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CONTENT
PREFACE 04 PRODUCT LIFE CYCLE 05 REUSET 06 RECYCLING 10-14 FISH LEATHER 15 DOWNCYCLING 16-17 INNOVATIVE FIBERS 18-22 FABRIC PORTFOLIO 23-24 STAND DESIGN 25-26 REFERENCES 2
PREFACE In this book, you can find the product lifecycle of INNRI and the portfolio of the fabrics used in INNRI’s first collection. INNRI provides a possibility to construct a garment out of various substitutable elements. The wide variety of elements gives you an opportunity to create a very personal and authentic product. This creates a special emotional bond between the creator and the garment, which results in a longer lifespan of the garment. The INNRI collection is made out of various materials. Every material has a different lifespan, function and lifeline that is explained using a lifecycle of the INNRI collection. Also the quality, constructions and composition vary and are explained in the fabric portfolio.
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PRODUCT LIFECYCLE
Leger Des Heils - ReShare Not wearable garments Down-cycle
Fishskin @Smith Zeevis
Control of garments
Disassembly
Wool Polyester
Re-cycle Re-use
Customer brings back garment or “a part� back
Blend material
Sells garments online & store
100% Materials
100% Cotton Use-fase
Sorted by a fibre sort machine @ Texperium
Saxion University of Applied Sciences SaXcell production Garment manufacturing @Vanbockryck
Cut textile in pieces
Preparing for re-cycle Remove finish and dyestuff Fiber machine
Preparing the solution
Dissolve loose fibers
Convert to staplefibre Add sustainable new fiber Yarn production
Fabric production @Texperium
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Filling material
REUSE Customers will have a personal relationship with their INNRI garments. By offering modularity, we aim to enhance the customer’s emotional commitment to the product in order to extend the product’s lifespan. However, if they don’t want their garments anymore then they can return them to INNRI. The customer can send it back to INNRI or return it in an INNRI store. INNRI encourages the returning of garments. The returned garments are disassembled and controlled on quality at the INNRI head office. If the garments are in good condition they are suitable for the reuse phase and can be sold in INNRI’s second hand collection. The items in INNRI collections are limited in stock and can be attached in various ways, which makes every garment unique. A piece of garment that is returned by the customer can be of value for someone else and fit the construction of his or her own microverse.
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RECYCLING In the recycling phase, the material can be divided into 3 departments: Cotton, blend materials or 100% materials. In collaboration with ‘Saxion University of Applied Sciences, we are able to recycle cotton by adding the SaXcell fiber. INNRI works together with Sympany for the recycling process. Sympany collects all kinds of fabrics and divides them over their partners. The partners are each specialized in recycling a certain material. The blend materials we will use in the collection will be recycled by Reblend and the 100% materials will be recycled at Texperium.
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COTTON RECYCLING After receiving the cotton waste, the fabric is prepared for recycling by removing finishes and dyestuff. At this step, the solution is prepared that is used for this chemical recycling process. This is a closed loop system, because all the water is being reused. Eventually they will be converted to staple fibers and transported to Texperium for fabric manufacturing.
INNRI collaborates with Saxion, University of Applied Sciences, to recycle cotton. Saxion is working with SaXcell fibers to recycle cotton without adding synthetical materials. SaXcell is an innovative cellulose fiber and is similar to the Lyocell fiber, which is produced out of cotton waste. With the use of SaXcell fibers during the recycling process, all characteristics of cotton are maintained. [Oelerich, J., 2017, research Saxcell vezel. Interview, 16 november]. If returned garments aren’t suitable for the reuse phase then the garments will be used for the recycle phase. INNRI will deliver the 100% cotton garments to Saxion. 100 kg cotton waste will produce 95 kg SaXcell. In the process, the original cotton will reduce its originality [Oelerich, J, Groeneveld R.A.J., Bouwhuis G.H., 2016, Development of a new bre from 100% cotton waste]. This innovative cotton recycling method is infinite. At the moment, it is not possible to use this method on big scale, but SaXion is working on possibilities with several partners to make this recycling method work on big scale.
[J. Oelerich, R. A. J. Groeneveld, G. H. Bouwhuis and G. J. Brinks, 2016]
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BLEND RECYCLING The blend materials and the 100% materials are sent to textile collector Sympany. Sympany transports the blend materials to the company Reblend. Reblend is an Amsterdam-based label and agency for innovative fabrics and fashion with a positive impact. Recover and ReBlend have a partnership to make 100% recycled yarn from post-consumer textiles. Reblend uses mainly no longer wearable, postconsumer textile waste (70%) in an ecologically friendly process (minimal water, minimal additional chemicals, minimal dyeing) to make yarn and textiles with a minimal impact. Recover and Reblend make yarns from post-consumer textile waste by blending 70% textile waste with 30% recycled PET [Reblend, 2018]. As you can see in our product lifecycle, the textiles are cut in pieces after the post-consumer waste is received. These pieces go into the fiber machine and the loose fibers are being dissolved. After this process, the 30% PET fibers are added to create a recycled yarn of high quality which is used to manufacture the fabric at Texperium.
[Label 148, 2017]
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100% MATERIAL RECYCLING Sympany sends the 100% materials to Texperium which uses a fiber sorting machine. Texperium experimented with the fiber sorting machine on small scale [Liset Pander, 2018]. The fiber sorting machine is the world’s first automated system to sort textiles based on fiber type. At the moment, the use of this machine is still in development. In 10 years, this machine will revolutionize the textile recycling industry. The fiber sorting machine enables the textile recycling industry to identify and separate textiles that consist of pure fabrics [Valvan Baling System, 2014]. As you can see in our product lifecycle, the textiles are cut in pieces after receiving and sorting the post-consumer waste. These pieces go into the fiber machine and the loose fibers are dissolved. In the conventional way of recycling, there are new fibers added to ensure the strength of the recycled yarns, but it is more sustainable to e.g. add milk fibers instead of new wool or add polyactide fibers (corn) instead of new polyester fibers. After this, the yarns can be produced and the fabric manufacturing can start at Texperium.
[valvan, 2017]
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FISH LEATHER Skin is a waste product of the fish industry, while the organs are used to make animal feed and the skins can be used for manufacturing fish leather. Therefore, we searched for a supplier of fish skins. We contacted Smith Zeevis Rotterdam if it was possible for us to receive their salmon, trout and codfish skins. After we received the skins, we started with the process of turning the skins into leather. The first step was to clean the skin by removing the remaining meat. The other side contains fish scales that also need to be stripped off. After stripping off both the meat and fish scales the skin needs to be rinsed and wrung out a couple of times. The cleaned skins need to soak for 24 hours or even longer in a bath of eggs and sunflower oil. The skins should be entirely soaked in the mixture. After 24 hours, the skins needs to be wrung out again and cleaned in cold water. The skin should keep moving in both the length and the width, otherwise it could set out hard. This can be done by using an iron rod until the skin feels dry. In between these steps the skin should be left to rest. Against bacteria and mold the skin can be smoked, but it should not catch the heat of the fire. Read further to see the making process of the fish leather.
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Tools Tools needed for the process are a cartel knife, a spoon and a pair of scissors.
Step 1 Remove the meat leftovers off the salmon skin. 11
Step 2 One side of the skin is clean.
Step 3 Remove the fish scales on the other side.
Step 4 If the skin does not contain any scales or meat, the skins are quickly rinsed with water. Afterwards the skins have to soak for 24 hours in a bath of eggs and sunflower oil. 12
Step 5 Make fire for the smoke.
Step 6 Take the skins out of the mixture and wring them out as much as you can. At this moment the skin needs to be in constant movement, otherwise it will set out hard. Move until the skins are dry. 13
Step 7 Hang the skins above the fire and make sure the skins are not heated and only catch the smoke of the fire.
Step 8 The finished result 14
DOWNCYCLING If the fabrics no longer have a high enough quality to be recycled, we choose for the metod of downcycling. The new formed product has a lower quality, but the end of life will be postponed.
Fish Leather Fish leather is a very strong material, and because of that we can use this material several times. After reusing fish leather multiple times, the material is no longer usable for clothing, but can be used for example for furniture [Kijkopmeubelen, 2018]. Also, the fishleather in our clothing used as a trimming, which results in an even longer lifespan of the fishleather.
Wool When we can no longer use the woolen materials for our collection, we will hand them over to Brightloops. They will recycle old woolen textiles into new wool sweaters and scarves. They sort the clothing received from various partners by colour., Afterwards the items are cut into fibers. These fibers will be spun into yarns and finally woven into garments. No chemicals, water and dye will be used during this production process [Loopalife, 2017].
Beeswax Beeswax is a greasy substance produced by several types of bees [Vandervorstpr, 2015]. Beeswax is a finish that is not recyclable. It will melt at a temperature of 62 to 65 degrees Celcius.
When the quality of polyester is not strong enough for our garments, we will reuse it for the filling in the garments.
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INNOVATIVE FIBERS The research of Recurf shows a promising processing option of wool in combination with milk fibers [I. Oskam et al., 2017].
In order to maintain the quality of our recycled fabrics, we add new sustainable fibers. We use sustainable fibers instead of conventional ones. Wool In order to maintain the quality of wool, we will add sustainable milk fibers during the recycling process.The company Qmilch is the first large company able to produce eco-friendly milk fibers on a large scale.To produce the fiber, liquid milk will be dried and proteins are being extracted. The proteins are dissolved in a chemical substitute and be placed in the fiber machine. The fibers are added to the wool fibers, which will be spun into yarns and thereafter woven into a fabric [T. Bunge, 2016]. Milk fibers have the same characteristics as wool. For example, the substance absorbs the dye very well.
[Qmilkfiber, 2017]
Qmilch (2016) Fibre production
Water (L/kg)
Pesticides (g)
Fertilizers (g)
Emissions (kg)
Waste water (g)
Raw material production
ID
2
Zero
Zero*
Zero*
ID
ID
2,4
Fibre production
ID
ID
Zero
Zero*
Zero*
ID
ID
Zero
Textile production
ID
ID
Zero
Zero*
Zero*
ID
ID
Zero
Dyeing & finishing
ID
ID
Zero
Zero*
Zero*
ID
ID
Zero
Energy (MJ/kg)
Chemicals (g)
Land consumption (h)
ID: Insuffient Data * Relatively, the cow’s milk can come from plantations that have used pesticides
[T. Bunge, 2016]
Fibre production cycle polyactide (PLA) (2016) Fibre production
Energy (MJ/kg)
Water (L/kg)
Raw material production
54,2
69,0
Fibre production
13,6
8,6
Chemicals (g)
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Pesticides (g)
Fertilizers (g)
Emissions (kg)
Waste water (g)
Land consumption (h)
ID
Zero
Zero
ID
ID
ID
ID
Zero
Zero
ID
ID
Zero
Polyester Polyactide (PLA) is made from organically grown corn, and is a polymer that ressembles polyester. For this reason, we combine polyester fibers with polyactide fibres during the recycling process. PLA is made from the kernel of the corn, which is Qmilch (2016) converted into sugar. The next step is converting Fibre production Water (L/kg) Chemicals (g) be Pesticides (g) Fertilizers (g) Energy (MJ/kg) the sugar into lactic acid. The lactic acid will ID 2 Zero Zero* Zero* Raw material production polymerized, during the polymerization, a single ID Zero Zero* Zero* Fibre production will be created. molecule Out IDof this molecule, ID ID Zero Zero* Zero* Textile production polyactide will be extracted. During the process ID ID Zero Zero* Zero* Dyeing & finishing of creating PLA, there will be less energy usage ID: Insuffient Data such as 20 to 50% fewer fossil fuels and 15 to 60% * Relatively, the cow’s milk can come from plantations that have used pesticides fewer greenhouse gases. The quality of PLA is very strong. [Fibre2fashion, 2018]
Emissions (kg)
Waste water (g)
Land consumption (h)
ID
ID
2,4
ID
ID
Zero
ID
ID
Zero
ID
ID
Zero
Fibre production cycle polyactide (PLA) (2016) Fibre production
Energy (MJ/kg)
Water (L/kg)
Chemicals (g)
Pesticides (g)
Fertilizers (g)
Emissions (kg)
Waste water (g)
Raw material production
54,2
69,0
ID
Zero
Zero
ID
ID
ID
Fibre production
13,6
8,6
ID
Zero
Zero
ID
ID
Zero
Textile production
5,0 - 30
Zero
ID
Zero
Zero
ID
ID
Zero
Dyeing & finishing
34,6
16,50 - 148,0
ID
Zero
Zero
ID
ID
Zero
Land consumption (h)
Polyactide is still in development and it is expected that this can be produced fully sustainable by 2028
[T. Bunge, 2016]
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FABRIC PORTFOLIO
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Fabric name: Velvet Fabric indication: Plain velvet, piece dyed Construction: Woven, plain velvet, V pole Composition: CO Personal description: The fabric feels very soft. It is piece dyed in a red color. It is a plain weave velvet with a V pile.
Fabric name: Organza Fabric indication: Plain weave, yarn dyed Construction: Woven, plain weave Composition: PES Personal description: This is a transparent and very light fabric. It is yarn dyed in a grey and silver color and it is a plain weave.
Fabric name: Harris Tweed Fabric indication: warp faced twill, yarn dyed, brushed, mĂŠlange Construction: Woven, warp faced twill Composition: WO Personal description: The fabric feels rough. It is yarn dyed in a dark grey color. It is a warp faced twill with an brushed effect. The fancy yarn in this fabric is a mĂŠlange.
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Fabric name: Single jersey Fabric indication: Single jersey, piece dyed Construction: Weft knitted, single jersey Composition: CO & EA Personal description: It is a very stretchy fabric and it feels soft. It is piece dyed in a red color. The fabric is a single jersey.
Fabric name: Scuba Fabric indication: Double knitted, yarn dyed Construction: Weft knitted, double knitted Composition: PES Personal description: The fabric feels thick and strong. It is yarn dyed in a black color. This fabric is double knitted.
SaXcell is an innovative cellulose fiber and is similar to a Lyocell fiber, which is produced out of cotton waste. With the use of SaXcell fibers during the recycling process all characteristics of cotton will maintain. Construction: Plain weave Composition: 100% SaXcell Personal description: The fabric feels soft and It is piece dyed in a grey color. It is a plain weave. 20
Fabric name: Combined fabric Fabric indication: Combined fabric, plain weave, single jersey, yarn dyed Construction: Weft knitted and Woven Black: plain weave Blue: single jersey Composition: PA & WO Personal description: The fabric is a combined fabric with 3 layers. The fabric has an blue and a black side. The blue side is a single jersey and the black side is a plain weave. The fabric is yarn dyed. The fabric feels thick and strong.
Fabric name: (2 Fabrics) Harris Tweed & Twill Fabric indication: Warp faced twill, yarn dyed, Construction: Woven, Grey: Warp faced twill, Purple/Black: Warp faced twill Composition: CO & WO Personal description: This fabric has 2 layers. It feels rough and strong. The grey fabric has a check pattern and is yarn dyed. The other fabric is yarn dyed in a purple and black color. The warp is black and the weft is purple. Both fabrics are a warp faced twill. Note: The fabrics in this example are attached with fusing. Normally this fabric will be attached with yarns and not with fusing.
We use old potato bags as fabric for the INNRI collection. The orange bags are made of Nylon. The construction is irregular.
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This brown fabric is made out of rubber. The fabric has a pattern with open diamond forms. The surface of the fabric feels sticky. This fabric used to be an anti-slip mat, but it is upcycled for using it in the INNRI garments.
Fish Leather Skin is a waste product of the fish industry, while the organs can be used to make animal feed and the skins can be used for the manufacturing of fish leather. Personal description: The fish skin still has the texture of its scales, which is why it has a metallic finish. The fish leather is stiff but strong.
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STAND DESIGN
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Wood construction: Class B wood, means painted or varnished wood. Recycling.nl is a company that takes care of the entrire collection and processing of the wood used in the INNRI stand. Fabrics: Hypothetical the fabrics that are used for the stand are can also be used in the collection. This polyester material can be used in later collections and after the use face it is suitable for the recycle face. But not hypothetically after the stand presentation the fabric will be donated to armbandenart to make jewelry pouches. Metal parts used for stand construction: The pieces used for the construction of the stand can be used many times. We can not use it anymore, but someone else can. So, this elements of the stand will be sold for a low price on Marktplaats to give it a second life. Standards: The standards will be borrowed from Beekwilder. PVC construction: We are giving the PVC pipes to Bureau Leiding. They have a pipes collecting system and they create new pipes from old ones which are used during the building of new houses. More than the half of the PVC pipes in the Netherlands are due to this kept in the circulair chain. Paper: The paper used for the collectionbook, sustainabilitybook and brandbook will be recycled to new paper. Further we use ipads.
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REFERENCES
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[Oelerich, J., 2017, research Saxcell vezel. Interview, 16 november] [Oelerich, J, Groeneveld R.A.J., Bouwhuis G.H., 2016, Development of a new bre from 100% cotton waste]
[I. Oskam, M. Jong, M. Lepelaar, K. Nackenhorst, M. Boerema, R. Kate, D. Blauwhoff, P. Agrawal (2017), Recurf: Hergebruik van textiel in biocomposieten, consulted on 16-01-2018 through http://www.hva.nl/kc-techniek/gedeelde-content/publicaties/ publicaties-algemeen/recurf.html]
[Koole, B., 2017, Interview Reshare afgedankt textiel, 16 november]
[Qmilkfiber (2017), Qmilk granulat, consulted on 17-01-2018 through https://www.qmilkfiber.eu/qmilk-biopolymer-2]
[Reblend (2018). This is our story, consulted on 17-01-2018 through http://www.reblend.nl/this-is-our-story/]
[Fibre2fashion (2018), Corn fiber: A new fiber on Horizon, consulted on 17-01-2018 through http://www.fibre2fashion. com/industry-article/4455/corn-fiber-a-new-fiber-on-horizon?page=1]
[Label 148 (2017). Reblend, consulted on 17-01-2018 through http://label148.com/portfolio/reblend/]
[Eberle H., Gonser E., Hermeling H., Hornberger M., Kilgus R., Kupke R., Mener D., Moll A., Ring W. (2014), Clothing technology, 6 edition, Haan-Gruiten: Verslag Europa-Lehrmittel]
[Liset Pander, 2018, Texperium interview, 17 januari] [Valvan Baling System (2014), The fibersort, consulted on 1701-2018 through https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ye9QjzSEuQ] [Loopalife (2017), Brands, consulted on 17-01-2018 through http://loopalife.com/brands/] [Kijkopmeubelen (2018), levensduur van een leder bankstel, consulted on 18-01-2018 through https://www.kijkopmeubelen.nl/meubelmaterialen/leder/levensduur-leder-bankstel/] [Vandervorstpr (2015), Leer zelf je kleding milieuvriendelijk waterdicht maken, consulted on 18-01-2018 through http:// www.vandevorstpr.nl/portfolio-item/leer-zelf-je-kleding-milieuvriendelijk-waterdicht-te-maken/] [T. Bunge (2016), TextielVezelBoek, blz 42 & 39]
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