TRIANGLE TODAY | THE NEWS & OBSERVER
SUNDAY, JANUARY 6, 2019
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CUCCIOLO OSTERIA’S
AUTHENTIC ITALIAN CUISINE WORTHY OF A CULINARY LOVE AFFAIR Greg Cox for Triangle Today Dear Cucciolo, Forgive me if I’m being too forward in declaring my feelings for you so soon in our relationship. (Dare I call it that? It was mere weeks ago that we first met, and we’ve only seen each other twice so far.) But I like to think I have reason to hope that the feeling is mutual. After all, it was you who first uttered those three little words that I longed to hear. Those words are “the Roman way.” They were right there on your menu, describing your linguine alla carbonara. I can’t begin to tell you how many times I’ve been lured astray by the promise of that dish at other restaurants, only to have my heart broken by sham versions that cheat with cream. We both know that cream has no place in an authentic carbonara. Your menu description was a coy promise that you would not let me down. Oh, how you kept that promise, my dear Cucciolo. Let me count the ways: Al dente pasta, firm but supple in a sauce created by a raw egg cooked by the heat of the pasta. The salty umami of pecorino romano. The earthy funk of guanciale. And the finishing touch, the essential spice note — just a bit of black pepper. Our time together has been all too brief, but it has been enough for me to discover that your charms are not limited to linguine alla carbonara. Or even to pasta, for that matter, though your tagliatelle al pomodoro (ah, that vibrant sauce of fresh tomatoes!) and truffle tajarin (those thin, egg-rich noodles flecked with black truffle!) have shown me that you have just as deft a hand with fresh pastas as with dried. CUCCIOLO OSTERIA 601 W. Main St., Suite C, Durham 984-243-8744 cucciolodurham.com Cuisine: Italian Rating: 4 stars Prices: $$$ Atmosphere: industrial warehouse chic
Ernie Barnes Family Trust
Clockwise from top left: Cucciolo Osteria’s coffee-soaked ladyfingers are nestled between layers of marsala-sweetened mascarpone in a pillowy, cocoa-dusted tiramisu. Cucciolo Osteria serves a variety of bruschetta including roasted grape bruschetta with creamy goat cheese and toasted walnuts, basil tomato with homemade ricotta, burrata and roasted hazelnut with truffle honey and the exotic-sounding baccala mantecato. Cucciolo Osteria’s truffle tajarin presents as thin, egg-rich noodles flecked with black truffle. Juli Leonard
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