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on the cover: " T h e P e n e lo p e " f r o m s ta n l e y ' s fa r m h o u s e p i z z a , t o pp e d w i t h s m o k e d s p e c k , f r e s h m o z z a r e l l a , a r u g u l a , a n d to m ato e s . p h oto b y w y n n m y e r s .
features
d e pa rtm e nt s
Profile: Jake Silverstein 50
Communit y
What's the Future for Meals on Wheels? 52
Social Hour
20
Profile in Style
92
Column: Kristin Armstrong
30
Behind the Scenes
98
Exposed
32
Inspiration Board
TRIBEZA Talk
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Style Pick
Pizza Night with Tyson Cole 60 French Lessons 66 Austin Tables: TV Dinners 76 Drink Your Dessert 84
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Style
Last Look
Arts
Arts & Entertainment Calendar
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Dining
Artist Spotlight
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Without Reservations
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106 120
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Peached tortilla photo by jessica pages; pastry chef janina o'leary photo by dagny piasecki; austin tables photo by thomas winslow; amos lowe photo by zach anderson; beet sidecar cocktail photo by adam vorhees; monument market photo by kate lesueur.
Contents
Editor’s Letter
I
blame my English major. Thanks to Hemingway and Fitzgerald, I fell in love with the romance of writing, and I thought that a life devoted to food writing, in particular, would be all oysters and Sancerre in Paris and train-ride picnics in the South of France. And you know what? It kind of has been that. For most of my career, cooking and writing have been parallel tracks. As soon as I was old enough to understand that I wanted to write, I began gravitating to jobs in the food industry that would inform my craft and satisfy both loves. In other words, I set out to earn my chops. Along the way, I’ve had some pretty great adventures and more than my share of extraordinary meals. I’ve sold melons and sweet corn at a roadside market in Iowa; cooked at a Catholic rectory for three priests and a monk; waited tables; and tended bar at a popular bistro in New York’s East Village. I spent a few years in Europe, cooking at a château in the South of France and cranking out fresh pasta at an agriturismo (a farmhouse bed-and-breakfast) in Tuscany. These hands-on experiences fueled my desire to write about the people and the stories behind food. As with anyone, my personal history has shaped my current sensibilities. What I love about my position at TRIBEZA is the opportunity to cover all aspects of culture, but let's face it—the food issue is right up my alley. Austin’s red-hot restaurant scene means that our culinary landscape is shifting almost daily. Because the choices we make about food provide a compelling window into our unique culture, the theme of this month’s issue is simply the way we eat now. What do our most creative chefs, sommeliers, brewers, and restaurateurs reveal about our current desires and whims? To shed light on these questions, we talked to some of the most innovative thinkers in town. I’ve written about Tyson Cole several times through the years. He’s become a friend and a trusted industry barometer. As a cookbook author, I know that it’s interesting to talk to chefs somewhere besides their restaurants—new dimensions are revealed! So in “Pizza Night with Tyson Cole” (page 60), we talked about our local food scene while he prepared dinner for his family at home. Beginning in 2005 (with Lulu B’s and Flip Happy, remember?) Austin led the charge with the food truck craze, but what’s its current pulse? In “What's the Future of Meals on Wheels?”(page 52), Elizabeth Winslow revisits the mobile food scene and asks two key players to predict the road ahead. Like other Francophiles, I’ve been anticipating the opening of laV, a gorgeous new restaurant in East Austin. In “French Lessons” (page 66), writer S. Kirk Walsh talks with the restaurant’s talented female crew and discovers how they meld the soulful satisfaction of, say, a perfectly roasted chicken with one of the most sophisticated settings in town. The entire TRIBEZA staff is smitten with partner Vilma Maizate’s impeccable style, so styling her for that feature was a joy (Vilma, you make anything look good!). Shrimp tacos, barbecue, and messy burgers from the Counter Cafe are among the foods that Jake Silverstein (page 50) will miss about life in Austin. On the brink of moving east, the newly minted editor of the New York Times Magazine took time out to chat about his impressive post (thanks Jake, and congrats!). I confess that the way to my heart is not through overt flourishes or ego-driven plates. I’ll choose a wood-fired pizza, wine sipped from a mason jar (I’m talking to you, Stanley’s Farmhouse Pizza!) and good company over a multi-course tasting menu and a dizzying array of small plates any day. Life is complicated enough; I don’t necessarily need to be challenged at the dinner table. For that reason, we honor local artisans who have devoted their days to the noble craft of coffee, beer, killer sandwiches, and pizzas to plan a day around. Thanks to all for making life in Austin more delicious every day.
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Paula Disbrowe paula@tribeza.com
Paula disbrowe photo by wynn myers; hair + makeup by franchska bryant. Martini cart photo by miguel angel. paul qui photo by bill sallans.
In the spirit of brilliant promos, kudos to Larry McGuire and Jeffrey's for their traveling martini wagon (with classical music!) at the recent Waller Creek Picnic. Deana Saukum and Paul Qui stopped by for sips and pics at our ice cream cocktails shoot.
All aboard! Dogs included. With a seat of their own. Not under the seat. Schedule your family vacation, not the kennel. Capital Wings transporting nuzzles anytime, anywhere.
Philanthropic darling & retail magnate of Keepers Menswear, DK & Mike Reynolds
Capital Wings Private Planes & Concierge Stephanie Forbes Sforbes@capwings.com | 512-222-9464 | www.capwings.com MK Marketing | Amber Snow Photography
editor's letter
Tricks of the trade: Robin holds dry ice over the drink in between shots to make sure the glass stays cold and frosty.
Behind the Issue
a b eh i nd t h e sc en e s lo o k at t h i s m o nt h ' s T R I B E Z A p h otos h o ots
Husband and wife photo team Adam Vorhees and Robin Finlay set up our first cocktail shot of the morning.
Food & Wine's Best New Chef Paul Qui and Deana Saukam stopped by our shoot to pose for a couple of portraits (and a selfie or two).
Adam, Robin and our art director, Ashley Horsley check placement and lighting after each shot.
The Beet Sidecar was the favorite drink of the shoot. We couldn't stop sneaking bites of homemade beet ice cream and candied grapefruit rinds.
(Left) Photographer Jessica Pages capturing the energetic guys at Kyoten. (Right) Kyoten's unoffical mascot, a sweet Akita named Baku. The masterminds behind the cocktail recipes, Rachel DelRocco (left) and Monica Glenn (right), made sure each drink was made to perfection. Set up of the cobbler cocktail fixings before the mixing began. The secret ingredient at Qui? House made strawberry-gingerbeer jam.
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P h oto g r a p h y by b i l l s a l l a n s & j e s s i c a pag e s
Our favorite instagram shot of the month: Vilma Mazaite during our dreamy shoot at laV. Follow us on instagram @tribeza.
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BE IN YOUR
ELEMENT IN DOWNTOWN AUSTIN
A u s t i n a r t s + c u lt u r e
PUBLISHER
George T. Elliman EDITOR-in-chief
Paula Disbrowe
art director
Ashley Horsley
Events + Marketing Coordinator
Staley Hawkins
Senior Account ExeCutives
Ashley Beall Andrea Brunner Lindsey Harvey
principals George T. Elliman Chuck Sack Vance Sack Michael Torres Interns Hayley Albrecht Emma Banks Christina Ewin Harrison Robinson
Columnist
Kristin Armstrong Illustrator
Joy Gallagher WRITERs
Emma Banks Jessica Dupuy Jaime Netzer S. Kirk Walsh Elizabeth Winslow
Photographers
Zach Anderson Miguel Angel Kate LeSueur LeAnn Mueller Michael A. Muller Wynn Myers Leah Overstreet Jessica Pages John Pesina Dagny Piasecki Bill Sallans Adam Vorhees Thomas Winslow
mailing address 706a west 34th street austin, texas 78705 ph (512) 474 4711 | fax (512) 474 4715 www.tribeza.com Founded in March 2001, TRIBEZA is Austin's leading locally-owned arts and culture magazine. Printed by CSI Printing and Mailing Copyright @ 2014 by TRIBEZA. All rights reserved. Reproduction, in whole or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher, is prohibited. TRIBEZA is a proud member of the Austin Chamber of Commerce.
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the mark of responsib le forestry
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Social Hour
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TRIBEZA March Music Series: Sideroom Social
TRIBEZA March Music Series: Live at Garage
TRIBEZA kicked off the March Music Series at the candlelit side room
TRIBEZA followed up its first event with Live at Garage on March 13. Tamika
of Billy Reid. The first act of the night was artist-on-the-rise Chris Denny. Act
Jones and Ephron Owens took center stage, with dinner from Winflo Osteria and
two was local favorite Dan Dyer, who has been a staple of the Texas music scene
drinks provided by Deep Eddy Vodka for attendees. Live at Garage coincided
for over 15 years. Clark's Oyster Bar prepared oysters and shrimp toast and
perfectly with South by Southwest, the music event of the year.
drinks were provided by Corona, Modelo Especial and Deep Eddy Vodka. Sideroom Social: 1. Dan Dyer & Christina Shipley 2. JT Van Zandt & Chris Thomas 3. Courtney Barajas & Doug Koury 4. Cheryle Locke & Adrienne Pingel 5. Rachel Horn, Denise Rose & Bryan Hebert Live at Garage: 6. Lindsay Singletary & Meg Fanjoy 7. David Gardner, Hannah Presley & Chauncy James 8. Erika Bonfanti & Jeff Acton 9. Lauren Willson, Alexandra Stewart & Susie Bowen 10. Ephriam Owens
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P h oto g r a p h y by M i g u el a n g el
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TRIBEZA March Music Series: The Get Down
The Getdown finished up TRIBEZA’s three-week music series with musician Dale Watson at the Getaway Motor Club. The Getdown also doubled as TRIBEZA’s 13th birthday party, complete with drinks from Deep Eddy Vodka, Colorado Gold Whiskey, Austin Eastciders, Modelo and Pacifico. Appetizers for guest were provided by El Cubico and The Peached Tortilla.
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Heartbreaker Banquet at Willie Nelson's Ranch
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The Heartbreaker Banquet has become an annual South by Southwest event, hosted at Willie Nelson’s private “Luck, Texas” ranch. This year the daylong lineup combined at array of artists that spanned from Americana rock to indie-folk music, featuring musicians like Shakey Graves, Noah Gunderson, and Sons of Fathers.
Big Hair Country Fair
Hosted at the beautiful Salt Lick pavilion in Driftwood, the Big Hair Country Fair presented by Deep Eddy Vodka is Creative Action's annual spring fundraiser. The event boasted all-you-can-eat BBQ, an open bar, bouffant style hairdos, a vintage photo booth, an auction, and musical entertainment by The Show and Tellers and Waterloo Revival.
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Rare & Fine Wine Auction
Hosted at the Four Seasons hotel, this year's Rare and Fine Wine Auction put on by The Food & Wine Foundation, raised their two-year, matched-cash contribution to more than $130,000 for Dell Children's Medical Center of Central Texas.
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The Getdown: 1. Abby Carney & Courtney Goforth 2. Dale Watson 3. Travis Sutherland & Lauren Bruno 4. Martin Martinez & Tess Wallerstedt Heartbreaker Banquet: 5. Ryan Grametbaur & Beth Bizer 6. Niclas Gillis & Josh Ratner 7. Kristine Alnes & Sabine Engesnes Big Hair: 8. Brandon Ramirez & Kat Richards 9. Bill & Ana Stapleton Rare & Fine Wine Auction: 10. Dean Dresser, Carl Boisvert & Don Neville 11. Mort & Bobbi Topfer 12. Susan Lilly-Delsignore & Marc Delsignore
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P h oto g r a p h y by j o h n p e s i n a , M i g u el a n g el & l e a h ov er s t r ee t
Culinary
“Zauber”
that goes far beyond Bier und Brats.
Texas Hill Country
If you come to historic Fredericksburg anticipating authentic German cuisine, we will not disappoint. But further
“One of the Top 10 Wine Travel Destinations in the World for 2014” — Wine Enthusiast Magazine
exploration will reveal restaurateurs that offer decidedly more diverse menus. Escolar and lobster. Seared duck breast with ginger/ orange glaze. Tender steaks. And very naughty desserts. All complemented by award-winning cabernets, tempranillos, viogniers and rieslings from our numerous vineyards and wineries. Incidentally, “Zauber” is the German word for “magic.” Guten Appetit. ★ VisitFredericksburgTX.com | 866 997 3600
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Austin Film: 1. Custom artwork by Hallie Eubanks 2. Spring Fashions from Kendra Scott 3. Models from Co Star playing cornhole 4. Models from Raven + Lily 5. Ricky Hodge & Mel Martell 6. India Gail & Carly Bieler 7. Justin & Athena Boyd 8. Lick served a sweet cream and berries and salted carmel ice creams 9. Melinda Perez & Krystal Lucero 10. Molly Purnell & Amy Freedberg 11. The dapper dudes at Burro Cheese Kitchen 12. Balloons on the front porch of The French Legation
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P h oto g r a p h y by j o h n p e s i n a
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The Lawn Party
Benefitting Komen Austin and the French Legation Museum, TRIBEZA’s second Lawn Party combined tasty food vendors and fanciful store booths to make for one fun-filled afternoon. Attendees played lawn games, snacked on Gourdoughs, Lick Ice Cream, Hat Creek Burgers, Burro's Cheese Kitchen, Cornucopia, Benji's and Clif Bars, all while shopping spring styles from Ecetera, Etc., Co-Star, Maya Star, Kendra Scott, Purse & Clutch, Raven and Lily, Sunroom and Starling Eyewear.
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The French Legation is a stately example of all things Texas. Perched atop a hill just east of I-35, the 2.5 acre park overlooks downtown Austin with a view that is arguably one of the best in the city. It is at once host of parties, weddings, and private events, as well as museum for French-Texas history and cultural hub for the people of Austin. Director of the museum Noel Freeze says she is the main liaison between the community and the museum. “I help our staff with event and program planning, design temporary exhibits, give guidance over landscaping decisions, and work with the Daughters of the Republic of Texas as they work to restore the historic house at the museum,” Freeze said. “Each day is different, but always very busy.” The French Legation put down roots in Austin in 1839 when the city was established, and 175 years later, it still holds an invaluable place in the heart of Austin.
13. The beautiful ladies of Komen Austin selling Kendra Scott mystery boxes 14. Spring fashions from Maya Star 15. DJ Nabiya de Grace 16. Purse & Clutch's stylish pop-up shop 17. Models from Sunroom 18. The lovely gals at Raven + Lily tribeza.com may 2014
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Any Baby Can Rockin' Roundup
Nonprofit Any Baby Can hosted its 17th annual Rockin’ Roundup on March 29 to raise money for their efforts to improve the lives of Texas infants. The event featured dinner, gambling, a Texas-sized silent auction and music provided by cover band SkyRocket.
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Elizabeth Ann Seton Board Live! Gala
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Held at Camp Mabry under the Austin stars, guest enjoyed a lively cocktail party, elegant dinner buffet, incredible auction packages, and an after-party with DJ Hear No Evil and live entertainment from Robert Earl Keen all benefiting the Seton Community Health Centers and the Sister Gertrude Levy Endowment for the Poor.
Waller Creek Pop-up Picnic
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Waller Creek Conservancy's community-wide picnic raises funds to develop the park that runs through downtown Austin. Purchase a basket from participatinf restaurants like Contigo and St. Phillip, beforehand and arrive the evening of ready for good food, live music, and good vibes.
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Any Baby Can: 1. Tyler & Tara Clifton 2. Margaret Becker & Kat Townsend 3. Casey Sherley & Katie Doyle 4. Trevor & Candice Boehm Seton Gala: 5. Vim & Malini Rajput 6. Janie Brydson & Ashley Covert 7. Samantha & Stuart Bernstein 8. Abby & Casey Ford Waller Creek: 9. Pam Colloff & Andy Brown 10. Lisa Hickey & Amanda Sprague 11. Rebekah & Tyler Dutton 12. Patty Hoffpauir & Lisa Roberts
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P h oto g r a p h y by j o h n p e s i n a & M i g u el a n g el
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Hidden Music
Benefitting Conspirare, the 8th annual Hidden Music featured talents Ruthie Foster, Eliza Gilkyson, and Patrice Pike. The evening included a full open bar, seated wine dinner, silent auction, and concert.
Keith Kreeger Spring Collection
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Urbanspace Interiors launched Keith Kreeger’s spring collection on March 27, serving up locally-crafted treats on his new tableware. The collection is both artful and functional—the perfect combination of luxury and necessity.
Vaca y Vino
The 3rd annual Vaca y Vino presented by Lambert's was hosted at The Bridges Ranch in Wimberley on April 6. Attendees feasted on Argentine-style
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beef and wine, accompanied by live music and locally crafted beers.
Bob Schneider Burden of Proof
Bob Schneider's new album is another pop-folk-rock success for this Austin native. In keeping with his previous albums, Burden of Proof is characterized by musical experimentation and romantic metaphors, singing a tune straight from the heart.
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Hidden Music: 1. Maryam Brown & Rose Reyes 2. Annette Carlozzie, Dan Bullock & Sheila Youngblood 3. Brian Willey & Thao Votang Keith Kreeger: 4. Evangelina & Keith Kreeger 5. Jill Fanette & Sarah Miller 6. Deeyn Rhodes & Tomoko Kuwahara Vaca y Vino: 7. Brett Moore & Lucy Jolis 8. Katie Angotti & Drew Ratcliffe 9. Noel & Will Bridges Bob Schneider: 10. Emma Gordon & Jake Marx 11. Tea Eiland, Dwayne Cooper & Michelle Suggs 12. Merritt Knize & Jonesie Parker
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P h oto g r a p h y by j o h n p e s i n a & M i g u el a n g el
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community
column
Dinner for Two BY K R I STI N ARMSTRO NG I llu s tr ation by Joy G a ll agh er
If I’m not mindful, I can get into a rut with food. I buy the same things, I prepare the same quick meals for my kids (taco night again, my pretties . . . ), and I pack the same lunches. We even frequent the same restaurants. It’s the equivalent of a culinary Groundhog Day. Recently my daughters had evening plans, which allowed me the rare treasure of a night alone with my son, Luke. (It was a weekday, so he was willing to acquiesce to a dinner date with his mother.) I picked him up from practice and told him to clean up and be ready to roll. When he came downstairs, I had one of those moments, a double take of the heart. My beloved boy, the one who used to fit in the crook of my arm, sauntered into the room at fourteen years old and more than six feet tall and 190 pounds. Normally clad in clashing colors of Nike DriFIT fabrics, he shocked me by showing up in jeans, boots, and a very nice Ermenegildo Zegna sweater that he had clearly pilfered from his father’s closet. I closed my lower jaw and said, “Wow. You. Are. Really. Handsome.” He flashed me his new grown-up smile, sans braces, and said he was, as always, starving. When Luke was little we lived in the south of France. He loves the tales about our time together, the good old days before sisters, when he was the chosen only child. I remind him about how he cut his first teeth by gnawing on the end of a baguette. I tell him how he loved the beaches with stones instead of sand, and how he enjoyed going to the outdoor markets and pointing at all the gorgeous flowers and produce, asking the name of everything. He is mystified that he could understand French and English interchangeably. Luke was my main companion, since his dad traveled constantly, so we had an endless stream of chatter between us—his baby talk and my fledgling French. He was my dinner date at some fabulous restaurants and countless charming cafés. I try to explain how Sunday lunches lasted the rest of the day and no one, including
him, was ever in a hurry for them to end. I have the fondest memories of things he can’t remember, and I try to recount them often and well so they come alive for him (and stay alive for me). I decided to honor our shared past by taking him to dinner that night at Justine’s, the popular brasserie on the east side. I should state that dining with Luke is not like taking an ordinary kid to dinner. He likes to try things, a lot of things, so bring your palate—and your wallet. He ordered the steak frites, which is a giant rib-eye with butter sauce on top of a pile of fries. He had two loaves of bread dipped in olive oil while we waited and I sipped a nice Bordeaux. I had the Coquilles St. Jacques Basquaise, scallops that reminded me of the many lunches we shared along the Côte d’Azur. But now, instead of sitting in a stroller or a high chair and waiting for his mother to cut his meat, he holds the door for me. I admit to taking full advantage of the situation. Having dinner alone at a restaurant with my son means he has to talk, ideally engage in dialogue involving multi-word answers and the posing of questions. He can’t stare at his phone, resort to derogatory banter with his sisters, or hurry to clear his plate and head back upstairs. I asked him all kinds of questions, and he asked a few in return. He scoured the dessert menu, and much to my delight chose the crème brûlée (I got one tiny bite and he inhaled the rest). We talked about memories from Europe and dreams for future travel adventures. He made me laugh and made me think. I looked at him with fresh eyes, thinking that he might one day be a decent date for someone after all. The point of dining, after all, is not just addressing the hunger in our stomachs. The act of sharing good food, ambience, and conversation feeds the hunger of the heart—the deep desire to connect and spend time with the people we love the most.
i l lu s t r at i o n by j oy g a l l ag h er For a limite d- e dit i on p r int , c onta c t jo ygall agh e r@g m ail .c om .
tribeza.com may 2014
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community profile
O
From engineer to craft brewer, Amos Lowe traded money for happiness, and he's never looked back.
exposed
Amos Lowe
Au s t i n B eer G a r d en B r e w i n g Co. 32
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riginally from League City, south of Houston, Amos Lowe made his way to Austin as most people do, to earn a degree at the University of Texas. In Lowe’s case, it was one in mechanical engineering, something he put straight to work with a career in commercial construction and design. On the job, Scott Simmons, a colleague of Lowe’s, noticed his affinity for beer and challenged him to make his own at home. “That was the suggestion that changed everything,” says Lowe. “I went over to his place to make a batch with him and I was hooked.” Lowe began brewing beer every week at home, a hobby that ran strong for about ten years. “My engineer friends and I would get out on our driveway and make a batch and drink a batch from the previous week. It got to a point where we were drinking more than we were making, so I had to keep getting bigger systems.” But transitioning from a secure, solid career in engineering to one in brewing took a big leap of faith. He started slowly, by brewing once a week with Brian “Swifty” Peters at Uncle Billy’s Brew and Que, just for a little more experience. When the brewery decided to expand, Lowe was offered a job to run the brewing at the Barton Springs location, but he still wasn’t ready. All along, the Austin Beer Garden Brewing Company (the ABGB) had been a concept brewing—pardon the pun—in his mind. Lowe and Swifty slowly began crafting the business plan, for a few years, in fact, while Lowe continued to toy with the idea of becoming a full-time brewer. It wasn’t until 2010, following a bad day at work, that he finally took the plunge. It just happened to be at the same time he was traveling to Chicago for the Craft Brewers Conference. “I called my wife and said, ‘I’ve got to go brew beer,’ and she said, ‘Go do whatever you have to do.’ It was the best thing I could have ever heard her say,” says Lowe. “I tell people I traded money for happiness and I don’t miss the money one bit.” Once Lowe’s plans were finalized, he gained the added bonus of having Swifty come on board with him as cobrewer. The ABGB opened in August 2013 on West Oltorf in the old Austin World of Rentals space, offering a lineup of ten lagers and ales—five mainstays and five specials that rotate seasonally. In addition to its craft brews, the beer garden offers a small menu of pizzas and sandwiches and hosts a regular calendar of live music. j. du pu y
p h oto g r a p h y by z ac h a n d er s o n
exposed
9 Questions for amos
What can you say about the Texas craft beer scene right now? It is honestly kind of nuts right now. People across the country in general are really into craft beer, and it feels like the overall demographic is just more educated on what good beer is. With the 2013 legislative session, there were laws put in place that allowed for more growth in Texas, and now it seems like everyone’s opening breweries. And not just in Austin. Dallas, Houston, and San Antonio have been booming as well. The number of breweries may be increasing, but how is the quality? Well, some brewers are doing better than others. But I’d say, in general, we’re doing very well. Over time, we’ll see who ends up sticking around. The competition is getting so much better that if you’re not making good beer, you’re going to get weeded out pretty quick. You have to make high-quality beer to sell any. What are the challenges in the industry? Aside from making good beer, you have to figure out how to sell it, which translates to distribution and shelf space. You can make beer all day long, but if you can’t sell it, that’s a problem. We have a brew pub and we can sell our beer on the premises which means we have a built-in customer base with our brewery, with ten faucets, and as long as people enjoy it, we can be successful. But that’s not the case for everyone. What beer or brewery inspired you to become a brewer? The brewer that inspired me was my friend Scott Simmons, who convinced me to start brewing at home. But the brewery I credit for my loving beer so much is Live Oak Brewing Company. I have always loved their Live Oak Pilz. Who are bigger geeks: beer, spirits, or wine guys? I do think some people can be a little too into things. I say just enjoy the beverage. Don’t analyze it and dissect it. I admit, we definitely do that a lot in the
beer world. But I just don’t think that’s important. I love beer. But I love what happens when people share wine, or beer, or spirits together. That’s what matters. If you treat it like it’s an exam, you miss the best part—the socializing. That’s honestly why we’re a brew pub instead of a production brewery. I love seeing people enjoy themselves. What are you drinking when it's not beer? I drink a lot of red wine. In fact, I drink it every day. It’s my preferred beverage. Right now I like Malbec and Spanish and Italian wines. It may sound strange, but it helps keep my palate adjusted. If you’re a brewer and you drink a lot of hoppy beers, I think your palate becomes skewed a little bit. But when I drink red wine at night, it gives me a perfect reset. What styles of beer do you prefer? I love pilsner. It’s a lager-style beer that’s perfect for the hot Texas climate. I love that pilsners are simple, dry and elegant. When they’re good, they’re full of flavor. Before I started ABGB, I’d always order the Live Oak Brewery Pilz. In fact, the guys at the Ginger Man always made fun of me for being in a rut because it’s all I ordered. Ironically, Swifty learned to brew with Chip McElroy at Live Oak. And he’s since taught me how to make good pilsner. I think a lot of breweries have stayed away from lager-style beers like pilsner because they are so mass-produced. For the longest time, everyone just did ales. But lagers are delicious if they’re done well. What types of food do you like best with the beers you make? I don’t get too uppity about food pairings. Especially when it comes to beer. To be honest, I love sandwiches. It’s mainly what we serve at the ABGB. That and pizza. Right now my favorite is a good muffaletta
When it comes to the hot Texas climate, there's only one beer Lowe picks as his all-time favorite, classic lager-style Pilsner.
Amos Lowe
with a cold pilsner. The sandwich is heavy and rich, but the crispness of the beer just cuts right through it. I also love seafood. A lot of people like champagne and oysters, but I like my oysters with—you guessed it—pilsner. What days of the week are you brewing and how long does that process take? What are you doing when you're not brewing? We usually brew on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, which is a six- to eight-hour process in the brewhouse. When I’m not doing that, I like to play the pedal steel guitar. I’ve been playing with a band, Little Mikey and the Soda Jerks, for about seven years, and we always play the Friday happy hour at the ABGB.
May Calendars arts & entertainment
Entertainment Calendar Music BILLY CURRINGTON
May 1, 8pm ACL Live at the Moody Theater DRIVE-BY TRUCKERS WITH JD MCPHERSON
May 1, 7pm Stubb’s BBQ
MUSIC FOR THE SOUL PRESENTED BY K.I.N.G
May 16, 8pm Paramount Theatre LEDISI
May 17, 8pm ACL Live at the Moody Theater JIMMY EAT WORLD
May 18, 7pm Stubb’s BBQ
GIPSY KINGS
May 1, 6:30pm Speakeasy
May 21, 8pm ACL Live at the Moody Theater
TOM JONES
CALLE 13
May 2, 8 pm ACL Live at the Moody Theater LONE STAR JAM
May 3-4 LBJ Library Lawn
HAAM’S CORPORATE BATTLE OF THE BANDS
May 9, 10pm ACL Live at the Moody Theater JAZZ BRUNCH
May 10, 10am Hotel San Jose
INGRID MICHAELSON
May 14, 6pm Stubb’s BBQ
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may 2014 tribeza.com
May 25, 8pm ACL Live at the Moody Theater THE 1975 WITH BAD SUNS
May 30, 8pm Stubb’s BBQ
JIMMY BUFFETT AND THE CORAL REEFER BAND
May 31, 8am Austin 360 Amphitheater
Film AUDIENCE AWARD SERIES: THE GOLDEN SCALLOP
May 14, 7pm Galaxy Highland Theater 10
MADE IN TEXAS: FUTURE WORLD
May 21, 7pm Texas Spirit Theatre LION ARK
May 25 Stateside at the Paramount
Theatre ALO’S THE ELIXIR OF LOVE
May 1-4 Long Center
EARS, EYES + FEET
May 1-4 B. Iden Payne Theatre WAR HORSE
May 6-11 Bass Concert Hall VANYA AND SONIA AND MASHA AND SPIKE
May 28-June 22 Zach Theatre
Comedy MIKE EPPS
ADRIAN PETERSON’S ALL PROS OF COMEDY
RED, HOT & SOUL: THE GREAT ZACHSBY
JOAN RIVERS
2ND ANNUAL TOAST TO THE CURE DERBY DAY
May 16, 12am ACL Live at the Moody Theater May 30, 8pm Paramount Theatre
May 3, 6pm Trinity Hall
AUSTIN HEART BALL
Children
May 3, 7pm Hilton Austin
PINOCCHIO
AL FRESCO ITALIAN FEAST
CAT AND THE HAT
BEST PARTY EVER
May 3-4 Zach Theatre May 3, 11am Zach Theatre
THE SLEEPING BEAUTY
May 9-11 The Long Center
May 6, 7pm Olive & June
May 9, 7pm W Hotel Austin
PARAMOUNT & STATESIDE’S ANNIVERSARY GALA
May 10, 6pm Paramount Theatre
Other LEUKEMIA & LYMPHOMA SOCIETY’S MAN & WOMAN OF THE YEAR GRAND FINALE
May 2, 8pm Bass Concert Hall
May 2, 6:30pm AT&T Conference Center
JERRY SEINFELD
WILDFLOWER CENTER GALA
May 3, 7pm and 9:30pm Bass Concert Hall
May 3 Zach Theatre
May 2, 6:30pm Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center
SWING FOR THE ARC WITH TED CLEMENTS
May 19, 8am Onion Creek Golf Course FREDERICKSBURG CRAWFISH FESTIVAL
May 23-25 Fredericksburg Marktplatz KOMEN AUSTIN PERFECTLY PINK PARTY
May 31, 5:30pm Brazos Hall
BUTLER COMMUNITY SCHOOL
modern design residential + commercial
COME DANCE. HAVE FUN. GET FIT.
DANCE & FITNESS FOR ADULTS BALLETAUSTIN.ORG/COMMUNITY OR CALL 512.501.8704
www.markodomstudio.com
arts & entertainment
C A l e n da r s
Arts Calendar BULLOCK TEXAS STATE HISTORY MUSEUM
The McDonald Observatory: 75 Years of Stargazing Exhibit Opening, May 1 Through June 29 MAY 3 THE CONTEMPORARY AUSTIN
Orly Genger Exhibition Opening, May 3 Through May 31 WALLY WORKMAN GALLERY
Andy Dixon: Pleasure Studies II Reception, 6-8pm Through May 31 MAY 7 DAVIS GALLERY
Second Nature: New works by David Everett and Billy Hassell Artist Talk, 6-8pm Through May 24
Ongoing BLANTON MUSEUM OF ART
Converging Lines: Eva Hesse and Sol Lewitt Through May 18 Perception Unfolds: Looking at Deborah Hay’s Dance Through May 18 Between Mountains and Sea: Arts of the Ancient Andes Through August 17 FLATBED PRESS
Interior World: Etchings by Julie Speed Through May 3 Homage: Works by Spencer Fidler Through May 24 HARRY RANSOM CENTER
The World at War, 1914-1918 Through August 3 WOMEN & THEIR WORK GALLERY
Leslie Wilkes: Optic Verve Through May 18
LORA REYNOLDS GALLERY
Tom Molloy: NATIVE Through May 10
VARIOUS LOCATIONS
West Austin Studio Tour May 10-11 and 17-18
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event pick
Pachanga Latino Music Festival
R
ich Garza saw a hole in the market, so he filled it. Enter the Pachanga Latino Music Festival, a fiesta seven years young that hopes to be representative of Latin music in an industry mostly dominated by American and European indie pop, rock, and electronic bands. This year, the festival has been condensed to one day densily packed with national and international acts, visual arts, and treats for the foodies—adding up to what Garza calls a complete cultural celebration. He hopes to continue to grow the audience for Pachanga, building on what has already become a convivial epicenter for Latinos in Austin. “The Latin audience is such an interesting group and such a diverse mix of people,” Garza says. “We present cultural touch points that unite people and bring them together. This is not just for Hispanics—it’s to present Latin culture that resonates with a general audience as well.” Among this year’s additions to the festival are appearances by national and international bands as well as the local and regional ones, and a taco tour of sorts for VIP guests, inviting VIP badge holders to taste samples from 10 different taco purveyors and two tasting bars. “It would take you hours and hours and miles in the car to experience what we’re bringing together in one place,” Garza says. “This is a way to let people celebrate their culture and heritage and share it with other people.” Garza considers himself more the host of a party than the organizer of a festival. It’s a celebration, and one you won’t want to miss out on. e. banks
poster artwork courtesy of pachanga
MAY 1
sEason ticKEts on salE maY 7 See all three operaS $79 - $290 verdi
gounod
mozart
a masKED ball
romEo & JuliEt
Don giovanni
nov. 8, 13, 16
Jan. 24, 29, fEb. 1
april 25, 30, maY 3
ExpEriEncE thE thrill of opEra: timElEss storiEs, bEautiful music, gorgEous voicEs. at thE long cEntEr.
AustinLyricOpera.org or 512-610-7684 This project is funded and supported in part by the City of Austin through the Economic Development Department/Cultural Arts Division believing an investment in the Arts is an investment in Austin’s future. Visit Austin at NowPlayingAustin.com.
SERVING CENTRAL
M O T O R I Z A T I O N
TEXAS
&
A U T O M A T I O N
S P E C I A L I S T S
‘87
SINCE
SOLAR SCREENS
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AW N I N G S
interior solar screens
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ROLLING SHUTTERS
tel.
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INTERIOR SHADES
512.402.0990
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INSECT SCREENS
www.txsunandshade.com
11813 Bee Caves Rd., Austin, Texas 78738 Showroom Hours: 10-5 M-F & 10-2 Sat.
www.poshpropertiesaustin.com 512.947.9684
museums & galleries
Art Spaces Museums
Hours: Tu–Su 1–5 frenchlegationmuseum.org
The Contemporary austin: laguna gloria
George Washington Carver Museum
3809 W. 35th St. (512) 458 8191 Driscoll Villa hours: Tu–W 12-4, Th-Su 10–4 Grounds hours: M–Sa 9–5, Su 10–5 thecontemporaryaustin.org.
exhibition spotlight
"Converging Lines: Eva Hesse and Sol LeWitt" show at the Blanton
I
t seems the glory days of snail mail are over, but tell that to Blanton Museum curator Veronica Roberts, and she’ll likely disagree. With the opening of the Blanton’s latest exhibit, “Converging Lines: Eva Hesse and Sol Lewitt,” Roberts and her staff have ushered in a refreshing attitude of appreciation for the power of the pen, both among themselves and among the museum’s visitors. Since the exhibit’s launch on February 23, the Blanton has gone through more than 1,000 postcards, which are offered freely to guests, who may send them off as they wish. The exhibit, which focuses on the long, intimate correspondence between artists Hesse and LeWitt, brings an intimacy to the museum that is both unique and intriguing. “The personal aspect of the show—the celebration of a remarkable, supportive friendship—made the exhibition that much more appealing,” Roberts said. “Conceptual art and abstract art can be challenging for people, but there’s a warmth to this show and a sense of play in both artists’ work that I think people are enjoying.” Roberts writes more extensively about the postcards—39 of which are reproduced in the resource room of the exhibit—on the museum’s blog. Her personal commitment, inspired by the artists: sending a postcard a day to her 92-year-old grandmother. It’s rare that such dedication to a love of pen and paper still exists, but for Roberts it’s a no-brainer: “There are very few nice things you can do for a person for 34 cents!” Can’t argue with that. Get inspired while you still can—this don't-miss show closes on May 18. For more information visit blantonmuseum.org. e. banks
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the contemporary austin: Jones Center
700 Congress Ave. (512) 453 5312 Hours: W 12-11, Th-Sa 12-9, Su 12-5 thecontemporaryaustin.org austin galleries
5804 Lookout Mountain Dr.
(512) 495 9363 By Appt. Only austingalleries.com
Blanton Museum of Art
200 E. MLK Jr. Blvd. (512) 471 7324 Hours: Tu– F 10–5, Sa 11–5, Su 1–5 blantonmuseum.org
The Bob Bullock Texas State History Museum
1800 Congress Ave. (512) 936 8746 Hours: M–Sa 9–6, Su 12–6 thestoryoftexas.com Elisabet Ney Museum
304 E. 44th St. (512) 458 2255 Hours: W–Sa 10–5, Su 12–5 ci.austin.tx.us/elisabetney French Legation Museum
802 San Marcos St. (512) 472 8180
1165 Angelina St. (512) 974 4926 Hours: M–Th 10–9, F 10–5:30, Sa 10–4 ci.austin.tx.us/carver Harry Ransom Center
300 E. 21st St. (512) 471 8944 Hours: Tu–W 10–5, Th 10–7, F 10–5, Sa–Su 12–5 hrc.utexas.edu LBJ Library and Museum
2313 Red River St. (512) 721 0200 Hours: M–Su 9–5 lbjlibrary.org
Mexic–Arte Museum
419 Congress Ave. (512) 480 9373 Hours: M–Th 10–6, F–Sa 10–5, Su 12–5 mexic–artemuseum.org O. Henry Museum
409 E. 5th St. (512) 472 1903 Hours: W–Su 12–5
THINKERY Austin Children's Museum
1830 Simond Ave Hours: T-Fri 10-5, Sa-Su 10-6 thinkeryaustin.org Umlauf Sculpture Garden & Museum
605 Robert E. Lee Rd. (512) 445 5582 Hours: W–F 10–4:30, Sa–Su 1–4:30 umlaufsculpture.org
image courtesy of the balnton
arts & entertainment
arts & entertainment
Galleries Art on 5th
3005 S. Lamar Blvd. (512) 481 1111 Hours: M–Sa 10–6 arton5th.com Artworks Gallery
1214 W. 6th St. (512) 472 1550 Hours: M–Sa 10–5 artworksaustin.com
Austin Art Garage
2200 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. J (512) 351-5934 Hours: Tu–Sa 11–6, Su 12–5 austinartgarage.com Austin Art Space Gallery and Studios
7739 North Cross Dr., Ste. Q (512) 771 2868 Hours: F–Sa 11–6 austinartspace.com capital fine art
1214 W. 6th St. (512) 628 1214 Hours: M-Sa 10-5 capitalfineart.com
Creative Research Laboratory
2832 E. MLK Jr. Blvd. (512) 322 2099 Hours: Tu–Sa 12–5 uts.cc.utexas.edu/~crlab Davis Gallery
837 W. 12th St. (512) 477 4929 Hours: M–F 10–6, Sa 10–4 davisgalleryaustin.com
Flatbed Press
2830 E. MLK Jr. Blvd. (512) 477 9328 Hours: M-F 10-5, Sa 10-3 flatbedpress.com Gallery Black Lagoon
4301-A Guadalupe St. (512) 371 8838 Hours: Sa 1-5 galleryblacklagoon.com Gallery Shoal Creek
2832 MLK Jr. Blvd. #3 (512) 454 6671 Hours: Tu–F 11–5, Sa 10–3 galleryshoalcreek.com grayDUCK gallery
608 W. Monroe Dr. (512) 826 5334 Hours: W 11-6, Th 4-8, F-Sa 11-6, Su 12-5 grayduckgallery.com La Peña
227 Congress Ave., #300 (512) 477 6007 Hours: M-F 8-5, Sa 8-3 lapena–austin.org Lora Reynolds Gallery
360 Nueces St., #50 (512) 215 4965 Hours: W-Sa 11-6 lorareynolds.com Lotus Gallery
1009 W. 6th St., #101 (512) 474 1700 Hours: M–Sa 10-6 lotusasianart.com Mondo Gallery
4115 Guadalupe St. Hours: Tu - Sa, 12- 6 mondotees.com
(512) 453 3199 By Appt. Only fluentcollab.org
By appointment only bay6studios.com
The Nancy Wilson
Wally Workman
Scanlan Gallery
Gallery
5305 Bolm Rd., #12 (512) 939 6665 bigmedium.org
6500 St. Stephen’s Dr. (512) 327 1213 Hours: M-F 9-5 sstx.org
1202 W. 6th St. (512) 472 7428 Hours: Tu–Sa 10–5 wallyworkman.com
Okay Mountain
Women & Their Work
Gallery
1619 E. Cesar Chavez St. Sa 1-5 or by appointment (512) 293 5177 okaymountain.com Positive Images
1118 W. 6th St. (512) 472 1831 Hours: M-Sa 10-5, Su 12-4 Russell Collection Fine Art
1137 W. 6th St. (512) 478 4440 Hours: Tu–Sa 10–6 russell–collection.com Stephen L. Clark Gallery
1101 W. 6th St. (512) 477 0828 Hours: Tu–Sa 10–4 stephenlclarkgallery.com studio 10
1011 West Lynn Hours: Tu–Sa 11–5 (512) 236 1333 studiotenarts.com Testsite
502 W. 33rd St.
1710 Lavaca St. (512) 477 1064 Hours: M–F 10–6, Sa 12–5 womenandtheirwork.org Yard Dog
1510 S. Congress Ave. (512) 912 1613 Hours: M–F 11–5, Sa 11–6, Su 12–5 yarddog.com
Alternative Spaces ARTPOST: The Center for Creative Expression
4704 E. Cesar Chavez St. artpostaustin.com Austin Presence
330 Bee Cave Rd., #700 (512) 306 9636 Hours: Tu–F 10–6, Sa 10–4 austinpresence.com Bay6 Gallery & Studios
5305 Bolm Rd. (512) 553 3849
M u s e u m s & Ga l l e r i e s
Big Medium
Clarksville Pottery & Galleries
4001 N. Lamar Blvd., #550 (512) 454 9079 Hours: M-Sa 11-6, Su 1-4 Co-Lab Project Space
613 Allen St. (512) 300 8217 By appointment only colabspace.org farewell Books
913 E. Cesar Chavez St. (512) 476 DOMY Hours: Mon-Sa 12–8, Su 12–7 domystore.com Julia C. Butridge Gallery
1110 Barton Springs Rd. (512) 974 4025 Hours: M–Th 10–9:30, F 10–5:30, Sa 10–4 ci.austin.tx.us/ dougherty/gallery.htm Pump Project Art Complex
702 Shady Ln. (512) 351 8571 pumpproject.org Roi James
3620 Bee Cave Rd., Ste. C
(512) 970 3471 By appointment only roijames.com Space 12
3121 E. 12th St. (512) 524 7128 T-F 10-5 space12.org
Fredericksburg AGAVE GALLERY
208 E. San Antonio St. Hours: M-Sa 10-5 (830) 990 1727 agavegallery.com ARTISANS AT ROCKY HILL
234 W. Main St. (830) 990 8160 Hours: M-Sa 10-5:30, Su 11-3 artisansatrockyhill.com FREDERICKSBURG ART GALLERY
314 E. Main St. (830) 990 2707 Hours: M-Sa 10-5:30, Su 12-5 fbartgallery.com INSIGHT GALLERY
214 W. Main St. (830) 997 9920 Hours: Tu-Sa 10-5:30 insightgallery.com WHISTLE PIK
425 E. Main St. (830) 990 8151 Hours: M-Sa 10-5
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MAY 3 – AUGUST 24, 2014 A Secret Affair: Selections from the Fuhrman Family Collection Matthew Barney, Louise Bourgeois, Maurizio Cattelan, Katharina Fritsch, Robert Gober, Felix Gonzalez-Torres, Subodh Gupta, David Hammons, Jim Hodges, Anish Kapoor, Jim Lambie, Ron Mueck, Juan Muñoz, Marc Quinn, Charles Ray, Thomas Schütte, Yinka Shonibare MBE, Kiki Smith, Gillian Wearing Jones Center and Laguna Gloria
Orly Genger: Current Laguna Gloria
MAY 2, 2014 Members’ Preview of A Secret Affair at the Jones Center 6 – 8P
Jones Center 700 Congress Avenue Austin, Texas 78701 Laguna Gloria 3809 West 35th Street Austin, Texas 78703 thecontemporaryaustin.org Director’s Circle: Michael and Jeanne Klein, Suzanne Deal Booth and David G. Booth, Michael A. Chesser, Johnna and Stephen Jones, The Still Water Foundation, Melba and Ted Whatley, Texas Monthly, Anonymous 2014 Exhibition Sponsors: Deborah Green and Clayton Aynesworth, Susan and Richard Marcus, Jane Schweppe, Diane Land and Steve Adler, Sue Ellen Stavrand and John Harcourt, Don Mullins, Austin Ventures, Amanda and Brad Nelsen, Pedernales Cellars, Gail and Rodney Susholtz, Lora Reynolds and Quincy Lee, Janet and Wilson G. Allen, Shalini Ramanathan and Chris Tomlinson, Teresa and Darrell Windham, Oxford Commercial, Vinson & Elkins LLP, Lindsey and Mark Hanna Additional Support Generously Provided By: ACL Live at The Moody Theater, Pedernales Cellars, Luxe Interiors + Design, The Texas Tribune, Hotel Saint Cecilia, Hotel San Jose, W Austin, Four Seasons Hotel Austin, The Austin Chronicle, KUT/KUTX Support for Orly Genger provided by The Moody Foundation.
This project is funded and supported in part by a grant from the Texas Commission on the Arts and in part by the City of Austin Economic Growth & Redevelopment Services Office/Cultural Arts Division believing an investment in the Arts is an investment in Austin’s future. Visit Austin at NowPlayingAustin.com. Maurizio Cattelan, Frank and Jamie, 2002. Wax and clothes. 75 5/8 inches and 72 1/2 inches. Courtesy the artist and Marian Goodman Gallery.
modern. sophisticated. surprising.
[ Chef Christopher]
[ Chef Plinio ] [ Chef Chris ]
SERIOUS ABOUT TASTE. Our award-winning culinary team invites you to create your own tasting experience. New small plate menus with an Austin style. Plate swapping encouraged. instagram.com/carillonaustin
1900 University Avenue 路 atx TheCarillonRestaurant.com 404.3655 Facebook / The CarillonRestaurant Twitter@CarillonAustin
TRIBEZ A Talk A n i n s i d e r ' s g u i d e to A u s t i n ' s h i d d e n g e m s .
b y l e i g h pat t e r s o n
l o ca l g e m s
gear head: T h r ee u n i q u e co f f ee acc e s s o r i e s wo rt h co n si d er i n g o n So u t h L a m a r
Sta nd By Your Mug : Ceramicist Ryan McKerley on the perfect coffee cup As a maker, I approach every object from a very technical and functional perspective. My perfect mug starts off as a cylinder with almost straight sides, as wide as it is tall. Picture the profile view of this mug filling up a square frame. These proportions create stability with no wasted space. I consider every part of the mug that a person touch-
Kat a nd Rog er Cer a mic Dripper Cup
from Spartan, $42 | spartan-shop.com 215 S. Lamar, Suite D
es. The handle should resemble a strap that would make an excellent waist belt—no bumps or sharp edges—and feels good in your hand. A thin, rounded rim is just as important as the handle in creating a pleasant drinking experience. My perfect mug holds 1.5 cups of coffee. I also want an ultra-smooth interior that’s easy to clean. I make coffee mugs that I would want to use myself. About half the time, I drink coffee out of my work and the rest of the time, I use cups from my large collection of North American studio pottery made by my friends and colleagues. I don’t insist on “handmade.” A well-designed factory-made coffee
Ha ndm ade Oa x aca n Espresso Sipper by Om a r Hern a ndez
at JM DRYGOODS, $18 | jmdrygoods.com 215 S. Lamar, Suite C
mug is always welcome at my house. Lately I have been using two cups that were “made in China.” My Pantone coffee mug (137 C Melon Yellow) always makes me smile in the morning.
Find Ryan’s work at Take Heart (1111 E. 11th Street) Coffee Mug, $35 ryanmckerley.com
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Porcel a in Coffee Scoop
from Mockingbird Domestics, $15 mockingbirddomestics.com | 2151 S. Lamar
p h oto g r a p h y by m i c h a el a . m u l l er
Coffee Q+A
Jenny Mulder Owner, Sister Coffee
sean henry Owner, Houndstooth Coffee
What's your favorite brewing method?
While I use the pour-over brewing method at Sister, at home I like the French press. It might not be as refined or even taste as good, but it’s simple and reminds me of going camping with my family.
It’s as seasonal as the coffees I like: I was into the KONE system for the Chemex for a while, then we got some new French presses with a finer filter and I loved the ease and taste of those.
Espresso and AeroPress
What piece of coffee-brewing equipment do you swear by?
If you want a dramatic improvement in your coffee, grind your beans right before you make your coffee and use a nice grinder. You don't need to spend hundreds of dollars; the Hario hand-crank grinder is a great starting point and only costs about $40.
A great grinder can do so much for really dialing in your coffee. At our store we have three different types of grinders, each tuned to a specific purpose—espresso, bulk grinding, and by-the-cup options.
Mazzer Robur E espresso grinder. Those things kill it.
What's your signature drink?
NOLA iced coffee: cold-brewed with chicory, sweetened just a bit with homemade simple syrup and served with milk ($3.50)
I’d say making coffee for my wife. Not that I do anything different than usual, but it is something that I enjoy doing for her. Even when she gets up before me, she’ll wait for me to make the coffee . . . and I like that.
It’s more of two beverages served side by side. My buddy Wesley Borden was feeling like 10 miles of bad road. Came by the Brew and Brew and said, “Gimme something awesome, stat.” It was 9 a.m. Made him a cortado with Flat Track Kenya Kakai, poured him half a snifter of Petrus Aged Pale. Justin Cox saw it and said, “Well, that’s gotta be called the Brew and Brew,” so it stuck as an off-menu item.
What's the proper amount of time to wait post-boil to pour over?
You don't want to pour boiling water on your ground beans, but you want the water to be almost boiling; around 190-200 degrees. After the kettle boils I pull it off the heat and wait around 30 seconds before starting the pour.
Ideally about 205 is a great brewing temp. Lots of kettles come with holes in the top so you can use a thermometer. But, in terms of post-boiling, once the big bubbles stop bouncing around.
Even at home it is always a good plan to know the temp of your water. I generally brew my pour-overs at 209 and my AeroPresses have been varying a bit, from 185-201 degrees to taste.
Go-to bag of beans?
Blue Bottle's Three Africans ($9.50 for 8 ounces). It's a blend of coffee from Uganda and Ethiopia, and it's the crowd pleaser of Sister. It's the bag I give as gifts as it will hold up nicely in any brewing method.
Life's too short to settle for coffee that's last year's crop or dull in flavor: Right now I'm really into Tweed's newly arrived YirgZ, a washed Yirgacheffe from Ethiopia ($17 for 12 ounces).
Give me one piece of advice for making a better cup of coffee at home.
Get things as fresh as possible. Check the roast date on your beans (you'll get the best flavors 3-10 days after the roast date), grind your coffee right before you brew, and don't let your coffee get old sitting in a coffee urn.
Create a rhythm that's good for you. Lots of people try to make things complicated and then don't end up doing any of them.
Sisterevery thing.com
Houndstoothcoffee.com
matt bollick Co-Owner, Flat Track Coffee
Anything exciting really. There is so much wonderful coffee out there.
Spend the money and buy a nice grinder. You will be so happy that you did. Also, take your time. Brewing coffee is fun. It's a beautiful part of your day.
Fl attr ackcoffee.com
tribeza.com may 2014
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Collage Studio
DESIGN PORTRAIT.
Sophie is in love with Ray and Contemporary Art. Ray is designed by Antonio Citterio. www.bebitalia.com
Scott + Cooner Austin Showroom - 115 W. 8th Street Austin Texas 512 480 0436 - www.scottcooner.com
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S h r i m p ta c o s , b a r b e c u e d b r i s k e t, a n d h i s f o r m e r s ta f f at T e x a s M o n t h ly a r e among the things S i lv e r s t e i n w i l l m i ss about life in Austin.
Former Texas Monthly Editor Jake Silverstein
Takes on Manhattan and the World’s Most Famous Newsroom Q & A b y Pa u l a D i s b r o w e p h oto g r a p h y b y l e a n n m u e l l e r
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A
Community p r o f i l e fter a wide-ranging search that
Are you working on a plan to clone Times contributor
lot about the power of storytelling. Working with
took months, on March 28 the
Michael Lewis so he can write every week?
great writers like Katy Vine, John Spong, Mike
New York Times announced that
I’m hoping my good friends at A&M will handle
Hall, Mimi Swartz, Pam Colloff, Sam Gwynne,
Jake Silverstein, who has served as
that for me.
Nate Blakeslee, and the whole crew—it has really
Is there a writer or columnist, not currently on the staff,
shaped how I think about narratives. I’ve honest-
the editor of Texas Monthly since
2008, would take the helm of the New York Times Magazine. His local fans and staff mourned the announcement (“totally depressed,” an editor friend e-mailed), and Emmis Publishing, parent company of Texas Monthly, cast a bit of a pall on his departure by filing suit against The New York Times Company for allegedly breaching his contract with Emmis. They have reason to grieve—under Silverstein’s charge, Texas Monthly flourished and was nominated for 12 National Magazine Awards and won four, in-
who is a model for the kind of work you want to bring to the magazine? I tend to think that the best writers aren’t models of other writers or of types of work. What makes them great is the singularity of their voices. I will say that I intend to publish as many of these kinds of voices as I can. I love writers the way kids love candy. Which three types of stories are we going to see much less of?
ly learned more from Skip Hollandsworth than I could have from any journalism school. There’s something else, too. Texas Monthly as a whole— the spirit of the place that was instilled by Mike Levy and imparted to me by Evan Smith—has taught me something even more valuable: how to create the conditions under which greatness can be achieved. Mike demanded greatness and so did Evan, but they did it in a menschy, familial, high-spirited way that coaxed the best out of
I’m going to refrain from answering “what’s next?”
everyone around. Texas Monthly is a truly special
ting features like “The 50 Best BBQ Joints . . . in
questions until I’ve actually started.
place. It’s a unique place. It’s a fun place. And if
the World!,” were nominated for a 2014 National
Besides finding the bathroom, what’s on your short
I can carry just a small portion of that with me
list for your first day in Renzo Piano’s New York Times
wherever I go I’ll be lucky.
cluding the general excellence prize. Attention-get-
Magazine Award. In the midst of his transition, just before he headed east, Silverstein kindly took time to sit down with TRIBEZA and discuss his move. We’re sorry to see his creative vision leave Austin, but excited about the dust that he will surely kick up in Manhattan. First off, hearty congrats on your new post! I imagine it’s pretty difficult to turn down the New York Times. Did you jump at the opportunity, or did this move require some serious deliberating? It was a tough decision. Leaving Austin, leaving Texas, and leaving Texas Monthly is not something I had been planning on doing at all. I love
Building? Get Will Shortz to start giving me the answers to the Saturday crossword on Fridays. magazine closer to the newsroom—can you elaborate
Mex. Also the Baja Shrimp Taco at Torchy’s. Royal
on that?
Blue’s soups. Qui. The Counter Café. Fonda San
Not really. I don’t mean to be coy, but it would be
Miguel. And did I mention barbecue?
presumptuous of me to outline plans for this before I’m actually on the job. What I’ll say is that the prospect of working closely with the greatest newsroom on earth is incredibly exciting to me. I’m still pinching myself about that.
this is just such an exciting opportunity that we
you met your wife. How did the city prepare you for
couldn’t pass it up.
your role at Texas Monthly? In turn, how have six years
neighborhood. How will you channel your inner green belt in Midtown? Probably by living in Jersey.
dream about from your desk on Eighth Avenue? I’ll miss all barbecue and all above-average Tex-
it here. So it took a lot of thought, but in the end,
about how much you liked your sleepy Brykerwoods
but what tacos (or restaurants) are you going to
With your appointment, the Times plans to pull the
You spent a chapter in NYC in the early nineties, when
When TRIBEZA featured you last July, you talked
Sure, you’re heading to the land of enviable bagels,
at TM prepared you for the New York Times Magazine? One thing always leads to another. Last time I was in New York I was working at Harper’s, and that certainly helped prepare me for the kind of literary longform journalism we practice at Texas Monthly. My time here (eight years actually) taught me a
Will you lament a lack of brisket features (and/or do you anticipate a flood of résumés applying for the position of “barbecue editor”)? Applications have already been coming in via social media. Apparently Daniel Vaughn was onto something. Would you wager that there’s another Texas chapter on your horizon? For sure. We still have a crumbling old adobe house in Marfa that will keep us theoretically tied to Texas for the foreseeable future. And the people at Texas Monthly are family to me and always will be. I’ll be around. tribeza.com
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What’s the FuturE of Meals on Wheels? b y e l i z a b e t h w i n s lo w | p h o to g r a p h y b y j e s s i c a pa g e s
Has the food truck craze run its course, or is it just ramping up? T w o e x a m p l e s — a n e w b i e a n d a v e t e r a n — fa c e o f f to p r e d i c t t h e f u t u r e o f t h e “ t r a i l e r a u n t. ”
52
Welcome to the revolution. Kyoten’s Zen gar-
able tacos sold from the back of a truck at
den dining “room” is set with handmade
the construction site mere blocks away, but
wooden tables, low, flickering lamps, and
in the past five years, Austin has indeed been
a ceiling of stars in a twilit sky. The food is
witness to an uprising the likes of which our
astonishingly good—cured, marinated, and
culinary community hasn’t seen since the 1841
pressed Japanese mackerel sushi topped with
Pig War at the French Legation. From the
a thin film of kombu, silky handmade tofu in
humble and practical beginnings of our mo-
a sweet soy dashi, butter mochi with balsamic
bile food scene, we’ve eaten French crepes and
cherries and vanilla-kirsch cream. It’s almost
corpulent doughnuts from Airstream trailers;
impossible to imagine that Otto Phan’s con-
Indian dosas and cream-filled cupcakes on
cept is a direct descendant of the question-
South Congress; meticulously sourced farm-
may 2014 tribeza.com
Otto Phan, Leo Rodriguez and James Maiden opened KyĹ?ten (Kee-Ohten), Austin’s only sushi trailer in the heart of E 6th.
to-trailer duck eggs in a parking lot; and pizza from a wood-burning oven on wheels. The Peached Tortilla’s Eric Silverstein has been part of the scene since its early days. Full of hopes and dreams and a fiery yearning to make his mark with the recipes he grew up eating in Atlanta, he quit his job as an attorney in 2010 and hit the road for Texas with a few dollars in his pocket and an idea for a brand
K yōt e n
he hoped might be scalable. In the years since, his trucks have come to define what’s best about food trucks in Austin: inventive food (think kimchi arancini balls, bánh mi tacos, and sweet and spicy Korean wings), a visually compelling brand, and competent, friendly service. Four years in, he’s poised to open the brick-and-mortar that’s been part of his plan from the beginning. What does his particular case study reveal about the viability and longevity of food trucks? Now, in 2014, after tearing down the walls of culinary convention, where do we find ourselves? In the rubble of a dead-end scene that trades inventive cuisine for varying degres of quality and failed business plans? Or on the cusp of a new world order, where lower margins and overhead leave space for entre-
K y ot e n ’ s g a n g o f f o u r : Ot t o Ph a n , J a m e s M a i d e n , L e o R o d r i g u e z , a n d B a k u t h e r e s i d e n t A k i ta , n a m e d f o r t h e m y t h i c a l J a pa n e s e c r e at u r e w h o c o n sumes nightmares.
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preneurial vision and creativity? Two popular players (with diametrically opposed views of the industry) speculate on the road ahead.
Three of Kyoten’s signature dishes: Battera, a cured, marinated pressed mackerel sushi, handmade silken tofu with sweet soy dashi and butter mochi with balsamic cherries and vanilla kirsch cream.
K yōt e n
with what the other was doing. Leo went on to
How did you make the decision to go with a per-
Kyoten serves ingredient-driven Japanese
Sushi A-Go-Go, Kome, and Ramen Tatsu-Ya,
manent location with so much atmosphere for
food with a Jiro-like focus on rice. The miso
and I spent some time in New York at Masa
Kyoten?
soup is made with the lees from sake-making,
and Nobu. We’re both sushi rats, recycled
We had the trailer already. Once we started
and rice bowls and sushi are based on a rice
again and again at a bunch of different places.
talking about where to put it, we couldn’t re-
recipe perfected over years and impossible
When I came back to Austin, we reconnected
ally agree on the location. I didn’t want to go
to translate. Even the dessert—handcrafted
and started talking ideas.
into a trailer park because I didn’t want our
butter mochi—is made from sweet, starchy
I was pretty burned out from New York. I
food to be equated with jalapeño poppers. We
pounded rice. The atmosphere is stylish and
thought maybe I would invest in Leo and we’d
are not mid-level trailer food. I wanted to of-
lovely—the trailer sits in a Zen garden with
do something small. As we talked, our ideas
fer the best sushi in Austin. Leo didn’t want
raked gravel, a fire pit, and swinging fairy
grew and grew, and somewhere in there I got
to go behind a bar—he felt like we’d just be
lights and lanterns.
my mojo back.
serving drunk people out in the smoking sec-
How did the idea for Kyoten evolve?
I was working at Uchi—it’s the most coveted
Leo and I worked together at Imperia. We
job in Austin. I thought I would stay there and
went our separate ways a few years ago, but
we’d do this project on the side, but this idea got
always remained “frenemies,” each keeping up
big enough that I had to leave to open it.
tion. So I told him, “If you can think of a better idea, go out and get it.” One day, I was driving past Burro Cheese Kitchen on South Lamar (another semi-per-
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Almost four years after opening his first food t r u c k , Th e P e a c h e d To r t i l l a f o u n d e r E r i c S i lv e r s t e i n s ta n d s i n t h e s pa c e t h at w i l l b e Th e P e a c h e d To r t i l l a’ s b r i c k a n d m o r ta r r e s ta u r a n t.
manent, stylish “traileraunt” built in a ship-
be putting out the exact same menu. The only
make it. What makes the difference?
ping container), and I thought, “That’s it!”
thing I’m missing is the ability to sell alcohol.
The “mobile food” business model is really
Leo was over here on East Sixth looking at a
What can you do here that you couldn’t do in a
challenging. It’s not a real business. The own-
possible location behind a bar and discovered
brick-and-mortar?
er does everything—if you can’t afford to pay
this lot. We called the owner, who happens to
From the very beginning, we’ve gotten consis-
people, what kind of model is that? Because
be as picky as we are, and struck a deal. Our
tent five-star Yelp ratings because I get to see
everyone with a few thousand bucks to fund
third partner is James Maiden—he has exten-
everything. If anything is messed up, I see it
their dream is jumping into the trailer busi-
sive construction experience. James and Leo
and I can fix it. There’s an immediate connec-
ness, and because permits for actual street
built out everything you see on our lot with
tion to both food and service in this context.
vending in Austin are almost impossible to
their own hands.
Besides the Zen garden dining area, what’s dif-
get and really expensive, demand for spaces
What’s next?
ferent about Kyoten?
is really high. The supply is limited, so rent is
This is it. This concept isn’t a stepping-stone
Chef-driven trailers are a rarity. Kyoten is to-
ridiculously expensive. The smarter the op-
to a brick-and-mortar or some other business
tally ingredient-driven. We source the best fish,
erators are, the better the deals are, but not
plan. It’s not about branding or menu devel-
all of it sustainably harvested. There are lots of
everybody thinks strategically. There are a lot
opment. We are going to stay here and devel-
things we don’t offer because they are not sus-
of hungry operators out there, willing to take
op this concept. As far as I’m concerned, we
tainable—unagi and bluefin tuna, for example.
any deal thrown out to them.
are only 50 percent of the way there, but it’s
Unfortunately, doing it right takes a tremen-
I’m not building a scalable concept. Kyoten
The Peached Tortilla serves “thought-out,
dous amount of hard work and dedication.
is not designed to live without us. I’m the only
modernized Asian food with a Southern twist.”
And you have to be smart. For the long haul,
one who knows how to make rice. The process
The new brick-and-mortar, designed by Kevin
you can’t have a family, you can’t have a signif-
isn’t even written down. This is about quali-
Stewart and slated to open on north Burnet
icant other, you can’t have much of a life out-
ty and the best sushi in Austin. I didn’t leave
Road in the fall of this year, will fill a niche
side the truck. That rules out a lot of people.
Uchi to open the Torchy’s Tacos of sushi.
for affordable, hip dining options for families
How has your business model changed since you
How do you deliver this menu from a trailer?
with a menu of rice bowls, small plates, and
started?
We use Ramen Tatsu-Ya’s commissary kitch-
street-to-table fare.
We don’t actually do much mobile vending
en—we don’t need a six-burner stove or a 10-
Several concepts started out mobile and moved
anymore. Most of our money comes from ca-
man kitchen for our menu. I can do incredible
into wildly successful brick-and-mortar busi-
tering and special events. It’s hard to make a
sushi anywhere. If I had a brick-and-mortar, I’d
nesses. But lots of trucks and trailers don’t
living with mobile vending because we’re not
all going to happen right here, in this trailer.
56
Perception is very different from reality.
The Peached Tortilla
may 2014 tribeza.com
Eric posing in his n e w, u n d e r c o n s t r u c t i o n lo c at i o n t h at i s b e i n g
able to collect on high-margin items like alcohol.
d e s i g n e d b y lo c a l
After a year and a half of not paying myself, I had
a r c h i t e c t, K e v i n s t e w a r t.
to get creative with this business model. We rebranded—I hired a high-end graphic designer and committed to doing way more than what we could do from the truck. We have put a lot of resources into catering sales. I’ll never get rid of the trucks, though. In fact, we might get another one soon. They will always be an important piece of our branding. People want trucks at their weddings and high-end events. As long as the mobile food scene stays hot, we will keep getting asked to special events where we can make money. Do you see any big shifts coming in the near future? No, not really. I think there will always be new people coming in. For most people, it’s a dead end, but the barriers to entry are low, and hopes and dreams are powerful. If you could see your hopes and dreams realized for $25,000, wouldn’t you go for it? What would you change about the past four years? I don’t think I’d do anything different. When I quit my job and moved to Austin, I was so high on myself and my idea I thought I’d be in a brickand-mortar in 12 months. Well, here I am, 42 months in. I think as a community, it’s made our culinary scene more creative, but I don’t know that it’s brought much in the way of quality to our community.
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The Peached Tortilla truck at the Cedar farmer’s market (before the giant line formed). An assortment of deliciousfries: Belgian, Bacon Jam and Sweet Potato. Manager Beto Solis serving another happy customer. The BBQ brisket and crunchy fish tacos are always a hit.
the peached tortilla
A u s t i n ’ s acc l a i m e d c h e f d i s h e s o n o u r r e d - h ot f o o d s c e n e , w h at ’ s n e x t f o r T e a m U c h i , a n d fac i n g t h e u lt i m at e c h a l l e n g e— co o k i n g f o r fa m i ly. 60
may 2014 tribeza.com
pizza night with tyson cole by pa u l a d i s b r o w e
p h oto g r a p h y by w y n n m y e r s
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The chef brushes crusts with olive oil while mini sous chefs (Amelia and Larkin) plan their attack. A flurry of pies ensue, Rebekkah serves slices and then the proud bakers gather around the table.
Tyson Cole is expediting dinner, but not in his usual fashion. It’s a cool spring evening and the chef is spending a night off orchestrating pizza service for his five favorite girls. Rebekkah, his pretty wife, sets the table and sips a glass of red wine. Wound up by the audience, Esther, their Labradoodle, makes a few mad dashes through the kitchen, her nails sliding on the slick tile. Although the odds are against him, Cole attempts to impart some culinary wisdom to his four-year-old daughter, Amelia. “I think too many cucumber slices might water down your pizza, honey.” Amelia does not welcome his suggestion. While Cole’s daughters (Aubrie, 10, Larkin, 6, and Amelia) busy themselves with small bowls of colorful toppings (sweet peppers, fresh mozzarella, mushrooms, and chive blossoms), the chef drizzles impromptu antipasti of artichoke hearts, sliced apples, and strawberries with olive oil and a sprinkling of porcini salt from Williams-Sonoma (“my favorite new condiment,” Cole says, handing me a plate). The simple but unexpected confluence of sweet and savory is just the sort of culinary risk taking that first put Uchi—and Austin’s emerging food scene—on the map when it opened in 2003. You might say that Cole’s career has been forged through juxtapositions. He’s the white guy who speaks Japanese and trained under sushi masters. He created a sashimi mecca smack in the middle of landlocked Texas. And
his signature pairings of global ingredients with traditional Japanese flavors (think goat cheese, citrus oil, and raw sea bass) attracted talent like chef Paul Qui, and a host of others, who have since passed through his doors and infiltrated kitchens throughout Austin. And even when he’s making smiley face pizzas with rounds of pepperoni and basil leaves, it’s hard to miss the precise hands and attention to detail that have earned him a Food & Wine Best New Chef 2005 recognition and a James Beard Award for Best Chef Southwest in 2011. These days Cole is rolling with life’s transitions. He is moving from his West Lake home for another location that is closer to his kids’ school and promises a less painful commute. Partnerships with the Austin Food & Wine Festival have made him a high-profile ambassador of the local food scene. And later this year he’ll open St. Philip, an Italian restaurant and bakery with chef Philip Speer. While pies bubbled and crisped in the oven, we chatted about food and family. Has parenting influenced your approach to food? Absolutely, making food is all about sustenance and health. I’ve always been focused on that, but having children really reinforces it. Cooking is about kindness, generosity, and doing the best with what you’ve got. In that way cooking is in tandem with having both kids and guests. You noticed that the pizzas your daughters made
are indicative of their personalities. I guess that’s true of all cooks, right? People’s personalities do come through in what they like to eat, whether they are adventurous or conservative. Larkin will eat any color, while my oldest is terrified of color. She likes to eat earth tones and beiges. You see that with guests at the restaurant too. We try to push them and expand their horizons, while still allowing them to feel comfortable about being there. It must be difficult to leave the streamlined efficiency of your restaurants for the inevitable chaos of cooking with young kids. Restaurant execution is so hard—don’t get me wrong, but it’s so well achieved because it’s so very planned, and the preparation is so specific. It’s much more chaotic at the house, figuring out each day what the kids are going to like, or how many snacks they’ve had and if they’re going to eat at all. It’s a moving target. I returned to Uchi a few weeks ago and had an amazing experience--both the food and the service were extraordinary. How have you kept the restaurant vibrant and on top of its game? Uchi is better than it’s ever been. Both the kitchen staff and the front-of-house staff are killing it. The reputation that we’ve built has allowed us to attract really great talent. Believe it or not, upwards of 30 percent of our guests are first-timers. We know there’s a whole lot of people who haven’t been to Uchi. Austin is growing so quickly that the playing field changes by the day. There are so many tribeza.com
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new people here, and so many new places to try. In a way that’s our favorite guest—we get to say welcome, nice to meet you, let us feed you dinner. In my opinion, Austin can err on the side of putting high concept before solid, back-of-house training. Any thoughts on that? Hospitality is not about pressed linens, it’s about creating a connection and making customers feel welcome. Budding restaurateurs tend to wrap their minds around a concept that appeals to them. All too often, they love the idea of it and don’t think through the steps that will make it successful. That’s the hardest part—understanding how you’re going to hire, train, etc. It’s hard as a beginner in the field to connect all the dots. What did Uchiko teach you about the local food scene? That we were presumptuous to think that we could move uptown and instantly share Uchi’s fan base. We learned that Austin is somewhat provincial, and not everyone in North Central was immediately on board. People don’t necessarily venture beyond their zip codes. It took a while, and the first year was rough, but we eventually found our local audience. Today we really focus on the neighborhood. Those locals are our favorite guests, and the ones we hope become regulars. What are three dishes you can’t take off the menu? At Uchi it’s tuna and goat cheese, hamachi cure, and peanut butter semifreddo. A lot of big-name chefs and restaurateurs are descending on Austin. How will those outside influences meld with Austin’s “keeping it local” food scene? The smart people that are coming here are interested in understanding and fitting into our community. Danny Meyer and his concept “Shake Shack” (poised to open on South Lamar later this year) is an example. People coming here just to make quick cash will not survive because of the incredible competition
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we have now. What are a few of your current ingredient obsessions? Green almonds and pears. I love the versatility of pears—they’re all over my menu. The almonds are incredibly seasonal, but they are extradordinary. There’s nothing like opening a husk and finding a fresh almond that’s plump and juicy. What’s your perfect meal these days? I’m pretty simple--a great salad and roasted chicken. Your next venture is St. Philip, with chef Philip Speer. What can we expect? St. Philip will be a restaurant and bakery. We’re testing the pastries and pizza crusts now, and they’re phenomenal. We’ll offer different types of experiences that we’ll serve at different times of the day to an underserved area. The exciting thing for us is to try our hand at something entirely new, an Italian concept. The traffic just prompted you to move from your home in West Lake to South Austin. What’s the secret to avoiding road rage in growing Austin? Keeping a tighter orbit to work and home, and being able to drive places at off-peak times. Also, having lived here for more than 20 years, I know the secret shortcuts. You confessed that your family are your toughest critics. How is that so? In my restaurants, the people who walk in the door are already on board with what we do. We’d have to work hard to disappoint them. When you cook for your family, for the people you love, the emotional stakes are so much higher. Disappointing them has a much greater impact. And yet, there’s no place like home, right? It’s the most fulfilling place to cook because there are no rules, no sous chefs, and I have complete creative freedom to cook whatever I want. Of course, the real beauty of it is cooking
Happy Hours: For Cole a nights off-the-clock mean time for back yard tomfoolery and the pleasure of cooking for people you love.
French
Lessons
b y S. k i r k wa l s h | p h oto g r a p h y by dag n y p i a s e c k i s t y l i n g b y a s h l e y h o r s l e y | h a i r + m a k e u p by l i n d s e y h a r v e y
W i t h a s u b t l e P r o v e n รง a l p a l e t t e a n d a d m i r a b l e a pl o m b , l a V u n c o r k s a n e w k i n d o f F r e n c h r e s ta u r a n t a n d w i n e b a r o n E a s t S e v e n t h S t r e e t.
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Dressed in a Rachel Comey dress ($442), Sigerson Morrison shoes ($395), and Weimar necklace ($335) from Valentine’s Too, Mazaite holds court under a field of lavender.
“T h at ’s w hy the f o od s pe aks man y lan g uage s. I t ’s ve ry s imple, but of course, simple is the hardest thing to do.” - Vilma Mazaite
O 68
n a recent Saturday
knolls lined at one end with unwavering rows
by Mazaite and her team, led by owners Ralph
evening, the elegant
of headstones. In the center of the lounge, an
and Lisa Eads, and chef Allison Jenkins and
interior of laV bustles
enormous crystal-cut chandelier hangs from
executive pastry chef Janina O’Leary.
with the hushed but
the exposed industrial ceiling. On each ta-
Our meal begins with a rustic charcuterie
animated buzz of the
bletop, simple sprays of purple lavender are
board, with the highlight being a chicken liver
weekend crowd. To-
displayed in solid, charcoal-gray vases. Each
pâté with pear compote. For an appetizer, we
night’s guests, among them a private party of
well-thought-out detail of the restaurant
try a small plate of farm egg and mushroom
a dozen or so people, are seated throughout
seemingly represents a call-and-response of
raviolo with a delicate consommé, making
the four distinct areas—tasting room, lounge,
masculine and feminine accents.
for a simple yet sophisticated suite of earthy
dining room, and wine cellar. A delicate but
Upon our arrival, my husband and I are
flavors. For the main entrée, my husband and
decisive palette of pewter, taupe, and olive
greeted by laV’s managing partner and ad-
I split laV’s signature dish of wood-roasted
green permeates the entire restaurant’s beau-
vanced sommelier, Vilma Mazaite. She is
chicken served with salsa verde and roasted
tiful decor.
dressed in beige cigarette-leg pants, a diaph-
fingerling potatoes. With a nod to the popu-
Above the full bar, an expansive black-and-
anous coral blouse, and a short-waisted blue
lar Zuni Café in San Francisco, Jenkins and
white landscape painting of a French laven-
blazer, with ballet slippers of pale pink with
Mazaite voted on the wood-roasted chick-
der field at dawn seems to answer the 22-acre
navy blue noses and heels. Her presence is
en after the decision was made to outfit the
Texas State Cemetery, visible through the
warm and animated. Not surprisingly, the cui-
restaurant’s kitchen with a Wood Stone bis-
broad glass windows, across the street, with
sine and wine of laV echo the refined atmo-
tro oven. “The preparation involves a twen-
its majestic live oaks and undulating grassy
sphere of the restaurant, a deliberate tone set
ty-four-hour salt process,” explains Jenkins.
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The restaurant’s elegant wine room is laV’s most intimate space for dining. Chef Allison Jenkins works on her prep list.
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the epitome of French style, Mazaite sports a Vince leather jacket ($1,050), Lily Aldridge for Velvet shirt ($80) and J. Brand white denim ($198), all from Valentine’s Too.
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In a rare moment of down time, pastry chef Janina O’Leary, chef Allison Jenkins, and Mazaite take a seat (and get a little silly) at the bar.
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a leather banquette in the bar is the perfect spot to watch the light fade; the plush and elegant dining room is the setting for a more serious meal.
“Salt and time—literally that’s all there is to
guests, answering questions about the wine
an encyclopedic list, with the guidance of
it.” (Other culinary inspirations for Jenkins’s
list, and discreetly replacing folded napkins.
Mazaite and her two sommeliers, Darren
menu include Patricia Wells, author of many
“We want to be warm and approachable,” says
Scott and Rania Zayyat. The wine list ranges
French cookbooks, such as Patricia Wells at
Mazaite. “That’s why the food speaks many
from more than 500 Burgundies to an unusu-
Home in Provence, and London’s River Café,
languages. It’s very simple, but of course, sim-
al selection of vintage Napas. “Our goal wasn’t
run by chef Ruth Rogers.) For dessert, we or-
ple is the hardest thing to do. It’s all about
to have the biggest wine list in Austin,” ex-
der a sumptuous chocolate delice, sprinkled
the ingredients. You can’t hide behind sauce,
plains Mazaite. “It’s more that we had a point
with dainty edible violets, with a scoop of dis-
foam, or anything like that. It’s straightfor-
of view.” Owner Ralph Eads, a Houston-based
tinctive Earl Grey ice cream, and robust cups
ward food.”
investment banker and entrepreneur, is a
of French-pressed Blue Bottle coffee.
To enhance and complement the culinary
dedicated oenophile, with a large personal
As we enjoy our meal, Mazaite seamlessly
experience, guests have an opportunity to
collection of his own. His vision and enthu-
works the restaurant, chatting with dinner
choose a bottle or wine-by-the-glass from
siasm for opening an Austin restaurant with tribeza.com
may
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Mazaite wears a vintage designer dress with a Cosmic Code necklace ($1,315) from Valentine’s Too.
an extensive wine program was the starting
and Jenkins, who were then working at As-
not with who’s next door. With a new place,
point for all things laV. In fact, some of the
pen’s Little Nell. Later, O’Leary was brought
there is so much we need to fix and change to
selections in the 1,200-label wine cellar and
onto the team, and together they worked to
get better. You have to reinvent yourself.”
tasting bar are handpicked by Eads himself.
make Eads’s vision a reality, creating one of
The name, laV, is a shortened version of the
Mazaite herself developed an early passion for
Austin’s most anticipated and elegant restau-
French expression la vie, or “life.” “We thought
wine, growing up in Lithuania. She moved to
rants. During the coming summer, laV plans
it might work because the restaurant is locat-
the United States in 2001, and began to work
to offer a series of wine-education classes, and
ed right across the street from a cemetery,”
in restaurants under Rajat Paar, Mario Batali
in the fall, the adjacent garden will be culti-
says Mazaite, “but we didn’t want to be too
(at Babbo), and Paul Bartolotta in Las Vegas.
vated for herbs and vegetables as well as be-
literal.” All in all, laV certainly brings some-
ing available as a space for private parties and
thing new and refreshing to Austin’s evolving
banquets.
restaurant landscape. “It’s not just about the
Eads owned the parcel of land on East Seventh Street, and when the time came to ex-
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plore the possibility of building and opening a
“We want to do better each day,” says
restaurant, he enlisted the talents of Mazaite
Mazaite. “We measure ourselves to ourselves,
may 2014 tribeza.com
food or the wine,” adds Jenkins. “It’s about a whole lifestyle.”
“ We m e a s u r e ourselves to ourselves, n ot w ith w h o’ s ne x t d o o r .” - Vilma Mazaite
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Pass the Parmesan: Their comfort-inspired dinner includes spring asparagus, an enticing bowl of spaghetti and meatballs, and cubes of crusty bread speckled with flaky salt.
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austin tables
TV Dinners b y pau l a d i s b r ow e | p h ot o g r a p h y b y t h o m a s w i n s low
In Highland Hills, an impromptu dinner party serves up an Italian-inspired feast (to be eaten from your lap), free flowing Amarone, and the chance to heckle your BFF on television.
A blend of three ground meats (sirloin, lamb, and pork), chopped onion, parsley and fresh basil provide depth of flavor in designer Joel Mozersky’s signature meatball recipe.
W
hen Meredith Walker lived in Manhattan
was a deep ability to support each other in a high-stress atmosphere that
and worked as head of the talent depart-
made us solid then, and continues. We are very much like sisters, and that
ment for Saturday Night Live, she was
means we make it through very cranky, grumpy times as well as the funny,
used to the random, after-hours meet-
lovely times.” To keep themselves busy during lag times on the set, they
ings that producer Lorne Michaels would
took a knitting class, and over coils of colored yarn and flying needles, their
schedule at, say, one in the morning. On one such occasion, the crew
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stories unfolded.
was gathered to meet a potential hire, a perky blonde named Amy Poe-
Among the many things they discussed were their audacious and brave
hler. The laughs came easily that night, and throughout the close-knit,
girlhood selves. They wondered how gutsy aspirations born in preteen
marathon workdays that followed they never really stopped. “During
years too often acquiesce into something more compliant around the time
show weeks at SNL, hours are intense and we spend so much time to-
mascara emerges. A determination to reclaim and preserve that early in-
gether that it feels somewhere between a slumber party and the reality
domitable spirit in other girls led to Smart Girls at the Party (amysmart-
TV series Deadliest Catch,” Walker says.
girls.com), the blog they launched in 2008 with their friend Amy Miles.
She and Poehler quickly became allies. “There was just that base, dis-
Since then, Smart Girls has become a growing online network and com-
tinct comfort that comes when you meet someone who will be your best
munity. Thanks to Poehler’s A-list celeb factor, her name gets the most
friend,” says Walker. “We make each other laugh, for sure, but there
play, but when it comes to the clever content, Walker is steering the ship.
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Tom Emery, Walker, and Elizabeth Winslow sip, snack, and swap one-liners in Mozersky’s kitchen. tribeza.com
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The more hands, the better (meatballs are shaped and browned in a skillet before being submerged in a simmering tomato sauce). Steaming noodles are drained in an antique copper colander.
Mozersky’s rich sauce is perfumed with a scattering of fresh basil. Spears of asparagus are topped with feta, walnuts, and lemon vinaigrette.
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Walker learned to make chess pie from her mentor Linda Ellerbee. “When I worked for Linda Ellerbee, we were close friends and she’d always have me out to her home in the Berkshires where we would spend most of our time in the kitchen. That is where I made my first chess pie and I’ve been making the same one ever since,” Walker says.
Smart Girls is also earning industry accolades. Last month it was honored with a Shorty Award for “Tumblr of the Year.” Their traveling road shows (that include motivational talks and empowering panels) provide additional ways for their fan base to engage (as do online initiatives ranging from poetry contests to profiles of gutsy stunt girls). In 2006, after years in television, Walker was ready for a less frenetic pace. “While I worked for Linda Ellerbee at Nick News, I’d produced several stories in Austin using an outstanding production company called Texas Crew,” she says. “Through the years we’d become close friends, and I knew I could freelance for them. I had such happy memories of Austin, I just knew it was the best place to try a different life.” For Walker, that translated to a place where people who do entirely different things gather around a table and enjoy great food and conversation. As luck would have it, she found plenty of that. She amassed a group of friends, met her domestic partner, Tom Emery, a tennis coach at the South Austin Tennis Center, and together they started cooking up a storm. “We don’t have kids, and our relationship has so much to do with our time in the kitchen,” Walker explains. “Tom once spelled I’m sorry on a pita bread as an apology, using peanut butter and a straw. Connecting over food is ever present in our life.” And once a week or so, she gets together with pal Joel Mozersky, the interior design guru, for their version of TV dinners. These casual meals provide an opportunity to catch up on episodes of Parks and Recreation, in which Poehler stars as Leslie Knope, a midlevel bureaucrat in the parks department of a fictional town in Indi-
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“My favorite thing about these evenings is just being with Meredith,” Mozersky says. His coffee table provides a laid back spot for everyone to feast and relax; Peggy, one of Mozersky’s four lively pooches dreams of a dropped snack.
ana. “I love the Lou Grant/Mary Richards-ness of Ron and Leslie,”
Once the meatballs have cooked through and enriched the sauce,
Walker says. “Most of all, I love Leslie Knope’s optimism and deter-
they’re ladled over a tangle of noodles. Tom refills wine glasses and ev-
mination, and the fact that Amy made Leslie Knope’s birthday the
eryone heads to the living room to grab a seat under a gallery of vintage
same as mine, January 18th.”
dog portraits. Joel’s four real-life dogs—Alfie, Rudy, Peggy, and Cha-
On a recent Saturday evening, Joel simmers meatballs made of
Cha—hop on the couch and settle in suspiciously close to the meatballs.
ground pork, sirloin, and lamb in a rich tomato sauce. A large round
Forks twirl strands of spaghetti and spear asparagus, crusty bread
of sourdough is scored, brushed with olive oil, and toasted in the
sops up the rest, and laughs once again come easily. It’s a quick-wit-
oven. Their friend Elizabeth Winslow (communications director for
ted, snarky crew, just the kind of people you want to be with when
the Sustainable Food Center, and TRIBEZA contributor) tops spears
you’re lobbing one-liners at the television. For dessert, there’s just-
of blanched asparagus with walnuts, feta, fresh herbs, and lemon
baked buttermilk chess pie that Walker learned to make from Linda
vinaigrette. Amarone flows freely. “Once over dinner at Del Posto,
Ellerbee. The easy joy of the evening makes me think of Walker’s
Mario Batali told me that Amarone is the wine that inspires conver-
ultimate hope for Smart Girls—that it teaches people that you never
sation,” Meredith says between sips.
look stupid while you’re having fun.
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R e ly i n g o n p u n c h y i n g r e d i e n t s ( b e e t i c e c r e a m , b i tt e r a m a ro) , a n d a g e n e r a l s e n s e o f w h i m s y, t h e c r e w at Q u i s h a k e u p i c e c r e a m drinks (just for us!) with a fresh urban edge.
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DrinkYo u r Dessert Recipes by Monica Glenn & Rachel Del Rocco of Qui P h o t o g r a p h y b y Ad a m V o r h e e s
Make no mistake —these are not your grandmother’s grasshoppers. When we asked two talents from Qui (pastry cook
| s t y l i n g b y r o b i n f i n l ay
Cobbler Jam
Makes 1 Drink
Note: A cobbler is traditionally a 19th century cocktail made with fortified wine and fruit.
a few creamy, boozy cocktails, we knew they’d deliver something
Monica: Strawberries recently came in season here in Texas, so I’ve been spending a lot of time preserving and jamming while the opportunity allows. At Qui we serve a strawberry-ginger-beer jam, but you can use any good-quality strawberry jam as a replacement.
extraordinary. “We don’t really have a pastry chef,” Monica ex-
Rachel: A cobbler is just the perfect spring drink, refreshing and fruity. I
plains. “I work with Paul and our chef de cuisine, Jorge Hernan-
recently saw a woman at a bar digging out the fruit of her cobbler and that’s exactly what that is supposed to be—a sunny day, porch crusher!
Monica Glenn and bartender Rachel Del Rocco), Paul Qui’s innovative fine dining restaurant, to help us kick off summer with
dez, in developing the pastry menu. When we were given this project, I pulled out all my favorite frozen goodies that we’ve been working on, and trusted Rachel’s cocktail-building savvy to pull it all together, which she did beautifully. ” The stunning results rely on of-the-moment flavors showcased in unexpected ways. We can’t think of a better way to end a meal, or kick off summer. In other words, we’re thirsty.
1 1/2 ounces London dry gin (such as Fords) 1/4 ounce dry Curaçao 3/4 ounce simple syrup Spoonful of strawberry jam (Qui uses a house-made strawberry-ginger-beer jam) Lemon granita Strawberry sorbet Fresh berries, for garnish Combine the gin, Curaçao, simple syrup, and strawberry jam in a cocktail shaker filled with crushed ice. Shake vigorously, then pour into an old-fashioned glass. Garnish with a spoonful of lemon granita, a scoop of strawberry sorbet, and fresh fruit. tribeza.com
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Beet Sidecar Makes 1 Drink M: My very first job was at a novelty ice cream shop called Malcolm’s,
and this drink is loosely based on my favorite treat there. I love the combination of the bright, earthy beet ice cream with the warm caramel notes of the brandy. R: A sidecar is a classic cocktail made with Cognac or brandy, orange
liqueur, and lemon juice, and Monica came up with this one substituting beet ice cream for the sweet component. It worked really well, especially with a nice, tart soda. It changed the entire drink and was just delicious. 1 ounce brandy or Cognac 1/2 ounce turbinado sugar syrup 3/4 ounce fresh lemon juice Soda water 3/4 ounce slightly melted beet ice cream (see note) Strip of candied grapefruit peel Combine the brandy, syrup, and lemon juice in a cocktail shaker. Shake well, pour into a wine glass, and top with a splash of soda water, a scoop of beet ice cream, and a strip of candied grapefruit peel. Note: Roasted Beet and fresh mint ice cream is available at Lick Ice Creams for $8/pint. (2032 S Lamar Blvd, ilikelick.com).
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Thai Iced Tea Makes 1 Drink
M: Working in the service industry, I am no stranger to highly caffeinated, sweet and creamy Thai iced tea, so when Rachel suggested pairing it with our vanilla sansho ice cream, flavored with Japanese spice, it made perfect sense. You can also use regular vanilla ice cream seasoned with a few grindings of sichuan pepper. R: Made with condensed milk, a boozy rum and spicy ice cream, this is like a Tiki-inspired breakfast-milkshake.
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1 ounce El Dorado 5 year (Demerara rum) 1 ounce Smith & Cross (Navy Strength Jamaican rum) 1 ounce steeped Thai tea 3/4 ounce crème de cacao 1/2 ounce orgeat 1 teaspoon (or more to taste) sweetened condensed milk Best-quality vanilla ice cream Combine the rums, tea, crème de cacao, orgeat, and milk in a Collins glass. Add crushed ice and stir. Top with a scoop of the ice cream and serve.
Sbagliato Float Makes 1 Drink
M: I have a special place in my heart for anything Italian and anything bubbly. An Americano is one of my favorite cocktails to drink and a Sbagliato (a negroni made with sparkling wine, not gin) was on our menu recently. It was a no-brainer to add a citrusy sherbet to this and make some kind of float out of it. R: One of the first ice creams I showed Rachel was this orange sherbet and it was a snap for her to work it into this cocktail. I just wish she had needed more time tweaking this one, so I
could’ve had more time tasting it! 1 ounce Gran Classico (or another bitter such as Compari or Aperol) 1 ounce Cocchi Americano Rosa 1/4 ounce honey simple syrup (made with 2 parts honey to 1 part water) Sparkling wine Orange sherbet Combine the ingredients in a Champagne flute, then top with a splash of Prosecco and a small scoop of orange sherbet.
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profile in
style
Sarah McIntosh, Owner of épicerie From selecting a perfectly crisp bottle
of Spanish Grenache Blanc to tracking down the richest
shade of cerulean blue paint for her daughter’s bedroom walls, Sarah McIntosh—owner of the Rosedale eatery épicerie—knows what she likes. It’s a sensibility evident in both the interiors of épicerie, the Paris-grocery-meets-New-Orleans-café that she opened in late 2012, and the 1930s Cherrywood home she lives in with her husband, Jackson, and their threemonth-old daughter, Finley. “I know what I like,” McIntosh is quick to explain. “My style is clean, contemporary, and elegant, with Old World character.” Raised in Louisiana, McIntosh was educated at Austin’s chapter of Le Cordon Bleu culinary school and vetted in externships at Thomas Keller’s esteemed California restaurants Bouchon and Ad Hoc. In Austin, she worked for almost three years at Olivia before moving on to open épicerie, a restaurant with style and cuisine that succinctly summarizes her culinary experience: it’s fried green tomatoes, Napa-style—familiar dishes constructed from high-quality and expertly sourced ingredients, all set to an effortlessly stylish background. Think clean white Windsor-style chairs paired with simple wooden farm tables; tidy rows of hard-to-find artisanal sundries (Santa Rosa Plum and Flowering Thyme Jam, anyone?); perfect interior lighting that feels at once warm and crisp; and plenty of rich, timeless materials like marble, copper, and leather. McIntosh made many of the decisions about the restaurant’s interiors herself, along with architectural design from the office of Michael Hsu. At McIntosh’s home—a modest two-bedroom house on a quiet street—the eye for detail is carried over. Her interior design strategy has been to spend money where it counts, on details like the perfect shade of paint or the right texture for curtain material; it’s her attention to subtleties like this that makes the home feel both comfortable and cohesive. Sarah and Jackson have moved slowly in redesigning aspects of the house, a lesson in combining intentional investments with thoughtful, aesthetic-elevating DIY projects. Most recently, they completed an overhaul of Finley’s nursery, incorporating lots of rich, dark tones, refurbished wood furniture, and well-placed pops of yellow. McIntosh constructed a stylish glider by affixing a swivel attachment to the base of a vintage chair. Next on the list is the master bedroom, and then, McIntosh interjects hopefully, “a kitchen upgrade!” She rattles off names of luxury appliances, then laughs and says, “Maija Kreishman [senior architect with Michael Hsu] said I had a knack for consistently choosing the most expensive item in any set of options.” But beyond her Champagne taste, what’s apparent about McIntosh is the genuine curiosity that fuels her passions, from her ad hoc design skills to the entrepreneurial vision and aesthetic that took a little bit of every part of her past and spun it into something entirely her own. As she puts it, “I’m a fast learner. I like to jump in, pick up skills, absorb as much as I possibly can, and then apply it elsewhere.” l. patterson
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P h oto g r a p h y by w y n n m y er s
profile in style
3.
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4. 1. A corner of Finley's nursery, including a DIY glider McIntosh made from adding a glider attachment to a refurbished vintage chair—"Much cheaper than buying a ready-made glider and—I think cuter," she explains. 2. Penguin classics with modern illustrated covers from Anthropologie ($18 each). 3. Finley's owl mobile from Picket Fences (1003 W 34th St., $52) 4. Kiki, McIntosh's 11-year-old longhaired chihuahua ("My first child," she laughs.) 5. In the kitchen, a copper pot rack hangs
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above custom concrete countertops made by McIntosh's husband, Jackson. 6. A cedar plank wall and hanging cheese boards 7. Antique wood and brass wine pitcher 8. A bouquet of fresh flowers from Trader Joe's 9. A stuffed owl from Wildflower Organics (908 N. Lamar)."We went with owls for Finley's spirit animal," McIntosh laughs. 10. A view of the dining room with a sleepy, "crazy, needy pit bull puppy Layla." P h oto g r a p h y by w y n n m y er s
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A unique blend of antiques, one-of-a-kind furnishings, lighting, gifts and accessories for the home. Custom work and design services available. 1 5 1 2 W. 3 5 T H S T. C U TO F F, S U I T E 1 0 0 | 5 1 2 . 2 8 4 . 9 7 3 2 | W E N D O W F I N E L I V I N G. C O M
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style
behind the scenes
Grape Expectations S o m m e l i e r C r a i g C o l l i n s sp e nds h is days sip pin g lu s c io u s win e s, in v e ntin g c l e v e r co c ktails, and sa b o r in g t h e o cc asional b ottl e of C h am pag n e. in ot h e r wo r ds, it ' s always 5 o ' c lo c k . Craig Collins creates many original cocktail recipes—here he trims zest to infuse his own limoncello recipe.
C
raig Collins, beverage director for the ELM restaurant group—the geniuses behind Easy Tiger, 24 Diner, and Arro—usually logs 12-hour workdays. But when those
days often start with wine tasting and end with training staff to make a new cocktail he’s created, Collins insists, it doesn’t feel like work at all. “I don’t feel like I have a job,” he says. “I’m doing something I truly love.” True love, for Collins, started with more-fleeting desires: He freely admits that he got into the wine business “to meet women.” When he was still in college, he confessed as much to the owner of a winery in an interview, and the owner, appreciative of his honesty, responded with a job offer. It was while studying abroad in Italy, though, that Collins got serious about wine. Experiencing a mismatch between available funds and the many wines he wanted to try, Collins started a club, collecting lire from his fellow travelers, reading up on wines each week, and presenting them to the group. It was one of those wines, Collins says, that was his aha moment. “It was a 1998 Bran Caia Blue—a Super Tuscan from Italy that is a blend of Sangiovese and merlot,” he says. “It was really one of those things where your heart stops and you’re like, ‘Oh my God, this is the most beautiful
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Collins’ work for Arro involved creating an entirely French wine list to compliment its menu.
thing I’ve put in my mouth.’ It was the moment when I knew what I was going to do for the rest of my life.” P h oto g r a p h y by l e a h ov er s t r ee t
And he followed through, too. In the midst of a burgeoning career in wine, Collins passed the Master Sommelier exam in 2011, joining the ranks of barely more than 200 people in the world who’ve attained the membership. If it sounds difficult, that’s because it is .Collins took his first Master Sommelier exam in 2001. In one part of the exam, he had 25 minutes to identify the variety, vintage, and region of six different wines—in a blind tasting. Today, Collins’s work is less high-stakes but just as exciting to him. “Through wine I can connect with anyone,” he says. “It’s geology, it’s art, it’s chemistry, it’s history and business. Having a little bit of knowledge about each one of those facets of wine allows me to have conversations with some of the coolest people in the world.” j. netzer Finding the seam when sabering is a crucial step, but not as crucial as making sure the bottle is ice-cold.
Collins is a master sommelier, a distinction held by just 200-some people in the world.
HOW TO SABER WINE, from Craig Collins: 1. Chill your Champagne for 24 hours. Then, 30 minutes before you plan to celebrate, submerge the neck in an ice bin. This is the crucial step: You want to make the glass as cold and brittle as possible. 2. Gently remove the foil and find the seam on the bottle. 3. Move the saber along the seam quickly. The pressure will expel the top of the bottle off. No saber handy? Use the back of a chef’s knife. 4. Drink up. And don’t necessarily wait for a special occasion, Collins says. Champagne, especially when sabered, is a special occasion.
Collins, shown here sabering champagne, says that champagne shouldn’t be saved for a ‘special’ occasion, that champagne itself is the occasion.
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FRESH LOCAL
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500 e. 4th street | austin, tx 78701 finnandporterAUSTIN.com
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i n s p i r at i o n b oa r d
Inspiration Board:
Alexandra Manley
Since 2008, chef Alexandra Manley has been an intrinsic force behind every eatery that restaurateur Larry McGuire has opened in Austin, including Elizabeth Street Café, Clark’s, and Perla’s. Most recently, she has been at the culinary helm of Josephine House, the charming and elegant establishment at the corner of West Lynn and Waterston. Given Manley’s extraordinary success to date, where does this young chef get all of her energy and inspiration? She starts close to home, with her parents. Her seasonal approach is informed by her family’s garden when she was growing up in Bethesda, Maryland. Manley’s parents also enjoyed looking for the perfect ingredient. “We would hunt down ethnic grocery stores in search of the best liverwurst, stinky European cheeses, Russian rye bread, and pickled herring,” recalls Manley.Many of the flavorful ingredients for her farm-to-table menu are harvested directly from the gardens that are shared by Josephine House and Jeffrey’s. “It is so inspiring to pick something directly from the garden and put it on the menu a few minutes later,” says Manley. “Right now we have beautiful lettuces and herbs. Fava beans, cardoons, and puntarella are on their way.”
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K. WALSH
ALEXANDRA's
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Inspiration Board 5.
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1. Old-school food writers: “Richard Olney, M. F. K. Fisher, and Elizabeth David. I still remember reading Alice Waters’s Los Angeles Times obituary for Olney.” 2. Photo of Alex’s parents, Jeff and Masha Manley, from their wedding day, September 18, 1965: “My dad is a compulsive researcher; my mother, a great improviser. He would make a big meal every Sunday and my mother would spend the rest of the week creating dinner with the leftovers.” 3. Julia Child’s The French Chef: “I love watching old episodes. Child’s joy is contagious.” 4. Coffee: “Some days my schedule is an excuse for trips to Houndstooth, Once Over, Medici, Flat Track, or Brew & Brew. There is only so much caffeine I can consume in a day—it is important to choose wisely!” 5. Jacques Pepin’s La Technique: “A classic and a favorite.” 6. Local produce: “We are so lucky here in Austin to have urban farms like Springdale, Boggy Creek, and HausBar, to name a few.” 7. Canelé mold: “I picked this up during my travels in France.” 8. Dark chocolate: “I always have a bar in my purse and several on the counter at home. The breakfast of champions is a square of dark chocolate and a cortado.” 9. Canal House Cooking, by Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton: “One of my favorite cookbooks.” 10. Butter-knife pendant and necklace: “Butter is the key, so I wear this pendant around my neck.” 11. Beurre d’Isigny with coarse sea salt. 12. Yard eggs: “Chickens eating real food of their own choosing makes for exciting egg eating.” 13. Cup and saucer: Essentials for cappuccinos. 14. Spread from The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating, by Fergus Henderson: “Henderson also has a restaurant in London called St. John where I had one of the best meals of my life.”
p h oto g r ap h y b y b ill sallans
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style
pick
Alex handles the marketing and sales side of the business while Michelle is in charge of the gardening and purchasing.
Monument Market focuses on local and seasonal food direct from the source.
The market brings the best of a weekend farmer’s market to downtown Georgetown seven days a week.
Monument Market
Managers Alex Weber and Michelle Akindiyaaim to produce quality goods that are local, seasonal, and organic. Together they work to uphold these three pillars daily.
A G eo rg e tow n m a r k e t o f f er s a g row i n g b o u n t y o f f r e s h , lo c a l ly i n s p i r ed fa r e .
T
he beauty of a farmers’ market is in its vibrant, just-harvested cally sourced produce that is seasonal and organic whenever possible, freshness—the promise of flavorful and nourishing seasonal we offer that diversity for folks who can’t make it to an actual farmers’ produce. Monument Market, which opened in 2011, brought market every weekend.” Weber and Michelle Akindiya manage the store: he handles the this same pledge of freshness to downtown Georgetown. The retail market shares one over-an-acre sized city block with its counterpart, marketing and sales side of things, and she’s charged with the garthe popular Monument Cafe, as well as with its own produce and herb den and purchasing. Since they took over the business from founder gardens. While most of the products (all from farms within a 300-mile Jeanette Murphy a year and a half ago, they’ve worked to expand the market while staying true to its commitment to sustainability. radius) are sold to customers, some go straight to their kitchen. To that end, the market holds weekly gardening classes and biStarting this month, the market will literally connect to the café (via a new doorway), and early this summer a smoothie bar with a range of monthly cooking classes, taught by other staff members. There’s also an in-house bread program and a grab-and-go deli that offers quick fruit and vegetable concoctions will be added to the mix. Monument Market covers all the bases for urban foodies, including meal solutions for locals. “I really like picking up a fresh melon that’s just ripe and warm locally grown and/or produced fruits and vegetables, olive oils, beer and wine, coffee, honey, and more. In other words, it’s one-stop shop- from the sun and bringing it inside and selling it,” Perry says. “With urban farming in general, you’re growing food right ping for locavore foodies. 500 S Austin Ave where the people are; it doesn’t get much more direct “Monument Market is the retail version of a farmers’ Georgetown, TX than that.” e. banks market,” says co-manager Alex Weber. “If you want lothemonumentmarket.com
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may 2014 tribeza.com
P h oto g r a p h y by k at e l e s u eu r
Chris Caselli Photography
.
.
MOBILE BANKING. ONLINE BANKING. AND GOOD OL’ FACE-TO-FACE BANKING. Frost is here whenever and wherever you need us, with the technology you want and the service you deserve.
frostbank.com Tarrytown (512) 473-4364
MEMBER FDIC
The World at War, 1914–1918 Drawing on the Ransom Center’s extensive collections, this exhibition illuminates the experience of the war from the point of view of its participants and observers, preserved through letters, drafts, and diaries; memoirs and novels; and photographs and propaganda posters. Through August 3, 2014 21st and Guadalupe Streets Free admission, donations welcome www.hrc.utexas.edu
without
"The Penelope" is topped with smoked speck, fresh mozzarella, arugula, and tomatoes.
r e s e r vat i o n s A rustic setting is a part of the charm.
Cinnamon and Chad Nemec traded real estate for a life of pies.
Stanley's Farmhouse Pizza
13187 Fitzhugh Road (512) 900 9079 stanleysfarmhousepizza.com
I ’ v e N e v er B een to H e av en , b u t I ’ v e B een to S tanl e y ’ s P iz z a .
T
here’s something magical that happens when you combine pizza from a woodburning oven, cold craft beer, and a Hill Country setting on a late-spring afternoon. At Stanley’s Farmhouse Pizza, golden sunshine casts a warm glow on hipsters in their finest ironic casual wear, aging hippies from Lakeway in tie-dye, tipsy parents and their under-supervised children, and the occasional intrepid foodie from Waco gathered in an open-air barn and on blankets spread under gnarled oaks and pecans. The thrill of the quest and whatever unexpected turns it may take enhances the experience—driving south of Austin, then down a winding gravel road to a small restaurant attached to a brewery. But there’s also slow-fermented pizza crust, chewy and slightly charred from a wood fire, and a carefully curated selection of brews (19 on tap). Like a long, languid feast in Europe, where lunch lingers more or less until dinner, there’s the luxury of an afternoon when waiting an hour or so for pizza that’s a million times better than it needs to be is a pleasure rather than an annoyance. And do try to be patient—
110
may 2014 tribeza.com
the unexpected popularity of Stanley’s (on a recent Saturday they served 1,400 people and made 430 pies) can translate to long lines. The proprietors are expanding the operation in fits and spurts, but that will take time, just like their pizzas. Stanley’s shares the ranch property with the critically acclaimed Jester King Brewery, which frequently offers tours with tastings. As any beer geek will tell you, Jester King specializes in distinctive sour brews; if you prefer a clean, crisp lager, or a glass of wine, you can get either in a mason jar at Stanley’s. If you stay long enough, you can watch the sky fade into a deep Texas twilight. Really, what’s your hurry? The open-air restaurant is on Ceres Ranch— Stanley was the ranch’s first bull. Owners Chad and Cinnamon Nemec are committed to quality, as evidenced by a menu focused on one thing. There are salads and desserts, but the message is clear: we’re all here for the pizza. Ingredients are impeccably sourced, with an emphasis on local that is thoughtful (goat cheese from Pure Luck Dairy in Dripping Springs)
rather than dogmatic (they use mozzarella from Wisconsin, because they found it’s the best product for their fiery ovens). The pizzas are named after Stanley’s girlfriends, their cows—our favorite was the Tina ($13) with extra virgin olive oil, fresh mozzarella, Fontina, and a shower of fragrant chopped basil (for the price of an additional topping you can add prosciutto, and that’s a very good idea). For lovers of red sauce, there’s the Dexter ($14.50), with a clean, tart, judicious smear of sauce, pepperoni, Italian sausage, sweet caramelized onions, and spicy Calabrian chiles. There are a few unorthodox toppings—BBQ sauce and brisket—but even this seems to work in the context of mesquite and big blue sky. As any pizzaiolo will tell you, it’s not about the toppings anyway. The most precious ingredient in Stanley’s pizza is time. The dough gets a cool, three-day, slow rise, resulting in a tangy, complex flavor impossible to achieve through shortcuts. Perfumed with wood smoke, blistered and bubbled—this is pizza to plan a day around. e. winslow P h oto g r a p h y by w y n n m y er s
Westview on Lake Austin, Eanes ISD
Downtown Spring Condos
Travis Heights East
Charlotte Brigham Broker, MBA
512.423.5707 | CharBrigham@gmail.com
512.473.0078 | 2727 Exposition Blvd Suite 110 | samlmajorsaustin.com
Dinner & Drinks
dining guide
From brisket to brussels sprouts, our picks of the best places to eat and drink Austin Restaurant Week participants 219 WEST
mostly-Italian wine list,
APOTHECARY CAFÉ
(512) 331 5788
THE BACKSPACE
Congress restaurant, Bar
612 W 6th St
complete with an outdoor
AND WINE BAR
Authentic Chinese cuisine in
507 San Jacinto
Congress stirs up classic
(512) 474 2194
patio for sipping.
4800 Burnet Rd
a comfortable atmosphere.
(512) 474 9899
cocktails and delicious
Delicious thin crust pizza
upscale fare.
(512) 371 1600
Lively warehouse district hangout, with a rooftop
ANNIE’S CAFÉ & BAR
Apothecary’s soothing
ASTI TRATTORIA
and wine selections in a
bar and some of the best
319 Congress Ave
ambiance and excellent
408 E 43rd St
cozy setting.
happy hour tapas in town.
(512) 472 1884
wine selection make for
(512) 451 1218
locally-minded Ameri-
a happy spot to get wine
The chic little Hyde Park
BANGER’S SAUSAGE
(512) 382 5557
34TH STREET CAFÉ
can offerings in a
and enjoy a quick bite with
trattoria offers delicious
HOUSE AND BEER
A great place to stop when
1005 W 34th St
charming setting; per-
friends.
Italian cuisine, like saf-
GARDEN
you’re going out for a night
(512) 371 3400
fect spot for a decadent
fron risotto with seafood.
79 Rainey St
on the town, this sushi and
Consistently good Ameri-
downtown brunch.
(512) 386 1656
bar hotspot stays open until 2am on the weekends.
can fare that toes the
206 Colorado St
601 W 6th St
Austin Land and
Banger’s brings the Ger-
casual/fancy line—good
Andiamo Italiano
(512) 992 2776
Cattle
man biergarten tradition
for weeknight dinners
2521 Rutland Dr
From Easy Tiger and 24
1205 N Lamar Blvd
stateside with an array of
BAR LAMAR
and weekend indulgences
(512) 719 3377
Diner’s ELM Restaurant
(512) 472 1813
artisan sausages and over
(at the downtown Whole
alike. Order the chicken
This neighborhood
Group, this recently
The capitol's only in-
100 beers on tap.
Foods Market)
piccata.
restaurant located in
opened spot offers rich
dependent and family-
an unassuming North
French favorites and an
owned steakhouse serves
BAR CONGRESS
(512) 345 5000
360 UNO TRATTORIA
Austin strip mall offers
excellent wine list.
aged beef the same way
200 Congress Ave
Grab a bottle and a snack
& WINE BAR
delectable, homemade
they have for over 17 years.
(512) 827 2755
to share, then the Whole
3801 N Capital of TX Hwy
Italian fare that is fresh
ASIA CAFÉ
Order their fresh seafood
A classy middle ground
Foods bartenders will un-
(512) 327 5505
and locally sourced.
8650 Spicewood Springs
as an appetizer and you
between Second Bar +
cork it and provide glasses
Rd, Ste 115
won't regret it.
Kitchen, and the upscale
for you at no extra charge.
Great espresso bar and a
112
ARRO
BAR CHI SUSHI
may 2014 tribeza.com
525 N. Lamar Blvd
©2013 Bob’s Steak & Chop House
Austin’s prime spot for prime steaks. We know you’ve heard about us … the food, the
atmosphere, the service. Bob’s Steak & Chop House exceeds its reputation from the moment you walk in
A ndy Dixon
the door. Come in and see for yourself. Don’t be the last one to become addicted to Bob’s.
301 Lavaca Street Austin, TX 78701 512-222-2627
Wally Workman Gallery 1202 W. 6th St. Austin, TX 78703 512.472.7428 wallyworkman.com
Tues-Sat 10-5 Duchess on Horse (After Velázquez), acrylic & oil pastel on canvas, 64 x 54 inches
www.bobs-steakandchop.com
v i e w t h e e n t i r e r e s ta u r a n t g u i d e o n l i n e at t r i be z a .co m
BAR MIRABEAU
BENJI'S CANTINA
BOULDIN CREEK CAFÉ
An excellent upscale
CLARK’S OYSTER BAR
Both the pancakes and
800 W 6th St Ste 100
716 W 6th St
1900 S 1st St
Mexican restaurant with a
1200 W 6th St
hamburger are legendary.
(512) 436 9633
(512) 476 8226
(512) 416 1601
late-night happy hour.
(512) 297 2525
Another unique addition
Rooftop dining on West
Affordable wholesome
Small and typically
COUNTER CULTURE
to Austin’s dining scene
6th, Benji’s offers a fresh,
vegetarian cuisine, includ-
Chavez
crowded, Clark’s’ extensive
2337 E Cesar Chavez St
from Chef Parind Vora. A
innovative approach to
ing soups, salads, and
111 E Cesar Chavez
caviar and oyster menu,
(512) 524 1540
diverse and approachable
Tex-Mex where seafood
sandwiches.
(512) 478 2991
sharp aesthetics, and
An East Austin haven for
menu with rice bowls,
and Mexican influences
Local celebrity chef Shawn
excellent service make it a
vegans and vegetarians.
sandwiches, cioppino, and
adorn the menu.
BUENOS AIRES CAFÉ
Cirkiel has turned what
refreshing indulgence on
1201 E 6th St
used to be a drab TGI
West Sixth Street. Indoor
Crave
a view of bustling down-
BESS BISTRO
(512) 382 1189
Friday's into Austin's hot-
and outdoor seating is
340 E 2nd St
town Austin.
500 W 6th St
Argentinean specialties
test new dining venture.
available.
(512) 469 0000
(512) 477 2377
like meat sandwiches on
Chavez boasts homemade
BARLATA
A rustic, underground
baguettes, empanadas,
mole and tamales, and a
CONGRESS
with a chic atmosphere
1500 S Lamar Ste 150
restaurant owned by
and tasty pastries. Inti-
gorgeous view overlooking
200 Congress Ave
and a wide selection of di-
(512) 473 2211
Sandra Bullock serving
mate patio seating.
Lady Bird Lake.
(512) 827 2760
verse dining choices. Grab
Hoppin' Spanish tapas
up French-inspired dishes
An upscale dining expe-
an intimate corner table
restaurant in a modern
with Southern twists: The
BUFALINA
CHEN’S NOODLE
rience with great wine
and enjoy lunch, dinner or
South Austin setting. The
fried green tomatoes are
1519 E Cesar Chavez
HOUSE
pairings.
happy hour!
octopus is a perfect dish,
the perfect indulgence.
(512) 524 2523
8650 Spicewood Springs
more, with a patio offering
Wood-fired pizza in an
Rd, Ste 127 (512) 336 8889
CONTIGO
CRU WINE BAR
Reservations recom-
BLUE DAHLIA BISTRO
elegant, trendy vibe; get
Don’t let the small size
2027 Anchor Ln
238 W 2nd St
mended.
1115 E 11th St
the Fresca pie.
fool you, this hidden gem
(512) 614 2260
(512) 472 9463
provides some of the most
Ranch-to-table cuisine
An excellent place for a
as are the potatoes bravas.
(512) 542 9542 BARLEY SWINE
A cozy, French-inspired
CAFÉ JOSIE
authentic fresh noodles in
and an elegant take on
date; drink a bottle of
2024 S Lamar Blvd St
bistro serving up break-
1200 W 6th St
Austin.
bar fare.
wine at one of the cozy
(512) 394 8150
fast, lunch, and dinner.
(512) 322 9226
Chef Bryce Gilmore offers
114
A classic American grill
Innovative and flavorful
small plates with locally
BOTTICELLI’S
plates with fresh ingredi-
sourced ingredients which
1321 S Congress Ave
ents in a quaint and inti-
pair with craft beers and
(512) 916 1315
mate atmosphere.
fine wines, guests sit at
An inviting trattoria with
communal high top tables.
warm Tuscan colors.
CANTINA LAREDO
Small bar up front and
201 W 3rd St
cozy booths in back.
(512) 542 9670
may 2014 tribeza.com
CHINATOWN 3407 Greystone Dr, (512) 343 9307 & 107 W 5th St (512) 637 8888 Some of the best traditional Chinese food in town. Fast service in the dining room and delivery is available.
sidewalk tables. COUNTER CAFÉ 626 N Lamar Blvd
CURRYOSITY
(512) 708 8800
2209 E Cesar Chavez St
It’s nothing fancy, but this
(512) 574 3691
tiny shotgun-style diner
An exploration of aromat-
has some of the city’s best
ic curries across the Asian
breakfast offerings (and
continent, from India to
the lines outside to match).
Thailand.
DARUMA RAMEN
rek offer out-of-this-world
EL ALMA
612-B E 6th St
pan-Asian food from three
1025 Barton Springs Rd
(512) 369 3897
trailers.
(512) 609 8923
Rich chicken broth-based
Chef-driven, authentic
ramen and a simple,
EAST-SIDe SHOWROOM
veggie-friendly menu from
1100 E 6th St
the owners of the popular
(512) 467 4280
EL NARANJO
Kome Sushi Kitchen on
Delicious vintage cocktails
85 Rainey St
Airport Blvd.
in an eccentric space.
(512) 474 2776
Enjoy local art, music, and
Husband and wife team
cuisine by Sonya Cote.
Iliana de la Vega and
DRISKILL HOTEL BAR 604 Brazos St
Mexican cuisine.
Ernesto Torrealba serve
(512) 391 7162
EASY TIGER
up authentic cuisine from
With a blend of his-
709 E 6th St
Mexico’s interior. Dine al
tory, class, and charm the
(512) 614 4972
fresco on the charming
Driskill Bar is unbeatable
Delicious bake shop up-
Rainey Street patio.
if you want a classic, old-
stairs and beer garden
school Austin experience.
downstairs. Enjoy the
ELEPHANT ROOM
signature house-made
315 Congress Ave
sausages.
(512) 473 2279
Due Forni 106 E 6th St Ste 106
Cool jazz in a dark base-
(512) 391 9300
EDEN EAST
ment; go early for an inti-
Serving up Roman and
755 Springdale Rd
mate cocktail, or late for
Neapolitan style pizza
(512) 428 6500
jams in a packed house.
from two specially de-
Weekends at the farm have
signed brick ovens, Due
never been more delicious:
Eleven Plates &
Forni combines the art of
Chef Sonya Cote of Hillside
Wine
simple, delicious food and
Farmacy teamed up with
3801 N Capital of Texas
timeless, easy wine.
Springdale Farms this year
Hwy
to create a (literal) farm-
(512) 328 0110
EAST SIDE KING
to-table concept restaurant
Specializing in New
1618 E 6th St
on the East side, serving
American cuisine, tapas
(512) 422 5884
a seasonal prix fixe menu
and small plates, this
Chefs Paul Qui, Moto
under a the canopy of a
casual wine bar offers
Utsonomaya and Ek Tim-
majestic Texas elm tree.
over 100 fine wines from
Austin Restaurant Week
MAY 11-14 | 18-21
T
his year TRIBEZA is proud to partner with Austin Restaurant Week (ARW), to produce the bi-annual culinary event that takes place each spring and fall. Come hungry! The eight days of dining during ARW’s spring season will take place on May 11-14 and 18-21, during which time Austinites can dine (and wine!) at participating restaurants for lunch, brunch, and dinner. The prix-fixe menus offer varied options that include signature dishes, all while giving back to a notable cause. Each restaurant will donate $2 from each meal to Meals on Wheels and More, which in turn funds 1 meal for a person in need. A special thank you to all the ARW Sponsors: Velocity Credit Union, Deep Eddy Vodka, Zagat, SWBC Mortgage, and Better Bronze. A complete list of participating restaurants can be found at restaurantweekaustin. com; reservations strongly encouraged. Stay up to date on Twitter @austinrestweek (#austinRW). p. disbrowe tribeza.com may 2014
115
v i e w t h e e n t i r e r e s ta u r a n t g u i d e o n l i n e at t r i be z a .co m
around the world as well
of Southern Brazil right
Fogo de Chao
eponymous eatery is a
serves upscale Mexican
the most famous patios
as 11 different locally
here in the heart of Texas.
309 E 3rd St
true Austin institution. Go
cuisine and a spacious
on South Congress. Try
crafted beer options. Dish-
Indulge in generous por-
(512) 472 0220
early and be prepared to
patio.
the Queso Flameado with
es range from the most
tions of perfectly cooked
An authentic Brazilian
wait! (It is worth it.)
elegant (think duck confit)
meats while experiencing
steakhouse that shares
to casual perfection (the
some of the best service
the gaucho way of prepar-
Frank
AND BAR
classic hamburger).
in town.
ing meats. Enjoy a fine
407 Colorado St
1900 Rio Grande St
KITCHEN & WINE BAR
dining experience unlike
(512) 494 6916
(512) 495 1800
4800 Burnet
GUSTO ITALIAN
ELIZABETH STREET
FABI + ROSI
any other with incredible
Their official motto pro-
Modern spins on Ameri-
(512) 458 1100
CAFÉ
509 Hearn St
service and a well-versed,
claims, "Hot dogs and
can classics and locally-
Upscale-casual Italian;
1501 S 1st St
(512) 236 0642
friendly staff.
cold beer," and...yep, that's
sourced veggie sides inside
solid pasta specials, in-
(512) 291 2881
A husband and wife team
basically it. Bacon-infused
the new Hotel Ella.
credible desserts (orange
A charming French-
cook up delicious Europe-
FOODHEADS
bloodies, a dozen different
Vietnamese eatery with
an-style dishes like pork
616 W 34th St
artisan hot dog options,
G’RAJ MAHAL
a colorful menu of pho,
schnitzel and paella.
(512) 420 8400
and one of the best beer
91 Red River St
olive oil cake!), and an interesting wine list.
Fresh, inspired sandwich-
lists in town: Frank is
(512) 480 2255
HAYMAKER
brant and comfortable
Finn & Porter
es, soups, and salads in
both a markedly more
With an extensive yet
2310 Manor Rd
surrounding patio.
500 E 4th St
a charming, refashioned
civil alternative to dirty
cozy covered patio, G’Raj
(512) 243 6702
(512) 493 4900
cottage and porch.
downtown night and your
Mahal offers a surprising
It's comfort food meets
hangover's best friend.
amount of ambiance for a
sports bar meets beer
food trailer.
pub in Cherrywood, an
banh mi, and more. Vi-
116
chorizo and jalapenos. GOODALL'S KITCHEN
EPICERIE
Recognized for its award-
2307 Hancock Dr
winning wine list and
FONDA SAN MIGUEL
(512) 371 6840
steaks, this Domain staple
2330 W N Loop Blvd
FRESA’S
A café and grocery with
is also the source for some
(512) 459 4121
915 N Lamar Blvd
GREEN PASTURES
craft beer and elevated bar
both Louisiana and
of the freshest seafood and
An Austin institution for
(512) 428 5077
RESTAURANT
food. Get the namesake:
French sensibilities by
sushi in town. It's surf and
over 30 years, serving up
Tasty chicken al carbon,
811 W Live Oak St
The Haymaker is an open-
Thomas Keller-trained
turf with a contemporary
delicious interior Mexican
refreshing agua frescas,
(512) 444 4747
faced roast beef sandwich,
Sarah McIntosh.
twist!
menu and a killer brunch.
and the best guacamole
Feast on continental
topped with flavorful slaw,
Reservations recom-
around.
brunch under the patio’s
tomatoes, a fried egg, deca-
majestic oaks. Try the
dent gruyere sauce, and—
milk punch: it’s legendary!
wait for it—french fries.
easygoing place to get a
Estancia
FINO RESTAURANT
Churrascaria
PATIO & BAR
10000 Research Blvd
2905 San Gabriel St
FRANKLIN BARBECUE
3309 Esperanza Crossing
(512) 345 5600
(512) 474 2905
900 E 11th St
Ste 100 (512) 833 6400
GUERO’S TACO BAR
HENRI’S CHEESE &
Austin's premier Brazil-
Mediterranean plates for
(512) 653 1187
300 W 6th St #100
1412 S Congress Ave &
WINE
ian steakhouse, offering
sharing. Sip a handcrafted
Crowned Best BBQ Res-
(512) 236 1795
4800 Burnet Rd
2026 S Lamar Blvd
the bold flavors and style
cocktail al fresco on the
taurant in America by Bon
Perfect for a date night
(512) 447 7688
(512) 442 3373
lovely patio.
Appetit, Aaron Franklin’s
at the Domain, Gloria’s
No frills tacos and one of
Equal parts charcuterie,
may 2014 tribeza.com
mended! GLORIA’S
P H OTO G R A P H B Y K AT E L E S U E U R
20
14
austin
RESTAURANT WEEK PRODUCED BY T R I B E Z A
PART IC IPAT I N G R E STAU RAN TS 34TH STREET CAFE
MANUEL’S
360 UNO TRATTORIA & WINE BAR
MULBERRY
ALC STEAKS
NO VA KITCHEN & BAR
ANDIAMO ITALIANO
OLIVE & JUNE
BENJI'S CANTINA
OLIVIA
BESS BISTRO ON PECAN
PERRY'S STEAKHOUSE & GRILLE
BOTTICELLI'S SOUTH
ROARING FORK
CONGRESS
RUSSIAN HOUSE
BUENOS AIRES CAFE
SALTY SOW
CAFE JOSIE
SEARSUCKER
CHAVEZ
SIENA RISTORANTE TOSCANA
CRAVE
SULLIVAN'S STEAKHOUSE
DUE FORNI
SWIFT'S ATTIC
ELEVEN PLATES & WINE
TADASHI
ESTANCIA CHURRASCARIA
TAPASITAS
FINN & PORTER
THE MELTING POT
FOGO DE CHAO
TRACE
GUSTO ITALIAN KITCHEN +
TRIO
WINE BAR
UCHI
HUDSON’S ON THE BEND
UCHIKO
JASPER’S
URBAN AN AMERICAN GRILL
LIBERTY TAVERN
WILLIE G'S SEAFOOD AND
LITTLE BARREL AND BROWN
STEAKS WINFLO OSTERIA
R e s t a u r a n t L i s t a s o f 4 .1 5 .1 4
B E NEF I T I N G
Join us for special prix fixe menus at restaurants across town! For every Austin Restaurant Week meal purchased, $2 is donated to Meals on Wheels and More.
DINE OUT. DO GOOD.
M AY 1 1 -1 4 | 1 8 -2 1 Reservations & Menu details available at
R E S TA U R A N T W E E K A U S T I N .C O M
v i e w t h e e n t i r e r e s ta u r a n t g u i d e o n l i n e at t r i be z a .co m
cheese, and wine shop,
(512) 472 6770
Larry McGuire, all while
and out, Justine’s has Aus-
curry dishes all served up
LA TRAVIATA
Henri’s offers a cozy space
A Warehouse District
maintaining the execu-
tin looking east. Expect a
by the friendly staff.
314 Congress Ave
to explore new wines or
highlight, Delectable Pe-
tion, top-notch service,
crowd, even late at night.
take a bottle home.
king Duck and memorable
and luxurious but wel-
specialty cocktails.
coming atmosphere that
HILLSIDE FARMACY
Authentic Italian in a cozy
KENICHI
1200 E 6th St
downtown setting; known
makes Jeffrey’s an old
419 Colorado St
(512) 605 9696
for their wickedly rich and
Austin staple.
(512) 320 8883
In the heart of South First,
delicious Spaghetti alla
Popular downtown spot
La Barbecue whips up
Carbonara.
JOSEPHINE HOUSE
for some of the best sushi
classic barbecue with free
in town.
beer and live music.
1209 E 11th St
JACK ALLEN’S
(512) 628 0168
KITCHEN
Hillside Farmacy is locat-
7720 Hwy 71 W
ed in a beautifully restored
(512) 852 8558
1601 Waterston Ave
50s-style pharmacy with
Savor country favorites
(512) 477-5584
a perfect porch for people
from Chef Jack Gilmore
Rustic, continental fare
KOME
LA CONDESA
(512) 215 9778
watching on the East Side.
on the covered patio.
with an emphasis on fresh,
4917 Airport Blvd
400 W 2nd St
A gorgeous spot to enjoy a
local and organic ingredi-
(512) 712 5700
(512) 499 0300
luxurious French-inspired
Jasper’s
ents. Serving lunch, after-
More than just sushi, this
Delectable cocktails, tasty
prix-fixe meal in an inti-
11506 Century Oaks Ter-
noon snacks, and evening
eatery serves up Japanese
tacos and appetizers,
mate dining room and table
HOPFIELDS
race #128
cocktails, the shady porch
comfort food, including de-
delicious main courses,
that seats just 34 diners.
3110 Guadalupe St
(512) 834 4111
is the perfect spot for a
licious, homemade ramen.
all inspired by the hip and
(512) 537 0467
The second restaurant
late-afternoon paloma.
A gastropub with French
concept of Executive Chef
inclinations, a beautiful
and Partner Kent Rath-
JULIO’S
the bend
patio, and unique cocktails.
bun, delivers a unique
4230 Duval St
3509 RR 620 N
LAMBERTS DOWN-
This Texas tavern serves
array of tantalizing dishes
(512) 452 1040
(512) 266 1369
TOWN BARBECUE
up comfort foods with a
HOUSE PIZZERIA
in a comfortable upscale
An old school, family-run
Best handling of wild
401 W 2nd St
variety of drink options
5111 Airport Blvd
setting. Go for the shop-
Tex-Mex favorite in Hyde
game in town—delicious
(512) 494 1500
and 14 big screens to
(512) 600 4999
ping at the Domain, and
Park. Cash only! Order the
quail salad, rattlesnake
Not your standard BBQ
watch your favorite games.
A choice pizza place for
stay for a delicious dinner!
green chicken enchiladas.
cakes and grilled venison
fare, meats are given an
Located in the Hilton
chops with lobster tail.
Austin twist, like the rib-
Austin.
Oysters, cheese plates, and nightly dinner specials.
LENOIR 1807 S 1st St
hudsons on
a spontaneous night out.
118
(512) 479 8131 LA BARBECUE
bohemian Condesa neigh-
Liberty Tavern
borhood in Mexico City.
500 E 4th St (512) 493 4901
Fresh and simple. Try the
JEFFREY’S BAR
JUSTINE’S BRASSERIE
roasted olives and the kale
1204 W Lynn St
4710 E 5th St
KORIENTE
sugar and mustard. Tucked
Little Barrell &
salad too!
(512) 4775584
(512) 385 2900
621 E 7th St
away in the historic Schnei-
Brown
This historic Clarksville
With its French bistro
(512) 275 0852
der Brothers Building in the
1716 S Congress Ave
IMPERIA
favorite got a welcome
fare, impressive cocktails,
Healthy, tasty Korean
2nd Street District.
(512) 582 1229
310 Colorado St
facelift last year from
and charming décor inside
options like bulgogi and
may 2014 tribeza.com
eye glazed with brown
New from the owners of
Botticelli's, this little resto
Road. Different loca-
(512) 458 6200
serves New American/
tion, same straight-up
Fresh and classic sushi,
comfort food. With an
Southern goodness, from
sashimi and bento boxes.
impressive 24 bar seats,
Moon pies to fried green
they have the biggest bar
tomatoes to corn muffins
METTLE
on South Congress.
to the crème de la crème:
507 Calles St
fried chicken.
(512) 236 1022
LOBBY LOUNGE AT
Created by Rainey Street
THE FOUR SEASONS
MANDOLA’S ITALIAN
proprietor Bridget Dun-
98 San Jacinto Blvd
MARKET
lap, Mettle offers a diverse,
(512) 478 4500
4700 W Guadalupe St
often-experimental menu
Pass time in the luxurious
(512) 419 9700
exciting for omnivores and
confines of the Four Sea-
Casual Italian fare and
vegetarians alike.
sons’ lobby bar, where they
a well-stocked gourmet
whip up both classic and
grocery, alongside a deli,
MOONSHINE
adventurous cocktails.
bakery, and espresso bar.
303 Red River St
SWBC MORTGAGE + FROST PRESENT
Grab a gelato and unwind
(512) 236 9599
LUCKY ROBOT
on the patio overlooking
Both a popular din-
1303 S Congress Ave
the Triangle.
ner and brunch spot,
(512) 444 8081
Chef Shawn Cirkiel of Olive & June
TRIBEZ A
Spring
Moonshine’s decadent
A futuristic dining experi-
MANUEL’S
Southern comfort food is
ence on Congress, inspired
310 Congress Ave
a downtown favorite.
by the vibrant culture and
(512) 472 7555 &
cuisine of Tokyo.
10201 Jollyville Rd
Mulberry
(512) 345 1042
360 Nueces St #20
LUCY’S FRIED
Definitely not your stan-
(512) 320 0297
CHICKEN
dard Tex-Mex, upscale
Mulberry is a wine bar
5408 Burnet Rd
Manuel’s hits all the right
and New American
(512) 514 0664 &
notes for it’s upscale Mexi-
style restaurant that has
2218 College Ave
can cuisine, cleanly pre-
received praise for its
(512) 297 2423
sented in a classy setting.
cozy atmosphere, unique
This year the South Con-
design, carefully prepared
gress favorite opened a
MARU
cuisine, and an expertly
new outpost off Burnet
4636 Burnet Rd
curated wine list.
SERIES A L F R E S CO I TA L I A N F E A S T
T U E S DAY, M AY 6 , 7 p m OLIVE & JUNE 3 4 1 1 G L E N V I E W AV E N U E Tickets $90 | tribeza.ticketbud.com/spring-supper-club
tribeza.com may 2014
119
v i e w t h e e n t i r e r e s ta u r a n t g u i d e o n l i n e at t r i be z a .co m
NORTH
(512) 804 2700
PELONS
PINTHOUSE PIZZA
is one of the hottest new
and you’ll forget you’re
11506 Century Oaks Ter
A brunch favorite em-
802 Red River St
4729 Burnet Rd
spots in town for Japanese
even in Austin. Come
(512) 339 4440
phasizing fresh and local
(512) 243 7874
(512) 436 9605
food: an unparalleled
here for a slow, relaxing
Guests enjoy modern Italian
produce; an exciting and
Elegant Mexican cuisine
Was there every anything
dining experience set
evening to experience
cuisine in a sleek interior at
diverse menu, from foie
in a rustic home with an
better than pizza and
under an airy, beautiful
delicious Russian cuisine,
this Domain standout.
gras to French toast.
enchanting patio.
beer? A welcome addition
backdrop.
and don’t miss out on their many infused vodkas!
to North Burnet, PintNO VA KITCHEN & BAR
PAGGI HOUSE
PERLA’S SEAFOOD &
house offers house-brewed
RAMEN TATSU-YA
87 Rainey St
200 Lee Barton Dr
OYSTER BAR
beer on draft, consistent
8557 Research Blvd Ste 126
SALTY SOW
(512) 382 5651
(512) 473 3700
1400 S Congress Ave
pies, and great lunch
(512) 339 0855
1917 Manor Rd
Subtle design elements
Eclectic fine dining in an
(512) 291 7300
specials.
Japanese comfort food at
(512) 391 2337
make the space cohesive
inviting setting of one of
A South Congress staple:
its finest in Austin’s first
Salty Sow serves up cre-
and modern, and its
Austin’s famous landmark
Expect the freshest fish
POLVO’S
brick and mortar, ramen-
ative signature drinks,
and oysters flown in daily
2004 S 1st St
centric eatery.
including a yummy Blue
creative twists on classic, comforting dishes from a
homes. A spacious patio
from both coasts, carefully
(512) 441 5446
pork belly/sirloin burger
overlooks Lady Bird Lake.
prepared with simple yet
Between the salsa bar,
RANCH 616
Smash. The food menu,
elegant flavors. Go early
patio seating, and deli-
616 Nueces St
heavy with sophisticated
to seasonally topped flatbread pizza are downright
PARKSIDE
on a nice day to eat oysters
cious margaritas, this is
(512) 479 7616
gastropub fare, is perfect
delicious.
301 E 6th St
and people-watch on their
one of Austin’s beloved
Eclectic and spicy! Mmm,
for late-night noshing:
(512) 474 9898
fantastic front porch.
Tex-Mex icons.
the crispy oysters, or the
think triple-fried duck fat
Ranch Slice of Ice, best
fries and crispy Brussels
in town.
sprouts.
Olive & June
This downtown spot is
3411 Glenview Ave
crowded, but the happy
Perry’s Steakhouse
QUATTRO GATTI
(512) 467 9898
hour–with half-price oys-
& Grille
RISTORANTE
Celebrated Austin Chef
ters and tasty cocktails—is
114 W 7th St
908 Congress Ave
ROARING FORK
SALVATION PIZZA
Shawn Cirkiel created
a local favorite.
(512) 474 6300
(512) 476 3131
701 Congress Ave
624 W 34th St
Located downtown in the
Downtown Italian restau-
(512) 583 0000
(512) 535 0076
this southern Italian-style
120
berry-Lemon Thyme
restaurant with a menu
PÉCHÉ
historic Norwood Tower,
rant dishing up delicious
Great spot for lunch with
A cozy spot that serves up
that highlights local,
208 W 4th St
within easy walking dis-
antipasti and huge por-
coworkers or an elegant
delectable flavor combina-
seasonal ingredients and
(512) 494 4011
tance of the Capital Com-
tions of Italian fare; great
night out with friends and
tions of New Haven style
includes Southern and
Enjoy prohibition-style
plex and other downtown
date-night spot.
family.
pizza pies in an inviting
some Northern Italian
cocktails at Austin’s first
landmarks. This location
favorites.
absinthe bar, alongside
features unique décor,
QUI
RUSSIAN HOUSE
bungalow.
standout dishes of smoked
patio seating and Perry’s
1600 E 6th St
307 E 5th St
SANTA RITA TEX-MEX
OLIVIA
duck salad and citrus-
award-winning menu.
(512) 436 9626
(512) 428 5442
CANTINA
2043 S Lamar Blvd
dusted salmon.
Chef Paul Qui’s new HQ
Step into Russian House
1206 W 38th St
may 2014 tribeza.com
(512) 419 7482 &
SOUTH CONGRESS
(512) 482 8842
5900 W Slaughter Ln
CAFÉ
Overlooking Congress
Ste 500
1600 S Congress Ave
Avenue, Swift’s Attic
(512) 288 5100
(512) 447 3905
draws from global inspira-
Fresh ingredients, tradi-
A south Austin hotspot,
tions and serves up inven-
tional recipes, and out-
we recommend South
tive cocktails in a historic
standing margaritas com-
Congress Café’s legend-
downtown building.
bined with bright décor,
ary brunch: carrot cake
attentive service, and solid
French toast and migas
TACOS AND TEQUILA
menu offerings.
are to die for.
507 Pressler St
SEARSUCKER
STUBB’S BBQ
Chef Alma Alcocer is
415 Colorado St
801 Red River St
serving up a taste of the
(512) 394 8000
(512) 480 8341
Southwest in this modern,
Stylish Southern fare
Known for its legendary
industrial space.
from San Diego celebrity
music venue as much as its
chef Brian Malarkey. Go
barbecue, which is tradi-
TADASHI
for the decadent small
tional and satisfying.
12820 Hill Country Blvd
(512) 436 8226
izakaya restaurant near
Ste 350
with tomato jam and
SULLIVAN’S
(512) 263 3200
THE BACKSPACE
Burnet and 183. A great,
(512) 401 2424
prosciutto "dust," farm
steakhouse
Upscale Japanese food
507 San Jacinto St
vegetarian-friendly spot to
In the land of endless
bird lollipops with bleu
300 Colorado Ste 200
and a great ambiance
(512) 474 9899
go with a group and order
queso, The Melting
cheese, and the “cowboy
(512) 495 6504
make Tadashi the perfect
Exquisite pizzas hot out of
everything on the menu;
Pot adds a whole new
caviar.”
A fantastic steakhouse in
spot for a date night for
the wood-fired brick oven
all of the kimchee-rice
perspective on melted
the heart of downtown
those in the Bee Caves and
straight from Naples and
dishes are superb, and the
cheese. If cheese isn’t
SECOND BAR +
Austin. Reservations
Lakeway neighborhoods.
classic antipasti.
beet and avocado tempura
your thing, they have
KITCHEN
recommended.
is a deep-fried treat worth
many entrée fondue op-
indulging in.
tions to choose from.
Ste E105
plates: duck fat fries
200 Congress Ave
TAKOBA
THE CLAY PIT
(512) 827 2750
SWAY
1411 E 7th St
1601 Guadalupe St
Another venture from
1417 S 1st St
(512) 628 4466
(512) 322 5131
THE GROVE WINE BAR
Chef David Bull, Second
(512) 326 1999
Bold, authentic flavors
Zip in for a buffet-style
6317 Bee Cave Rd
offers a swanky bistro
The culinary masterminds
with ingredients imported
lunch or settle in for a long
(512) 327 8822
TRACE
experience in the heart of
behind La Condesa cook
straight from Mexico; cozy
dinner of contemporary
3001 RR 620 S
200 Lavaca St
the 2nd Street District.
up Thai cuisine with a
outdoor seating.
Indian cuisine.
(512) 263 2366
(512) 542 3660
Lively, popular Westlake
At W Austin, TRACE
modern twist. An intimate
Always save room for chocolate fondue!
SIENA RISTORANTE
outdoor area, complete
TAPASITAS
THE DOJO SAKE BAR
wine bar and Italian
focuses on responsibly-
TOSCANA
with a Thai spirit house,
800 W 6th St
AND IZAKAYA
restaurant. The wine list
and locally-sourced ingre-
6203 Capital of Tx Hwy
makes for an unforget-
(512) 436 9633
9070 Research Blvd
boasts more than 250
dients from Texan farmers
(512) 349 7667
table experience.
With such an amazing
(512) 458 3900
wines by the bottle.
and artisans. Great out-
Happy Hour, this is a great
It's small plates and (in-
Set in a Tuscan-style villa,
door seating and excellent
Siena captures the essence
SWIFT’S ATTIC
place to start your evening
tentionally) slow service at
THE MELTING POT
of its namesake region.
315 Congress Ave
with quality cocktails and
the Dojo, a new Japanese
13343 Research Blvd
service.
delicious tapas. photography by jessica pages
tribeza.com may 2014
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v i e w t h e e n t i r e r e s ta u r a n t g u i d e o n l i n e at t r i be z a .co m
TRATTORIA LISINA
UCHIKO
VIA 313 PIZZA
WEATHER UP
WINEBELLY
YELLOW JACKET
13308 FM 150 W
4200 N Lamar Blvd Ste 140
1111 E 6th St
1808 E Cesar Chavez St
519 W Oltorf
SOCIAL CLUB
Driftwood, TX
(512) 916 4808
(512) 939 1927
(512) 524 0464
(512) 487 1569
1704 E 5th St
(512) 894 3111
The sensational sister
Deep-dish, Chicago-style
Cozy and intimate
Tapas on Oltorf in a cozy
(512) 480 9572
Nestled in the Mandola
creation of Uchi, helped
pizza from an East Austin
inside, and laid-back
setting: rich small plates
Step out for a drink and stay
Estate Winery in Drift-
by Top Chef Paul Qui. Try
food truck- perfect for a
outdoors seating, bar-
are spins on old favorites
for the classic fare, from
wood; expect hearty por-
the bacon tataki!
late night out.
tenders create high-end,
and the wine cocktails
sandwiches to frittatas.
handcrafted drinks
are a welcome surprise.
tions of rustic Italian food with a warm, welcoming
URBAN
VINO VINO
environment. Cheers!
11301 Domain Dr
4119 Guadalupe St
(512) 490 1511
(512) 465 9282
TRIO
Unique twists on Ameri-
98 San Jacinto Blvd /
WINFLO OSTERIA
1110 W 6th St
WHIP IN MARKET &
1315 W 6th St
(512) 478 5355 &
Two words, Mussels and
PARLOUR CAFE
(512) 582 1027
9400-A Arboretum Blvd
can classics. With robust
Fries. This classic, dim-lit
1950 S IH-35
Classic Italian fare made
(512) 346 3506
Four Seasons Hotel
menus for breakfast,
wine joint offers excep-
(512) 442 5337
simply and with locally-
Austinites wait hours to
(512) 685 8300
lunch and dinner, this is
tional shared plates and
This funky minimart-
sourced ingredients.
get into either the funkier
This sleek space with a
the perfect respite during
has the some of the friend-
café satisfies keep Austin
lovely trellised patio and
any shopping trip to The
liest service around.
weird with offbeat décor,
WRIGHT BROS.
delicious food overlooks
Domain.
copious beer, and cheap,
BREW & BREW
WALTON’S FANCY
Lady Bird Lake from its
122
Z’TEJAS GRILL
from scratch.
tasty food.
downtown locale or the
500 San Marcos, Ste 105
perch in the Four Seasons
VESPAIO
AND STAPLE
Hotel. Indoor and outdoor
1610 S Congress Ave
609 W Sixth St
WILLIE G’S
Come for a coffee and
seating is available.
(512) 441 6100
(512) 542 3380
401 Congress Ave
stay for a beer. The res-
Daily rotating menus offer
This cute downtown café
(512) 236 9600
taurant/bar serves up
UCHI
the best of the season and
serves a mean morning
Nestled in the first floor of
simple espressos and cof-
801 S Lamar Blvd
the freshest from Vespaio’s
shrimp and grits; your
the Frost Bank building,
fee from Flat Track, an
(512) 916 4808
bountiful garden and local
perfect hangover remedy.
this is the spot for Gulf
ovewhelming assortment
Chef Tyson Cole has creat-
markets. A longtime Aus-
Also an array of delicious
Coast seafood. The menu
of craft beers, and a small
ed an inventive menu that
tin favorite.
pastries, fresh brewed
rotates seasonally with
but tasty food menu in
puts Uchi foremost among
coffee and some killer
other local offerings.
a minimal, industrial
sushi spots in Austin.
sandwiches for lunch.
may 2014 tribeza.com
(512) 493 0963
ambiance.
northern spot.
P E R F E C T LY
SATURDAY, MAY 31
CO-CHAIRS: DEB DAVIS GROVES & MARTHA COONS
Brazos Hall • Downtown Austin PRESENTED BY:
BENEFITING
PA R T Y Tickets and sponsorship available at
komenaustin.org/perfectlypinkparty
INVEST SPONSORS: 97 DEGREES WEST CABIN 21 FILMS RED FAN COMMUNICATIONS STERLING AFFAIRS
style
last look
Anatomy of a Sandwich With a fierce devotion to house-made
ingredients (including charcuterie, bread, and condiments), the Noble Sandwich Company has amassed a cult following of pastrami and corned beef enthusiasts. We wrote about the m
The Fried Bologna Sa ndwich ($7) “This is an example of something my mom would make with that red ring bologna and cheese and it was just the best thing ever,” Martinez says. “Ours is more complicated, but the flavors take me back to my childhood. That’s the fun part of our job. We get to turn people on to things they’ve never tried before, but they still have that safety net that ultimately it’s a sandwich.”
White Bread: Noble Pig's Farmhouse White is enriched with butter and eggs, which creates a rich but light texture that holds up to the moisture that their hearty sandwiches deliver.
The Noble Pig 4805 Burnet Rd. (512) 666 5124 noblesandwiches.com
Olive Oil Pickles: To make the crunchy condiment, cucumbers and white onions are brined in red wine vinegar for five days, rinsed, then briefly boiled with olive oil, fennel seed, and other aromatics. “The oil softens the acidic punch, but still allows a bright flavor that cuts through the richness of our meats,” Martinez says.
a few years ago when they opened the original location (an unassuming storefront that quickly became an essential road trip for foodies). Since then, they’ve expanded (a few miles down 620), and the second restaurant on North Burnet Road opened last month. Whether you swing by for breakfast (try the milk biscuit with country sausage and black pepper gravy) or lunch (for the namesake Noble Pig—spicy ham, pulled pork, provolone, and bacon—or a pimiento cheese with smoked green onions, romaine, and olive oil pickles), you quickly understand that their sandwiches are anything but simple. For instance, the pork in their pulled pork sandwich is slathered with herbs and slow-roasted, moistened with the reduced jus and layered with house-cured ham and bacon. “Everybody understands what a sandwich is,” says Brandon Martinez, who co-owns the restaurant with John Bates. “Wherever you grew up and regardless of what you put inside
Sweet Yellow Mustard: Bates and Martinez have been making mustard in-house since they opened. In addition to an assertive whole-grain version, they make a sweet yellow mustard that suggests French Dijon with a touch of sweetness.
Cheddar Cheese: Makes everything better.
Mortadella: Theirs follows a fairly traditional recipe that’s flavored with pistachios, nutmeg, and house-cured pork belly. “The meat is ground twice and emulsified while it’s cold to create a very fine, smooth texture,” Martinez explains.
of it. We use this everyday comfort food as a catalyst to push the limits of what you can do.” p. disbrowe
124
may 2014 tribeza.com
P h oto g r a p h y by k at e l e s u eu r
Shown: Ami chairs, playful Nido poufs and Zoe rug.
ABSOLUTELY NOT AVAILABLE IN
FLAMINGO
PR I N T
FABRIC.
115 West 8th Street Austin 512.480.0436 scottcooner.com