April- June 2012, Volume 1, Issue 1,

April – June 2012, 52 pages

RNI No. MAHENG13114/13/1/2012-TC Volume1, Issue1, `.100/-

TEXTILE Value Chain Cotton, Ginning, Ginner Interview

FIBER

Cotton @ commodity Market, Flax Damodar Group Interview

YARN Knitting by HOD of Sasmira College

FABRIC Technology in Merchandising

GARMENT

Bombay Rayon Interview S K I L L G A P A N A L Y S I S

C A R E E R = M E R C H A N D I S I N G

C O L L E G E S I N F O = S N D T

L E A R N I N G

SME’s Voice

RETAIL

Ancient Man Clothing: Natural Tree Leaves

Mill Fabric Clothing: Natural Fibers / Yarns

Hand Spun Natural Fiber Clothing :Cotton, Silk, Wool,

Handspun Clothing: Handloom

Mill Fabric Clothing: Manmade fibers, Synthetic yarns

Fashion Design: New Fashion Styles, Fashion Fabrics, Fashion Accessories

Textile Designs: New weave techniques, Different Finishes, New Dyeing process

Textile Industry Fashion Industry Ancillary Industry Substitutes

Value Added Textile Functional Clothing, Technical Textile, Nano Textiles, many more

………What’s Next ???

Vision: Minimize the Gap of Textile Industry Contributors.

Innovative Media and Information Company, India’s Dynamic, Creative, Youngest and fastestgrowing Media & Publication House in the Textile and Apparel Industry.

Man’s evolution taken their basic necessity Clothing (Kapda) to Luxury Brands. Today world have a different picture of Textile & Apparel industry. From where man started; it has come back to same: Man started clothing as (necessity) protection against nature, today new technology focusing towards functional Fabrics..!!!

We are introducing this magazine to prov ide more insight into entire Textile industry, effort to give Indian Textile Industry a Cutting Edge in Global Market. The Textile Value chain India’s Only Quarterly Guide to Textiles. Being a Guide, we are covering entire Value Chain of Industry.

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Editorial

TEXTILE Value Chain

A value chain is a chain of activities for a firm operating in a specific industry.

Products pass through all activities of the chain in order and at each activity the product gains some value.

Editor & Publisher Jigna Shah

Textile Industry is mix of Organized, Unorganized & Fragmented Business units. It has value chain actors and non actors which are directly or indirectly affecting industry. Chain from fiber to Garment, Garment to Retail. We will cover each chain member individually step by step.

Our effort in this magazine is to reduce and filling the gap among all textile contributor in the industry. We are covering entire Value chain area from Fiber; Yarn; Fabric; Garment; Retail. We had asked few contributors about gap and education requirement in industry, we had published few interview for more insights of industry contributors.

Human Resources, A resource, for which India is proud of…!! In Textile industry this resource is not much educated, not highly skilled, but fine skilled workers. No formal, technical institution, colleges focus on this industry, treating this industry as commodity. Lack of Focus in industry, lead lot of distance, Gap among human resources and Business units in India. Gap is due to non proper coordination and Communication, no medium for passage of information, Lack of Knowledge, many other aspects. Education is back bone of Quality Human Resource in industry, we had given analysis of Human skills requirement and gap in each sub-sector in textile industry.

Editorial Advisor Rajul Shah Associate Editor Tejal Mashkaria Ketan Mashkaria Advertisement Md. Tanweer (+91-9167165956) Subscription & Circulation Md. Tanweer (+91-9167165956) Graphic Designer Manoj Kumar Nimish Mashkaria COLUMNIST B.V. Doctor Sarita Raut

Learning is a lifelong process in human life. Learning process makes life more interesting, valuable, more “Human” and meaningful..!! We cover a series of Meaningful Learning articles which you will find important and interesting.

This compressive Quarterly Magazine, you will find more meaningful, informative and knowledgeable. Our effort is to Reshape textile industry and your life in New Positive and Growing Direction..!!

We are open for new ideas, expert opinions, and valuable critics about our magazine. Kindly send your feedback and suggestions for further improvement.

Best Regards, Jigna Shah Editor & Publisher All rights reserved worldwide, reproduction of any material from this publication in any manner including photocopying without the written permission of the publisher is prohibited and will be considered an infringement as per the law of the land. Caution Note : Although utmost care has been taken by the publishers, to incorporate correct information in the Textile Value Chain 1st edition. Company Name: shall not be liable for any error or incorrect information relating to the entries or omissions of the advertisement in this directory. Responsibility for any misrepresentation or error in ad content lies solely with the advertiser. All the Pictures, Logos and Text Content of the advertisement have been provided by the advertisers. Correspondence concerned with the product photographs or alleged infringement of any intellectual property, design or copyright, should be addressed directly to the advertiser and not the publisher.

Registered Office: Innovative Media and Information Company 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Gahtkopar (E), Mumbai-400075, MAH, India Tel: +91-22-21029342 Cell: +91-97694 42239 Email: innovativemedia012@gmail.com

Owner, publisher, printer and editor Ms. Jigna Shah printed & processed by her at Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, behind McDonald,Andheri Kurla road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai-400072, Maharashtra, India.

All rights reserved Worldwide, Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure present factual, accurate information supplied. All material supplied to be reliable or solely an opinion of authors. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith. Copyright 2012 by Textile Value chain.

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Contents Contents S.NO.

COMPANY NAME

PAGE NO.

1

Textile Value chain Analysis

4

2

FIBER: Natural Fiber: Cotton

8

3

Ginning Overview, by Textile Committee

10

4

Interview : Kishan Cotton Ginner

14

5

Cotton in Commodity Market

16

6

Flax Fiber Review

17

7

YARN : Overview

20

8

Interview: Damodar Thread

22

9

New Yarns

24

10

FABRIC: Knitting

25

11

GARMENT

27

12

Interview: Bombay Rayon

30

13

Exporter's Corner

32

14

SME corner

33

15

Skill gap Analysis in Textile Industry

35

16

Career Opportunity : Merchandising

40

17

Colleges Offering courses

41

18

Interview : Dr. Shilpa: SNDT College

42

19

Job Opportunity

44

20

Meaningful Learning

45

21

Artificial neural network

47

22

Trade exhibition in India

49

23

Highlights of Union Budget

50

24

Corporate Fun

51

25

Corporate Quiz

52

THE VALUE CHAIN IN TEXTILES

TEXTILE Value Chain

India’s Presence across the Value Chain

India is one of the few countries which have a presence across the entire value chain of the Textile and Apparel Industry.

Textile, a versatile basic necessity turns into a luxury brand having a long value chain, where some are direct actors of the chain and others are non value chain actors, which are also equally important. We will discuss both here in brief, later issues a broader spectrum.

Value Chain Actors INPUT SUPPLIERS

1. Farmers (Natural fibers like Cotton, Jute)

Farmers are backbone of Agriculture industry, and textile base started by agriculture: Natural fibers derived from plant, crops, trees etc.

Farmer’s rights are protected through federation, Government Organization, unions. In order to pursue alternative income, some farmers have been incorporated into fair trade markets and others have adopted organic practices and become certified in order to sell their product at higher prices. Other natural resources may also be used as inputs for weaving and other activities in the textile sub-sector, such as alternative fibers (sisal, bamboo, wild silk, natural dyes, etc.), but additional research is needed to provide recommendations for improved

April - June 2012

2. Petrochemicals for Polymer fibers

Petrochemical industry is relatively young - it did not start to take off until the 1940s. However, its origins go back to the 18th century when coal began to be mined and cheap energy became available. In the next century it was from gas works and coal tar could become an important source of chemicals. In Britain and Germany new industries sprang up making dyes, solvents and rubbers. Polymer fibers are a subset of man-made fibers, which are based on synthetic chemicals (often from petrochemical sources) rather than arising from natural materials by a purely physical process. These fibers are made of phenol-formaldehyde (PF), polyvinyl alcohol fiber (PVA) vinylon, polyvinyl chloride fiber (PVC) vinyon, polyolefins (PP and PE) olefin fiber, etc.

Easy-care clothing, carpets, curtains and furnishing fabrics are made from man-made fibres derived from petrochemicals.

3. Industrial Cotton Ginning

Cotton Ginning factories and associations play important role in textile and garment industry. While they note that they are at capacity in terms of meeting ex-

6

THE VALUE CHAIN IN TEXTILES port demand, they express serious concern regarding losses when selling at world commodity prices.

4. Small-Scale Cotton Ginning/ Spinning

A very limited number of processors are engaged in spinning cotton on a traditional cottage-industry basis.

Few businesses have performed small-scale experiments in sourcing handspun yarn, developed vertically integrated operations that include the processing of cotton, through to the finished value-added product with labor-intensive processes and with relatively low capital investments. This activity found venue for increasing income in rural areas and implementing appropriate technology practices. Many weavers expressed interest in being able to source raw materials directly from processors, particularly if it allowed them more choices in terms of dyes or fiber content (organic and/ or fair trade, etc.).

5. Industrial Spinning

Manufacturers of yarn sell their products both to distributors and weaving workshops in cases where a longterm purchasing agreement has been established. Due to the ever-increasing pricing pressures imposed on imported goods, Government has invested in a range of diversified income-generating activities in order to support their cash flow. These include: screen-printing (on imported apparel), weaving mops from waste fibers, importing synthetic thread, etc. They have also invested in direct marketing to end-users, employing their marketing team to promote their products directly to the weaving community. While serving as a survival technique, these activities are not necessarily in the best long-term interest of the company because they do not build on inherent strengths or comparative advantage, and are not able to achieve efficiencies due to insufficient domestic market demand.

6. Importers/Vendors

Importers and local retailers provide an essential supply of goods to the sub-sector which includes dyes (for yarn and imported fabrics), fabric (basin/jacquard weaves, commercial cloth for apparel, wax prints, etc.), yarn and thread, tools and equipment, and notions (manufactured zippers, clasps, etc. for finishing).

There are no protective measures supporting the price of finished goods from local firms.

WEAVERS

Majority of the weavers are engaged in their work either informally or with the backing of many more additional participants. Weaving activities may not be acknowledged by the statistics due to seasonal employment, migration, and informal employment. Many

April - June 2012

TEXTILE Value Chain

looms are produced locally, and located outdoors to accommodate the length of the traditional warp. Production is therefore weather-dependent and limited by the season. Informal weavers traditionally provide for the needs of special events and do not extend their efforts to markets outside and do not see a need to educate customers or invest in marketing activities.

However this demand is declining as more options become available in modern markets. Several weaving enterprises and associations have formalized their processes, and their workshop sites to provide more regular working conditions and consistent quality control. Most looms continue to be an evolved version of pit-looms, although floor looms have been adopted by few workshops, and some workshops have incorporated fly-shuttle handlooms to increase productivity.

Many workshops also convert the hand-woven fabric into home and fashion accessories, including an abundance of handbags and tabletop items.

Several weavers expressed interest in developing horizontal linkages to increase capacity in order to respond to larger orders and to buy inputs in bulk to reduce costs, but it is unclear if there is sufficient demand for such arrangements and if workshops can maintain consistent quality standards. Weaving studios sell their fabric to others for incorporation into leather trimmed products or finished home accessories or finish product collections themselves for on-site retail shops or retail buyers.

TEXTILE MANUFACTURE / PRODUCER / CONVERTER

Manufacturer include various Leading Actors and activities, including: formal and informal micro, small and medium-size enterprises, Corporate, independent designers, cooperatives, and nonprofit associations. This part of the value chain encompasses the processes of adding value to, or transforming unconverted fabric (e.g. dyed or woven cloth) finished/converted textile products (apparel, fashion accessories, upholstered furniture, etc.) to final end-users. While some actors hold distinct positions along the value chain (such as informal weavers, small dyeing units used as subcontractors), many operations often driven by design have incorporated embedded services into their internal operations, covering multiple functions in the chain ‘under one roof’. Examples include fashion designers who integrate weaving, printing, and pattern-making into their workshop for prĂŞt-a-porter apparel, and interior designer-weavers who have established vertically-integrated production that includes custom dyeing yarn, furniture framing for upholstered goods, all the way to direct retail sales, as part of their businesses. Many of these businesses are owned and operated by women

7

THE VALUE CHAIN IN TEXTILES who have established national and international reputations for their work.

TEXTILE TREATMENT ACTORS

Textile treatment includes chemicals, dyes, batik, printing etc.A number associations, SME companies are involved in treating predominantly imported fabrics, including such practices as dyeing and hand calendering basin/jacquard textiles for local formal apparel such as resist dyeing (tie-up and batik) or embroidering fabric for fashion and home accessories, crochet, and screenprinting for local consumption and high-fashion. These businesses many times sell their material to tailors, while fashion studios often maintain internal dyeing processes or subcontract for custom orders.

DESIGNER-ENTREPRENEURS

Indian designers working in high fashion, home décor, and fashion accessories, play an essential role in textile sub-sector, linking market demands to production and international design sensibilities. Most designers manage their own boutiques and maintain proprietary workshops with in-house production capacity in weaving and other material treatment processes (tailoring, dyeing, embroidery, etc.) with established agreements for specific outsourcing needs. They are heavily engaged in the promotion of Indian design and the development of their industries, and have established several noteworthy venues such as fashion reviews and participated in international exhibitions.

MARKET PLAYERS Wholesalers/Retailers

At first glance the market is dispersed and divided.

Traditional Wholesalers have many clusters across India Eg. M.J. Market in Mumbai. Recently Organized Wholesalers presence in India due to FDI interest in this segment eg. Metro Cash and Carry. , Retailers have 2 segments, Traditional retailers and Organized Retailer which flourished from last decades. eg. Big Bazar. Most relationships along the textile value chain, wholesaler and retailer functions overlap. Many producers retail their own product lines directly and retailers who stock a variety of products (such as hotel shops) commonly buy direct from producers at ex-factory prices.

Exporters

Many producers export value-added products directly to international clients Few independent exporters have established their own international clientele and others act as an arm of a foreign importer, providing embedded services to the value chain, such as preparing orders for shipment, providing quality assurance on location and prior to shipping, and implementing new designs requested by the buyer. Individuals also export on a regular basis to world developed as well as

April - June 2012

TEXTILE Value Chain

developing countries. These direct export operations may be due to conditions that leave no room for the cost of agents, which typically average an additional 5-15%.

AGENTS/SHIPPERS

They are intermediaries commonly known as “Transitaires” who play an essential role in export, processing export forms and clearing shipments through Customs, Many exporting producers acknowledge indiscernible and complicated logistics (e.g. related to Customs), and the cost of some of these transactions (formal and informal), but accept the procedures and the intermediary as a necessary part of the export.

IMPORTERS

Importers of textile products have proactively sought to flatten the distribution chain by bringing items direct to retail due to the FOB costs of finished goods.

These importers often provide embedded services to designers and producers by guiding new product development, providing trend and market information, and assisting with shipping logistics. Many invest in sourcing visits in order to make product selections and merchandising suggestions directly.

Non Value Chain Actors Government:

Government plays major role in development in any industry. Especially whole textile is more semi government industry. Government policy related to textile and garment is not only earn foreign income abut give employment to large population. But industry is not happy with movement of Govt. policy in textile, as per industry view: proper education, resources, research and development is not properly focused in the sector as compare to other sectors.

Educational Institution

Educational institute’s plays major role in whole chain, as skilled labor is produced in educational factory. So course content should be matched and updated with industry requirement. Students to employee journey require soft skills, technical knowledge, industry exposure, many more. This all needs will be fulfilled by educational industry.

Associations/ Cooperatives/ NGOs

Institutional interests are several regional and national forums beyond governmental agencies and chambers, including a national membership association Textile activities are often supported through or implemented in collaboration with NGOs in efforts to improve economic conditions and employment opportunities in India.

8

THE VALUE CHAIN IN TEXTILES International Institutions

Aid to textile industry, an international non-profit organization, could not perform a comprehensive survey of all international programs operating in India with plausible links to the artisan textile sector as part of this assessment. However, there appears to be several initiatives offering services to the textile sector, but with a primary focus on apparel/fashion and industrial production. Other services are provided in human resource development, internet and technology development, agriculture, natural resource management, cultural preservation and the arts, and community development – there are possibilities for collaboration within each of these focus areas.

Macro Environment factors influencing Textile Industry The infrastructure and conditions which comprise the enabling environment in India provide both support and constraints to economic growth.

Energy

All actors along the value chain are affected by poor quality energy and weekly power cuts which dramatically increase their costs. Energy accounts for the equivalent of 20% of total costs in production and decreases their productivity and timely delivery.

Alternative energy sources such as solar and bio-diesel need to be not been developed sufficiently for larger scale needs.

Legislation/Policy

Labor laws – More concern was voiced in regards to the difficulty of formal employment, required taxes and payments related to that process, and erratic labour laws that forced enterprises to work more informally than they would choose. World Bank data suggests that in relation to other countries, it is difficult, yet inexpensive, to license workers Export/Import – Most value chain actors seemed ambivalent about export processes and requirements and seemed to have found a way to work around some of the constraints related to bureaucratic procedures and corrupt practices in import and export processes.

TEXTILE Value Chain

Infrastructure and Resources

Transport, internet technology, and other infrastructural resources impact the growth of the textile sub-sector. Limited resources, such as packing and packaging materials, apparel labels and a broad selection of quality notions impose high costs and compromise the quality of final products delivered to buyers.

Sector Organization

The textile sector has formal representation through the national association. However, the lack of coordination between textile value chain actors and support services severely compromises the effectiveness of the sub-sector. Informal weavers have no formal representation even though they make up for the majority of producers in the industry.

Producers noted that minimal communication between actors, including raw material suppliers, was the cause for stagnation and even decline in the sub-sector.

Capacity/Skills/Human Resources

The textile sector represents a range of substantial human resources, including talented technicians, skilled designers, knowledgeable traders, and dedicated service providers.

Tertiary Training – There is limited support in our tertiary system to guarantee the supply of trained individuals in design and applied trades – many of the leading entrepreneurs in the sector have obtained a significant amount of their education in other countries.

Language – Due to the innumerous Indian languages, dealing with uneducated laborers, and little know-how of legal language, it is difficult to access broader markets.

Private Sector Services

Value chain actors noted the marked development of private sector services in recent years that support the growth of their businesses, including graphic arts and technology providers. These services are the key to the development of commercially-viable solutions to challenges in the textile sector.

Capital/Credit/Financing

Established medium-size businesses, as well as micro enterprises, find it difficult to find appropriate financing for their business ventures. Interest rates are high and banks are resistant to extend credit to value chain actors, even when they are formal companies with decades of performance history. Many stakeholders also noted that if money is easily obtainable for infrastructure investments, it would greatly enhance their capacity.

April - June 2012

9

FIBER

TEXTILE Value Chain

Natural Fiber: The Beginning of Textiles

COTTON Top 10 Cotton Producers: 2011 (480 pound bale) 1.

China:

33.0 million bales

2.

India:

27.0 million bales

3.

USA:

18.0 million bales

4.

Pakistan:

10.3 million bales

5.

Brazil:

9.3 million bales

6.

Uzbekistan: 4.6 million bales

7.

Australia:

4.2 million bales

8.

Turnkey:

2.8 million bales

9.

Turkmenistan: 1.6 million bales

10.

Greecee:

1.4 million bales

The five leading cotton fiber exporters in 2011 1) U.S.A, 2) India, 3) Brazil, 4) Australia, 5) Uzbekistan.

Largest Non producing Importer Korea, Taiwan, Russia, Hong Kong and Japan

In India, the states production of cotton is Maharashtra (26.63%), Gujarat (17.96%) and Andhra Pradesh (13.75%)

April - June 2012

Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective capsule, around the seeds of cotton plants .The fiber is almost pure cellulose. The botanical purpose of cotton fiber is to aid in seed dispersal.

The plant grows to tropical and subtropical regions, including the Americas, Africa, and India. The wild cotton species is found in Mexico, Australia and Africa The earliest known woven fabrics were those used as shrouds for the Egyptian mummies which were made around 5500 BC. In India cotton is said to be used for over 5000 years.

The fiber most often is spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile. The use of cotton for fabric is known to date to prehistoric times;. Invention of the cotton gin lowered the cost of production that led to its widespread use, and it is the most widely used natural fibercloth in clothing today.

Current estimates for world production are about 25 million tonnes annually, accounting for 2.5% of the world’s arable land. China is the world’s largest producer of cotton, but most of this is used domestically.

The United States has been the largest exporter for many years.

Our Mahatma Gandhi described the Process: 1. English people buy Indian cotton in the field, picked

by Indian labor at seven cents a day, through an op tional monopoly.

2. This cotton is shipped on British ships, a three- week journey across the Indian Ocean, down the Red Sea, across the Mediterranean, through Gibral tar, across the Bay of Biscay and the Atlantic Ocean to London. One hundred per cent profit on this freight is regarded as small.

3. The cotton is turned into cloth in Lancashire. You pay shilling wages instead of Indian pennies to your workers.The English worker not only has the ad vantage of better wages, but the steel companies of England get the profit of building the factories and machines. Wages; profits, all these are spent in England.

4. The finished product is sent back to India at Euro pean shipping rates, once again on British ships.

The captains, officers, sailors of these ships, whose wages must be paid, are English. The only Indians who profit are a few lascars who do the dirty work on the boats for a few cents a day.

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FIBER 5. The cloth is finally sold back to the kings and landlords of India who got the money to buy this expensive cloth out of the poor peasants of India who worked at seven cents a day.

• History of cotton Animal skins and hides, and barks of some tree species were probably the earliest materials used by prehistoric human beings to cover their bodies.

The earliest known woven fabrics were those used as shrouds for the Egyptian mummies. These shrouds are considered to be made around 5500 BC although some authorities claim these were older (12000-10000 BC) and made of linen.

• History of cotton in India In the past, ideas and details of events were passed on through generations orally ratherthan in writing. It is therefore difficult to pinpoint when the use of cotton began in India.Nevertheless, there is enough scientific evidence to trace that cotton has been used in India for over 5000 ears. The speculations about the earliest use of fibres from cotton in the Indian subcontinent were set at rest with the discovery of cotton materials in the excavations at Mohenjodaroin the Indus Valley carried out during the 1920’s. In these excavations, well-preserved fabrics of cotton were discovered in silver vessels Until the middle of the 18th century, only indigenous arboreum and herbaceum varieties of cotton were grown in different regions of the country. Due to the human skills and dexterity of the local artisans, very fine yarns were produced by them, from even theshort staple and coarse cottons grown in India.

• Introduction of Cotton production in India The Indian cotton production was about 14 Million bales around year 2000 and the same was termed as most contaminated cotton in the world due to various deficiencies in production but now The increase in cotton production has been achieved mainly due to following factors: 1. Increase in area under cultivation of BT Cotton Seed.

2. Commensurate increase in required ginning capacity with addition of cleaning capabilities.

3. Introduction of Technology Mission on Cotton and efforts by research agencies like CIRCOT. 4. Government Policy of minimum support price.

Out of the above four factors the Bajaj Steel Industries Limited Nagpur as largest and modern manufacturer of cotton ginning, pressing, delinting & decorticating and other cotton processing machinery has played a vital role to achieve the ranking..

April - June 2012

TEXTILE Value Chain • Current Scenario & Journey So Far: With the increase in cotton availability the demand for better quality cotton fibres nearer to that of hand ginned cotton in adequate quantity became the challenge before the cotton ginning & pressing machinery manufacturers in India and the optimization of the process cost with higher outturn was necessitated to face the intense competition.

The Indian Cotton Mills which use to accept cotton with higher trash started demanding best quality cotton, the smaller labour intensive ginning factories started finding it difficult to achieve economy against composite ginning & pressing factories being setup under Technology Mission on Cotton and Technology Up-gradation Fund. This has thrown a further challenge before the Cotton Ginning & Pressing Machinery Manufacturers to produce high quality Cotton Ginning, Cleaning & Pressing Machinery in adequate quantities. M/s. Bajaj Steel Industries Limited geared up to meet the challenge and provided best solutions to meet complete demand.

The selection of right machinery to achieve the highest cost efficiency with best fibre parameters and to standardize the cotton ginning & pressing technology was another challenge before the Indian Cotton Ginning & Pressing Sector. Thus it was necessary to carefully compare the various options available. In the selection of cotton ginning & pressing machinery in India • The unique way of preservation of history of cotton The Cotton Museum,is set up at Memphis, Tennessee, U.S.which is an historical and cultural museum that opened in March 2006 on the former trading floor of the Memphis Cotton Exchange at 65 Union Avenue in downtown Memphis. The mission of the Cotton Museum is to share the story of the cotton industry and its many influences on the daily life, arts, and the development of the Mid-South region.

The museum highlights artifacts through interpretive exhibits, educational programs, and research archives that help tell the story of cotton and cotton trading, from crop to becoming fabric.

The Cotton Museum preserves the history of the cotton business and its impact on economics,history, society and culture, and science and technology.

The museum’s exhibits are appropriate for field trips for middle schoolers and older, and provide visitors context for other attractions in the city.

11

COTTON GINNING

TEXTILE Value Chain

JOB WORK UNECONOMICAL FOR MODERN GINNERIES?

I

S. Ulaganathan, Director(EPQA) & Dr. K.R.K. Iyer, Consultant Textiles Committee, Mumbai

ntroduction: One of the most spectacular events in the Indian textile scenario in the first decade of the current century has been the modernization of ginning industry which, for many years had remained in a decadent state. The Technology Mission on Cotton (TMC), a subsidy scheme launched by the Govt. of India in February, 2000 had a component referred to as Mini Mission IV for modernization of ginneries through which as many as 850 Ginning & Pressing (G&P) units were upgraded or newly set up till the scheme ended in December 2010. Although this number fell short of the target of 1000 ginneries set by the Textile Ministry, the effort made by the Cotton Corporation of India, the implementing agency for Mini Mission IV, has been hailed as a veritable success, judging by the quantum jump in cotton quality acknowledged by consuming spinning mills. In the early years of TMC, the setting up of a new G&P unit was accepted as an economically viable proposition. Machinery costs were low, civil construction costs were moderate and labour was cheap and easily available. Electricity cost was also reasonable. A ginnery of average level of technology with a production capacity of 100 bales per day could be set up on an available land with an investment of Rs.150 lakh. With TMC’s capital subsidy of Rs.27 laklh, the nett investment was just Rs.123 lakh which could fetch a reasonable profit for a factory owner even if he did only job-work for cotton traders. The profit margin was predictably much more if the ginner chose to do trading in cotton by purchasing kapas, gining it in his own factory and selling the bales to spinning mills or to other traders. Today, 12 years after the launch of TMC, many things have changed. Ginning machinery costs have escalated. So have civil construction costs.

Wages too are far more than what they used to be ten years ago. Electricity bills are also higher. Despite a significant increase in processing charges for each bale received by the job-working ginner, he is unable to make a reasonable nett profit. Even with the subsidy of Rs.50 lakh offered under the NABARD Scheme, investment in a ginning unit solely for job work is not economically viable. This article is an attempt to work out the current cost burden the investor has to bear while setting up the G&P unit and the recurring expenditure he has to incur. It is shown that high-investment ginneries cannot survive through job work alone.

Economics of a Standard Ginnery (100 bales per day) a) Capital Investment: A ginnery with 18 Jumbo DRs which can produce lint equivalent to about 8 bales in an hour, accepted by TMC as a standard unit, is considered here for working out the economics. Pre-cleaner

April - June 2012

and lint cleaner should be of reasonable quality. A combination of pneumatic suction, belt conveyor and trolley system for kapas to be fed to each gin as well as fully pneumatic conveyor for lint from ginning machines to the on-line bale press are also presumed to be set up at the factory used in the analysis. The bale press would be an auto-loading, auto-tramping, 2-box machine. There would be on-line moisturizing facility through steam condensation system for lint and nozzle system for kapas. Seed conveyor and Weigh Bridge are also parts of essential components of a modern ginnery. Civil structures will include, gin-press hall, open platforms for kapas, seed and pressed bales, bale godown, fire fighting system comprising hydrants, water tanks and pumps, CC road etc,. which are normally considered as essential components of a G&P unit. In addition, a factory will also need office block, labour quarters and boundary wall for proper functioning of the establishment. b) Labour and Electricity Expenses: Since the factory considered here is one with automatic conveyor systems and on-line automatic baling press, the labour involvement is minimal. With just 21 labourers, including skilled and unskilled ones working during each shift for a wage of Rs.150/-, the labour cost per bale comes to Rs.50.

The total electric power of ginning machines (90 HP), conveyor systems (140 HP) and baling press (70 HP) in the unit is 300 HP. Electricity cost works out to Rs.104 per bale which has 3 components namely cost of ginning (Rs.38 per bale), cost of conveyance (Rs.55 per bale) and cost of pressing (Rs.11 per bale). A power cost at the rate of Rs.6 per unit (KWH) has been assumed for the calculations. c) Total Processing Cost per Bale: Other expenses include bale covering cloth (Rs.35 per bale), plastic straps (Rs.35 per bale), machinery maintenance (Rs.20 per bale), lubricants (Rs.10 per bale) and miscellaneous overheads (Rs.20 per bale). With contribution from all these components, the processing expenses totals up to Rs.274 per bale which also includes labour and electricity costs against the jobwork rate of Rs.700 per bale received by the ginner from traders or spinning mills for whom the ginnery undertakes ginning and pressing work. d) Annual Cost of Capital Investment: Capital cost of investment in the ginnery involves machinery and civil structural components. For the factory considered for discussion, these are Rs.240 lakh and Rs.130 lakh respectively, totaling upto Rs.370 lakh of gross capital investment (Table 1). Let’s assume that

12

COTTON GINNING the factory is entitled to receive a subsidy of Rs.50 lakh such as the one dispensed by NABARD. The nett investment would then come down to Rs.320 lakh. If interest on borrowings is taken as 13% and, assuming a depreciation of 12%, the annual recurring cost of the nett investment of Rs.320 lakh will work out to Rs.80 lakh. e) Returns from Job Work at the Ginnery: If the factory is dedicated to job-work and is processing traders’ cotton, the factory owner would receive Rs.700 per bale, at today’s prevailing rates. The factory’s annual turn-over and net profit will depend on the number of bales processed in a season.

Three cases are considered here namely 15,000, 20,000 & 25,000 bales processed in the unit, in a season (October to April). The income at the rate of Rs.700 per bale is to be matched against the sum of processing cost (Rs.274 per bale) and the capital cost (Rs.80 lakh per annum). The nett profit has been shown in It is obvious from the data in Table 2. that the factory will earn a reasonable profit (Rs.26.50 lakh), only if it processes 25,000 bales. At 20,000 bales, it will just break even. If the bales are fewer, the factory will lose heavily. On the other hand, if over 25,000 bales are turned out, the profit margin can be quite attractive.

But it is very unlikely that a factory could manage to get such large job-work contracts in a season.

Can Ginning be Made Remunerative?

In the wider national interest of providing quality cotton to textile mills, it is essential that ginning is viewed as a sector deserving support from the Government.

Subsidies through fresh schemes on the lines of TMC with a threshold of Rs.50 lakh, tax holiday, exempting ginning machinery from Excise Duty liability etc. would make investment in ginning an economically meaningful proposition.

Alternatives Before the Ginner: Discussions above tend to suggest that job-work would not bring significant returns from investment in a G&P unit. Two options are available for the factory owner: i) Be a cotton trader besides being a ginner. ii) Restrict the size of investment by opting for a lower level of technology for the machinery.

To begin with, a factory owner could earmark 50% of the days for job-work while the remaining days could be used for ginning his own cotton. Of course, raising working capital, understanding the nitty-gritty of seed cotton purchase, and learning the nuances of marketing bales would be formidable challenges for a new entrant. For the second option of reducing the size of capital investment, the ginner will have to content with belt conveyors for lint as well as kapas, nozzle spray system instead of steam system for moisturizing lint, semi-automatic bale press, minimal size for civil

April - June 2012

TEXTILE Value Chain structures etc.

How Traders and Trading Orgnizations Can Help: Job work charges per bale should be linked to the technical features of the ginnery such as the quality of machines, degree of automation, and excellence of civil infrastructure. Differential job-work rates will be justified inasmuch as the level of modernization of the factory will directly impact on the quality of baled cotton. It will be equally appropriate for a good factory to demand higher processing rate. It will be also beneficial for the traders and trading organizations like CCI to pay more and get their cotton processed in a factory of superior level of modernization. Ginners’ associations and trade organizations should come together for an introspective discussion on this matter.

Star Rating of Ginneries: A mention of Textiles Committee’s Star Rating Scheme for G&P units becomes relevant here. Ratings ranging from “Single Star” to “Five Star” assigned by Textiles Committee to modernized ginneries will reflect the technical excellence of the G&P factory and would serve as a measure of the quality of cotton bales that could emerge from the unit. The rating scheme is becoming popular among the ginners, spinners and the trading community.

Already about 400 units have been assigned star ratings. Many others are in the process of being assessed.

By the end of this current season, over 500 units would have been rated. Both cotton traders and spinning mills stand to benefit a good deal by making use of the information on rated units available on Textiles Committee’s Website. The differential ginning-pressing rate for job work discussed in the last paragraph should be appropriately fixed in on the basis of the star rating accorded to each unit.

Summary & Conclusions: i) At current rates, the cost of processing a bale of cotton in a modernized ginnery works out to Rs.274/-. ii) An investment of Rs.370 lakhs on a ginnery of a high level of technology even with a subsidy of Rs.50 lakh would translate into annual cost of Rs.80 lakh towards interest and depreciation. iii) With current ginning charges set at Rs.700/- per bale, a job working ginnery will make no profit even with 20,000 bales processed in one season. iv) Only if the ginnery processes 25,000 bales or more will it earn reasonable returns from the investment. v) Generous Govt. subsidies on the lines of TMC, excise duty exemption for ginning machines, tax holidays, fixing ginning-pressing rates in relation to Star Rating status of G&P units, etc. are steps that will (a) enable a job-working ginnery to make profit and (b) provide impetus to sustained investment in the ginning sector.

13

COTTON GINNING

TEXTILE Value TEXTILE Value Chain Chain

Table 1: Capital Investment for an Automatic G&P Factory COST OF SETTING UP A GINNING FACTORY COST ITEM (Rs. in lakh) A MACHINERY 18 Jumbo DRs with Autofeeders Precleaner with 4 beaters Lint cleaner with 3 beaters Kapas Conveyor 1st stage (Pneumatic) : Rs.10 lakh nd : Rs. 7 lakh 2 Stage (Belt) rd : Rs.18 lakh 3 stage (Trolleys) Lint Conveyor : Rs.10 lakh 1st stage (Pneumatic) nd 2 Stage (Pneumatic) : Rs.12 lakh Baling Press Seed Conveyor Steam Moisturizing System Electric motors* Hopper feeder & tractor system * HT connection & transformer Electrical (panel board, starters, switches etc.)

B CIVIL STRUCTURES

Sub Total

Gin-press Hall (8000 ft2 @ Rs.800/ ft2) Kapas Platform (10,000 ft2 @ Rs.200/ ft2) Hydrants, water tank, pumps Seed Platform (2000 ft2 @ Rs.200/ ft2) CC Road (600 ft x 10ft@ Rs.200/ ft2) Office block (1000 ft2 @ Rs.1000/ ft2) Labour quarters (2000 ft2 @ Rs.400/ ft2) Boundary wall (400 RMT@ Rs.1000/RMT)

Sub Total

Grand Total April - June 2012

30.00 3.00 3.00 35.00

POWER (HP) 90 7 8 50

22 00

46

55.00 7.00 25.00 7.00 11.00 20.00 20.00

70 14 15 -

238.00

300

64.00 20.00 10.00 4.00 12.00 10.00 8.00 4.00

132.00

370.00 14

COTTON GINNING

TEXTILE Value Chain

Table 2: Economics of a Modern G& P Unit A)

B)

C)

Cost of Processing Cotton Item Cost (Rs.) Labour cost per bale 50 Power cost per bale 104 Cloth & hoops per bale 70 Maintenance, stores, etc, per bale 20 Lubricants per bale 10 Misc. overheads per bale 20 Total Cost per Bale 274 Annual cost of Investment (Net investment Rs.320 lakh) Item Cost (Rs. in lakh) i) Interest on investment @ 13% 41.60 ii) Depreciation @ 12% 38.40 Total cost for the ginner 80.00 Nett Returns from Processing Item Annual Cost (Rs. in lakh) 15,000 20,000 bpy bpy i) Processing cost (@ Rs.274 per bale) 41.10 54.80 ii)Capital Cost (from B above) 80.00 80.00 iii)Total outgoing (i+ii) 121.00 134.80 Iv)Income from processing @ Rs.700/bale 105.00 140.00 v) Nett profit (iv – iii) -16.10 5.20

25,000 bpy 68.50 80.00 148.50 175.00 26.50

To feel more Cotton go through following website…

• • • • • • • • • • • • •

International cotton association : http://www.ica-ltd.org National cotton councils of America http://www.cotton.org Cotton corporation of India http://cotcorp.gov.in China Cotton association http://www.acfsmc.cn Sustainable Cotton Project http://www.sustainablecotton.org Cotton Marketing Directory : Cotton on net : http://www.cotton-net.com/ Central institutes of Cotton research http://www.cicr.org.in/ The Cotton Museum http://www.memphiscottonmuseum.org/ International Cotton Advisory Committee : http://icac.org/ Cotton Association of India : http://www.caionline.in CRN INDIA http://www.crnindia.com The cotton tradeindia http://www.cottontradeindia.com/ Cotton Outlook http://www.cotlook.com/

April - June 2012

15

INTERVIEW WITH GINNER

TEXTILE Value Chain

E

xclusive Interview given by Mr. Divyesh M.D of KUTCH GINNING AND SPINNING PVT. LTD. We had asked few questions about Textile industry and Associated with the industry. He explain the process of

Ginning Value chain Seed Cotton Drying and Cleaning Packing Transport Admin

Ginning

Cleaning/

Input resources are: Material, Labor, Electricity, Maintenance parts, Equipments.

Mr. Divyesh Expressed his view about growth path and GDP of Indian Textile industry. “Government Lacks due to nonreserve fund of textile industry. Industry lacks due to less margin of business.�

Where is your company stand in entire Value chain?

We are ginner. We purchase raw material, seed cotton from farmer, process it mechanically.

What will be the growth of Textile industry according to you in terms of Opportunities, Revenues, Exports, Foreign investments etc?

Industries growth is good. Because now a days due to awareness and increase the financial capacity of the people, they pay more on cloths and other cotton accessories. In our ginning industries foreign investment till today is Nil. The Scope of Exports is too good because we are the second largest in big raw cotton exporter country after USA.

April - June 2012

Why is Textile industry so fragmented or Unorganized?

India has two major states Maharashtra and Gujarat where farmer grow the maximum cotton in their farms.

Ginning units is established near seed cotton growing area. But most of spinning mills located in north and south part of India, but some mills only doing Part processing like few doing spinning, few doing knitting, few doing weaving etc but it is very difficult to find the full process of Textile mills because of heavy investment, uncertain market, government interference and shortage of labors and electricity. That is why the Textile industry so unorganized.

Why there is gap between Organized and unorganized sector?

Specially Textile industry have huge investment because it is agriculture based industry, crop come once in a year, that is why all processor of Textile industries like ginning and knitting and have to store raw materials as per the season and to process after it. Price fluctuation during this process has to bear by the processor.

Where in organized industries all channel are continuous, they set constant margin, less blockage money etc.

Do you feel the Gap between Textile industry and Textile Education Industry? If yes why?

Not Really in my industry. But yes, when we go up in a ladder of value chain we have a Gap. How we can reduce or minimize the gap between the two (Industry and Education)?

To established new textile colleges.

To start some private training center and institute.

Aware the student with industries like regular visit, some project work, Training, Good compensation from industry to attract student to join this industry.

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INTERVIEW WITH GINNER Textile industry is in need of People and its Traditional industry, but Education colleges are not focusing and developing as an organized way as compare to other courses offered in India?

Yes definitely, Government needs to take some steps for that like,Grant some subsides to students and colleges to join and start the courses. Also give assurance and job guarantee. Textile industries also do campus visit and arrange campus interviews and bind them for a job.

Current market where Management Institutes flourishing in country, but very less Organized Textile Technical Training institutes is there? Does industry do not require technical people or have less demand /supply?

Each and every industry requires skilled and active people who work smartly. Most of the workers and engineers come to this industry with different knowledge; they learn and gain work experience. But our industry didn’t give high salary to people who working due to uncertain margin in this industry as compare to other industry. After experience, most People leave this industry and switch over to other industry. That is why less institutes of textile due to less interest as terms of monetary, Unorganized Culture, many more.

TEXTILE Value Chain Government and Manufacturer are important aspects of value chain. In which area both lacks in growth path of industry and education?

Government lacks due to non- reserve fund of textile industry. Industry lacks due to less margin of business.

Textile is old, 2nd rank industry after Agriculture but still in terms of Exports still we are not having leading position in World? What is the Reason?

Due to government policies as compared to other countries and having less support of Government we are not having leading position in World. Solutions for Textile industries is that government should give some subsidy in export, established plant ,bank facility etc. as compare to other country textile industries, then only we stand at a international level, otherwise today we are seeing situation which will be more worse in the future.

We had seen ginner’s mix reaction about the industry.

We really have to push up our socks for this industry to grow, make Worlds and India’s best industry to work with. Only cursing Government will not help, need to take involvement actively in the industry.

Export 25 Million to 30 Million UPD

Our company is export based company. We export 60 to 70% of total turn over to all over the world.

Our annual export is about 15 to 20 Million USD. We also known for quality and in time delivery to your destination. We also use best packing material and high technology for export purpose.

We also do factory stuffing (in compound stuffing) it may very safe for buyer and seller also, we have Two Indian ports (mundra and kandla) at 50 k.m. distance from our factory.

KISHAN COTTON Bhuj-Dudhai Road, 8 – NationalHighway,Near Sekhpir Chokdi, At Lakhond -370105, Bhuj Kutch. (Gujarat-India) Tel: +91-02832-271639 Fax: +91-02832-271539

E-mail: info@kishancotton.com, kishancotton@yahoo.com Web: www.kishancotton.com April - June 2012

17

COTTON AT COMMODITY MARKET Cotton now at Commodity Market

C

otton is one of the major Cash Crop of India. Being a fiber crop, it is primarily used as a raw material for textile industry(55-60% of requirements).

Because of its wide scale of usage, it happens to be one of the most traded commodities in the World.

India invariably ranks 2nd/ 3rd in terms of production, and is also the 2nd largest exporter in the world.

Hence, Indian prices depend not only on domestic, but also international demand & supply scenario, and are interlinked with global prices VOLATILITY IN COTTON PRICES Cotton prices are known to be extremely volatile, with 16.6% average annualized volatility observed in domestic markets, and 30.6% in international markets.

Prices of raw cotton for the season 2010-11, jumped 142% to ` 6,900 a quintal from a year ago in early February due to short global supply despite record domestic produce of 325 lakh bales of 170 kg each. Prices remained at elevated level through April, post which it moved to a downward spiral bottoming out to 3,300 per quintal by June, due to export restrictions imposed by Govt., and absence of off take from the market NEED FOR PRICE RISK MANAGEMENT HEDGING High spot price volatility, both in domestic and international markets, poses enormous amount of price risk to all the categories of participant involved in the value chain of this broad commodity, be it Ginners, Spinners, Textile Mills, Exporters, or Traders. In 2010-11, when prices moved bylarge multiples bothways, registering a volatility of 23%, itintensified the risk of losses to all the value chain participants. Result, as we all know, were huge losses suffered by trade, coupled with a record number of defaults on bilateral contracts in the physical market. As per press reports, total disputes quintupled to 10% of total cotton contracts globally.

This makes a case for an appropriate instrument to mitigate price risk. Futures contracts in Cotton, as offered by NCDEX, are aimed to fulfill this need of the trade participants.

COTTON FUTURE CONTRACT Commodity exchange which offers trading in 25 odd agricultural commodities, with a cumulative average daily trading volume of more than 6,000 Crores. It offers futures trading in Kalyan Kapas (V797) and Shankar Kapas varieties of cotton.

1. Futures trading would help all the value chain participants to effectively hedge their price risk by allowing the opportunity to take positions in advance so as to counter the unexpected adverse price movement.

2. Additionally, the futures contracts allow for efficient risk management by allowing high leverage This means that you need to pay only a small fraction of the value of contract as ‘margin’ to execute a trade.

April - June 2012

TEXTILE Value Chain

3. Daily marking to market of positions minimizes risk of default by trade participants 4. Foremost, presence of a central counterparty for an exchange traded futures contract ensures performance of the contract obligation 5. With an average daily trading volume of around` 100 Crores (or 5000 contracts), and an open interest of around 8000 lots, NCDEX Kapas happens to be the benchmark and only liquid futures contract of Cotton in India today.

How Hedging is done? - An example A Ginner needs to procure 50,000 MT of Raw Cotton, sometime in the end of Dec, as per his production schedule.He intends to produce lint and further sell it to the Textile Mills, with whom he has a contract at a pre-agreed price. Now, if the prices of Raw Cotton rise in the month of Dec, his profit margins might shrink, or he may even run into losses. He can reduce this Price Risk, by means of hedging his Raw Material requirement, at NCDEX platform.

Let us assume that, on current date, the Ginner finds that: Spot Price of Shankar Kapas =1100.00/ 20 Kgs Dec Futures Contract on NCDEX = ` 1400.00/ 20 Kgs He buys the Dec expiry contract at NCDEX on current date. On 30th Dec (i.e. on the day of expiry of contract), 2 cases may arise: Case 1: Spot price increases to 1450.00 On final settlement, MTM Profit = 50.00 Buying Price = 1450.00 Effective price = 1450.00 - 50.00 = 1400.00 Case 2: Spot price decreases to 1350.00 On final settlement, MTM Loss = 50.00 Buying Price = 1350.00 Effective price = 1350.00 + 50.00 = 1400.00 Therefore, irrespective of the Spot Price movement, his Effective Purchase Price, and hence his Profit Margin, remains locked-in. This is called Hedging.

Why Hedging is NOT same as Speculation or Gambling? Hedging, Speculation & Gambling are three different things. Gambling is when you yourself create a risk that didn’t exist in its own, like betting your money on a game of cards. Speculation on the other hand, is taking up an existing risk (not creating one), with the intent to benefit from it, like taking on market risk in order to benefit from price movements.

And Hedging is a transaction to reduce the exposure to any market risk, so that one can focus on core business activities.

“Hedging is definitely NOT Speculation, but NOT Hedging can be Speculation” Reference: www.ncdex.com

18

FLAX FIBER

TEXTILE Value Chain Description Linen (flax fabric) is made from 100% natural flax fibers. This fiber is one of the oldest used in textiles for the home & clothing. Linen is a fiber, having length from 25-150cm and average 12-16 micrometers in diameters. it has two verities (1) shorter tow fibers, used for coarser fabrics and (2) longer line fibers, used for finer fabrics. The construction of the flax fibre is a hollow cylinder, called the lumen.

History Linen has been used from past 20th century; a linen handkerchief was a standard decoration of a welldressed man’s suit during most of the first part of the 20th century. in the past, linen was also used for books.

Due to its strength, in the Middle Ages linen was used for shields and gambeson, much as in classical antiquity it was used to make a type of body armour, referred to as a linothorax. (Also because of its strength when wet) Irish is a very popular wrap of pool/billiard cues, due to its absorption of sweat from hands.

Properties

1. Linen fabric feels cool to the touch. It is smooth, making the finished fabric lint free, and gets softer the more it is washed.

2. Linen fabrics have a high natural luster; their natural color ranges between shades of ivory, ecru, tan, or grey. The color of natural flax linen ranges from cream to brown. Pure white linen is created by heavy bleaching.

3. It is a very durable, strong fabric, and one of the few that are stronger wet than dry. The fibers do not stretch and are resistant to damage from abrasion..

4. Linen is relatively easy to take care of, it can be dry cleaned, machine washed or steamed. It can withstand high temperatures, and has only moderate initial shrinkage.

5. This fabric is crisp and starchy, becoming softer over time.

6. The appearance can range from matt to luster.

Applications 1. Over the past 30 years the end use for linen has changed dramatically. Approximately 70% of linen production in the 1990`s was for apparel textiles, whereas in the 1970s only about 5% was used for fashion fabrics.

2. Linen uses range from bed and bath fabrics (tablecloths, dish towels, bed sheets, etc.), home and commercial furnishing items (wallpaper/wall coverings, upholstery, window treatments, etc.), apparel items (suits, dresses, skirts, shirts, etc.), to industrial products (luggage, canvases, sewing thread, etc.)..

April - June 2012

19

FLAX FIBER 3.

4.

5.

TEXTILE Value Chain

Paper made of linen can be very strong and crisp, which is why the United States and many other countries print their currency on paper that is made from 25% linen and 75% cotton.

Currently researchers are working on a cotton/ flax blend to create new yarns which will improve the feel of denim during hot and humid weather Linen fabric is one of the preferred traditional supports for oil painting. In the United States cotton is popularly used instead, as linen is more expensive than cotton, so now linen is more limited to European painters. Linen is preferred to cotton for its strength, durability and archival integrity.

Advantages

• Natural antibacterial & antifungal properties.

• Protection from UV rays.

• Excellent anti allergenic characteristics.

• Excellent anti static characteristics.

• Will not attract or trap dust particles.

• Good sound insulating & acoustic properties.

• Able to absorb a large amount of water & moisture (own dry body weight).

• Absorption ability allows for a wide range of permanent dyes to color the textile.

• Quick drying material.

• Easily refreshed by washing.

• Ability to retain shape after washing as it does not hold elastic properties.

• Known as one of the fibers that holds the most heat resistance.

• A thermal/cooling regulating fiber which allows skin to breathe – keep you cool in the summer and warm in the winter.

Disadvantages • Acid is known to disintegrate flax fibers.

• Flax fibers are easily ignitable and burn quickly due to the cellulose content.

• Heat resistant properties will deteriorate the natural oils which hold the cells together when exposed to steam and hot water over time Consider this point when washing & cleaning linen.

Producers Flax is grown in many parts of the world, but top quality flax is primarily grown in Western Europe. In very recent years bulk linen production has moved to Eastern Europe and China, but high quality fabrics are still confined to niche producers in Ireland, Italy and Belgium, and also in countries including Poland, Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, Denmark, Lithuania, Lat-

April - June 2012

via, the Netherlands, Italy, Spain, Switzerland, Britain , Canada and Kochi in India. High quality linen fabrics are now produced in the United States for the upholstery market.

Renewable • A 100% renewable and abundant natural resource.

• The flax crop has a quick growing cycle.

Environment & Health • Crops of flax require up to 5 times less use of fertilisers and pesticides when compared with cotton crops.

• The entire flax crop is used - no waste is created during harvesting.

• Flax farming does not damage the earth beneath and is not hazardous to eco systems.

• Processing does not use as much energy or chemicals compared with artificial textile fibre processing.

• Look for natural,chemical free, untreated and uncoloured linen for the truest eco credentials check with the manufacturer for details.

• In untreated state, holds no associated health risks. Performance • The strongest & most solid textile fibre known.

• Similar tensile strength qualities as some types of steel.

• Strength increases when damp or wet.

• Excellent resistance to pill. Disposal / Biodegradable • 100% biodegradable without treatments.

Cost • Good quality linen can be more expensive than comparable fabrics.

20

Bombay Rayon Fashions Limited About Us BRFL is a vertically integrated textile company, engaged in the manufacture of a wide range of fabrics and garments from state of the art production facilities. Apart from being the largest Shirt manufacturer in India, we have successfully evolved into a multi-fiber manufacturing company producing fabrics such as Cotton, Polyester, Tencel, Modal, Lycra, Wool and various blends. Our yarn dyed fabric, printing techniques, finishing, processing, weaving, stitching are a mark of excellence making every piece of fabric perfect.

With fabric manufacturing facilities of 100 million meters per annum, garment manufacturing facilities of 60 million pieces per annum, being expanded to 90 million pieces per annum and a strong employee base of around 38,000; BRFL is today one of the most sought after brands in the Indian as well as International fashion markets.

Clothing is one of the strongest human desires. A desire to be different. A desire to look beautiful. A desire to be comfortable. A desire to make a statement.

A desire that is fulfilled by that perfect piece of fabric called 'BRFL'. Woven with passion, our fabrics speak a story of novelty. BRFL has grown phenomenally and the reason has been our customers. Inspired towards betterment, we now possess the entire knowhow and technology for yarn dyeing, fabric weaving, processing and garment manufacturing. BRFL is one of India's most dynamic and professionally managed textile groups.No wonder, we are well renowned in the fashion export industry worldwide.

Products

RETAIL

FABRIC

Guru, a renowned apparel brand in Italy has been a subsidiary of BRFL since 2008. Guru has stores in 18 countries around the World, including Italy, Spain, France, Germany, Holland, Belgium, Luxemburg, Greece, England, Portugal, the Middle East, Turkey, Russia, Ukraine, Austria, Switzerland, the Canary Islands, Scandinavia, China and India.

Every thread woven at Bombay Rayon Fashions Limitedis a part of an incredible range of fabrics that BRFL has to offer.

Each fabric has one inherent quality Comfort. Our promise to manufacture the finest fabrics inspires us to put in that extra effort to create magic.

We showcase an enormous range of fabrics and size offerings available in various colours to suit every occasion and every budget.

APPAREL Comfortable, durable and stylish are the inherent qualities of the range of apparels available. Admiration is guaranteed with BRFL apparels.

YARN In 2010 Bombay Rayon Fashions Ltd. completed its vertical integration in the textile industry with the acquisition of a yarn manufacturing company of great repute, STI India Ltd, thus making BRFL one of the privileged few to have the capability of producing everything from yarn to garment.

TRIMS With an initial goal to maintain quality and consistency in button manufacturing, BRFL has set up an in -house state of the art button manufacturing unit, the Trims Division is today the largest and most sophisticated Button Industry in India.

(The Company was originally incorporated as Mudra Fabrics Private Limited on May 21, 1992. Name of the Company was changed to Mudra Fabrics Limited w.e.f. October 13, 1992. Name of the Company was further changed to Bombay Rayon Fashions Limited w.e.f. September 30, 2004)

Registered Office: D-1st Floor, Oberoi Garden Estates, Chandivali Farms Road, Chandivali, Andheri (East), Mumbai - 400 072 Tel: +91-22-39858800 Fax: +91-22-28476992 Email: chandresh.dedhia@bombayrayon.com Web: www.bombayrayon.com

YARN

TEXTILE Value TEXTILE Value Chain Chain

Yarn Manufacturing Process

Open End……………………………………………......open end yarn

Cotton Mixing… blow room…Carding…. Drawing….ring frame…. winding …..carded yarn

Combing… drawing…ring frame…winding…carded yarn

Y

arn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibers, suitable for use in the production of textiles,sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and ropemaking. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine..Embroidery threads are yarns specifically designed for hand or machine embroidery.

Manufacturing Method Yarns are made up of a number of singles, which are known as plies when grouped together. These singles of yarn are twisted together (plied) in the opposite direction to make a thicker yarn. Depending on the di

YARN STRUCTURE

S- And Z Twist Yarn rection of this final twist, the yarn will be known as stwist or z-twist. For a single, the direction of the final twist is the same as its original twist.

TYPES OF YARNS 1 Spun yarn is made by twisting or otherwise bonding staplefibres together to make a cohesive

April - June 2012

thread, or “single.”Twisting fibres into yarn in the process calledspinning and yarn spinning was one of the very first processes to be industrialized. Spun yarns may contain a single type of fibre, or be a blend of various types. Combining synthetic fibres with natural fibres is very rare. The most widely used blends arecotton-polyester and wool-acrylic fibre blends. Blends of different natural fibres are common too, especially with more expensive fibres such as alpaca, angora and cashmere.

Yarns are selected for different textiles based on the characteristics of the yarn fibres, such as warmth (wool), light weight durability or softness .Acrylic yarn is the least expensive.

2. Filament yarn: consists of filament fibres either twisted together or only grouped together.. Silk is a natural filament, and synthetic filament yarns are used to produce silk-like effects.

22

YARN 3. Texturized yarns: are made by a process of air tex turizing , which combines multiple filament yarns into a yarn with some of the characteristics of spun yarns Color Yarn comes in many colors Yarn drying after being dyed in the early American tradition, at Conner Prairie living history museum.

Yarn may be used undyed, or may be colored with natural or artificial dyes. The colours can be very pretty Most yarns have a single uniform hue, but there is also a wide selection of variegated yarns:  HEATHERED OR TWEED: yarn with flecks of different colored fiber  OMBRE: variegated yarn with light and dark shades of a single hue  MULTI-COLORED: variegated yarn with two or more distinct hues (a “parrot colorway” might have green, yellow and red)  SELF-STRIPING: yarn dyed with lengths of color that will automatically create stripes in a knitted or crocheted object  MARLED: yarn made from strands of different colored yarn twisted together, sometimes in closely related hues Measurement comparison of yarn weights (thicknesses): the top skein is aran weight, suitable for knitting a thick sweater or hat. The manufacturer’s recommended knitting gauge appears on the label: 8 to 10 stitches per inch using size 4.5 to 5.1 mm needles.

The bottom skein is sock weight, specifically for knitting socks. Recommended gauge: 5 to 7 stitches per inch, using size 3.6 to 4.2 mm needles. These yarns are manufactured in Japan and have variegated colours in a random-dyed pattern.

“SOME OF THE STANDARD MEASUREMENTS USED IN WORLD” • Yarn quantities are usually measured by weight in ounces or grams. In the United States, Canada and Europe, balls of yarn for handcrafts are sold by weight. Common sizes include 25g, 50g, and 100g skeins. Some companies also primarily measure in ounces with common sizes being three-ounce, four-ounce, six-ounce, and eight-ounce skeins. These measurements are taken at a tandard temperature and humidity, because yarn can absorb moisture from the air. The actual length of the yarn contained in a ball or skein can vary due to the inherent heaviness of the fibre and the thickness of the strand; for instance, a 50g skein of lace weight mohair may contain several hundred metres, while a 50g skein of bulky

A

April - June 2012

TEXTILE Value TEXTILE Value Chain Chain

wool may contain only 60 meters.

• There are several thicknesses of yarn, also referred to as weight. This is not to be confused with the measurement and/or weight listed above.

The Craft Yarn Council of America is making an effort to promote a standardized industry system for measuring this, numbering the weights from 1 (finest) to 6 (heaviest).

• A more precise measurement of yarn weight, often used by weavers, is wraps per inch (wpi). The yarn is wrapped snugly around a ruler and the number of wraps that fit in an inch are counted.

• Labels on yarn for handicrafts often include information on gauge, known in the UK as tension, which is a measurement of how many stitches and rows are produced per inch or per cm on a specified size of knitting needle or crochet hook.

• In Europe textile engineers often use the unit tax, which is the weight in grams of a kilometre of yarn, or decitex, which is a finer measurement corresponding to the weight in grams of 10 km of yarn.

• Some yarn retail stores try to help the customer choose yarn by attaching a sample knitted square to the shelf holding each display of a particular weight of yarn, sometimes provided by the manufacturer. These samples are knit in the industry standard four-by-four inch/ ten-by-ten centimeter gauge. Samples help the buyer by showing them the texture and thickness of the finished knit fabric.

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Damodar Group MD. Mr. Anil Biyani, Mr. Abhishek, Mr. Aditya

YARN MANUFACTURERS INTERVIEW

Exclusive Interview with

DAMODAR GROUP M.D Mr. Anil Biyani: 25 years of experience with qualified in textile from Sasmira college and Bachelors in human ecology.

Mr. Aditya Biyani: BMS Graduate with Masters in Family Business Management and four years of Business experience Mr. Abhishek Biyani: BE Graduate with masters in Family Business Management, 3 years of business experience.

They had shared their views about FDI in textile “FDI required in technology and there are lot of opportunity in Joint Venture with international companies which is still remains uncapped.”

Also they had expressed that “Textile industry has no barriers for entry and exit, any players can enter at any scale and any point in textile value chain.”

April - June 2012

Where does your company stand in the entire Value chain?

We are at the second stage of the textile value chain. We convert the fibres into yarn form by way of spinning natural or man made fibres.

Yarns are also produced by conversion of polyester chips to yarn. We as a company are into value addition of yarns. We are known in the industry to provide fancy yarns made out of different combination of fibres or different kind of effects giving a unique look to the fabric.

We cater to almost all segments of the traditional textiles like suiting, shirting, home furnishing and knitting with our novelty products.

How is the textile industry growth? With reference to opportunity, revenue, exports, foreign directinvestment (FDI), etc?

Textile industry is a very labour intensive and high capital investment business. India has ample cheap skilled labour in comparison with other developing or developed countries. Consumption is in the developed countries and manufacturing is shifting to countries like Vietnam, India, China etc. India is the 2nd largest producer of cotton and cotton yarn in the world. Finished garments, Technical Textiles, Home Textiles, and Yarns - all have a great scope for exports. Foreign Investment is required in technical know-how. There is lot of opportunity in joint ventures with international companies which still remains largely uncapped.

Why is the textile industry so fragmented? Or unorganized?

Textile industry has absolutely no barriers for entry and exit. Any player can enter at any scale, at any point in the textile value chain.

Textile industry has developed in many parts of India, starting from south - Tirupur, Coimbatore, Bengaluru, Ichalkaranji, Bhiwandi, Surat, Bhilwara etc. Too many players and multiple locations is the main reason for it being unorganised.

Why is there a gap between organized and unorganized sector?

As mentioned earlier, Textile Industry is a high capital intensive industry having long pay back periods. It is easier for large organised players to raise capital for expansion in comparison with small players. This is the main reason for the gap.

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YARN MANUFACTURERS INTERVIEW Do you feel the Gap between Textile industry and Textile Education Industry? If yes, why?

Textile is not yet a white collar job and the youth today wants the white collar job. Every engineering student aspires to work in IT or in Automobile companies where they can get a good package. In comparison to those industries, Textile is yet not a good pay master and hence becomes less lucrative to the youth. With the development of industries like automobile, software, real estate, retail, a lot of graduates prefer to work in these industries since they seem to be more lucrative.

Due to this a lot of graduates are from mechanical and software backgrounds.

How can we fulfill or minimize the gap between the two (industry and education)?

Textile industry has never been a lucrative industry.

Media (magazines, newspapers and news) always talk about software, finance, retail, steel, power and other sectors. For colleges and institutions to develop, media has to play a vital role in creating awareness of the same. Government can also play a major role in creating awareness of the textile industry.

Current Market where Management institutes are flourishing in country, but very less organized Textile Technical Training institutes. Does industry not require technical people or less demand /supply?

This industry like any other requires the technical and non technical qualified people. The reason of not having is a result of the lack of awareness amongst the new generation and the same could be done by the media. Textile is second only to agriculture in employment and also contributes to a major portion of the GDP. The number of colleges and courses are less because the youth is not that aware of this industry and the media has always spoken about IT, finance, automobile etc sectors. If media creates awareness we are sure we will have the youth opting for the same as it’s a fashion industry.

Government and Manufacturers are important actors of value chain. In which area both lack in growth path of industry and education?

For any industry to grow, stable government policies and basic necessities are required to run efficiently. All this must be made available by government. Today India is facing huge problem of power shortage which is hampering output and affecting financial position of the industry. Innovation is required at the manufactures end to stay ahead of competition. Leading position can only be obtained by stable, favourable policies by government. India was a leading exporter of cotton yarn, but has lost its ground since last year due the ban placed by the government earlier.

April - June 2012

TEXTILE Value Chain

As a traditional industry, we have resources to demand the need of consumer. Still need to import few ancillary products, raw material from other countries. Do we have any solution for this?

When does one import:a. When it is locally available but at extra ordinary prices (in case of monopolistic items) b. When it is not available but there is a huge demand These are 2 the basic reasons why one imports. Especially in the fashion industry where fashion changes every month one has to be ready with new products or new services every season.

In today’s time, it is not about manufacturing everything and being self sustainable. It is about optimising the resources available and taking advantage of them and becoming a leader in its specialised field.

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New Yarns

Chenille Yarns

Eyelash or Fur Yarns

Brushed Yarns

Boucle Yarns

Ribbon Yarn

Ladder Yarns

Metallics Lames or Lure

Nubby or Slub Yarns

Reference: Craft Yarn Councils, www.craftyarncouncil.com April - June 2012

TEXTILE Value Chain

W

alk into any yarn department or store and the variety of yarns and colors will amaze you. Beautiful textures, interesting fibers and exciting blends are now available along with classic, traditional

yarns.

Most yarn companies provide pattern books, leaflets and even pattern ideas right on their labels. These patterns give you a good idea of how a yarn is crocheted or knitted to best advantage. Generally, projects with intricate stitch patterns are not shown in highly textured yarns because the stitch detail would be lost. The beautiful texture of these yarns is what you want to show.

To help you better understand what these new yarns look like, following is a brief look at some of the more popular new yarn types. Keep in mind that some new yarns are combinations of one or two types such as eyelash yarn mixed with ribbon yarn.

When working with highly textured yarns, remember to count your stitches often because it is easy to miss a stitch or make two stitches in one. When ripping out textured yarn, do it slowly so as not to break the yarn. And when making a garment with a highly textured yarn, if you have difficulty joining seams, try substituting a smooth yarn in a matching color.

Boucle Yarns Loops are created on a base fiber of boucle yarns. The size of the loops and the distance between loops can vary greatly.

Chenille Yarns Chenille yarns have a center fiber that locks threads in place creating soft piles of fiber on either side of the base fiber. When knitted or crocheted, the fabric resembles velvet or velour.

Eyelash or Fur Yarns Strands of yarn stick out from a core fiber to create eyelash yarns or fur yarns.

Depending on how close and long these strands are, the yarn can appear furry.

Brushed Yarns A variety of yarn types and fibers can be brushed to give a fuzzy appearance and soft feel, simulating the look of such natural fibers as mohair.

Thick and Thin or Home Spun Looks Certain sections of the yarn are spun more tightly than others to create a thick and thin appearance. Thick and thin yarns often have a home-spun look and are usually quite bulky.

Ribbon Yarn Woven or knitted ribbon yarn come in a wide variety of widths and fibers.

Their flat surface “crinkles” when knitted or crocheted, creating interesting textures.

Ladder Yarns Two base fibers are joined at spaced intervals by strands of yarns, creating “steps.” Ladder yarns come in a variety of widths and the spacing of the “steps” can vary greatly.

Metallics Lames or Lure Shiny effects in metallic lame or lure yarns can be achieved using real metallic fibers but most commonly, shine is achieved with strands of plastic or synthetic filament, which are light weight and soft to the touch.

Nubby or Slub Yarns As a yarn is spun, the machine periodically twist the yarn creating nubs (sometimes called slubs) on the surface. Nubs can be placed close together or far apart.

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FABRIC: KNITTING Naalbinding – History of Knitting

by B. V. Doctor, HOD of Knitting Department, SASMIRA’s Institute of Man Made Textiles, Mumbai Naalbinding is also known as “cousin” of knitting and crochet. It predates both knitting and crochet by about atleast 2000 yrs. Naalbinding is a textile technique that uses a single, eyed, needle to create a stretchable fabric by sewing non-continuous lengths of thread in a fashion that in its most basic form is a series of buttonhole stitches / darning stitches and in more complex forms are threaded together. The thread is not pulled tight against itself forming a hard knot, but the stitches are tensioned, often around a thumb or needle, leaving a meshwork of interlocking loops of thread. Diagram of the simple buttonhole stitch variant A basic method of naalbinding In naalbinding each loop is connected to at least one on either side as well. In regular knitting, each loop is only connected to those directly above and below it.The resulting fabric is generally built spiraling up row by row and can be very elastic or quite stiff depending on the variation and material used. It was regarded as a superior craft because it required more skill to produce. The fabrics created are thicker and warmer.

The technique of working a fabric of interlocking loops with a needle and thread may be traced back as far as the neolithic period. The earliest known extent examples of nålbinding, if one is to include the buttonhole stitch versions, are from c 6500 BC found in Nehal Hemar, a cave in the Judean desert, Israel and Chinese hats from 1000 BC. The next specimens are fragments found in Denmark from the Mesolithic era of the Stone Age (4,200 BC calibrated). Since the Stone Age a number of examples have turned up. By the 5th century AD there are already a number of very complex examples. For example a sock found in Egypt from the 4th to 6th centuries AD acquired by the Imperial Museum of Austria in 1890. During the Viking Age even more examples begin to turn up. A wool sock found at Coppergate, York, England, from 970 AD with evidence of madder dye on the ankle. Two mittens from Iceland dated to the 10th century. From C4-C6 Egypt there are several examples of sandal socks worked in a form of naalbinding which resembles true knitting, and for this reason the technique is sometimes called ‘single-needle knitting’, to distinguish it from knitting on two needles. Naalbinding is slow process because the entire length of yarn must be pulled through each stitch, but it will not run. Naalbinding can only be done with short lengths of yarn (about 18 inches), which are joined together as the work progresses.

Several different forms of naalbinding are known, from very simple to highly complicated and they are described by the course of the needle and thread

April - June 2012

TEXTILE Value Chain through the loops already.

Following is a very basic introduction to naalbinding, using the simplest possible stitch.

Start by making a loop in the yarn. The red arrow marks the end of the yarn where the needle is. Hold this loop flat as shown above. Then put the needle through the loop from the bottom, over the lower part of the loop, under the upper part of the loop and over the loose end of the yarn.

When the needle is through the previous loop, tighten it around the needle. The size needle used determines the gauge of the stitches. This picture shows a loose row of these stitches. The most recent one is on the right - trace it through the previous loop to see its overunder-over course. This stitch can be described more concisely as O/UO. The / shows the point in the overunder-over path where the yarn switches from moving deeper into the previous stitches to moving back out towards the edge of the work. Stitches of greater complexity are made by going through more than one of the previous loops and in different paths.Since a single row of stitches isn’t very useful, the next step is to learn how to work in the round. Start by making a loop just like that in the first illustration, but larger than the one you used for starting a row of stitches. This will be the foundation for working a circle of stitches.

Now work a stitch just as you did previously, but this time go through the foundation loop from the front before working the rest of the stitch. Continue to work stitches through the foundation loop and through the previous stitch. The needle goes over then under the foundation loop, then over and under the previous stitch, and finally over the loop of the new stitch. After you have a number of stitches worked into the foundation loop, pull the end to tighten this loop. Then continue working around the circle of stitches you have already made, but instead of going through the foundation loop, go through a stitch of the previous row in exactly the same way. Increases are made by working two stitches into one stitch from the previous row, and decreases are made by working two stitches together.

There are at least 30 naalbinding stitches. Up to 1024 variations of one form of naalbinding are possible.

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VAMA FABRICS Trading Of Fabrics: Grey And Yarn Dyed And Ready Stocks Of Yarn Dyed Fabrics. The Fabric Supplier, Supplying To Garment And Scarf Exporters And Local Garment Manufacturers.

Mr. Praveen finds industry VERY SATURATED FOR TRADERS AND HAVE NO PROTECTION / No Stability/ No Incentive From Government Towards Textile And Related Markets.

Closure Of Mills And Reduction Of Profit Margins Have Made This Industry Fragmented And Unorganized.

There Is A Gap Between Organized And Unorganized And This Can Be Felt As Organised Sector Has To Follow All Govt. Rules Hence Their Cost Is High So The The Products Are Costly, But Unorganised Sector Has Low Overheads And Does Not Follow All The Govt. Rules Hence Can Sell Products At Lower Cost.

Export is not rising due to lack of govt stability and frequent govt changes in policies , and incentives There is NO STABILITY OF POLICY FROM GOVT so the industry is negatively affected.

Manufacturers are not modernized, are still in old trend, this affects our industry and our ranking of our industry globally.

418, A-2, Shah & Nahar Industrial Estate, Dhanraj Mills Compound, Lower Parel Mumbai - 400 013 Tel. No: +91-22-24944381, 66602663, 30401147 Mob: +91-9819332583

E-mail: capitol_clothing@sify.com

GARMENT

TEXTILE Value Chain

A Stitch in Time- Technology to meet Challenges of Apparel Merchandising Instead of relying on people to design, communicate, analyze, project and improve, fashion/apparel/accessory brands now have the digital technologies to meet these needs in a much faster way.

Apparel Industry Processes and System include: • Concept Development • Product Design • Sampling • Pre Production • Materials Management • Sourcing • Vendor Management • Production • Store Drawing Software These are used by the Fashion Designers or Technical Designers to create drawings at various stages of a garment lifecycle.

• Storyboard • Sketches • Measure Images • Construction Images • Packaging Instructions • Label and Tag Placements • Seams and Stitches Diagrams 3D Sampling It simulates true to life draping, fit and design on a virtual human body in a 3D environment. It includes: • Parametric Human Body • Transform 2D Designs into 3D Garments • Fabric Simulation • Stitch Garments virtually • Garment Fit Analysis • 3D Range Presentation Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) Enterprise resource planning (ERP) integrates internal and external management information across an entire organization, embracing finance/accounting, manufacturing, sales and service, etc.

The modules include: • Customer Order Processing • Purchase Order Processing • Warehouse Management • Finance/Costing • Manufacturing

April - June 2012

• Planning Garment Order Processing It is the most important process being carried out at export companies. The process includes: • Style Costing • Order Confirmation • Fabric Purchase order • Accessory Purchase Order • Final Garment Order Pattern Grading and Marker Making Pattern grading is the scaling of a pattern to a different size by incrementing important points of the pattern using an algorithm in the clothing and footwear industry.

Merchandise and Assortment Planning Merchandise & Assortment Planning helps companies deliver the right products, in the right quantities and at the right time to meet local demand, maximize sales opportunities through minimized out of stocks, and thus protect margins.

• Customer based functions -Sales, Returns, Exchanges, Discounts, etc.

• Inventory Management – Inventory Control, Purchasing, Receiving and Transferring of Products • Sales information - Reporting, Sales Trends, Cost/Price/Profit Analysis Production Planning and Sourcing The need for fast and effective planning demands an easy to use Planning and Sourcing tool for management of the entire supply chain, planning and monitoring all new styles/orders from initial concept to delivery.

The tool may be used for • Supply Chain Management • Production Planning and Control • Merchandise Planning and Control • Critical Path Management Visual Merchandising Visual merchandising is the activity of promoting the sale of goods, especially by their presentation in retail outlets. It helps to • Create virtual stores of any grade/size • Design fully merchandised shopfloors • Create Planograms to communicate with the shopfloor staff

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GARMENT • Store and space planning • Produce Range Books Point of Sale Point of sale (POS) or checkout is the location where a transaction occurs. A Retail POS system typically includes a computer, monitor, cash drawer, receipt printer, customer display, barcode scanner, and a debit/ credit card reader.

• Customer based functions – • Sales, Returns, Exchanges, Discounts etc.

• Inventory Management – Inventory Control, Purchasing, Receiving and Transferring of Products • Sales information - Reporting, Sales Trends, Cost/Price/Profit Analysis Business Intelligence Business intelligence (BI) refers to computer-based techniques used in spotting, digging-out, and analyzing business data, such as sales revenue by products and/ or departments, or by associated costs and incomes.

Common functions are: • Reporting • Online analytical processing • Analytics • Business performance management • Benchmarking • Predictive analytics Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) A Product Lifecycle Management or PLM is a combination of strategies and solutions related to design, product development and pre-production processes. PLM can help by providing the single central repository of all product-related data, managing a single version of the truth and using it to drive all aspects of the product development process.

Typical Product Development Systems  The product development information is spread across many disparate systems  A combination of various manual processes  Excel Spread sheets  Corel Draw / Adobe Illustrator / Adobe Photoshop etc  CAD Tools  Telephone calls  Fax Sheets  Emails  What is Product Lifecycle Management?

Collaborative Product Development Process  Concepts – Sketch – Design - Products (Styles) - Range

April - June 2012

TEXTILE Value Chain  Developing Body (the Silhouettes / Design)  Developing new fabrics (Structures / Designs / Colours)

 Developing Value additions (Prints / Logos / Embroideries)  Manage and co-ordinate this information internally and with suppliers Storyboard Storyboard revolutionizes the offline storyboard process and strengthens product development collaboration  White board area for assets  Asset clipboard  Asset repository  Search/organize features  High-resolution compression technology for images  Collaboration and sharing  Used for creation of mode & trend boards  Early visual line plans Designer 2D and 3D Design applications  Precise design Sketches  Mannequin Customization  Style Book  True to Scale 2D sketch Fabric & Trim A one-stop checkpoint for material specifications, sample and cost requests, Fabric & Trim facilitates collaboration with textile and trim suppliers on raw material data.  Centralized one-stop checkpoint for development  Sample request centre  Configurable forms

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GARMENT  Template library  Multi-level searching  “Where-used” functionality  XML import/export Product Manager Product Manager is the product development control panel, enabling the creation, review and approval of all elements of a specification.

Product Manager  True Web-based product creator  Specification data  Project management  Advanced costing  Quotation management  Sample management  Issues centre  Library  History and rollback  Reporting  Configurable forms Source Source is a robust, manufacturer data management and supply chain collaboration application.  Selection of suppliers  Communication of order requirements  Evaluation of placement options  Negotiation of costs and terms  Capacity planning / sourcing plans  Vendor management  Placement of orders for production  Ethical trading management  Technical capability management  Factory auditing Workflow  Workflow provides simple and effective time and action calendars to proactively track progress throughout the product lifecycle  Automatic and proactive issue reporting and monitoring  Task scheduling, allocating and tracking  Critical path tracking  Automatic alerts  Self-help knowledge base Management Reports Benefits  Smarter working a More efficient processes a Right Products to Market a Brings Transparency and Responsibility a Spots Bottlenecks

April - June 2012

TEXTILE Value Chain a Makes company system dependant  a a a a

Reductions Development costs Better sourcing Time to Market Risk Analysis

 a a a

Collaboration Techpacks created by team Single Version of truth Links supply chain

 Library a Data Library a Design Archives  Reports a Management Reports

Crowd Sourcing Anyone can submit a design, vote it out, comment it, and then the top ones get to be made so supply meets demand.

Author: Dr. Ela Manoj Dedhia, Associate Professor, College of Home Science Nirmala Niketan, Affiliated to University of Mumbai. elamanojdedhia@yahoo.com/ 09619492951  Webliography: a www.centricsoftware.com/ a www.just-style.com/plm/ a www.gerbertechnology.com/ a www.apparelsearch.com/.../software/PLM_Fashion.htm a www.lectra.com/en/.../fashion-plm/software/ fashion-together.html a www.ngcsoftware.com/redhorse.htm a www.wfxondemand.com/PLM-fashion-apparel. aspx a www.lawson.com/Industries/Fashion/ a www.apparelsystems.co.uk/ a www.micar.com/ a www.winfashion.com/ a www.esuite.com.au/ a www.forbes.com/sites/elisadoucette/2011/11/22/ revolution-apparel-crowdsourcing-sustainablefashion/2/ a www.crowdsourcing.org/navigatesearch?q=Apparel a www.ratemystartup.com/voteforart-com-crowdsourcing-branded-apparel/

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BOMBAY RAYON

TEXTILE Value Chain In conversation with Mr. Chandresh Dedhia, GM. Marketing of Bombay Rayon.

A Textile Graduate and having ample of industry experience.

He shared his views about the gap of industry and Education� there is huge gap between two; working in tandam is need of hour. Government official should pass the information about new expansion plan of companies to education dept, and should create job awareness in textile industry, put positive picture of industry for young blood to join industry.�

Where does your company stand in the entire Value chain?

Our company Bombay Rayon covers almost the entire value chain from yarn spinning, fabric weaving, knitting and garment manufacturing for export and for our own brands like Guru, Joint Venture with Danish company like Jack & Jones (JV), Only and Vermoda. We have units in various places as below: Yarn: Factory in Indore- 75,000 spindles,spinning of cotton, slub, spandex yarns.

Fabric: Weaving factory in Tarapur, Bhiwandi, Vashi, Islampur, Ichalkaranji, Silvasa, Bengaluru,

April - June 2012

Fabric Processing: Dying, printing, finishing in Tarapur, Bengaluru Garments: Woven: Bengaluru, Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Ichalkaranji, Latur, Bangladesh.

Knits: Capacity 5 tons/ day, expansion plan of 100 tons / day at Kolhapur or Solapur for benefits of common effluent plant.

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BOMBAY RAYON Retail Stores in India: Guru: 13 stores Jack & Jones: 108 stores Only: 108 stores Vermoda: 108 stores How is the textile industry growth? With refer ence to opportunity, revenue, exports, foreign direct investment (FDI), etc?

FDI is very low as currently it is not an attractive industry in manufacturing due to labour and capital intensives Export can improve a lot as Chinese currency is appreciating. China is having banking and costing problems. Many companies are now beingconsid ered as non performing companies.

So if Chinese export shrinks then India will only benefit. Currently we are 2nd only to China in terms of exports.

Why is the textile industry so fragmented?

Or unorganized?

India has a large scale of entrepreneurs but without money. So we have more SSI than large scale pro duction manufacturers. Ex. India has 20 stitching machines per company as compared to Bangladesh having 600 stitching machines. Indian system does not allow this on such a large scale as our payback period is very long, almost 8 -9 years. Also, ours is a huge capital and labour intensive industry. We need major policy changes, incentives and organization.

Why is there a gap between organized and unorganized sector?

The gap is mainly due to different structures, policies and taxes which differ from state to state.

As a result of this, we have very few plants with huge capacities. Bengaluru has very few plants having production capacity of 1 Lakh / day. Other places are not even remotely close to that.

Do you feel the Gap between Textile industry and Textile Education Industry? If yes, why?

There is a huge gap where the education is not moving with the times. Yes, working with tandem is the need of the hour. Government knows corporate plans of expansion state-wise. So governments plan how much employment is required for a particular plant/ office and should pass information to education department and accordingly plan, add more education programs.

Currently there is no correlation and information passage.

There is a huge gap of skills as theoretical degree is very dated versus raw skills, machinery operation etc.

Ex. Women working is highest in this industry but only in south. In Bengaluru, about 30,000 women work in stitching and finishing departments. In Maharashtra, places like Ichalkaranji, Latur, Silvasa,

April - June 2012

TEXTILE Value Chain where political environment is strong, women working is not taken positively.

Bombay Rayon has professional training center to train employees which has great response in south rather than West.

How can we fulfill or minimize the gap between the two: industry and education?

Media can help to reduce this gap by passage and transformation of information.

People need to be more serious and committed.

New employees should focus to be in this industry, improve the industry for long term rather than switching industry. Textile Industry is in need of people and its Traditional industry but schools and colleges are not focusing and developing as an organized way as compared to other education courses offered in India.

Textile and Garment industry is a commodity.

Due to commodity approach, the perspective is that special education is not required.

Current Market where Management institutes are flourishing in country, but very less organized Textile Technical Training institutes.

Does industry not require technical people or less demand /supply?

No, Industry very much requires technical people.

There is scarcity of skilled people in industry. Lots of technical people are required in textile industry but reality is that there are few. Lots of unskilled workers are working in industry and we need to train and reshape that. Also there is lot of drop out from industry, so people really need to be motivated, have patience and be in the industry.

Government and Manufacturers are important actors of value chain. In which area both lack in growth path of industry and education?

Right now, we are competing with China. We need to have huge infrastructure like China, big scale economy-wise. Government needs to give support to entrepreneurs for expansion plan. If this is in place, education will have no option but to look at this industry. In future, people will look at this industry as more promising than any other.

Textile is old in India, 2nd rank industry after Ag riculture but still in terms of exports, we are not in a leading position in the World? What is the Reason?

Technology like machinery is being imported from other countries. There are many new avenues where manufacturers can look up to like technical textiles, Geo textiles etc. But India is last to look at this market. We have huge scope in world market as compared to other competing countries, but we need to be in sync.

33

EXPORTER CORNER

TEXTILE Value Chain

“Indian cotton industry should be more open, relaxing; interference of Supreme body for Export of Cotton affects the growth of Industry.”

Mr. Paresh Valia, MD, Asha Cotton Industries, Bhavnagar, Gujrat.

We are masters in making world’s best quality of cotton: Paresh Valia, Managing Director Shankar 6, which has good spinning, water absorbency quality attracts world to purchase cotton from India.

Cotton has highest flotation rates, most suffered are farmer. Commodity exchange has lead to era of British ruled. Indian cotton industry should be more open, relaxing; there should be no interference of Supreme body. our competitor, China is having more relaxing government attitude, more subsidy by government is given to manufacturer.

Govt. is more supporting to spinner / spinning companies, than ginning companies. But ginning

is back bone of cotton industry / root level process; association and so govt. policy should encourage ginner. Cotton association has good plans, but plan implementation is the biggest drawback in Indian Govt. System. Lazy attitudes of Govt. as well as few industry people lead to slow growth of industry. We are not happy with govt. attitude: as Govt. bans cotton export anytime, there is no stability of mind of people who sets policy of Export and Import. India is the 2nd World exporter of Cotton fiber country, if all industry channels will work together on one track and if govt. supports, then India has no reason to look back and become the 1st world exporter as compare with China.

ASHA COTTON INDUSTRIES

Cotton Bales: Manufacturer & Exporter of Raw Cotton Bales, Asha Cotton Industries.

Our Cotton Ginning Pressing Factory Located at Mahuva, Gujarat, India.

Asha Cotton Industries is TMC (Technical Mission on Cotton, Approved by Textile ministry of India- Govt. of. India) approved Ginning Pressing Company. The Company is founded by our Chairmen Dr. B.T. Valia in 1998; we engaged in manufacturing and export of best quality cotton bales, cotton seeds, cotton cake, Peanuts and Sesame Seeds in all principal word market and to the end users in the major word market.

We are professionally managed company having large network and infrastructure in home as well as abroad, company is equipped with state-of-art infrastructure backed by large and fully automatic plant for cotton to cotton bales.

Office Address: Asha Cotton Industries Vasi Talao Gate, Mahuva 364290 Dist. Bhavnagar Gujarat, INDIA. Factory Address: Asha Cotton Industries, Mahuva-Bhavnagar Road, Vadli-Mahuva 364 290 Dist. Bhavnagar, Gujarat, INDIA. Tel: +91-2844-223258, +91-2844-247600, +91-2844-224220 Fax: +91-2844-223258 E-mail: info@cottonasha.com Web: www.cottonasha.com, www.cotton-asha.com

April - June 2012

34

SME CORNER Voice of Retailers from India:

I

t was astonished to know that India having really smart, creative, intelligent Business man in textile Retail industry, who do not fear with industry Organized Retailers and FDI in Retail sector which may finish their business in a long run. Across country from Bihar, UP, MP, Maharashtra, Gujarat, many other states innovatively expanding and growing their business, though they have tough competition from organized retail.

This industry have 14 lac retailer out of that 7.38 lac is in villages. Out of this 300 to 400 shops have 30 to 40 crore monthly business turnover. Few retailers had

April - June 2012

TEXTILE Value Chain

•

•

•

•

•

shared their own success story in retail business; we had given a brief of same.

Retail works in few parameters: Purchase of products, Presentation of Store, Sales Staff, Stock Maintenance, Sales tactics Purchase: Purchasing of Good Quality Fabrics, Garments, Brands attract consumer to be there in store, visit again for Quality products. Garment purchase is more to Brand, Consumer can switch brand any time, also brand have low margin as compare to non branded garments/ fabrics. So decision to keep many brands should be wisely taken.

Presentation of Store/ Infrastructure: Outlook of store, Glass Window display, placing products rightly, wall colour of store, Cleaned Floor, Tiles of floor, Cleaned racks, Proper lighting, Light but strong, movable Furniture, Good Background Music, Positive environment affects the feel good factor, feel as home store with friendly environment.

Sales staff: should be trained, skilled, friendly with customer, Good Behavior, good service wins half sales. Fabric purchase by end consumer, still require personal touch. If you build good rapport with a consumer, every time consumer buys from same shop.

Departmental shift of sales staff is lead to overall growth of individual; employees are more loyal to company than switch over. Training of employee is investment in the business. Before trend setter, be people setter. Understand staff problems, behave as family member.

Stock Maintenance: Money should be converted from Dead money to Live money. Dead stock is like enemy in business; need to clear it out asap through discount scheme. Keep one day as discount day in a year. Where u can give maximum discount, clear your stock; don’t look at profit at that time. (conversion of dead money to live is most important objective in stock clearance sale) “90% of Sales turn over comes from this one day”, quoted by many retailer.

Dead Stock Formula: Margin (25%) X Stock Turnover (4times / year) (Stock Replacement/ stock change over) = Stock Productivity (100% to 125%) Sales tactics: Free gifts, free service, Entertainment through Games, free movie coupons, free vouchers for next purchase, store membership etc. should be performed to increase the sale of store.

35

Dodhia Synthetics Limited Dodhia Synthetics Limited is one of the leading manufacturer of Yarns and Fabrics. Its primary product is polyester.

Dodhia Synthetics Limited range of products include Synthetics Filament Yarns, Dyed Yarns, Fancy Yarns, Spun Polyester Yarns, Speciality Yarns and Quality Fabrics. This extensive coverage of integrated textile products extend to knitting, weaving, garment PRODUCT DETAIL: At Dodhia Synthetics Limited all production plants are fully automated. The latest textile machineries are used for maximum results. Hi - tech computers and revolutionary software are extensively operated for faster administrative procedures and to speed up production. A Computer Integrated Manufacturing ( CIM ) system is used to control the workflow. At Dodhia Synthetics Limited all quality standards, productivity and all manpower are regulated to perform at their peak

Corporate Office: 69/100 New Mavji Compound Narpoli, Bhiwandi - 421302 Dist.: Thane. Maharashtra India Tel: +91-2522-230202 / 230201 / 233905 Fax: +91-2522-236595

E-mail: dodhia@dodhiagroup.com

Web: http://www.dodhiagroup.com

SKILL GAP ANALYSIS

TEXTILE Value Chain

Human Resource and Skill Requirements in Textile sector (2022)

Study on mapping of human resource skill gaps in India till 2022 • Current Employment Pattern An estimated 33 million people are employed in the Textile sector in India3. This is expected to increase to 45 million by 2012. The Ready Made Garments (RMG) sector, which accounted for 17% of the employment, is estimated to contribute 25% to the total employment in the textile sector.

Cotton and man-made textiles account for more than 80% of the employment in the textile sector, as depicted in the following figure.

Share in Employment of different sectors The employment in fabric manufacturing includes the handloom, weaving, knitting sectors and garmenting

April - June 2012

accounts for a major portion of the employment in the textile sector on account the labour intensive nature of operations. The share of employment in different activities in the value chain is discussed later.

• Share of Women in Employment It is estimated that out of the total number of persons employed in Handlooms, Handicrafts, and Sericulture, about 50% are women. There are more women in the household industry than in the registered small scale or cottage units. However, in the organised sector the percentage of women workers is extremely low, with the exception being garmenting.

• Profile of human resource in different functions The textile industry (except the spinning sector) is fragmented in nature on account of policy restrictions relating to labour laws and the fiscal advantages enjoyed by the small-scale units. The textile units mostly engage in job work (sub contracting) and hence a large portion of the employment is in the production

37

SKILL GAP ANALYSIS

activities. Also, the small units do not have explicit demarcation of functions for sourcing, sales, etc. • Skill Pyramid for the T&C industry Given that the industry would required a varied profile of skill sets, the following figure presents an overview of the profile of skill requirements as derived from human resource requirements across different sectors of

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TEXTILE Value Chain

the T&C industry.

Skill Pyramid within the Textile and Clothing Industry Skill Level -1 skills which can be acquired with a short/modular and focused intervention and therby enhancing employability of those with minimal education . It account 85- 86% .

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SKILL GAP ANALYSIS Skill Level:2 Skills which require technical training inputs, knowledge of complex operations and machinery, skills of supervision. It accounts 10-11 % Skill Level:3 Skills which require long drawn preparation as demonstrated by acquisition of degree and involve highly technical people. It accounts 3-3.5 % Skill Level: 4 Skills which are highly specialized involving research and design The skill summary, captures where the textile and clothing industry stands relatively in terms of skills (a function of activity, educational requirements, and amount of ‘preparatory’ time required to inculcate a specific skill) as compared to all other industries.

‘Skill Level 1’, has the highest incremental requirement of human resources. It requires persons who are minimally educated, yet can handle simple and/or repetitive tasks (persons employed in activities such as basic machine operations, knitting, cutting, and stitching/ sewing, etc.). Such skills can also be obtained in lesser time duration as compared to engineering or ITI courses. As many as over 15 million persons are required across skill levels 1 and 2 outlined above.

• Current Training/Education Infrastructure The current training infrastructure is inadequate on both number of people trained and also the quality of training being imparted. Also, very few of the training initiatives are targeted at the shop floor level. The newly inducted workers learn through informal training and learning from the experience of the existing work force.

Training institutes available in India.  Textiles Research Associations (TRAs)  Power loom Service Centers (PSCs)  Indian Institutes of Handloom Technology (IIHT)  Weaver’s Service Centers (WSC)  Industrial Training Institutes (ITI) offering courses related to Textiles  Home Science Colleges offering Textiles & Clothing Courses  Apparel Training & Design Centres (ATDCs)  Institute of Apparel Management  National Institute of Fashion Technology  Sardar Vallabhbai Patel Institute of Textile Management

The availability of trained manpower is a key issue for the garmenting sector.

The ATDC, ITIs and NIFT annually train up to 50,000 workers. A few private sector players also provide training specific to the garmenting sector. A large portion of the requirement of human resource at the operator level is met by on the job training. Hence training at the operator level is a key gap. Acute shortage

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TEXTILE Value Chain of skilled man power leads to poaching and acts as a detriment to spending on in house training initiatives.

• Emerging trends in skill requirements Emerging trends in human resource requirements  Technology  The changes in technology would significantly affect the profile of people involved. The share of shuttle-less looms in the Indian textiles industry is only 2-3% as against a world average of 16.9%, thereby indicating a low degree of modernization in the Indian weaving industry. Although the Indian spinning sector is relatively more modernized, around 60% of installed spindles are more than 10 years old and open-end (OE) rotors account for only 1% of total installed spindles. In the apparel sector, India has much lower investment in special purpose machines, which perform specific functions and add value to the product. Very few export establishments have invested in cutting machines or finishing machines. The low level of technology and government incentives like TUFS would drive modernization in the industry where as the high power costs would be a detriment.  The technological up gradation would necessitate the human resource to be trained in modern machinery and also greater in house spending on training.

The shortage of labor and increasing wage rate would further induce greater automation which will lead to higher productivity. For instance, the operating hours per quintal of yarn have decreased from 77 to 25 on account of modernisation and would continue to fall.

Also, the numbers of people involved in post spinning operations have come down on account of automatic cone winding machines.  The modern machinery would require skilled maintenance people who have the requisite knowledge of the same. Proper maintenance would be crucial as machine down time and costly spare parts would significantly affect the performance of the industry.  Quality Processes There would be increasing focus and adoption of quality and environment related processes, such as: ISO 9001:2008, ISO 14001  Research & Development The textile industry does not have R&D as a focus area.

The industry would have to invest more in both process and product R&D to maintain product and cost competitiveness. This requires industry-academia collaborations as well as individual R&D efforts by the companies.  Labour laws More flexible labour regulations will positively affect

39

SKILL GAP ANALYSIS the industry. Currently, Textile and Clothing industry comes under the purview of Contract Labour Act, 1970 which prohibits contract labour for the work that is perennial in nature. The exporters find it difficult to manage the seasonal and order based volatility in demand on account of this. Change in the current regulations can lead to opening up of more employment opportunities. Also, the current regulations prohibit women from being employed in night shifts. Relaxation of the same with adequate safeguards can lead to more participation of women and also help in addressing the skill shortage in the industry.  Human resource related  Modernisation of technology would necessitate more technical skills for operators in the production and maintenance functions across the value chain of the textile industry. The sector also needs multitasking/multi skilling at the operator level. The human resource at the higher levels as well as in other functions like procurement would need to possess the knowledge of various types of machines and also keep abreast with the changes in technology.  The garmenting sector would be the key driver of the employment in the textile sector. Majority large portion of the human resource requirement will be for operators who have the adequate knowledge of sewing machine operations and different types of seams and stitches. Although, the industry will continue to have predominantly line system of operations, de-

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TEXTILE Value Chain signer and high end fashion exports would necessitate “make through” system of operations which would require the operators to have the ability to stitch the complete garment. The availability of merchandising and designing skills would be crucial for increasing share in export markets and tapping the potential in new markets.

Regions which will drive human resource requirements The major centres in India where this employment generation would take place are Tamil Nadu, West Bengal, Karnataka, Maharashtra, and Gujarat. The state of Tamil Nadu will account for around 30% of the employment in the textile sector.

Share of various states of employment in the textile sector Source: Annual Survey of Industries, IMaCS Analysis The poor performance of the industry in the recent past has resulted in the sector not attracting new investments. The cluster development activities of various organizations have not found takers and hence new clusters do not appear likely at this point of time.

However,Andhra Pradesh is a likely future destination for new investments, especially in the garmenting sector with the establishment of Apparel Parks. The government initiatives of providing power at a cost of 2 Rs per unit will be a key factor in attracting investments in spinning sector. Also, the state has surplus cotton and would result in lower logistics cost. Availability of raw materials and low power costs will also attract investments in the downstream activities like fabric manufacturing, processing and garmenting.

The scheme of integrated textile parks and various SEZs would also affect the regions availability of labour. States like Uttranchal necessitate that most of the labour force in the units operating in SEZ should be local.

The states of UP, Bihar and Orissa etc would be key catchment areas to meet the labour requirements. Already the spinning sector in Tamil Nadu is seeing more and more influx of labour from these states as the current wage rates in the states are very high.

Environmental concerns would affect the processing sector.

40

SKILL GAP ANALYSIS The effluent treatment requirements might see units shifting to coastal areas as marine discharge requirements are less stringent.

Projected Human Resource Requirements in the Textile & Clothing Sector In this section, we shall review the projected human resource requirement in the Textile and Clothing sector based on the projection of industry size. • Projected Size of the Textile and Clothing Industry It is estimated that the PFCE on clothing will grow at a CAGR of 7.5% between 2008 and 2022. Based on projected growth of GDP and exports, we expect that the exports of textiles will grow at a rate of 11% to 11.5%.

Thus, the overall T&C sector will grow at a CAGR of 9.5% to a size of Rs. 6,730 billion. Out of this, the share of exports is expected to increase from just under 50% currently to about 60% in 2022.

Projected human resource requirement While analysing the human resource requirement, we have categorised the overall Textile and Clothing sector as follows: 1. The Mainstream Textile and Clothing sector – comprising of Spinning, Fabric Manufacturing, Fabric Processing and Garmenting.

2. Other related industries such as: a. Handloom b. Woolen c. Sericulture d. Handicrafts e. Jute.

While we expect the human resource requirement in

April - June 2012

TEXTILE Value Chain the Mainstream sector to be closely related to market driven textile and clothing industry growth, the human resource requirement in areas such as handloom and handicrafts would have to be supplemented by initiatives from the Government and Industry. The addition of human resource into these other sectors would be at a much lower rate as compared to the Mainstream sectors due to need for significant support for earnings, scope for enhanced technology intervention and automation as compared to current levels, the need to add value, and attractiveness of the sector among the human resource supply.

Keeping in mind the above factors and the growth of the industry, we have projected the human resource requirement for the T&C sector. It is expected that the overall employment in the sector would increase from about 33 to 35 million currently to about 60 to 62 million by 2022. This would translate to an incremental human resource requirement of about 25 million persons. Of this the Mainstream textile sector has the potential to employ about 17 million persons incrementally till 2022.

Reference: NSDC (National Skill Development Corporation) Website: http://www.nsdcindia.org

41

CAREER OPPORTUNITY

Merchandising

*_Merchants of chic-istan! _*

I

n the modern fashion constellation, there are multiple genres of roles which collaborate to create and sustain a successful Brand. Fashion is not only about the glamorous runways, fashion glossies and designing couture; it’s a whole new dimension of creating desirable wants to satisfy the ever demanding creative soul of curious customers.

Merchandising is one such dynamic fashion Branch, which has multifold into a promising field in fashion umbrella. Merchandisers have transformed into a crucial catalyst in the process of finished product reaching the Ultimate user. One of the principle functions of Merchandiser is to ensure delivery of the right quantity finished goods, in right specifications as required by the buyer.

The role of Merchandiser revolves around coordination of planning, purchasing, moving and controlling of materials in optimum manner at minimum cost for the buyer’s buyer. Unlike Marketing, Merchandising is more specific concerning itself with the development, execution and delivery of the product line with its close ties to the market segment.

Merchandising not only is able to adjust but also they formulate market changes.

Depending to the structure and nature of the organization, the job profile of a merchandiser differs in the functionality and responsibility. There is vast scope and great demand for merchandisers in Garment Industry by – Export houses, Buying houses, Retailers / Brand studios, Importers,etc.

TEXTILE Value Chain timate sales, vendor selection, Visual Merchandising, pricing decisions, plan stocks, etc.

Thus, we can see how diverse and crucial the function of Merchandiser is in various different organizations.

Irrespective of his functions and role, to be successful merchandiser, one must possess traits like excellent Trend forecasting, excellent communication skills, negotiating art, team building, market understanding, coordination skills, Technology know-how, etc.

At the outset of globalization, the retail sector has boomed in magnitude and thus, has resulted in whole new career segment in the field of Retailing. This also has majorly revived the importance of efficient and articulate merchandisers, who fiercely catastases the trickle down fashion and make trends accessible for masses.

And, as fashion consciousness penetrates and transforms tinsel towns into trend lands, the demand for affluent team of merchandisers would be always on rise.

Once, there was a merchant of Venice, today is the time where merchandisers coordinates a vernacular vendor to re-create that Venetian Elegance!

ANIKET SARAN Fashion Columnist Student of B.D. Somani Institute of Arts and Fashion Technology. in associasation with Raju Bhatia HOD, Fashion technology B.D. Somani Institute of Arts and Fashion Technology.

Functions of Merchandiser in export house is has to deal with buying houses or buyer directly. His main duties are to correspond with buyer, co-ordinate with various in-house departments like sampling, stores, quality control, etc, to generate purchase orders for accessories, fabrics, etc, to organize inspections, Organizing seller – buyer meets, etc.

Whereas, in buying house, Merchandiser deals with numbers of factories, vendor sourcing and training the appropriate ones as per buyer’s standard, Shipping and scheduling, prevent delays, etc. On other hand in retail organization merchandisers does range selection, es-

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42

Textile Institutes which are offering Merchandising Course and Curriculum College Name

S.no.

Course Type

Website

1

SVT college of Home science

BhSC of Textile and Clothing

www.svt.ac.in

2

BMN College, (SNDT - Matunga)

BSC Textile Science & Apparel Design

www.bmncollege.com

3

Nirmala Niketan

BSC Textile and Fashion

www.nirmalaniketan.com

4

B .D. Somani Fashion Institute

Fashion, Merchandising& Retail Management

www.bdsomani.com

5

Blitz Institute of Creative Arts

BSC fashion designing

www.bicarts.org

6

FDDI

Fashion Merchandising and Retail

www.fddiindia.com

7

IITC

Fashion Merchandising

www.iitcworld.com

8

Indian Fashion Academy

Fashion and Textile designing

www.indianfashionacademy.net

9

ISBM

Fahion Mangement / Textile Management

www.isbm.org.in

10

INIFD

Merchandising

www.inifdandheri.com

11

J.D. institute

BSC Fashion & Apparel Design

www.jdindia.com

12

Raffels Design Institute

Fashion design/fashion Marketing

www.raffles-design-institute.co.id

13

Sophia College

Textile Design

www.sophiacampus.com

14

WLCI School of Fashion

Fashion Designing

www.wlcifashion.in

15

Rachsna Sansad school of Fashion and Textile Design

BSC Fashion Design

www.rachanasansad.edu.in

16

NIFT

B Design Fashion / Textile design / Apparel Production/ B design Knitwear

www.nift.ac.in

17

Apparel Training and Design Center

Apparel, Fashion Merchandising

atdcmumbai1@yahoo.com

18

IIFT

Apparel Merchandising / Clothing Management

www.iiftindia.net

19

Xplora Design Skool

Textile Design

www.xdsindia.com

SNDT

TEXTILE Value Chain

Dr. Shilpa Charankar from B.M.N. College of Home science Principal, HOD of Textile Science and Apparel Design.

T

extile and women are closely associated in the world in terms of new fashion, new colour, new design, employment in industry, tailoring, skilled craftsmen ship, fine artist etc. As women are pillars of society. Our whole life revolve around women.. No women.. No Life.. No world Existence…

We are having SNDT Women’s university in India which is established in year 1916 (Soon celebrating 100 years of University) which are having 230 colleges across India. Offering Commerce, Art, Science course for Women, also offers some professional courses like Home science with Specialization of Textiles, Clothing, Food Science, Child Development, Interior Designing, Communication, Journalism many more… this is not just a “ Home Science” But it’s totally Personality Building, Grooming , Confidence Building, Career Building Courses which make them to live with self esteem and independence in society.

We met with a dynamic, head strong, smart lady who is principal of one of SNDT, Matunga, Mumbai, she is also committee member of SNDT women’s university of India, she is Dr. Shilpa… Exclusively she had discussed with Textile value chain about Textile courses, Students of SNDT in textiles, Industrial views of SNDT students, Alumni student. We will discuss each one here:

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44

SNDT

TEXTILE Value Chain students SNDT University who graduated in specialized subjects. Corporate like Export house, Manufacturing company, Fashion Designer, Buying Houses, Organized Retailers, trading Houses, Research Companies and textile Labs visits campus and recruit students for their organization for the suitable jobs like : Merchandiser, Fashion designer, Fashion/ Garment Cocoordinator, Textile designer, Research assistance, Testing lab assistant, many more…

As per industrial view, SNDT students are more sincere, hard working, committed, positive, and smart than other private Hyped institutes which are offering the same course.

For more personality grooming and to compete with today’s corporate world, College had started “Personality development “ Course.

• Alumni Students Profiles: As per course content, 2 months internship is design , 2 months industry work experience which certified by industrial people. Many organization offer good Placements for internship, student continue to work there itself and start their career.

This way we give them stepping stone to industry and corporate world.

• Course of Textile Faculty Textile and garment courses which we are offering here is as per need of the industry. As this course have “Holistic Approach” then specific approach.

Course contents are upgraded every 3 to 5 years as per current trend, demand of industry, on advanced industrial technology. This upgradation is done by constantly interacting with industrial experienced people, Alumni Feedback and Internship review.

Course also have industry visits like weavers service center, Knitting units etc, to give practical know how, experience of education what they have learnt in college syllabus.

Course has few technical college visits with topmost textile technical colleges to get knowledge of other technical courses, interacting with techni- Most of our alumni are working in corporate comcal students. Purpose of visit is to get confidence panies as textile designer, merchandisers, Fashion designer, Garment co- coordinator, few have with industry . opened their own fashion boutiques/ House. So no Women should feel that the textile is just Black • Competent students: Recently we have competition with other techni- collar work its totally blue collar and gives pure cal colleges and students. And I am proud to say business sense if you work closely in this industhat our students are the winners of this compe- try. tition We conduct various workshops, industry seminars, which all give them knowledge and con- I am very much proud to be part of SNDT University, my whole life is dedicated to SNDT which is fidence to face world.

96 years old.. Happy and excited to celebrate its • Industrial views on SNDT course and Stu- 100 years… You all are welcomed for celebration of 100 years…!!! dents: Industry is very much positive about courses, for April - June 2012

45

JOB OPPORTUNITY

TEXTILE Value Chain

Garment recruiters looking from Merchandisers, Experienced or Fresh candidate, please contact following companies for more details: ·· ··

··

··

·· ·· ··

CompanyName:

Dicitex Furnishings Limited

Contact Details:

Mr. Vinod Nair, Phone No. : +91-22-4081 2222

Company Name :

SBA Consulting Group

Contact Details:

Ms. Aruna Pawar , M) 9867643939

Company Name:

Orbit Exports Limited

Contact Details:

Ms. Anisha Seth , Phone No. +91-22-66256262

Company Name:

Choudhary Garments

Contact Details:

Mr Shakir Patel , Phone No. +91-22-4064 3344

Company Name:

Homewards India

Contact Details:

Mr. Sandeep , Phone No. +91-22-2497 5549, 2492 2471

Company Name:

Gini & Jony Ltd.

Contact Details:

Mr. Prakash Lakhani , Phone No. 91-22-40911000

CompanyName:

X & O Clothing

Contact Details:

Mr. Samir Dedhia , Phone No. +91-22-2555 7111

DR. BMN COLLEGE OF HOME SCIENCE

Successful Collaborative Ventures over the last 25 years n n n n n n n n n n n n

Health Project (“Haath Mein Sehat”) with University of California (Berkley) USA, in collaboration with N.S.S Unit Online Cultural Studies Programme with the Universities of Magdeburg & Potsdam (Germany) in collaboration with English Department Income Generating Project with Welspun factory at Vapi in collaboration with the Department of Human Development Projects in collaboration with the Rural Development Centre at Talasari (under All India Women's Conference), conducted in collaboration with Human Development Ongoing social outreach projects with the Rotary Club of Bombay Uptown, and Lion's Club of Sion, in collaboration with the NSS Unit Project on evaluating audio-visual aids developed for E-Teaching of English in Vernacular Schools developed by the Bombay Community Public Trust, in collaboration with the English Department.

Inter-Collegiate competitions for students to showcase their research work with Association of Food Scientists and Technologists (AFST(I)) in collaboration with the Department of Food Science and Nutrition Project with Rossari Bio-Tech in collaboration with the Department of Textile Science & Apparel Design Growth Monitoring Project with Sri Sri Vidya Mandir, Dharavi in collaboration with N.S.S Unit Project on Garment Designing for 'Grasims' in collaboration with the Department of Textile Science & Apparel Design Youth fellowship Programme of P.U.K.A.R (Partners for Urban Knowledge Action and Research), in collaboration with the English Department Projects in food product development with Marico industries in collaboration with the Department of Food Science & Nutrition.

Unique Features

We believe that learning should be a truly distinct experience. We therefore ensure that the institution equips students with all the technical knowledge and practical skills required in today's competitive world.

338, R.A. Kidwai Rd, Matunga, Mumbai – 400019. Tel: +91-22-2409 5792 Fax: +91-22-2402 6511 E-mail: smesedu@gmail.com Web: www.bmncollege.com April - June 2012

46

MEANINGFUL LEARNING Introduction:

L

earning involves the acquisition of knowledge. It is well known fact that people acquires new knowledge using their current or existing knowledge. Acquiring new knowledge is to a greater or lesser extent, seeking ways to integrate the new knowledge with related knowledge already known.

Knowledge acquisition emphasize on cognition. The knowledge known or existing knowledge is known as learner’s cognitive structure. Learning, according to cognitive science is not only the process of transmitting information from a teacher to learner. It is an active, constructive process, involving collaboration and reflection among people who learn through the course of their everyday activity. Cognitive structure is essentially non-existance at the time of birth. It is general agreement that the acquisition of functional level of leanguage knowledge is achieved by age of three and by age of five to six acquires knowledge for decoding written language by the child. Further development of cognitive structure advances rapidly after acquisition of language.

Let us accept the fact that our brain is extremely complex organ, and not an empty vessel to be filled with knowledge / information, which recognizes and stores signals from our sensory systems namely sights, sounds, smells, feelings and proprioceptor signals from our muscles. The signals / information is sent from our sensory system to an area known as hippocampus region of brain where information processing is carried over and plays an important role in creativity and imagination, considered the site of Working memory and through an interaction with knowledge stored in our long term memory, new meanings are constructed and become part of our long term memory store / cognitive structure.

Cognitive structure develops as the person grows.

Person builds cognitive / knowledge structure, skills and motivation through meaningful learnig. Behavior or action which learners use to make learning more successful, self directed, enjoyable and delightful depends on the learning strategy adopted by the learner.

Based on cognitive science, the understanding of how human beings learn, gives rise to the following key assumption which leads to two different environments in which learning is made possible namely formal learning environment and informal learning environment.

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TEXTILE Value Chain Learning takes place within communities of practice.

Novices learn to become experts through practice in solving a variety of problems in a given domain.

Becoming an expert means applying learning to new contexts.

Prior knowledge mediates learning Learning is enhanced when thinking is made visible by collaboration and reflection among learner.

Goal of learning The broader vision of learning includes not only acquiring knowledge but also being able to use knowledge in a variety of new situations. Usage of knowledge in different new situation emphasize on metacognition. Metacognition in simple term is thinking about thinking. It is conscious development in one’s abilities, such as awareness and control of one’s learning, move to greater knowledge, selecting proper strategies, monitoring the progress, correcting the errors, analyzing the effectiveness of strategies and changing the behaviors and strategies whenever necessary These abilities are known as metacognitive abilities and development of these metacognitive abilities is known as meta cognitive developments. Learners who are exposed / aware of the role of metacognitive abilities seem to have the following advantages over others who are not exposed / aware of the role of metacognitive abilities.

Two of the most important goal of learning which decide the outcome of learning is: Promote retention: Retention is the ability to remember material at some later time in much the same way it was presented during the process of acquisition. Retention focuses on past.

Promote transfer: Transfer is the ability to use what was learned or acquired to solve new problems, answer new questions, or facilitate acquiring new knowledge. Transfer emphasizes on future Outcome of learning I started my career as teacher in the field of technical education way back in 1984 after completing my post graduation in the field of textile technology at the age of 26. I have completed 25 years in teaching the students of Post SSC Diploma of three year duration. It is delightful journey of twenty five years. During these twenty five years of journey as a teacher I have come across many students and observed their learning progress / outcome. Based on my observation and experience I can summarize the learning outcome by the following three Scenarios.

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MEANINGFUL LEARNING Scenario One In this learning scenario, a student during the process of learning reads a chapter or performs an experiment on given subject. (S)he skims the material from the chapter or performs the practical without properly understanding or giving attention to proper and relevant information and instruction provided to perform the practical. During the feedback / assessment, when asked to recall part of subject learned or identify the various elements used to perform practical very few or none of the elements able to remember. When asked to use the acquire knowledge to solve problems or perform practical, cannot apply the knowledge to solve problem or perform the practical. It indicates that the person neither possesses nor is able to use the relevant knowledge because the person has neither sufficiently attended to nor encoded the information provided on subject matter during learning.

Scenario Two In this learning scenario, a student during the process of learning reads a chapter or performs an experiment on the given subject. (S)he reads the material from the chapter carefully, making sure that every word is read and key facts are memorized and performs the practical with proper understanding or giving attention to proper and relevant information and instruction provided to perform the practical.

During the feedback / assessment, when asked to recall part of subject learned or identify the various elements used to perform practical, is able to remember key terms and facts or identify the various elements used to perform practical. When asked to use the acquire knowledge to solve problems, cannot apply the knowledge to solve problem. It indicates that the person possesses relevant knowledge but is unable to use the relevant knowledge to solve the problem as unable to transfer the knowledge to new situation. It happened because the person has sufficiently attended to relevant information but has not encoded (understood) the information provided on subject matter during learning.

Scenario Three In this learning scenario, a student during the process of learning reads a chapter on one subject. Learner (Student) reads the material from the chapter carefully, and performs the practical with proper understanding or giving attention to proper and relevant information and instruction provided to perform the practical making sure that every word is read and April - June 2012

TEXTILE Value Chain key facts are memorized and trying to make sense out of it. During the feedback / assessment, when asked to recall part of subject learned or identify the various elements used to perform practical, is able to remember almost all of the key terms and facts and identify the various elements used to perform practical. Further, when asked to use the acquire knowledge to solve problems, able to apply the knowledge to solve problem generating many possible solutions. It indicates that the person not only possesses relevant knowledge but can be able to use the relevant knowledge to solve the problem and understand new concepts. It means can transfer the knowledge acquired to new problems and new situations. It happened because the person has sufficiently attended to relevant information but has encoded (understood) the information provided on subject matter during learning / Practical.

Conclusion It can be conclude that scenario one characterized as No Learning Outcome while scenario two as Rot Learning Outcome and scenario three as Meaningful Learning Outcome.

Rote learning is simple memorization. No effort is made to integrate new knowledge with relavent prior / existing knowledge. This does little to build person’s knowledge structure.

Meaningful learning where learner seeks ways and means to connect or integrate new concept or ideas with relevant prior or existing idea or concepts. In this process existing ideas or concepts gets refined, corrected or sharpened and new knowledge is added to cognitive structure. Thus helps in building person’s knowledge structure.

Meaningful learning is recognized as an important educational goal. It occurs only when person build the knowledge and cognitive processes needed for successful problem solving. The cognitive processes describe the range of person’s cognitive activities in meaningful learning. These processes are ways by which person can actively engage in the process of constructing meaning..

Author : Mr. B.V. Doctor.

HOD of Kinitting Department, Sasmira College, Worli, Mumbai.

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ARTIFICIAL NEURAL NETWORK (ANN)

TEXTILE Value Chain

Study of Artificial Neural Network: Part 1 A New Approach of Prediction used in Textiles Introduction n artificial neural network (ANN), often just called a “neural network” (NN), is a mathematical model or computational model based on Biological neural networks. An Artificial Neural Network (ANN) is an information processing paradigm that is inspired by the way biological nervous systems, such as the brain, process information. ANN is composed of a large number highly interconnected processing elements (neurons) working in unison to solve specific problems. As defined

by Haykin a neural network is a massively paralleled distributed processor that has a natural propensity for storing experimental knowledge and making it available for use.

ANN is most generic form of artificial intelligence for emulation of human thinking compared with expert system and fuzzy logic.

The conventional digital computer is very good in solving expert-system problems and somewhat less efficient in solving fuzzy logic problems, but its limitations in solving pattern- recognition and image processing- type problems have been seriously felt for the long time.

As a result, people’s attention was gradually focused on ANN, which could solve such problem very efficiently. Fundamentally, the

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human brain is constituted of billions of nerve cells, called neurons, and these are interconnected to form the biological neural network. Our thinking process is generated by action of this neural network. The ANN tends to simulate the biological neural network with the help of dedicated electronic computational circuits or computer software. The technology has recently applied in process control, identification, diagnostics, character recognition, robot vision, and financial forecasting, to name just few.

In more practical terms neural networks are non-linear statistical data modeling tools. They can be used to model complex relationships between inputs and outputs or to find patterns in data Neural Network with three inputs, one hidden Layer and Two Output Historical Background: Neural network simulations appear to be a recent development. However, this field was established before the advent of computers, and has survived at least one major setback and several eras The history of ANN is old and fascinating. In 1943, McCulloch and Pitts first proposed a network composed of binary-valued artificial neurons that were capable of simple threshold logic computations. In 1949, Hebb proposed a network-learning rule that was called Hebb’s rule. In the 1950s, the dominant figure in neural – network research was the psychologist Rosenblatt at Cornell Aeronautical Laboratory. He invented the Preceptor, which represents a Biological sensory model such as the eye. Windrow and Hoff proposed ADALINE and MADALINE and trained the network by delta rule, which is the forerunner of the modern back propagation trained method. The lack of expected performance of these network coupled

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ARTIFICIAL NEURAL NETWORK (ANN) with the glamour of van Neumann digital computer in the late 1960s and 1970s practically camouflaged the neuralnetwork evolution.

The modern era of the neural network with rejuvenated research practically started in 1982, when Hopfield, a professor of chemistry and biology at California Institute of Technology, presented his invention at the National Academy of Science. Since then, many neural-network models and learning rule have been introduced. Since the beginning of the 1990s, the neural network as an artificialintelligence tool has captivated the attention of a large section of scientific community.

Many important advances have been boosted by the use of inexpensive computer emulations. Following an initial period of enthusiasm, the field survived a period of frustration and disrepute. During this period when funding and professional support was minimal, important advances were made by relatively few researchers. These pioneers were able to develop convincing technology which surpassed the limitations identified

by Minsky and Papert. Minsky and Papert, published a book (in 1969) in which they summed up a general feeling of frustration (against neural networks) among researchers, and was thus accepted by most without further analysis. Currently, the neural network field enjoys a resurgence of interest and a corresponding increase in funding.

The first artificial neuron was produced in 1943 by the neurophysiologist Warren McCulloch and the logician Walter Pits. But the technology available at that time did not allow them to do too much.

These networks are also similar to the biological neural networks in the sense that functions are performed collectively and in parallel by the units, rather than there being a clear delineation of subtasks to which various units are assigned. Currently, the term Artificial Neural Network (ANN) tends to refer mostly to neural network models employed in statistics, cognitive psychology and artificial intelligence. Neural network models designed with emulation of the central nervous system (CNS) in mind are a subject of theoretical neuroscience (computational neuroscience).

In modern software implementations of artificial neural networks the approach inspired by biology has more or less been abandoned for a more practical approach based on statistics and signal processing. While the more general approach of such adaptive systems

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TEXTILE Value Chain

is more suitable for real-world problem solving, it has far less to do with the traditional artificial intelligence connectionist models.

Why Use Neural Networks?

Either humans or other computer techniques can use neural networks, with their remarkable ability to derive meaning from complicated or imprecise data, to extract patterns and detect trends that are too complex to be noticed. A trained neural network can be thought of as an “expert” in the category of information it has been given to analyze.

Other Advantages Include: • Adaptive learning: An ability to learn how to do tasks based on the data given for training or initial experience.

• Self-Organization: An ANN can create its own organization or representation of the information it receives during learning time.

• Real Time Operation: ANN computations may be carried out in parallel, and special hardware devices are being designed and manufactured which take advantage of this capability.

• Alternative method for Statistical method: ANN can be used as a alternative method for mathematical, statistical and mechanistic model where ANN gives less error than other models.

References: •

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Artificial Neural Network by Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artifi cial_neural_network.

Neural Network by Christos Stergiou and Dimitrios Siganos http://www.doc.ic.ac.uk/~nd/surprise_96/ journal/vol4/cs11/report.html#Introduction%20 to%20neural%20networks Chattopadhyay, R., and Guha, A., “Artificial Neural Networks: Applications to Textile”, The Textile Institute, Manchester, Textile Progress 2004.

Supervised Learning by Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ Supervised_learning.

“Application of Neural Networks in Fabric Engineering “By D. Gopalakrishnan. http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/ textile-industry-articles/application-ofneural-networks.asp.

“Neural model of the spinning process for predicting selected properties of flax/cotton yarn blends” By : Lidia Jackowska-Strumillo, Tadeusz Jackowski, Danuta Cyniak & Jerzy Czekalski http://www.fibre2fashion.com/ industry-article/8/769/neural-model-of-thespinning1.asp

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Textile Trade Exhibition Details Between 20 April to 20 July 2012.

Exhibition Name: Date: Venue: Organition Name: Details Of Organizer: Exhibitors Profile:

Indigo – 2012 20-21 April 2012 Epicenter, Apparel House, Gurgaon, Ncr Denim Club India I-96, Naraina, New Delhi, India Tel: +91-11-25895281 Email: Info@denimclubindia.org Denim Manufacturer, Suppliers, Related And Interested Into Denim Industry.

Exhibition Name: Date: Venue: Organition Name: Details Of Organizer:

Garfab Tx – 2012 25-27 May 2012 Siecc, Surat India, Surat, Gujarat Vardaan Events Pvt Ltd. 64 A, 2nd D Cross Hanumantappa Layout, Sultanpalya, Rt Nagar Bangalore - 560032 Tel: +91-80-23434446 Fax: +91-80-23535859 E-mail: Info@vardaanevents.in Website: www.vardaanevents.in Textile Machinery, Embroidary, Apparel, Leather, Knitting & Jute Technology Weaving, Texturising, Dyeing, Finishing, Colour Matching,lab Equipments, Printing And More. Knitting Machines: Sewing, Mbroidery, Laundry And Finishing Laser, Cad/cam And Others. Fabric And Accessories: Yarn, Fabrics, Threads, Button, Zipper, Interlining Embellishments Etc.

Exhibitors Profile:

Exhibition Name: Date: Venue: Organition Name: Details Of Organizer:

Exhibitors Profile:

Exhibition Name: Date: Venue: Organition Name: Details Of Organizer:

Fabrics And Accessories Show – 2012 1-3 June 2012 Gayatri Vihar, Palace Ground, Banglore - 560052, Karnataka S S Textile Media Pvt. Ltd. 34, 2nd Floor, Cmh Road, 17th Cross, Laxmipura, Bangalore - 560 008 Karnataka, India Tel: +91-80-25544711, 41151841 Fax: +91-80-25544711 Mobile: +91-98454 46570, 93425 66532 E-mail: Ssmedia@fandashow.com, Ssmedia@airtelmail.in Website: Www.fandashow.com Manufacturer And Traders Of Fabrics, Trimmings, Embellishments

Exhibitors Profile:

India International Leather Fair – 2012 5-7 July, 2012 Pragati Maidan, New Delhi Itpo India Trade Promotion Organisation Pragati Bhawan, Pragati Maidan, New Delhi -110 001 Tel: +91-11-23371540 (EPABX) Fax: +91-11-23371492 / 23371493 E-mail: Info@itpo-online.com Website: www.indiatradefair.com Manufacturer, Traders Of Leather Articles

Exhibition Name: Date: Venue: Organition Name: Details Of Organizer: Exhibitors Profile:

GTE – 2012 13-15 July, 2012 Gayatri Vihar Palace, Ground, Banglore, GTE Gayatri Vihar Palace Ground, Banglore Garment Machinery, Accessories And Support Services From India & Different Parts OfThe World

UNION BUDGET 2012-13 UNION BUDGET 2012-2013

UNION

Mr. Pranav Mukherjee, Finance Minister, Quote : Economic policy, as in medical treatment, often requires us to do something, which, in the short run, may be painful, but is good for us in the long run. Quoted Shakespeare’s helmet words: i must be cruel only to be kind…..!!!

• Central Excise duty: Standard rate of Central Excise duty has been increased from 10% to 12% . Excise duty on Cotton textiles covered under Tariff heading 5204 to 5212 increased from 4% to 6%.

• Service Tax:Service tax rate has been increased from 10 to 12%. Number of alignment made to harmonies Central Excise and Service Tax. A common simplified registration form and a common return comprising of one page are steps in this direction. Study team to examine the possibility of common tax code for Central Excise and Service Tax. New scheme announced for simplification of refunds. Rules pertaining to point of taxation are being rationalized.

• Textiles:Automatic shuttle less looms fully exempted from basic customs duty of 5%. Automatic silk reeling and processing machinery as well as its parts exempted from basic customs duty . Second hand machinery to attract basic duty of 7.5%. Basic customs duty on wool waste and wool tops reduced from 15% to 5% .Basic customs duty on Titanium dioxide reduced from 10% to 7.5% . Aramid yarn and fabric used for the manufacture of bullet proof helmets exempted fully from basic customs duty. Financial package of Rs. 3,884 crore announced for waiver of loans of handloom weavers and their cooperative societies. Two more mega handloom clusters, one to cover Prakasam and Guntur districts in Andhra Pradesh and another for Godda and neighboring districts in Jharkhand to be set up. Three Weaver’s Service Centers one each in Mizoram, Nagaland and Jharkhand to be set up for providing technical support to poor handloom weavers. Rs.500 crore pilot schemes announced for promotion and application of Geotextiles in the North Eastern Region. A power loom mega cluster to be set up in Ichalkaranji in Maharashtra with a budget allocation of 70 crore. Excise duty of 10% is applicable to branded readymade garments with abatement of 55% from the Retail Sales Price. Along with increase in duty to 12% the abatement enhanced to 70%. As a result, the incidence of duty as a percentage of the Retail Sales price would come down from 4.5% to 3.6%.

• Manufacturing Relief proposed to be extended to sectors such as steel, textiles, branded Readymade garments, low-cost medical devices, labour-intensive sectors. Producing items of mass consumption and

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TEXTILE Value Chain

matches produced by semi mechanized units.

• Tax Audit Turnover limit for compulsory tax audit of account and presumptive taxation of SMEs to be raised from 60 lakhs to 1 crore.

• Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) Efforts to arrive at a broad based consensus in consultation with the State Governments in respect of decision to allow FDI in multi-brand retail up to 51 % • Infrastructure and Industrial Development: During Twelfth Plan period, investment in infrastructure to go up to 50 lakh crore with half of this, expected from private sector. Tax free bonds of `60,000 crore to be allowed for financing infrastructure projects in 2012-13.

• National Manufacturing Policy National Manufacturing Policy announced with the objective of raising, within a decade, the share of manufacturing in GDP to 25 per cent and creating of 10 crore jobs.

• Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises Rs.5,000 crore India Opportunities Venture Fund to be set up with SIDBI. To enable greater access to finance by Small and Medium Enterprises (SME), two SME exchanges launched in Mumbai recently.

• Skill Development Projects approved by National Skill Development Corporation expected to train 6.2 crore persons at the end of 10 years. Rs. 1,000 crore allocated for National Skill Development Fund in 201213. To improve the flow of institutional credit for skill development, a separate Credit Guarantee Fund to be set up.

Reference: Texprocil ( The cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council of India)

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CORPORATE FUN

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TEXTILE Value Chain

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CORPORATE QUIZ

TEXTILE Value Chain

Corporate Quiz Quiz: 1 1-

Autobiography of Krishna Kumar Manglam?

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Beyond Last blue Mountain Brushes with History It Happen in India

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Viscose Rayon is which type of fiber?

Natural Synthetic Semi Synthetic

3-

World’s Highest Exporter of Cotton Fiber?

USA INDIA CHINA

Quiz: 2 Design a Page Textile Magazine Cover. Best design gets a certificate from company and Gets opportunity to show their talent in magazine also a Surprise Gift.

Quiz: 3 Suggest Tagline for Magazine: Textile Value Chain Winners will get Surprise Gift + Certification + Recognition in Publication media.

Quiz: 4 Textile and Garment industry Best College in terms of Education is……………………..

Winner of College gets Surprise gift +Complementary article in our next issue.

Quiz: 5 Textile and Garment industry is Best because………………………………..

Kindly send your Quiz answers / layout before 20th June, 2012, by soft copy or hard copy.

You can E-mail us: innovativemedia012@gmail.com Mail us: Innovative Media and Information Company 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai – 400075, Maharashtra, India.

Upcoming Issue: July 2012 Highlights…

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Cover Story : Siyaram Corporate and Brands Skill Gap Analysis: more analysis Sector wise New Career Opportunity More analysis on textile industry in different Perspective.

More Corporate Quizzes, fun...

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