TRIANGLE TODAY | THE NEWS & OBSERVER
WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 26, 2018
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FUN FINDER on page 2
G.58 CUISINE
IS ONE OF THE MOST EXCITING NEW RESTAURANTS TO OPEN THIS YEAR Greg Cox for Triangle Today The first time I ate at G.58 Cuisine, early on a Tuesday evening, I was more than a little surprised to find the dining room nearly full. The crowd included a couple of large parties, and there was even some spillover into the adjoining lounge. So you can be sure that, when I returned for a second visit on a Saturday, I made reservations. I needn’t have bothered. The place was nearly empty. At first I was puzzled by this flip-flop of the usual weeknight and weekend dinner crowds. Then it dawned on me. The location, near RTP and the airport, is ideal for the corporate crowd, but hardly a prime night life destination for locals. Open since July, G.58 Cuisine quickly has locked in on one of its target audiences. The other one — which is to say, pretty much the rest of the Triangle — remains elusive. And that means, if you go before word gets around, chances are you’ll be able to get a prime time table at one of the most exciting new Chinese restaurants — no, make that restaurants, period — to open this year. That G.58 Cuisine has set a very high bar for itself is evident the moment you step inside, and find yourself in a space that could, at first blush, easily be taken for an art gallery. Indeed, the stunning floor-to-ceiling bas relief on a wall just inside the entrance, of men scaling a skyscraper, is a physical embodiment of the restaurant’s “the sky’s the limit” philosophy, according to manager Joseph Procida. The dining room is just as dramatic, with decor highlights, including wall-spanning murals and tapestries imported from China, sculptures ranging from jade horse to abstract wire, and an eclectic collection of paintings. Silk lotus chandeliers suspended over tables draped in crisp white linens (with a different fresh flower arrangement on each), serve notice
that the restaurant is just as serious about food as it is about art. The kitchen, staffed by a battery of master chefs brought in from regions all over China, delivers the goods in the form of a menu billed as a “contemporary approach to traditional Chinese cuisine.” On the plate, that translates to artful presentations of a wide variety of dishes — most, but not all, of which will be readily recognizable to a fan of authentic regional Chinese cuisines. Faced with a selection of equally enticing starters, the appetizer sampler neatly solves the dilemma for the first-timer. You get your choice of three, served in traditional blue and white china bowls on a tiered base of carved wood. We went for the tea-smoked chicken, crispy veal with red chiles and peanuts and honey-sweetened lotus root, and were delighted with all three. Alternatively, you’d be forgiven if you couldn’t resist the foie gras mousse: precisely cut blocks of silky liver, each glazed with a translucent layer of apple gelée. Garnished with a lacy black rice cracker and a rivulet of sauce riddled with candied citrus peel, the dish has no Chinese equivalent to my knowledge. But it’s a memorable presentation in keeping with the posh setting Either way, you’ll want to plan on a return visit (or round up a crowd) to explore the dim sum (a streamlined selection that includes scallion noodles and Chinese buns served with sweetened condensed milk), and soup offerings. The Shizitou (aka lion’s head) meatball soup features the most delicate rendition of the classic jumbo pork meatball I’ve ever had, in a broth whose sparkling clarity belies its rich flavor.
Read the full review at triangletoday.com.
Chef Hong Bao Wang prepares to slice the Peking duck at G.58 Cuisine in Morrisville. Juli Leonard G.58 CUISINE 10958 Chapel Hill Road, Morrisville 919-466-8858 g58cuisine.com Cuisine: Chinese Rating: 4 stars Prices: $$-$$$$ Atmosphere: art gallery meets fine dining restaurant Noise level: low/moderate/high Service: attentive and eager to please, needs a little polish