TRIANGLE TODAY | THE NEWS & OBSERVER
WEDNESDAY, JULY 4, 2018
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CAPTURES SPIRIT OF CENTRAL ITALY Greg Cox for Triangle Today For the better part of the past two decades, the name Cinelli has been synonymous with Italian-American cuisine in the Triangle. Gianni Cinelli moved here from New York in 1998 and opened the first Cinelli’s in Durham in 2001. Brothers Gaitano and Peter soon followed suit with Cinelli’s (same name, but a more casual pizzeria concept) in North Raleigh and Cary. Both of those brothers have since moved on, but Gianni Cinelli stuck around. By his reckoning, he has owned or partnered in 22 restaurants over the years, including Vivo, which remains open on Six Forks Road. The concepts have ranged from family-friendly pizzeria to romantic ristorante, but all have shared a common thread: roots in the Italian-American tra-
dition Cinelli knew while growing up in a first-generation family of restaurateurs in New York. Somewhere along the way, Cinelli began to dream of tracing his culinary roots further back. He wanted to open a restaurant that would serve Italian regional fare with a focus on the cuisine of Central Italy, where his family lived before immigrating to New York in 1965. That dream became reality in February, when Cinelli opened Osteria G in Holly Springs. Cinelli’s renditions of regional classic dishes aren’t slavishly authentic, but they do capture the spirit of the original. The result is good, by and large — sometimes very good — though the kitchen crew are still learning the ropes of cooking dishes rarely seen before in these parts.
Read more at triangletoday.com.
Pan-seared duck breast, blanketed in a cherry sauce that’s brightened with a crisp white wine that takes the place of the customary chianti, is another special destined for the regular menu at Osteria G. Juli Leonard
WEDNESDAY, JULY 4, 2018
fun finder
TRIANGLE TODAY | THE NEWS & OBSERVER
recipe Make the perfect BLT sandwich The BLT from Merritt’s in Chapel Hill is a classic. In general, a BLT is an ideal balance of flavors and textures — of acid to fat, salty to sweet, crisp to tender. File photo
Wednesday, July 4
FESTIVAL FOR THE ENO
Debbie Moose for Triangle Today
Wednesday, July 4
I was plucking lettuce and planting tomatoes in the pots and old green recycling bins-turned-planters that I consider a backyard garden when The Hub arrived with a question:
the restaurant menu specifically stated the use of Duke’s. I was not disappointed, despite a few extraneous and ignorable basil leaves. Cooks are always trying to get a hand in.
“You’ve got lettuce and tomato. When are you going to put in a bacon plant?”
At home, I put mayo on both slices of the bread, enough to lightly cover them.
Wednesday, July 4
I would if I could. Because the BLT is sandwich perfection, all summer between slices.
Bond Park Community Center 801 High House Rd. Cary, NC 27513
It’s an ideal balance of flavors and textures — of acid to fat, salty to sweet, crisp to tender — proving that a dozen ingredients aren’t necessary to make an ideal dish. Sometimes it’s better to back off a little.
For the ingredients, first of all, have plenty of them. Load it on so that you can taste everything, but keep a balance of B and L and T. Yes, we all love the B part, but without enough L and T, the sandwich is just a weird pork slider.
West Point on the Eno 5101 N. Roxboro Rd. Durham, NC 27704
APEX OLDE FASHIONED FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION Historic Downtown Apex 220 N. Salem St. Apex, NC 27502
CARY INDEPENDENCE DAY OLDE TIME CELEBRATION Wednesday, July 4
FIREWORKS EXTRAVAGANZA AT TWEETSIE RAILROAD
http://tweetsie.com/special-events/ fireworks-extravaganza/#details Enjoy the most spectacular fireworks show in the High Country! It’s one of the most popular events in the mountains
Sunday, July 22, 3 p.m.
INTO THE WOODS
Raleigh Little Theatre 301 Pogue St, Raleigh A musical that centers around a childless couple and features some familiar faces such as Cinderella, Rapunzel and Little Red Riding Hood. $15, all ages https://raleighlittletheatre.org/shows/intothe-woods/
Find details for these events and more fun stuff at
kidstownnc.com
A BLT is a simple three-letter statement that, like SOS, needs no elaboration. However, people will try to mess around with it. They might add avocado, and another letter, turning it into a BLAT, which is what a flat tuba sounds like, not a sandwich.
How you layer ingredients on the bread is vital. It’s like building a house: Thought, planning and care result in an appealing structure; while haphazardly slapping materials together leads to mismatched paint in the bathroom and ugly recriminations.
The beauty of a good BLT is its uncomplicated nature. However, still sandwiches run deep. With only five ingredients, every last one of them has got to be good.
The acid of the tomato is a perfect foil for the fat of the bacon, so I like to have those touching. Crisp lettuce provides a textural balance for the soft tomato. Because the bacon already has so much rich flavor, putting it next to the mayo is excessive. I want the lettuce (whole leaves, not shredded) to meet up with the mayo.
Take a roast beef sandwich. Cheese, pickles and onions on top could camouflage meat that looks more like, well, camo. And if the chicken salad is good enough, you might not notice that the bread is less than fresh.
A BLT is an ensemble production, featuring the best summer tomatoes, but you do need ample bacon. I prefer about six slices of bacon with a good smoke flavor, fried crisp and well drained.
With a BLT, there’s nowhere to hide.
Here’s how I build a BLT: lettuce, tomato, bacon, then bacon, tomato, lettuce. All the bacon is in the middle, benefitting from the juicy tomato. Lightly salt the tomatoes before adding the bacon, because tomatoes always need salt.
Let’s start with the bread. You don’t have to insist on organic-brick oven stuff, but it should be decent and fresh. Slices. Remember, the bread merely is the stage for the BLT show. White or whole wheat, your choice, but no chunks or seeds. Lightly toast the bread so that it holds up to the fillings. Now we arrive at the always controversial topic of mayonnaise. I am a Duke’s girl and am not afraid to say so. I suspected that I was in for a good BLT recently when
I firmly believe in my layering method, but however you build your BLT, there’s only one way to eat it – with plenty of napkins.
Find more recipes at triangletoday.com
TRIANGLE TODAY | THE NEWS & OBSERVER
WEDNESDAY, JULY 4, 2018
big screen
‘Uncle Drew’ is pure summer fun
Quantrell D. Colbert/Lionsgate via AP
Katie Walsh (Tribune News Service) for Triangle Today Highly entertaining and even more endearing, the elderly basketball romp “Uncle Drew” is the surprise comedy of the summer. The film, which features beloved NBA stars under layers of old-age makeup and a lead character developed for a series of Pepsi web videos, is just so incredibly strange its genuine humor and heart catch you off guard. Writer Jay Longino and director Charles Stone III craft an underdog story around the character of Uncle Drew, a septuagenarian street baller invented and performed by 26-year-old Boston Celtics point guard Kyrie Irving, who simply channels the cantankerous old player. The film is guaranteed to make Irving a Hollywood star. He’s that charming on screen, even under layers of latex. But “Uncle Drew” has several MVPs who make the movie work. Lil Rel Howery, who played everyone’s favorite TSA agent in “Get Out,” steps easily from the sidekick to the leading man role as Dax. He’s a basketball fan who dreams of running the court at the legendary blacktop tournament Rucker Classic in Harlem. (The $100,000 prize is also tempting.) Dax stays on
the sidelines, coaching, still smarting from a wicked block laid down by his rival, Mookie (an off-the-wall Nick Kroll), as a youth. When Mookie swipes Dax’s star player, team and girl (Tiffany Haddish), enter Uncle Drew. He seems to exist mostly in legends and rumors, storied for his skills and style, though he never made it big after his team broke up and they all disappeared in the ’70s. Now he spends his days schooling “youngbloods” at every playground court in town. When Dax links up with Drew, it’s time for the best part of any sports movie: putting together the team of wacky characters. They hit the road in a retro van to pick up Preacher (Chris Webber), Lights (Reggie Miller), Boots (Nate Robinson) and Big Fella (Shaquille O’Neal). Do these NBA stars ever deliver. The joking, joshing, trash-talking and ad-libbing is nonstop, and it all feels easy and natural. Howery has some of the best humorous asides, and his chemistry with Irving keeps the film on track.
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