Indonesia Issue: The Best Getaways on 18,000 Islands

Page 32

LUXURY FOR ADVENTURERS By Victoria Hilley

Capella Ubud U

bud in the hills of Central Bali has always been an alluring, mystical place. The emerald green of the rice paddies claimed from the dense tropical jungles stretches to the horizons and temples large and small dot the landscape. Ubud has always been a promise of peace, of comfort and enlightenment. The same would have been true years ago when the first Dutch colonialists came to the shores of Bali in search of spices and adventure. On that first mission with the Dutch East India Company, only three of the four ships – the Hollandia, the Duiffie, and the Mauritius – survived. Fast forward to today, and Bali is the crown jewel of Indonesia’s thriving tourism empire, and Ubud is a Bali treasure. Inspired by adventurers and designed by Bill Bensley, Capella Ubud is one of the best new luxury resorts to open in this Bali destination, an extraordinary

dreamscape of mountainside camps deep in the Ubud jungle. Entering Capella’s arched doorway to the Reception Tent, you are transported to an era that harkens back to the age of colonial explorers. The meticulous attention to detail evokes a sense of seeing something truly unique. Lush trees cover the expansive property – a true achievement considering Capella Ubud was built without felling trees. There are, of course, paths throughout, but I couldn’t help thinking I would get lost, either on my way to the room or in my own imagination. I was escorted to my tent – a slightly daunting walk down a steep hill to the river, passing other tents along the way, each one named for the skills required of those early settlers: Baker, Cartographer, Naturalist, etc. There are 22 guest tents altogether. All-in-all, 186 stairs led down

to my jungle oasis: the Bird Watcher’s Tent. As I crossed the suspension bridge to my private deck, I think I lost my breath for a moment: an infinity pool suspended over the edge and blended with the rich, green thicket. A slight rumbling from the river below and a symphony of birds and insects welcomed me home. To enter, you need to unzip the door flaps. In fact, visitors unzip the windows as well, opening the accommodations to the extraordinary surrounds. The tent itself was stylishly appointed with every possible comfort – from the chic lounge area and expansive canopy bed to the full bar; yes, that’s right, it’s a full bar with an impressive selection of spirits and beers – all tucked into a nifty Coleman-style esky. The bathroom featured a brass bath alongside the rain shower and a whimsical throne toilet. This is glamping on a whole new level.


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