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OUR VIEWS ARE CLEAR
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BRITISH SUPERYACHT REFIT, RESTOR ATION AND BUILD
Welcome to Tresco 2024
Marala, ‘Rebuilt Yacht’ winner World Superyacht Awards 2023 Marala off the Isles of Scilly, © Gareth Tibbs, Above & Below Imagery
I am delighted to be writing this introduction as the sixth generation of the Dorrien-Smith family to take on the responsibility of overseeing Tresco. Firstly, I would like to pay tribute to my father, Robert and stepmother, Lucy. They moved full-time to Tresco and have achieved so much of what makes the island work today in developing the accommodation, facilities and critical infrastructure. They leave their mark in so many places, from the beautiful Mediterranean garden and shell house to the fantastic new houses in New and Old Grimsby, alongside the Hell Bay Hotel, the Ruin Beach Café and Tresco Island Spa. I would also like to thank my Uncle Jamie, who has been a huge support to the whole family – as well as the islanders – over the past ten years. I have been closely observing, enjoying and following Tresco for over 40 years, and for the last ten years, I have been fortunate to have been involved in a great deal of the strategic planning. I am pleased that going forward, I am supported by my fellow Directors, my brother Michael, Melanie Shuldham and my father Robert, who all bring their talents, expertise and experience to the Tresco board. Tresco is a beautiful and unique place, which survives solely due to the support of our loyal Islandsharers, returning guests and a dedicated workforce. My brother and I have a simple mission: to enable the continuation of this special community of residents and visitors and to preserve the essence of Tresco as a unique haven in an ever-changing world. My wife Tania and I look forward to spending as much time as possible on Tresco with our children over the coming years. We look forward to meeting as many other Tresco enthusiasts as possible. We all hope for many sunny days ahead.
Looking ahead to 2025 As the island comes to life, March is a time to be reawakened. Wherever you lay your head, from cottages to The New Inn, choose from a menu of activities led by experts from the islands and beyond. From beach HIIT to yoga, meditation and spa therapies, join us and be revitalised by the island’s unique rhythm.
Adam Dorrien-Smith
CO RN WA LL’S AWA RD -W I N N I N G SU PE RYAC H T S PEC I A LIS TS Based in Falmouth for over 35 years, Pendennis is one of the world’s leading shipyards, with the highest expertise in superyacht refit, build and restoration. Marala, a 59m motor yacht originally built in 1931, is the latest in a long line of classic rebuild projects to launch from Pendennis.
EDITED BY Tom Matthews editor@tresco.co.uk DESIGN & ART DIRECTION nixondesign.com PUBLISHED BY © Tresco Estate 2024 The Island Office, Tresco, Isles of Scilly TR24 0QQ
PHOTOGRAPHY Principal Photographer: James Bowden Additional photography: David Butler, Above & Below Imagery, Rebecca Rees, Rob Besant, James Darling Photography, Tom Matthews ‘How to Crab Shack’ illustration: Elly Jahnz
PENDENNIS.COM 1 | 2024 YEARBOOK
WITH THANKS TO Agnes Chapman Wills, Rachel Young, Tania Streeter, Sailing Scilly, Imogen Bone PRINT Deltor UK, Long Acre, Saltash PL12 6LZ To subscribe or unsubscribe from the Tresco Times, please email contactus@tresco.co.uk including your full name and postal address.
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In this issue P42
P18 The propagator Nurturing new life in the Abbey Garden
P24 Blockhouse Cottage Tresco’s newest cottage unveiled
P54
P42 Rooted in the island The ultimate father and son team
P48 An island tonic
P62
P48
P66
Fragrant Scilly botanicals in an island gin
Features P30 King of the Shells
Showcasing a remarkable life’s work
P54 How to Crab Shack
P34 United in delight
A family day well spent
P60 Tresco Artist: Imogen Bone Island colours on canvas
Getting the most from our local catch
P78 My Tresco – Grace Walton
P62 The art of transformation
The curious coincidence of Coastguards Cottage
P 24
An anthology of original artworks
Regulars
P66 The Lobsterpottery
P18
P6
Traditional techniques for plastic-free fishing
Reflections
A pictorial overview of the last 12 months
P10 On the horizon Events and breaks
P12 #MyTresco
Sharing your love for Tresco on Instagram
P80 Islandshare
30 years of holidays on Tresco
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Tresco: 28 miles off the Cornish coast. Somewhere else altogether.
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Pictorial overview of two thousand and twenty three
One It was a spectacular season for our ladies’ Czar gig crew, who consistently brought home domestic trophies, including the overall season winners. Our men’s and second ladies’ crews also enjoyed a fun season, while new ‘Row in a Gig’ sessions to coincide with the regular Makers Markets gave locals and visitors the opportunity to have a go.
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If you attended Chelsea Flower Show, you may have spotted Tresco’s iconic protea and agapanthus on display. We joined together with Salcombe-based maker Will Bees Beespoke and designer Emma Mawston to create fabrics inspired by beautiful gardens across Britain.
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Twenty four In total, 24 gardens participated, each choosing a flower to represent their environment and the bees they attract. The resulting fabric, in support of the Bumblebee Conservation Trust, is available on a variety of products in Lucy-Tania Boutique and online at willbeesbespoke.com
Four
Sixty
In 2023, we saw the launch of the new Scilly60 event – an epic running spectacle that saw participants run a total of 60km, covering every inch of coastpath across the five inhabited islands of Scilly. Our own CEO Nick and farmer Rowan both took part, Faldore carried runners between the islands, and our Community Centre hosted the finishers’ party. Even bigger plans are in the pipeline for 2024!
Two July saw the island’s ranks swell as two new babies were welcomed to our island community. On 7th July, we saw the arrival of baby Mose to parents Polly Edwards and David Dan, followed a couple of weeks later by the birth of baby Maeve to parents Emily Parsons and Harvey James on 27th July. Congratulations to the new families!
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It was a real Tresco reunion at the recent Head Gardeners Conference at The Newt in Somerset. During the conference, with representatives from around 80 British gardens, Tresco Head Gardener Andrew Lawson and Curator Mike Nelhams met up with The Newt Head Gardener Stephen Herrington and Head of Ornamental Steve O’Brien, both of whom are Tresco Scholarship alumni. They also caught up with Heligan’s Head of Gardens Alasdair Moore, formerly Assistant Head Gardener in the Abbey Garden and erstwhile editor of this venerable publication.
Five
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The New Inn team were delighted to be awarded a Four Star Gold Award from Visit England, recognising their hard work, exceptionally warm welcome and the quality of the recent renovation across the pub’s bedrooms and dining spaces. Congratulations to Sam and the entire team!
Tenacious 11-year-old Wiktoria Wypyszynski braved the sea every day in August with 31 swims for Macmillan. Nothing – not even Storm Antoni – would stop her, and she raised £2,263. It was with great sadness that we said goodbye to the last remaining horse on Tresco, Romero, in April following the passing of his companion, Queops, last year. They were a quietly beautiful part of Tresco life, loved by the Dorrien-Smith family, visitors and islanders, many of whom had their first rides on Romero and Queops along Tresco’s tranquil lanes and beaches.
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One thousand Tresco has long been a supporter of island charity The Island Haven, and our guests can now support the cause by adding an optional donation to their booking. Already, more than £1,000 has been added to the charity coffers through this scheme. The charity aims to build a ‘home from home’ for islanders and visitors undergoing medical treatment on the mainland: a place to stay during prolonged treatment or to allow family members to accompany their loved ones. Find out more at theislandhaven.co.uk 7 | 2024 YEARBOOK
You’ll now find beautiful body wash, shampoo and handwash from British botanical perfumery 100 Acres gracing our cottages, The New Inn and Hell Bay Hotel. They use only 100% natural botanical fragrance oils and we love that their small-batch, British-made products are more sustainable too. A shower on Tresco is now the next best thing to being in the Abbey Garden!
Three This year was certainly the season of love for three Tresco couples. On 24th August, Tristan Dorrien-Smith and Andra Chizeveter married at Cornwall’s Trelowarren Estate at the kind invitation of Sir Ferrers and Lady Vyvyan. We look forward to the happy couple celebrating on Tresco in 2024! On our own shores, the end of the 2023 season was marked by two wonderful island weddings. New Inn supervisor Hannah Louise Keith and heliport fire supervisor Jordan Penhaligon exchanged their vows in St Nicholas Church on 30th September. A week later, spa manager Hannah Abnett and Tresco Boats skipper Brandon Kershaw were blessed at a ceremony on Valhalla Lawn on 7th October.
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On the horizon
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APRIL
JULY
SEPTEMBER
OCTOBER
25th: Outdoor Theatre Miracle Theatre
8th – 14th: Scilly Swim Challenge A week
5th – 10th: Autumn Yoga & Meditation Retreat Gem Hansen and Will Harrigan
performs on the Sea Garden Lawn
9th: The Low Tide Event
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Our uniquely Scillonian experience: a truly pop-up festival, mid-channel between Tresco and Bryher
of aquatic challenges, including the one- and two-day round-the-islands challenges and the new Tresco360 circumnavigation swim
12th – 22nd: Taste of Scilly Festival
Ten days of mouth-watering food and drink experiences across the islands
FEBRUARY
guide five serene nights of meditation, yoga and breathwork
18th: Low Tide Elevenses Join us for a warming hot chocolate mid-channel between Tresco and Bryher 19th – 24th: Yoga Retreat with Lucy Aldridge Rejuvenate body and soul with
9th – 12th: The Restorative Retreat with Gem Hansen An uplifting
Lucy’s Iyengar tuition
winter retreat of rest, relaxation and restoration
AUGUST 8th: Live Music with Seth Lakeman The westcountry folk legend and island favourite plays The New Inn
11th: Outdoor Theatre The Festival Players 12th – 21st: Walk Scilly Festival
Guided garden tours, nature hikes, historical rambles, sunset strolls, and more
MAY
wonderful long weekend away at our cosy coastal New Inn
MARCH 12th: Low Tide Elevenses Join us for a warming hot chocolate mid-channel between Tresco and Bryher
sporting event featuring over 130 gigs
10th – 19th: Creative Scilly Festival A celebration of Scillonian-inspired arts and culture
23rd – 28th: Scilly Folk Festival Six days
18th – 22nd: Spring Equinox Yoga Retreat with Gem Hansen Embrace
the cleansing energy of seasonal change
Join island naturalist and ornithologist Will Wagstaff for a half- or full-day walk on Tresco’s wild side
April 4th and 16th
July 4th and 16th
May 2nd and 21st
Sept 3rd and 17th
June 4th and 18th
Oct 10th and 17th
perform The Tempest; the Bard’s famous comedy of shipwreck and magic
22nd: Scilly60 Tide Race A new half
marathon trail race with a difference – run Tresco and Bryher, including the channel between them, but make sure you beat the tide!
16th – 20th: Tresco Photography Break
Learn from Ross Hoddinott, one of the UK’s leading landscape and wildlife photographers
19th: The Low Tide Event Our uniquely
Scillonian experience: a truly pop-up festival, mid-channel between Tresco and Bryher
ART BRE AKS Be inspired to put brush to canvas and hone your painting skills with the artists and tutors from Newlyn School of Art
8th – 13th May Anita Reynolds
JUNE
A long weekend of broken ultramarathon trail races across the archipelago, covering the coastal paths of all the inhabited islands of Scilly
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23rd – 1st September: Ocean Scilly Festival A celebration of the seas that
surround the isles, championing all waterborne activities, sea life, our maritime heritage and everything on, in and above the water, including a brand new Swimrun weekend
3rd – 8th July
Maggie O’Brien
22nd – 27th May
6th – 11th Sept
14th – 19th Jun
20th – 25th Sept
Amanda Hoskin
14th – 16th: Scilly 60 Weekend
WALKING TIDES Low spring tides grant the rare chance to cross between Tresco and neighbouring Bryher on foot See tide times, heights and advice at
tresco.co.uk/events
of music, song and dance
14th – 18th: Tresco Guitar Retreat Focus on your playing in an inspiring and supportive environment
with Lucy’s Iyengar tuition
WILDLIFE WALKS
3rd – 5th: World Pilot Gig Championships A truly spectacular Throughout February: The Winter Warmer Weekend Enjoy a wild and
13th – 18th: Yoga Retreat with Lucy Aldridge Rejuvenate body and soul
Imogen Bone
Maggie O’Brien
Paul Lewin
Find out more at
tresco.co.uk/breaks
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JAN 14th
MAY 7th, 8th, 9th
FEB 10th, 11th, 12th, 13th
AUG 21st, 22nd,
MAR 9th, 10th, 11th, 12th, 13th
SEPT 18th, 19th, 20th, 21st
23rd
APRIL 7th, 8th, 9th,
OCT 17th, 18th,
10th, 11th
19th
NOVEMBER – FEBRUARY Throughout: The Winter Warmer Weekend Enjoy a wild and wonderful long weekend away at our cosy coastal New Inn
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@jamf irst _ photography # MyTresco
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@annasislandstyle # MyTresco
My winter on Tresco IOS.
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The joy of a blue sky on a winter’s day. @melanijouber t # MyTresco
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Had some time to go through all my photos on my ‘big’ camera… and the sunsets did not disappoint!
@mark _outdoor # MyTresco
@izziemossphotography # MyTresco
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Red squirrel from Tresco Abbey Gardens in the Scilly Isles to wish you a Happy 1st of October
Stunning sunset SUP session last night
#MyTresco
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Your island images @trescobr yhergigclub # MyTresco
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@richmowerphotography # MyTresco
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Thursday evening row for ladies and they come back to this.
Vane Hill looking towards New Grimsby quay as the sun goes down.
@emmath_ ar t # MyTresco
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@jonotaylor84l # MyTresco
Small pieces using @jacksons_art two rivers watercolour paper samples
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@julien_valognes # MyTresco
Echium x scilloniensis, Genista maderensis and Araucaria heterophylla, brightening up the day on a wet and dreary day on the islands. The Echiums are just coming in to their own now. @trescobr yhergigclub # MyTresco @rup _hoyland # MyTresco
@abbierrxxx said yes
@workwearcouture # MyTresco
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sending LOVE and LIGHT from @trescoisland by @kersy_adler #trescoisland #sun #beauty
@pollyashton # MyTresco
Share your images on Instagram using #MyTresco and yours could appear here next year!
...
@chronicles_of_ludd # MyTresco
Tresco a couple of days ago.
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We love our new t-shirts featuring our four wooden gigs from Czar, built in 1879 to the modern day Alfie Jenkins - these 100% organic cotton tees features bespoke artwork by island artist Emma Bagnall-Oakeley. These are now for sale from the estate office or our website www.trescobryhergigclub.co.uk
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DON’T FORGET TO SHARE
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Discovery of Tresco Abbey Garden & Valhalla Collection. In one word: EXCEPTIONAL
@sassytaffee # MyTresco
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Tresco now holds a little bit more of my heart and I now get to call the man I love my Fiancé.
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Island Wanders Pt. 2
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Cultivating a dream: Emma Lainchbury When Augustus Smith was appointed Lord Proprietor of the Isles of Scilly in 1834, he had bold ideas for the future. Making Tresco his home, he wanted the island to be unique – an ambition embodied by perhaps his most outstanding achievement: the Abbey Garden. Augustus Smith built walls and planted windbreaks, sourced plants from across the globe, and forged links with Kew and many of the other great Victorian plant collectors from Britain and around the world. Thanks to his vision, a once-barren landscape was transformed into the remarkable spectacle we see today, home to over 2,000 species of plants from across the globe; truly a world in a garden. The continued flourishing of this horticultural exception is down to a small but hard-working team of gardeners. Propagator Emma Lainchbury is charged with growing new plants from seeds and cuttings, caring for them and continuing to develop and diversify the plants that make this garden unique, a direct connection with Augustus Smith’s own horticultural exploits. Emma grew up in Cornwall, first setting foot on Tresco thanks to her grandparents’ timeshare. Her childhood summers were spent on beaches and surrounded by wildlife on both the mainland and the islands, developing a love and affection for nature that has lasted to this day.
WORDS: Agnes Chapman Wills
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In addition to going chemical-free in the glasshouses, Emma is working hard to eliminate the use of peat – a vital carbon dioxide-storing resource that has been rapidly depleted over recent years – largely due to horticulture.
“When I finished school at 16, I volunteered with the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust for a couple of summers,” she recalls. “I then did a degree in Conservation Biology and Ecology. “After I graduated, I applied for the Abbey Garden scholarship and was successful. I had always dreamed of living here, so it really was a dream come true.” She got stuck into her year as a student, working all over the garden and learning everything she could. When the scholarship was up, she went on to work at Cambridge Botanic Garden and Trebah Garden, and was Production Manager at the National Dahlia Collection – yet the Tresco spell had been cast, and Emma couldn’t keep away. She missed the island and soon returned as the Kitchen Gardener. Although her beloved vegetable patch took up much of her time, Emma’s enthusiasm wasn’t confined to the garden walls. Outside work, Emma could be found rowing the crystal clear waters in the ladies’ Czar crew, at the Community Centre organising the Tresco summer fete, or taking part in – and winning – the Tresco Triathalon. She is an advocate for everything Tresco has to offer.
“I just love being here. I love how close we are to nature, and every time I go on a walk, I can’t help but stop and look at everything. It’s so inspiring.” True to her word, she stops walking to uncover a particularly vibrant orange variety of mushroom – something that most of us would have walked straight past. This love of nature has led Emma down an environmental path, always choosing to avoid chemicals and opting for organic methods wherever possible. In time, she took on the role of Garden Propagator, making the glasshouses chemical-free, opting for biological controls over chemical pesticides and insecticides. “The world of horticulture is constantly evolving; more and more, it is about using nature to help nature,” she says. Each week, Emma performs a pest check; if there is any sign of aphids or whiteflies, she orders the relevant predator. Every pest has a natural antithesis, from parasitoid wasps (Encarsia formosa) to Mighty Mites (Macrocheles robustulus). “We use Mighty Mites a lot,” explains Emma. “They’re soil-borne and feed on the larvae, which you can just about see with the
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naked eye. They’re effective against quite a number of pests, which I suppose is where they get their name!” The impact of chemicals on the environment is severe, and Emma is determined their use should be avoided at all costs. “Pesticides like neonicotinoids are devastating for ecosystems, which is why they’re increasingly being banned in this country,” she says. “The idea of biological controls is to closely observe habitats and maintain a healthy equilibrium. When we have an infestation, we can target the specific problem rather than using blanket chemicals that don’t only kill the pests but important microorganisms too.” Using biological controls also avoids the problem of pests developing resistance to chemical treatments; Mighty Mites will not suddenly be picky with their food! In addition to going chemical-free in the glasshouses, Emma is working hard to eliminate the use of peat – a vital carbon dioxidestoring resource that has been rapidly depleted over recent years, largely due to horticulture. Many plant species rely heavily on peat to grow, so finding alternatives is an ongoing challenge, but one that Emma has accepted with enthusiasm. She is determined that the nursery will soon be completely peat-free.
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“We’re working on creating more sustainable mediums. Recently, we’ve started using perlite to root the iconic Tresco protea. It’s volcanic glass heated to 1000°C, but of course, it comes with its problems, too. It isn’t a renewable material and requires energy to create, so it’s an ongoing journey to find the most sustainable option. My next experiment will be with pine bark compost, so we shall see how that goes!” Emma speaks passionately about plant propagation, pollination and compost, and it is fascinating to watch her in her potting shed or one of the Victorian glasshouses – often accompanied by her canine companion, Inca the border terrier. One can’t help but imagine Augustus Smith in the same glasshouses many years ago, perhaps dreaming up similarly dynamic and cutting-edge plans for the garden. In Emma and her forwardthinking techniques, his legacy lives on. Whether she’s scouting the gardens for ripening seeds and plant pests, scanning the long grass for caterpillars, or inspecting the potting shed walls for moths, Emma is passionate about her contribution to improving the Tresco environment, determined that the gardens can be at the heart of change on the islands and beyond.
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By appointment: Hayle, Cornwall
Expressions of the sea
emilynixon.com
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Blockhouse Cottage Nestled below its iconic namesake and overlooking the silver sands of Green Porth, Blockhouse Cottage flaunts unbeatable views, romantic seclusion and indulgent inside-outside living. This light-filled, beach-front house is Tresco’s newest cottage, combining spectacular views with bright, spacious interiors by Studio Streeter. WORDS: Tom Matthews
I MAG E In the kitchen, dual-aspect floor-to-ceiling bifold doors frame uninterrupted ocean views across Old Grimsby Harbour; the perfect backdrop to the bespoke kitchen from Arnolds of Cornwall. Table: James Bowyer. Rug: Unnatural Flooring. Chair fabric: Jane Churchill. Stools: T R E S C O.C O.U K Nkuku. /S E AG ARD E NDesign. Lighting: Pinch
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From afar, you’ll notice little difference; the cottage’s form is based heavily on the former terraced houses it replaces, albeit with beautiful granite facing to replace the old pebbledash. Sadly, the old cottages had become untenable for our islanders, but the rebuilding of Blockhouse has enabled us to create beautiful new, eco-friendly islander homes at New Grimsby. Back at Blockhouse, sand-between-the-toes barefoot luxury, direct beach access, and intoxicating ocean views combine with a KLAFS spa, private yoga and Pilates studio, separate annexe and a spacious private garden to create an unforgettable escape. The elegant, open-plan kitchen and dining space features a majestic vaulted ceiling and a bespoke kitchen, hand-crafted in Cornwall and filled with natural textures. Patinated copper splashbacks and sinks blend with the solid reclaimed sawn oak cabinets and a centrepiece pippy oak table created by James Bowyer. On a summer evening, guests can spill out through the kitchen’s dual-aspect floor-to-ceiling bifold doors to the front garden with its mesmerising ocean views or the back garden to catch the last of the
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sun’s rays around the outdoor kitchen and bespoke built-in barbecue. Upstairs, the spacious drawing room combines generous social spaces with cosy corners just made for curling up with a good book. Large windows grant the room an airy feel and stunning ocean views, though in the winter, you might prefer to draw the curtains and curl up with a good book by the fire if a winter storm is flinging salt spray against the windows. Soaking up those same sea views from the first floor is the main bedroom, a true sanctuary featuring doubleaspect sea view balconies, a four-poster bed, mini bar, fabrics from Nina Campbell and aboriginal art by Mulkun Wirrpanda. The separate dressing room leads onto the ensuite bathroom with its steam shower and Verdigris Green Copper Boat Bath, both enjoying uninterrupted ocean views. Four other bedrooms, split over the cottage’s two floors, feature sumptuous steam showers and luxurious tubs, direct garden access and a sunny, airy reading room. There’s also a cosy snug with hideaway bunks, making the perfect retreat with its cinematic TV and lavish corner sofa.
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I MAG E S Unbeatable views, romantic seclusion and a historic beachfront setting combine with indulgent inside-outside living at Blockhouse Cottage.
Above
Cosy corners with bespoke joinery blend with lavish interiors to create a unique interior inspired by its surroundings. Fabrics: Penny Morrison & Colefax and Fowler. Art: Imogen Bone. Mirror: Graham and Green.
Right
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BLOCKHOUSE is available to rent throughout the year, from £5,775 per week, sleeping up to 14 people, including the separate annexe.
tresco.co.uk/blockhouse
SLEEPS up to 14 people BEDROOMS 7 Main cottage and separate one-bedroom annexe Yoga & Pilates studio and KLAFS spa
One of the cottage’s standout features is just across the rear courtyard garden. Hidden behind a sliding screen designed by artist Holly Woodman is a KLAFSdesigned spa featuring a Marinace Verde Brazilian granite steam room and a sumptuous sauna with infrared seats. A pretty granite outbuilding houses the cottage’s private yoga and Pilates studio, complete with a mini kitchen and featuring a BASI Pilates machine. French doors and billowing curtains lend an airy feel. This soulful space is perfect for creative pursuits or peaceful practice, followed by salutations on the yoga deck and private lawn.
Outdoor kitchen, BBQ, firepits and direct beach access
Along a winding path sits a discreet and self-contained private annexe, its low-slung form based on a traditional Scillonian gig shed and featuring accommodation perfect for friends or older children seeking independence, providing privacy while remaining close at hand. The entire garden is surrounded by subtropical planting designed by Abbey Garden Curator Mike Nelhams with the backdrop of the beautiful cottage, its walls hewn from local granite. Magnificent sea views abound, but if views alone are not enough, meander down the steps through the marram grass to the white sands and turquoise waters waiting below. Tresco life doesn’t get better than this.
I MAG E S (LE F T ) The perfect cosy space, the snug features hideaway bunks, a cinematic TV and lavish corner sofa, framed by GP & J Baker’s signature ferns curtains reminiscent of the Abbey Drive and a generous ottoman from Christopher Farr. Top
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The main bedroom is a spacious retreat with dual aspect balconies enjoying uninterrupted sea views. Fabrics from Manuel Canovas Freida and Nina Campbell and artwork from Mulkum Wirrpanda Dhuwa offset the bed by The Original Bed Co, bedside tables by Alfred Newall and dressing table by Loaf, while the room is crowned by the iconic Paolo Moschino pendant. Bottom
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King of the Shells
If you wandered along the Tresco coast many years ago, you may have crossed paths with a young man combing the beaches. Slight in stature and with a bucket full of shells in hand, he would have greeted you with a warm smile. WORDS: Agnes Chapman Wills
More than half a century later, Pete Locke has finally shared what he was up to on the island shores all those years ago. Inspired by the shells that wash up on Tresco, Pete spent hours sifting through the sands, looking for glistening treasures to take home. He then set out to do something magical with them. Sitting in his workshop, he made intricate wooden frames, covered them in wooden panels, and slowly and painstakingly glued on rows and rows of shells. In time, he emerged from his shed, weary yet satisfied, like a true inventor. On his workbench was the result.
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What strikes you when looking at Pete’s creations is their distinct uniformity; the shells are all the same shade and species, and the many hours spent on the beach are apparent. With the roofs and walls made up of flat periwinkles and the poetically-named necklace shell, and the tiny doors and windows covered in cowries, it is evident that each house is a product of meticulous beach combing, a pastime still enjoyed by many across the islands today (cowries being the most sought-after prize, of course). You can’t help but wonder about the origins of the craft when admiring Pete’s shell village. In the 17th century, shell craft was first recorded. Due to a growing fascination with the natural world, it became a pastime that brought the mysterious and romanticised world of the sea into the home. Initially a craft dominated by women in the domestic space, it later became a more grandiose hobby. Decadent shell grottos became an eccentric addition to many homesteads; the forerunners to Lucy Dorrien-Smith’s shell grotto and mosaic that brighten the Abbey Garden and Ruin. In the mid-19th century, shell craft became the chosen pastime of nomadic ocean dwellers. Sailors would adorn wooden hinged boxes with shells from their travels and carry their creations home to their loved one; it became known as a sailor’s valentine. Pete’s shell houses are just this: a love letter to his island home. Born in North End cottage in June 1931, Pete is Tresco through and through. His daily chore as a young boy was going down the hill to the well, and he talks fondly of his school years, describing how he would head to the farm to collect milk pails for himself and his friends. After leaving school at 14, he became something of an island entrepreneur, picking up work wherever possible. He once earned a shilling delivering telegrams across the island and an extra sixpence for taking the milk from the dairy to the Abbey. Eventually, Pete got an apprenticeship as a carpenter. It would go on to be his life’s work, a career of some 51 years. As a young man, Pete was called up for National Service for two years and was in Germany for 18 months. Despite the distance he traversed land and crystal-clear waters twice during wartime, the
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From little Tresco cottages to St Nicholas Church, Tresco School and the Island Hotel, Pete had made a microcosm of life on Tresco, each landmark glistening in the sun thanks to the iridescent shells that adorn it.
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thought of being elsewhere for Christmas was too hard to bear. After the war, on returning to Tresco, one of Pete’s first jobs in the carpenter’s workshop was picking shrapnel out of bombdamaged wood to enable it to go through the planer. At 92, Pete is as sprightly as ever and is known across Tresco for his active life. He is famous for his home-brewed (and particularly strong) apple wine; he has been seen – far too recently – on top of his shed carrying out roof repairs; he always has a plentiful supply of tomatoes growing in his greenhouse; and – perhaps most importantly – he hasn’t ruled out making more shell houses, although he’s not sure if he’s got the patience these days! Whilst Pete has his own identity, more often than not, he is known as part of a rather iconic island duo. Pete and Rose have been married for 45 years, and both worked for the estate. Today, they can be found enjoying the island together, and if you wander along the front, you can often spot them on a bench overlooking the sea. Pete earnestly says, “Rose has made the rest of my life.” Pete’s modesty is the chief reason his shell creations have been hidden in his shed all these years, and their journey to fame is thanks to the island community. Neighbour Ruth Featherstone saw the models glistening in Pete’s shed and insisted that his beautiful work be showcased. With the help of her family, she landscaped and planted the garden that now surrounds Pete’s mini-metropolis. Islanders, as well as visitors, have since marvelled at the shell village, and they’ve attracted attention from further afield, too. In truth, Pete has become something of a celebrity, with BBC Spotlight even running a feature on the King of the Shells. So, if you are strolling along the seafront towards the quay and have a spare moment, take a turn before the boatyard and marvel at Tresco’s shell village. Witnessing it ignites a curious combination of nostalgia and a relishing of the island community we so cherish today. The display has also become an opportunity to raise money for The Island Haven – a charity close to the island’s heart, fundraising to build a home for islanders undergoing mainland medical treatment. If you are passing, maybe pop a donation in the bucket; perhaps it will encourage Pete to head back to the Tresco shores and sift through the sand once more…
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We follow one family as they discover that a day on Tresco is what holiday dreams are made of – no matter your age…
United in delight
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10 :30AM TRESCO ABBE Y GARDEN Why is it that no matter where we go, the first stop is always a café? With the children fuelled up on pastries, it’s over the blue bridge, past the squirrels enjoying their own breakfast and into the garden. It truly is a world in a garden. We almost lose the kids as they run wild somewhere between South Africa and New Zealand…
12PM THE RUIN BE ACH CAFÉ Time to refuel again – and it doesn’t get better than this. Pizzas and pasta; cocktails and that view from the terrace. And nobody to judge if you decide not to share your sharing plate…
1:30 PM TRESCO SAILING CENTRE I learned to sail here more years ago than I care to remember. Today, I get to watch my own children take to the water from the same beach. 36 | 2024 YEARBOOK
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“We have discovered a place so close to our ideal as to have united three generations in delight…” – The Financial Times’ Julian Allason on a family visit to Tresco.
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2:30 PM R AVEN ’ S PORTH The adventurers return. Time for some serious sandcastle building. Oh, and a tub of Troytown ice cream.
3:30 PM BLOCKHOUSE BE ACH There’s always time for one last beach…
It’s easy to visit for a day from the mainland or just another island. 1:30 PM TRESCO SAILING CENTRE
For daytrip tips and inspiration TRESCO.CO.UK /DAY TRIPS
As the instructor sets sail, their grins span from ear to ear, and they’re off. Time for a cocktail on the terrace.
For sailing tuition and watersports hire SAILINGSCILLY.CO.UK
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Rooted in the island We’re waiting in The New Inn for Steve Parkes to arrive. I cycled past him twenty minutes earlier, chatting to some regular guests near the Island Office, so I’m not surprised he’s running late. “Sorry,” says his son Jamie with a grin. “Nothing to be sorry for,” I laugh. “He’s a popular chap!”
WORDS: Tom Matthews
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Steve walks in and is immediately greeted by another group. Jamie and I laugh. Hands are shaken, and introductions are made. “Oh, you must meet Steve,” says the regular to her guests. As we’d driven around the island in their little Kubota a few days earlier, Steve and Jamie had waved at nearly every group of visitors, stopping now and then to exchange greetings with old friends. It’s a wonder this father-and-son team can get any work done. Yet, look around the island; every path, hedgerow, tree and trail bears witness to their passion, dedication and hard graft. “People often ask what we actually do,” says Jamie. “Besides killing time until 5 o’clock to come here for a beer,” laughs Steve. Anyone on Tresco knows this couldn’t be further from the truth. When I see Steve on my morning walk to work, I’m always acutely aware he’s probably already done half a day’s work before I’ve even left the house. “It’s quite simple,” continues Jamie. “I tell them that we look after all the land that’s not the Abbey Garden, the cottage gardens or the farm. It keeps us busy, and there’s always something to be done.” Approach Scilly from the air and Tresco stands out not only for the endless white sands of the eastern fringe but for its woodlands, covering a tenth of the island, as well as rolling downs and heathland. This father-and-son team look after it all. “It does make you proud when you fly over the island,” says Steve.
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“You look down and think, ‘Yeah, good job.’” Not that Steve flies over often. Does he ever take a holiday, I ask? Jamie laughs. “Not really,” Steve replies. “I’m very lucky to live in a place I love and have a job I genuinely enjoy. Not many people can say that these days. I’m 66 in a month, but I won’t retire. What would I do? Why would I want to be anywhere else? It’s pretty jammy!” Steve’s rare days off are spent pottering around Scilly’s crystalclear waters in his boat, accompanied by his wife, Gallery Tresco Manager Anna. Whether heading off to the Eastern Isles or acting as safety boat and escort for Anna’s epic 60th birthday sea swim circumnavigation of Tresco, the precious little downtime Steve gets is usually spent messing about in boats. It’s a passion shared by his son Jamie, a proud island-born lad who has followed in his father’s footsteps as a keen boatman, ‘Czar boy’ gig rower (“retired,” he insists), captain of Tresco and Bryher Cricket Club and – of course – gamekeeper and woodsman. “It means a lot to me, working alongside Dad,” he says. “I’ve learned everything I know from watching him and following his lead. I never enjoyed school, sitting in a classroom and learning. I’ve been away and done courses and qualifications in arboriculture and that sort of thing, but the fundamentals of what we do day to day were learned on the job. “I’m really lucky that the Estate and the family care so much about
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the land and that I was able to follow in Dad’s footsteps.” “And we keep learning every day,” chips in Steve. “Quite often now, I defer to him. I’ll stand there and say, ‘Right, how are we going to tackle this one, Jame? It’s on you!’” He laughs, but I sense he’s not entirely joking. Steve’s own story resembles Jamie’s – albeit with a slightly more mischievous start; truly, it was poacher turned gamekeeper. “Me and my mate Roger Handy used to nip around the island with our air rifles as teenagers,” recalls Steve. “One day, we saw the gamekeeper, Peter, coming up the garden path and thought we were really for it, but it turns out he was coming to offer me a job. We were pretty relieved!” Steve started helping Peter after school and at weekends, working with a progression of gamekeepers to gain experience. Still, the emphasis of the role was already changing. “Robert Dorrien-Smith took me under his wing,” says Steve. “He’s always believed in the island having the right balance – keeping it accessible for everyone to enjoy and making sure nature can thrive. He wanted to improve the woodlands to manage the natural environment of the island better. He comes up with the plan, and I make it happen. It’s a good team.” Steve was sent on a sixth-form course in Newquay and a tree surgery course at the specialist Merrist Wood College in Surrey. However, just as his son would find decades on, the most valuable experience was on the job. “Back on the island, I learnt a lot from a chap called Pip Tomkins,” recalls Steve. “He did a lot of the original tree work here. Sadly, he passed away recently, and I miss him. He taught me so much.” Over the decades, vast swathes of Tresco’s woodlands have been replanted and enhanced. As old trees have died or been felled by winter storms, new trees have been planted in their place, maintaining the shelterbelt so vital to the success of Tresco Abbey Garden. “Some trees are well over a hundred years old – huge macrocarpa and Monterey pines,” says Steve. “There’s a beautiful old tree up above the Abbey. I remember standing on the root plate during a northerly blow decades back, and the ground was actually lifting. “That’s why it’s so important to manage the woodlands. Sometimes, taking the top out or removing a few branches might look destructive, but it means you can save the whole tree. “Thinning the woodland also lets light through to the forest floor, helping younger trees, wildflowers and undergrowth thrive, which helps the butterflies and bugs. You’re giving nature a helping hand.” Nothing is wasted. Timber from the woodland management is used on-island for everything from beautiful hand-carved benches to building cladding. Once the father and son start pointing it out, it’s surprising how much of the island is formed from the fruits of their labour.
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“The Ruin pizza oven is the one people don’t think about,” says Jamie. “I feel like I spend half my winter splitting logs at our shed down near Pentle, and half my summer delivering logs down to The Ruin! Knowing I’ve worked for it makes those pizzas taste even sweeter!” The land management extends well beyond the woodlands. One of Jamie’s main jobs each year is to flail the hedgerows around the island, beating back the bracken that would otherwise quickly engulf roads, paths and delicate heathland. Often, this work is done late on a summer’s evening to cause as little disruption as possible. “It’s a job that has to be done,” says Jamie. “We’ve got a lot of invasive species – particularly the bracken and rhododendron – and without flailing, parts of the island would soon become completely overwhelmed, inaccessible for guests and in a worse state for nature.”
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Steve agrees. “People talk about ‘rewilding,’ but really, it’s not a new idea. It’s good land management, common sense. I think of it like a chequerboard – we’ve got pasture and thistles, woodland and heather, peat and reedbeds. You have areas that are maintained so the island can function, and you have spaces left for nature to thrive. “It doesn’t have to be a battle between wild and managed landscapes; they can coexist, and Tresco is proof of that.” “The island just has something about it,” agrees Jamie. “Having grown up here, it’s easy to lose sight of that. It’s when I get away for a few days and then come back to the island that I really notice how special this place is, and I’m proud of the part Dad and I play in that. “It’s more than a job; it matters.”
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An island tonic
Westward Farm sits at the very tip of the British Isles. Beyond the windswept heathland of Wingletang Down is nothing but jagged rocks, the Bishop Rock Lighthouse and the open ocean. It’s one of the wildest places in Britain. Little grows there except heather and gorse. WORDS: Tom Matthews
Yet, step through a gap in the high hedges, and immediately, you’re among myriad fields – a patchwork of pink pelargoniums, lines of lavender and close-cropped chamomile. “Sorry,” I say, realising I’m standing on a patch of chamomile as its herbal aroma fills the air. “Oh, don’t worry,” replies farmer Aiden Hicks. “It helps them grow. They’re pretty hardy; it’s why they do so well here!” Aiden is the seventh generation of youngest sons to take on the family farm – and he believes there were several generations before that. “It’s been in the family for a few centuries at least,” he says casually. He now runs the farm alongside his wife, Grace and three children, Joss, Thea and three-year-old Lana, who trots happily along behind us as we tour the fields. The key to Westward Farm’s longevity is all around us, in the tall hedges, the crops and even the bright yellow flowers of the gorse on the heathland beyond. Adaptability, diversification and working with nature. In short, an island state of mind. “The farm started growing early potatoes, but when that tailed off, they planted hedges and started growing flowers,” says Aiden.
“When that declined, Mum, who had always been interested in aromatherapy, realised the sheltered fields would be perfect for growing plants for essential oils for soaps and shower gels. “They also planted apple trees to produce juice and cyder, had a sizeable beef herd and a huge flock of hens, so not all our eggs were in one basket – literally.” However, when Aiden became seriously ill, he was forced to consider a path that would be less physically demanding. “Mum had often added a sprig of rose geranium to her G&T, saying it would make a great gin flavouring. We knew a lot about botanicals and essential oils, and nobody else on Scilly was producing gin, so I started looking into the paperwork required. It was just as well I was laid up ill; I’d never have had the patience or time for it otherwise,” he laughs. “We thought it would just be another little project, but it quickly became our main income. I should’ve listened to Mum years ago!” Adaptability, diversification and working with nature. Everything starts with Scilly Gin – a vibrant, fresh gin, vapour-
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The plants are distilled into an intense botanical spirit, which is then mixed with Scilly gin to create the famous iconic flavours. 50 | 2024 YEARBOOK
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infused with botanicals from Java and Africa and coriander and angelica root from Westward Farm’s fields. The botanicals are vapour-infused rather than steeped, creating a lighter, fresher flavour – a decision made only after exhaustive market research! The gin is made in tiny batches of just 28 bottles at a time from the farm’s two tiny 25-litre stills. In peak season, these often run twice daily, seven days a week. Scilly Gin may be “the original,” but Westward Farm is perhaps best known for its gins that combine this fine spirit with island-grown botanicals and essential oils. From the rose geranium and chamomile originally grown for soaps and toiletries to the wild gorse flowers from Wingletang Downs, their gins are rooted in their surroundings. Adaptability, diversification and working with nature. “We pick our botanicals and plants throughout the year when each is at its best,” explains Aiden. “We harvest rose geranium in late summer when it’s in full bloom; the gorse flowers we harvest in the mornings of early summer when they’re at their freshest. Plus, the plant is softer at that time of year, so you get more flowers for the number of prickles!” The plants are distilled into an intense botanical spirit, which is then mixed with Scilly gin to create the famous iconic flavours.
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Aiden’s favourite ingredient is the farm’s wildflower honey, which brings back fond memories of his island upbringing. “The best time of year was always when Dad started extracting honey; we’d always be hovering around waiting to nab a bit of honeycomb when he wasn’t looking.” As we’re talking, Aiden and Grace’s three-year-old daughter, Lana, carries on that particular family tradition. The farm currently has around half a dozen hives; any more and the island’s forage might not be sufficient, and all the hives would suffer. “It’s important for us to stay true to what’s naturally thriving on the islands and not force things,” says Aiden. “One year, we had a poor honey yield and couldn’t take any from the bees. “Our 28-mile gin recipe changes depending on what’s available, so while people were disappointed that we had no Honey and Orange gin, we developed Chamomile and Elderberry, as those plants had thrived that year. As it turns out, it was a really popular flavour and one we’ve kept up!” Adaptability, diversification and working with nature. As a rule, Aiden and Grace are passionate about ensuring the main flavour in every gin is from their own fields or surrounding hedgerows. However, when we approached them to craft a Tresco Abbey Garden gin, they were quite happy to bend the rules. “We asked the gardeners for any plants they thought might work in a gin,” recalls Aiden. “Without skipping a beat, the answer came back: coleonema. As soon as we smelt its piney, citrusy aroma, we knew it would work. “It grows all over the Abbey Garden, but it’s native to South Africa, where it’s used in traditional medicine and aromatherapy for its antioxidant properties. “It was really exciting having such a strong plant as a starting point, and finding botanicals to balance it, rather than working the other way round and adding it to a finished gin.” Combining this beautifully citrusy fragrant vagrant of the Abbey Garden with grains of paradise, kaffir lime, and the essential gin botanicals gives this unique gin an exceptional, exotic taste. Let's raise a glass to Westward Farm, and to working with nature...
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TRESCO ABBEY GARDEN GIN Crafted by the Hicks family of Westward Farm and distilled with the aromatic flavour of the South African confetti bush from the terraces of the Abbey Garden, this is a sophisticated and complex gin with a quite exceptional taste. Order a bottle (or two): tresco.co.uk/shop Serving suggestion: Pair with a quality tonic or enjoy in our signature Trescotini while drinking in the view from The Ruin terrace.
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The Trescotini I NG RE DI E NT S
M E THOD
60ml Tresco Abbey Garden gin 10ml Noilly Prat Lemon peel Coleonema sprig
ONE
Cool a Martini glass with ice
T WO
Add Tresco Abbey Garden gin and Martini to shaker
THREE
Shake and fine-strain into the cooled Martini glass
FOUR
Garnish with a twist of lemon peel and a coleonema sprig
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Enjoy Tresco’s signature cocktail whilst taking in the view from the terrace at The Ruin
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The Crab Shack It’s a remarkably simple recipe. An old stone barn. Scrubbed wooden tables and shared benches. Crab caught just a stone’s throw away by fishermen with the local seas coursing through their veins. RE- OPENING E ARLY SUMMER 2024 To book your bench, call 01720 422947 or visit hellbay.co.uk
There’s no ceremony here. The menu is small enough to be written on a blackboard on the wall. When the produce is this perfect, you want to present it with minimal fuss, distraction and pretence – and you don’t want to let a single morsel go to waste. We caught up with Hell Bay Head Chef Richard Kearsley and persuaded him to share his secrets to getting the most from The Crab Shack…
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“Good evening. Let me swap that jacket for an apron.” It may not be a usual greeting at a restaurant, but at The Crab Shack, it’s practically mandatory. Telegraph columnist, chef and food writer Xanthe Clay once described The Crab Shack as “food worth getting your hands dirty for” – and it soon becomes clear why. This is Pick Your Own – Scilly style. The copper cataplana arrives, overflowing with juicy crab bathed in fragrant butter. The chef has done the hard bit for you, cutting the carapace in half for easy access, but from there, it’s down to you and the set of tools before you. Yes, there’s a knife and fork, but those in the know use the claw cracker, crab pick and even the crispy fries to make sure they get every last ounce of juicy, salty-sweet crab meat. According to Mark Pender, the best tool is the blunt end of a teaspoon – but we’ll leave that to the real experts. The claws are filled with the sweetest white meat. The brown crab in the head is full of flavour. The legs and joints may look spindly, but they’re filled with meat that tastes all the better for knowing you’ve worked for it. Cracking.
We source our crab from the Pender family of Bryher’s Island Fish. Penders have fished the waters of Scilly as far back as they can trace, and today, three generations of the family continue that proud tradition. Father and son Mike and Mark Pender set sail each day in the Emerald Dawn, hand-built by Mike over four decades ago, and Dorothy Ethel, named after Mark’s grandmothers. They’re often joined by 23-year-old Shamus Pender-Frazer and his father Andy in their boat Ma Vie. Each day, after the family has hauled their pots from Bishop Rock to the Eastern Isles, we collect their catch in our Land Rover and trundle it down to The Crab Shack. If the evening’s diners have a particularly hearty appetite, it’s not unheard of for Mark to turn up in his oilskins with a couple more crabs for the pot. It doesn’t get fresher than that… As well as supplying The Crab Shack, the Penders’ produce can be purchased direct from the Island Fish shop near Bryher’s Bar quay. To collect it from the fishermen themselves, order for delivery to New Grimsby Quay by calling 01720 423880.
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Tresco Artist: Imogen Bone
I first discovered the Isles of Scilly when I signed up to take part in the gig rowing world championships. I was studying at Falmouth College of Art when our novice crew headed to the islands. We came in second to last place and loved every minute of it. A few years later, I returned for another gig weekend and ended up staying for ten years! The islands had caught me. I was captivated by the sparkling white sand that squeaked as you walked, the colours of the water and the feeling of freedom. I relished my acceptance into this island community. I enjoyed the comical, friendly, inter-island rivalry that seemed part and parcel of living here. Having a studio on St Mary’s, my allegiance was there; Tresco was a place to go boating to, visiting only for a few hours. I got to know the island only through working with Gallery Tresco. Gallery Manager Anna Parkes has been a great support, understanding the ebb and flow of creativity and working with me to best showcase my work of Tresco. Anna allowed me the time and space to explore and create. Through this, my love of Tresco blossomed. The island has a varied landscape that accentuates any weather; the north of the island, with the heathland and granite, holds firm against the hostile storms that smash against the rocks, seeming all the more fierce with their solid resistance. The sheltered bays of the east are ever more tranquil in contrast on those clear, calm days. The clarity of colour here is very apparent. Being islands, the light reflecting from the surrounding water up into the sky has a cool brightness, so different to mainland colours that have a warmer hue to the atmosphere. It is a curious paradox that the minimal land mass here gives me an astonishing feeling of space that I particularly enjoy. These low-level islands only punctuate the horizon, a line of Morse code in the vastness of sea and sky. As much as the islands are about space, they are also about the
detail. Any avid beachcomber or rock-pooler would be delighted with the finds available. I am partial to seeking out a cowrie or two and have spent many an hour head down, slowly strolling along the strand line, addicted to treasure hunting. Knowing the island in this intimate way plays a part in the interpretation onto canvas; the more familiar the place, the more naturally it flows. I can spend hours just looking at all the silvers and greens of the foliage in the gardens or the blues, greys and purples of the ever-changing sky. The colours of Scilly are integral to who I am now. Painting outside is about information gathering for me; it is an immediate response to landscape documented through loose paint and crayons on paper. Often, these have an instant energy: they look haphazard, interrupted and often inaccurate. Sometimes, notes are scribbled alongside if weather makes keeping the image on the page hard. My works on canvas are then made in the studio; influenced by the wild scrawls I made on location, the canvases are more of a contemplation, a play between the geographical accuracy and the wilder emotional response – my memories of the day woven through the work. I have been returning to Tresco in recent years as a tutor with Newlyn School of Art, a course where I thrive on sharing this island with the students. Over four days, we explore Tresco, switching locations as weather and tide dictate. An optional but thoroughly encouraged post-class dip in the sea or spa to refresh the mind is delightful before we return to The New Inn to feast and digest the day. Living on the mainland now, I try to return to the islands at least twice a year. I am still rowing and more competitive than ever. These escapes back to Scilly give me a fundamental reset, a boost of inspiration and a reminder of how much a place can influence your life. Part of me will always feel like an island girl.
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Imogen Bone is one of Gallery Tresco’s most-featured artists. You can also join her on the Tresco Painting Breaks, led by tutors including Imogen from the Newlyn School of Art. See tresco.co.uk
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TH E ART OF TR AN S FORMATION
Merrick, Mincarlo and Maiden Bower; Puffin, Tern and Kittiwake. Three cottages are named after rugged granite rocks or islets jutting jaggedly from Scillonian seas; three are named after gentle and elegant seabirds that wheel in the skies above. WORDS: Agnes Chapman Wills
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So far, so different – but all have in common a remarkable transformation over the last winter, just some of the work taking place across the island as we work through our plan to refresh and reinvigorate our traditional cottages. Alongside new bathrooms, a complete redecoration, fresh furniture and fabrics, there was an artistic revolution, too – and not only in these cottages. Virtually every wall throughout Tresco’s cottages, restaurants, spa and public spaces is home to original artwork, much depicting the islands or wider southwest seascapes. It has often been described as an island-wide art gallery, and it’s easy to see why. From the seascapes of Richard Pearce to the vast canvases of Kathy Todd, between the abstract creations of Janet Lynch and the breathtaking landscapes of Kurt Jackson, the Tresco art collection is extensive and eclectic. The Dorrien-Smiths have honed the anthology over decades. It is housed at The New Inn, Hell Bay, across 100 cottages and within the public spaces on Tresco. Ensuring that every canvas, board and print is partnered with its perfect home is Gallery Tresco Curator Anna Parkes. “Each winter – after any practical work has taken place – I go into the cottages and look at the curtains, the shade of the sofa, the amount of light, and the general feel of the space. “From there, I choose art that will tone in with these factors and complement them. It is art for interiors, so it is not all about making the paintings shout but about achieving a cohesive look so that the whole room blends together. We want guests to walk in and feel at ease.” Kittiwake, Tern, Puffin, Maiden Bower, Mincarlo and Merrick were the cottages that underwent the most work last winter. As such, Anna felt they deserved a whole new set of art. The cottages were stripped of their old pieces before the work began. Anna set out to find new canvases from elsewhere on the island that would make a difference. “I wanted to give each house a total makeover so that it was completely refreshed on top of the new furnishings and paintwork. I wanted guests who’d stayed there for the past five years to return on year six and be stunned.” While the six cottages were her initial focus, many other properties across the island were given a fresh coat of paint and new furnishings, too. Anna took on the massive task of replacing the art in each one, visiting over 40 cottages in total. Paintings that were once at The New Inn or Hell Bay and had ended up in storage reappeared, and Anna found new walls for them to hang on. “I’d go into a room and decide what needed to come out; from there, it was a case of looking at the collection I had in storage and working out what would fit in. It was a huge domino effect and a great excuse to shake up the island art collection.” As the gradual renovation of our cottages continues over the next few years, don’t forget to look beyond new tiles, fabrics and furniture to truly notice the art of transformation.
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‘The Island Light’ John Bampfield
Much of the art featured in our cottages can be purchased. To find out if your favourite piece is available to take home, pop in to see Anna at Gallery Tresco. tresco.co.uk/gallery 63 | 2024 YEARBOOK
‘Top Terrace’ Tom Leaper
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‘Good morning Ruin’ Iona Sanders
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The Lobsterpottery
Zero-plastic, zero-emissions lobster fishing on St Agnes WORDS: Tom Matthews
I’m sure the signs surrounding Jof Hicks’ workshop overlooking Periglis Bay on St Agnes are right; I just can’t work out what that use could possibly be. There are old bicycle wheels and barbecues, furniture and wooden pallets, stock pots and boats of every shape and size. However, among the piles of what some might ungenerously describe as junk are several items of sheer beauty: lovingly crafted traditional withy inkwell lobster pots. “I’ve made lobster pots from all sorts of things,” explains Jof. “I built a prototype this season from pallet wood and even made some using old bicycle rims from Tresco a few years back. “Still, no matter how clever I think I am at designing alternatives and improvements, I just keep coming back to the lobster pots woven from willow and tamarisk. It’s centuries-old technology, but withy pots have positive proven attributes in so many ways.” Another wooden sign catches my eye. ‘Lobster Lobster Lobster – caught with totally entirely completely zero-plastic fishing gear by sail and oar.’ The sign sums up Jof’s commercial lobster fishing research project: an artisan micro-fishery that preserves traditional lobster pot-making techniques alongside developing experimental lowerimpact fishing materials and methods. St Agnes local Jof left the islands after school to train as an industrial designer at the Glasgow School of Art before working in London and San Francisco, among other places. Eventually, though, as for so many islanders, the call of Scilly drew him back. “I’ve always been interested in appropriate technologies, local
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crafts, local materials and what can be made from reclaimed and repurposed materials. How better to explore that when I returned to Scilly than with lobster pots?” Throughout the last half of the twentieth century, withy pot making was replaced by cheaper, more durable, mass-produced pots, and the craft was in danger of dying out. Indeed, withy potmaking is still on the Heritage Craft Endangered List. Soon after his return to the islands, Jof was delighted to discover that St Mary’s fisherman Brian Richards was still busy making substantial numbers of withy lobster pots outside his workshop every winter, just as Jof recalled from his school days. Brian was only too pleased to have such an enthusiastic student. “Brian taught me everything I know, and I’ve still got the three pots I made over that time 25 years ago,” says Jof, pointing to three beautifully intricate withy pots on the wall of his workshop inside St Agnes’ old lifeboat station at Periglis. “I didn’t fish the pots commercially at first; I planted some golden willow and made a few pots every other winter to keep the skill alive. A few people across the southwest still make pots, but it’s a very local craft; pots would have varied from village to village, region to region. My pots are half willow, half tamarisk; in other places, they might have been all willow or willow and hazel. It was important to me to try to keep the Scillonian pot alive.” Jof’s pots truly are rooted in the islands: their traditions, materials, and seasons. The spring and summer months are spent fishing as the willow and tamarisk grow. In the autumn, as Jof brings in the battered
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and broken pots, the wood ashore has lost its leaves, and the sap has stopped rising and is ready to be pollarded – a method of pruning that encourages fresh, usable annual growth. As winter storms lash the island, Jof can hole up in his workshop, weaving new pots. Come spring, as the willow buds and shoots, it’s time to start fishing the new pots, and the whole cycle begins again. The floor of his workshop is a thick carpet of discarded willow and tamarisk. “I seem to be slowly rising up over the years,” he jokes. His raw material comes from hedgerows across the islands, much within walking distance of his workshop. Jof also replanted and reinvigorated old withy and beds on St Mary’s with the support of the council and the Wildlife Trust and has tamarisk trees pollarded all around the island. Now he’s pointed it out, I’m amazed by just how often you pass by these innocuous-looking plants around the archipelago. “There’s quite a bit of nice tamarisk on Tresco that I occasionally help trim,” he says with a grin. “Some of the best is along the front at Old Grimsby. The story goes that St Martin’s fishermen used to row over under cover of darkness and steal it, so I’m just carrying on a tradition – only taking it to a different island! “My pots are woven entirely from Scillonian withy and tamarisk, but one day, I’d love to make the whole gear from locally sourced materials. I’m already experimenting with some promising materials from Tresco. Steve Parkes has found me some blocks of Monterey cypress for float trials, and Andrew Lawson has let me test some bamboo thinning from the Abbey Garden for daan buoy poles. “It would be fascinating to tap into the knowledge here to experiment with what could be grown on the island. Apparently,
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there’s a cork tree in the Abbey Garden that could provide material for floats, but it would need decades to grow into a harvestable crop. I even had an interesting chat with Kate Lawson the other day about trialling some varieties of bottle gourds that could be grown as floats. “Ropes are the challenge, but New Zealand flax is growing across the islands as an invasive species. It would be very time-consuming to process it into rope – but it could be done. One day…” In the meantime, Jof uses manila rope, with pressure and steamtreated black cork block for his floats. Higher-grade cork bark is prohibitively expensive, while reconstituted cork is bonded with – you guessed it – plastic. The cork Jof uses is bound together with its own natural resins. When his sign says ‘totally entirely completely zero plastic fishing gear,’ he means it. Even the tiny clip attaching the Rat Bag canvas material flag to the bamboo mast of his daan buoys is metal, not plastic. The pots are weighted with grooved stones from the beach held in place with wire or natural string – a technique wholly borrowed from the contraband caches of years gone by. “Everything I put into the ocean will just be compost in a few months,” says Jof. “It’s a very weird craft because you find yourself striving for perfection in something completely disposable. Give these pots six months bashing about in the ground seas off Agnes, and they’ll be smashed to pieces – but it doesn’t matter – they just become part of the ocean.” The problem of plastic pollution in our oceans makes Jof’s traditional craft increasingly relevant in the modern world. “There’s a real awareness now that what we put into the oceans will come back to haunt us,” he explains. “We’re not talking about
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or criticising small inshore fleets like here on Scilly. Our local fishing fleet naturally cares for the local marine environment; that’s their future and their children’s. The plastic gear they use is an inherited necessity, and they put a lot of time, skill and effort into minimising their environmental impact. “I’m trying to develop viable alternatives by using the traditional withy inkwell as a starting point that could, in time, have relevance beyond a small artisanal fishery like mine.” Many of Jof’s fishing friends and neighbours and the local and visiting community are already engaging in his project, wanting to learn the craft as well as pass on the knowledge of pot-growing, making and fishing. Over the next season, he hopes to trial hybrid prototype pots with other local fishermen. “There’s genuine interest from local fishermen; I guess growing a pot fits with the good old Scillonian tradition of not spending money unless you have to,” he laughs. “Anecdotally, people say the withy pots actually fish really well, particularly for some species. “I’ve got a few more years of experimentation and development, but ultimately, I’d like to see if there’s a practical way of scaling up some of these ideas to make a meaningful contribution to our inshore fleet. I’m under no illusion that what works for me as an artisanal micro-fishery might not work for the mainstream, but the industry probably has some challenges ahead with plastic and emissions issues. “If I look back in ten years and I’ve just been fishing in a very antiquated way for a decade, it will have been interesting – not to mention a lot of hard work – but not really what I set out to do.” Jof recently teamed up with IFCA – the Isles of Scilly’s Inshore Fisheries & Conservation Authority – for a DEFRA-funded two-year project with the University of Plymouth. The project will examine how different pots interact with the environment and consumer perceptions of zero-plastic, zero-carbon fishing and whether they are willing to engage in a conversation about the impact on price. “It can’t be right that you can buy a frozen lobster flown in from Nova Scotia for £2, can it?” questions Jof. “Yes, lobster caught with these methods could be more expensive, but it’s part of a conversation about the true cost of food. Fortunately, those conversations are happening more broadly now, so it’s at least on people’s minds. I find that Scilly’s visitors really care as much as us locals about this environment and are willing to engage in the conversation. It’s lovely to have the support of great chefs like Liam Caves at The New Inn, who have really taken my lobsters and done such wonderful things with them on the outdoor grill and in the kitchen.” Not that any cost will ever come close to genuinely reflecting the time, effort and care that goes into catching Jof’s lobsters in his sustainable, low-impact, plastic-free, sail-and-oar way. On the slipway beneath the old lifeboat station at Periglis is his fishing craft. It’s not what you’d expect; it’s an old Hobie Cat sailing catamaran, but not as you know it. There’s no mast, but in its place, Jof has attached a sliding seat and carbon fibre oars. “If I do a full circuit of all my pots, I probably row about seven or eight miles or more,” says Jof. “There’s something incredible about being out on the ocean, hauling handmade withy pots with no engine noise or fumes.” On a Friday night, after a hard week of fishing, Jof ‘rests’ by rowing as part of the men’s Shah gig crew. “I try my best after a week’s rowing,” he says. He’s being modest; they’ve won practically every race of the season.
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Rowing miles to lay, check and hand-haul the pots. Growing and harvesting local tamarisk and willow. Weaving and rigging pots that will only last one season. Trialling bamboo and Monterey cypress from the Abbey Garden and carving floats from cork. It’s the antithesis of our modern, fast-food culture – and that’s how it should be. The only fast thing about the whole process? “Cooking the lobster,” says Jof. “Don’t overcomplicate it. Chop the lobster in half. Baste with olive oil, lashings of butter, garlic, lemon juice, salt and pepper and whatever local hedgerow herbs you can forage – three-cornered leeks, fennel, mint... Shell side down on the barbecue or grill for a few minutes or until the flesh is white and bubbling and the shell is just charring. Watch the sunset, and enjoy. There’s nothing like it.” That’s fast food we can all get on board with…
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LOBSTER TALES
Lobster caught using Jof’s zero-plastic, zero-emissions methods is a regular on our menus and specials boards at The New Inn and The Ruin Beach Café. New Inn Head Chef Liam Caves is also beavering away on his summer 2024 Grill Night plans… If you’re visiting St Agnes, pop along to the Lobsterpottery at Periglis to purchase live lobster, buy a new or veteran-fished Scillonian withy pot, or learn more about the project. Follow on Instagram @jof.hicks
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FULL PAGE AD 210 x 264mm with 3 bleed on all sides Text safe zone 176 x 228mm
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#MyTresco TH E C U R I O U S CO I N C I D E N C E O F COA S TG UA R DS COT TAG E
If you ever find yourself sitting in a Tresco cottage and gazing out over the distant sea and sky, it may cross your mind that many others have done the same before you. The charm of the island is just this: the rich history behind every cottage, building, lane, beach and field. One such example is Coastguards Cottage, and in 2021 it was by strange coincidence that two people – from different chapters of the cottage’s life – discovered one another. Grace Walton was born on Tresco in 1938, just before the outbreak of the Second World War. The middle of three children, she lived with her family in one of the Cliff Cottages overlooking New Grimsby. Grace’s parents met on the islands. Her father spent summers fishing in the rich waters here, while her mother worked for the family of Major Arthur Dorrien-Smith in London and accompanied the family to Tresco during the summer months. After they put down roots together on Tresco, Grace’s father worked on the estate. It was a large working farm employing about 50 men, and 20 shire horses did the work that tractors do today. When Grace was three, the family moved to Coastguards Cottage, up on the hill beneath Dial Rocks. Grace has clear memories of a horse and cart moving their furniture along the bay and up the hill to their new home. Evenings were spent with her father out fishing, hauling crab and lobster pots and looking for basking sharks. Grace’s grandfather lived at Watch House and many happy hours were spent playing on the sand and in the shallows there as a child. “I went to the island school, which had nearly 30 children between the ages of five and 15,” she recalls. “We celebrated every May Day and Christmas with a concert at the school. The estate carpenters would push all the desks together and fix curtains to make the stage.” Weekends would see Grace at the Pavilion at The New Inn; a café serving cream teas by day but a local cinema by evening, popular with islanders who would visit to watch the pictures with friends. One such friend of Grace’s was a girl named Pat Williams, whose parents ran The New Inn; the two women are friends to this day. After school, Grace moved to St Mary’s as a mother’s help and then worked at St Mary’s Hospital before meeting a local lad and marrying. “Like the rest of my generation, we then had to leave the islands for jobs and the chance to buy our own homes,” she says. Nevertheless, Grace’s heart remained in Scilly and she has returned most years since.
So it was that, during a holiday on St Mary’s in 2021, Grace hopped on a boat to Tresco and wandered into the Flying Boat Café. It was here that she met Janey Houldsworth. “We fell into conversation,” says Janey. “I soon learnt of Grace’s history on Tresco. To my astonishment she had grown up in Coastguards – our timeshare cottage – so my chap Neil and I invited Grace to visit and were fascinated to hear about her childhood there. “Hearing her stories caused me to reflect on what Tresco has come to mean to me and my family over a period of six or so decades. Our histories even crossed over as, in the spring of 1956 when Grace’s family still lived in Coastguards, my newly-wed parents first visited. They came for the day from their St Mary’s B&B, walked around, picked wild flowers, stroked a baby donkey and fell in love with the island.” Janey’s parents then returned in the 1960s with their young family in tow. They stayed at the brand new Island Hotel, and Tresco fast became their “happy holiday island.” Subsequently, when six cottages were launched for timeshare in the 1980s, Janey opted for a June week in Hilltop. She’s never looked back, and her island connection has only grown since. “After my father died we sponsored one of the new bells for St Mary’s church in his name. On a still Tresco day I like to think I can hear bell number five – engraved ‘John’ – across the water on Crab Ledge – a favourite family barbecue spot.” After their chance meeting, Janey arranged for Grace and her husband Malcolm to stay a night in Coastguards. Grace had the great pleasure of sleeping in her childhood bedroom with the same window seat overlooking the sea. “Staying in the cottage brought back so many memories, and I couldn’t help thinking how much my Mum would have enjoyed the luxury that it has now,” she says. Despite this, Grace says that much has stayed the same. “The heart of Tresco could never change,” she says fondly. She is so grateful to Janey for giving her the opportunity to stay in her childhood dwelling, yet more grateful still to have once called Tresco home. In fact, some of her brother’s last words to her were, “Weren’t we lucky to live on Scilly?” and it is a sentiment that Grace shares deeply to this day.
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“I went to the island school, which had nearly 30 children between the ages of five and 15,” she recalls. “We celebrated every May Day and Christmas with a concert at the school. The estate carpenters would push all the desks together and fix curtains to make the stage.”
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30-year Tresco Islandshare
SG Sea Garden Cottage | FB Flying Boat Cottage Tresco Spa membership is included in all Islandshare weeks. Please note: dates are shown for guidance only and do not necessarily indicate the first year of occupation.
TRESCO ISL AND IS AN RCI GOLD CROWN RESORT
MON CHANGEOVER
Old Mill Band 8 / Sleeps 8-10
Seaspray
Bay House
Band 6 / Sleeps 6
Week 12
20 Mar 2024
£18,720
Week 39
20 Sep 2024
£32,020
Week 41
09 Oct 2024
£27,240
Week 43
18 Oct 2024
£32,020
Week 42
16 Oct 2024
£27,240
Smugglers
Week 20 Week 21
12 May 2025 20 May 2024
Curlew Week 12
Band 6 / Sleeps 6
18 Mar 2024
Pearl SG / Band 5 / Sleeps 4-6
£10,725
Week 39
25 Sept 2024
£44,265
Week 40
Band 6 / Sleeps 6 £35,295 £23,095 Band 6 / Sleeps 6
26 Sep 2025
£20,020
SATURDAY CHANGEOVER
Week 35
25 Aug 2025
£71,470
Thatch
Week 36
01 Sep 2025
£35,785
Week 12
Week 12
16 Mar 2024
£19,535
Week 13
23 Mar 2024
£19,535
Band 6 / Sleeps 6
20 Mar 2024
£12,870
Week 41
07 Oct 2024
£15,580
Pegasus FB / Band 7 / Sleeps 6
Week 42
14 Oct 2024
£15,580
Week 16
Week 43
21 Oct 2024
£15,580
Farmhouse Week 40
Band 9 / Sleeps 10
30 Sep 2024
£39,520
Flotsam SG / Band 7 / Sleeps 6-8 Week 16
15 Apr 2024
£38,655
16 Apr 2025
£30,345
Week 39 Week 42
Hilltop Week 43
£35, 905
£18,730
Week 12
Sail Loft Week 12
12 Oct 2024
Band 6 / Sleeps 6
24 Oct 2024
Week 43
Band 7 / Sleeps 8
£56,420
Starfish Band 7 / Sleeps 6-8)
£32,100
Green Band 5 / Sleeps 6 Merrick
21 Sep 2024
Friendship FB / Band 7 / Sleeps 6
Rockpool SG / Band 8 / Sleeps 6-8
£12,870
Band 7 / Sleeps 6-8
Week 42
TUESDAY CHANGEOVER 19 Mar 2024
School House
Sea Horse SG Band 7 / Sleeps 6-8
THURSDAY CHANGEOVER 16 Oct 2025
24 Oct 2024
£36,905 Band 8 / Sleeps 8
21 Mar 2024
£17,000
Tresco re-sales TUESDAY CHANGEOVER
Week 12
19 Mar 2024
£19,890
Tern Band 8 / Sleeps 8
Seagrass
SG / Band 7 / Sleeps 6-8
Week 20
14 May 2024
£36,570
Week 12
Week 36
03 Sep 2024 £63,475 30yrs
£46,465
Townshill
Week 21
21 May 2024
Phoenix FB / Band 7 / Sleeps 6 Week 43
22 Oct 2024
£32,100
Seagrass SG / Band 7 / Sleeps 6-8 Week 42
15 Oct 2024
Wigeon Week 12
19 Mar 2024
£36,905 Band 6 / Sleeps 6 £10,725
Week 12
21 Mar 2024
£25,385 Band 6 / Sleeps 6
21 Mar 2024
£15,895
FRIDAY CHANGEOVER
WEDNESDAY CHANGEOVER Pegasus
FB / Band 7 / Sleeps 6
Week 40
02 Oct 2024 £43,472 38yrs
Abalone SG / Band 11 / Sleeps 8-10
Old Mill
Band 8 / Sleeps 8-10
Week 20
10 May 2024
£54,160
Week 27
02 July 2024 £95,100 34yrs
Week 26
20 June 2025
£78,780
Heron Band 6 / Sleeps 6
THURSDAY CHANGEOVER
WEDNESDAY CHANGEOVER
Week 12
15 Mar 2024
£10,725
Friendship
Coastguards
Week 13
22 Mar 2024
£10,725
Week 40
Band 8 / Sleeps 8
Week 12
20 Mar 2024
£17,000
Kittiwake
Week 35
27 Aug 2025
£113,395
Week 13
Week 43
23 Oct 2024
£24,750
Band 8 / Sleeps 8
22 Mar 2024
Rowesfield
£25,385 Band 6 / Sleeps 6
Coral SG / Band 7 / Sleeps 6-8
Week 42
11 Oct 2024
£20,000
Week 19
Week 43
18 Oct 2024
£20,000
08 May 2024
Dolphin Cottage
£40,440 Band 5 / Sleeps 6
Sandpiper
Band 6 / Sleeps 6
Week 23
05 Jun 2024
£30,030
Week 13
22 Mar 2024
Week 41
09 Oct 2024
£18,730
Week 14
29 Mar 2024
£14,745
Band 2 / Sleeps 4
Week 20
10 May 2024
£19,665
£7,770
Week 42
11 Oct 2024
£15,580
Week 43
18 Oct 2024
£15,580
Gadwall Week 12
20 Mar 2024
We’ve weathered the last 35 years protecting and growing our clients’ wealth as if it were our own.
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Tern Week 13
FB / Band 7 / Sleeps 6 03 Oct 2024
£33,176 29yrs
Band 8 / Sleeps 8 28 Mar 2024
£27,923 33yrs
A trusted partner now, in the future and for generations to come.
FRIDAY CHANGEOVER Sandpiper Week 40
Band 6 / Sleeps 6 27 Sep 2024
£7,240 13yrs
£10,725
Please contact the Islandshare office on +44 (0)1720 424111 or email islandshare@tresco.co.uk for further details.
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