TERRA
TRAVELERS
Extraordinary Findings in the World of Travel
Vol. 7 | Spring 2021
The
EUROPE issue
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Publisher’s Letter
On the Road Again? What a long, strange trip it’s been. If you are reading this magazine in the spring of 2021, the chances are very good you have a terrible case of cabin fever. How long has it been since you took a flight to anywhere, spent the night in a hotel, jumped in a cab, or stared out the window of a train? How strange the past year has been from so many perspectives, and not the least of it is our emaciated travel plans. What must our passports think happened to us? Travel will return soon, spurred by an increasing number of people vaccinated or simply willing to hit the road after so many months of being shut-in. If you haven’t yet made a road trip, that may be first on your agenda, and then as countries open up, that first airline ticket purchase. Already countries like Costa Rica, Belize, Poland, Croatia, and Iceland are accepting arrivals. Is it safe to travel now? That is such a personal question it is unanswerable in the abstract. Everyone has to decide for themselves when they are ready. Certainly, we have seen busier airports and destinations in Mexico are already seeing increases in the number of tourists visiting. But for each of us, the decision to travel absolutely must be a personal choice when you and your traveling companions are confident and willing.
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From the reports of the travelers we know, the hotels and resorts are doing a very good job of maintaining high protocols for cleanliness and service. Outside of some well publicized incidents on airplanes by people refusing to wear masks and being removed, the airlines appear to be managing well. Many travelers are choosing less well-traveled destinations where distancing and a degree of control over-crowded spaces is possible. For our clients, we are monitoring the situation and keeping tabs on the requirements, the availability of flexible cancellation policies, and, of course, travel insurance, especially “Cancel for Any Reason” policies. We stay on top of the CDC recommendations and, through our industry resources, speak with other travel professionals about their clients’ travels. The good news? It won’t be as long as it has been before you will be packing your suitcase, stepping outside your door and heading off on your next trip. If nothing else, we won’t be taking our travel opportunities for granted again. So please accept this issue with our best hopes and wishes. Treat this as a set of daydreams or a way of sizing up the possibilities for your first trip back to Europe when you feel the time is right.
TERRA TRAVELERS EXTRAORDINARY FINDINGS IN TRAVEL
PUBLISHER Richard B. Earls
EDITOR Joey DeLoach
AUTHORS Terra Travelers Staff
EDITORIAL & CREATIVE DESIGN Mariana Saca
MARKETING EXECUTIVES Randi White
CIRCULATION & SUBSCRIPTION Mariana Saca
CUSTOMER SERVICE Erin von Scherrer
Terra Travelers seeks to inspire a community of likeminded individuals that respect the road, respect the people we visit, and those with whom we travel.
60 Second geography: Copenhagen In Copenhagen, you feel Norse blood immediately coursing through your veins, the way water courses through its canals lined with narrow, patchwork-colored buildings. Water is as much a part of the experience of Copenhagen as the art, culture, and architecture. The city is mainly situated on the island of Amager in the Øresund Strait that forms the Danish-Swedish border. The Swedish city of Malmö is just about an hour away on the other side of the straight by boat. A former Viking fishing village, Copenhagen is a city of castles and modern culture. While the city fully embraces its contemporary identity, echoes from times of old are present with every stone and spire set into historic buildings. Rosenborg Castle Rosenborg Castle is tucked away in a park called the King’s Garden. While the park was once the setting of King Christian IV’s private residence, it is now the most popular park to visit in Copenhagen. Within the walls of this 400-year-old castle, I toured the private treasures of the kings and queens who once ruled Denmark. The highlight of the castle is its great hall featuring coronation thrones guarded by three live-sized silver lions. The nation’s royal jewels are also on display here. The Tivoli Gardens When you look around at the Tivoli Fountains, you can almost convince yourself that you’ve arrived in someplace that’s a cross between Disneyland and Las Vegas. This is a fully lit, glittery amusement park breathed into
existence right in the center of Copenhagen. I was amazed to find this amusement park originally opened as a pleasure garden in 1843. While this park is equipped with worldclass rides like coasters, a Ferris wheel, and a carousel, you don’t need to be a big fan of thrills and spills to enjoy a lovely day here. The themed worlds within the park are entertaining to look at. My favorite spot in the park was a mirrored lake called Dragon Boat Lake that stands under the shadow of a lit Chinese tower. The National Museum of Denmark If you want to “meet the Danes” during your Copenhagen vacation, I highly recommend putting an afternoon aside to tour the National Museum of Denmark. The museum is Denmark’s largest institution of cultural history. It is an interdisciplinary museum covering archeology, culture, natural science, and much more. Notably, the exhibits here actually span 14,000 years of Danish history and prehistory! Everything from Viking practices to the religious influences of Denmark’s high church during the Middle Ages is nicely represented. Odds and Ends to See in Denmark I generally live by the rule that you can’t truly know a city until you’ve traversed its outdoor markets. That’s precisely why I found Torvehallerne to be such a memorable site. Comprising more than 60 food stands, Torvehallerne is a covered, open-air marketplace right in the center of the city where you can nibble on all kinds of bites in a vibrant outdoor environment. Take your time
as you shop for wines, chocolates and fruits. For lunch, I enjoyed a Danish open sandwich that the locals refer to as smørrebrød. Next, I scrambled over to the Copenhagen Zoo because I could not miss an opportunity to visit one of the oldest zoos in Europe. Housed on acreage that was once the summer garden of Princess Vilhelmin, the zoo is now home to one of the top European breeding programs. It is also home to various exotic species like the Schmitz’s caracal, the East African chimpanzee and the Amur leopard. No trip to Copenhagen would be complete without a visit to the Little Mermaid. The statue commemorates Hans Christian Andersen’s genius and is embedded on a rock at the Langelinie Harbour. The statue is one of Copenhagen’s most visited attractions with more than a million visitors every year.
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CONTENT
6 amsterdam 8 madrid 10 bruges 12 oxford Terra Travelers || 4
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16 budapest 18 edinburg 20 vienna 22 salzburg 24 zagreb 5 || Terra Travelers
AMSTERDAM Amsterdam’s Golden-Age canals, exciting museums, and exotic shops make for a one-of-a-kind vacation.
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ome to unforgettable landmarks like the Van Gogh Museum and Anne Frank House, Amsterdam is the jewel of the Netherlands. The city has earned a nickname as the “Venice of the North” due to its extensive canal system. As you make your way on foot around the city, you will take in views of tall, thin canal houses with embellished gables dating back to the Dutch Golden Age (1588 to 1672). The settling foundations of the buildings makes their profiles lean slightly askew left and right, taking on a most wondrous, fantastical aspect. Amsterdam is a cosmopolitan city where the worlds of art, finance, and history come together in a refined fashion. In addition to being the cultural capital of the Netherlands, Amsterdam is a financial center of Europe due to the positioning of the Amsterdam Stock Exchange. In the city’s De Wallen district, the famed red lights of Amsterdam signal some of the wilder bars and exotic coffee shops where people from around the world come to experience uninhibited Europe. During my trip to Amsterdam, I was lucky enough to visit a few of the worldclass treasures nestled within the city. Before I get into the best things to see in Amsterdam, I’ll add the disclaimer that the time to go is between the middle of April and the early part of May if you want to experience Holland’s tulip season.
THE BLOEMENMARKT The Bloemenmarkt is Amsterdam’s floating flower market. I highlight it as a must-see attraction simply because there’s nothing like it in all of Europe. Founded in 1862, the market is positioned on the city’s Singel Canal. Terra Travelers || 6
Within the floating market, you’ll find more than a dozen shops. It’s the ultimate place in the city to pick up keepsakes to bring back home. I spent a good chunk of an afternoon browsing windmill trinkets, Dutch chocolates, and other unique treasures. Bloemenmarkt is also the best spot in the city to pick up Dutch tulip bulbs. I even picked up some fresh-cut Dutch tulips for my hotel room to bring in the scents of the Dutch countryside as I relaxed in the evenings.
RIJKSMUSEUM I would consider a visit to Rijksmuseum, the base of any Amsterdam vacation. The ultimate museum of the Netherlands, Rijksmuseum houses works by Rembrandt, Vermeer, Frans Hals, and many more. Rijksmuseum also happens to be housed in the same square as the Van Gogh museum. This museum is very nicely laid out to allow you to maximize your visit. It also has some charming attached gardens. While the blooms are regularly changed up at the museum, I happened to be lucky enough to be visiting when a sunflower installation was on display.
THE JORDAAN
On the suggestion of a friend who has spent a good chunk of time in Amsterdam for work, I decided to book a hotel located in the city’s Jordaan neighborhood, a leap of faith because I had never heard of this little corridor before my visit. Jordaan is very aptly considered to be the Greenwich Village of Amsterdam. Full of narrow passageways and canal contours obscured by leafy trees, Jordaan is a hip spot full of the best lowkey cafés and restaurants in the city. The specialty shops and indie boutiques in the
neighborhood made treasure trove of und is a top spot if you’r stall markets. At th market, you’ll find e organic food. Antiqu a wonderland of vinta watercolor paintings also an active neighb seems to get around cycle. If you find your Amsterdam Cheese M the cheese tasting, I tion in the artistry of
AMSTERDAM CE
This next attraction practical and archite
e it feel like I was mining a discovered gems. Jordaan re in love with European he Noordermarkt square everything from jewels to ues Centre Amsterdam is age artwork ranging from s to antique ceramics. It’s borhood where everyone d on foot, bike, or motorr way here, don’t miss the Museum! While I went for left with a proper educaf Holland’s cheeses.
est railway station in Amsterdam, Amsterdam Centraal is truly the hub of the country. It will get you to various points around the country. It’s also a great gateway between the city and Schiphol Airport. This beautiful structure from 1889 now houses a variety of shops and restaurants.
AMSTERDAM EXCURSIONS TO CONSIDER
Before wrapping up my Amsterdam itinerary, I want to highlight a few of the excursions that made my visit memorable. The first was a guided biking tour through Vondelpark. Amsterdam’s Vondelpark is an urban park in the ENTRAAL STATION middle of Amsterdam, covering 120 acres. n makes my list for both I’m thankful that I decided to go on a guided ectural reasons. The larg- journey because I would have missed many
of the sculptures and other gems inside the park if I had tried to do this on my own. If you visit, take your time to enjoy touches like an open-air theatre and food-service stations. The second excursion that really put a bow on my Amsterdam vacation was a boat tour. You’re not going to have any trouble booking one of these because there are tons of tour operators in the city. My particular boat tour took me through the city’s narrow canals to get what felt like a very intimate, inside-out view of the hustle and bustle. From the boat, Amsterdam looked like a movie set full of gingerbread houses and medieval squares.
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Madrid is a city with centuries-old charm and culture.
Finding myself adrift in Madrid for a few days, I decided to do my best to see all that Spain’s capital offers. The opposite of a tour as carefully orchestrated as a flamenco set, my trip was mostly a self-guided walkabout of architecture and culture that landed me at many popular attractions within this Iberian paradise. I was also able to squeeze in times for tapas and a quick wine tour. Madrid’s landscape took my breath away. I was fascinated by how Madrid’s layout and architecture mirrored what I’ve seen in many other European capitals while also bringing in an extra element of whimsy with its “fairytale” buildings and abundant palm trees.
The Royal Palace of Madrid
The Royal Palace of Madrid is Europe’s largest palace. Built from 1738 to 1764, this record-breaking estate boasts more than 3,400 rooms spread out over more than 1 million square feet. I chose this as my first sightseeing adventure and it was only a 10-minute walk away from my hotel near Plaza Mayor. The walk from the plaza area to the palace is an adventure of its own. Knowing that I’d be passing right by the famed San Miguel Market, I skipped breakfast, intending to pick up coffee and churros at this covered gastronomic wonderland that has been a staple of the city since 1916. The route from my hotel near the plaza to the palace also allowed me to do some quick sightseeing at the Almudena Cathedral and Plaza de la Villa. One of the oldest squares in Madrid, Plaza de la Villa contains a number of buildings dating back to the Middle Ages.
Gran Via While Madrid is known for its wide, beautiful boulevards, there is nothing in the Spanish capital that tops Gran Via. Considered one of Madrid’s main arteries, Gran Via is essentially Spain’s “Broadway.” The historic theaters on this street host live flamenco performances, Spanish ballets, comedy shows, and plays. Gran Via the city’s “high fashion” street that houses both Spanish and international luxury retailers, and is also known for its excellent restaurants and rooftop bars. It’s a wonderful spot to hit if you’re looking for a very safe, mainstream way to enjoy the Spanish nightlife. I highly recommend finding a restaurant on Gran Via that serves strawberry gazpacho for dessert!
Plaza de Cibeles My visit to Plaza de Cibeles is a snapshot seared into my memory. I arrived in the evening when the beautiful fountains and Cybele chariot statue were all lit up and the scene was nothing short of dazzling. While The Plaza de Cibeles square is lovely during the day, I recommend seeing it after dark to get the full surreal scope of its beauty in the nightime lights.
Parque del Retiro Parque del Retiro is a little retreat within Madrid that I happened to stumble upon on my way out of the Prado Museum. The Prado itself is an excellent attraction to put on your Madrid itinerary if seeing pieces by Velasquez and Goya happens to be on your bucket list. Feeling full of inspiration and appreciation for Spain on a whole new level following my museum tour, I found my way to gorgeous Parque del Retiro to relax beside a beautiful lake buffered by an ornate marble promenade. It was an unexpected treat to walk among cypress trees and manicured gardens that were once part of private gardens belonging to Spain’s royal family. The park also houses Madrid’s Crystal Palace. Built in 1887 by Ricardo Velázquez Bosco to hold tropical plants, the Crystal Palace is a conservatory tucked away in the wilds of the city’s most peaceful park. Finally, I was able to visit Madrid’s historic La Latina neighborhood for a few hours on the day I was scheduled to fly out of Madrid–Barajas Airport. I was told by friends who have spent time in Madrid that I was not to leave the city without having tapas in this corner of downtown. Populated with narrow streets and oversized squares, La Latina is located in the oldest part of Madrid. Over the years, La Latina has become home to the best concentration of tapas bars in the city. If you make the trek, focus on the cluster of bars on Calle Cava Baja and Calle Cava Alta. The neighborhood’s metro station and bus stops ensure that you won’t really feel like you’re going too far out of your way just to get tapas. If you’re spending a day at the Royal Palace of Madrid, the route to La Latina is walkable if a bit long!
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BRUGES
Spires, canals and breweries in the lovely medieval town of Bruges.
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The call of Belgian canals, cobbled passageways leading to covered markets, and medieval spires reflected in the gently flowing mirror of the river Reie should be enough to inspire you to book a vacation to Bruges. The capital of West Flanders, Bruges is a classic European port city known for its ornate buildings, rich history, and magical sophistication. While your eyes take in the sights, your other senses will take in the smells and tastes of Belgian waffles, beers, and chocolates. If you have Bruges on your bucket list, you’ll want to know about the key places to visit in this
Venice-like city tucked into Western Eu- attrac rope. cial C Bruge crow Top Spots to See During a sticky Bruges Whirlwind by ve Every visit to Bruges really must start in was w the city’s historic heart. A UNESCO World rising Heritage Site, the Historic Center of Brucheer ges shows off what a preserved medieval your historic settlement looks like once it meets with the modern-day. The next best place for the p really feeling Bruges in your bones is Marhand ket Square (the Markt). Used as a market ages since 958, this beautiful square contains
ctions like the West Flanders ProvinCourt and the 12th-century Belfry of es. As you take in a serene view of wds mulling about while nibbling on y, sweet treats purchased from nearendors, try to picture the square as it when medieval festivals, political upgs and brutal executions brought both rs and cries to the stones beneath feet. If you’re looking to go home some authentic Belgian gifts, this is place to stock up on everything from dicrafts to desserts. A site of pilgrimfor centuries, the Basilica of the Holy
Blood in Bruges contains a religious object that is reported to be a relic of the blood of Jesus brought back from the Holy Land by Thierry of Alsace upon his return from the Second Crusade in 1150. Both the religious and nonreligious can admire the history and beauty of this church. It contains what historians consider to be a pristine preservation of the Romanesque style in Europe. While I mentioned the Belfry of Bruges briefly when talking about Market Square, I did want to go back to emphasize the importance of giving this attraction a thorough visit. One of the most prominent symbols of Bruges, the belfry has been a crucial part of city life for centuries because it’s been used as everything from a treasury to an observation post for spotting fire breakouts. A stunning medieval bell tower, the belfry is more than 2,000 feet tall, (and central to the Collin Farrell movie In Bruges)! When it’s open, visitors can climb nearly to the top to take in views of the city below. From the top, Bruges seemed to me to be a patchwork quilt with little streaks of velvet in the places where the river crossed under canals. However, you’ll need to be in shape to cover 366 steps that get narrow at points if you want to get to the prized view at the top. If you can’t make it to the top, do spend some time admiring the exterior while having lunch in Market Square.
The Brewery Tours
I can’t give an overview of Bruges without providing comments on how to do an authentic Belgian brewery tour in the city. Home to some of the best breweries on the planet, Bruges has an entire cottage industry based on brewery tours. As far as individual breweries, De Halve Maan Brewery is the star. You can buy your tickets online to make it easier to ensure you’ll get in
for a tour during the time that you’ve set aside. It took about 45 minutes for my guide to bring our small group through the working brewery. Along the way, he provided both historical tidbits about the brewing campus and insights about the brewing process. At the conclusion, tour participants are invited for a tasting. Another attraction that caught my interest while in Bruges was the Bruges Beer Experience. This is a beer museum perched right at Market Square, where you can get a true education in all things related to Belgian beer! Learn about everything from how Trappist monks perfected brewing techniques to how modern bottlers keep shelves stocked when you complete a tour. To provide an understanding of the anatomy of beer, the museum even allows you to taste, smell and touch all of the ingredients that go into beer.
Tips for Getting Around Bruges
The biggest “travel hack” to know about Bruges is that this is a very small city. In fact, your feet are your best vehicle for getting around. You can essentially cover the city end to end in about an hour! I personally prefer walking my way through the city simply because each bit of architecture is a jewel that can’t be properly studied from the passenger seat of an Uber car. That said, there is a very dependable bus service in Bruges that takes you between the main station and City Centre every five minutes. If you are arriving in Bruges via the Bruges Train Station, you can reach Market Square by foot in just 20 minutes to be near most of the hotels and rental apartments. However, you can also wait for a bus marked either #12 or #3 to get to the market area.
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OXFORD Oxford is a prestigious University town offering modern charm and centuries of history
Home to one of the world’s most prestigious universities, Oxford is an architectural, intellectual, and historical gem of England. This small city has the distinction of hosting every style of English architecture starting from the late Anglo-Saxon period forward. While university life dominates much of the city’s culture, there is much more to Oxford than the University of Oxford. Tours of distilleries, afternoon tea by the river and walks in beautiful parks all wait to give visitors an education in UK living. One of the nicer things about touring the City of Spires, as Oxford is called, is that most attractions are within walking distance. However, there is a reasonably simple bus system that can help you to access landmarks. As a university town, Oxford is also very bike-friendly. You will find bikes a preferred mode of transportation for many students. For the cacsual traveler, however, walking is certainly the best way to see the town, and in doing so, you are likely to come across pubs and locations that will appear familiar to you if you are a fan of British and U.S. American television series and movies such as Inspector Morse, Brideshead Revisited, A Discovery of Witches, His Dark Materials, Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy and many others!
A Walking Tour of Oxford University
Beginning on Broad Street, a proper walking tour of Oxford brings you through the University Church of St. Mary the Virgin, the Bodleian Library, and the many colleges contained withTerra Travelers || 12
in the campus. There’s no need to try to map out the Oxford campus on your own. The University offers alumni-led tours that allow you to walk in the footsteps of someone with firsthand knowledge of every building and sidewalk. Once the tour has concluded, create an additional adventure with a visit to the world-class Oxford University Museum of Natural History to see a list of zoological specimens that includes the famed Oxfordshire dinosaurs. If you are physically capable of climbing an imposing set of stairs, be sure to climb your way into the heights of the University Church of St. Mary the Virgin not only for the exercise, but to experience one of best views of the city’s towers and spires.
The C.S. Lewis House
Referred to as the Kilns, this home nestled in the outskirts of Oxford is where C.S. Lewis completed the books that brought the world of Narnia to life. Built in 1922, the home is now operated by the C.S. Lewis Foundation. Tours can be scheduled by appointment. Be sure to also visit the Eagle and Child, the pub with Lewis, J.R.R. Tolkien and the “Inklings” met on a regular basis to engage their intellectual and philosophical passions.
The Oxford Castle and Prison
Transporting you back 1,000 years into the past, this castle was built by Robert O’Doyly following the victory of William the Conqueror at the Battle of Hastings in 1066. Today, tourists can climb 101 steps up St. George’s
Tower to see 365-degree views from one of the oldest structures in Oxford. Guests can also visit an underground crypt dating back 900 years that is said to be where Geoffrey of Monmouth penned tales of King Arthur. The castle remained active as a prison throughout the 20th century, only shutting down to become a tourism attraction and hotel property in 1996!
The Bridge of Sighs
Modeled after the Bridge of Sighs in Venice, Oxford’s Bridge of Sighs links together the old and new buildings of the quadrangles of Hertford College. In addition to being beautiful, the landmark creates a great photo opportunity. It is also a high-usage bridge that members of the college cross hourly.
The Covered Market
Oxford’s famed Covered Market is a lovely historic covered market located just north of High Street between Cornmarket Street and Turl Street. Accessed from High Street or Market Street and in use since opening in 1774, the covered market is still home to numerous traders and retailers. Several of the butchers that occupy stalls here sell the famed Oxford sausage featuring distinct varieties of pork and veal.
A River Cruise
One of the best activities to partake in while spending time touring Oxford is a decadent “teatime river cruise” on the River Thames. During this uniquely British experience that follows the university’s regatta course, guests enjoy treats like finger sandwiches and cream
scones while taking in views of Oxford landmarks like the University of Oxford Boat Houses, the Iffley Lock, and lush Christ Church Meadow.
Christ Church Meadow
Oxford’s oasis, Christ Church Meadow, is a flood-meadow along the River Thames where locals come for long walks and picnics—easily accessed while on the Oxford campus; this open stretch of land contains everything from grazing cattle to university sports fields. The meadow area is open to the public during daylight.
University of Oxford’s official museum of art and archaeology. It houses a world-famous collection of Egyptian mummies truly worth visiting. The museum also houses stunning, rare artwork collections by Michelangelo, Raphael, Leonardo da Vinci, Titian, Pablo Picasso, Samuel Palmer, and many more. The Ashmolean houses Anglo-Saxon gold coins, Sumerian texts, Roman gold glass roundels from the Catacombs of Rome, the Kish tablet, Arab ceremonial dress owned by Lawrence of Arabia and many more treasures of the world.
holiday, Oxford is one of the world’s most important cultural and academic hubs. When leaving from London’s Paddington Station, the journey to Oxford takes just 60 minutes. On most days, trains depart every 30 minutes or buses from London’s Marble Arch. Finally, don’t hesitate to travel into the surrounding countryside. My favorite attraction? The Uffington White Horse, a prehistoric site etched into a mountainside just out of town, likely constructed more than 3,000 years ago!
In short, anyone can receive a proper education in Oxford even if they don’t enroll in the city’s prestigious univerFounded in 1683, the Ashmolean Mu- sity. A worthy place to disappear to seum of Art and Archaeology is the for a while if you’re in London for a
The Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology
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istanbul Tea with the Locals
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es, the British and the Japanese have their tea customs and rituals, and I wouldn’t want to take away from the special nature of either of those cultures. But if I had to choose where I would most like to have a cup of tea with the locals, it would be Istanbul. Tea shops are a focal point for street level Turkish culture and most good things happen in the presence of a cup of fine Turkish tea. The Turkish people prefer the black tea (or Cay in Turkish) and it is at the center of daily life there, offered everywhere as a gesture of hospitality both before and after meals. Because the drink is served strong, it is typically offered in small cups, boiling hot. The locals drink it sweet, but with no milk, and cut to taste with additional hot water. Find a traditional setting with cushions on the floor and low copper tables or sit at an outdoor cafe, but slow down, relax and enjoy. Tea is a good place to begin understanding how to visit Turkey perched on the dividing line between Europe and Asia. This is a land of relationships, where time sits still to permit you to go about getting to know your surroundings. Here, travelers are welcomed and greeted with both respect and curiosity. The antiquities, thermal pools, coastline and Turkish baths are all there waiting to be explored, but it is in the marketplace with the people that Turkey is best experienced, because it is there that the warmth and culture of this ancient civilization is authentically expressed.
archetype of all shopping experiences. Enjoy a thermal pool – the country is blessed with a large number of rich mineral water springs. Turkey’s geographic location right above a volcanically active belt provides the nation with a rich abundance of natural hot springs and mineral baths with temperatures that vary from 68 to 230 degrees Fahrenheit! The healing properties and therapeutic effects of the waters are renown. Visit Pergamum – once the cultural center of the region the ruins here hint at the grandeur of the civilization that has camped on these hillsides in times past. The extraordinary theater at Pergamum was constructed in the 3rd century B.C. In the Acropolis, you will see the remains of both the temple of Athena and the ruins of the Library with once contained 200,000 texts, a wedding gift to Cleopatra by Mark Anthony. Cruise the Turquoise Coast – Turkey’s rugged coastline shares with Greece a sense of history unmatched elsewhere. Here are the beginnings of classical civilization, and the mists of history lift only in part to give us a glimpse of the stories of Turkish and Greek mythologies. Day-long excursions provide a leisurely opportunity to take in the beauty of the mountains and the ruins, the bluest of waters and the wonderful breezes. Or spend time at Ölüdeniz Beach and let the Mediteranean sun do its work.
Explore the Lycian Tombs – the sarcophagi, carved into the vertical cliffs are dramatic and mysteriBesides the tea, here is a short list of “must do” experi- ous. The quality of the stone masonry, the originality of ences when you visit Istanbul: Lycian art and the visible detail after all of these centuries is remarkable. The tombs are often integrated into Experience a Haman – the Turkish bath with its the daily commercial areas of the towns and markets, or vigorous scrubbing, hot water and ambiance is an expe- visible from the water. rience, a cultural episode that ranks with running with the bulls in Spain or a Thai massage. There are a number Visit Nemrut – A UNESCO world heritage site, the of historic Turkish baths in Istanbul and practically every colossal statues on the top of Mountain of Nemrut in city of any size. Do yourself a favor. the north-east of Adiyaman are the tomb of King Antiochus I (69-38 B.C.). Visit the covered bazaar – The Grand Bazaar in Istanbul is one of the oldest and largest covered markets Istanbul is not a destination to hurry through. Experience in the world. Bargain like a friend and true traveler and it slowly, like a fine cup of hot, black Turkish tea. you will find many original and unique delights.This is the place to begin your search for the perfect rug, the tea set, the talisman to ward off the evil-eye. Again, this is the
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budapest exploring a city of baths
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he River Danube bisects the dramatically beautiful capital of Hungary to create worlds within worlds. However, the Danube route that has been a “water highway of Europe” since ancient times isn’t the only water source that’s worth buzzing about in Budapest. A former Celtic settlement, Budapest bubbles over with activity and culture today with help from the more than 100 springs and boreholes that supply the famed baths of the city with their relaxing waters. In places, Budapest looks like a movie set depicting ancient times when people gathered for public baths in town squares. Attracting more than 12 million global visitors each year, Budapest is home to the world’s most extensive thermal water cave system. Budapest was formed by the unification of the three cities of Buda, Óbuda and Pest in 1873. Today, it is a vibrant center of culture and economics within Europe.
The Hungarian Parliament Building While seeing the center of government in any European city is always a thrill, visiting the Hungarian Parliament is especially thrilling because it’s the third-largest parliament building in the world. Modeled slightly after the British House of Parliament, the building stands on the banks of the Danube. The architecture pops to life even more if you come after dark when the lights have turned on over Hungarian Parliament. During the day, tours are available at an adjacent museum.
mer home of Hungarian kings, the castle now houses the Hungarian National Gallery and Budapest History Museum. Situated on a hill within the city’s fortified Castle Quarter, the Buda Castle links easily to both Clark Ádám Square and the Széchenyi Chain Bridge using the Castle Hill railway. The city’s massive, ethereal Chain Bridge is of note because it became the first permanent bridge spanning the Danube to link Buda and Pest when it was completed in 1849.
The Citadella
With its ornate neo-Renaissance dome reaching 300 feet, St. Stephen’s is a true architectural wonder, completed in 1905. If you visit near St. Stephen’s feast day on Aug. 20, the city is full of celebrations centered on the basilica. If you have a chance, book a ticket during a time when an organ concert is being held in the church for a true treat.
After covering so much of Budapest by foot, getting some perspective on what your feet have covered is always a treat at the Citadella. Situated at the summit of Budapest’s Gellert Hill, Citadella is a surveillance fortress that was constructed by the Hapsburgs in 1854. Today, it is a prime tourist spot among people looking for outstretched views of a gilded city sliced in two by aglistening river.
Buda Castle
Budapest Zoo and Botanical Garden
Stephen’s Basilica (Szent István Bazilika)
This13th-century castle was massively rebuilt after Established in 1866, Budapest’s zoo is one of the oldbeing mostly destroyed during World War II. The for- est in the world. Conveniently located in the city center, the zoo can be accessed on Line 1 of the Buda-
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pest Metro. Among the 1,000 different species of animals housed at the zoo are the white rhinoceros, giraffes and Hospital in the rock gazelles. Underneath Budapest’s historic Castle, just beyond a huge iron gate, is a secret medical complex that has survived a World War II, Soviet sieges, and a failed revolution against Danube River Cruises Many local cruise operators run both day and evening the Soviet empire. Today, the Sziklakorhaz (Hospital in the Danube River cruises. In many cases, tourists can enjoy Rocks) is a museum honoring the doctors and nurses who one-hour cruises that bring them on quick tours of major treated Hungarian casualties during these traumatic hisBudapest attractions on both sides of the river. A mix of torical events. busy shores and hilly terrain makes for excellent visibility of landmarks from the river. Getting Around Budapest
Choosing Where to Stay in Budapest
When deciding where to find a hotel in Budapest, the Castle District emerges as an excellent choice for anyone hoping to be near the city’s most important attractions. Besides offering the best views, this high-end neighborhood places you near landmarks like the Buda Castle and Matthias Church. While walking to other parts of the city from the Castle District can be challenging, you can use the Castle Hill Funicular train system to get around easily. Castle Hill isn’t the top spot for nightlife, even though it’s bustling during the day. Downtown (Belváros)/5th District Running along the “Pest” side of the Danube, 5th places you right near outstanding attractions like St. Stephen’s Basilica and the Chain Bridge. With its Parisian-like boulevards, this is also one of the best districts for shopping and dining. It is also home to the city’s Jewish Quarter.
While Budapest’s size and complexity make it seem intimidating at first, tourists can be comforted by the fact that the city has one of the most extensive and reliable public transportation systems among Europe’s capital cities. First, airport shuttles from Ferenc Liszt International Airport run every few minutes. The city’s public transportation system uses a series of buses, trolleys and trams to allow you to cross seamlessly between terrains consisting of hills, flat roadways and river banks. The Budapest Metro is continental Europe’s oldest underground railroad system. Additionally, taxis are abundant in the city. While walking parts of the city are fully manageable, the distance between attractions can be a little extreme for an all-walking vacation. If you’re up for it, the electric scooters that are seen everywhere in Budapest can be rented through the Lime app.
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EDINBURGH A quirky city just waiting to be explored.
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nown for its hilly landscape and tartan-draped history, Edinburgh is a lively city where history, culture, education, and the arts are as abundant as the green landscape found in the rest of the highlands and lowlands of Scotland. As Scotland’s capital city, Edinburgh is both the economic and governmental hub of the country. Both summer and winter are full of vibrant festivals within the city’s ancient squares. You can also take your pick between a pub visit or a traditional tea room any day of the week. A relatively small city, Edinburgh is straightforward to traverse by foot. When picking a hotel in Edinburgh, it’s helpful to know that the majority of the major attractions here are concentrated right near the city’s center. If your goal is to avoid as many buses as possible during your visit, look for hotels and rentals near Edinburgh’s Royal Mile. Edinburgh also has 15 tram stops that will take you to key points around the city. You can also access Edinburgh Airport using the tram system. Walking, biking, and taxi rides are also very viable transportation options.
The Royal Mile
The Royal Mile gets its name from the fact that it connects the Edinburgh Castle with the royal residence at Holyrood Palace. Every inch of this stretch of road is lined with historic buildings, beautiful shops, cobbled passageways, lively street performers, and lovely restaurants. Expect to find yourself back at this spot time and time again as you make your way through your itinerary. When the Edinburgh Festival Fringe arrives each August, this section of the city becomes home to the world’s largest arts festival for 25 unforgettable days! The jewel of the royal miles is the queen’s residence at the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Visitors who tour the halls of the palace can roam the residence where historical figures like Mary, Queen of Scots and Bonnie Prince Charlie lived. and can learn how the residence is used by the queen when carrying out royal duties in Scotland today. Terra Travelers || 18
Edinburgh Old Town
The Royal Mile cuts right through Edinburgh Old Town. This historic walking neighborhood showcases Edinburgh as it was. The oldest neighborhood in Edinburgh, Old Town takes you on a journey through narrow cobblestone streets that have existed since medieval times to browse pubs, wool shops, squares, and monuments. While you’re exploring this historic neighborhood, find your way to Grassmarket on Victoria Street. Originally a marketplace for buying and selling horses and cattle in the capital, Grassmarket now offers shops belonging to jewelers, quiltmakers and artisans. Old Town is also the gateway to Edinburgh Castle. According to archaeologists, Castle Rock has been the site of human occupation since at least the Iron Age. One of the oldest fortified structures in all of Europe, the casTle structure itself has played an
dating back to at least the reign of David I during the 12th century. Through the centuries, it has served as a royal residence, prison, military garrison, and fortress. The castle is home to the Honours of Scotland that hold the distinction of being the oldest royal jewels in all of Britain. Be sure to take an Old Town ghost tour, as Edinburgh has a reputation for being one of the most haunted cities in the world!
National Museum of Scotland
A world-class museum, the Museum of Scotland houses exhibits that put the treasures of the world on display.
important role in Scottish history, Many of the exhibits focus on Scottish antiquities like the Lunnasting stone, the St. Ninian’s Isle Treasure, the Whitecleuch Chain and the Hunterston Brooch. Entry to the museum is free.
Bridge. For decades after their completion in 1788, the vaults were used for everything from taverns to storage spaces for merchants. They also had a dark reputation for housing illegal whiskey distilleries, illegal gambling operations and refuges for body-snatching rings. During a guided tour, you’ll learn all about The Edinburgh Vaults Guided tours through the Ed- the dark history of this underinburgh Vaults bring visitors ground portion of Edinburgh. to the underground canals of the city. Dark and mysterious, Calton Hill the Edinburgh Vaults form a The best place to get panoramseries of chambers within the ic views of Edinburgh, Calton 19 arches of the city’s South Hill is an elevated neighbor-
hood that houses the buildings of the Scottish Government. It also houses the National Monument, the Nelson Monument, the Political Martyrs’ Monument and the Royal Observatory of Edinburgh. When visiting Calton Hill, it is customary to take the steep pedestrian pathway carved of volcanic rock known as Edinburgh’s Jacob’s Ladder to link from New Town back to Old Town.
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VIENNA Hop from the Hapsburgs to ringed roads in Vienna. Terra Travelers || 20
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he awe of Austria, Vienna is a large city with a greater-metropolitan population of 2.6 million. While Vienna is a very modern city, imperial palaces and cloud-piercing cathedrals betray its age. After just a few hours in Vienna, I learned that there is nothing more characteristic of Viennese culture than finding a lovely sidewalk table where you can perch to sip a strong espresso. Before you head to Vienna, you might want to rehearse how to order that espresso in German. While many people here do speak English, most of the signage is in German. Coming from the lips of the locals, you’ll hear a very distinct dialect known as Viennese German.
Ringstrasse contains some of the most important historical landmarks in the city. As you explore Vienna’s center by way of its famed ringed road, be sure to make your way through the University of Vienna, Opernring (the Vienna State Opera House), Hofburg Palace (president’s residence), City Hall, the Kunsthistorisches Museum, Parliament, the National Theater, the Ring Tower and the Rossauer Barracks. As you’re walking, (you will, I assure you be burning a multitude of calories), keep your eye out for bakery windows that display those signature strudels of Vienna. For breakfast, a hot apfelstrudel (apple strudel) or topfenstrudel (cheese strudel) can’t be beaten. Also delicious are the Viennese crêpes that Schönbrunn Palace cart merchants sell throughout the During a brief excursion through one city. of my favorite European cities, I began with a visit to Schönbrunn Palace. Stephen’s Cathedral A Cultural World Heritage Site, the The mother church of Vienna, St. palace is the most visited point of in- Stephen’s was completed in 1160 over terest in Austria. Located in Hietzing, a site believed to be an ancient Roman Schönbrunn (translation: “beautiful cemetery. Made of limestone walls spring”) was the summer home of the with rich mosaics peppered throughHabsburgs until the dynasty was dis- out, the cathedral is best known for solved. In the 1950s, it was opened as its colorfully tiled roof with diamond a tourist attraction. A Rococo-style es- patterns. Like many of the great catate, the palace contains 1,441 sweep- thedrals of Europe, St. Stephen’s was ing rooms. However, only 45 are open severely damaged during World War to the public. As you walk through II. Large sections of the church have the halls and gardens, you’ll see de- been rebuilt over the years. Additiontails spanning 300 years of Habsburg ally, several new extensions and towtastes and preferences. ers were added during reconstruction. When you walk inside, be sure to count Historic Center of Vienna all 18 altars within the cathedral! The Feeling the need to get a bit grounded interior’s focal point is a high altar following a tour of the larger-thanfeaturing a depiction of Saint Stephen life, otherworldly Hapsburg summer that was constructed during the 1640s palace, I found myself wanting to dive using marble pieces brought in from right into the city’s historic center. Styria and Tyrol. Luckily, I was within walking distance of the spot that I really consider to be Zoo Vienna (Tiergarten the heart of Vienna. With a quick walk, Schönbrunn) I was on Ringstrasse (Ring Road). I can’t pass through a city without visPaved over the site of an ancient for- iting a wildlife attraction. Luckily for tress, Ringstrasse is a circular boule- me, Vienna’s zoo is really one of the vard that went up when the city’s old best in the world. Founded in 1753, walls came down in the 19th century. Zoo Vienna is the oldest existing zoo
on the planet. Over the years, it has been awarded the title of the best zoo in Europe countless times. This is a world-class experience featuring more than 700 species of animals from around the world. Within the zoo’s campus, different habitats in a number of ecosystems are recreated to give you the impression that you really are venturing into jungles and prairies. In addition to pandas, the zoo is home to an elephant house, a polar bear world, a big cat house, a rhino house, a polar exhibit brimming with sea lions, a koala habitat, a reptile universe and much more. If you’re interested, you can book a feeding session with some of the animals.
Getting Around Vienna
Vienna offers reliable, accessible public transportation that makes planning your adventures very easy. By combining train and bus routes with your walking patterns, you’ll be able to cover a lot of ground. First, Vienna’s U-Bahn is a fast way to get from point to point by train. These trains run from 5 a.m. to 12 a.m. from Monday to Thursday. From Friday to Sunday, the trains run continuously. You can grab your tickets at machines located near where you’ll board at each station. If you’re looking for a more leisurely option, the Vienna Tram is an alternative that runs from just after 5 a.m. to just before 12 a.m. daily. There’s also a bus system. While Vienna’s buses are very reliable during the week, you’ll notice that service really tapers off during the weekends. Make sure you’re looking at the schedule for the day that you’ll be riding to confirm that a route is running to where you need to be. Vienna is also a pretty easy city to cover by bike. If you are renting a bike during your stay, you can carry it along on trains marked with a bike-friendly symbol.
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nown historically as the Salt Fortress of Bavaria, Salzburg is the perfect city if you’re longing for epic Austrian adventures that twist together fresh mountain views and metro attractions. In most of Salzburg, things look very much the same as they did when Mozart roamed through the streets of his childhood. Fans of “The Sound of Music” will recognize many of the filming locations of the movie when they tour landmarks like Frohnburg Palace, Leopoldskron Palace and the Mirabell Palace Gardens. Of course, you’ll also notice just how modern and tech-savvy the vibe here is as you roam ancient squares with a hot schnitzel in your hand. Don’t be intimidated by the grand history of Salzburg. With a population of just 156,872, the city can often feel like a small town. Let’s cover all the Salzburg essentials to plan an itinerary that will be music to your ears. Salzburger Altstadt Busy and bustling, Salzburger Altstadt is the city’s “old town” section. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Altstadt forms an outline of the city’s historic center on both the right and left banks of the Salzach River. I consider Altstadt the best place to stay in the city simply because you can walk to everything. While the old town is technically split in two by the river, charming footbridges make it possible to get around by foot using clever shortcuts. Within the old town’s boundaries, you’ll find the most important religious and political landmarks of Salzburg. In fact, this portion of the city is somewhat of an “abbey central.” It contains Salzburg Cathedral, Holy Trinity Church, Franciscan Church, and St. Peter’s Abbey. This area also offers something of a spiritual experience for music lovers because it houses Mozart’s birthplace at Getreidegasse. Located at 9 Getreidegasse, the canary-yellow
townhouse that was the Mozart family home when the composer was born in 1756 has become one of the most visited museums in Austria. If you’re going for a full Mozart tour, do include the Salzburg Cathedral. Built in 1614 on the ruins of an old Roman town, the cathedral eventually became the place where Mozart was baptized in 1756. You can even walk right up to the baptismal font where the future composer received his sacrament. The cathedral is famed for its façade of dark-grey stone broken up by ornamental touches. At the entrance, statues of Saint Matthew, Saint Mark, Saint Luke, and Saint John serve as reminders of the message of salvation. The cathedral is also home to some of the largest bells in Europe. Peter’s Abbey For a bit of serenity, St. Peter’s Abbey is a truly peaceful place that has housed monks for more than 1,000 years. Dating back to the 7th century, the monastery grounds hold tombs of saints, a library, archives with documents dating back to the 8th century, a music archive, and several art collections. Built into a mountain backdrop, this monastery truly does feel like a piece of heaven! Mirabell Palace Unable to visit a European city without touring a royal palace, I headed to Mirabell Palace to get lost in its endless halls and sprawling garden. This beautiful estate was built on the shore of
the Salzach River in 1606 Prince-Archbishop Wolf D highlight of the property Hall. On the exterior, the garten has continued to de manicured pathways and s being designed in 1687. Hohensalzbur Overlooking the rooftop high atop its natural thro berg, Hohensalzburg For fully preserved castle in a From the fortress, 360-deg are plentiful. Hohensalzbu with the purpose of prote bishops from attacks. For breaching the fortress is by invitation. Within the museums and chambers t mained untouched since Museum, you’ll find a complete history of the structure. You can also visit the Marionette Museum and Museum of the Rainer. Moving along, you’ll run into a number of preserved chambers that in-
SALZBURG Composing a magnificent itinerary in a city of Mozart and monasteries.
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6 at the insistence of Dietrich Raitenau. The is the famed Marble manicured Mirabellelight visitors with its stunning florals since
rg Fortress ps of Salzburg from one on the Festungsrtress is the largest all of Central Europe. gree views of the city urg was built in 1077 ecting the city’s archr those visiting today, an easy thing to do fortress are several that have actually re1501. In the Fortress
clude the Golden Chamber, the Golden Hall and the Prince’s Chamber. There’s also a gold-studded recreation of the night sky painted on the ceiling in a portion of the fortress. Getting Around Salzburg Salzburg is one of the most walkable cities in Europe. If you’re coming in through the Salzburg Hauptbahnhof station, you’re only about a 10-minute walk from many of the city’s main attractions. Salzburg also runs trams and buses that use an interchangeable ticket system. It’s €2.10 a ride for a single journey. You can also get a 24-hour unlimited ticket for €5. If you’re focused on getting around the old town at Aldstadt, use buses marked #1 and #4. If you’re in a hurry to get anywhere, a taxi is always your best bet because Salzburg designates an entire separate lane just for them! Biking is also popular enough here that most hotels rent out bikes for a few dollars per day. If you’re looking to get into the spirit of old Salzburg, you can also hop a ride on one of the fiaker carriages that are seen everywhere here.
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ZAGREB Explore Upper Town and Lower Town in Zagreb.
The Croatian capital of Zagreb is full of surprises. A former medieval fortress offering eagle-eye views over the Sava River, Zagreb opens up the Adriatic to Central Europe. Divided into 17 districts mixed between river-valley errain and foothills, it draws visitors from around the world to its stunning cathedrals, ancient landmarks, beauiful palaces, and open-air marketplaces. Historic Zagreb is cut cleanly between Upper Town and Lower Town. While one hosts the preserved medieval landscape that Europeans have passed through for generations, the other s devoted to shopping, dining, concerts, and nightlife.
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ce to stay while in r Town is the hisof the city. A highTown is the Dolac y market spot locatom Zagreb’s center combines primitive alls with a sheltered Farmers and merowns surrounding le into the marketorning the way they des. In addition to tions of fresh meats you’ll find flowers e. At Upper Town’s quare, stunning St. shows off its beautury architecture. Zagreb’s Kamenita te) near the church. ur of Upper Town mong the chestnut trossmayer Prome-
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be the “bustling” f Zagreb, Lower for its festivals and . The Croatian Nathe Zagreb BotanZrinski Square, the
Mimara Museum, and the University of Zagreb are all spread out over Lower Tower. A highlight of Lower Town, King Tomislav Square is the ultimate place to take in Zagreb’s atmosphere. Choose a small bakery with terrace seating to enjoy a cream cake with coffee. Known as Kremšnita in Croatia, layer cake made with vanilla cream and whipped cream is a staple at every bakery. As you sip and savor on the square, note that every building within view is listed as a heritage building. The fountains and colorful facades of the square really come to life on a sunny day.
Tkalčićeva
A favorite Zagreb neighborhood for many, Tkalčićeva spans the area from Ban Jelačić Square to the conclusion of Little Street. This is the city’s quintessential “European walking street.” It is lined with traditional Croatian restaurants and shops, special boutiques and inviting cafés. Of course, Ban Jelačić Square is an attraction worth giving time to while exploring Zagreb. Considered the central square of the city, Ban Jelačić is a car-free square lined with facades that cover several
centuries of architectural styles. A great place to begin a long day of seeing Zagreb on foot, it is considered to be the center of the city’s pedestrian zone.
Maksimir Park
Maksimir is a forest-like park in the middle of Zagreb. A pleasure to stroll through, the park is the natural habitat for many different wildlife species that prefer its meadows, lakes and creeks. Located on the eastern edge of the city’s central district, this charming escape in the middle of Zagreb can be accessed using the Bukovačka stop by way of ZET tram lines 4, 5, 7, 11 and 12. The Zagreb Zoo is located within Maksimir Park. Covering 17 acres, the zoo has been in operation since 1925. Noted for being the only zoo in the world to host Balkan snow voles, Zagreb Zoo is also home to snow leopards, red pandas, chimpanzees, Bactrian camels and North China leopards.
The Zagreb 80s Museum
A time capsule, the Zagreb 80s Museum feels slightly out of place among the classic architecture of the city. However, it is a very important attraction for anyone
seeking to understand the city as it stands today. Designed to look and feel like the apartment of a typical family during the 1980s, the museum gives an accurate portrayal of life in the former Yugoslavia. This is a fully interactive experience that allows you to use objects in the house. You can even play “dress up” in a closet stocked with clothing that was typical of the era.
Getting Around Zagreb
Zagreb’s public transportation system includes trams, buses, and cable cars to help you navigate the hilly, narrow passes of the city easily when you don’t feel like getting around by foot. All of the city’s trams are marked with numbers to help you know when to jump on. While the schedules are pretty constant, you should be warned that delays are common in the city. In Zagreb, the tram system and bus system share a ticket system. This makes planning a multimode trip around the city very easy. In total, there are 136 bus lines serving Zagreb. However, only 78 run through Zagreb proper. The remaining 56 will bring you to the city’s suburbs.
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TERRA
TRAVELERS Coming next Issue:
Mexico!
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