Terra Travelers Fall 2022 Vol. 13

Publisher’s Letter

TERRA TRAVELERS

Being The Right Kind of Traveler

The long-term health of the travel industry is sometimes threatened by what amounts in many cases to self-regulation. Tour operators and cruise lines operate without a great deal of oversight, even in the face of legal regulation and social pres sure. Fragile environmental systems face the consequences of increasing numbers of affluent tourists, and climate change now hangs heavy over many destinations. The ivory trade threatens the very existence of the planet’s largest mammals as thousands of elephants and rhi nos are slaughtered for trinkets and pseudo medicines.   There are still porters in Peru and Tanzania who continue to work under in humane conditions. Men from the United States travel to Thailand, Guatemala, and central Europe for encounters with underage victims of the sex trade. Environmental degradation, trafficking in human slavery, the exploitation of animals, and cheap labor are all intersected at some point by travel.

In many cases, the real cost of the environmental impact is “off-bal ance-sheet” - absorbed by the envi ronment rather than by the traveler. The cumulative effects often show in places where we least want to

observe the impact of humanity.

As travelers, it is our responsibility to be aware of the issues involved and to be ingenious enough to help develop and practice countermea sures. The sustainability of travel depends on our willingness to travel more lightly and our willingness to require our partners in travel to develop more sustainable practices.

Many might argue travel is itself a part of the problem.  The footprint of tourism is heavy and deep and our impact on some very fragile environments is significant.  Yet, it is balanced by the opportunity for millions of people to acquaint themselves with new cultures, new ways of thinking, and an expanded vision of being a world citizen. We can only hope. We can certainly do our part in playing a positive role to offset the negative influences of travel and tourism.

This is the promise of gradual evo lution to more sustainable travel. As good travelers, we can be an important catalyst in the trans formation of our industry from a 19th-century model to a 21st-cen tury ideal.

EXTRAORDINARY FINDINGS IN TRAVEL

Publisher Richard B. Earls

Editor Elizabeth Cody Authors Nadia Ali Travel Hippy Sue King

Sarah Jean Stewart Marcia Frost Hal Peat Steve Winston Lesley Stones

Editorial & Creative Design Caroline Keane

Marketing Executives Randi White

Service Erin Von Scherrer

Research

60Second Geography

La Fortuna and Arenal in Costa Rica

Arenal Volcano National Park is one of the top attractions in Costa Rica, and the small town of La For tuna is a great introduction to the region and to Costa Rica as a whole. La Fortuna is the base for most visits, and the spectacular vistas of Arenal and the abundant wildlife make it a splendid way to begin your explora tions of the area.

There’s a reason that La Fortuna remains one of the most visited points of interest in Costa Rica. Simply put, it is paradise. The village is a “fortune” of relaxation and allows the richness of the local life to wash over the traveler. With a magnificent volcano as a backdrop, La Fortuna’s lush natural surroundings and laid-back atmosphere lets the traveler settle into a worthwhile vacation. The main attraction of La Fortuna can’t be missed, as it dominates the view from the town. The peak of the Arenal Volcano (5,480 ft) is only 6 miles from La Fortuna and is a sight to behold. Located within the Arenal Volcano National Park (Parque Nacional Volcan Arenal), which offers up hikes and tours through the forests and jungles surrounding the volcano.

Along with panoramic views of the surrounding beauty of La Fortuna, activities are plentiful here. The trav eler can zipline through the canopies of thick forests, adding a bit of adventure to their vacation. Horseback riding lets visitors see the terrain from close up. For relaxation, the hot springs in the area allow for a natural way to de-stress from everyday life. The waters of the area provide opportunities for fishing, kayaking, and white-water rafting.

Costa Rica, meaning Rich Coast, is already a top choice for a good adventuresome travelers. Add on a trip to La Fortuna, The Fortune, and the wealth of experience from visiting the Arenal area is more than worth the visit.

Park Road Trips

River Cruise

When you think about going on a cruise, do you dream of an intimate boat that offers scenic sightseeing passing through gorges, sights like castles and pyramids, and viewing the local culture on both sides of the ship? The only type of cruise that can offer you this is a river cruise. These are becoming more popular as it offers a chance to immerse oneself in a destination not only by the scenic route but also onboard, where activities are specifically geared towards the river upon which you sail. Choose from popular river cruises down the Rhine River in Germany to the Yangtze River in Shanghai.

The Rhine, Germany

The Rhine starts in Switzerland and goes all the way through Germany, entering the English Channel through the Netherlands. It offers views of what can only be described as fairytale medi eval castles and churches with spires that create an atmosphere of days gone by. Here you will see the Marksburg Castle, high on a hilltop in Braubach, Germany, with its twisting passageways and knight armories. Look for the deep slate rock called Lorelei, which holds famous German folklore about a girl who bewitched sailors. It is said if you listen carefully you’ll hear her sing. The Rhine cruise also has various stops where you can visit the birthplace of Karl Marx, walk amid the fauna of the Black Forest, visit the magnificent Cologne Cathedral and even shop in the Christmas mar kets in December.

The Nile, Egypt

A cruise on the Nile River, which is dubbed the father of African rivers, is one of the longest rivers in the world. The ancient waterway meanders through Egypt, giving views of the pyramids and temples. The best time to go is between December to March of any given year because of the extreme heat. Most cruises sail between Luxor, where the Valley of the Kings, and the Valley of the Queens is to Aswan in southern Egypt. The Temples of Philae can be found south of Aswan, where the forecourts, and columns lead to an inner temple that dates back to the Byzantine age. The Nile cruise takes you on a journey through ancient Egypt’s history and civilization.

ix of the World’s Most Romantic River Cruises

By Nadia Ali

The Danube, Germany

The Danube starts in the Rhine Valley in the southwest of Germany in the evergreen Black Forest. It then flows west to east, where it empties into the dramatic Black Sea delta. The cruise takes you through no less than eight countries: Austria, Bulgaria, Croatia, Germany, Hungary, Romania, Ser bia and Slovakia. May to September are the best months to go, making use of the longer summer days to take in all those inspiring views.

Mississippi, USA

The Mississippi River is the second longest river in the USA, traveling through 10 states. The cruise boats are quite spectacular in their own right from four-story steam paddleboats modeled after the Victorian boats of the 18th century. The cruises are generally split into two areas the upper cruise and the lower cruise. The upper cruise is based around St Louis, Missouri, St Paul, and Minne sota. Passengers get to view the undulating hills and lush landscapes to view historic mansions, galleries, museums, pottery workshops, breweries, wineries, stables, and the haunts of the great Mark Twain. The lower cruises, which includes New Orleans, and Memphis, offers good weather throughout the year. These cruises will take you through soulful Creole French quarters to see grand mansions, civil war relics, listen to jazz and blues music, and of course to experience Elvis Presley’s Memphis.

Amazon, Brazil

Cruising the Amazon, the longest river in the world, is bound to bring about an amazing experience. It runs from Brazil, Colombia, and through to Peru. The vast biodiversity includes everything from teaming wildlife to spectacu lar views. A majority of the boats that service the area are not huge in fact, they accommo date about 30 passengers at a time. The most popular area where the cruises take place is an area known as the Reserva Nacional Pacaya Samiria, which is the largest reserve in Peru. Here you will find various themed river cruises that offer excursions and expeditions for those with a sense of adventure.

The Yangtze, Shanghai

The third longest river in the world is the Yangtze. Located in China, it runs through 11 provinces from Qinghai to Shanghai. It fea tures a 3-4 day cruise on luxury cruise boats down the Yangtze to the haunting scenery of the Quatang, Wu, and Xiling Gorges, which are most famously known as the Three Gorges. They stretch along 120 miles of the Yangtze, offering spectacular views on both sides of the boat of misty mountains, ancient monasteries, tall green cliff sides, and shrines. One can also take in views of the natural wildlife such as pandas, Chinese alligators, and Chinese River Dolphins. The Three Gorges Dam is home to the world’s largest hydropower project known as the Three Gorges Dam.

Bogota

A Guide to Colombia’s

Underrated City

Colombia’s capital city, Bogota, has emerged from its dark days of crime and gang warfare to become an exciting desti nation for travelers. Although the country’s civil war had dimin ished in previous years, it wasn’t until 2016 that a total ceasefire was announced. After decades of Colombia being off-limits to tourists, the country was open for business.

From cool cafes to wonderful street art and impressive museums, my visit to Bogota was a revelation. I stayed in La Candelaria, the historical heart of the city. and loved exploring the precipitous streets which are perched on a hillside. Wandering around during the day felt safe, and the locals I met were friendly and helpful. A little caution is advisable, but that could be said of any major city of the world. Bogota’s neighborhoods are diverse - ranging from ritzy La Zona Rosa to funky Chapinero. Additionally, the city is becoming known for its lively bar and club scene. Bogota has risen from the ashes to become one of South America’s most dynamic cities.

Explore the Neighbourhoods

La Candelaria, Chapinero, and La Zona Rosa are the three most popular areas of the city for visitors to stay in, and each has a unique vibe of its own. La Candelaria brims with historical buildings, museums, and art galleries. Wander ing through the hilly cobbled streets of the area feels like being transported back to an earlier era. Vendors set up stalls selling trinkets and traditional Colombian Wayuu bags while crowds gather around street entertainers. The impressive Bolivar Plaza is at the historic heart of the dis trict and is surrounded by grand government buildings. Chapinero is situated in the northeast of the city and is Bo gota’s hippest district. With its vegan eateries, head shops, and cool cafes, it buzzes with atmosphere day and night. Additionally, it is home to Bogota’s expansive LGBTQ scene and is often referred to as Chapigay. Theatron, the largest LGBTQ club in South America, is located in the center of Chapinero. The area of Zone G is a heaven for food lovers, with cuisines from all over the world repre sented and prices to suit every budget.

La Zona Rosa in the north of the city is crammed with restaurants, bars, clubs, hotels and designer shops. There are no shortage of dining options to choose from, and restaurants range from Mexican cantinas to French bistros. La Zona Rosa is very much a party hub, and both locals and tourists are drawn to the area for its vibrant nightlife.

Because it has a more international vibe than other areas of the city, prices tend to be a little higher.

Take in some Culture in Bogota’s Museums

Don’t overlook Bogota’s museums, which are either free or cheap to enter. They are also surprisingly impres sive. My personal favorite was the Gold Museum in La Candelaria, where visitors are treated to three floors of amazing pre-Hispanic treasures. The exhibits consist not only of gold but also of pottery, wood, shells, and stone. Beautifully curated, there are signs are in both Spanish and English which explain the importance of gold to the indigenous people of the pre-Hispanic era.

The National Museum is located in the neighborhood of Santa Fe in a former prison. Many of the cells have been transformed into exhibition rooms, offering added inter est. Dedicated to the art and history of Colombia, there are around 40,000 pieces to see, from pre-Hispanic artifacts to modern-day exhibits. It’s something of a hotchpotch, yet there is much of interest, and there’s also an attractive courtyard and café for refreshments when you’ve done the rounds.

Fernando Botero is Colombia’s most renowned artist. His quirky art can be seen at the Botero Museum in La Can delaria, just a block from the main square of Plaza Bolivar. Botero paints whimsical rotund characters which are very distinctive in style. In addition to his own work, there are paintings by Picasso, Dali, and Monet, along with a Henry Moore sculpture. Situated in a beautiful colonial building, the exhibition rooms surround a lovely courtyard.

The plain exterior of Museo Santa Clara, a 17th-century church, doesn’t give any indication of the beauty which lies within. Also situated just off Plaza Bolivar, the church has been transformed into a museum that is brimming with well-preserved religious relics and paintings. Thank fully, its transformation doesn’t detract from its magnif icence as a church. The design of the walls, ceilings, and altar are incredibly elaborate. Additionally, the museum has interactive exhibits and information which explains its history and architecture.

Hike up to Mount Monserrate

Mount Monserrate is probably Bogota’s most famous landmark and offers panoramic views over the city. It’s a tough 1.5-hour climb to the summit, but for those who don’t feel up to the challenge, there’s a choice of either a funicular or cable car to make life easier. When you arrive, a sculpture garden depict ing Christ’s resurrection leads the way to a small 17th-century church. Additionally, there are a few restaurants and food vendors, along with an array of market stalls. It’s particularly busy on Sunday morn ings when locals attend the church for mass.

The plain exterior of Museo Santa Clara, a 17th-century church, doesn’t give any indication of the beauty which lies within. Also situated just off Plaza Bolivar, the church has been transformed into a museum that is brimming with well-preserved religious relics and paintings. Thank fully, its transformation doesn’t detract from its magnif icence as a church. The design of the walls, ceilings, and altar are incredibly elaborate. Additionally, the museum has interactive exhibits and information which explains its history and architecture.

Street Art Galore

Bogota is something of a street art mecca. The scene began to flourish in the nineties, powered by the fallout of the civil war and the widespread poverty that ensued. The plight of the people was expressed in street art, which sprung up all over the city and has flourished ever since. These days, the street art scene is chaotic, colorful, and captivating. In ad dition to political art, much of the work is fun and frivolous. One of the highlights of my visit was taking the excellent Bogota Graffiti Tour in La Candelaria. The tour is free, but donations go towards support

-ting street artists. La Candelaria is home to the highest concentration of street art in the city, and there’s an artis tic marvel around every corner. Shop owners commonly commission street artists to adorn their buildings, and the streets around Parque de los Periodistas are a riot of col or. Stinkfish and Guache are just two of the outstanding artists whose work can be seen there. Other areas worth checking out for their spectacular street art are Avenida El Dorado and Distrito Graffiti.

Take a Stroll in the Park

Parque Metropolitano Simon Bolivar is the green lung of the city and the place where locals come to chill out, celebrate birthdays, take a stroll or simply

escape the mayhem of Bogota. Not only is it clean and well-maintained, but it feels safe. With its walk ing and biking paths, it’s ideal for exercise. The focal point is a large lake situated in the middle of the park where boats can be hired. The park also plays host to a large number of events and festivals throughout the year, including an annual free international rock concert.

“These days, the street art scene is chaotic, colorful, and captivating.”

National Park Road Trips From

Jaco Beach

By: Sarah Jean Stewart

Costa Rica is home to 30 beautiful National Parks, and with ecotourism being the backbone of the country’s economy, it’s no surprise that 25% of Costa Rica is protect ed land.

In even the first moments of the taxi ride from the San Jose airport to Jaco Beach, I was mesmerized by the beauty around me - beautifully blooming plants (even in the dry sea son), an array of birds to spot, and lush mountain scenery.

The other thing that caught my attention on the drive was the number of signs pointing the way to Parques National (National Parks). As a photographer and nature lover, I was both surprised to see how many parks were being referenced in such a short drive and excited to start researching all the National Parks within driving distance of where I would be staying in Jaco. My goal? To pick the best candidates for great photos, hiking, and unforgettable experiences!

Carara

The first park we decided to visit was also the closest to

Jaco - Parque Nacional Carara. Carara seemed a good choice not only due to the proximity but for the insane amount of biodiversity, with over 400 confirmed bird species alone. Just as we were pulling up to the park, a pair of scarlet macaws flew overhead with their characteristic squawk loud and clear. This felt a good sign for wildlife spotting ahead!

Planning for a couple of hours of hiking, we brought only the essentials - cameras, phones to take video, and a gi gantic bottle of water. To my surprise, when we went to buy our tickets at the kiosk (which can also be purchased ahead online), we were told that we couldn’t bring our water in - no plastic bottles are allowed in Costa Rican National Parks! While this was a bit of a shock, and the thought of a long hike without water wasn’t a great one, I was absolutely delighted to see environmentally conscious rules in place.

Before we went on the trail, there was a guide offering his services, but since we had only a short time available, we decided to make a go of it alone and hope we were lucky enough to see animals without him.

*Capuchin Monkey family on high branch of a tree shutterstock

Literally the moment we stepped onto the trail, we were greeted by an anole assessing us from a post. Soon after, an iguana skittered by. The air was thick with humidity, and the sound of cicadas was ever-present. Perhaps the most exciting sight though was the lines of leafcutter ants marching across the path, carrying clipped foliage and reminding us to watch our step as we went.

As we moved along the trail, we would stop to view the wooden animal carvings along the path, learn more and more about the park with each new interpretive panel, and keep our eyes peeled for new critters!

As the hours ticked on, we listened to the sounds of insects around us, spotted countless birds and reptiles, and giant Kapok trees, and got excited about every new colorful butterfly that flitted by.

Due to an overdeveloped sense of adventure leading me to not check the trailhead map, the phrase “Don’t worry, it’ll circle back around!” started to get a little old to my hiking compan ion, but eventually, we found our way back to the beginning of the trail before the park’s closing at 4:00 pm, where were quite excited to get to our water bottle!

Overall, Carara was a beautiful park with incredibly well-main tained trails, only moderate slopes and occasional stairs, and plenty of biodiversity for the nature lover or photographer in your group.

Volcan Poas

Our next national park stop may have been a bit of a stretch when it comes to the meaning of “day trip” for most people, but certainly not outside the range of reasonableness for me, and well worth the trip!

A beautiful drive from Jaco, through the San Jose area, and then beyond, Parque Nacional

Volcán Poás is home to the active Poas Volcano, which rises over 2700m above sea level and has erupted 40 times since 1828, with the last eruption in 2017. But don’t let that scare you away - it was definitely worth the visit!

As we set out, I put my travel buddy in the driver’s seat so I would be free to get footage and take notes. Along the way, we stopped at “Crocodile Bridge” in Tarcoles to see the massive crocs, fuel up on caffeine, and chow down on some delicious Costa Rican food. We were already having loads of fun, but the nearly two-hour drive had just begun!

*Scarlet Macaws in their nest in Carara National Park, Costa Rica

Our next notable moment came when we passed the San Jose airport and started to realize that our mapped route actually took us straight through the city of San Jose instead of around. My poor, sweet travel compan ion (who was already nervous about driving in Costa Rica), told me not to worry as I apologized profusely for my poor navigation as cars randomly merged into our lane, horns beeped around us, and pedestrians skittered about. We made it out unscathed, but both agreed that driving through the city was not for the faint of heart!

Our next notable moment came when we passed the San Jose airport and started to realize that our mapped route actually took us straight through the city of San Jose instead of around. My poor, sweet travel compan ion (who was already nervous about driving in Costa Rica), told me not to worry as I apologized profusely for my poor navigation as cars randomly merged into our lane, horns beeped around us, and pedestrians skittered about. We made it out unscathed, but both agreed that driving through the city was not for the faint of heart!

As we continued on, getting closer and closer to Volcán Poás and making our way higher and higher in elevation, our surroundings began to look more and more like a paradise. As the elevation went up, the temperatures went down, allowing for an abundance of colorful flowers and cascading bromeliads not seen in lower areas due to the high heat of the dry season.

As we drove our last thirty minutes, I read up on the park and realised that there was a very good chance that the reason we were going - the two giant craters full of stunning blue mineral enriched water - were of ten not visible at the time of day that we would be there due to cloud cover. We were driving all this way, with the possibility of seeing absolutely nothing. But we’d come this far and, at the very least, I would have plenty of plants and animals to see.

We arrived at the park, following very well-marked signs, and headed to the visitor’s center. To our sur prise (having not done much research ahead of time), we were handed safety gear and ushered into a presen tation on the dangers of the volcano and where to take shelter in the event of an eruption. Needless to say, my travel buddy looked slightly less than impressed with my choice of destination!

We were split into timed groups, marked by our color of helmet, to follow the path to the crater viewing area. We crossed our fingers as we walked, hoping that we would not have our view obstructed by clouds as I took in the sounds of tropical birds and the sights of beauti ful flora all around us.

As soon as we got to the platform, it was quite clear that, although there may be a small risk to the visit, it was far outweighed by the reward. We were greeted with a stunning, crystal-clear view of the craters, and it was like nothing I’d ever seen. The striking color of the water, the vents exuding steam, the cool air due to elevation, and the sheer vastness of it all.

I took some time on the way back to the car to photograph plants and lichens, as well as visiting the sprawling gift shop. Although Parque Nacional Volcán Poás was only a short visit, it was well worth the drive, a stellar place for landscape pho tos, and offered up an unforgettable experience.

Manuel Antonio

By far the most popular Costa Rican National Park (although also the smallest in size), Manuel Antonio is a short one-hour drive from Jaco and boasts as many as 150,000 visitors per year. Because of the extreme biodiversity that we might miss without, we decided to book a guide to walk us through the park and were excited to see all it had to offer.

As we set out south from Jaco, we could already see that the drive itself would be part of the epic adventure, with macaws overhead, groves of palm trees as far as the eye could see, and a warm breeze blowing through the windows.

We were set to meet our tour guide at El Avion, an incredible unique restaurant built around a Fairchild C-123 plane. We stopped in for a delicious meal with an incredible view of the surrounding ocean and forest before following our guide on the short drive to Manuel Antonio.

When we reached our destination, I couldn’t have been more delighted. Outside of the park was a market full of souvenirs, crafts, and even fresh coconut water. But even more exciting was the entrance to Manuel Antonio. As we waited to get through security (yes, every visitor to this park must pass a se curity checkpoint similar to the airport), we were surrounded by adorable white-face capuchins running across the power lines and playing in the rafters - certainly a stellar start to a wildlife spotting trip!

As soon as we crossed the gates, the fun began. We could feel

*Aerial

the dense humidity - by far my favorite type of weather - and hear the sounds of wildlife around us. We were immediately grateful for our guide, as he started spotting magnificent creatures right away and allowing us to look up close with his scope. Lucky for us, this guide happened to be a master nat uralist and a university lecturer, so we were treated with the fun animal facts I could fit inside my head every single time I asked. As we went along, we discovered sloths, rare lizards, bats, frogs, and more while we listened to howler monkeys in the distance and watched our guide expertly capture photos to send out to the group later.

After several hours of animal spotting, we made our way to the white sand beaches, where we parted ways with our guide and were left to explore on our own. Although I didn’t bring a swimsuit, the beautiful, clear, tropical ocean water was calling my name, and a lack of a swimsuit certainly wasn’t going to stop me. I took off my socks and sneakers and sprinted into the ocean in my hiking clothes, frolicking like a child for a while before floating on my back to feel the sun on my skin.

Next, we carried on for our exploration, me in dripping wet clothes, watching tiny crabs skitter across the sand, climing the viewing tower to survey the surrounding beaches, spot ting an agouti deep in the forest (a new animal for me), climbing a mountain staircase to reach a lookout revealing sweeping ocean views, and then meandering back to the gate via the mangrove boardwalk.

We ended our day with fresh coconut water and a delicious meal from a nearby restaurant, chatting about how it was very clear why Manuel Antonio and its sheer magic of nature is so incredibly popular with tourists and locals alike.

With three parks under our belt, each different from the next, we had gained a deeper appreciation for the Costa Rican environment and its many inhabitants. With these parks just a stone’s throw away, Jaco was the perfect home base for a won derful exploration of the beauty and diversity of Costa Rica.

*The crater and the lake of the Poas volcano in Costa Rica

H I S T O R

H

ilton Hotels You

Must Stay at in Chicago

Marcia Frost

In the 21st century, Paris Hilton may be the most famous one in her family, but the surname was originally made famous by her great grandfather. Conrad Hilton was the founder of a company that would re main a premium part of the travel industry for centuries. He bought his first hotel in 1919, but it was 1925 that saw the first hotel to have his name, Dallas Hilton.

The first Hilton may have been in Dallas, but it’s in Chicago that the company has a collection of unique and historical proper ties. History and Hilton are synonymous in the Windy City, a place rich in architecture and scenery. These hotels have managed to maintain their past landscape while pro viding the modern amenities discerning guests expect. There’s a reason I rarely miss a chance to stay at a Chicago Hilton, espe cially these properties.

Hilton Chicago Magnificent Mile

In 1945, Conrad Hilton bought the Steven’s hotel and renovated it with luxurious amenities fitting to what was then the largest hotel in the world. It is now the Hilton Chicago Magnificent Mile and remains as grand as ever. Guests such as Ella Fitzgerald, Dean Martin, President John F. Kennedy, and Queen Elizabeth II have passed through the Normandie lounge, which overlooks the breathtaking architecture of the Great Hall.

Today, the Hilton Chicago benefits from its location as much as it does from its history. It’s next door to the John Hancock Center and not far from Water Tower Place, Navy Pier, and Millenium Park. I love the rooftop pool and fitness center that offer spectacu lar views of Lake Michigan.

Palmer House Hilton

I try not to play favorites, but the Palmer House Hilton won my heart at first site. A lot of that was because of Ken Price, the late great Historian at the hotel. There was no one better to tell the story of Potter Palmer, his beloved wife Bertha, the Great Chicago Fire that almost took the hotel down for good, and all the celebrities they performed there. Price’s tours were as well known as the hotel he knew every nook and cranny of.

While I liken the lobby ceiling to the Sistine Chapel, the Palmer House Hilton wel comed the 21st Century with a full-service spa, Jazz at the Lobby Bar, and an indoor pool. It remains on the registry of Historic Hotels of America.

LondonHouse

The LondonHouse hotel is in the former London Guarantee Building, one of four skyscrapers built in the 1920s. It was designated a Chicago landmark in 1996. Today, it blends the old and the new with a stunning second-floor lobby with modern floor-toceiling windows within the 22-story addition.

LondonHouse Chicago is located within blocks of shopping and attractions and houses a fitness center that even has a ballet bar. Schedule a stop on the rooftop. The food and views give me a spectacular taste of the Chicago Riverfront.

Hampton Inn Majestic

The Hampton Inn Majestic is more than a theatre district hotel, it is literally under the same roof as one of Chicago’s most popular theaters, the CIBC. On my first stay there, I was privileged to be able to see Carrie Fisher perform in “Wishful Drinking.”

In 1906, the Hampton Inn Majestic was the tallest building in Chicago at 21 stories. The hotel rooms are located on the 4th through 21st floors. Unlike most other Hampton inn locations, the architect Ed ward Krause’s Beaux-Arts style puts this property in the boutique category while still offering the chains’ complimentary hot breakfast and warm welcome.

The Drake

When it comes to history, The Drake Hotel Chicago may have the most unusual of them all. It opened on New Year’s Eve in 1920, with a party of 2,000 guests. Architect Benjamin Howard Marshall channeled Italian Renaissance in this planning of an opulent hotel that would see guests such as Walt Disney and Charles Lindbergh and honeymooners Marilyn Monroe and Joe DiMaggio.

A century later, The Drake Chicago still has a past that includes a rumored ghost of a woman who jumped to her death at the opening night party when she found her husband cheating, but it doesn’t take away from the first-class service and spacious suites. Afternoon Tea in the Palm Court is an experience you’ll never forget.

Savoring San Juan’s Culinary

By Hal Peat

t could take many weeks around the city of San Juan to fully explore the ingre dients and dishes, culinary landmarks, emerging dining spots, and various festivals that all form some distinct piece of Puerto Rico’s food and beverage world. Still, a few visits and days provided this traveler some perspective of that range of local tastes present around the island’s capital. We focused on the cross-section of venues and neighborhoods, from the El Condado district to the narrow streets of historic Old San Juan that we also visited over several previous trips, to understand some of the highlights of island cuisine - encounters that also provided a sampling of dishes and ingredients to build on in future visits.

The world of comida criolla - as Puerto Rican gastronomy is known - is also a cultural journey that opens doors into different ethnic dimensions here, a culinary diversity that includes legacies from west Africa, Spain, and Asia. Along with all that, are the culinary presences brought by more recent migrations from other points globally. In our own recent visits, we kept the focus on those ingredients and staples that define much of this comida criolla – it provided more than enough to explore, taste and appreciate as a starting point.

Around El Condado – Classic and Contemporary Culinary Presence

Outwardly the oceanfront district of El Condado blends Hispanic-style architecture and modern high-rises with amazing ease. Likewise, the local dining and drinks options include a wide variety of both classic and more recent comida criolla, often all under one roof, ranging from onsite dining at the larger hotels to free-standing restaurants and cafés. For a busy day ahead, this visitor kept the morning meal on the light side – although criolla breakfasts can often include choices such as large, rich pastries if you are inclined. Stopping in at our hotel’s onsite casual chic Café Pierre, downstairs at the Doubletree by Hilton San Juan (105 Av. De Diego; Tel: 787-721-1200) we browsed the buffet mainly for the selection of fruits, fresh juices, and on the lookout for some thing, criolla tried the ham and cheese sandwich known here as the “P.R.”, along with some tostones (fried plantain chips). Later, we learned that ham is a staple in other popular island sandwiches at both breakfast and lunch hours.

Late spring weather is ideal for walking this district, and we took advantage of that on our route into the main downtown thor oughfare of Avenida Ashford, passing outdoor cafés and high-end boutiques to meet up with our guided tour specialist, Higuaca Adventours (www.higuacaadventours.com) who provide a knowledgeable itinerary to sample the neighborhood’s own criolla. Our exploration began at the1919 Restaurant, located within the opulent Condado Vanderbilt (1055 Ashford Ave.).

The name indicates its original year of opening, an inspiration of the “Gilded Age” and still a stylistic reflection of that period. Along with the panoramic vistas of the Caribbean, the ambiance here is certainly part of the overall ingredient at 1919 Restaurant – we sampled an appetizer plate that included some of distinct salads on their menu: in this category are their “Chayote Salad”, the“Local Lettuce & Endive Salad”, and the “Grain Salad”. The freshness and va riety of the local salad greens, along with their creative combinations provides a memorable mid-day takeaway from Restaurant 1919. Also on the table to give all those greens an additional criolla flair is a bottle of pique – a simple yet flavor-filled sauce comprised of hot peppers, garlic, onion and citrus immersed in vinegar.

Onward to our next stop - just next door at the La Concha Renaissance Resort (1077 Ashford Ave.), for a brief late morning refresher by way of a cup of cortadito.at their lobby level Aroma Café. Although not a coffee enthusiast, this traveler was immediate ly won over by this particular espresso of local coffee and plentiful steamed milk that creates a mellow and sweet blend. Our companion from Higuaca Aventours sampled an even brisker refresher with her glass of “Condado 500”, which gets its name from the recent 500 year anniversary of nearby Old San Juan, and is based on the premium aged “Ron de Barillito”. In fact, this ron de Barillito is a prom inent rum presence at bars and restaurants alike elsewhere around San Juan, and with good reason as we found out later.

Then it was time to walk a few blocks further within the district and sample a noon-time entrée at La Semilla Kitchen & Bar (Calle Delcasse 57), where the contemporary interior ambiance also sets the style for the culinary creativity. We chose some other interpretations of comida criolla that paired criolla staples with infusions of popular ingredients and indulged in their very filling “Chicken and Waffles”. Interesting to see what is usually a north American breakfast item combined with crunchy chicken strips for a mid-day meal – but it worked well for our taste buds. Other lunch menu listings that we will gladly return to sample include their “Ropa Vieja Omelette” and the “Huevos Rancheros” or “Lobster Eggs Ben edict”. Along with its vivid interior and imaginative menu of traditional/contemporary favorites, La Semi lla also features very reasonable prices for a noonday meal in these inflationary times.

Last but certainly not least, on this day around Condado was a memorable encounter with rich native chocolate at Chocobar Cortés (55 Condado Ave.; www.chocobarcortes.com). This one-of-a-kind home to a distinctive legacy in island chocolate creation has a cacao variety to suit any taste from mild and light to dark and deep. On display behind the glass cases here, for takeaway or tasting at the small café area, are their available chocolate varieties - and we took away a small box of several of what makes this a place to come back to sample more chocolate on another day. While it was too early in the day still for us, they also feature a wine/cocktail list here that includes some intriguing inclusions of chocolate with various spirits. This is surely la vida choco to savor and relish for any chocolate lover. Another Chocobar location if you cannot get to this one, can be found inside the Old San Juan district (at 210 C. de San Francisco), where a small onsite museum also displays some of the Cortés heritage in island cacao history.

Colonial and Contemporary – The Tasteful Fare and Beverage of Old San Juan

An intriguing back story attached to an ingredient, dish or drink or even the location itself is not unusual among Old San Juan’s restaurant, bar and cocktail scene. We discovered some of that first-hand on other days spent exploring the comida criolla around this historic heart of the Puerto Rican capital. Atmosphere and design that sets the ambiance for the dining was certainly present during our mid-morning breakfast at the iconic El Convento Hotel (100 C. del Cristo) and its interior courtyard restaurant of El Patio del Nispero, where the light but filling choice was their continental breakfast which included “quesitos”, corn muffins, banana bread, seasonal fruit, and juice or coffee. The open-air courtyard setting is the serene interior world that evokes much of the character and past of this neighborhood. Of course, it was the “quesito” which stood out as the criolla morning treat and appreciated for its cheese-and-pastry combination, while the infusion of corn and banana in muffin and bread was another island harvested ingredients.

Then it was onward to meet up with another expert team from Higuaca Aventours, who know more about the hidden or notable dining spots of this district. In that dimension, it was definitely a memorable lunchtime experience at the landmark dining establishment of Barrachina (10 C. de la Fortaleza), where the interior courtyard seat ing and service are a pleasing prelude to the menu’s distinctive items. Notable here and which this establishment lays claim to be the origin of is the astoundingly sweet pina colada.- in fact, it was a first-time for this visitor of this iconic beverage - and the combination of pineapple juice, rum and cream of coconut milk together produces a deservedly popular beverage.

For our main dish, it was the rich excellence of their tostones together with rice and deep fried white chicken that was just as palate-pleasing in its own way as the sweet ness of that pina colada. Each, in its own way, stood out as an example of the Borinqueño skill in bringing out a richness of flavor – whether that comes from frying a fruit or vegetable or achieving it in a beverage blend all their own. The other example of this on the menu at Barrachina is their presentation of the mofongo, a centerpiece in this comida criolla landscape. A traditional comfort food made from deep-fried green plantain mashed with garlic and cured pork or pork crackling together with butter and oil, here it comes with a selection of chicken, shrimp, lobster, and beef dishes, among others. We would order the mofongo at later lunches around Old San Juan in simpler but no less delicious preparation.

A fine way to begin an evening and end a visit in Old San Juan is at Antiguo 26 (261 Calle Tetuán) a “cocteleria” , in the former quarters of the Polo Norte  Soda Factory. Here in the smoothly exuberant ambiance of a reimagined cocktail bar, two dedi cated island brothers – chef Jorgé Montes and his rum expert brother Juan Montes - have brought to life liqueurs and light dining location within an interior space that recreates past eras with a contemporary nod, while relying on their combined knowledge of Puerto Rican liqueurs and gastronomy.

The tapas are the small, simple but well-paired food item on the menu here, and we chose their “pinchos de pollo”–a serving of chicken skewers together with pineapple rel ish, garlic baguette. The visual appeal of the low-lit dining areas and walls covered in mementos of the island’s bever age and culinary past and the display of leading rums and liqueurs behind the bar area were something else to savor visually. Rounding it all off was a long and enjoyable chat with Juan Montes himself about the journeys of rum and food on his special island.

In Puerto Rico and its comida criolla, the takeaways are truly something any traveler can also take away. In our case, that was the wooden pilon to grind the plantains into mofongo in our own kitchen; and also a bottle of pique sauce for a salad, and then a bottle of rum to attempt a pina colada of our own. They are all quite simple creations – and yet they take you back to the place and moment around San Juan where you first knew them and even re mind you to return and discover some more of this comida criolla world on another day.

MoreSanJuanCulinary

Condado Insider - The official online guide to entertainment, shopping, hotels, restaurants and more inside Condado - www.condadoinsider. com

Discover Puerto Rico – Official site and source for all island events, along with those particular to El Condado - www.discoverpuertorico.com

Relevant reads: Eating Puerto Rico: A history of food, culture and identity – by Cruz Miguel Ortiz Cuadra, transl. Russ Davidson (Chapel Hill:: The University of North Carolina Press, 2013.

Uncovering The Perfect Vacation: Archeology Tours

Travel Hippy

We know you. You would rather watch the History Channel than Angry Housewives of New Jersey. Old copies of National Geographic are some of your best friends and occupy pre cious desk and countertop space in your home. You have seen Indiana Jones I and III (but not II) several times. You are not a tourist: you like to im merse yourself in the cultures you visit, to experi ence a destination from an insider’s point of view. You sometimes wish you had taken that college archeology course when you had the chance.

Sound familiar? If so, it’s time to think about exploring your next destination with a tour focused on either archeology or anthropology. Such cultural exploration tours provide an oppor tunity to gain real insights into people and place. Archeology is the study of humanity and its past by gleaning information from the artifacts the culture left behind, whether the trail consists of grand monuments and buildings or garbage and rubble. Archeologists use both manual and aca demic tools to uncover and develop information, everything from trowels and shovels to ancient books and maps. Archeology is an exciting voyage into the depths of human history, and you are invited along.

This article discusses tours and travel that re volve around archeological site visits. Howev er, there also are opportunities to participate with archeologists on digs the world over.

So-called ‘field work’ opportunities are usually available as a source of cheap labor for cashstrapped academics. A tour that visits arche ological sites may be just the introduction to archeology that you need to decide whether actual fieldwork is something you will want to explore.

There are several ways to indulge your fas cination with archeology on a tour. Using a travel consultant to find the best possible values on air and ground packages, you can independently plan and book your travel to areas of the world in which you have an interest. Many archeological treasures are generally accessible to the public and avail able for travelers to explore on their own. The ruins of ancient Greece are a terrific example of sites where even the most casual observer can examine up-close the relics of a civiliza tion more than 2000 years old. In some areas of Greece, the ground is actually littered with shards of pottery and other crafted items. Traveling independently means your time is your own and that you are unfettered from the restraints of other travelers, schedules, and agendas. It also means that you are ‘on your own’ with regard to finding the best sites and uncovering good academic information on each site you visit.

In addition, in some areas, only authorized tours may enter archeological sites.

You and your travel consultant may also opt to work with a tour operator providing escorted tours to areas of archeolog ical interest. Host tour operators that provide archeological tours are varied in their size and the degree to which they specialize. Some very large tour operators have begun to develop archeological tours to satisfy the growing demand from their clients. Others are small, independent tour op erators run by knowledgeable archeologists. Typically, such tour operators provide group accommodations and site visits and range from a generalized knowledge and specialization in archeology to tours that are dedicated to the field study of archeological sites. Those tour operators that are dedicated to archeological site visits will most often work with smaller groups of travelers and are usually led by scholars and experts in the field of archeology. Some tour operators offer special ized tours with small groups and very flexible itineraries. Be sure to make clear to your travel consultant your preferences and your budget to allow for accurate tour operator selection.

Your first two decisions in the planning process are where you want to go and what you want to study. Archeological tours are worldwide in scope, so you have a literal planet of destinations from which to choose. Popular destinations include the Mediterranean clas sical world of Turkey, Greece, and Italy. The Middle East and Northern Africa have many sites important to biblical archeology. Various areas of Europe are troves for Western and Celtic cultures, while India, China and the Far East are important destinations for those with a penchant for Asian history and culture. Many areas of North, Central, and South America still contain un discovered locations for the diverse Native American cultures, from the familiar tribe of the United States and

Canada to the Mayan, Aztec and Incan civilizations. With regard to the areas of study, you might want to focus on prehistory, classical, or more modern time periods.

A key consideration for your planning will be the composition and number of people in your party. Some tour companies keep the group sizes very small, as few as 8, but on occasion, groups swell to 25 or more. The larger group tours tend to be less expensive in general, but individuals have less access to group leaders and experts. The age range on a typical archeological tour is wide, from 30 - 80 years, but most participants tend to be physically active. The atmosphere is most often very informal and friendly. Some tour operators have limits on whether children can participate, so be sure to inquire if you have young ones that will accompany you on your travels.

Most tour operators have few prerequisites for travel, such as prior course instruction or study. However, your own enjoyment of the adventure will be all the greater for any preliminary research and study that you under take. Ask your travel consultant to determine if the tour operator has a recommended reading list for you prior to travel. If not, spend some time acquainting yourself with the geography, culture, and history of the area you are to visit.

You will often have an opportunity while on your travels to purchase an antique or an artifact. In some rare in stances, you might even find an artifact lying amidst the rubble. Use caution! In many countries, the distinction between an antique, antiquity, and a cultural artifact is not only close but vitally important.

In some countries, antiques are the province of staterun shops. More often, however, many countries ban the export of cultural artifacts or antiquities without a proper permit, and some items may not be exported in any event. In addition, certain categories of antiques, such as ancient paintings, calligraphy, or firearms, may be forbidden. Protected animal products, ivory, or hides often are not permissible items for export. The laws and regulations governing the export of antiques are considerable in many countries, moving well beyond considerations of VAT (Value Added Taxes) into the realms of cultural antiqui ties and smuggling! Thus, one of the most crucial services provided by a good host tour operator is compliance with local laws regarding the purchase and export of antiques. Americans have been arrested in some countries for the unauthorized purchase of antiques or other important cultural artifacts. Always insist that the seller provide a receipt and, when appropriate, the official museum export certificate required by law if any. Unwary purchasers can find their goods confiscated without compensation and, in extreme cases, even arrested. Thus, communicate with your host guide before making any purchase and keep your receipts in order.

Archeological site visits are by their very nature a more active category of travel. Not all archeological sites are accessible to those with physical impairments or limitations. In addition, site visits often entail long periods of time walking or hiking in areas that are unpaved and even technical to negotiate. The climate in various areas of the world, whether heat, humidity, cold, altitude, or other exposure to the elements, can add to the physical stress a site visit might entail.

If you have any concerns about the physical capacities of you or your companions, make them known to your travel consultant early in the planning process. Finally, ask a doctor schooled in travel medicine whether there are any special health considerations for your intended desti nation, such as malarial recommendations, inoculations, or suggested precautions against food and water-borne maladies.

Accommodations provided by an archeological tour oper ator vary not only from tour operator to operator but also from trip to trip. There are very high-end luxurious ac commodations available as well as tents, research stations, and jungle lodges. Likewise, tour operators provide a var ied number of means to transport travelers to, from, and between sites, from large motor coach buses to 4-wheel drive vehicles. Knowing in advance what type of lodging and transportation the tour operator provides will help you to better prepare mentally for your travels.

Your travel consultant will provide you with information regarding the necessary travel documentation for your destination of choice. In general, international travel requires a passport and often a visa. Your passport should be valid for at least six months after your planned date of return. Visas can often be purchased at your point of entry, but sound practice dictates that you obtain any necessary travel documentation well in advance of travel. Travel insurance, which can typically be purchased through your travel consultant, is a good idea to protect against baggage loss, trip cancellation, interruption, or unexpected health emergencies occurring during your journey.

11

Great Experiences In Roanoke and The Blue Ridge

By Steve Winston steve@stevewinston.com

Sitting

amidst the Blue Ridge Mountains in western Virginia – yes, the mountains actu ally do have a bluish tinge – Roanoke is a city in which many cherished old red-brick buildings have been re-purposed into cool restaurants and hotels. With a population of about 100,000, it’s a surprisingly-cosmopolitan city, with sophisticat ed cultural amenities, important historical sites, excellent dining and nightlife, a vibrant down town, and more memorable experiences than many larger cities. And here are some of the best experiences…

1 - A SPECTACULAR SETTING: THE BLUE RIDGE MOUNTAINS

The Blue Ridge Mountains provide a scenic backdrop wherever you look in the Roanoke Valley. And they’re even more beautiful than their photos, as you take in a cool breeze and the bluish – and often changing - tints of distant peaks. Roanoke is the largest metro politan area along the 469 miles of the Blue Ridge Parkway, which starts at Shenandoah National Park in northern Virginia and ends in Great Smokey Mountains National Park in Tennessee. This road that winds through mountain passes and valleys and rivers and lakes and scenic little villages is often consid ered the most beautiful highway in America. And by no means is your car the only way to experience it. There are over 1,000 miles of trails here, for hiking, biking, climbing, and paddling.

2 - MARKET SQUARE

This is the heart of downtown Roanoke. It’s the beautifully-restored home of the City Market Building, as well as Historic Roanoke City Farmers’ Market, Center In the Square cultural center, and a colorful variety of shops, restaurants and breweries. The Farm er’s Market has been here since 1882; it’s the oldest continuously-operating open-air mar ket in Virginia. And it’s open 363 days a year. Here, you can find a wide range of interesting foods and Southern specialties, along with handmade artisan goods and paintings by local artists. Market Square is a happy, lively, downtown gathering place.

3 – CULTURE AND FUN AT CENTER IN THE SQUARE

This seven-story building houses ten cultural and educational orga nizations…and it’s a ton of fun for all ages. You can easily spend a full day roaming among the Harrison Museum of African American Cul ture, Science Museum of Western Virginia, Roanoke Pinball Museum (you can play on classic pinball machines!), Roanoke STARcade, Kids Square Children’s Museum, Mill Mountain Theatre (award-winning stage productions) and an 8,000-gallon “Living Reef Aquarium.” The rooftop gardens offer stunning views of downtown Roanoke and the Blue Ridge Mountains. And one of the buildings easily visible is the world-class Taubman Museum of Art, with its multi-pointed roof of glass, zinc and steel.

4 - BLACK DOG SALVAGE

A salvage facility??? Yes…you read it correctly! Because this is the most extraordinary salvage facility in America. It’s the home of “Salvage Dawgs,” available on many cable channels. Here, you’ll come across extraordinary “finds” you thought you’d never see again. There’s 40,000 sq. ft. filled with antiques, bric-a-brac, books, Southern crafts, restored old furniture, archi tectural items, unique gifts, signs, hand-carved rocking chairs, housewares, and untold me mentoes of your youth. You can easily spend the better part of a day here. In fact, now that the facility’s beautifully-refurbished, 1911 Stone House is a hotel, you can spend many days here! In spring and summer, there are month ly outdoor concerts (the 3rd of each month) at The Dog Bowl, an adjacent outdoor venue also owned by Black Dog Salvage. In true Black Dog fashion, the stage is actually a converted semi-trailer salvaged from a local drive-in! The Dog Bowl Market also takes place the 3rd Sun day of the month from May to December, with food, music, and over a hundred local artisans selling vintage hand-made crafts. And happily, Black Dog sits in historic Grandin Village.

5 - VIRGINIA MUSEUM OF TRANSPORTATION

– This is considered one of the best railroad mu seums in America. Here, you can wander among the “iron horses” of another day while watch ing today’s modern trains speed by just outside the grounds. In the outdoor railyard, you’ll see luxurious private train cars; gigantic old steam, diesel, or electric locomotives; and freight cars, dining cars, and cabooses of another age. And you’ll be able to look inside many of them. In side, there are classic model trains. Automobile buffs will love this place, too, because it also con tains a classic car museum. (Don’t be surprised if you see that car you drove as a teenager!) And there’s Aviation Gallery for flight buffs.

Roanoke boasts one of America’s great hotels in the Tudor-style, pyramid-topped Hotel Roanoke, opened in 1882. Its Regency Room restaurant, with true Old South elegance, has been awarded the prestigious AAA Four-Diamond designa tion. And it won’t take but a few bites to see why. Texas Tavern, on the other hand, is a fami ly-owned restaurant that seats “1,000 people, 10 at a time” (because it seats only ten!). And it’s been slinging humongous hot dogs and popular chili bowls and “Cheesy Westerns” (burgers!) since 1930. There are a couple of tables. But most folks choose to sit at the counter, on those high 1940’s-style red, round, high seats.

7 – THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL

You’ve probably seen photos of McAfee Knob, a sharp promontory on the 2,200-mile “Ápp” Trail overlooking a patchwork-quilt of some of the most breathtaking scenery in America. Virgin ia’s Blue Ridge is actually home to the Virginia Triple Crown of hikes (McAfee Knob, Dragon’s Tooth, and Tinker Cliffs) on this legendary trail, which has been around since Colonial days. A new shuttle service to the McAfee Trailhead was scheduled to start in September. Other popu lar hikes on the Appalachian Trail include Hay Rock/Tinker Mountain (with dramatic views of Carvins Cove reservoir and the surrounding Roanoke Valley) and Apple Orchard Falls. But even if you’re just in the mood for a relaxing stroll…better bring your camera!

8 – GREAT WINERIES

Here in the Blue Ridge, entrepreneurial vintners are producing excellent wines in architecturally-distinct, woodsy wineries, some of which boast ex cellent restaurants. And they’ll often greet you personally. One of the best is Chateau Morrisette Winery, which offers award-winning wines with natu ral flavors such as Blackberry. This is a Tudor-style building with tables outside if you’d like to enjoy the natural flavors amidst the natural beauty. Another great spot is AmRhein’s Wine Cellars. AmRhein’s has been a leading Blue Ridge vintner for over 20 years and has two Virginia Governor’s Cup Awards to prove it. And the winery often stag es grape-stomping and special dinner events.

9 – HISTORY MUSEUM OF WESTERN VIRGINIA/O.WINSTON LINK MUSEUM

These two excellent museums share space in the former passenger station of the N & W Railway. The History Muse um of Western Virginia features a trea sure-trove of settlement history in this region, with some 6,000 three-dimen sional objects, and thousands of textiles, books, photographs, documents, and letters dating back to Thomas Jefferson. The O. Winston Link Museum displays the artistry of that photographer, whose poignant black-and-white photos doc ument the end of the steam-train era in the 1960’s.

10 – FUN AT MILL MOUNTAIN PARK

This 568-acre park beside the Blue Ridge Parkway offers two mountain overlooks, ten miles of multi-use trails, greenway access and a playground.

The Mill Mountain Zoo here is filled with rare animals such as birds like the Red-Billed Blue Magpie; mammals such as the Eurasian Lynx; reptiles like the Red-Footed Tortoise; and amphibians like the Chinese Water Dragon. At Dis covery Center, you can wander through the wildflower garden, participate in interactive exhibits, or view unusual animals such as corn snakes or box tur tles. Mill Mountain Park is also known for its iconic Roanoke Star, the largest free-standing, man-made, illuminated star in the world. Sitting atop the moun tain, it’s illuminated in bright white every night except for Memorial Day, Flag Day, Independence Day, Patriot Day, and Veteran’s Day, when it bathes to Roanoke region in red, white, and blue. The 100-foot-high Star is visible from just about anywhere in Roanoke – and from 60 miles in the air.

11 – THE TOWN OF BEDFORD AND THE D-DAY MEMORIAL

On June 6, 1944 – D-Day in World War II – the town of Bedford, then with a population of 3,200, suffered the highest per capita casualties of any American city or town. Nineteen of its sons died storming the beaches of Normandy that day. And their memories are still hon ored today, as some of the town’s shops still display their photos and the news paper clippings of that day. Bedford, however, still retains its sweet smalltown flavor and its friendly residents,. This is also the site of, fittingly, the National D-Day Memorial. Here, amidst placid greenery and pathways, sit foun tains, monuments, plaques, flags, stat ues, and markers honoring the courage – and the ultimate sacrifices – of the 2,500 young Americans who died that day under withering German fire. And this memorial ensures that their legacy will live forever.

International Airline Consolidation

BY TRAVEL HIPPY

You want to go to Australia this winter, but published fares are through the roof. Guess kangaroos, the outback, and Crocodile Dundee will just have to wait for your arrival, right? Not necessarily. With a little patience and a good travel advisor, you might just luck into one of the real secrets of inexpensive travel... international airline consolidators. These airline ticket brokers purchase airline tickets directly from the airlines in bulk at discounted fares and then resell them through travel agents who add their own markup, but at a rate still well below published fares, often hundreds of dollars less. Consolidators typically agree to purchase a set dollar amount of airline tickets at “net fares” and thus take on consid erable risk.

The best consolidators have contracts with airlines to quietly sell their tickets at a discount through travel agents. In return, bonafide consolidators purchase large volumes of inventory from the airlines at a discount. The effect is quite remarkable: travel agents can sell international airline tickets at fares less, and often much less than the airlines themselves. This can save you literally hundreds of dollars.

Before we go any further, a word of warning - do not try this at home. Your travel professionals will be able to steer you to reputable companies that have actual contracts with major airlines to sell discounted tickets. Trying to get a consolidator ticket on your own is a risky proposition. The best airline con solidators are members of several important industry organizations and sell their tickets only through legitimate travel agents. So, with that warning, here is what you need to know.

Unlike domestic fares, international airfares are regulated by an airline organization, the Internation al Air Transportation Association (IATA). However, every airline faces capacity problems... how to sell the most tickets at as high a price as possible. If the airlines always held out for their published fares, though, too many seats would go unsold. Therefore many international airlines turn to consoli dators for assistance in selling any excess inventory.

In all fairness, there are fewer seats available through consolidators now than in pre-pandemic times because more people are now traveling than ever and the airlines’ need for discounting fares is less prev alent. However, as the “revenge travel” craze begins to subside, consolidator tickets will again begin to be more readily available.

Consolidators are also the source for terrific bargains on airline seats in business and first class. The “front of the airplane,” in fact, is typically where the best discount fares will be found. The airlines would prefer to sell those seats, even at a discount, rather than award upgrades to their frequent fliers.

Not every consolidator holds a contract with every international airline. Most have several contracts, and some specialize in only certain geographic markets such as Asia or South America. Your travel agent will know which consolidators to use depending on where you want to go, and they will often check rates with more than one. The key is reliability, finding a company with a history of providing good service to agents and their clients.

Using a consolidator ticket is identical to using a published fare ticket. On occasion, no fare is shown on the ticket, but this is normal. Your travel agent will also include the taxes and other fees that are a part of the actual ticket price. In some instances, but not all, the airline may even credit your frequent flier account for your miles, giving you a real bonus on your discounted ticket.

BonVoyage

So what is keeping you in your armchair? There are bargains to be had on internation al airfares if you have a travel agent in the know...and you do!

TRAVEL IQ

How to Haggle Without Being a Jerk

By: Lesley Stones

Dear Travel IQ: I will be going to Turkey soon, and I’m looking forward to the opportunity to bargain hunt for a really nice rug. However, I don’t want to be a jerk when negotiating with the shop owners in the marketplace. What is the best way to haggle without being a jerk?

Signed: Too Nice?

Dear Too Nice: It’s surprising how many travelers can’t come to grips with the art of haggling.

Even though they’re adroitly navigating around a strange country, tasting unfamiliar food, and adapting to a foreign language, having to bargain for what you buy is sometimes one culture shock too many. I’ve seen grown women crumple completely – the sort that would flash their credit cards with glee in any other situation – just because someone asks how much they want to pay.

Others take it to an extreme, and there’s always one wise guy who boasts about how lit tle he paid and how everyone else was cheated because they’re not as street-wise as he is. It’s almost galling to realize you paid 30% more for exactly the same item, but you’ve done your bit to help humanity. His smug efforts to save $1 on an amazingly beautiful souvenir won’t have any effect on his life at all.

Does

he need that $1 more than the street vendor did? Probably not. He may feel self-satisfied with his mastery of haggling, but he might have deprived the seller of a decent income. And that shouldn’t make anybody proud.

If you strike a deal that leaves both sides smiling, it’s a win. Because there’s an art and a social skill to happy haggling that the glib question “how much did you pay?” misses completely. I realized that when I lived in Cairo for four years and had to haggle every day for everything. Even for fruit and vegetables, which had their prices clearly marked. I bartered in my faltering Arabic, saying: “Hello Abdul, I need some grapes today.” Abdul would tell me how much they cost, and I’d point to the sign showing they were officially half that price. He’d grin a toothless grin. I’d grin right back. “Oh please, Abdul, not today – I’m in a hur ry…”

It was a ritual, a game we played for years, where the locals pitted their wits against the foreigner. They knew I had more money than they did. Even if I felt poor, I wasn’t the one with my bum on a packing crate, my feet in the gutter, and only a few carrots to my name. I was a foreigner, a source of wealth who could boost their meager income without even denting mine. Instead of 50 pias tres, I’d end up paying 80 piastres, and Abdul bought extra food for his family. And that’s the key to happy haggling, really. Yes, some people will blatantly try to rip you off in a humorless, unpleasant manner. But it’s a game, not an exam.

If you’re happy with what you’re paying and they’re happy with what you’re offering, why over-analyze?

If you refuse to play or go in blindly, you will, of course, be thoroughly conned, and deservedly so. Because bargaining is more than a way of life – it’s a way of interacting with the locals. It’s far more fulfilling than just whipping out your wallet in a wordless transaction that teaches nobody anything about another culture.

If you really don’t want to get involved, learn a few words of a totally alien language. But be warned, the hawkers are far more multi-lingual than you! Saying “No thank you” in Finnish may be exactly what you need to make the hawker go away, but chances are you’ll meet the only merchant in town who’s fluent in Finnish.

Sometimes

it’s hard to be polite when a hawker is still dangling trinkets in your face after you’re said no 10 times. In India, I saw one charity worker suddenly let rip with two very rude words, sending the hawker scurrying, drawing shocked looks from the crowd, and leav ing her humiliated. “That wasn’t very charitable,” she mumbled.

So if you really want to be left alone, it may be worth investing purely to ward off every other tout. In Istanbul, the road from my hotel to the city center was a seething mass of sock sell ers. By day two, I was fed up with telling everyone I didn’t want fake Nike socks. On day three, I wised up, bought a packet, and carried them proudly as a talisman. “I have socks,” I’d say, waving my pack every time someone approached me with another pair. They laughed, I laughed, and we all went away smiling. My worst experience was in Marrakesh, where I suddenly craved a small rug for no good reason whatsoever. It always starts the same: “How much you pay? I make you good price. Cheaper than Walmart!” You look, you touch, you’re sucked into the cycle. We bargained hard, and I felt self-satisfied when I beat them down to a fraction of the starting price.The deal was done, and my rug was whisked away for wrapping. And when I un wrapped it at home a week later, I did a double take. It wasn’t the same rug. This was a thin ner, cheaper, tatty fake. I’d bargained them down too much, but they exacted their revenge. How to leave both sides smiling:

* Do your research. Browse around the formal shops to get an idea of prices. Check the quality too. Fixed price shops may be selling better quality than you’re haggling for on the street, so compare like with like.

* Even formal shops tend to be flexible with the price tag. It’s always worth offering a little less and seeing how they respond.

* Once you know the vague value of an item, decide how much you’re prepared to pay.

* The starting price is hugely variable. Some local guides suggest you offer roughly half of what is initially asked for. I often find bidding just 20% is closer to the mark. If they spit at your feet and brush you away, you’ve gone in too low!

* Walk away at least once. If they come after you, you’re pretty close to striking a deal.

* Don’t haggle for something you don’t want. It’s bad form to agree a price then not actually buy it.

* You may be new to this game, but traders have perfected the art of haggling over the centuries. If they haggle you higher than you intended, pay up and laugh it off. Always remember you’re on holiday – you’re supposed to be having fun!

Besides, it will make a wonderful memory the next time you’re walking around a boring supermarket with those stubbornly inflexible little price tags.

TERRA TRAVELERS

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