TRIANGLE TODAY | THE NEWS & OBSERVER
WEDNESDAY, MARCH 28, 2018
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Greg Cox for Triangle Today
Food truck owner Rob Henson has taken home prizes from competitions in Apex and Rocky Mount. Juli Leonard
Getting a meal from the BBQ Proper food truck is a little like getting invited to a neighbor’s backyard cookout – a neighbor, that is, who happens to have won a couple of barbecue cookoffs. Owner Rob Henson was kitchen manager and pitmaster for Ladyfingers catering for four years before putting his food truck on the road last spring. He’s taken home prizes from competitions in Apex and Rocky Mount. Don’t let Henson’s South Georgia accent fool you. The man can flat-out cook some North Carolina-style pork. He calls it “Raleigh style,” an apt reference to the city’s location on the bound-
ary between traditional Eastern and Western styles. On the plate (or on the bun), that translates to Boston butts smoked over hickory, then fine-chopped and tossed with a twangy vinegar-based sauce with a touch of ketchup – a hybrid of the two styles that only a pigheaded purist would turn up his nose at. As good as the pork is, Henson’s blue cheese brisket is even better. After smoking the brisket low and slow for eight hours, he coats it with blue cheese crumbles and smokes it for four more. By the time it’s is done, you can barely see traces of the cheese on the outer crust of the meat. But you can taste the flavor all the way through, as it has somehow permeated the meat, giving it an umami funk that calls to mind a dry-aged steak.
BBQ Proper Prices: sandwiches $7-9 meat and two sides $10-13 bbqproper.com
Read the rest of Greg’s review at triangletoday.com.
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TRIANGLE TODAY | THE NEWS & OBSERVER
recipe ULTIMATE BLUE CHEESE DRESSING Fred Thompson for Triangle Today
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MOVIE SCREENING: THE DARK CRYSTALTRIANGLE TODAY’S
TODAY, March 28, Jim Henson and Frank Oz’s 1982 fantasy adventure “The Dark Crystal” will be screened at various Triangle locations as part of the Flashback Cinema series. It presented by shows at Wakefield 10 in Raleigh at 3:30 p.m. and 8 p.m.; Silverspot Cinema in Chapel Hill at 1:15 p.m. and 7:15 p.m.; and Park West 14 Cinemas in Morrisville (call for times). Details: flashbackcinema.net.
FAMILY-FRIENDLY TOURS: ART (HER)STORY
NC Museum of Art kidstown.triangletoday.com Sat., March 31 | 10:30 AM West Building Information Desk Meet some of the girls and women behind and in front of our favorite works of art. Best for kids ages 5-11 and their adult companions.
THE SATURDAY MARKET AT REBUS WORKS
Every Saturday morning behind the shop 301 Kinsey Street, Raleigh This mini farmer’s market features rotating local farmers, brewers, artisans, dog biscuit bakers and food trucks, as well as a few steady staples such as the LoMo Market.
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Chefs can be innovators. Chefs can revitalize neighborhoods. Chefs can contribute to the community. Chefs can be gutsy, especially when they open a restaurant in smaller community. Much like Vivian Howard, and her Chef and the Farmer showplace in Kinston, Kyle Wilkerson took a chance and opened Heirloom, A Poppa Paul Kitchen (a nod to his great-grandfather) in an old department store in downtown Roxboro.
Kyle’s Blue Cheese Dressing from chef Kyle Wilkerson of Heirloom in Roxboro. Fred Thompson
And like Chef Howard’s place, the trip to Roxboro is worth a drive, thanks to his food made of North Carolina-driven ingredients, seasonally changing menus and his way of cooking Southern that’s whimsical, classic and modern. I want to focus on Kyle’s blue cheese dressing. I love this stuff. He shared the recipe with me last year and the next day I grilled some chicken wings, buffaloed them and used the dressing for a dip. The combination was surreal. Instead of a big blob of dressing covering the flavor of the chicken, my bite was balanced between the acidic earthy sourness of the blue cheese and the heat of the wings. This is the ultimate wing experience, so it’s a good recipe to have, whether you make your own wings or order them in. But it’s a salad dressing too. Kyle and his partner, Candace, have tweaked it a bit, her adding more vinegar, but the result is the same: a great dressing. Over a wedge of iceberg lettuce with some diced tomatoes and crumbled bacon, as Kyle serves it at Heirloom, it’s the perfect first course. Most any hearty lettuce will work with this dressing. It does more duty as a dip for raw veggies. It certainty helps a winter tomato salad, can be stirred into mashed potatoes, and a little bit in a cauliflower mash is just plain awesome.
The ingredients are important. Duke’s Mayonnaise and Maple View Buttermilk have definite flavor profiles. You can use other brands, but it won’t be as bright as Kyle’s. Fresh lemon juice and chives are critical and cannot be substituted. Kyle uses a relatively mild blue cheese, but use one that you like. Serve with: Definitely with an iceberg lettuce wedge like Heirloom. Perfect over romaine or Nana Steak-style with Bibb lettuce. The gold standard is with chicken wings, the perfect balance between the dressing and the taste of the chicken. Believe me, you will find plenty of uses. Kyle’s Blue Cheese Dressing 2 cups crumbled blue cheese 1/2 cup Maple View Dairy Buttermilk 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon Texas Pete or to taste 1/2 cup Duke’s Mayonnaise juice of 1/2 lemon 1/4 cup thinly sliced chives Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Combine the blue cheese and buttermilk in a large mixing bowl and let sit for an hour. Add the remaining ingredients and stir until well combined. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours. I like to do this a day ahead. Store refrigerated for up to a week. Yields: 3 cups.
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TRIANGLE TODAY | THE NEWS & OBSERVER
WEDNESDAY, MARCH 28, 2018
NOTEWORTHY DURHAM RESTAURANT OPENINGS Drew Jackson for Triangle Today East Durham Bake Shop — one of the city’s most anticipated openings this year — is finally ready. The shop formerly known as East Durham Pie Company will open after a successful Kickstarter campaign and years of buzz-worthy pies sold around town. The pastry shop of Ali Rudel and Ben Filippo moves into a renovated century-old building at 406 South Driver St. in Durham.
AFTER
THE ATTIC & CRAWL SPACE EXPERTS
The bake shop’s menu includes pie by the slice and daily pastries like croissants, scones and morning buns. Lunch options include savory pot pies and handpies and salads. Rudel will serve seasonal crisps and cobblers, a full coffee bar brewed with Carrboro Coffee beans, plus a variety of tea and fresh squeezed juices. East Durham Bake Shop will be open Tuesday through Friday 7 a.m. to 5 p.m., 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Saturdays and 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Sundays. For more, go to eastdurhambakeshop.com.
BEFORE AFTER
Fast-casual Korean barbecue A new build-your-own Korean barbecue spot opened last week in Durham’s Lakeview development near Duke Hospital. Owner Jay Park’s Itaewon Grill mirrors fast-casual concepts like Chipotle, but does it with Korean barbecue, offering a customizable menu starting from rice, salad or noodle bases. There’s a variety of options, including kimchi and pickled vegetables, four different sauces and a half-dozen proteins, like beef bulgogi, spicy Korean pulled pork or garlic tofu.
BEFORE
Fast-casual has taken hold of the American dining consciousness, touching many different kinds of cuisines and concepts, but doing it with Korean barbecue looks to be new for the Triangle. Itaewon Grill is open for lunch and dinner from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. at 2608 Erwin Road in Durham, #132. Go to itaewongrillkbbq.com.
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