ER R A T TERRA
TRAVELERS Vol. 12 Summer 2022
12
Extraordinary Findings in the World of Travel
Astronomical Tours
SUMMER 2022
The Hollywood Experience at Lake Geneva
MAGICAL TOWNS IN MEXICO
VACATION REDESIGNED
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Publisher’s Letter Stranger in a Strange(r) Land I love airports, and I missed them for the last two years. I’m serious. I still have a kid-like fascination with the very concept of an airport. The moving walkways, the arrival and departure boards, airplanes taking off outside of the windows. You walk through a door in Seattle, and you walk out a door in Bangkok. And still, there are people who don’t believe in magic.
As we travel over the coming months, take some extra patience with you.
Everything will almost certainly not go as planned during our travels, people will make mistakes, and not everything will work as well as it should. If possible, treat these mishaps as new life lessons. Be gracious with the flight attendants, the porters, the registration desk, and the bellhops. Everyone is trying to Calendars are a lot like airports. You walk through one portal at the remember how to do their job, and end of the year into a new adven- many are brand new to the task. Everyone is learning how to navigate ture in the next. This year is far our new reality. We have to retrain from over, but there is a bit of a time warp in our way, a wormhole ourselves to respond appropriately, to show an extra measure of kindthat seems destined to land us in ness. unknown territory. We got on in March of 2020 and we are just now One of the best things about travel dropping out of hyperspace, a bit worse for wear, but eager to be back for me has always been the opportunity to meet new cultures, and to where we left off. see life a bit differently as a result It may be a worthwhile exercise to of finding myself in a new environthink through a few items to ensure ment. These days, my hometown we are oriented as we land because is a new environment, so I expect the airport will be more exciting the shadow of the past two years will persist for a while. The chaot- than ever if a bit more difficult and ic state of the travel industry right stranger than I remember.
now, canceled flights, missed ports of call, and high prices are all symp- I will miss some flights, I will be tomatic of the turmoil the Pandem- disappointed on occasion and frustrated. I also expect to be surprised ic has bequeathed us. and amazed. It’s part of what comes from being a stranger in a stranger Here is one thing of which I am land. certain: patience is a virtue.
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TERRA TRAVELERS EXTRAORDINARY FINDINGS IN TRAVEL
PUBLISHER
Richard B. Earls
EDITOR
Elizabeth Cody
AUTHORS
Nadia Ali Travel Hippy Sue King Isabel Putinja Lesley Stones Richard B. Earls Marcia Frost Steve Winston
EDITORIAL & CREATIVE DESIGN Caroline Keane
MARKETING EXECUTIVES Randi White
CUSTOMER SERVICE
Erin von Scherrer
CIRCULATION & SUBSCRIPTION Travel Research Online
Terra Travelers seeks to inspire a community of likeminded individuals that respect the road, respect the people we visit, and those with whom we travel.
60 SecondTheGeography
Enchantments of Scotland
The myths and legends of Scotland are fitting of the storyteller culture it is. The tales call forth the natural surroundings of foggy coasts and cliffs. With more than 790 islands along its coast and hills as far as the eye can see, Scotland has plenty of true wilderness to explore. Its cities are reminiscent of the middle ages that coexist with the growing modern world. Add hospitable and down-to-earth people – you have an amazing destination for the traveler all around. The traveler will find a shining example of Scotland’s spirit in Edinburgh. This city has been recognized as the capital of Scotland since the 15th century. It sits on rocky hills that overlook the sea, with an Old Town that is as picturesque as it gets. Medieval turrets and pointed spires accentuate the skyline, while the olden character of the streets begs for attention. Then there’s Edinburgh Castle, a fortification sitting atop the tallest hill in the city, to explore. And, as it hosts some of the world’s most recognizable art festivals, there is definitely a creative undercurrent running through the city. From wandering to late-night revelry, to catch a taste of Scotland – Edinburgh will be a joy for the traveler.
However, there are many spots around outside of Edinburgh to wo0 the traveler. Doune Castle, near Edinburgh, lies in the village of Doune since the 13th century. It was an important fortification in the Scottish Wars of Independence and was the shooting location for the movie Monty Python and the Holy Grail and the show Outlander. Nearby Lilinthgow Palace, in Lilinthgow, is a great stop to view the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots. Further north is Pitlochry, a popular place to walk the rolling hills. On the road there though, the traveler will roll through Sma’ Glen – a beautiful and narrow valley that follows along the River Almond.
For learning about Scottish history, including pre-history, the Scottish Crannog Centre is the way to go. Including a museum and a fully replicated crannog with demonstrations of ancient crafts and technologies. The village of Luss is on the west coast. Luss is known for its small allure and views off the west coast of Scotland. It features picturesque cottages and a church that performs many weddings a year. Also along the west coast is Troon, a small town with beaches and also a view of the western waters. Just off the west coast is the Isle of Arran. The traveler will find magnificent mountain scenery, quaint villages, and, of course, whiskey distilleries to knock back a few. Terra Travelers | | 3
Working with a Travel Advisor
Astronomy Vacations
pg. 6
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Lake Geneva pg. 10
pg. 14
Mexico's Enchanted Towns pg. 19
ST. PETE A Florida C Reborn pg. 23
E City
Malaga, Andalusia pg. 26
Croatia MiniCruising pg. 32
CONTENTS
Santiago Chile pg. 29
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Working
with a Travel Advisor
By Richard Earls
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B
ecause I’m obsessed with travel research, I believe in the value of a good travel advisor. At one time we called them “travel agents” but several years ago the title changed to “travel advisors” as they migrated from being agents for suppliers to advocates for travelers. Well-trained travel specialists offer very valuable services and information almost impossible to uncover by yourself regardless of how diligently you search online. A good travel agent will save you time, save you money and provide insights into the logistics of your trip. Good travel agents keep their ear to the ground. They are researching travel every day and know which tour operators to use and which to avoid. They know the difference between a hotel in the city center and a cheaper but far less convenient one on the outskirts of town. I am an experienced traveler. Yet, I personally always consult a travel agent. Don’t get me wrong, I also like to research on my own. A good travel agent will welcome your research and questions. I am always glad I asked for her assistance even if what she is doing is no more than agreeing with my choices. After all, she is researching travel every day. She’s good at what she does and that makes me better at what I want to do. At the end of the day, a good travel agent will make you feel empowered. There is a subtle psychological shift worth mentioning at this point. We often approach the relationship with a travel advisor thinking they sell travel, a mistaken assumption. A good travel professional knows they are not selling anything but their services – their primary task is to assist the traveler to make intelligent buying decisions. Your travel advisor should be on the same side of the table as you, helping you to evaluate your goals and decide what is the best value for you. Remember, “price” is only one component of value. What you pay is one side of value – what you get in return is the other! Think “value” as you work with your travel advisor.
We’re here To Help
Having been described as the travel industry’s ‘matchmakers’, a great client-travel advisor relationship is worth its weight in gold. From personalized attention everywhere you go to perks and upgrades that only come with being the client of an esteemed advisor, the benefits of using a travel advisor are exponential, but how do you go about building that valued relationship?
Be Honest
The best possible advice regarding working with a travel advisor is to be completely candid and honest. If you withhold information, it is not possible for the travel advisor to properly research the best values on your behalf. Now, of course, you want your dream trip, with all the bells and whistles. However, it does both you and your travel advisor an enormous disservice to not be upfront about your actual budget. Identify what is high on your priority list. Perhaps you aren’t as focused on your accommodation, rather you’d prefer to have mind-blowing travel experiences in every destination you’re visiting. This helps your travel advisor not only build your dream trip but decide how and where to allocate your budget.
Trust Their Expertise
A travel advisor’s job is just that – travel. While the photos on a hotel website may have you ready to book, your advisor may know that it’s on a congested motorway or next to noisy construction. Trust them. Great travel advisors go out of their way to familiarize themselves with destinations, properties, and various other tourism suppliers the world over. It’s their job to get to know you and match you with suitable experiences that just fit.
Collaborate & Delegate
Travel advisors are here to save you time, but if you have a dream destination, experience, or property in mind – tell them! A great trip is a collaboration between enthusiastic clients and a knowledgeable travel advisor.
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In that same vein of saving time and collaborating, don’t be afraid to (politely) delegate to your travel advisor, and request that they look into a particular property, research specific activities for your family, or even have them hunt down restaurant reservations. At the end of the day, they’re working on your behalf!
Accept Advocacy
For those of us with can-do self-sufficient attitudes, this can often be a hard pill to swallow. Your travel advisor is your advocate, especially when they’re 3,000 miles away and you’re traveling on the journey that they built for you. If something goes wrong, accept your advisor’s help and grant them the opportunity to fix it. This may mean biting your tongue at the hotel manager if something goes wrong, and waiting on your travel advisor to work their magic. It will be worth it in the end. Try to remember, travel advisors have valued relationships with hotels and tourism suppliers, and they will bend over backward to keep them (and their clients) happy, and returning with future bookings.
Build Your Relationship Let your travel advisor get to know you. The more that you and your advisor connect on a personal level and become familiar with your quirks, likes, dislikes, hobbies, and interests, the better your trip can be tailored precisely to you, and no one else. Unique, personalized trips are where most travel advisors shine, so by opening yourself up and sharing parts of you (and your family) with your travel advisor, you’re only improving the chances for a beautiful, custom-made journey. Remember, the best relationships only get better
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with age, and a long-term travel advisor is someone you will want in your corner for years to come.
How do you find a good travel agent? The best possible way is by word of mouth. A referral to a really good agent is invaluable. Ask around. Ask your best-traveled associates whom they use. Interview prospective travel agents. Ask about their specialties. Ask about their fees. Does their support network, consortia or franchise have relationships with the hotel, cruise line or resort I want to use? A key attribute of a great agent is their ability to empathize, to understand exactly what you want to achieve from your travels. Look for intelligence, for the ability to think beyond your own immediate needs and for a sense of organization. Finally, it is important to LIKE your travel professional. Find one with whom you resonate and can have a solid professional relationship. If you find all of that in one package, hang onto them. And tell your friends. They will thank you for it.
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Reliving Lifestyles of th
Ric
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D
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he ch and Famous
in Lake Geneva, Wisconsin
By: Marcia Frost
New York City has The Hamptons. Los Angeles has Palm Springs. Denver has Aspen.
Geneva
And Chicago has..
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N
ew York City has The Hamptons. Los Angeles has Palm Springs. Denver has Aspen. For many years, the vacation playground for the rich and famous in Chicago was Lake Geneva. This Wisconsin resort town, only about an hour from the Windy City, has since evolved as a destination accessible for everyone to stay, play, and relax on the water.
A Rich History It was easy to escape from the big city once the first train service from Chicago to Lake Geneva started in 1871. Politicians and celebrities alike bought land and built homes on the water for summer vacations and weekend getaways. The area became more popular in 1957 when the first ski hill was built. Lake Geneva was then a year-round town and its value increased. The biggest claim to fame was yet to come: In 1968, Hugh Hefner broke ground on the very first Playboy Club Hotel. It would bring in a constant flow of elites to this Midwest waterfront.
Stay Comfortably
The Playboy Mansion closed its doors in 1981, but standing in its place is The Grand Geneva Resort. This full-service resort has everything needed for a family vacation or romantic getaway on 1,300 acres. Accommodations include rooms, suites, and villas. There is a trolley to take you around the property, which includes a ski mountain, petting zoo, horseback riding, golf course, and indoor waterpark.
For a more modern property, The Ridge is a good choice. It’s large, but not huge, and has its own marina. There’s also a pool, hot tub, golf, and bocce ball. Crafted Restaurant prides itself in local sustainable food and the lobby has a coffee and wine café.
If you are looking for something more historic, look no further than Maxwell Mansion. This historic property is a magnificent cross between and bed & breakfast and the most exclusive boutique hotel you’ve been to. Add in the ability to stay (like I did) in a room frequented by Ulysses S. Grant and have a drink in the downstairs speakeasy, and you’ve got a very unique experience.
The center of Lake Geneva is its namesake body of water with watersports by day and magnificent sunsets to enjoy each evening. Popeyes is in a prime location and legendary. I never miss it, whether it’s for their famous rotisserie chicken for dinner or one of their huge Bloody Mary’s.
The Baker House is a similar property on the water downtown, with even more of a sense of elegance in the suites of this Victorian Mansion. They also have a brunch so unique and delicious I indulge every time I’m in Lake Geneva. I love the idea of playing “dress up” with their selection of hats and scarves as much as sipping champagne and nibbling fresh baked goods in the parlor, while watching the dock. 12 | | Terra Travelers
Stop by for a Bite
Café Calamari is a must for fantastic Italian food. The Sicilian-crusted filet mignon is incredible. Be sure to save room for the gelato, but don’t skip the appetizers. Even if you don’t stay at Grand Geneva consider havingat least one meal at the elegant Chop House, Ristorante Brissago Restaurant, or the more casual Grand Café. All three are good and open to non-guests.
Another place I go to every time I visit Lake Geneva is Studio Winery. They combine four things I love: small bites, wine, art, and music. They recently added spirits into the mix.
Leave Time to Play It’s nearly impossible to run out of things to do in this Wisconsin town. If you are looking to add a little more adventure to your mix, check out Lake Geneva Canopy Tours for Ziplining. The Candle Mercantile is a fun place to do something a little different and more subdued. When you sit at the “bar” here with your glass of wine it’s also custom to make products of your choice. Explore their selection of scents to make candles and essential oils. The whole family will enjoy the Tristan Crist Magic Theater. The small venue makes it a more intimate experience.
Actually Experience Hollywood Royalty The history of the rich and famous hasn’t completely left Lake Geneva. You can find a lot of it still at Ten Chimneys. This estate was created by Broadway legends Lynn Fontanne and Alfred Lunt. Not only is their mansion open for tours but the museum and school are open to actors’ education and the public’s observation. Master Classes at Ten Chimneys are taught by a different well-known actor each year. They have included Jason Alexander, Phylicia Rashad, Alan Alda, and David Hyde Pierce. I had the pleasure of attending the presentation by Master Class Teacher Olivia Dukakis.
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Astronomy Vacations By: Travel Hippy
The Sky Is Not The Limit “Then you flew your Lear jet up to Nova Scotia To see the total eclipse of the sun” - Carly Simon “You’re So Vain” Carly Simon sang about it, but you can really do it, and you don’t need your own jet. Astronomical tours focus on the observations of the heavens from terrestrial destinations possessing permanent or temporary geographic advantages for watching celestial events or phenomena. Most of the civilized world suffers from ‘light pollution’, whereby man-made light dilutes and washes out the much more distant lights of planets and stars. Thus, the best possible sky gazing is done far from the pernicious effects of artificial light in more remote locations. Likewise, the higher the altitude, the better the viewing as there is less of Earth’s atmosphere between the traveler and the heavens. Thus, the ultimate destination is one where the sought-after phenomenon 14 | | Terra Travelers
is viewable, far from artificial light, at as high an altitude as possible. If you have ever considered an astronomical vacation, use this article as a guide to acquaint yourself with the many options available to globe-trotting astro-vacationers. Southern Sky tours take advantage of remote locations in the southern hemisphere to observe the unfamiliar night vistas of the lower latitudes. In the southern regions of the globe, many celestial objects that are not present in the northern hemisphere are visible including two nearby galaxies, the Magellanic Cloud, and the Eta Carinae Nebula. Many star groupings from the Northern Hemisphere are not visible or look strangely different. Tour companies often use Central and South American countries such as Costa Rica or Bolivia as viewing locations, and each typifies different advantages. In Costa Rica, the warm climate makes viewing very comfortable. In Bolivia, the altitude of
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12,000 feet plus means that in any season a coat is in order, but much of the earth’s atmosphere is beneath you!
totality of the eclipse. A little background on the mechanics of a solar eclipse is in order to explain why travel is such an important aspect to viewing.
Southern sky trips are often available in close proximity to local observatories. Tour operators often charter use of these facilities for the duration of the trip, adding to the interest.
A solar eclipse occurs when the moon passes between the earth and the sun. If the moon’s shadow falls on the earth’s surface at that time, some portion of the sun’s light is eclipsed and the light passing to earth is blocked. Because the moon’s orbit is tilted 5 degrees to the Earth’s orbit, the moon’s shadow usually misses the earth during an eclipse. At least twice a year, however, everything lines up just so and an eclipse can be seen from some region of the earth. When the moon’s darkest shadow, the ‘umbral shadow’ hits the earth, and the moon is also at its closest point to earth in orbit, a total eclipse of the sun can be seen.
Throughout history, many cultures have worshiped the planets, stars, sun, and moon. Even today, vestiges of the old religions can be found in native cultures or, in some instances, hiding behind the vestments of our modern religious practices. The summer and winter solstices, June 21 and December 21, are two occasions when opportunities for great astronomical viewings present themselves and tour operators offer specialized tours. Many tours center around centuries-old astronomical sites: think Stonehenge or Andean temples. Because the Solstices represented the longest and shortest days of the year, the dates bore great import to ancient agricultural societies. Itineraries usually explore the cultural significance of the occasion along with observation of astronomical phenomena. During your planning, be sure to note that the summer and winter solstices are reversed in the Northern and Southern Hemispheres. The autumnal and spring equinoxes are the times of the year when the celestial auroras are most visible. However, the visibility of northern and southern lights, unlike many other types of astronomical phenomena, cannot be as easily forecast as they are literally the byproducts of solar weather in the earth’s upper atmosphere. Best viewed in the highest and lowest latitudes, the Auroras are spectacular displays of nature. In the northern hemisphere, travelers can view the aurora borealis, and in the southern, the aurora australis. Solar eclipses present very special occasions for astronomical viewing and photography. Tour operators fly avid travelers to many distant locales to place them directly in the path of the
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The track of the umbral shadow, the ‘track of totality’ is very long, 10,000 miles, but very narrow, about 120 miles wide. Thus, to be in the path of totality, one must travel to very specific parts of the globe. One of the best resources for locating the next solar eclipse around the globe is https:// earthsky.org. Some tour operators specialize in astronomical vacations while others use astronomy as a theme for special tours or cruises. In almost all instances, the tour company will employ experts to guide the tour group and act as an instructor during the trip. Work with your travel consultant to choose a good tour operator and to obtain the greatest possible values in your air and lodging accommodations. Tour operators act to arrange the logistics of your astronomy tour. A good tour operator will develop the itinerary, arrange for equipment transport (your own and theirs), provide transportation at the destination, and look to meals and other creature comforts. As noted above, tour operators will most often furnish a guide for the duration
of the trip that will be an expert in astronomy to assist with questions, and viewing advice and will provide lectures to the group. Tour operators will frequently contract with one or more lodging options at the destination. Discuss with your travel consultant your preferences with regard to your lodging, whether you will require a single or double accommodation, or any other options that might be available. Your tour operator will probably also arrange for other activities in the area during those times when you are not viewing the skies, such as local cultural opportunities, nightlife or other entertainment. Some astronomical tours occur on cruise ships which have a couple of interesting advantages. Cruise ships are very maneuverable and can often respond quickly to changing conditions, avoiding weather or clouds, and positioning for the most advantageous viewing. Visibility is usually 360 degrees. On a cruise ship, your lodging is always close at hand, so it is easy to reach your accommodations for comfort’s sake. Cruises also provide additional entertainment and amenities often not found in more remote viewing areas. A bit of planning goes a long, long way to ensuring that you will receive the greatest possible value from your astronomical tour. When choosing a destination, make sure to fully consider the season and the climate of your visit. Your tour operator will brief you on such issues, as well as providing you with a checklist of clothing, gear, and other equipment recommended for your trip. If viewing night skies, time your travels, if possible, to view under a new moon, especially for a southern sky or auroral trip when the light of the moon might interfere with optimal conditions. Likewise, try to travel when the climate is the driest so as to lessen the chances of cloud cover.
If your destination is at altitude, it is good to know how you react to the effects in advance. Many people are not aware that altitude has a physical effect on individuals to varying degrees. Discuss with your tour operator and your physician any considerations that should be taken for your destination. If traveling with others, make sure that everyone is as interested in the core reason for your trip as you are, or that the tour operator makes provisions for others in your party to keep them entertained. Likewise, if traveling with children, discuss with your tour operator what provisions are available. Preparing for your astronomical tour is a relatively simple matter. You will probably want to obtain some guidebook materials on your destination. Your travel consultant can recommend some destination materials and can provide good advice with regard to your travel logistics. Research in advance the phenomenon you will be viewing, and acquaint yourself with aspects of the local culture. Make sure to pay a visit to a doctor experienced in travel medicine if you are going to any area of the world that requires special health considerations such as third world countries or areas at altitude above 8,000 feet. Most astronomical tours are not physically taxing and will require no special conditioning or physical training, and can be accomplished by persons in reasonable physical condition or with physical disabilities under normal circumstances. However, be sure to ask your tour operator about any limitations your condition might present at your destination so that your hosts can make adequate arrangements. Finally, make sure that your travel documentation such as passports and visas are arranged and are current. Now, you are all set to go, and the
sky’s is no longer the limit!
Aurora borealis (Northern lights) at Shagsanden beach, Terra Travelers | | 17 Lofoten islands, Norway
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D M
iscovering
exico’s Most Enchanting Towns
Most visitors to Mexico head straight to the country’s stunning beaches, and there’s certainly nothing wrong with that. However, there is an abundance of delights in store for those who venture beyond the beaches to Mexico’s beguiling magic towns. The Mexican tourist board has selected 132 pueblos to be included on a list of so-called ‘magic towns’. The towns are chosen for a combination of characteristics including culture, architecture, natural beauty, cuisine, and indigenous history. Although they have these traits in common, they each have a distinctive vibe of their own. Such is the
by Sue King
diverse landscape of Mexico, that magic towns can be found in deserts, jungles and mountains, and even on islands. Mexico’s large cities have their own unique qualities, but magic towns allow visitors the opportunity to relax and soak up a more laidback atmosphere. Whether you are shopping in the colorful markets, people watching in the plazas, or sampling the regional cuisine, magic towns offer a taste of authentic Mexico that just can’t be found in Cancun. To make magic towns even more alluring, often foreign tourists are few and far between. Terra Travelers | | 19
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Another bonus is that they are often located conveniently close to ancient Mayan ruins or areas of natural beauty. To whet your appetite further, here are just a handful of Mexico’s enchanting magic towns:
Palenque
Despite the fact that Palenque itself is an at-
Todos Santos Situated near the foot of the Baja Peninsula and tucked between the ocean, desert, and mountains, Todos Santos is, for want of a less cliched term, a gem. The cobbled streets are lined with colorful buildings and row after row of papel picado flutter overhead against the blue sky. Images of Baja fill the many galleries and there is a profusion of shops selling locally produced crafts. The town’s mission, which is located on the plaza, dates to 1733. The serene sound of the choir can often be heard emanating from within. If you need convincing further that Todos Santos is worthy of a visit, the town is within walking distance of a stunning, largely deserted beach where you can spot whales from the shore.
tractive pueblo with restaurants that serve tasty Mayan cuisine and local craft shops aplenty, it is the mystifying ruins, lying five miles outside town, which attracts the bulk of visitors. Situated in the north of Chiapas, the imposing Mayan ruins were abandoned around 800 AD. The reason for the sudden departure remains a mystery. Surrounded by verdant tropical jungle, exploring the impressively preserved temples, along with carvings and statues Campeche is an enthralling experience. Channel your inner Indiana Jones as the jungle comes alive with the sounds of howler monkeys and parrots, and you are As in all Mexican towns, the main plaza lies at the heart of the local community, and Campeche is no 20 | | Terra Travelers transported to the world of the ancient Mayans.
exception. At take place and and inclusive. Mexico and is ored architect strolling and t from the inten of seafood res watching peli of the day.
A suburb of G home to oodl galleries. The a central plaza tures. In the e mariachi can the plaza the p
If you’re in the market to buy a piece of art, Tlaquepaque is the ideal place to do it. The shops are brimming with everything from traditional Mexican folk to cutting- edge creations. The town is especially captivating during the Day of the Dead festival when colorful altars are erected and dancing skeletons take to the streets.
Cholula Cholula is a short jaunt from the beautiful colonial city of Puebla, around eight miles away. Home to the largest manmade pyramid on the planet, these days the pre-Hispanic structure is covered in vegetation. Below it lies a network of tunnels that can be explored with a guide. A church built on the top of the pyramid has panoramic views of the town below. The active Popocatepetl Volcano can be seen puffing away in the distance. The peaceful, shaded plaza is a perfect spot to take a seat and people watch. Check out the nearby Cholula Museum, which traces the history, art, and geology of the local area.
Tequila Named after the national tipple, the town of Tequila is encompassed by fields of blue agave, the plant from which it derives. Tequila, located in the state of Jalisco, is easy to reach from Guadalajara, Mexico’s second largest city. As expected, the town is home to historic distilleries and tequila shops galore. Even the restaurants get in on the act and serve tequila-based dishes. Most of the distilleries operate tours where tourists can learn all about the distilling process and, of course, indulge in a sample. The chances are you won’t leave this magic town without a hangover – but it’ll be worth it.
Xilitla Campeche
weekends, dances and concerts d the atmosphere is high-spirited . Campeche is located on the Gulf of s known for its attractive pastel-colture. The Malecon is perfect for the sea breeze provides pleasant relief nse Mexican heat. There is a cluster staurants, where you can dine while icans swooping in for their own catch
Tlaquepaque
Guadalajara, this vibrant barrio is les of shops, bars, restaurants, and pedestrianized main street leads to a and is adorned with quirky sculpevenings, the evocative sound of be heard as bands wander around plaza delighting the crowds.
This mountain village in the state of San Luis Potosi is known for its nearby jungle fantasyland, Las Pozas. Created by sculptor and artist, Edward James, stepping into Las Pozas is akin to being in a psychedelic dream. Towering sculptures of serpents and flowers are enshrouded in the jungle. There are trails, hidden doorways, and surprises wherever you wander. A scenic waterfall tumbles into a series of pools, surrounded by pillars, and nature merges seamlessly with art. Xilitla itself is a peaceful village and is frequently shrouded in mist due to its high altitude. Recently, an excellent new museum dedicated to the surrealist artist, Leonora Carrington, opened. Locals attired in indigenous costumes, shop at the market for tamales wrapped in banana leaves or jungle fruits, and tourist sightings are rare.
Valladolid Not only does Valladolid have a charming plaza, fine colonial architecture, and a scattering of enticing shops and restaurants, but this magic town of Yucatan also happens to be home to the largest private collection of folk art in Mexico. Casa de los Venados is the extraordinary house of US ex-pats, John and Dorianne Venator, who own the dazzling collection. Daily tours are free, and donations support local charities. Valladolid also has a cenote (limestone swimming hole) in the heart of the town - ideal for a cooling dip when the heat is overbearing. To tempt you further, the famous Mayan ruins of Chichen Itza are only twenty-five miles away and are easily accessible by bus or taxi. Terra Travelers | | 21
Living The Grand Life on
by Marcia Frost
22 | | Terra Travelers
ST. PETERSBURG eborn Florida, Is a City byRSTEVE WINSTON St. Petersburg is a city that has made one of the
most remarkable urban turnarounds in American history.
I used to travel to St. Petersburg occasionally on business in the late-90’s. Back then, it seemed a somewhat nondescript small city without a bustling business scene…but with an aging infrastructure and a quiet downtown after the sun went down. But when I began visiting St. Pete (as the locals call it) again in recent years, I was astounded at the reawakening that had taken place in the previous years. Today, St. Petersburg is a true-to-life story of a Great American Urban Revival. And it’s now one of the coolest, most interesting, most vibrant cities in America. Something new and exciting – whether in the arts, the business climate, the foodie scene, the festivals, and special events, or the attractions – is always happening here. And along with neighboring Clearwater and Clearwater Beach, people from all over America are now visiting here.
St. Pete is virtually a brand-new, youthful city, thanks in part to graduates of the local campus of the University of South Florida who’ve remained here. And in the process, their vitality and entrepreneurial spirit have contributed to the creation of this new St. Pete. Those once-decaying downtown buildings have been beautifully restored to their original classic or Deco looks, and now house innovative start-ups and entrepreneurial ventures. And these once-drab streets are now filled by artisans who’ve created one of America’s most exciting “street art” scenes. Central Avenue, once dark and quiet at night, is now lined with stylish restaurants and bars, interesting food halls and nightclubs, and very cool shops, in addition to those innovative young companies. And it’s now filled with people, day and night. Especially on the first Friday night of each month from February to November. That’s when local residents celebrate “First Friday,” a much-loved Terra Travelers | | 23
s e i d o o F lling all
Ca
local tradition that’s back after a COVID interruption. On “First Friday(s),” part of Central Avenue is closed to traffic, and lined with vendors, food trucks, street artists, special deals at restaurants and bars, samples of wonderful craft beers from a new wave of local breweries, and an atmosphere alive with laughter and fun. The neighboring community to the north, Clearwater, has its own attractions, as well, both on the land and in the water. And it’s the other partner in a region gaining great recognition. Although the St. Pete/Clearwater region has changed dramatically in recent years, it still retains one of its original treasures. St. Pete and Clearwater each front beaches to which people travel from all over America, and both beaches are consistently ranked among the best in the U.S. In fact, last year the region received more than thirty awards for its 35 miles of pristine white-sand beaches. TripAdvisor recently named three local beaches (Treasure Island, St. Pete, and Clearwater) to its list of the Top 25 in America.
TOP 25 IN FL
You’ll have wonderful weather in which to explore the beaches, too; St. Pete averages 361 days of sunshine each year and actually holds the Guinness World Record for the most consecutive days of sunshine. This beneficent weather, by the way, also helps make St. Pete and Clearwater great walking towns. St. Pete has a ton of great cultural facilities for a city
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its size. In fact, it boasts one of only six Salvador Dali Museums in the world. This striking building, called “The Dali” by locals, is a building just as provocative as the works of its namesake artist. There’s also a museum here housing the works of Dale Chihuly, widely considered the greatest glass-artist on Earth. Here, extraordinarily-hued colors and figurines will lead you to treasures each seemingly more stunning than the previous one. The modernistic Morean Arts Center offers brilliant contemporary art, along with separate clay and glass facilities with up-and-coming artists. Other noteworthy local museums include the aptly-named Imagine Museum and the brand-new Museum of The American Arts and Crafts Movement. And interestingly, here, a few thousand miles from the sagebrush and canyons of the Old West, is the wonderful James Museum of Western & Wildlife Art. In fact, St. Pete boasts more than thirty museums, performing arts companies, and cultural facilities, and “Conde Nast Traveler” recently highlighted this city in an article about small cities with big cultural scenes. One of the region’s newest – and most popular - attractions is the St. Pete Pier, just opened in late-2020. This is a year-round outdoor venue filled with culinary treats and great local experiences.
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It encompasses 26 acres on the downtown waterfront, combining the blue waters of Tampa Bay and the brilliant greenery of downtown parks. Here you can bike, walk, jog or swim. And you can relax at more than half-a-dozen cool restaurants and bars, shop for unique gifts, listen to great concerts, browse funky artworks and sculptures, take the kids to the watery experience called the Discovery Center, or just soak up the warm Florida sun …or the bright stars and moon.
Clearwater, too, has its share of fun things to do. Be sure to spend an afternoon at the state-of-theart Clearwater Marine Aquarium, dedicated to the recovery and the release of sick or injured denizens of the deep. A ride on the Clearwater Ferry Water Taxi is also a “must” while you’re here. So is Pier 60, especially for the kids. Here you’ll find a 1,080’-long fishing pier surrounded by water slides up to a few stories high. And you can cap off your day here with nightly sunset celebrations highlighting interesting local artists, craftspeople, and street performers.
And if you enjoy sampling regional brews, St. Pete’s 3 Daughters Brewing – recently named Florida’s No. 1 Tap Room -
has opened a new rooftop tasting room in Clearwater Beach. Here you’ll find dramatic views of Clearwater Harbor and Pier 60, and on-site brewing producing craft beers, hard ciders, and hard seltzers only available here. In St. Pete/Clearwater, there’s a lot to do here for sports lovers, as well. St. Pete is home to the Tampa Bay Rays baseball team, who were in the World Series just a couple of years ago. (And there’s no such thing as a rainout at their home park, Tropicana Field…because it’s a domed stadium.) The Tampa Bay Rowdies professional soccer team plays at storied Al Lang Field in downtown St. Pete, which was the spring-training home of the Chicago White Sox for more than half a century. And Clearwater’s BayCare Ballpark is the home of the Philadelphia Phillies Spring Training camp and the season-long home of the minor-league Clearwater Threshers. St. Pete/Clearwater’s calendar is also filled with great music, art, cultural and ethnic festivals. Major events include the Firestone Grand Prix of St. Petersburg, the Valspar Golf Championship, Reggae Rise Up, and Johns Pass Seafood Festival in winter; Tampa Bay Blues Festival and the wonderfully-Scottish Dunedin Highland Games & Festival in springtime; and Clearwater Jazz Holiday and SHINE St. Pete Mural Festival in Autumn. Just how “reborn” is St. Pete/Clearwater? Well, “Travel & Leisure” recently named it one of the 50 Best Places To Travel In the World.
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7
Things to see in Malaga Andalusia
Located on the southern tip of Spain in Andalusia, Málaga is said to be one of the oldest cities in Europe. You need only walk along its cobbled main streets and view the amazing architectural palaces, Roman ruins, and cathedrals towering above pedestrians. It is also known for its palm-lined, sandy beachfront and tropical weather. Here are a few things to see. 1. Plaza del Obispo
By Nadia
Plaza De La Constitución
Plaza de la Constitución (Constitution Square) is at the centre of Malaga. It gets its name from the extra large newspapers printed directly onto the surface o the ground to commemorate the first day of Spanish democracy. It was also the first place in Malaga to hold bullfights. Nowadays, it is a pedestrian zone and leads to the main attractions and shopping areas.
This square is a lovely area with an outdoor seating area for the nearby restaurants. It is home to a 1785 two-tiered, stone fountain topped by a marble pineapple. The square is surrounded by 4-5 story buildings, one of which is the Episcopal Palace. Although not what one would imagine a palace, it is still appealing. The baroque three-story building features an exterior of red, white, grey, and pink marble and was built in the 15th century. It houses a permanent exhibition of sub-Saharan artifacts. Málaga Cathedral Only steps away from Bishop Square is Málaga Cathedral. Also known as the Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación (Our Lady of Incarnation) it is a national landmark. It started out in a gothic style until another architect took over and introduced Renaissance and baroque styles. It uses marble columns, carved stone with a hint of Gothic pieces seen throughout. Do go inside to view the intricate carvings of the stalls. You can climb the stone spiral staircase of 200 steps to the rooftop for spectacular views. 26 | | Terra Travelers
M Torrons Vicens
One of the highlights of the shopping area is this family-run sweet business. The Vicen family specia lises in producing nougat made in the municipality of Agramunt in the Catalan district of Urgell in the Province of Lérida. Just look through the storefront
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windows and you will be drawn inside. There are so many varieties of nougat from hard to soft artisan and agramunt nougat. And sharing the same space is Xocolata Jolonch the oldest chocolate factory in Agramunt which was acquired by Àngel Velasco, owner of Torrons Vicens. They produce chocolate Jolonch. These are traditionally stone-baked chocolate of the highest quality. The smell is divine and free samples are available. La Alcazaba
Malaga Cathedral
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To get to La Alcazaba there is a fairly steep walk up a hill to locate this fort. It was built in the 11th century during the Muslim-ruled era of the Iberian Peninsula and served as a palace-fortress as the name indicates. There are paid guided tours around the palace gardens with elaborate fountains, patios and residential interior
fit for royalty. Sundays are free days for tourists. It is worth taking a tour to see the art, pools and architecture of the Nasrid Period.
El Teatro Romano El Teatro Romano is one of Malaga’s Roman Hispania attractions and the oldest monument dating back to the first century. We looked down from the hill above and could see the ruins of the performance stage chiseled from carved stone. Scenic Horse-drawn Carriage Ride What better way to visit the city highlight than to sit back and relax in a horse-drawn carriage? There are a number of horse carriages in the city center. All you do is linger a little and suddenly you have drivers offering you a trip. They are open to bartering if you are up to it, and as soon as you start walking away they instantly drop their prices. The 45-minute tour will take you through Alameda, the Avenida de Cervantes, the Promenade of the Park HYPERLINK “https://owaytours.com/en/guide-malaga/ monuments/malaga-cathedral/” Cathedral, and the Square of the Marina. The seafront is never far away which means it’s a nice breezy ride. Malaga Beaches The sea is in view most of the time in this city with accessible beaches offering different atmospheres from family time lazy beach to music playing parties to a beach appealing to fishermen. The closest to the city center is Malagueta. El Palo beach is a family-friendly beach and Penon del Cuervo beach caters to the party crowd with music and parties. Terra Travelers | | 27
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Making Myself At
Home
In Santiago Chile By Lesley Stones
The first time I visited Santiago five years ago, I loved it so much that I thought it could be fun to live there for a while. It felt big enough to be lively and small enough to manage, with stunning scenery and a cosmopolitan flair. Now I’m sitting on the balcony of my tiny apartment watching the snow on the Andes turn delicate shades of pink in the sunset. I’ve become more Chilestreet-smart these days so I know my rent is far too high, but in these early days of a new adventure the view alone is worth a few extra dollars a day! Six weeks in I’m still a acting like an excited tourist, visiting the museums and parks, admiring the fast and efficient public transport, trying the food with curiosity,
and the wines with enthusiasm. The city spreads out across a narrow plain between the Andes and another mountain range bordering the Pacific coast in this long and skinny country. Chile’s scenery ranges from the Atacama Desert in the north to the frozen scenery of southern Patagonia, by way of picturesque valleys full of vineyards and orchards. Santiago is the perfect hub for exploring the rest of the country since it’s smack in the middle, and it has plenty of attractions to make it worth staying for a while. I’ve spent hours strolling around the historical center, which is filled with impressive old colonial buildings. Terra Travelers | | 29
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ringing it right up to date are lively buskers, street vendors selling their goods from blankets laid on the pavement, and a friendly atmosphere as people sit around chatting in Plaza de Armas. From there it’s a short stroll to Santa Lucia, a rocky hill where the Spanish conquerors first camped when they decided this was the perfect place to establish a city in 1541. Now the hill is a park where you can admire the ostentatious façade of a building and a fountain in its plaza, then explore the twisting paths that snake up between large boulders. For a better view of the city it’s fun to take the Teleférico up Cerro San Cristóbal, a spur of the Andes that has been domesticated with cable car stations, a swimming pool and a church on top. On a clear day you can see the neat sprawl of the city below, then look east to the upmarket shopping and business district of Las Condes, dubbed Sanhattan for its gleaming skyscrapers of glass and steel. The endless buses that criss-cross the city and the frequent underground trains make getting around quick, cheap and simple. But the best way to learn the city is to just stroll along slowly and absorb the sights, sounds, and smells. For a free walking tour of the city center you can book two hours with My Super Guide, a team of young enthusiasts who are usually very entertaining because they only earn a living if you tip them. The tours are a handy way to get orientated and hear a summary of the key historical events. We sat in the autumn sunshine outside La Moneda, the presidential palace, while our guide explained about the coup that saw President Salvador Allende overthrown by Augusto Pinochet in 1973, heralding the start of a brutal 17-year dictatorship. Anyone with an interest in that dark period of history will be moved to tears by the
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Museum of Memory and hibits there include a wa to a file giving you the de protestors or political op dered or simply ‘disappe Other museums are equa rowing. The Museum of its information in Spanis language you can admire a whale hanging in the g and see dioramas of the in Chile’s very diverse la display areas feature hum sitting inside glass boxes work.
If shopping is more your ter is a little ‘village’ of q behind the monastery of non-shopper I had a grea men are proud of their w any hard sell. They’re ha and I had a long chat in S Alejandro Reid as he sho the metal and soften it w molding.
As a wine lover I was de there are plenty of viney away, and lots of guides found a guide by acciden called Dominic Gibson s when I was browsing aro edgy area of Bellavista. H of my camera, then as we is actually one of the safe America, he mentioned t vineyards. A few days la Andanzas Andinas for a Both Villard Fine Wines tours and tasting session the Chardonnays produc
d Human Rights. The exall of faces, each linking etails of more than 3,000 pponents who were mureared’ after being arrested. ally good but far less harNatural History has all sh, but even without the e the massive skeleton of grand arched entrance hall, different species that live andscapes. Two unusual mans, with its scientists s so you can watch them
r thing, the best craft cenquaint studios clustered f Los Dominicos. Even as a at time because the craftswork and don’t give you appy to explain their art, Spanglish with silversmith owed me how he flattens with a blowtorch ready for
elighted to discover that yards only an hour’s drive willing to take you. I nt, when a British expat started chatting to me ound the arty but slightly He warned me to take care e chatted about how Chile est countries in South that he runs tours to the ater I joined his company trip to Casablanca Valley. and Bodegas Re gave us ns in English, and I loved ced in this valley where
where mists rolling in from the ocean make the climate perfect for white cultivars. As we drove back home at sunset, the pink-tinged Andes made a magnificent backdrop to the city. Those mountains really have me hooked, although I have no intention of ever climbing them. But I did have a great day out in the foothills at the tranquil Baha’i Temple. It’s easy to reach because 10 or 12 different buses stop outside the temple gates, including one that I can catch from right outside my apartment. Then there’s a steep 30-minute walk up a road to reach the temple, where the guides will tell you about the building and the Baha’i faith then leave you to explore. It’s open to anyone regardless of religion, and I imagine everyone must feel some stirring of the soul when they walk around the gardens dwarfed by the mountains, or sit in silence inside this stunning building of glass and translucent marble. On the journey back I stopped at a kiosk selling what some people hail as Chile’s national drink – mote con huesillos. Huesillos is Spanish for bones, which refers to the dried peaches that form the heart of the drink. The peaches are cooked in syrupy water until they’re plump and juicy again, then plopped into a glass and topped up with the syrupy juice. Here comes the weird bit - a handful of cooked wheat is stirred in as well. Apparently it’s a throwback to the days when the native Mapuche population served wheat with everything. The peach and the juice parts are delicious, but I’m not convinced about the wheat. Since drinks that you have to chew are not my style, I reckon I’ll stick to the wine.
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Luxury
mini-cruising in the Adriatic:
The best way to experience
Croatia 32 | | Terra Travelers
is by boat
by Isabel Putinja
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ith a super long Adriatic coastline, over 1200 islands and islets, beaches lapped by crystal clear waters, and dozens of scenic coastal towns, the best way to see Croatia by far is by boat. Forget what you think you know about cruise ships. A much more comfortable and convenient way to travel by sea is by taking a mini-cruiser charter. Imagine sailing on a luxury yacht with your closest friends or dearest ones, and having the boat all to yourselves. Best of all, you can plan your own custom tour for your small group, making stops wherever you please. “Mini-cruising is the best way to experience Croatia,” says Zvonimir Androic, President of Via Tours Croatia, a luxury mini-cruising charter company. “We charter luxury mini cruisers and offer a concierge service that includes hundreds of customized tours led by private local guides. This is how our clients get to explore all the local hotspots and secluded places you can only explore by boat.”
“This focus on local experiences continues on board,” he adds, “with fully-customized menus of regional dishes prepared with fresh local products. Another thing that sets us apart is that in addition to the usual on-board amenities like a cinema, outdoor gym, sauna, jacuzzi, pool, and gym, our mini cruisers are decked out with water toys such as jet skis, tubes or skis, seabobs, SUPs, and sea kayaks.” Looking for a memorable way to explore Croatia’s coast? Here are a few of the best experiences of Croatia you can enjoy by boat.
Take in seaside heritage sites Many of Croatia’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites are located right on the Adriatic coast. Seaside Dubrovnik’s spectacular walled old town was recognized by UNESCO back in 1979. Inside its massive fortified walls are a maze of narrow lanes of limestone stretching in a neat grid pattern from the Stradun, the main thoroughfare. After exploring them, head up to the top of the 10th century
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walls from where you can circumnavigate the entire old town and take in the panoramic views over the city’s terracotta rooftops and turquoise waters of the Adriatic Sea. Since the 4th century, Diocletian’s Palace has been Split’s ancient waterfront landmark. The UNESCO-listed palace of the former Roman emperor is a mini-city of 200 buildings, including many churches and chapels. Climb the cathedral’s bell tower for views over the open-air palace and old town, and nearby islands. The medieval city of Trogir is actually a tiny island and another historical UNESCO site. Linked to the mainland by two bridges, and a third to Čiovo island, this is a compact treasure trove of Romanesque churches, Baroque buildings, and a cathedral that dates back to Venetian times. Delightful Šibenik boasts not one but two UNESCO World Heritage sites. The magnificent dome of its 15th century St. Jame’s Cathedral dominates 34 | | Terra Travelers
the skyline of this coastal city, which is also home to four fortresses, including the island fortress of St Nicholas, added to UNESCO’s list in 2017.
Get close to nature The western end of Mljet island is a national park covering 20 square miles of protected forests of Aleppo pines and holm oaks. The park’s star attraction is the 12th century St. Mary’s monastery situated on a tiny isle floating in the middle of Veliko Jezero lake, one of two saltwater lakes. Okukle is Croatia’s oldest coastal settlement and one of only 19 on the island, many of which are fishing villages. Another national park that can be reached by boat is Krka, known for its impressive waterfalls, cascades, and turquoise lakes. Travel upstream along the Krka River to Skradinski Buk, the largest of the park’s many falls, cascading down 17 tiers.
Sample local gastronomy
Thanks to its many gastronomic delights, Croatia attracts lovers of good food. Have a slow food experience by joining a cooking class and learning how to prepare Dalmatian specialties like pašticada (marinated beef stewed with tomatoes, parsnips, prunes, nutmeg and prošek wine), or brodet, a fish stew. In the rustic ambiance of traditional eateries called konoba, sample the local cuisine prepared homestyle. Seafood tends to dominate menus: try the crni rižoto (“black risotto”) prepared with squid ink and cuttlefish, a Dalmatian favorite. Or join a gastro tour and visit the cellars of local wine and olive oil producers. Most wineries and olive farms are family-run, and offer expert-led tastings of their high quality wines and extra virgin olive oil.
Tour Game of Thrones locations Several locations on the Dalmatian coast served as dramatic backdrops in the popular Game of Thrones series. Set foot in King’s Landing with a visit to Dubrovnik, a city whose fortified walls and tower are now familiar to audiences around the world. Join a Game of Thrones tour and see the Jesuit staircase, now better known as the Walk of Shame, Minčeta Tower which was Qarth’s House of the Undying, towering St. Lawrence Fortress (a.k.a. the Red Keep), and Gradac Park which you’ll recognize as the site of the Purple Wedding feast. On the nearby island of Lokrum you can sit on a replica of the Iron Throne, and then head 12 miles north of Dubrovnik to see the leafy gardens of the Trsteno Arboretum, a favorite haunt of the Tyrells. In Split, you’ll get a sense of déjà vu in the cobblestone lanes of Diocletian’s Palace, another Game of Thrones backdrop, while just a few miles outside the city center looms the clifftop fortress of Klis, or the city of Meereen.
Adventures on the water Just below the inviting waters of the Adriatic Sea is a surprising underwater world that can be explored on a snorkeling or diving adventure. Don a mask, snorkel
and fins to see the colorful flora and fauna of Kornati National Park, a surprising archipelago of 89 islands and islets. Prefer to stay above the water? Get on a board and try windsurfing or paddle boarding. Or join a river rafting expedition past waterfalls and canyons on the Cetina, a 65-mile long river that empties into the Adriatic Sea at the town of Omiš. Join a sunset kayaking tour in Dubrovnik for a slowpaced paddle while taking in the gorgeous views of the fortified city bathed in the glow of the sun descending into the sea.
Explore on two wheels Cycling is a fantastic way to take in the spectacular sea views and lush scenery at a relaxed pace while leaving a small eco-footprint. A popular route to explore on two wheels is the trail through Krka National Park which runs along the Krka river past thundering waterfalls and cascades. The long and narrow peninsula of Pelješac is another favorite with cyclists with plenty of opportunities to stop for a dip at one of the many sandy beaches and hidden pebble coves. Terra Travelers | | 35
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