Ubud Life 36th Edition

UbudLife guide to ubud & beyond, bali lifestyle, people, arts, yoga, spirit, culture and cuisine

GWK

BALI’S BIGGEST MONUMENT EAT LIKE A LOCAL SPA DEVELOPMENT SULTRY SANUR SEDUCES CLIMB EVERY MOUNTAIN

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EDITOR’S NOTE

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UbudLife MAG Om Swastiastu, Hello and welcome to our Ubud Life Edition 36.

With volcano threats form our holy mountain and trembling earth from neighbouring Lombok, life is exciting and it makes us want to stop and examine what and why we are here.

Life becomes more precious when there is disruption causing us to stop taking things for granted and look at the real state of things.

While folks in Bali have had little more than a scare or some lost roof tiles, those in Lombok have fared much worse, with many houses totally demolished and many people.

Injured. If any of you visitors would like to land a hand, or make a donation, now is the time. There are a number of worthy organisations doing great work to help the newly homeless and who knows, it could make your holiday more memorable than you expected.

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. all material copyright ©2010 (gsb) gemini studio bali. the publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.

THE EDITOR

Cover photo by PT. Siluet Nyoman Nuarta GWK is Bali biggest and most impressive monument!

It is even higher than the famous Eiffel Tower.

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editor ubudlife-gsb team creative graphic designer dedito ssn. photographer i gusti ketut windia sales and marketing ketut muliartani finance yukmang susilawati distribution ubudlife-gsb team contibutors ayu sekar rachel love stephanie m jean couteau chris crerar richard horstman publisher GSB (gemini studio bali) jalan gunung tangkuban perahu III/4, denpasar barat - bali 80361 p: 0361 8495479, 0361 8447982 e: sales@geministudio-bali.com w: www.ubudlife.com director putu santosa

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THE EVOLUTION OF BALI’S SPAS & SPA RETREATS

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BALI’S GARUDA WISNU KENCANA STATUE

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QUIET MIND

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SULTRY SANUR SEDUCES

EAT LIKE A LOCAL

CLIMB EVERY MOUNTAIN

THE EVOLUTION OF BALI’S SPAS SPA RETREATS by rachel love • images by jill alexander

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ince the late 1990s, spas in Bali have sprouted, grown and blossomed like lotus flowers. Traditional and modern body-soothing treatments are available at nearly every hotel, resort and beauty salon. Something that was once the domain of the rich, the privileged and the famous has become accessible to everyone. Bali now hosts the highest concentration of spas in the whole of Southeast Asia, and the island has become a magnet for spa lovers seeking an indulgence that will ease fatigue, stimulate the senses and awaken the spirit.

Bali is infused with a profound spiritual calm, and her spas are a feast for the senses. These timeless, natural havens of serenity are dedicated to the pampering of the body, restoring inner balance and harmony, and replenishing and enlivening the jaded spirit. It is here that the very best ingredients of both Eastern and Western health techniques are gently blended with sweet aromas, mellow sounds and the flourishing greenery of tropical gardens. The architecture and interior décor of Balinese spas ranges from Zen-inspired simplicity to state-of-the-art opulence. Others are romantic, rustic and traditional, featuring antique doors, hand-carved furnishings and whimsical ornaments. Fabrics may be natural loosely-woven cottons in fresh tones of ivory and ecru, or rich luxuriant silks in fiery shades of red, iridescent emerald and deep azure bordered with gold. Products and aromatic oils are stored in recycled glass bottles and jars with cork stoppers or, perhaps, ornate ceramic pots with silver lids that have been embellished with semi-precious stones.

Water is always a key element in Balinese spas – not surprisingly, as it is bountifully provided by the rains and the sea, and ritualised by the Hindus in the form of holy water.

Open-air bathrooms and pavilions house outdoor showers; oversized sunken bathtubs brim with rose petals; tranquil lotus ponds are garnished with moss-encrusted statues and

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cascading fountains are the backdrops of exotic blooms.

The sense of smell is embraced by a seductive layering of scents emanating from essential oils, spicy smouldering incense, aromatic candles and fragrant flowers. Accompanied by a background melody of enigmatic music, birdsong and trickling water, guests are massaged and eased into a higher dimension of lingering bliss.

The spa therapists are well trained, well mannered and immaculately attired. They offer all of their treatments with devotion and skill. Timehonoured herbal remedies utilise healing plants and spices that are harvested from the spa garden, such as galangal, aloe vera, avocado, lemongrass, turmeric and papaya – the bounty of Bali’s own medicine chest.

Spa menus offer traditional healing therapies such as the ‘Balinese Boreh’, which has been used by Balinese villagers for many generations to relieve muscular aches and

BALI’S SPAS pains and boost circulation after long days of toiling in the rice fields. Nourishing beauty rituals include the Javanese ‘Mandi Lulur’ which originated centuries ago in the palaces of central Java.

Even in the busiest tourist areas it is possible to find peaceful oases hidden away down narrow side streets removed from the humdrum and noise of the traffic. Others are to be found in quiet corners within the tropical gardens of boutique hotels and family resorts. Rice fields provide another tranquil setting.

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image cortesy of maya resort and spa

The physical and spiritual heart of the island is perhaps the most magical setting for a spa retreat. These exclusive hideaways have evolved from the holistic concept of healing and nurturing both the inner and outer self.

Often situated beside the jungle, rainforest or riverside, they offer the opportunity to enjoy an organic spa cuisine yielded by a fertile earth that is still pure and unharmed by chemicals. Those who are sufficiently focused will be aware of a powerful energy in some of these locations; these are the places where you can cleanse your soul and bathe in river pools or rock-lined pools that are watered by holy springs. Furthermore, in an environment encompassed by raw nature, you can meditate, undisturbed, in the untouched forest in the knowledge that the creation of such sanctuaries demanded the preservation of the existing trees and vegetation, together with the protection of the river and the indigenous wildlife.

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Utilising the products of nature’s resources and neighbouring village remedies, together with supporting the local Balinese community, are elements of the universal concepts of these retreats Most of Bali’s holistic retreats offer an extensive spa menu. In addition to traditional Balinese massage, treatments may include Ayurvedics, hot stone massage, Thai massage, and barefoot Shiatsu. Energy healing may include Watsu, in which the participant floats effortlessly while receiving gentle, water-assisted massage and stretches; chakra balancing sessions; craniosacral therapy; Reiki; and Chi Nei Tsang. Facilities may include saunas and medicated steam rooms, swimming pools, fitness centres and sports facilities. Activities may include yoga, pilates, martial arts and meditation. A stay at such a sanctuary can be a profound learning experience, and a chance to acquire some

new skills, possibly with the expertise of a Visiting Master.

This rebalancing and enriching of mind, body and soul will, in turn, lead to the enhancement of relationships. Some retreats offer additional programmes such as aromatherapy classes and cooking schools. Guests are invited to encounter and appreciate nature and the Balinese culture, and outbound activities might include jungle trekking and birdwatching. Couples are always pampered in romantic packages that give them an opportunity to enjoy time with each other. They are treated to aphrodisiac delicacies and candlelit dinners. Spa Cuisine is wholesome and healthy; menus are innovative and very often personalised. Vegans are always catered for; guests can savour raw foods as well as local and international dishes, while freshly pressed tropical fruit juices are served in abundance.

A stay at one of Bali’s magnificent spa retreats can be an experience of total escape for the complete duration of your holiday, while for those who haven’t got so much time (and for whom, therefore, a retreat is probably essential) a weekend break might be just the ticket.

If you chose to be pampered at a spa in Bali, you will most certainly be spoilt for choice!

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happenings around ubud

air bali helicopters

PRAYING FOR LOMBOK The recent series of earthquakes in Lombok has left many people shattered and homeless, many left with nothing more than what they are standing in. Some had no food or even water for several days until help arrived. On this occaision, the Indonesian Government has waived permit regulations, so that anybody who wishes to volunteer and offer their services is welcome. People from all over have lent their hands and heart to help and while donations are flowing in, more is needed for rebuilding homes and lives.

BAWA is also helping as so many dogs and animals have been left and abandoned, so they have a feeding program for the animals.

If you would like to donate or lend a hand, here are some addresses: Bumi Sehat-http://www bumisehatfoundation.org BAWA – http://www.bawabali.com Kopernik have also been doing a wonderful job – you can donate though their website http://www.bit.ly/kopernik-lombok Or direct transfer to: Bank Mandiri Branch – KCP Ubud 14510 A?C, Name: Yayasan Kopernik ACC NO – 145-00-1804889-8 SWIFT-BMRIIDJA 16 UbudLife

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HEALING WITH SOUND AT TAKSU Taksu now have their own sound healing therapies available. Its “not just an auditory experience. It’s like receiving a full body sound massage!” says a Taksu spokesman. Kate Wiese gives the therapy. With a Masters Degree in Music Education and Special Education, and over 16 years experience in teaching music in the USA, she became aware of the power of sound and its healing potential.

She trained with Gong Masters and Master Sound Healers in the USA, Indonesia, and India and together with Reiki Master skills, Matrix Energetics and Theta Healing practitioner, she comes very well equipped.

Her Sacred Sound Baths held at Taksu almost daily, begin with a brief introduction for those who are new to the experience. You will then be invited to lie down on a comfortable mat. Simply close your eyes, relax and let the sound carry you on the most relaxing journey.

the receiver, inducing a deep meditative and peaceful state. Many people fall into a deep, healing and then emerge from the experience feeling lighter, more balanced, refreshed, and very peaceful. To be honest, it was one of the best sound healings I have experienced.

The variety of gongs and other instruments just washes and vibrates through you in an extraordinary manner.

The harmonic vibrations produced by ancient and sacred instruments deeply penetrate

Kate is also available for private sessions.

Follow her on Instagram : @GongingForJoy

PHOTO TOURS Want to improve your photography?

Then check in for a photo tour with David Metcalf who will take you to some very cool locations in Bali’s hinterland.

Discovering Bali with a professional photographer will take you on a journey where you encounter the faces of the market, photograph stunning landscapes away from BaIi’s tourist icons and discover back roads where experiences unfold as the photography inspires. https://www.davidmetcalfphotography.com/full-day-and-half-day-photo-tour-bali/ 18 UbudLife

IS PENGOSEKAN THE NEW FOOD STREET? The stretch of road that starts at lower Jl Hanoman and continues to the Pertamina petrol station and beyond has an astonishing number of more than 30 restaurants and eateries offering everything imaginable. Suddenly they are everywhere! From the cute new Lovster that serves “lobster fast food” (to be investigated soon, to the pleasant Ubudian with tables facing the road, and around the corner is the wonderful ARMA art museum and their new Kumpul Kopi where you can enjoy coffee or a meal right in the gorgeous grounds. Next door is the authentic Argentian, Batubara barbeque restaurant and the Nostimo Greek Restaurant is right across the road.

Warung Enak serves up great pan Indonesian food with specialties from across the archipelago and nearby, Taco Casa has the best tacos in town.

Kedaton serves great Indonesian food as well and the Panorama Hotel has a lovely outside lounge bar facing the street, perfect for an evening cocktail.

Past Pertamina, Pizza Bagus serves up pasta and pizza and more, in air conditioned comfort and the Maison has Indian food. Whatever you are looking for could just be in this delightful stretch.

Don’t forget to check it out. Of course, vegetarian, Japanese, Thai and more Italian choices are also available.

wirasathya darmaja

UBUD WRITERS AND READERS FESTIVAL Come 24-28th October, and it is time for the annual Ubud Writers and Readers Festival – five fun filled days of writers reading, and readers taking notes or buying books.

This year more than 160 writers and activists will take the stage in a series of talks, discussion panels, workshops, and special events.

The opening and closing ceremonies are always illuminating and there are plenty of special events tied in with the festival as well as workshops and talks. Whether a fully paid up subscriber, or one who subscribes to just some of the events, it is always worth attending.

The Festival is centred at Indus Restaurant in Sanggingan, with many events at the lovely Museum Neka, just up the road, opposite Naughty Nuris, for those who need a quick break. This is the festival’s 15th year and of course it is an Ubud institution, an important mark on Ubud’s annual calendar. www.ubudwritersfestival.com UbudLife 19

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INNOVATIONS

Bali’s Garuda Wisnu Kencana

an extraordinary cultural icon by richard horstman • images by pt. siluet nyoman nuarta

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tanding atop a hill in Jimbaran, the Garuda Wisnu Kencana Statue, Bali’s newest cultural icon, (and the biggest) is now open and ready to be admired. Created by award winning Balinese sculptor Nyoman Nuarta (often cited as Indonesia’s most successful contemporary artist and certainly the creator of numerous colossal public artworks), it is impressive in the extreme.

This enormous 22,000 square meters Garuda Wisnu Statue, GWK is the show piece of the Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park in Jimbaran. The 75-meter tall, 65-meter wide statue sits atop of a pedestal with the total height of 121 meters. It is the second tallest statue in the world, just shorter than the Spring Temple Buddha in China. It has also turned out to be the most challenging of the sculptor’s illustrious career.

“The idea of building GWK first come to mind in the late 1980’s, when I was already a well

established sculptor, living in Bandung,” says Nuarta who was born in Tabanan, Central Bali in 1951.

“The statue’s concept, and the cultural park were conceived by the GWK Foundation, a group consisting of two ministers of the then Suharto government, including Joop Ave Minister of Tourism, Post and Telecommunications, myself, and a few individuals and businessmen close to President Suharto,” Nuarta added. “I was then commissioned to build a giant statue of the Hindu God Wisnu perched upon the back of his sacred cosmic vehicle, the mythical Garuda bird.”

The GWK Cultural Park, set in limestone hills on a 60-hectare site, first began construction late in 1996. From the outset, the idea was met with controversy.

Balinese religious authorities objected that the statue’s immense size would disturb the spiritual balance of the island, and they opposed the sacred symbol being used as a commercial tourist attraction. The project was pushed through, however, by those who argued UbudLife 23

that it would bring in more tourists and revenue to Bali.

“GWK had to sustain the paralysing effects of a political regime change, a nationwide financial crisis, conflicts within the project’s management structures, and more,”Nuarta said.

Problems began in early 1997, when the original budget estimate inflated by hundreds of billions of rupiah. The project came to an abrupt halt in July when the Indonesian economy collapsed in the Asian Financial Crisis, followed by the fall of the Suharto government in May 1998. Other complexities shadowed, including complications between GWK investors. After a 16-year delay an extra IDR 450 billion in finance was committed, in August 2013 another chapter in the statue’s construction began, only to be paused again, early in 2015. Since 2016, however, its progress has been steady.

“We hope that we could introduce different cultures of the world through our main mission, the GWK World Cultural Forum. The forum’s goal is to educate people to become more understanding towards other cultures.

So in the end the main objective of the GWK Statue and Cultural Park is world peace,” Nuarta, said.

At the beginning of the project Nuarta understood that the Balinese tourism industry relied too heavily on cultural heritage alone and this was unsettling for him. “There were only minimal efforts from the government, private and public sectors to sustain the tourism industry. I understood that we needed to build a place where our heritage can be both protected and also be developed.” Nuarta is aware of the distinctive creative potential of his island and the future possibility of contributing something completely unique to the sphere of global art.

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“I used the image of Garuda and Lord Wisnu as Wisnu is a symbol of courage and loyalty.

The Balinese consider Wisnu, the preserver of life, as the most important God of the three (Siva, Wisnu & Brahma), yet Wisnu is also responsible for cosmic balance and harmony of all life. The statue, therefore, symbolizes a universal calling for all people in this world to play their parts in nurturing and protecting the Earth,” Nuarta stated.

Made of copper and brass sheeting, and stainless steel framework, imported from Japan, Europe and Latin America the statue has been constructed in Nuarta’s workshop in West Java. The outer parts of the statue were cut into 700 modules, each weighing on average 800 kilograms, and transported to Bali by 400 individual trucks journeys. A crew of over 200 personnel from various academic and cultural backgrounds then systematically began assembling the modules on site.

Situated upon the windy Ungasan ridge, unpredictable weather has been one of the obstacles to the statue’s installation process.

The modules were lifted up by two cranes and bolted onto the framework by workers who specialize in high altitude construction.

Rigorous scientific integrity testing has been undertaken on all the construction materials and the statue itself, even taking earthquake resistance into account with the pedestal being able to withstand up to 8 on the Richter scale. Wind tunnel tests have indicated the statue, the largest in Indonesia, could withstand winds speeds of up to 259 nautical miles per hour.

Scheduled originally for completion in March 2019, the project was given the hurry up in mid 2017 by the Indonesian government, ordering the statue be finished before October 2018 when IMF and World Bank delegates are planning to congregate in Bali

for annual meetings to be held from 8 -14 October. As a part of their itinerary a dinner will be held for the delegates at the GWK Festival Park.

“By the 4th of August this extraordinary combination of art, technology and science will be complete,” Nuarta recently said.

“This nation will have a new cultural icon, that, despite taking more than 28 years, and without help from the Indonesian government, it shows that the private sector

can contribute greatly to the nation and state, if we are determined enough to realize our goals.”

“Despite the years of delays this project has taught me to be patient and to never give up on my dreams. Along with big aspirations will come big challenges that come with great risk, and require great effort to overcome.

The best thing that you can do is remain focused and trust in your ability to succeed.”

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SWEET TREATS by sephanie m • images by sayuri, ayu sekar

Satisfy your sweet tooth at these chic cafes and serving up decadent desserts, flaky pastries, bespoke birthday cakes and more.

on the island. The kitchen is helmed by chef Will Goldfarb, who fuses classic European techniques and Asian flavours to create wild concoctions like the Colour of Money crepes with avocado, moringa, cocoa butter and green juice.

The menu changes regularly to reflect the seasons and latest inspirations, as do the cocktail and wine lists, which are carefully curated to complement the desserts. Do yourself a favour and try the tasting menu for two so you can sample and share a wide range of flavours.

Jalan Raya Sanggingan T: 0361 977 002 Open daily 5pm - 11pm

KAFE SAYURI HEALING FOOD If food sensitivities are preventing you from getting in on the dessert action, Sayuri Healing Food may just be your salvation.

This clean-eating cafe has a great selection of sweet treats that are raw, vegan, gluten-free and soy-free. Staples include the tangy triple-berry cheesecake, banana dream pie, and nutfree choco-vanilla cake. They also have other guilt-free bites like nourishing fruit and veggie bowls, raw lasagna, and pizzas.

And if you’re interested in learning how to make your own raw, plant-based cuisine, they can also arrange cooking classes and chef training courses.

Jalan Sukma Kesuma No. 2 | T: 0822 4048 5154 Open daily 7am - 10pm

ROOM4DESSERT Set in a quirky space that was once a nightclub, Room4Dessert offers what are undoubtedly the most innovative desserts

Situated smack dab in the middle of Hanoman Street, KAFE is an easy spot to pop into when you’re craving a sweet or savoury snack.

Swing by in the morning for baked goods like the banana bread and almond croissants, or come by later in the day for indulgences like the vanilla creme brulee, organic mulberry pie and tiramisu.

They also have good a range of raw desserts like the mixed berry cheesecake, orange choco tart and chocolate spirulina mint slice. Be sure to check out their retail section before you go for sweet UbudLife 27

takeaways like peanut caramel and chocolate bars.

Jalan Hanoman 44B T: 0361 479 2078 Open daily 7:30am - 9:30pm

CARAMEL Step off bustling Hanoman Street into Caramel and you find yourself in a cosy space with an irresistible array of goodies including cakes, tarts, chocolate lollipops and their special macarons that come in a variety of flavours like rosella, passion fruit, and red velvet.

The cakes are also pretty impressive with decadent offerings like The Dome with Bailey’s chocolate mousse, salted caramel, and cashew butter. Want to sample before you buy the whole cake?

Grab a coffee and a slice and make your way upstairs to the window seats where you indulge as you watch all the action on the street below Jalan Hanoman T: 0361 970 847 Open daily 9am - 9pm

KUE BAKERY& CAFE For years now Kue has been drawing in the crowds for their freshly baked goods, decadent desserts and homemade chocolates. Enter from the street level and you can peruse the display case 28 UbudLife

for the treats of the day, grab muffins, loaves and fluffy croissants to go, or place orders for customised cakes. Head upstairs and you’ll find a bright and breezy cafe with comfy bench seating and sofas, plus a full menu of tasty cafe eats like omelettes, salads, sandwiches, and pastas.

Jalan Raya Ubud | T: 0361 975 249 | Open daily 7:30am - 9pm

KISMET Kismet is all kinds of cool with funky design and decor, lightning-fast Internet, and a contemporary menu that includes fresh vegetarian fare and plenty of dessert options like the dragon fruit vegan cheesecake, chocolate royal dome, or the ‘kick ass’ banana split. Even better, they also have a dreamy dessert cocktail menu with boozy elixirs that make for the perfect nightcap. Standouts include the espresso martini made with organic espresso and the Drunken Elvis with cashew milk, peanut butter, cacao, banana, Bailey’s, Kahlua, and coconut whipped cream.

Jalan Goutama South No. 27X | T: 0361 908 0702 Open daily 9am - 12am

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Eat Like A Local by sephanie m • images jill alexander, putu santosa

When in Bali, do like the locals do and make your way to one of these cheap and cheerful warungs where the vibes are warm and welcoming and the food is fresh, flavourful, and authentically Indonesian.

Ibu Rai When Ibu Rai’s husband passed away in the 1960s, she was left with the task of raising six young children, so to supplement her meagre income she began selling her traditional Balinese dishes at a roadside stall next to the royal palace. Her infectious energy drew locals and backpackers alike to her table, not to mention her mouthwatering beef ribs and red bean soup. Today her family still carries on her tradition, albeit in much grander digs.

Classic Balinese dishes highlight the menu alongside modern creations featuring exotic Asian spices.

Ibu Rai is busy every night of the year and its something of a phenonomen. Food is well prepared, and well priced. While the menu may contain a few charming east west quirks – like the Calamari fritty and the tar-tar sauce, it doesn’t affect the quality of the food. Try their Zucchini Sticks – breadcrumbed and fried! Delicious! Their fish and chips in beer batter are pretty good too.

Jalan Monkey Forest No.72 | T: 0361 973 472 Open daily 8am - 11pm

Warung Scooting It may be a bit far from Ubud’s main drag, but Warung Scooting is worth the trip for the homey atmosphere and tasty, affordable fare.

Step inside the joglo like structure and you have your choice of long wooden tables or an intimate bale next to a pond. Do yourself a favour and try the signature crispy duck with a blend of Balinese spices and the mujair nyatnyat, fried freshwater fish with a vibrant house made sauce. The food is consistently on point, the portions are generous, and the beer is always cold, which is a definite bonus. ibu rai restaurant

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Jalan Raya Lungsiakan No.2, Kedewatan T: 0812 4677 4696

UBUD EATS

Warung Biah-Biah Conveniently located on buzzing Jalan Goutama (plus a second location in Pengosekan), Warung Biah Biah gets rave reviews for their tasty traditional dishes that you don’t often see on your-run-ofthe-mill menus. Start with a hot or iced jamu made with healing roots and herbs, then dig into delicacies like lawar made with chopped meat, grated coconut, and Balinese spices, special urutan sausage with a side of marinated cabbage, or the fried rice with ayam sambal matah, a spicy blend of shredded chicken, shallots, garlic, lemongrass, and chilies.

local ingredients, and they don’t go overboard with the chilies. However, if you prefer it a bit hotter, just ask them to make it extra spicy.

Specialties include the be siap Gerangasem, a fragrant chicken curry cooked with the bone in, and the lontong mekuah, steamed rice cake with spicy coconut cream sauce and veggies.

Jalan Tirta Tawar | T: 0838 5104 7311 Open daily 8am - 11pm

Jalan Goutama No.13 & Jalan Pengosekan T: 0361 978 249 | Open daily 11am - 11pm

nasi ayam kedewatan bu mangku

Nasi Ayam Kedewatan warung biah biah

Labak Sari Restaurant You can’t beat the views at Labak Sari, a hidden gem tucked away amidst terraced rice fields just past Petulu. Grab a seat in one of the open-sided pavilions and start with a fresh juice or smoothie made with organic fruit.

Everything is cooked from scratch with fresh

Nasi Ayam Kedewatan Bu Mangku only does one dish, but they do it so well that crowds come from all over the island just to get a taste. The specialty is heaping portions of spicy chicken served with white rice, mixed vegetable urab, boiled egg, crunchy peanuts, and minced chicken satay. Be warned though, the heat levels are geared towards local tastes, so they don’t skimp on the spice.

The restaurant also gets insanely busy at lunchtime, so you may want to get in early or a bit later in the afternoon to avoid long waits.

Jalan Raya Kedewatan | T: 0361 974 795 Open daily 7:30am - 6pm UbudLife 35

BALI FREE MAP We reach across the island - everywhere in bali! make your advertising dollar go further and be seen on our complete big BALI MAP!

INFO TEL: 081353320709 or [0361] 8495479

In my dream I can hear a gong, a deep resonating gong.

I wake confused and disorientated, but the gong continues - gong… gong…I realise I’m not dreaming, check my watch – 5.30am – and remember where I am, and why there is a gong prematurely ending my sleep. Reluctantly, I drag myself out of bed, pull on some clothes, rub my eyes and walk off to my first meditation session at the Bali Silent Retreat.

Within 5 minutes, I’m sitting cross legged on a wooden floor, bolstered, in a circle of 12. A single candle in the centre of the circle flickers in the still dark July morning where the cool morning brings out the blankets and hoodies.

We’re all silent, apart from the instructor, who gently guides us into the meditation.

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RETREAT I focus on my breath and attempt to clear my mind. I notice the frogs and crickets chirping, birds in full morning song and the cool breeze on my face. I also remember why I’m here, before six in the morning, with a group of people I do not know, attempting to meditate. I do not react, simply observing and following my breath, but can feel the smile in my mind.

Joining a silent, or meditation, retreat had been on my ‘to do’ list for some years, but the idea of following a Vipassana retreat scared me a little. A friend, who knew I was heading to Bali for a holiday, suggested I look into the Bali Silent Retreat, which was much gentler, with a happy balance that allows people to find their own path.

laughing with a departing guest, while two drivers are leaning over their cars chatting away but we are outside the silent zone.

One of the same reception girls takes me on a welcome tour of the retreat, whispering as she shows me the lodge with its open sides, library and treetop lounge, replete with silent guests, and the food area below. I catch a glance at the evening’s chalkboard menu and instantly start salivating. She explains the daily activities, including meditation, yoga, padi fields and garden tours, plus evening “discussions”, before we head further down the hill, passing extensive food gardens, the yoga bale and meditation labyrinth before arriving at the single rooms, where I’ll stay for the next 6 nights. It’s an “ashram” style room, with a semi-open bathroom, single bed and mosquito net, a bedside table and a chair. It’s decorated simply, but tastefully and is entirely focused toward a fully open balcony side.

The view looks straight out to the jungle and valley beyond, while a large bamboo blind and dark green silk curtains allow the room to be closed off a little at night.

My guide whispers farewell and my silent retreat really begins.

The retreat sits in bucolic Balinese countryside in Tabanan, to the west. Getting there sees towns give way to villages as the roads become country lanes between rice fields and jungle. As my taxi driver pulls into the retreat’s reception area a farmer herds his gaggle of ducks across the driveway, while another is preparing his padi fields for the next planting.

The reception area is surrounded by rice fields yet when I step out of the car, it’s the lack of silence that hits me. The girls at reception are UbudLife 41

Over the next 6 days and nights I move about the retreat, almost entirely without talking, attend morning meditation and yoga sessions, participate in some of the other activities and tours on offer and learn to eat mindfully some of the most delicious vegetarian food I’ve ever eaten.

Bali Silent Retreat gives you choice of the retreat you wish to have. Talking is permitted at the reception area; and outside the retreat if you take a walk through the rice fields, or into a village; and talking is encouraged on tours and when participating in evening discussions.

I found that tuning out of social media takes a couple of days. The retreat asks that you use electronic devices only in your room and invite you to go on a “digital detox” and unplug the Internet. As I get further into my retreat, I feel less need to communicate through social media, instead wanting to be more present and in the moment.

There is no leader, teacher, preacher or “guru” presiding over and directing guests at the Retreat and I realise that Bali Silent Retreat is built around a philosophy of respect and silent reflection.

Over my stay at the retreat, a rhythm to the day begins to emerge. The early morning gong heralds meditation and yoga in the bale, before a second gong announces breakfast.

We all eat silently, mindfully savouring the incredible work of the “kitchen angels”. There are always several activities on offer before the next delicious meal, ending with the alwaysmagnificent dinner buffet!

As we eat in the lodge, to the fading glow of the sun, the crickets and frogs begin in the gardens and jungle. Practicing gamelan (Balinese orchestra) groups from surrounding villages add into this heady soundscape, creating a dreamy “old Bali” kind of 42 UbudLife

atmosphere. In our silence, this soundtrack to evenings at the retreat seems to grow louder each day as we tune in.

Every evening I go to bed earlier and earlier.

A meeting of the eyes and a smile is all that is usually exchanged between guests. We have no idea which country we’re all from, what job we have or how much we earn. There is no “scene” and Ego doesn’t belong here. I observe that this silence actually allows you to be your true self.

I also notice that my mind settles. Without all the busyness and distractions of life in the 21st Century, a calmness comes to me that I decide I’d really like to hang onto. It’s like I turned up at the retreat with a mind of muddy water, and over the coming days that silt settled to the bottom of the glass, creating clarity.

On an excursion to the nearby Batu Karu Temple I talk to some of the other guests

discovering that for many, the retreat was their first Bali experience and some had come specifically to join - such a contrast to those who just come to party.

The Retreat is eco friendly in the best sense.

What their website describes as “green to the extreme” means no garbage in or out, a commitment to composting and naturally treating all waste food and water, off the grid solar power, growing as much organic food as possible, an emphasis on responsible tourism and working with the local community to improve farming practices.

My final morning I join the garden tour and learning about sustainable practices. The head gardener, Agung, tells us about the tropical plants and how they cultivate them. As I walk with my bags up to reception to leave I can hear the girls there giggling and then, from below, I hear the gong for afternoon yoga and I think to myself, this won’t be the last time I hear that gong.

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PILAR BATU GALLERY

Presenting fine art quality of paintings and as a painting studio of I Wayan Suarmadi ADDRESS: JALAN MADE LEBAH, UBUD, GIANYAR, BALI PHONE: 62 361 978197 | MOBILE: 62 81 23980044 EMAIL: WAYANSUARMADI75 @ GMAIL.COM WWW.PILARBATU.COM

CLIMB T EVERY MOUNTAIN by stephanie m • images courtesy of air bali helicopters

48 UbudLife

rekking a volcano in Bali is a absolute must for any adventure seeker, as the views from the peaks are simply stunning, especially if you make it up in time to see the sun rising over the lakes, valleys, peaks, and coastlines below. Mount Agung may be off limits now due to recent activity, but there are still plenty of other sleeping giants to choose from. Not sure which volcano to climb? We’ve put together a handy guide on the best volcano treks in Bali listed from easiest to hardest.

GETTING OUT

BATUR CALDERA If you’re looking for a relatively easy-going climb that still offers incredible views, the Batur caldera is a great choice.

You can start your trek at Pura Ulan Danu Batur—a Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu and the goddess of Lake Batur—and make your way along the ridge to the top of the caldera wall. The trek only takes about 45 minutes to an hour along gently sloping trails, and once at the top you can see Mount Agung to one side, Mount Batur and Lake Batur on the other, and on a clear day even Mount Rinjani on Lombok and the Gili islands across the ocean.

be challenging at times with some rocky pathways and steep sections. Keep in mind too that Batur can get quite busy with plenty of people on the trails and at the peak.

Good for: Trekkers with relatively good fitness levels who don’t mind a bit of a hike and sharing the mountain with

MOUNT CATUR Also known as Pucak Mangu, Mount Catur is located in Bali’s central highlands and is the fourth tallest mountain in Bali at 2,096 metres. The trek starts at Lake Bratan and follows a trail along the edge of the lake before making its way up the mountain in a gentle incline that steadily increases as you get higher. Most of the mountain is covered in forest, but every so often you can catch glimpses of the lake below. From the top you can see all of Lake Bratan and the rolling hills of Bedugul. The trek up takes about two to three hours, and for the most part the trails are clear and easy to follow.

Good for: Trekkers who are in relatively good shape and want something a little bit different than the usual Mount Batur climb.

Good for: Trekkers of all fitness levels who want a quick and easy climb that still offers amazing views.

MOUNT BATUR Mount Batur is the most popular volcano trek on Bali because it only takes about one to two hours to reach the top and the views from the summit at sunrise are epic. Think beams of light peeking out from behind the silhouettes of Mount Abang and Mount Agung and illuminating the caldera and lake below. Plus you can explore unique features like lava fields, steam pockets, and caves. Although the trek is not particularly difficult, it can UbudLife 49

MOUNT ABANG Not so many trekkers hit the trails at Mount Abang, but those who do are rewarded with few crowds and sweeping vistas. This is actually the third highest mountain in Bali after Mount Agung and Mount Batukaru. It was once part of Mount Batur, but an eruption caused it to split, so it now rests on the other side of the lake from the Batur cone. The trail starts off in a peaceful forest and slowly gets steeper the higher you go. It takes about one to two hours to get to the top depending on your fitness level and speed. caused it to split, so it now rests on the other side of the lake from the Batur cone. The trail starts off in a peaceful forest and slowly gets steeper the higher you go. It takes about one to two hours to get to the top depending on your fitness level and speed.

Good for: Trekkers who want to avoid the crowds and don’t mind climbing steep pitches.

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MOUNT AGUNG DISCLAIMER: It is currently forbidden to climb Mount Agung because of the recent volcanic activity. Please do NOT attempt to climb Mount Agung until PVMBG issues a statement declaring it is safe to do so.

Mount Agung is the highest peak on Bali at 3,033 meters above sea level, and it is also the most challenging trek on the island. There are two routes: one starting at Pura Besakih that takes about six hours to reach the highest western peak, and one starting at Pasar Agung that takes about three to four hours to reach the southern peak. Both routes start in the jungle and then open up to steep rocky sections the higher you climb. This is not an easy trek, but the views from the top are worth the effort.

Good for: Experienced trekkers who are physically fit and can handle long, steep treks up rocky slopes.

MOUNT BATUKARU Mount Batukaru is the second highest volcano in Bali and is located on the west side of the island. Most of the mountain is covered in thick forests that provide plenty of shade and house wildlife like monkeys, civets, and deer. The trek starts off pretty easy-going and then gets quite challenging the closer you get to the summit. Once you at the top, you can see all of Bali spread out below and the peaks of Mount Agung, Mount Rinjani, and even some mountains on Java to the east. The trek takes about four to five hours going up and about three hours coming down.

Good for: Trekkers who are in good physical shape and can handle trekking through jungle for most of the journey. You can also opt to camp out overnight at the top if you want to break up the trip.

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54 UbudLife

Spirit of Bali words and image by ayu sekar

Bali’s beauty never fails and to watch the sun rise over a verdant ricefield is to experience pure magic.

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IS BALI READY FOR BALINESE WOMEN’S LIB?philosophically equal and socially discriminated – Part One by jean couteau • statues courtesy of nagamasantik@yahoo.comelicopters

W

ith "women's lib" tourists around, these days, the theme of women's power might well be coming to the Balinese table. Haven't we all seen Balinese women carrying loads, and heard of the charms of Balinese breasts and feminity, not to mention the fertility rate, offerings, family planning and even AIDS? That other half of the population, the women, might therefore be worth some attention.

At the philosophical level, women in Bali have nothing to be worried about: there is gender equality. The Female cosmic principle (Pradana) is considered the complementary opposite of the Male principle (Purusa.).

The first embodies the principle of Matter and the second that of Spirit. From their cosmic union, the world is born, so goes the tradition of Balinese Shivaisme.

From this lofty philosophical ground, the male/female couple of opposites are carried down the road to ever-earthlier symbolisms: God of the air (Akasa) versus Goddess of the earth (Pertiwi); God of love (Asmara) versus Goddess of the moon (Ratih); mountain versus lake or sea. Then it lands for good, the man embodying the Purusa principle (lingga) and the women the Pradana (yoni). At this level it becomes sexual: the man carries the kris (Balinese sacred knife) and looks, unavoidably, for his saung (sheath). They marry and have children: the male child is (sometimes) called "Little Testicles" (I Butuh) while the girl has to make do with "Little Vagina" (Ni Jebet). Everything, thus, is gently sexualized, with women seemingly having their own share, half of everything Spirit, however, always has control over Matter, and the kris is a better weapon than the sheath. If you add this to the fact that the Balinese word for the kris, curiga, translates in Indonesian by the word" suspicion", you understand why Balinese men always try to keep the upper hand over their women.

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CULTURE Heritage in Bali is transmitted in the Purusa or male line. If there is no male heir, one of the daughters’ husbands is adopted into the father’s family, so as to guarantee the proper “patrilineal” transmission of wealth and power: this is the nyentana marriage. Balinese boys, however, are usually reluctant to pick up the role, unless the girl is rich: it entails “submission” and they’re being turned into symbolic “females”.

This unequal partnership between men and women bears on other aspects of social life. For example, women don't belong to the banjar (neighborhood association), nor to the desa adat (village community) as individual citizens, but as part of a pekurenan (nuclear family). Women have therefore practically no autonomy of their own. They may have their female "corvee" (ayahan isteri) as the men have their own, but the jobs to perform are decided during the all-male assembly of the banjar or desa. Women, as a matter of rule, never live independently and always have to share someone else's compound - their father's and then their husband's. They reside with their father until they are "taken away" (juanga), i.e. until they marry. Spinsters are considered as daha (virgins), and therefore, still live under the shelter of their father's premises, having no more say than their married sisters.

The epitomy of the women's dependance, as everything else in Bali, is religious. It is to their father's genealogical gods that young women owe their prayers and service, including the world-famous offerings. Then they marry and shift their religious duties to their husband's gods.

HUSBAND AND WIFE, AN UNEQUAL SEXUAL PARTNERSHIP As in most traditional cultures, women are in Bali considered to be basically impure (sebel). Not only does their menstrual period make them ritually unclean, but their sexuality itself is "dirty". and to be continued part 2 next issue UbudLife 57 statues courtesy of nagamasantik@ yahoo.com • image by ayu sekar

Bali's Elephant Man by jill alexander • image by jill gocher

B

ali’s Elephant Man is nothing like that scarey fellow in the movie, but rather that celebrity shoulders’ rubbing man who, on his own violition decided to save some of Suamtra’s marginalized elephants. As the millennia old tropical rainforest continues to be devastated to make way for ever more palm oil plantations, the inhabitants of the jungle, both humans and animals, find themselves without a home or food.

They sometimes cause trouble with the villagers whose farms have been placed right on the animal’s migration trails and they are carted off to “reserves” where due to ignorance or lack of care they often die with a few years.

Nigel decided to do something to help and about twenty years ago he brought over his first shipment of nine animals and gave then a new home and later a job.

Housing elephants is no easy matter, as he came to discover. Through a few years of trail and error, Nigel and his supportive staff found the way to elephantine happiness.

Not only the animals had to be trained, but even the mahouts were trained, to use kind methods of training, NOT cruelty and scare 58 UbudLife

tactics to train these massive creatures. Nigel insisted on a different system using kindness and rewards, instead of cruelty.”Ok”, he said, “it takes about six months longer than the bullying method, but the results are far superior. The elephants are happy, instead of terrified and harmony reigns”.

This was only one step in the establishment of the elephant park, which has taken all of his cash and more to support, but now, it is paying dividends. They have a product comparable to the Singapore Zoo, with 33 or 34 elephants, including four who have been bred naturally, within the park.

The Park continues to expand, with villa accommodation for guests, a huge open sided restaurant to feed people all day. Nigel’s latest project is a large, free roaming area for the elephants, which will even including their own plunge pool and recreation area. Because the elephants are rescued from several tribes, they are not all accepting of each other and need separate areas to stop fighting, and this is all factored into the plan.

Now the Park and all its happy inhabitants runs smoothly apart from the occaisional animal activist group who tries to run interference and cause trouble by complaining about the elephant’s treatment.

They group every Animal refuge under the same umbrella without examining each place. In fact, some like Masons Elephant Park in Taro, have been independently audited, and have received the thumbs up, on all sides, for their extremely good management of the animals.

SURVIVAL The completion of the elephant park, has been a long and intricate process. They have withstood the Bali Bombs, when tourism drew to a standstill and various other glitches that sometimes happen in tourist destinations. Sometimes activists act emotionally, without proper knowledge of their subject and tend to make a fuss rather than address the real issues which helps noone.

Today this beautiful park in Taro is a popular tourist destination providing guests with the opportunity to have contact with the elephants while everyone remains safe. The location was specially chosen as its higher elevation provides a more pleasing climate for the elephants who were, after all, accustomed to living in the depths of the jungle rather than on the African grasslands like their African cousins. In fact the Sumatran elephant is its own unique sub-species.

The park has a beautiful atmosphere and everyone is happy there. Staff are all long term, which speaks volumes, and guests leave with a smile on their face.

As a final note, some people ask why the animals need to be tethered for feeding. Nigel cracks – the elephants are like three tonne dogs, and could fight each other for food if not tethered individually, where they can eat peacefully. These animals never stop eating and would feed all day if not controlled. As it is each one gets around 250 kg of food a day – a mix of leaves and grasses and special snacks of fruits and some vegetables although the bulk is high fiber food that works best with their digestive system.

Lots of celebrities love to come to visit the park, and of course they receive the specialty treatment - like a helicopter transfer, although it is available to anyone who wants to order it. The latest celebrity is Jean Claude Van Damme who first visited about twenty years ago.

He still loves it!

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Skin

Nature Resort

Float Garden

To Puri Gangga Resort

WORLD MAP

THE REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA

UBUD

ISLAND OF BALI

UBUD LOCATION Ubud, Ubud,lies liesinin the the heart heart of of Bali, Bali, in the centre of the fertile southern rice growing plains. Fertility means much more than the simple sawah or rice fields, it refers to the huge flowering of the arts which happens all around this magical town. Ubud is the home to the arts. Painting, music, dance and gamelan as well as woodcarving, maskmaking and sculpture have attracted visitors for decades.

Artists Artistsalso alsoapply applytheir their skills skills to to making making attractive things for visitors.

Whole streets, attractive things for visitors. Whole streets, like the Tegallalang Road are lined with like the Tegallalang Road are lined with crafts shop making clever knick knacks to crafts shop making clever knick knacks to tempt buyers. tempt buyers.

Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas to to view and temples and wonderous sights view and temples and wonderous sights to to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to keep keep a visitor busy for days. Enjoy! a visitor busy for days. Enjoy!

...

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ubud palace-open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini arma-open stage ubud water palace-open stage bentuyung village batu karu temple-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm

legong dances barong & keris dance kecak ramayana & fire dance women performance

ubud palace-open stage wantilan padang tegal kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

ramayana ballet kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong telek trance culture

ubud palace-open stage jaba pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod kertha accommodation-monkey forest st arma-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

wed

legong & barong dance mask dance [topeng jimat] wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance kecak fire & trance dance jegog [bamboo gamelan]

ubud palace-open stage arma-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini yamasari stage-peliatan open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage pura dalem ubud-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.00 pm

thu

kecak [monkey chant dance] legong dance the barong & keris dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet]

puri agung peliatan jaba pura desa kutuh pura dalem ubud-open stage pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod bale banjar ubud kelod pondok bambu-monkey forest st

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

fri

barong dance legong dance kecak and fire dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] jegog [bamboo gamelan] barong & keris dance

ubud palace-open stage balerung stage peliatan pura padang kertha-padang tegal kelod ubud main road-oka kartini bentuyung village arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.00 pm 6.00 pm

legong dance legong dance frog dance legong dance kecak fire & trance dance the magic of jegog

ubud palace-open stage ubud water palace bale banjar ubud kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage pura dalem taman kaja-open stage arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm

every 1st and 15th: gambuh dance

pura desa batuan-open stage

7.00 pm

tue mon sun

legong of mahabrata kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance janger dance jegog [bamboo gamelan] kecak fire & trance dance

sat

ubud cultural dance performances

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TIPS

pura protocol Tips for how to visit one of Bali’s fabulous temples

A

s visitors to Bali we like to know how to visit a temple graciously. Here are a few guidelines to help make a visit more enjoyable. Enjoy!

The Balinese are quite open and generally welcome visitors. You can enter most temples freely. Wear a sash around the waist and preferably a sarong. Big temples can hire a sarong at the front gate but it is nice to have your own. You can buy a sash and sarong at Ubud market or Sukawati where the choice is limitless.

When there is a ceremony on, the Balinese believe the gods have descended to the temple for the duration. All prayer and dance is performed for the benefit of the gods rather than the tourists. Be respectful. Women who are menstruating must wait outside.

Priests (Pedanda) are well respected and the most important person at the ceremony.

They occupy the highest position. Show respect and don’t try to climb on scaffolding or steps higher than the officiating priest to get a better view or photo.

If you visit a holy spring like Pura Tirtha Empul and decide to try bathing, keep your clothes on and leave the shampoo behind.

It is not a bath, but an immersion in holy water, for a spiritual cleansing.

Expect to pay a small donation before entering a temple. These donations are put to good use, and help with the upkeep of the grounds and the temple itself.

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LEGEND:

Provincial capital

Town

Places of interest

Village

Mountain

MENJANGAN ISLAND

BAL

Pemuteran Reef Building

Ja v a Fer r y to Cekik

Labuhan lalang

Sumberkelampok

Blimbingsari

Klatakan

Gerokgak

Pe

a B e a ch

Antur

Lovina

Bestala Mayong Busungbiu

Pancoran

Mt. Mesehe 1344

BA

Pangkungdedari Melaya

vin

Kalibukbuk Labuhan Haji Kaliasem Pengastulan Temukus Kalisada Seririt Dencarik Tigawasa Bubunan Banjar Sidetapa Tegallenga Ringdikit Cempaga Asah Goble

Mt. Musi 1224

Mt. Merbuk 1386

Sumbersari

Temple

A

Puri Jati [muck-diving]

Celukan Bawang

Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Bali National Park)

E I S

Lo

Sumberkima Goris Banyuwedang

Secret Bay

Gilimanuk

LETKOL WISNU AIRSTRIP Pulaki Banyupoh Kertakawat Pemuteran Gondol Melanting Penyabangan Musi

Lake

Gobleg

Tambling Mund

Subuk

LI

Candikusuma

Pupuan Pujungan Mt

Tegalasih

ST R

Airanakan

A

Banyubiru

IT

NEGARA

Cupel Munduk

Sanda

Rambutsiwi Yehsumbul Yehembang Pesinggahan Mede wi B eac Medewi h

Yehkuning

Perancak

Bat

Manggissari Asahduren

Mendoyo Yehbuah Delod Berawah

Munduk

Batungsel

Tista

Batuagung

DISTANCE [in kilometer]

Belimbing

Ampadan

BANGLI BESAKIH

Balia

CANDI DASA

Balian Beach

DENPASAR GIANYAR

Suraberata Selemad Antosari n B Lalanglinggah Bajera Ba ea ch Soka Soka Bea ch Kerambi Beraban

GILIMANUK

IN

GOA GAJAH GOA LAWAH

O

N

Tanah

E

GUNUNG KAWI

D

Tib

S

IA

AMLAPURA

C

N

OC

SEMARAPURA KUTA

C

EA

LAKE BATUR

N

LEGIAN LOVINA AIRPORT

INT

NUSA DUA SANUR SINGARAJA TANAH LOT UBUD ULUWATU

Padang Sulub

Uluw

Airport/Airstrip

Air Sanih

Sangsit Kubutambahan Beji

Bungkulan

emaron

ran Panji

Bukti

Jagaraga Bila

SINGARAJA Banyuning

Tamblang

Sukasada

Pacung

Julah Bondalem Tejakula Les

Tegal

Pegayaman Gitgit

Asahpanji

Catur

Mt. Catur 2096 Kembangmerta

Tembok Muntidesa

Bayun

Yehketipat

Bantang Penulisan

Kintamani

Lake Bratan

Bedugul Pekarangan Baturiti

tukaru

Apuan

Wongaya

T ul a

Sekardadi

Tulamben

Pengotan Penyebah

Sandakan

Seribatu

Taro

Besakih

Kayubihi

Amed

Jemeluk Wall Bunutan Reef Japanese Wreck

Jemeluk Bunutan

Pempatan Buyan

Puhu

Buahan Petang Pujung Luwus

Culik

Mt. Agung 3142

Kayuambua

Angantiga

m

Mt. Abang 2153

Penulisan Nungkung

t. Batukaru Pacung 2276 l Soka Jatiluwih Senganan

Kedisan

Penelokan

Pelaga

Lake Batur

y n Ba

Candi Kuning

Baturinggit Kubu Rubaya

Trunyan

be

gan duk

Tianyar

Mt. Batur Batur 1717

Pancasari

Lake Buyan Lake Tamblingan

Penuktukan

Sambirenteng

Gentah

Bakungan Penginyahan

k

eg

BALI MAP

Surfing spots

Diving spots

Harbour

Ababi

Abang

Gili Selang Lempuyang

Tirta Gangga Mt. Seraya Menanga 1175 Muncan AMLAPURA Seraya Selat Payangan Bebandem Tampaksiring Rendang Iseh Bangbang Bukit Bucu BANGLI Subagan Kuwum Ceking Sibetan Tembuku Sindu Buruan Ujung Saren Padpadan Kawan Sidakarya Marga Sembung Bunutan Tegallalang Paseban Asak Jasri Ngis Tenganan Jasri Batusari Timbrah Petak Manggis Sidemen Bugbug Petulu Timpag Wanasari Sangeh Buitan deg Sibang Bongkasa Ulakan Candidasa Talibeng Selat Sengkidu Biaha UBUD Blahkiuh antas Alas Kedaton Mimpang Akah Blayu Peliatan h Bedulu Padangbai A m u k B a n d i Tepekong c KLUNGKUNG ) a d as a Be ay bok Denkayu Abiansemal Silayukti Sidan Tihingan Samsam TABANAN Kutri Dawan ( Lom Ferry Channel lands Mas Is i GIANYAR il itan Mambal G Kamasan Goa Lawah Blue Lagoon Fast Boats Padangbai (Bali ) Kengetan Mengwi Gelgel Bone Tanjung Sari Sakah Gubug IT Silakarang Kusamba bubiyu Blahbatuh Tanjung Jepun Kediri Sibang RA Angantaka T Kemenuh S Lebih Muncan Pejaten Batuan OK Darmasaba Sukawati Keramas Yeh Gangga Pandakgede Singapadu MB O L Fe Beraban Sempidi rry Batubulan Celuk Pa h Lot da ng ba Ubung Lumintang T i (B Tohpati I ali ) A Kerobokan DENPASAR Canggu - Le R B e Brawa Canggu Padanggalak mb h T Sumerta a ar ( Muding Shipwreck SD S Sental Lom Umalas Pengubengan Canggu Renon Sanur bok Blue Corner Buyuk ) Jungutbatu Batubelig Sanur Kutampi Sindhu Ped LEMBONGAN ISLAND Legi Petitenget Telaga Sanglah an Sampalan Lembongan Toyapakeh B e Seminyak Batujimbar Pegok Kut ac Sentalkangin Legian Gelogorcarik Semawang CENINGAN ISLAND aB Pidada Gelagah e Crystal Bay Kuta Pesanggaran Blanjong Metakih Ponjok Kuta Bayuh Suana Malibu SERANGAN ISLAND Tuban Manta Point Semaya Serangan NGURAH RAI Batumandeg Pejukutan BENOA HARBOUR TERNATIONAL AIRPORT Ambengan Tanjung Benoa Kedonganan Batukandik Pendem Jimbaran Bay Tanglad Soyor Jimbaran Bungkit Bingin Anta Pelilit Manta Point Tabuanan Mumbul Ramoan g Padang Sedihing Bualu Geger Sekartaji Kampial ban Nusa Dua Ungasan Batuabah Sawangan watu N Pecatu Babahan

Sebatu

Bali Silent Retreat

Penebel Perean Pitra

Sulahan Singarata

C

h ac

N

DU

BA

San

ur

G

Be

ac

Ferry to N usa Pe nida

ch

h

NUSA PENIDA

us

a Dua Beac

h

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

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50 km

Sultry Sanur Seduces Bali’s

super

secret!

by ayu sekar • images by jill alexander

S

anur! Once known as “Snore” Sanur is looking very lively these days. While the millenials may prefer something with more of a party atmosphere, that long strip of white sand looking over the serene lagoon has a lot of charm.

Apart from that, the beach is quiet, and off the road. The long strip of bars and restaurants and little shops offering something for everybody line the beach and you cant walk ten metres before encountering yet another place to stop for a coffee or a delicious meal.

New hotels, lots of shops, boutiques, restaurants and a relaxed vibe make it a wonderful place to spend time. Unlike Kuta and Ubud, the traffic is normal and it is also away from the beach. Every thing is on a human scale, and traffic jams? Well I have never encountered one yet. In Bali, this is something like a miracle!

A long boardwalk stretches the length of the lagoon for about four kilometers, making a great jogging track early morning or a cycling path middle of the day. Every afternoon an onshore breeze springs up, keeping the temperature liveable, even on the hottest of days.

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It’s calm and relaxing and the perfect place to sit watching the changing weather patterns or the passing parade of people – all inducing a sense of calm.

BEACH TIME A new imitation panama? Sarong? Sunset cocktail? Why not! The other great thing, is it is less than an hour’s drive from Ubud, and on a good day it’s only about thirty minutes away.

Those harbouring James Bond fantasies can hire a jet ski and zoom up and down the beach or try a host of other watersports. There is no shortage of activities to keep exercised, although reclining on a lounger is also just great!.

And if your stay stretches into night and you would like a different experience, try the Pasar Sindhu Night Market, just like they used to have in Ubud years ago! Or try any one of a dozen delicious places to eat.

Restaurants range from simple to five star and while one hotel offers a lobster buffet lunch ( delicious), nearby you will find a simple warung offering fried fish by the beach. The choice is yours. All kinds of beachside eateries nestle under the trees looking out to the placid waters.

The other lovely thing about Sanur, is that the Balinese community is still very evident. The fishermen still come at low tide and people hunt sea creatures in the shallow waters. It is also a popular place for sunrise photography as it will always produce some spectacular results.

In the months of August, September until October, Sanur’s winds blow strongly and several kite festivals take place along various beaches close to Sanur. Prepare to be amazed at the sheer immensity of some of these kites that take a whole banjar to launch and to hold in the skies.

Sanur is really an undiscovered paradise and let’s hope it stays that way! oh and by the way, you can get cappuccinos in regular cups!

The main street, Jl. Tamblingan is also lined with boutiques and restaurants and cafes. It is all too good.

Sunrise yoga on the beach, or a quiet meditation is still possible and unlike the lovely Kuta, it never feels crowded. A massage under the trees, while you relax? A mani/pedi?

Absolutely. A little shopping.

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RESTAURANTS

SereS Resort & Resort Jl. Jukut Paku, Singekerta, Ubud Phone: 0361 3012222 www.sereshotelsresorts.com

Bridges Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Biah Biah Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: 0361 978249 Biah-Biah+ Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976466 Buddha Bowl Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Hand phone: 081 339 339928 Cafe Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9x, Ubud Phone: 0361 972706 www.cafedesartistesbali.com Copper Kitchen & Bar Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792888 www.copperubud.com CP LOUNGE Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com DIVINE Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Down To Earth Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 7835545 www.earthcafeubud.com Liap Liap Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080888 www.liapliap.com Folk Pool Gardens Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080888 www.folkubud.com Ibu Rai Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, Ubud Phone: 0361 973472 www.iburai.com Juice Ja Cafe Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

Villa Beji Indah Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 0361 974168 www.villabejiindah.com

Kebun Jl. Raya Hanoman 44B, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803801 www.kebunbistro.com

ACCOMMODATION Arma Resort Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976659 www.armaresort.com B.Saya Villa and Restaurant Jl. Suweta, Ubud Phone: 0361 973496 www.bsaya.com Cendana Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973243 www.cendanaresort-spa.com Korurua Jl. Tirta Tawar, Junjungan, Ubud Phone: 0361 9000496 www.koruruaubud.com Om Ham Retreat Jl. Tirta Tawar, Ubud Phone: 0361 9000352 www.omhamretreat.com Puri Gangga Resort Desa Sebatu, Tegallalang, Ubud Phone: 0361 902222 www.puriganggaresort.com Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng, Ubud Phone: 0361 974393 www.ubudsari.com Sri Ratih Cottages & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com SenS Hotel & Resort Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493328 www.senshotelsresorts.com

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KAFE Jl. Raya Hanoman 48B, Ubud Phone: 0361 970992 ww.kafe-bali.com Monkey Legend Jl. Monkey Forest 8, Ubud Phone: 0361 981611 www.monkeylegendubud.com Nomas Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080800 www.nomasubud.com Pizza Bagus Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978520 Sri Ratih Cafe & Jewelry Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Sayuri Healing Food Jl. Sukma 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080385 www.sayurihealingfood.com Taksu Fresh Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792525 www.taksuyoga.com Warung Sopa Garden Jl. Nyuh Kuning 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 2801340 www.warungalami.jombo.com Warung Citta Ovest Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971352 Warung Siam Jl. Goutama, Ubud Hand phone: 081 239 655905 Why Not Restaurant & Bar Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 0361 9081601 Yonne Cafe & Bar SenS Hotel & Resort Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493328 www.senshotelsresorts.com

NIGHT LIFE CP Lounge Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com

SPAS

SHOPS

PROPERTY Red Lotus Property Jl. Sukma, Br. Tebesaya, Ubud Phone: 0361 970980 www.redlotusbaliproperty.com

Aura Theraphy Spa Jl. Hanoman 888, Ubud Phone: 0361 972956 www.ubudaura.com

Bambooku Jl. Hanoman 32, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803119 www.bambooku.com

Bali Healing Spa Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 973067 www.balihealingspa.com

Kunci Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 971050 www.kuncicottonknit.com

Bali Botanical Day Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976739 www.balibotanica.com

Nirmala - Work On T’shirt Jl. Hanoman 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 7475404

Taksu Galleria Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792508 www.taksuspa.com

Rainbow Spirit Jl. Hanoman 38, Ubud Hand phone: 085 100 126053 www.rainbowspiritbali.com

Pilar Batu Gallery Jl. Made Lebah, Ubud Phone: 0361 978197 www.pilarbatu.com

Cocoon Medical Spa Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest 8, Ubud Hand phone: 0811 3882241 www.cocoonmedicalspa.com FRESH Spa Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493677 Float Garden Jl. Pejeng Kawan, Laplapan, Ubud Hand phone: 0812 39259261 www.ubudfloatgarden.com KUSH Ayurvedic Rejuvenation Spa Yoga Barn - Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971236 www.yogabarn.com/kush Milano Salon Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973488 Sri Ratih Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Sala Japan Beauty Care Jl. Jembawan 1, Padang Tegal, Ubud Phone: 0361 977803 www.absbysala.com Sedona Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975770 www.sedonaspa-ubud.com SKIN Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Goutama 24 & Jl. Sanggingan 36, Ubud Phone: 0361 975615 & 0361 975604 rsvp@ubudSkinOrganic.com Taksu Spa and Restaurant Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971490 www.taksuspa.com

Sensatia Botanicals Jl. Monkey Forest 64, Ubud Phone: 0361 3400011 www.sensatia.com Studio Perak Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 974244 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Hand phone: 081 236 51809 www.dketut37@yahoo.com

GALLERIES

CERAMICS Sari Api Ceramics Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

SISI Jl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Hand phone: 085 103 235151 www.sisibag.com SISI Jl. Sriwedari No.12, Ubud Hand phone: 085 100765895 YIN Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 970718 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 8468510 Jl. Hanoman Hand phone: 085 100801879 www.yinjewelryforthesoul.com

ARTISTS Wayan Karja [Painter] Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Hand phone: 081 239 76419 Wayan Sila [Owl House] Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 977649 | Mobile: 081 8566861

YOGA CENTRE Bali Silent Retreat Banjar Mongan, Penatahan, Penebel, Tabanan, Bali www.balsilentretreat.org Ojas Prana Jl. Tirta Tawar, Banjar Junjungan, Ubud Phone: 0361 9083712 www.ojasprana.com Yoga Barn Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 0361 971236 www.theyogabarn.com UbudLife 71

SPORT/RECREATION

USEFUL NUMBERS Ambulance

Mason Adventures Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 721480 www.masonadventures.com

Airport Authority

Ubud Horse Stables Phone: 081 339585666 www.ubudhorsestables.com

VISA/LEGAL AFFAIRS

MUSEUMS ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum of Art ) Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 974228 Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 975502 Museum Puri Lukisan Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, Gianyar Phone: 975136 Neka Art Museum Jl. Raya Sanggingan Phone: 975074 Pendet Museum Jl. Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 971338 Rudana Museum Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 975779

227711

Directory Inquiries

108/112

Fire Brigade

113

Immigration

751038

International Red Cros

226465

Search and Rescue

EAST BALI SECTION

161 751111

Sanglah Public Hospital

227911

Tourist information Center

753540

Time Ubud Tourist Information

103 973286

Ashyana Candidasa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41359 www.ashyanacandidasa.com Coral View Villas Jl.Raya Bunutan Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23493 www.coralviewvillas.com Le-Zat Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41538, 41539 www.balicateringservices.com Le 48 Hotel & Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa 48, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41177 www.lezatbeachrestaurant.com Villa Matanai Jasri Beach - East Bali Phone: +6281337611010 www.villamatanai.com

NORTH BALI SECTION The Hamsa Resort Jl. Air Terjun Sing-Sing, Lovina, Phone: +62 813 3719 4975 Amertha Bali Villas Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Phone: 0362 94831 www.baliamerthavillas.com Taman Sari Bali Resort and Spa Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Phone: 0362 93264, 94765

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Bali Police Department

Post Office

HIGHWAY Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 972107 www.highwaybali.com

118 751011

CONSULATES Australia

241118

Brazil

757775

Czech Republic

286465

Denmark & Norway

701070

French

285485

Germany

288535

Hungary

287701

Italy

701005

Japan

227628

Mexico

223266

Netherlands

761502

Spain/Portugal

769286

Sweden & Finland

288407

Switzerland

751735

Unitedkingdom

270601

USA

233605

UbudLife 73

LAST WORD

Celebrating the little things in life Mark Ulyseas

Many among us are drawn to the lamp of excess…loud, flashy and pointless. The urgency to be seen, heard and in some cases felt is the rule rather than the exception.

On the periphery of the bright lights exists a reality that has sustained itself when all have gone to seed - the contentment that follows the celebration of the little things in life.

Like a quiet walk down a crowded street observing the shenanigans of humanity in the throes of self-indulgence without immersing oneself in the mindlessness.

Like the warmth of a Nasi Campur, packed in a banana leaf, bought from a small wayside outlet. The aroma permeating the air around.

Like listening to the gentle breathing of one’s pet dog as he lies across your feet.

Like the sound of a mosquito waiting to penetrate your aura. And you waiting expectantly to smack it between your palms.

Like the aroma of kopi Bali wafting from the glass in your hand as you sit on the rocky beach watching the fishing boats return, illuminated by a rising sun.

Like eating Babi Guling with your hands, breaking the succulent pieces and popping them into your mouth with rice, followed by a liberal dose of Arak, whilst sitting cross legged on the ground. And then, when the feast is over, to lie down and dose off to the rhythm of a fan, its blades slicing the still air.

Or munching on boiled salted peanuts.

Or marvelling at the soft pink petals of a lotus flower as they fall in the wind.

Many among us ignore the little things in life and in doing so forget our humaneness. And when despair and death come knocking we suddenly become aware of the sound of a butterfly’s wings.

But by then, it is too late.

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

Like reading a book under a lamp on a monsoon night… the smell of paper and fresh earth mingling with that of frangipani.

Mark Ulyseas Publisher/Editor, http://www.liveencounters.net Free online magazine from village earth.

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