Ubud Life 35th Edition

UbudLife guide to ubud & beyond, bali lifestyle, people, arts, yoga, spirit, culture and cuisine

CHASING WATERFALLS FOOD PRODUCERS BALI AGA REVISITED PENGOSEKAN VILLAGE THE ORIGINS OF BALI 2

free

EDITOR’S NOTE

Like Us!

facebook.com/ubudlifemagz

UbudLife MAG Om Swastiastu, Welcome to our new edition of Ubud Life and our high season for visitors! With the quieting of the holy mountain, Gunung Agung, visitors are returning in droves and life is going back to normal, for everyone.

With clear skies and perfect weather Bali is at her beautiful best.

It’s the time for exploring all that this magical island has to offer, eating spicy Indonesian food, or the cuisine of a dozen different countries – French, Italian, Indian, Thai, Mexican and more! It is all there to be enjoyed.

This issue we go to explore some of Bali’s hidden waterfalls. Finding them is like a delightful voyage of discovery, never knowing quite what to expect, but secure in the knowledge that it will be fabulous!

We also have the second half, of the history of Bali by celebrity historian and art critic, Jean Couteau who has documented Bali from every possible angle.

There is always more to enjoy – so pull up a chair, grab a coffee and get reading.

May the gods keep you well and look after you on this magical island.

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

THE EDITOR

Cover photo by Ayu Sekar This amazing mapeed procession in Sukawati is enlivened by this cute girl making herself visible and setting up for a super photo.

8 UbudLife

editor ubudlife-gsb team creative graphic designer dedito ssn. photographer i gusti ketut windia sales and marketing ketut muliartani finance yukmang susilawati distribution ubudlife-gsb team contibutors ibu kat ayu sekar jill alexandre stephanie m jean couteau richard horstman publisher GSB (gemini studio bali) jalan gunung tangkuban perahu III/4, denpasar barat - bali 80361 p: 0361 8495479, 0361 8447982 e: sales@geministudio-bali.com w: www.ubudlife.com director putu santosa views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. all material copyright ©2010 (gsb) gemini studio bali. the publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.

contents 28

20

CHASING WATERFALLS

36

TWO TO TRY

64

10 UbudLife

BALI AGA REVISITED

THE ART & CHARACTER OF PENGOSEKAN VILLAGE

by jill alexandre

TAKSU THE SURPRISING WELLNESS RETREAT

T

aksu – the very name speaks of energy, or power, of the now! Taksu in Bali is a spa with a difference.

Not only is it a place of massage, it is also a centre of wellness, where new healing modalities come to the fore. It is also a place for yoga, with specialist teachers holding small and select classes with individual attention. It is a place surrounded by gardens, filled with trees and flowers, and with organic hyrdophonic vegetables that can be harvested just minutes before they appear on your table.

Taksu is constantly evolving with new treatments, new therapies and new menus. You will never know till you try. Sound Healing is about to become fully available as well as colon hydrotherapy to give everyone a clean start to the day, dispel toxins and make life new again.

Now to make it even Better, Taksu Galleria, across the road and down the lovely Jl. Goutama south, has just embraced gluten free!

With the increasing number of celiacs or gluten intolerant digestive systems increasing, it is the time that much of Ubud is looking at Gluten free and a new way of living. Food allergies can show up I many disturbing ways and the way to keep them at bay is to lose the gluten.

Taksu’s motto – “who knew it was gluten free” can be applied to most al of their gluten free products. They can be surprisingly good.

When I had the gluten free lemon tart it was so delicious that any thoughts of gluten just didn’t come up! With close work with some of Ubud’s leading gluten free chefs who have been working to keep the flavour while losing

the gluten, they have come up with a range of dishes that should please even the most discerning tastebuds and health aficionados.

And speaking of flavour, outside Taksu but in the lovely community conscious street, Jl. Goutama the Ubud Coffee Roastery is purveying the best blends of Indonesian coffee, to enhance the coffee experience even further.

Pop in for a quick espresso or sit comfortably for a cup of Java and a chat.

And for those on a restricted budget, Taksu often hold half price practicum massages for the girls who are still training. Their skills are almost up to passing stage but they need to clock up their hours to reach their certification standard, so SSSSSH it is a well kept secret that is so good to know.

Taksu is full of exciting pathways to wellness Taksu Spa - Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud T: 0361 479 2525, 0361 971 490 www.taksuspa.com | Facebook: TaksuUbudBali Open daily 9am-10pm

happenings around ubud Due to prevailing weather conditions, the exact dates may not be decided upon, until it is a little closer to the event time. So watch out for notifications starting in July

BALI KITE FESTIVAL The Bali International Kite festival – as Bali’s cooler season sets in and the winds start blowing strongly along the east coast, kites start to appear in the skies all over the island.

But not just any kites! Come August, and the annual Bali International Kite Festival will be held in the empty fields of Padangalak. These competitions include the biggest and best kites in Bali and from abroad!

Come along and you will see kites bigger than you could ever believe possible. Some are so big it takes a team of twenty to hold them.

Watch out for the giant Janggan Kites, the biggest of which weighs in at one tonne and measures a whopping 250 meters in Length.

You can imagine how many men it takes to launch these kites and keep them aloft!

Keep your eyes open for other events that are held along the breadth of the east coast during this windy season. Sanur, too, has its own festival, although arguably, Padanggalak is the biggest and the best.

14 UbudLife

GALUNGAN & KUNINGAN Every six months or so Galungan rolls around.

This is the happiest season for all Balinese which is like Christmas and Easter all rolled into one as the whole island dresses up to celebrate the victory of good over evil or dharma over adharma. Every village comes alive with gaily decorated penjors and other decorations. Make sure you take time to visit a village or two and take in the beauty. It is also the time when young boys from the banjar roam the village streets with their mini barongs, dancing to bring good luck and looking for donations for their own banjar.

This year Galungan runs from Wed May30th until Saturday June 9th when the gods return to whence they came.

UbudLife 15

BALI’S 40th ARTS FESTIVAL Once again the Bali Arts festival will hit the streets of Denpasar with a month long celebration of Bali’s vibrant culture as well as performances from the outer islands. It is a month of fabulous costume and ceremony, dance and drama, as the best of the best are sourced from all over the island. Fine dancers, exquisitely tuned gamelans, and arcane performances that rarely see the light of day. It is truly a visual feast.

Photographers would be crazy to miss it as beautiful girls and gorgeous boys parade in their dazzling best, all photo ready and happy to pose. Although please remember your manners and try to photograph nicely with good manners and politeness.

Bali Arts Festival – 40th, June - 17th July 2018

UNITED NATIONS WORD YOGA DAY CHARITY EVENT On Sunday 24th June from 7am at The Yoga Barn we will be celebrating World Yoga Day, a special time for the global yoga community to come together to practice yoga for peace.

Join us for sunrise meditation, sun salutations and sound healing led by The Yoga Barn teachers, followed by a special ecstatic dance. This event will be by donation with all proceeds going to the Mount Agung evacuees.

16 UbudLife

B

ali and possibly Indonesia’s first Indigenous Celebration was held on May 11-13 in the grounds of ARMA, one of Ubud’s nicest venues for any celebration. An opening speech by renowned explorer, Lawrence Blair and Bapak Agung Rai, was followed by ritual prayer ritual which involved a sprinkling of rice and holy water.

This tribal gathering was an inaugural event with 200 Indigenous people coming from their riverine, and jungle homes and small villages to meet together in Bali for the first time to share their own experiences with a wider audience.

It was a huge, logistical feat that seemed to come together seamlessly. The festival included 34 tribes from Indonesia and a Maori group from New Zealand and an Aboriginal dance group from Australia. Daytime workshops, included weaving demonstrations by weavers from West Timor, traditional tattooers from Mentawai and Dayak Iban from Borneo and sound healing by the New Zealand Maori, just some of the 29 workshops offered. The event brought in a crowd of 2,500 people.

This celebration of Indigenous peoples was initiated by photographer David Metcalf, owner of Ubud’s Taksu Photo Gallery and the founder of Yayasan Ranu Welum, Central Kalimantan. With support from the New Zealand Embassy and partners including ​​Arma Museum, Green School, excellent event organisers Antida Music Production, and others it was an outstanding inaugural event.

The Indigenous Celebration is planned to be an annual event. Next year it is hoped that more Embassies, leaders and corporate sponsors will come on board as partners in a spirit of cross-cultural collaboration. website www.indigenouscelebration.art

UbudLife 17

TWO TO TRY by jill alexandre

NOSTIMOS - Greek Restaurant, Pengosekan

F

resh is the first thing that comes to mind when you enter this delightful Mediterranean blue and white restaurant. The cool interior is the perfect locale to enjoy their great food.

The menu is filed with Greek favourites, from the generous Mezze Platter to the delicious Greek salad and the mixed Grill - all freshly made and full of flavour. Anyone who likes Greek food will love Nostimo. Look out for the Grilled Octopus (or just try a little on the Mezze Platter) that comes with Spicy Fetta Dip, the intruiging flavour of Skordalia, grilled capsicums and fresh Pitta bread.

Although I didn’t try the eggplant Melitzana, it is definitely on the list for next time.

Being an authentic Greek menu, vegetarians will be happy to know there are plenty of vegetarian options, redolent with flavour and rich olive oil. Greek food is almost perfect for vegetarians with its grilled peppers, delicious hand cut Greek fries, mezze platter, and mezze dips, zucchini fries (yum), skordalia, grilled vegetables, eggplant Melitzana and a chickpea or lentil soup and plenty of Feta cheese, vegetarians are more than spoiled for choice.

Meatarians are also well catered for, with delicious variations of pork, chicken, beef and lamb, which come skewered, grilled or wrapped into a sustaining Souvlakia.

This Greek food goes well with a cold beer or one of a small but nice selection of wines or even, Prosecco.

20 UbudLife

nostimo

The restaurant is easy to find, and is just across the road from ARMA. Nostimo Jalan Raya Pengosekan No.108. | T: +62 82145735546 You may want to book for an evening meal, as it is very popular.

UBUD EATING

JUS JA CAFÉ - A long time star on the Ubud good eating map.

J

us Ja in Jl Dewi Sita, has survived generations of changing restaurants. We see them come and go but some stalwarts just keep serving up great stuff, and the customers keep coming. The restaurant took on a new energy a few a months ago when talented chef Nicholas (of Bridges and Uma Cucina fame) decided to go solo and move in. Now there is an amalgamation of Suzan’s creations - the healthy food remains, plus the exotic juices, the raw juices, wheat grass shots and great coffee and now there are some pleasing new additions.

The Lunch menu has some changes including the herb encrusted organic chicken that comes with couscous, some interesting pieces of vegetable and a richly satisfying sauce. My friend had the organic chicken in coconut soup, which turned out to be a very authentic offering of the famous Thai Tom Kar Gai – and it was probably the best in town.

For dessert we could not resist the almond orange cake with a lemony creme topping and slices of candied lemon- absolutely rivetting.

The evening menu branches into a slightly more fine dining menu that needs to be explored separately. Go in the evening to try their Smoked Salmon Cucumber Rolls and Jungle Curry Butterfish or the Tandoori chicken skewers or mushroom Tortellini. All delicious. All popular.

Juice Ja Café Jalan Dewi Sita, Ubud | T: +62 361 971056

juice ja café

UbudLife 21

Mata Dewi the Amazing Studio of Ibu Ratna

H

idden out in the peaceful ricefields of Lotundu, the Mata Dewi Salon is a coolly operating production centre of beauty. Here in this wonderful, non-industrial location, Ibu Ratna produces orders for fine silk and cotton wearables from both Bali and abroard. Scarves, Shawls, robes, dresses, and actually, anything a client may wish to order can be produced here, from concept to finished product. With a team of expert dyers, cutters, designers and tailors at the ready, they are ready to produce whatever order comes along to a clients satisfaction.

Silk satins and crepe de chines from China are dyed to specified colours in the in-house workshops using non toxic dyes from Germany.

Special orders using natural dyes like indigo are also produced, although these orders are outsourced to a local dyer, expert in indigo dyeing.

While most of the fabrics come from China, others are sourced in Bandung, although often the thread used will still come from the huge manufacturing base of China, While Indian cotton is sometimes used, the nature of Ibu Ratna’s orders tend to favour the machine made silks of China. Some silks are made locally in Sulawesi, with a quality similar to the Thai silk handlooms, but the

same reasoning applies, that for slinky gowns, only the finest silk is desired. But options are there, depending on the clients wishes.

And fine work is what Mata Dewi is all about, especially the silky soft robes that drape like a 1930’s movie star’s gown. Think Jean Harlow, Mae West, who wore the softest clingiest silk imaginable. Designs and motifs can be designed in house, or if you have a favourite idea, or theme - they will do it for you. Choose your motifs, which are hand drawn, or transferred on to the fabric. Everything is possible.

For the batik processes, a mix of cold wax or the more traditional hot wax, drawn using the traditional Javanese canting are used. In fact many processes are available, it all depends on the customer. Designs can be stamped or hand drawn, all according to preference.

To see what they are doing, you can visit the website and see how they can help you with your business.

Besides the workshops in Lodtundu, they have a showroom in Ubud.

Showroom: Jalan Hanoman, Padang Tegal, Ubud T: (0361) 1492887 W: http://matadewi.business.site/

28 UbudLife photo credit: bali sunrise tours

OUT OF TOWN

Chasing Waterfalls by stephanie mee • image ayu sekar

H

idden deep inside Bali’s jungles are a multitude of spectacular natural wonders where rivers pour out from the top of craggy cliffs and cascade into clear pools below. While some of Bali’s waterfalls are easy to access and visited frequently by tourists and locals alike, others are hidden away in hardto-reach spots and experienced only by the truly adventurous.

If chasing waterfalls is on your agenda, these are some of the most spectacular falls around the island.

photo credit: stephanie mee

n Aling Aling Waterfall

n Gitgit Waterfall

If you’ve ever had the urge to slide down a waterfall, Aling Aling offers just such an opportunity. Located in the village of Sambangan just a short drive from Singaraja, this scenic waterfall splits at the top creating two distinct falls that crash into a deep pool 35 metres below. The falls are pretty impressive in themselves, but it’s the surrounding cliffs that offer the most fun.

Ask one of the locals to show you lofty spots where you can leap from the cliffs into the water below and careen down a natural water slide formed by years of erosion.

Gitgit is one of Bali’s most impressive waterfalls located just 10 kilometres south of Singaraja. Follow a narrow path into the jungle and you’ll pass souvenir stands, clove trees and coffee plantations on your way to the falls. Soon you’ll feel a cooling mist dispersing through the air as the gushing falls come into view. Stop at the rest area at the base of the falls to enjoy a cold drink or snack and dip your feet in the cool river, then head further up the hill to get up close and personal with the lovely multi-tiered falls.

UbudLife 29

photo credit: bali sunrise tours

n Dusun Kuning Waterfall

n Jembong Waterfall

Cascading 25 metres down sheer rock cliffs in multiple rushing streams that pour out into the Melangit River, Dusun Kuning Waterfall is simply stunning, but very tricky to get to.

From Umanyar village in Bangli you need to trek about 500 metres down an overgrown path deep in the forest until you reach a cliff, then climb down the cliff grabbing onto tree roots as you go. It’s definitely not an easy trip, but the difficulty of access means there will be few if any other people around. However, you won’t be totally alone, as a troop of mischievous monkeys calls the forest around the falls home.

Jembong Waterfall looks like something straight off a postcard with its gushing streams pouring down in different directions over a series of rock ledges. Even better, it often gets overlooked for the more popular Gitgit falls close by. The easy trek takes you along a small path through a cacao plantation to the base of the falls. The atmosphere is peaceful with just the sound of trickling water and birds flitting through the greenery, and the metre-deep pool beneath the falls is perfect for swimming in the cool, clear water.

30 UbudLife

n Sekumpul Waterfall Often touted as Bali’s most beautiful waterfall, Sekumpul is actually seven different falls that sluice down out of the forest from a height of 80 metres. There are two ways to see the falls: either by taking a trek to a viewpoint where you can relax in gazebos and gaze out at Sekumpul from a distance or setting off on a demanding 45-minute hike through the jungle down slippery steps and over streams that will take you right to the bottom of the falls. Keep in mind that Sekumpul is a pretty popular spot, so it can get crowded especially in high season.

photo credit: ayu sekar

n Blahmantung Waterfall

Arguably the most unique Bali waterfall, Tukad Cepung pours out of a natural skylight at the top of curved cliffs that make you feel as though you’re in a cave. The combination of sunlight and water pouring through the opening create plenty of rainbows in the mist and an other-worldly feel. To get to Tukad Cepung, you must descend hundreds of steep steps and then take a short walk up a river and around boulders. Take note that the river at the bottom can become flooded and fast moving in the rainy season.

The drive to Blahmantung Waterfall is almost as pretty as the falls themselves, as you get to cruise by vast stretches of rice paddies and lush coffee and clove plantations. The trail to the falls runs about 800 metres, and it can be slightly challenging with a few steep sections and stones that can get quite slippery in the rainy season (which is in fact the best time to see the falls). However, it’s worth the effort because this is one of the tallest falls in Bali and a truly beautiful spectacle with its single spout of water shooting off the top of a vinecovered cliff and tumbling 100 metres down to a pool below.

n Nungnung Waterfall

n Banyumala Waterfall

Located in the small village of Nungnung about an hour and a half north of Ubud, Nungnung Waterfall is a real hidden gem for those who are prepared to make the trek. To get here you must descend 500 stone steps into a densely forested gorge below. As you make your way down, you pass cinnamon trees and wooden bales where you can stop and rest. When you finally reach the bottom, you’ll be rewarded with the sight of this massive 50-metre waterfall thundering down to the rocks below and the cooling sensation of mist swirling around the jungle-covered cliffs.

Peaceful and pretty Banyumala Waterfall can be reached from Lake Buyan, but it’s not particularly easy to find. That’s not such a bad thing though, as you might actually have the falls all to yourself. The hike to the falls is about 400 metres down a narrow path through the jungle, and then you have to take a small set of stairs down to the clearing. Here you will find two waterfalls spilling over black volcanic rocks creating a curtain of rivulets that splash into the pond below. You can relax on the mossy rocks surrounding the pond or cool off in the water as the falls cascade overhead.

n Tukad Cepung Waterfall

UbudLife 31

The Art and Character of PENGOSEKAN Village by richard horstman

36 UbudLife

BALI ARTS

B

alinese traditional art is the art of story telling.

Its ancient narratives bring to life tales from the sacred Hindu and Buddhist texts, old Balinese and Javanese folklore, and accounts of daily life. Its purpose is to promote harmony within the community via examples of proper moral conduct.

gusti ayu kadek murniasih (1966-2006)

During the past century indigenous art has been revolutionized via the meeting with Western art techniques and ideas into a ‘new’ genre that became known as Balinese modern traditional art.

This art form thrived due to the development of new tourist markets, driven initially by the first wave of foreign visitors in the 1930’s, who after holidaying on Bali wished to purchase a memento to bring home.

A distinctive feature of Balinese modern traditional art is the different village styles, or ‘schools’ that evolved over time, each with its own individual creative verve.

Stories from the other side of the canvas - both triumphant and tragic – of the artists and the events behind the art have enriched the ‘aura’ of Balinese modern traditional art while endearing a global audience. This is a tale about the art and some of the characters that have distinguished the art from the village of Pengosekan.

Overshadowed by the more famous styles of Ubud, Batuan and Sanur, Pengosekan, one kilometre south of Ubud, has its own art history, complete with unique figures, and signature styles.

The most celebrated of all Pengosekan painters is Gusti Ketut Kobot UbudLife 37

(1917-1999), accredited as one of the leaders of the post-war changes in Balinese paintings, he was also an influential art teacher. Some of Kobot’s finest works are mythological featuring characters from the religious narratives, while he also responsible for creating the prototypes for the scenes of village life that would be ceaselessly imitated for mass production as tourist art.

A signature style developed in Pengosekan during the 1960’s featuring images of local flora and fauna painted in fresh pastel colours.

At first the artists focussed on depicting birdlife set within beautiful scenarios of forests and trees, others then explored nature closeup, their compositions highlighting an array of insects, often grasshoppers or butterflies rendered in great detail.

Kobot’s renditions of characters that still today are brought to life in the Wayang Kulit shadow puppet theatre are executed with extraordinary attention to compositional balance. According to the Balinese paintings that achieve perfect visual equilibrium indicate the artist’s excellent skills, and his strong connection with the divine. Brahma on Wilmana, Kobot’s painting of the Hindu god of creation riding the monster headed mythical bird Wilmana, on permanent display at the Neka Art Museum in Sanggingan, Ubud is fine example of his talent.

One of the finest practitioners of the flora and fauna style is Ketut Rudi who was born in Lotonduh, just south of Pengosekan in 1943.

His works were commissioned and collected by the second President of Indonesia, Suharto (1921-2008) and hang in the Presidential State Palaces around the country. Rudi often painted at the State Palace in Tampaksiring, Central Bali, while Suharto was on retreat from the nation’s capital city, Jakarta. To ease his mind Suharto would often sit for hours watching Rudi at work.

Structured with outer layers of decorative patterns the central characters appear framed and effortlessly poised, Wilmana wears a magic protective poleng (black and white checkered cloth) around the waist to avert harmful forces, since it has positive white and negative black in balance. Kobot is renowned for such depictions, honing them to the height of refinement. He is acknowledged as one of the masters of the original Ubud artist’s cooperative, the Pita Maha that thrived between 1936-1945, helping establish Balinese modern traditional art.

The inhabitants of Pengosekan were predominantly farmers, tending the agricultural fields surrounding their village.

In the process of breaking away from the orthodox subject matter that featured in their paintings, the artists began to look outside of the conventions for new creative inspiration, and started paying more attention to nature.

38 UbudLife

Another painter, Ketut Liyer (1924-2016) was a local village priest (pemangku) who painted agricultural scenes and the sacred cloth amulets known as rerajahan. Liyer, who was also a paranormal and ‘healer’, shot to international fame via the Hollywood movie Eat, Pray, Love released in 2010 and starring Julia Roberts. Liyer’s paintings occasionally come up for auction at the twice-yearly Larasati Bali art sales held in Ubud.

Dewa Nyoman Batuan (1939-2013) was an icon within the world of Balinese art.

Painter, entrepreneur and artist community visionary, he was graced with an effervescent personality. Batuan had a dream for his village that manifested into the Pengosekan Community of Artists in 1970. Through his entrepreneurial endeavor he helped establish international markets for the local paintings and was able to contribute enormously for the well being of the community of poor farmers, many who became painters to

supplement their family income. Batuan’s contribution to the development of Balinese modern traditional art was to fuse traditional narratives within the Buddhist structural icon of the mandala, designing compelling, unique, and highly original works.

His older brother, Dewa Putu Mokoh (19342010) broke free from the restraints of Balinese art to introduce personal and intimate visual stories of another side of life that was often quirky, lurid, and even taboo. Simplified forms dominated his compositions, a self trained artist, Mokoh’s works boarded on both the modern and contemporary, simplifying and extending the range of images in Balinese art, especially with his close-up focus on intimate scenes.

Pengosekan became the adopted home for the most important woman artist in Indonesian art history, Gusti Ayu Kadek Murniasih (1966-2006). Murni came from Tabanan, Central Bali to study with Mokoh.

She rose from the life as a child of a farmer, poor and uneducated to the ranks of artistic distinction. Her father sexually abused her at the age of nine. Murni’s minimalist figurative/ surrealistic style featured powerful coloration while communicating via the language of the sub conscious. Her outsider art is confrontational, daring and even violent, yet always electrifying. Murni’s work broke significant grounds into the social taboos of gender politics and feminism.

UbudLife 39

PILAR BATU GALLERY

Presenting fine art quality of paintings and as a painting studio of I Wayan Suarmadi ADDRESS: JALAN MADE LEBAH, UBUD, GIANYAR, BALI PHONE: 62 361 978197 | MOBILE: 62 81 23980044 EMAIL: WAYANSUARMADI75 @ GMAIL.COM WWW.PILARBATU.COM

by stephanie mee

U

bud may have a reputation as a haven for vegan and raw food eaters, but for those with carnivorous cravings there are plenty of places to sink your teeth into some seriously good meat. After all, this is the home of legendary Balinese classics like Ibu Oka’s famous babi guling and Bebek Bengil’s much sought-after crispy duck. For this issue we sought out some of the best places around town to get meat-centric dishes like Argentinian-style grilled steaks, fall-off-the-bone ribs, house-cured sausages and crispy pork belly.

NAUGHTY NURI’S For 20 years now Naughty Nuri’s has been drawing in crowds that come from far and wide just to get a taste of their famous pork ribs.

The rustic space hasn’t changed much since the early days with its tin roof, communal tables and street side grill, but that’s all part of its charm.

CAFÉ DES ARTISTES For many Ubud expats craving a decadent steak dinner there’s only one place to go and that is Cafe des Artistes.

The menu at this cosy bistro-style spot offers a good selection of European classics like the Niçoise salad, roast chicken and lamb medallions, but the beef tenderloin has always been the star dish. Steak lovers can opt for local or Australian tenderloin at either 180 grams or 280 grams per serving and choose two complimentary sides to go with the steak like sautéed parsley potatoes, grilled vegetables or broccoli gratin. Sauces are available at a small extra charge and include creamy tarragon, blue cheese, and a brandy flavoured tomato sauce with onions and mushrooms.

9x Jalan Bisma, Ubud | T: 0821 4478 9080 46 UbudLife

Each serving of ribs comes as a generous charcoal-grilled slab slathered in Nuri’s secret BBQ sauce and with the meat practically falling off the bone.

Devour your ribs as is or douse them with lashings of the fiery sambal that sits on every table.

Nuri’s is also famous for their killer martinis and margaritas that are shaken tableside and poured to the brim of the glass. Be careful though because those bad boys pack a punch and more than one patron has found themselves legless after just one or two.

Jalan Raya Sanggingan, Ubud T: 0361 977 547

EATING IN UBUD

BATUBARA Tucked away in a bend of the road next to ARMA, Batubara has a lovely courtyard setting and some of the best steaks in town. Start with a sangria and small plates like the beef empanadas as you peruse the chalkboard for the special cuts of the day. Argentinian chef-owner Pablo sources freerange pork and grass-fed beef to offer selections like the wagyu flap steak, pork shoulder, ribeye and tenderloin wrapped in sage and bacon.

Order your meats by the gram and let Pablo and his team work their magic over the wood-fired grill to add the perfect smokiness and char. Sides include hand-cut fries, grilled organic vegetables, and Parmentier potatoes mashed with butter, cream and truffle. Pair your meal with a bottle of Argentinian red, and you’ve got a meal fit for a gaucho.

Jalan Raya Pengosekan, Ubud | T: 0821 3937 7639

PICA SOUTH AMERICAN KITCHEN The space may be tiny, but Pica goes big on bold flavours and good vibes. Snag a seat on the patio if you can and kick off your South American dining experience with a cucumber margarita and shared plates like the ceviche with fresh mahi mahi marinated in lemon and tossed with cilantro, red onion, chilli and leche de tigre. Large plates are also designed to be shared, but you’re probably going to want to keep them all to yourself, as they include divine offerings like chicken in a rich yellow chilli sauce with olives, coriander and quail egg and the Black Angus ribeye in a colourful chimichurri sauce. If you really want to indulge, go for the confit pork belly with a layer of perfectly crisped skin on top of juicy, falloff-the-fork meat.

Jalan Dewi Sita | T: 0361 971 660

LOCAL PARTS Brought to us by the Locavore team, Local Parts is an artisan butcher shop where all the meats are sourced either from Bali or Java and raised cruelty-free. Think Kintamani kampung chicken, Bedugul rabbit, Java lamb, pork from traditional black Bali pigs, and air-cured Bali beef.

Ray and Eelke have also spent years perfecting their own charcuterie, so you can grab tasty items to create your own meat-tastic spread like blood sausage, duck prosciutto, salami and pork rillettes.

Be sure to check out their jarred goods because they also make their own pickles, preserves and chutneys. And if you need duck fat, consommé or chicken stock, they’ve got that too.

Jalan Dewi Sita | T: 0361 908 0757 UbudLife 47

ARTISANAL FOOD FROM BALI’ S FAR CORNER by ibu kat • image pasti enak

F

ar from Bali’s busy centres, several dedicated food artisans are producing some outstanding food products while creating employment in remote areas.

World class cheese, preserves, cashews and coffee are now available to visitors and residents.

Seek out these great products to enjoy in Bali and take home as gifts.

BALI ARTISANS

From these modest beginnings they grew to ethically produce a wide range of excellent fruit jams/jellies/marmalades, nut butters, herb salts and chutneys; pickles and kimchi are under development. The ingredients for the products are all locally sourced and processed. Bali Asli has also developed and sells environmentally friendly soaps and cleaning products.

Bali Asli is a wonderful example of how a smallscale industry can help develop local economies.

It now employs 35 people, and the fair-price purchase of local, seasonal fruits supports many remote farming families who would otherwise not be able to get their produce to market. I’ve been happily supporting this little family business since I arrived here in 2000. Their marmalades and buni fruit jelly (very close in flavour to cranberry) are favourites. Bali Asli products are available at most supermarkets or through their website www bali-asli.com East Bali is the poorest part of the island. The government planted cashew trees in the area to control erosion about 40 years ago. About 4,500 farming families in this catchment area have cashew trees on their land, but until recently this potentially valuable crop brought them very little in the way of income.

Aaron Fishman, who was volunteering in Desa Ban, East Bali, saw an opportunity to create a social venture that would bring the people livelihoods and educational opportunities.

“Indonesia produces about six percent of the world’s cashews every year but until we built the factory over 90% of them were bought cheaply by agents and exported for processing to India or Vietnam.” he told me. “With local partners, we launched East Bali Cashews in 2012 with a goal of adding value to local cashews for export at source and exporting the processed nuts internationally -- minimising the middlemen, improving the farmers’ return and creating employment on the ground.”

When the raw cashews arrive at the factory they are steamed in a huge drum for 15 minutes before being run through simple shelling machines.

50 UbudLife

Both machines are mainly powered with the biomass of discarded cashew shells. Once shelled, the nuts are air dried in ovens also powered by biomass. The skins of the nuts are peeled by rows of women who gossip as they work. Like coffee, cashews are a very labour-intensive product. It takes five kilograms of raw cashews to produce one kilogram of ready-to-eat nuts.

The company is now by far the largest employer in the area, employing abut 400 people, 90% of whom are women. As guardians of health and education within the family, women of East Bali Cashews not only earn money to invest in their children but are encouraged to develop management skills. East Bali Cashews has opened the region's first preschool, initiated farmer training programs, and improved ecological conditions. And the products are wonderful. www.eastbalicashews.com It took a long time for the world of coffee aficionados to discover Indonesia, but these days our Arabica is being described as the single malt of the coffee world.

There are several small artisanal coffee producers in Bali now. A few years ago I sipped my way around Ubud in search of the best cup of coffee. Not the foamy, milky concoctions made by machine but a simple, honest brew from a French press. From the first sip my favourite was and remains Cosmic Coffee -- rich and deep, with notes of chocolate and orange.

The product of a small group of farmers on the slopes of Mount Batur, Cosmic Coffee uses only the ripest red hand-selected, carefully fermented, sun-dried beans roasted 360 grams at a time in a home kitchen. This is the essence of artisanal coffee; the small team team produces just 10 - 15 kg a week and it disappears fast.

Available at Kue, Bali Buda, Bali Direct and Kafe, and served at Kue, Roots, Elephant and Sopa. www.cosmiccoffeebali.com

UbudLife 51

Spirit of Bali words and image ayu sekar

These shy retiring Baris dancers are taking time out to pose for the camera in all their finery.

Baris is one of Bali’s most endearing and enduring dances and always a pleasure to see.

THE ORIGINS OF BALI by jean couteau

Ida Bagus Manik Angkeran - Part 2

P

an Bekung was powerful indeed, and could foresee the future from the palm of his hand. He opened the palm of his hand, and there it was, like in the mirror, the tail or the god, perfectly healed without any trace of the wound. So he nodded to the god while telling him with a simple : "O, god, I am sure I can heal your tail and restore it to its previous condition, but would you as a favor to me restore my son to life as well," Sang Hyang Basuki agreed.

So, Pan Bekung stepped aside, and sitting cross-legged, he meditated while uttering his powerful mantras. And it worked. The god's tail was restored scabless to its former condition. So pleased was the dragon that he said: "O Pan Bekung, you are so powerful with mantras that from now on, I bestow upon you the title of 'Empu Sidhi Mantra', or "the one whose mantras are always successful" and I'll revive your son, but in a different state, 54 UbudLife

as what I burned in him were his "six causes of blindness" (peteng enem or sadripu). Now, he will live as a man of virtue.

And so he did, and Ida Bagus Manik Angkeran was brought back to life from his state of ashes. Pan Bekung (Empu Sidhi Mantra) was contented, as the god has fulfilled his promise; he was grateful too and added: "Hey, Sang Hyang Basuki, your tail is indeed beautiful now, even too beautiful; you should not keep this crown of yours on your tail, but should have it on your head, which is too bald for your state. Allow me to change it. So he went to the god's architect and ordered beautiful ampok ampok and badong to add to the crown.

And when he got it, he set it on the god's bald head. It is since then that Sang Hyang Basuki has had a beautiful crown.

Then the dragon god, addressing Ida Bagus Angkaran, spoke these words:" O, my son, your "seven sources of blindness"

CULTURAL TALES have now been burned; thus, you are ready to serve. I want you to set up a shrine for me at the foot of this mountain, and you will be the keeper of that shrine, under the nameof Sang Kulputih, the first of all mangkus (temple priests). But, O, Sang Kulputih, don't ever forget, on every Galungan, i.e on the Wednesday Kliwon of the Dungulan week, your duty is to annilihate the "seven blindness" of the self. So set up a penyor (decorative bamboo pole)as a sign of your meeting the light, as Galungan day is also "galang", the day of the light. And hang on this pole as an offering to me all the agricultural products of the world(pala bungkah and pala gantung). As a reminder, my shrine and temple will thus be called Besakih, as it means "baas akeh" or "much rice". As long as you perform your duties to me, thus, Bali will be safe and prosperous.

Thus were the words of the god, after which, Sang Kulputih set to building a beautiful temple, which is now the mother temple of Bali, the temple of Besakih, at the foot of Mount Agung. Empu Siddhi Mantra (Pan Bekung) left his son Sang Kulputih (Ida Bagus Angkeran) as the guardian of the shrine and took to the road back to Java. But the old man was still wary of his son's whims, and he decided to prevent him from going back to his home in Java. So, upon reaching the area of Gilimanuk, he took his staff and drew a deep line onto the land, creating a gorge that until today effectively separates the island of Bali from the island of Java. Having done so, smelling a fragrance from the water, he gave the place the name of Banyuwangi, the water (banyu) with a nice fragrance (wangi). He then cupped some water in his hands to drink it. The place has since been called Ketapang or the water "swallowed" (ke-taap-ang). Then the holy man went farther inland to Java,having surrendered his duties toward the dragon god Basuki to his son Kulputih.

Since these days, Sang Hyang Basuki has always been honored with offerings and ritual. He is the dragon protector of Bali. The penyor decorative pole is said to represent him. And the "mother" temple of Bali, Pura Besakih, might well owe him its name. Once upon a time, as Sang Kulputih (Ida bagus Angkeran) was walking in the vicinity of the Besakih temple, he came upon a man sitting cross-legged

on the extremity of a sharp pole set on a heap of leaves.

His name was Ki Dukuh Blatung. He was a powerful and faithful meditator. He had sworn to himself that whoever could defeat him in meditating would be given his daughter, the beautiful Ni Warsiki as a spouse. When Sang Kulputih saw Ki Dukuh Blatung thus meditating, he asked him: "Hey, Ki Dukuh, what are you doing there meditating on top of your pole with all these dirty leaves around," to which the powerful meditator replied: when the leaves are dry, I'll rub the pole till it catches fire.

Sang Kulputih was undaunted and he replied: " if you can set fire this way, I can do better.

I can burn the leaves by just peeing on them'. "If you can do it, I'll no doubt give you my daughter," said Ki Dukuh Blatung. Then Sang Kulputih want some distance away, and, opening his fly, launched a powerful spill of burning piss, which reduced the leaves to ashes. There was nothing KI Dukuh Blatung could do.

He thus surrendered his daughter to Sang Kulputih.

They thus became the first couple of priests of the temple of Besakih.

UbudLife 55

Skin

WORLD MAP

THE REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA

UBUD

ISLAND OF BALI

UBUD LOCATION Ubud, Ubud,lies liesinin the the heart heart of of Bali, Bali, in the centre of the fertile southern rice growing plains. Fertility means much more than the simple sawah or rice fields, it refers to the huge flowering of the arts which happens all around this magical town. Ubud is the home to the arts. Painting, music, dance and gamelan as well as woodcarving, maskmaking and sculpture have attracted visitors for decades.

Artists Artistsalso alsoapply applytheir their skills skills to to making making attractive things for visitors.

Whole streets, attractive things for visitors. Whole streets, like the Tegallalang Road are lined with like the Tegallalang Road are lined with crafts shop making clever knick knacks to crafts shop making clever knick knacks to tempt buyers. tempt buyers.

Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas to to view and temples and wonderous sights view and temples and wonderous sights to to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to keep keep a visitor busy for days. Enjoy! a visitor busy for days. Enjoy!

...

UbudLife 59

ubud palace-open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini arma-open stage ubud water palace-open stage bentuyung village batu karu temple-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm

legong dances barong & keris dance kecak ramayana & fire dance women performance

ubud palace-open stage wantilan padang tegal kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

ramayana ballet kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong telek trance culture

ubud palace-open stage jaba pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod kertha accommodation-monkey forest st arma-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

wed

legong & barong dance mask dance [topeng jimat] wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance kecak fire & trance dance jegog [bamboo gamelan]

ubud palace-open stage arma-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini yamasari stage-peliatan open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage pura dalem ubud-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.00 pm

thu

kecak [monkey chant dance] legong dance the barong & keris dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet]

puri agung peliatan jaba pura desa kutuh pura dalem ubud-open stage pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod bale banjar ubud kelod pondok bambu-monkey forest st

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

fri

barong dance legong dance kecak and fire dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] jegog [bamboo gamelan] barong & keris dance

ubud palace-open stage balerung stage peliatan pura padang kertha-padang tegal kelod ubud main road-oka kartini bentuyung village arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.00 pm 6.00 pm

legong dance legong dance frog dance legong dance kecak fire & trance dance the magic of jegog

ubud palace-open stage ubud water palace bale banjar ubud kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage pura dalem taman kaja-open stage arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm

every 1st and 15th: gambuh dance

pura desa batuan-open stage

7.00 pm

tue mon sun

legong of mahabrata kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance janger dance jegog [bamboo gamelan] kecak fire & trance dance

sat

ubud cultural dance performances

62 UbudLife

TIPS

pura protocol Tips for how to visit one of Bali’s fabulous temples

A

s visitors to Bali we like to know how to visit a temple graciously. Here are a few guidelines to help make a visit more enjoyable. Enjoy!

The Balinese are quite open and generally welcome visitors. You can enter most temples freely. Wear a sash around the waist and preferably a sarong. Big temples can hire a sarong at the front gate but it is nice to have your own. You can buy a sash and sarong at Ubud market or Sukawati where the choice is limitless.

When there is a ceremony on, the Balinese believe the gods have descended to the temple for the duration. All prayer and dance is performed for the benefit of the gods rather than the tourists. Be respectful. Women who are menstruating must wait outside.

Priests (Pedanda) are well respected and the most important person at the ceremony.

They occupy the highest position. Show respect and don’t try to climb on scaffolding or steps higher than the officiating priest to get a better view or photo.

If you visit a holy spring like Pura Tirtha Empul and decide to try bathing, keep your clothes on and leave the shampoo behind.

It is not a bath, but an immersion in holy water, for a spiritual cleansing.

Expect to pay a small donation before entering a temple. These donations are put to good use, and help with the upkeep of the grounds and the temple itself.

UbudLife 63

64 UbudLife

CULTURE

Bali Aga Revisited by jill alexander • image ayu sekar

We visit Bali’s most beloved traditional village and find out what’s store for the coming months. Tenganan has always attracted artists and photographers, much like Hoi An in Vietnam’s central coast.

It is the call of the exotic, the picturesque, and the traditional that does it.

Just outside the seaside resort of Candidasa on Bali’s east coast, this wonderful Bali Aga (original people) village clings to the old ways. While the rest of the world leaps into the modern world, Tenganan prefers to hang on to the old ways, to follow traditions from an era when time was more elastic and little things meant a lot.

Even while most of Bali is involved with ceremonies, it is nothing compared to the energy and devotion of this traditional village. Beloved by artists and photographers, Tenganan is a place where you can almost be guaranteed of getting great shots and a really interesting day out. Come the cooler months of late UbudLife 65

May and June, the Bali Aga’s calendar steps into high gear with ceremonies and performances almost every day of the month.

A whole calendar of events is drawn up showcasing the main events of the month.

Posted at the entrance to the old village, you can’t possibly miss it. The calendar is filled with dance and ceremony and the most popular of all – the extraordinary thorny pandan wars otherwise known as mekare kare. Theoretically and philosophically, mekare kare is dedicated to the worship of the God Indra – the god of war. The male participants of the village all draw up to fight with their friends and neighbors, but even while the fighting is fierce and looks deadly, there is no malice involved. It is more of a ritual of a way to spill blood as an offering

66 UbudLife

to the spirits. While the fighting may be fierce, the participants smile and bow at the beginning and also at the end of each bout.

Spiny pandan is rubbed into bare skin, with the sharp spines scouring the skin and drawing blood. It is a great sight for everyone because even though it is a holy ritual, there is an element of blood lust that gets the crowd going. The beautiful girls, who, dressed in their best and most beautiful, standing in the protected galleries at the side of the arena, get as excited as anyone else and seem to take a great delight in seeing their friends and neighbours getting tromped.

As for the tourists, well it is a thrilling new experience for most. From the 6 till the 8th of June, Mekare kare rituals will be in full swing and then many other events will follow on the

proceeding days, A friendly reminder, if you really would like to witness these special and amazing rituals, it is considered polite to dress appropriately, at least with a sarong and sash.

As people fall into trance they serve as a medium between the two worlds – a conduit for the spirits. Anything may happen when a person is in a state of trance - live chickens devoured, or more usually, razor sharps kris (daggers) are turned in on the Tranced person but they are rendered immune to harm and the kris will never pierce the skin.

In Bali, trance is an important shamanistic tradition and many spirit conscious people use it as a healing mode. Others visit the spiritually connected, to help with life or love problems or even to find lost objects or people.

UbudLife 67

LEGEND:

Provincial capital

Town

Places of interest

Village

Mountain

MENJANGAN ISLAND

BAL

Pemuteran Reef Building

Ja v a Fer r y to Cekik

Labuhan lalang

Sumberkelampok

Blimbingsari

Klatakan

Gerokgak

Pe

a B e a ch

Antur

Lovina

Bestala Mayong Busungbiu

Pancoran

Mt. Mesehe 1344

BA

Pangkungdedari Melaya

vin

Kalibukbuk Labuhan Haji Kaliasem Pengastulan Temukus Kalisada Seririt Dencarik Tigawasa Bubunan Banjar Sidetapa Tegallenga Ringdikit Cempaga Asah Goble

Mt. Musi 1224

Mt. Merbuk 1386

Sumbersari

Temple

A

Puri Jati [muck-diving]

Celukan Bawang

Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Bali National Park)

E I S

Lo

Sumberkima Goris Banyuwedang

Secret Bay

Gilimanuk

LETKOL WISNU AIRSTRIP Pulaki Banyupoh Kertakawat Pemuteran Gondol Melanting Penyabangan Musi

Lake

Gobleg

Tambling Mund

Subuk

LI

Candikusuma

Pupuan Pujungan Mt

Tegalasih

ST R

Airanakan

A

Banyubiru

IT

NEGARA

Cupel Munduk

Sanda

Rambutsiwi Yehsumbul Yehembang Pesinggahan Mede wi B eac Medewi h

Yehkuning

Perancak

Bat

Manggissari Asahduren

Mendoyo Yehbuah Delod Berawah

Munduk

Batungsel

Tista

Batuagung

DISTANCE [in kilometer]

Belimbing

Ampadan

BANGLI BESAKIH

Balia

CANDI DASA

Balian Beach

DENPASAR GIANYAR

Suraberata Selemad Antosari n B Lalanglinggah Bajera Ba ea ch Soka Soka Bea ch Kerambi Beraban

GILIMANUK

IN

GOA GAJAH GOA LAWAH

O

N

Tanah

E

GUNUNG KAWI

D

Tib

S

IA

AMLAPURA

C

N

OC

SEMARAPURA KUTA

C

EA

LAKE BATUR

N

LEGIAN LOVINA AIRPORT

INT

NUSA DUA SANUR SINGARAJA TANAH LOT UBUD ULUWATU

Padang Sulub

Uluw

Airport/Airstrip

Air Sanih

Sangsit Kubutambahan Beji

Bungkulan

emaron

ran Panji

Bukti

Jagaraga Bila

SINGARAJA Banyuning

Tamblang

Sukasada

Pacung

Julah Bondalem Tejakula Les

Tegal

Pegayaman Gitgit

Asahpanji

Catur

Mt. Catur 2096 Kembangmerta

Tembok Muntidesa

Bayun

Yehketipat

Bantang Penulisan

Kintamani

Lake Bratan

Bedugul Pekarangan Baturiti

tukaru

Apuan

Wongaya

T ul a

Sekardadi

Tulamben

Pengotan Penyebah

Sandakan

Seribatu

Taro

Besakih

Kayubihi

Amed

Jemeluk Wall Bunutan Reef Japanese Wreck

Jemeluk Bunutan

Pempatan Buyan

Puhu

Buahan Petang Pujung Luwus

Culik

Mt. Agung 3142

Kayuambua

Angantiga

m

Mt. Abang 2153

Penulisan Nungkung

t. Batukaru Pacung 2276 l Soka Jatiluwih Senganan

Kedisan

Penelokan

Pelaga

Lake Batur

y n Ba

Candi Kuning

Baturinggit Kubu Rubaya

Trunyan

be

gan duk

Tianyar

Mt. Batur Batur 1717

Pancasari

Lake Buyan Lake Tamblingan

Penuktukan

Sambirenteng

Gentah

Bakungan Penginyahan

k

eg

BALI MAP

Surfing spots

Diving spots

Harbour

Ababi

Abang

Gili Selang Lempuyang

Tirta Gangga Mt. Seraya Menanga 1175 Muncan AMLAPURA Seraya Selat Payangan Bebandem Tampaksiring Rendang Iseh Bangbang Bukit Bucu BANGLI Subagan Kuwum Ceking Sibetan Tembuku Sindu Buruan Ujung Saren Padpadan Kawan Sidakarya Marga Sembung Bunutan Tegallalang Paseban Asak Jasri Ngis Tenganan Jasri Batusari Timbrah Petak Manggis Sidemen Bugbug Petulu Timpag Wanasari Sangeh Buitan deg Sibang Bongkasa Ulakan Candidasa Talibeng Selat Sengkidu Biaha UBUD Blahkiuh antas Alas Kedaton Mimpang Akah Blayu Peliatan h Bedulu Padangbai A m u k B a n d i Tepekong c KLUNGKUNG ) a d as a Be ay bok Denkayu Abiansemal Silayukti Sidan Tihingan Samsam TABANAN Kutri Dawan ( Lom Ferry Channel lands Mas Is i GIANYAR il itan Mambal G Kamasan Goa Lawah Blue Lagoon Fast Boats Padangbai (Bali ) Kengetan Mengwi Gelgel Bone Tanjung Sari Sakah Gubug IT Silakarang Kusamba bubiyu Blahbatuh Tanjung Jepun Kediri Sibang RA Angantaka T Kemenuh S Lebih Muncan Pejaten Batuan OK Darmasaba Sukawati Keramas Yeh Gangga Pandakgede Singapadu MB O L Fe Beraban Sempidi rry Batubulan Celuk Pa h Lot da ng ba Ubung Lumintang T i (B Tohpati I ali ) A Kerobokan DENPASAR Canggu - Le R B e Brawa Canggu Padanggalak mb h T Sumerta a ar ( Muding Shipwreck SD S Sental Lom Umalas Pengubengan Canggu Renon Sanur bok Blue Corner Buyuk ) Jungutbatu Batubelig Sanur Kutampi Sindhu Ped LEMBONGAN ISLAND Legi Petitenget Telaga Sanglah an Sampalan Lembongan Toyapakeh B e Seminyak Batujimbar Pegok Kut ac Sentalkangin Legian Gelogorcarik Semawang CENINGAN ISLAND aB Pidada Gelagah e Crystal Bay Kuta Pesanggaran Blanjong Metakih Ponjok Kuta Bayuh Suana Malibu SERANGAN ISLAND Tuban Manta Point Semaya Serangan NGURAH RAI Batumandeg Pejukutan BENOA HARBOUR TERNATIONAL AIRPORT Ambengan Tanjung Benoa Kedonganan Batukandik Pendem Jimbaran Bay Tanglad Soyor Jimbaran Bungkit Bingin Anta Pelilit Manta Point Tabuanan Mumbul Ramoan g Padang Sedihing Bualu Geger Sekartaji Kampial ban Nusa Dua Ungasan Batuabah Sawangan watu N Pecatu Babahan

Sebatu

Bali Silent Retreat

Penebel Perean Pitra

Sulahan Singarata

C

h ac

N

DU

BA

San

ur

G

Be

ac

Ferry to N usa Pe nida

ch

h

NUSA PENIDA

us

a Dua Beac

h

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

45

50 km

ESCAPE ROOM SOS FROM THE DEEP INDONESIA’S FIRST ESCAPE GAME DEDICATED TO OCEAN CONSERVATION OPENS IN BALI Indonesia’s first ever ocean conservation themed escape room has opened its doors in Sanur, Bali welcoming players to save the world’s coral reefs and marine animals while having a fun and exhilarating experience.

Escape Room SOS from the Deep is an interactive experience where teams of 2-6 people enter a simulated underwater ocean scenario. In order to get to the next room and eventually to the exit, the teams must complete a series of puzzles to earn the next clue and gain access to the next stage. A game master guides the players and provides clues and hints to help them solve the tasks and puzzles inside the room.

Using initiative, lateral thinking and teamwork, the teams must navigate the ocean-themed experience and reach the final door within 60 minutes. Players will have to exit the room when their time is up even if they have not completed all the puzzles.

As players complete the tasks, they will be exposed to the dynamics of ocean environments, and the issues impacting the health of marine ecosystems along with facts about the Coral Triangle, which is considered the epicentre of the world’s marine biodiversity.

themselves against the puzzles. Players will come out with a greater understanding of the situation, what they can do to help, and with a smile on their face,” said CTC Executive Director Rili Djohani.

Escape Room SOS from the Deep is a project of the Coral Triangle Center (CTC), a non-profit organization based in Bali, dedicated to the protection of marine ecosystems in Indonesia and throughout the Coral Triangle. The escape room is located in CTC’s new Center for Marine Conservation in Sanur.

CTC provides education and training to make sure that marine protected áreas within the Coral Triangle - the world’s epicenter of marine biodiversity - are managed effectively.

CTC supports on-the-ground conservation in Nusa Penida in Bali and the Banda Islands in Maluku and is supporting the establishment of new marine protected areas in Maluku, North Maluku and in Timor-Leste.

“Escape Room SOS from the Deep’s primary purpose is to be a fun and interactive way to inspire people about the ocean environment, and the threats it faces while they challenge

Ms. Djohani added that Escape Room SOS from the Deep’s message is aligned with CTC’s mission to inspire people from all over the world to care for our oceans using interactive

70 UbudLife

TRANSFORMATION and immersive learning experiences. Most of all, proceeds from the escape room will support marine conservation projects in Indonesia and the Coral Triangle so players are not only having a great time but also contributing directly to conservation on the ground.

Frank Kastelein. The result is a unique combination of science-based marine conservation expertise and enhanced user experience that will surely guarantee an exciting and fun experience for everyone.

Escape Room SOS from the Deep is an allages facility, with everyone being able to play. Young professionals, millennials, and tourists can enjoy the game while packages for corporate events, conferences, team building workshops, and school groups are also available. Since opening its doors in December 2017, the escape room has attracted local celebrities, including football player Gavin Kwan Adsit. “Escape Room SOS from the Deep was an outstanding opportunity for me to learn more about ocean conservation while having a fun experience. I highly recommend coming

down to Sanur and test your instincts in the escape room. It was better than expected, “ Gavin noted in his Triadvisor review after playing the game.

Escape Room SOS from the Deep was designed by CTC in collaboration with Netherlands-based, award-winning, brand experience designer Aram Leeuw, and escape room specialist Frank Kastelein.

Follow Escape Room SOS from the Deep online and on social media for the latest updates and promotions: Website: www.sosfromthedeep.com Instagram: sosfromthedeep Facebook: Escape Room SOS from the Deep For more information about CTC, visit www. coraltrianglecenter.or UbudLife 71

RESTAURANTS

SereS Resort & Resort Jl. Jukut Paku, Singekerta, Ubud Phone: 0361 3012222 www.sereshotelsresorts.com

Bridges Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Biah Biah Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: 0361 978249 Biah-Biah+ Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976466 Buddha Bowl Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Hand phone: 081 339 339928 Cafe Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9x, Ubud Phone: 0361 972706 www.cafedesartistesbali.com Copper Kitchen & Bar Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792888 www.copperubud.com CP LOUNGE Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com DIVINE Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Down To Earth Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 7835545 www.earthcafeubud.com Folk Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080888 www.folkubud.com Folk Pool Gardens Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080888 www.folkubud.com Ibu Rai Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, Ubud Phone: 0361 973472 www.iburai.com Juice Ja Cafe Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

Villa Beji Indah Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 0361 974168 www.villabejiindah.com

Kebun Jl. Raya Hanoman 44B, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803801 www.kebunbistro.com

ACCOMMODATION Arma Resort Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976659 www.armaresort.com B.Saya Villa and Restaurant Jl. Suweta, Ubud Phone: 0361 973496 www.bsaya.com Cendana Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973243 www.cendanaresort-spa.com Korurua Jl. Tirta Tawar, Junjungan, Ubud Phone: 0361 9000496 www.koruruaubud.com Om Ham Retreat Jl. Tirta Tawar, Ubud Phone: 0361 9000352 www.omhamretreat.com Melati Cottages Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Ubud Phone: 0361 974650 www.melati-cottages.com Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng, Ubud Phone: 0361 974393 www.ubudsari.com Sri Ratih Cottages & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com SenS Hotel & Resort Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493328 www.senshotelsresorts.com

72 UbudLife

KAFE Jl. Raya Hanoman 48B, Ubud Phone: 0361 970992 ww.kafe-bali.com Monkey Legend Jl. Monkey Forest 8, Ubud Phone: 0361 981611 www.monkeylegendubud.com Nomas Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080800 www.nomasubud.com Pizza Bagus Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978520 Sri Ratih Cafe & Jewelry Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Sayuri Healing Food Jl. Sukma 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080385 www.sayurihealingfood.com Taksu Fresh Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792525 www.taksuyoga.com Warung Sopa Garden Jl. Nyuh Kuning 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 2801340 www.warungalami.jombo.com Warung Citta Ovest Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971352 Warung Siam Jl. Goutama, Ubud Hand phone: 081 239 655905 Why Not Restaurant & Bar Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 0361 9081601 Yonne Cafe & Bar SenS Hotel & Resort Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493328 www.senshotelsresorts.com

NIGHT LIFE CP Lounge Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com

SPAS

SHOPS

PROPERTY Red Lotus Property Jl. Sukma, Br. Tebesaya, Ubud Phone: 0361 970980 www.redlotusbaliproperty.com

Aura Theraphy Spa Jl. Hanoman 888, Ubud Phone: 0361 972956 www.ubudaura.com

Bambooku Jl. Hanoman 32, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803119 www.bambooku.com

Bali Healing Spa Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 973067 www.balihealingspa.com

Kunci Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 971050 www.kuncicottonknit.com

Bali Botanical Day Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976739 www.balibotanica.com

Nirmala - Work On T’shirt Jl. Hanoman 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 7475404

Taksu Galleria Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792508 www.taksuspa.com

Rainbow Spirit Jl. Hanoman 38, Ubud Hand phone: 085 100 126053 www.rainbowspiritbali.com

Pilar Batu Gallery Jl. Made Lebah, Ubud Phone: 0361 978197 www.pilarbatu.com

Cocoon Medical Spa Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest 8, Ubud Hand phone: 0811 3882241 www.cocoonmedicalspa.com FRESH Spa Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493677 KUSH Ayurvedic Rejuvenation Spa Yoga Barn - Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971236 www.yogabarn.com/kush Milano Salon Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973488 Sang Spa Jl. Jembawan 13B, Ubud Phone: 0361 976500 www.sangspaubud.com Sri Ratih Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Sala Japan Beauty Care Jl. Jembawa, Padang Tegal, Ubud Phone: 0361 977803 www.absbysala.com Sedona Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975770 www.sedonaspa-ubud.com SKIN Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Goutama 24 & Jl. Sanggingan 36, Ubud Phone: 0361 975615 & 0361 975604 rsvp@ubudSkinOrganic.com Taksu Spa and Restaurant Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971490 www.taksuspa.com

Sensatia Botanicals Jl. Monkey Forest 64, Ubud Phone: 0361 3400011 www.sensatia.com Studio Perak Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 974244 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Hand phone: 081 236 51809 www.dketut37@yahoo.com

GALLERIES

CERAMICS Sari Api Ceramics Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

SISI Jl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Hand phone: 085 103 235151 www.sisibag.com SISI Jl. Sriwedari No.12, Ubud Hand phone: 085 100765895 YIN Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 970718 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 8468510 Jl. Hanoman Hand phone: 085 100801879 www.yinjewelryforthesoul.com

ARTISTS Wayan Karja [Painter] Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Hand phone: 081 239 76419 Wayan Sila [Owl House] Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 977649 | Mobile: 081 8566861

YOGA CENTRE Bali Silent Retreat Banjar Mongan, Penatahan, Penebel, Tabanan, Bali www.balsilentretreat.org Ojas Prana Jl. Tirta Tawar, Banjar Junjungan, Ubud Phone: 0361 9083712 www.ojasprana.com Yoga Barn Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 0361 971236 www.theyogabarn.com UbudLife 73

SPORT/RECREATION

USEFUL NUMBERS Ambulance

Mason Adventures Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 721480 www.masonadventures.com

Airport Authority

Ubud Horse Stables Phone: 081 339585666 www.ubudhorsestables.com

VISA/LEGAL AFFAIRS

MUSEUMS ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum of Art ) Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 974228 Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 975502 Museum Puri Lukisan Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, Gianyar Phone: 975136 Neka Art Museum Jl. Raya Sanggingan Phone: 975074 Pendet Museum Jl. Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 971338 Rudana Museum Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 975779

227711

Directory Inquiries

108/112

Fire Brigade

113

Immigration

751038

International Red Cros

226465

Search and Rescue

EAST BALI SECTION

161 751111

Sanglah Public Hospital

227911

Tourist information Center

753540

Time Ubud Tourist Information

103 973286

Ashyana Candidasa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41359 www.ashyanacandidasa.com Coral View Villas Jl.Raya Bunutan Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23493 www.coralviewvillas.com Le-Zat Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41538, 41539 www.balicateringservices.com Le 48 Hotel & Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa 48, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41177 www.lezatbeachrestaurant.com Villa Matanai Jasri Beach - East Bali Phone: +6281337611010 www.villamatanai.com

NORTH BALI SECTION The Hamsa Resort Jl. Air Terjun Sing-Sing, Lovina, Phone: +62 813 3719 4975 Amertha Bali Villas Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Phone: 0362 94831 www.baliamerthavillas.com Taman Sari Bali Resort and Spa Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Phone: 0362 93264, 94765

74 UbudLife

Bali Police Department

Post Office

HIGHWAY Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 972107 www.highwaybali.com

118 751011

CONSULATES Australia

241118

Brazil

757775

Czech Republic

286465

Denmark & Norway

701070

French

285485

Germany

288535

Hungary

287701

Italy

701005

Japan

227628

Mexico

223266

Netherlands

761502

Spain/Portugal

769286

Sweden & Finland

288407

Switzerland

751735

Unitedkingdom

270601

USA

233605

UbudLife 75

,, ,, I am Bali

LAST WORD

Mark Ulyseas

I came to this isle a long time ago bearing the supreme gift of faith, among the many fabulous delights of my world.

I saw you walking topless among the banana fronds gently working the earth in the monsoon drizzle.

I covered your breasts with a kebaya like the morning dew and placed in your hands flowers.

I taught you how to prepare exotic food offerings with ingredients from your gardens.

I helped you build the many beautiful places of worship.

I reminded you every day to never forget the seen and unseen for your every breath and deed added to the aura of the isle.

The synergy between us created the meridian of hope, of love applauded by ceremonies.

But as the years grew you moved away from my embrace, creating your own world festooned with your ego. The created becoming the creator.

We lost each other in the urgency of the crowds massing across the isle. Crowds from far off lands.

You severed yourself from me... my old being - like a wellworn table at a warung that still served the multitude… the new you - like a plastic chair whose colour has faded in the noon day sun.

You didn’t recognise me sitting before you with gnarled fingers in a bowl of rice.

You didn’t hear my chants as I placed a small offering at the foot of a tree. My prayers to spirits drowned out by your raucous pageantry.

We became strangers living in a house once occupied by humbleness towards Nature, respect of the self, a celebration of the atman.

Now, as I stand alone watching the ebb and flow of life on the isle with the intermediaries of the absurd riding a black bull, I have just this to ask in all humility… ‘’Who are you?”

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

You didn’t recognise me walking down the road bent over by a load of produce from my small farm.

Mark Ulyseas Publisher/Editor, http://www.liveencounters.net Free online magazine from village earth.

76 UbudLife