES NAMIBIA IN A DAY CAMPAIGN The Namibia Tourism Board (NTB) has launched its “Namibia in a Day” initiative, a new campaign that aims to entice locals to travel more inside the country and explore the activities available in and around various cities and towns. In line with its mission to market and develop tourism to and in Namibia, and as the agency tasked with ensuring growth in the Namibian tourism sector, the NTB believes that “Namibia in a Day” will help to positively influence the population’s perception of local tourism products and highlight the beauty of Namibia. According to the NTB a distinct opportunity exists for Namibians to also add their own flavours of fun to what the country has to offer in the form of activities, tastes, sights and sounds.
The campaign revolves around an interactive quiz game which, through a series of fun questions, finds out what personality you have and what you like. It then comes up with the activity, place of interest or top tip for you, based on who you are and the most relevant choice. The idea came from a realisation that apart from attractions such as Etosha National Park, Sossusvlei and the Fish River Canyon, a need exists for a platform on which Namibians can find and showcase their own ‘special’ ways of enjoying the country on or off the beaten track, whether it’s sitting down for a local feast in their village, finding a new walking or cycling route in Windhoek or community-based tours of the informal settlements. NTB also hopes that by exploring what the country has to offer, Namibians will not only realise the potential for adventure and fun in their country but also share their own favourites to allow others a chance to experience these ‘hidden gems’. The quiz game “Namibia in a Day, Proudest Picks” refers to the choice of activities around the country. The campaign is mostly digitally driven and anyone anywhere in the country can take part. Take the quiz at www.namibiatourism.com.na.
TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA AUTUMN 2017
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All Roads Lead to
Nambwa Tented Lodge is located in the Eastern Zambezi Region of Namibia along the Kwando River. It is the only lodge uniquely situated inside the Bwatwata National Park, in the heart of the KAZA and is nestled high amongst majestic trees, honouring the elephants’ right of way below. An authentic walkway joins decadently spacious tented suites, which emanate a feeling of vastness and evoke a gentle balance of serenity. Nambwa can be ideally packaged with Botswana, Zimbabwe and Zambia., with daily flights from Johannesburg & Cape Town to Vic Falls (Zimbabawe), Livingstone (Zambia), Kasane (Botswana) and 4 Flights a week from Windhoek to Katima. Air Charters or Road transfers are available from all airports. Vic Falls/Livingstone to Nambwa – 4 to 5 hours. Kasane to Nambwa – 3 to 3.5 hours. Katima to Nambwa – 1.5 hours.
+264 81 125 2122 | +264 61 400 510 marketing@africanmonarchlodges.com | reservations@africanmonarchlodges.com
www.africanmonarchlodges.com
HE TORE DOWN BOUNDARIES
A tribute to Albi Brückner Text Ginger Mauney
A
long the dirt roads that wind their way through the Namib Desert, there are subtle signs of change. These signs read “No Fences.” They indicate areas where fences have been taken down to allow for the free movement of wildlife and the integration of land back to its natural whole. The significance of these signs is so self-evident that we are forced to pause and recognize that it hasn’t always been this way. There were obstacles, barriers to movement, limits to cohesion that had to be forcibly overcome.
14 August 1930 – 08 December 2016
Wolwedans Dunes Lodge
These signs, their message and their effectiveness, are as understated and important as the man behind them, the late J.A. (Albi) Brückner. An astute businessman and a keen conservationist, who served on the Board of the Desert Research Foundation of Namibia (DRFN) and the Chairman of the Namibia Nature Foundation (NNF), Albi’s connection to the Namib Desert has become part of desert folklore. In 1984 he purchased the Farm Gorassis for the price of a Volkswagen Beetle. The land was overgrazed, sheep farming throughout the south was in a decline and wildlife had been shot out, so where others saw the chance to sell and get out, Albi saw the opportunity to stake a claim not only to the land, but also to the future. He purchased another farm and then another, and by the mid-1990s, he had established his vision for a private nature reserve where fences would be removed, water points restored and wildlife would return to the land that it is so well adapted to inhabit. Local and international investors were inspired to purchase and connect more farms into the mosaic that formed NamibRand Nature Reserve. For Albi, life was always about tearing down boundaries. This desire may have been ingrained in him when he was a child, growing up in war-torn Prussia where he learned to be both firm and open-minded.
andBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge
In his teens Albi returned to Namibia, the country of his birth. Prior to Namibia’s independence he was among a group of Namibian businessmen who met with Sam Nujoma, then the leader of the opposition resistance party, SWAPO. Afterwards, some members of the business community rejected Albi and his efforts to understand Nujoma, but for him the meeting was another way of tearing down fences. When he was 60 years old, Albi’s commitment to the environment culminated in this boldest move yet, the purchase of 100,000 hectares of land adjoining NamibRand. “This put him under enormous financial pressure,” says Stephan Brückner, Albi’s youngest son and the driving force behind Wolwedans, a series of high value, low impact tourism lodges on NamibRand. “But it was never about the money. It was always about the land, about leaving a legacy for future generations.” The colours of the desert and the sheer sense of space always captivated Albi. Whenever he got the chance, he left Windhoek to explore NamibRand, visiting every corner of the property and often returning to the Farm Gorassis where it all began. Albi’s impact on conservation in Namibia was both immediate, through DRFN and NNF, and sustained due to the land he helped to conserve and the people from nearby and around the world that he inspired.
“I believe that my father wanted to inspire people to do more, to give more, whether it was to conservation or socially. He believed in growing old with a purpose,” Stephan says. For more than 30 years that purpose was NamibRand. By combining farms to re-establish the integrity of an eco-system and using sustainable tourism to pay for the long-term preservation of the land, NamibRand became an international model for private sector conservation of large landscapes and for its contribution of the unique and fragile Pro-Namib ecosystem. “My father’s biggest hope for the future was that NamibRand would continue as is, that through our tourism model the land would be sustainable and that greed would not interfere. NamibRand has a sound constitution and structure, so he left knowing that it is in good hands for generations to come,” says Stephan Brückner. NamibRand was Albi’s inspiration and his solace. When his wife of 55 years passed away, he found peace in the desert, and now they lie side by side in a fairy circle, the perfect place for one who gave so much to conserve the space, the integrity and the mystery of the desert. TNN
WHAT FOLLOWED HIS VISION: With a generosity of space and spirit, the late Albi Brückner’s vision for NamibRand inspired new initiatives that support conservation, our visceral need for wild places and the future of our planet. They include: Tourism concessions – NamibRand is an internationally renowned model for using low-impact, high-quality ecotourism to support conservation. Tourism concessions pay a daily, per-bed fee to the reserve, generating funds that enable NamibRand to be financially selfsustaining. The vast space is dotted with a selection of unique accommodation options and activities with guaranteed privacy and respect for the environment. They include the Wolwedans Collection (Wolwedans Dunes Lodge, Mountain View Suite, Boulders Safari Camp, Dune Camp and Private Camp), andBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge, Namib Sky Balloon Safaris, Tok Tokkie Trails Namibia and the NamibRand Family Hideout. Adopt a Fairy Circle – For those wishing to share in the mystery of the Namib Desert, Wolwedans has come up with the innovative ‘adopt-afairy-circle’ concept, which encourages nature lovers to ‘adopt’ one of the thousands of fairy circles that dot the landscape. One hundred percent of the funds collected from the adopt-a-fairy-circle programme go to the NamibRand Conservation Foundation (NRCF), which supports conservation and environmental education projects on the reserve. The International Dark Sky Programme – The magic of the Namib is everywhere and it shines most brightly at night, when the Milky Way expands and the Southern Cross appears in the night sky. Recognizing the importance of the dark sky to animal behaviour and the delight of its guests, NamibRand instituted a light management programme that reduced the number of exterior lights, shielded the few remaining lights and undertakes a light audit each year. On 24 May 2012, NamibRand was recognized by the International Dark Sky Association as an International Dark Sky Reserve, the first of its kind in Africa and the first to be given a Gold Tier award as one of the darkest places on earth. Namib Desert Environmental Education Trust (NaDEET) – Located in the southern part of NamibRand Nature Reserve, the NaDEET Centre is an example of sustainability and environmental education in action. Since its founding in 2003, NaDEET has provided more than 10,000 children and adult Namibian participants with the opportunity to learn first-hand about sustainable living, biodiversity and the balance between humans and the environment. Namibian Institute of Culinary Education (NICE) – Recognising that growth in the tourism industry in Namibia and the expectations of discerning guests need to be aligned, NICE and the Wolwedans Desert Academy work together on a joint finishing and training programme for chefs that exposes trainees to both lodge and city based hospitality and restaurant operations, while providing a balance of theoretical and practical exposure to ensure that all graduates are ‘employment ready’ at the end of the programme of their choice.
TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA AUTUMN 2017
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7worlds
in seven days
Text and photographs Elzanne Erasmus
Namibia, the land of many landscapes. Of many faces and different places. Each panorama different from the next. From desert to thick bush wilderness areas. From mountainous rocky ranges to expansive savannah grasslands. This land has an endless supply of contrasts. Travel News Namibia’s team member Elzanne Erasmus recently discovered this first hand. She embarked on an expedition to visit each accommodation establishment in the Naturally Namibia family, all in one week! Naturally Namibia is a proudly Namibian tourism marketing company that represents a number of owner-run establishments and tourism businesses. The lodges and experiences in this Naturally Namibia circuit are spread across the country. TNN discovered that following this route is like travelling across universes, across worlds! Each part of Namibia is more beautiful than the next. This‌ is the Naturally Namibia Experience. TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA AUTUMN 2017
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The Spitzkoppe is a delightful sight just west of Usakos.
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Koolis admires the sunrise view from atop a boulder at Erongo Wilderness Lodge.
The Ugab River near Omaruru in full flood for the first time in many years.
FROM COAST TO CRAG My adventure started in the sleepy and enigmatic coastal town of Swakopmund. Here, near the town centre, a quaint yellow historical house sits on a street corner. Amongst all the beauty of the town’s German colonial architecture, Villa Margherita is my favourite. The white trimmings on the building’s visage lend itself to the bygone era it reminisces on. Inside, you’ll find the warmth and luxury of home, smiling faces, fireplaces and the relaxed ambiance of this charming boutique hotel. A short walk away lie the town centre, the Mole and a myriad of restaurants, adventure outposts and shopping locations. From the coast I departed on what was to become an almost surreal week of jumping from one universe to another. About 240 km eastwards, nestled amongst giant boulders not far from the lovely town of Omaruru, lies Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Between rocky outcrops a flurry of life exists in this natural haven. Lizards scurry across hot stone faces, and the near-endemic Rosy-faced Lovebird twitters in trees overhead. They serenade their partners. The fresh blooms and bursts of green in the surrounding bush a colourful reminder of recent rains. As the sun rises, the red rocks of the Erongo landscape catch fire, the first light glistening on the surface of the Omaruru River nearby as it carves its path through the landscape. In full flood for the first time in many years.
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From the privacy of my room huddled against a rocky mountain bluff: a stunning vista. During afternoon tea at the lodge’s main area I admire an abundance of birds make use of a pond, splashing about and frolicking in the much-missed water. I love the expression so often used here in Namibia: A thankful land. After a long period of drought, recent rains have made this semi-arid country sprout proudly with life. So thankful is the soil for even a small pittance of water that it erupts into green delight soon after the first rains have fallen. In the late afternoon my fellow guests and I, accompanied by our knowledgeable guide Koolis, depart on an afternoon nature drive. Steenbok and the delightful Damara dik-dik come out to make our acquaintance. The tiny dik-dik lamb is barely tall enough to see over the growth in which his mother has hidden him. A short trek up a rocky crag takes us to Paula’s Cave where we gaze in wonder at the 2 000 yearold rock paintings left behind by the San. Koolis and I set off on an early morning hike along one of the many trails in the wilderness surrounding the lodge. As the sun rises over the horizon we ascend a steep rock face, startling a baboon family. Breath-taking. That is the only linguistic equivalent to the grandeur of the view from atop this precipice. The Erongo landscape stretching as far as the eye can see. A stunning, otherworldly view.
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NEW HUES AND POSITIVE ENERGY CUES As I head northwest, the landscape’s colour palette changes from hues of bright green to a soft red. Travelling along gravel backroads the view astounds, more often than not. The mighty Brandberg, Namibia’s tallest mountain, comes slowly into view. I pass roadside craft markets and small stalls where locals sell their wares and wonder how they make a living out here in the middle of what seems an awful lot like nowhere. As I pass over the Ugab River my eyes wander hopefully. This is a popular haunt of desert-adapted elephant, but they must be further up or downstream right now. Just north of the Palmwag veterinary gate a vehicle and guides await my arrival. Soon we are bobbing along the trail across the rugged terrain that will take us to my destination. The rust-coloured rocky landscape is dotted with green - Euphorbia Damarana. Food to some, poison to others. The dark, cloudy skies make it all seem somewhat ethereal. Until the sun's mighty rays slip through the cracks and ignite the red magma rocks. Lying almost unseen amidst this beautiful landscape is the stunning Etendeka Mountain Camp. I almost immediately set off on another adventure. Following Boas along narrow game tracks we explore the area around the lodge on foot. Lion tracks, scorpions, Hartmann’s mountain zebra, springbok and giraffe ensure an interesting
excursion. I’m also introduced to a Kaokoveld Namib Day Gecko, a species I have never had the pleasure of meeting before. Boas assures me that he is a special little endemic creature and I treasure the moment. A hike up a hilltop reveals a magnificent vista. Our 360-degree view of the rough land is awe-inspiring. Here we sit and watch the sun descend beyond the skyline, sipping an ice-cold Windhoek Lager, camera shutter snapping away. One last stop takes us up a mountainside at sunrise. Atop this escarpment the earth begins to flicker with exciting new colours and textures. The red and brown template of the surroundings is interrupted by bright white and green crystals glistening in the early morning sun. Our “crystal walk” explores these different geological marvels, and according to Boas who has hosted a number of crystal fundies, we are absorbing fields of wonderful positive energy from this prolific mineral earth.
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FROM RED ROCK VALLEY TO GREAT WHITE PLACE My route turned eastward once more as I made my way from Palmwag up the Grootberg Pass. Somewhere between the summit of the pass and Kamanjab stands my colleague Rièth’s favourite tree. And no, not just her favourite type of tree, literally her favourite tree. A Sterculia Quinqueloba, or Largeleaved Sterculia. Having passed by it a few times before and never catching the right “golden hour” light we have previously
The Brandberg, Namibia's tallest mountain
Visit the Enethe Craft Centre on the southern bank of the Ugab River along the D2319.
Boas admires the Damaraland vista from a
hilltop overlooking Etendeka Mountain Camp.
Euphorbia virosa
TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA AUTUMN 2017
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Sterculia Quinqueloba
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Lion cubs at Ongave Private Game Reserve
been disappointed by our pictures, never able to show others quite how awesome-looking this specific tree is. This time around I abruptly slam on the breaks, causing dust to spew all around the car. The light is perfect, the tree even more so. Suffice it to say that this is now my favourite tree, too. Rièth… you’ve finally convinced me. Kamanjab, a small town en route, is a quaint stopover. Blink and you’ll miss it! Here you’ll find filling stations (there are now two!), a well-stocked shop for groceries and the like (I even once found Starbuck’s Frappuccino in the fridge) and an adorable new coffee/snack shop by the puzzling name of “Atatatatatata”… Another 156 km east is Outjo. I highly recommend the Outjo Bakery for a quick lunch. My next destination lay an hour north of Outjo. Ongava Lodge sits atop a hill overlooking a waterhole and the mopane wilderness at its feet. On an afternoon game drive my shutter was going off like a strobe light. All the while I was thinking how no one would believe I took these photographs on a private game reserve just south of Etosha. It was too green. These lions were too close. Their wet fur made them appear as if they had just strolled out of a tropical jungle. It's amazing what some much needed water can do to this thirsty land. Summer rains have left Etosha National Park and the areas on its peripheries bursting with life. At Ongava the lions and countless other fauna are a wonder to behold... even if they are slightly harder to find during the wet season. Abnor and I see lionesses chase a herd of giraffe across an open plain. After taking a turn through thick bush we come upon another small pride, young cubs playfully rolling over one another, mothers looking on, completely relaxed. We drink our sundowners a few metres away from two gentle horned giants, casually grazing on the fresh green foliage.
5 6 SUMMER STORMS, A WET SALTPAN AND ABSOLUTE SERENITY
FROM THE JEWEL IN THE CROWN TO A SANCTUARY FOR NATURE
Etosha is wet. Green grass, nebrownii bushes bursting with yellow blooms and more water in the pan than I have seen in a very long time. The jewel in the crown of Namibia, as it is fondly called: Etosha National Park is Namibia’s most popular tourist destination. An absolute must-visit on every traveller’s list, it is teeming with wildlife and the massive salt pan can be seen from space! I spent the entire day gallivanting along all the roads between Okaukuejo and Namutoni (the park’s two main camps), visiting all my favourite waterholes (such as Okondeka, Nebrowni, Salvadora and Chudop). Rain means that not too many animals depend on the waterholes though, so my journey through the park was less eventful, but I still marvelled at the beauty of this place. And seeing so much water in the pan made me giddy with excitement.
About 72 km south of Otjiwarongo a sanctuary stretches across more than 22 000 hectares. Home to wildlife abundant and a large concentration of carnivores, this is a place born of passion for conservation. Okonjima, meaning ‘place of baboons’ in Ovaherero, is a private nature reserve that plays host to stunning accommodation facilities, including Okonjima Bush Camp, Plains Camp, a private Bush Suite and a Grand African Villa, as well as the AfriCat Foundation, an education and research-based welfare organization committed to the conservation of Namibia’s large carnivores.
Serenity. That’s the word that comes to mind when I find myself lucky enough to be sitting at Mushara Bush Camp that evening, glass of wine in hand. Light summer rain drizzles around me. Muted light and the most beautiful interior design add to the leisure. After a long day driving through a wet and green Etosha, there is nothing quite as wonderful as unwinding. A quiet peaceful tranquillity seeps into my bones and I wish I could stay right here forever. If I could stay a little longer my content lethargy would not persist for too long though. The jewel in Namibia’s crown is on Mushara’s doorstep, teeming with wildlife. I’d be exploring the park further at first light if my next destination didn’t lie south…
I was lucky enough to indulge in not one but two separate leopard tracking expeditions on my visit. With my guide Rohan at the helm, and a handy helper in the form of a radio collar-tracking device, we tracked, observed and marvelled at large spotted felines as they went about their day. Nkosi rises from his nap in the tall grass and I have a split second to capture his gruff expression. Then he’s off again, ambling down the dry riverbed, not paying us much mind, but neither sticking around to humour us. On the drive back to the beautiful lodge, a setting sun as the backdrop, a brown hyena crosses our path and then proceeds to lead the way, jogging down the track in front of us before eventually slipping into the encroaching shadows. What a sundowner indeed! An enchanting visit to the night hide after dinner marks my first close-up encounter
Cattle Egret in Etosha
Recent rains have left Etosha National Park wet and green
with a porcupine… Rohan and I walk through thick acacia bush the next morning, ducking and weaving through protruding branches. Sidestepping fallen trees and enormous spider webs. The encouraging ‘beep beep beep’ of the tracker is the soundtrack of our anticipation. And then we find them, three cheetahs resting in the shade of the thick brush, relaxed as can be. They peer at us and we eye them back, an unspoken tête-à-tête. My photographer heart has found its happy place. This 6th world on my trip is a refuge for wonderful wild creatures, and the passion and enthusiasm with which this haven is managed and operated makes for an even more enthralling experience.
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FROM HAVEN TO HUB Finally, after a week of exploration, I make my way south to the capital of this country with many faces. In Windhoek, feet up and head back, I lounge on the veranda at the Olive Exclusive. I sip my glass of champagne, celebrating my feat of navigating what feels like universes, all within a week! I think back to the smell of the ocean breeze and the hue of giant boulders catching fire in the sunlight. I remember the view across rugged Damaraland and looking a lioness in the eyes. I recall relaxing and listening to the sound of summer rains from a serene perch and I once again marvel at seeing large carnivores navigating their homeland. Namibia, in all its natural glory is unlike any other place on earth. I can’t wait to explore it all over again! TNN
NAMIB SKY BALLOON SAFARIS
Cheetah tracking on foot at Okonjima
is Namibia’s premier ballooning safari company! Floating over the gigantic red dunes of Namib Naukluft Park is one of the most breath-taking experiences. Explore the oldest desert on earth and marvels such as Sossusvlei and desert wildlife from this extraordinary vantage point. Be sure to add this epic Naturally Namibia experience to your tour plans.
The Cape ground squirrel is an inquisitive creature
SKELETON COAST SAFARIS
FROM TOP:
A curoius bat-eared fox
Touring with Skeleton Coast Safaris is a monumental way to discover the mysteries of Namibia’s famous Skeleton Coast National Park. Join a fully inclusive fly-in safari of 4 or 5 days. Discover shipwrecks, mysterious geological formations and vast uninhabited landscapes in this desolate and hard-to-reach area of Namibia.
DID YOU KNOW? Ai Aiba – The Rock Painting Lodge is the newest addition to the Naturally Namibia family. This is another great stopover in the Erongo region, ideally infused between your visit to Erongo Wilderness Lodge and Etendeka Mountain Camp on the Naturally Namibia circuit. Book your Naturally Namibia experience by visiting www.naturallynamibia.com.
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This is a collective of Namibia’s most character-filled independent experiences.
This is a celebration of African individuality. This is...
www.naturallynamibia.com
CRITICALLY ENDANGERED - not extinct (yet) Text and photographs Pompie Burger
If you ever thought endangered species have problems, you ain’t seen nothing yet (if this sounds American, well it is as big as the U.S.A. Trump card). We are indeed in the process of cutting off the wings of these birds, and no, we are not talking Penguins.
Grey Crowned Crane (Balearica regulorum)
Any religion or philosophy which is not based on a respect for life is not a true religion. - Albert Schweitzer -
Pel's Fishing Owl (Scotopelia peli)
O
f the nine critically endangered birds, I had the wonderful opportunity to tick five of them in my short and illustrious career as a birder and bird photographer. Looking at the remaining four birds I think I will have to do some traveling and boating to increase my hit list. The Black-cheeked Lovebird (Agapornis nigrigenis) is probably the most likely bird to tick, because a short trip across the Zambian border, with the help of Katy Sharp of Tutwa Tours, there is a very good chance of increasing my list to six. Apparently these lovebirds used to occur in the Zambezi Region, but unfortunately this is not the case anymore. If you do see one of them in the Zambezi, well done! The main reason for their decline is funnily enough because of humans! Parrot trade has become a massive industry in our time and subsequently a serious problem. The sooner we (world
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leaders?) realise it and do something about it, the better. The good news is that waterholes or troughs for cattle and growing millet may increase the numbers again and encourage the return of these lovely birds to the north. As for my favourite bird, the Pell’s Fishing Owl (Scotopelia peli): with a total population in southern Africa of less than 500 pairs, Namibia is unlikely to have more than 45 pairs. Their favourite roosting tree is the mangosteen (Bob Marley tree), so your best bet trying to find one will be to listen to the music. An even better option is to try and find somebody who knows where they roost. The main reason for their decline is degradation of riparian woodland. If you have not seen one of these owls yet you are in good company. Again, a short crossborder trip to Drotsky’s Cabins will be a good start.
BIRDING WITH POMPIE
Blue Crane (Grus paradisea) The Blue Crane (Grus paradisea) is a bit of an enigma in Namibia. Only about 12 pairs still occur in the country, with the most constant population in Etosha. A certain spot is the Salvadora waterhole, but the Andoni gravel pit and the area west of Namutoni are also good options. Interestingly the largest congregations are found during the dry season, an indication that a large number of the birds move elsewhere to breed. Contrary to this theory the pair at Salvadora has again raised a chick this summer (2017) and has stayed over for the season. The largest other populations in southern Africa are in the south-eastern Cape. None of the Namibian sub-group has ever been recorded to move to those areas (this is probably purely political). The big threats to the Namibian population are genetic isolation, human encroachment and water availability.
The reason why Cape Vultures (Gyps coprotheres) still occur in Namibia is not because of all the Stormers supporters in the country. Apparently Cape Vultures used to be quite common, with a population which almost matched that of the Lappet-face Vultures. The big culprits in their decline are poisoning, traditional use and electrocution by power lines, as with all vultures. Currently the only breeding colony is found in and around the Waterberg area. Liz Komen from NARREC is doing her best to raise awareness among farming communities of their importance. Maria Dickman has also done a lot of work for the Cape Vultures, especially resettling them in the Otjiwarongo area.
Blue Crane (Grus paradisea)
Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus)
The biggest misnomer in the ornithological community is probably the Grey Crowned Crane (Balearica regulorum). If ever you have seen one, you will agree that this beautiful bird deserves a much more impressive name than Grey Crowned Crane. This one was probably given by someone sitting in a grey office with a grey suit, and a grey wife and grey children at home. If I looked like one of these beauties, I would probably also have moved on to where people can appreciate my beauty and give me an appropriate name. The grasslands north of Etosha (it is not inside, it’s on top) have the only population known in Namibia. The last observation was between 2007 and 2014 with only four birds recorded. To be quite honest, my only sighting was outside Namibia at Kafue in Zambia.
Verlies
Elke spoor
Wat ek verloor Laat my met
Een minder oor. -Koos du Plessis-
Grey Crowned Crane (Balearica regulorum)
If this sounds a bit arrogant please forgive me, but I am probably one of a rather selected few living specimens who have seen an Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus) in Namibia. Obviously, I was at that moment not aware that I was on the verge of becoming famous, but luckily I took a picture and showed it to Chris Brown who advanced me from being an ordinary birder to becoming a world famous ornithologist. This was an immature bird which fits in with previous sightings. My location of glory was in Mahango Game Park and I have the T-shirt/picture to prove it (there are rumours that they will soon erect a statue of me alongside an Egyptian Vulture in the park). As is the case with all vultures, their decline is mainly a result of poisoning. Because they use stones to break other birds’ eggs to eat, it might be that their extinction is the result of a lack of stones in the north.
BIRDING WITH POMPIE Unfortunately, apart from the Black-faced Lovebirds, this is the end of my contribution to seeing any of the critically endangered species. The other three species that I still have to find (see wish list) are the Eurasian Bittern (Botauris stellaris), Tristan Albatross (Deomedia dabbenena) and the Greater Crested Grebe (Podiceps cristata). As far as the Tristan Albatross is concerned, my chance of ever seeing one would be that somebody invited me to Tristan da Cunha or Gough Island where well over 1700 pairs still occur (again outside Namibian waters). The Greater Crested Grebe were reported at Mile 4 salt works near Swakopmund and Walvis Bay sewage works, so if they are still around it seems that nobody gives a damn about their dilemma. I think I might have seen one way back in the eighties at the sewage works, but then again you can never count on my unreliable memory and identification skills. The Eurasian Bittern is apparently easier found by its booming call than by seeing it. There are about 100 left in the swamp areas along the Zambezi. Looking through the list and the places where I saw these endangered species, it is no surprise that they are indeed becoming extinct in Namibia. The sadness that remains is that all of this could have been prevented if it was not for human intervention. Hopefully this trend will not continue and the list of critically endangered birds does not become part of the extinct species list, or even worse, the list of birds increases. Looking at the efforts by our conservationists and government I still think (hope) that we can turn this trend around in time. TNN
BIBLIOGRAPHY: Special thanks for the information I got from Birds to Watch in Namibia by Simmons, Brown and Kemper
Cape Vulture (Gyps coprotheres)
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C O N S I D E R YO U R S E L F I N V I T E D When last have you allowed yourself to be overwhelmed? Not by a little more than what you’re used to, but by the extraordinary, by a surplus of untouched beauty, by something you’ll most definitely never ever see again. Experience phenomenal luxury on the doorstep of raw nature in front of your very own private villa.
Central Reservations: +264 61 431 8002 • Lodge Direct : +264 66 253 602 • www.chobewatervillas.com
TI MELEN
THE AFRICAN CASTLE IN THE CAPITAL Text and photographs Elzanne Erasmus
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estled against a hillside on the eastern outskirts of the capital, there’s a little yellow castle. From the outside it appears to be reminiscent of something you’d find in a European countryside. When you pass through the front door though, all similarities with the northern continent fade away and you are met by the style and ambiance of an African bush safari. Patterns and textures, sculptures and ornaments. You might think you’ve delved into a turn of the century colonial African outpost. Here, at this hillside would-be castle, a natural haven takes the form of one of Windhoek’s quaintest, and most enigmatic, guesthouses. A peaceful retreat from the bustling urban sprawl.
A ROSE BY ANY OTHER NAME The aptly named Ti Melen, which is Breton for “yellow house”, was built in the 1960s. Today, the picturesque and peaceful house serves as a getaway on the outskirts of Namibia’s capital and busiest city. Ti Melen is the perfect stopover for your first or last night on a tour through the country. It can also serve as a wonderful home away from home for
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those looking to stay a bit longer, whether for business trips or extended visits to Windhoek. Only five minutes from Windhoek’s city centre and 30 minutes away from Hosea Kutako International Airport, Ti Melen is ideally located in Windhoek’s Avis neighbourhood. Avis Dam is a short 5-minute walk from the guesthouse. Here, visitors can enjoy nature walks, running and mountain-biking trails and hiking, as well as some spectacular birding opportunities.
LITTLE YELLOW BIRDS AT THE YELLOW HOUSE The Southern Masked Weaver (Ploceus velatus) is a fairly widespread bird. The bright yellow plume of the male weaver is a common sight in and around Windhoek. During the breeding months of September to January you will find these fellows feverishly constructing a colony of nests. A male Southern Masked Weaver can build up to 25 nests in a season. The nests are woven from grass blades, palm fronds and long leaves or reeds. Keep your eyes peeled for their architectural masterpieces, often found in the acacia trees in and around the garden at Ti Melen. Avis Dam is a popular birding spot in the
city, especially when good rains have allowed water to collect in the often dry dam. Take a look at our “Wings to watch for” list to see which lifers to tick off on your visit!
ESCAPE, EXPLORE, ENJOY With a stunning view from its perch atop the hillside, Ti Melen is a wonderful choice for your next stay in Windhoek. Let manager Elizabeth welcome you with open arms to this warm and friendly African castle, which you’ll find will feel more like home than anywhere you’ve stayed of late! TNN
WINGS TO WATCH FOR AT AVIS DAM: Sanet van Zijl
This list was compiled by Pompie Burger, TNN’s resident birder extraordinaire. Pompie has noted that at a bird count some years ago, over 100 birds were identified in a single day… Tick away! • Kalahari Scrub-Robin • Short-toed Rock-Thrush • Monteiro’s Hornbill • White-tailed Shrike • Grey Go-away-bird • Ashy Tit • Diederik Cuckoo • Great Spotted Cuckoo • Black Cuckoo • Black Heron • Black Stork • Great Egret • African Spoonbill • Three-banded Plover • Grey Heron • Egyptian Goose • Blacksmith Lapwing • Mountain Wheatear • Rockrunner • Acacia Pied Barbet • African Fish Eagle • Crimson-breasted Shrike • Marico Flycatcher • Lilac-breasted Roller • Southern Red Bishop • Violet-eared Waxbill • Black-faced Waxbill • Pin-tailed Whydah And many more…
THINGS NOT TO MISS IN WINDHOEK: •
•
• • •
Take a historical stroll by visiting the Christuskirche, Tintenpalast and the National and the Independence Museum, all within short walking distance of each other Enjoy interesting cuisine at a number of different restaurants that serve both western and local African menus Indulge in buying local crafts at the Namibia Craft Centre Catch a show or performance at either the National Theatre of Namibia, the Warehouse Theatre or the FNCC Go on a local township tour into Katutura or a city walk through the CBD with a guide
FAST FACTS •
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Ti Melen has 4 cosy and spacious en suite rooms, a small swimming pool and Jacuzzi, as well as WiFi. The kitchen gladly prepares breakfast, lunch and dinners. Ti Melen is part of Ondili Lodges & Activities. Ondili is one of Namibia’s leading lodge groups, with establishments in the Kalahari, the Namib, the Erongo area as well as Ti Melen in Windhoek. Visit their website at www.ondili.de for more information on these amazing locations and the Ondili lodges to be found there.
DID YOU KNOW? The name Ti Melen is Breton for “yellow house”. Breton is a language native to France. It is classified as “severely endangered” as only about 200 000 speakers remain in our day.
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A tourism reverie Text Rièth van Schalkwyk Photographs SWA Safaris
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magine the year is 1954 and you are boarding a twin prop 50-seater Douglas DC-3 in Germany for a flight to Johannesburg. Four overnight stops and five days later you arrive in Windhoek. Imagine fainting over the Alps because of the “thin” air, and getting airsick over Sudan because the pilot flew low enough for you to be able to see herds of elephant down below. Imagine seeing the “Islands in the Sky” as the tops of Kilimanjaro, Mt Meru and Mt Kenya peep through the cloud cover, and on day four flying over the red Kalahari Desert en route to Johannesburg in South Africa. And then, on the fifth day, boarding another plane for the last stretch to Eros Airport in Windhoek, where at last the real adventure is about to begin. Those were not only the early days of commercial air travel between Europe and southern Africa, but also the beginnings of commercial tourism in the country which was then still called South West Africa. The family of Uwe Sentefol – who literally steered the wheels of those early trucks and converted them to carry passengers instead of sand and stone – guided the transition from those early days to the modern age. From what is depicted in the photographs from a 1950s album (next page), to tourists in state of the art luxury coaches with the SWA Safari logo proudly displayed on green is a remarkable feat. They still visit the same, now
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famous attractions of an independent Namibia, travelling on paved or wide gravel roads. Uwe’s son Wilfried joined SWA Safaris in the early eighties and with a university qualification in IT ushered in the electronic age, moving from telex to fax machines to computers. From as young as three years old Wilfried travelled with his father in a Ford F250 to fix buses wherever they got stuck with mechanical problems. That same Ford is still the safari vehicle for Sentefol family trips all over southern Africa. Reminiscing about the time he joined the family business more than three decades ago, Wilfried says that although the tourism business spontaneously started to provide trucks for visiting family and friends from Europe, who then also wanted to see more of the country, formal business through tourism agents in Germany made it necessary for the previous generation to offer formalised itineraries and structure. Before long the safaris became a separate division of the original construction business and eventually a separate business altogether. In 1960 they imported the first real touring bus from Germany and the show was on the road. There is no big secret, says Wilfried. Keep up with the times. Follow the trends and adapt to change. As one of the leading privately owned Namibian companies in the fast changing landscape of international tourism, he does not shy away from competition, or from changing times. TNN
No rules about staying in your vehicle - if you could handle the sun, you could get your photo, or at least the perfect sighting through your binoculars. Strength, or the lack of it, was the only excuse for not pushing a few tons through thick sand, or fixing tyres. This was participation camping long before the phrase was coined. With special permits, hand drawn maps indicating mostly just possible routes rather than tracks, and guests with adventure in their veins, they ventured into the remotest region - the Skeleton Coast. Luggage on the roof, no tents, just stretchers on the ground and a steel trunk for all your possessions. From the one extreme to the other. From the rugged beauty of Kaokoland, to the flat, sandy red Kalahari, towards the Okavango they explored.
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OVERLOOKED RICHES the floral diversity of Kaoko
Text and Photographs Helge Denker
Plants. We tend to take them for granted – a part of the landscape. On safari, a good shade tree has its worth, especially in the hot and arid hinterlands… but how many travellers know of the floral diversity of Namibia’s northwest and look out for its many proponents as they navigate rugged tracks through spectacular landscapes searching for wilderness experiences?
The entire Namibian escarpment, which stretches in a ragged, rugged, sometimes broken line across the length of the country and beyond it, is a broad band of terrestrial endemism. That means that many of the lifeforms of this area have evolved to become unique and occur only here and nowhere else on Earth. Numerous species of birds, reptiles and mammals are endemic to the Namibian escarpment. Yet, (not counting insects) plants offer the greatest number of uniquely Namibian – and often uniquely Kaoko – species. The ‘Kaoko Floral Diversity Conservancy Side-Track’ focuses on some of these, as well as other fascinating features of the Orupembe and Sanitatas Conservancies. Conservancy Side-Tracks are newlyestablished tourism routes that have been developed to enhance visitor experiences in communal conservancies. The routes are identified in collaboration with the local communities, giving them a more direct stake in guiding tourism traffic onto preferred, locally authorised tracks. The proceeds from the sale of the Side-Track route brochures (available in Windhoek, Swakopmund and in the Orupembe Conservancy) are reinvested into community conservation initiatives. The routes encourage local exploration, rather than simply rushing from one celebrated destination to the next.
TWELVE INTERESTING PLANTS: Bushman poison, Adenium boehmianum Bottle tree, Pachypodium lealii Paper-bark euphorbia, Euphorbia guerichiana Purple-stem corkwood, Commiphora multijuga Large-leaved sesame-tree, Sesamothamnus leistneri 6. Moringa, Moringa ovalifolia 7. African star-chestnut, Sterculia africana 8. Candelabra euphorbia, Euphorbia virosa 9. Large-leaved sterculia, Sterculia quinqueloba 10. Herero sesame-tree, Sesamothamnus guerichii 11. Blue-leaved corkwood, Commiphora glaucescens 12. Kaoko tree-euphorbia, Euphorbia eduardoi 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
EIGHT NEAR-ENDEMIC BIRDS: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
Monteiro’s Hornbill Damara Hornbill White-tailed Shrike Rosy-faced Lovebird Rüppell’s Parrot Bare-cheeked Babbler Violet Wood-hoopoe Rüppell’s Korhaan
The Orupembe and Sanitatas Conservancies and adjacent areas are considered a localised hotspot of particularly high plant endemism. Some species are known from only here. Between 25 and 35 endemic or nearendemic plant species have been recorded for the area. Near-endemic means that the range of the species does not fall entirely within Namibia’s borders – animals and plants pay scant attention to such man-made delineations. The species are endemic to this special part of the world, but range marginally into Angola, where the habitat remains similar for a good northward stretch.
Paper-bark euphorbia (Euphorbia guerichiana)
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Bottle tree (Pachypodium lealii)
As most of this distinct zone of biodiversity falls outside national parks, communal conservancies and community forests take on the vital role of ensuring sound management of natural resources here. A community forest in an area without actual forests – or even particularly many trees – may seem like an incongruity. The name is misleading. It’s not just about forests, or even only trees. All plant resources fall under the auspices of the Directorate of Forestry within the Ministry of Agriculture, Water and Forestry. By registering an area as a community forest, local residents in communal areas have a legal mandate to manage these resources. Both the Orupembe and Sanitatas Conservancies have also registered their areas as community forests and thus manage both the plant life and wildlife of their land for the common good. In many places in the arid northwest, the harvesting of resin from Commiphora wildii trees is particularly important. Known as omumbiri, the resin has been used as an ingredient in Himba body rubs and perfumes for countless generations. In recent years, it has attracted the interest of international cosmetic companies, which now use omumbiri in their products. Himba women harvest the resin for commercial sale and this provides important cash income to their households. The trees are not harmed by the harvesting as the resin is exuded naturally, making this one of the truly sustainable local resource uses. Many of the plants found along this Side-Track route are not just unique, but also visually stunning. Kaoko tree-euphorbias stand like sentinels on hillsides. Numerous Commiphora species, most prominent amongst them the purple-stem corkwood and blue-leaved corkwood, add character to the landscape with their gnarled and striking forms. Moringas, sesame trees and bottle trees draw attention, each with their own unique, heavy-set form. And the baobab, that most revered of Africa’s trees, towers over the land in several places along the route.
more difficult and indistinct track that may be washed out in places; a full day should still be planned for the 75 kilometres. You don’t have to be a botanist to enjoy this route. The floral diversity is just one facet. Searching for Namibia’s near-endemic birds is particularly rewarding here, too. At least eight of the dozen plus Namibian nearendemics are regularly encountered. For many, the spectacular landscape will be reward enough for the day’s four-wheel-driving. The track also passes numerous Himba settlements, giving insights into this unique culture. And, though not abundant, there is large wildlife. Giraffe roam here, as do gemsbok, springbok and Hartmann’s mountain zebra. The fortunate may glimpse elephant, lion, leopard or cheetah, although these are rarely seen in this sector. Of all of the diverse features of the route, sunrise and sunset over the Onyuva plains may instil the greatest sense of quiet awe in conscious travellers. TNN
BRING ALONG YOUR FIELD GUIDES: Namibian book stores stock a variety of wonderful field guides and photo books to help identify and enjoy Namibia’s biodiversity. Of particular interest for this area are the field guide Trees & Shrubs of Namibia and the photographic celebration Birds of Namibia – A Photographic Journey.
The House on the Hill and Marble Campsite, as well as the Etaambura Camp, all located near the small settlement of Onyuva along the route between Orupembe and Rooi Drom, offer great options as a base from which to explore the area for that extra day. The whimsically-named House on the Hill provides creativelyappointed, self-catering stone cottages. Etaambura Camp, set on a rocky ridge affording incredible views in all directions, is an equally stunning self-catering choice. All three enterprises are operated in collaboration with the Orupembe Conservancy, with Etaambura actually being owned by a consortium of conservancies including Orupembe. The Kaoko Floral Diversity route is a full-day, four-wheel-drive route that can be considered moderately challenging for novice four-by-four drivers. Vehicles with a good ground clearance are a must, as the route traverses steep, rocky sections. The full-colour route brochures that define the trails include a highly-detailed map to enable accurate navigation. You should, however, have a GPS along to check your location and verify turn-offs. The main route is a little over a hundred kilometres long, so a full day is certainly needed to really enjoy it. While there is a shorter route through rugged hills and valleys, it is a
GET YOUR SIDE-TRACK: Conservancy Side-Track route brochures are available at CYMOT outlets in Windhoek, Swakopmund and Otjiwarongo, and at selected accommodation establishments in conservancies. For more info visit www.nacso.org.na.
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Zeila Shipwreck, Henties Bay
DESTINATION SWAKOPMUND
MORE WAYS TO
spend the days Text Marita van Rooyen Photographs Xenia Ivanhoff-Erb
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German-inspired oasis, at the edge of where the cold Atlantic meets the world’s most ancient desert, Swakopmund is renowned for its old-world charm reminiscent of an era long gone. Architecture from the German colonial era – when the town was the main port of entry – creates an almost surreal impression of the inner town. While landmark buildings such as the Kaiserliches Bezirksgericht, Woermann Haus, Altes Amtsgericht and the Evangelical Lutheran Church provide for a picturesque overview, modern-day shopping centres, restaurants, coffee shops and all the usual amenities and comforts of home conveniently flank history. Crowned as the heart of Namibia’s premier tourism destination, Swakopmund is the base from where to explore a plethora of unique desert and ocean adventures. It offers the opportunity to get immersed in a diverse cultural heritage and it is the ideal destination for those who just want to kick off their shoes, bury their toes into the soft sand at the beach and relax with a book, or ice cold beer. Swakopmund is the ultimate unwind-while-you-explore destination, and even when you think you’ve seen it all, there will still be more to discover. An alternative to the usual tourist venture is the option to visit the surrounding area on an assortment of day trips. Whether you decide to head in a southerly, northerly or easterly direction, the environment will in every sense provide a refreshing change of scenery and introduce you to natural phenomena ranging from geological wonders and volcanic features, to desert-adapted fauna and flora.
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CAPE CROSS: BEACON OF AN OLDEN DAY EXPLORER The origin of Cape Cross is one of the earliest seafaring expeditions to Africa: that of Diego Cão, who planted his famous stone cross on these rocky shores in 1485. He didn’t spend long enough to explore the inland, but despite the fact that since his departure much has happened in terms of shaping the area’s rich record of events, it is his beacon that remains the key symbol of Cape Cross. History is by no means all that you can expect from a visit to this isolated section of the coastline. Cape Fur Seals dominate the local wildlife, and the Cape Cross Seal Reserve boasts the biggest mainland-breeding colony in the world. Watch the seals splash about the waves – which is just as popular for surfing – take a stroll along the beach or grab a rod and show your knack at angling. Other activities include outings to old shipwrecks, sensitive lichen fields, Welwitschia plains and our very own ‘Dead Sea’, or salty waterhole in the desert. On your way back from Cape Cross, make a stop at one of the unmanned salt-crystal sellers’ stands and pick up a block of truly Namibian Atlantic salt at a bargain.
...the weather will always be cool and fresh and the dunes warm and inviting... Cape Cross Salt Pans
Sandwich Harbour from the air
-Destination Swakopmund-
DESTINATION SWAKOPMUND SANDWICH HARBOUR: NATURAL CONSERVATION AT ITS FINEST Imagine a turquoise-tinged lagoon, green with reeds and teeming with large numbers of coastal and freshwater birds, flanked by towering sands and rolling waves, and views of untouched desert landscapes for as far as the eye can see. This otherworldly sight must have played a significant part in attracting the early traders to the former commercial fishing port of Sandwich Harbour.
These days, little remains of the earlier human footprint, and Sandwich Harbour and surrounds are instead known to be a valuable conservation area – hosting one of the most important wetlands in Southern Africa – and considered to be one of the most geomorphologically active parts of the Namibian coastline. Don’t make the mistake of getting carried away by the natural beauty however: the harbour is only accessible during low tide and you might find yourself stuck if you linger too long.
Ganab Plains
GANAB PLAINS: FOR SILENCE AND SOLITUDE If it’s space, silence and solitude you’re after, then the Ganab Plains should get an honorary position on your bucket list. Sure, it’s true that pretty much everywhere in this vast country you’ll be constantly reminded of your inner Zen, but the Ganab environs certainly take the possibility of inner silence a step above the rest. With wide-open plains, dotted by groves of camel thorn trees along a dry riverbed, it is here where you’ll become aware of the endless expanse of the Namib Desert and all its subsections. The only disruption to the silence will come in the form of grazing springbok, gemsbok or zebra, and if you’re lucky, a lonesome spotted-hyena or bat-eared fox sniffing about for scraps.
Spitzkoppe Restcamp
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SPITZKOPPE: NAMIBIA’S FAMOUS HORN The boulder-strewn peak that goes by the nickname ‘Namibia’s Matterhorn’ is by far the most legendary mountain in the country. More famously known as the Spitzkoppe, the rocky outcrop with its sharp one-horned peak rises 1 784 meters above sea level, jutting out from the surrounding environment like a majestic force of nature. Rich in minerals and the hub of Namibia’s semiprecious stone mines, the Spitzkoppe area provides the exceptional opportunity to acquire a collection of local crystals right from the source. Add to the shiny stones an assortment of San paintings dating back 4 000 years, and granite boulders the size of giants’ marbles, and you’ve got yourself right in the middle of any geologist’s dream. The mountain is world-renowned for bouldering and climbing, providing options for rock-jocks of all calibres. But if you’re not of the rock-hopping variety, fear not, because there are also other ways to appreciate the beauty of the area: by foot, horseback or from a picnic spot under a shady tree.
Welwitschia mirabilis
The Spitzkoppe's 'Matterhorn'
DESTINATION SWAKOPMUND
South of Messum Crater
MESSUM CRATER: A GRAND VOLCANIC FEATURE The remnants of a massive volcanic eruption dating back to between 132 and 135 million years, the Messum crater boasts an impressive diameter of 18 kilometres. With an intriguing history as a geological wonder the crater also houses numerous shelters decorated with rock art, many of which used to be littered with stone tool artefacts (now safely stored in museums). The surrounding area is rich in the symbols of desert life, including the Welwitschia mirabilis plant, a wide array of lichen species as well as unique wildlife. Keep an eye out to spot some ancient stone circles from the Damara nomads. The Messum Crater is a bit further in distance than the average day trip, but is well worth a visit for its utter isolation and breathtaking views. Situated northeast of Cape Cross, it is also possible to combine a trip to both destinations within the same day. TNN For more info visit www.destination-swakopmund.com
GOOD TO KNOW: •
• •
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Most destinations are accessible for self-drivers, although 4x4 vehicles might be required to visit some of the more remote natural attractions. If you’re planning a self-drive trip, best check routes and recommendations with a tour operator first. Keep in mind that the addition of an experienced guide with local knowledge could turn a simple journey of selfexploration into one of the most memorable expeditions of a lifetime. Day trips – and guides – can be booked with various tour operators, and depart Swakopmund on a daily basis. Excursions take between 5–8 hours and usually include a light lunch, cold drinks and national park entry fees where applicable.
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• Situated in the beautiful coastal town Swakopmund • Built in and around the restored Old Station Building dating back to 1901 • This 4-star hotel offers 90 spacious rooms • Recreational facilities include a swimming pool, a gymnasium and casino, 2 Cinemas with 3D, Hair Salon & Spa • Two-minute’s walk from city centre • Day trips to the desert as well as dolphin cruises and scenic flights can be arranged. Tel: +264 (0) 64 410 5200 | Fax: +264 (0) 64 410 5360 Email: swakopmund@legacyhotels.co.za | Website: www.LegacyHotels.co.za PO Box 616, Swakopmund
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Standard Rooms (wheel • Foreign Exchange chair accessible) Limited Wireless Internet Standard Rooms (wheel • Foreign Exchange Luxuryaccessible) Suites In-houseWireless Gym Internet chair • Limited Restaurant • In-house Child Friendly Luxury Suites Gym Casino 18 hole Championship Restaurant • Child Friendly Bars Golf Course Casino • 18 hole Championship Bars Golf Course Tel: +264 (0) 61 205 5911 | Fax: +264 (0) 61 252 797 Email: windhoek@legacyhotels.com Website: Tel: +264 (0) 61 205 5911 | | Fax: +264www.LegacyHotels.com (0) 61 252 797 Location: B1 Western Bypass,| Windhoek South, Namibia Email: windhoek@legacyhotels.com Website: www.LegacyHotels.com Location: B1 Western Bypass, Windhoek South, Namibia
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The memory of places
A SHORT HISTORY OF SOME AMAZING NAMIBIAN LOCATIONS, NOW MANAGED BY NAMIBIA WILDLIFE RESORTS Photographs Namibia Wildlife Resorts Text Elzanne Erasmus & Annelien Robberts
Our history is an important part of who we are. It has shaped us. It def ines us. The events and trials of our past are scattered across the land. Fortresses built, ancient cultures painted across rock walls, battles won and lost, moments turned into memories, never to be forgotten. And just as moments and experiences can live on forever in our minds and hearts, so too can the memory of places, their chronicles, live on for future generations to admire, absorb and hopefully one day think back on fondly.
M
any of Namibia Wildlife Resorts’ establishments have carved their footprints into the memory of this country. Resorts such as Okaukuejo, Namutoni, Duwisib and Gross Barmen, each have a rich legacy, wellpreserved today. This autumn, TNN looks back on the history and heritage of ten of these establishments. “We are what our past has made us…” Immerse yourself in the memories.
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GROSS BARMEN
A Rhenish mission station, of which the ruins still remain, was built on this site in 1844. Missionaries named the station “Great Barmen” after the station’s headquarters in Germany. The mission station in Windhoek was “Barmen”. The original name, however, was Otjikango, meaning large fountain in Otjiherero. Today, nestled on the banks of a tributary of the Swakop and a short distance west of Okahandja, this resort still features hot mineral springs.
Fort Namutoni (1903)
/AI-/AIS HOTSPRINGS Situated at the southern end of the Fish River conservation area, /Ai-/Ais means “scalding hot” in Nama, which refers to the hot springs found in this harsh, stony landscape. Along with the Fish River Canyon, it was first proclaimed a nature reserve in 1968. In 2003, Namibia’s first president, Dr Sam Nujoma, and the former president of the Republic of South Africa, Thabo Mbeki, signed a treaty that officially established Namibia’s first transfrontier conservation area, namely the /Ai-/Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park.
In 1953, the first game ranger, BJG de la Bat, arrived and soon afterwards became the Director of Nature Conservation and Tourism in Namibia. Today Okaukuejo is known for its aweinspiring wildlife and fertility. Colourful legends abound, but it is said that the name, originally Okakwiya, means “the woman who has a child every year”.
HALALI Opened in 1967, Halali’s name is a German word that is used to announce the end of the hunt by bugle. The only hills in Etosha Park are situated at Halali and were once strategically used by colonial German soldiers to operate a heliograph device to signal their comrades at Fort Namutoni. This also elucidates the name of the waterhole Helio.
NAMUTONI Travellers who first came upon Etosha Pan in 1851 camped at Namutoni’s waterhole. In 1897 Namutoni became a control post during an outbreak of rinderpest. Thereafter, it remained a frontier post for monitoring trade with Ovamboland. The original fort was constructed during 1902 and 1903, but was burned to the ground in the following year by a group of Ovambo warriors led by Ondonga Chief Nehale, after whom the waterhole was named. The fort was rebuilt in the original design in 1906 and declared a national monument in 1949.
OKAUKUEJO In the beginning the only inhabitants of this site were the nomadic Haikom Bushmen. The rest camp started as a military outpost founded in 1901, while the tower was added in 1963.
Okaukuejo Tower
WATERBERG In sharp contrast with the savannah plains below, Waterberg, meaning water mountain, owes its name to the springs on its slopes and the lush vegetation. It became home to a Rhenish mission station in 1873, subsequently destroyed during Nama/Herero wars and rebuilt again in 1891. In 1904, the German-Herero battle took place around this plateau, with the Battle of Hamakari on the forefront. In German colonial times the current restaurant and wine cellar served as police station and prison where many Herero people were held captive.
DUWISIB From the highest social circles in Saxony, Captain Hans-Heinrich von Wolf and his American wife first lived in tents in Duwisib’s semi-arid, rocky hills. Artisans and masons from Europe were commissioned to assist in building and furnishing their medieval-style castle. Construction commenced in 1908 under German architect Wilhelm Sander. In 1914, Von Wolf signed up for military duty in the First World War and was killed in the Battle of the Somme. His wife, Jayta, never returned to Duwisib.
Waterberg Resort
NAUKLUFT Intended to conserve the rare Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra, the Naukluft Mountain Zebra Park was established in 1964. In 1979 it was merged with the Namib Desert Park. Naukluft’s name, meaning “narrow gorge” in German, is derived from the steep gorge on the east side of the mountains. In the early 1890s this became the site of a guerrilla war against German colonial troops initiated by Nama chief Hendrik Witbooi.
OLIFANTSRUS This newest addition to Etosha National Park caters exclusively for camping. Its name means “elephants’ resting place” in Afrikaans, as migrating elephants used to stop and rest at this spot. Ironically, however, a large number of elephants were culled here in the 1980s.
Duwisib Castle
SHARK ISLAND The rocky promontory between Robert Bay and Lüderitz Harbour served as a concentration camp manned by German colonial troops in their battles against the Nama and Herero peoples. In 1906, approximately 1 800 Nama were taken prisoner, among them their military leader, Cornelius Fredericks. Most of them succumbed due to the horrid conditions, including the cold weather and malnutrition. Find out how these amazing places have adapted to the modern world! See what they look like today by visiting www.nwr.com.na. Share your favourite NWR memory with us by tagging @travelnewsnamibia and using the hashtag #inspireNWR. TNN
Shark Island
Olifantsrus
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RARE SPECIES REDISCOVERED in the dancing heat waves of the Namib Text and Photographs Oliver Halsey
A lone Raphionacme haeneliae on the vast gravel plains of the Namib Desert.
T
he seemingly inhospitable gravel plains of the Namib Desert extend over vast distances. Standing alone in the middle of this barren landscape can be a daunting experience. At a glance, there seems to be no sign of life in the hot, dusty, rocky and apparently endless plains that surround you. The unobstructed horizon extends in all directions, save southwest, where its line thickens with the dunes of the Namib Sand Sea, just visible through the dancing heat waves. It isn’t until your gaze turns to the ground around your feet that the
smaller signs of life appear. Small burrow holes pockmark the surface, so uniform a field that the pattern remains invisible to the casual passer-by. The plains are home to an impressive variety of beetles, lizards, geckos and other small life forms in burrows, and racing along the surface. They are examples of superbly adapted desert wildlife which can obtain the water that they need to survive without drinking often, if at all. One of the last things you would expect to see in this arid wilderness is a bright green plant - the quintessential illustration of life.
Over 40 years ago, in 1972, on the gravel plains of the NamibNaukluft Park a small plant was discovered by Ernest Robinson, a research assistant at Gobabeb Research Centre at the time. Robinson collected two specimens. They were sterile but from the tubers they were later identified as a Raphionacme species. Raphionacme is a genus in the family Apocynaceae of some 36 species, six of which occur in Namibia. The two specimens that Robinson collected were then locked away at the University of Fort Hare’s herbarium for several years. Searches were made in the years following their discovery in an attempt to locate more, but to no avail – the plants were never seen again. More than two decades after Robinson’s original find, Christine Hänel, an intern at Gobabeb, found a plant that looked suspiciously similar to Robinson’s. It was after heavy rainfalls, and again on the gravel plains of the central Namib. Examinations later revealed that the plants collected by Hänel were indeed a new species of Raphionacme. The new taxon was then named after Hänel, Raphionacme haeneliae - a tribute to the rediscovery of this secretive species. Since the publication of the type description the mysterious plant seemed to have vanished into hiding again. Many years later, after heavy rainfall in April 2009, Dr Antje Burke, a botanist in Namibia, led a team to determine the conservation status of the plant for the IUCN Red List. The team managed to locate several specimens and determined that the species should be listed as “Least Concern” due to no perceived threats associated with it. However, it is considered “Rare” due to its extremely limited distribution. In June last year (2016) heavy rainfall descended once again on parts of the Namib and the peculiar, desert-adapted miracle revealed itself again. After 18 mm of rainfall around Gobabeb in just two days, the research centre’s Executive Director, Dr
Dr Gillian MaggsKölling and Meg Schmitt (foreground) of Gobabeb try to locate the small plant on the extensive plains.
Gillian Maggs-Kölling, decided to search for the mysterious plant. Using a photograph taken in 1996 to align the rocky outcrops on the horizon, Dr Maggs-Kölling finally came across the elusive plant. Since the infrequent sightings were always made after heavy rains, it seemed probable that the plant sprouts only after a significant amount of rain, the tuber hidden away underground most of the time. After sufficient rainfall the flowers of R. haeneliae apparently are the first to penetrate the soil surface. The searches after the spectacular rainfall of 2016 revealed no R. haeneliae flowers, however. It is possible that rodents and/or game had eaten them because rather remarkably there was no trace left of the plants (such as fruit remains) – which is unusual due to extremely slow decomposition rates in the arid desert environment. But there are numerous examples of plants that bloom many years apart and there is a strong possibility that R. haeneliae does not flower regularly. With only the inconspicuous green leaves penetrating the surface, this could be another reason why the plant is seldom seen. Numerous scientists at Gobabeb have been trying to locate populations of R. haeneliae in the months after the rain, keeping track of their locations with GPS. In the 2016 survey, R. haeneliae was located at several additional sites, although it still seems endemic to the gravel plains of the central Namib. In June 2016 more than 40 mm of rain fell at Ganab, compared to 18 mm at the other known R. haeneliae locations. The plants seemed to respond positively to rain, with far bigger numbers found at Ganab. Shortly after the rain Ganab had an abundance of newly-bloomed desert flowers and other desertadapted flora, such as a flowering Hoodia currorii – a desert endemic succulent that has potential commercial use as a hunger suppressant.
TOP LEFT
Jessica Sack, research technician at Gobabeb, digs to retrieve the tuber of R. haeneliae.
ABOVE AND LEFT
Raphionacme haeneliae.
BELOW
The leaves of R. haeneliae start to turn yellow and fall off two months after its initial sprouting.
There are many unanswered questions surrounding this plant. “Raphionacme haeneliae is obviously perennial”, Dr MaggsKölling says. “We want to monitor known sites in the future to understand their distribution patterns. We haven’t yet seen the pollination mechanism of the plant so its reproductive strategies are uncertain.” Mice pollinate some taxa in the genus Protea, a dominant element of Fynbos, a vegetation type in the Cape region, South Africa. In such cases the flowers are carried close to the soil surface and are thus accessible to small rodents. The same could be true for R. haeneliae, which may explain its abundance in rodent-disturbed soil. Among the more interesting aspects of this mysterious plant are its familial relations. “We are to look at closely related taxa in the family Apocynaceae and whether they are edible or not. Lots in the family are very toxic”, says Dr Maggs-Kölling. Scientists can refer to what they know about other species in the Raphionacme genus, and thus deduce certain functions and attributes regarding R. haeneliae. Fockea is a genus of plants indigenous to southern Africa. They are known collectively as “water roots” and have large, milky sap-producing tubers, much like R. haeneliae. The tuber of F. angustifolia is sought-after by the indigenous Ju/'hoansi people as a juicy snack. Other species of Raphionacme such as R. lanceolata and R. velutina produce similar tuberous rootstocks. The latter is the plant responsible for
the archetypal image of San (Bushman) life: squeezing a tuber to produce a thirst quenching liquid. In previous times, being able to recognise the stalks of R. velutina in the sandy soil was a matter of life and death for many San people. Archaeological evidence of human activity dates back to over 8,000 years at Mirabib, a site with R. haeneliae in the vicinity. If the tubers are edible, it is reasonable to assume that they may have been a lifeline for people wandering the desert plains thousands of years ago. The discovery of a new species, or in this case the rediscovery of a relatively recently described but ever-elusive species, is always exciting. With many plants the world over providing significant benefit for humans, further research on R. haeneliae could potentially reveal hidden uses or provide answers to yetunknown questions. What we understand so far is that the leaves of R. haeneliae only sprout after heavy rainfall and last for about two to three months before drying up. The rarity of heavy rainfall combined with the remote location in which the plant is found are likely reasons why it is seldom seen. After the recent rediscovery, Gobabeb aims to continue to locate and monitor R. haeneliae through annual surveys. It is hoped that Gobabeb’s scientists will be able to unravel some of the secrets that this miraculous plant holds, allowing for a more concrete understanding of this green mirage on the plains. TNN
Jasper Vannueville of Vives University College, Belgium, attempts to locate a plant with GPS on the desolate gravel plains of the Namib.
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I was lucky enough to get a few photos of the R. haeneliae's very rare flowers. It is the first time a colour photo of these flowers has ever been published. The only other known existing photo is a black and white in a scientific paper from 1996.
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My favourite Etosha leopard daintily strolling between the yellow Acacia nebrowniis that flower only in August, when everything else is dull! What better way to depict both the animal's habitat and the seasonal changes than this?
Celebrating THE SEASONS Text and Photographs Annabelle Venter
I seem to be permanently tuned into the bushveld TV station, always watching what the weather is doing (my British ancestry could just be responsible for that too), but most importantly – what is happening outside in nature. Did I just hear the distant rumble of thunder, or see the first European bee-eater of summer?
M
y nature-loving parents introduced me early on to the endless pleasures of connecting to the natural world and wildlife photography now helps me record the changing seasons, with special attention given to detail, colour, big cats and elephants. It’s a passion I fortunately share with my husband and each year is carefully planned around capturing seasonal happenings. It’s often said that Namibia has just two seasons – wet and dry – but there is much more to that than meets the eye, if you know where to look. Let the journey begin!
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RIGHT: Gloriosa superba flowers in orange January splendour in the Mahango National Park.
FAR RIGHT: In September we often make the pilgrimage to the Zambezi River to photograph the mating rituals of the southern carmine bee-eaters, as they arrive to nest. Here two males battle it out, making for a wonderful photographic opportunity.
CENTRE: By early December the birds are already raising their chicks. The swallow-tailed bee-eaters are feeding their young and this provides hours of photographic entertainment! LEFT: Two male lions have their giraffe meal interrupted by a heavy December rainstorm and engage in some bonding before taking shelter under nearby bushes.
PHOTOGRAPHY FEATURE
The cycle of life continues, waiting for spring again and those first acacia flowers. Each year brings new discoveries and delights that you didn’t notice last year!
Elephants are particularly desperate for water during this dry time and visit the waterholes in the late afternoons. Great dust clouds accompany them and you just need to sit and wait.
LEFT: While heading home in the golden sunset hour in Etosha we came upon this leopard that had discovered a dead wildebeest (it probably died of anthrax). An opportunistic cat, a leopard will seldom pass up the chance of a free meal.
RIGHT: Hundreds of black-winged stilts feed in Fischer’s Pan in eastern Etosha during March.
BELOW: Space at the waterhole is limited and the game is wary. A group of young lions practise their hunting skills at Jakkalswater in August.
All too soon the green turns to grey and eventually yellow grass covers the landscape once more. Pickings are lean in winter and all must find food wherever they can.
Autumn in Etosha is a magical time, green grass turns to seed and in a good year there’s water in the pan. Migrant birds are still feeding off summer’s bounty.
Desperately dry and already warming up, spring starts early in Namibia, with flowering acacias waking the landscape from its winter slumber in August.
The goal of my endeavours is to raise awareness of the natural beauty that surrounds us daily, be it an innocent newborn baby or the first wild flowers of summer.
Nature photography for me is a balance between capturing animals in seasonal context as well as ringing the seasonal changes up close.
I’m an Instagram addict because I want to fill my day and yours with beautiful images! TNN www.annabelleventer.com
A Capetonian by birth, I’ve lived in Namibia for almost 30 years. I trained as a nurse and midwife, then later threw in a BA degree for good measure and now devote my time to capturing the beauty of Africa through wildlife ceramics, photographs and words. I’m also a Birth Photographer, specialising in the labour and birth itself. I love the Cape south coast, fynbos-covered mountains, large riverine forests, Mozart and pink lilies (and perhaps a dry pink wine to go with it all!).
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TAKE A BREAK
ON THE ROAD BETWEEN WINDHOEK AND RUNDU
Text and photographs Ron Swilling
Journeys are about exploring and discovering. They are crammed with surprises: interesting people, fascinating stories and intriguing places. Instead of racing to your destination, consider slowing down and spicing up your trip with some colourful stops.
An ox-plough by the roadside, a rudimentary but still effective way of working the land.
T
he road north is an exciting one, as you take a leap into a more rural Africa and travel into the water-rich areas of north-eastern Namibia.
At 700 km this route is a longish one, but with ample stops to stretch limbs – and the imagination, and to discover, explore, shop and break for meals – it’s an enjoyable journey. Best to leave early. First stop after Windhoek, and after crossing the Swakop and Okahandja rivers, is Okahandja, a convenient place to fill up on fuel and take a stroll through the woodcarving market. This is also a good spot to purchase a supply of biltong for the road and down a cup of strong coffee from Brewed Awakenings to set you up for the day ahead.
TERMITE MOUNDS, WARTHOGS & BUXOM BEAUTIES Ladies selling monkey oranges
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The turnoff northwards to Otjiwarongo appears soon after leaving Okahandja. Liberally dotted with spindly termite mounds, this stretch is patrolled by a contingent of warthogs
TAKE A BREAK ON THE ROAD
that root on the verges, especially after the first rain showers. Prominent and unmistakable landmarks along the way are the Omatakos, a pair of buxom mountain beauties, so named after their resemblance to a woman’s fleshy behind. If time allows and earth history boggles your brain, make a turn onto the D2404 for the 64 km drive to the Otjihaenamaparero Guest Farm to walk in the footsteps of dinosaurs. The tracks, etched into the Etjo sandstone, are said to be 219 million years old. Human beings were but a dream on the wisp of the wind.
The tracks, etched into the Etjo sandstone, are said to be 219 million years old. Human beings were but a dream on the wisp of the wind.
Waterberg, ‘Water Mountain’, provides a good overnight stop for those on the slow road. The turnoff to the red-coloured mountain with its eroded sandstone crown beckons before Otjiwarongo. Waterberg is the historic site of the 1904 Battle of Ohamakari between the German colonial forces and the Herero. Soak up the natural beauty of several lodges and campsites in the area.
WEAPONS FROM A TURQUOISE ‘LAKE’ In the Namibian scheme of things Otjiwarongo is a large town and the perfect place to stock up, refuel and have a cup of coffee, brunch or lunch (Kameldorn Garten in Bahnhof Street is a firm favourite) before the next stretch to Otavi.
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From here, there are several options if you’re a history-lover – or a traveller interested in juicy bits of information from Namibia’s past. Tsumeb and Grootfontein both have small museums which are worth a visit, so if time allows, add a short loop to the journey and head towards Tsumeb. Relax at the Dros Restaurant at the Kupferquelle Resort, an easy stop at the entrance of the town to fill bellies before the generous serving of history.
machine-guns polished to a shine, which fill the sprawling room. On closer inspection it becomes apparent that these are the weapons that were sunk by the retreating Germans in the nearby sinkhole, Lake Otjikoto, lest they fall into enemy hands. They were retrieved from the lake in the early 80s. Lake Otjikoto is an 18 km drive on the B1 from Tsumeb, and as it is situated close to the road, is an easy detour to include if the history bug has bitten.
The highlight of the Tsumeb Museum is its Khorab Room, commemorating the peace treaty signed in 1915 between the Union of South Africa and Germany at the Kilometre 500 railway siding. The eye-opener is not the display panels that line the walls with intriguing information and photographs, however, but the chunky century-old field-cannons and
A REMNANT FROM THE STARS Along the road from Tsumeb to Grootfontein keep your eyes open for signs to the D2859 and the Hoba Meteorite. A 20 km drive along the gravel takes you to this auspicious site where the largest known meteorite to be found on Earth fell through the atmosphere some 80 000 years ago – and presumably landed with a tremendous clunk and a dust cloud to rival all ill-famed manmade explosions. Climb aboard this 60-ton chunk of iron – or ‘shooting star’, discovered by chance in 1920 by a farmer tilling his fields, and remember to duck when you approach the ‘Beware of falling meteorites’ sign! Housed in the old Schutztruppe fort, Grootfontein’s museum stands out for its charm. The crumbling old fort was repaired in 1977 with funds raised by a group of businessmen and has operated as a private museum ever since. Picnic tables outside provide shady spots to nibble on supplies or to take a breather, and indoors offers a collection of interesting items and snippets of information. This includes an old letter about the Hoba-meteorite find; a copy of Hartmann’s original map one of the first reliable maps of the country; correspondence between famous Herero chief Maharero and Hartmann; an assortment of clothes from the intrepid Dorsland trekkers who travelled through the Kalahari into Angola in the late 1800s; and of course, the history of the construction of the longest narrow gauge light railway in the world at the time, the Otavibahn, completed between Swakopmund and Tsumeb in 1906 – and between Otavi and Grootfontein in 1908.
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TAKE A BREAK ON THE ROAD INTO THE HEART OF AFRICA But the Kavango lies ahead, so take your leave and continue northwards. North of Grootfontein is the turnoff to Tsumkwe and the Ju/’Hoansi-San Living Museum run by the San/ Bushmen of the Grashoek village. A visit to the living museum is recommended to experience the traditional life of the San, if you have the time (it’s a 74 km drive on gravel) and a 4x4 vehicle to negotiate the soft sand. Alternatively, you can arrange a shuttle with Roy’s Camp, a few kilometres further on. Roy’s runs trips to the living museum for groups of 7, booking is essential. But, wait for it! The journey is about to change – dramatically! As you drive through the Mururani Veterinary Gate, 50 km further north, farmland transforms into rural Africa. Welcome to the Kavango Region! It’s a step into the past with wattle and daub huts and ox-drawn carts – and a wonderful passageway into the heart of Africa. Slow down for people and animals. The well-made carvings, pots and cone-shaped woven fishing nets, characteristic of this region, are sold along the roadside, as are monkey-oranges. Make a stop to buy and try this delicious and unusual tropical-tasting fruit.
Don’t miss the Ncumcara Community Forestry Craft Shop on the left-hand side 30 km before Rundu. This is where permits are issued for trees to be harvested from the community forest and a small shop serves as an outlet for the carvings. The place is filled with well-made Kiaat bowls, spoons, animals and fold-out tables. Decorative wooden doors, chiselled with an African design, are the speciality of the carpenter-manager, Joseph Lihita Njamba. Soon after Ncumcara, a motley assortment of corrugated iron houses and shebeens line the road as you near Rundu, your destination on the Okavango River, where water bird calls and river peace await you – and an evening of lush, golden beauty. The promise of the morning and the journey into the Zambezi Region are still a night’s sleep way. So, there’s time for a sunset boat cruise, a wholesome meal and a sound sleep to the chorus of frogs. TNN Lekker slaap & mooi ry! (Sleep well & happy travels!)
FOR MORE INFORMATION Visit www.travelnewsnamibia.com for more detailed information about the region and for more "Take a break" stories on Namibia's roadside delights by Ron Swilling.
Lake Otjikoto
#GOING GREENSPORT COMPETITION CYMOT’s ultimate Namibian camping adventure
Do you love the great outdoors? Do you love the smell of the campfire, the breeze in your hair and the sound of birds chirping early in the morning as you lie listening in your tent? The tent that you pitched somewhere in Namibia. Somewhere wild and beautiful! This year, CYMOT and Travel News Namibia will be celebrating nature lovers and avid campers with another ultimate adventure competition… camping adventures! In 2016 you shared your epic adventure stories with us. This year we want you to go camping and share your amazing photos! Enter the “Going Greensport” competition by sending your Namibian camping adventure photos to info@travelnewsnamibia.com, sharing them on social media and tagging @travelnewsnamibia and using the hashtag #goingGreensport. All entries will be added into a lucky draw and each week one winner will be awarded a N$500 CYMOT gift voucher! Special prizes will also be awarded to photos that feature CYMOT’s proudly Namibian GREENSPORT brand. These special winners will be selected by a panel of judges from Travel News Namibia. An overall winner will be selected at the end of the competition. This prize will be announced and awarded at the 2017 Namibia Tourism Expo, which takes place form 31 May to 3 June. So go camping! Take incredible photos! And win awesome prizes with CYMOT, Namibia’s leading outdoor equipment retailer! Go Greensport!
The competition runs from 1 April to 31 May. For more information and to read competition Terms and Conditions visit www.travelnewsnamibia.com.
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Tel +264 64 46 4144 Fax +264 64 46 4155 info@eningulodge.com www.eningulodge.com
Experience with us the Beauty of Namibia, Wilderness of Botswana and Secrets of Zimbabwe
What makes us unique?
+264 (0)64 203496 +264 81 246 0034 info@bociansafaris.com www.namibia.com.pl Sam Nuyoma Avenue 11, Walvis Bay
• Personal service • One stop – shop (Accommodation, vehicle hire and activity bookings) • Specialize both in self –drive & guided Safaris • Cater for all: from family travel, filming crew, bird watchers etc. • Taste of African original • No hidden costs
Tel +264 61 40 1494 • Fax +264 61 24 3079 reservations@rivercrissing.com.na • www.rivercrossing.com.na
TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA AUTUMN 2017
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T HE J UPITER D RAWING R OOM (CT) 49 988/ E
Brewery Stops Brewing We weren’t willing to compromise, because we would never expect you to. Windhoek temporarily halts production lines waiting for quality ingredients.
Windhoek Brewery 1930s
WINDHOEK In the 1930s it became difficult to get the barley and hops we normally used to brew our beer. We could have changed our recipe or used second-rate ingredients to keep the numbers up. But we didn’t, because the quality of our beer is everything to us. And that’s not worth compromising.
H
ermann Ohlthaver and Carl List made a pact when they consolidated four breweries to found South West Breweries almost 100 years ago. If they were going to brew beer, they were going to brew the very best beer they could. No compromise. They were passionate about their dream, and knew the beer they wanted to produce would only ever be as good as the ingredients used to brew it. So they crossed the ocean in search of the finest barley and hops available, and brought them back to what was then South-West Africa. The two friends truly loved beer. That’s why they made the decision to stop the production lines, when
because of the war it became difficult to get quality ingredients. We could have changed our recipe. We could have found different ingredients that were more readily available, or second-rate barley and hops that would have made an OK beer. But we weren’t willing to compromise, because we would never expect you to. We waited and waited and waited… until eventually we took delivery of quality barley and hops once more. Our brewery started up and we celebrated the first new batch with pride. For us it’s 100% Pure Beer. Brewed with only malted barley, hops and water. No compromise. Not back then. Not ever.
Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18. Drink Responsibly.
www.wolwedans.com
Wolwedans is more than a mere collection of camps. It’s a collection of dreams. Its ethos lies in setting an example in sustainability and continually fulfilling its commitment to the conservation of the NamibRand Nature Reserve.
...simply out of this world
Photo © Gerhard Thirion
Namibia. Wild at heart.
An untamed wilderness that will always leave you spoilt for choice. Mother Nature is waiting for you.
NAMIBIA – Head office C/O Haddy & Sam Nujoma Drive Private Bag 13244, Windhoek Tel: +264 61 290 6000 Fax: +264 61 25 4848 Email: info@namibiatourism.com.na www.namibiatourism.com.na
GERMANY Schillerstrasse 42 – 44, D – 60313 Frankfurt am Main, Tel: +49 69 1337 360 Fax: +49 69 1337 3615 Email: info@namibia-tourism.com www.namibia-tourism.com
SOUTH AFRICA Cape Town Ground floor, The Pinnacle Burg Street, P O. Box 739 Tel: +27 21 422 3298 Fax: +27 21 422 5132 Email: namibia@saol.com
www.namibiatourism.com.na