2015 YEARBOOK
OUR VIEWS ARE CLEAR
2015 YEARBOOK
henrilloyd.com
“Its gorgeous, floral, silky, spicy, corianderseed and juniperlaced, 41.6 per cent London Dry Gin, is the dream bottle to buy” THE TIMES
Meet The Sipsmiths Sipsmith? Why ‘Sipsmith?’ Well, much the same way wordsmiths love to create all things wordical, we love to create all things sippical. Like gin. On a mission to bring gin of uncompromising quality and character back to the city where it all began; this is a classic gin made the way it used to be, the way it should be. Handcrafted at the Sipsmith Distillery in genuinely small batches with skill, care and an almost fetishistical love, we distil the traditional way - on copper, only ever taking the heart of the spirit and never using a concentrate. The result makes it perfect for your Martini or G&T; stunningly smooth, full of character and exploding with flavour. Sipsmith: where old meets new and the two hit it off really quite spectacularly.
www.sipsmith.com
TRESCO TIMES
2015 YEARBOOK
FORGI NG N E W LI N K S I N T H E ISL A N D CH A I N
Edited by Alasdair Moore editor@tresco.co.uk Design & Art Direction nixondesign.com Advertising Nicola Christopher trescotimesads@tresco.co.uk +44 (0)1720 422843 Published by © Tresco Estate 2015 The Island Office, Tresco, Isles of Scilly TR24 0QQ Thank you Chief photographers James Darling, Howard Sooley and Anya Rice. Illustrators Harry Tennant and Nixon Design Additional photography Phil Nicholls, Harry Cory Wright, Islands’ Partnership, Alasdair Moore, Nixon Design, George Kershaw, Ruth Harrison and Joe Verrecchia. ISBN 978-0-9576224-2-5
Print Four Way Print fourwayprint.com
This year has been an exciting one for the island. Much of the news has centred around transport and communication. We’ve got a new airport at Land’s End which is fully functional with hard runways. In addition, the airport at St. Mary’s is now complete with new runways, new terminal building and much more comfort for passengers. The good news for travellers does not stop there. The Tresco Shuttle Service is investing in a beautiful new bus to take you to the harbour, which is itself also undergoing significant improvements and an extension to the quay. And if that wasn’t enough, the Tresco Boat Service has undertaken a complete refurbishment of the three boats and also acquired another jet boat and ferry from St. Martin’s. We hope to be able to offer an efficient and versatile service to the islanders and visitors of three islands. On top of all that we are all now connected to Superfast Broadband and this is bringing many benefits to our community. It is understood that leading from broadband there will be major improvements to the mobile phone network… so that is all jolly good.
The Estate has spent the winter carrying out numerous small improvements ready for the coming year and to cap it all the Hell Bay has just won the “Best hotel in the world” award, or at least the best hotel in the south-west! Also on Bryher, owing to popular demand, the Crab Shack is going to open four evenings a week. We can only hope for another year of beautiful summer weather.
Robert Dorrien Smith
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in this issue
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P58
P20 IT IS NOT THE LAND THAT MAKES THE ISLAND BUT THE SEA
P40
Discover the islands by kayak.
P34 SHRIMP MY TIDE Natural-born shrimper Bill Pritchard tells us how it is, shrimp-style.
P40 WESTERN POWER
P28
Artist Tom Rickman describes his yearning for western shores.
P34
P46 THE CRAB SHACK Shellfishness and deliciousness abound on Bryher.
P64 THE SMUGGLING CATERPILLARS OF TRESCO Brandy, blood and booty... tales of Tresco’s smuggling past.
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Features
LOOKING BACK NOW, THERE IS PRECIOUS LITTLE EVIDENCE REMAINING OF THE SMUGGLING WORLD OF TRESCO’S CATERPILLARS.
P10 2014 PHOTO COMPETITION
“Doing that Tresco thing”: the winner and the runner-up.
P28 ISLAND INTERIORS
Mustique, Henri Lloyd, Partimi and Lotty-B, it’s Tresco’s new shop Lucy-Tania.
P54 FROM THE VINE
P64
Wine offer from Tresco Stores – every one’s a special case.
P58 DIGGING UP THE PAST
James Jenkins and archive images of the Abbey Gardens.
P62 NEWTON ASH FISHING CO. Going to pot with local lads, Jake Newton and William Ash.
P72 SUP – GET ON BOARD
Stand up paddle boarding and Tresco.
P92 TRESCO TRIATHLON 2015 Get your armbands, bicycle clips and running shoes on for 21st June.
Regulars P6 REVIEW OF 2014 What was happening last year.
P20
P14 2015-2016 CALENDAR What’s happening this year. P76 TRAVELLING TO TRESCO P82 ISLAND PURSUITS
A brief guide to getting the best from the islands.
P90 THINGS TO DO ON TRESCO From yoga to boating, and tennis to cycling.
P94 TIMESHARE LIST
Find out which cottages are currently available as timeshare.
P95 USEFUL ISLAND CONTACTS P96 TRESCO ISLAND MAP 2015 YEARBOOK | 3
YOUR OWN PRIVATE HOLIDAY ISLAND
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R E V IE W OF T WO THOUS A ND A ND FOU RTE E N
FOU RT E E N
Squirrels – 2014 was a great year for the squirrels, who really settled into island life. In the Abbey Gardens alone there were three litters of squirrel kittens, fourteen tiny squirrels in total. And these are just the ones that we know about…
T H I RT E E N At the World Pilot Gig Championships the Tresco Ladies come 13th out of 130 and win Group B.
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THR EE Third Tresco & Bryher Food Festival with our partners from Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen Cornwall.
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FOU R
The year of alfresco art with an outdoor exhibition of four paintings by Anthony Garratt
E IGH T Y Eighty competitors swam, cycled and ran the 5th Tresco Triathlon with Dame Judi Dench as the official starter.
T H I RT Y FI V E
To celebrate their 35th birthday, the Miracle Theatre brought the Tempest to our island shores on the Sea Garden lawn.
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ON E
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St Nicholas’ Church has been renovated and for the first time in its existence has been painted inside.
T WO Hell Bay wins two Golds – one in the Cornwall Tourism Awards and another in the South-West Tourism Awards.
N I N E H U N DR ED A N D T H I RT Y N I N E
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Superfast Broadband arrives on Tresco – part of a defunct 939 km cable between Porthcurno and Santander in Spain was diverted to Scilly, as part of a process by which Superfast Broadband was brought to the islands.
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T WO H U N DR ED AND E IGH T Y FI V E There were 285 different species of plant in flower in the Abbey Gardens this New Year.
TWENTY ON E
Congratulations to Head Gardener Andrew Lawson who received his Exemplary Fire Service Medal for 21 years in the Tresco Brigade – well done and thank you Andrew!
FORT Y SE V E N
T WO H U N DR ED A N D T H I RT E E N
After forty-seven years working for Tresco, Harbourmaster Henry Birch has ‘retired’… he’s only working 3 days a week now!
Doing That Tresco Thing Photo Competition With 213 entrants into our “Doing that Tresco thing” photography competition, there were plenty of wonderful photos to choose from. In the end, Lucy Dorrien Smith selected Ruth Harrison’s beautiful and dynamic shot of the Abbey Gardens, which was run a close second by Joe Verrecchia’s lyrical image. Ruth’s photographic skills have won her four return flights from Land’s End and dinner for four on Tresco. Turn the page to see the winners.
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Left: Ruth Harrison – Winner Above: Joe Verrecchia – Runner up
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TRADITIONAL COTTAGES BY THE WEEK BAYWATCH
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Key
Music
Look
Walks
Food & Drink
Walking Tides
These are the dates, times and heights of low tides when it should be possible to walk between Tresco and Bryher, but always check with the Island Office on the day.
MAY
Spring Migration
Flowers & Butterflies with Birdman David Rosair at Hell Bay, Bryher.
YEAR AHEAD Isles of Scilly Gig Races begin
Come and cheer on Tresco and Bryher in the Czar! The Ladies’ Crews race on Wednesday and Mens’ Crews on Friday.
Music at the New Inn
Neil Zebedee – piano man, singer and pal of Ben Waters.
Gallery Tresco – Art Scilly Show
Teresa Pemberton, Rob Raybrooks, Ian Sherman, Janet Lynch, Alasdair Urquhart, Maggie Matthews, Will Shakespeare. The Artists’ Reception party is open to all from 6–8pm.
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Music at the New Inn
Folk and fiddle hero Seth Lakeman.
Crab Shack opens at Hell Bay, Bryher. See page 46.
Newlyn School of Art Painting Break hosted by Paul Lewin, five nights at the New Inn.
RSPB Date With Nature Explore Scilly
Discover the islands with local guides, looking at everything from Scilly’s fascinating history to its birds and its bees.
Free Guided Walk with the Wildlife Trust – 11am from outside the Ruin Beach Café.
In partnership with Tresco, the RSPB offer free bird walks on the island. From 10am – 5pm, there are guided walks to look for wading birds at the Great Pool and Abbey Pool. Meet up by the entrance to the Abbey Garden.
The New Inn Cider Festival
Music at the New Inn
Gallery Tresco Exhibition
Around 50 ciders from all around the globe, accompanied by general jollity and live music.
JULY
The New Inn Ale Festival
About 30 different ales from Cornwall and the South-West, all to be imbibed at the best pub on Tresco.
Free Guided Walk with the Wildlife Trust – 11am from outside the Ruin Beach Café.
JUNE
Sam Mackenzie, Truro’s guitar hero and party man.
Tom Rickman, Imogen Bone and Anthony Garratt. The Artists’ Reception party is open to all from 6–8pm.
Free Guided Walk with the Wildlife Trust – 11am from outside the Ruin Beach Café.
Music at the New Inn Nothing But Trouble.
Music at the New Inn
The Fabulous 59 Ford – traditional rock n’ roll at its best.
The 6th Tresco Triathlon Shrimping season opens.
The 0.3 mile swim from the Ruin slip to Green Beach, a 12 mile cycle ride and a 3 mile run to finish…right by the New Inn! Catch Graham the Bikeman if you can…
The New Inn Great American Feast Enjoy the culinary delights of the USA in the IOS.
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Free Guided Walk with the Wildlife Trust – 11am from outside the Ruin Beach Café.
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Free Guided Walk with the Wildlife Trust – 11am from outside the Ruin Beach Café.
AUGUST
Music at the New Inn
Nick Girone-Maddocks, singersongwriter, acoustic roots, folk and alternative country.
Gallery Tresco Exhibition
Ellen Watson, David Rust and Stuart Kettle. The Artists’ Reception party is open to all from 6–8pm.
Gallery Tresco Exhibition
Neil Pinkett, Maggie O’Brien and Amanda Hoskin. The Artists’ Reception party is open to all from 6–8pm.
Walking Tide – Sunday 2nd Music at the New Inn
Jonah’s Lift, Cornwall’s premier folk-rock band.
Free Guided Walk with the Wildlife Trust – 11am from outside the Ruin Beach Café.
Gallery Tresco Exhibition
Melanie Max, Nicky Walker and Rosemary Trestini. The Artists’ Reception party is open to all from 6–8pm.
ht lt
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Music at the New Inn
David 9 Lunas, acid blues, folk, reggae and punk… That David 9 Lunas, he’s got it all.
Walking Tide – Monday 3rd ht lt
The annual Tresco Fete
Tresco beef BBQ, Pimm’s, bouncy castle, tombola, welly-wanging… How much fun can you handle?
13:56 (0.5m)
Free Guided Walk with the Wildlife Trust – 11am from outside the Ruin Beach Café.
Music at the New Inn
Lost Eleven, Bristol’s country rock blues legends.
The Festival Players – Henry IV Miracle Theatre The Magnificent Three
The Wild West comes to the Wild SouthWest. Tickets are £15 adult/£10 under 16 and the performance starts at 6.30pm on the Sea Garden lawn.
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Free Guided Walk with the Wildlife Trust
Gallery Tresco Exhibition
Tom Holland, Paul Wadsworth and Richard Guy. The Artists’ Reception party is open to all from 6–8pm.
Classic Shakespeare in the Abbey Garden: If all the year were playing holidays, To sport would be as tedious as to work; But when they seldom come, they wished-for come. Tickets are £12.50/£10 concessions and the performance starts at 6.30pm in the Abbey Gardens.
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SEPTEMBER Free Guided Walk with the Wildlife Trust – 11am from outside the Ruin Beach Café.
Scilly Grand Tour Free Guided Walk with the Wildlife Trust – 11am from outside the Ruin Beach Café.
Discover all five inhabited islands while staying on Tresco with a number of guided walks and the Food Festival too!
Gallery Tresco Exhibition
Chris Hankey, Wendy McBride and Gary Long. The Artists’ Reception party is open to all from 6–8pm.
Music at the New Inn
Joss White, Cornwall’s brightest young talent.
RSPB Date With Nature
In partnership with Tresco, the RSPB offer free bird walks on the island. From 10am – 5pm, there are guided walks to look for wading birds at the Great Pool and Abbey Pool. Meet up by the entrance to the Abbey Garden.
Music at the New Inn Free Guided Walk with the Wildlife Trust – 11am from outside the Ruin Beach Café.
Scuppered. Probably the best Dronfield-based folk band in the world.
Music at the New Inn Aaron Clements
Free Guided Walk with the Wildlife Trust – 11am from outside the Ruin Beach Café.
Newlyn School of Art Painting Break Hosted by Maggie O’Brien.
sept
New Inn Ale Festival
Celebrate/mourn the summer’s end at the New Inn in the company of around 30 different ales from Cornwall and the South-West.
Walking Tide – Sunday 30th ht lt
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Walking Tide – Monday 31st ht lt
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Tresco & Bryher Food Festival
Local produce, local bakers, local growers, local brewers, local fishermen, local chefs and lots and lots of food and drink – the Tresco & Bryher Food Festival is back again! Fun, relaxed, inspiring and delicious, the festival is held over two days with special events on both evenings. Tresco hosts the event on Saturday and on Sunday the festivities cross the water to Bryher.
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World in a Garden Break
Hosted by Mike Nelhams, discover the floral world of the Abbey Gardens.
Gallery Tresco Falmouth University Drawing Show The Artists’ Reception party is open to all from 6–8pm.
Free Guided Walk with the Wildlife Trust – 11am from outside the Ruin Beach Café.
Walking Tide – Tuesday 27th ht lt
10:25 (0.5m)
Walking Tide – Wednesday 28th ht lt
OCTOBER Walking Tide – Thursday 1st Autumn Migration
Flowers & Butterflies with Birdman David Rosair at Hell Bay, Bryher.
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11:11 (0.4m)
Walking Tide – Thursday 29th ht lt
11:56 (0.4m)
DECEMBER
oct
Autumn Migration
Flowers & Butterflies with Birdman David Rosair at the New Inn, Tresco.
Walking Tide – Monday 28th ht lt
11:46 (0.4m)
Walking Tide – Tuesday 29th ht lt
12:31 (0.3m)
Yoga Break
Hosted by Lucy Aldridge
Walking Tide – Wednesday 30th ht lt
13:16 (0.3m)
Shrimping Season closes 18 | 2015 YEARBOOK
jan
Ben Waters Weekend at the New Inn
Boogie woogie, blues, rock n’ roll and a very, very good time guaranteed with the best in the business.
Christmas and New Year breaks at the New Inn Escape the hustle and bustle of the festive season and celebrate with us on Tresco.
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2016 jan
The New Year Flower Count in the Abbey Garden
Will this year’s floral account beat the splendid 285 species in bloom of 2015?
mar
Gallery Tresco Exhibition Easter Show The Artists’ Reception party is open to all from 6-8pm.
APRIL
Walk Scilly with more than 20
guided and themed walks across all the inhabited islands and one or two of the uninhabited ones in one fantastic week. Get up close with the wildlife, go foraging, visit our flower farms and learn about our islands’ amazing history.
World Pilot Gig Championships
One of the most spectacular sporting events in the country and one of the best-kept secrets. Traditional sea-faring wooden rowing boats with a crew of six race for the title of World Champions, with over 130 gigs taking part.
MAY Newlyn School of Art Painting Break
Yoga Break with Lucy Aldridge
Enjoy a rejuvenating Spring break for body and soul with yoga guru Lucy.
Light, colour, sea and sky. Paint the islands, accompanied by one of Cornwall’s leading artists
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Photography JAMES DARLING 20 | 2015 YEARBOOK
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“I know a cure for everything. Salt water– sweat, tears or the sea…” ISAK DINESEN
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O ne
of the great pleasures of being on Tresco is actually not being on it at all. Sometimes it’s just about the sea. And for being on the sea, there is nothing better than a kayak. Silent and as close to the ocean as you can be without swimming, the kayak is the perfect craft for discovering the islands. With a guide, with friends or by yourself‌
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The Sailing School Have you got a kayaking story to share? Tag your Instagram images with #trescoisland and we’ll repost them!
Kayaks can be hired on an hourly, daily or weekly rate from the Sailing School, April – October. The Sailing School also offers excellent guided kayaking tours to uninhabited islands with a chance to see Scilly’s wildlife up close. For young families there are double kayaks, allowing adults to assist the kids. The Sailing School also has day boats, dinghies, motorboats, windsurfs and stand-up paddle boards available for hire. From full Royal Yachting Association (RYA) courses in sailing, windsurfing and power boating to taster sessions, the Sailing School is an RYA recognised teaching establishment and is licensed by the Adventure Activities Licensing Authority (AALA). To find out more visit: sailingscilly.com @scillysailing To get in touch: Porthmellon, St Mary’s 01720 422060 Ravensporth Base, Tresco (Manned May half-term, July & August) 01720 424919
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Photography JAMES DARLING
ISL A ND I N T E R IOR S
pened for the first time last year by Lucy and Tania Dorrien Smith, the island’s newest shop Lucy-Tania has proved a huge success. For 2015 there’ll be a new range of Henri Lloyd marine and lifestyle wear, as well as designer items from Mustique, Lotty-B, Catherine Zoraida and Partimi. Very much at the heart of everything are the Tresco-inspired fabrics. These bespoke beauties help set the interior themes of the Sea Garden Cottages. The shell-patterned fabrics are the work of specialist Jacquard weavers David Walters, hand-woven in natural cotton, linen and silk. The fabrics were individually commissioned by Lucy Dorrien Smith, using designs by Freddie Woods. David Walters Fabrics was founded in 1720 and has been operating out of Sudbury Silk Mill in Suffolk since 1900. As well as producing fabrics for interiors, this family-run business has also made dress fabrics; these included the gown for the investiture of Prince Charles in 1969, the wedding dress for Princess Anne in 1973, the Alexander State Coach and the wedding dress for Lady Diana Spencer in 1981. Lucy-Tania 01720 422569 interiors@tresco.co.uk Open Monday to Saturday 9.00am – 4.30pm in the summer, 9.00am – 3.30pm in the winter. 28 | 2015 YEARBOOK
As well as beautiful cushions, the Interiors team at Lucy-Tania have fashioned Tresco-themed bags, scrunchies and even bunting, making perfect gifts and souvenirs.
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SEA GARDEN COTTAGES BY THE NIGHT COWRIE
T R E S C O.C O.U K
James Darling holds a MA in Photojournalism from Westminster, London. He now applies his reportage photography style to weddings, children’s photography and commercial commissions worldwide. www.jamesdarlingphotography.com info@jamesdarlingphotography.com +44(0)7799 674826
SHRIMP MY TIDE From the saltiest Scillonian sea-dog to the most landlubberly novice, everybody loves a bit of island shrimping. Photography JAMES DARLING & HOWARD SOOLEY
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great tradition on Scilly, some of the best shrimping grounds remain a closely-guarded secret. For the Tresco Times, it’s all about a wonderful hour or two spent where the island meets the sea and the promise of freshly-cooked crustaceans with crusty bread, thickly-spread with butter. With that in mind, we’ve compiled a brief guide to Tresco shrimping, with the help of native-born shrimper, Bill Pritchard.
HOW The kit is pretty straight forward – you’ll need a net to catch the shrimps and a bucket to put them in. Some people make their own shrimp nets, others have them handed down through the generations, or you can buy them. Sportsmode on St Mary’s have some good quality nets for sale at around £40 for a good sized one. In terms of shrimping uniform, anything goes. Island ladies of a certain age used to be seen shrimping in their skirts, which floated on the water like patterned lily pads. Gentlemen might prefer to wear shorts. Footwear, such as a pair of old plimsolls, is strongly advised. Not only will your feet be protected from lumps of granite and sharp objects but from crab pincers too! 36 | 2015 YEARBOOK
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The idea with the net is not to use it as a shovel, dredging up the sea bed, but rather gently move it just above the surface of the sand or through the weed. The aim of this is to scoop up the shrimps as they attempt to flee your approach.
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SHRIMP RECIPE
Bill says: “Regularly empty your net, making sure that any shrimps go in your bucket. Part of the fun is that you don’t know what else you might find in your net – pike fish, wrasse, plaice or even tiny spider crabs. The most important thing of all is only catch what you are going to eat.” WHERE Bill says: “A favourable location will have quite a bit of weed, as shrimps often tend to congregate there to hide from the fish. Sunny weather seems to make a difference. I don’t like to get too cold so I don’t go too deep. I don’t tend to get my shorts wet unless I know there’s a really good spot! The best places to start are New Grimsby (off Farm Beach) and Old Grimsby.” WHEN Bill says: “People on the islands look for a biggish tide to go shrimping, though some of our French visitors will go on any tide. Whatever the tide, you should only go shrimping between June and the end of September. They’ll be pretty small in June though!”
Ingredients Clarified butter Ground mace Cayenne pepper Peeled shrimps Lemon juice Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper
S H R I M P Y FAC T Shrimps are one of the noisiest creatures in the sea. The pistol or snapping shrimp stuns its prey with an explosive sound wave created by snapping its claws. This produces a cavitational bubble that can travel at 60mph with a sound of up to 218 decibels. These shrimps are a major source of interference with sonar and underwater listening equipment. THE FINALE Bill says: “Generally I just boil them up in a bit of salted water – bring them to a simmer, stir them three times and they’re done! Bit of bread and butter and a glass of white wine – lovely. One of the great summer pleasures – catching them and eating them!”
Method Put most of the clarified butter in a pan, keeping a few tablespoons-worth to one side. Add a pinch of mace and a pinch of cayenne pepper to the pan and simmer for a couple of minutes. Pour in the shrimps, adding a little lemon juice. Make sure that the shrimps are all thoroughly coated in the butter mix. After a few minutes, add the pepper and salt. Put the buttery shrimp mix into some small pots and then pour on the rest of the clarified butter. This should form a top layer on the shrimps. Refrigerate and once you are hungry spread thickly on hot toast or bread still warm from the oven.
PREP
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THE NEW INN BY THE NIGHT
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I first visited the Islands in 1984, camping on each of the islands in turn, each one leaving its own impression and magic. Then I lived in West Dorset and always had a fascination with the west (as I still do). So journeying to the far west of Britain seemed a logical progression and, more importantly, a recognisable need in myself and my work.
Artist Tom Rickman tells the Tresco Times of islands, light and a westward yearning
Since then I have moved to West Cornwall and spend time viewing and working from the western skies over the Atlantic, off Land’s End. Scilly is always there, sitting on the horizon like a group of jewels, laced with romanticism and mystery. Sometimes a few smudges swallowed in murky storms, other times exotic shapes bathed in the brilliant Atlantic light.
To satisfy my ‘western need’, I make journeys to the ‘Fortunate Isles’ to paint and soak up the special atmosphere of the place. It is somewhere that sits on the edge of the great wilderness that is the Atlantic Ocean, somewhere that draws my eye into that vast firmament.
Photography TOM RICKMAN & NIXON DESIGN
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I seem to be drawn to painting amongst islands, whether they are Scilly, the Outer Hebrides and Western Highlands of Scotland, Nantucket Island in the States and a recently found muse, Sicily. Islands seem the closest place one can get to being in a garden and being amongst the waves – and no more so than on Tresco.
TOM IS ONE OF THE ARTISTS EXHIBITING AT GALLERY TRESCO’S ART SCILLY SHOW ON 1ST JULY. P re v i o u s p a ge: C a s t le D ow n b y To m R ick m a n (20 04 ). A B A L O N E C O T TAG E , T R E S C O .
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EXHIBITIONS May 2015 — March 2016 11 May Art Scilly Show Teresa Pemberton, Rob Raybrooks, Ian Sherman, Janet Lynch, Alasdair Urquhart, Maggie Matthews, Will Shakespeare 1 July Tom Rickman, Imogen Bone and Anthony Garratt 11 July Ellen Watson, David Rust and Stuart Kettle 21 July Melanie Max, Nicky Walker and Rosemary Trestini 1 August Neil Pinkett, Maggie O’Brien and Amanda Hoskin 11 August Tom Holland, Paul Wadsworth and Richard Guy 21 August Chris Hankey, Wendy McBride and Gary Long 16 October Falmouth University Drawing Show 26 March 2016 Easter Show
01720 424925 gallery@tresco.co.uk gallerytresco.co.uk Tresco Isles of Scilly TR24 0QE
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t’s really very simple.” Says Head Chef Richard Kearsley. “The freshest, most local crab, delivered to the kitchen door by the fisherman himself, prepared, cooked and brought to your table. It’s all about the crab.” Richard is not wrong. It’s hard to think of anything more straight forward than dining at the Crab Shack on Bryher. A traditional granite barn, a few hundred yards from the sea, with whitewashed walls and simple furnishings, it is not complicated. However, a table at the Crab Shack is the most sought-after island culinary experience on Scilly. There’s no ceremony here. Tables and benches are shared, the menu is a blackboard on the wall and the wine list is red, white or rosé. Diners can choose from medium, large and occasionally “monster” crabs, which are delivered to the tables in handsome, copper cataplanas from Portugal, dressed with a choice of delicious butter sauces such as parsley and garlic or lime, chilli and ginger. The claws are everything here and they are presented cracked for diners to extract the sweet white meat themselves. 46 | 2015 YEARBOOK
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Photography JAMES DARLING, HOWARD SOOLEY & ALASDAIR MOORE
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In fact, the joy of the process and a convivial atmosphere are at the heart of the Crab Shack. Philip Callan, manager of Hell Bay, who set up the restaurant with Richard, feels this is a crucial element in its success: “So many of us are not naturally comfortable sitting next to strangers in a restaurant. You can often see our guests are initially a little wary but, once the wine starts flowing and everyone is getting stuck into their crab, things warm up wonderfully. We hand out our aprons at the start of the evening as it can get a bit messy – you just can’t be formal at the Crab Shack; it’s impossible not to interact with your fellow diners!”
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“MANY OF OUR GUESTS HAVE NEVER EATEN CRAB IN THIS WAY BEFORE, SO WE ALWAYS SHOW DINERS THE BEST METHOD. IT’S WHEN THE FUN REALLY STARTS FOR EVERYONE.” As well as crab, there are scallops and mussels on the menu, all served with fries and salad. For pudding, there’s either Eton Mess or cheese. Philip remarks: “The menu doesn’t really change. We believe in keeping it simple and sticking to what works. It’s the Crab Shack, so it’s shellfish all the way. It doesn’t suit everybody and it’s not necessarily the ideal spot for young children. Of course, if you are coming to eat with friends and you don’t like shellfish, then call us the day before and we’ll cook you something special.”
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TOP CRAB TIP
To make a flavoursome crab bisque, roast the empty crab shells before using them to make stock.
CRAB CLAWS Just in case you’d like to feast on some fresh crab claws at home and have yet to enjoy a Crab Shack masterclass, Head Chef Richard Kearsley has put together a guide to picking crab claws!
1 2 3 4 5 6
olding the base of the claw close to the body H of the cooked crab, firmly twist and ease the claw out of its socket. Twist apart the claw at its joint. ake the main part of the claw and crack T the shell using the back of a heavy knife. With a lobster pick, remove the meat. ove on to the legs, twisting them off the M body and then breaking them apart, so you can get busy with your picking tool! Eat.
Keeping the Crab Shack in crab is Bryher fisherman, Mike Pender. Mike also provides crab and lobster for Tresco too. If you’d like to order locallycaught lobster and crab, Mike will deliver it to New Grimsby quay so you can pick it up from the man himself! To place an order, please call Mike & Sue Pender on Bryher 01720 422975. 2015 YEARBOOK | 49
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The Crab Shack is now in its third year and, due to popular demand, will now be open four nights a week from May half-term until mid-September. Bookings are absolutely essential. In February, the Crab Shack was already 25% full for the season ahead! Head Chef Richard Kearsley has the last word:
“The Crab Shack is exactly what it says it is. Simple, strippeddown, delicious dining. There’s no Wi-Fi, there’s no phone signal, just lots of people enjoying great food and great company.” 50 | 2015 YEARBOOK
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Hell Bay is an award-winning hotel and restaurant on Bryher, the neighbouring island to Tresco. Owned by Tresco Estate, Hell Bay is the highest-rated hotel on the Isles of Scilly, with three AA rosettes, as well as an outdoor swimming pool and Spa room. New for 2015, our High Tide rooms are now graced with beautiful balconies.
hellbay.co.uk | 01720 422947 2015 YEARBOOK | 51
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SETH LAKEMAN AT THE NEW INN Good food, good drink, good company, good times. For more details about music at the New Inn, please see the Tresco Times calendar (pages 14-19).
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Order a case of our six French or a case of six Italian wines and we’ll deliver them to your cottage before you arrive. We’ll even put the white and rosé in the fridge for you, so the wine will be perfectly chilled when you walk through the door.
£50.00 FRENCH CASE OF SI X
£75.00 ITALIAN CASE OF SI X
F U RTHER IN FORMATION You ca n or de r a T re sco T i me s ca s e (or eve n t wo) on l i n e at t re sco.co.u k /w i n e O r e ma i l you r or de r t o s h o p@ t re sco.co.u k 54 | 2015 YEARBOOK
R A NC E
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These three cracking wines come from the Dardé brothers, who for more than 30 years have been making brilliant value wines a stone’s throw from Sète, on the Mediterranean coast. Perched in the hills with views of the sea, the vineyards benefit from this maritime climate, which moderates the temperature and means the grapes hang on the vines for a good, long season, developing complexity and beautiful finesse. Order a case of six of any of these (any combination) and we’ll deliver them to your cottage before your arrival.
Sauvignon-Vermentino Domaine Saint Félix 2014 is a n oth er cra ckin g vinta ge of this fresh a n d aro m atic w hite fro m th e La n g u e d o c-Ro ussillo n with d elicate fruit a n d a brig ht finish. Merlot Cabernet-Carignan Domaine Saint Félix A lig ht, easy drin kin g w in e. A n id eal a cco m p a nim e nt to crusty brea d a n d p até or b a n gers a n d m ash. Grenache-Cinsault Rosé Domaine Saint Félix Cru n chy p ale pin k Gre na ch e with a bit of bite fro m th e Cinsa ult m a kes this ver y a p p etisin g in d e e d.
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TA LY From Sardinia to Puglia, Italy is here for you in a glass. We’ve selected six of our favourite Italian wines for our guests on Tresco to be delivered to your cottage before you arrive.
Allegrini Valpolicella
Gran Sasso Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
O n e of th e m ost cele brate d pro d u cers in Italy’s Ve n eto. Fra nco a n d Marilisa Allegrini are alw ays se e kin g to p ush b o u n daries of w hat ca n b e a chieve d in this ru g ge d, b ea utiful la n dsca p e.
It’s th e little thin g s – ha n d har vestin g, 15-20 year-old vin es, m eticulo us w in e m a kin g by th e yo u n g Rin o Sa nte usa nio – that m a kes this w in e sta n d o ut. Its fresh, juic y plu m -like chara cter a p p eals to a wide ra nge of fo o d pairings.
Ca di’ Alte Pinot Grigio Its d elicate aro m as a n d pristin e varietal chara cteristics ste m fro m o nly so urcing pre miu m gra p es gro w n o n hillsid e sites. A Mano Primitivo H ere in Pu glia, Italy’s ‘h e el’, Primitovo reig ns su pre m e, craftin g d e e ply colo ure d a n d e q ually im pressively stru cture d re d win es.
Cantina Mesa Primo Bianco Hailin g fro m Sardinia, M esa is th e a m bitio us proje ct of lo cal Gavin o Sa n na. T his is 10 0 % Ver m e ntin o, th e w hite variety that e xcels o n this M e diterra n ea n isla n d. Poggio del Sasso Sangiovese N o Italia n sele ctio n w o uld b e co m plete w ith o ut a representative of Sa ngiovese, “blo o d of Jove” a n d Tusca ny’s great re d gra p e variety. 2015 YEARBOOK | 55
SEA GARDEN COTTAGES BY THE WEEK OR BY THE YEAR
T R E S C O.C O.U K
Digging up the past
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urning back time, we’re delving into the photographic archive of the Abbey Gardens with a portrait of one of the island’s horticultural heroes, James Jenkins. Pictured here in Valhalla (once the garden entrance), James Jenkins began his career as a junior gardener in 1865, during the last years of the gardens’ creator, Augustus Smith. By the time of his retirement in 1927, Jenkins had become Head Gardener, having worked for both of Augustus’ successors, Thomas Algernon Dorrien Smith and Arthur Algernon Dorrien Smith. Garden Vista from the 1870s Taken from the top of the Aloe Walk, this is an intriguing view now lost to the leafy shelterbelt that protects the gardens. The layout of the gardens’ stables can be seen where the Garden Visitor Centre stands today and a distant roof at Bathing-house Porth can be made out close to Carn Near. Is this the old Gleaner and Normandy boatshed that was then used as a bathing house? The Aloe Walk takes its name from the agaves that lined its borders and were flowering at the time of this photograph. The agave was once commonly referred to as an aloe.
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OPEN 10AM-4PM EVERY DAY
T R E S C O.C O.U K
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HOM E DE L I V E RY C R A B A N D L OB S T E R F ROM T H E S E A T O YOU R C O T TAGE ON T R E S C O: W H AT I S L A N D L I F E I S A L L A B OU T. New ton A sh F ish C o. – Ja ke New ton, W i l l A sh a nd t hei r b oat C er i L ee. Tres co’s on ly com mercia l f isher men, order c rab or lobster f rom Ja ke a nd W i l l a nd t hey ca n del iver d i rec t to you r cot t a ge. War nin g – thi s se r v i c e migh t a c t u al ly c on s t i t u te an e n t ire fo od mil e . TO PLACE A N OR DER PLEASE CA LL 07841 429291 OR 01720 422482
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Illustration HARRY TENNANT Words ALASDAIR MOORE
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Picture a moonlit night at Old Grimsby a few hundred years ago. Up from Green Beach quietly trudges a line of men. They are moving as one, in single file with only a step between them. Slung across each man’s chest and back are barrels or “tubs” of brandy. Eight, nine, ten men pass by in an unbroken line as they slip away into the still night. They are smugglers, bringing contraband ashore. Silhouetted against the white sand, they appear not men at all but a great, many-legged creature. This is a Tresco caterpillar. For generations, hundreds of such caterpillars made their way up and down the island’s beaches. So many and for so long, that eventually the caterpillar became part of the islanders’ very identity. Tresco is steeped in the history of smuggling.
atives of the Isles of Scilly have traditional nicknames that relate to the individual islands of their birth. An islander from St Agnes is known as a Turk, someone from Bryher is a Thorn, those from St Martin’s are Ginnicks and those from St Mary’s are Bulldogs. If you were born on Tresco then you’re a Caterpillar. Caterpillars may not be the first things that come to mind when you think of our beautiful island but a couple of centuries ago it all made perfect sense. 66 | 2015 YEARBOOK
Smuggling The golden age of smuggling or Free Trade, as it was more politely known, ran through the eighteenth century in to the early 1800s. During this period, smuggling was part of our national consciousness. Hundreds of thousands of otherwise loyal and law-abiding subjects thought nothing of regularly buying illegal, smuggled goods. As evidence of this, one need look no further than that most British of all commodities, tea. In 1743, only fifty percent of all the tea drunk in Britain was believed to have been imported legally. The other half (over 850,000lbs of tea leaves) made its way into the nation’s teapots courtesy of the smugglers. From brandy and tobacco to currants and pantaloons, any and every profitable item imaginable was smuggled into the country. Isles of Scilly The Isles of Scilly’s geographical location made it an ideal depot for smuggled goods. Ships from all over the world, carrying all manner of cargo, were serviced with pilots and fresh victuals by the islanders, far from the prying eyes of Customs officials. There were few parts of the country more ideally suited to Free Trade. In 1764 the Exeter Flying Post noted: “Great quantities of foreign tea, brandy and other manufactures are daily imported
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into this kingdom from Scilly, where boats generally intercept all ships passing by there in their course up both Channels, under pretence of furnishing them with greens, poultry etc. Orders were this week sent to Plymouth to station a number of armed cutters to cruise round the islands, who are to examine all boats that put off any ship to prevent more effectively this illicit commerce.” Smuggling was much more than criminal activity. It was a social phenomenon. From the humblest boatman to the priest, almost every level of society was involved in smuggling, either directly or as a customer. Free Trade was, perhaps, the most democratic element of eighteenth century British life. The nation was complicit and it was this that made it so difficult to eradicate. As Kipling’s poem, A Smuggler’s Song, tells us, it was “Brandy for the Parson, ‘Baccy for the Clerk.” An eye-witness account from the early 1800s describes precisely this on Scilly. James Silk Buckingham visited the islands on the revenue cutter Active, part of the government’s anti-smuggling campaign. He was unimpressed.
“Nothing could be conceived more primitive than the state of society among which we were now thrown. The town of St Mary’s, though the largest of all within the islands, was very small; the population not exceeding fifteen hundred. It had however a governor, two clergymen, three doctors, two lawyers, several merchants, who were all smugglers, a collector of customs and his staff, and two military officers, with a single company of soldiers. These constituted the aristocracy of the island; the rest were mere tradesmen, shopkeepers and boatmen, who lived partly by fishing, still more by smuggling and, worst of all, it was said by visiting wrecked vessels and helping themselves freely to whatever could be saved from destruction.
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In all these daily diversions, George the Third was the paragon of monarchs – William Pitt the heaven-born minister – the Americans were Yankee rebels, and the French a frog-eating, wooden-shoewearing, dancing and capering set of Jacobins; yet amidst all their loyalty, cheating the revenue by smuggling, and plundering wrecks when thrown within their reach, were not regarded as disreputable, since all classes there shared more or less in the profits of such occupations.” Caterpillar days What made Tresco notable in terms of smuggling on Scilly, what made its inhabitants “Caterpillars”, was the island’s favourable position within the archipelago. The Custom House and its officials were on St Mary’s. Tresco is blessed with sheltered anchorages, both at New Grimsby and Old Grimsby. Goods could be loaded and unloaded discreetly. It seems that the islands served as an entrepôt for contraband, a sort of staging post. Passing shipping could bring goods in or ship them out and Tresco provided the most convenient and unobtrusive spot on Scilly for such arrangements to be made.
The aristocracy of the island, as above described, met regularly at the principal inn, as early as two o’clock in the afternoon, everyone dining at one; and here they usually spent their time till sunset or later, drinking, smoking, hearing and discussing general or local news, singing songs that would not now be tolerated in any decent society, varied now and then by a game of cards or backgammon. In all these daily diversions, the most perfect equality seemed to reign; the Governor was just as ready with his joke, and the clergymen with their songs, as the lawyer, the doctor or the smuggler; all seemed loyal to the backbone; 2015 YEARBOOK | 67
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iron hatch bars, a pump brake, and other offensive weapons. In the scuffle John Trannick was killed, and the rest of the Custom House officers then in the boat, being extremely weak and faint through loss of blood, from the wounds they received, and being in danger of their lives, were obliged to quit possession of the sloop. The people on board were tried afterward at the Old Bailey, in London, for the murder of the said John Trannick, and were acquitted, as no person would swear that the sloop was within the limits allowed by the law, when the Custom House officers attempted to board her, and to seize her.”
Looking back now, there is precious little evidence remaining of the smuggling world of Tresco’s Caterpillars. This is hardly surprising, given the nature of Free Trade, so it is on the few contemporary authors such as Buckingham that we depend for a glimpse of their lives. One such writer is the Rev. John Troutbeck, a chaplain on the islands for some years at the end of the 18th century. Troutbeck’s reputation is one of a smuggling and wrecking priest and it was this taint that led to his departure from Scilly in 1796. However, in 1794 he published “A Survey of the Ancient and Present State of the Scilly Islands”. Brutal violence and a Mafia-like omerta were part of the Caterpillar’s world:
“On the 23rd day of June, 1771, the Custom House officers went in pursuit of a small sloop belonging to the island of Tresco, which they saw near the Crim Rock in Broad Sound, suspected by them to be on a contraband trade, from France to Scilly; when they got up with the sloop it proved to be as they suspected. So the officers laid hold of the said sloop and endeavoured to board her, but the persons therein resisted the attempt, and armed themselves with 68 | 2015 YEARBOOK
“August 25th 1791, Mr Thomas Hall, Surveyor of the Customs at Scilly, having received information of a smuggling vessel, called the Friendship, of Penzance, belonging to James Dunkin, and commanded by George Bramwell, went out in his boat in search of her, and about ten o’clock at night fell in with her, in Old Grimsby harbour, near the island of Tresco; on his rowing towards the said vessel for the purpose of boarding her, a person from the deck hailed and asked “What boat is that?” And upon the said Hall answering “The Custom boat.” Two muskets or blunderbusses were immediately fired into the said boat, by which William Millett and John Oliver, two of the boatmen, in the said Custom House boat were killed, and John Jane, another boatman, dangerously wounded.” Dunkin and the Friendship escaped but the Commissioners of his Majesty’s Customs set a reward of £500 for information that would lead to his arrest and conviction. This was a vast sum of money, relative in terms of average earnings to over £610,000 today. The end of the Caterpillars The Caterpillars might seem impervious to law on this evidence but the golden days of “Free Trade” were nearly over. Preventive or revenue cutters patrolled the waters of Scilly in force. In 1809 the Preventive Water Guard were founded as part of a campaign to eradicate smuggling. Following the Battle of Waterloo in 1815, the smuggling sun began to set. With its coffers empty after years of conflict, the British government needed income. Duty on imported goods had to be enforced. Britain had now a surplus of soldiers and sailors needing employment.
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In 1822, His Majesty’s Coastguard was formed and its mission was to suppress smuggling. By 1828, the Coastguard was very much established on the islands. Scilly was home to an Inspecting-Commander, as well as twenty-three officers and men spread across the islands. No local men were recruited to the islands’ Coastguard to prevent corruption. Regulations were clear about fraternisation with the locals:
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2
“Any individual intermarrying with the family of a reputed or notorious smuggler, or lodging in his house, or contracting any improper intimacy with him, will be dismissed.” On a small island like Tresco, the lines could easily become blurred. Early on, the Inspecting-Commander reported:
“Mr Richard R-----, chief officer of the Tresco station, has since the last halfyearly report, married a woman belonging to St Mary’s Island, who may be a branch of a smuggler’s family, or be connected with smugglers, of whom the island principally consists; and, under the circumstances, I beg to suggest that he may be moved from the district.” Things could have been worse, of course. In September 1829, the Chief Officer and Boatman of the Tresco Coastguard station went before a Court of Inquiry “with reference to a late smuggling transaction on that island.” Despite the occasional hiccup, the Coastguard’s activities had a devastating effect on the Caterpillars. In 1830, two Tresco boats, the Speedwell and Mary Ann, were broken up by the Coastguard after they were found to have run goods from Roscoff. There was a fleet of revenue cutters patrolling the sea between France and Britain. The arrival on Scilly of Augustus Smith in 1834 hastened the end of smuggling as an economic force on the islands. The islands' new authority was set firmly against the practice of smuggling. Caught running goods and the Coastguard would destroy your boat, while Augustus Smith could take away your house and send you into exile. The economic climate of Scilly began to change too. Shipbuilding flourished on Scilly, agriculture improved and compulsory education developed new opportunities for islanders. As with the rest of the country, the smuggling world slowly contracted. It did not wither entirely, of course, but the glory days of Free Trade had passed. As each decade passes, the derivation of “Caterpillar” becomes increasingly obscure. It is not the snappiest of nicknames and it’s now seldom used. Despite this, the term “Caterpillar” remains one of the few cultural links with a period of Tresco’s history that deserves remembrance.
Smuggling gave rise to great inventiveness from both the preventive and smuggling fraternities. For example, as the Coastguard became more effective, smugglers took to sinking their goods offshore as a way of concealment. The Coastguard in turn took to “creeping up” goods. Basically this was sinking a line between two rowing boats with hooks or “creepers” attached to trawl for the smugglers’ swag. There were a variety of creepers, with different functions used by both smugglers and Coastguard. Two creepers are illustrated above. 1 The centipede: a classic smugglers’ creeper and happily in tune with Caterpillars.
2 The sand creeper: perfect for a sandy seabed but useless in rocky conditions. Rock creepers had “guards” designed to allow the creeper to move over the rocks. Further reading: “Smuggling Days, Smuggling Ways.” by Henry Shore (1892) is the Tresco Times’ top smuggling text book – well-written, well-informed and entertaining. It is a gem.
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oday on Tresco there are still one or two remnants of the island’s Caterpillar past. Most obviously there is Smugglers Cottage, near the Old Blockhouse. The name is 20th century but the smuggler’s cache along the southern side of the house probably dates from the 18th century. At the end of the 19th century, an elderly couple lived here. Due to their poverty, they were supported with a small pension provided by the Dorrien Smith family. On their death, the house was cleared. Under the mattress in their bedroom was found, concealed in a stocking, £800 in cash. It was generally assumed that the money could only have come from a lifetime’s profit from smuggling. The couple were related to James Nance of St Martin’s, a celebrated 19th century smuggler, who it is believed made 20 trips to Roscoff. The field opposite the cottage is still known to islanders as “Mary Nance’s”.
Smuggler’s Cottage is a timeshare cottage and is occasionally available for weekly rental. 70 | 2015 YEARBOOK
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ld Grimsby is where you’ll find the blue and white Watch House, which was the Coastguard boathouse for many years. It stands a few paces above the beach and overlooks the harbour, the scene of the notorious 1791 shooting. Looking out from the cottage, the Old Blockhouse is visible on the promontory above the harbour. This was one of the Coastguards’ watch points.
The Watch House is now a rental holiday cottage, available by the week.
nland, there is the stately Dolphin House, which was built in 1799 and, until recent times, served as the Parsonage. Some Scillonian parsons like Rev. John Troutbeck were keen participants in traditional island activities such as smuggling and wrecking. Troutbeck’s first role on Tresco was as the SPCK priest. Dolphin House has an unusually large cellar, perfect for storing religious tracts and pamphlets, as well as barrels of fine French brandy.
Dolphin House is now a rental holiday cottage, available by the week. 2015 YEARBOOK | 71
G E T O N BOA R D Stand Up Paddle Boarding (SUP) is going to go from strength to strength this year on Tresco. We’re looking to introduce SUP Safaris for groups with Lawrence Smith (Ocean High Kite Surf & Paddle Board) & SUP Yoga with Lucy Aldridge, so keep an eye out for more details in the near future. SUPs are available to hire from the Sailing School (01720 422060).
Adam and Michael Dorrien Smith invite you to visit their award winning Bristol Townhouse. Rates from ÂŁ125 for two people bed and breakfast.
www.number38clifton.com 01179 466 905
A MILLION MILES FROM EVERYDAY LIFE Disconnect from the stresses of modern life and discover the island paradise on your doorstep just 15mins from Land’s End Airport. www.islesofscilly-travel.co.uk 01736 334220
STAYING ON TRESCO? PLEASE BOOK THROUGH THE ISLAND OFFICE 01720 422 849
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T R AV E LLI NG TO T R E S C O Tresco lies just 28 miles off the coast of Cornwall and is easily accessible by both sea and air. The Island Office team is here to make it easy for you and will organise all the necessary travel arrangements on your behalf. Our aim is for your journey to Tresco to be as convenient and as enjoyable as possible. By Plane
By Boat
Skybus fly to the neighbouring island of St Mary’s from Land’s End and Newquay all year round, and Exeter from March to October. On arrival on St Mary’s, you will be met by a Tresco representative who will accompany you to one of our boats and assist you on the final leg of your journey.
Alternatively, from March to November you can opt to take the two and a half hour ferry crossing to St Mary’s from Penzance. From St Mary’s quay, it’s only a short boat journey to Tresco, where you will be met and taken to your accommodation.
Please call us on 01720 422849 or email contactus@tresco.co.uk
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EATDRINKSLEEP
Restaurants with rooms in Britain’s most beautiful places
The GuRNaRD’s heaD For St. Ives & Zennor
The FelIN Fach GRIFFIN The OlD cOasTGuaRD For Brecon & Hay-on-Wye
For Mousehole & The Minack
FLYING BOAT COTTAGES BY THE WEEK ENDEAVOUR
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Chartered Insurance Brokers Who, like Tresco, are truly unique — Bespoke, tailor made, insurance solutions — Personal and independent advice — Understanding of your individual needs Protect what you care about most
Contact our Private Clients Managers on: privateclients@wpsinsurance.co.uk 01752 675483 / 424656 www.wpsinsurance.co.uk
PLEASE ENJOY CHAMPAGNE CHARLES HEIDSIECK RESPONSIBLY
ISLAND PURSUITS A brief guide to enjoying the Isles of Scilly.
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UNSPOILT AND PEACEFUL
Island size: 366 acres | Population: 72 Images courtesy of Islands’ Partnership, AONB, Chris Orde, George Torode and Bob Berry.
t Agnes – the most south-western of all the inhabited islands and joined at the hip to the island of Gugh (rhymes with Hugh) except at high tide. Home to Wingletang Down, St Warna’s Well and Periglis.
TRESCO TIMES DAY OUT ON ST AGNES –M eet the Old Man of Gugh and discover an ancient tomb, Obadiah’s Barrow – Find a shipwrecked bead in Beady Pool – Enjoy an ice cream with clotted cream at Troytown Farm – Find the old lighthouse keepers’ maze – Build a pebble tower at White Par
St Agnes is home to some unique island businesses, including island soap, chocolate and ice cream.
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RUGGED, YET DEEPLY BEAUTIFUL
Island size: 327 acres | Population: 81
TRESCO TIMES DAY OUT ON BRYHER – Lunch at the Hell Bay Hotel followed by pitch and putt – Hire a boat for the day at Bennett Boatyard – Tattie cake and a pasty at Bryher Shop – Climb the five hills of Bryher –A crab sandwich and a pint at Fraggle Rock
The island is virtually traffic free, and is criss-crossed by footpaths and tracks
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Images courtesy of Islands’ Partnership and Roger Broughton.
ryher – the land of the hills, the island marks the north-western perimeter of Scilly’s archipelago. Home to Hell Bay, Droppy Nose Point and Popplestones.
LOCAL, SIMPLE, DELICIOUS. May – September Booking is essential Call 01720 422947
3 AA rosette restaurant. Lunch and dinner, bar or dining room. 01720 422947 | hellbay.co.uk
Spa www.hellbay.co.uk
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THE HUB OF SCILLONIAN LIFE
Island size: 1554 acres | Population: 1666
TRESCO TIMES DAY OUT ON ST MARY’S –F our legs good – take a horse ride down to the beach –G o back in Scilly time to the Ancient Village at Halangy Down and Bant’s Carn Burial Chamber. Don’t forget the Isles of Scilly Museum too! –H ave a Porthmellon morning with kayaking followed by lunch at Spero’s –T ake in the view at Juliet’s Garden Restaurant and Bar
For the visitor, St Mary’s offers a range of activities, including horse riding, bicycle hire, golf, sea safaris and even guided bus tours. 86 | 2015 YEARBOOK
Images courtesy of Islands’ Partnership, Peter Kiss and George Torode.
t Mary’s – Scilly’s largest island in terms of size and population, graced with both town and country. Home to Giant’s Castle, Innisidgen and Maypole.
Tresco Times advert_Layout 1 10/03/2015 17:09 Page 1
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Tours and wine tasting at Holyvale Vineyard
Open every day 12 Noon to 4.30pm for tastings and refreshments. ‘The Story of Wine’ exhibition has both outdoor and indoor seating and has specially selected wines from around the world available from the shop. There are tours of the Vineyard and Winery including tastings on Wednesdays and Fridays at 5.30pm. Tours last for an hour and a half. Admission of £20.00 includes mini tapas and return taxi from St. Mary's Quay at 5.15pm. Booking is essential. Tastings can also be arranged for parties of 8 - 20 persons by appointment at other times. Please call 01720 422333 or 07775568242. We look forward to welcoming you to Holyvale Vineyard and Winery located in the magical Holyvale in the heart of St.Mary's. www.holyvalewines.co.uk . info@holyvalewines.co.uk
Fabulous food. Fabulous view. julietsgardenrestaurant.co.uk
On the coastal footpath, above Porthloo, St Mary’s. Food served all day and most evenings, inside and out. Call ahead to book an evening table.
01720 422228
Y’S BECKLLY SCI ES CAK
Unique wedding cakes, birthday cakes and cake toppers
We make to order, from simple pretty cakes to elaborate novelty cakes
Find me opposite the library at Porthcressa, St. Mary’s, on facebook, online or call 01720 423741
TRESCO TIMES
2015 YEARBOOK
A PREVAILING SENSE OF CALM
Island size: 568 acres | Population: 140
TRESCO TIMES DAY OUT ON ST MARTIN’S –E arn your stripes at the Daymark and find Billy Idol, the islands’ oldest resident – Sit back with a pint and the view at the Seven Stones Inn – Grab a handmade Cornish pasty from the Island Bakery –D iscover local wildlife, snorkelling with the seals, and top it off with a cream tea at Polreath –F ind some island treasure at Fay Page’s Gallery!
The island has two quays, which are situated at Lower Town (looking across to Tresco) and Higher Town. Its most recognisable feature is the red and white striped daymark, built in 1683. 88 | 2015 YEARBOOK
Images courtesy of Islands’ Partnership, Tim Allsop and Steve Watt.
t Martin’s – an island of rugged coastline and fine beaches. Home to Tinkler’s Hill, Wine Cove and Brandy Point.
RUIN BEACH CAFÉ OPEN DAILY FOR LUNCH AND DINNER
T R E S C O.C O.U K
THE NEW INN TEA ROOM • ST. MARTIN’S For delicious homebaked cakes, lunches, cream teas and Moomaid ice cream, join us in our conservatory, plantsman’s garden or Scillonian glasshouse. Licensed.
OPEN DAILY FOR LUNCH AND DINNER
Open Sunday to Friday April to September
01720 422046 www.polreath.com
T R E S C O.C O.U K
TRESCO TIMES
2015 YEARBOOK
THINGS TO DO THE ABBEY GARDEN
TENNIS
Our world-famous horticultural delight is open every day 10am – 4pm. Under 16s get in for free and follow the Valhalla Trail for kids!
There are two all-weather courts near the Flying Boat and another at the Sea Garden Cottages. Pop into the Spa to book and for racquets and balls.
BOATING Tresco Boat Services visit other islands daily as well as offering trips to see birds and seals. Private charters and fishing trips are also available. For further details call +44 (0)1720 423373. Island Sea Safaris on St Mary’s offer ‘Shipwreck, Seals and Seabirds’ wildlife rib excursions and private charters. For further details please call Mark or Susie on +44 (0)1720 422732. Boat Hire is available from Bennett Boat Yard – call Dan on +44 (0)1720 422205. For long term boatshare, call Scillonia Boatshare +44 (0)1720 422702.
Don’t miss GIG ROWING From May to September there are regular gig races between the island clubs. Scilly hosts the World Gig Racing Championships every May.
DIVING Isles of Scilly Diving School on St Martin’s organise diving and snorkel excursions. Call +44 (0)1720 422848 for more information.
FISHING
SAILING/WINDSURFING/ CANOEING/PADDLEBOARDING These are all available at the Sailing Centre. Please go to page 27 for more details.
Tresco Boat Services also arrange offshore fishing adventures (see Boating for contact details).
GOLF CYCLING Bikes for all ages are available for hire next door to the Stores & Delicatessen.
There’s a nine-hole, eighteen tee golf course on St Mary’s. Call +44(0)1720 424075.
GALLERY TRESCO The exhibition calendar is on page 51.
YOGA AND WELL-BEING For more information about spa treatments and yoga please call +44 (0)1720 424075.
GYM There’s a fully equipped gym at the Spa and the Sea Garden Cottages.
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TRESCO TIMES
WALKING There is a network of footpaths on Tresco. One option is to follow the coastal path along to Cromwell’s seventeenth century castle on the island’s north-west promontory (built to guard the anchorage between Bryher and Tresco). A short hike up the hill behind leads you to King Charles’ Castle with fabulous views of the islands.
HISTORIC MONUMENTS Two forts (the Old Blockhouse and King Charles’ Castle) were built in Tudor times to defend the harbours at Old and New Grimsby from French and Spanish invaders. The remains can be seen today. In the 1650s, Cromwell’s Castle – a tall cylindrical building with a lower gun platform – was built and still dominates the channel between Tresco and Bryher.
2015 YEARBOOK
Wildlife Walks in July & August Join the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust on a free guided walk exploring Tresco’s natural beauty, with one of their Ranger team. The walks will give you the chance to see lots of wildlife, enjoy beautiful scenery and learn about the island’s creatures. When? Once a week, every Tuesday from 9 June until 15 September. There will also be a walk on 26 May and on 27 October. Where? Meet outside the Ruin Beach Café How long? About 2 hours. How much: Free! The walks are open to all Tresco guests. Due to the length and the terrain it may not be suitable for children under eight, parental discretion is advised. Bring binoculars if you have them!
SWIMMING There are indoor pools at the Spa and Sea Gardens available to members and three heated outdoor pools on the island.
BIRDWATCHING The island is a magnet for birdwatchers. Tresco has three bird hides and two freshwater pools. Special spring and autumn tours are available with professional ornithologist David Rosair.
HORSE RIDING St Mary’s Riding Centre caters for a range of abilities. They also offer trips on a horse-drawn carriage. Please call +44 (0)1720 423855 for more details.
RSPB Date with nature 10th Anniversary
6-20th June 2015 5-19th September 2015 In partnership with Tresco, the RSPB are offering free bird walks on the island. From 10am-4pm, on dates in June and September there will be guided walks to look for wading birds at the Great Pool and Abbey Pool. See linnets and stonechats on the heath lands and garden birds in tranquil surroundings. There’s also the chance of the odd ornithological rarity! Meet up by the entrance to the Abbey Garden (entrance to the garden is not included).
Why not give the Island Office a call on +44 (0)1720 422849? You’ll talk to an islander who knows what’s what. 2015 YEARBOOK | 91
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THE 2015 TRESCO TRIATHLON 21ST JUNE 0.3 MILE SWIM. 12 MILE CYCLE. 3 MILE RU N. MAKING THE TRIATHLON A BEAUTIF U L E X PERIENCE.
T R E S C O.C O.U K
TRESCO TIMES
2015 YEARBOOK
30 YEAR
With Buy Back Guarantee between years 4 and 15
MONDAY CHANGEOVER Barn Flat Week 14 30-Mar Week 21 18-May Week 25 15-Jun Week 43 19-Oct
sleeps 6 £14,080 £21,900 £24,450 £16,800
Bay House Week 7 09-Feb Week 8 16-Feb Week 29 13-Jul
sleeps 6 £7,450 £8,090 £62,500
Curlew Week 30 20-Jul Week 36 31-Aug
sleeps 6 £54,000 £42,750
Driftwood (SG) Week 15 06-Apr Week 24 08-Jun
sleep 6/8 £31,645 £43,080
Farmhouse Week 22 25-May Week 28 06-Jul Week 38 14-Sep
sleeps 10 £42,100 £80,500 £42,500
Flora (FBC) Week 15 06-Apr Week 16 13-Apr
sleeps 6/8 £28,340 £30,210
Flotsam (SG) Week 14 30-Mar Week 20 11-May Week 21 18-May
sleep 6/8 £28,000 £40,405 £43,080
Ivy Cottage Week 9 23-Feb Week 22 25-May Week 32 03-Aug Week 33 10-Aug Week 42 12-Oct Week 43 19-Oct
sleeps 4/5 £7,625 £21,250 £45,250 £45,250 £14,000 £14,000
Maiden Bower Week 18 27-Apr Week 37 07-Sep
sleeps 8 £17,300 £40,675
North End Week 13 23-Mar Week 29 13-Jul
sleeps 6 £15,525 £71,500
Plover Week 12 16-Mar Week 26 22-Jun
sleeps 4 £6,315 £17,150
Reading Room Week 20 11-May Week 22 25-May
sleeps 6 £23,685 £29,250
Snipe Week 28 06-Jul Week 32 03-Aug Week 38 14-Sep
sleeps 2 £22,500 £28,500 £14,100
14-Apr 25-Aug 08-Sep 15-Sep
sleeps 4 £13,325 £45,000 £14,500 £22,420
Doctors Cottage Week 14 31-Mar Week 29 14-Jul Week 43 20-Oct
sleeps 4 £11,540 £45,000 £13,750
Fearless (FBC) Week 16 14-Apr Week 24 09-Jun Week 33 11-Aug
sleeps 6 £30,210 £41,100 £106,500
sleeps 6 £26,000 £24,450 £13,550 £18,075 £16,800 £16,800
Just Home Week 11 11-Mar Week 14 31-Mar Week 27 30-Jun Week 38 15-Sep Week 40 29-Sep
sleeps 6 £11,700 £18,288 £39,750 £35,500 £23,600
Merrick Week 27 30-Jun Week 28 07-Jul
sleeps 8 £40,250 £57,000
Norrard Week 37 08-Sep Week 38 15-Sep Week 39 22-Sep
sleeps 8 £39,995 £39,825 £30,560
Pebble (SG) Week 36 01-Sep
sleeps 2/4 £35,500
Sandy Lane Week 13 24-Mar Week 36 01-Sep
sleeps 6 £15,525 £56,500
Teal Week 21 19-May Week 38 15-Sep
sleeps 4 £14,600 £18,000
Wigeon Week 17 21-Apr Week 21 19-May Week 22 26-May Week 25 16-Jun
sleeps 6 £12,975 £21,900 £25,500 £24,450
17yr* 14yr*
WEDNESDAY CHANGEOVER
TUESDAY CHANGEOVER Beach Week 16 Week 35 Week 37 Week 38
Green Wk 22+23 26-May Week 25 16-Jun Week 37 08-Sep Week 40 29-Sep Week 42 13-Oct Week 43 20-Oct
14yr*
Coastguards Week 11 11-Mar Week 17 22-Apr Week 26 24-Jun Week 27 01-Jul
sleeps 8 £13,475 £19,425 £38,125 £44,500
Coral (SG) Week 15 08-Apr Week 37 09-Sep
sleeps 6/8 £29,685 £59,620
Dolphin Cottage Week 30 22-Jul Week 31 29-Jul
sleeps 6 £61,500 £61,500
Endeavour (FBC) Week 35 26-Aug
sleeps 8/9 £112,000
Gadwall Week 7 11-Feb Week 10 04-Mar Week 28 08-Jul Week 37 09-Sep
sleeps 4 £4,400 £6,100 £28,500 £20,125
Nurses Week 23 03-Jun
sleeps 5 £20,375
Old Mill Week 17 22-Apr Week 22 27-May Week 41 07-Oct
sleeps 8/10 £12,800 22yr * £38,000 £24,525
Pearl (SG) Week 16 15-Apr Week 35 26-Aug Week 38 16-Sep Week 39 23-Sep
sleeps 4/6 £18,850 £95,500 £32,060 £24,295
Pegasus (FBC) Week 30 22-Jul Week 31 29-Jul
sleeps 6 £106,500 £106,500
Puffin Week 35 26-Aug Week 42 14-Oct Week 43 21-Oct Week 45 04-Nov
sleeps 8 £80,000 £24,525 £24,525 £9,225
Thatch Week 17 22-Apr Week 23 03-Jun
sleeps 6 £14,805 £23,685
THURSDAY CHANGEOVER Cliff Cottage Week 12 19-Mar Week 27 02-Jul Week 28 09-Jul Week 40 01-Oct
sleeps 6 £10,850 £34,780 £49,350 £22,963
Colossus (FBC) Week 23 04-Jun Week 36 03-Sep
sleeps 8/10 £41,600 £70,110
Dial Rocks Week 36 03-Sep
sleeps 6 £56,500
Greenside Week 14 02-Apr Week 26 25-Jun
sleeps 8 £21,125 £38,125
Hilltop Week 12 19-Mar Week 26 25-Jun Week 29 16-Jul
sleeps 6 £10,850 £29,550 £62,500
Mincarlo Week 16 16-Apr Week 35 27-Aug
sleeps 8 £21,550 £23,834
Rockpool (SG) Week 15 09-Apr
sleeps 6/8 £29,685
Sail Loft Week 21 21-May Week 36 03-Sep Week 43 22-Oct
sleeps 8 £29,200 £57,000 £22,400
Shoreline Week 21 21-May Week 22 28-May Week 35 27-Aug
sleeps 6 £32,600 £30,600 £61,500
Tern Week 43 22-Oct
sleeps 8 £18,000
Townshill Week 43 22-Oct Week 43 22-Oct
sleeps 6 £22,620 £22,620
FRIDAY CHANGEOVER Abalone (SG) Week 36 28-Aug
sleeps 8/10 £73,515
Garland (FBC) Week 21 15-May Week 41 02-Oct
sleeps 6 £41,100 £31,000
Glen Week 19 02-May Week 29 10-Jul Week 36 28-Aug
sleeps 6 £27,000 £71,500 £56,500
Heron Week 28 03-Jul Week 33 07-Aug
sleeps 6 £43,000 £54,000
Tel +44 (0)1720 422849 Email contactus@tresco.co.uk Visit tresco.co.uk Tresco Timeshare, The Island Office, Tresco, Isles of Scilly TR24 0QQ 94 | 2015 YEARBOOK
13yr*
Kittiwake Week 12 13-Mar Week 17 17-Apr Week 18 24-Apr Week 38 11-Sep Week 41 02-Oct
sleeps 8 £13,900 £19,425 £19,425 £39,825 £24,525
Nautilus (SG) Week 13 20-Mar
sleeps 6/8 £24,030
Pentle House Week 24 05-Jun Week 40 25-Sep
sleeps 8 £30,560 £26,650
Porth Week 23 29-May
sleeps 6 £24,000
Rowesfield Week 18 24-Apr Week 37 04-Sep Week 38 11-Sep Week 40 25-Sep
sleeps 6 £16,800 £40,175 £35,500 £22,100
Sandpiper Week 17 17-Apr Week 18 24-Apr Week 25 12-Jun Week 32 31-Jul Week 32 07-Aug Week 36 28-Aug
sleeps 6 £12,975 £12,975 £24,450 £54,000 £54,000 £42,750
Seaflower (FBC) Week 30 17-Jul Week 31 24-Jul
sleeps 6 £106,500 £106,500
Seaspray Week 11 06-Mar Week 39 18-Sep Week 40 25-Sep
sleeps 6 £12,210 £28,275 £24,705
Smugglers Week 9 20-Feb Week 21 15-May
sleeps 6 £2,295 £19,050
27yrs*
9yr* 21yr*
SATURDAY CHANGEOVER School House Week 21 16-May Week 24 06-Jun Week 36 29-Aug
sleeps 8 £32,600 £30,560 £63,500
TRESCO TIMESHARE IS RCI GOLD CROWN Tresco Timeshare is available in February, March and November on a 10 year deferred payment scheme – call for details. More timeshare weeks (including some summer holiday weeks) are available in both our traditional cottages and the new Flying Boat and Sea Garden Cottages. Please contact Dean Whillis, Timeshare Manager Telephone +44 (0)1720 424111 or email deanwhillis@tresco.co.uk for further details. (SG) – Sea Garden Cottage, (FB) – Flying Boat Cottage. *Asterisked weeks do not include FBC membership or have a Buy Back Guarantee.
TRESCO TIMES
2015 YEARBOOK
TRESCO
POSTAL ADDRESS:
TRESCO
Isles of Scilly Diving School: 422848
The Island Office Tresco The Isles of Scilly TR24 0QQ
Abbey Garden Café: 424108
Isles of Scilly Golf Club: 422692
Abbey Garden Office: 424105 mikenelhams@tresco.co.uk
Isles of Scilly Steamship Company: 424222
Cottages Manager: 424106 (24hr emergency line)
Island Sea Safaris : 422732
contactus@tresco.co.uk Tresco Telephone Directory Dialling code: 01720 If calling from outside the UK, use the international dialling code: +44 and remove first 0 from local dialling code. Island Office: 422849 This is the number to call to enquire about availability or to book accommodation on the island.
Flying Boat Restaurant: 424068 Gallery Tresco: 424925 Harbourmaster: 07778 601237 Hell Bay Hotel (on Bryher): 422947 contactus@hellbay.co.uk New Inn: 423006 Post Office (at the Stores & Delicatessen): 424113
Island Supply: 422388 Pender Shellfish: 422975 Police: 08452 777444/422444 Sailing Centre (St Mary’s): 422060 St Mary’s Boatmen: 423999 St Mary’s Harbourmaster: 422768 St Mary’s Horse Riding Centre: 423855 Scillonia Boatshare: 422702
Ruin Beach Café: 424849
Skybus St Mary’s: 422905
Sailing Centre (Tresco): 424919 (July & August)
Steamship Quay: 424230
Timeshare Manager Dean Whillis: 424111 deanwhillis@tresco.co.uk Tresco Boat Services: 423373 Tresco Spa: 424075 Tresco Stores & Delicatessen: 422806
SCILLY
Taxi (St Mary’s): 422555/422635/422260 Tourist Information on St Mary’s: 422536
MAINLAND National Rail Enquiries: 08457 484950 Skybus Land’s End: 01736 787017
Bennett Boat Hire: 422205
Steamship Freight Bookings: 01736 334249
Bryher Marine Engineering: 423047
Steamship Travel Centre: 08457 105555
Dentist: 422694
Steamship Warehouse: 01736 334236
Doctor: 422628 Hell Bay Hotel (on Bryher): 422947 contactus@hellbay.co.uk
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Hospital: 422392
EMERGENCY Fire/Police/Ambulance/Coastguard: Call 999 in an emergency 2015 YEARBOOK | 95
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KEY 1 King Charles’ Castle 2 Cromwell’s Castle 3 The Sea Garden Cottages The Ruin Beach Café Sailing School 4 St Nicholas’ Church 5 The New Inn Gallery Tresco 6 Bird Hides 7 Blockhouse 8 Monument 9 Tresco Abbey and Garden 10 Valhalla Collection 11 Tresco Stores and Delicatessen Post Office Bike Hire The Island Office Flying Boat Cottages, Bar and Spa 12 New Grimsby Quay 13 Old Grimsby Quay 14 Carn Near Quay
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2015 YEARBOOK
OUR VIEWS ARE CLEAR
2015 YEARBOOK