Ocean Magazine 69 Kimberley and Australia's NW

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ISSUE 69

DR MATTEO DE NORA TAKING ON THE GIANTS OF THE AMERICA'S CUP

ROCK OF AGES

THE WORLD'S MOST ANCIENT LANDSCAPE

LIVING COLOUR

GETTING THE BEST FINISH FOR YOUR YACHT

CAPTAIN’S LOG

SOUTHERN EXPOSURE WITH MICHAEL GOODING

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RUGGED BEAUTY PHOTOGRAPHERS MICHAEL GOETZE AND JAMPAL WILLIAMSON LET THE VAST AND COLOURFUL KIMBERLEYS SPEAK VOLUMES FOR THEMSELVES. MONTGOMERY REEF The Kimberley Pre-sunrise light over the amazing Montgomery Reef.

We shot this photograph on a recent trip into the Kimberley Region of Western Australia. The reef is subject to incredible tidal changes, rising four metres out of the ocean at low tide. Covering roughly 400 square kilometres, it was best photographed from above.

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PRINCE REGENT RIVER The Kimberley We took this somewhere in the Prince Regent river region. The contrasting red cliffs and green mangroves made this particular landscape fascinating.Â

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SALTY WINGS Salty Wings is an aerial content company, specialising in remote landscapes and coastlines. With the ocean as the central theme of their operation, photographers Michael Goetze and Jampal Williamson capture a unique aesthetic made possible by emerging drone technologies. The medium of aerial photography has been around for decades, however there are several points of difference that this new technology provides. The ability to fly earlier, stay in the air longer and photograph at very low altitudes have helped Salty Wings establish a dream-like visual style, and to push the boundaries of this new medium.

Based in Western Australia, both Goetze and Williamson have a deep love for the ocean, having grown up and lived by it all their lives.

“There is something mysterious and wondrous about the ocean that we are drawn to. Using drones to capture new perspectives of the ocean has opened up a whole new ability to create art, and that’s something we are excited about the most,” they said. The initial intention of Salty Wings was to capture the West Australian coastline, one that is 20,781 kilometres long, and a project that took six months. In 2017 the lads are headed internationally to the South Pacific, America and on to Europe. www.saltywings.com.au

ST GEORGE BASIN The Kimberley The Kimberley region has the biggest tidal movements in the Southern Hemisphere, with a 10-metre difference between low and high tide.

This same landscape was almost completely submerged just two hours prior to this photograph being taken.

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ROCK OF

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LUXURY LODGES, FISHING LOCATIONS, SCENIC FLIGHTS, ECO-TOURS AND THE MOST EXQUISITE PEARLS. RODERICK EIME IS DAZZLED BY ONE OF THE LAST AREAS OF GENUINE WILDERNESS ON EARTH.

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TOURISM WA / HILLARY BUCKMAN

THE KIMBERLEY IS AMONG THE WORLD’S MOST SPECTACULAR AND ANCIENT LANDSCAPES, CREATING A SUBLIME NATURAL SETTING FOR A STUNNING ARRAY OF

WILDERNESS WONDERLAND Clockwise from above: Emma Gorge makes for an idyllic swimming spot when staying at El Questro; Possibly the world’s oldest known cave paintings, the Gwion Gwion or Bradshaws; Horizontal Falls in the Buccaneer Archipelago as seen from above; A closer look at Horizontal Falls, one of the region’s most breathtaking natural phenomena.

he rock making up the cliffs is old. So old, it predates life on earth. Let that sink in for a moment.

“I can’t see any fossils in any of these rocks,” I say to my guide Carly.

“These rocks were formed before there was anything to fossilise,” she replies plainly.

Quite apart from its fame as one of the oldest environments on the planet, the rugged and foreboding Kimberley region of Australia’s northwest has a fearsome reputation for its unforgiving and hostile nature and ability to draw adventure travellers from all over the world.

The sheer cliffs, raging tides, carnivorous wildlife and inhospitable landscape effectively deterred the early Dutch mariners from further exploration, but the region also holds what are possibly the world’s oldest known cave paintings – the Gwion Gwion or Bradshaws.

These exquisite paintings are believed by some researchers to be as old as 50,000 years. Scientists have attempted to date the ochres used in the murals using carbon analysis, but the material is so old, it has become part of the rock. The intricate and detailed portraits depict a group of people long forgotten in the Kimberley. They contrast in style and design to the better known and much younger Wandjina paintings, and have sparked many great debates among experts.

Overland travel in the Kimberley region between Broome and Wyndham via the coastal route can be tough, and should only be attempted by experienced drivers in properly equipped vehicles. These factors have very effectively isolated the monumental rock formations and glorious ancient stone vistas from modern human interference, but thanks to the latest wave of sophisticated luxury expedition vessels, the Kimberley is rated one of Australia’s ‘must see’ travel destinations.

A secret that has been well kept by expert fishermen, pearl divers and missionaries for most of the 20th century, the Kimberley is finally revealing its true wonder to the outside world.

Between May and September every year, a small fleet of expedition and adventure vessels conduct enriching, naturalist-escorted tours throughout the labyrinth of estuaries, waterways and coves. Teeming birdlife, mysterious archeological sites, awe-inspiring landscapes and natural phenomena witnessed by very few Europeans are just part of the seemingly irresistible allure of the Kimberley.

At Talbot Bay, the Horizontal Waterfalls were described by David Attenborough as “one of the greatest natural wonders of the world”. This highly unusual phenomenon occurs as the huge, 10-metre tides ebb and flow between a tiny gap in the ridge within the bay in the Buccaneer Archipelago. It’s possible to fly in by seaplane to get a closer look, otherwise any of the small adventure vessels regularly conduct adrenaline rides through the rapids using high-speed tenders.

The more ‘conventional’ Mitchell Falls are superb cascades, named after the marvellous plateau, and are perhaps the crowning glory of the scenic attractions of the Kimberley. Scenic flights – either fixed-wing or helicopter – are the best way to view these falls and are at their most impressive early in the season before the deluge of ‘the wet’ is fully drained.

The unofficial ‘capital’ of the region is the historic town of Broome. This isolated and remote township has come back to life as a bustling tourist centre and gateway to the great Kimberley region.

From the iconic Cable Beach camel rides to pearl tours, the town is developing a world-class tourism profile, but still retains its rugged, edge-of-the-world character.

Apart from this new influx of tourists, not a lot has changed in the Kimberley.

The pearls still shine like newly polished gems, the mighty barramundi still challenge the best fishers and the Gwion Gwion still survey the land as they have done for thousands of years.

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DREAMSCAPE Clockwise from right: The mythical Wandjina in this ancient rock art represent a rich spiritual connection between man and nature in the Kimberley; True North follows the Mitchell River en route to the famous namesake falls; The impossibly spectacular setting of the Berkeley River Lodge; Helicopter sightseeing gives a special perspective to the UNESCO World Heritage Purnululu National Park (the Bungle Bungles).

WHEN YOU VISIT Small ship cruising has found a solid niche in the Kimberley, with more and more vessels plying these remote waters in an effort to cash in on the accelerating tourism interest in the region. However, with the notorious six-metre tides, patchy charts and tricky currents, local experience comes into its own.

One of the acknowledged preeminent operators is the award-winning North Star Cruises, who recently celebrated 30 years of continuous operation in the region.

“We are very different to a big ship holiday,” said owner and founder, Craig Howson OAM. “Our itineraries are always activity-based and much more suited to travellers who are looking for a holiday that is also a rewarding experience.”

Their luxury expedition vessel, True North, carries just 36 guests in superlative ‘barefoot’ comfort and lavishes guests with such activities as heli-fishing and flightseeing with their onboard jet helicopter, tender exploration into remote tributaries and ecological enrichment thanks to onboard scientists like Dr. Andy Lewis, a leading marine biologist and expedition leader.

Apart from these experiential voyages, visitors to Australia’s northwest can luxuriate at any of the splendid lodges where you can witness an amazing array of wildlife on a safari drive through the bushlands, take a river cruise through the red ochre gorges, a helicopter flight to secluded swimming holes and fishing spots or simply relax and take in the incredible surrounds.

The Kimberley ranked second in Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel 2014 list of the world’s top 10 regions to visit, stating, “[it’s] one of the most sparsely populated regions on the planet and one of the most starkly beautiful, carved by giant gorges, dimpled with deep, cool pools, and home to a coastline that could make Australian East-Coasters weep.”

One recent high-profile visitor to the region was Aussie cinema heartthrob and Tourism Australia ambassador, Chris Hemsworth, who spent time exploring the Kimberley as part of his trip around Australia, staying along the Berkeley River on Australia’s remote north Kimberley coast. The Kimberley is no stranger to celebrity guests, especially after the 2008 film Australia saw Nicole Kidman, Hugh Jackman and Jack Thompson grace the landscape in their respective roles.

Jerry Hall, Sir Bob Geldof, Ewan McGregor, Miranda Kerr and Megan Gale can also add their names to this starspangled roster. oceanmagazine.com.au

“THIS PART OF AUSTRALIA IS ONE OF OUR FUNDAMENTAL CONNECTIONS TO THE DAWN OF TIME ON EARTH” LODGES “Sunset dinners in the Kimberley are an absolute must,” said Hemsworth, “The colours of the skyline there are as rich and vibrant as anywhere I’ve seen, and it is pretty special to see the millions of stars of the Australian outback night sky. We stayed at a beautiful place called Berkeley River Lodge, having dinner each night on a sand dune, barefoot in the desert sand, was pretty cool.”

The Berkeley River Lodge, on an exclusive, privately owned property, is one of the most luxurious places to base yourself. The lodge sits anchored to a sand dune along the Berkeley River, overlooking the stunning Kimberley escarpment, which is a great spot for fishing.

Many of these lodges are so remote, the only access to them is by private air charter, ensuring supreme privacy and seclusion.

Another contender for top honours is El Questro, where privileged guests can explore the diverse and untouched Kimberley landscape with personalised and intimate tours, soak in the Zebedee

Thermal Springs and cruise private gorges, rivers and waterfalls. Guests can explore from the air, on horseback or on foot.

In Broome, the accommodation stakes were significantly raised with the arrival of both Pinctada Hotels & Resorts’ Pinctada Cable Beach Resort & Spa and McAlpine House; both are within easy reach of the town’s attractions and facilities.

Many resorts will offer 4WD safaris to deliver the incomparable experience of travelling out on the remote roads and tracks to admire country few will ever see. Photographers will rejoice in the access to landscapes at perfect times of the day to capture the magnificent vistas for themselves. Otherwise, you can join a tour offered by numerous operators from either Broome or Kununurra to such locations as the UNESCO World Heritage Purnululu National Park (The Bungle Bungles). Tours depart daily from May to September. Or you can see these magnificent formations by either rotary or fixed-wing aircraft from operators like KAS aviation and Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventures.

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PEARLS Strolling along Dampier Terrace in Broome, you know you’re in the expensive part of town. Lined up along the street adjacent to Roebuck Bay are all the big names in Australian pearling: Linneys, Kailis and Paspaley.

Sprinkled among the big-ticket families are more galleries, stores and retailers all catering to the fascination with Pinctada maxima, the Australian South Sea pearl.

Renowned for their size and lustre, the Aussie pearl grows happily in these tidalfed, nutrient-rich waters, producing some of the finest pearls anywhere in the world.

When buccaneer and explorer William Dampier first sailed along the coast on Cygnet in 1688, he collected botanical specimens and a few shells from the beautiful but otherwise desolate landscape.

He returned aboard Roebuck in 1699, but still failed to recognise the rich lode that hid tantalisingly below the waves.

It wasn’t until the second half of the 19th century that pearl shells were harvested for their jewel, but like the mainland gold rushes decades before, pearling took off in a big way and by the 1930s, the prized shell was in danger of becoming extinct, forcing the government to enforce harvesting regulations.

Today, visitors can indulge their passion for pearls by perusing the many square metres of glass cabinet space devoted to the shiny finished product, or immerse themselves in the history and glamour of the tiny bauble.

If you’re interested in seeing how these gems of nature are produced, then visiting a pearl farm and seeing technicians at work, seeding and harvesting, will give you a lasting appreciation of the work that goes into producing these alluring treasures.

Multi-award-winning Willie Creek Pearls offers a comprehensive pearl farm tour oceanmagazine.com.au

including a boat cruise past the pearl farm operations and a demonstration of how pearls are cultured. Visitors can drive their own 4WDs or join one of the regular tour bus departures from Broome.

Before you buy, Bill Reed, director of Linneys, gives some advice on how to choose a pearl.

“There is no such thing as a good quality, large, lustrous, flawless, cheap pearl. So your first decision should be one of budget and then choose a pearl or piece of jewellery within that limit. As a natural product, a pearl will almost always have one or more minor imperfections or a slightly irregular shape. But don’t let this become your primary concern, as lustre is your most important factor.”

It’s no coincidence the Baz Luhrmann chose the stark and rugged landscapes in Australia’s northwest for the setting of his blockbuster movie designed to take Australia to the world. All the elements are there: vast, arid vistas as if from another planet; Animals and plants captured in a prehistoric time warp and an Indigenous civilisation with a rich spiritual culture that has been attached to this land for tens of thousands of years. This part of Australia is one of our fundamental connections to the dawn of time on Earth. A sensation you can touch, breath and absorb – and one that will stay with you forever. www.australiasnorthwest.com

TOURISM WA / HILLARY BUCKMAN

EVENTS The Pilbara and Kimberley host a surprising range of exciting events throughout the year. With consistent fine weather during the mid-year months comes a line-up of fantastic outdoor events showcasing world-class entertainment set against stunning natural backdrops.

Community events are definitely worth a look too, from dusty outback rodeos to colourful community festivals.

From June right through until October, visitors can enjoy such activities as horse racing outback-style, art exhibitions, outdoor concerts, rodeos and night markets. In mid-September, the Shinju Matsuri Festival (or ‘Festival of the Pearl’) takes over Broome. This is the merging of three cultural festivals – the Japanese Obon Matsuri, Malaysian Hari Merdeka and Chinese Hang Seng – to create one allencompassing multicultural extravaganza.

LUXURY KIMBERLEY HELICOPTER SAFARI

Experience the Kimberley, Australia, by private helicopter on an all-inclusive six day adventure.

Stay at Berkeley River Lodge, Kimberley Coastal Camp and El Questro Homestead.

Land on mountain pinnacles to watch the sunset over your favourite cold drink, fish in wild rivers, view galleries of the oldest rock art on earth, soar through gorges and touch down to swim in secret springs and waterfalls. Secure your 2017 luxury safari by contacting us now.

CALL +61 (0) 8 9168 1 101 | BOOKINGS @ HELISPIRIT.COM.AU | WWW.HELISPIRIT.COM.AU

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PARADISE IN THE

KIMBERLEYS

THE LATEST ADDITION TO AUSTRALIA’S LUXURY CHARTER FLEET, PARADISE IS AN EXQUISITE WAY TO CRUISE WESTERN AUSTRALIA’S KIMBERLEY COAST, WRITES SARAH DUNNING.

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his is an exhilarating experience few people will ever have, in luxury beyond anything you imagine in such a remote untouched location.

A truly intimate environment where you may not see other people for days, and you can reconnect with your family and friends.

Recently I was lucky enough to travel to the Kimberleys and experience for myself a week of luxury charter onboard the newest superyacht in the charter fleet, Paradise.

To get to the Kimberleys we took a light plane in a bright pink sunrise from Broome to Derby. From Derby we took a 45-minute helicopter trip where we saw how tidal extremes affect the landscape.

Witnessing a king tide as we flew over Kings Sound, we saw the full effects of the 10-metre tidal range. It

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leaves its mark on the mud flats with a mosaic of salt and deep channels between mangroves. The sparkling turquoise water is deceptive though – if you look close enough you might find a saltwater crocodile, or 10, waiting for prey.

To see first-hand how quickly the water moves with the tidal flow, visit Horizontal Falls. David Attenborough describes them as “one of the greatest wonders of the natural world” and to see it first-hand is breathtaking. The volume and speed as the tide flows through two narrow gaps in the McLarty Ranges (Talbot Bay) is extraordinary – we went via jetboat which is well worth doing.

As the helicopter swooped in over the pristine surroundings of St Georges Basin we got an aerial view of our home for the next few days amid a seemingly endless landscape without another soul in sight.

ANOTHER WORLD Clockwise from above: An aerial view of Montgomery Reef, one of the jewels of the Kimberley; Raft Point, a spectacular rock formation providing Paradise with extraordinary views; Seen here anchored at Sampson Point, Paradise has an array of toys including a hi-lo swim platform.

Finding a five-star floating hotel in the vast surrounding was a pleasure.

Paradise was a glorious sight, as sleek and sophisticated as it was welcoming.

The latest addition to the luxury charter yacht fleet in Australia, this impressive 35-metre Horizon RPH 110 cruises the west coast, taking in Fremantle, Rottnest Island, Margaret River, Abrolhos Island, Ningaloo Reef and the remote and incredible Kimberley Coast.

Designed by Don Blout and J.C. Espinosa, she is sleek and spacious, boasting a superior level of opulence and exquisite overall finish. Specifically designed for regions of shallower water, Paradise has the Muir windlass system installed to provide optimum anchoring ability.

Paradise features accommodation for up to 10 guests in a five-stateroom layout with a main deck, full-beam master and four guest staterooms below deck. Each stateroom has its own ensuite and hightech AV and entertainment. Interiors are a fascinating blend of materials – dark timber, teak, marble, silver and leather – drawing from an earthy palette of ochre, brown and grey.

THE TURQUOISE WATER IS DECEPTIVE, IF YOU LOOK CLOSE ENOUGH YOU MIGHT FIND A SALTWATER CROCODILE The main saloon is welcoming and warm, with large L-shaped sofa seating, while the adjacent formal dining area gives a grand sense of elegance to any occasion. The fully equipped commercial galley is capable of meeting the demands of entertaining large groups onboard.

The flybridge level can seat up to 20 guests and the Jacuzzi is a welcoming sight to soothe the body and revive the soul.

The professional crew of Paradise were friendly and attentive. From dealing with multiple dietary requirements to fishing, crabbing and finding out about local customs, their passion for the Kimberley environment added real colour to the trip.

Everything on your charter is able to be personalised and you can design your own journey or let the captain design it for you. Our captain arranged an extraordinary array of activities so we spent every day exploring and enjoying everything the Kimberleys and Paradise offered.

There is onboard equipment for exercising, an array of watertoys which launch from the massive hi-lo swim platform. Enjoy some of the best fishing around, kayak or take an adventure by ship’s tender and explore the pristine wilderness, or swim in remote billabongs with no one else around, safe from crocodiles.

Or maybe, taking the time out from your hectic schedule to relax and gaze

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at the passing landscape from any of the deck spaces or beach club at the stern.

The rawness of the Kimberleys can be overpowering. Your senses are constantly being overwhelmed by the sights and sounds. The sight of crocodiles and sounds of early morning birds. Walking in areas where no one else may have walked before. Seeing Aboriginal rock drawings at Raft Point after walking through bush with lizards and Boab trees in abundance.

You also get to choose who is onboard through chartering the entire yacht, unlike some other Kimberley charters. With up to 10 berths this ensures you have an intimate trip which allows you to spend time with friends and family.

Onboard Paradise there is plenty of lounging space either around the living areas or in each of the spacious bedrooms for each guest to have some quiet time to read or rest. Then on the flybridge from the Jacuzzi, you can gaze out at the vibrant sunset with champagne in hand.

For me, I felt exhilarated, re-energised and humbled by the environment. It was a trip of a lifetime and in the comfort and style of a truly exceptional yacht.

Excuse the cliché but really it was a trip in paradise on Paradise. www.australiansuperyachts.com.au/ charters/my-paradise

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Watching Montgomery Reef emerge with a rush of water pouring from it. Giant turtle heads popping up every now and then and birds opportunistically taking advantage of stranded fish.

It’s a time to talk and reconnect with friends and family and a time for silence.

Being still and allowing yourself to feel this experience might just be what you need to recharge your batteries. Convening with nature in amongst some of the most spectacular scenery in the world can do that for you.

Being in a location where you are often on your own in the untouched and wild landscape doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the food and wine that you can find in a Michelin-starred restaurant. You choose.

Yes, you can request your own menu and wine list or leave it up to the competent chef on board.

On our trip we had a variety of dietary requirements including gluten-free, vegan and seafood allergies. Every meal we had catered for all requirements and was delicious. Three-course dinners under the stars or a barbecue on the beach Aussie style. The choice is yours.

ANCIENT SITES Top: Aboriginal rock carvings are a bush walk away at Raft Point. Left: Paradise features accommodation for up to 10 guests in a five-stateroom layout with a main deck, full-beam master and four guest staterooms below deck. Each stateroom has its own ensuite and high-tech AV and entertainment.

Below: Diners onboard Paradise can request their own menu and wine list.