13 minute read
A woman's wine-work is never done
Many vintners, cellar masters, and especially wine connoisseurs are women. Women do a major portion of the work in many enterprises. Their work spans the entire wine-making process: from the vineyard to the wine cellar to the enjoyment of the wine at table. We've spoken with some of the women active in this fi eld.
Especially in family-run wineries, women have long been equal partners, as Marlies Pohl Abraham (depicted) of the Abraham Winery in St. Michael explains.
Erika Call, vacationing "down on the farm" at the "Call am See" "Every season has its own charm," says Marlene Ausserer Niedermayr while speaking of the wintertime, when the snow-covered vineyards are in a deep sleep. Then she tells of the springtime, when everything comes to life, and the summer, when Nature comes into her own and the grapevines burst into growth. "But the autumn has a magic all its own. That's when everything is building up to the grape harvest," says the 33-year-old full of enthusiasm. At the Gandberg Vineyards above St. Michael, she and her husband operate the Thomas Niedermayr Bio-Wine Estate. It requires a lot of hard work, but they are committed to principles of natural, pesticide-free viticulture. They produce natural wines – with spontaneous fermentation, no clarification, no filtration. Everything remains natural, from the vineyard to the bottle. The use of fungus-resistant grape varieties is the foundation. "Mother Nature supplies all of the answers to our problems," explains the vintner when discussing working and living in this "wonderful – if underappreciated – niche." She feels that they should "go out and tell their story." It requires a lot of organizational work, too. Their target segment: Gourmets with an appreciation of natural products. Ausserer explains that they will discover the "vitality inherent in natural wine."
Wine needs time "We always have to start over again," remarks Marlies Pohl Abraham of the Abraham Winery in St. Michael. She is full of anticipation for the coming harvest – but the bottling process is equally thrilling. "That's when it gets real." That's because wine needs time. It takes years. And you reap the rewards only at the finish line.
The year 2022 will be another new start for the Abrahams when they fill their first Sauvignon. In 2023, their first Chardonnay will be bottled. "That's when we'll finally know if our confidence has paid off," says the vivacious vintner who can express her creativity especially in marketing and sales. The 44-year-old finds making her own wine a "life's dream and a life's commitment." Pohl links her special passion and sense of responsibility to the 70-year-old Pinot Blanc pergolas. "We are the fourth generation here," she emphasizes. She appreciates the connection to her forbears and is not reluctant to face the challenge posed by the old grapevines. "The goal is clear: Wines with a strong, natural character."
The common denominator of Eppan wines "It's the clarity and elegance of a white wine… The simplicity of the Vernatsch which constantly invigorates me." It's statements like that which show how very committed Erika Call is to Eppan's wines. South Tyrol's largest wine-making community boasts many premium wines. "They are allowed to mature naturally, not artificially," Call explains, and speaks of the special pleasure of drinking a great wine. For her part, she prefers a glass of Vernatsch. "It's uncomplicated and eminently drinkable." Erika Call is a vintner and serves as chairwoman for "Eppan Wine," an umbrella group of local wine, sparkling wine, and schnaps producers launched in 2019. "I was especially enthused by the fact that all of the wineries, cooperatives, and individuals have come together under a single roof," says the 53-year-old. Their symbol serves as a platform for joint activities. WHEN IT COMES TO INFORMATION SOURCES, THE SPECTRUM EXTENDS FROM TRADITIONAL WINE GUIDES TO THE INTERNET.
Katja Bicciato, St. Michael-Eppan Winery
Eppan Wein
Eppan – South Tyrol's largest wine-growing community – is famed for its premium wines. The "Eppan Wein" trademark represents a range of wine producers, sparkling winemakers, and distilleries. It is where connoisseurs and winemakers, guests, participating businesses, the tourism association, and the community meet to exchange ideas and work together: www.eppanwein.it
Women are said to have more-sensitive tastebuds than men, and thus make better sommeliers. The expert Marlene Ausserer Niedermayr from the Thomas Niedermayr Bio-Wine Estates has some interesting insights about wine.
The decision to offer quality wines by the glass, too, was often influenced by forward-thinking women like Elke Morandell Schwarzer of the Paulserhof in St. Pauls, who serves fine wines here in this historical wine cellar.
Call's "Vacation down on the farm" set-up at Lake Monticolo is surrounded by grapevines. The harvest is sent to three different wine-making cooperatives – not because she's indecisive, no! "The location of the various different parcels are the explanation," she says. As a member, she has obligations to three customers. Payment is based on quantity and quality. And thus, the moment of harvesting is decisive for Call: "It is very fulfilling to see how the grapes are harvested and the vineyard gradually emptied of grapes. And it is very thrilling to see how the harvested grapes are graded." Call is the first and only woman on the Board of Directors of the St. Pauls Winery. She regrets that women in the wine industry still seem limited chiefly in the areas of presentation, marketing, and sales. But they do tremendous work there, too.
Even good wine needs good marketing At the St. Michael Winery, a strong and well-known brand is the basis. "We have wines that are so famous and in such demand that they are sold out in no time flat," reports Marketing Manager Katja Bicciato. That is true for "cult wines," too – for example the Schulthauser or the Sankt Valentin premium line. Complex and high-priced products demand creative marketing. "The task is to communicate why our wine has this level of quality and this price – and what makes it something special," according to the 29-year-old. The final consumer determines the demand up to the end. A cellar master with an affinity for media like Hans Terzer, an expert and the public face of the winery, is of course anything but averse to this. A wine-maker can also heighten his profile by showcasing his awards. But press work and trade journals, testimonials, and social media play an important role. "When it comes to information sources, the spectrum extends from traditional wine guides to the Internet," explains Bicciato. With a degree in economics and management, the elaboration of marketing strategies is no problem. And the sommelier course she took supplies the enological knowledge that is absolutely necessary in this sector. And her enthusiasm for wine as a natural product from her home community is the icing on the cake.
Wine suggestions and consulting as a hobby "In the last 15-20 years, women have contributed much to the success of the wine industry," Kathrin Oberhofer says with enthusiasm. For the last 18 years, she has run the wine bar and the Pillhof Restaurant in Frangart. Her efforts have borne fruit: Both guests and wine-makers are lining up there. She was unafraid to offer high-quality wines from the very beginning: "If asked, I'll pour a glass of any of our wines; it's not necessary to buy a whole bottle. My guests appreciate that." Of the 700 labels she carries, Kathrin – she is so approachable that everyone calls her by her first name – knows every wine. "I've got a great memory!" And, of course, her training as a sommelier doesn't hurt, either. In contrast to earlier, she finds that today's customers are much more savvy – and that includes young people. And that's why she finds it so exciting when a guest claims to know little, and is thus "more open to my recommendations." The sommelier then feels right in her element.
UPON REQUEST, I'LL POUR A GLASS OF ANY OF OUR WINES. MY GUESTS APPRECIATE THAT.
Kathrin Oberhofer, Restaurant Pillhof Restaurant and Wine Bar
THE PRUNING OF THE GRAPEVINES IS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL AND ALSO MOST CHALLENGING MOMENT. IT'S WHEN THE CYCLE OF LIFE IS COMPLETED AND STARTS AGAIN.
Sylvia Rauch Lentsch, Klaus Lentsch Vineyards
The 45-year-old is also in demand as a professional consultant who provides other restaurant operators with expert advice with regards to their wine menus: "At present, sparkling wines and Pinot Noirs are experiencing an upswing."
The right wine for every dish "It doesn't matter how good a wine is if it isn't drunk," says Elke Morandell Schwarzer of the Paulserhof Inn in St. Pauls. There, she's in charge of service and the wine cellar and views herself as a link between producers and customers. One can choose from countless high-quality wines made by local producers in our wine cellar. And one can occasionally find rare vintages. For years, now, the Paulserhof has been serving South Tyrolean quality wines by the glass (decanted from 0.7-liter bottles). "That attracted a lot of scrutiny, and is now a firm part of our concept." Awards such as the 2013 South Tyrolean Prize for Wine Culture and for "Best Vernatsch Menu" demonstrate Morandell's commitment. She serves her guests simple but hearty dishes prepared by her husband, Stefan Schwarzer, and pours them "the right wine for every dish."
We buy only what we like ourselves Margot Rabensteiner Hintner carries 500 labels. For a quarter of a century, the Zur Rose Restaurant – located in the heart of St. Michael – has borne a Michelin Star. That's due in part to the creative culinary art of Herbert and Daniel Hintner, but also to Margot, the manager of service and wine. "Wine is emotion. It's fun. I buy only what tastes good to me, too," says the 64-year-old. A glance at the restaurant's extensive wine menu proves this: There's not a single rosé to be found – "Because I don't like rosés." But she is a fan of "sparkling wines, Riesling, and for special vintages." The restaurant is happy to serve wines by the glass. It's by taste that this professional bases her judgements and selects the wines – some of which are real rarities – for the wine cellar. The restaurant boasts 5,000 labels waiting for Rabensteiner to declare them ready to be served. She acquired her knowledge of wines as the daughter of a restaurant operator, at the age of 19, during Friday evening wine-tastings in an entirely male environment – and also during numerous wine trips. She shares this knowledge with the guests along with the given glass of wine.
Perseverance and training Stefanie Ebner Schwazer of the Vis à Vis wine and gourmet dining venue in St. Pauls, too, possesses an enormous and specialized knowledge of wines. The 49-year-old played a major role in the evolution of this family-operated wine bar into a gourmet paradise. Her guiding star: Wine and everything in harmony with it. Guests can choose from 600 labels. "We offer
When it comes to making wine recommendations, women often set the tone while men dominate in the kitchen: That's the situation at the "Zur Rose" in St. Michael, too, where Margot Rabensteiner Hintner pours her husband and award-winning chef Herbert Hintner some wine.
Even with a wine cellar boasting 600 labels of high-quality wine, Stefanie Ebner Schwazer of the Vis à Vis in St. Pauls never loses her way. Her vast library of wine knowledge helps her give her guests great recommendations.
about 30 of these wines by the glass. All the time," says the wine expert and gestures to the professional wine dispenser in a back corner of the time-honored premises from which a wide range of wines – including niche products – can be tapped. Her husband, Martin Schwazer, confirms that "she herself is a good sommelier." Wine trips and visits to wineries provide additional input – the kind that is indispensable for providing guests with top recommendations. And the trained accountant doesn't need written notes: "I have a visual memory." And she makes use of it whenever she has to select the proper wine. She refers to herself as a "Vernatsch woman" and is a fan of autochthonic varieties – but also of sparkling wines, Pinot Blanc, and unusual vintages. "There's a trend towards alcohol-free alternatives," says Ebner, referring to grape juices characterized as "sparkling."
A special relationship with wine Sylvia Rauch Lentsch of the Klaus Lentsch Vineyards in St. Pauls is a woman immersed in wine culture in numerous ways. The winery presents itself as an exhibition venue for wood cuts, for paintings, or as a stage for theatre performances and, over the years, has strengthened its position in this space. "The great thing is that even guests without much of an interest in wine often come here," is the way the boss explains her interactions with artists and visitors and the opportunity to make the wine bar, the cellars, or the inner courtyard accessible as a cultural space for people outside of the wine scene. The large steel and wooden barrels, the wine press, and stacks of wine crates form the background. Lentsch, who trained to become a bank clerk, is convinced that this can "leave behind a lasting impression that is conveyed to a wider world and is associated with the vineyards." She was involved in this business with her husband, Klaus Lentsch, from the very beginning. She was able to contribute her financial skills and took classes to expand her knowledge of the agricultural side of things. For her, the pruning of the grapevines is the most beautiful and also most challenging moment. It's when the year begins anew.
"Without wine, life loses its excitement"
The Greek poet Euripides had a deep understanding of the value of good wine, and would probably have thoroughly appreciated the prize-winning wines of the Klaus Lentsch Winery in St. Pauls.
Come take part in our weekly wine-tastings, and explore the diversity of our wines coming from the Upper Etsch, Unterland district, and Isarco Valley. Come and immerse yourself for a moment in our enchanting world of wines.
We'd love to have you join us and are looking forward to accompanying you on a journey of discovery:
Discover the world of an independent wine-grower
Every Wednesday at 4:30 p.m. and every Friday at 2:30 p.m. Duration: 1.5 hours; price: € 15 per person (only €7.5 with a WinePass).
Wine talk in a casual atmosphere
Every Saturday, starting at 11 a.m. Duration: 1.5 hours; price: € 20 per person (only €10 with a WinePass). Weingut Klaus Lentsch Reinspergweg 18/a 39057 St. Pauls | Eppan Phone: +39 0471 967 263 info@klauslentsch.eu www.klauslentsch.eu
