UbudLife NO. 22 • MARCH - MAY 2015
guide to ubud & beyond, bali lifestyle, people, arts, yoga, spirit, culture and cuisine
COK SAWITRI free
ACTIONS NOT WORDS NYEPI - MELASTI NIGHT MARKETS RAW OR REAL YOGA
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Ibu Rai, as she was well known to many travelers in the 60’s, was born 1925. She sold food and her “Warung” became quite famous, even travel books recommended it as place to find safe and good quality food for foreigners. Her son, Dewa Gede, opened a restaurant in 1986 at family land and as a tribute to his mother courage and enterprise, called it Ibu Rai Restaurant. He carries on his mother’s. Our restaurant is specially selected for nutrition and natural flavors using the best and freshest ingredients. All are carefully presented and with friendly service. “Hope you enjoy our food with taste of Asian Spices”.
72 Monkey Forest Street Ubud Bali | +62 361 973472 restaurant@iburai.com | www.iburai.com
MELASTI
before bali’s day of silence by jill alexander • images ayu sekar
B
ali’s remarkable energy is kept alive by a constant succession of ceremonies, belief systems and daily practices, that fill the hearts and minds of the people with that that intangible Baliness. It is a mindset and an outlook on Life that we westerners have difficulty in comprehending. One of the most beguiling and dramatic of all events on the annual calendar is Nyepi the day of Silence. It is day when everything shuts down. NO traffic, no people on the street, no jetplanes arriving from foreign lands. There is no light and no cooking! No Sex. Everything is shut down. Offically, it is a day of meditation and retreat – a time to review one’s life and purpose – to journey inward and to keep hidden from any bad spirits that may be lurking after the huge noise of the night before.
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CULTURE But for many, it is a holiday – a time to relax in front of the tv, or in some cosy resort and take it easy. Never mind the spirit is there. Two or three days before Nyepi, depending on the location, every banjar in Bali makes a pilgrimage to the sea. Known as Melasti, this ceremony is one of the most interesting spectacles to see on the island. All statues of deities are cleaned and made ready to help bring the conscious mind closer to the gods. The ceremony cleanses not just the alter and shrines of individual temples but it also serves as an act of purification for the whole world. What a shame other countries don’t follow this system to welcome the new year. If you are prepared, you can get up really early and watch the sun rise while the first group prepares for their ritual. If you are lucky you will also witness long processions of beautifully dressed Balinese making their way to the ceremonial place. What a way to greet the new day. This is Bali at its best and most beautiful. Beaches all over Bali, from Kuta and Seminyak to Klungkung and north to Amed and Singaraja are all busy with this arresting spectacle. It is a happy and beautiful time for all. A cleansing ceremony of great proportions, each group brings all their most precious pusaka, their barongs and huge numbers of offerings to be blessed at the sea. Many of the beaches designated for the ceremony are busy all day as the groups are staggered to be able to include all of them. In earlier times, the processions would walk for miles to reach the sea but now they arrive in trucks – less romantic but certainly more expedient. Trucks arrive and hundreds of white garbed Balinese assemble. Offerings are set up on the long benches erected for the purpose.
Beloved Barongs are placed carefully in their respective positions and all is made ready for the ceremony and prayer. Then, two days later, it is time to chase the bad spirits out of Bali, the huge demonical Ogoh Ogoh statues are at the ready. Priests are ready to do their work and Bali erupts in to a cachophony of sound and visual spectacle that lasts way into the darkness of the night. Children in the villages use bamboo cannons, designed to emit as much noise as possible in their contribution of demon scaring. It is a big night for everyone and there is no escape.
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This year Nyepi falls on 21st of March.
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EDITOR’S NOTE
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UbudLife MAG Om Swastiastu,
editor ubudlife-gsb team
Welcome to our lively new edition of Ubud Life. In our endeavors to always improve our product for you, our readers, we are welcoming some new writers. Read and enjoy and let us know what you think. We always welcome letters and will be happy to publish the best ones.
creative graphic designer dedito ssn.
In this issue we look at lots of health issues. We explore some of Ubud’s yoga options, as well as food, both raw and cooked. And we visit some night markets which once could be visited right by the Ubud Market. Times have changed and now we need to go further afield. Find out more in the article. During this period, Bali’s silent day, Nyepi will be upon us. I think some people can barely believe that a whole island can just shut down! But believe me, its true. Years ago, when the airport was still open on Nyepi, I was driven to the airport in the hotel car. It was truly as if everyone had left the island. There was nothing to be seen. Not a car, not a soul was out on the street and not even a wisp of smoke (cooking fires are also banned). Any bad spirits hanging out on that day would have just taken off to a busier island! It was nothing short of miraculous. Then the fabulous Bali Spirit Festival will be bringing great music acts and yoginis from around the world. It is truly four days of celebration of the spirit and one of the best events on Bali’s ever expanding calendar. So with a fresh new year under way – Bali style – we can just imagine that things will continue to get better. May our consciousness continue to expand and our compassion grow to include animals and children. Kindness is the way. Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om
THE EDITOR
Cover photo by Windia Melasti, cleansing ceremony at the beach is one of the most interesting to see on the island of Bali.
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photographer i gusti ketut windia sales and marketing ketut muliartani finance yukmang susilawati distribution ubudlife-gsb team publisher GSB (gemini studio bali) jalan gunung tangkuban perahu III/4, denpasar barat - bali 80361 p: 0361 8495479, 0361 8447982 e: sales@geministudio-bali.com w: www.ubudlife.com director putu santosa views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. all material copyright ©2010 (gsb) gemini studio bali. the publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.
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NYEPI - MELASTI
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YOGA FOR LIFE MAKE IT BETTER
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COK SAWITRI
GIANYAR NIGHT MARKET
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RAW OR REAL FOOD
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CANDIDASA A PLACE OF ROMANCE
happenings around ubud Bambooku From Seminyak, the delightful Bambooku has moved to open a second shop in Ubud. Their products, are all made from bamboo – a renewable resource which is easily grown in tropical countries. After processing, it becomes a soft, flexible, and hard wearing fabric, that also can translate into bedding, towels as well as fashionable items and luxury linens. Bambooku produces a wide range of items and they all enjoy the soft, velvety texture of a bamboo fabric. For more information, please check their website or go to their gorgeous shop in Ubud. Bambooku - Takesumi Shop Ubud: 32 Jalan Hanoman Ubud, T: (+62) 361 7807836 E: info@bambooku.com Bambooku - Kerobokan: 90 Jalan Merthanadi Kerobokan, Kuta
Keratin Treatments at Fresh Humidity doing a number on those tresses? If so, Fresh Spa can sort you out with one of their fab keratin treatments that reduce frizz by up to 95 per cent and make hair shinier, more manageable, and tangle free. Their Western trained stylists use Alfaparf, a formaldehyde-free Italian product that is easy on the locks, and just one treatment can relax curls and waves for up to three months with proper care. Appointments are highly recommended, as business is already booming at this stylish salon. Jalan Dewi Sita, between Jalan Monkey Forest and Jalan Gootama, T: 0361 8493677
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Theta Healing at Taksu
Arts and Tapas
The Theta Healing technique is designed to make you feel better. It can release old emotional bonds and dissolve negative beliefs with ease. The best thing is that it can free you from whatever holds you back and removes blocks to achieving your highest potential. People may live more freely and positively.
Half Brazilian and half Paraguayan, artist Cleise Vidal is best known for her fun and funky illustrations that feature intricate black and white patterns and line work, stylized animals and quirky female figures interspersed with vibrant blocks of colour. The Bali-based artist has recently unveiled her latest collection at Ubud’s favourite tapas joint, La Xurreria on Monkey Forest Road, where her framed pieces cover an entire wall in the dining room. The drawings will be available for viewing and sale for the entire month of March.
Great results can be obtained, and even after just one session with Erika Devi at Ubud’s Taksu Spa, I felt much fitter and somehow happier with myself. Swedish Erika trained in the UK and some in Australia and when you meet her, you have instant confidence as she is so clear and brimming with light.
Jalan Monkey Forest beside the Circle K
You can meet Erika at Taksu Spa and even if you are not ready for individual sessions, you could try joining one of her workshops whichare also great. Erika Devi Taksu Spa, off Jalan Hanoman, Ubud.
Save Bali’s Heritage Dog It is no secret that rabies is a serious problem on Bali, however the government has taken a rather severe stance on the issue and has called for mass dog cullings in cities and towns across the island. In addition, demand for dog meat is rising, which means even more animals are slaughtered on a daily basis. To protect Bali’s heritage dogs from cruelty, abuse, consumption, and unnecessary death, BAWA has created a petition that they will present to Governor Made Mangku Pastika. You can voice your opposition to the mass killing of Bali dogs by signing the online petition at http://bawabali.com/campaigns/stop-slaughter-save-balis-heritage-dog/ 16 UbudLife
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New “Spirit Night by Candelight” CD released by Ubud Sound Healer Watch out for the new CD Spirit Night by Candlelight by Ubud-based sound healer and leader of the acclaimed Bali Sound Healers Collective, Shervin Boloorian. Even if you can’t come to one of his events at Taksu, or the Yoga Barn, you can buy the CD and enjoy it wherever you are. Ex Iranian Refugee, with a long life story, Shervin sings sacred songs in multiple languages, including his native Persian. He is also a practicing certified sound and color therapist in Ubud. Spirit Night by Candlelight is an intimate collection of Shervin’s original compositions which bridge sacred world music traditions. While the recorded music is original, each cut offers a familiar mantra (sometimes two) from ancient spiritual traditions and presents them in a fresh way that would surprise (or even mystify) a seasoned enthusiast. The CD is recorded in Bali with support from guest musicians.Tibetan, Persian-Sufi, and Yogic-Sanskrit languages among others are represented on the album. Visit www.soundhealingbali.com
Hujan Locale With the incredible success of Sarong in the south, Chef Will Meyrick has decided to branch out to our neck of the woods with his latest venture Hujan Locale. The philosophy here is to use ‘found and 18 UbudLife
The 8th annual
BaliSpirit Festival a Global Celebration of Yoga, Dance & Music March 31 until April 5, 2015
foraged’ ingredients sourced from local farmers and the restaurant’s own garden, and the dishes are a mix of Asian recipes with slight Western influences. The two-storey space has a real old world charm with recycled wood, rattan chairs, and vintage lighting, and it is located away from the hustle and bustle on Jalan Sri Wedari. www.hujanlocale.com
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WHO’S WHO
Cok Sawitri T
he traditional role of women in Balinese society often sees the fairer gender taking second place to their male counter parts. There are however, many dynamic female characters who’s contribution to their society speaks louder than words.
One of these is Cok Sawitri, a gifted lady whos’ curiosity, sensitivity and determination have helped consolidate her as one of Bali’s leading intellectuals. The Balinese term Cok, is an abbreviation of Cokorda, pronounced ‘chock’. Cokorda is the title granted to the highest members of the Balinese aristocracy. “My responsibility to my culture and my religion comes from within, not from pressures from the community,” Cok Sawitri confidently states. “I have strong opinions and am often perceived as being arrogant. Yet I believe that living in a democracy allows for equality and freedom of thought.” A mature and responsible fusion between tradition and modernity are the foundations for Cok Sawitri’s personal philosophy.
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“I don’t like that the Balinese are only seen as exotic. Westerners too often misunderstand the Balinese because they are often quiet in expressing their thoughts, or because they are not endowed with the logical and rational mind.” “However,” she adds. “The Balinese are intelligent and highly sensitive people. We have a different style and attitude, and code of ethics for public behaviour. Often we do not communicate though words, yet via humour, symbols, stories, art, dance and performance.” A committed, and harsh critic of foreigners who live in Bali, Cok Sawitri doesn’t always agree with western researchers findings about Bali and ill informed writers who choose to maintain some of the exotic, tourism rhetoric. These writers, and perhaps and I am guilty of this too, succumb too easily to popular ‘modern myths’ without the desire to investigate on deeper levels. Slowly over time the ‘facts’ become modified and the results are spiels far from the truth. Born in 1968 in Karangasem, East Bali, in the village of Sidemen, one of the most picturesque locations in Bali, Cok Sawitri has been producing works of art since elementary school. Journalist, novelist, poet, environmentalist, activist, dancer and choreographer, teaching both traditional and modern Balinese dance, painter, with countless collaborative works through most genres of her creative expressions, she is active in various women and humanity organizations, as well as theatrical groups in Bali. Gender politics is also one of her committed interests. “I love to learn and I always strive to retain a child like zest for this, while endeavouring to remain humble too.” For four years Cok Sawitri studied local natural medicines, not to become a doctor though, yet purely because she wanted to know. “I believe everyone one 26 UbudLife
of us is a teacher, we are each gifted with beauty and intelligence. What is important is the strength and creativity of a free and enquiring mind.” Cok Sawitri’s face radiates with joy while she talks about the most influential character in her life; her mother. “My mother is a strong character. During my youth she had the courage to set me free and this inspired me to be brave. She truly allowed me to be me. Serve everyone well, be humble, yet have pride in what you do, my mother would say. She taught me through her own example.” “Gifted with a logical and rational mind that never succumbs to the mysterious and mythical worlds that Bali is renown for, my mother’s honest and worldly approach to life is wonderful, while her sense of humour is both endearing and a driving force in her life.” The famous Balinese dance the Calon Arang is the source of one of Cok Sawitri’s most enduring passions. One that has led her on an unequaled, in depth research and analysis of its origins that culminated in 2007 with the book The Widow of Jirah, originally published in Bahasa Indonesia, and since 2014 has been available in an English translation. She had previously written 4 theatrical sequels based on the legend each with different interpretations. Her mission into the research began as a rite for selfpurification in the Balinese/Javanese tradition known as ruwatan. The Widow of Jirah, which streamlines and transforms the intricacy of the classical legend into beautiful poetic prose, rich in nature’s wisdoms and hidden moral lessons completed the sequels and closes over 20 years of her work on the Calon Arang. Three other novels written by Cok Sawitri have been nominated for Khatulistiwa Literary Award, for Indonesia’s best fiction. In 2015 she will release her next novel, ‘Sitayana’,
Sita’s Journey. Sita is the central female character of the Hindu epic Ramayana and consort of the God Rama. As a social activist Cok Sawitri’s role is often on the frontline as witnessed during the ‘Tolak Reklamasi’ demonstration rallies against a mega development threatening the natural environment of South Bali. The planned project, in which nearly 800 hectares of sensitive estuary in Benoa bay will be transform into tourism developments has polarized the island, dividing the Balinese into opposing sides in what has become perhaps the decade’s most controversial issue. While considered an expert on the Balinese culture she too is more than acquainted with the many facets of Balinese life. “Karangasem produces the finest quality arak, and while
this excellent, yet potent liquor at times may be maligned because some choose to over indulge, its every process from the sourcing of ingredients, to its brewing and ritual drinking is considered sacred to the Balinese.” As well as being a role model for young Balinese women she is modest too. “I wish for no accolades, I hope that people appreciate my work. If you read my novels, poetry or short stories, the messages are there.” People communicate in an array of creative and wonderful expressions, yet the most essential, according to Cok Sawitri, is via language of the heart. Asked if she had any words she wished to share with the younger generations of Balinese, her retort was stern, yet wise, “Influence others through your actions not words.”
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Ibu Rai Bar & Restaurant
on Monkey Forest by ayu sekar
UBUD EATING
F
or years I have passed by Ibu Rai restaurant but I had never tried it. I always thought huh! Tourist restaurant – I won’t bother because as we know the food quality on many tourists restaurants is pretty mediocre. Then just recently, I have heard the odd mention of the food there and thought – hmm perhaps it is worth a shot.
So recently, Ubud Life went to try and see what it was all about. This restaurant comes with a long history. It started as a humble food stall next to the Ubud Palace in the early 70’s when the very beautiful Ibu Rai decided to start an eatery where tourists could eat cheaply and well without danger of experiencing a dose of “Bali Belly”. She thrived and prospered and became something of an institution. Generations visited. Young hippie travellers returned years later with their own families. It moved to its present location in Jalan Monkey Forest and now her grandson, the imposing Dewa Gede Putrawan has taken over the reins. The menu has expanded as has the restaurant and whether you come for a cocktail for lunch or dinner, there is always something to please. According to a writer for the Guardian, Ibu Rai is one of Bali’s top ten restaurants – fair praise indeed.
Putrawan showered us with delicious dishes. He takes great pride in their ever changing menu and is always looking for exciting new dishes to thrill his clientele. First up was a turmeric dessert, which he wanted us to try. Chocolate covered turmeric cream accompanied by a turmeric ice cream proved to be interesting, unique and delicious. We then tried several starters and then they brought out imported duck breast cooked with coriander seeds and persimmon juice. It was delicious and the taste linger so that I want to try it again. Accompanied by mushroom ravioli, I found that while the ravioli were good, mashed potato would have done a better job. The potato makes a bland accompaniement to the delicious duck and it soaks up the juices. A memorable dish. Then they brought out a seafood plate with luscious big prawns, an excellent white fish, potato cakes and other goodies - a symphony of flavours. The food is good and I for one can’t wait to try it again. Gede was keen for us to try the Chocolate Lava Cake but there was simply no space. I will definitely be going back soon to try! As there are many artists in the family, the garden restaurant at the back is a gallery space as well as a relaxing lounge area. You can feast your eyes as well as your taste buds. Ibu Rai Bar & Restaurant - Jalan Monkey Forest 72, T: 0361 973 472, www.iburai.com UbudLife 29
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RAW FOOD
To cook or not to cook-that is the question by iselin
Is it better to eat a nice juicy steak dripping with a red wine gravy and some divine buttery mashed potatoes, or a lamb curry redolent with spices or is raw healthier? Here Iselin looks at the differences “Living bodies need living food to thrive”, says raw food chef and enthusiast Ben Richards behind the raw food restaurant Seeds of life. Raw fo od has been on an up and coming ride the past decade. Researching on raw food started early in the 20th century, but it wasn´t until the 80´s that raw foodism started to blossom. It has become especially popular among people looking for a holistic approach to a healthy lifestyle. “Living foods got my attention when I understood that imbalances in the body arises from the spirit. There are many physical health benefits like clearer eyes, increased hair quality, super soft skin and stronger finger nails, but ultimately living foods are about life force and how this impacts not only your physical body but also your internal well-being”, says Ben. UbudLife 31
Raw food was introduced as a diet consisting of uncooked and unprocessed food. It´s a plant based diet that has not been heated over 48 degrees Celsius, often combined with a vegan or vegetarian diet. The life force and the living enzymes of the food is said to be lost through heating. ”In our culture sickness has become an accepted part of reality, and it used to be for me too. I was not expecting to completely eradicate illness from my life just by eliminating dairy products and eating raw plant food, but that was the effect. I now know what radiant health feels like, and I am surprised it is so easy to attain.“ This is the personal experience of raw chef Shanti Allèn, one of the brains behind Bali´s first 100% raw vegan cafe & juice bar Alchemy. There is another important aspect of the raw food diet; the awareness of the ethics of the modern food industry. “There are so many problems with the conventional food system, and it keeps getting worse. Genetic manipulation, MSG, animal cruelty, pesticides, herbicides and the list goes on. In processed food it´s hard to know what you´re really eating, and how much of the nutrition that has been lost in the process. With organic raw plant food you know it´s full of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. The many enzymes in uncooked foods provide energy and radically improve health. Eating food in its natural state, the way it was created, unprocessed, made sense both for my personal well-being, and also for the environment, and that´s why I decided to go for it”, says Shanti. According to raw food enthusiasts the benefit of going raw is to keep the living enzymes intact to bring new energy and life force into your body, which will give you a visible effect both physically and mentally. Than there´s also the importance of knowing what´s actually in your food and where it comes from, which 32 UbudLife
is harder to know from processed food. This is also important in the Ayurvedic tradition, which has another approach to living food; cooking is easier for the digestive system, and can be beneficial in its own way. The Ayurvedic tradition also talks about energetic vibrations, the qi or the prana. The life force surrounding everything on earth, including food. As with raw foodisme, Ayurvedics believe that the life force can be lost from the food, however not through cooking but when it´s stored or frozen. It needs to be fresh. The Ayurvedic tradition is based on the fact that human beings can be related to 3 different body-types: Vata, Pitta and Kapha, that there are different food and taste benefitting different bodies, including cooked food. “We can use a raw diet for a cleanse. This is not to say all raw food, but the lighter ingredients like salad, fruit and juices. We also use cooked food such as soup and kitchari as a cleanse. It all depends on the energy you have in your body. We are made of energy, food is energy, and we need to find the right balance for ourselves”, explains Dr. Sujatha, Ayurvedic doctor at Amrtasiddhi, the Ayurveda & Yoga Health Centre in Ubud. Are we killing the life force with cooking? We might be, if we overcook it, or if we cook it and freeze it, and we might lose important enzymes in the heating process. Maybe we aren´t. As all great questions there are no clear answer, but there´s common ground from people that are passionate about food and prana, qi, life force, whatever name it´s been given. Even though there are differences when it comes to preparing food, everybody agrees on the life force of food, and how it´s important to acknowledge this and be aware of the power of food. Find out what your own body needs, and how you can use food also for internal well-being. Know the food you consume, and where it comes from.
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YOGA FOR LIFE MAKE IT BETTER by carin carbonnier images yogas companies courtesy
Y
oga – the word is derived from the Sanskrit root ”yuj” which means to bind, join attach or yoke. It also means union or communion, union of the physical body, the mind and the spirit. Where it all started could be a matter of debate, though most studies point to the Indus Valley and pre-Vedic in north-eastern India around 2600-1900BCE. Yoga is one of the six orthodox systems of Indian philosophy and it was collated, coordinated and systematised by Patanjali in his classical work, the Yoga Sutras, predated by the Upanishads. Patanjali lists the eight limbs of yoga where the means are as important as the end goal in view. These are 1) Yama – universal moral commandments 2) Niyama – self purification by discipline 3) Asana – 36 UbudLife
posture 4) Pranayama – rhythmic control of the breath 5) Pratyahara – withdrawl and emancipation of the mind from the domination of the sense and exterior objects 6) Dharana – concentration 7) Dhyana – meditation and 8) Samadhi – a state of super-consciousness. So even though the western world of today put more emphasise on no 3, the asanas, as B.K.S. Iyengar puts it, “without the backing of yama and niyama is mere acrobatics.” The asanas, the physical postures, is one of steps to prepare and strengthen the body to be able to sit comfortably in meditation for a longer period of time. Each of the postures plays a specific part towards this goal and many of them have name after different sages, and there are myths and stories of how they came to.
YOGA IN UBUD “As a yoga teacher I really love these myths and backgrounds of the asanas, and creating a class becomes like writing a song. You play with the postures, breath and the quality of energy. It is the breath linked with movement that truly offers the benefits of yoga practice, to connect with ones body and feel the energy and be able to bring the benefits of yoga into daily life. If you can breath through a series of challenging asanas, imagine what you can breathe through in your everyday life.”
Siam Sally on Jalan Pengosekan. The space is big and lush and includes a restaurant, an Ayurvedic healing place, a yoga shop and a guesthouse, and little hideaway bales where you can sip on a coconut in between classes.
Yoga practise in ubud
Website: www.theyogabarn.com
There are a lot places in Ubud to practice all kinds of yoga. If you want to get sweaty in a Vinyasa flow class, on the dance floor of Ecstatic dance or wind down in a Restorative class, during a sound healing workshop it is all here. All of the studios offer classes and/ or special discounts to people holding Kitas passes and to locals.
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The Yoga Barn The Yoga Barn is the biggest yoga studio in Ubud and it has grown a lot since the start in 2007. Offering a wide range of yoga classes, dance, sound healing, meditation and movie nights, the Yoga Barn is often on the “to-do lists” of visitors to Ubud and there is something for everyone. Teachers from all over the world come together to lead classes, teacher trainings and different retreats. There is also a group of in-house practioners that offer everything from Thai massage to CranioSacral to healing musical transformations and Ayurvedic therapies. Hidden away from the traffic, it is just behind
Capacity: 5 studios, more than 90 classes a week Prices IDR: Drop in 120.000, discounts if you buy a class card with 3, 5, 10 or 20 classes. One month unlimited is 2.500.000
Radiantly Alive Just off the main road, opposite Bali Buda, is the entrance to Radiantly Alive. The friendly staff at reception greets you and then the studio opens up in several levels. The variety of teachers offer a lot of different classes and workshops, like the signature class of Radiantly Alive Vinyasa and also fly high yoga where the perspective and conventional thoughts of yoga asanas shifts while doing poses hanging from a belt that is attached to the ceiling – it must be experienced. The studio also offers different healing options, private yoga sessions and teacher trainings. There is a store within the studio and a café in the making. Capacity: 3 studios, more than 45 classes a week Prices: Drop in 140.000, discounts in a vast range of unlimited cards from 1 day up to 6 months. Website: www.radiantlyalive.com UbudLife 37
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Intuitive Flow Set in the rice fields in Penestanan, Intuitive flow offers one of the most spectacular views from the yoga studio. On clear days you can see the volcanoes and a natural breeze blows through the room while you go through a Pranala yoga class. Yoga pranala being the signature of the studio and Linda, the founder, it is a combination of asana, pranayama, meditation, mudra pranala and yoga nidra. The studio, in addition to a wide range of classes with different teachers, also offers workshops, events and teacher trainings. Intuitive flow is well worth the trip away from the traffic and main streets of Ubud. There are plenty of cafes
around to serve you your green juice or raw food snack after the class. Capacity: 1 studio, more than 25 classes a week Prices: Drop in 120.000, discounts on multiclass cards of 5, 10 or 15 classes. Website: www.intuitiveflow.com
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words • image by ayu sekar
LIVING COLOR ibu kat • imagse by? ??
T
he ancient alchemy of colouring cloth with plant dyes is ... well... a dying art. Locating and collecting the roots, bark, leaves and seeds from specific plants and then cleaning, drying and combining them is very time consuming and not something your average Indonesian girl dreams of doing. These days she’d rather be working in a spa, thank you very much.
But for those of us fascinated by rapidly disappearing traditional dying techniques, there’s an easy and pleasant way to learn about them. I recently took a half-day traditional dye workshop which renewed my respect and interest in this millennia-old art. The workshop is a snapshot of Indonesia’s rich and complex heritage of dying and batik. 44 UbudLife
TO DYE FOR The ancient alchemy of colouring cloth with plant dyes is ... well... a dying art. Locating and collecting the roots, bark, leaves and seeds from specific plants and then cleaning, drying and combining them is very time consuming and not something your average Indonesian girl dreams of doing. These days she’d rather be working in a spa, thank you very much. But for those of us fascinated by rapidly disappearing traditional dying techniques, there’s an easy and pleasant way to learn about them. I recently took a half-day traditional dye workshop which renewed my respect and interest in this millennia-old art. The workshop is a snapshot of Indonesia’s rich and complex heritage of dying and batik. Threads of Life in Ubud with its sister organisation Bebali Foundation is dedicated to keeping alive traditional dying and weaving techniques in Indonesia. These are rapidly disappearing everywhere as the forests where dye plants grow are cut down and populations migrate to urban areas.
Years of research by the Foundation, with support from Kew Gardens in England, has collected a vast database of dye plants in Indonesia. The Bebali Foundation recently opened a dye garden and studio in Petulu, just 10 minutes north of Ubud, where visitors can see the plants, watch the traditional dye extraction techniques and create their own batiks using these dyes. It’s a tranquil vortex of dyecrafting, surrounded by indigo bushes and rice fields. Master dyers I Made Maduarta (Pung), Komang Sujata and I Wayan Sukadana (Frog) have been studying traditional techniques for over a decade and their knowledge of the plants and complex chemistry involved is encyclopaedic for those who are interested in the process. If you’d rather just get straight to work on your own batik, that’s fine too. Blue dominates the palette. The blue colour is from indigo, the plant whose modest leaves produce the richest of hues. In some communities, the recipes for indigo dye are sacred and secret. As with all plant dyes, the knowledge of which colours can be coaxed from which plant parts was passed on orally through hundreds of generations. And it’s not just about the colour; it’s complicated. Red dyes need to be applied with very specific mordants to help the dye adhere permanently to the fibres. These mordants might be roots, leaves, nuts or bark. The Foundation gathers them from sustainable sources in Flores, Papua, Timor and other islands to be prepared and packaged at the studio. India was a major producer and international exporter of indigo in ancient times, so the plant may have come to Indonesia through early Indian traders. The colour was integrated into textiles as they evolved across the archipelago. The indigo UbudLife 45
leaves are best picked once the rains begin and the fruits are still young. Leaves are fermented in alkaline water for 24 hours, then removed. The water is mixed with lime and agitated to precipitate the colour which is collected as a paste at the bottom of the vessel. It takes five kg of leaves and two days to produce 200 grams of this rich, blue paste. Maybe that’s why a pair of natural indigo dyed jeans can set you back $850. Red dye is made using shavings of the very hard morinda root. A dense black is achieved by immersing the cloth in mineral-rich mud holes in Timor. Yellow is more challenging, as the best colour is from the heartwood of a tree that takes 20 years to mature and is thus not sustainable, although jackfruit, when properly prepared, also produces a colourfast yellow. But for the workshop, visitors work with indigo. When visitors are ready to make their own batik, they move to slanted tables where squares of cotton are pinned in readiness. This is where the true depth of batik’s cultural and artistic heritage become apparent. The pattern is drawn on the cloth using a canting, which delivers a delicate stream of wax-based resist. Artists in Java still create incredibly complex, tiny motifs and
multiple colours on 2.5 m sarongs, a process that can take months of highly skilled work. Faced with just one small square of cloth and a single dye colour, the task still seems daunting. It takes concentration to create the resist pattern without splashing the wax. The cloth makes several trips to the indigo bath and is dried with a hairdryer to hurry the process along in order to get the desired depth of blue in a few hours. When making traditional weavings the fibres are left in the indigo baths for extended periods of time, dried in the sun and re-immersed to obtain a deep saturation of colour, a process which can take months. (The Threads of Life Gallery on Jalan Kajeng has excellent exhibits of traditional dying and weaving methods.) At the end of the class there’s a sense of real achievement, and a deeper understanding of just how much time, artistry and complexity is reflected in creating a fine batik. The workshop has space for up to six students at a time and the cost of Rp 350,000 per student includes transport to and from Ubud and all materials. A delicious vegetarian lunch is available on request. To book a class, contact Threads of Life Gallery 361-972187 or tac@threadsoflife.com
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48 UbudLife
PERSONALITY
RON SEIVERTSON richard horstman • images jill alexander
What’s on the horizon Ron? “The future is exciting!” Is his lightning response. Being well aware of Ron’s persona, I am immediately taken with his zest. Let me describe Ron Seivertson so you can imagine him in your minds eye. Intelligent and witty, dynamic and fascinating, Seivertson is a highly artistic being - the type of wild and wonderful expat character that Ubud is renowned for. Not only is he a talented amateur singer, song writer and guitarist, but his driving passion in life is for one of the most captivating creative expressions you are likely to witness - the art of blowing and sculpting hot glass. Ron Seivertson is the founder and proprietor of one of Bali’s most interesting centres - Horizon Glassworks. Being a witness to Seivertson at work and his energy and precision, while enduring enormous heat and rigorous physical activity, is enthralling and will be permanently encoded upon your mind. One of the first questions that springs forth as he magically gathers, spins, shapes and forges molten glass into extraordinary forms right before your eyes is, how on earth does he do that? The answer is quite simple, dedication and skill, along with endless hours of practice. “I have recently completed plans for a large new workshop facility,” Seivertson says. “It includes 4 studios at the back of the current horizon property, one with a warm glass kiln, another a studio for hot cast glass, a mixed media studio and a bronze casting foundry; the first of its kind in Bali.” My imagination went into overdrive as I sensed the breadth of this concept. “These are all learning studios, as well as this being a viable business venture. Of course the bronze foundry will be a godsend for local and foreign sculptors helping to realize the potential of traditional and contemporary sculpture in Bali.” Born 1961 in Sacramento, California, USA, Seivertson had been working out of the States, yet with a house here in Bali, decided to relocate the studio to Ubud and Horizon Glassworks was born some 9 years ago. The original location was 5 kilometres north of the current multi story showroom and studio complex. It opened in January 2014, and is located on Jalan Raya Negari, 15 minutes south from Ubud. UbudLife 49
“The market for our products is global, along with the market for education. We have teachers from all over the world who wish to come here and work and many people are interested in this new venture. Horizon is open to the public and people walk straight in off the street and witness the world of glass making. Visitors often watch mesmerized, and absolutely love the experience,” he says. “We have always had workshops available to the public.” The new Horizon complex features a 3 storey, 1000 square meter display area and a hot shop of 360 square meters with a variety of kilns and production facilities. The new master plan includes a large multi purpose function room on the lower level and a seventy seat bistro. Unbeknownst to Seivertson when he was initially captured by the hot glass bug, he discovered that his family has a history of glass making in Northern Europe reaching back over two centuries. He vividly recalled to me the day when, travelling through the mid USA, as a retired construction worker, he wandered into a hot glass workshop and experienced an enormous and unique energy exchange. The guy working the glass then looked him straight in the eye and said, “Hey bro, glass is for you!” “This was the most profound experience of my life.” he said. Immediately he knew he needed to 50 UbudLife
This is a world class project, one of the most advanced and technically challenging ever undertaken. It required enormous skill, passion and ability, along with the dedication and relentless trial and error to produce unique pieces that would justifiably be at home in any international museum. These works are luminous and pulsating with life. “My creative process is highly intuitive, while often I sense there is a metaphysical relationship at play. Working with hot glass talks to my heart and soul.” “Now,” Seivertson says. “I feel as if I am now experiencing a second calling. The business is unsustainable so we need to diversify and after a decade of experience, and considering the developmental stage of my career, its time to give my knowledge away and to teach others the skills. At Horizon we wish to be part of the continuum and see a new generation carry on the art.”
I believe we each have a calling, an essence that is deeply personal and draws us to our own creative passions.” Trained at the world-recognised centre for hot glass, Pilchuck Glass School in Washington State, Seivertson’s talents were firmly set and along with a host of other glass masters, he has strived to push this art form to new creative limits at Horizon. Such a cutting edge project was the Glass Age Series created in two six week sessions in 2009-10 by a team of international artists. Requiring an enormous budget, this 135 piece collection, featured Java Man, an anatomically accurate pre-Neolithic Homo erectus skeleton, plus full-sized spears, a saber-toothed tiger skull, and numerous other historical impressionistic artifacts.
“There is a great need to provide a facility to teach this art as some trades are dying out. If we succeed in bringing people here from Asia, a region without a glass making history, this will be a boon. We are networking with institutes throughout Indonesia and many are already coming to study our work, all without too much effort on our behalf.” The future may be both exciting and daunting for some, yet for Ron Seivertson the future cannot come too soon. Horizon Glassworks offers beginner to advanced glass blowing instruction courses, from 2.5 hour lessons to month-long artist in residence programs for glass art professionals.... Horizon Glassworks, Jalan Raya Negari (0361) 7804014 www.HorizonGlassworks.com UbudLife 51
BALIFREEMAP 9TH EDITION MAR - MAY 2015
From Denpasar, we reach across the island - everywhere in bali! make your advertising dollar go further and be seen on our new big Bali Map!
For further information and advertising bookings: PERSADA MEDIA PUBLISHING - BALI P: [0361] 8447982 • M: 081139 4755 E: putu@persadamediapublishing.com
ubud palace-open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini arma-open stage ubud water palace-open stage bentuyung village batu karu temple-open stage
7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm
legong dances barong & keris dance kecak ramayana & fire dance legong telek women performance
ubud palace-open stage wantilan padang tegal kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage arma-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod
7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm
tue
ramayana ballet kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance trance culture
ubud palace-open stage jaba pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod kertha accommodation-monkey forest st pura dalem ubud-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod
7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm
wed
legong & barong dance mask dance [topeng jimat] wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance kecak fire & trance dance jegog [bamboo gamelan]
ubud palace-open stage arma-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini yamasari stage-peliatan open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage pura dalem ubud-open stage
7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.00 pm
thu
kecak [monkey chant dance] legong dance the barong & keris dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet]
puri agung peliatan jaba pura desa kutuh pura dalem ubud-open stage pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod bale banjar ubud kelod pondok bambu-monkey forest st
7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm
fri
barong dance legong dance kecak and fire dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] jegog [bamboo gamelan] barong & keris dance
ubud palace-open stage balerung stage peliatan pura padang kertha-padang tegal kelod ubud main road-oka kartini bentuyung village arma-open stage
7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.00 pm 5.30 pm
legong dance legong dance frog dance legong dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong
ubud palace-open stage ubud water palace bale banjar ubud kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage pura dalem taman kaja-open stage arma-open stage
7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm
every 1st and 15th: gambuh dance
pura desa batuan-open stage
7.00 pm
mon sun
legong of mahabrata kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance janger dance jegog [bamboo gamelan] kecak fire & trance dance
sat
ubud cultural dance performances
54 UbudLife
TIPS
pura protocol
Tips for how to visit one of Bali’s fabulous temples As visitors to Bali we like to know how to visit a temple graciously. Here are a few guidelines to help make a visit more enjoyable. Enjoy! The Balinese are quite open and generally welcome visitors. You can enter most temples freely. Wear a sash around the waist and preferably a sarong. Big temples can hire a sarong at the front gate but it is nice to have your own. You can buy a sash and sarong at Ubud market or Sukawati where the choice is limitless. When there is a ceremony on, the Balinese believe the gods have descended to the temple for the duration. All prayer and dance is performed for the benefit of the gods rather than the tourists. Be respectful. Women who are menstruating must wait outside. Priests (Pedanda) are well respected and the most important person at the ceremony. They occupy the highest position. Show respect and don’t try to climb on scaffolding or steps higher than the officiating priest to get a better view or photo. If you visit a holy spring like Pura Tirtha Empul and decide to try bathing, keep your clothes on and leave the shampoo behind. It is not a bath, but an immersion in holy water, for a spiritual cleansing. Expect to pay a small donation before entering a temple. These donations are put to good use, and help with the upkeep of the grounds and the temple itself....
TO WELCOME WHAT COMES IN
by luciana stiguelboim • image ayu sekar
I’m stuck on old patterns, on the ideallet die. I want to learn, once and a chance to what lives on the
ized memories of a story that I resist to for all, to turn around and give other side.
While taking an early suddenly struck by a and I intend to folto watch the sunset watch the side from comes in.
walk by the beach, I’m de-structuring impulse, low it: today I want backwards. I mean, where the darkness
It may sound omijust the fear of she holding on to the old this posture, the new is a wounded child, is fright-
nous, but I think it’s who is desperately and familiar. From dark night that she, as a ened of accepting.
I’ve spent my whole life saying goodbye to the sun, watching it sink into horizons while I revel in nostalgia of an ending that really hurts even though the next day always proves it false. It’s an attitude that seems overly familiar to me… A ritual whose identically obsessive repetition I consider, all of a sudden, to be as ridiculous as it would be to watch the sunrise with my eyes fixed on the corner through which the night slips away. It’s time to be strong and dare to turn my back on the familiar glow, to focus my attention on the beauty left for me by its departure. To give myself to the vertigo of abdicating my usual post. To open myself to recognizing that the sunset (as the sunrise) occupies the whole sky. After all, isn’t it much more sensible and polite to welcome the in-coming rather than to hold on to what must, naturally and inevitably, leave? Welcome the lilac that will grow blue, oblivious to those who ignore it out of custom or convention. It might me less spectacular but, honestly, at this stage I prefer to be acquainted with the serene emotion brought by that which comes to change the lives of those who risk their identities for the joy of receiving it. On the other side, rebirth awaits me. I will admire the sun when it comes in, when it reappears with a new face, worthy protagonist of my present.
...
www.lucianasiguelboim.com
The fate of a piece of land by jean couteau • image windia
A
nak Agung Lingsir, the old prince of Abian Gombal, was now back outside, sitting cross - legged on the verandah of his old pesaren pavilion. He was lost in thoughts. He had had a near call with death, but now, with the fever gone and having lost a few pounds, he could once again run the affairs of his state. There had been a big exorcism to cleanse the grubug (deadly epidemic) from the land, and send back the evil spirits to where they belonged. Again on track, the village heads (mekel) were bringing him his due share of the crops, and the patihs (ministers) patrolling the border of the land. But A.A. Lingsir often recalled the hand, which had kneaded his head in the worst of his throes, when all the priests had failed, despite their magical concoctions and prayers. He was well aware that he owed his life to Pan Oblong, the balian (witch doctor) from Dauh Pangkung, and thus he had summoned him to the palace. He was thus still sitting, slowly massaging the scraggy limbs of his champion cock, when he saw a man approaching with one of the patihs, his hands clasped and bowing repeatedly. It was, as expected Nang Oblong, the balian. The old man glanced at his lord and then, bowing again, sat on the lower steps, his hands clasped, waiting in awe. “Kene, Blong,” started Anak Agung Lingsir, stopping a while to spit out the tobacco he had kept under his tongue,”you are old and poor, with seven sons to feed. But it is through your help that the Batara (god) has shown mercy on me. I thus want your family to be bound to my house. Listen, Blong, all the land belonging to me to the North of the river I bestow upon you, as long as you and your sons have heirs, and as long as you remember your duties toward my puri (princely house).”
OPINION This is how Oblong knew that he had had land given to him. He had thanked the prince profusely and had taken possession of the place. His Lord’s word was law, and Oblong did not feel the need, nor did he dare to ask, to have his lord’s will written down on lontar palm-leaf, as he knew a brahmin had done. He believed in his lord. Since then, each time there was a summons, they were to be the first, he and his family, to show up, be it to contribute bamboo for the building a of ceremonial platform or for a show of force at the border of the state. Oblong had become a faithful parekan (dependant) of the prince. Then the old prince died, and later so did Oblong. His sons carried on their duty. “We belong to the puri,” they would say, and thus were faithful to its prince. According to their talent, and upon their prince’s request, one would teach dance, another carve the doors of a restored building, a third one would have one of his daughters living at the puri and all gave bamboo, rice from the crop and indeed free labor. These were the ways of the time. A “feudality” of sorts, but balanced by a strong network of interpersonal bonds and exchanges. Then came the Dutch and independence. The land was registered at the Land Office. The pipil (indigenous tax registration papers) were still in the name of the prince, but on the ground nothing had changed: Oblong’s great-grand sons still used the land and still paid their duties to their princely lord. Later, however, came the time when the sons of the prince were no more prince of a village, but city dwellers. One was the head of a bank in Denpasar, another a high official in Jakarta. Only the old Gung Lingsir was still living in the old puri of Abian Gombal. He was the last one in
the palace who still knew the “rights and duties” between his house and Oblong’s descendants. Then, he died. Upon his death, Gabler and Kocong, Oblong’s great grand sons, again showed up, faithful as ever, collecting the bamboo and helping to build the cremation tower. It was “their” prince who had died, and they felt they “belonged” to his house. Anak Agung Anom and Anak Agung Putra, however, did not see themselves as feudal princes anymore, but as modern businessmen. Although they still felt good to be treated as lords, they relied on law and contracts. They believed in “papers,” while their fathers had believed in oral engagements. And these engagements, perhaps still valid within the village, were mere “words” outside it. So what happened? Shuffling through the mansion’s documents after their father’s death, they came upon the old pipil of Oblong’s land. That their ancestor had neglected to change its status did not matter. To them it was still princely land. In need of money they decided to sell it. This is how Oblong’s descendants lost the control of their land. There have been more than a few Oblong and Anak Agung Lingsir in Bali. And there are many A.A Putra, A.A.Anom, Kocong and Gabler. As land gains value and becomes a commodity, and as the old communal and feudal bonds weaken, old “promises” and “rights” lose their power of law or are just forgotten. Sometimes, the self-righteous heirs sue and expel the Kocongs and Gablers; at other times, they acknowledge the “service” performed by their former palace’s dependants and compensate them. Only one thing is certain: Money is wreaking havoc upon what remains of the old social structure of Balinese villages.
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UbudLife 65
WWW.SENSATIA.COM
Sensatia - it’s a sensation!
S
ensatia is the newest natural product company to emerge in the retail scene in Bali. Founded in 1999, It is only recently that they have opened their store in Ubud and another at their GMP Certified production facility in Jasri, Karangasem - a remote fishing village on the east coast. Sensatia employs a slew of local producers – providing sustenance for loofah growers, seaweed and salt harvesters, herbal lulur makers, coconut harvesters and fruit and vegetable growers. Probably one hundred or more Local Balinese make a good living working with this enlightened company. Everything is ethically produced, using holistic and organic practices. Not only do they use pure organic ingredients – sea salt from the east coast flower essences from the islands. Body butters, body milk, divine bath salts, health enhancing essential oils of the highest standard, as well as anti aging oils for the face, are all part of their ever growing product list. While sourcing and production is local, standards are international and with a head office in New York, well we know that is one tough market!
Mmm later after being refreshed, you can anoint your body with the rich and scented body butter (skin cream). There are plenty of other fragrances to discover, but I just cant go past this one. You can drop by their new retail outlet on Jl. Monkey Forest and indulge yourself with the luxury of knowing that these delightful products are also doing you good. They may not be the cheapest but they are probably the best with over 150 products registered with BPOM (Indonesia’s Health Ministry.) Check their Facebook page for newest information and the location of their next new store!... facebook.com/Sensatia <http://facebook.com/ Sensatia> Sensatia Botanicals Jl. Monkey Forest 64, Ubud Kelod, Gianyar T: (62) 361 340 0011 Jl. Pantai Jasri 720, Jasri Kelod, Karangasem T/F: (62) 363 23260 Coming Soon - June 2015 - 2 New Sensatia Shop Locations - The Village Seminyak & BeachWalk Kuta Beach.
Their delightful natural soaps are also worth a look. Made in small well controlled batches, with pure oils and organic ingredients, they are cured for a month before wrapping and packing.. Some use rich Shea butter which is so good for the skin, other just divine fragrance blends. My favorite is the heavenly Cleopatra’s Rose fragrance which is just heaven when your pour some bath salts into a steaming bathtub. UbudLife 67
70 UbudLife
Terracota
Bintang Super Market
Nacho Mama
Putri Bali Spa
Kopi Kat
Sri Ratih & Spa
Skin Spa
Villa Beji
Warung Merta Sari
Bali Healing Griya
Skin Fresh
Nomad
Dolce Arancia
BPD Biah Biah DYPT
Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ar
Milano Spa Mani Silver Down To Earth Bambooku Suravi Spa
Sensatia
Happy
Gedong Sisi
Ubud Sari Health Resort
Red Lotus
White Box
Gunung Merta Bungalow
The Pond
Bale Udang Bebek Tepi Sawah Tepi Sawah Resort N. Sumerta Gallery
WORLD MAP
THE REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA
Pilar Batu
Garden Sopa Sisi Villa Beji Indah
Putri Ubud Spa
Kafe Topi
Biah-Biah+
ISLAND OF BALI
The Pond Damar
Studio Perak
UBUD
UBUD LOCATION Ubud, lies in the heart of Bali, in the centre of the fertile southern rice growing plains. Fertility means much more than the simple sawah or rice fields, it refers to the huge flowering of the arts which happens all around this magical town. Ubud is the home to the arts. Painting, music, dance and gamelan as well as woodcarving, maskmaking and sculpture have attracted visitors for decades. Artists also apply their skills to making attractive things for visitors. Whole streets, like the Tegallalang Road are lined with crafts shop making clever knick knacks to tempt buyers. Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas to view and temples and wonderous sights to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to keep a visitor busy for days. Enjoy!
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UbudLife 71
Night Markets A venture into Indonesia by ayu sekar • images jill alexander
W
hen we stay in the warm embrace of Ubud’s soft feminine energy, we sometimes forget which island we are on, let alone which country. So just sometimes, it is a pleasure to make a foray out of Ubud and see something typically Indonesian – like a colourful night market. In the good old days, Ubud used to have its own night market in the parking space of the Ubud Market. Sadly, due to pressure from local restauranteurs and who knows who else, the market folded and the vendors moved their kaki lima food carts off to more sympathetic venues. The outcome is that now, if we wish to experience the delicious delights of Indonesian hawker food we need to venture out of Ubud town. So Ubud Life went to explore some of the more interesting night markets, not too far away. Some people take a tour, but really seeing people being led around a night market with all the sense of discovery removed is a bit much for this intrepid explorer. But if you like to feel safe – it is certainly an option. Best is the Pasar Sengol in Gianyar town. Every day in the late afternoon, vendors can be seen wheeling or driving their portable stalls in to place to create makeshift restaurants , food stalls, table seating and also clothing venues. The market is in two parts – on the main road are all the largest and most established stalls, set up with tables, chairs, drinks and even napkins. Here is where you will find the best babi guling – Bali’s luscious roasted pork that Gianyar is famous for. It used to be
washed down with a glass or two of tuak- the ubiquitous palm wine, but strangely, it seems to have disappeared from the menu! Another victim of gentrification no doubt! Other stalls sell satay kambing – or goat sate and a creamy coconut curry soup, all served with rice. Try it, you wont believe how delicious and warming it is. Others still, sell a kind of chicken nasi campur – or mixed rice. Chicken comes cooked a la betutu, fried, stewed and barbequed – you taste a little bit of each. It all comes with a serving or two of delicious vegetables which you get to chose from the stunning array – beansprouts, greens of several varieties, and more. Just look for the stall with the longest queue. That of course, is where the best dishes will be selling. Or cross the road, and enter the gates of the Pasar Sengol. Guarding the entrance are flower and offering sellers, whose sweet aromas perfume the cool night air. Inside are smaller food carts and a host of fun wares. Kitchen wares, bags, DVDs, gewgaws and trinkets interspersed with food stalls. Buy and try you wont die, and you may even enjoy. It is possible you won’t know what they are selling but this is where your senses come into play. Look smell, touch, get involved. It is a delightful meditation and a journey in to this wonderful country we are all guests of.
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UbudLife 73
LEGEND:
Provincial capital
Town
Places of interest
Village
Mountain
MENJANGAN ISLAND
BAL
Pemuteran Reef Building
Secret Bay
Gilimanuk Ja v a Fe rr y to Cekik
LETKOL WISNU AIRSTRIP Pulaki Banyupoh Kertakawat Pemuteran Gondol Melanting Penyabangan Musi
Sumberkelampok
Blimbingsari
Klatakan Sumbersari
Gerokgak
Mt. Musi 1224
Mt. Merbuk 1386
Antur
Lovina
Gobleg
Bestala Mayong Busungbiu
Tambling Mund
BA
Subuk
LI
Candikusuma
ST
Pupuan Pujungan Mt
Tegalasih
R
Airanakan
Pe
a B e a ch
Pancoran
Mt. Mesehe 1344
Pangkungdedari Melaya
vin
Kalibukbuk Labuhan Haji Kaliasem Pengastulan Temukus Kalisada Seririt Dencarik Tigawasa Bubunan Banjar Sidetapa Tegallenga Ringdikit Cempaga Asah Goble
Puri Jati [muck-diving]
Celukan Bawang
Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Bali National Park)
Temple
A
E I S
Lo
Sumberkima Goris Banyuwedang Labuhan lalang
Lake
A
Banyubiru
IT
NEGARA
Cupel Munduk Perancak
Munduk Yehkuning
Batungsel
Tista
Batuagung
Sanda Mendoyo Yehbuah Delod Berawah
Bat
Manggissari Asahduren
Rambutsiwi Yehsumbul Yehembang Pesinggahan Mede wi B eac Medewi h
Belimbing
Ampadan
Balia
Balian Beach
Suraberata Selemad Antosari n B Lalanglinggah Bajera Ba ea ch Soka Soka Bea ch Kerambit Beraban
IN
D
O
N
Tib
E
Tanah
S
IA
C
N
OC
C
EA
N
INT
Padang Sulub
Uluw
Airport/Airstrip
Air Sanih
Sangsit Kubutambahan Beji
Bungkulan
Banyuning
emaron
ran Panji
Bukti
Jagaraga Bila
SINGARAJA
Tamblang
Sukasada
Pacung
Pegayaman
Tejakula Les Tegal
Gitgit
Asahpanji Pancasari
Catur Mt. Catur
Tembok Muntidesa
Bantang Penulisan
Kintamani
Wongaya
Angantiga
Seribatu
Taro Sebatu
bubiyu
Gubug Kediri
Mengwi
Pandakgede Sempidi
h Lot
Mambal
Petak
Petulu
Sidemen Talibeng
Selat
UBUD
Akah
Bedulu
KLUNGKUNG
GIANYAR
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â&#x20AC;&#x153;A cozy place to stay & dine right by the beautiful Candidasa Lagoonâ&#x20AC;? Serving French & Indonesian menu - Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner
Jl. Raya Candidasa no.48 (main road) Candidasa 80851 Karangasem - East Bali T: +62 363 41177 E: le48balihotel@gmail.com www.le48bali.com
CANDIDASA a place for romance words â&#x20AC;˘ image by ayu sekar
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OUT OF TOWN
T
ake a room in a hotel that overlooks the sea and you get a panorama that changes all day. There are plenty of Hotels along the shoreline, not to mention a few fancy villas, if that is more your preference. Breakfast time by the sea is always a pleasure, and as you wander down to a seaside dining room, a different, beautiful world awaits. Friendly staff, morning sun that melts away the misty early morning look, as the sea becomes blue and inviting. There are always a few jukung (fishing sampans) to enliven the view and the whole scene just makes you feel alive. There is plenty to do around Candidasa. Taking a car and driver for a day to explore is always a fun option. You can run into Amlapura – the capital of Karengasem and visit the palaces of the Royal family that ruled there for many centuries. The big bustling market in the centre of town isalways a thrill and if you fossick around in the older section, you will find terra cotta bowls and statues that you can pick up for a song. But don’t be too tough! Everyone needs to live! Tirthagangga and Ujung are both old summer palaces and Tirthagangga’s royal bathing pools have become popular with a much larger number of visitors than in the old days when they were reserved exclusively for royalty.
The traditional village of Tenganan is a favourite with everyone, and the number of amazing ceremonies they enjoy needs to be seen to be believed. The very dignified folk of this village just seem to take visitors in their stride. Be open and they make like to invite you into their homes to view their arrays of traditional textiles which include their very own gerinsing double ikat handlooms. An old piece made with natural dyes will fetch up to several thousand dollars – well worth it in the eyes of collectors in the know. Of course they have newer, cheaper, pieces to tempt you as well. But if you just want a romantic getaway, stay close to a hotel and pool and just chill. There are plenty of great accommodations in the area and you can look around. Or just go, check the internet and find a place and let the pressures of the world slip away while you sink in to a state of abject relaxation. UbudLife 79
nEXT ISSUE image windia
We visit some mystical places around Ubud. Ubud life explores. Tenganan - everyone’s favourite Traditional village. We visit Bambooku and learn about Bamboo textiles. Sleepovers - always checking new and exciting places for you to enjoy. Food Food Food! - what’s new, what’s good. We look at Hatten wine producers in Bali.
RESTAURANTS Bale Udang Restaurant Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Ubud Phone: 0361 978754 www.baleudang.com
ACCOMMODATION Arma Resort Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976659 www.armaresort.com Cendana Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973243 www.cendanaresort-spa.com
Lotus Lane Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 975357 www.lotus-restaurants.com
Biah Biah Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: 0361 978249
NOMAD Jl. Raya Ubud 35, Ubud Phone: 0361 977169 www.nomad-bali.com
Biah-Biah+ Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8015124 Bollero Bar & Resto Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 972872 www.bollerobali.com
Kupu Kupu Barong Jl. Kedewatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975478 www.dewanggaubud.com
Cafe Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9x, Ubud Phone: 0361 972706 www.cafedesartistesbali.com
Om Ham Retreat Jl. Tirta Tawar, Ubud Phone: 0361 9000352 www.omhamretreat .com
CP LOUNGE Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com
Melati Cottages Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Ubud Phone: 0361 974650 www.melati-cottages.com
Down To Earth Jl. Gootama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 03617835545
Sri Ratih Cottages Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com
KAFE Jl. Raya Hanoman 48B, Ubud Phone: 0361 970992
Bridges Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com
Gunung Merta Bungalow Jl. Andong, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975463
Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng, Ubud Phone: 0361 974393 www.ubudsari.com
Kebun Jl. Raya Hanoman 44B, Ubud www.kebunbistro.com
Damar Restaurant Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978374 Dolce Arancia Restaurant Jl. Gotama 17, Ubud Phone: 0361 7802381
Sri Ratih Cafe & Jewelry Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Kafe Topi Jl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Phone: 0361 8235151 Warung Sopa Garden Jl. Nyuh Kuning 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 2801340 Warung Alami Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Phone: 081 23913754 Warung Merta Sari Jl. Uma Suke Wayah, Ubud Phone: 0361 2021892 Warung Perancis Jl. Cok Rai 77, Teges, Mas, Ubud Phone: 0361 978109 White Box Jl. Raya Andong, Ubud Phone: 0361 979059 www.whiteboxbali.com
Griya Restaurant Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 975428
NIGHT LIFE
Tepi Sawah Villas Jl. Goa Gajah, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970388 www.tepisawahvillas.com
Gedong Sisi Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 977276 www.gedongsisi.com
CP Lounge Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com
Terrace Abing Resort Banjar Kebon, Tegallalang, Ubud Phone: 0361 980970 www.abingterrace.com
Ibu Rai Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, Ubud Phone: 973472 www.iburai.com
Cafe Havana Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 972973 www.cafehavanabali.com
Villa Beji Indah Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 0361 974168
Juice Ja Cafe Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056
Damar Restaurant, Bar & Lounge Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978374 UbudLife 81
SPAS Aura Theraphy Spa Ubud Aura Retreat Center Jl. Hanoman 888, Ubud Phone: 0361 972956 www.ubudaura.com Bali Healing Spa Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 27997658 www.balihealingspa.com Bali Botanical Day Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976739 FRESH Spa Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493677 KUSH Ayurvedic Rejuvenation Spa Yoga Barn - Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971236 www.yogabarn.com/kush Kayma Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9100017 www.karmaspaubud.com Milano Salon Jl. Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Phone: 0361 973488 prs_milano@yahoo.com Putri Bali Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 7801841 www.putribalispa.com Suravi Spa Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Phone: 0361 4013663 www.suravispa.com Sedona Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975770 www.sedonaspa-ubud.com SKIN Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Gotama 24 & Jl. Sanggingan 36, Ubud Phone: 0361 975615 & 0361 975604 rsvp@ubudSkinOrganic.com Taksu Spa and Restaurant Jl. Gootama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971490 www.taksuspa.com
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SHOPS
GALLERIES
Bambooku Jl. Hanoman 32, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803119 www.bambooku.com
Pilar Batu Gallery Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978197 www.pilarbatu.com
Sensatia Botanicals Jl. Monkey Forest 64, Ubud Phone: 0361 3400011 www.sensatia.com
Sari Api Gallery Contemporary Handmade Ceramic Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 082 3831 5697
Nirmala - Work On Tâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;shirt Jl. Hanoman 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 7475404
Tanah Tho Gallery Jl. Raya Lodtunduh, Ubud Phone: 0361 981482 www.tanahtho.com
Rainbow Spirit Jl. Hanoman 38, Ubud Phone: 0361 3699978 www.rainbowspiritbali.com Studio Perak Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 974244 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 081 236 51809 www.dketut37@yahoo.com
CERAMICS Sari Api Ceramics Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056
SISI Jl.Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Phone: 0361 8235151 www.sisibag.com YIN Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 970718 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 7801879 www.yinjewelryforthesoul.com
ARTISTS Lanang Men [Painter] Jl. Lungsiakan, Ubud Mobile: 082 4652259 Wayan Suarmadi [Painter] Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978197 Wayan Sila [Owl House] Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 977649 | Mobile: 081 8566861
PROPERTY Red Lotus Property Jl. Sukma, Br. Tebesaya, Ubud Phone: 970980 www.redlotusbaliproperty.com
YOGA CENTRE Yoga Barn Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 971236 www.theyogabarn.com Intuitive Flow Jl. Penestanan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 977824 | Mobile: 081 23924649 www.intuitiveflow.com
SPORT/RECREATION
USEFUL NUMBERS Ambulance
Bali Wake Park Jl. Pelabuhan Benoa, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 8468869 www.baliwakepark.com
Airport Authority
Bali Adventure Rafting Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 721480 www.baliadventuretours.co SEPEDA BALI Green Adventure Cycling Jl. Nyuh Bojog, Ubud Phone: 0361 978631 www.sepedabali.com
EAST BALI SECTION Ashyana Candidasa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41359 www.ashyanacandidasa.com Le-Zat Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangase Phone: 0363 41538, 41539 www.balicateringservices.com Le 48 Hotel & Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa 48, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41177 www.lezatbeachrestaurant.com Puri Wirata Dive Resort and Spa Jl. Raya Bunutan, Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23523 www.puriwirata.com
Bali Police Department
227711
Directory Inquiries
108/112
Fire Brigade
113
Immigration
751038
International Red Cros
226465
Post Office Search and Rescue Tirta Ayu Hotel & Restaurant Jl.Tirta Gangga, Karangasem Phone: 0363 22503 www.hoteltirtagangga.com
118 751011
161 751111
Sanglah Public Hospital
227911
Tourist information Center
753540
Time Ubud Tourist Information
103 973286
Villarossa Candidasa Jl.Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 42062 www.villarossa.org Villa Sasoon Jl. Puri Bagus Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41511 www.villasasoon.com Watergarden Hotel Restaurant & Spa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41540 www.watergardenhotel.com
MUSEUMS
CONSULATES Australia
241118
ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum of Art ) Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 974228
Brazil
757775
Czech Republic
286465
Denmark & Norway
701070
Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 975502
French
285485
Germany
288535
Museum Puri Lukisan Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, Gianyar Phone: 975136
Hungary
287701
Italy
701005
Japan
227628
Neka Art Museum Jl. Raya Sanggingan Phone: 975074
Mexico
223266
Netherlands
761502
Pendet Museum Jl. Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 971338
Spain/Portugal
769286
Sweden & Finland
288407
Rudana Museum Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 975779
Switzerland
751735
Unitedkingdom
270601
USA
233605 UbudLife 83
Leave your religion and flip flops at the door, please-
LAST WORD
Mark Ulyseas
Most of us confuse religion with faith. Rituals and ceremonies are man-made. Does God need to be celebrated with the very things He has created? If I was God I would be insulted if my believers landed up at my doorstep bearing things that I had made… Further, if they brought those (offerings) into my home wearing their religion, instead of faith, like flip flops. Today the world is fragmented by a religious fervour that defies logic. Religious symbols have become multinational brands. Outlets are opening on the hour every hour of one brand or another. The enticing neon lights lead many of us into a world of perceived miracles. We make God out to be some cheap magician, waving a magic wand. Could it be that we have tragically misunderstood the message of and from the Universe? Why do we need religious books with rules, the dos and don’ts for followers? Isn’t it enough to honour the Universal Spirit by serving and preserving all life?
Could it be that the human tribe is lost in a desert of self-deceit and self-importance, dangerously flirting with the idea that we are the gods themselves? Has faith become a figment of our imagination and reality, religion?
The human tribe, which is decimating the flora and fauna, has now turned on itself slaughtering its members and making the earth into one large open air abattoir.
Perhaps it would be wise to leave our religion and flip flops at the door of life, and to enter it with our faith.
Millions of children die of hunger every year while people and their pets grow fat on overindulgence. Diet pills and exercise regimes are the fad for fat people who can’t keep their mouth shut.
I shall leave you now with these words of my friend Dr Ivo Coelho, Priest and Philosopher, from his article Faith and Religion – ‘Our spontaneous tendency is to think that we are the lion. But in the end, the lion is God. Faith, I learned, is not something I do for myself. It is a gift.”
Has religion and its attendant paraphernalia of ceremonies succeeded in comforting our conscience; As long we say our prayers, make the stipulated offerings, do penance and pretend to live a ‘religious life’, all will be well?
Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om
...
Mark Ulyseas Publisher/Editor, http://www.liveencounters.net Free online magazine from village earth.
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