TERRA
TRAVELERS
Extraordinary Findings in the World of Travel
The Alternative Cruising Issue
Vol. 9 | Fall 2021
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Eco Cruising Voyage to Antarctica
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Wild at Heart Terra Travelers | | 1
Publisher’s Letter Why Travel Agents are Back in Vogue Here’s a fact seldom discussed when the topic of travel agents arises. When the airlines began cutting commissions to travel agents in the mid-90’s, the real problem wasn’t commissions. No, the airlines had another reason for wanting travel agents out of the picture. Travel agents told clients how to obtain the lowest fare. Call American Airlines directly and they don’t tell you Delta has a lower fare. But a travel agent would. Know what? They still do. Today, the preferred title is “travel advisor,” but the function is still the same: take care of the details with an expert’s eye. Because I’m obsessed with travel research, I believe in the value of a good travel agent. Well-trained travel specialists offer very valuable services and information almost impossible to uncover by yourself regardless of how diligently you search online. A good travel agent will save you time, save you money and provide insights into the logistics of your trip. Good travel agents keep their ear to the ground. They are researching travel every day and know which tour operators to use and which to avoid. They know the difference between a hotel in city center and a cheaper but far less convenient one on the outskirts of town. I am an experienced traveler. Yet, I personally always consult a travel agent. Don’t get me wrong, I also like to research on my own. My travel agent welcomes my research and questions. I am always 2 | | Terra Travelers
glad I asked for her assistance even if what she is doing is no more than agreeing with my choices. After all, she is researching travel every day. Shes good at what she does and that makes me better at what I want to do. That’s why I use a travel consultant. They are another research tool. Just like Google, only human and a lot more focused on my needs. Most people think travel agents sell travel. The fact is, however, a great travel agent doesn’t sell me anything, but instead helps me buy wisely. She researches along with me and we discuss the options. She steers me away from obstacles and looks into nooks and crannies that I might neglect. She helps to insure the quality of my trip. Time and again, my travel agents have saved me money, made good supplier choices on my behalf and helped me purchase wisely. How valuable is that? A key attribute of a great agent is their ability to empathize, to understand exactly what you want to achieve from your travels. Look for intelligence, for the ability to think beyond your own immediate needs and for a sense of organization. Finally, it is important to LIKE your travel agent. Find one with whom you resonate and can have a solid professional relationship. If you find all of that in one package, hang onto them. And tell your friends. They will thank you for it.
TERRA TRAVELERS
EXTRAORDINARY FINDINGS IN TRAVEL
PUBLISHER Richard B. Earls
EDITOR Elizabeth Cody
AUTHORS Steve Brass Judy Colbert Dave Monk e. dawson richards Jan Ross Travel Hippy Chef Dennis Susan Campbell Victoria Todd Richard B. Earls Amanda Williams
EDITORIAL & CREATIVE DESIGN Richard B. Earls
MARKETING EXECUTIVES Randi White
CIRCULATION & SUBSCRIPTION Travel Research Online
CUSTOMER SERVICE Erin von Scherrer
Terra Travelers seeks to inspire a community of likeminded individuals that respect the road, respect the people we visit, and those with whom we travel.
60 Second Geography:
ARUBA
Quite possibly one of Aruba’s best known features is the shopping scene. International brand name products can be found anywhere from 10%-35% less expensive than in the United States! With all the recently renovated malls and entertainment centers, those with the shop-tilyou-drop mentality will have a blast. • For the athletic traveler, there are roughly 20 miles of trails in the Arikok National Park awaiting exploration. • More of a sports person? Bring your clubs and your A-game, as the rugged terrain and desert winds, along with the Caribbean atmosphere, provide for some challenging rounds of golf. • As expected with any island, water sports are plentiful – swimming, wind and kite surfing, sailing, jet skiing, fishing and kayaking, to name a few, are commonplace adventures here.
• For the inquisitive traveler, museums and the Bushiribana Gold Mill, along with the Aruba Aloe Factory are waiting to be discovered, offering a fascinating look at the history of Aruba and its island lifestyles. • Don’t be fooled for a second by the tameness of the island during the day – at night, the excitement of its people can be heard all over. Happy hours are an everyday occurrence, as are the bountiful martini and karaoke bars. • Aruba is a melting pot: their food is no exception. Boasting international influence and world-renowned chefs, restaurants catering to any desire can easily be discovered. • Finally, transportation. Driving and taxis, which have flat rates, are the best way to get around, and getting from any point of the island to another is remarkably simple. Terra Travelers | | 3
02 Publisher’s Letter 08
Contents
05 Wild at Heart
Seas the Day
12 Niche Cruising
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The Perfect Girlfriends Getaway
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20 Voyage to Antarctica
Eco-Cruising
28 Cruising the Seine with CroisiEurope
32 6 Highlights from an Active & Discovery Cruise with Avalon Waterways
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Dad & Daughter in Dalmatia
Wild at Heart:
Cruising America’s Snake and Columbia River on American Song Dave Monk
Originally published in World of Cruising
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hey don’t call them rapids for nothing, especially when you’re skimming over them in a jet boat. Bursts of spray drench my face as I cling on at the back of the craft, its three 450-horsepower engines churning through the swirling waters of the Snake River. We are following the route of pioneers, traders, hunters and native American tribes across the northwestern USA – but at a speed, our predecessors can only have imagined. “This pre-cruise excursion isn’t all whiteknuckle maneuvers, however, and from time to time we slow down to observe an eagle, a herd of mountain goats or one of
historian Todd Weber, who uses wit, knowledge and his own collection of replica artifacts A day later we’re back on to entertain the ship’s 184 the Snake, though this time passengers. in the far more comfortable As the only two Britons on surroundings of American Song, this particular cruise, my wife the first of five modern riverboats Mandy and I are definitely in the being launched by American minority – but we are treated like Cruise Lines. This will be our visiting celebrities by the mainly home as we sail from Richland, older Americans on board, Washington State, to Portland, many of whom are loyal repeat Oregon, along the Snake and customers. Columbia Rivers. We’d preceded our cruise with We’re following the trail of a few days’ holiday in Seattle intrepid explorers Meriwether before flying to Lewiston, Idaho. Lewis and William Clark, who Usually this 11-day itinerary mapped the newly expanded begins from nearby Clarkston (a United States in the early 19th century. Their incredible journey glance at the map tells you how highly regarded these pioneers of nearly two-and-a-half years are) but on this occasion there is is vividly brought to life for a little local difficulty with a dam, us by on-board lecturer and the region’s astonishing natural landmarks.”
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Dave Monk Originally Published in World of Cruising which means we are bussed to the first stop, at Richland, to join the ship.
attention. There may no longer be swinging saloon doors at the entrance to the town’s Hamley “As soon as you arrive on Steakhouse, but the restaurant is the Snake River, you start still so authentically decorated to feel as if you’re in the that you half expect a cowboy Wild West, sailing past to barge in and start firing sixscrubland and towering shooters into the tin ceiling. brown cliffs with the odd That era is presented from a building dotted along the completely different point of top.” view at the nearby Tamastslikt On an excursion to the museum of native American small city of Pendleton, we history. Here we learn about the take a 90-minute underground subjugation and elimination tour through cellars where of many of the people who prospectors would gamble their originally inhabited the land, as money and meet pretty women at the influence of the US spread a price. The pavement outside has inexorably west. a ring to tether a horse, and there This story is reinforced are re-creations of the buttons back on board that evening that the good-time girls used to by performances from three throw down to get the miners’ 6 | | Terra Travelers
members of Nimiipuu tribe, who use songs, music and words to convey their pride in the past and to recount the horrors that were visited on their ancestors, as well as to paint a picture of the way they live now. Also in Pendleton we enjoy a tour of the famous local woollen mill. Here, blankets adorned with the vibrantly colored geometric designs beloved by native Americans have been made since the early 20th century. There is so much to do on this cruise, and everywhere American Song stops, there is the opportunity to join a complimentary excursion or a shuttle into the nearest town. Visiting curiously named The Dalles – another pint-sized city
– we take a short coach ride to the Cascade Cliffs Winery, which grows Italian grapes in the sheltered land between the river and the mountains. Over subsequent days there is also an excursion to view the impressive Multnomah Falls, and a spectacular train ride to view the summit of Mount Hood before we sail on to Portland, our final calling point. In Astoria, there’s a chance to visit Fort Clatsop, where Lewis and Clark spent the winter of 1805, and Camp Disappointment, where they tried (and failed) to prove that the USA’s recent land deal with the French should include this region as well as Louisiana. Finally, in Kalama, Washington, guests could take a 90-minute scenic ride to the Mount St Helens observatory and view the volcano that exploded with such devastating results in 1980. Taking a trip on American Song is quite different from a European river cruise. For a start, it’s very American, and everyone is encouraged to wear lanyards with their name on both sides, sandwiching their keycard. That makes recognition and discussion very easy, especially when people
spot that we’re from the ‘old country’ – as if our accents hadn’t already given us away. The ship has a four-story atrium, three main lounges, two self-service launderettes and a putting green. There is also a small gym, though no spa. Main meals are served in the dining room, with no set seating, but guests are asked to choose their lunch and dinner options in the morning, to make life easier for the kitchen and to cut down on food waste. “The chefs aim to use local food, sourced onshore in Oregon and Washington. It’s all delicious and comes in the expected huge portions – although, this being America, dinner is served between 5.30 and 7.30pm.”
which made its debut on the Mississippi last August. Two more sisters – American Jazz and American Melody – are to be launched this year. As we sail between colorful sunrises and sunsets, through giant locks and alongside snaking freight trains, blaring their horns into the distance, we are left with a new sense of wonder at the Wild West and the pioneers who made it their home. But of course, this admiration is mixed with sorrow and respect for the native tribes forced off their land. This was once the final frontier. On American Song, you still get a taste of adventure and exploration, while enjoying all the comforts of a very 21stcentury form of travel.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
One morning we have a ‘bagels Dave Monk and locks’ meeting – playing Former deputy editor of Metro, on the American word ‘lox’, for now Britain’s best-read daily brined salmon – as Todd Weber narrates us through some of the newspaper. Dave gave up the role eight dams we encounter on the in September 2016 to concentrate on his award-winning blog route. shipmonk.co.uk. Thousands American Song – which follow him on Facebook, Twitter, celebrates its first anniversary Instagram and LinkedIn for the while we’re on board – has a latest cruise news and reviews. sister ship, American Harmony,
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Seas the Day Ponant Cruises is a luxury French cruise line of small ships that’s been around for 26 years, offering spacious cabins, gourmet food, and an intimate look at the world from the sea. The French crew speaks French with almost all also speaking English and many speaking numerous other languages. Because they are relatively new to the United States market, about 60 percent of the passengers are European, most of the rest are from the States, and then there are a few from South America.
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Pre-pandemic, I came across Ponant’s Le Champlain almost by accident while looking for a peaceful cruise minus the hectic pace of a port a day. Le Champlain has 92 cabins meaning a max of 184 people, plus 114 crew members. The ship weighs in at less than ten gross tons which barely seems large enough to be called a ship (instead of a boat). There are a few intriguing architectural highlights, including a marina aft on deck three for Scuba, snorkeling, and other water activities and the Blue Eye lounge that had windows placed in the hull, underwater, so you can see dolphins and other aquatic beings swim by.
I’m “of an age” and I enjoy traveling solo (I’m an introvert/extrovert), but I tried to fail high school Spanish. I was looking at an eightday positioning cruise from Boston to Cancun in October, so no ports of call and still a potentially active hurricane month. Le Champlain shared a Boston dock with MSC’s Meraviglia and its afternoon shadow totally enveloped Le Champlain. Many differences are easy to spot. The number of decks on the MSC ship is overwhelming. The hordes of people being disgorged from bus after van after cab and ambling around, trying to determine where they’re supposed to go is mindboggling. Meanwhile, at the Ponant ship, I (and the other passengers) was met at my cab and led into the waiting area until boarding time. To combat my shyness, I tend to wear a scarf with the colors of the Maryland flag (red, gold, white, and
black). About half the time, someone will ask about it or recognize it from Maryland and a conversation starts that I don’t have to initiate. Yes, someone mentioned my scarf, someone with a French accent! His English is much better than my French! He talked about the places he’d visited in the United States and then it was time to board. Again, we were individually escorted into the reception area and then to our respective cabins. Of course, a French chef prepares the French food. First, I’m now addicted to French butter. Chef JeanPierre Neale says he uses imported French water, the French flour, and about 440 pounds of the aforementioned French butter EVERY week for bread, pastries, and, well, anything that requires those ingredients. It does make a difference.
“What’s surprising on a ship this size is how many decisions still have to be made. Do I want to sleep on the right side of the king size mattress by the sliding verandah doors or the left side, nearer the door? Do I want to make a whale keychain or have a massage? Do I want to try the caviar (Chef says he went through two two-kilo tins of the stuff in thirty minutes) with the blinis (made with the French flour, etc.) or the Iberico ham tasting. Do I want to take the French lessons or listen to the pianist in the lounge or explore the bridge which is open almost all the time. ::: sigh ::: Decisions, decisions, decisions.” There’s a daily newsletter delivered to each cabin (prepandemic) and the crew knows who receives the French version, the English version, and whatever other language is available.
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There were a few disappointments. First, Chef says he picked up 65 live lobsters in Boston and kept them in tanks in the bilge. Hmm. No, I didn’t visit them. How many times do you have a chance to see five dozen lobsters in one place? Am I limping because Chef pulled my leg? I guess I’ll never know. Also, because we didn’t have a port of call, we didn’t have a chance to use the marina. No surprise, I knew that when I signed on for the cruise. However, I was looking forward to seeing and hearing lots of underwater critters through the underwater windows in the Blue Eye lounge (with microphones to pick up noises within three miles or five kilometers of the ship). They 10 | | Terra Travelers
did congregate and show off once in port. Due to the constant barrage of French, I could understand a lot more by the end of the cruise, but I sure didn’t try to speak it beyond “oui,” “merci,” “bonjour,” and a few other basics that I already knew. I pride myself on being able to read restaurant French, Spanish, German, and Italian, so the menus weren’t a problem. Perhaps because of its size or because almost everyone has traveled extensively, friends are made almost instantly. Dining at all meals is open seating, so I would either join a table or sit alone when I was the first to a table and then I’d be joined
by other diners. Most of the other passengers had traveled extensively and conversations were inevitably Noel Cowardwitty. Months later, I still correspond with a couple of them.
About the Author: Judy Colbert
Judy Colbert is a writer/ photographer based in Maryland who specializes in travel, particularly about the mid-Atlantic area, cruising, and Amtrak. Her most recent books are Virginia Off the Beaten Path: Discover Your Fun (12th edition), 100 Things to Do in Baltimore Before You Die, and Peaceful Places Washington, DC (co-author).
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Niche Cruis ING Exploring the world from the bow of a ship
e. dawson richards
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South Pacific destinations, some visit the arctic extremes of the planet and still others cruise European waterways, rivers and fjords. Some niche cruises focus on luxury and some on ecology. The choice is yours. Niche cruises typically use ships that are smaller than the mass market boats operated by better known cruise lines. This gives the niche cruise lines a tremendous advantage over their larger counterparts.
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“The smaller ships can go where bigger ships cannot, seeking out smaller ports, narrow waterways, and more shallow waters. The smaller passenger count means the ships are more environmentally friendly, and can visit more ecologically sensitive areas.”
Small ship itineraries often focus on a destination or a theme. Many niche cruise Is it really possible that less is the traveling public. Yet these more? If you are talking about cruises offer an exciting, intimate operators employ experts in zoology, history, anthropology or small ship and niche cruising, adventure that simply cannot be the answer is a definitive “Yes”! matched by mass market cruises. biology to give informal lectures and to act as guides. Whether you want to cruise Many of the small ship lines The words most often on a tall-masted ship, sail the carry fewer than 800 passengers, associated with niche cruises Amazon, visit small, secluded some as few as 100 or even less. islands or see Antarctica up close The “niche” part of niche cruising are words like “adventurous”, “intimate”, “personal” and and personal, niche cruising is all about destinations and “rewarding”. All types of people offers a fantastic alternative to themes. Itineraries are geared travel on niche cruises, but in mega-liner cruise ships. Because to travelers looking for a more most niche cruise lines are adventurous, off-the-beaten track general the crowds are quieter and less rowdy than on large, operated by smaller companies, type of travel. Some have sails, mass market cruise experiences. their itineraries and even their some steam engines, and some The typical niche cruising existence is often not known to are barges. Some visit exotic Terra Travelers | | 13
enthusiast loves adventure and a sense of discovery. They view their travels as an opportunity to explore and learn. They are travelers, not tourists, and take an active, engaged participation in the voyage. The age range varies widely with the theme and personality of the itinerary. The traveler considering a niche cruise typically decides first on a destination to visit and then researches the niche cruise lines servicing the chosen destination. Niche cruises are literally world-wide in their scope and schedules. Some have set itineraries, and others deviate not only from trip to trip, but during the course of a single trip. The smaller size of the vessels gives the crew the option to respond quickly to changing conditions, special opportunities and events and to make unscheduled port calls. The rivers and fjords of the world are some of the most sought after small cruise adventures. Niche-river cruises
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give participants a close-up view of the villages and cities lining the banks of the world’s great rivers. In Europe, cruises on the river waterways of Russia, Germany and France capture the history, the castles, and the day-to-day lives of the inhabitants. The fjords of Norway ease through towering green mountains and the deep Scandinavian waters. “Small ships can slip into the wilds of the Amazon and the jungle rivers of South America like the Orinoco. American history comes to life on the Mississippi in authentic steamboats, while on the East Cost of North America, small ships visit ports from the Florida Keys, to the antebellum ports of Charleston, South Carolina to the fishing villages of Nova Scotia and Greenland.” On the other side of the world, niche cruise operators and English speaking guides lead
travelers down the endangered Yangtze River in China. Some of the most remote and ecologically fascinating destinations on the planet are open to the niche cruising vessels. Travel to the northern arctic regions of Greenland, Iceland and Alaska are available, typically accompanied by naturalists and trained scholars who provide both formal and informal talks and lectures. The southern boundaries of Argentina and Antarctica are favored destinations for the small cruise industry. Participants go ashore to the stark white and rocky landscapes and colonies of penguins that live in a world that few people ever get to experience. A lucky few each year get to visit the Galapagos Islands off of Ecuador to see the same exotic wildlife that inspired Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution. In the South Pacific, small tropical islands and the wonders of New Zealand are on many niche cruise itineraries.
One of the best aspects of a niche cruise is that you unpack only once. The destination “comes to you” as you experience the comforts of the ship. The small ship experience offers a wide variety of amenities. Many ships have a full array of services and entertainment options such as casinos and on-board nightclubs. As in all cruising, dining is taken seriously and the cuisine aboard is almost universally applauded by travelers and travel magazines. Most programs are all-inclusive, meaning most of your expenditures like meals, entertainment and planned sightseeing excursions are included in the cost of your trip. Work with your travel consultant to determine exactly what is,
or is not, included in the cost of various packages as you research your options. The atmosphere aboard a niche cruise vessel tends to be relaxed and informal. The more intimate setting lends itself to striking up conversations with other passengers and crew. The vessels tend to have very distinct personalities reflected in the themes chosen for the itineraries, the destinations, the decor and meal selections. As you research your options, be sure to cover your preferences with your travel consultant to ensure that your experience meets your expectations. This is particularly important with your choice of cabin. Some ships have all “outside staterooms” while others have both interior and exterior
cabins. On some ships verandas and suites are available. An experienced travel consultant can best explain the type of cabin options available to you and can work with the cruise line to obtain suitable accommodations. “This year, do something special for yourself and seek out a cruise unlike any you might have imagined and try a niche cruise!”
ABOUT THE AUTHOR: e. dawson richards
e. dawson richards is an often quoted travel and fiction writer living in Tallahassee, Florida and always looking for his next airline ticket and gig. Terra Travelers | | 15
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WHY A CARIBBEAN CRUISE IS THE PERFECT GIRLFRIENDS GETAWAY JAN ROSS I lolled back in my pool side lounge chair, opened my eyes, glanced out at the navy blue strip of ocean I could view through the railing slipping silently past as we cruised to our next gorgeous Caribbean port, and lazily mulled over whether to apply more sunscreen, move into the shade, or possibly just go visit the soft serve ice cream dispenser.
will be deciding which of the delicious and marvelously prepared meals to choose and then having to decide which of the rich and luscious desserts to order. Every person at the table can choose a different entrée and if, for some reason, it’s not the perfect choice, just send it back and choose something else. In fact, if you want to order more than one entrée, do it. This is the perfect time to try something you have always wanted but Then I checked out what my girlfriends have been hesitant for some reason. On a were doing. One was deeply involved in recent Caribbean cruise with girlfriends, we reading a novel on her Kindle, another was may have become just a trifle addicted to swimming laps in the pool, two were having the Melting Chocolate Cake on our Carnival an animated conversation about what to ship. Melting Chocolate Cake every single wear to dinner and one, I noted jealously, night? Yes, please. had already been to the soft serve ice cream dispenser and was happily spooning up The flip side of eating like a hedonistic chocolate ice cream. heathen at mealtime (my personal choice) is that everyone in your group will also Our relaxing interlude by the pool provides have a choice to eat healthy at each meal. a great example of why a Caribbean cruise Ironically, a cruise is the perfect place to lose is the perfect place for a group of friends weight. Remember how you always say that to have a getaway. Everyone was blissfully celebrities only lose weight because they happy and everyone was doing something have someone cook for them, prepare fresh completely different. In a while, we would salads and fruit and offer a dizzying array of bestir ourselves to go get ready for dinner healthy choices? That is precisely what you and a show which we would enjoy together, can experience on a cruise. but for now we were all able to do just what we wanted. And be very happy doing it – Exercising vs. Getting Pampered. whatever “it” might be. Just what would (or possibly both) that perfect something be on a girlfriends Those individuals in your group who are getaway cruise? eating the healthy food mentioned above are going to want to immediately find the Eating decadent and fabulous fitness area on the ship, where they will find food vs. Eating light, healthy food exercise equipment, a variety of classes and Your only quandary at mealtime on a cruise helpful ship staff who can make suggestions Terra Travelers | | 17
about working out. Those of us who are in the hedonistic group will want to find the spa, which is usually located right near the fitness area. You can arrange pretty much any sort of pampering you desire, from head to toe; if you are feeling particularly healthy, you can even walk on a treadmill before or after that massage. And those of you who don’t want to work out or get a massage? A nap is always the perfect choice on a cruise.
Shopaholics vs. Non-Shoppers
Shopping. Need I say more? The Caribbean is the perfect place for shopping because of the duty-free items you can purchase. “Duty” is the tax or fee placed on goods by local governments, but in the Caribbean they are not charged duty so you can get some great prices. Watches, perfumes, jewelry and designer purses are all great choices. Those of us in the shopping mode on my last girlfriends getaway in St. Thomas made quite a haul, with one friend buying a Louis Vuitton purse for much less than she had priced them in the U.S. Those in the group who were not interested in shopping – yes, there were some – either stayed onboard or chose other activities.
my room. Not a gambler, I preferred to just relax, read, work on my iPad or simply go to bed early. My roommate would slip in quietly in the wee hours and ease into bed without waking me. We spent plenty of time together but enjoyed our time apart. And we had plenty to talk about at dinner!
Wild pool parties vs. Lying quietly in the sun for hours
Every ship I have been on has figured out that not everyone is thrilled with hairy chest contests, blasting music and other adults consuming mass quantities of adult beverages as they relax on the pool deck, and thus they provide a quiet, alternative pool. Everyone in our group was very happy with the focus of the day being reading a magazine in a lounge chair but, if they had wanted to party it up, that was always an option.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Jan Ross
For twenty years, I worked as a librarian in an elementary school but finally decided Geeks vs. Non-Geeks to get serious about travel writing and I have been on several cruise lines recently devote all my time to it. Now, I travel the and they have all quietly and efficiently world and write all about it. I can’t imagine stepped into the age of wifi, even though a more fabulous or fulfilling job. I write you have to keep in mind that it is not a regular travel column for two regional, cheap to stay connected. Whenever I Central Kentucky magazines and contribute needed to access the Internet, I turned on regularly to other magazines and online my iPad, lolled on my bed in the stateroom travel sites, such as The SavvyGal, A Luxury and surfed away. I was the only one in the Travel Blog and The Vacation Gals. I’m an group with the wifi fixation, although my avid reader and stay active with Yoga, Pilates roommate did use her iPad to read books. and Zumba classes. My favorite place in the Everyone else just smiled at the geek in their whole world is a beach - any beach. I have midst, although their smiles did slip a little been married for 34 years and my husband when I got preferential treatment because I is my favorite travel companion. I also rely was blogging daily about our cruise. on him for his excellent photography skills. We have two grown children and the best Hitting the Casino vs. Hitting the grandson in the world. Slowly but surely, we are visiting all the places we have dreamed Bed about. Hopefully, the next one will be the Most of my group spent a great deal of time one you want to read about! in the casino. I spent a great deal of time in 18 | | Terra Travelers
With a growing demand for special-interest cruises, American Cruise Lines is offering a variety of theme cruise options so that guests indulge their passions and customize their travel according to their interests. American offers a wide variety of cruises celebrating the music, history, art, cuisine, and natural beauty of the regions They cruise. Seasonal holiday sailings are also available along the most popular itineraries across the country. Start planning your next cruise vacation! Give our agency a call! Terra Travelers | | 19
VOYAGE TO ANTARCTICA
Exploring the End of the World “Out of whose womb came the ice? And the hoary frost of Heaven, who hath gathered it? The waters are hid as with a stone, and the face of the deep is frozen.” - Job 38:29 It is a land with little soil, where 96% of its mass is covered in ice, with no indigenous people, no indigenous government. No economic activity exists, except for that in small isolated encampments of scientists and from the incursion of tourism to the island continent. Antarctica is a land of many superlatives. It is the driest place on earth, it is the coldest. Its land mass forms the largest desert on the planet. Its average precipitation is the lowest anywhere, and its mean elevation the highest of any other continent. It is the southernmost continent, its 14 million square miles almost entirely contained within the Antarctic circle, 620 miles south of the coast of South America. It is the windiest place on earth, the most remote. It has no time zone, since all time zones converge in its interior. There are no non-indigenous animals - no dogs, cats or other pets - as a matter of treaty. Over the continent, an atmospheric anomaly - a giant hole in the Earth’s ozone layer.
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Travel Hippy
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The name Antarctica is derived from the Greek word antarktikos meaning “opposite to the Arctic.”
and Europe. The Transantarctic Mountains split the continent in half. The ice pack averages a thickness of over one mile. Nearly 85% of the “In 1959, a group of world’s ice and 75% of the world’s twelve countries devised fresh water is frozen here - if it were the Antarctic Treaty - that to melt, ocean levels would rise document, now signed by approximately 200 feet; the Antarctic forty-five countries, prohibits Peninsula has experienced an activities of a military nature accelerated warming over the past 50 or any commercial mining years of almost 5 degrees Fahrenheit, operations.” causing icepack and glacier melt and Seven nations claim territories the appearance of plant life where ( UK, Norway, Chile, France, none was previously recorded. Every Australia, Argentina and New visit to the continent will reflect its Zealand) and two others, (the United changing environment. States and Russia) have reserved the At one time, Antarctica was much right to do so. The Antarctic treaty further north. Fossils of trees, plant neither recognizes nor contests life and dinosaurs have been found, those claims. Today, more than more and large deposits of low-grade coal than 4,500 scientists work there are present. Additionally, scientists conducting research not possible have discovered more meteorites anywhere else. The population tends in concentration there than in any to be seasonal, increasing to over location in the world, many of which 33,000 in its summer. In 2006, more originated on Mars and have given than 28,000 tourists visited, carried tantalizing hints of life elsewhere in there by the approximately 25 ships the solar system. that have regular routes through the Most visits from travelers occur region. during the Antarctic summer from Antarctica is the fifth largest November to March, when there continent, larger than both Australia is typically 20 or more hours of
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sunlight each day. Sunglasses, hats and sunscreen are a must as more solar radiation hits the earth here than anywhere else - due to both the length of the day and the invisible, infamous hole in the ozone layer. During the summer, the coastal zone ice melts, making incursion by icehardened tourist vessels possible. The scenery is comprised of every shade of purple, blue, white and golden images and reflections against the water, which is filled with enormous icebergs. Winter visits by tourist ships are nearly impossible due to the shifting ice flows that can encapsulate a ship very quickly, stranding it in the pack ice that extends for more than 600 miles around the continent in the near total dark of the southern winter. “Antarctica is far from the lifeless void many perceive it to be. Summer is the mating season for penguins and the many species of seabirds. Fur seals and elephant seals breed here, and more than 200 species of lichens grow.”
The long days create spectacular
lighting conditions for photography as the penguin chicks begin to hatch and the rookeries become a maddening cacophony of noise. As late summer approaches humpback, orca and minke whale are a common site. Antarctic expeditions offer some of the most unique and esteemed photography and wildlife viewing opportunities. Most leisure expeditions to Antarctica originate in Ushuaia in Argentina or other South American ports in the Western hemisphere and either Hobart or Christchurch in the Eastern Hemisphere. Interestingly, visiting requires no visas or other travel documents beyond the trip’s point of origin. It does, however require an eagerness for adventure, time (most journeys are fifteen days or more) and a budget within a wide per-person range of $6,000 to $50,000, depending on the itinerary, tour company and ship accommodations. Ships that visit range in size from small 20 person vessels to larger 900+ passenger cruise ships. Companies that bring tourists are almost uniformly conscientious of
the ecological systems and maintain a rigorous respect for the environment. Visitors are inevitably accompanied by experienced naturalists that watch over both travelers and wildlife, ensuring that each keeps its appropriate distance from the other. Many such tour operators belong to an organization known as the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (IAATO) which voluntarily restricts the number of persons who may land at any one time. “Inflatable boats known as Zodiacs provide much of the transportation for sightseeing as they shuttle from the ships, filled with travelers. Trips out in a Zodiac can be invigorating, rigorous and on most ships, completely optional for passengers.”
A few ships have on-board helicopters, allowing for visits to the interior. Biologists, ornithologists and experts in oceanography accompany many, if not all of the trips to enlighten and engage the passengers. Itineraries are well planned - and
subject to change. Glaciers calving into the water, animal sightings, moving ice-flows, wind and water all conspire to keep everyone flexible and excited. Because of the small number of tours operating in Antarctica, the short length of the tourist season, and the capacity limitations of the IAATO, it is best for travelers to plan well in advance of their visit, as available space goes quickly. Working with an established tour operator and a solid travel consultant on your Antarctic adventure ensures the trip of a lifetime and an experience reserved for the lucky few.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Travel Hippy Travel Hippy is a slightly road worn, cranky individual setting out to spend all of his children’s inheritance on travel. He is especially fond of the music, pubs and peo4ple of Northern Europe and Ireland, though he’s been spotted in Peru and Thailand as well.
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eco cruis ing Richard B. Earls
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s
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he popular image of cruising is a modern, mass market ship filled with literally thousands of people freighted from one familiar portof-call to the next - not so ecocruising. As the name implies, eco-cruising is all about the exploration of nature and the environment from the vantage point of the Earth’s oceans, seas and rivers. The expanding appeal of environmental tourism in general and eco-cruising in particular is evident in the great number of options a traveler now has to commune with the natural world from the bow of a ship. Eco-cruising is characterized by an emphasis on visiting ecologically significant destinations with an eye to an educational experience. For the traveler looking to enhance their travels with something different from the ordinary, eco-cruising offers an alternative to a “7-day Western Caribbean” itinerary. If the idea of ecologically based cruising sounds good to you, speak with your travel consultant, who can hook you up with just the right opportunity for you to view nature as a seagoing traveler. Instead of Vegas-style entertainment, eco-cruise companies generally staff their vessels with one or more onboard experts in the environment: a naturalist, zoologist, or biologist acting as a tour guide, instructor and lecturer during the trip - some cruise operators employ more than a dozen such experts per voyage. The smaller size of the vessels and their passenger count (often fewer than 200) means that travelers have greater access not
only to any on-board experts but to the crew in general. “A smaller vessel also allows the ship to respond quickly to opportunity and circumstance. Wildlife sightings, events at ports of call or even the whim of the captain or on-board naturalist can trigger a complete change in itinerary.” Most ships used by eco-cruise companies fall into the category of “small ship”. These boats have very shallow drafts (the depth of the boat’s keel) and can enter areas that larger ships could never contemplate. In general, ships carrying fewer than 800 passengers fall into the small ship category, but most ecotourism vessels carry fewer than 100 passengers. The on--board ambiance is relaxed, casual and friendly. The passengers range in all ages, and a respect for the theme of the voyage is tangible. Overall, the travelers will be an active bunch, looking for every possible opportunity to physically engage in the trip. Accommodations onboard these ships vary, but because of the smaller passenger count, cabin size compares favorably to mass-market ships - typically between 100 and 150 square feet. Some cabins will have twin beds and some double with private baths. Some ships also offer a small number of more spacious suites. The out-ofdoors emphasis of the itinerary requires participants to have excellent viewing opportunities, so many ships have all “outside” cabin facilities with large picture windows.
Meals are typically one of the highlights of cruising, and eco-cruises, in general, have carried on this tradition. Seating is usually open style and meals may be a buffet or served seated. Special meal requests often can be considered, but be sure to make your cruise operator aware early on of any special accommodations you might require, such as vegetarian or vegan meals. While meals are typically taken in a dedicated dining room, occasionally they are served on the decks to allow 360 degree viewing of the scenery while dining. Most expedition vessels carry smaller boats on board for exploring the locales they visit. Zodiac rafts and kayaks are common ways of viewing wildlife and glaciers up-close and personal. Launched from divots or a landing platform, these small auxiliary craft allow travelers to slip into even more remote pockets of the local landscape. Typical activities involve hiking, kayaking, scuba, snorkeling, wildlife sightings and lectures. The eco-cruise industry provides itineraries in every possible destination. Antarctica is one of the prime destinations for eco-cruise companies. Far from being a lifeless desert of snow and ice, Antarctica has abundant sea life and opportunities for exploration. Itineraries are often photography tours of southern Argentina, the Falklands and the adjacent islands, as well as the continent itself. Steeple Jason Island in the Falklands is the world’s largest albatross nesting area, and visitors to this part of the world are treated to large penguin rookeries, giant elephant Terra Travelers | | 25
seals, fur seals and pods of orcas careening in and out of the icy channels. The Galapagos Islands are the home to the species that gave Charles Darwin much of his inspiration for the theory of evolution. Many animals here remain largely unafraid of man. The great diversity of the bird species is truly amazing: flightless cormorants, Galapagos Penguins (on the equator!), Galapagos hawks, finches and blue-footed boobies. Seals and sea lions, iguanas and giant tortoises abound. Travelers who want to snorkel or scuba will see marine iguanas, manta rays, hammerhead and white tipped sharks, sea turtles and a great variety of other pelagic species. A cruise down the Amazon is perhaps one of the most exotic eco-cruise itineraries. “The rainforests of the Amazon are home to the world’s broadest biodiversity. On either side of the river, the shores are thick with dense rainforest canopy. Pink river dolphins and colorful birds are common sights.”
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The otherworldly Amazonian sloths meander in the tops of the trees and toucans and howler monkeys provide a daily serenade of sound. Many excursions involve meeting the local population and allow travelers to learn more about the river culture and how modernity is affecting their lives. The trips often foray into small tributaries, channels and passageways as the naturalists on board guide passengers through waters churning with life. Some of the most accessible of the eco-cruise itineraries go to Alaska. The combination of scenery and wildlife create a high demand for Alaskan eco-cruises. “Whales, both orca and humpback, eagles, salmon, seals, walrus, polar and grizzly bear appear against a scenery of high mountains and calving glaciers.”
far from the reaches of the mass cruise line market. The Sea of Cortez, where the Gulf of California and the Pacific Ocean meet, is a fantastically rich feeding ground for aquatic life of every variety. Especially important to travelers are the California gray whales that calve here. But note that over 35 species of whale and dolphin make their home or transit through the Sea of Cortez. Travelers make frequent sightings of whale sharks and giant Pacific manta rays. Large pelagic fish of almost every variety are found in these waters, along with the spectacular coast line and reefs that make diving and snorkeling popular activities. Inflatable excursion craft frequently ferry Zodiac rafts travelers to uninhabited islands launched from the to dive and explore. So important small ships allow is this vitally sensitive area that travelers to get on July 14, 2005, UNESCO within a hundred registered the region as a World yards of newly Heritage Site. formed icebergs During your search for as they fall from an eco-cruise tour operator, glaciers overlooking consider the reputation of the the sea. Naturalists eco-cruise line and its history of who accompany working with travelers. It is an these voyages unfortunate fact that too many know the best hotels, resorts and others in the possible locations travel industry bill themselves as for wildlife viewing, eco-friendly without a great deal
of substantiation. The lack of globally recognized standards for being ecologically sound makes the process of selecting a tour operator a bit more difficult. Many countries have enacted their own local standards for hospitality industry participants, as has the World Travel and Tourism Council. In addition, the manner in which your cruise operator interacts with the local cultures and environment will play a role in how you ultimately remember and relate to your voyage. To the extent that your eco-cruise line seeks actively to minimize the impact of its activities on the local environment, the better for all concerned. It is entirely appropriate to ask a cruise ship operator about its environmental philosophy and whether it has published its standards. You will also want to inquire as to the training and expertise of staff members who will be accompanying you on your trip. The end result should be a solid environmental and cultural travel experience. You will want to determine
that not only the character of the cruise line, but also of your fellow participants, will be a compatible fit. Ask about the passenger demographic and age range. Inquire about the number of passengers on a typical voyage and the ship’s capacity. Make sure that you will be able to participate fully given any physical limitations you may have by informing your cruise operator early on of access issues for you or your traveling companions. If traveling with children, make sure that the policies of the cruise company accommodate their age and maturity level. Your cruise line will provide to you a list of recommended clothing and gear. As always, pack as lightly as possible, and remember to take along the essentials for recording your voyage on film or in a diary. Binoculars, sunglasses and sunscreen are some important items often left behind. Ask a doctor about any recommended medical treatments or vaccinations for your planned destinations. Ask your travel
consultant about travel insurance to cover unexpected cancellation and medical events or trip interruption due to sickness. Finally, make sure that your travel documentation is appropriate and in order for your chosen destination. “Eco-cruising presents a real opportunity for personal excitement and growth. The options are many, affordable and accessible -- why wait?”
ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Richard B. Earls Richard Earls has spent the last 30 years in the travel industry as an agency owner, a technologist, a publisher and a writer. The publishing credits to Richard’s resume are many, including Weissmann Travel Reports, STAR Service, Intelliguide, BTP24, Voyager Travel Guides and Travel Research Online. He is currently self-unemployed.
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Cruising the Seine with CroisiEurope Chef Dennis
If you’ve never traveled on a Luxury Barge, you don’t know what your missing. Cruising the Seine on a 20 passenger ship will give you a whole new perspective on travel. What could be better than starting a cruise in Paris…sigh. The city of lights was the first European destination we ever traveled to and it will always hold a special place in our hearts. Seeing Paris from the deck of our CroisiEurope ship, the Deborah, was definitely a wonderful experience.
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This view never gets old, and seeing the Eiffel Tower from the deck of our ship was a magical experience. Our friends at France Cruises arranged this delightful cruise and I couldn’t thank them enough for the opportunity to see France from the Seine River. This truly was a relaxing way to travel! And when you’re in France on a French Cruise Line you can expect amazing French cuisine, and our chef didn’t disappoint. This duck breast was exceptional and the sauce to die for! “The chef created masterful dishes some of which he prepared in the dining room, like his Classic Coulibiac of Salmon.” This tender filet of salmon with rice wrapped in puff pastry and served with a dill sauce was amazing! Not only did we enjoy amazing dinners but lunches were just as delicious. We enjoyed a variety of salads and cheese plates. At dinner, we were served artfully crafted appetizers that were every bit as delicious as they were beautiful. But the entrees were the stars of the daily offerings. And of course, there were desserts..sigh. From classic creme brulee to poached pears, we enjoyed perfectly prepared French desserts. We were cruising the Seine and life was good. Traveling on a barge or river ship gives you opportunities to see an area that you wouldn’t have access to on a large cruise ship. Since we were on a barge we could pretty much dock anywhere and that brought us into small towns and villages on the river. The village of Barbizon on the edge 30 | | Terra Travelers
of the Fontainebleau forest owes its fame to the 19th-century landscape painters Théodore Rousseau, JeanBaptiste Corot, Charles-Francois Daubigny and Jean-François Millet. Their artistic movement, the Barbizon School (1830 to 1875), was considered a precursor of Impressionism. One of our stops was The Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte located in Maincy, France about 55 km southeast of Paris. Built between 1658 to 1661 for Nicolas Fouquet, Marquis de Belle Île, Viscount of Melun and Vaux, the superintendent of finances for Louis XIV aka The Sun King. When the king saw the opulence of the chateau and gardens, the King began to wonder where Fouquet got the funds to build the palace. Things didn’t go well for Fouquet after that. And life on the Canal du Loing is easy and very relaxing. It’s hard to stress when you have views like this. And when you come upon a small town on the weekend during the summer months, everyone heads to the canal for a picnic or refreshing swim. The town of Moret sur Loing was a wonderful look into French country life. We even took a bike ride down to the town along the canal bank in the town of Moret sur Loing, I could have stayed there all day! The foldable bikes onboard the Deborah were easy to use and a great way to see more of the area. We loved the folding bikes so much we got two for our US travels and around where we live in Florida. Small town life in France is a different way of life and much better than the normal tourist experience. Did I mention we ate out on the
back deck a few of the nights we cruised? In fact, the Chef grilled one night on the back deck. That was a pretty awesome experience on a cruise. “And every afternoon we enjoyed a delightful cocktail hour. I could get used to living like this!” So when its time to plan your vacation, think of taking a Luxury Barge Cruise, I promise you’ll enjoy a relaxing, delicious cruise through France or one of their other destinations. Learn more about CroisiEurope Cruises. My friends at France Cruises can help you make your travel plans with CroisiEurope and other cruise companies in France. You could even celebrate our birthday onboard like one of our new Swiss friends. And most small cruise lines allow you to charter the entire ship (6-10 cabins), wouldn’t that be an amazing experience for family and friends?
ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Chef Dennis Chef Dennis is a semi-retired Chef, writer/blogger, photographer, recipe developer and creator of A Culinary Journey with Chef Dennis aka Ask Chef Dennis®. Chef Dennis worked professionally in White Table Cloth Restaurants for 40 years and has been developing easy to make, restaurant-style recipes since 2009. The second phase of his reinvention from chef to blogger has earned him a place at the Worlds Dinner Table. recipes and travel adventures.
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6 HIGHLIGHTS From an Active & Discovery Cruise with Avalon Waterways
Amanda Williams I’m not new to the world of river cruising. I fell in love with the style of travel back in 2015, and have been on four river cruises throughout Europe since then. I’m a fan of river cruising for a few reasons: 1. You can get an overview of a region in a short amount of time. 2. You visit places you might not otherwise have traveled to. 3. All the logistical details are handled for you. 4. You only have to unpack once! So when I was invited to try out a new style of river cruise this summer with Avalon Waterways, I didn’t have to be asked twice. Avalon Waterways offers all the river cruises you’d expect to find in Europe: tulip cruises, Christmas market cruises, wine-focused cruises, etc. But you’ll also find some not-so-expected cruise itineraries and styles offered by Avalon, including the “Active & Discovery” cruise. Avalon’s Active & Discovery cruises are exactly what they’re marketed: A way to be more active on your river cruise while delving deeper into local cultures. These river cruises come with a wide variety of excursion options to choose from that are far from your “average” cruise tours. I sailed from Budapest, Hungary to Linz, Austria, and basically tried to do everything!
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1. SO. MANY. OPTIONS.
I think what wowed me the most on this “Active & Discovery on the Danube” itinerary was the sheer number of included excursions to choose from each day. Most river cruise lines include one or two tour options in each port, but with Avalon there were usually at least three to choose from – and sometimes more!
2. ACTIVE EXCURSIONS
The “active” part of this itinerary was no joke. There were four biking tours, two hiking tours, two canoeing tours, and even a running tour offered over the course of the week, along with several walking tours in different cities.
Cycling in the Wachau Valley My favorite active excursion was This freedom of choice sometimes a 19-kilometer guided bike tour made it tough to decide what I along the Danube Bike Path in wanted to do on any given day, Austria’s Wachau Valley. We but ultimately is a great problem rode past vineyards and quaint to have. If you’re traveling with Austrian villages along a paved friends or kids who have different bike path, stopping frequently to interests, you’re pretty much see churches or learn about wine guaranteed to find something to production. We even had half an suit everyone. hour to wander around the town of Dürnstein, which made this
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excursions extra memorable. And the best part? All of these active excursions were included – there were no extra fees, even for the bike tours!
3. IMMERSIVE CULTURAL TOURS
The other unique aspect of this cruise was the variety of “Discovery” tours. Avalon goes beyond the classic “highlights” tour, offering instead all sorts of interesting excursions that delve deeper into local culture. Some included excursions included things like: • Getting VIP access to art museums, often before they opened to the public • A neighborhood walking tour
• • • • • •
that ending in a bread-baking class Going to an evening concert in Vienna The chance to meet an Austrian Count in his castle A schnitzel and strudel cooking class A tour of the Mauthausen Concentration Camp Beer tasting at Austria’s only Trappist Monastery A guided pub crawl with locals in Linz
Some of my favorite excursions (most of which were “Discovery” tours) included: Retro tour in Budapest This was an Optional tour on this cruise (meaning there was an
extra fee associated with it), but it was one of my absolute favorites. A group of us met at our Budapest hotel and were soon whisked away in retro Trabant cars – the tiny East German cars that became ubiquitous throughout the Soviet Union.
pipes that composer and organist Anton Bruckner used to play. This was seriously a treat.
4. THE AMAZING AVALON IMPRESSION
An important aspect of any river cruise is the ship you call home. On this cruise, I was on We went to a retro cafe for wine the Avalon Impression. On the spritzes first, visited one of Impression, as on all of Avalon’s Budapest’s famous ruin bars, and ships, everything is centered ended with a stop at Memento around the view. Whether it’s Park, where many of Budapest’s floor-to-ceiling windows in most Soviet statues and monuments state rooms to a dining room have been banished to. Our designed to make sure every seat guide on this excursion grew has a view of the river, everything up in Hungary during the Soviet about cruising on an Avalon ship Era, and added so much to the is designed to make sure you can experience with his personal see the scenery. stories. The staterooms Early morning in Vienna Another thing I like about Avalon’s If you ever want to know what a ships is that, even though popular tourist city is like for the they’re the same size as most locals who live there, get up and other river cruise ships in the walk around early in the morning. industry, they accommodate fewer That’s exactly what we did on passengers. Our ship could hold this tour, which included an early only 128 people (and wasn’t even morning walk around central completely full!), so it never felt Vienna, followed by Viennese crowded, even when you were breakfast at a local cafe. waiting to grab breakfast at the After breakfast, we made our way buffet or a burger during one of over to the Museum of Fine Arts, the Sky Deck BBQs. where we got to wander through the museum with our guide before The reason Avalon’s ships hold opening time. fewer people is thanks to their fleet being made up of their “Suite Saint Florian Monastery Ships,” or ships with the majority I’ll admit that I signed up for this of state rooms being 200-squareexcursion not really expecting foot Panorama Suites. much. But Saint Florian Monastery blew me away! From These Panorama Suites are its Beauty-and-the-Beast-esque pretty awesome, with the wall of library to its crypt stacked with windows opening up 7 feet to turn bones to its great Baroque Marble the whole room into an Open-Air Hall, I was in a constant state of Balcony. (How smart is this?? awe as we toured this place. Our No wasted space dedicated to a visit ended with an organ concert balcony that you can’t use in all on an organ with more than 7,000 weather.) Terra Travelers | | 35
And, oh yeah, the beds also face was afternoon tea served every the view, meaning you can lounge afternoon, treats in the Club in a robe and not miss a thing. Lounge at all times, and of course the bar in case the beer and wine The lounges included with meals wasn’t quite Unlike some other river cruise enough (and, pro tip: drink prices lines that just offer one big lounge during happy hour each evening onboard, the Avalon Impression were super reasonable!). makes use of all its space to offer not one, but two indoor lounges And, for those worried about (along with a large Sky Deck, and essentially eating in the same small shaded outdoor lounge). restaurant every night for a week, don’t worry: the menu changes The smaller Club Lounge at the daily, and usually includes at least back of the ship was my favorite one or two regional dishes from spot to hang out after my state wherever you’re sailing! room. Here, you can find a 24/7 coffee machine and access to Adventure Host cookies and pastries. I’m used to river cruises having an This was a great spot to watch onboard cruise director, who not the ship pass through locks, or to only organizes shore excursions, break out a board game to play but also coordinates onboard with friends after dinner. activities. But this was my first cruise where our ship ALSO had Flexible dining options an “Adventure Host” onboard. Forget what you know about cruising from large-ship ocean This Adventure Host ran free cruises. There’s no assigned yoga and fitness classes every seating on a river cruise, and day on the ship, and sometimes not really even set dining times. offered to take guests out on bike On the Avalon Impression, all rides using the 16 Avalon bikes main meals are served in the onboard. dining room at set times, but you can technically show up any This was part of an entire time during meal service and be “Adventure Center” onboard, served. Every meal in the dining where you could also rent hiking room comes with an a la carte poles, binoculars, and even menu, though breakfast and lunch FitBits to use throughout the also usually have a large servecruise. This is something unique yourself buffet. to Avalon as far as I know, and I loved these extra ways for people For early risers and/or people who to stay active on their vacation. weren’t hungry enough for a full meal, there were also lighter-fare 5. A REAL PLEDGE TO meals served in the Panorama SUSTAINABILITY Lounge. I made use of this one As someone very aware of day when I needed to grab a my impact on not only the quick bite in between excursions. environment but also on local communities when I travel, I take On top of the main meals, there sustainability pretty seriously. 36 | | Terra Travelers
Thankfully, Avalon Waterways takes sustainability pretty seriously, too. Not only are they taking steps to make their ships and cruises as low-waste and eco-friendly as possible, but they extend their sustainability practices to local economies, too. Some of the environmental concerns they’re tackling include: • The company has a small fleet of ships, all of which use all sorts of cool technology to reduce consumption of everything from fuel to water. • Avalon encourages guests to use its AvalonGO app onboard instead of getting a ton of printed maps and literature, which has helped them reduce paper waste by 80 percent. • I think most excitingly, Avalon has pledged to eliminate single-use plastics on all their ships this year. From a social and economic standpoint, Avalon also is aware that oversaturation and overtourism in some European destinations threatens to turn opinions against tourists. In order to ensure that this doesn’t happen, Avalon mixes stops in popular cities (like Budapest and Vienna on this itinerary) with visits to towns and villages that people have likely never heard of. And when you visit these places, Avalon is employing local guides, renting buses from local companies, and even ensuring that bike tours are run through local businesses using their own equipment, even though Avalon has its own bikes onboard.
This style strikes me as a way the majority of people would prefer to Avalon doesn’t have an official cruise “style,” but a phrase I heard travel, and it’s a style that Avalon Waterways does very well. used several times during my cruise was “relaxed luxury.” Yes, any river cruise in Europe is going Why travel with Avalon? There are a lot of choices to be luxurious. But very few of them are luxurious to the point of when it comes to river cruises in Europe. I’ve now traveled feeling stuffy. with three different river cruise lines: AmaWaterways, Viking Avalon’s Active & Discovery cruises are still very luxurious with River Cruises, and now Avalon the beautiful ship, spacious state Waterways. rooms, and multi-course meals, Ama and Viking are pretty similar but relaxed and welcoming, too. in their itinerary offerings, as (Plus, with most people going well as their style of cruises. I on excursions in workout gear, found Avalon to be slightly more there’s no pressure to dress up relaxed, and more suited to outside of maybe one or two families, younger couples, and dinners.) groups of friends who want to have a memorable trip together.
6. RELAXED LUXURY
ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Amanda Williams Amanda is a former journalist who’s now an award-winning travel blogger. Her blog, A Dangerous Business, is a travel blog that was begun in 2010. She’s on a mission to see as much of the world as possible, in order to show YOU how you can fit more travel and adventure into the lifestyle you already have.
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dad & daughter in
T
he length of dining room windows
shone all blue, the morning sky became the morning sea at that shade of early indigo. Within was different – within was variety and activity – strong coffee and filled tables: a large group from Germany come for the warmer open waters, a table of older French couples who always ordered a bottle of white for dinner and laughed through until desert, a range of couples from New York, Johannesburg, Tasmania, and Melbourne on their own sweetheart getaways, four recent American college graduates, and a solo woman adventurer who had been to Croatia many times over. We were the only father and daughter pair – I wondered how many there had been before. I don’t suppose many fathers and daughters often sail solo together across the Adriatic. I imagine fewer do week-long cruises in shared cabins after not having seen 38 | | Terra Travelers
each other for almost a year. Going from a bi-weekly ‘I miss you’ to an everyday ‘good morning’ is a wonderful, strange transition; sharing a banana with fresh yogurt and honey, passing the sugar, passing the time after the sugar, all while sharing that same hazy blue view is something else entirely. And we did this all on Katarina – Split to Split – one week in early June; there are fewer times I’ve felt more appreciative of international travel, the sea, and of being my father’s only child. We gorged on three-course meals with coffee caps on the back-end of the dining deck; we splayed out and sun-screened; swam in the cool and calm post breakfast; read together and reflected on our respective novels. We gazed out as sharp gray rock smoothed and curved into the sea, and as whole islands passed us by. The Adriatic, always sedate and glossy, delivered us to the old stone coasts and winding streets of Makaraska, Korčula, and Hvar, designed like fish spines to catch the
d a l m at i a
wind off the sea and cool the old cities in the summer. We united again every night after dinner below open night skies and talked of things fathers and daughters don’t talk about when they live 7,000 km from each other: about being lost and anxious at 23, about sweet Trstenik raisin brandy, about walking meditation and the essentialness of mindfulness, about sweet cherries in exchange for Croatian rakija, about missing home and yet still needing to explore the world as a young, restless soul, about how grateful and proud you can be of your own father for having traveled all his life and retired with the dream to do more, of the glorious taste of Ožujsko after biking the Mlijet lakes for 14 km. We said many živili’s. We said many goodnights. We said many goodmornings. And in the end, we said a very gracious thank you: to a wonderful, exuberant crew we had grown close with; to the sea for having carried us all that way; to the Spalato for being our home at port always waiting;
Victoria Todd
and to Dalmatia, for being as spectacular as she is, and for having allowed a father and a daughter to reunite after so long. If only for a week, these are the days that seem to stretch forever, with no agenda beyond cultural exploration, simple relaxation, and the occasional Croatian cheers to life: Zivili, always.
A B O U T T H E A U T H O R : Victoria Todd Victoria Todd is an English teacher in Mallorca, Spain who prefers sentiment to reason, coffee to cañas, travel to homespace, and writing to everything else. She’s spent three years living and teaching through Spain, journaling and photographing the beauty of a life abroad.
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