Indonesia Issue: The Best Getaways on 18,000 Islands

INDONESIA ISSUE

There are more than 18,000 islands in Indonesia. Pick the right one.

CONTENTS

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ISSUE 02 | MARCH 2019

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TRAVEL NEWS

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BAWAH RESERVE

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SHOOTING BALI

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18,000 ISLANDS Looking for that perfect Indonesia island getaway? Well the bad news is that you’ve got about 18,000 islands from which to choose.

The good news is that we know the best ones.

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BALI’S AMANDARI

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INTO IJEN

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CAPELLA UBUD: LUXURY FOR ADVENTURERS Capella Ubud is the hottest new luxury property on Bali; far from the beaches, this jungle hideaway is an explorer’s dream.

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CANGGU- THE CHANGING FACE OF BALI’S DINING SCENE

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SAVING THE GREAT APES GUNUNG LEUSER The red ape is alive and well in Sumatra, but conservation is not easy. Humans have driven orangutans to the edge, but there is still time to make a difference.

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SEMINYAK SUNDOWNERS

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LEMBEH: MUCK DIVING FOR THE LUXURY TRAVELER Lembeh is a bit off the luxury trail, but the muck diving here is the best in the world.

Forget the coral and get down in the muck.

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THE HIGH PRICE OF DEATH IN TORAJALAND

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BEST BALI BEACH RESORTS

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CLASSIC INDONESIA ITINERARY

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VICTORIA HILLEY: ON SUMMER ADVENTURES IN INDONESIA

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Publisher

Remote Lands

Founders

Catherine Heald, Jay Tindall

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Editor-in-Chief

Tyler Roney

Marketing

Phil Ingram

It’s the fourth most populous nation on the planet, but there’s always an undiscovered corner. It’s 18,000 islands, but it’s also tracts of rainforest and dusty plains.

Poison fumes from volcano calderas and the finest island resorts in Southeast Asia lavish guests with every amenity imaginable. This is Indonesia. And summer is the time to go. Regardless of what type of traveler you are, there is something to be found, from trekking with orangutans and tigers in Sumatra by day and glamping on the beach at night to spiritual pilgrimages through the blue seas of Flores and surfing Nihi Sumba. This Indonesia Issue will hopefully help travelers plan their journey a little more effectively – to know when to Bali and when to Java and when to cut loose on your own private schooner. As always, the experts at Remote Lands know how to get you where you’re going.

– Tyler Roney

Product Manager Trinity Nguyen Distribution

Liam Vickers

Design

Phoebe Storm

Cover Photo

Jordan Hammond

Contributors

Victoria Hilley, John McMahon, Scott Rainen, Nicole Leigh West, Tyler Roney, Jay Tindall, Juanita Pienaar, Jordan Hammond, Elsha McGill

Owner

Remote Lands, Inc.

Head Offices

Remote Lands, Inc., 120 East 56th Street, Suite 1150, New York, NY 10022, USA, +1 (646) 760-2048

Asia Offices

Remote Lands (Thailand) Co., Ltd., Mahatun Plaza Building, 7/F, 888/74 Ploenchit Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330, +66 (094) 957-3143

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Remote Lands: Ultra-luxe Touring to the Grand Prix in Singapore and Abu Dhabi Luxury travelers, start your engines: Remote Lands has announced ultra-luxe journeys to see the Grand Prix in Singapore and Abu Dhabi in 2019, limited to 26 lucky guests in each destination. From pit access to a five-star suite over the track, the Grand Prix with Remote Lands style is a unique luxury experience coupled with pre- and post-touring options to exclusive destinations throughout Asia.

Racing fans will sip champagne during the races, and then celebrate at the famed Amber Lounge after-party, where teams and Grand Prix legends mingle with the great and the good. Whether you want to dune bash in Abu Dhabi or eat Michelin-star cuisine in Singapore, Remote Lands designs bespoke, ultra-luxe journeys to cater to racing fans before and after that checkered flag flies.

New Ritz-Carlton Slated for Pune in 2019, Mumbai 2020

TRAVEL

The Ritz-Carlton, Pune is expected to open in 2019, the brand’s second property in India. Found about three hours’ drive from Mumbai, Pune is a gateway to a number of Maharashtra sights, including the Rajgad Fort. The RitzCarlton, Pune will be an airport hotel for luxury travelers.

“The Ritz-Carlton Pune is designed to be a captivating haven that complements our efforts to craft the city’s most refined and luxurious lifestyle destination. We are delighted to collaborate with Marriott International to bring the unique Ritz-Carlton luxury experience to the land of the Maratha’s heritage,” Atul Chordia, Chairman at Panchshil Realty said concerning the announcement Pune Ritz-Carlton launch.

The Ritz-Carlton, Mumbai is slated for 2020; the 238-room hotel will be located in Central Mumbai and was announced earlier this year.

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Aman Kyoto is a Go for 2019 The rumors were true; a new Aman is set to open in 2019 in one of Japan’s most historic, dynamic cities: Kyoto. The brand’s third resort in Japan, the Aman Kyoto is slated to open November 1, 2019. The destination is set in a hidden garden near the Golden Pavilion and will feature 24 rooms and 2 two-bedroom villas.

“Following on from the success of Aman Tokyo and Amanemu, Aman Kyoto will add another distinctive facet to our continued journey – and commitment – to Japan,” says Vladislav Doronin, chairman and CEO of Aman.

Away from the city center, the Aman Kyoto is found at the foot of Hidari Daimonji and is within walking distance of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Kinkaku-ji Temple. The 80-acres of the Kyoto site include 72 acres of permanent forest and eight acres of gardens, according to a press release announcing the opening.

NEWS Plan for Summer As one might readily guess, summer is the best time to start thinking about a getaway to Indonesia. Late April to September is the ideal time to plan a Bali beach holiday, as this is the dry season and usually features very low winds.

With a dry season that starts a little bit later in May, Java is another great place to vacation in summer; though it is pretty consistently hot, travelers will find it colder atop mountains like Mount Bromo.

Those who want to check out the equator will find Sumatra cooler than usual, but, as one might imagine, it rains pretty consistently in the orangutan-laden rainforest. Similarly, Kalimantan fans should ideally visit after May. Sulawesi is a little more complicated, but visitors hoping to check out the peculiar funerary rites of Torajaland, will want to plan after the monsoon season ends in April, and will want to get out of Medan before July. In Western Papua and the increasingly popular Raja Ampat, travelers should visit before June to get the best underwater visibility.

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BAWAH RESERVE

REMOTE, EXCLUSIVE, AND ELEGANT

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hen thinking about tropical travel in Indonesia, one destination reigns supreme: Bali, a lush island packed with five-star treats. Yes, the island’s reputation is warranted, but there are plenty of alternatives to consider. One such option is much more exclusive and considerably more remote. The hidden island retreat of Bawah Reserve is the hottest opening in recent years, a back-to-nature sensation on an Indonesian island archipelago. Found in the Riau Archipelago between peninsular Malaysia and Borneo, Bawah is already making a name

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for itself among the jet set as one of the most pristine resort islands in Indonesia. Built over the course of five years – constructed without the use of heavy modern machinery – the mission of this reserve is sustainability.

Dynamite fishing threatened the islands before they were developed by an English shipping entrepreneur from Singapore, Tim Hartnoll. He was captivated by this remote paradise’s potential and was driven to protect and develop the islands sustainably so that they might flourish again. And flourishing they are; the marine life has come back in droves, swimming

around the colorful coral reefs that surround these lush islands.

Due to Bawah’s limited capacity – a maximum of 70 guests in 35 private suites or villas – visitors feel like they have their own personal aquarium, brimming with tropical fish, reef sharks, and eels just steps from the lagoon-like infinity pool and white sand beaches. After landing by amphibious seaplane and taking a dip in the warm water, Bawah allows for your inclusive choice of resort activity: massages at the spa, hikes to the highest point of the main island to watch the sunset, or movie night in the outdoor theater (post barbecue of course).

The amphibious seaplane isn’t the first step in the journey to this remote island. The adventure begins in Singapore at your choice of hotel (the Fullerton Bay is our go to), before being picked up

by Bawah’s chauffeur for your private transfer to Tana Merah ferry terminal for your one-hour ferry ride to Batam. The transfer from the ferry terminal to the local airport builds the excitement before gliding over the clearest of ocean in the resort’s seaplane.

As the seaplane glides over Bawah’s coral-filled lagoon, visitors can clearly make out the friendly faces of the staff who already know your name and are eagerly awaiting your arrival. Attentive

but respectful, ready at a moment’s notice to attend to your every need but never in your way, the staff are one of the main reasons for this resort’s inimitable reputation.

Upon arrival they put genuine care in assisting you in cultivating your “schedule” for your time there.

Because Bawah is all inclusive, every detail is seen to: kayaking to the surrounding islands, snorkeling with a divemaster who knows the reefs inside and out, trekking through the forest with a guide who knows the best spots to catch the sun rise and set, cooking classes with the passionate chefs, private picnics along your own strip of beach, and gourmet suppers under the glow of the

handmade teak chandeliers on Treetops terrace; while there don’t forget to book “the lookout” for an even more intimate experience.

With three dining options besides Treetops – the Grouper Bar, the Jules Verne Bar, and the Boat House, which allows for a weekly BBQ pre-movie night under the stars – even your dining options are customizable.

It is the staff that curates a totally different experience for each guest at Bawah Reserve that really sets this resort apart. With a primeval forest and a topography that combines the Seychelles and the Maldives, is there really anything else you could look for in a tropical holiday?

SHOOTING BALI

By Jordan Hammond

PARADISE UNDER THE LENS

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here else but Bali? With cascading waterfalls, pristine beaches, luxury resorts, and intricate temples galore, this haven for snap-happy photographers is one of a kind. Combine all the unique elements of a Balinese experience with tropical weather and some of the most delicious and healthy food on the planet, and you’ve really got a winner.

Myself and my partner were fortunate enough to make Bali our home last year, exploring the island inside and out.

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Otherwise known as the Stairway to Heaven, Pura Lempuyang sits opposite the mighty Mount Agung, with a perfect view through the temple gates on a clear day. Located in the far east of Bali, the complex is home to seven temples and is an important site on the island for spiritual pilgrims – and photographers.

For the best photos, make sure you visit on a clear day and aim to be there for either sunrise or sunset as these times are generally less busy and the light is best for shooting. You may even be greeted by a local photographer who uses a mirror under a phone camera to take a reflection shot. Pura Lempuyang is one of the six holiest places in Bali, and is found on the slope of Mount Lempuyang, 600 meters above sea level.

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TEGELLALANG RICE TERRACES

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The Tegellalang Rice Terraces near Ubud is my favorite place to shoot the sunrise in Bali, especially when the light rays pierce through the surrounding palm trees. The terraces encompass the beauty of the island, and are arguably some of the most beautiful in the world. Take an early morning stroll through the terraces and meet the locals that work tirelessly planting and harvesting the rice, a staple of the Indonesian diet. If you head over to the other side of the hill in the middle of the terraces, you’ll find the most photogenic area of the terraces, with plenty of palm trees to use in your photos.

SEKUMPUL WATERFALL There are supposedly 99 waterfalls in Bali, with Sekumpul, in my opinion, the most magnificent.

Located in Northern Bali, which is a world away from the typical holiday destinations of Southern Bali, you’ll have to be prepared for an early start to get here before the light becomes too harsh. You’ll also have to wade through a couple of rivers, but the view is extraordinary from both the bottom and top of the waterfall.

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TUKAD CEPUNG WATERFALL

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When we first visited Tukad Cepung in 2016, we had the whole waterfall to ourselves. Today it’s quite a different story, but there are still some great photo opportunities to be had. Get to the waterfall for between 9am and 11am (depending on which month you visit) to capture the light through the cave roof and onto both the waterfall and the rock just in front of it – both of which make for a captivating shot. This little gem of a waterfall has become increasingly popular in recent years, but is still worth the visit to see something one of a kind.

The island of Nusa Penida is a 45 minute boat ride from Sanur in the south of Bali. Infrastructure is still in the early stages on Nusa Penida, and the locals still predominantly rely on fishing and farming for a living – resembling a bucolic Bali some decades ago before it became a popular holiday destination known around the world.

There are numerous photo opportunities on Penida, including Angels Billabong, Atuh Beach, and Crystal Bay, but my favorite place to shoot has to be Kelingking Cliff. The government recently invested in building a stairway from the cliff down to the beach below, and the scenery on the hike down serves for beautiful photos. If you have a drone, you can get great aerial shots of the cliff and the beach below.

So, if you’re ever planning on taking a trip to Bali, remember: take a good camera and keep your eyes open. This island is always changing.

KELINGKING BEACH NUSA PENIDA

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18,000 Islands

INDONESIA ISLAND GETAWAYS FOR 2019

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here’s no shortage of beachfront in a land of 18,000 islands, but for the discerning traveler, finding the right Indonesia island getaway can be a tough decision. There are islands with primeval forests accessible only by private seaplane, exotic surfing destinations tucked away in jungles, and luxury liveaboards for travelers who want to see as many islands as possible. Summer is the best time to visit Indonesia, and Remote Lands has the best island getaways for 2019.

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Misool Eco Resort

Considering the Raja Ampat archipelago comprises more than 1,500 small islands, cays, and shoals, most choose to explore the area by liveaboard, but the Misool Eco Resort offers a rare chance to have a sustainable and comfortable five-star experience in one of Southeast Asia’s most coveted diving hotspots.

Set on a secluded island filled with rich foliage that receives abundant sunshine, the Misool Eco Resort is composed of eight over-water cottages, three seaside villas, and five beachside villas, all built from local resources. The chartered boats and private guides – along with every modern amenity imaginable – give guests the option to see Raja Ampat at their own pace, knowing that a luxury resort awaits them at the end of the day. In terms of underwater life, the island is second to none; the nearby house reef makes for leisurely snorkeling, and the resort itself is located at the epicenter of the 300,000-acre Misool Marine Reserve.

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Bawah Reserve

In this issue, you’re going to hear a lot about Bawah. Why? Well, it’s relatively new, ultra-luxe, and a textbook island getaway. Accessed by yacht or private seaplane, this luxury resort comprises a cluster of five islands filled with primeval forest and white sand. At Bawah, reefs are found mere feet away from beachfront suites at an eco-friendly resort that is never home to more than 70 guests at a time.

Having only just opened in 2017, Bawah Reserve has quickly garnered a reputation as the finest accommodation on the map between peninsular Malaysia and Borneo. This unique location makes Bawah an ideal destination to pair with luxe trips to Singapore and Batam Island (the seaplane’s departure point) and allows yachters to explore the lessertraveled coral marvels of Riau Archipelago. Of particular interest to luxury travelers is the in-house service, which mirrors that of the more mainstream resorts found on Bali.

Bawah was built with sustainable resources such as bamboo and recycled wood and with a minimum of modern machinery. The establishment of this resort prevented the encroachment of illegal dynamite fishing, saving the island’s environment.

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Komodo by Boat Komodo isn’t just Komodo; it’s Rinca, Padar, and a whole host of other islands.

Everywhere the island-hopping traveler goes, there’s something to see around the Komodo National Park region. Huge clusters of manta rays? Sure. Pink beaches?

Certainly. Dragons? Of course. But the one thing you won’t find is a luxury hotel with easy access to all of these treasures. When it comes to seeing Komodo, you need a private schooner.

The ideal tour of Komodo passes through Loh Liang Bay. The private schooner should visit Rinca and Padar and will even allow travelers to do some hiking to see deer and buffalo. Of course, travelers shouldn’t miss the obligatory stop to see Komodo dragons within the park, but what matters most is how visitors spend their time after venturing through Komodo. Remote Lands recommends traveling east to the Riung Islands and perhaps even all the way to Mount Kelimutu. But the great thing about having your own private schooner, after all, is getting to chart your own course.

Kura Kura Resort

Karimunjawa itself is a nice getaway, but for proper luxury travelers need to hop on a speedboat and head to Kura Kura Resort. Found just west of Karimunjawa, Kura Kura Resort is a remote private island experience in the Java Sea with firstclass amenities. The suites are well appointed, and the natural coral around the island teems with life. In contrast to roaming about Komodo or doing an all-day dive at Raja Ampat, this hideaway is a tiny slice of Indonesian tropical paradise perfectly suited for relaxation in a tranquil, intimate setting.

Kura Kura Resort’s 20 villas may seem small compared to its Karimunjawa counterpart, but Kura Kura Resort’s Krakal takes the “Castaway” experience to a whole new level. Made for two people to have their very own deserted island, Krakal is found just 30 minutes away from the main resort and offers the ultimate in remote privacy. Travelers should be warned, though, that Krakal is best kept to a one-night experience, as the lack of electricity can cause some to jones for their phones. In fact, maybe take a volleyball for company just in case.

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Catching a Mentawai wave

Kandui Villas The Mentawai Islands boast some of Indonesia’s best waves, and at Kandui Villas travelers can get comfy while hitting a reliable stream of sixfoot swells. Waves up to 15 feet high are not uncommon here and are most consistent around March through November. Almost entirely alone on the little-known Karangmajat Island, the Kandui Villas are an ideal setting for travelers who live to surf.

Travelers should consider visiting the fast and hollow Kandui Left, the easy-breaking Playground, and the Kandui Right, said by some to be the best right-breaking wave in Indonesia. Kandui Villas may not be able to boast the luxury of places like Nihi Sumba, but it certainly has the waves.

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Nihi Sumba Nihi Sumba is the top luxury surfing resort in Asia – bar none. But, it’s more than that. It’s an adventure playground of horseback riding and biking, a decadent chocolate indulgence, a cultural experience, and a fivestar accommodation and dining treasure hidden in a private corner of Sumba Island.

Most famous here is Occy’s Left. It’s not just a good wave; it’s an exclusive wave. Only 10 surfers a day get to try their luck at Occy’s Left, named for Australian surfer Mark Occhilupo. Surfers who catch this wave are in for a 200- to 300-meter ride.

As to the resort itself, Sumba isn’t exactly a tiny, isolated island, but the corner of it into which Nihi Sumba is nestled certainly is, far from any other resorts and found on an isolated beach. A number of on-land excursions are available through Nihi Sumba, including treks to the nearby NihiOka valley, Lamboya, and Blue Waterfall.

Paddle boarding in Nihi Sumba

Kudanil

No one can see all of Indonesia’s islands in one trip, but your best chance involves bedding down on a hearty ship. The Kudanil Explorer is the best new chance to see Indonesia from the water in absolute comfort. With eight specious berths that can accommodate 16 guests, the Kudanil at first glance may not look like a five-star experience, and that’s because it has been adapted from a safety and rescue vessel. While this means it may not appear as outwardly fancay as something like the opulent Aqua Mekong, the Kudanil can go places other ships won’t.

The vessel takes different seasonal trips, traversing Raja Ampat, Komodo, the Spice Islands, Sumba, Papua, and just about every hard-to-reach Indonesian destination imaginable. Surfing and scuba diving are an option during the voyages, and the ship offers floating five-star luxury with no big-box cruise corner cutting.

A crew of 21 in total looks after 16 guests on this adventure through many of Indonesia’s most-hidden spots. Of particular interest is the Kudanil’s journey to Western Papua, a lesser-traveled region, but during the summer it’s best to book the Kudanil for Komodo.

BALI’S AMANDARI NEW EXPERIENCES FOR THEIR 30TH ANNIVERSARY

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man – a staple of international luxury travel and host of the Aman Private Jet Expeditions – are pulling out all the stops at their Indonesia destinations to celebrate the 30th birthday of Amandari in Bali. March and April this year will feature particularly special experiences to accompany the resort’s anniversary. Aman’s first Bali resort, Amandari, opened in 1989, built to simulate a traditional Balinese village. The resort is renowned for its service; there are several staff members that have been around since the beginning and even secondgeneration staff members. Aman only recently celebrated the 30th anniversary of its oldest resort, Amanpuri, late last year. Today, the brand’s accommodations span 33 destinations.

At the Amandari resort, every full moon in 2019 will be commemorated by a special blessing ceremony and moonlit trek. This outdoor experience begins late in the afternoon at the Amandari’s Temple, which is also attended by local villagers.

The purpose of the ceremony is to harmonize the relationship between humans and the world. After the village priest completes the temple blessing, guests are led on a hike through rice paddies and orchards

as the sun sets across the land. The moon will rise as they move through villages in the valley, and after about 90 minutes of hiking, they will reach a prepared picnic site which also features live gamelan music.

As a final celebration of the resort’s 30th anniversary, an Instagram competition will be held.

Whoever provides the best image with the hashtag #Amandari30 will be declared winner and awarded a three-night stay at the Amandari resort.

On the 30th of every month of 2019, the Amandari’s General Manager will be inviting guests to the resort’s bar to enjoy drinks commemorating the anniversary. The scenic bar is an open-air structure supported by coconut-palm columns. The bar’s typical aesthetic will be given an extra touch of life on these occasions thanks to traditional Balinese dance performers.

Dynamic and intensely expressive, these dances use artful footwork to tell the stories of local legends.

These performances are also a testament to the resort’s philanthropic endeavors, as all the performers are trained at a local dance school run by the Amandari.

The Ubud Food Festival began in 2015, and in just four years this three-day gourmet adventure has emerged as one of the preeminent

culinary events in Southeast Asia.

This festival, which is held from the 26th to 28th of April and has always been supported by Amandari, showcases a wide array of Indonesian cuisine.

The festival draws together established and upcoming figures in the culinary world. Guests can walk through the festival grounds or enjoy the Amandari’s own culinary creations, as it will be hosting a special anniversary event that is part of the 2019 festival.

Additionally, various cooking classes will be held at the resort throughout the year wherein guests are taught how to create Indonesian dishes from scratch by the Amandari’s executive chef.

Continuing its commitment to supporting Kedewatan, the Amandari will invite children from Kedewatan Elementary school to the resort every month of 2019 to take an educational walk through the hotel and learn about its various environmentally friendly initiatives, which range from composting and waste management to reforesting and organic farming.

Additionally, Amandari will host an art installation in its library that will feature works by children from the nearby Kesayan Ikang Papa Orphanage. The works will be for sale, and all proceeds will be donated to the orphanage.

A slew of festivals and local holidays in the spring will bring the anniversary celebrations at the Amandari to a fever pitch. Also, there is the Panca Wali Krama holy celebration being held, which lasts from March 6th to April 12th.

Though lasting for over a month, this festival only occurs every ten years.

It is held at the Besakih mother temple, and the sacred event aims to cleanse the universe.

Throughout 2019, Amandari will offer regular Kamasan painting workshops for interest guests. This style is derived from the village of Kamasan, which is renowned for its painters, gold- and silversmiths, dancers, musicians, and puppeteers.

The village’s name has been employed to denote Bali’s most traditional painting style – the Kamasan Painting style. Replete with visual narratives of Hindu-Javanese

epics and other indigenous stories, this painting style is traditionally drawn on cloth or bark paper with natural dyes, and the figures and ornamentations within are typically produced collaboratively.

The Amandari’s special series of painting classes will be led by Bapak Sindu, who will explain traditional techniques and reveal the historic and stylistic meanings behind this iconic Balinese form of artwork.

INTO IJEN

By Jay Tindall

ACID LAKE, POISON AIR

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he air is poison, the climb is steep, and there’s a lake of sulfuric acid in the center of the caldera.

Photography can be a little difficult in the precipitous craters and noxious gases of Java’s Ijen. Volcanoes, it turns out, aren’t great for drones.

On my trip to this curious Indonesia sight – a collection of composite volcanoes in yellow and white – I would find one of the most alien places I have ever visited. To film the Ijen volcano complex turned out to be more difficult and more rewarding than previously thought.

The five-hour train journey to Banyuwangi was on a bogstandard public train, though the view of Java passing by was pleasant enough. The train would take me to my eventual – though brief – resting place of Ijen Resort and Villas. It stands in stark contrast to the sharp

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ridges and alien topography of my Ijen destination, a bit reminiscent of Bali.

The surrounding area includes the bucolic mountains of the Kawah Wurung and the seemingly hairy trees of Benculuk Perhutani. But it is with the cruel, otherworldly sights of Ijen with which most visitors are enamored. With a turquoise lake of extremely acidic water and belching yellow sulfur streaming from rock, Ijen is one of the strangest natural sights in all of Java.

However, it was by forgoing one of the most popular attractions, the blue fire, that I was able to get such spectacular shots in relative peace and solitude. Travelers hike for two hours in the early morning hours to see the blue fire, ignited sulfuric gas that burns at up to 600 degrees Celsius. What many don’t know, however, is

that they’ve only got about a 30 percent chance of seeing the blue fire – missing sunrise from the heights of Ijen.

Instead of waking up at 1am, we chose instead to sleep in an extra hour and a half before driving the 45 minutes to Ijen.

It was a steep but convenient two-hour climb to the top, but travelers should be aware that, even though it’s Indonesia, it’s pretty chilly. The early hour and the altitude mean that travelers need to pack a little heavier than they might expect for the tropics.

As most early morning travelers were down in the crater searching for blue fire, the rim of Ijen’s heights was relatively empty. The drop is sharp and the scenery dramatic, especially when experienced alone. Windy and cold on the volcano’s edge, flying the drone was a little difficult but manageable.

We arrived at the rim of the crater just as the sun was coming up, and luckily the masses of tourists were down trying to see the blue fire. Above the sulfur lake and early morning chill, the air was clear, clean, and ideal for photography.

We had coffee we prepared beforehand on the rim. As the masses of tourists made their way up to the rim of Ijen, we went down. The number of tourists in the crater went from around 100 to zero. We were the only ones in the strange, alien world of the Ijen caldera.

The hike down was not as easy as the hike up to the rim due to one main factor: sulfur fumes.

The gasmask doesn’t always help, and the world around you would go from clear to cloudy in seconds. Occasionally, I was forced to bend over and close my eyes and try not to breathe. A few minutes later, it would be clear again.

Down there, though, in that inhuman world, people were

working. The mining of sulfur is a major moneymaker for the local laborers, and it’s one of the hardest jobs in the world.

Discounting the poisonous air – a hazard some workers braved with nothing more than a cloth around their face – these brave souls load up 90 kilos of sulfur in woven baskets. They tolerate tourists, who are often nice enough to give them some money for their poses, but they are there to perform a job – a job for which they are paid only a few dollars a day.

Pipes are used to smash the yellow rocks from the side of the mountain. Some of the sulfur collects on pipes and barrels put in place oxidize the deadly noxious gas. From there, these laborers put the baskets on the pipe and the pipe on their shoulder and trek it up the unforgiving crater.

It was the least earth-like place I had ever been.

What makes the yellow rock so visually appealing, however, is its juxtaposition of the blue

water of the crater’s lake. It looks peaceful, serene. But, it is, in fact, deadly. With a PH of just 0.15 in some places, this is the most acidic large lake in the world – so acidic in fact that it leaks into nearby tributaries and poisons them with its acid.

After only a few moments of contact, it can burn skin. I was told during my time there of an Indonesian man who went out on a raft in this one-kilometer long lake; others have done so to get PH readings from its center.

With the sun climbing higher in the sky, the lake looked beautiful indeed.

The dust and gas of the crater dried out my equipment, an extremely unfriendly place for photography. It dries on everything. After an hour and a half filming, I was ready to get out. Travelers should be warned that getting out is the hardest part of the journey. The choking sulfur and the gas mask make breathing difficult, restricting it to about half its normal capacity.

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Despite the trying nature of the journey, my only lingering problems were coughing fits that evening and a little dust in my drone’s gimbal – a small price to pay to visit another planet, and certainly a smaller price than those who brave the crater every day. Bright yellow sulfur, gray volcano rock, and a gorgeous, deadly blue pool of acid – that was Ijen.

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LUXURY FOR ADVENTURERS

By Victoria Hilley

Capella Ubud U

bud in the hills of Central Bali has always been an alluring, mystical place.

The emerald green of the rice paddies claimed from the dense tropical jungles stretches to the horizons and temples large and small dot the landscape. Ubud has always been a promise of peace, of comfort and enlightenment.

The same would have been true years ago when the first Dutch colonialists came to the shores of Bali in search of spices and adventure. On that first mission with the Dutch East India Company, only three of the four ships – the Hollandia, the Duiffie, and the Mauritius – survived. Fast forward to today, and Bali is the crown jewel of Indonesia’s thriving tourism empire, and Ubud is a Bali treasure.

Inspired by adventurers and designed by Bill Bensley, Capella Ubud is one of the best new luxury resorts to open in this Bali destination, an extraordinary

dreamscape of mountainside camps deep in the Ubud jungle.

Entering Capella’s arched doorway to the Reception Tent, you are transported to an era that harkens back to the age of colonial explorers. The meticulous attention to detail evokes a sense of seeing something truly unique.

Lush trees cover the expansive property – a true achievement considering Capella Ubud was built without felling trees. There are, of course, paths throughout, but I couldn’t help thinking I would get lost, either on my way to the room or in my own imagination.

I was escorted to my tent – a slightly daunting walk down a steep hill to the river, passing other tents along the way, each one named for the skills required of those early settlers: Baker, Cartographer, Naturalist, etc. There are 22 guest tents altogether.

All-in-all, 186 stairs led down

to my jungle oasis: the Bird Watcher’s Tent. As I crossed the suspension bridge to my private deck, I think I lost my breath for a moment: an infinity pool suspended over the edge and blended with the rich, green thicket. A slight rumbling from the river below and a symphony of birds and insects welcomed me home.

To enter, you need to unzip the door flaps. In fact, visitors unzip the windows as well, opening the accommodations to the extraordinary surrounds. The tent itself was stylishly appointed with every possible comfort – from the chic lounge area and expansive canopy bed to the full bar; yes, that’s right, it’s a full bar with an impressive selection of spirits and beers – all tucked into a nifty Coleman-style esky. The bathroom featured a brass bath alongside the rain shower and a whimsical throne toilet. This is glamping on a whole new level.

Back up the stairs to the main resort area, I pass the spa tents – the Hollandia, the Duiffie, and the Mauritius – named for the eponymous Dutch ships. Sadly, a massage was not forthcoming as treatments must be booked well in advance.

Behind the spa is the extraordinary resort pool, the Cistern, a 30-meter-long outdoor salt-water rainforest pool. The poolside bar hosted an ample selection of gins – always a welcoming sign.

From the pool, guests can meander through the gardens up to Mads’ Lounge, the camp’s main dining room, named after a famed Danish spice trader. Mads’ traveled to the Dutch East Indies at a young age and settled.

In time he picked up the nickname “The White King of Bali” and was a peacemaker and mediator between the local Rajas and the Dutch colonialists.

The restaurant focuses on farm-to-table fresh ingredients, as well as a detectible a la carte breakfast. The second restaurant, located under Mads’, is Api Jiwa – an Asian barbecue-style venue with a fun robatayaki counter. The night that I ate there, the resort was hosting a multi-course wine dinner and the head chef – Chef McCool – was the star of the show. Another fun feature was the camp fire – a charming area that welcomes guests after dinner for apertivos and s’mores.

If I had to pick, my favorite resort haunt was the Officer’s Tent, the resort’s stunningly well-appointed library featuring a wide array of books, magazines, games, a large billiards table, and echoes of colonial curiosities. A true haven, I needed no excuse to partake in the morning coffee, afternoon tea, and evening cocktails; generous G&Ts make this traveler very happy indeed. As a true hotel junkie, I give Capella Ubud major kudos for creating an atmosphere and environment that is both experiential and transformational – unlike any other hotel anywhere in the world.

It is design eye-candy, a piece de resistance brought to us by epic designer Bill Bensley. But most of all, it is in the careful service, in the delivery and warmth of the team, that allows a new era of Bali travelers to walk in the steps of adventurers.

CANGGu

THE CHANGING FACE OF BALI’S DINING SCENE

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ravelers will find no shortage of fascinating luxury travel options on Bali – from the Instagram opportunities to the nature and the cocktails. There was a time when the term ‘Bali belly’ defined this island’s dining scene. Fast forward to today and you’ll find it hard to eat your nasi goreng without doing so in the midst of upmarket restaurant construction. While Seminyak is firmly on every gourmetlover’s radar, it’s rapidly changing Canggu that’s now in the spotlight.

By Nicole Leigh West

FINE DINING Tugu

COMO Uma

The Canggu food revolution has certainly embraced fine dining. For a cultural experience among a collection of romantic Indonesian artifacts, dine at the lavish Tugu Bali. One of the first hotels to bring luxury to Canggu; culinary journeys include gourmet picnics on the sand, complete with an 18thcentury antique bed illuminated by oil lanterns.

The menu at Tugu’s Ji Restaurant is the brainchild of a sushi master and the former private chef to David and Victoria Beckham.

Chef Nyoman Antara trained in classical Japanese discipline, and Chef Colin Buchan spent years in Gordon Ramsay restaurants and as an executive chef in global, Michelinstarred establishments.

In a reconstructed Kang Xi period temple, choose to dine on Smokey Salmon Zaru Soba, at Ji Bale Sutra. Ji Terrace by the SEA offers 180-degree ocean views, with sensuous, red-themed decor and ancient arts including Balinese Barong heads and Tibetan Mahakala masks. Fine wines, a saké bar, and signature cocktails, like the Smoking’ Coco Sexo, complete the gastronomic adventure.

For a modern luxe vibe, the newest star on Canggu’s dining scene is COMO Uma. Executive chef, Dwayne Cheer, previously headed the kitchen at Soori Bali. He serves up everything from woodfired pizzas to whole snapper on the backdrop of Echo Beach. At the COMO Beach Club, diners recline by the pool on swing chairs to the sounds of acoustic musicians and the crashing surf.

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BEACH CLUBS

The beach club scene in Canggu is becoming increasingly glamorous, where dining, drinking and live music are almost secondary to lush surrounds. Overlooking the Berawa surf break, Finns Beach Club has long attracted discerning travelers from across the globe.

Now, its VIP club offers an exclusive hotelstyle experience, with poolside daybeds, free-flow Balian water, complimentary refreshments, and spacious change rooms to effortlessly dress from day to night. For a more

casual, yet classy vibe, sink into a beanbag at The Lawn, with views of Batu Bolong Beach.

An international grazing menu includes mini lobster brioche and cumin chicken nachos.

Meticulously designed by Gonzalo and Sandra Assiego, Spanish-inspired La Laguna enchants with vintage gypsy caravans, private garden seating, lanterns and boho-chic decor.

The sprawling venue serves exquisite tapas and regularly hosts family-friendly events, with themed markets, live music, and movies beneath Bali’s twinkling night skies.

Finns Beach Club

La Laguna

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G u n u n g

L e u s e r

Saving the Great Apes

By John McMahon

D

uring a month-long trek through Taman Negara National Park in Malaysia, my guide explains that orangutan means ‘man of the forest’ in Malay, orang meaning man and hutan meaning forest. But few may know that this term didn’t originally refer to the great apes; it was once the name for the fierce tribes who lived on the islands around mainland Malaysia. Europeans muddled the names and it stuck. Today, even in modern Malay the four species of red ape, found only in Borneo and Sumatra, wear that moniker.

Of the few remaining places in the world where orangutans can be seen in the wild, Butak Lawang just inside the 3,000-square-kilometer Gunung Leuser National Park is the best known, for good reason. In 1973 two Swedish women established the Bohorok Orangutan Center there as the first official orangutan rehabilitation project in the world.

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Gunung Leuser is heralded as one of the most likely places for an intrepid hiker to come across one of the red apes in the wild, and today orangutan tourism is the top draw of the park, which has since been designated “Tropical Rainforest Heritage of Sumatra” by UNESCO, along with Kerinci Seblat and Bukit Barisan Selatan national parks. Ganung Leuser is the only place in the world where elephants, tigers, and rhinos still co-exist with orangutans in the wild.

Owing to its proximity to the major city of Medan, Bukit Lawang is the more popular of the park’s two entrances. Today the once remote village has become a bustling outpost of guest houses and tour companies that specialize in bringing tourists face to face with both habituated and wild orangutans. Once the park’s Bohork River boundary is crossed, the civilized world is traded for jungle, wet and teaming with life.

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Tours from Bukit Lawang range from a simple day-hike along what is known as the orangutan loop – where several habituated females are known to spend time waiting for tourists thanks to feeding from local guides – to multi-day treks. For those with the time and a decent level of physical fitness, the longer treks delving deeper into the forest offer opportunities to get a glimpse of the great apes in their natural habitat: gathering food, mothering their young, and building their nests. Orangutans aren’t the only endangered animal in the park. Longer treks also provide the possibility of seeing wild elephants, sun bears, and even traces of the elusive Sumatran tiger.

Longer journeys stop at fixed camps along the banks of the Bohorok River, where hikers can soak tired legs in the pure waters and enjoy an evening meal of authentic Indonesian cuisine prepared by camp cooks before bedding down under starry skies.

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Unfortunately, the rainforest of Sumatra is experiencing the fastest rate of deforestation in the world. This destruction comes from a combination of destructive fires used to clear jungle for palm oil plantations, the plantations themselves, and human encroachment.

All of this is carving up the rainforest, leaving the park’s animals stranded in islands of habitat, vulnerable to increasing conflict with humans.

The original Bohorok Center suspended its Orangutan rehabilitation program some years ago but continues to function as a tourist attraction where the majority of travelers to Bukit Lawang will eventually make their way to the twice daily feeding sessions. Today the Sumatran Orangutan Society has taken up the orangutan cause by raising money for their own efforts as well as related organizations.

Thomas leaf monkey

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“Realistically, there are no easy answers, and conserving the Sumatran orangutan will continue to be complex work with no quick fixes,” says Lucy Radford of the SOS. Knowing the crisis is rooted in deforestation, the SOS’s projects include educating the public about what is happening in Sumatra.

The Sumatran Orangutan Conservation Program, an affiliate of the SOS, is actively involved in rescuing endangered orangutans.

The program rehabilitates apes rescued from dangerous situations as well as those in captivity and young ones confiscated from would-be traffickers. The orangutans are slowly re-habituated to safe areas of forest; for some this means being taught basic skills again, like foraging and making nests.

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The deforestation and resultant endangerment of the Leuser wildlife, with a special focus on orangutan conservation, was highlighted in the 2016 documentary After the Flood in which producer and host Leonardo DiCaprio visits the orangutan rescue center to learn about the plight of these rarest of the great apes.

At over 3,000 meters, the air at the peak of Mount Leuser is cool and clear and the rainforest canopy stretches out like a vast, unbroken sea of green. To know that herds of elephants, solitary rhinos, and stalking tigers survive alongside the soulful, ginger haired apes of these lands is to believe that it must be preserved.

“The best-case scenario is that there is no further forest loss in Sumatra,” says Lucy Radford. “We believe it is absolutely worth doing and we encourage our supporters to remain optimistic. If we lose hope, how can we continue to fight?”

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SEMINYAK SUNDOWNERS 6 BEST SUNSET COCKTAIL BARS ON BALI’S HOTTEST BEACH

By Elsha McGill

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here’s nothing quite like the Balinese sunset – the sky puts on a real show, with lashings of golden orange blazing with smudges of pink and lilac. There’s no better place to enjoy the show than from one of Seminyak’s vivacious cocktail bars, where happy holiday-goers come together to clink their glasses after another magic day of island life.

Alilia Seminyak

Ku De Ta

WOO BAR

Seminyak’s W Hotel is prime real estate when it comes to sunset cocktails, with the coveted Woo Bar offering one of the most in-demand sunset sessions for those who like their mojitos with a side of party vibes. Starting from 4pm every day, hotel guests, trendy expats, and travelers from across the globe gather in the sumptuous poolside deck to sample W’s signature cocktails, watch the sun go down, and psych themselves up for a big night ahead. The space doubles as a pool lounge, with plush day beds available for hire so you can sunbathe all day before dancing the night away.

ALILA SEMINYAK

Smooth, sexy, and utterly sublime, Alila Hotel on Seminyak Beach offers a luxury beachside location to watch the sun go down after a day of sightseeing or poolside relaxation. The Beach Bar is enticingly nestled against the deluxe infinity pool, with uninterrupted ocean views and the option to grab a daybed or armchair to indulge in one of Alila’s signature cocktails; try the Coco Django for a real taste of Southeast Asia.

As the evening descends, chilled beach music sets the scene for an unforgettable sunset and the hours have a way of melting into one. Alila is the kind of place guests come for one glass of champagne and end up staying for a bottle, so don’t be surprised if you get sucked into the party vortex.

Woo Bar

U Paasha

POTATO HEAD

U PAASHA

The rooftop bar at the U Paasha Hotel is a haven most travelers stumble upon by accident, with nothing to give away its desirability from the frenzied, concrete jungle below. Head to the top floor of this modern, contemporary hotel and you’ll find yourself in an oasis amongst the chaos, where one of Bali’s most outstanding rooftop pools sits alongside a cocktail bar with expansive views across the city all the way to the bay.

The U Paasha cocktail list boasts all the classics plus a few Balinese twists, with 2-for-1 sunset happy hours that make the trek well worth your while. A well-kept secret, don’t be surprised if you have the views all to yourself.

Rivalling nearby Ku De Ta for the title of most popular beach club in Seminyak, Potato Head offers a more sophisticated, stylish setting for your sunset sundowners. The iconic elliptical building was designed by admired architect Andra Martin, who used hundreds of reclaimed 18th century teak shutters to create a modern, tropical inspired version of the Coliseum, resulting in one of the most unique, Instagram-worthy building designs on the island.

Partnering up with ultra-hip VICE Indonesia and other big names in the music industry, Potato Head regularly hosts some of the biggest dance parties in Bali, accommodating a plethora of international DJ acts, but it’s also one of Seminyak’s nightly cocktail hotspots. Located right on the shores of Seminyak Beach, the palm fringed view is accentuated by an infinity pool filled with beautiful patrons, making it ideal for people watching. Choose to sip your cocktails in one of three bar areas, including the Potato Head Bar, Kaum, or the Pizza Garden.

Potato Head

KU DE TA

Ku De Ta is somewhat of an institution in Bali, offering a stylish, ocean-fronted beach club where multiple spaces fuse together to create a vibrant backdrop for dining, swimming, sunbathing, drinking, and dancing.

A place to see and be seen, the bars fill up early as the sun goes down. For a bird’s eye view, head to the upper levels overlooking the pool and lounge area for a scene that looks more LA than Bali.

With a reputation for hosting lively parties that flow well into the night, your Ku De Ta sunset will typically be accompanied with a thumping side of soulful R&B as the venue slowly gets into gear for the night ahead.

Whether or not the party scene is your thing, it’s a great place to sink a few drinks to wrap up your day, with a cocktail list sure to please even the fussiest of aficionados.

Metis

MÉTIS

If rice paddies are more your thing, ditch the seaside and head a few streets inland to Jalan Petitenget, where you’ll find Métis, a Mediterranean inspired restaurant that offers guests a sensory dining experience amidst a lush rice field – and some of the best cocktails on the island.

A sunset stop here is a must and you can choose to sit in the quirky yet uber-chic Métis Lounge or Le Jardin, where you can sip your cocktail in a gorgeous garden setting under tropical greenery with the sweet scent of frangipanis in the air. Do yourself a favor and sample the Passion Fruit Tini, the Metis special blending pure passionfruit puree with vodka for a flavor sensation you’ll never forget.

LEMBEH

By Juanita Pienaar

Muck Diving for the Luxury Traveler

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ulawesi is an odd-shaped island found at the juncture of the Celebes, Java, and Banda seas, and with Manado as its main airport Northern Sulawesi is a growing destination for intrepid divers who want off the normal tourist trail. From here travelers can explore natural beauty above and below the water of Bunaken, the black sand beaches of Malalayang, and the volcanoes of Tomohon, Mount Mahawu, and Mount Lokon. For diving enthusiasts who like to get down in the muck, Lembeh is just a short drive away.

Hairy frogfish

Manado it is the gateway to Lembeh Resort and the Lembeh Strait, the so-called “Capital of Muck Diving.”

Muck diving really is just that: diving in the muck.

Why in heaven’s name would anyone want to do that when there are world-famous coral reefs and clear, blue water not too far away? Because each and every dive is like a bit of a treasure hunt – a possibility to see something you haven’t seen before.

Muck diving is usually conducted in areas with sandy, often volcanic bottoms. At first glance these dive sites might look deceptively desolate and uninhabited, but with the right eye, travelers will find an area that teems with as much life as a reef.

While diving in Lembeh divers can spot rare and unique critters in one convenient muck diving location.

What makes Lembeh different for muck diving is that many of these rare creatures are concentrated in one area. To add to the uniqueness of the dives in Lembeh, divers will find themselves drifting over a dark, nearly black bottom. The sand in Lembeh, like Malalayang Beach, is pitch black.

“The dives aren’t deep, on average around 20 meters, giving the chance […] to have long and relax[ed] dives,” says Florent Horn, a diving instructor who worked in Lembeh for two years, describing the dives as, “mostly made of gentle black sand slopes.”

Blue-ringed octopus

Mimic octopus

The visibility at the muck dive sites is a bit less than one would expect from diving in Indonesia (between 10 to 15 meters on average) due to the sensitive bottom composition. However these sites are mostly protected, with little to no current, creating excellent conditions to spend some time hovering near and observing the unique creatures.

Lembeh isn’t entirely off the tourist trail; there are still some luxury accommodations worth considering. Lembeh Resort is found hidden amongst the flourishing tropical vegetation on Lembeh Island east of the strait. It rests high up on the cliffs overlooking the ocean and a horizon scattered with small islets. Although the resort offers guided nature and village walks and relaxing massages at their in-house spa, the main attraction to Lembeh is the muck diving.

Pink nudibranch

To date the marine biologists at Lembeh Resort have recorded nearly 700 unique creatures on their critter log. The dive sites in the area are home to eight different species of frogfish, including the furry-looking hairy frogfish. Wonderpus, mimic octopus, and the highly poisonous blue-ring octopus are included in the 12 species of octopodes found on the dive sites of Lembeh Strait.

Seahorses and pipefish abound in the area with three species of pygmy seahorses and numerous pipefish, including the intricate and ornate ghost pipefish. The area is also home to the indigenous Lembeh sea dragon.

The dive site Nudi Falls, also known as Nudi Retreat, lives up to its name. A wide variety of nudibranchs, including the squishy-looking sea hare, can be found on the coral bommies, walls, and slopes of this site.

Orange juvenile frogfish

Flamboyant cuttlefish, sea moths, and a variety of shrimp are also hidden among the black sand and coral; this is one of the best dive sites for night dives, conditions permitting.

There is also the opportunity to see mating Mandarin fish, which engage in a fascinating mating dance, usually around sunset. As the sun sets in the sky, a female Mandarin fish approaches a larger male and rests on the pelvic fin of the male; then, the two place their bellies against each other and ascend about a meter off the bottom to release sperm and eggs into the water.

With its black, sandy bottoms, Lembeh doesn’t quite fit into the clichÊd image of a tropical beach paradise. This is exactly why diving in the Lembeh Strait is so unique.

The High Price of

By Jay Tindall

DEATH in TORAJALAND

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In Torajaland, the living owe the dead a debt.

The price is high.

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ulawesi is famous for many things: diving, trekking, it’s volcanoes and beaches. But, Torajaland is known for its dead.

The funerary rites of Torajaland fascinate travelers, namely the famous tau-tau cliff burials with bamboo effigies. But it is the sacrifices that have come to be known as one of the darkest events in cultural tourism in Southeast Asia.

To see the massacre of dozens and even hundreds of animals at a Torajaland funeral is not a sight for the faint of heart. Many may not ever wish to see such a thing.

Mainly, the sacrifice is that of water buffalo – with albino buffaloes the rarest and most expensive – but there are also pigs and horses.

Machete hits throat after throat as mourners sing their barely audible dirges over the screams of the sacrificed. The minimum for a traditional Torajaland funeral is six water buffalo sacrifices. For the people of Torajaland, it is a high price indeed; my guide tells me that some women joke that they don’t want to marry Torajan men because they spend all their money on funerals.

To the people of Torajaland, the more sacrifices mean the deceased will reach their journey’s end faster. Relatives sometimes save for months or years to give their loved ones the best chance.

The sacrifice is only one part of the intense funerary rites of this land. There are also dirges, cockfighting, and the cleansing of the bodies. Death is important to the Torajans, as it is to everyone.

Travelers will notice that the uniquely-styled Torajaland homes are covered in buffalo horns.

Death is a sign of status. But these fantastically grim funerals are more than just a curiosity; they are a crystal clear glimpse into a shared human culture – a past where we all stood together and agreed that we wouldn’t be afraid of the dark.

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Best Bali Beach Resorts T

here are monkeys in Ubud and temples in Uluwatu, but the beach is what draws most to Bali.

With the most developed travel accommodations in all of Indonesia, Bali’s beaches are some of the most popular in the world. And, just because they’re popular doesn’t mean you’ll be overrun with tourists. If you know where you’re going, the Bali beach resorts have something for every type of traveler.

ST. REGIS BALI RESORT, NUSA DUA

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The St. Regis Bali Resort is as opulent as they come, befitting the St. Regis brand. Situated on an immaculate beach in Nusa Dua, meaning the “Garden of Bali,” all areas of this 123 suite-hotel ooze luxury: from the light, airy lobby featuring modern Balinese décor to the 3,668-squaremeter saltwater lagoon – to which the Lagoon Villas have direct access.

Hungry travelers can choose between the resort’s Kayuputi beachfront restaurant, the Boneka

restaurant serving a range of continental food, or the Gourmand Deli, offering a bistro menu with a selection of wines and coffee. For guests wanting to relax over cocktails or an impressive afternoon tea, The King Cole Bar is the place to be.

With a 24-hour butler service and Remède Spa complete with Aqua Vitale Thalassotherapy Pool, the St. Regis Nusa Dua lives up to the lofty St. Regis reputation in one of Southeast Asia’s most popular beach destinations.

W BALI SEMINYAK The W Bali Seminyak hotel boasts 229 rooms, suites, and villas, each one offering either a sea view or a garden view. With a 24-hour fitness center and relaxing AWAY Spa, guests will be able to stay healthy and de-stressed as they enjoy their stay.

With a wide range of eateries and bars on-site, the W Bali Seminyak is the ideal holiday destination for young people looking to let their hair down and have some fun in the sun. Guests can spend the evening enjoying Pan-Asian cuisine at Starfish Bloo, devouring meat and seafood at FIRE, or drinking and dancing on WOOBAR’s skydeck.

From Taiwan to Bali, the W hotels are known for being lively and hedonistic, but there is tranquility to be had as well. For those loving to swim and sunbathe, W offers a 1,790-square-meter outdoor pool, creatively designed to emulate Bali’s well-known rice fields.

After taking a dip in the pool, those looking for an even more calming and serene atmosphere can head to the Oasis, a tropical garden featuring tranquil ponds and a traditional Balinese pavilion.

FOUR SEASONS BALI AT JIMBARAN BAY The Four Seasons at Jimbaran Bay located near the southern tip of the island boasts 156 villas and residences, each with their own private pool. This distinguished hotel has received several accolades of note, the most recent being its five-star rating awarded in the Forbes Travel Guide 2017.

Swimmers and surfers of all ability levels will

love the watersports available at Four Seasons Bali, with classes including heli-surfing and stand-up paddleboarding. Guests can make the most of the hotel’s infinity pool that seemingly merges with the stunning Jimbaran Bay. The sun lounging is also highly recommended for more relaxed visitors, either by the pool or in the bay.

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SOORI BALI

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Uluwatu’s dramatic cliffs don’t need any enhancement, but the contemporary architecture of Soori Bali adds a captivating, eco-friendly twist to the famed sea views.

Designed by award-winning Singapore firm WOHA, the entrance exudes minimalist sophistication, while drawing your eye across an infinity pool to an ocean panorama.

Jutting over the edge of a cliff, poolside wooden cabanas promise lazy afternoons with golden sunsets. However, the views also come with seclusion in one, two, and threebedroom villas set high on the hill. The use

of wood, stone, rattan, and water brings the outdoors in, with open-plan designs, private plunge pools and cabanas, outdoor showers, and on-call butlers for premier service.

Guests can choose to welcome a new day with yoga in The Pavilion, hit the fully equipped 24-hour gym, or browse for books in the library. The spa offers ancient Asian healing techniques in a modern-luxe environment, and there’s also stand-up paddleboard yoga lessons in the infinity pool. For dining, Cire Restaurant serves up gourmet, organic dishes and afternoon tea is available each day in the Sunset Cabana.

AMANKILA

While there is a private beach, the Amankila is more for those in search of privacy.

With 34 separate beach house suites, some of which have private pools, the accommodations at Amankila emanate rustic charm and relaxing beach vibes. The unique architecture of Amankila, inspired by the Ujung Water Palace near Amlapura, gives the guests of this distinct hotel a truly unique experience.

The suites available at Amankila include the Amankila Suite, comprised of two

bedrooms, a terrace, a private pool, and butler service; the Indrakila Suite, with one bedroom, a terrace with sea views, and private swimming pool; and the Pool Suite, featuring a private pool in a walled courtyard for even more privacy. When guests wish to leave the seclusion of their individual beach houses, they can opt to dine at the hotel’s ocean-view restaurant, which makes the most of locally-sourced ingredients or head to the spa for a revitalizing scrub, wrap, or Balinese bath.

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Classic Indonesia This 12-day luxury Indonesian adventure features time spent in Bali and Java and a private cruise around Komodo National Park.

Days are packed with hiking volcanoes, diving coral reefs, and horse-riding along the beach.

DAY 1

Travelers begin their 11-day journey on the luxury resort haven of Bali, continuing to the greenery of Ubud for a visit to an open-air bamboo school before retiring to COMO Shambala Estate or the newly opened Capella Ubud.

Day 2

The first full day in Bali involves elephants and whitewater rafting down the Telaga Waja River. If time permits, travelers will take a private lesson in batik-making before returning to the luxury hotel of their choice.

Day 3

The first stop on today’s itinerary is Kraton Palace, an 18th-century structure inside an old walled city.

Then it’s on to Tembi Cultural House and craft village. In the afternoon, guests head to the 9thcentury Hindu temple, Prambanan, for the famous sunset before being treated to a performance of Ramayana at Trimutri Theater.

Day 8

Java is famous for its coffee so it’s up and over to the MesaStila coffee plantation, and later travelers will see steam locomotives and learn about Java’s Dutch history.

Another day in paradise, visitors receive a monk’s private blessing for luck and longevity and afterward visit the ARMA contemporary art museum. In the afternoon it’s Balinese dance and gamelan.

Day 9

Day 4

Day 10

Leaving Bali behind, travelers embark for the land of dragons: Komodo. Traveling by private schooner, guests will hike on Rinca’s trails and receive an education on the world’s largest lizards who call the island home.

Day 5

Travelers continue cruising Komodo in comfort and privacy, discovering private bays and hidden beaches, snorkelling, and kayaking the day away while an attentive crew sees to every need.

Day 6

Guests disembark from the schooner to explore Java. Travelers will drive out to the magical Borobudur for a stay at the gorgeous Amanjiwo, which lies within view of the ancient city’s nearby stupas.

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Day 7

Travelers enjoy Borobudur, a first-class UNESCO World Heritage site comprising a large stone monument covered in stupas. Guests spend the evening at Amankila.

It’s back to Bali for some beach fun. Travelers sail to Nusa Lembongan on the southeast coast of Bali to spot sunfish, manta rays, and sea turtles, or cruise to Tulamben Bay where the sunken US Liberty serves as one of the area’s best dive sites.

Alternatively, guests can climb the Mount Batur volcano or see it by helicopter.

Day 11

This day is reserved for local culture: ride through rice paddies, visit rural communities, visit a local market, and then create your very own authentic Balinese meal.

Day 12

After breakfast on the beach or in the jungle, travelers board their flight and head home after a dozen days in paradise.

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VICTORIA HILLEY

On Summer Adventures in Indonesia Why is summer the best time for travelers to look to Indonesia?

For Indonesia, the dry season spans from May to September – with July and August being the two absolute peak months.

These months are all about blue sky and sunshine. May, June, and September are arguably the best times to visit, as the weather conditions are idyllic but the number of visitors is not at their highest, so it’s not as crowded.

It is also the perfect time to visit Komodo to see the dragons, and also Sumatra and Kalimantan to visit the orangutans and wildlife that are more easy to spot during the dry season.

When it comes to Bali, Ubud is certainly growing fast.

What is the property to watch in that area?

There are so many great resort options in Ubud, as luxury abounds and the prices haven’t skyrocketed like other destinations. I absolutely love both the Amandari and the RitzCarlton, but the one to watch is definitely the Capella Ubud. The property offers a truly unique tented experience that is both romantic and adventurous. Bill Bensley truly outdid himself with the design; there is nothing like it in the world.

Where is somewhere in Bali that you would consider off the beaten path? Somewhere a seasoned traveler can get away from it all?

I think that Munduk is a great off the beaten path destination.

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Around this area, we love to get clients to travel northern Bali on bicycle.

The route starts from Batukau temple on the foothill of Batukaru Mountain, which is Bali’s second highest volcano.

Today, Pura Luhur Batukaru remains an extremely sacred site for Bali’s Hindu population, and many of the complex’s grounds remain off-limits to visitors for various ceremonies and events throughout the year. The ride is mostly descending, passing through back roads with a few kilometers of gravel roads. On the way you will see stunning views of rice terraces, mountains, and valleys – not to mention seeing farmers who are ploughing, planting, or even harvesting their crop depending on the time of year. The ride stops at the World Heritage Site Sign for a short break with rice terrace views. Jatiluwih Valley offers some of the most astonishing rice terrace agriculture in the world. It’s a sculpted landscape that was meticulously perfected over five hundred years by many generations of farmers who collectively created an intricate infrastructure of dams, canals, and aqueducts to irrigate their rice fields.

While staying in this area, you can learn how the Balinese grow, process, and roast coffee, you can hike through monkey-filled forests, horseback ride to lakes, or just chill out.

Once you’ve got the beach and the rain forest, what destination pairs well with Bali? Is there an obvious logistical choice?

Bali is truly a hub for the rest of Indonesia, and one of our favorite things is to entice clients to look beyond Bali. A full itinerary could include Komodo, sailing on a traditional phinisi schooner to explore the stunning islands; or a cultural journey to Torajaland, where the indigenous people practice fascinating burial rights; or to Sumatra to trek the jungles to spot orangutans; or to southern Java to hike Mt. Bromo or Ijen; or northern Java to explore Borobudur and the coffee plantations and cultural villages; or Sumba – home of Nihi Sumba – that has made its mark working with the local Subanese villages.

The diversity of Indonesia is endless. There are thousands of islands to explore, and with them comes thousands of ethnicities and cultures.

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