Th
s tie
Art C i e of
Emilia Romagna
Table Of Contents Introduction Piacenza
Snapshots Of Piacenza Whitewater Rafting On The Trebbia River Instagramming Grazzano Visconti
PArma
A Day Trip to Parma and the Source of Parmigiano-Reggiano Nice Legs! Cycling To The Castle Of Torrechiara Sandwiched Between Parma Ham And Cheese
Reggio Emilia
Off The Beaten Path In Italy One Town, All The Best Food Of Italy (Recipe Included) Five Reasons To Visit Reggio Emilia In Italy
MOdena
Photos From Ferrari Museum In Maranello Modena Thru The Lens Fast Cars - Get Your Adrenaline Fix With Ferrari Joy And Balsamic Vinegar: This Is What Life’s About
Bologna
La Vita É Bella A Bologna 48 Hours In Bologna With €200 How To Cook Tagliatelle Al Ragú A Revisit Of The Ducati Museum Inside The Lamborghini Factory – Making Of Aventador An Afternoon Wandering Through Dozza
ferrara
Meet Fabio Lamborghini - It’s All In The Family Walking The Streets Of Ferrara Pink Flamingos In Italy? -1-
Ravenna
The Wonders Of Ravenna Mosaic Man Dante’s Tomb - Small But Divine The Exquisite Ravenna Mosaics
Faenza
Ceramics, A Frog And Chocolate Salami Road Trip: The Backroads Of Emilia Romagna The Amazing View From Brisighella’s Torre Dell’orologio
Forlì and cesena Five Reasons To Visit Forlì Making Fresh Pasta With Casa Artusi Traditions Of The Land: Food In Italy Magical Moments In Emilia Romagna Off The Beaten Track In Cesena
Rimini
Time Travel In Rimini: From Ancient Romans To Modernity Ponte Di Tiberio - Bridging The Centuries Piadina Recipe: Cooking Piadina And Crescione In Rimini
Meet The Bloggers Nicholas Montemaggi – Blog-Ville.com Norbert Figueroa – Globotreks.com Bethany Salvon & Randy Kalp – Beersandbeans.com Janice Waugh – Solotravelerblog.com Tim & Nat Harris - Acooknotmad.com Bianca Bauza – Nomadbiba.com Michael Turtle – Timetravelturtle.com Dj Yabis – Dreameurotrip.com Caroline Cloutier - Wherecaroeats.com Rachel Lucas - Thetravelbite.com Sara Näse - Getpalmd.com Anita Breland & Tom Fakler- Anitasfeast.com Dave Bouskill& Debra Corbeil – Theplanetd.com
Kirsten Alana – Aviatorsandacamera.com Kash Bhattacharya - Budgettraveller.org Mike Werner - Motorbiker.org Ali Garland – Aliadventures.com Ted & Bethany Rydmark – Twooregonians.com Keith Jenkins – Velvetescape.com Kathryn Burrington – Travelwithkat.com Keane Li – Keane.li Roberta Parisi – Browsingitaly.com Cole Burmester – Fourjandals.com Kate Mcculley - Adventurouskate.com Roberta Parisi - Browsingitaly.com Suzanne Courtney–Thetravelbunny.com -2-
welcome to the art cities of Emilia Romagna Eat, Feel & Live Like A Local In Italy.
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e created this e-book to highlight the jewels located in every art city in Emilia Romagna. The authors of this e-book are travel bloggers who come from all corners of the globe. Each one took part in the Blogville Emilia Romagna project, and this ebook is a collection of their travel stories, tips and advice. It was written for travellers by travellers to help you get the most out of your trip to the Emilia Romagna region. We did this because we wanted to create a fresh and new guide for everyone who wants to experience our cities. We use
Piacenza
Parma
Ferrara
Reggio Emilia Modena
Ravenna
Bologna Faenza Forlì
Cesena
Rimini
the word “experience” because this is what every blogger wrote about in the different stories—their own experiences. In addition to presenting the cities as traditional guide book does, the authors also showcase their own personal experiences—like connecting with locals and finding delicious restaurants and artisan shops—they had while visiting the region. Inside this ebook, you’ll find a plethora of great hints and travel tips that are perfect for anyone who wants to visit and experience Emilia Romagna like a local. The e-book will follow the ancient Roman road Via Emilia, the “artery” of Emilia Romagna, giving readers an insiders look at all these Emilia Romagna art cities have to offer when it comes to culture, history, motorsports, and wine and food. Starting in northern Emilia Romagna at Piacenza and the Po River, will take you through the region until your
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final stop at Rimini on the Adriatic Sea. One thing to remember along your journey through this rich cultural region is that the best sights and must-do activities included in this e-book are not only from the art cities but also in the surrounding areas. In Parma, you will discover the home of Giuseppe Verdi, Parma Ham and Parmigiano Reggiano—a popular Italian cheese known throughout the world. In the area of Reggio Emilia, the third city that you will encounter on the road in this guide, you will find the home of the Italian Tricolour flag and Traditional Balsamic Vinegar. The e-book then takes you to Modena, which is home to famous car producer Ferrari and the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena. The city is also known for the UNESCO World Heritage Ghirlandina Tower, Dome and Piazza Grande. Before entering Bologna you will have a stop at the Lamborghini and Ducati Motors factories, located in the heart of the Italian Motor Valley. Bologna is also the heart of the Via Emilia and one of Emilia Romagna’s best art cities. It’s famous for its leaning towers, it’s 40 km long Porticoes, musical heritage and traditional Italian pasta dishes, such as tagliatelle with ragù and tortellini in broth. Heading to the Adriatic Sea you will stop in Ferrara, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that features rich Renaissance architecture. Arriving on the coast, another UNESCO World Heritage Site of the region awaits you: Ravenna and its magnificent and magical mosaics. The next stop on the Via Emilia road is Faenza, known for the production of the top quality “faience” ceramics. Just a few kilometres away heading south on the Via Emilia lie the cities of Forlì and Cesena, rich in art and culture. This is an important wine production area and Cesena also hosts one of the oldest libraries of the world, the Biblioteca Malatestiana. The last stop on this trip through the art cities of Emilia Romagna is Rimini, which is known for its ancient Roman centre and a 2,000 year old Roman bridge that is still used today. It is also in Rimini where the gateway to the ancient Roman roads Via Emilia and Via Flaminia starts at the Augustus Arch. I hope you enjoy not only reading the eBook but also the journey through the different cities that make Emilia Romagna a region unlike any other in Italy. I hope to see you soon strolling through our Art Cities of Emilia Romagna.
Graziano Prantoni President of Product Grouping Cities of Art, Culture and Business of Emilia Romagna
Liviana Zanetti President of Apt Servizi Emilia Romagna Tourist Board
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Piacenza
city strolls,, medieval villages a whitewater rafting -5-
piacenza at a glance
O
nce a fortified camp during Roman times, Piacenza played an integral role in protecting the Emilian plain from invasions. Located on the banks of the River Po, the city’s old town is packed with medieval and Renaissance buildings, such as Palazzo del Comune, a 13th century red-brick Lombard-Gothic palace considered to be one of Italy’s most splendid medieval buildings. And in true Italian fashion, the Palazzo itself is guarded by two masterpieces from 17th century sculptor Francesco Mochi. These Baroque statues represent Alessandro Farnese and his son, Ranuccio, who both ruled Piacenza in the 16th century. Other highlights include the Duomo, which features medieval frescoes and a cupola painted by Guercino, and Botticelli’s Madonna and Child with John the Baptist in the Museo Civico.
don’t miss: 1. Palazzo Farnese
2. Palazzo Comunale
Photo by globotreks.com
Photo by globotreks.com
3. The Duomo of Piacenza
4. grazzano Visconti Village
Photo by globotreks.com
Photo by globotreks.com
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Getting there: by car: From Bologna take the Motorway A1 direction to Milan or SS9 Via Emilia direction Piacenza. From Milan take the Motorway A1 direction to Bologna. For more information, visit the Motorway website: www.autostrade.it.
by train: From Bologna and Milan there are different trains that leave every 30 minutes. For train schedules and connections, visit the Italian railway website: www.trenitalia.it.
by plane: Flights arrive and depart regularly from the Bologna Airport and Milan Airport.
Piacenza
Parma
Ferrara
Reggio Emilia Modena
Ravenna
Bologna Faenza ForlĂŹ
Cesena
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Rimini
Snapshots of piacenza
by norbert figueroa globotreks.com
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iacenza has always been a transit town between the north and south—especially if you do the often-transited route between Milan and Bologna,
power, religion, and even war. Of great importance in the city’s history is the Farnese Family.
continuing further south.
This city was the foundation of the Farnese
Dynasty and of the ducal rule period. Additonally,
Yet, recently I discovered that Piacenza deserves some
Piacenza was chosen to be the capital of the Duchy of
time of its own. I only spent a couple hours there, but
Parma and Piacenza in 1545.
those few hours were good enough to start scratching the surface of Piacenza’s history and culture—an interesting
I’ve included a few photos of the highlights and sights I
and convoluted physical dialogue between architecture,
experienced in the few hours I was there.
Above: The Palazzo Farnese is one of the major sights in Piacenza. It was conceived by the architect Giacomo Barozzi, also known as Vignola, in the 14th century. Today, it serves as a museum, but originally it served as the palace for the Farnese Family. The scale of the original design was similar to that of the Vatican Palace. But, construction was stopped less than half way after the Farnese family lost their dominance in the region. You can see on the facade how it is missing many architectural details and elements.
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Below: A view of the rear of the Palazzo Farnese. Here you can see how construction stopped abruptly. Details were dismissed, materials were left raw, and entire structural elements were abandoned.
Below: A typical narrow street of Piacenza, which, though appearing quite simple, hides unexpected surprises at every turn.
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Left: The heart of the city – Piazza Cavalli. A Sunday Market populated the square on the day I visited. Contrary to most main squares in Italy, the main square is dominated by a civic building—the Palazzo Comunale—rather than a church.
Right: An older man enjoys his typical Sunday by the main square.
Left: The Piazza gets its name thanks to the two sculptures it showcases, each a bronze statue of a horse carrying Alessandro Farnese, the great strategist and military commander of the city.
Right: The Palazzo Comunale is a gothic structure built at the end of the 13th century. It flanks the Piazza Cavalli and still to this day it retains its medieval splendor. According to the initial plans, the building would have had a rectangular shape, but the work was left unfinished due to the outbreak of a severe plague.
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1. Statue of St. Francis of Assisi in front of the basilica with said saint’s name. 2. On the inside the basilica is decorated with frescoes of the 15th and 16th centuries. 3. One of the many beautiful images of the Madonna and baby. 4. Uncommon to many Italian cities, there are shops built onto the side facade of the Basilica of St. Francis. These shops mark the start of the popular shopping street known as Via XX Settembre.
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1. Via XX Settembre is one of Piacenza’s prominent shopping streets. It connects Piazza Duomo and Piazza Cavalli, connecting a symbol of political power with the religious through a straight road —as it was customary in the Middle Ages. It was renamed Via XX Settembre in the memory of the conquest of Rome by the King of Italy in 1870. 2. Via XX Settembre is also famous for its unique architecture and wrought iron balconies.
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3. At the opposite end of Via XX Settembre is the Duomo—Piacenza’s Cathedral. It is a Roman Catholic church and was built between 1122 and 1233. Today, it is one of the most valuable examples of a Romanesque cathedral in northern Italy. 4. The facade, in Veronese pink marble and gilded stone, is horizontally divided by a gallery that dominates the three portals, which are decorated with capitals and Romanesque statues.
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Left: The Basilica di Sant’Antonio, the patron saint of Piacenza, is one of the great examples of Romanesque architecture in the city and is characterized by a unique large octagonal tower in the center of the Basilica. It was built by St. Victor, the first bishop of the city, around 350 and was completed in 375.
The photos in this article represent just a short example of what Piacenza has to offer. Certainly, this just scratches the surface of this beautiful city that can tell many more stories through its buildings, scars and its own personality.
Did you know? Piacenza was founded as a Roman colony (named Placentia) in 218 BC. Piacenza is situated on the south bank of the Po River just below the mouth of the Trebbia River, southeast of Milan. Piacenza has four sister cities across the world:
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Plasencia in Spain Erfurt in Germany Tolyatti in Russia Placentia, CA in the United States.
whitewater rafting on the trebbia river by bethany salvon & Randy Kalp Beersandbeans.com
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n a wet Sunday morning in May, in a canyon just beyond Bobbio, Italy, a group of rafters and their guide gathered for a descent down the Alta Val Trebbia (High Trebbia Valley). Snug in Smurf blue wetsuits, they laughed and joked with one another about the journey at hand. Then the guide pointed towards the river, setting the novice team into motion. I’d been lost
in a series of flashbacks throughout these conversations, flipping back through my whitewater experiences of the past 25 years—the cold water quickly snapped me back to reality though. After practicing some maneuvers in a placid pool, we paddled into the first rapid. By whitewater standards the
The beautiful blue Trebbia River.
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Trebbia is fairly tame, consisting of only Class I and II rapids. A tributary of Northern Italy’s river Po, the cold water that cuts through the Trebbia’s limestone valley begins 70 miles away in the Ligurian Apennines. By May, the river’s water levels are pretty low but the rapids still churn enough to produce a thrill akin to a carnival ride.
and protruding boulders. Our biggest obstacle, however,
Floating down the Alta Val Trebbia shed a different light on the valley than the one I saw from the curled highway above. At water level, the Trebbia lives at its own pace. Trees color the steep tributary walls in deep greens, and birds sing backup to the rhythm of the river. We were engulfed in sound; yet, somehow, it was more quiet than an elementary school in summer. In between this tranquility, we faced the challenges that the river threw at us—finger numbing troughs, turbulent eddys
us before entering the cavernous tunnel to get down on
lurked just around the last bend. We were well prepared for the encounter with the tunnel. But that’s not saying much. Because until you go into a pitch-black cauldron of whitewater, you really don’t know how you are going to react. Our guide told the raft floor if things got too intense. Some got low from the start, while a few of us, myself included, battled the schizophrenic rapids head on. The long rock tube of whitewater turned the heavy raft into a raging bull that bucked harder the darker it got. The tunnel, which had been created years ago to circumvent a now shuttered dam, had all the makings of an amusement
Our blogville group getting ready to take on some Trebbia rapids.
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park ride, except this was no Disney Land and there was
meal with plenty of wine, local craft beer and hijinks to
no Mickey Mouse. We paddled hard through the black,
go around.
finally reaching daylight again and a large deep pool that held its own surprise: a perfect ledge to jump from.
Like so many things in life, size doesn’t always matter,
After flailing ourselves off the rock ledge a few times, we
It may not have the biggest rapids, but that doesn’t take
polished off one more rapid before calling it a day. On
away from how much fun it is to explore the river by
the van ride back to Sports In Open Spaces, we laughed
raft, especially with a good group of friends. I have no
and recounted stories from our whitewater excursion.
idea when my next rafting trip will be, but when the time
The good times didn’t stop there though. After shedding
comes for a little reflection on the river bank, I’m glad this
our wetsuits at the center, we were treated to a delicious
trip will be at the forefront of my memory.
and the Trebbia River is a perfect example of this notion.
know before you go: The Trebbia River 1. The river basin cuts through Emilia-Romagna, Liguria and Lombardy, totaling 440 square miles. 2. Occupation of the Trebbia Valley dates back to the end of the Acheulian in the Paleolithic Period, approximately 150,000 years ago. 3. Hannibal defeated the Roman army along the river’s eastern river banks in 218 BC in the Battle of Trebbia during the Second Punic War.
Whitewater Rafting Tour 1. Each boat is outfitted with an expert guide who will brief you on the journey and explain the river environment during your tour. 2. You will get wet! Shoes are required for the journey, so bring an extra pair as well as a comfortable change of clothes. 3. There are two sessions daily–morning and afternoon– that operate from April until the river level permits. For more information check out: www.sportsinopenspace.com
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instagramming grazzano visconti by norbert figueroa globotreks.com
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’ve only been to few villages where I could say that as soon as I stepped in, I felt like I was taken back to its original time of glory. That was the case of Grazzano
Visconti. This is a spectacular medieval village located only 11km away from Piacenza. I mentioned it is a medieval village and what we see today truly looks authentic to the medieval times, but the truth is that Duke Giuseppe Visconti di Modrone created this village in the early 1900s. Still, there is a lot of history here since documents bear witness to the existence of a center inhabited as early the 1300s. In addition, the name Grazzano derives from “Graccus Graccianum�, the name of the thenproprietor of the surrounding
1884, when Countess Fanny, born Visconti and married to an Anguissola, lost her husband and only son, prompting her to leave her possessions to her brother Guido Visconti, of the line of the Milanese di Modrone Earldom. Thanks to the work of Duke Giuseppe Visconti the family arms returned to Grazzano, and the village grew from a castle in ruins surrounded by a handful of dilapidated barns and hovels to a neo-medieval-style village. Now, I want to show you the rest of the history and details through my spontaneous iPhone captures from this fascinating, hard-to-believe-it-exists village.
land. To give you a little background, towards the end of the 1400s, Gian Galeazzo Visconti (Lord of Milan), with an edict in Pavia, granted his illegitimate daughter Beatrice, the former wife to the nobleman Giovanni Anguissola
from
Piacenza,
permission to build a castle. This castle proved to be the scene of many battles for various centuries, due to the feud of the Anguissola nobles. Above: The main square, known as Gian Galeazzo Visconti (also known as the Alfa) was family kept the castle until completed around 1915. Today, it is one of the most emblematic spaces of the village. This
important
Piacentine
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1. The building of the Institution was the first seat of the training school of craftsmanship. Count Giuseppe aimed to create a village that was more than just a fitting backdrop to the castle. He designed it to have useful structures to ensure jobs for young people who were completing courses in creative crafts of wood and wrought iron. As of today, this is one of the most symbolic buildings of the village. 2. The “Column Angel” is located next to the Institution and was built in the 1930s. The statue displays an angel in white marble holding the coat of arms of the Visconti. It was erected to commemorate the visit of King Vittorio Emanuele III to Grazzano. 3. Another view of the Institution 4. The House with Arches and Columns. It’s among the
most elegant and stylized buildings in the village. It is interesting because of the rich and fickle decorations with the inevitable snake that identifies the village. One section is characterized by the battlements of the roof and by a series of elegant arches. The other section rests on solid circular columns painted in horizontal bands of a discolored redish purple and white. 5. All buildings reflect the stylistic lines of the first centuries after the year 1000 AD. 6. The entrance of the Gothic Church, which is finely carved and detailed as it would have been in the medieval times. All the carvings, from the profane (twisted columns, corinthian capitals, and twisted volutes) to the sacred (religious figures and the adoration of the virgin and child) were created by Count Giuseppe Visconti.
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Additionally, there are several holy images placed all over the village, making reference to the strong Catholicism found in Italy. One of the Madonnas found today in the village was first created in 1947 as an offering from the Grazzanesi for having preserved the village from the bombings on WWII, which ravaged the nearby villages. Grazzano Visconti is a magnificent place where history, architecture, art, and nature blend seamlessly to create a beautiful scene.
Grazzano Visconti is beautiful!
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culatello -20-
parma at a glance A longtime favorite of foodies, Parma does not disappoint when it comes to delicious cuisine. But its fine food and famous offerings, like Parmesan and Parma, are only a fraction of what makes Parma so special. Along with its beautiful medieval architecture and top-notch restaurants and bars, Parma boasts an outstanding collection of artwork as well as one of Italy’s best opera houses, Teatro Regio. Parma’s Lombard-Romanesque Duomo is revered for its Antonio da Correggio painting in the main cupola, the Assumption and the frieze in the south transept by Benedetto Antelami of The Deposition. Antelami is also the man responsible for the bulk of the city’s 12th century Baptistery and its reliefs. Beyond the Duomo, Correggio has another renowned masterpiece in Parma. The dome of San Giovanni Evangelista features his fresco of the Vision of St. John at Patmos.
don’t miss: 1. the Baptistery in Parma
2. Giuseppe Verdi’s land
Photo by contandoashoras.com
Photo by turomaquia.com
3. the Duomo in Parma
4. Biking in Parma
Photo by contandoashoras.com
Photo by cafeviagem.com
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Getting there: by car: From Bologna take the Motorway A1 direction to Milan or SS9 Via Emilia direction Parma. From Milan take the Motorway A1 direction to Bologna. From La Spezia take the Motorway A15 direction to Parma. For more information, visit the Motorway website: www.autostrade.it.
by train: From Bologna and Milan, there are trains that leave every 30 minutes. For trains schedules and connectoins, visit the Italian Railway website: www.trenitalia.it.
by plane: Flights arrive and depart regularly from the Bologna Airport and Milan Airport. There is also a small airport in Parma that has one flight to London: www.parma-airport.it.
Piacenza
Parma
Ferrara
Reggio Emilia Modena
Ravenna
Bologna Faenza ForlĂŹ
Cesena
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Rimini
A Day Trip to Parma and the Source of Parmigiano-Reggiano by janice waugh solotravelerblog.com
Early morning in Bologna.
W
Patricia and our guide.
e set out before the sun rose. The early hour
Terroir refers to the unique properties that the geography,
was necessary. To see how Parmigiano-
climate, geology, and plants of a place have on the taste
Reggiano is made, you must arrive when
of food.
the cows’ milk arrives. Only fresh milk goes into making Parmigiano-Reggiano—the real Parmesan that is made in
The terroir of one farm is different from another;
Parma, Italy.
therefore, the milk of the cows on those farms and the
I was with Patricia, a Brazilian travel blogger whom I had met in Bologna. We had already seen the origins of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena and this time we were taking the train to Parma, following our taste buds to the source of the Emilia Romagna region’s famous cheese.
cheese that is produced from that milk is different as well. The difference may be subtle, but it is there and this is why the farmers are the producers. In the production process, milks from the different farms are not mixed together. Each goes into a separate vat.
In most cases, a cheese producer is a company that buys
Each is tracked through the production process. This is
milk from many farmers and makes cheese. In the case
the difference between Parmigiano-Reggiano, which is
of Parmigiano-Reggiano, the farmers are the producers.
monitored by the Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano
The facilities and cheese makers are owned and managed
Reggiano, and parmesan cheese from manufacturing
by a cooperative of farmers. The reason for this is terroir.
facilities.
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The Making Of Parmigiano-Reggiano: 1. Each vat contains milk from different farms.
2. A cheese maker begins breaking the curd in the vat.
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3. Twinsies! The curd and the whey separate resulting in a mound of cheese at the bottom of the vat. This is cut in half and the two pieces are referred to as twins.
4. The cheese is set in a brine bath to absorb salt for 20-25 days.
then we get.... -24-
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese! Below: Only the best wheels make the grade. If a cheese does not pass inspection, grooves will be scraped into the sides showing that it is second quality. If it doesn’t meet the standards for second quality, the side and stamp will be scraped off completely.
know before you go: To learn more about Parmigiano-Reggiano and the free tours that are available, you can download this booklet from the Consorzio. The dairies are located out of town but you can arrange for a taxi to pick you up from the train station and take you there.
History at the Palazzo della Pilotta and the Teatro Farnese The town of Parma is small and quaint and has much
I focused on two things. Before entering the Palazzo
to offer besides cheese. We focused on the old city
I was taken with its exterior. As you can see, the
center where the Palazzo della Pilotta, which was built
building is nicely finished but it doesn’t make sense.
in the 1500s, is located. The Palazzo holds the National
What wasn’t there was a hint as to what once was and
Archaeological Museum, the Scuola d’Arte Toschi, the
what might have happened. A bit of research revealed
Palatine Library, the Museo Bodoniano, the National
that the building was badly damaged during World
Gallery of Parma and the Teatro Farnese. Yes, there’s far
War II. I soon learned that the Teatro was as well.
too much to see here in just one day.
But what I saw when entering the Teatro was an elegant
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Italian Baroque theater in perfect condition. It was rebuilt
I had never thought of there being a first proscenium
and reopened in 1962. Some consider this to be the first
theater before. Standing in this magnificent space,
proscenium arch theater, which is our standard theater
breathing the air of centuries of theater felt magical. Alas,
architectural format today. It contains the action on the
it was rarely used as a theater but rather, on occasion only,
stage inside a frame so that what divides the audience and
for ducal marriages and state visits.
the stage is a sort of 4th wall, as it is known.
Above: What’s missing? The Palazzo della Pilotta was hit badly during the war. Sometimes you have to look for what’s missing to see the history of a place.
Above: The interior of the Teatro Farnese. You enter through the Palazzo della Pilotta.
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Above: A view of the stage.
Above: The Teatro has been beautifully restored after being hit during the war.
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Music Our final stop on the day tour of Parma was to The Birth Place Museum Toscanini. It’s a small museum and only requires an hour of your time. It’s also very quiet. When we were there, it was only us and a family who arrived shortly after us. As a result, we all received special treatment, which included an especially extensive tour through the museum and a more indepth look at the great conductor’s early life.
Above: A wall of Toscanini portraits.
Above: The Birth Place Museum of Toscanini.
Below: A room in the museum.
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Nice Legs! by Tim & NaT HARRIS Acooknotmad.com
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ust as we finished up our delicious lunch at Ristorante Cocchi, which included fried zucchini blossoms filled with vegetables and mozzarella, sardines and braised stuffed veal breast, our guide for the afternoon, Mirca, arrived to whisk us away to the Parma hillside. Nestled in its own microclimate, where the dry winds blow down from the Apennines carrying the soft perfume of pine, olive and chestnut groves, sits the San Pietro Prosciutteria, perfect for the dry curing of their Prosciutto di Parma. We pulled into the San Pietro production facility where we were greeted by one of the owners, Annalisa Sassi, and shown into their conference room. She briefed us about what we would be seeing and explained a little of the history of making prosciutto and the San Pietro company. Producing around 300,000 legs of ham per year this is not a small operation (in fact, it’s the largest in Parma) and San Pietro is known as having the highest quality facility and finished product.
As Annalisa continued, I was completely distracted by the largest and most beautiful slicer I have ever seen. Equipment like this really excites me, and as she showed me how it could swivel and adjust, I imagined cutting perfect slices of factory fresh Prosciutto so thin the flavour would have nowhere to hide. With our briefing behind us, we donned our factory apparel of booties, caps and lab coats, and were ushered onto the production floor. We watched as refrigerated trailers of pig legs were unloaded and racked up to be inspected for their quality. The pig legs must meet some high criteria before they are allowed to enter into the long process of becoming Prosciutto di Parma. This includes having the proper amount of fat around the leg, no cracking or breaks in the skin and no unusual marbling that would affect the outcome of the finished product. After inspection, the legs are cleaned and sent through a machine that massages them in preparation for their first salting.
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The first salting is done using 2 kinds of salt; a wet salt (done by machine) and a dry salt that is applied by a professional, by hand, in different amounts on the exposed meat.
The legs are then racked up and moved to a cold room (1 to 4 degrees) where they are left for seven days. Then they receive a second, lighter salting that is left on for 15 to 20 days, still under refrigeration. Next the legs are washed and cleaned again and hung to dry for a few days.
When they are ready, skilled butchers remove the hip bone and give the legs their final trimming ready to be hung for their initial curing of three months in large dark and well ventilated rooms. This is what many consider the most important stage of the cure and where the dry sweet hillside breezes traditionally played a strong roll. In fact, in the old factories they would open up large windows (weather permitting) to let the legs dry using this age-old method. When the legs emerge from their first curing period the exposed flesh has become dry and tough so a coating of pork lard sometimes mixed with pepper (called a “sugra�) is applied by hand to the cut end of the leg. This will effectively seal up the leg allowing the curing process to continue within, slowly and evenly. The legs are now ready to be hung and finish their curing for a minimum of 12 months (from the beginning of the process) in order to meet the D.O.P. (protected designation of origin) standards.
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During their final curing, each leg is also checked by hand using a needle like tool fashioned from a porous horse bone. The bone needle is inserted at five different points around the flesh of the leg and then smelled for quality and uniformity.
five pointed crown confirming them as true Prosciutto di Parma. As we slowly walked down the length of the oldest curing room, with its wooden racks and thousands of legs hung by twine, Annalisa pointed out the shuttered windows that are still opened when conditions prevail and reminded us that this amazing food is made with only three things: pork, salt and time. Our tour had now ended and it was time to remove our protective garments . Entranced by the smell and beauty of the gigantic curing rooms, surrounded by one of my all time favourite food products and filled with respect for how this incredible food undergoes its transformation, I was now ready to sample this delicacy right from the source, yet the slicer of slicers remained empty!
The master prosciutto maker, who quietly accompanied us, showed us exactly how he does it quickly jabbing and smelling while covering the hole he left by pushing some “sugra” over it with his finger. He then handed me the needle and let me give it a go, needless to say this is a job for a very experienced prosciutto maker. After the legs have passed all of the inspections and have cured for the mandatory amount of time, they are ready to receive their fire branding with the mark of the Ducal
I spun around scanning the room for a tray or plate of the goods but I didn’t see anything. A slightly awkward silence filled the room and then it was broken by Annalisa very graciously thanking us for coming while motioning us towards the door. Slightly stunned, our best Canadian manners kicked in and we thanked her very much for an incredible tour, waiving goodbye while heading for the car. Half an hour later we plunked down in our seats on the train, absolutely exhausted from what was an extremely long and wonderful day and ready for the long ride back to Rimini. “I still can’t believe we didn’t get to sample that beautiful prosciutto!” I said to Nat. “It was like receiving communion without the wafer.”
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Cycling to the castle of torrechiara by Bianca Bauza nomadbiba.com
D
uring my first visit to Parma, I was enchanted by how much its citizens love bikes; all over the city’s center bicycles roam freely and rule the streets. That’s my kind of place! I was very impressed to see all kinds of people cycling around: business people, families, young people, older people…No wonder they all look so happy and healthy! And when I saw how green and beautiful the landscape was that lies beyond the city, I knew I had to get myself on a bike ASAP and pedal my way around.
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So after a bit of planning, a day trip was arranged by the amazing BlogVille team. I spent the day cycling with the lovely Gemma Bonardi from LiberiSpazi in the area surrounding the Castle of Torrechiara, located just 18 km away from Parma. By noon, we got to the village of Torrechiara, which lies below the castle and our bikes were already waiting for us, courtesy of A.S. Torrechiara. A few minutes later, we were on our way uphill towards the castle. It was just a short ride up a gentle hill and we wandered a bit around the castle before deciding to go inside. The Castello di Torrechiara was built between 1448–1460
by Pier Maria Rossi, Count of San Secondo di Parma, to honor his lover, Bianca Pellegrini. The castle is the most visited in Parma since it’s very well-preserved and it combines medieval elements with those of the Italian Renaissance. Inside, the rooms are decorated with “grotesque” frescoes, alluding to ancient works that are found in grottoes as oppose to ugly or distorted figures. Also, as it was the custom in those times, each room is named after its most important decoration: Sala di Giove (Jupiter), del Pergolato (Arbour), degli Angeli (Angels), Salone degli Acrobati (Acrobats’ Room), etc.
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In my opinion, some of the most beautiful work was on the ceilings where they had painted many different types of birds flying in the sky; my favorite is the one depicting a scene at sunset. It is just breathtaking! However, the most famous room in the castle is the Camera d’Oro (The Golden Room), which was Pier Maria Rossi’s bedroom. The walls in this room are covered with frescoes alluding to the great love between the Count and his lover, Bianca Pellegrini. Pier Maria Rossi was sent to Milan to study and when he was just 15-years-old he was forced to marry Antonia Torelli to unite their two families and avoid conflicts between them. However, while he was in Milan he fell
madly in love with Bianca Pellegrini, a court lady of the Duchess Visconti. After several years of marriage and having 10 children with Pier Maria, Antonia Torelli retired to a convent, leaving the way free for him to unite with Bianca. He built a couple of castles for her and in one of the photos on the previous page, Pier Maria gives Bianca his sword as a sign of complete submission. After visiting the castle, we continued to cycle the roads surrounding it and I got a chance to photograph the Castello di Torrechiara from a lot of different angles! It was a great afternoon and I am grateful I had the opportunity to mix my passion for biking with a visit to this very impressive site.
know before you go: For information about the castle’s opening hours and prices you can visit Parma’s tourism website. If you’d like to see more photos from my time visiting the province of Parma, be sure to check out my photo gallery.
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sandwiched between parma ham and cheese by Michael Turtle TimeTravelturtle.com
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hey’re hanging from the ceiling, bat-like, smelly and dusty. In the darkened basement you feel like they could suddenly come alive, turn on you in a swarm and leave you with no defenses. They look menacing—partly because of the dimly-lit and enclosed environment, partly because of their resemblance to cocoons of dangerous and exotic predators, and partly because of the unknown. What are they?
They’re Parma hams. In this cellar underneath an old castle in the Italian region of Emilia Romagna, more than 5,000 pieces of pig are being turned into one of the local delicacies—the “culatello” variety of prosciutto. It is one of the finest pork products you will ever eat! There’s a reason some of the world’s rich and famous order their own supplies from here—see if you can spot a celebrity name in the batch to the right.
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What is culatello? The professionals here at Antica Corte Pallavicina take their work seriously. It is a fine art to create meat like this and they’ve been using the same technique for generations. First, the softest part of the upper thigh is cut off to be used. It’s massaged with wine and garlic and then with salt and pepper. The thigh is then left to rest for five days before being put into a pig bladder. It is tied up and hung in this cellar. There is a reason all the hanging hams are dusty and mouldy. They’ll stay suspended from the ceiling for at least 12 months… and sometimes for as long as 40 months! Once they are ready, the bundles will be taken down, the bladder will be removed and the meat will be left wrapped in a cool cloth for two days. When the cloth is removed, the meat must be sliced within one hour. To eat true culatello you must be here in the Emilia Romagna region because transporting it will ruin the delicate taste. So much effort and care goes into ensuring the meat is of the highest quality. It starts well before the pig is even slaughtered. At Antica Corte Pallavicina, they grow their own maize, barley and bran to feed to the animals. I would’ve said the pigs eat better than the humans…but that was before I had my chance to taste the culatello.
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Did you know? You can only eat culatello in the Emilia Romagna region because transporting it will ruin the delicate taste.
Parmigiano cheese We eat the culatello with cheese—parmigiano-reggiano to be exact—which this region is also famous for. And drink it with a chilled Lambrusco made locally. We’re finally out of the cellar, in the castle’s courtyard, watching the sun go down over the river nearby while peacocks meander through the grounds. The balance of the flavours is perfect. There’s a harmony with our setting too.
So much time has gone into preparing this meal – months and months. So much care has been taken with every step along the way. It’s a pleasure to take the time and care to savour the moment.
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Piqued about parma? learn more about Emilia Romagna’s unique delights: • 36 hours in Emilia-Romagna, Italy • The Cheesiest Place On Earth • Video: The History Of Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese • The Cheesiest Blog Post I’ve Ever Written • The Fine Foods of Emilia-Romagna • Photo Essay: Small Town Emilia-Romagna • Hike To Monte Marmagna • Photo of the Day: Giuseppe Verdi Birth Home in Le Roncole
• Randonner en Italie sur les crêtes de l’Emilie-Romagne • Randonnée en Italie – A pied dans les Apennins • Randonnée en Italie – A cheval dans les Apennins • Aux environs de Parme – Le Château de Torrechiara • Le jour où j’ai fait une randonnée dans les Apennins et fini habillée en schtroumpf
• O que fazer em Parma e arredores • Um mundo de queijos • 11 razões para se apaixonar pela Emilia Romagna • Itália: 8 passeios imperdíveis na região da Emília Romanha • Fidenza Village: o outlet entre Bolonha e Milão • Uma visita em Parma ao verdadeiro Parmigiano Reggiano • Teatro Farnese | Quando o barroco se faz 3D • Parma e suas elegantes magrelas
•穿 行 在 四 十 万 条 火 腿 的 “ 森 林 ” 中 •在 威 尔 第 故 里 大 碗 喝 酒
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Reggio Emilia style, art
culatello -39-
a
recipes
reggio emilia at a glance There’s a good chance that you’ve tasted Reggio Emilia even if you’ve never stepped foot in Italy. Known simply as Reggio by its inhabitants, this city of about 170,000 is renowned for a few contributions to Italian cuisine, its most famous being Parmigiano Reggiano (Parmesan Cheese). Reggio is also the home of Lambrusco wine, traditional balsamic vinegar (Reggio and Modena are the only two places in the world that produce true balsamic) and Nocino, a strong walnut liqueur. But there’s more to Reggio than just its cuisine. For starters, the Italian tricolor (white, red and green) flag was invented in Reggio by Ludovico Bolognini in the 18th century. A model of the original flag is on display at Palazzo Comunale. Beyond that, Reggio’s charming historic center is full of great architecture and art. The city’s most famous monument is the Basilica della Ghiara, a 17th century baroque church that features beautiful frescoes, including a Crucifixion by Guercino.
don’t miss: 1. The Valli Theatre
2. The Calatrava Bridges
Photo by Comune di Reggio Emilia
Photo by Paolo Barone
3. The Sala Tricolore, birthplace of the Italian Flag Photo by Emilia Romagna Tourism
4. Erbazzone bread Photo by DreamEuroTrip.com
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Getting there: by car: From Bologna take the Motorway A1 direction to Milan or SS9 Via Emilia direction Reggio Emilia. From Milan take the Motorway A1 direction to Bologna. For more information, visit the Motorway website: www.autostrade.it.
by train: From Bologna and Milan, there are different trains that leave every 30 minutes to the central station. Note: There are high speed train connections to the new Mediopadana train station in Reggio Emilia from the major cities of Italy. For train schedules and connections, visit the Italian railway website, www.trenitalia.it and the Italo train website, www.italotreno.it.
by plane: Flights arrive and depart regularly from the Bologna Airport and Milan Airport. For more information, visit www.bologna-airport.it and www.airportmalpensa.com. Piacenza
Parma
Ferrara
Reggio Emilia Modena
Ravenna
Bologna Faenza ForlĂŹ
Cesena
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Rimini
off the beaten path in italy
by DJ Yabis DreamEuroTrip.com
A
fter getting a tan in the Tuscan Riviera, I crashed at the Blogville apartment in Bologna and took a day trip to this really sweet and totally off the beaten path city in the Emilia Romagna region called Reggio Emilia. I was obviously excited to see a different side of Italy after all the usual cities like Rome, Florence and Milan and girl was I happy too! If you’re planning a trip to Italy, and you want to go offthe-radar and experience authentic Italy, then I totally recommend visiting Reggio Emilia. It’s a beautiful, quaint city brimming with life. Interspersed with the fashion, food and interesting shops are wellmaintained palazzos and churches and narrow streets that end in beautiful courtyards. The lovely Marialuisa from Italy Unplugged Tours showed us around the city.
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It has a lot of quirky shops, interesting restaurant selection and cozy cafes with hot baristas. It’s Italy minus the hoards of tourists. And you’ll only get to meet super friendly, smiling locals. It’s a rich city as well, so you will meet fabulous people here and there. And see lovely grannies gossiping in every corner of the square. I told you earlier this is authentic Italy! I love cities that are bike-friendly, and I immediately fell in love with Reggio Emilia because you see a lot of people biking. Even older people, as you can see from the #gossipgrannies to the right. And not just that, the bikes they own are pretty handsome too. Check them out!
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The Food Is Also To Die For!
I am loving all the pasta sprinkled with authentic Parmesan cheese made from the area.
and then deserts...
...and you should try this local specialty called Erbazzone (spinach pie in English). It’s delicious and definitely a personal favorite.
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Speaking of shopping, they have loads of great shops here. And I ended up buying this fur coat, which I later used on my trip to the Arctic Circle in January. It’s from a vintage shop and was only 70 euros, so it was quite a steal! Note: No animal was killed in taking this picture. Before leaving, we went to check out the contemporary art at Collezione Maramotti. It has an amazing, international contemporary art collection spanning the years from 1945 till today. The collection is housed in the historical headquarters of the Max Mara company. How to get to Reggio Emilia: From Bologna, take the 30 minute train ride to Reggio Emilia with Trenitalia for only 9 euros. If you’re lucky, you will arrive at the stylish, new train station designed by Calatrava.
Did you know? Reggio Emilia is called the City of the Italian Flag because the Italian flag was first created here on January 7, 1797. visit the Tricolor Museum to see it for yourself.
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one town, all the best food in italy (recipe included)! by caroline cloutier wherecaroeats.com
N
estled in the province of Emilia Romagna is one town you should absolutely visit if you truly want to know what to eat in Italy. Parmesan,
Lambrusco wine, pasta, cured meats, balsamic vinegar— you can find all the best food here in beautiful Reggio Emilia, home of 170,000 incredibly welcoming Italians
and was aged in barrel for a minimum of 12, 18 or 25 years. More years mean more taste, more texture, thus more quality. Foodies will be happy to spend 75 euros on a tiny bottle to bring back home, where the precious droplets will later be used as a garnish on their favorite recipes.
and the birthplace of the tricolor Italian flag!
The center of Reggio hosts an outdoor market on some Last October, I visited the small city of Reggio Emilia, days and is full of food stores all more appealing than the or, as the locals call it, simply “Reggio”. I had the chance previous ones. Casa Del Miele (Via Broletto 1/A, 42121 to be accompanied by Marialuisa from Italian Unplugged Reggio Emilia) sells the most amazing products since Tours who is an expert tour operator of the region and 1946: chocolates, honey and jams as well as two regional who taught me all about Reggio’s best food and touristic specialties: sughi d’uva—a sweet paste made of red grape attractions. While the city is not known to most tourists, must, flour and sugar—and the tortellini dolci reggiani. it definitely should be added to No, this is not the pasta we’re your own personal food tour if talking about here, but a While the city is not you plan to visit Italy. Those pastry—more or less a turnover known to most tourists, visiting Tuscany will find it —that can be filled with cream very close and easy to reach or jam, oven-baked or fried. it definitely should by train (especially with the Another popular pastry here, new high-speed train station a savory one, is the erbazzone: be added to your own inaugurated in 2013) and your either baked or fried, it’s personal food tour if tastebuds will thank you for basically a salty cake filled with the excursion. you plan to visit Italy. spinach or other greens and local Parmigiano Reggiano. The whole region of Emilia Romagna bursts with incredible food. It is home to the The popular pasta here is the cappelletti. Belly-button real traditional balsamic vinegar, called Aceto Balsamico shaped, it’s made out of eggs and flour like all good fresh Tradizionale di Modena (produced in the city of Modena, pasta. Ever since I was little, I was told a story about an probably the most globally known) but also “di Reggio Italian man who showed my ancestors how to make these Emilia,” both products are of high quality and are little beauties. The story says that about 100 years ago, protected by the European Union’s Protected Designation my great- (or great-great?) grand-mother’s house hosted of Origin and the Denominazione di Origine Protetta. an Italian man in her small French Canadian town. Why? This is serious business and has nothing to do with the I have no clue. But what I do know is that every year, commercial product balsamics you’ll find at your local the women in my family and I make the cappelletti, supermarket. True balsamic vinegar is thick and syrupy and we eat them as noodles in a soup. During my stay
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Below: Cappelletti Making in Melli restaurant
in Bologna, I made my own version of that soup, called cappelletti en brodo. The noodles are usually filled with meat (beef, prosciutto, pork, veal and giblets), nutmeg, breadcrumbs and yes, you guessed it, regional grated Parmigiano Reggiano. (Let me tell you one thing: the quality of the products we found in Italy we’re so much better than those in my little hometown that the soup was a hundred times better than usual! Please don’t tell my grandma.)
And what about this famous parmesan? You’ll find it here in Reggio although the main shop is in Parma. It is always made with a mix of the buttermilk from the day before and liters of fresh milk. The
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parmesan-making process starts early in the morning and takes about 2–3 hours of manual work. The men start by mixing the milk in a tank before adding whey and raising the forms into a heavy ball that falls at the bottom of the tank. After being recuperated with the help of a cloth, the ball is transferred into a round mold where over two daysit will take its shape. The cheese will then be bathed in salted water for 20-something days before being put on a shelf to age for a minimum of 12
months, after which it will be inspected for quality. Just as the vinegar, the quality is rigorously controlled and if it meets the requirements of the Consorzio ParmigianoReggiano, it will be marked with their logo. If not, it will be marked with lines and will not be sold as Parmigiano Reggiano, but under a different name and for a cheaper price. One of the most celebrated (and expensive) parmesan cheeses is the Vacche Rosse Parmigiano Reggiano.
If you have the chance to get a hold of these two incredible products, Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale and Parmigiano Reggiano, here’s a simple idea for a snack: Break a piece of cheese with your fingers, top it with a drop or two of vinegar and let it melt in your mouth. Enjoy. This, my friends, is Italy.
And if you’re still hungry, serve it alongside some cured meats. In Reggio, the Cotechino Modena (pork, fatback and pork rind) is a popular sausage. You’ll find this product and many more at Antica Salumeria Di Giorgio Pancaldi (Via Broletto, 1/P, 42100 Reggio Emilia).
I could talk about Reggio (and Italian food in general, to be honest) for days, but an article about the best food of Italy would not be complete without a true authentic Italian recipe starring…yes, Parmigiano Reggiano! Here’s my twist of a Basic Parmesan Risotto.
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Risotto al Parmigiano Recipe
Ingredients: •
1.5 litres of chicken stock
• 1 chopped onion • 2 cups of Arborio rice • 2 small glasses of dry white wine • Salt and pepper
Enjoy immediately!
• freshly ground black pepper • A knob of butter • 90 g of Parmesan cheese, freshly grated • Drops of traditional balsamic vinegar
Instructions: Heat the chicken stock. In a separate pan, cook the onions in butter for 10 minutes on low fire. Add the rice and turn up the heat. Cook it while stirring constantly for a minute then add the wine. When the wine has been absorbed by the rice, add a ladle of stock to it and a pinch of salt. Turn down the heat and keep on adding ladles of stock until the rice has absorbed all the liquid of the previous one. Keep on stirring and adding stock little by little until the rice is soft. It should take about 15 minutes. Remove the rice from the heat, add the butter and the Parmesan and stir. Add salt and pepper if needed. Cover with a lid and let it rest for 2 minutes. It should be very creamy at this point. Interested in visiting the Parmigiano Reggiano factory in Parma? It’s located on Via Puppiola, 15, 43122 Parma. You can contact the coop by email at info@cplparma.it.
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five reasons to visit reggio emilia in italy by rachelle lucas thetravelbite.com
W
hile there are many cities in Italy I’d recommend visiting, this is one where I’d also recommend living. After just spending a day here, I was ready to pack my bags and start apartment hunting. It’s quaint, stylish and sophisticated, yet also very welcoming. (And how could it not be, it’s the home of fashion icon Max Mara!) The people are proud, yet friendly. In fact, I’d say I encountered the friendliest Italians ever in Reggio Emilia. While the area is not typically frequented by tourists, locals seem very eager to welcome visitors. One gentlemen actually stopped our group in the street and invited us into his building’s courtyard so we could
admire the stone lace frescoed walls while he explained to us the history of the construction. Everywhere we went, residents were eager to say hello and share what they loved best about their city. From restaurants to try, to places to shop, and even mustsee pieces of art, there was an overwhelming sense of community here. While I might divulge some great reasons to visit, I confess I’m a bit worried that big crowds would dampen it’s charm. But if you’re the type of traveler that likes to go off the beaten path, Reggio Emilia is definitely for you. Here are the 5 reasons why I recommend going there:
1. History: Did you know that Italy’s tri-color flag was first adopted in Reggio Emilia? There is the “Tricolore’s Room” in City Hall and a small museum where you can learn about how the flag was chosen to represent the Cispadane Republic in 1797 (60 years before Italy became a country). Another fun fact is that all of these little cities, such as Reggio Emilia, are 30km apart because that is how far a Roman soldier could walk in a day.
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2. food: Reggio Emilia is known for producing Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and balsamic vinegar, but I also recommend tasting their herbed pumpkin ravioli when you find it on a menu. For lunch, try Ristorante il Pozzo. Their outdoor courtyard is quite enchanting and their selection of pastas and wine will have you wanting to stay all afternoon.
Walking through the streets you’ll also find countless bakeries luring you in with fresh made sweets. There’s also one of the most creatively inspiring coffee shops I’ve ever visited along Piazza Fontanesi. It’s easy to find because of it’s name: Caffé Fontanesi.
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3. arts: Valli Municipal Theatre is simply breathtaking. If you have the opportunity to see a concert, ballet, or opera live within these historic walls, consider yourself one of the lucky ones. Elaborate frescoes adorn the ceiling, the main stage curtain is painted, and the gilded box seats with their crushed red velvet chairs will have you applauding with excitement even before the show has started. Another point of interest is The Maramotti Collection, a contemporary art exhibit in the historic factory of Max Mara. Entrance to the museum is free, but you must make an appointment.
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4. education: If you google “Reggio Emilia,” the first couple of results in your search are likely to be about a method of education. That’s because the region is famous for its philosophy of teaching, which focuses on encouraging children to explore what interests them rather than what is required or needed. While standing in line at customs during a flight back to the United States, Pete and I actually struck up a conversation with a fellow traveler who was a teacher heading back to Oregon after studying the Reggio Emilia approach in Italy. Small world!
5. bicycles: Being the wife of a hobby cyclist, I was very impressed with the bike culture here. It seems to be the preferred mode of transportation, whether pedaling something sporty or stylish. If you feel like going for a ride or just a stroll around town, Reggio Emilia has the longest city bike trails in Italy. I couldn’t stop taking pictures of all the beautiful bicycles. Take a look …
Need a guide while you’re there? If you’re not fluent in Italian, I recommend it. You’ll get so much more out of the experience. Check out Italian Unplugged Tours for guides that go off the beaten path to areas like Reggio Emilia.
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Revved about Reggio-emilia? learn more about the birthplace of the italian flag: • In The Land Of Matilde • Without A Map • Why Reggio • Searching For Calatrava • Slow Travel • Slow Food • A Northern Cheese Experience • Returning To Reggio • A Taste of Italy | Acetaia San Giacomo – Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia • A Northern Cheese Experience
• Emilia Romagna Für Genießer
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culatello -55-
modena at a glance What started as thriving Roman colony is now the home of two of the world’s greatest car manufactures—Ferrari and Maserati. Modena, which rose to medieval prominence with the help of d’Este nobles from Ferrara, is also the birthplace of legendary opera singer Luciano Pavarotti. And if that wasn’t enough, the city’s famous aged balsamic is loved the world over; this is where U.S. President Barack Obama gets his supply from. But Modena has even more to offer the curious visitor. The city is one of the most desirable historic destinations in Emilia Romagna. Among the highlights are Modena’s magnificent Duomo, which features large reliefs on its main façade by 12th-century sculptor Wiligelmus, and the Palazzo dei Musei—the city’s best museum and gallery. Inside the museum’s Galleria Estense, you’ll be able to see the works of Ferrarese and Emilian artists, such as Reni, Bernini and the Carracci family.
don’t miss: 1. Maranello home of the Ferrari
2. the Duomo in Modena, UNESCO Site Photo by anitasfeast.com
Photo by getplamd.com
3. A visit to a Traditional Balsamic Vinegar Producer Photo by carnetdescapades.com
4. Lambrusco wine Photo by cafeviagem.com
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Getting there: by car: From Bologna take the Motorway A1 direction to Milan or SS9 Via Emilia direction Modena. From Milan take the Motorway A1 direction to Bologna. From Verona take the Motorway 22 direction to Modena. For more information, visit the Motorway website: www.autostrade.it.
by train: From Bologna and Milan, there are different trains that leave every 30 minutes. For train schedules and connections, visit the Italian railway website: www.trenitalia.it.
by plane: Flights arrive and departe regularly from the Bologna Airport. For more information, visit www.bologna-airport.it.
Piacenza
Parma
Ferrara
Reggio Emilia Modena
Ravenna
Bologna Faenza ForlĂŹ
Cesena
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Rimini
PHOTOS FROM FERRARI MUSEUM in MARANELLO by SARA NÄSE getpalmd.com
F
time. But they really know what they’re talking about, so it’s nice to listen and learn. It’s 150€ per guide and they need to be booked in advance. If you’re a small group and can split the cost, then it is totally worth it.
There is a bus tour called the “Factory & Track Tour,” but you don’t get off the bus, so basically you can’t see that
The F40 and the 458 Italia—wow. Did you know that mister Enzo Ferrari actually prefers yellow over red? So, if you’re a true Enzo fan you should absolutely get
errari open your factory doors because I want in! I loved seeing the Lamborghini factory, and I would have loved to see the Ferrari factory, but they wouldn’t let me in until I’m rich enough to buy a Ferrari, so I’ll just have to wait.
much of the assembly line. I didn’t try it, though. I’m sure the tour is alright, but I’d prefer the full menu and not just an appetizer. BUT the Official Ferrari Museum in Maranello is a cool place even though you’re not allowed to see the assembly lines. Nice cars (see the photos) and I had such a nice guide (Andrea M.) that I have to recommend a guided tour there, even though I’m usually the type of person who prefers to wander around solo and take my own
a yellow Ferrari. Standing next to a Ferrari Enzo (or the shell of it) and to see the proportions… it’s a spaceship. It would suit me and I already have a pair of matching silver astronaut pants. That car is seriously low, wide, long, and it’s all over the place. The problem, however, is that I would look almost too cool if I owned one, but no worries, because I will never afford one anyway! But hey, instead of listening to me why not just view the photos?
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modena through the lens
by anita breland & Tom Fakler anitasfeast.com
M
odena occupies a sweet spot in the heartland of Emilia Romagna, Italy’s breadbasket and economic engine. With many kilometers of
The city’s virtues for the curious traveler are many. Its
cycling paths, a compact city center, and superb food
were united in a Christian city. The Dukes of Este held
to fit any traveler’s budget, the little city has long been on my bucket list of Italian places to go. Last week, I had the good fortune to spend several days there. The city was tastefully decorated for Christmas and the main sights were all within walking distance of my hotel, along
medieval heart is a superb example of architecture from the 12th century, a time in which religious and civic values court in Modena for almost 500 years, and left their mark on the city’s architecture, arts and cuisine. Automobile innovator Enzo Ferrari and acclaimed operatic tenor Luciano Pavarotti were both Modena native sons.
arcaded streets blessed with options for good espresso.
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1
2
3
4
1. The Piazza Grande is the soul of the medieval city center. It is ringed by the cathedral, the Ghirlandina Tower and here, the Town Hall. Townsfolk were once punished for their misdeeds on the pillary, which stood atop the stone “table” in the lower left corner of the photo. 2. Modena’s cathedral, the Duomo, designed by Lanfranco and decorated by Wiligelmo, is a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque architecture (with some Gothic additions). 3. The Duomo’s facade features bas-reliefs telling stories from Genesis, such as Adam and Eve’s expulsion from the Garden of Eden. 4. The rear entrance to the Duomo opens onto the old market square, and its lintel pays homage to tradesmen.
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2
3
1
4
1. The Ghirlandina is the symbol of Modena, a civic tower locally named for the “garland” of balustrades crowning its spire. 2. Inside Palazzo Comunale, the Town Hall, frescoes tell stories of Modena. These 16th century frescoes by Nicolò dell’Abate decorate the walls of Sala del Fuoco (Fire Room) with scenes of the Battle of Modena in 42 B.C. 3. The Baroque Ducal Palace on the Piazza Roma was built for Italy’s powerful Este family. It now houses Modena’s military academy. 4. A recent addition to the museum scene in Modena is the Museo Casa Enzo Ferrari, dedicated to the designer’s life and work. The airy exhibition space is topped by soaring yellow panels.
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Modena is a great place to experience world-class Parmigiano-Reggiano, Lambrusco wine, and above all, the region’s signature product, Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale. The gastronomic delights of the region merit their own post. For now, here is a sampler:
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Fast Cars – Get Your Adrenaline Fix with Ferrari by dave bouskill & debra corbeil theplanetd.com
W
hen visiting Emilia Romagna, you can’t help but get excited over cars. Known as the land of motors, this Italian province takes fast cars seriously. How can you not when such iconic manufacturers like Enzo Ferrari and Ferruccio Lamborgini were born and raised here? Our first Italian fast car experience took place near the town of Modena, the birthplace of Mr. Enzo Ferrari. Here you can have the ultimate Ferrari experience, exploring two museums and having the chance to take one for a spin on the track at Autodromo di Modena. Isn’t everyone’s fantasy to get in a race car just once in their lives? We’ve missed a couple of opportunities in the past to drive on a track, so we were so excited to finally get behind the wheel. Anyone can drive a Ferrari, as long as they have a drivers license and some extra cash. Driving experiences at Autodromo di Modena start at €350 but to have the “Ferrari Red Experience” it’s €650. The
Red
includes
Experience five
laps
around the track with an instructor. If you are a car lover, you’ll find the price worth every penny. It you’re not, well, you’re still going to love it. What a rush!
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Fast Car Driving Instruction We watched a video of the course where our instructor Pietro talked us through what we’d be doing, where we’d be braking and where we’d be able to let the car go full throttle. We then got ourselves geared up with helmets and an intercom, so that we could hear and speak to Pietro, strapped ourselves into the driver’s seat and had final instructions before speeding off around the track.
We were driving the Ferrari F430, which cannot be driven on the road. This baby is made for speed. If you’re worried at all about shifting gears, don’t be. This car has no clutch and the 6-speed gear shift is a feather shifter on the steering wheel. All you have to do is listen to the rev of the engine to decide when to shift. It’s quite easy actually. You just have to listen to Pietro’s instructions and everything will be fine.
See the Video of Just How Easy it is!
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The car starts with one swift push of a button and in no time, we were speeding around the track. It’s quite a thrill and you feel totally confident with the help of your instructor. Pietro told us when to brake, and where to steer when coming out of corners. If you are concentrating too hard and forget to shift, he’ll tell you what to do, and if you are approaching a bend too fast, don’t worry, he has a brake on his side of the car and will brake for you if you don’t get the job done. When we came to the straightaways, we could really let her rip and Dave even managed to shift right up to 6th gear. I felt foolish afterwards when Dave asked me if I got into 6th and I replied “I forgot there were 6 gears and I stopped shifting at 5!” Oh well, it still felt fast to me.
taking the media tour, so we only got a taste, but two laps was still awesome and enough to give us the chance to go around once to feel it out and use the second lap to have some fun. I can’t imagine how fast we’d be going if we had another three laps to find our comfort zone. After we finished the drive, the adrenaline was pumping high. It had almost the same feeling you get after a skydive or flying a stunt plane. It may not feel as terrifying as the other two beforehand, but driving a ferrari gives the same rush afterwards. You’re definitely on a high. It’s one of those moments that is a once-in-a-lifetime experience and it’s something that makes you feel all giddy inside.
Our party of five bloggers taking part in Blogville took turns on the track while cheering each other on. We were
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ferrari museums Lucky for us, our Ferrari experience didn’t stop there. To keep the mood going, we took a drive to the Ferrari Museum in Modena. Ferrari is so popular in Emilia Romagna, that there are not one, but two Ferrari museums. The first, Enzo Ferrari’s home was more interesting for us than the second. At the Museo Casa Enzo Ferrari, you will see the home where Enzo Ferrari was born and get a glimpse into the man behind the myth. Not only will you see his home, but right beside it is a futuristic gallery housing vintage ferraris. Once you’ve had your fill of the classics, you can catch the shuttle to the Ferrari Museum in Maranello. The cost of the shuttle is €10 per person for the roundtrip journey, which is about a 30 minute ride each way.
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It’s here that you’ll see the show stoppers. All the Formula One winning Ferraris are on display from 1999, Ferraris from the movies, Ferrari concept cars, videos, race simulators, engine sounds…you name it, the mueseum has got it. The Ferrari Museum in Maranello is one of the most popular attractions in the area. It’s very crowded and you’ll have to be very patient to take photographs free from people, but it’s pretty amazing to see all these cars on display in one place. If you’re a race fan and love fast cars, this experience is definitely for you. Take an entire day
the shuttle to the next and you’re done! You’ll certainly
to make it all about Ferrari. Start at the track in the
have gotten your fill of cars and go home completely
morning, head back to Modena for one museum, catch
satisfied that you now know everything about Ferrari.
For more information on the Ferrari Experience check out the links below: Autodromo di Modena - For information on track race experiences. Enzo Ferrari Museum – Birthplace and office of Enzo Ferrari and Vintage Ferraris on display for €13. Ferrari Museus Maranello – All the Ferrari cars on display that you can think of for €13. You can get a package deal to both museums for €22. Emilia Romagna Tourism - For more information on this area of Italy. Blogville Emilia Romagna - Follow Travel Bloggers as they explore the Emilia Romagna Region of Italy.
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Joy and balsamic vinegar: This is what life’s about by janice waugh solotravelerblog.com
J
oy. La dolce vita. That’s what I found. What I was looking for was traditional balsamic
vinegar and its glorious taste. I wanted to savor it. I wanted to understand it. I wanted to know how to buy it. You see, before leaving for Bologna, I was given a mission by my sister to find a supplier of the real Balsamico. I accepted the assignment with pleasure but I needed details.
Modena – the home of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale Traveling in the Emilia Romagna region, I’ve learned that there is industrial food and then there is food. 1. There is Parmesan and then there is Parmigiano-Reggiano. 2. There is Prosciutto and then there is Prosciutto di Parma. 3. There is balsamic vinegar and then there is Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena.
Most balsamic vinegar you buy is produced by industry in vast quantities. Quality varies and the taste is simple. Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena is produced by families with their own vineyards and sometimes generations of experience. Its flavor is rich and complex. It is carefully regulated by the Corsorzio Produttori Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, so if a bottle has the Tradizionale seal as shown in a picture below, you can be sure that it has been produced in the the traditional method that has been passed down for centuries.
So, back to my story. I found la dolce vita at the Antica Acetaia Villa Bianca. As you may already know, I’m staying in an apartment in Bologna with two other bloggers – Patricia of Turomaquia and Kristen of Be My Travel Muse. One day a week we travel together. This time our destination was Modena. Upon arrival at the Antica Acetaia Villa Bianca (acetaia is directly translated as vinegar cellar), we were greeted by Emilio and Aurora—brother and sister. Just as they were
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getting started with our tour Irene, their mother, arrived
Emilio, then his mother, then Aurora, and then Emilio
with great flare. While Emilio had one plan for the tour,
again. The family dynamic was delightful as was their
she had another. He took back the reigns and then his
exuberance for sharing their passion for Aceto Balsamico
sister had a suggestion. Back and forth it went, first
Tradizionale with us.
As you can imagine, touring the acetaia was both educational and fun!
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The making of traditional balsamic vinegar. To
make
Aceto
and 40 years to produce 25-year-old
Balsamico
Tradizionale di Modena, the grapes
vinegar. These numbers don’t add
must reach a sweetness level of
up because every year 1/3 of each
at least 18% before harvesting.
barrel is added to a barrel of the
The grapes are then crushed
next year to keep the vinegar
and the must (freshly
making
pressed juice) is cooked.
process
alive.
Because of this, it takes
The cooked juice is
more than the years
then put in barrels
declared on the bottle
for aging.
to have all the vinegar inside aged for the stated
The first stage of aging
number of years.
is six years. At this point, the vinegar is wonderful but
Trust
the standards of the Corsorzio
me,
I
don’t
really
understand the math, but this is
require more. The vinegar must
how it was explained to me.
be aged for at least eight more years
Does the fact that I don’t understand
to produce 12-year-old balsamic (the minimum age that Balsamico Tradizionale can be sold)
bother me? No, the proof is in the tasting.
Tasting a vinegar made with love. After seeing the production process, we went into the attic of the house where the barrels of vinegar were aging beyond six years. They are housed in the attic so that the vinegar lives the heat of summer and the cold of winter—a necessity in the making of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale.
personal experience. The stories of how one has lived with food will determine how we describe a new food experience. I tasted cherries and chocolate with a bit of an acidic kick. I would call it liquid gold.
And the taste? As Emilio explained, taste is affected by
know before you go: The family is pleased to accept people for tours throughout the year; though, they recommend the spring and fall. The tours are free but must be arranged in advance either with them through their website or through the Modena Tourist Bureau.
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need more modena? learn more about Emilia-Romagna’s automotive playground: • The Land Of ‘Black Gold’: A Visit To The Acetaia di Giorgio, Modena • When Art And Architecture Meet • Traditions Of The Land: Food In Italy Part II • You’ll Catch More Flies With This Vinegar! • Balsamic Vinegar Tasting At Acetaia Di Giorgio • Italy’s Motor Valley, Emilia Romagna • Museo Casa Enzo Ferrari Modena • Paying Homage To Enzo Ferrari’s Prancing Horse • Day Trip To Modena • Enzo Ferrari - The Dreamer, The Visionary • Cars Are Only Beautiful When They Win • Acetaia di Giorgio - The Black Gold Of Modena • Museo Enzo Ferrari - Cars As Art In Modena, Italy • Five Foods That Surprised Me In Italy • Five Foodie Reasons To Visit Modena, Italy • Modena, Italy And The Most Expensive Balsamic Vinegar I’ve Ever Tasted • Hiking And Biking The Hills Of The Apennine Mountains • Traditional Balsamic Vinegar, 150 Years In The Making • Racing A Ferrari Around The Track At Auto Dromo di Modena, Italy (Video) • Biking The Maranello Hills, A Devine Alternative To Tuscany • Modena Cathedral: A Detail Of The Romanesque Facade • Mercato Coperto di Via Albinelli, Modena
• Visitando o Museo Casa Enzo Ferrari em Modena na Itália • Museu da Ferrari em Maranello na Itália • Descobrir a Historia Do Brasil Viajando Pra Fora • Emilia Romagna: A Terra Dos Apaixonados Pr Carros • Pedroni e Osteria di Rubbiara - o Autêntico Aceto Balsamico de Modena
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• Modène - Flânerie et Vinaigre Balsamique
• Módena – La Dulzura Del Vinagre Balsámico Tradicional • Arte Urbano En Modena
•【 意 大 利 】 多 彩 小 城 乐 趣 多 。
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Bologna pasta
a
porticos
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bologna at a glance A treasure-trove of monuments to its rich cultural heritage, Bologna is one of Italy’s best kept secrets. Along the city’s famous proticoed streets lies a venerable collection of medieval palaces, Renaissance churches, popular squares--such as Piazza Maggiore and Piazza del Nettuno—a skyline marked by the campanile of Santo Stefano, and the Asinelli and Garisenda towers, which are two of the city’s few remaining towers that were constructed by Bologna’s important families in the 12th century. The city is home to Europe’s first university, which lends a youthful jubilance and an array of hip eateries and cafes to Bologna’s charm. Additionally, Bologna houses one of Northern Italy’s most important art collections at Pinacoteca Nazionale. Other highlights include the 14th century San Petronio, a church near Palazzo Archiginnasio that’s considered to be among Italy’s greatest medieval brick buildings, and Museo delle Cere Anatomiche, where waxworks and models of organs and limbs blend science and art.
don’t miss: 1. the Porticos of bologna
2. Tagliatelle al Ragù Bolognese
Photo by TheTravelBite.com
Photo by aviatorsandacamera.com
3. ducati motorcycles
4. Lamborghini
Photo by news.motorbiker.org
Photo by getpalmd.com
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Getting there: by car: From Milian take the Motorway A1 direction to Bologna. From Florence, Rome and Naples take the Motorway A1 direction to Milan. From Padua take the Motorway A13 direction to Bologna. From Rimini and Ancona take the Motorway A14 direction to Bologna. For more information, visit the Motorway website: www.autostrade.it.
by train: High-speed train connections from Italy’s major cities (Turin, Milan, Venice, Florence, Rome and Naples) arrive every 30 minutes. To see trains schedules and connections to all of the railway stations in the region as well as other Italian destinations, visit the Italian railway website, www.trenitalia.it, and the Italo train website, www.italotreno.it.
by plane: Flights arrive and depart regularly from the Bologna Airport. For more information, visit www.bologna-airport.it.
Piacenza
Parma
Ferrara
Reggio Emilia Modena
Ravenna
Bologna Faenza ForlĂŹ
Cesena
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Rimini
La Vita è Bella a Bologna
by kirsten alana aviatorsandacamera.com
S
unlight filters through achromatic curtains that blow ever so slightly in a breeze all but undetectable save for the movement of the fabric. It’s warm and I think that is why I’ve woken up but it’s not too warm. And I’m not freezing like I was back in England, wrapped in no less than four layers at a time.
bubble and it’s a good lesson for me, a chance to actually savor a place and not check it off an itinerary handed to me by a client. I think for a fleeting moment how I could get used to being on vacation and then I realize I’ve
never
excelled
at stillness. It’s yet another part of me that I hope will grow and change for the better
Danté stirs beside me and the smile that lights up his face almost makes me cry. He is happier here than I have seen him since Paris. Still himself, yet different.
in this new season of my life; being in love. We’re in an apartment in Bologna, in an older part of the city not far from
the
university
area.
I hear movement in the common area outside our door and I want to know what time it is but instead I enjoy laying beside my love, while being in Italy. I don’t know how many times in my lifetime I will have the chance to do so. Eventually we both get up and face the day, not dawdling because we don’t want to face the day but due to the fact that we’re on what feels like vacation, even though I will have to write about our experience later. For Danté’s sake I never want to rush him in a way that would spoil the
It’s perhaps the heart of what is the Emilia Romagna
region
of
a country I’ve been to several times and still don’t fully understand. Every time I return I find myself loving it more though, and for that reason more than any other I had to bring Danté. It’s also his first extended visit in the country that he owes so much of his heritage to, his name, the recipes and techniques his father taught him in the kitchen, maybe even his handsome face I am falling for more every day….
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We develop a routine. Because I am still dealing with health issues that began in England, we don’t do anything that could really make me more sick than I am. I don’t eat as much gelato or pasta as I’d like to and I only take sips of his wine even though I’d like to have a large glass all to myself at every meal. Instead, we wander. Out the door of our second floor apartment we slip, locking the door with the strangest key I’ve ever held, and moving from the luminous light of our temporary home into the strange gloom of our stairway down to the heavy front door that spits us into an intersection where our preferred coffee shop awaits us. I’ve decided Kamit Express is my favorite coffee shop I have ever been to as we sit and drink a cappuccino that needs no sugar. This has never happened to me, this void of a need for sweetener. I smile, and Danté is smiling too. Out that door too we slip, after we’ve finished our simple breakfast and exchanged pleasantries with Alessia in our limited Italian. Her smile is a wonderful accompaniment to our morning routine.
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Off we go to explore the historic streets, narrow alleys and porticos of Bologna as we have been doing every day. It’s not exotic, adventurous in a way they make movies
exciting. Instead, it is the
“Our wandering together is better than any wandering I have done alone, hand in hand, slow and purposeful without purpose.”
about or even terribly
best form of bonding I’ve ever known. Our wandering together is better than any wandering
have
done
alone, hand in hand, slow and
purposeful
purpose.
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I
without
We slowly climb the 498 stairs to the top of Bologna’s tallest tower. The magnificent view from the top causes us both to take our longest pause thus far and we each steal photos of the other in the sunlight. Only when we’re midway down, after taking in the view, does Danté decide
he wants to make a movie of our experience. Like an expert director, instead of a rookie, he guides me to walk down stairs, to mug for the camera, to exit from the tower triumphant. He sometimes exhibits a brow furrowed in frustration and yet his eyes sparkle with joy.
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We already have a favorite gelato place and it is right near the tower, so we indulge in my favorite Italian dessert and the cool sweetness of the velvety treat seems to cause the words to just slip out of my mouth, “I could live here.” Danté laughs audibly but doesn’t disagree, and I smile. Down the side of a broad avenue, under another one of Bologna’s seemingly endless porticos we stroll, arm in arm until an outfit in the window of a boutique catches my eye and window shopping we go, on the interior side of the glass!
Eventually, I will buy a gauzy scarf and a blue bikini with delicate lace. Danté will find a pair of shoes to fall in love with, which the store doesn’t have in his size. (And I will google them endlessly back in the USA, to see if I can procure them from across the ocean for a Birthday or Christmas surprise.)
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Sometimes we return to the apartment in time to prepare a communal dinner with our housemates Dave, Deb and Christina. On those nights, I look about the room and feel thankful to be surrounded by good people in a city I appreciate in a country I have deep affection for. In those moments, I suspect I might drown in blessing.
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Once we stop for supper in a cafe and though it’s a simple meal, I will always remember it. We each order risotto and it prompts a discussion about cooking at home in New York. (As it happens, Danté has a talent for cooking risotto.) A vase of orange flowers seems to insulate us
from those who pass by on the street. I notice a pattern eventually emerging, during our days of exploration; we’re both drawn to photographing the architecture, the churches and the crumbling facades of Bologna’s oldest sections.
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One day we very accidentally discover an ancient cloisters behind a church we pass every day on the way home, because I notice a salmon wall with an
aquamarine
just
outside
Volkswagen a
doorway
we’ve never taken notice of. I think it is when we are wandering
those
halls
we
say,
instead
both
that of
separately, at the same time:
“I could live in Bologna and just explore every day.”
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Danté stirs beside me in the dusk of a late night and I hold him a little tighter as he says, “I don’t want to think about going home.” My last thought before I surrender to sleep is...
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La Vita è Bella a Bologna. [life is beautiful in Bologna.≠]
48 Hours in bologna with €200
by Kash Bhattacharya budgettraveller.org
I
like cities in which I can lose myself in.
selling the finest cured meats known to mankind— prosciutto de parma, mortadella and culatello di zibello; my tummy rumbles.
I turn left. Then I turn right. I get lost. It’s a game I play when visiting many cities and I’m
winning this time. At every turn there is a revelation - a nice café where the
It is 8 a.m. and I am already hungry. But that’s okay, because in Bologna, you can come here just to eat..
locals are gathered and not a tourist in sight.
Welcome to my 48 Hours in Bologna.
At the next turn I am greeted by a beautiful historic
‘La Grassa’…the ‘fat one.’
church and angels sigh at me from heaven above. I then find myself in a beautiful empty square full of cooing pigeons.
Ease a few notches on the belt. Plus bring good walking shoes please. Not only to save money but your waistline too.
Plus the odd person having a nice old snooze on the chairs that are a permanent fixture at this time of the year thanks to the Sotto le Stelle del Cinema. Then on the next turn it’s chaos. Traders are cackling away, setting
up
market
stalls,
which contain some of the ripest, reddest tomatoes I have ever seen. Crates of fish freshly caught from the Adriatic coast just a hundred miles away, sparkle like silver beads on the ice. I walk by speciality shops
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Day 1 - 9:30 A.M. Caffe Terzi
I like to start a good holiday with a good cup of coffee.
Cost €1.50
For the best cup of coffee in Bologna, try Caffè Terzi
Note: There is a cover charge of €2 for sitting down, so
(via Oberdan 10/D; 39-051-236-470; caffeterzi.it) where
you’ll be better off drinking at the counter.
owner Manuel Terzi concocts the perfect cappuccino con
After your coffee ditch the map. Like any classic Italian
cioccolatto with shavings of dark chocolate into a lovely not too frothy cappuccino that really is the stuff of dreams.
city, the whole joy of a visit to Bologna is getting lost and losing track of time and space.
10:30 A.M. via emilia and the due torri Sooner or later you will find yourself on Via Emilia which is an excellent reference point to any adventure in Bologna. At 2,200-years-old, this original roman road connects Rimini with Piacenza. A grand boulevard, flanked by historic colonades and a string of designerwear shops, at its crown lies the spectacular 318 feet tall Torre degli Asinelli, the symbol of Bologna and the perfect point to start your adventure. When you look at these awe inspiring towers, remember these twin towers were kinda like the Manhattan of their age. They marked the gateway to the city. The towers were symbols of prestige to their owners. The higher the tower, the more prestigious the family was. To the point where they started groaning under the weight of gravity and started leaning. At one point they were 100 of these towers, so you can imagine how breathtaking the city skyline must have been. Now only 20 of these towers exist. It’s a 498 step climb to the top of Torre degli Asinelli, but once you’ve made it to the top, you are rewarded with stunning views of Bologna and the surrounding countryside. Cost €3
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12 p.m. Gelato #1 at Gianni The perfect way to reward your epic climb is by having
nocciola, crema, chocolate, coconut or, if you’re looking
a gelato at Gianni. For me personally, it’s not the best
for something light and fresh, strawberry and lemon
gelato in the city but still is pretty epic compared to the
sorbet.
gelato I’ve tasted elsewhere in the world. You can choose from flavours like ricotta, mascarpone , cocoa, pistachio,
Cost: For as little as €2 you get your choice of two scoops.
12:30 P.m. Museum of History of Bologna My next stop is just a few minutes walk to the brand
Top Tip: Make use of the excellent free English Audio
new Museum of the History of Bologna housed in the
Guide which guides you through the museum. The
beautiful Palazzo Pepoli. The museum condenses the
museum also has a very nice café that does a decent lunch
city’s rich history into just a few hours, enabling visitors to retrace Bologna’s amazing historical, cultural, artistic
menu plus offers free wifi. Cost: €5
and scientific heritage.
2 p.m. EATALY I love a place that is filled with books and smells of great coffee. When you add the smell of delicious Italian food to that equation, you have quite an unbeatable combo. Unwittingly, I walked into Eataly, a chain of Italian gourmet restaurants that lies in the midst of the chaos of Mercato di Mezzo. They have an excellent wine bar and restaurant upstairs, but if you’re looking for a quick but tasty bite, pop into the deli downstairs. I grabbed a delicious sandwich with potatoes, pesto and beans dressed with some olive oil. Simple but so damn tasty, it’s like tasting Italy in one bite. Cost: €2.80
3 p.m. Palazzo Archiginnasio My next stop is probably one of the most important historic buildings in Bologna—the Archiginnasio, home once upon a time to the oldest university of Western Europe (1088)—the University of Bologna, which today functions as a library.
to allow dissection of the human body. It’s quite morbid and fascinating at the same time to sit on the benches of the theatre, gazing up at the skinless humans of Enrico Lelli overlooking the dissecting table.
The main draw of Archiginnasio, though, is its Teatro Anatomico. Dating from 1637, this was the first university
Cost: €2.80
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4:30 p.m. Passeggiatta, Via Indipendenza Shops remain closed in Bologna from 1 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. As the sun sinks and shadows lengthen, twist your way back to the “high street of Bologna—Via Indipendenza —where you can indulge in a spot of window shopping, admiring the mix of local and international fashion brands. Suddenly, the street starts filling up with elegantly dressed locals and you’re an active member of the famous Italian tradition of the passeggiata. People sip coffee under the arcades, watching the flow of humanity. Day or night, walking under the beautiful arcades of this street is one of my enduring memories of Bolgona. Top Tip: On Saturdays, the historic square is closed to any form of traffic, making it perfect for pedestrians.
5:30 p.m. Osteria del Sole Perfect time for another pit stop. Duck into the maze
life. You can bring your own food here and have
of streets of the market and locate Vicolo Ranocchi
an inexpensive picnic with some gourmet treats
13, where you will find the locals spilling out into the
from the Quadrilatero. Wine by the glass—red or
street from the cities oldest wine bar, Osteria del Sole,
white—is just €2. Last time I came here, I had an excellent
which has been serving thirsty locals since 1465. The best thing about this place is its unprententious, relaxed vibe with a great mix of people from all walks of
Pignoletto. Have a few glasses as the day melts into night. Cost: Two glasses of Pignoletto: €4
6:30 P.m. Aperitivo at Lab Sedici In the evening, Via Zamboni—just a stone’s throw from
Dortmund for €6 and helped myself to the buffet. Magic.
the Due Torri—is choked with students indulging in the tradition of apertivo, an evening drink or cocktail that in many places is accompanied by a buffet. The tradition of aperitivo has its roots in Northern Italy, so it is something I would definitely recommend you try on your trip to the region. For the cost of a drink, you are allowed to enjoy a plate of food from the buffet. While it’s not meant to be a substitute for dinner, I have often been guilty of having the extra plate and overindulging myself. In Bologna, Lab Sedici is one of the best haunts for a traditional aperitivo. They offer an excellent range of beers and cocktails. I enjoyed a glass of DAB-
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9:30 p.m. Sotto le Stelle del Cinema – One magical night of forty in Piazza Maggiore
If like me, you love movies, the best time to visit Bologna
piazza at night as thousands of people sit in pin drop silence
is from the end of June till the end of July when the annual
and stars sparkle above your head. At this year’s festival,
open air film festival, Sotto le Stelle del Cinema, is held in Piazza Maggiore. It’s free for locals and tourists.
they showed some classic movies of Jack Nicholson, Jerry Lewis, as well as some of great protagonists of
It kicks off at 10 p.m., so I grabbed a seat around 9:30
the cinema who were both directors and actors, like
p.m. I brought my own bottle of wine to drink along
Charles Chaplin, Orson Welles and Vittorio De Sica. This
with some snacks I had picked up earlier from the
was the perfect ending to a great first day in Bologna.
market. It’s quite an indescribable, intoxicating feeling to watch a movie on the big screen in the middle of a historic
Cost: Free
day 2 - 6:30 A.M. pilgrimage to Santuario della Madonna di San Luca The second day is an early start and kicks off with a unique pilgrimage. Bologna is the city of porticos and walking under these historic colonnades is one of the highlights of any trip to the city. The perfect way to admire these iconic porticos, and also walk off the excesses of the day before, is to undertake the unique journey of travelling under 666 arches (the longest arcaded walk in the world) to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Santuario della Madonna di San Luca (Via di San Luca 36), a beautiful basilica that lies outside the city perched
on a hill. The walk to San Luca begins at the arches at Meloncello. It’s quite the hike, but also quite the spiritual experience too. Once you reach the basilica, you are rewarded with a beautiful view of the green, gentle rolling hills of Emilia Romagna. It’s a perfect way to start a day in Bologna. Hours: April thru September: 7am-12.30pm & 2.307pm; October thru February: 7am-12.30pm & 2.30-5pm; March: 7am-12.30pm & 2.30-6pm; Cost: Free
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9:30 A.M. Breakfast with a view at Caffe delle Sette Chiese The best way to relax after the long walk is to have breakfast at one of the most scenic points in Bologna, and watch the sun rise over the city. Devoid of the crowds, the Piazza Santo Stefano is one of my favourite piazzas in Italy. With the beautiful church of Santo Stefano in the foreground, the piazza is flanked by the beautiful colonnades. I settle down to a breakfast of a fresh orange juice and the crispiest, freshest salted croissant I’ve ever tasted. Cost: €4.50
11 A.M. Teatro Comunale Once I’m back in the city I decide to checkout the Teatro Communale. Note that the theatre is NOT open for public viewings during the day. However, if you politely ask the security personnel via the side entrance to the teatro, they may let you in a for a quick viewing. If you never ask, you never know, right? It’s worth the short visit. The beautiful lights of the 250-year-old Teatro di Comunale Bologna glimmer in the dark. I feel a tingle down my spine just admiring the theatre, which is empty but still regal. This is the oldest publicly owned opera house in the world and the second oldest opera house in Italy after Naples San Carlo. Situated in the centre of the University District, you can catch everything from Verdi to Wagner or classical music performances for as little as €10. Check www.tcbo.it for details of upcoming performances.
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11:30 a.m. Walk down Via Zamboni
As I noted before, the real charm of Bologna does not lie in a museum, but in the simple act of walking under the rows of porticos and just observing the flow of everyday life. One of the most captivating streets to catch the flow of life in this city is Via Zamboni, which, besides being home to the Teatro Comunale, is also home to the University of Bologna. Be curious. Be bold. I spent some time walking into each of these century old buildings and spending time reading the student noticeboards, especially the room vacancy notices. â‚Ź200 a month with bills? Almost makes me want to become a student again and live in Bologna. My curiousity was rewarded when I walked into the Faculty of Jurisprudence to discover this beautiful open courtyard filled with students sitting around. Many of them studying their notes (final exams) and some were just chatting away. Brought back memories of my university days in Scotland.
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1 P.M. Lunch at Marsalino Tucked away in a quiet corner of Via Marsala (just a few minutes walk from Via Zamboni) with a few tables outside, Marsalino (Via Marsala 13) is a vibrant, very pleasant restaurant. The menu offers a few but excellent choices. All the food is locally sourced following the zero-kilometre principle. Mains for lunch range from €6-€7 euros. I enjoyed an excellent rigatoni with zucchini and shrimp. For dessert, I went for their excellent homemade chocolate cake (€3.50). The wait staff are happy, friendly people, and there is an excellent wine list too. Cost: €10.50
2:30 p.m. Camera a Sud To stop from slipping into a post lunch pasta coma, I recommend checking out one of Bologna’s excellent coffeehouses, and Camera a Sud is one of the best.
interesting place where you could be happily stuck for
Walking into this cafe is like being ushered into a writers living room—books piled up from floor to ceiling, Miles Davis playing in the background, beautiful photographs of a chinese tea plantation, interesting quotes everywhere, and wine crates doubling up as book shelves. It’s an
just €0.90) and the free wifi excellent. Little secret places
hours. The wine list is great, their coffee is some of the best in town (cheap too, the cortado I was drinking was like this hidden away from the view of the world are what make Bologna such a charming place. Cost: €.90
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4 p.m. Hidden canals of Bologna- Via Piella If you think of canals in Italy, you probably think of Venice. Many people would not think of Bologna as a city with canals. However, hidden from public view, an underground network of canals exists in Bologna. Only a few exist currently, the majority have been paved over by public car parks. For example, Riva di Reno— one of the city’s major waterways, which once traversed through half of the city—now runs beneath the streets; what a shame. If you visit Via Piella, you’ll find a small window hidden in the wall that opens up onto the Moline canal.
were the most advanced waterway system in Europe. Bologna was then the fifth largest city in Europe (after Cordova, Paris, Venice, and Florence) with over 60,000 inhabitants. The city tied with Milan as the largest textile industry area in Italy. These canals helped run the numerous textile mills and transport goods. Bologna’s rich history of textiles is still evident from their street names: Via delle Moline (mill), Via dei Tessitori (Weavers) and Via Drapperie (drapery). A tip of the hat to Kathryn Burrington for her excellent post about the hidden canals of Bologna, which inspired me and I recommend That you check them out as well.
Back in the 13th century these canals
5:30 p.m. La Sorbetteria Castiglione Time for another gelato. The best place for gelato in the city in my humble view is La Sorbetteria Castiglione (44 Via Castiglione, www.lasorbetteria.it), a classic gelato shop where there is always a busy hive of locals tucking into some of their mouth-watering flavors, which include cremino ludovico, hazelnut and cocoa butter, dolce contagio with pine nuts and carmelized walnuts and dolce emma with ricotta and figs carmelized with honey. Amazing stuff. I dream about going back here every day. Please enjoy on my behalf. Cost: €2
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6:30 p.m. Salotto del Jazz My next stop is Via Mascarella, where I am about to
Cost: €3 for a glass of wine at Cantina Bentivoglio, which
discover another amazing secret of the city, a great
hosts the best Jazz nights in Bologna. They offer an excellent
summer event in Bologna called Salotto del jazz. If you’re
daily fixed price menu for €28 that is worth checking out.
visiting from June to August, you can dine and drink while listening to live jazz sitting on the street of Via Mascarella. The upper area is specifically closed to traffic
Top Tip: Pop by for the evening feast at Mercato Delle Erbe. During the summer on Via Belvedere, you can feast
for this period of time. Even if you don’t fancy jazz, there’s
every Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday. Locals enjoy
something so cool about eating or having a drink on a
meals prepared from unsold produce at the Mercato Delle
street, surrounded by beautiful buildings in a communal
Erbe. It’s an excellent atmosphere and the food is great
setting on a beautiful summers evening while sipping on
too. You can buy a bottle of wine for a few euros and have
good wine, like Pignoletto maybe; this is one of life’s great
a great meal surrounded by locals. I highly recommend it
experiences.
if you’re in town on any of those days.
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7:30 p.m. Aperitivo at Le Stanze Another very decent aperitivo option in Bologna is Le Stanze. A former 16th-century private chapel of the Palazzo Bentivoglio, one of the highlights of a visit here is the high ceiling, which is adorned with beautiful pastel frescoes. Aperitivos and plates of pasta, grilled vegetables, bite-sized pizzette and cheeses are all hallmarks of Le Stanze. Cost: €7 which includes any drink or cocktail.
9 p.m. Pizza Casa I’m still hungry and when walking out of Le Stanze, I smell pizza. Pizza Casa (Via delle Belle Arti 6)is a simple pizzeria that does great pizza, which is freshly baked in their huge oven and it’s just up the road a few hundred yards from Le Stanze. It’s popular with students and locals. Pizzas are very competitively priced with a margharita pizza costing just €2.50. You can create your own, which I did. My pizza (I called it ‘Kashizza) consisted of tomato, garlic, potatoes and a topping of rocket leaves. Delicious. Pizza and potatoes is a Michelin star winning combo. Cost: €3.50
10:30 p.m. clubbing at Kinki If you’re in the mood for clubbing, the club scene in Bologna is not the most vibrant for what you would expect in a student city. There are a lot of Irish bars, which are popular with the students and tourists, hence you can expect overpriced drinks. However, there are cool clubs like Kinki, which has been an icon of the local club scene since 1950. I was curious to check out the place with a few friends and I wasn’t disappointed. Free entry, good music, and drinks and cocktails were around the €5-€7 mark. The crowd was a mixed bunch, but overall I had a decent night. Cost: €13 for one beer and an Aperol Spritz.
12:30 a.m. Piazza verdi The perfect place to end 48 Hours in Bologna is in the lively Piazza Verdi, where the students congregate at night to chat and drink into the late hours. It felt like I had stumbled into some huge street party. Nothing beats summer nights with people on the streets and drinking cheap good wine. The latter is no problem. For €3–€5, you can get a very nice bottle of Sangiovese in Bologna. Cost: €5
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where to stay in bologna Lodging will be one of your biggest expenses; however there are a few decently priced budget options in Bologna. There is also a hostel that is 6 km out of the centre; though, in my opinon that pretty much ruins the fun of experiencing this city. Albergo Centrale (Via della Zecca 2 ) is just a few minutes walk from Piazza Maggiore and is an excellent priced
budget option with a good location, cracking buffet breakfast, nice interior decor, and clean and comfortable bedrooms. Through Booking.com you can get two nights in an economy double room with breakfast for the rate of €69 per night. With two people, it works out to be €35 per person, which is a great deal in my opinion.
How to get there and away Bologna has excellently priced and convenient rail connections to all the key cities in the north. You can reach Florence in an hour and half and pay around €11.50 for a one-way ticket. Rome is 3½ hours and a one-way ticket costs about €34. The Guglielmo Marconi airport is just 6 kms northwest of the city. Aerobus-BLQ is the express shuttle bus service connecting
Bologna Marconi Airport to the Bologna Central Railway Station. There are regular services with the first bus from the airport leaving at 05:30 and the last bus at 00:15. Travel time is 20 minutes. For more information about schedules see TPER. Tickets currently cost €6 for one way. A taxi costs around €15 so if you are travelling in a group, you might be better to take a cab. Taxi rank is just outside the arrivals entrance.
Total cost of 48 Hours in Bologna • Caffé Terzi €1.50
• Lunch Marsalino €10.50
• Climbing Due Torri €3
• Coffee, Camera a Sud €0.90
• Gelato No 1-Gianni €2
• Glass of wine at Cantina Bentivoglio €3
• Museum of History of Bologna €5
• Gelato, La Sorbetteria Castiglione €2
• Pesto potato beans sandwich at Eataly €2.80
• Aperitivo at Le Stanze €7
• Palazzo Archiginnasio €Free
• Pizza Casa €3.50
• Wine at Osteria del Sole €4
• Clubbing at Kinki €13
• Aperitivo at Lab Sedici €6
• Bottle of Sangiovese, Piazza Verdi €5
• Santuario della Madonna di San Luca €Free
• 2 nights in Albergo Centrale €138
• Breakfast with a view Caffe delle Sette Chiese €4 .50
• Return, Airport Bus €12
Total €219.20 / £187 / ¢300
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How to cook tagliatelle al ragú by Bethany Salvon & Randy Kalp Beersandbeans.com
T
he Hungarians call it bolognai spagetti, the British refer to it as spag bol, and in the United States, we say spaghetti Bolognese. This simple plate of spaghetti and meat sauce has gained worldwide popularity, except in Italy where there is no such thing, in part because Bolognese ragù is customarily served with fresh tagliatelle, a flat porous noodle from the Emilia Romagna region of Italy that is ideal for thick sauces.
up into the pasta,” Chef Ivan Poletti says. “But just 30
It’s no secret that spaghetti Bolognese is loved the world over. In fact, a 2009 BBC survey revealed that 65% of Britons said they can make the recipe by heart. I can only imagine that the number would be about the same for the United States, where spaghetti doused with meat sauce rivals beer in popularity at colleges. However, true Bolognese ragù is meatier than its tomatolaced imposters and always contains a combination of finely chopped carrots, celery and onion. So then how did the beloved Italian dish of Tagliatelle al Ragù get so butchered by the world?
sauce with diners at Cantina
To understand, one may only have to look at how recipes can change from one town to the next in Emilia Romagna. “In Modena, where I grew up, the mortadella filling that is stuffed into tortellini is pre-cooked before being folded
kilometers away in Bologna and Ferrara, the filling is fresh when it is wrapped up.” Now, just think about how much change can occur in 4,000 miles. Boloney anyone? Bolognese ragù is in Poletti’s DNA—he grew up eating his grandmother’s sauce, which she cooked every Sunday over a wood fire for Tagliatelle al Ragù. Poletti now shares his version of his family’s Bentivoglio
in
Bologna,
an acclaimed jazz club and restaurant in the city’s Old Town district. With the help of our good friend Nicholas Montemaggi of Emilia Romagna Tourism, we were able to get Poletti’s recipe for Bolognese ragù for our story on Men’s Health: Cook Real Bolognese Ragù. However, we also wanted to share the recipe here along with Poletti’s recipe for homemade tagliatelle, so you can try the traditional Bolognese dish for yourself. I made the sauce a few weeks back for Beth’s family and everyone really enjoyed it. Because I didn’t have the time to make fresh tagliatelle, I substituted in fettuccine, which worked pretty well. The biggest thing to remember is that the sauce needs to simmer over low heat for at least three hours.
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Traditional Bolognese Ragù recipe by chef ivan poletti of cantina bentivoglio.
What you’ll need (serves 6): •
1/2 cup, plus 2 Tbsp of olive oil
•
1/2 cup diced celery
•
1/2 cup diced carrots
•
1/2 cup diced onions
•
10.5 ounces lean beef, minced
•
1/2 cup minced parma ham
•
1/3 cup minced bacon
•
Pinch of salt and pepper
•
1 cup of red wine
•
3 Tbsp of tomato sauce
•
1 Tbsp of tomato paste
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How to make it: 1. In a large pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the celery, onions, and carrots and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables turn a golden color, about 5 minutes. 2. Add the beef, ham, bacon, salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until the beef caramelizes, about 6 minutes. 3. Gradually add the wine, stirring continuously, allowing it to evaporate as you mix it in. Next, add the tomato sauce, tomato paste, and just enough water to cover the meat. Stir to combine. Bring the sauce to a boil and then lower the heat to low. Simmer the sauce, stirring occasionally, until the flavors meld and deepen, about 3 hours. 4. To prepare the pasta, transfer ragu to a large sautĂŠ pan on medium-high heat. Transfer the cooked and drained pasta to the sautĂŠ pan and mix quickly with a fork, being careful not to break any of the pasta. When well mixed, immediately transfer the portions to plates and top with a generous amount of freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Makes 6 servings.
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Rolling-pin homemade sheet of pasta recipe by chef ivan poletti of cantina bentivoglio. What you’ll need (serves 6): • 3 ¾ cups 00 flour • 6 eggs
How to make it: 1. Place the flour in the center of a cutting board so that it looks like a volcano with a crater. 2. Break the eggs into the middle of the flour crater. Mix it first with a fork and then by hand, working the dough to obtain a mixture that is not too elastic or too hard. 3. Shape the dough like a ball and cover it with a moist cotton tea-towel. Leave the mixture rest for about one hour. 4. On the cutting board, roll out the pasta, turning and flattening so you obtain a semicircular shape about 1/3 inch thick. If necessary alter the humidity (and therefore the elasticity) of the sheet of pasta with a bit of flour. You can also roll the pasta in sheets with a pasta machine.
Preparing the tagliatelle: 1. Cut the flattened pasta into strips about 19½ inches wide and roll each strip in, sprinkling it a small amount of flour so that you have a tube 2 ¾ to 3 ¼ inches wide. 2. Cut each tube into strips of pasta about .6 centimeters wide. Place these on the cutting board and then wrap 8 to 10 into a form resembling a “nest”. Each one of these is a serving. 3. You can cook the tagliatelle immediately or keep them for a future occasion by drying the nests on a tray covered with a light paper towel on your counter top. The pasta can then be kept for a few days.. 4. Cook the tagliatelle in an abundant amount of boiling salted water until it’s al dente and rises to the surface, about 2 to 3 minutes. As the pasta is cooking, stir it once or twice to keep it from sticking together. Makes 6 servings.
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know before you go Cantina Bentivoglio is located at Via Mascarella 4/b in Bologna, Italy 40126. You can visit them online at http://www.cantinabentivoglio.it/ita/home.php or call them at +39 051 265416. fun facts 1. Wine has always been hallmark of Cantina Bentivoglio—60 years ago the restaurant was a wine warehouse and tavern. Its cellar now features a magnificent collection of Italian wines as well as top selections from France, California, Australia and New Zealand vineyards. 2. In 1989, the restaurant’s jazz club opened in the 16th century wine cellars of Palazzo Bentivoglio. 3. Cappelletti and Poletti both agree that nobody makes Bolognese ragù quite like their grandmothers. 4. Wynton Marsalis’ performance at Cantina Bentivoglio tops Cappelletti’s list of favorite shows at the jazz club.
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A revisit of the ducati museum
by Mike Werner news.motorbiker.org
A
couple of years ago I visited the Ducati Factory and Museum (click here to read all about it), but now I was part of the Visit San Marino and the
in the staff car park, that now almost 90% of the staff cars
Emilia Romagna Tourist Board event, bringing people
Since we are not allowed to take photos inside the factory,
like myself to not only visit this fantastic area of Italy,
here are some photos of the Ducati museum. The only
but also motorcycle events like the MotoGP and a visit to
thing I can say is if you have a chance, go and see the
Ducati. I was the only motorcycle blogger in the group,
museum. But do remember, that you can not just show
but visiting Ducati is never boring, even if you have been
up, you need to make a reservation to see this well laid
several times.
out, well kept and very informative museum.
The first thing I noticed when we arrived at the Ducati
The museum starts with the very origins of Ducati, that
factory, apart from the obvious many Ducati motorcycles
of making radios. That is what started Ducati.
Above: The Ducati radio from the beginning of time.
were Audi. I wondered why?
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After World War II, Ducati jumped in the breach of people needing cheap and efficient transportation by placing a 50cc engine and gas tank on existing bicycle frames.
Ducati never looked back after that. Ignoring all the other things they were making at the time, Ducati concentrated on making beautiful and very fast motorcycles.
Above: the famous Ducati Cucciolo motorized bicycle. Below: Most of Ducati’s motorcycles throughout the ages.
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You can see all the winning World SuperBike (WSB) motorcycles in the museum...
...and all the winning MotoGP bikes.
There is also a trophy area where you can see massive amounts of trophies. As I said, if you have a chance, go and visit.
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INSIDE THE LAMBORGHINI FACTORY – MAKING OF AVENTADOR by SARA NÄSE getpalmd.com
F
To get inside the Lamborghini factory and see the assembly line was one of the best automotive experiences I’ve had. It is extremely interesting to be able to see how they are built and how they look in progress. When you walk there you see the different stations and how it comes to life, from engine to exhaust to seats and so on. Inside the selleria, you see how they make the interior and seats, print the Raging Bull on leather, mark the faults in the leather with a white pen to be able to correct them later with a machine… and the people inside the selleria— many of them ladies—seem to do a perfect job. At the other stations, I only saw one woman that day, there are more than one though and it’s awesome to know that a Lamborghini comes with a woman’s touch too.
a name and apparently not, it was a custom order from a client. Lucky him or her! I don’t want to tell you all the information the guide told me, because I wish all of you automotive fans would get a chance to do a factory visit yourself one day. It’s not
Now let’s talk about the blue Aventador. For me, the Aventador is the most beautiful car of the 21st century (and the Honda NSX obviously of the 20th century!). I do love the orange and it looks damn good in verde ithaca, but the dark blue is quite extraordinary too. We asked if the color has
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the same thing to read and look at photos as it is to hear and to actually see it happen, with a very good guide (thank you Lamborghini for that, our guide was wonderful). The day I can afford a Lamborghini...actually, I’m not even going to say that because that’s no longer an option. If you really want something you will do what it takes to get it, right? I always say it is about choices for people who can’t afford everything they want — some want a luxur villa and choose that over cars. I don’t really care about that stuff and would rather buy my dream car instead. I would love to spend my days at the factory to witness the making of my very own car on the assembly line. To get your dream car is already a dream come true, but to get your dream car and actually be able to
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follow how they build it from scratch—the car you are later going to own and drive… I mean that must be the ultimate dream come true, and if you can have that in life I don’t think you need much more. So Lamborghini, that day in the future when I place my order, just know that it comes with this special request!
Visit the Lamborghini Museum & Factory website for more information on its Sant’ Agata Bolognese factory, including opening hours and prices.
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An Afternoon Wandering Through Dozza by Bianca Bauza nomadbiba.com
L
ocated some 20 km away from Bologna, Dozza is a charming little town known as one of Italy’s prettiest villages. When I talked to my hosts
for BlogVille about my interest in street art they suggested a visit to Dozza, as it holds an event every two years where artists come to paint murals on the walls of houses within the historic center.
stop at Castel San Pietro. Fortunately for me, someone realized I was totally lost and explained I had to take the next 101 bus with a sign to Imola, which are the ones that do go through Toscanella. Once I got off the bus, I walked about 3 km up a mild hill to get to the charms of Dozza, which is housed
Getting to Dozza seemed simple enough, I took a quick glance at the map and figured I just had to take the 101
within the walls of an imposing fortress. It was early on a Wednesday afternoon and the streets were empty,
bus from Bologna and get off at Toscanella, so off I
except for a few locals and just a handful of tourists.
went. However, not all the 101 buses pass through
Almost all the bars and shops were closed, giving
Toscanella; I quickly learned that some have their last
the place a very serene atmosphere.
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The Biennale di Muro Dipinto is held in Dozza every two years in September; the next one will take place in 2013. The event has run since 1960 and it brings artists from Italy and abroad to paint beautiful murals on the walls of the historic center, transforming the town into a big open air gallery. It actually started as an effort to put this tiny village “on the map” and attract tourism. It was a bit like the case of Chemainus on Vancouver Island in Canada’s west coast. To this day, it’s possible to admire some of the earliest works that date from the 1960s onwards; they actually restore the murals every few years to help in their conservation. Since the start of this event, Dozza has evolved into the capital of modern frescoes. Over the last couple of years, curator Fabiola Naldi—the Muro Dipinto—has also invited artists from the graffiti domain to take part in the event, which adds to the already interesting mix of styles present in Dozza. If you’re headed to Bologna, you should definitely consider paying this charming little town a visit. Visit the Biennale del Muro Dipinto website for more information (in Italian only). To see more photos of the murals, check out my photo gallery.
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bonkers for bologna? learn more about Emilia Romagna’s Foodie paradise: • Bologna – My Favorite City in Italy • The Culture Behind Italian Gelato • Under The Porticos Of Bologna • Bologna’s Market District In Pictures • Bologna la Rossa — Scenes From A Red City • Gelato in Bologna: From Delicious To Strangely Delicious • The Other Leaning Tower Of Italy • Pasta Non-Basta – My Day At A Pasta Making Class In Bologna • The Best Of Bologna, 10 Must Do’s To Enjoy Your Stay • Bologna, The Perfect Harmony Of Piazza del Nettuno • Four Reasons To Visit Bologna, Italy NOW • Cook Real Bolognese Ragù • Porticos Of Bologna • He Said, She Said: Cooking Lessons In Bologna • Overcoming My Fear Of Heights In Bologna! • Bologna’s Knobs and Knockers • Santo Stefano: The Seven Churches Of Bologna • The Keys To Good Music
• Die Geheimen Kanäle Von Bologna • Italien: Eisprinzessin Für Einen Tag • Bologna Für Genießer: 5 Highlights • Bologna: Von Schiefen Türmen, Einem Geheimen Fenster Und Der Flüsterecke • Fünf Dinge über Bologna • Bologna & Emilia Romagna: Meine Heiße Affäre Mit Italien!
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• Dozza – Murs Peints Et Bons Vins • Bologne, La Savante, La Rouge, La Grasse • Découvrir (enfin) l’Italie • L’Emilie-Romagne, au coeur de l’Italie du Nord
• Nhoque Da Scuola Di Cucina De Bologna • Osteria Dell’Orsa: O Primeiro Ragù Em Bologna • A Antiga E Jovem Bologna – Impossível Não Se Apaixonar! • Itália: Aprendendo A Fazer Massa Fresca com As Mamas Italianas Em Bolonha • Onde Comer (E Se Divertir!) Em Bologna • A Típica Trattoria Da Mamma Em Bolonha Na Itália • Saindo Do Aeroporto De Bologna • As Belezas De Bologna, Na Itália • Bolonha – A Cidade Dos Pórticos • Os Nove Segredos De Bolonha • O Que Fazer Em Bolonha • Universidade Do Gelato Em Bolonha
•【 意 大 利 博 洛 尼 亚 】 5 0 0 级 台 阶 爬 斜 塔 ， 鸟 瞰 红 顶 之 城 。 •博 洛 尼 亚 ， 世 界 拱 廊 之 都 充 满 着 活 力 •【 意 大 利 艺 术 小 镇 】 壁 画 中 的 美 丽 生 活 。 •【 意 大 利 博 洛 尼 亚 】 漫 步 世 界 最 长 的 长 廊 。
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Ferrara
unesco, renaissance a little venice
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ferrara at a glance All the great Italian cities have their fair share of superlative architecture, but Ferrara has the distinction of being the only one with an original town plan that did not evolve from a Roman layout. In fact, Ferrara, which still maintains most its original layout, is the only planned renaissance city in history to have been completed. Set on the River Po, Ferrara and the d’Este family attracted the greats of the Italian Renaissance in the 15th and 16th centuries. Local architect Biagio Rossetti is credited with bringing the concept of the “ideal city” to life in Ferrara beginning in 1492 by implementing the new principles of perspective. Rossetti’s work can also be seen in the Palazzo Schifanoia, which he remodeled in 1493. This d’Este estate is known for its 15th century murals by Cosmè Tura and other Ferrarese painters that adorn the Salon de Mesi and showcase the city’s humanist spirit.
don’t miss: 1. Palazzo Diamanti
2. Cathedral
Photo by Emilia Romagna Tourism
Photo by VelvetEscape.com
3. Castello Estense
4. Comacchio
Photo by GloboTreks.com
Photo by ThePlanetD.com
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Getting there: by car: From Bologna take the Motorway A13 direction to Padua. From Padua take the Motorway A13 direction to Bologna. For more info visit the Motorway website: www.autostrade.it.
by train: Regional train connections from Bologna, Venice and Ravenna occur every hour. To see train schedules and connections to all of the railway stations in the region as well as other Italian destinations, visit the Italian Railway website: www.trenitalia.it.
by plane: Flights arrive and depart regularly at the Bologna airport, where shuttlebuses depart for Ferrara. For more information, visit www.bologna-airport.it and www.ferrarabusandfly.com.
Piacenza
Parma
Ferrara
Reggio Emilia Modena
Ravenna
Bologna Faenza ForlĂŹ
Cesena
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Rimini
A Walk Through Ferrara, Italy
by ali garland aliadventures.com
While we were planning out our week in Emilia Romagna, Andy mentioned how much he liked the town of Ferrara , which isn’t far from Bologna. I didn’t really know anything about the town, but he told me there was a castle with a moat. Sold. So we scheduled in a day to take the train to Ferrara, check out the castle and just wander around. It was certainly a photogenic place, and not too crowded even though it was June.
to explore. It’s set up like a museum with lots of signs detailing the history of the castle and the area. I didn’t like it quite as much as Castle Gravensteen in Ghent, because it was a little too museum like. But if you’re a big history buff, you’d be in heaven here. I did enjoy the model of the castle and all the passageways that helped me imagine what it was like hundreds of years ago.
Ferrara’s Castello Estense After grabbing some pizza for a quick lunch, Andy and I walked over to the castle, called Castello Estense. As he promised, it did have a moat, which I love in a castle. As we paused on the bridge, we noticed lots of big fish swimming around in the water. A castle with a moat AND fish. Love it. Eventually, we left the fish alone and went into the castle
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Scenes from the streets of Ferrara Without much else in mind, we simply walked through the town and enjoyed the atmosphere. Ferrara felt like a relaxing place, a city to sit (or walk) and enjoy, not
necessarily
run
around
looking for things to do. From the group of old men standing on the edge of a square having a long chat, to the people taking a leisurely bike ride through the streets, Ferrara was a laid back town. I’ll be honest, I wasn’t in the best of moods this day. I was exhausted from doing too many things. And even though my days spent learning to cook pasta and making sorbet and gelato were both lots of fun, I needed a break. It was nice to be somewhere as laid back as Ferrara, where we could wander or sit and people watch. Though one day wasn’t enough to completely recharge my batteries, it certainly helped.
know before you go: Ferrara is easily reached by train from Bologna. The train takes anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour depending on which one you take. We bought our train tickets the same day and paid 4.40€ per person each way. There are signs outside the Ferrara train station pointing you towards the historic center, and it’s an easy, mostly straight walk. Tickets to get into the castle are 6€ per person. Opening hours are daily from 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., except for June 1 through August 31, when they are open from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. The ticket office closes 45 minutes before closing time. See the Castello Estense website for more information.
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Meet Fabio Lamborghini, It’s all in the Family by dave bouskill & debra corbeil theplanetd.com
We had our share of car experiences while visiting Emilia Romagna. After all it isn’t called the Land of Motors for nothing. This region of Italy is where Ducati, Ferrari and Lamborghini all originated. We had many car encounters, including the chance to drive a Ferrari around a race track, but today we’re going to talk about Lamborghini. During our time in Bologna, we saw 300 classic Lamborghinis crowd the Piazza Maggiore for the 50th anniversary of the company and we went on a tour of the main Lamborghini museum in a tiny town between Bologna and Modena.
Lamborghini Family Museum All these auto encounters were amazing, but nothing compared to our private tour of the Lamborghini family museum in Dosso. It is here where you get an intimate tour of Ferruccio Lamborghini’s life and legacy on a private tour with his nephew Fabio. I wasn’t expecting this! We walked in the front door and Fabio instantly took command as only a man of his stature could. Travel bloggers, immediately started snapping photos and
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rushing around, but before we knew it Fabio took charge and said, “It is best if you take photos after I finish speaking.” And so we listened. We watched, we followed and we hung on his every word.
Let’s Talk Tractors I must say, I have never enjoyed a museum tour so much in my life. We took a tour through history. Starting at the first tractor that Lamborghini ever made. Did you even know that Lamborghini started in the tractor business? Yes, Ferruccio Lamborghini was a farmer. Well that’s what Ferrari told him when he approached them with news that their clutch could use some improvements. Ferrari would have nothing of it, who is this farmer to tell us how to fix our car? So Ferruccio decided to take his knowledge and build his own car. Only bigger and better. Above: Fabio Lamborghini.
What sets Lamborghini apart from any other car is
Below: Early Lamborghini Tractor
how exclusive it is. Not just anyone can own one. You need to be more than wealthy to own one. When we looked up prices during our stay at Blogville, we couldn’t find a car under $300,000!
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Our Fabio Lamborghini tour As we were led around the museum by Fabio, all I could think about was how much his shoes must cost. I mean, this is a man that comes from a family with a lot of money. And yet, here he was talking to us with passion. He was
fun and approachable and excited to share the story of Lamborghini with us. He’s the guy who told us about the clutch story and how it motivated Ferruccio to make a great car of his own.
Above: The Classic Lamborghini. Below: Ferruccio Lamborghini looks over the Museum.
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Left: The Lamborghini Helicopter, Yellow was Ferruccio’s favourite colour. He showed us the mini Lamborghini that Ferruccio made for his son to have his own motorized toy car.
More than just cars We learned that Lamborghini made everything from skis to helicopters. The helicopter is an interesting story because there was only one made. It was modern and designed with Lamborghini perfection, but the government had a monopoly on building helicopters, so he wasn’t allowed to make them. Today, it hangs from the ceiling of the family museum. We were amazed to see the Lamborghini “Vespa” and bicycles and air conditioners. This guy loved to build. Below: The Lamborghini toy car.
Below: The Lamborghini ‘Vespa’.
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What Came First DeLorean or Lamborghini? Lamborghini designed a car with gull wing doors long before DeLorean imitated the design and made it famous in Back To The Future.
When I asked Fabio why Lamborghini didn’t pursue this design he replied, “Well, it’s an inefficient design.” Couldn’t argue with that.
The Official Auto of the Vatican is Lamborghini We saw the actual golf cart John Paul II used during his that what you call time in Pope?) The bullet proof glass on it and it was as if the Pope was with us on the seat of the cart.
that Pope reign (is office as was still right there
Ferruccio’s Actual Cars We saw Ferruccio’s own personal car that he drove in the 1948 Mille Miglia and when Fabio asked us to guess how much it is worth, we came up with all sorts of answers, but the true one was “Priceless, It’s not for sale,” he said. And then the finale came when we were allowed to sit in a Lamborghini of our choosing. Ok, we had the choice of two. We chose to sit in the classic Countach, you know the one used in the Canonball Run? Ah, Burt Reynolds and Dom DeLuise at their best, they always looked like they were having so much fun in those movies. And then Fabio was gracious enough to let us all pose for a photo with him. What a nice guy. I got his card too! So we’re thinking, the next
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time we’re in Italy, we may give him a call and see if he
“been there, done that and bought the T-Shirt.” I don’t
wants to go for a spin in one of Ferruccio’s classics. I think
think we ever leave a place without getting a T-shirt for
he’ll go for it!
him. We have an entire box dedicated to Dave’s T-shirts.
It Had to End Some Time
We definitely didn’t have enough time at this museum.
Our tour ended upstairs where we could buy some
I could have spent much longer looking at all the
memorabilia and we couldn’t leave the place without
photographs on the walls and take a slower walk through
buying a T-Shirt. Dave really is one of those guys who has
all the prototypes and gadgets in the complex.
know before you go: The Ferrucio Family museum is located in Funo. You must book an exclusive tour in advance by contacting the Ferruccio Lamborghini Museum or email at info@lamborghini.it For more information on travel to Emilia Romagna, visit Emilia Romagna tourism. You can also follow more travel bloggers as they explore the region with blogville on Twitter.
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Walking the streets of Ferrara
by kirsten alana aviatorsandacamera.com
The UNESCO World Heritage town of Ferrara is just one of the places that we visited during the time we spent away from Bologna as part of our greater tour following the Mille Miglia 1000 mile car rally, during the #Blogville campaign.
15th centuries (one even has a moat!), wonderful food and very friendly locals. It also has some of the most wonderfully preserved outer walls of any town in the country. Following those walls are bike paths and the city in general is very bicycle friendly.
It’s a wonderful brick medieval-feeling town with wide streets, palaces that were built in the 14th and
Apparently in the 15th and early 16th centuries, Ferrara became a cultural center that was well known for
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visual arts and great music because of the patron, Ercole d’Este I. I still felt that spirit when I walked the city, an air of culture and celebration of beauty and of life in general. I want to write more about Ferrara but until I have the words and the time to do our short stay justice, I wanted to share some of the photos I took while just wandering the streets. It’s a truly beautiful town and not to be missed is Via Delle Volte, one of the oldest and best-preserved cobblestone streets in Europe. It is straight and very narrow, running parallel to the Po River. Its many archways also make it distinctive. Ferrara is part of the Emilia Romagna region of Italy and should not be missed during any travels in the northeast of Italy.
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Pink Flamingos in Italy?
by ted & Bethany Rydmark twooregonians.com
H
ow do you deepen a friendship? Let your guard down. Share a comfortable meal. Reveal hidden sides of your personality. How do you deepen a friendship with Italy? Turns out, in the same way. Think of that sheepish smile when a new acquaintance admits an unexpected tidbit of their story and you both discover the link of shared fascinations or pastimes. That’s how we felt on our visit to Ferrara, “Little Venice,” and the Po Delta wetlands. (“Pink Flamingos in Italy? No way! You have them, too? We just saw Flamingos in Bolivia…small, small world.”) Looking past Italy’s polished monuments and hotspots in order to get to know Emilia Romagna better is a bit like striking up sparkling conversation with a character at a black tie affair and then being invited to join them for a backyard BBQ. On a recent day trip from Bologna, Ted and I found Italy with its hair down, kitchen apron on, and Best of Audubon and Birding Italia laid open on the coffee table.
Stop One: Castello Estense in Ferrara, Italy
for their morning catch. As we drew near to the city on that sunny morning, brick buildings rose higher, casting a warm glow over the charming streets. The entire city is a UNESCO heritage site with iconic Castello Estense looking like it could be the backdrop to
The ancient city of Ferrara is situated near the ticklish spot at the back-of-the-knee on the Italian boot. It’s only a few kilometers south of the Po River, and about 50 kilometers off the coast of the Mediterranean Sea.
a Kenneth Branagh adaption of a Shakespeare play.
To reach it, we drove an hour or so northeast beyond our home base, through the low, flat countryside between the Adriatic and the Apennines. Out the windows, farmland boasted the largest rice growing region in Emilia Romagna, and trout fisherman worked the waterways
a domineering physical symbol above the lowlands of
The fortress was originally constructed in 1385 after a riot among the weary and over-taxed peasants caused the governing family to throw up defenses and establish Emilia. We visited the Castello with our group of travel writing friends, crawling through dark tunnels into the basement
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prison cells and then hoofing it up the internal flights
city along the Po River had a profound impact on city
of steel grate stairs to gain access to tower balconies
planning for centuries following, and my first introduction
overlooking the castle grounds and the city skyline.
to this castle and city left me (surprise, surprise) curious
The architectural heritage and urban development of the
to learn more…
Stop Two: Manifattura dei Marinati and Museo dell’Anguilla in Comacchio Just beyond Ferrara on the edges of the Po Delta wetlands lies “Little Venice,” a fishing town built on 13 islands with a culture deeply tied to the land and the sea, with bike rides and canal waterways to win over any seafood-and-leisurely-afternoon loving heart.
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More than sights and spokes and sugary snacks, though, this particular spot in Emilia Romagna offers a respectable heritage of Slow Food roots dating back to medieval times. The city’s pride is completely entwined with the stalwart eel that spend two to three years crossing the Atlantic Ocean from Central America to arrive in the salt marsh waters of Comacchio and mature in protection from predators. Protection from predators is well and good, but with the Slow Food comment you may guess where this is going—a sad tale
for the fish, I’m afraid. But respectful, rest assured.
“The message is simple: respect the eel, respect it’s life cycle, respect the land and sea and traditions of the region’s people, and produce delicious seafood.” -132-
Beginning in 900, residents of Comacchio constructed facilities to block the autumn return of the eel to the open sea, harvesting the creatures for sustenance. We visited the Manifattura dei Marinati (the town’s historic processing plant) and its Museo dell’Anguilla (Eel Museum) to learn more about the local tradition and sample the salt water cuisine. Restored fishing boats and brining
barrels
fireplaces
now
tell
the
frying fish; Dried eel skin was used to make shoelaces;
simple:
respect
the
eel,
The remaining charcoal in the firepits was distributed to
respect its life cycle, respect the land and sea
farmers to spread on their fields, increasing soil fertility
tale. and
and
The
massive
message
traditions
produce method
of
delicious for
is
the
region’s
seafood.
producing
people,
The
marinated
and
traditional eel
involved
decapitating the eel, slicing and arranging them to roast whole on long iron spits, cooking carefully over open flame fire, then packaging in a vinegar and saltwater brine.
and crop production; And the meat itself was marinated and preserved, sold for income and eaten in the home. The 1954 Sophia Loren movie “The River Girl� features the actress working on the very same factory floor at Manifattura dei Marinati. (Note: pit-hair. What was that about getting better acquainted with Italy?) Also, Ted
Not a bit of eel went to waste: Chopped heads were
found the eel toys in the museum lobby. (Incidentally,
given to the poor for making broth; Flesh was roasted;
his pose below is a series that began with the creature at
Oil drippings were used in lamps; The fat was used for
Torres del Paine.)
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Left: The Hall of Fires – a room with a dozen massive brick and earthen fireplaces used to process the eels throughout the years.
Below: Our hostess preparing a tasty sample.
Since our springtime visit was not in tune with the autumn eel harvest, we feasted instead on bite sized shrimp and fish, deep fried to perfection and served piping hot with an accompanying glass of the local Rosso Frizzante wine. Slow Food at its finest: gratefulness for the provisions of the earth, attentiveness to the seasons, care for the natural systems, and celebration of the goodness of food and life. Cheers to food and friendship with Italy!
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Stop Three: Birding on The Po Delta Wetlands But what about the flamingos? “There’s a 99% chance that we’ll see them,” I heard someone say. All those deep fried shrimp? Turns out their cousins often get eaten by the pink birds living in the marshy waterways of the Po. The Po Delta and its wetlands are part of the UNESCO World Heritage sites along with the city of Ferrara. The
natural area is habitat for a great mix of flora and fauna among its channels, lagoons, rivers, marshes and the sea, and it’s accessible for up-close investigation by walking and biking trails or by boat. The timing of our visit coincided with the International Po Delta Birdwatching Fair, a large event held annually in late April. We joined an afternoon boat tour, watching for all sorts of wildlife.
But the Valli di Comacchio (Fish Basins of Comacchio) host over 300 bird species, including black-winged stilts, egrets, purple herons, kingfishers, moorhens, coots, mallards, cormorants and, yes, flamingos. And then, after drifting lazily down the channels for an hour or two, the calm afternoon came to a close. The end of a pleasant day on the plains and waterways. No exclamation points, no giant conclusions. Simply a farewell to a new friend, and the hope to spend time again soon discovering quirks and mining interesting depths of a new character.
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In the meantime, I’m not sure how to repay Italy for its hospitality. I’m thinking dinner at our place someday…we can toast the architecture in our City of Bridges, grill Pacific Northwest Salmon and go for a nature-watching spree on the Springwater
Corridor…But we’ll take it slow. No need to rush things. A good relationship grows organically, and it’s lovely making friends with the world.
know before you go: Ferrara Tourism Visit www.ferraraterraeacqua.it/en for details on lodging, food, events and sights in this part of Emilia Romagna, Italy. Castello estense Visit www.castelloestense.it/en for visitor and historical information and a virtual tour. Comacchio Eel Festival The city hosts a celebration each fall with exhibitions, shows, tours, cooking classes, seminars and guided boat tours over the first two weekends of October. Visit www.winefoodemiliaromagna.com/ events/eel-festival.html to learn more. Valli di Comacchio – Po Delta Park Tours run March through the end of October between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. boats leave with a 10 passenger minimum. Departures at 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. are guaranteed. A reservation is required, call +39 340 2534267 and visit their website to learn more. Visitors Centers of the Po Delta Park Seven spots, including Manifattura dei Marinati in Comacchio, are devoted to regionally-specific artifacts of heritage, food, culture, and ecology.
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in a ferrara frenzy? learn more about Emilia Romagna’s little venice: • Ferrara, Italy – From Castello Estense To Cappellacci di Zucca • My Top 5 Reasons To Visit The Italian Town Of Ferrara This Summer • Withstanding An Earthquake • Treated Like VIPs At The Palio in Ferrara • Ferruccio Lamborghini Museum • Palio di Ferrara - Girls’ Race In Piazza Ariostea (Video) • Palio di Ferrara – The medieval Festival In Photos And Video • Palio di Ferrara - Flag Ceremony (Video) • Ferrara, City Of The Renaissance And The Po Delta • Visiting Post-Earthquake Ferrara • 12 Reasons To Love Emilia Romagna • A Week In Emilia Romagna • Scenes From Emilia Romagna • The Mirrors Of Castello Estense In Ferrara
• Itália: 25 Coisas Que Eu Amei Na Emilia Romagna • Itália: A Cidade Medieval de Ferrara • O Tartufino E Sua Cadela Laica • Itália: 8 Passeios Imperdíveis Na Região da Emília Romanha • Bondeno E Suas Surpresas
•【 意 大 利 】 兰 博 基 尼 － 超 级 跑 车 传 奇 的 往 世 今 生 •【 从 拖 拉 机 到 超 级 跑 车 】 听 兰 博 基 尼 的 侄 子 讲 故 事 。
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Ravenna
mosaics, dante’s tomb a sweet salt -138-
ravenna at a glance Emperor Augustus helped Ravenna’s rise to power by building a naval base and port nearby at Classe in the 1st century BC. Later the city fell under Ostrogoth and then Byzantine rule, all the while building on its outstanding collection of Christian mosaics. These mosaics, which span the centuries between Roman and Byzantine rule in the 6th century, are what draws most visitors to this coastal city. Ravenna’s oldest monument is the 5th century Neonian Baptistry, which was built near the ruins of a Roman bathhouse and features the gorgeous mosaic, Baptism of Jesus. Beyond the mosaics, Ravenna is home to Dante’s Tomb; he came to the city after being exiled from Florence in the 14th century. And in Piazza del Popolo, Ravenna’s central square, a collection of medieval buildings make taking that break from sightseeing all the more enjoyable. Speaking of sightseeing, the Museo Nazionale has nice collection of paintings and archaeological items on display.
don’t miss: 1. the mosaics
2. The Basilica of San Francesco
Photo by Wild-About-Travel.com
Photo by @qiseditu
3. The sweet salt of Cervia
4. The beach in Milano Marittima
Photo by Emilia Romagna Tourism
Photo by @aprendizviajante
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Getting there: by car: From Bologna take the Motorway A 14 direction to Ancona. From Rimini take the Motorway A14 direction to Bologna. For more info visit the Motorway website: www.autostrade.it.
by train: There are regional train connections from Bologna, Rimini and Ferrara that arrive every hour. To see trains schedules and connections to all the railway stations of the region as well as other Italian destinations, visit the Italian Railway website: www.trenitalia.it.
by plane: Flights arrive and depart regularly from the Bologna Airport. For more information, visit www.bologna-airport.it.
Piacenza
Parma
Ferrara
Reggio Emilia Modena
Ravenna
Bologna Faenza ForlĂŹ
Cesena
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Rimini
The wonders of Ravenna
by keith jenkins velvetescape.com
Above: The Basilica di San Vitale.
R
avenna is a small, historic town in the Italian
these significant attractions, the town is far from
region of Emilia Romagna. Located close to
over-run by tourists, allowing visitors to enjoy its historic
the Adriatic Sea, the town can trace its history
wonders at a leisurely pace. In addition, a large part of
back more than 2,000 years. Ravenna enjoyed a
Ravenna’s centre is a pedestrian zone—the only thing
prosperous period during Roman rule in the 1st century
you’ll have to look out for when you’re strolling around
A.D. before being occupied by a succession of other
are bicycles!
powers including the Ostrogoths and the Byzantines. Each ruler left his mark in the town, much of which
The mosaics of Ravenna
can still be seen till this day – that explains the fact
I was attracted to Ravenna after reading up about
that despite its small size, Ravenna boasts no less
its UNESCO sites and stunning mosaics but during
than eight(!) UNESCO World Heritage sites. Despite
my stay there, I discovered other great reasons
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Right: The stunning dome of the Basilica di San Vitale. that warrant a stay of at least a few days. The UNESCO sites can be covered in a day or two as most of them are within walking distance of one another. The ticket office near the Basilica di San Vitale sells single tickets that cover entrance to five of the eight sites. I started my walk at the 1st-century Basilica di San Vitale, one of the most treasured examples of early Christian and Byzantine art in Western Europe. The basilica, with its towering columns and rich, vividly-coloured mosaics, is absolutely awe-inspiring. Right next to the basilica is another UNESCO site, the Mausoleo di Galla Placidia. This mausoleum contains three sarcophagi, amongst which a sarcophagus that contains the remains of Galla Placidia, the daughter of a Roman Emperor. UNESCO describes this mausoleum as one of the best-preserved mosaic monuments, and rightfully so. The intricate mosaics, stunning depictions and striking colours are jaw-dropping beautiful. Cole Porter reputedly composed his famous song, “Night & Day,” after a visit here in the 1920s. I can imagine why. As you enter, you’re greeted by a rich blue ceiling with glittering gold stars. It’s incredible, once you think about it, how much effort was made to create these masterpieces using miniscule, coloured tiles! The other UNESCO sites I visited included the impressive Battistero Neoniano, the little but no less impressive Capella di San Andrea (both of which are adjacent to Ravenna’s Duomo) and the cavernous Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo.
Left: Entering the Mausoleo di Galla Placidia.
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Above: Inside the cavernous Basilica di S. Apollinare Nuovo.
Above: The rich mosaics of Capella di San Andrea. Below: The dome of the Battisterio Neoniano.
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Exploring Ravenna Ravenna itself is a lovely town with charming streets filled with boutiques, cafés, shops selling regional produce, restaurants and gelaterias! The town’s central point is the picturesque Piazza del Popolo. From here, pedestrian only streets fan out in different directions. At certain points in the town, visitors will find large interactive screens which provide lots of information about attractions, shops and restaurants. The Via Cavour, Via IV Novembre and Via Corrado Ricci were my favourite streets. Via Cavour is the main shopping street and extends from the historic Porta Ariana to the heart of the city at Via IV Novembre, where you can find a plethora of restaurants and cafés. I discovered a fabulous restaurant in this street called Bella Venezia (reservations recommended). The food was superb!
find people crowding around Ca de Ven, a bar/restaurant that truly is an institution in Ravenna. The atmosphere is terrific, and if the restaurant is full, simply have a drink at the bar during Aperitivo (Italian Happy Hour) and dig into the Aperitivo buffet (the food is included in the price of the drink). I absolutely enjoyed my visit to Ravenna and wished I could’ve stayed longer—two days was a tad too short. I loved the laid-back vibe of the town whilst the UNESCO sites were truly awe-inspiring. Ravenna is easily accessible by train from Bologna and Rimini, about an hour from both. If you’re travelling through Italy and visiting Emilia-Romagna, don’t miss Ravenna! Interested in learning more about Ravenna? Be sure to check out this website.
Another restaurant in the same street I can recommend is Cappello. After having a gorgeous dinner at Bella Venezia, I made another awesome discovery: Papilla, one of the best gelaterias I’ve ever been to! There’s a chocolate tap near the entrance which made my mouth water the second I saw it! I chose two flavours (chocolate and mango) and had the cone filled up with more chocolate. The result: an experience I won’t easily forget! A walk along Via Corrado Ricci will bring you past other Ravenna attractions such as the Biblioteca Oriani at the Piazza Sant Francesco and Dante Alighieri‘s Tomb (prior to visiting Ravenna, I had no idea this famous poet was buried here). In the evenings, you’ll
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Mosaic man
by michael turtle timetravelturtle.com
L
uca Barberini places the small piece of marble into place carefully but with the ease of an experienced artist. He reaches for another as he chats with me, the motions as natural as breathing. Centuries have passed since the first mosaic makers of Ravenna but the tradition lives on—right now, through Luca. Although the original artists might be a bit shocked at exactly what he’s doing. “It’s possible to work with an ancient technique, an ancient language, for contemporary art,” he explains. Here in Ravenna, a small Italian city in the Emilia Romagna region, the mosaic artworks are more than just a tourist attraction. They are at the heart of the history and identity of the community. The oldest works, which were installed more than 1,500 years ago, adorn the interiors of Ravenna’s churches and historic buildings. “We have maybe the best monuments in the world where you can find the ancient mosaics,” Luca rightfully boasts.
“The ancients used the mosaics like a book,” he explains. “So if you go in a church you can see a figure—for example Christ—and you can learn the story like a cartoon.”
It’s not these artworks that Luca is most proud of, though. He is part of the new generation that is using the same techniques with a modern style – fusing tradition with current taste.
“So for the modern they don’t want to use the figurative things so it’s more like…” he pauses to try to think of an example I might understand, “…Pollock, Jackson Pollock.”
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“It’s possible to work with an ancient technique, an ancient language, for contemporary art.”
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Modern mosaic art Luca works out of his own studio in Ravenna called Koko
in Venice. It’s the same way they made the glass two
Mosaico. At the moment he’s in the middle of one of the
thousand years ago. Some things in this industry need
more abstract contemporary pieces he was just referring
never change, it seems.
to. Look closely and it seems like he’s randomly placing different sized and coloured pieces. Step back and a crowd of people appears from his work, each figure with their own characteristics.
For Luca, other than the style of his art, it is essentially the same process. He does only one thing differently. Rather than cutting all his pieces of marble and glass before he starts to make the mosaic, he does it as he goes. It goes
He’s using marble for some pieces, glass for others. The
against everything the methodical ancients believed in…
glass is made especially for mosaic art in an ancient oven
but boys will be boys!
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ravenna mosaic art The art of Ravenna is in the blood of its children. Luca started studying at the art institute of mosaics when he was 14 and was there for five years. Interestingly, though, he says it was only about five years ago—when he was 25—that he was able to really express himself creatively. “I understand just five or six years ago how I explain my personal art in a language—the language is mosaics.”
The style of art is world-famous. To the point where
that their descendants are decorating a mosque in the
the tourists who come to Ravenna come mainly for the
Middle East or finding inspiration for their work from
art, where Hollywood celebrities have asked Luca to make artworks for them, and a mosque in Oman has commissioned him and his team to make a 600 square metre mosaic for its design.
Jackson Pollock? Maybe they wouldn’t mind at all. Maybe they would just be proud that the tradition of Ravenna, the legend of the mosaics, lives on.
I wonder what the artists of Ravenna in the 5th century
To see more about Luca and his work, head to the Koko
would make of all of this? Would they be more surprised
Mosaico website.
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Dante’s Tomb: Small But Divine
by norbert figueroa globotreks.com
R
avenna, Italy, might be well known for its mosaics, but did you know that it is also where Dante’s mausoleum is located? While I enjoyed watching many of the buildings, churches and mosaics in Ravenna, Dante’s tomb was the one that caught my attention the most. Although Dante was born in Florence, and dearly loved that city, he spent the last years of his life in Ravenna after being exiled from Florence. It was in Ravenna, during those last years, where he wrote The Divine Comedy. The mausoleum is quite small, but it is well worth seeing, since it is a small piece of art and, of course, Dante Alighieri is considered to be one of the major Italian poets of the Middle Ages, and probably of all times. The mausoleum is quite easy to find, as it is located near the Church of San Francesco where his funeral was held. Even though Dante died in 1321, this mausoleum was built in 1780 (he was previously buried at the Church of San Francesco). On the outside, you will be able to identify it by the inscription that says, “Dante Poetae Sepulcrum.”Inside the mausoleum you will see a burning candle hanging from the ceiling. As an interesting fact, the city of Florence supplies the
oil for the lamps that burn in the tomb, as a penance for exiling Dante. On the rear wall, you will see a well decorated pedestal with two columns and an arch, which frames the marble bas-relief of Dante.
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As mentioned before, the space might be small, but what it lacks in space it supplies in details. From the ornaments and bas-relief at the base of the dome and pendentives, to the mosaics on the floor and the contrasts of colored marbles, this mausoleum deserves more than a few minutes of admiration.
Right next to the mausoleum, you will also find a mound of earth. From March 1944 to December 1945, Dante’s urn was buried here because it was feared that his tomb would suffer from the bombings of World War II. Luckily, it didn’t happen.
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The exquisite Ravenna mosaics by kAthryn BURRINGTON TRAVELWITHKAT.com
W
hile I had heard of the Ravenna mosaics, I had no idea just what an amazing experience visiting them would be. They are among the most beautiful things I have ever seen, and it is no wonder that these unique early Christian monuments are all listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites. I was lucky enough to visit four of the 8 sites in and around Ravenna. In the 5th century, Ravenna was the capital of the Roman Empire and also of the Byzantine Italy that followed, up until the 8th century. It was in the 5th and 6th century when all these masterpieces were built.
Mausoleum of Galla Placidia As was the tradition, the exterior is rather plain but the interior is lavishly decorated. The iconography used represents the victory of eternal life over death. Each visitor is only allowed inside for five minutes so as not
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to disturb the microclimate inside, but I think you’ll agree this is something that is well worth looking after. The lower portion of the walls are lined in marble but the upper portion and all the ceiling is covered in the most beautiful of mosaics I have ever seen. As was the tradition the exterior is rather plain but the interior is
lavishly decorated. The iconography used represents the victory of eternal life over death. Each visitor is only allowed inside for 5 minutes so as not to disturb the micro-climate inside but I think you’ll agree this is something that is well worth looking after. The lower portion of the walls are lined in marble but the upper portion and all the ceiling is covered in the most beautiful of mosaics I have ever seen. A well as the light from a number of alabaster window panels (shown above and below), electric light was also being used but originally there would have been flickering lanterns, which would have made the gold in the mosaics twinkle. If you would like to know more about this building and the powerful woman who built it, Galla Placidia, the daughter of Emperor Theodosius I, there is an interesting video on the Smart History website. For further information including opening times visit Turismo.
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Basilica of San Vitale Construction of the basilica started in 526 by the Goths on the site of the martyrdom of St. Vitalis , but it was the Bynzatines that finished it in 548, after taking over Ravenna some eight years earlier. You’ll find more information on the website Sacred Destinations. The great cupola is decorated in 18th century murals ,which are rather out of keeping with the rest of the church and its Byzatine mosaics. Here there is no time limit to your visit, but as is so often the case, I was so busy trying to get some good images (which was not easy because of the crowds and the terrible lighting) that I didn’t take time to simply stop and soak it all in. Don’t make the same mistake as me. Sit down, admire and drink it all in. Only then snap away and grumble at the people standing quite obviously in your way (without realising, no doubt, that you are most probably in another photographers way yourself). Don’t be fooled into just looking up, the floor is also quite lovely and includes a labyrnith. Rather than leading you into the centre of the maze the arrows lead you from the centre out.
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Basilica of Sant’ Apollinare Nuovo
The Arian Baptistry
A sumptuously decorated chapel erected by Ostrogoth King Theodoric the Great as his palace chapel during the first quarter of the 6th century. Another wonderful place but with fewer visitors.
This small octagonal building was also erected by the Ostrogothic King Theodoric the Great between the end of the 5th century and the beginning of the sixth century.
know before you go: For further information on these and other sites, please visit Turismo.ra.it. You will find details on each monument, including opening times and costs, by clicking the links in the panel on the right hand side.
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romanced by ravenna? learn more about Emilia Romagna’s mosaic gem: • The Immaculate Bursting Mosaics Of Ravenna • Mausoleum Of Galla Placidia In Ravenna • Ravenna In Pictures • A Day Trip To Ravenna • Koko Mosaico: Colour And Love In Ravenna • The Magnificent Ravenna Mosaics Of S. Apollinare Nuovo • A Week In Emilia Romagna • 32 Tips For Solo Travel In Emilia Romagna • Around Emilia Romagna • Where to go in 2014? Ravenna • Emilia Romagna’s Amazing!
• Ravenne, Capitale De La Mosaïque • Ravenna Street Art
• Ravena A Cidade Dos Mosaicos • Direto Da Emilia Romagna Na Itália: Milano Marittima, Rimini e Ravenna • 11 Razões Para Se Apaixonar Pela Emilia Romagna
• 拉文纳，不可思议的马赛克之城 •【 意 大 利 拉 文 纳 】 绝 美 马 赛 克 教 堂 深 藏 不 露
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Faenza at a glance Faenza is best known for its faience ceramic-ware. The pottery, which features distinctive blue and ocher coloring, has been popular in Europe for more than 500 years, and is still produced in small factories around the city. However, Faenza’s industrial activities started well before the renaissance. Pottery and textile production helped the city flourish in the 1st century. And now, nearly 2,000 years later, Faenza is said to be blessed with a long arc of historical evolution, heightened over time by architecture with features from the Renaissance and Neoclassical periods. Faenza’s Museo Internazionale delle Ceramiche is one of the world’s most important museums for pottery and has the largest ceramic collection in the country. The museum also houses ceramic art from modern painters, such as Matisse and Picasso.
don’t miss: 1. Faenza town centre
2. The MIC International Ceramics Museum Photo by @sofiacomo
Photo by solotravelerblog.com
3. The nearby town of Brisighella Photo by Adventurouskate.com
4. The fine wines of the hills around Faenza Photo by solotravelerblog.com
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Getting there: by car: From Bologna take the Motorway A 14 direction to Ancona or SS9 Via Emilia direction to Faenza. From Rimini take Motorway A 14 direction to Bologna or SS9 Via Emilia direction to Faenza. For more information, visit the Motorway website: www.autostrade.it.
by train: There are regional train connections from Bologna, Rimini and Ravenna that arrive every hour. To see train schedules and connections to all the railway stations in the region and other Italian destinations, visit the Italian Railway website www.trenitalia.it.
by plane: Flights arrive and depart regularly to Bologna Airport. For more information, visit www.bologna-airport.it.
Piacenza
Parma
Ferrara
Reggio Emilia Modena
Ravenna
Bologna Faenza ForlĂŹ
Cesena
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Rimini
CERAMICS, A FROG and CHOCOLATE SALAMI by sara NÄSE Getpalmd.com
I
actually enjoyed Faenza a lot, although it would probably never cross my mind to do everything I did there if I was traveling solo. But because it is the city of ceramics, we visited the museum Museo Internazionale delle Ceramiche in Faenza and a potter with a small shop nearby (Geminiani Gino at Via Nuova 13).
I rarely go to museums. It would be wrong to say it’s out of my comfort zone, because I don’t really have one like I do with food. I think you should try as many different things as possible. You won’t like everything, but that’s not the point either. However, museums and cultural events like theater, ballet, exhibitions and even concerts are things I just don’t attend unless I have a very good reason (i.e. good company or a press trip). It doesn’t at all mean I don’t enjoy them when I am there, but for some reason I just stay away from them even when traveling (unless we’re talking about cars). However, a few good experiences later and I am now ready to try this more often!
Ceramics are more fascinating than I would have imagined. I made a few pots when I was a kid, but remembering what they looked like I haven’t really thought about the fact that with skills people are able to create pretty epic things with their hands. I actually enjoyed the modern ceramics a lot (the fly, the man coming out from the artwork, the orchid, etc.), it’s the type of style I could see in my own home. And the “squeezed” espresso cups in
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all the bright colors—absolutely love them!
Our visit to Faenza was short but the town looked cute;
(actually, there is a huge first lunch and then a huge
however, I really don’t think there’s a “not-cute” town
dinner, so you eat like a horse twice a day). La Baita got
in Emilia Romagna so probably just repeating myself.
us, and it’s actually rated the number one restaurant in
I kissed the small frog on the fountain by the way (no
Faenza on Tripadvisor. Food was really, really good, but
frenchie this time) but based on my personal test
lets talk desserts for a few seconds—chocolate salami,
results, it didn’t really work as you’d expect it to.
oh my GOD! Sweet things make you happy for a short
All days in Italy end with booze (wine) and loads of food
a while!.
moment, until you get back home—I’m now on a diet for
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road trip: The backroads of emilia romagna by janice waugh solotravelerblog.com
The countryside of Emilia Romagna.
B
ologna is a wonderful city to visit. It’s also a city from which to visit the surrounding area. It sits in the heart of Emilia Romagna, on the
Via Emilia, the ancient road used during Roman times to travel from Rome to the north. There are towns every 30 km along the Via Emilia. The spacing of the towns was determined by the distance that Roman soldiers were expected to walk in a day. From Bologna, the rail system can take you to any of these small towns. But I wanted to get into the countryside. To see the landscape in the Apennines, a mountain range that runs almost the length of Italy, and
some of the villages not serviced by train. For this, I needed to take a car.
Driving for empowerment For me, there’s always a certain amount of excitement when preparing to drive in a new country and culture and a certain amount of anxiety. Step by step, is how I do it. Step one: Get to the car rental office Almost everything is within walking distance in Bologna’s city center, but to pick up a rental car, I had to take a bus. (How to take a local bus is detailed at the end of this post.)
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Step two: Pick up the car
Visiting Imola and Faenza
Arriving at the car rental I went through the administrative details of getting the car (both license and passport are required). I was advised to get full insurance and, being the cautious sort, I did. Perhaps I could have done better. Unlike North America, the service person did not walk around the car with me to take note of any damage. When I did a walk-around myself I could see why. There were dings and scrapes and dents everywhere.
Arriving back to the towns along the Via Emiia, I went to Imola and Faenza. Imola was dead quiet—many of the locals work in Bologna, so the town was quite empty. Faenza was just down the road but I got it into my head that since it was such a beautiful day, I would go to Ravenna and see the mosaics.
I went back inside and had them take note of everything. Step three: drive I have driven in Italy before—but that was 11 years ago. What I found then was that the further south I went the more frenetic the traffic. I wasn’t too concerned about Bologna. I had found the city to be quite relaxed and I expected the traffic to be pretty good. And it was. But looking down the road from the rental office, I could see that I had my first roundabout within 500 meters. I negotiated it with ease and felt exuberant. This is what solo travel does. Small feats can feel like real accomplishments and I whooped my way past the roundabout to another and onto the ring road out of town.
Unfortunately, that didn’t work out. I took two runs at Ravenna – two! – and still didn’t manage to get to the city center. At a certain point one has to figure that it just wasn’t meant to be and give up. So around I turned and went to Faenza. I was glad I did. While I only explored the central piazza, I found it to be a really lovely town and could have spent more time there had I not been required to return the car. Unfortunately, that didn’t work out. I took two runs at Ravenna—two!—and still didn’t manage to get to the city center. At a certain point one has to figure that it just wasn’t meant to be and give up. So around I turned and went to Faenza. I was glad I did. While I only explored the central piazza, I found it to be a really lovely town and could have spent more time there had I not been required to return the car.
The town center of Faenza.
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Road trip – exhausting, somewhat expensive, but worth it.
of driving the back roads—especially on such a beautiful
Renting a car to get to the small towns is certainly more
for my rental car. The VAT in Italy is 22% so it was a big
expensive than taking the train (130€ for the day). It is
hit. My research shows that this tax cannot be reclaimed
also exhausting. Being both navigator and driver is tiring.
as can VAT on purchases of items that your are taking
But it was worth it. On a train one does not get the thrill
home with you.)
day. (Update: the rental was actually much more than expected. The VAT, which is usually included in any price you see in the stores, was not included in the price quoted
know before you go: bus transit in bologna, italy 1. Buy your ticket from any Tabacchi (tobacco shop). 2. Use the small machine on a pole to validate your ticket when you enter the bus. You will now be good to travel for 75 minutes. 3. On a Google map of the city, you can focus in on your destination and click on the nearby bus stop to see what number stops there. 4. On the bus system map, you can see which color relates to that bus number and the route that it follows. Look at the route and you can see how to catch the bus you need.
how to drive a roundabout 1. Watch for the signs before the roundabout. They will often show an image of the roundabout with the exits and where the exits go to. 2. Slow down as you approach. If pedestrians are crossing come to a stop. 3. Yield to traffic in the roundabout. Traffic in the roundabout always has the right-of-way. 4. Enter when there is space going to the right, which is the direction of all traffic. 5. Use your turn signal to indicate where you plan to leave. If you miss your exit, don’t worry, just go around again and catch it the next time. 6. Note: most roundabouts have significant centers—some even contain art. You can’t miss the fact that they are a roundabout. On smaller roads, they can be more subtle. You may not even notice the center of the roundabouts. Watch for them so that you don’t travel through as if it were an ordinary intersection.
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THE amazing view from brisighella’s torre dell‘orologio by keane li keane.li
O
f all the small towns in Emilia-Romagna that I’ve seen so far, none have taken my breath away as thoroughly as Brisighella. The colors of the
city, rich with influences from nearby Tuscany, pop in the sun with warm hues. The buildings were constructed higher to accommodate for larger families, making the homes here stretch further up than those of many other Italian cities. Even more intriguing is the indoor public
street, created as a defense against invaders. Markets and donkey stalls were once held in these elevated walkways, creating a bustling but hidden-from-view social center. But perhaps the most glorious attraction of Brisighella is its clock tower, the Torre dell’Orologio, from where those who make it up the steps can witness brilliant views of the town’s hilltop fortress, its timeless palazzi and the rolling mountains that surround it all.
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fascinated with faenza? learn more about Emilia Romagna’s ceramic hotspot: • Base Camp Rimini: 3 Easy Day Trips, Faenza • Photo Essay: Small Town Emilia-Romagna • Magical Moments In Emilia Romagna • Beautiful, Bountiful Italy: My Souvenirs From Emilia Romagna
• Visite De La Charmante Brisighella
• Jedz, Módl Się, Kochaj
•【 意 大 利 】 小 城 小 镇 惊 喜 多 •【 意 大 利 】 多 彩 小 城 乐 趣 多
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ForlĂ a Cesena
Vino, views a cooking classes -167-
Forlì and CESENA at a glance To get to the heart of Emilia Romagna, one only has to travel to the province of Forlì-Cesena. Its eclectic landscape stretches from the coast up through the Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi in the Apennines. Along the way, seaside resorts and quaint towns producing art and wine are the hallmarks of this region. One of the most popular resorts is Cesenatico, which has a floating maritime museum in a canal designed by Leonardo da Vinci. Forlì-Cesena is known for its friendly locals and taste bud melting piadina, a traditional Italian flatbread whose smell is said to meander through the streets in Forlì, which is the capital city of the province. In Forlì, Piazza Saffi is the main square and is where you can find some of the city’s oldest buildings, such as Palazzo del Podestà and the Palazzo Albertini, which date back to the mid-15th and 16th centuries; though, both were reconstructed during fascism. Forlì is considered to be one of the best Italian cities to visit for those who are interested in the town planning and architecture of the fascist period.
don’t miss: 1. San Mercuriale in Forlí Photo by Emilia Romagna Tourism
2. Rationalist Architecture Forlí Photo by Emilia Romagna Tourism
3. The amazing view from Bertinoro Photo by twooregonians.com
4. Forlimpopoli and Pellegrino Artusi’s homecooking Photo by travelreportage.com
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in
Getting there: by car: From Bologna take the Motorway A 14 direction to Ancona or SS9 Via Emilia direction to Forlì and Cesena. From Rimini take Motorway A 14 direction to Bologna or SS9 Via Emilia direction to Forlì and Cesena. For more information, visit the Motorway website: www.autostrade.it.
by train: There are regional train connections from Bologna and Rimini that arrive every hour. To see train schedules and connections for all the train stations of the region as well as other Italian destinations, visit the Italian railway website: www.trenitalia.it.
by plane: Flights arrive and depart regularly from the Bologna Airport. For more information, visit www.bologna-airport.it.
Piacenza
Parma
Ferrara
Reggio Emilia Modena
Ravenna
Bologna Faenza Forlì
Cesena
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Rimini
five reasons to visit Forlì by roberta parisi browsingitaly.com
F
orlì is a city located in the northeast of Italy, in the Emilia Romagna region, south of Bologna and Ravenna and west
of Rimini. Its name has latin origins: Forum Livi, the place of Livio. Livio was the son of Marco Livio Salinatore, the Roman Consul that won the Battle of Metaurus in 207 B.C . In spite of its ancient origins, the most majestic buildings of Forlì date back to the beginning of 20th Century. Mussolini was born in this province, more specifically in a small town called Predappio, and here in Forlì it is possible to see many examples of Rationalist architecture from the Fascist time.
1. Viale della Libertà and Piazzale della Vittoria Arriving train
by
station
train
and
leaving
behind
you,
just
along Viale della Libertà,
the walk
a wide road
that leads to the city centre. The majority of were
the built
buildings during
on the
this
road
Fascist
time
and represent the perfect example of Rationalist architecture. At the end of the road your eyes are captured by the high column of the war memorial monument, located in the middle of Piazzale della Vittoria. This monument was built in 1932 and inaugurated to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the Fascist Revolution. On the top of the column, there is a
The square is one of the entry points to the city. In the same square there is also another Rationalist palace that was built for Mussolini, the ex-aeronautic school. In front of it, there is the enormous sculpture of Icarus, dedicated to Mussolini’s son who died while flying a plane.
bronze sculpture representing the goddess Victory.
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2. Piazza Saffi From Piazzale della Vittoria you find yourself on Corso della Repubblica. Walking along this road, you will arrive in the heart of the city—Piazza Saffi, a meeting spot for locals. It is surrounded by the most important buildings of the city: the Basilica of San Mercuriale, Palazzo del Podestà, siege of the city council, Palazzo Albertini—dating back to the 16th Century but substantially reconstructed during the Fascist period— and the building of the Post Office, another example
of
Rationalist
architecture.
3. Basilica san Mercuriale
The Basilica of San Mercuriale is one of the symbols of
most charming part is the lunette in beautiful pink
the city and is worth a visit. It is Romanesque in style
marble. Next to the church there is the bell tower,
and it is dedicated to the first bishop of Forlì. The
72 meters high and also in the Romanesque style.
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4. Musei San Domenico often hosts important international exhibitions. The San Domenico Complex is composed from an ancient church and two of it’s adjacent cloisters. The buildings have been recently renovated and during the restoration many archeological discoveries were made. Ceramic and glass wares for cooking, devotional objects and offerings for the people buried in the Church chapels are now part of the collection displayed in the museum, which helps visitors understand the way of life for the ancient inhabitants of the city. Another element that makes Forlì one of the art cities of Emilia Romagna is the San Domenico Complex, siege of the archeological museums and of an art gallery, that
Thanks to renovation work, wonderful frescoes were also revealed. They represent the crucial events of Saint Domenico’s life.
5. Parco Urbano Franco Agosto Forlì also has a green heart: the Parco Urbano Franco Agosto. It is a great park that is 26 hectares and is located just outside the wall of the ancient town. It is easy to reach by bike or foot, just follow the cycle path that starts in the city centre. On sunny days, locals often spend their free time here. There is a big green meadow to relax on and also a soccer field, basketball courts, beach fields and playgrounds for children. The Montone River crosses the park and there is a little lake with swans and ducks swimming around. There is also a large variety of flora and fauna here: oaks, poplars, thorn threes and roses fill in the landscape, and birds, rabbits and squirrels live free around the park.
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Making fresh Pasta with Casa Artusi by Cole Burmester fourjandals.com
A
s you might know, food is a pretty big deal for us. We basically only travel for crazy adventures or so that we can indulge our
taste buds with various sweets and savoury treats from
learning in the town where Italian cuisine was born, it’s fair to say we were a little excited. Giggling like school girls we exchanged a few high-fives
foreign lands. In particular, we love to learn how to
before reeling in our joy.
cook with the local ingredients.
casa artusi
food is the sole reason we chose to travel through italy.
Casa Artusi was created in Forlimpopoli to honour its most illustrious citizen, Pellegrino Artusi, who is
One of the things we really wanted to do in Italy was visit a cooking school. Arranging it with the Emilia
recognized worldwide as the father of Italian cuisine.
Romagna tourism board was simple and when they
Artusi dedicated his life to creating a cookbook for
told us that not only would we be learning from some
the kitchen at home called “La scienza in cucina e
of the best cooks in the world, but we would also be
l’arte di mangiare bene” or “The Science of Cooking
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and the Art of Eating Well�. The cookbook is still published with the old recipes with a few new ones added in each time.
pasta making class Greeted by our very own Marietta (the wonderful women who teach Italian cooking at Casa Artusi) we donned our aprons before being shown a very quick demonstration on how to make fresh pasta. It turns out that it’s not all that hard and even an amateur like myself can whip up a batch of fresh pasta in no time at all. Just mix 200g of flour and 2 eggs together and then knead, knead, knead and roll, roll, roll it out.
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I would have made an absolute mess of it all if I didn’t have my wonderful Marietta encouraging me with the odd pat on the back and “Bravo.” She actually seemed genuinely impressed with my skills in the kitchen. And considering I usually leave the cooking to Adela, I was secretly proud of myself as well. By the end of it, we had made all of this and earned the right to be inducted into the Casa Artusi alumni. This was definitely one of the highlights of our trip to Italy and it was such treat to be able to boil up our own homemade pasta and taste our own creations. If you get the chance, then we highly recommend you go and try out Casa Artusi yourself. The school is open to everyone, no matter if you are a professional chef or just an enthusiast who just wants to practice the art of home cooking.
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Traditions of the Land: Food in Italy by Bethany Rydmark twooregonians.com
E
ast of Bologna, the ancient medieval hilltop village of Bertinoro still feels like a fairytale, boasting a castle dating to 1000 A.D., a palace
“When you open a bottle, you have to be a little bit romantic,” he said, beginning his stories about the history and the evolution of wine production in this sleepy, fabled village. And from there his personality came spilling out as he shared tales of working the land, tending the vineyards, learning from his predecessors, and growing his own experience season after season. We sampled Celli Vini’s beauties and learned the lore, amused by Mauro’s footnotes and explanations. Our favorite tasting and story came from the golden hued Albana, the beverage famed for bequeathing the medieval village its modern name.
from 1306 A.D., a cathedral from the 16th century, views overlooking the plains and the coastline of the Adriatic sea yielding the hilltop the title, “Balcony of Romagna,” and wineries producing legendary golden Albana wines fit for a princess. Atop the hill of Bertinoro, Celli Vini owner Mauro Sirri welcomed us warmly, paid compliments to Oregon Pinot Noir, half apologized for his English (spoken better than my Italian, that’s for sure), then assured us that if all else failed we could “speak with hands and food!” and began to share the history of his family’s business along with generous pours of his finest wines and servings of delicious local cheese fresh with greens on piadina unleavened bread.
White Albana grapes have marked the region since the ancient Romans cultivated the soil, and the Albana Secco wine is a classic staple of the land. (Nerd factoid: Albana…related to albus…”white” in Latin…which pops up in many of my favorite Latin plant names…Dicentra spectabilis ‘Alba’, Anemone x hybrida ‘Alba’ etc. Anywho.) The Albana Passito dessert wine is crafted from grapes harvested the first week of October, after autumn fogs and ancient molds have begun their special work, then left to dry and sweeten for 40 days before the aging and fermentation process. According to legend, in 435 the beautiful blonde princess Galla Placidia, daughter of emperor Teodosio, came to the first house of the village on her white mare. Hospitable villagers offered her their
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local drink in a common terra-cotta cup. Upon drinking
Bron & Ruseval 2009 | Sangiovese-Cabernet | IGT Forli |
the near-amber colored wine, she exclaimed, “This is too
13,000 bottles produced
humble a way to drink you; I should drink you in gold (berti in oro).”
Bron & Ruseval “were and will be” nicknames of Sirri and Casadei, the two families of Celli
From then to present day, the village has been known as
Vini. Since medieval times, families often carried
Bertinoro.
reputations and nicknames passed on from father to son,
Ted’s never been a fan of white wine, but these golden
at risk of being lost along with the regional dialect, Celli
pours of Bertinoro’s crowning glory changed his mind
Vini will continue producing wines under the family
forever. Their reds, not to be outdone, put on a fine show,
nicknames “to honor the fruits of success born from
proudly bearing their own brand of local lore.
several generations working the same land, to produce
“If you don’t do anything to remember
separate from their official titles. Though the tradition is
the best.”
your story, you will lose it,” Mauro spoke.
“When you open a
For this reason, he shares happily with
bottle, you have to
guests, spreading the appreciation for the people and place sustaining his life
be a bit romantic.”
Production notes reveal his goodnatured approach to the challenges of a farmer’s patience: “2009 Vintage Features: The months May and June passed by without leaving
and these fine wines:
particular emotions, we had enough rainfalls, they
Bron & Ruseval 2009 | “Preview” Bertinoro Sangiovese |
were rather generous (falling always on Saturdays and
IGT Forli | 5,000 bottles produced (Preview of wine to be
Sundays, so we couldn’t enjoy the seaside), alternating
commercialized in 2014; first vintage in 2011)
with periods of good weather...”
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His 2011 Vintage Notes read nearly like a poem, candidly acknowledging the challenges of changing patterns and the dedication required to successfully continue a family business: “We are getting used to difficult situations that arise on all fronts: Political, Financial, Economic and clearly, the Weather. …the characteristics of the wines will be different, but this is the beauty of our work. Experience of
would eventually carry on the efforts of his days. Soon, the winery door swung open and in came his wife and their two daughters, stopping by on the way home from school. Eugenia, his seven-year-old daughter, approached shyly and stuck like glue to her dad’s side as he finished hosting our tasting. Mauro flashed a smile, bringing out a bar of
emotions and solve problems that every vintage store for you to test your sensitivity, your rigor in applying the most stringent protocols and the ability to interpret the nature that betrays us only if we betray her.” We savored our drinks and listened to his memories. He smiled, telling us about his first taste of family wine from his grandfather, who slipped him a sip behind the casks when his mother wasn’t looking. He shared about his personal economy of scale and the decision to resist high volume production in favor of enjoying his life’s work. The opportunities to tend the vineyard, visit the cellars, and enjoy tastings with customers are more important to him than growing a large company. “If I spend all my time on marketing, I wouldn’t be able to tell what is in the bottle. It would be a job for me; [as it is] it’s a pleasure.” Mauro has worked 27 harvests, and his humility and
darkest chocolate to pair with one last sip of Albana. The same smile appeared bright on Eugenia’s face, and I couldn’t help but wonder about the shape of her future as daddy’s little princess in this ancient land of golden wine and family lore; this sliver of Italy, 300 meters above the Adriatic Sea, atop soils of limestone crawling with vineyards of medieval grapes; this place where a man carrying a legacy shares the joy of his work, setting a fine example for every watching eye.
expertise reminds me of my own dad, a farmer who has probably worked about 46-odd harvests by now (am I doing the math right, dad?). “One life is not enough to do everything, you need the next generation,” he said, alluding the hard work of his forefathers and the future managers of Celli Vini that
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know before you go: For further information, contact Mauro Sirri at Celli Vini or visit them at Viale Carducci, 5, 47031 Bertinoro (Fc) Italy.
Magical Moments in Emilia Romagna by Kate McCulley adventurouskate.com Let me tell you about Emilia Romagna—an Italian region
touristed compared to Italy’s more popular regions. You
that is so dear to me.
don’t have to fight through umbrella-toting crowds or
It’s not as famous as Tuscany. There isn’t artwork on every corner like in Florence, nor does it buzz in the way that Rome does, nor is it as picturesque as Venice.
dodge tour buses in Emilia Romagna, and the tourists that do spend time here happen to be Italian themselves. That’s the Italy that I love, and that’s why I’ve been
But there’s something so warm about Emilia Romagna. The people are so friendly and kind. The cities are vibrant and exciting. The small towns are straight out of a painting. The food is exceptional—by far the best I’ve had in Italy.
fantasizing about moving to Bologna, Emilia-Romagna’s largest city, for every day since I left there a few weeks ago! On my latest visit to Emilia-Romagna, I had many magical moments that made me so deeply happy to be
And at the same time, this region is incredibly under-
there in that very moment.
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celebrating Blue Night in Bagno di Romagna
La Notte Celeste, or Blue Night. This festival is popular
The special overnight excursion of our week was to the
The streets were draped in blue gauze. Parades took place
town of Bagno di Romagna, where they were celebrating
with Italians but very few foreigners actually go to see it.
through the town with young women dressed as angels and in
trees,
leading
complimentary
children costumes.
An awesome 80s cover band played (seriously, they were awesome). Eventually, bunches of illuminated blue balloons were released into the sky. And
unlike
European
more
famous
festivals,
people
weren’t obnoxiously drunk and making fools of themselves. People walked around, chatted with friends, and celebrated. This festival was all about good clean fun, and it felt wonderful.
Diving into Barbarossa Wine at Fattoria Paradiso I’ve been to lots of wineries in my life—and a few stand high above the rest. Some have the most breathtaking surroundings; some feed you a beautiful
for the Barbarossa wine, which is only grown in this region. Oh, and on top of that, peacocks frolicked around the grounds. It was as interesting an experience as it was delicious, and I loved my visit.
lunch in the heart of the countryside; some invite you as friends and serve the best cured meats EVER. I have a new one to add to that list: Fattoria Paradiso. Not only were we welcomed with open arms by a host of characters, we were also fed tantalizing history. Artists traveled far and wide to create artwork for the labels, and there are wines in the cellar dating back to World War I. One of Fellini’s favorite wines is from here, and he demanded it frequently. People traveled far and wide
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Off The Beaten Track in Cesena
by roberta parisi browsingitaly.com
I
t’s common knowledge that the best way to discover a city is having a local by your side. Honestly, I am not a native Cesenate, but after living here for 20 years, I think that I can be considered one. I got to know this city by growing up here, and going to places and doing the things that locals do. Real Romagnoli passed on their view of Cesena to me and now I’ll do my best to offer you a brief and enjoyable guide to the city. Cesena is located in the northeast of Italy, in the region of Emilia Romagna, south of Bologna and Ravenna and west of Rimini. You can easily get here from these cities by car or train in less than an hour. Cesena was founded during the Roman Empire alongside one of the most important roads of the time, the Via Emilia, which connects Rimini to Piacenza even to this day. On this road, Romans built a stronghold every 20 kilometers—that was the distance that a Roman soldier could walk in one day—and Cesena was one of these stronghold. Here are some sights not to miss when visiting Cesena.
biblioteca malatestiana Cesena flourished and prospered during the Middle Ages under the Malatesta family. They built two of the symbols that represent the city today. The most important one is the Biblioteca Malatestiana (Malatestian Library); it’s included in the Memory of the World Programme Register by UNESCO in 2005 thanks to the perfect preservation of its structure and its manuscripts. Before being used as a library, it was a friar’s convent, so it looks like a church. The central nave is outlined by tall
white columns on each side, which are in contrast to the red of cotto tiles of the floor and the green of the plaster. These were the colors of the Malatesta family.
rocca malatestiana The other symbol of Cesena is the Rocca Malatestiana , which overlooks the city centre from the Colle Garampo. It is surrounded by Parco della Rimembranza (Park of Recollection), a verdant green garden on different levels, where children can joyfully play on sunny spring days—I have some good memories myself. In 2012, a little restaurant opened just at the foot of the Maschio, the biggest tower of the castle. The owners offer traditional food, such us piadina with cold cuts or with rucola and squacquerone, and fresh drinks. In addition, during summer evenings, it hosts many events such as concerts or outdoor movies. The ancient access to the Rocca is a fabulous staircase that starts exactly in the main square, Piazza del Popolo. The steps have a particularly reduced thickness because during the Middle Ages, the staircase was used by knights
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on horses. Tip: Next to the staircase, there is a loggia where you’ll find the Tourist Information Office.
Fontana Masini
city was a bishop. A few meters from the Cathedral there is an interesting building that reminds us of this period, Palazzo del Ridotto, where you can see the sculpture of Pope Pius VI Braschi, who was actually born in Cesena.
teatro allesandro bonci
In the middle of the square there is a big marble fountain, Fontana Masini, named after the architect that invented it in 1588. The legend says that the fountain was so beautiful that inhabitants of neighboring towns were so jealous that Francesco Masini’s hands were cut off in order to prevent him from creating other monuments similar to that. Piazza del Popolo is particularly lovely on Wednesday and Saturday mornings when a big open air market takes place and the square becomes vibrant and full of life.
Shopping Cavour
along
Corso
For those who love shopping, Corso Cavour is the road to see. At the beginning of the road, you’ll find the Barriera, the ancient entrance gate to the city centre. Today, the Barriera is used by the locals as a meeting point for their Saturday afternoon city strolls. Tip: To enjoy one of the best pizza al taglio (sliced pizza) in town, head to the nearby Pizzeria Barriera.
Last but not least, Cesena is well known for hosting one of the theaters with the best acoustics in Europe: the Teatro Alessandro Bonci, which is really worth a visit especially for its wonderful interiors and frescoes. Nightlife Tip: Next to Teatro Bonci you’ll find a smaller theatre, Teatro Verdi, that during the weekends becomes a popular disco. In addition to that, in the area surrounding the two theaters, there are many bars and pubs that offer a wide variety of drinks and cocktails, making it a fabulous place to enjoy a great night out with friends.
cathedral of cesena Not to miss is also the Cathedral of Cesena dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. For some decades Cesena was part of the Papal States and the first Malatesta who ruled the
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Intrigued by Forli & cesena? learn more about Emilia Romagna’s welcoming towns: • Time To Get Cultural In Forlì • Artful Italy: Discovering Wildt In Forlì • Pasta Making At Casa Artusi – Forlimpopoli • Learning To Make Pasta In Italy • How To Make Fresh Pasta • Wine Tasting In Bertinoro • Snapshot From Bertinoro • Crossing The Rubicon In Savignano, Bees And Bikes In San Mauro Pascoli • Biblioteca Malatestiana In Cesena • The Teglie Di Montetiffi
•拜 师 学 艺 意 大 利 面 •【 意 大 利 】 天 堂 酒 庄 的 美 酒 与 玫 瑰
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rimini at a glance A whimsical backdrop for local director Federico Fellini’s early films, Rimini is now Europe’s largest beach resort. With a seafront stretching nearly nine miles and a slew of bars, clubs and restaurants, it can be easy to forget that just behind this idyllic Mediterranean beach town lies Rimini’s charming old quarter. Inside this historic district, worn cobblestone streets help create an old world atmosphere around Piazza Cavour and its main center piece Palazzo Podesta. The darling of Rimini’s architecture, though, is Tempio Malatestiano. Originally built as a Franciscan church, it was converted in the 14th century by the renowned Florentine architect, Leon Battista Alberti, into one of the country’s most impressive Renaissance monuments. Ironically, the work, which was commissioned by Sigismondo Malatesta—considered by many to be one of the most evil and crazed men of his time—was condemned by Pope Pius II for being a “temple of devil-worshipers.”
don’t miss: 1. The historical city centre of Rimini Photo by Thetravelbunny.com
2. Sunrise at the beach in Rimini
3. Piadina Riminese
4. Valmarecchia and the village of Santarcangelo di Romagna Photo by Greattravelpictures.com
Photo by Acooknotmad.com
Photo by Erindesantiago.com
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Getting there: by car: From Bologna take the Motorway A 14 direction to Ancona or SS9 Via Emilia direction to Rimini. From Ancona take Motorway A 14 direction to Bologna. For more info visit the Motorway website: www.autostrade.it.
by train: There are regional train connections departing from Bologna every 30 minutes and from Ravenna and Ancona every hour. To see train schedules and connections for all the train stations in the region as well as other Italian destinations, visit the Italian railway website: www.trenitalia.it.
by plane: Flights arrive and depart regularly from the Bologna Airport. For more information, visit www.bologna-airport.it and www.riminiairport.com.
Piacenza
Parma
Ferrara
Reggio Emilia Modena
Ravenna
Bologna Faenza ForlĂŹ
Cesena
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Rimini
time travel In Rimini: From Ancient Romans To Modernity by norbert figueroa globotreks.com
The Arch of Augustus
The Tiberius Bridge.
B
eyond the thriving and bustling beachfront of Rimini, there’s a city, that while small, holds a historical legacy that spans from the Roman times
until today. Since the founding of the first Roman colony in 268 B.C., every period has left its mark in Rimini in one way or another. Even though Rimini was the most damaged town after Montecassino during WWII, it still conserves many traces of its interesting past, scattered throughout the town and intertwined between different (and often non compatible ideologically) times. These are the three major eras you will find while walking through the streets of Rimini.
The Roman times The golden jewel of the Roman times is the Tiberius Bridge. This bridge marks the beginning of the Aemilian Way or Via Emilia (back then the cities were settled every 20 kilometers along the way because that was the distance a Roman soldier could walk in a day) and it is a testament
to the superb engineering of the ancient Romans. It was built between 14 A.D. (the reign of Augustus) and 21 A.D. (the reign of Tiberius, hence thename). The bridge has survived for almost 2,000 years of continuous use, including the time of severe bombing during World War II. The Arch of Augustus is another piece not to miss in Rimini. Located on the opposite side to the town from the bridge, the Arch of Augustus is the oldest surviving Roman triumphal arch, dating from 27 B.C. As the name can says, the arch was built to celebrate Emperor Augustus. When you stand in front of it, you will notice all the stone details (and the artistry of the era) that still survive. Among them are the divinities of Jupiter and Apollo (facing away from the city) and Neptune and Rome (facing inwards)—all represented and encased in oval ornaments. They all represent the greatness of Rome and Augustus’ power. The Surgeon’s House is considered to be a mini-Pompei,
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since it has well all the instruments and furniture of this doctor’s surgery very well preserved. After a barbarian attack, fire caused the walls of the house to collapse inwards, thus preserving the items as seen today. Among the items is the most complete collection of surgical instruments as well as walls floors, door hinges, medicine bottles, a desk and more. And last but not least (of the Roman times, that is) is the Roman Amphitheatre. Back then (2nd century A.D.) it could accommodate up to 12,000 spectators. It was erected alongside the ancient coastline and had
Malatesta Temple
To its side you will see Arengo Palazzo, built in 1204, with Ghibelline battlements and an arcade. This was the place where matters of public government were decided. Next to it is Palazzo del Podestá, built in 1330. And opposite is the only surviving monument from the 17th century: the statue of Pope Paul V (1614), which attests to the papal domination of the time. On the end of the square, there’s the Galli Theatre (1857), designed by Luigi Poletti in a neoclassical style. In the center The pinecone fountain at Piazza Cavour with the Galli Theatre in the background. you’ll see a fountain with a pinecone on the top, Fontana della Pigna. Originally it had a statue two orders of porticoes with 60 arcades. Today, there’s not of St. Paul on top of it, but for some reason, in 1809 the much to see since it is mostly ruined, but its design was pinecone replaced it. But, as history tells, Leonardo not too far from the famous Coliseum and other roman DaVinci used to love the sound of this fountain. amphitheaters we know today. Along Via IV Novembre you will find a temple with an The Middle Ages and interesting story behind it: the Malatesta Temple. This Renaissance temple was built during the Renaissance (1450), but contrary to the typical notions of the time of giving glory Piazza Cavour is one of the two central squares of Rimini only to God, this temple also glorifies a man namedd and it was the heart of the city during the medieval times.
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Sigismondo Pandolfo Malatesta, was never finished – leaving that the lord of the city. Sigismondo interesting asymmetrical shape we had an affair with Isotta Degli see today. Inside, there are a series Atti, who first was his mistress of small side chapels with different and then his third and final wife, religious scenes. so he had the idea of building the The Church of St. Augustine is temple as a mausoleum for his the place to go to admire some wife and himself (still buried there beautiful 14th-century frescos to this day). The original design painted by masters of the Rimini was in gothic style and not what Squaquerone Prosciutto Crudo and Squaquerone school, which curiously were not you see today. Somewhere along Fresh Cheese Piadina discovered until 1916 when an the way Sigismondo made sure to “revamp” the temple by designing earthquake destroyed the stucco and its white marble façade with the best architect of the frescos created during the 18th century, as well as scenes time—Leon Battista Alberti. Unfortunately, the building of the life of St. John the Evangelist and Virgin Mary.
The modern times Let’s start the modern times with something lite… the art of eating gelatos and piadinas. This is nothing new in Italy, but it is a must, especially Rimini. Once you’re satisfied beyond pleasure, you can head to Piazza Tre Martiri. In reality this plaza is from the Roman times, but the name it has today is in honor of three partisans who died in 1944—hanged by the retreating Nazis at the end of World War II. But, before the horrors of WW II, this plaza marked the meeting point of the Cardo and Decumanus (the two main streets in Roman times), and
And now, last but not least, there’s the City Museum. Here
it is where the roman forum was located.
historical buildings that are well worth seeing.
is a record of Rimini’s history from ancient Roman times to modern art. Everything from mosaics, amphorae, tiles, kilns, to renaissance paintings and graphic art of the 20th century. One good thing about Rimini is that most (if not all) of its important sights are well labeled, with a brief history, and are also routed according to the era they belong. So, in addition to these samples I showed, there are many more
Piazza Tre Martiri
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Ponte di Tiberio – Bridging the Centuries by suzanne courtney thetravelbunny.com
T
After eating our way through Bologna, the food capital of Italy, Kathryn from Travel with Kat and I took the one hour train journey
Rimini’s Centro Storico for a quick exploration before
down to Rimini. There we met up with our fellow
caught my attention was the ancient Bridge of Tiberius
bloggers, Erin and Norbert, and arranged to head into
or Ponte di Tiberio at the end of Via Corso d’Augusto.
sundown. Rimini’s pretty old town has a number of notable historic structures, but the one that really
Ponte di Tiberio dates back to 21 A.D. Can you believe that this bridge is almost 2,000 years old? It’s one of the best preserved bridges from the Roman period and being such an old soldier, it is a bridge with baggage. In 14 A.D., the Emperor Augustus ordered that a bridge be built over the River Marecchia, which would ensure that Via Emilia, one of the Roman Empires’ five most important roads, could
continue its planned route north—the bridge marks the start of Via Emilia. Seven years later in 21 A.D., under the rule of new Emperor Tiberio, the bridge was completed. An inscription on the inner parapet tells as “given by both emperors.” The bridge can also be referred to by its Latin name as Ponte d’Augusto.
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construction of the Ponte di Tiberio Built entirely from white Istrian limestone, the Doric style bridge has five arches and is 70 metres long, showcasing the technical expertise of the Romans. They built the bridge without separating the foundations of the individual pillars thereby creating a solid structure that has stood both the test of time and attempts by both man and nature to destroy it. Alive with history Tiberio has survived earthquakes, floods and wartime attacks and escaped intact from the 551 war between the Goths and Byzantines.
More recently
during WWII, it was the only bridge
in this small fishing village are painted with colourful
over The Marecchia to survive destruction attempts by
frescos and murals depicting the life and works of film
the Germans on their retreat from the Battle of Rimini.
director Federico Fellini, who was born in Rimini.
The bridge connects Rimini city centre with the more historic downtown of Borgo San Giuliano. The houses
There are also some lovely little restaurants and bars where we enjoyed our first piadinas in Rimini—a filled flat bread originating from the Emilia Romagna region.
construction of the Ponte di Tiberio The water flowing beneath the bridge today forms part of Rimini’s marina, the River Marecchia was rerouted some years ago to prevent flooding. The bridge is still used by both pedestrians and traffic; though heavy vehicles are now forbidden. The narrow raised walking slabs on either side of the road are worn smooth and shiny, and it’s rare that there’s not some sort of vehicle using the bridge at any one time. In 1885 the bridge became a national monument. I hope this beautiful bridge that’s stood the test of time is still standing in another thousand years to come.
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Piadina recipe: Cooking piadina and crescione in Rimini by KATHRYN BURRINGTON travelwithkat.com
I
had never been to this part of Italy before and it was fantastic to discover such beautiful scenery. It is a little wilder and more rugged than the gentle flowing
now as it was then. Today, it can be found in homes, restaurants and street stalls throughout the region.
hills of its more famous neighbour, Tuscany.
During our day out in the hills of Rimini we were treated to
culinary heart of italy
near the little village of Gemmano. We made crescione, a
a cooking lesson at a delightful inn, Locanda di Onferno,
With its many wonderful ancient towns, stunning
type of the piadina, with their superb chef, Maria.
medieval cities and breathtaking scenery, Emilia
How piadina is made varies a little from town to town,
Romagna is the culinary heart of Italy. It is the birthplace
village to village, and home to home, but we were shown a
of numerous pastas, including the tortellini of Bologna
traditional recipe with a healthy twist in that the lard that
and many other well-known specialities like prosciutto di
is found in an authentic list of ingredients was replaced
Parma and Modena’s balsamic vinegar, to name but two.
with olive oil. At this inn they use an old variety of sweet
Rimini, itself, is home to the ancient flatbread piadina,
red wheat called Gentil Rosso, which grows in the hills of
which dates back to the Romans and is just as popular
Montefetro, to make the flour used for the piadina.
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Locanda di Onferno’s Piadina Recipe What you’ll need (serves 4): •
2¼ lbs or 1 kg unbleached flour
•
a little extra flour to use on the work surface
•
A heaped teaspoon of salt
•
200ml olive oil
•
Water
How to make it: 1. Make a mound out of the flour and form a large well in the centre of the mound. 2. Pour the oil and salt into the well. 3. Slowly mix the oil and flour together while adding some water, little by little. 4. Roll into a ball and knead energetically for about 7 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic. 5. Divide into 10 round balls, cover with a cloth and leave to stand for at least half an hour. (At this point you can set some aside and keep in the fridge for up to a week for cooking later if you do not need them all now.) 6. With a little flour on the work surface take each ball, flatten it slightly, then roll out, giving it a quarter turn after each roll so that you end up with a round flat “pancake” just a few millimetres thick. 7. Cook the piadina in a hot skillet for 3 to 5 minutes, until it is speckled brown. 8. Serve with the filling of your choice and fold into a sandwich. Local Variations: How thick the piadina should be varies depending on where you are in Emilia Romagna, in some places it should be so thin that it is almost translucent. Some use milk instead of water and another variation uses part water and part white wine. You can also add a little honey to give the piadina an amber hue.
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Crescione - How to make a stuffed variation of piadina: 1. Make the dough and roll it out as above. 2. Place your stuffing on half the of the dough and fold it over. 3. Use a fork to pinch round the curved edge sealing in the filling. 4. Cook as with the piadina making sure the filling is heated through.
FILLINGS: Traditional piadina fillings include cold cuts such as prosciutto di Parma or salami with salad leaves such as rocket, local Romagna cheeses or grilled vegetables. In more recent times, they are also served with sweet fillings such as Nutella. My crescione was stuffed with a delicious local sausage meat and herbs. Are you hungry yet?
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Want More rimini? learn more about Emilia-Romagna’s sun drenched coast: • Rimini: Eat, Drink, Kitesurf and Sunbathe • You’ll Find Me In Rimini! • Two Faces Of Rimini • Party On Italy’s Seaside: Rimini And Riccione • Ponte Di Tiberio In Rimini: One Of Italy’s Oldest Roman Bridges • Rimini: The Other Side Of Italy • Borgo San Giuliano Rimini • A Close-Up Look At The Grand Hotel Rimini • La Notte Rosa Sunrise In Rimini • Sunrise in Rimini, Italy • Rimini Remembered • Base Camp Rimini: Three Easy Day Trips • To The Beach – A Trip To Rimini • Fun With Taboo From Black Eyed Peas At Molo Street Parade Rimini • La Dolce Vita • International Street Buskers Festival In Pennabilli • Spa Day In Rimini • Artisti In Piazza In The Village Of Pennabilli • Medieval Village Of Petrella Guidi In Italy • The Village Of San Leo • Stamperia Marchi In Santarcangelo • Santarcangelo Di Romagna • Rimini’s Golden Hour • Living La Dolce Vita • Dancing Until Dawn In Rimini • Biking Rimini To Verucchio • Autumn In Emilia-Romagna • San Marino And Emilia Romagna – A Journey In Italy’s Hidden Treasures • European Foods to Discover: Piadina • 12 Reasons to Love Emilia Romagna • Emilia Romagna: Captured Beauty on Instagram
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• Sometimes A Couple’s Gotta Relax: Rimini Terme • Olive Oil Tasting In The Land Of Taste • The Smallest Republic
• Ab An Den Strand – Ein Trip Nach Rimini • Notte Rosa Urlaub In Rimini • Pink Power Bei Der Notte Rosa • Ein Wochenende In Rimini Mit Mehr Als Nur Meer • Eine Postkarte Aus Rimini
• 25 Coisas Que Eu Amei Na Emilia Romagna • Direto Da Emilia Romagna Na Itália: Milano Marittima, Rimini e Ravenna
•【 意 大 利 】 悠 闲 一 日 ， 里 米 尼 的 三 个 小 镇 •【 意 大 利 式 夏 天 】 大 排 档 ， 吃 馅 饼 ， 唠 家 常 。
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meet the bloggers BLOG-VILLE.COM NICHOLAS MONTEMAGGI
Nick is the co-founder and project manager of BlogVille at the Emilia Romagna Tourist Board. Since 2012 he is helping travel bloggers from the world to discover Emilia Romagna.
globotreks.com norbert figueroa
Professionally trained as an architect and naturally educated as a traveler. My goal is simple, to travel and to make travel the most rewarding experience.
beersandbeans.com bethany salvon & randy Kalp
Globetrotting photographer/journalist couple that loves unique travel experiences. Creators of the Speakeasy Hidden Pocket Scarf and fans of Pinterest (8M followers on our travel boards). Wander with us.
solotravelerblog.com janice waugh
Janice is an author, blogger, speaker & traveler. Read her blog, Solo Traveler, and her book The Solo Traveler’s Handbook. See also @TravelHandbooks
acooknotmad.com tim & Nat harris
Food travels guided by a chef ’s stomach and a photographer’s eye. Join us for a taste of real food, authentic people and true stories. -197-
meet the bloggers timetravelturtle.com michael turtle
With everything on his back and all the time in the world… travel writer and beer lover.
dreameurotrip.com dj yabis
The art of the fabulous eurotrip: music festivals, fashion, food trips and unique travel experiences.
wherecaroeats.com caroline cloutier
Caroline Cloutier is a French Canadian Food & Travel Writer currently living in Spain. She travels the world in search of the most tasting food and the best travel destinations.
thetravelbite.com rachelle lucas
TV Host. Writer. Videographer. Travelista. Lover of coffee. Check out my site http://TheTravelBite.com . I also tweet for @VFDiningInsider.
getpalmd.com sara näse
Petrolhead, car travel fashion life blogger / freelance writer, hungry for extreme sports – and good food of course. -198-
meet the bloggers nomadbiba.com bianca Bauza
Born in London, raised in Caracas, studied in Montreal and just left Barcelona to pursue a full on nomadic lifestyle. Follow me and see where my journey takes me!
theplanetd.com dave bouskill & debra corbeil
Award winning Adventure Couple, travel blogging and photographing their way around the world at ThePlanetD. We’ve hit 80+ Countries.
aviatorsandacamera.com kirsten alana
Travel photographer and writer tweeting mostly mobile tech, startups, food & culture.
budgettraveller.org kash bhattacharya
I Blog at BudgetTraveller.org and Europebudgetguide.com Creator of the Guide to Luxury Hostels of Europe. Follow #luxuryhostels for more info.
news.motorbiker.org mike werner
Dutch Motorcycle & Travel Journalist, writing in English, living in Normandy, France
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meet the bloggers aliadventures.com ali garland
Eternal travel junkie. Writer. I’ve made it to all 7 continents before my 30th bday. American expat in Germany.
twooregonians.com Ted & Bethany rydmark
Landscape architect and social worker journey around the globe documenting food systems and social services, people, places, pictures and stories of life on the road.
velvetescape.com keith jenkins
Founder and Publisher of the Velvet Escape luxury travel blog. Inspired by Travel, nature, people, music, sports, architecture, airplanes and photography.
adventurouskate.com Kate mcculley
At 26, I quit my job to travel the world alone. I spent six months in Southeast Asia and turned my travel blog into a full-time business. Today, I travel full-time, going anywhere that sounds wacky, beautiful or interesting.
keane.li keane li
Travel writer with @gogobot; Contributor to @PerformerMag; Frontguy of @festizioband; SF Italian Culture Examiner; Human -200-
meet the bloggers anitasfeast.com anita breland & tom fakler
Expats and avid “boomer� travelers, we have lived and worked on four continents. Based in Switzerland, we are always on the lookout for new adventures, new cultures and unfamiliar foods.
travelwithkat.com kathryn burrington
Travel photographer and writer discovering new countries, cultures and cuisines.
thetravelbunny.com suzanne courtney
Explorer and travel blogger that can be found nosing around odd and interesting places in Sussex and afar. Enjoys tennis, golf, skiing. Snap happy and works in travel.
browsingitaly.com roberta parisi
Roberta is a freelance translator and writer. She is also a contributor for BrowsingItaly.com.
fourjandals.com cole burmester
I have been wearing out my jandals on a journey around the world since 2009. I love all types of adventures that allow me to step outside my comfort zone, including triathlons, surfing, skiing, snowboarding, diving and mountain biking. -201-
acknowledgements: art cities of emilia romagna Photo credits:
Cover Photo: Piacenza: Parma: Reggio Emilia: Modena: Bologna: Ferrara: Ravenna: Faenza: ForlĂ and Cesena Rimini:
Dave Bouskill/ThePlanetD.com Norbert Figueroa/Globotreks.com Bethany Salvon/Beersandbeans.com DJ Yabis/Dreameurotrip.com Bethany Salvon/Beersandbeans.com Bethany Salvon/Beersandbeans.com Bethany Rydmark /Twooregonians.com Emilia Romagna Tourism Board Sara Näse/Getpalmd.com Bethany Rydmark/Twooregonians.com Yvonne Zagermann/Justtravelous.com
art cities of emilia romagna ebook designed by:
Bethany Salvon/BeersandBeans.com
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