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2
DESTINATION INDEX Argentina 1 6 Australia 52 Canada 1 8, 45 Chile 51 China 1 7, 45 Colombia 16 Curugao 42 Denmark 32, 45 England 51 Germany 1 9, 52 Greece 44 Haiti 47 Hungary 86 lndia 47 lsrael 16, 45 Italy 44
At a food festival that lronors indigenous trad'liorrs in Miclroaca,r. Mexico, the rnusical group Dueto Sierra Galvan de CharaplLn pedorms in the colorlul. entbroidered clothlng of the native Huichol people SEE PAGE
5].
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Jamaica17,47 Japan 96 Kiribati 80 Latvia 44 Madagascar 47 Mexico 51, 54 Mongolia 50 Morocco 19 Namibia 48 New Zealand 51 Nigeria 38 Peru 48, 52 Portugal 18, 48 Romania 1 7 Russia 18 Senegal 16 South Africa 45, 68 South Korea 18, 45 Spain 1 7, 51 Tanzania 5l Thailand 26 Turkey 1 I Uganda 46 Vietnam 1 9
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The New Face of South Africa Sixteen yeals alicl
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Soul Food Cover Along the ancient canals of Mexico City's Xochimilco district, vendors sell botanas (snacks) and farmers grow produce.
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All prices and addresses were verified at press time. Alar's format for telephone numbers Includes the country code and an optional prefix to be used when calling from within that country (in parentheses), followed by ihe local number. For every rssue. Afal makes a donahon to Sustainable Travel International's Gold Standard portfol o to otfset the carbon emissions generated by flights taken for the magazine. This issue, we offset '1 0.51 metric tons of carbon emissions. Vrsit carbonoffsets.org to learn more. Please recycle th s magazine.
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AFAR
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FOUNDERS GREG SULLIVAN AND JOE DIAZ
Connecting Travelers and I-ocals
EDI'TO RIAL EDITOFIAL DIRECTOR GREG SULLIVAN DESIGN DIRECTOR JANE PALECEK
wHEN loE nNo I first came up with
EXECUTIVE
the idea of a media company for
DIRECIOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY
experiential travelers, almost everyone
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usked us,
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n.ragazine? Shouldn't you be doing
this
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ASSISTANT APRIL KILCREASE
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Through beautiful imagery and compelling narratives, magazines have the ability to inspire and transport readers. A well-curated mafazine can carry you away to another place and into the hearts and minds o[others. This rs
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8
Contributors
*-a
i\ Brian Paumier &
Per4nders Pettersson
Lygia Navarro
Martin Westlake
The author ofThe
Swedish photo-
At the food festival
"l'm six foot six,
Orchid Thief' and
in Santiago de Anaya,
I
Ncru Yorker, Susan
grapher Per-Anders Pettersson ("The New Face ofSouth Africa,"
Or'lean ("The Softest
page 68) first came
Soul Food," page.54)
ofLandings," page 32) doesn't like to study guidebooks
to South Africa in
discovered that her
1994 to cover Nelson
favorite snacks have six legs. "I tried three
Martin Westlake
different insects, and they were delicious. I really liked the mesquite beetles, which
who has lived in fakarta, Indonesia,
Susan 0rlean
a
staffwriter fbr the
before she travels.
"lt would
be
like
reading up on a person before you meet them, so that you can't just experi-
Mandela's historic election. "Then I got really hooked," says Per-Anders, who now lives in Cape Town. "South Africa is such a big, complex country, with so many
Mexico, writer Lygia
Nlvarro ("Mexico's
are called xarnaes.
Joaquin so
often get some sort of reaction when I walk through markets in Asia," says British photographer (Resident, page 26),
for 2l years. "But when I arrived in the marketplace in the
Trujillo
Photoglaphy team Brian Paumicr'(left) and foaquin
Truiillo
(right) traveled to
Republic ol'Kiribrrti to see the total solar
"Mexico's Soul Food" (cover and page 54). "Brian and I come
eclipse last fuly, the
from really stlong households where
fascinated by other
worlds," says fell, the author of Shoppirlg
and celebratc your
family," says Ioaquin. "When we went to
treated like I was something odd or strange. The people
Virginia Quarterly
he says. "And the
keuiew. "You can
food was unbe-
the traditions, the food, the families eating together on Sundays. It was going bnck to when things
curry at Krua Apsorn
were a little more
restaurant was one
simple," he says.
you might wander
understand more about the passions of the people where you're traveling if you eat the local
lievable. The crab
symbolic of all the apartheid struggles, but there's also a lot ofchange there.
around and not
There's something
food. Insects have
happening on every
strange connotation
corner." Per-Anders also contributes to
for us, but in this area
phy has appeared inTravel &Leisure,
of Mexico, they're
National Geographic
Smithsonian,Time,
food that families
Adt)enture, and Condd
andNewsweek.
have been eating
she says.
"l would
much rather, even at the risk ofoccasional discomfort, go to a place
with a little
bit less preparation and a little more pure openness to the surprise. Sometimes
always be
entirely
sure where you are and where you're going, but I feel like
that's the point of
different culturesit's really different
from Sweden," he says.
"I especially
Iike Soweto. It's the biggest township
in
South Africa, so it's
a
for
generations. Insects
traveling."
are comfort lbod."
wasn't
were very friendly,"
Mexico it was like going back
home--
the moon is another world that's a paltner to ours, but s0 completely different in every way-it's tantalizing. It's like
ofthe tastiest dishes
Brian adds, "When
I've eaten in Asia."
you get an assign-
iust thrilled by its
Martin's photogra-
ment like this, you gotta slap yourself in
Then to see the moon
the face when you wake up in the molning. It's like,'Wow I'm getting pnid to do
eclipsing the sun and taking center stage in the cosmic ballet that surrounds the planet
this?"'foaquin and Brian have contributed photography to
Earth-it's
Nast Traueler.
Food MAY/JUNE 20'10 atar.com
[br Buddhas and The Size ot'the World. "The thought that
that one islirnd yru knowyou'll never get to, but you're
the Neru YorkTimes Magazine, GQ, and
I AFAR
moon captivated his imagination. "As a travel writer, I'm
you respect, honor,
smoky taste," says Lygia, who writes for the Christian Science Monitor and the
of meeting them,"
I
ing Shadows," page 8O) traveled to the
of'Michoacin for
Dusit neighborhood of Bangkok,
Long befole feff Greenwald ("Chas-
the Mexican state
They're very crunchy with a rich, deep
cnce the adventure
Jeff Greenwald
&wine.
mythic possibilities.
an incred-
ibly awe-inspiring and moving sight."
In the Company of Men
Off the Wall in Buenos Aires Thanks, Afar,for your article on
Graffitimundo tours in Buenos Aires (Good Trips, December/|anuary 2010, page 35). We kicked offour trip with this tour and had an amazing time. It's a great way to get acquainted with the city and see street art. -CHRISTINE
best
the Globe, Mtlch, April 2O10,
Page llo).
MARISOL ESPINOSA HOUSTON,'IEXAS
are scattered across the globe.
saAS
a
men in an onsen (comntunal hot a
small
go in nal<ed. But one ofher friends says sintply: ht an onsen, llrcre nre no
barnacle. Shame on yon
got inspired by the moment and
again-
drlmatize the whole thing at the expense of a man who was only doing his iob. Ethiopia is a beautiful country. Do not let the bruised ego of one man dictate your ideas ofwhat a country is and what it represents-no matter how pretty McCarthY was inPret4l inPink.
isolated myself.
And what about children boln Son.re
days I wish my children had the
comfort and security of a nolmal American parent who could confidently point out light and wrong. A four-year-old wants a world of black and white, but mine is all glays-lovely, subtle,
springs in the world.
A Life Less Ordinary
C. KOBER -LINDA NORTHAMPTON,
You ask about the effects of travel
shimmering grays. Since I have found gleat comfort in my gray world, in the long run I think that it will be
(Founder's Notc, Decemberr'Ianuary
good for rny childlen to take
PENNSYLVANIA
When I was young, the most powerful effect of being abroad was learning that I couid live by rules of my own choosing. But now, as I am getting older, I
harder, more philosophical path, but they might not agree.
small costs. It sounds romantic to say you are a global citizen, but in reality it means you really only fit in with a tiny percentage of the world's
Editor's Note: For ntore on the ups
for failing to mention one of the
priuate parts.
(ifnot, in fact, the best) hot
2010, pagc 6).
fol people to
when Andrew McCarthy is the one who trespassed? No tichet = No entry. I guess "Mr. Amlnpoul"'
By embracing the world, I l.rave
into global citizenshipi
DEBRUNO
Editor's Note: writet' Lisa Kataljama
deduce that the guald is at fault
decided to be an actor
anylvherc and whose dear {riends
there is no mention of what the male bather is to do. Please don't folget approximately half of your readers.
toutel on the waA to the tub and then
I believe you, Andrew McCarthy, are the next Christiane Amanpour! Excellent stuff! lspin
so easy
creature who no longer belongs
December'/'lanuary 2O10, page 52),
spring bath) couer up with
to it like
it
Japan's natural hot springs 1stay,
BALTIMORE, MARYLAND
VYS'I'RCIL,
Pretty or Ugly American in Ethiopia?
is
time outside the United States, I have turned myself into a rare
-ERIC
VIA FACEBOOK
Why
While I enjoyed reading about
{'eel its
j
L'. t
':f,:. - .-::i,.
J":,.
population. By spending so much
-PAMELA
a
DORRELL
POR'I'OLA VALLEY,
CALIFORNIA
and dotuns of'global citizenship, rearl our Nomad intervieut utith theater
dircctor Benjamir Mosse (page who
has staged plays
36),
fi'om Shanghai
to Stockholm.
Travel Dispatches Iror Afar's Readers INDoNEStA Stayed in a primitive bungalow in 100+ degree weather with no A/C and limited plumbing just to spend 20 seconds watching mandarin fish mate
NEPAL Felled by appendicitis while hiking the Annapurna circuit and subsequently airlifted off the mountainside at 12,000 feet
FRANCE Discovered that you're golden if you learn the French translation for, "l'm sorry. I don't speak French, do you speak English?"
THAILAND Learned to cook Thai food on a local woman's patio in Chiang Mai
wEsT AFRIcA Learned to love my solid legs
cERMANY Downed several rounds of schnapps with a couple of 60-year-old Austrians
LEBANoN Drank beers and talked about the 2006 lsrael-Hezbollah war with a hip 26-year-old bartender
tNDoNEstA Chatted in ltalian, English, and a sprtnkling of Bahasa, on a dive boat
your article about hot springs around the world (stay, December,'
AFRtcA Hitchhiked through sub-Saharan Africa and talked with locals who were ecstatic about Obama
FtJt Attended a kava ceremony with my husband's Austrian aunt on Beqa lsland
January 20Io, page 52) to places
TURKEY Spent five happy days getting lost in lstanbul
TTALY Invited into a family's restaurant cellar to see their
with lodgings. The BIue Lagoon in Iceland (pictured) is worth the trip even without a hotel clinging
FRANGE Exolained to a man from La Mure that Americans don't all walk around with a Coca-Cola bottle in their hands
MExlco Made lifelong friends in a sleepy fishing village
10 AFAR
CONTACT US: Afar, 40 Gold St., San Francisco, CA 94133, or mail@afarcom. Visit alar.com/blog, where Afar's editors, writers, and photographers share stories, photos, videos, and more. Follow Afar on twitter.com/afarmedia and become a lan at tacebook.com/afarmedia.
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MAY/JUNE 2010 alar.com
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homemade wine, salami, and preserves
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E