B
angkok is a city that reveals itself one street, one alley and path at a time. After two weeks I continued to venture further each day, walking and taking tuk-tuks to different sections of the city, keeping my bearing by knowing where the Chao Phraya river was situated relative to my location at all times. The Chao Phraya was my main transportation route each day as I visited by water taxi the many temples in the city in a quest to see the city and acquaint myself with its twists and turns. I was on my own, for only a weekend, without a guide, and I was in search of Buddhas. Not THE Buddha, but some of the amazing statues of the Buddha situated in the “wats,” or Buddhist temples, in the city. It takes only a few minutes in Bangkok to be awash in the Buddhist culture everywhere present, visible in the city’s temples, spirit houses and yellow and orange robed monks. More than 95% of the population is Buddhist and every male Thai is a monk for at least some brief period of their life before the age of 20, typically for 2 - 3 months. Nationwide, there are more than 30,000 temples in Thailand and many of these house monks. Buddhism arrived as early as 250 BC and mixed with animistic Chinese beliefs. The Thai King is the primary patron of Buddhism and the monarchy inextricably intertwines with belief. The historical Buddha lived 500 years before Christ in Nepal and
14 || Terra Travelers
was born with the name Siddhartha Emerald Buddha. The gold seasonal Gautama into a royal family. There are many, many, many Buddha images in Bangkok, too numerous to count but absolutely a wonder to experience. Here are my top four, the ones that now travel with me as I think back to the time I spent in Bangkok. On my first visit to Bangkok, almost 20 years ago, I visited the temple Wat Phra Kaeo, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha located inside the walls of the Grand Palace. The Temple is situated on the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River. Though the Royal Family no longer lives in the Grand Palace, many official state functions and ceremonies are still held on the grounds. The Emerald Buddha is Thailand’s most revered Buddha image and many legends surround its history, beginning in 1434 when, according to the story, lightening hit a tree in a northern province near Chiang Rai and the Buddha was found inside the tree coated in stucco which peeled off to reveal an emerald green jade statue.
“The Emerald Buddha is only 26 inches high and has three sets of gold seasonal costumes.”
e. dawson ric
clothing is changed by the King of Thailand three times a year in a Shoes are removed as visitors to venerable, sacred ceremony. the wat enter into the room with My original plan was to visit the the diminutive statue set high on most interesting Buddha images in a pedestal. Worshipers kneel or sit Bangkok, but realized only two hours quietly before the Buddha image. Appropriate dress is important, and away was Thailand’s largest Buddha. shorts, tights, singles, sweatshirt and What I hadn’t counted on was the series of hops it would take to cover fisherman trousers are not allowed. the distance. The Great Buddha is It is important never to point at a Buddha image with your feet. Shoes located in Wat Muang in Ang Thong are removed as you enter the temple. province north of Bangkok, and if you have your own transportation, With the exception of the King or two hours is close to correct once another member of the Royal Family, you are free of the traffic-snarling no one is allowed to touch the roadways of Bangkok. I, however,
