Treasna na dTonnta 54

Irish Sea Kayaking Association

no.54

Misty Fords Alaska-Sea Kayak Capsize ! ! ! Ireland's Tide Races

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Hi Folks, Welcome to the latest edition of TnadT. Firstly, I think I can offer on behalf of the entire sea kayaking community thanks to Martin for his stint as chair. Martin's letter of resignation is our first article. From my point of view, Martin, you were a pleasure to work with.

We were a little thin regarding articles for this issue so it gave me an opportunity to use two long articles which have been waiting the sidelines for a while. We have Tom Ronayne's excellent Alaska trip, a trip undertaken with some relatively inexperienced sea kayakers, which raised some interesting issues for Tom. Etienne Muller got some well intentioned but inconvenient help when out paddling and wrote an article on same. We also have the Ireland's Tide Races piece to which many of you contributed on the BB. Much of the additional information is taken from David Walsh's Oileann.

Thanks again David, for a fantastic resource.

Just to be contentious, I have graded the races... Happy reading. Happy paddling.

Tadhg Chair's Resignation Address

by Martin Guilfoyle I will be resigning as Chair of ISKA at the symposium in October 2013. This is a position that needs filling and I would like to invite someone to step forward to take over the position. The role of the Chair is to try and keep things running smoothly and to try to keep ISKA true to its ideals and maintain the same objectives of the founder members. Sometimes it is good to look these up and they are there for all to see on the website.

Different people will always have differing views on how this should be done. Sometimes it is the role of the Chair to try to take the various opinions on board and to try to come to some form of consensus. This is not always the easiest thing to do as sea kayakers by their very nature are strong willed individuals.

Fortunately, there are very few issues that are not resolved satisfactorily as again sea kayakers realise that we are all part of a group. I have been very fortunate to have had many committee members to work with and despite differences of opinion at times, we have always found a way to do what was best for the membership.

I want to offer my thanks to the present and past committee members that I have worked with and for having the patience to put up with 2!

me. I would especially like to thank Conor Smith, the Secretary Treasurer and Member Coordinator, for his organisational and IT skills, as well as his money management.

Conor has agreed to continue in his position for another year and will be there to help the new Chairperson in any way required and to ensure a seamless handover. Previous Chairs have been invaluable to me and have helped when asked, for which I am very grateful. I would like to think I will do likewise for the incoming Chair.

While stepping down from my current position, I am happy to remain on the Committee as the West Coast Rep, if of course you will have me and the position is available.

ISKA is an evolving association and the ISKA of 2013 is different to the ISKA of 2003 and more different again from ISKA 1993. It will continue to change and should always be what the membership wants it to be. As it evolved, it has always remained true and successful in its aims and objectives.

My first ISKA meet, apart from CATITWE, was attended by 9 paddlers. Most of these were highly skilled paddlers and early ISKA members. I can remember feeling privileged and very safe paddling with the best. I was made to feel welcome and had a great time of it. At the next meet I attended, there were 13 and again the same welcome and fun to be had was there. The sport grew as ISKA grew and then the meets got kinda big. One CATITWE at Streamstown had over 50 people on the water one day.

Clubs and loose collections of groups started to form and develop around the country. Sea kayaking is now thriving in Ireland.

ISKA will continue to be a focal point for national and international communication and contact. It will continue to be a means by which sea kayakers from everywhere can be in contact, arrange trips, share knowledge and encourage the promotion and safety of sea kayaking. I am sure it will continue to be a relevant organisation for those who love the sport, the sea and the environment.

In my time with ISKA, I have developed a greater understanding and knowledge of the history and culture of my country. I have become more aware of the diversity and fragility of the environment in which I play. My paddling skills have vastly improved (although some might disagree with this). Over the

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years I have gained so much from ISKA and it was a privilege to be able to put something back.

ISKA relies on volunteers and we need people to fill the positions coming vacant after the next Symposium. We need volunteers to lead trips and organise meets. It does not take up too much time. One suggestion I would make is that the Chair and Secretary are not forced into organising the symposium, as well as maintaining their own roles.

The last two years Conor and myself have ended up doing both and this is not easy and time consuming.

A volunteer has come forward to organise Symposium 2014 which is very much appreciated, but I will not announce any names until I make contact.

The organisation is ours and it is up to us to run it and maintain it the best way we can and to be true to the aims and objectives. Thanks to everyone for their help and especially to the founder members, for everything you have done for sea kayaking in Ireland.

From the start I had a niggling doubt about taking them on this trip but as the weeks and months went by my concerns about their paddling abilities eased. My biggest concern was their lack of first aid experience. This did not and could not improve to my own standards in the time available to us so I accepted it as a risk. This was a weak link but I judged it acceptable even though everything depended on me being OK. What I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t realise was the mental pressure I would come under and the doubts I would suffer, on a daily basis on the trip, because I was taking my daughter and son with me. My biggest error (there were others) was to go on the trip without a paddling peer.

Our plan was to circumnavigate Revillagigedo Island in Misty Fiords National Monument (2.2 million acres) which is part of Tongass National Forest (16 million acres) in South East Alaska.

Make life your hobby and paddling your pleasure.

Martin Guilfoyle Chairperson Kayaking Misty Fiords, S. E. Alaska July 2002

by Tom Ronayne On the 28th June 2002 my daughter Cathy (21) and my son Donal (20) and I (Tom 48) left Dublin to go on a 2 week wilderness sea kayaking trip in Misty Fiords, SE Alaska.

We paddled 172 miles in eleven days and took two rest days. I had kayaked Glacier Bay, SE Alaska in 1999 with two kayaking buddies and neither of them nor any of my other kayaking buddies were able to make an extended trip with me, Cathy and Donal so we decided in August 2001 to go ourselves.

Both Cathy and Donal were infrequent paddlers at that time. They paddled at close to level 3 (without the roll) on rivers and had only had a few trips on the sea so I started training them on the sea with my buddies, bringing them to a competency level that I was happy with both at personal level and in rescues. I was a level 5 river and level 4 sea instructor.

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I had chosen this place for our trip following lots of research in kayaking Alaska.

Revillagigedo Island is in an enormous fiord. Only the south eastern tip of the island (Pt. Alva) comes under the direct influence of the Pacific and we would paddle this section on our second last day.

The tidal range for our trip was between 10.3ft and 16.9ft. Our biggest threat on the water would come from wind.

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Day 1, 1st July 2002. Settlers Cove to Roosevelt Lagoon. 9 Miles. Our plan today was to paddle from Settlers Cove to Roosevelt Lagoon a distance of 9 Miles.

We were driven to Settlers Cove by Southeast Sea Kayaks (the excellent company we rented our kayaks and equipment from) and were dropped off, with all our gear, about 400M from the shore. We carried all of our gear to the beach and packed everything into our kayaks, filled our water bags and got ready to launch. The sea was calm, the tide in or favour and the weather good. Perfect.

We wanted to paddle with the incoming tide so we left Settlers Cove at 1.00PM, an hour after low tide at 11.59.

My plan was to paddle along the coast inside Joe and Grant Islands but within 15 minutes of leaving Settlers Cove we spotted the blow from two whales outside Grant Island.

We changed direction and paddled outside Grant and watched two Humpback whales blowing and diving with tails up, about a mile away and coming closer.

What a start. We couldn't believe our luck. I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to risk going too far from shore on our first day so we turned back in towards shore, keeping an eye on the whales as we paddled. We stopped off on Moser island for lunch - pitta bread, cheese and Cup-ASoup or tea/coffee (the same every day) and then headed for Naha Bay to paddle in to Roosevelt Lagoon.

Roosevelt Lagoon is a freshwater lake flowing into Naha Bay and was a beautiful place to camp. It had a shelter and an outside loo. Luxury!! (There is a board walk around the lake leading to a viewing platform over a river where you can watch black bears feeding on salmon from relative safety from mid-July to September. We decided not to go there because we didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to get caught out on the trail in the dark. Disappointing.)

There were signs of bears around our camp so we made plenty of noise to keep them away. Both brown and black bears can be encountered in Misty Fiords although Revillagigedo Island is inhabited mostly by black bears.

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It was a great relief for me when we got on shore. I had been tense all day because I realised, as we paddled that I had forgotten to pick up two extra VHF radios from the rangers station in Ketchikan.

Of all the mistakes I could have made this was a bad one. We discussed it and decided to keep going because to turn back would mean the loss of a day or possibly two which would put the whole trip in jeopardy.

Acceptable risk? I suffered for this decision.

Every piece of equipment that you need for a two week wilderness sea kayaking trip has to be carried in and/or on your kayak so you have to be very careful about what you bring with you and what you leave behind.

Lunch, Moser Island. Tom Ronayne Packing your kayak is an art form. The equipment you won't need until you are setting up camp in the evening goes in first and the things you may need during the day go in last.

Sounds easy. We would get it right over the next few days but it was handy to have the shelter and a big table here to lay everything out and swop things around a bit.Cathy and Donal paddled very well today. It was a short, 3 hour paddle and a good start to our adventure. Conditions today: Overcast all day; No wind; Light rain for a while; Sea mostly calm but a bit choppy at times; Excellent for paddling; Saw two humpbacks; Stressed all day.

Day 2. 2002 Roosevelt Lagoon to northern shore on Neets Bay. 19 Miles. Our plan today was to paddle from Roosevelt Lagoon to the southern shore of Neets Bay, 15 miles.

As we left Roosevelt Lagoon a park ranger and a float plane pilot arrived. They

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gave us the following advice about bears.

"There are mostly black bears on Revillagigedo but the odd brown bear does swim across the Behm Canal to the island. If you see black bears stand up to them. Throw sticks or stones at them and shout and they will run away!!” “If you see a grizzly get out of his way.”

We hoped not to have to try either method. Conditions were perfect as we paddled north towards Neets Bay. We stopped for lunch just north of Traitors Cove and spotted a couple of Humpbacks ahead of us as we paddled. It was wonderful to see them, especially when their tails come up as they prepared to dive.

Our plan was to camp on the south side of Neets Bay but there was nowhere to pitch the tents so we had to paddle an extra four miles to cross to the northern shore to find a

these! Donal and Cathy saw a young black bear walking along the shoreline here. They were sitting at the shoreline about 50m from our camp when the spotted him. Donal whispered to Cathy that he was going to get the video camera and he ran off quietly, leaving her there. He told me there was a small black bear on the beach and asked where the video camera was. We both ran back to where Cathy was just in time to see his backside disappearing into the trees as he ran away after Cathy made some noise. Good to know that the ranger's advice worked, although this was a young bear. The weather was very good here and it was wonderful to be able to relax as the evening turned to night and we listened by our camp fire to Cathy reading us a chapter from ‘Lord of the Rings’ -"The Fellowship of the ring".The paddling was very easy so far. Cathy and Donal were doing exceptionally well. I

spot to pitch. Distances were very deceptive. It is four miles from our kayaks in the photo to the point on the far side of the bay. Paddling on seas like this is very easy though, so long as the tide is with you. It was very difficult to find two pitches for the tents as the ground was very rocky. There were millions of mosquitoes here and we had to resort to wearing ’mozzie nets’ to protect our faces and necks.

Very awkward to eat dinner through one of

found that I was a bit less tense as the miles build up behind us. It was very important for me to know that when we had to paddle further than we had planned to that they could do it.

Our pre-trip training was paying off.

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Neets Bay camp. Tom Ronayne

Drying the shelter, Neets Bay. Tom Ronayne.

Conditions today: Overcast early on but cleared up later; No rain; No wind; Sea flat calm; Lovely sunny evening but millions of mosquitoes.

Cathy was very difficult because we were paddling against the now ebbing tide. We hugged the shoreline as we paddled but it took us nearly an hour and forty minutes to paddle a distance that had taken us an hour when we broke camp earlier. A lesson learned. I also wished I had brought three 2 way radios for the trip because we had no way to communicate with Cathy. We had discussed bringing 2 way radios before we left home and decided that as we would always be paddling close together that we would not need them and we were to pick up 2 extra VHF radios in Ketchikan!!!!

Day 3. Neets Bay to Blind Pass. 13 Miles.

Our plan today was to paddle to Bailey bay, 18 Miles, to camp there and to hike the two and a half miles up to the hot spring at lake Shelokum. Up at 06.30 and left at 08.15 Tide was full at 07.40. We decided to paddle against the ebbing tide to get away from the mosquitoes and also to get a few miles paddled early on. We were going to have to rest for a few hours as the tide picked up sped against us so we paddled for an hour and pulled in at Chin Point. The sun came out as we arrived so we pulled out all of our gear to let them dry. I couldn't find the poles for our shelter and decided that I would have to go back to Neets Bay to search for them. Cathy didn't want to paddle the three miles back and Donal said that he would come with me so we reluctantly left Cathy behind. We paddled fairly quickly with the tide but found no poles. I searched my kayak again and found them buried up into the nose of it! The paddle back to

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The further north we paddled the narrower the Behm Canal became but it was still a few miles wide. We decided to paddle through Blind Pass on our way to Bailey Bay as it is only a few hundred yards wide. There was also a cabin there which we thought might be interesting. The scenery was stunning as the mountains closed in around us and we searched for the entrance to Blind Pass. It was after 5.00pm and had just started to rain when the cabin K2 in Blind Pass came into view. It was set back in the trees and staying there for the night was too good an opportunity to miss, if there was nobody there. (You are supposed to book and pay for these cabins in advance.

We were advised locally that if nobody was at the cabin by 6pm that we could move in so we did). We settled in easily, lit the stove, hung up clothes to dry and cooked a meal of pasta and tinned chicken with pineapple chunks for desert, all rounded off with drinking chocolate.

The cabin was wonderful. There was a strong smell of cedar wood and it had 2 double and 2

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single bunks, a wood burning stove a small shelf unit and a storage press and a pile of cedar logs for the fire.

I had great fun chopping logs for the woodpile. We lit the stove and set up a clothes line to dry our clothes.

Approaching the cabin K2, Blind Pass. Tom Ronayne We checked our supplies and were happy that we had enough. I got badly bitten by mosquitoes on the backs of my hands as I forgot to use the anti-mozzie spray. It was a great day.

It was terrific to hear Cathy and Donal singing as they paddled. They had had no problems paddling and were getting stronger each day.

What was really great was their enthusiasm. It did not matter how far we had to go. They just did it. They were very positive and we were all getting on well together. We had decided that we would head for Bailey Bay in the morning and hike to the hot spring at Lake Shelokum.

We would have to get up at about 05.30 to paddle with the tide. A great day today with a surprising end to it. Conditions today: Very sunny to mid-afternoon; Rained later; No wind; Sea flat calm; A cabin to stay in; A bunk for a bed.

Day 4. Blind Pass to Anchor Pass via Bailey Bay. 20 Miles. Our plan today was to paddle to Bailey bay, to hike the two and a half miles up to the hot spring at lake Shelokum and then to paddle to Anchor Pass. 20 Miles. I slept very badly last night because of the itch in my hands and from the heat of the cabin.

Woke Cathy and Donal at 05.30 and we had packed and tidied by 07.30 Six inlets come 8!

together at the Behm Canal between Blind Pass and Bailey Bay. High tide was at 08.53 and I was concerned about possible turbulence as we crossed especially if the wind was up. I also wanted the tide with us as we paddled up Bailey Bay. The sea was flat calm but it was very misty as we left Blind Pass. Visibility was less than 200 metres inside Blind Pass and I hoped that we would be able to see the opposite shore of the Behm when we paddled into open water. I need not have worried.

Conditions were perfect. Tide with us, sea flat, and the entrance to Bailey just visible. It was about a 5 mile paddle to the beginning of the trail to the hot spring.

We tied up our kayaks, packed our lunch and decided to wear our kayaking gear for the long hike which turned out to be a wise decision because of the amount of water on the trail and one waterfall that we had to cross. It was a long hike through dense temperate rain forest up to the hot spring. Much of the trail is covered by boardwalk but it was worth the 2½ mile walk, despite being on constant alert for bears.

Donal, Hot spring at lake Shelokum. Photo Tom Ronayne.

We stripped to our shorts and lay in the hot sulphur--smelling pool and marvelled at the wonders of nature. We ate a snack at a shelter by the hot spring. On our way back to Bailey Bay we met a group of scouts on their way up. They were not very talkative apart from saying 'hello' but a number of them were carrying rifles. Interesting!! When we reached the kayaks the tide had receded and we had to

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carry them to the water. We had a near disaster when I slipped on a rock and dropped Cathy's kayak. There was a sickening crack when the fibreglass hit a rock. I was nearly afraid to look. No damage but I taped up the seams with Duck tape just in case. It had never crossed my mind to ask for a fibreglass repair kit when we rented the kayaks. Another big mistake.

The distance from Bailey Bay through Bell Arm to the cabin (K1), at Anchor Pass is about 15 miles. We decided to head for it after eating lunch and reached the cabin about 18.00. This was a committed paddle. It was obvious from the contours on the map that there would be little or no places to pitch (none as it turned out) between Bailey and Anchor Pass and once we started we would have to finish. We were paddling with the ebbing tide and there would be no turning back against it. Cathy and Donal's capacity to paddle amazed me. We were rarely more than 30 metres apart and paddled at the same rate. Their sense of humour and fun made the paddling go much easier. It was great that they got on so well. Bell Arm is only about a half mile wide with 1,000ft, tree lined, slopes on each side. Cathy and Donal sang along the way, each one singing a different song and trying to mix the other up.

Very funny. We paddled east, with the tide, along Bell Arm and eventually turned south into Anchor Pass where we met the incoming tide from the east Behm Canal. The water had been crystal clear but now it was a murky brown and you could see a line across the water where the clear and murky water met. Extraordinary. We paddled the last few miles against the tide and eventually reached the cabin (K1) about 18.00. It was in a beautiful setting, facing out into the Behm and the snow covered mountains in the distance. There was nobody there and we made ourselves at home again. Donal cooked dinner—noodles and tuna. We had a hot drink and four squares of chocolate each after dinner. Lovely. The three of us were fine, at this stage, although I needed to keep an eye a few things. I needed to be aware of their limits as we could not always stop where we wanted to – like a 10 mile paddle and nowhere to pitch.

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Cathy's left ear was very red and sore.

She said that it was from the cold (although it hadn’t been cold as such. Not to the extent that we would need to wear gloves). It could have been sunburn. I rooted out a thermal hat for her but her head got too hot as she paddled. She put Savlon on it and seemed OK. (Cathy had worn a peaked hat and Donal and I wore broad rimmed hats. There was a lesson there). Cathy was very self-driven. She loved to look at the map and to decide where we might head for. She always knew where we were in relation to the map. She was excellent at reading the coastline and at pinpointing where we were at any given time. She was really enjoying the trip and was thrilled to be here. She was incredibly excited by the wildlife. Every time a seal popped its head up it was like it never happened before. Tiny little hummingbirds always excited although their sudden appearance and the unique sound from their wings could startle. She kept telling me not to be scared!! Then there were the whales we had seen!! Donal was in great form.

His back was a bit sore but he was not concerned. I told both of them that if something was wrong with them that they must tell me.

That it was a group thing. Donal, like Cathy, was fascinated by everything he saw and heard. The wildlife; the mountains; the trees; the hike to the hot spring; being there. I think that he would have stayed in the spring all day.

He was studying geography in college so it was a big bonus for him to be there. His paddling and rhythm were excellent and his sense of humour kept us all smiling. The VHF radio stopped working today. It’s not the battery. We may have been out of range or just in a dead spot. Not having the radio was a big cause of concern but I did have an E.P.I.R.B. (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon) as a backup in case of emergency. Conditions today: Very misty early on but cleared by 10.00AM; Overcast until late afternoon; No wind; Sea flat calm; A stay in another cabin; VHF failed.

Day 5. Anchor Pass to Point Whaley. 6 Miles. Our plan today was to paddle from Anchor pass across the Behm to Point Whaley and to cross the Behm again to Saks Cove

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(12M). Ten minutes after leaving K1 we rounded Point Lees and I couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t believe it when we found that the tide was against us fast, as if it was flooding. The tide should have been going the other way. It took us an hour to paddle one mile when our paddling rate was above 3 miles an hour. We had to pull in. I double checked the tide tables and the map.

It appeared that the tide flowing out of Burroughs Bay was flowing west instead of south into the eastern arm of the Behm Canal as I expected.

We each had a bad feeling about the place we had stopped at (grizzlies) so we left after 40 minutes and crossed the Canal and headed for Point Whaley. As we approached Point Whaley the wind came up quite suddenly and with it the sea. We found ourselves paddling against a growing wind and tide, in 2ft swells and facing a 2 mile crossing of the Behm to Fitzgibbon Cove. Now I was very worried about the VHF radio not working. I could not get a weather forecast. There was nowhere to beach. If we turned back we would have to cross the Behm to beach on the northern shore and we didn't

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like it there.

Behm Canal. Point Whaley in the distance.

Tom Ronayne We hugged the shoreline for the last few hundred yards to Point Whaley and I got Cathy and Donal sheltered, in rough seas, behind an outcrop of rock while I rounded the Point to look for a way off the water. As I rounded the Point I the sea and wind were much stronger as they channelled up the Behm Canal. Immediately around the Point was a small cove with a small gravelly beach, exposed by the ebbing tide.

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I went back for Cathy and Donal and we beached safely, thanking God for a safe way out. This cove was a tree graveyard with huge trees thrown up like matches on the shore and we put up the shelter in a small space between two huge tree trunks to wait out the wind.

Cathy cooking at the tree graveyard, Point Whaley. This is where we would pitch tents.

Tom Ronayne.

It would not have been possible to beach here if the tide had been in because of the trees on the beach. It was just after 2.00PM. The tide tables showed that high tide would be at 10.01PM and would be 5 inches higher than the earlier high tide. Judging by the tide marks on the beach we might just be able to pitch the two tents on the beach there.

The problem was the wind. If it stayed as it was or increased it would drive the sea higher onto the beach. We decided to search for a pitch higher-up, off the beach. The ground was very rough and sloped steeply and the trees were dense.

We found a spot where we might pitch one tent but it was very close to the edge of a high drop onto the discarded trees on the beach below and the ground was very uneven. We used our spare paddles to level the ground as much as we could and pitched a tent there, hoping not to have to use it. By 7.00PM the wind had died down.

We sat and waited for the tide to come in full and once we were happy that we were safe we made two pitches on the beach, above the high tide mark, between the fallen trees and 11!

we prepared for bed. As we waited we saw a ferry sailing north near the opposite shore. It looked like it was sailing into Burroughs Bay. I tried hailing it on the VHF radio but got no reply, no matter which channel I tried. Not being able to receive a weather forecast and not being able to call for help, if we needed it, were very serious problems. They worried me greatly. Twice after beaching at Point Whaley I paddled 300 metres off shore to get a feeling of the sea and wind conditions. I felt happy that we could paddle across the Behm to either Fitzgibbon or Saks Cove but I didn't know for definite if we could camp there or if the weather was going to deteriorate further. There was a risk in making the crossing and we were not here to take uncalculated risks so we stayed put. Conditions today: Overcast all day; Sea choppy to start with but picked up to 2ft swells after an hour; No wind to start with but strong head wind appeared suddenly after an hour, coming up to force 4 at the most; Died down by 7.00PM; VHF still failed.

Day 6. Point Whaley to Hut Point. 29 Miles.

Our plan today was to paddle from Point Whaley to Chickamin River, a distance of 19 miles.

We all slept very well last night. I woke at 5am and the sea was flat calm which was a total contrast to what it had been when we went to sleep. I woke Cathy and Donal and we started the process of breaking camp. We were fed and ready to paddle across to Fitzgibbon Cove at 7.45. High tide was at 11.05am today so we were paddling against the incoming tide but with the sea so calm and no wind it was best to cross the canal just in case the weather changed. We paddled past Fitzgibbon Cove and on to Saks Cove and we pulled in there to rest and to allow the tide to turn. As we paddled in to Saks Cove Donal was leading and approaching a small beach when he spotted a young grizzly bear searching for scraps. I managed to catch him briefly on our video camera before a noise made him disappear into the forest. The sun came out and the sky cleared as we paddled across the Behm to Fitzgibbon so after beaching the kayaks we sat out on rocks on a small headland to await the turn of the tide. Cathy and Donal questioned me about why we had only one VHF radio. I reminded them that I was supposed to pick up two VHF radios from the park rangers office in Ketchikan but had never gone there to report in because I had left our plans and details with

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Greg at SE Kayaks. I simply forgot about extra VHF radios. We decided to hail the next boat/ ship that we met so that we could check the radio. Once the tide turned we paddled south and made a brief stop for lunch at Robinson Creek and we filled up our water bottles. Sea conditions were like glass, there was no wind and the sun was making a great effort to shine continuously. Perfect paddling conditions. As we paddled we became aware of a lone paddler coming towards us. We each changed course to intersect and we met a lovely Aussie called Glen. We rafted up and swopped stories.

Glen was doing the same trip as us in reverse so we were able to advise each other about places to camp and to get water. Amazingly he had paddled Glacier Bay in 1999, the same year as me. He told us that he had no tent just a hammock with a waterproof cover that he tied up between trees. Interesting. We swopped email addresses and wished each other well as we parted. The ebbing tide was a big help as we paddled on but once we turned in to Chickamin Cove we had a tough paddle against it as we searched for a place to pitch.

The guide book said there were some good pitches here but we paddled for two and a half miles without finding anything we liked. There was a vast amount of sea grass between the sea and the shore and it was way too difficult to try and get the kayaks to the shore. Glen had told us about a good pitch at a place called Hut Point at the entrance to Walker Cove. We paddled the two and a half miles back to the Behm and turned south again to paddle six more miles to Hut Pont. This was turning out to be a very long day. Just after entering the Behm we spotted a boat in the distance heading north but about three miles away on the far coastline. We raised our paddles in the hope that they would see us and I breathed a huge sigh of relief when we saw the boat turn towards us. There were five people on board and I explained my problem with the VHF. We switched to the same channels and my radio was fine. The owner explained that this part of the Behm was a notorious black spot for radio signals and that we would have to paddle about 20 miles before we could expect to receive a signal again.

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Behm Canal. Does my VHF work? Cathy Ronayne. We thanked him and headed south again. I was so relieved. A huge weight had lifted off me. I hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t slept properly for three nights because my mind could not stop throwing up possible dangerous scenarios that I would then have to mentally prepare for.The sun shone all afternoon and we paddled without kags on flat seas spotting seals, sea otters and bald eagles on the way. It was a long tiring paddle to Hut point but worth it. The best pitch yet. There was a sandy beach at Hut Point in a horseshoe shaped cove overlooked by tall evergreens that provide shade for pitching. We stripped out of our kayaking gear and laid them out to dry and went for a refreshing swim in the cold water. Cathy cooked a dinner of pasta and tinned chicken mixed with cup-asoup followed by segments of tinned fruit. We lit a big fire and relaxed as the sun set on a very long but great day. Conditions today: Perfect; Cloudy to start with; Sun came out and stayed for the day; Sea flat; No wind; 29 miles paddled; Not being able to pitch at the Chickamin river added 11 miles to the days paddling; Found out that the VHF OK. Day 7. Hut Point to Punchbowl Cove. 16 Miles. Our plan today was to paddle to Punchbowl Cove, off Rudyerd Bay, 16 miles.

Woke this morning to a glassy sea and a clear blue sky. The day was to get better as it went on and it was nearly too hot to paddle. I sat and read for an hour this morning, facing out to sea as a Humming bird hovered around my head. The sound of their wings can startle when they appear suddenly out of nowhere but they are beautiful. We broke camp and headed for Punchbowl Cove at 11.00. There were very few places to stop-off on this leg of the trip so we had a break on the water (Granola bars and water). We spotted two Dall's porpoises as

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we paddled. They only stayed with us for about ten minutes but it was lovely to see them. A nice diversion from the rhythm of paddling. The view as we paddled in to Rudyerd Bay was quite spectacular. 3,000FT peaks slope up from the water on either side of the bay with a 3,150FT sheer cliff face directly in front as we paddled in. When we reached the head of Punchbowl Cove we found a lovely beach with about 5 pitches in among the trees.

There were signs of bears all around but we had become used to seeing them and while we were not totally at ease we were not complacent either. This is grizzly bear country and finding a site with no signs of bears was next to impossible. We were also realistic. To find another pitch we would have to paddle back 5

There is a shelter there where we could have lunch. No paddling at all which would be the best thing for each of us. Conditions today: Clear blue skies; Glassy sea; No wind; Perfect paddling conditions; Paddled sixteen miles; Still no VHF signal.

miles to the mouth of Rudyerd Bay. We stayed put, relaxed and rested for the rest of the day and made the decision not to paddle tomorrow.

There is a lake, called Punchbowl Lake, 600FT above the cove. You reach it by climbing a twisting trail through the forest and we planned to climb to it the next day. We were too tired to do it today. Went to bed at 9.00PM. We were all very tired but were looking forward to a rest day next day when intended to hike up to Punchbowl Lake even if the weather was bad.

day one. (I use dual action filter pumps because they pump both on the up and down stroke thereby saving you 50% of pumping action). It is dangerous to filter water by a river for very long because the sound of the flowing water drowns out other sounds and it would be easy to be surprised by a bear which is something that you don't want to happen. We always filtered water in pairs, facing each other, so that we could watch each otherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s backs. I carried the dry bag to the tents and filtered the

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Day 8. Punchbowl Cove. Rest Day. Our plan today was to have a rest day. No paddling. We would hike up to Punchbowl Cove and just enjoy the day. I woke about 5.00AM and went outside for a pee. I walked as far as the river which flows down from Punchbowl Lake to fill a dry bag with fresh water for our water bags.

The U.S. Forest Service recommends that drinking water is boiled, filtered or chemically treated so we have filtered every drop since

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water there, looking out at a sail boat that had anchored off shore sometime during the night.

It is very peaceful and relaxing at this time of the morning with the stunning scenery and the sound of silence as companions. I went back to bed and woke up around 10.00AM having had a lovely lie-in. We were very interested to see a small rubber dinghy anchored between the sail boat and the shore and wondered how it was to be pulled on shore, as the tide was flooding.As we prepared for our hike up to Punchbowl Lake two men and a woman walked out of the forest and headed towards the dinghy. One of the men started to wade out but realised that the water got very deep within a few feet of shore. I offered to retrieve it for them and paddled out to it in my kayak. It was tied to a heavy weight and I nearly flipped a few times trying to free it before I was able to tow it to shore.

Dinghy rescue; Punchbowl Cove. Photo Donal Ronayne.

We swapped stories about our trips, wished each other well and then they headed off in the dinghy.

We packed a rucksack with lunch, first aid kit and some spare clothes and headed for the trail up to the lake. The trail wound its way up 600ft in ¾ of a mile through dense forest and provided a great view of a 250ft waterfall flowing from the lake. Much of the trail was covered by boardwalk and it was very slippy underfoot as it had started to rain. It took about 50 minutes to reach the lake and to find the shelter.There is a lake on an island on Punchbowl Lake and we could have rowed out to it on a small boat from the shelter but we were 14!

too tired to do it and it was raining heavily. We made lunch and rested, stretched out on the rough bunk beds in the shelter, in the view of the 250ft cliffs opposite with the smell of Cedar wood all around us.We made our way back to our camp and had a quiet relaxed evening, reading, sleeping, chatting and ‘chilling’ as Donal said. My camera battery failed today. I had brought a new spare but when I fitted it, it wouldn't work. I thought I might run out of film (no digital back then) but now I had 150 shots but no camera!!! Luckily the video camera was still working and Cathy and Donal had a camera each.

We left Ketchikan seven days previously and had paddled 112 miles, an average of 16 miles a day. This was great going, especially for two people with limited paddling experience. We began to talk about how to end the trip. About 30 miles south of Punchbowl, where the Behm turns west to Ketchikan, is a place called Point Alava. Three main bodies of water meet here and it is exposed to Pacific swells. It makes for "exciting tidal conditions" and was to be viewed with the utmost respect according to the guide book. Glen (the Aussie we met a few days ago) had paddled around it in what he described as "serious sea conditions" and had told us to be very, very careful there. He also told us that it was a committed paddle as there were few, if any, put out points in good sea conditions. My sole reason for leaving Settlers Cove and paddling north on the first day was to leave Point Alava until the end of the trip so that Cathy and Donal would have built up experience and so that I was at ease with their paddling. We each wanted to paddle into Ketchikan but tidal conditions, weather and whether our VHF radio was working or not would decide whether or not we would paddle around Point Alava. Conditions today: Rained for most of the day but was very warm; A good relaxing rest day.

Day 9. Punchbowl Cove to Princess Bay 19 Miles. Our plan today was to paddle to the log cabin on Winstanley Island, a distance of 13 miles. The sea conditions, tide and the weather were perfect for paddling to Winstan-

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ley Island which was due south of us and had a cabin where we planned to stay the night.

The VHF radio was still not working and we had no idea what the weather would be like later in the day or the next day, so with conditions perfect I made the decision to cross the Behm to Revillagigedo (4mls.) and not to stay at Winstanley. It was best to cross when conditions were good. Cathy was very unhappy with my decision. She respected it but we had a row and a long silence followed. She said that we were all tired, and the cabin would be perfect for a rest. Things didn’t get any better when we arrived at Wasp Cove after making the crossing and found that and we could not pitch there. We paddled another five miles to Princess Bay where we had to pitch the tents on the beach there. Huge trees had been thrown up by the sea and had been dumped along the tree line. There are no suitable pitches among the trees in the forest.This called for careful checking of the tide tables.

The last high tide was at 1.24PM and reached 13ft 4. The next high tide would be at 0.57AM and would reach 16ft 4, a rise of three feet.

With strong winds predicted (WX channel working on VHF) this would mean not going to bed until late so that we could keep an eye on the height of the tide.I had the VHF set to ‘scan’ so that when I turned it on I would pick up any chatter. I let out a big roar of relief when I picked up chatter on one of the ‘inter ship’ channels. It is only 13 miles to Point Alava from Princess Bay. We chatted about paddling around Point Alava again and decided that we would finish our trip there if conditions were too dangerous. The weather was so good and this bay was such a nice place that we might rest here for a day as we had a few days in hand!! We took a refreshingly cold swim and a quick wash before dinner. Princess bay was a beautiful place to find and the weather forecast that we received predicted strong headwinds for next day so the decision to cross the Behm was the correct one. But Cathy was also correct. We were all very very tired. We had some long, tough days and it would have been lovely to stay in the cabin on Winstanley Island.

We were visited by a humpback whale late in the evening, the first we had seen for 10 days.

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We heard his blow before we saw him on the far side of the bay and we sat and both watched and listened to him as he meandered his way about the bay. His blow was easily visible, without binoculars, against the dark line of trees on the opposite shore. Sitting relaxed on a rocky beach as the sun sets, the calmness of the sea, the incredible views, a visiting whale, great company, an earlier swim in freezing water, aching muscles, VHF working and best of all, being happy helped to ease tensions and made for a wonderful end to a tough day. Conditions today: Perfect; Clear blue sky; Glassy sea; No wind; VHF working again.

Day 10. Princess Bay — Rest day. Our Plan today was to paddle south to Rudyerd Island a distance of 7 miles.

We were so tired last night that we went to bed at 10.00PM and took our chances with the high tide. The wind was not too strong and we felt that we would be OK. As a precaution we made a defence line of stones and rocks in front of the two tents. This was more for fun than anything else because the tide was going to go wherever it wanted to.The wind picked up early in the morning and was blowing on shore from the south with the tide. High tide was at 2.04PM and we wanted to paddle south with the ebbing tide. The problem was the wind. It became stronger as the hours went by and it looked like it would be wind against tide once it turned. There was also a heavy mist in the bay and we could not see the opposite shore. We decided to stay put. Our biggest problem was lack of drinking water. There was no stream anywhere close by from where we could fill the water bags. We realised this last night so we collected enough water on our cockpit covers to fill two Platypus water bags from the rain that fell during the night. With the day that's in it there would be lots more.

Cathy and Donal read for hours. I started to whittle a whale from a piece of driftwood and I never saw the hours drift by as he took shape.

It was my first attempt and great fun.The darkened sky cleared gradually as the afternoon approached and the sun came out and beat down on us late into the evening. Blue sky, calming sea, no wind, clothes drying, no mozzies, the whittled whale taking shape and five or six Dall's porpoises bobbing about in front of us for a while before heading up the canal.

What a difference a few hours make.We built a

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fire below the high water line and sat drinking hot chocolate (the highlight of every night) watching the sun set and feeling very relaxed before going to bed at 9.30PM. High tide is at 2.04AM and will be 2ft lower than at 1.00PM today. No worries. Conditions today: Very windy and wet for the morning; No paddling; Clearing in the afternoon to give a lovely sunny end to a nice day.

We offloaded everything from the kayaks and Donal and I decided to go and filter some water from a nearby river. The handle broke on the filter I was using and we were very lucky that I had brought a spare which meant that we would not have to boil all of our water from today on. This would have had a drastic effect on our fuel supply.

Day 11. Princess Bay to Unknown Cove. 5 Miles. Our plan today was to paddle to Alava Bay, a distance of about 13 miles. Woke about 7.30AM to heavy rain. The tide was fully out and was no problem last night. I got up to fill our water bags with rain water from the boats to save us looking for it later. I used a gravity feed from the cockpit covers to fill a bag and a half and filtered it through my mozzie head net.

We had to take the shelter down last night because there was so little room on the beach at high tide so I put it up again to give us cover while we waited for the tide to come in full at 2.45PM. I went back to bed and slept and read until 11.00.

The wind picked up from the south east and was blowing on shore from the south. Just what we didn't want. We could leave here anytime between 1.30PM and 5.30PM and be OK but not into a headwind and the wind against the tide. We would have to wait and see. The later we went on the water the less likely we were to reach Alava Bay but we would be that much closer. The contours on the map showed a reasonably good chance of pitching as we paddle south so we should be OK. We left Princess Bay at 2.20PM heading south. The sea was choppy but easy to paddle in but the wind was southerly, 3/4. It took us 55 minutes to cross the bay, something that would normally have taken us 30 minutes. We took a 10 minute rest sheltered from the wind and made our way slowly down the coast. We were not going to make it to Alava today. The sun came out as we paddled and it turned into a beautiful hot sunny afternoon. We found a lovely little cove about 2 miles north of Rudyerd Island and just level with the southern tip of Smeaton Island and decided that it was the perfect place to stay.

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Donal filtering water near Smeaton Island As we returned across the cove we saw a spectacular sight which I was lucky to catch on video. We were paddling through some tall water grass as we left the river and accidentally disturbed a family of ducks. They scattered in all directions and one duckling was panicked out into open water where he was spotted by a Bald Eagle. The eagle swooped on him with talons outstretched but the duckling dived underwater and the eagle missed. He flapped his long wings and circled as he gained height for a second attack. From near tree top height he swooped a second time but missed again. He gained height again and circled for a minute or so before swooping down and missing again.

Donal and I were sitting in our kayaks mes-

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merised by the contest taking place in front of us, feeling guilty about having put the duckling in danger, and hoping that he would not get caught. The eagle made attempt after attempt to grasp the duckling but eventually grew tired and gave up. He was a young Bald Eagle and inexperienced. He never gained enough height for a proper attack and used up a huge amount of energy gaining height after each miss. He retired to the tree tops defeated.This was one lucky duckling. The tide had gone out a fair bit by the time we got back so we lifted the boats up to the tree line and tied them to a tree. We then pitched the tents above the high water line but there was very little room between it and the trees. High tide would be 16ft 9 at 2.23AM, 2ft 3 higher than the last high, so it was best to be careful. There was about a 10ft drop to the water, which was still deep, so we decided to go for a swim again. It was nice to be in deep water for a change and the three of us had great fun for a few minutes before the cold water encouraged us to shore and the warmth of the sun. Exhilarating. We cooked and ate dinner on a beautiful sunny evening looking across the cove as the sun began to set and talked about our plans for tomorrow whether to paddle around Point Alava or not.

High tide the next day was at 3.27PM. We needed to paddle around Point Alava during slack high tide because rocky reefs are exposed at low tide which would make it very difficult to land if we had to suddenly. This would mean leaving Alava Bay at about 1.00PM. We needed to paddle with the ebbing tide as we left Unknown Cove so this would mean getting up at about 4.30AM to leave between 5.30 and 6.00AM. This would give us lots of time to paddle the 8 miles to Alava Bay. We could wait there for the tide to turn and for conditions to be in our favour. We had an arrangement with Southeast Kayaks that we could relay a message to them by way of one of the ferries that sail up the canal from Ketchikan and we would do this if conditions were dangerous. This was not our favoured choice because we each felt that having paddled so far and for so long that we would like to paddle in to Ketchikan. We would wait until we had reached Alava Bay to see what conditions were like. Cathy had lost a lot of skin on

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her fingers from the salt water and the paddling. She had bandaged them up with strip bandages and should be OK but it was an added concern with thirty seven miles to go to reach Ketchikan. Watches set for 4.30AM. Conditions today: Heavy rain in the morning followed by strong headwind; Changed to a beautiful hot, windless sunny evening.

Day 12. Unknown Cove to Lucky Cove. 16 Miles. Our plan today was to paddle to Alava Bay (8 miles) and maybe to call Southeast Sea Kayaks to get a lift to Ketchikan. I woke at 2.00AM to pee and discovered that I had miscalculated the height of the tide by a few inches. My tent was pitched on a slight slope with the bottom right corner nearest to the rising tide. There was about 4 inches of water in the bottom right corner. As high tide was at 2.23AM I didn't bother to move it. I did check on our kayaks though. We always tied them up at night and they were floating this time, but safely tied to a tree. Some of our bear canisters were floating as well (not tied) so I lifted them up onto some nearby rocks and went back to bed. We were woken before the alarm by some noisy birds so we got up at 4.30AM and broke camp. We packed everything, ate our breakfast and were ready to leave by 06.00. The tide was with us, the sea calm and no breeze. Perfect. We had a nice paddle to Alava Bay and reached it at 08.20, having taken a 10 minute break on the way. There was a cabin there that had been recently refurbished and the view from it was wonderful. I paddled offshore (about a 1/4 of a mile) to a small island in the bay to try and contact a ferry with the VHF radio. I had tried from the shore with no luck.The weather forecast was good for the afternoon with light to moderate wind from the south predicted. Southerly wind was good because it would be blowing on shore.I told Cathy and Donal that they were to get ready to leave by 1.00PM so I sat on the island for about 3 hours but despite repeated efforts to make contact with passing boats was unsuccessful. I even tried channel 16 and was asked politely by the US Coast guard not to use the emergency channel! So Gregâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s advice about relaying a message to him in SE Kayaks

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through local shipping was not an option. We were twenty nine miles from Ketchikan and were due there in three days and as we could not make contact with SE Kayaks were on our own. There was a river behind the cabin and as I paddled in from the island I spotted a black bear coming out of the forest on the opposite side of the river to Cathy and Donal. I shouted and called to them to warn them but they just waved back at me and never saw the bear who just wandered along the coast. I made sure that we each had our on-deck gear tied down tight just in case things got difficult.

We ate our lunch and headed off to paddle round Point Alava.

It was a real anti-climax. We had an easy enough paddle although the wind did pick up a bit to make the last few miles a bit tough but the sea remained calm. After we rounded the point and turned west we passed a small cove where Donal spotted a young black bear foraging for food on the shore. We sat on still waters and watched him for a while and he scampered off when we made some noise. I was sorry that I packed the video away in the front hatch of my kayak.We paddled on until we came to Lucky Cove, another lovely place to camp.We were able to pitch the tents in among the trees on the most beautiful soft deep moss I had ever seen.

Black Bear, Point Alava. Photo, Donal Ronayne There were signs of bears everywhere.

The tide came right up to the tree line here so we had no choice but to pitch the tents in among the trees. We hung up a clothes line away from the tents to dry our clothes in the warm evening sun and sat on the beach eating 18!

our dinner. We rounded it off with the last of our tinned pineapple, a ring and a 1/3 each.

Delicious.We went to bed early for what we hoped would be the last of our nights camping out.

Conditions today: Excellent all day; Light headwind towards the end of our paddle but a lovely anti-climactic day.

Day 13: Lucky Cove to Ketchikan; 19 Miles.

Our plan today was to paddle in to Ketchikan, a distance of 19 miles. This should take about 6 hours and we hoped to ring home to let family know that we were safe. Dublin is 10 hours ahead of Ketchikan so we needed to arrive early to make the call. We rose at 6.15AM and started to break camp. The tide would be fully out at 9.41AM and we planned to start paddling in slack low tide, about an hour before the tide turned. The problem was the tide had gone out a long way from our camp - about a 1/4 of a mile out.This meant that we were going to have to carry the kayaks all the way to the waterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s edge and carry all of our gear. Not a great way to start a 19 mile paddle. This was the first bit of coastline where the tide went out a distance. In all of the other places that we stayed the water was very deep close to shore so it dropped without going out too far. We ate breakfast and started carrying. It took us over an hour. The sand was very soft in places and our feet kept sinking and slipping. By the time we had all of our gear beside the kayaks the tide had receded further and we had to do a second, shorter, carry. Our arms ached like hell and we still had not paddled yet. The sea was calm with no wind although strong winds were predicted for later in the afternoon.We were ready to go about 8.30AM and we paddled for two hours in very good conditions.

Cathy asked me along the way if I had bandages for her hands so we formed a raft while I got bandage strips out of my bum bag but she said she needed bandages. I was horrified when I saw the state of her palms and fingers.

They were raw but not bleeding. I gave her a pair of neoprene gloves to wear until we were able to beach but the wrists of the gloves hurt her as she paddled.

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I slit them with a scissors to ease the pressure and we paddled on, looking for somewhere to pull in. We spotted a sandy beach exposed by the low tide and we paddled in. We set up the shelter and Donal made hot drinking chocolate while I bandaged Cathy’s hands with sterile dressings. I was in awe of her courage and determination. She just dug her blades in and paddled on and on quietly despite the pain and discomfort. A short while after leaving the beach the weather changed suddenly. A strong wind blew into our faces from the west and whipped up 3ft waves.

There was no way that we were going to be able to paddle the three miles across Carroll Inlet and seven further miles in to Ketchikan against a rising force 4. We pulled in to a small gravelly beach and pulled the kayaks up out of the water. We spotted smoke above the trees and went to investigate and were delighted to meet a group of people - some fishermen who were preparing lunch for 5 passengers from the cruise ships who had booked a fishing trip.

We were delighted to be invited for a drink of coffee at an open fire surrounded by benches and gas cookers where fresh fish, caught that morning, was being prepared for lunch and was also offered. They were equally amazed and fascinated to meet us and listened in awe to Cathy and Donal's stories of adventure. I took the opportunity to call Southeast Kayaks on a borrowed mobile phone to let them know where we were and when to expect us in. The fishermen told us that the winds were local winds that often blew down from the mountains in the afternoon and that they would not last long. We chatted with the group and sure enough after about two hours the wind died and we said our goodbyes. We crossed Carroll Inlet safely and started paddling the longest 7 miles of the trip. We could see Ketchikan in the distance but were still paddling into strong winds. It was very difficult to make any headway. Sometimes it felt like we were standing still and that Ketchikan was getting no closer We battled on and gradually pulled Ketchikan in. It was interesting to see houses as we paddled along and then paddled by the huge cruise ships as we approached civilisation again.We bumped into Greg Thomas of Southeast Sea Kayaks as we neared their

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dock and it was a delight to meet him again.

We had a brief chat and then we paddled the last mile in.It was just after 5.00PM when we reached the dock in Ketchikan. Too late to ring home. Conditions today: This last day was the toughest day of them all. We had a bad start, having to lift the kayaks so far before we started to paddle; Cathy’s hands; The wind and an enforced 2 hour break; A final reminder that the wind and the sea deserve respect.

Cathy, Donal and I shared in a wonderful wilderness experience together. We lived on top of each other for two weeks and we depended on each other for everything every day. We started out as friends and finished as friends.

Cathy and Donal had no real sense of what it was exactly they were getting into when they said yes to the trip. Now that they know they want to start planning the next one. Thanks Cathy, thanks Donal.

Conclusion. Is this a trip that I should never have done? Would I do it again? For a little over a year after the trip I would periodically wake up from sleep in a panic that something bad had happened during our two weeks paddling in Misty Fiords and would calm myself by repeating to myself that “nothing happened”.

I knew the risks of making a trip with Cathy and Donal but I wasn’t prepared for the mental stress it would put me under. On the Misty trip Cathy and Donal were totally dependent and trusting on me and my skills to help them but they were not paddling at the same level as me, did not have a dependant roll and did not have the first aid skills that I had to help me or us if we got into trouble. Cathy has been on two other wilderness trips with me (including one with a kayaking niece of mine) and Donal one since our Misty trip. On each of these trips I had paddling peers who would tell you that I was stressed during these trips. I would say that the presence of peers reduced my stress levels by a huge amount. The responsibility of familial relationships does not exist for me in peer paddling. We each accept the risks but there is added responsibility when family members paddle with you. Not having a VHF radio each added hugely to the risks and stress levels and is not a mistake I would repeat. Is this a trip that I should never have

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done? Absolutely not. In many ways it was the best of them all. I should not have carried on without the extra VHF radios. I still have the feeling ‘That I got away with it’. Would I do it again? Not without a peer paddler or two.

PS. If you are thinking of kayaking in Alaska the Misty paddle is about the safest of the places you could choose to go to. Five of us (not including Cathy and Donal) are paddling there in early July this year and I’m hoping for a stress free trip! Contact Southeast Kayaks, they’re good.

Sea kayak Capsize.

"Too much help can be a bad thing."

by Etienne Muller One particular capsizing experience comes to mind, I recall it now with bemusement but I remember being annoying at the time. I was out with a friend who is a very occasional (once or twice a year) paddler, but otherwise a fit enough guy who is a keen hiker.

He was in one of my boats, (a CLC West-river 180). I was in my North Star. We were in deep water about 20 yards off Sherky Island in the

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middle of Kenmare Bay (51° 47' 29" N 9° 53' 38" W - google earth) which has a small lagoon bisecting it that a local diving outfit use as a teaching venue. The local sea-state was perhaps a one foot chop with a bit of countersurge from a long swell bouncing off the island and kicking up the occasional larger lump.

My friend suffering from "rogue wave syndrome" went over, as it happens, just as the dive-boat emerged from the lagoon to witness the event. Of course the good Samaritan impulse took over and, hey presto, along comes the dive-boat, a large Zodiac with eight people aboard and a 70Hp motor at the back, triumphant to the rescue, barging onto the scene. My friend (who has never capsized before) is dragged aboard the Zodiac, which is now jam packed, with nine people aboard, and the Laurel and Hardy act begins of trying to salvage the kayak. Of course the first thing that is done is the kayak is turned over so that it takes on 15 gallons of water and they can't lift it aboard. the paddle is being swung about and has already brained the skipper and a student diver because they are unaware that it is tied on to the kayak.

At this point the boat has been dropped back in the water and is being pounded under the bow flare of the dive-boat. While I, a big

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frown on my dial, am watching this all going on the dive-boat skipper (actually a friend of mine) is giving me the jaundiced eye. As it turns out he is privately censuring me: "That damned Etienne, he brings an inexperienced paddler out into deep water and I have to pick up the (apparently awkward) pieces." By this time we are a couple of minutes into the debacle. They are trying to drag the swamped kayak aboard again and I am becoming fed up myself. I have to yell, "Oy!" in vehement New York tones, to stop the carnage and get their attention, and then insist, with an air of unbecoming authority, "Give me that boat, just let it go!"

I'm looking quite cross, so they let it go, 19 seconds later I have turned the swamped kayak over again and emptied it out, much to the astonishment of the onlookers who had been thinking me so irresponsible. Now the expectation is that I should push the boat over to the Zodiac once more so that they can tow it ashore (the wrong shore, we want to be on the other side of the bay from their home pier) and deliver my kayaking buddy safely to land after his horrible capsizing ordeal. Needless to say, he declined.

To make a point I should have got him to abandon the "rescue boat" and reenter from the water, but in the interest of seafaring goodwill I found the graciousness to allow him to climb back into the kayak from the boat. We had a further hour or so on the water without incident, apart from sighting four dolphins. At a social gathering some months afterward I clued the dive leader into the arcana of open water rescue possibilities for kayakers and he admitted that he, in retrospect, should have assumed less and communicated more before rushing to the rescue. In fact I think the error was mine. The lesson to be taken from this is that, if you are not expecting it, it is very easy to have control of a situation usurped by other well-meaning and otherwise quite able water users. My kayaking friend, incorrectly assuming that the boat option would offer the easiest platform for relaunching, accepted the help.

Unwilling to be impolite to a the diveboat skipper (a friend and fellow boatman), I curbed my assertiveness and allowed the situation to develop. In the end impatience forced me to intervene, but I should have waived them off with total authority and insistence before they could become involved at all. If I had been more prepared and definite they may have learned something: about kayaking, and about overhasty intervention, and my kayaking buddy would have been able to practice a proper rescue.

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Boat building http://etiennemuller.com

Ireland's Tide Races

by Tadhg de Barra This article is intended to catalogue Ireland's best playspots for seakayakers. It's primarily intended for those who want to test/push their skill level and may also be useful for those wishing to avoid such trials! It is also intended to document the wind and tidal conditions in which these spots are â&#x20AC;&#x153;working.â&#x20AC;? The following is an imperfect grading system based on the one used in downriver racing, five being the most difficult, one being the least. In analysing our playspots, I found my original grading system below was impractical, relying excessively on win.

Grade 5 works on peak flow in neaps in slack winds Grade 4 works on peak flow in springs or near only in slack winds Grade 3 works on peak flow in neaps with wind against tide Grade 2 works on springs with wind against tide Grade 1 requires springs, wind against tide and requires an additional element to worksuch as swell, perigean springs, heavy rainfall etc.

I developed an alternative grading- see belowbut with it, lots of races fall between the grades.

Grade 5 works on peak flow in slack winds on both ebb and flood Grade 4 works on peak flow in either ebb/flood in slack winds Grade 3 works in suitable winds Grade 2 works only on springs and good wind Grade 1 works only springs, wind against tide and requires an additional element to worksuch as swell, perigean springs, heavy rainfall etc.

However, my final system incorporates both of the above but also factors in other safety factors, such as likely exposure to wind and swell, speed of tides beyond the race, distance from land, rescue services and reputation. I have also ranked them within each grade. The be-

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low is forever fixed and immutable. Indisputable. Think Moses and commandments, Saddam and WMDs, Anglo shares and sure thing....you get the picture?

Grade Five; exposed, far from rescue, unpaddle-able in adverse conditions, highly challenging in suitable conditions, swimmers separate from their kayak in serious trouble.

1 Tower Race, Hook head Elusive and unpaddleable at it's worst. It combines with ebb, wind, swell and current to create a maelstrom. At Hook Head itself, the “Tower Race” sets up on the ebb. It starts at the point of the headland and extends seaward for 2 / 3km. Its workings are very complicated, perhaps especially when the estuary is emptying into an oncoming ebb, with wind over. The combined tides set up a rotary eddy system, so the resulting direction of the run off at the Head varies enormously. These very powerful hydraulics should be avoided by small boats in adverse conditions. Swim here, next stop Wales.

2 Inishtrahull Sound, Malin Head Another elusive beast with a serious reputation. It even has a whirlpool! About 2km NE of Malin Pier, which is 4km E of Malin Head, the Garvan Isles are widely reputed to be no more than inhospitable, weathered quartzite rocks, named from the Irish ‘Na Garbh Oileáin’ meaning ‘Islands of the Rough Sea’. Tides do run awfully fast through the Isles, setting up mighty races that must be fun to play in under the right circumstances and should be very much avoided otherwise.The tides in Inishtrahull Sound reaching about 4kn in Springs, are notorious with wind over tide and are said to get steeper more quickly than in Tory Sound, but are otherwise quite manageable. It tends to cut up rougher just W of the Garvan Isles than to their E. It is strongly advised to keep east of the Garvan Isles, bound inwards or out, in any wind. The tides in Inishtrahull Sound reach about 4kn in springs and are notorious with wind over. They are said to get steeper more quickly than in Tory Sound but are otherwise quite manageable. It tends to cut up rougher to the west of the Garvan Isles than to the east. It is strongly advised to keep east of the Garvan Isles, bound inwards or out, in any wind. At Inishtrahull itself, there is shallow foul ground at the southwest, tidal races flood and ebb at the northwest and the island even boasts a whirlpool off the northeastern corner, a circular eddy that gets ferocious in springs.

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3 Blasket Sound The likelihood of wind and swell here elevate this slightly slower water into the top tier. The Westies first entry, the tide races in the sounds, including Blasket Sound, have a fierce reputation. Local HW is about an hour before Cobh. The stream timings are affected by strong winds. In particular, in sustained southerlies the flood runs longer and stronger.

The speed of the tidal streams in the main channels varies, but is generally 1 - 3kn. In the narrower channels, in springs, the stream can reach up to 4kn, except between Inishnabro and Inishvickillane, where it is always weak.

In Blasket Sound, the north-making flood rushes past Dunmore Head - An Dún Mór and eddies clockwise around Dún Chaoin Bay. Outward bound, small boats could do worse than follow the example of the ferry, which follows the coast southwest almost to Dunmore Head before crossing. In wind, this may get your boat above the bumpier parts of the tidal race, for a much smoother passage. On the south-making ebb tide, try a more northerly route, taking shelter from Beginish.

4 Slyne Head The combinations of wind, tide and the likelihood of boomers here lift Slyne to the top grade. Travelling west through Slyne head involves passing through the chain of islands.

These are divided by sounds where strong tidal currents and overfalls occur, and are formidable in wind over tide conditions. The area between Chapel Island at L529-409 and Illaunamid at L514-412 is also dotted by reefs, and should be treated with caution, even in small swell. If there are frequent breakers on these reefs, landing at Illaunamid is likely to be difficult, if not impossible. However, if conditions permit, there is scope for exploring and playing in the tidal races outside Illaunaleama - Oileán Léime and Doonawaul - Dún na bhFál.

5 Great Saltee Island Circumnavigation gives good fun in tidal races off the appropriate points, but beware that there is much eddying. There is excellent cliff scenery, and a particularly pretty channel just E of the S tip. Sea conditions at the southern tip become fearsome in strong winds or with wind against tide. Gets into Grade 5 due to the fast tides. Disclaimer; the Southeast getting

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two races in the top rank is unrelated to it being the author's place of origin.

Grade Four 1 Gregory's Sound, Aran Islands The stream between Inishmaan and Inishmore, called Gregory’s Sound, reaches 1.5kn in springs.

Also, being surrounded by cliffs, quite a sea state rises in Gregory’s Sound. In westerly winds, a sea state occurs when the swell claps against the cliffs on the southwest of Inishmaan. The stream between Inishmaan and Inisheer, called Foul Sound, also reaches 1.5kn in springs, but lacks the reputation of Gregory’s Sound, there being no cliffs.

2 McDonnell Race, Rathlin Island Multiple races around the island at all but slacks, but most fearsome is McDonnells on NE corner. Quite exposed to wind. Next stop Scotland. Fair head nearby also has its share of races.

3 Aran Sound, Donegal A large swell runs through the Sound of Aran in strong north-westerlies. In these conditions, the North Sound is virtually closed. Waves frequently break over the Ballagh rock light (10m high). This lighthouse was built in the autumn of 1875 and was originally known as Black Rock. It was converted to electric batteries in 1983. Waves also break over the Black Rock beacon (red) just off Leabgarrow pier. The South Sound of Aran on the E side of Aran is a fearsome place with a high swell, particularly if the swell is from the N. Boomers may be experienced over the shallows on the E side of the sound at a point E of Cloghcor Pt., off the beach on Rutland. You may also encounter boomers immediately west of the Carrickbealatroha Upper rocks beacon 4 Howth Head Sorry FECKERS, not top grade and not Wicklow head. The extent of Howth race and the lack of safe eddies puts it above Wicklow. The tide race at the Bailey Lighthouse on Howth Head runs strong with wind over flood tide also with wind with flood tide. Starts about one km south of Bailey in open sea and eventually reaches to approx 500m offshore. Can run for about one to two kilometers with nice surf up to G3. Dont know what it does with wind and ebb but recent experience shows some action this direction too. Need rescue here for spills 23!

as in open water. Surfs up well at the Nose of Howth also in wind over tide flood, sometimes up to G4 but a shorter run. Good eddy into the lee of Nose of Howth. Spills at the Nose are safe as you wash into the eddy safely but need to have rescue here as only cliff landing. Good for filming and photos from the cliff. Access via the RNLI slipway at Howth harbour for both runs.

5 Mutton Island, Clare Mutton Island lies 1.5km off Lurga Point. With tide running, a most fearsome sea state is said to kick up S of Mutton Island. Beware also the reefs off the W of the island, beloved of wilder surfers. It may jump a grade in future years as more becomes known- the dark horse, for now.

6 Carrigaholts, Kilcredaun lighthouse There are also some nice waves forming on the ebb with wind against tide. Any breeze from SSW to WNW. Not the place for novices as the flow takes you off in a S.W westerly direction and is fairly fast. No easy access at the point This can be quite big in the right conditions. Access from Carrigaholt. On a relatively nice day paddling from Carrig aholt to Kilbaha I got a little wake up and pay attention call here.

It took me a while to realise what was going on. I did my trip plan and homework after the trip and yes it was noted on the sailing pilot.

What makes this a winner (and usually preferable to the bar which can be big and fun but also totally knackering) is the conveyor belt eddy flowing opposite the main flow up the east side of Angus rock to give you a lift back up to the front or to take a break next to the rock, its compact and easy to have people continually circling and those in the eddy can drop back in easy should there be a problem.

Can get a good surf in and the waters always keeping you going be it on a wave or a hole just dropping underneath you. The eddy lines are interesting.

A few minutes in the water might land you in the bar which definitely isn't friendly in the wind required to make this work but there's enough time to sort it out if competent (you can admire the large yachts vanishing and the rumbling sound while playing a decent distance in front of it).

Its worth a call to inform the coastguard before playing there or in the bar as its not a spot

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many would play in with a kayak on the ebb and might result in a "rescue"!

Grade Three 1 Wicklow Head During the flood and in springs, regardless of wind, a large wave forms on the headland 500m south of the lighthouse with a short runoff. Rest in a eddy close to the rocks. On the ebb in springs and with a southerly wind, the headland under the lighthouse gives fast challenging conditions with rest in an eddy under the cliffs. The runoff is quite exposed if a rescue is required. Works on both Ebb & Flood, Circa 6 knots in Springs Flood works on the Southern End of the head aprox 100m south of the light., Needs Southerly Swell to work best.

The flow is squeezed between a submerged rock/reef and the Cliff. Capsized Paddlers are swept into choppy water but relatively safe.

Danger if you are squashed onto the submerged rock and then spat out.

Flood provides convenient "Conveyor Belt" to bring you tired & worn out back to Wickow Hbr. Ebb Flow Works best with Southerly Wind F34 .Squeeze point is 100m North of Light. Play on standing waves until flow gets too strong.

Capsized paddlers are again swept South into relatively safer water. Danger : No convenient landing especially on ebb flow you may find yourself stuck and unable to pull back above the crux point until the peak flow has passed.

A walk out via Camping Ground South of the head is only option. Beware of Ebb flow in Southerly Winds Above F4 as it can get particularly hairy.

2 Carlingford Lough Good overfalls and races occur during both the flood and the ebb around the Haulbowline Lighthouse. The most pleasant and relatively safe playing in these overfalls is on the flood tide. The area is regularly used by local clubs and centres for rough water training.

3 Bishops Quarter Beach Paddlers prefer playing in this race to the more powerful Aughinish Point race nearby, because of its ease of access and relative safety of escape. This race flows into the enclosed Ballyvaughan Bay, whereas Aughinish flows into the more open water of Galway Bay. It is shallow and bumpy with even a hint of westerlies good fun to be in. Access is from Bishopâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Quarter beach at M245-095, 1km SW and 2km 24!

NE of Ballyvaughan. The beach is easily accessible to vehicles, with a good car park and camping. Ballyvaughan has all facilities.

4 Bull's Mouth, Achill The tide floods south through the northern entrance called Bullâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mouth F737-068 at up to 5kn. With wind over tide, quite a race is set up to the SSE. On the flood, a major eddy circulates just inside the entrance on the Achill side, dumping swimmers into the sound. On the ebb, the sound empties to the north, which is often benign. It has a rep but my feeling is this race will drop a ranking in future years.

5 Strangford Narrows Strangford Narrows at the start of the ebb about 200m NE of Angus rock down the east side of the rock there is a stretch about 150m wide and 600m long where there's a deep cut (~40m deep vs surrounding ~10m) with water flowing in from the north, both sides and feeding back in from an eddy. Requires S/SE winds of around 15mph+ and changes character throughout the hour+ its working, if the winds not strong enough when you arrive there's the option of the bar mouth. Head down from the north or east from Kilclief if just playing at this spot, to exit east cross the flow as quick as possible to hug the shore where its easier to make progress back against the tide. Don't miss the opportunity to paddle the Routen Wheel, a whirlpool off Routen point.

6 Aughinish Point This race sets up particularly on the ebb and extends over the entire mouth of the bay. It is possible to avoid the worst of the race by paddling down the north side of the Island. If you feel brave enough to go straight up the middle it will bring a smile to your face...a bit like a Disney ride.

If you get dumped - you will end up out in Galway Bay. It is especially strong at the start of the ebb. Escape points are few due to the size of the race. You can launch from Church Point Beach (M274-124) just past Linnane's Bar....good parking,excellent pub for seafood and a pint afterwords. You could also launch from the pier at New Quay (M281-123). However this is a working pier so parking is limited.

Grade Two 1 Erris Head

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The ‘head’ of Erris Head is on a small, grassy island separated from the Mullet peninsula by a narrow, dramatic channel which is a useful escape from the Atlantic side. Larger boats may find the channel does not behave itself as it should. Yachtspersons feel there may have been a rockfall or boulders thrown into the gap

by W gales, choking and changing things. The passage is safest at HW. Outside that keep to the centre, then the N side near the E end. On the Broad Haven side, about 2km to the SE, is a good little harbour called the Danish Cellar at F706-397, useful on passage, with water in the house and camping. Races occur on the Broad Haven side where returning eddies meet the mainstream.

2 Dursey Island The 14km circumnavigation is a challenging experience and races may be expected off the twin outermost points and elsewhere as tides and wind dictate. Tides flow up to 4kn in Dursey Sound and constantly boil, especially over a rock in mid-channel, under the cablecar wires. There is usually clapotis at the northeastern corner of the sound, which kayakers have found to extend 1.5km to Garinish Point to the northeast. Beware flukey winds at the northern entrance. The flood eddies on both sides of the southern entrance.

3 The Narrows, Mulroy Bay, Co. Donegal.

At the First Narrows, the tide can run at 4 knots in Springs, in both directions.

Between the First and Third Narows: About 5 Knots in Springs at Second Narrows and other constrictions and 2-3 knots at the widest parts.

Third Narrows: At The Hassans you get rapids during which can run to 8 knots in Springs.

"I've been through the Third Narrows once when there have been rapids but if memory serves me right, the rapids disappear quickly and as tidal stream times in the Sailing Directions are " subject to considerable variations" its hit and miss when you get them."

4 Streamstown Bay. With wind against tide (it needs westerly winds) this a nice area with easy access, There are nice surfable waves inside and at the mouth. Outside they are not as regular and can be a bit messy. A good swell improves the conditions. We often use this if the weather is not suitable for off shore paddling. All amenities at Actons campsite. If you are there as a day tripper contact the land owner Chris.

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5 Rineanna Pt, Scattery Island There is an area of overfalls off. This is very erratic in its habits. IT is best in wind against an ebbing tide with a swell. Be aware that the race itself runs fast and heads off towards Ballybunion in Kerry for a few kilometers 6 Kilrush The ebb race between Hog Island and Cappagh Pier extends over 500m, extending NE from the eastern point of Hog to just off the pier itself. This is a splendid play area, fast and steep, yet enclosed and therefore safe enough. It is easy to escape, having distinct eddy lines. A swim, even a long one, deposits the swimmer close to a friendly shore, outside the gates of Kilrush Creek. Certainly comparable in power to the race at New Quay in the N of the county, the extra ‘enclosed feeling’ is a safety factor that makes it preferable.

7 Dalkey Island One stream of the flood tide swings around Killiney Bay and divides, one part moving NNW through Dalkey Sound, the other sweeping east out to sea past the southern tip of Dalkey Island and on past Muglins.

Expect overfalls on the flood at the southern tip of the island. These are particularly big with a south or southeasterly swell. If in doubt about the conditions, have a look from a safe distance at Sorrento Point. Otherwise, following the coast of the island will ensure you are in the full flow before you see the overfalls. A decision to turn back at this stage will mean paddling against a 2-3kn flow.

Grade One 1 Sligo Harbour Closer to Sligo Harbour the flow rate increases, peaking about 1km inside Sligo Harbour, north of Oyster Island, at up to 6kn in springs. The flood divides at the Metal Man, mid-harbour entrance. The main flood flows east through the shipping channel north of Oyster Island and on towards Sligo. A strong secondary flow passes between Oyster and Coney and circulates anti-clockwise around the deep pit just south of the western point of Oyster. The ebb reverses all this.

There are significant danger areas hereabouts.

With wind over tide, which usually means the

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ebb, quite a sea state is generated in the main channel north of Oyster Island and also between Oyster and Coney Islands, in the region of the Metal Man.

2 Malahide Arches Before 2009 the play conditions had existed on the W landward face of the weir, allowing play for about 3 hours of the 12, on immaculate standing waves and stoppers. The post 2010 arrangement does not allow that, but instead the incoming tide creates the neatest flows and eddies imaginable, on fast flat water, the finest teaching environment possible, particularly ideal for progressing intermediates. The slide has walls either side 0.3m deep. This allows preferential flow at the slide, incoming as well as outgoing, permitting such conditions on quite small tides at this particular arch.

Post 2010 also allows playtime at the foot of the slide on the E seaward face, for maybe 10 hours of the cycle, pretty much the whole time except when the weir is covered, say from +0030 HW Dublin until -0130, varying a bit between neaps and springs. The slide works above a tide height of about 3.8m. The higher it gets the more powerful the hydraulics, but it never “grips” unsafely,nor does it ever “wash out”, there being something in it always for someone. The wave is certainly more powerful on larger tides, is progressively more retentive as the water level outside drops, and at all times the side walls need care exiting the stopper wave. LW on regular tides is a very suitable time for teaching beginners because an instructor can stand on the flat foundations just beyond the wave and extract a learner caught in the wave. Throw ropes are very useful for all parties at all times on the wave.

The put in point O227-463 is about 1km SE at a slipway just SE of the Marina Village. Follow the one-way road system around clockwise from the village centre and park where you can. The slip is on the left just before the road heads right and inland again. Keep the marina on your left paddling out. The railway is not at first in sight 3 Tawin Island Tawin East is really a part of the road to Tawin West that happens to have a bridge at each end. It is otherwise undistinguishable from mainland. Tides flow extremely forcefully under

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the bridge on the E side. This area is popular for kayak training.

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