Ubud Life 40th Edition

UbudLife NO. 40 • SEPTEMBER - NOVEMBER 2019

guide to ubud & beyond, bali lifestyle, people, arts, yoga, spirit, culture and cuisine

READY FOR A BIG NIGHT OUT BEST RICEFIELD WALKS ARTS PATRONAGE

THE WILDS OF NORTH EAST BALI

free

Taksu Spa – in the heart of Ubud Here are six unbeatable reasons to drop by the gorgeous Taksu Spa at the start of your holiday: 1. No pain, just gain!

Welcome to Bali, it’s time for you to kick back and enjoy your Bali experience! Your time at Taksu will give you many great memories to share. Here you will enjoy a wide range of feel good and remedial massages, facial treatments, grooming, and body therapies. There are treatments for every member of your family, your party group or for that special occasion. Ideal after a long flight or a big night out! A Reflexology or foot massage is a great idea for rice field or ridge walkers, push bikers, stay-out-too-late-dancers or shoppers buying gifts. Foot massage helps prevent foot and ankle injuries, reduces headaches, and helps regulate blood pressure. For the regular Spa goers, try the Taksu signature Balinese Premium or Esalen massage.

And if you are a beginner, or shy, try the Soother, a perfect head, neck & shoulder massage without oil or having to take your clothes off. Mineral baths also have great restorative benefits for those suffering from any of the above as well as low back pain, arthritis, fibromyalgia and osteoarthritis. Even something as simple as Aromatherapy has been reported to improve depression and insomnia.

2. Raw, Vegan, Vegetarian & Ala Carte Menu Enjoy a meal together! Taksu is the place you can take everyone no matter what their food and drink requirements are. The cool garden setting away from the busy roads is the perfect place to hangout. Try different taste sensations or choose from a list of favorites. Your taste buds will be happy. Voted #2 Raw food restaurant 2017.

4. Time out together in a jungle oasis in the heart of Ubud

What better way to say ‘I love you’ than spoiling each other? If there is one thing couples can agree on, you won’t say no to a day of pampering together. Enjoy full body massages, scrubs, flower or mineral baths with a scrumptious lunch or dinner. Romance Bali style.

5. Happy Mind & Happy Body – Over tired,

Gained some weight or feeling the years getting to you? From the Far Infra Red Sauna to clearing mental & physical blockages with Access Consciousness, Theta Healing, Ground Alpha Alignment, to understanding your Ayurvedic life balance. Try an immersive Sound Bath, sort out your thyroid or gut health with our Nutritionist/GP, learn or practice Yoga, get that long overdue Colonic or check out the new range of IV infusions for your total well-being. Take home specific information for your ongoing good health & happiness. Try the Taksu Wellness Programs.

6. And I’m Feeling Good – It’s all about the

experience. You’ll be telling your friends and family all about the amazing experience you had in Bali including Taksu Spa. Do something nice for yourself or surprise your partner with a Gift Certificate to use while you are in Ubud. This is a perfect gift for the person who has everything, or doesn’t want for anything. All the while knowing you are giving back to this beautiful tropical island and its people.

3. De-stress after work and play

Trying to balance work and life with today’s hectic lifestyle, it’s no wonder we area all stretched to our limits. It’s time to do something nice for yourself. So what do you do? Get back on track with a whole day Spa package, treating yourself from head to toe.

You are worth it!

T: +62-361-479-2525 or +62-361-971-490 WA: +62 822 3613 0676 | Instagram: taksuspa FB Facebook: /TaksuUbudBali

EDITOR’S NOTE

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UbudLife MAG Om Swastiastu and welcome to Ubud Life number 40! Yes this little magazine has been on the road for ten years already and still going strong.

To celebrate we bring you the usual eclectic collection of stories, from the world of art written by our art writer Richard Horstman, to Bali’s best rice field walks by Stephanie and lots more.

Recently, an Indonesian paper described an experiment involving Ubud that will need a lot of research. Will Ubud be considered as one of the food capitals of the world? While that may be a bit of an exaggeration, this little town certainly offers an extraordinary range of cuisines, thanks in large part to the huge expat population who have made it their home.

From new age vegan, to vegetarian to Turkish to international eclectic, Chinese, Balinese, Greek, Argentinian, Indonesian, Italian, Japanese and Mexican, its all here. Seek and ye shall find.

And not only find, but enjoy, as the quality of most of the food is great, sustained by fresh (often organic) produce from the nearby hills. Ubud only grows in stature and the quality of life. Now if they could just fix the traffic!

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

THE EDITOR

Cover photo by Putu Santosa This Wayang Wong group from Tejakula is the most authentic on the island. This dance drama is slow and remniscent of the Noh drama of Japan.

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editor ubudlife-gsb team creative graphic designer dedito ssn. photographer i gusti ketut windia sales and marketing ketut muliartani finance yukmang susilawati distribution ubudlife-gsb team contibutors richard horstman stephanie mee rachel love ayu sekar publisher GSB (gemini studio bali) jalan gunung tangkuban perahu III/4, denpasar barat - bali 80361 p: 0361 8495479, 0361 8447982 e: sales@geministudio-bali.com w: www.ubudlife.com director putu santosa views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. all material copyright ©2010 (gsb) gemini studio bali. the publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.

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UBUD’S BEST RICE FIELD WALKS

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IS UBUD BALI’S LATEST SHOPPING SCENE

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PLANNING A BIG NITE OUT

THE WILDS OF NORTH EAST OF BALI

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IS UBUD BALI’S LATEST SHOPPING SCENE

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BALINESE ART PATRONAGE NOW & THEN

Ubud’s Best

Rice Field Walks by stephnie me • images by ayu sekar

W

alk down Ubud’s main streets these days and you would be forgiven for thinking you were in a busy urban centre. However, one of the main draws of this unique corner of Bali is there are still plenty of pockets of lush greenery to be found. Hidden behind the ubiquitous shops, restaurants and villas are a few secret and not-so-secret paths that lead to gorgeous rice terraces, meandering rivers and vibrant rainforests.

If you’re looking to escape the traffic and crowds and commune with nature, these are some of Ubud’s best rice field and countryside walks.

Campuhan Ridge The Campuhan Ridge is undoubtedly Ubud’s most famous nature walk. Rising between two branches of the Wos River, this grassy ridge offers unobscured views of rolling hills and river valleys.

To get there, head to the Ibah Hotel driveway and follow the path on the left that goes under the Campuhan Bridge, along the Pura Gunung Lebah temple walls and up to the cobblestone trail that traverses the hill. Walk the full length of the ridge and you’ll end up in the padi fields of Bangkiang Sidem where you can refuel with classic Indonesian eats at Karsa Kafe. For the best photo ops, we suggest coming just after sunrise when the light is surreal and the path is relatively free of other people.

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GETTING FRESH

Subak Juwuk Manis It’s hard to believe you can step off Ubud’s bustling main road and be in the midst of padi fields in just a few minutes, but that’s the magic of Subak Juwuk Manis. Look for the wooden sign beside Paon restaurant that points you down a narrow alleyway. The alleyway winds along the side of the building and up to a set of stairs next to a crumbling abandoned building, which doesn’t look very promising, but after that you’ll find yourself on a quaint path that meanders past rice fields, streams and ponds filled with ducks. Stop at Sweet Orange Warung for a coffee or fresh juice before following the trail to its end at the top of Jalan Kajeng.

Jalan Subak Sok Wayah Jalan Subak Sok Wayah is another trail that’s easily accessible from central Ubud. Look for the Abangan Bungalows sign just before the Campuhan Bridge and hike up the steep driveway, following the road to Nanda’s Warung. Take the path on the right side of the long stone wall and you’ll soon be out in the rice fields.

To be honest, the beginning of the path is a bit depressing as it’s now cluttered with cafes, guesthouses and spas, but keep going past Sari Organik and the path opens up to some pretty spectacular scenery. Think undulating fields of padi, towering coconut trees and rushing rivers. The trail goes all the way up to Kelabing Moding and ends just before Pyramids of Chi.

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Jalan Cinta If you don’t mind heading outside of central Ubud, Jalan Cinta is worth seeking out. Located at the top of Jalan Tirta Tawar a few hundred metres after the Om Ham Resort, this narrow road runs through a sea of rice fields backed by walls of jungle. Even though it’s paved, the road still sees few vehicles, which makes it popular with joggers and cyclists. The rice terraces are particularly stunning at sunrise and sunset when the pastel hues reflect in the pools and birds and bats flit through the fields. As you near the end of the road, you can stop at Green Kubu Cafe for a bite and try the giant swing that propels you over the jungle.

Penestanan Kelod/Sayan Despite undergoing rampant development over the past few years, Penestanan and neighbouring Sayan still harbour a few patches of greenery that haven’t been completely consumed by concrete yet. One lovely stretch lies in between Penestanan Kelod and Sayan. To get there, follow the signs to Moksa, but instead of turning into the café, take the road straight to either Good Earth Farm or Naya Ubud. Behind both you’ll find an easy-going footpath that makes a huge loop around rice fields and flower gardens. Late afternoon is a great time to go because the sun won’t be as strong and you’re likely to meet plenty of locals flying kites and out for walks.

Gang Titi Buah Kutuh Kaja used to be renowned for its rice fields, but sadly they’re rapidly disappearing to make way for new villas and hotels. However, the Titi Buah rice fields seem to have escaped the purge for now, and they make for a nice departure from the cacophony of construction sites along Jalan Tirta Tawar. Look for the small gang before AA Warung & Laundry and follow the steep road all the way to the fork. Here you can either turn left along the footpath or walk up the stairs and head straight into the fields. It should be noted that some of the paths are just narrow ridges between the patches of padi , so you’ll have to channel your inner rice farmer to avoid falling in.

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Infusing Goodness at Taksu by ayu sekar

through the vein rather than a injection into the skin.

It takes about 90 minute to absorb, although I could feel the calming and soothing effect after mere minutes.

If slipping back into a meditative state doesn’t appeal, Taksu have come up with the brilliant concept of a nice distracting pampering while you have your infusion.

V

itamin infusions have been around for a while but now Taksu is taking the experience to new heights.

Not only are they doing anti -ageing combinations, but also health boosters, brain boosters, Bali Belly boosters – and all kinds of other things we need to feel good.

Each infusion comprises a cocktail of vitamins and minerals designed for maximum effect and each is designed for a specific purpose. First and foremost is the Anti Ageing mix – which helps to slow down the cellular damage that comes with age. The Brain Booster fights memory loss and brain fog with a specific mix of minerals while the Fitness Boost helps heal the gut with essential amino acids and minerals. There is anther blend for hangovers and another if you are suffering from Bali Belly while the popular Energy Boost helps maximize muscle growth, improve circulation and stamina with the help of magnesium. All the blends are good and worth a try.

After deciding what you need you lie down or sit in the big comfy chair and have the infusion needle inserted. The dosage is much higher than normal and so to absorb as many of the nutrients as possible they are administered

You can choose from reflexology, a facial, and mask or even a mani - pedi which are all designed to make you feel good and allay boredom. Dr Yuli has come up with many innovative treatments – and as her special field is anti – ageing from the inside rather then cosmetic, it is all good you’re your health.

She will consult with you before starting the treatment and can advise you on many other health issues as well.

Infusions are just one of the many innovative treatments available at Taksu which is becoming Ubud’s top spa and wellness centre on so many levels.

Taksu Wellness Centre www.taksuspa.com T: (0361) 971490 UbudLife 17

happenings around ubud

THE YOGA BARN The Yoga Barn continues to expand with a full range of activities and healing modules. Want to be a yoga teacher? Then sign up for one of the teacher training courses that will teach the basics in just a couple of weeks. Want to be healed with sound? Have your chakras balanced? Release your myofascial and yin yoga? No problem. Learn about Ayurveda, the 5000 year old Indian healing system.

Or explore the theories of yogic philosophy? Or just eat pure healthy food? Its all possible.

Sign up for the Yoga Barn Newsletter @ www.theyogabarn.com and see how you can improve your life! OMMMM

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TAKSU SPA and WELLNESS CENTRE upgrades its RESTAURANT After a Taksu healing session or a yoga workout, it’s nice to relax with a coffee or a light meal, and even nicer in a garden atmosphere.

Taksu’s popular garden Restaurant with its cosy niches and extra fresh menu of salads and more is about to complete a renovation to bring guests even better service. A restaurant where chefs step into the garden to harvest the greens has to be good and after renovation if will be even better.

A big new kitchen has been added to make service even better and a whole new menu. It is expected to open by early September. www.taksuspa.com

UBUD READERS and WRITERS FESTIVAL 2019 Come October, from 23-27, the Ubud Writers Festival will swing into action. More than 150 writers, artists and activists, performers and more come together to present at the Festival. This year’s theme is Karma, which should bring up some interesting discussions.

Free events, book launches help the festive occasion as well as the workshops, and popular sessions that are so well attended. www.ubudwritersfestival.com

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ART IN UBUD Ubuds vibrant art scene continues to glisten with talent with both Balinese and foreign artists inspired by the islands incredible energy.

BLUE BEAR RESTAURANT and SKATE PARK Blue Bear Restaurant at the Skate Park just off Jl Raya Sayan is fast becoming an institution. Situated in a lofty bamboo structure, not only is it a great restaurant and pleasant place to chill, it is also a music venue when it hosts bands on Wednesdays and Sundays.

Yet Blue Bear also has a host of great initiatives. Working with the banjar, and various programs, it has become an important part of the community. The skate park is free to use if you pay with plastic, which is a great encouragement.

Two galleries that continue to hold exhibitions as well as displaying permanent collections are the fabulous ARMA Complex in Pengosekan and the Tony Raka Gallery in Mas. Both have huge display areas where viewing is a pleasure.

The Gaya Gallery in Sayan has recently changed hands and we can expect some exciting new developments soon.

Anyone wanting to practise painting and life drawing can head to the Pranoto Gallery on the Goa Gajah road past the Mas turnoff. These popular classes give burgeoning artists a chance to work in stimulating surroundings with like minded people.

Orphanage groups are hosted to come and skate or children can also learn different things like music, skating, reading, following rules to be a good community member and much more. The whole place has a great energy, with all kinds of groups being at home there.

Blue Bear is easy to find with a turn off on Jl Raya Sayan just before the back road to Penestanan. It’s on the way to Moksa which is already quite well documented. So for a coffee, a meal, music or to find a way to lend a hand in the community, head to Blue Bear – they are doing it right. www.bluebear bali.com

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PLANNING A BIG NITE OUT by stephanie mee • images by taksu spa

U

bud has no shortage of spas, which means you have tons of options when it comes to getting pampered and primped. Even better, some offer specialty beauty treatments that go above and beyond your run-of-the-mill facials or hair cream baths. Whether you’re looking to get spiffed up for an upcoming event or just want a day of divine treatments that will leave you looking and feeling great, these are Ubud’s best spas for all your beauty and grooming needs.

Cocoon Medical Spa for Anti-ageing Aesthetic Treatments Award-winning Cocoon Medical Spa offers international standard aesthetic treatments at a fraction of what you would pay in Western countries. Think no-needle mesotherapy to stimulate collagen production, laser skin resurfacing, botox and microdermabrasion. They also offer holistic treatments like 24-carat gold facials, all-natural oxygen jet peels and salt room halotherapy. All treatments are administered by cosmetic doctors who have trained with experts from Australia and the UK. Jalan Monkey Forest | Tel: 0811 388 2241 www.cocoonmedicalspa.com 24 UbudLife

Fresh Spa for De-Frizzing Hair Treatments If the humidity in Bali has your hair frizzed out and frazzled, make your way to Fresh Spa for one of their famous Keratin treatments. Located in the bottom bend of Dewi Sita, this cosy spa has a dedicated hair salon on the upper floor where trained hair stylists work their magic.

The Keratin treatment involves applying natural protein to the hair to straighten it and strengthen against breakage. The result is smooth tresses for up to three months. The team can also do feather hair extensions, French braiding and special occasion up-dos and styling. They have a nice ine in eyelashes as well as massage and other beauty treatments Jalan Dewi Sita | Tel: 0361 849 3677 www.freshspabali.com

Sala Japan Beauty Care Just off Jl Hanoman when you turn right after Kafe and Kebun, the clean cut Sala Spa offers all the essential beauty treatments.

Eyelash extensions at bargain prices, mani/pedis, facials and foot massage are all done by friendly staff and everyone likes it!

Jalan Jembawan No.1 Padangtegal Tel: 0361 977803 | www.absbysals.com

BEAUTY TREATMENTS

Taksu Spa for Rejuvenating Facials Tucked away in a lush, jungle cloaked corner of Jalan Gootama South, Taksu Spa puts you at ease from the minute you walk into the zen-like gardens. The spa menu offers a slew of soothing body and beauty treatments including nourishing facials to cleanse, tone and boost tired skin. Depending on your skin type, the therapists will whip up a bespoke organic concoction using all-natural ingredients like cucumber, aloe vera, papaya, lemon water and green tea for soft, supple, and radiant looking skin. They also do eyelashes and some other interesting treatments Jalan Gootama Selatan Tel: 0361 479 2525 www.taksuspa.com

Skin Spa&Organic Waxing Salon for Hair Removal For silky smooth skin that’s ready for the beach or pool, make your way to Skin Spa. Start with a cleansing body exfoliation with herbal scrubs made from plant-based ingredients like avocado, coconut and green tea. Then lie back and relax as the expert therapists apply all-natural wax to strip away unwanted hairs quickly and efficiently. The treatment ends with a rosewater spray that cools the skin and prevents redness. The therapists can cover any area big or small including eyebrows, chins, backs, legs and bikini lines.

Jalan Gootama & Jalan Sanggingan | Tel: 0361 975 604 | www.ubudskinorganic.com UbudLife 25

Milano Salon for Haircuts and Styling

Vive Salon & Spa for Lashes and Brows

Ask any expat in Ubud where they get their hair done, and chances are they’ll say Milano.

This buzzing little spa is almost always busy with repeat customers who come back time after time for the friendly vibes and professional services. The stylists can do everything from simple trims for men and women to layers, highlights, straightening, shaving and complete colour transformations.

If you have time to spare, The Murano package is a nice add-on as it includes a hair cream bath, cleansing facial, manicure and pedicure and eyelashes – the new big thing!.

Who wants to mess with makeup in a hot tropical climate? Vive Salon & Spa specialises in eyelash extensions and brow and lash tinting so you can look your best without having to worry about your makeup running in the heat or at the pool. The technicians use only quality products like Belmacil lash and brow tint from Australia and authentic Siberian mink and silk eyelash extensions.

Keep in mind the spa services are in pretty high demand (Chrissy Tiegan and John Legend even stopped in on their last Bali trip), so we recommend booking well in advance.

Jalan Monkey Forest (beside CP Lounge) Tel: 0361 973 488

Jalan Monkey Forest | Tel: 0857 3876 1000 www.vivebali.com

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Setia Ceramic & Arts made to order

BALI FREE MAP We reach across the island - everywhere in bali! make your advertising dollar go further and be seen on our complete big BALI MAP! email: micsetia@yahoo.com

Studio Setia Jalan Sriwedari Br. Tegallantang No.59 - Ubud Gallery Setia Jalan Goutama No.22 Br. Padangtegal Kaja - Ubud

INFO TEL: 081353320709 or [0361] 8495479

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Yin Jewelr y

the store with a story by ayu sekar • images by joanna witt

T

hese little store fronts called Yin, dotted around Ubud, hold a wealth of interesting and affordable jewelry and a host of stories. Owner Joanna Witt – a long time resident and world traveller has plenty of tales to tell if you ever get the chance to meet her.

While there are three stores dotted around Ubud, it is not the only location. There are two more in the Gilis – one on Gili T and a second one on Gili Air. The bulk of the silver jewelry is not too expensive and shoppers can indulge themselves without emptying their budget. And then the story unfolds. Joanna has always been a great believer in giving back and not only is she a founding partner in the Yayasan that backs the well regarded Pelangi School, but she has also always supported Robin Lim’s worthy Bumi Sehat clinic and hospital.

One more initiative that she has been involved with is a silver workshop at the Kerobokan Prison where inmates are given the chance to learn and make jewelry. There is a whole line called MULE JEWELS that is designed and made by the inmates. Styles range from the spiritual to more funky macho styles suited to men and all profits are ploughed back into the organization.

Not only has it made life more bearable for many of the inmates, but sometimes it has given life changing opportunities. It has also given Joanna a broader and more meaningful perspective on life – positive effects for everyone involved. It has led to the creation of a very attractive range of the iconic MULE Jewels that comes in bronze and silver!

Most of Joanna’s designs are inspired by nature.

Simply beautiful and created in fine 925 silver.

One of her most successful lines is the “mantra mandalas” – silver ring pendants inscribed in English on one side and Sanskrit, the other. They are almost irresistible for all kinds of people.

Joanna’s greatest love is gemstones, which she collects wherever she is travelling – Hong Kong, Bangkok, Jaipur in India, Myanmar, Cambodia, Sri Lanka and more. Her newest range reflects that love as she experiments with mixing white coral sand from the Gilis mixed crushed gemstones of various colours! What a great idea! Others incorporate crushed gemstones alone and each style is then set in resin to give a highly polished and rich look.

If you are looking for something special yet affordable or would like to try the jewelry making workshop in Gili T, just check the website or instagram or facebook page for more information. Or just pop into one of the shops.

Facebook: yinjewelry Instagram: Yin Silver Making Class or Mule Jewels or yinjewelryforthe soul. www.yinjewelryforthesoul UbudLife 33

The beautiful girls stand in the gallery watching their men beat each other with pandanus leaves in Tenganan.

SPIRIT OF BALI

IS UBUD BALI’S LATEST SHOPPING SCENE by ayu sekar

I

s Ubud the newest shopping paradise of Bali? Is it transcending those places of the south? It seems that Greater Ubud is not all yoga shops and new age goddesses. With a history of art and artisans, its not surprising that great new stuff continues to appear.

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SHOPPING The quaint streets are walkable and you never know what you might find.

To make it even more attractive, here are several high end restaurants and warungs too, all tucked in between.

Another area is the long Sanggingan Road that leads up from the Campuhan Bridge. Starting before the bridge where you find some adorable ceramics, mugs plates and teapots, take a car or a bike and head up the long hill. Biasa and a host of newer shops seem to hover around Naughty Nuris, where you can always pop in for a cool cocktail or a [plate of delicious BBQ pork spare ribs.

A friend of mine who runs very popular shopping tours remarked to me recently that some of her high end American guests were finding Seminyak and Sanur were looking a bit tired. Ubud with its long streets and beautiful vistas and a arty history seems to be gaining credentials.

Starting from the abundant bargain priced bazaar /market atmosphere of Andong that stretches almost all the way to Tegallallang, this road is lined with teeny shops and workshops. They sell all manner of creative knick knacks, statues, in fact, everything you could possibly dream of, in this shoppers paradise. While some of the products are available down south, you can find them much more reasonably priced closer to their source. Take half a day and trawl these streets, whether you want to stock a shop, provide designer details for your new villa or just have fun.

Then there are the small streets around JL Dewi Sita, where artisans and burgeoning designers are selling innovative jewellery and fashion.

Then at the end of the Sanggingan Road, when you turn into the Sayan road to the left you can head to Gaya Ceramics, which is making waves internationally with their fine quality wares. They hold ceramics classes as well and anyone interested in immersing themselves in the fine world of ceramics should look no further.

So look beyond the cheap knick knacks and tourist fare and you may just find some really nice stuff to take home and enjoy.

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BALINESE ART

Balinese Art Patronage now & then by richard horstman • images by richard horstman

The art form thrived because its patrons were the highest-ranking kings of Bali. Patronage has played a defining role in Balinese art, and there are many fascinating stories about the development of the art, and the characters involved, both from the present, and the past.

The Kamasan paintings feature two-dimensional compositions with imagery derived from the Wayang shadow puppet theatre, one of the original story telling methods in the Balinese Hindu culture that may be traced back over 2000 years to India. Often depicting battles between the forces of good and bad, the narratives originate from the Hindu and Buddhist texts, and old Javanese-Balinese folktales.

B

alinese painting has a rich and unique history dating back over 400 years. Originally the work of artisans from the East Javanese Majapahit Empire (13-16th Century), this special narrative style of painting expanded into Bali in 1343 when the Majapahit conquered Bali, introducing the Hindu culture, and institutions.

The collapse of the empire in 1515 led to the mass migration of the Majapahit aristocracy to Bali, and from the 16th - 20th centuries, the village of Kamasan, Klungkung, East Bali was the epicenter of classical Balinese painting.

The paintings decorate Balinese temples and adorn the houses of the aristocracy.

They communicate about the philosophies of life, religion, ethics and morals, as well as flora and fauna and astrology, while serving to bring peace and harmony to society. Referred to as an ancient academic art, it differs from modern systems by placing more emphasis on contemplation, the role of the senses, meditation and direct application.

The formation of the Dutch colonial state in the early UbudLife 45

20th century had a massive, disruptive impact upon the Balinese social structures. Patronage was previously inherent to social belonging: the king, village, or clan commissioned a work from an artist, or a group of artists for some rice, or possibly a piece of land. Under foreign rule artists no longer worked solely for their palaces, yet had to contribute free manual labour, suffering loss of status, privileges, and the spiritual returns of working for royalty.

A revolutionary period of creativity began in Ubud in the 1930’s having a dramatic effect upon the traditional art, along with the lives of many Balinese. A new genre was born, Balinese modern traditional art, featuring the introduction of western techniques with more realistic iconography, and modern narratives to cater to a burgeoning market for souvenirs purchased by the initial wave of foreign tourists to visit Bali. Important patronage came from early western settlers, along with the Ubud royal family, who later in 1954 opened Ubud’s first museum, Puri Lukisan.

A new era of private patronage began, post 1970’s, during the second wave of tourism, when successful art dealers became gallerists, and then museum founders in Ubud. Suteja Neka opened the Neka Art Museum, Agung Rai established ARMA, and Nyoman Rudana opened the Rudana Museum.

An important modern day chapter of art patronage is accredited to Australian collector Colin McDonald QC, who first visited Bali in 1983. “I was immediately arrested by the beauty of the landscape, along with the art, and was eager to return,” said McDonald, who at the time was a collector of Australian aboriginal art.

Budhiana, and another by the Lodtunduh bird painter Ketut Rudi. McDonald later met and befriended the artists.

Upon his first visit to the Rudana Gallery, McDonald was attracted to the natural, aesthetic, and spiritual qualities of the art. In 1984 he purchased his first Balinese paintings, one by the abstract expressionist Made

The process of becoming an art connoisseur is driven by a thirst for knowledge, and meeting and learning from other collectors and experts. McDonald frequented the Rudana Gallery, and later the Neka Museum, and there

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“I was especially attracted to gentle, insightful and spiritual temperaments of the two artists,” McDonald said. “After I visited Budhiana’s home and witnessed the depth and power of his work, I starting buying directly from him.”

Gallery, and later the Neka Museum, and there he met important Indonesian collectors who were willing to share about their passion.

McDonald started collecting contemporary art and he loved to immerse himself in the local art community. Today he owns more than 400 pieces, sketches, drawings paintings, installations and sculptures. In 2011 he went on to establish, in conjunction the Northern Center for Contemporary Art in Darwin, the “Artist’s Camp” for Indonesian and Balinese artists to visit the Northern Territory of Australia to interpret the landscape and the indigenous culture.

“Art is a celebration of life, and a great companion. It speaks of cultural and religious tolerance, and the importance of ceremony,” McDonald said, who found art a perfect refuge from a stressful law career.

“The Balinese artists have an extraordinary sensitivity to seeing the world and the universe with an intelligence and receptivity to both the seen and unseen worlds. The western world, however, often neglects this, and this reflects the spiritual gaps within western contemporary culture, along with their struggles.”

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Presenting fine art quality of paintings and as a painting studio of I Wayan Suarmadi ADDRESS: JALAN MADE LEBAH, UBUD, GIANYAR, BALI PHONE: 62 361 978197 | MOBILE & WA: 62 81 338730435 EMAIL: WAYANSUARMADI75 @ GMAIL.COM WWW.PILARBATU.COM

Fly Cafe

Velvet

Palm Cloud Nine

Skin

Nomas Folk Pool Gardens

Kayma Spa

Setia Ceramic

Bodyworks

Gedong Sisi

Sang Spa

Sayuri

Om Ham Retreat

Nature Resort

Ubud Floating Garden

WORLD MAP

THE REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA

UBUD

Sisi

Pizza Bagus Kafe Topi

Monkey Legend

Garden Sopa

ISLAND OF BALI

UBUD LOCATION Ubud, Ubud,lies liesinin the the heart heart of of Bali, Bali, in the centre of the fertile southern rice growing plains. Fertility means much more than the simple sawah or rice fields, it refers to the huge flowering of the arts which happens all around this magical town. Ubud is the home to the arts. Painting, music, dance and gamelan as well as woodcarving, maskmaking and sculpture have attracted visitors for decades.

Artists Artistsalso alsoapply applytheir their skills skills to to making making attractive things for visitors.

Whole streets, attractive things for visitors. Whole streets, like the Tegallalang Road are lined with like the Tegallalang Road are lined with crafts shop making clever knick knacks to crafts shop making clever knick knacks to tempt buyers. tempt buyers.

Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas to to view and temples and wonderous sights view and temples and wonderous sights to to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to keep keep a visitor busy for days. Enjoy! a visitor busy for days. Enjoy!

...

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ubud palace-open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini arma-open stage ubud water palace-open stage bentuyung village batu karu temple-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm

legong dances barong & keris dance kecak ramayana & fire dance women performance

ubud palace-open stage wantilan padang tegal kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

ramayana ballet kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong telek trance culture

ubud palace-open stage jaba pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod kertha accommodation-monkey forest st arma-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

wed

legong & barong dance mask dance [topeng jimat] wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance kecak fire & trance dance jegog [bamboo gamelan]

ubud palace-open stage arma-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini yamasari stage-peliatan open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage pura dalem ubud-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.00 pm

thu

kecak [monkey chant dance] legong dance the barong & keris dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet]

puri agung peliatan jaba pura desa kutuh pura dalem ubud-open stage pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod bale banjar ubud kelod pondok bambu-monkey forest st

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

fri

barong dance legong dance kecak and fire dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] jegog [bamboo gamelan] barong & keris dance

ubud palace-open stage balerung stage peliatan pura padang kertha-padang tegal kelod ubud main road-oka kartini bentuyung village arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.00 pm 6.00 pm

legong dance legong dance frog dance legong dance kecak fire & trance dance the magic of jegog

ubud palace-open stage ubud water palace bale banjar ubud kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage pura dalem taman kaja-open stage arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm

every 1st and 15th: gambuh dance

pura desa batuan-open stage

7.00 pm

tue mon sun

legong of mahabrata kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance janger dance jegog [bamboo gamelan] kecak fire & trance dance

sat

ubud cultural dance performances

52 UbudLife

TIPS

pura protocol Tips for how to visit one of Bali’s fabulous temples

A

s visitors to Bali we like to know how to visit a temple graciously. Here are a few guidelines to help make a visit more enjoyable. Enjoy!

The Balinese are quite open and generally welcome visitors. You can enter most temples freely. Wear a sash around the waist and preferably a sarong. Big temples can hire a sarong at the front gate but it is nice to have your own. You can buy a sash and sarong at Ubud market or Sukawati where the choice is limitless.

When there is a ceremony on, the Balinese believe the gods have descended to the temple for the duration. All prayer and dance is performed for the benefit of the gods rather than the tourists. Be respectful. Women who are menstruating must wait outside.

Priests (Pedanda) are well respected and the most important person at the ceremony.

They occupy the highest position. Show respect and don’t try to climb on scaffolding or steps higher than the officiating priest to get a better view or photo.

If you visit a holy spring like Pura Tirtha Empul and decide to try bathing, keep your clothes on and leave the shampoo behind.

It is not a bath, but an immersion in holy water, for a spiritual cleansing.

Expect to pay a small donation before entering a temple. These donations are put to good use, and help with the upkeep of the grounds and the temple itself.

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LEGEND:

Provincial capital

Town

Places of interest

Village

Mountain

MENJANGAN ISLAND

BAL

Pemuteran Reef Building

Ja v a Fer r y to Cekik

Labuhan lalang

Sumberkelampok

Blimbingsari

Klatakan

Gerokgak

Pe

a B e a ch

Antur

Lovina

Bestala Mayong Busungbiu

Pancoran

Mt. Mesehe 1344

BA

Pangkungdedari Melaya

vin

Kalibukbuk Labuhan Haji Kaliasem Pengastulan Temukus Kalisada Seririt Dencarik Tigawasa Bubunan Banjar Sidetapa Tegallenga Ringdikit Cempaga Asah Goble

Mt. Musi 1224

Mt. Merbuk 1386

Sumbersari

Temple

A

Puri Jati [muck-diving]

Celukan Bawang

Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Bali National Park)

E I S

Lo

Sumberkima Goris Banyuwedang

Secret Bay

Gilimanuk

LETKOL WISNU AIRSTRIP Pulaki Banyupoh Kertakawat Pemuteran Gondol Melanting Penyabangan Musi

Lake

Gobleg

Tambling Mund

Subuk

LI

Candikusuma

Pupuan Pujungan Mt

Tegalasih

ST R

Airanakan

A

Banyubiru

IT

NEGARA

Cupel Munduk

Sanda

Rambutsiwi Yehsumbul Yehembang Pesinggahan Mede wi B eac Medewi h

Yehkuning

Perancak

Bat

Manggissari Asahduren

Mendoyo Yehbuah Delod Berawah

Munduk

Batungsel

Tista

Batuagung

DISTANCE [in kilometer]

Belimbing

Ampadan

BANGLI BESAKIH

Balia

CANDI DASA

Balian Beach

DENPASAR GIANYAR

Suraberata Selemad Antosari n B Lalanglinggah Bajera Ba ea ch Soka Soka Bea ch Kerambi Beraban

GILIMANUK

IN

GOA GAJAH GOA LAWAH

O

N

Tanah

E

GUNUNG KAWI

D

Tib

S

IA

AMLAPURA

C

N

OC

SEMARAPURA KUTA

C

EA

LAKE BATUR

N

LEGIAN LOVINA AIRPORT

INT

NUSA DUA SANUR SINGARAJA TANAH LOT UBUD ULUWATU

Padang Sulub

Uluw

Airport/Airstrip

Air Sanih

Sangsit Kubutambahan Beji

Bungkulan

emaron

ran Panji

Bukti

Jagaraga Bila

SINGARAJA Banyuning

Tamblang

Sukasada

Pacung

Julah Bondalem Tejakula Les

Tegal

Pegayaman Gitgit

Asahpanji

Catur

Mt. Catur 2096 Kembangmerta

Tembok Muntidesa

Bayun

Yehketipat

Bantang Penulisan

Kintamani

Lake Bratan

Bedugul Pekarangan Baturiti

tukaru

Apuan

Wongaya

T ul a

Sekardadi

Tulamben

Pengotan Penyebah

Sandakan

Seribatu

Taro

Besakih

Kayubihi

Amed

Jemeluk Wall Bunutan Reef Japanese Wreck

Jemeluk Bunutan

Pempatan Buyan

Puhu

Buahan Petang Pujung Luwus

Culik

Mt. Agung 3142

Kayuambua

Angantiga

m

Mt. Abang 2153

Penulisan Nungkung

t. Batukaru Pacung 2276 l Soka Jatiluwih Senganan

Kedisan

Penelokan

Pelaga

Lake Batur

y n Ba

Candi Kuning

Baturinggit Kubu Rubaya

Trunyan

be

gan duk

Tianyar

Mt. Batur Batur 1717

Pancasari

Lake Buyan Lake Tamblingan

Penuktukan

Sambirenteng

Gentah

Bakungan Penginyahan

k

eg

BALI MAP

Surfing spots

Diving spots

Harbour

Ababi

Abang

Gili Selang Lempuyang

Tirta Gangga Mt. Seraya Menanga 1175 Muncan AMLAPURA Seraya Selat Payangan Bebandem Tampaksiring Rendang Iseh Bangbang Bukit Bucu BANGLI Subagan Kuwum Ceking Sibetan Tembuku Sindu Buruan Ujung Saren Padpadan Kawan Sidakarya Marga Sembung Bunutan Tegallalang Paseban Asak Jasri Ngis Tenganan Jasri Batusari Timbrah Petak Manggis Sidemen Bugbug Petulu Timpag Wanasari Sangeh Buitan deg Sibang Bongkasa Ulakan Candidasa Talibeng Selat Sengkidu Biaha UBUD Blahkiuh antas Alas Kedaton Mimpang Akah Blayu Peliatan h Bedulu Padangbai A m u k B a n d i Tepekong c KLUNGKUNG ) a d as a Be ay bok Denkayu Abiansemal Silayukti Sidan Tihingan Samsam TABANAN Kutri Dawan ( Lom Ferry Channel lands Mas Is i GIANYAR il itan Mambal G Kamasan Goa Lawah Blue Lagoon Fast Boats Padangbai (Bali ) Kengetan Mengwi Gelgel Bone Tanjung Sari Sakah Gubug IT Silakarang Kusamba bubiyu Blahbatuh Tanjung Jepun Kediri Sibang RA Angantaka T Kemenuh S Lebih Muncan Pejaten Batuan OK Darmasaba Sukawati Keramas Yeh Gangga Pandakgede Singapadu MB O L Fe Beraban Sempidi rry Batubulan Celuk Pa h Lot da ng ba Ubung Lumintang T i (B Tohpati I ali ) A Kerobokan DENPASAR Canggu - Le R B e Brawa Canggu Padanggalak mb h T Sumerta a ar ( Muding Shipwreck SD S Sental Lom Umalas Pengubengan Canggu Renon Sanur bok Blue Corner Buyuk ) Jungutbatu Batubelig Sanur Kutampi Sindhu Ped LEMBONGAN ISLAND Legi Petitenget Telaga Sanglah an Sampalan Lembongan Toyapakeh B e Seminyak Batujimbar Pegok Kut ac Sentalkangin Legian Gelogorcarik Semawang CENINGAN ISLAND aB Pidada Gelagah e Crystal Bay Kuta Pesanggaran Blanjong Metakih Ponjok Kuta Bayuh Suana Malibu SERANGAN ISLAND Tuban Manta Point Semaya Serangan NGURAH RAI Batumandeg Pejukutan BENOA HARBOUR TERNATIONAL AIRPORT Ambengan Tanjung Benoa Kedonganan Batukandik Pendem Jimbaran Bay Tanglad Soyor Jimbaran Bungkit Bingin Anta Pelilit Manta Point Tabuanan Mumbul Ramoan g Padang Sedihing Bualu Geger Sekartaji Kampial ban Nusa Dua Ungasan Batuabah Sawangan watu N Pecatu Babahan

Sebatu

Penebel Perean Pitra

Sulahan Singarata

C

h ac

N

DU

BA

San

ur

G

Be

ac

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h

NUSA PENIDA

us

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0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

45

50 km

ANCIENT TRADE CENTRES AND SACRED DANCE DRAMAS ON BALI’SNORTHEAST COAST by rachel love

T

he small village of Bondalem, nestled into the largest continuous coconut grove on Bali’s quiet northeast coast, is home mainly to fishermen and their families, living a traditional lifestyle. Here, on this black, rocky coastline, you can enjoy safe swimming and snorkelling, practice yoga and get close to nature. At the village of Les, you can take a short trek to the spectacular Yeh Mempeh waterfall. The name means ‘flying water’ in Balinese, and at 30 metres high, this is one of the tallest falls on the island. It is reached by a one-kilometre walk through plantations of papaya, pineapple and jackfruit, at the end of which you can stand in the flow of the waterfall and enjoy the sensation of a natural massage.

56 UbudLife

OUT OF TOWN

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Bondalem and the neighbouring village of Tejakula are rich with rural cultural events and full moon temple festivities including dances, such as the Wayang Wong, which is a sacred masked dance-drama taken from the Hindu epic, the Ramayana. ‘Wayang’ means shadow puppet, and ‘Wong’ means people, so unlike the wayang kulit, in which leather puppets are manipulated behind a screen, wayang wong is performed by actors on a stage. The dancer must imitate the character represented by the mask, and there is a permanent alternation between the sacred and the profane, beauty and ugliness, refinement and caricature.

Tejakula’s troupe of Wayang Wong dancers and gamelan players cherish a collection of 72 sacred masks, most of which date back to the 18th century, and remain in pristine condition.

The masks are believed to be a medium for communication with the ancestors and can only be shown in public on certain days, or at 58 UbudLife

religious rituals. Therefore, in 1975, the troupe decided to establish a secular wayang wong for public performances outside the temple.

In these secular performances, duplicates are substituted for the sacred masks.

Bondalem once functioned as an ancient trading port and a prominent crossroads located on a major spice trade route. It would have far outstripped the present-day seaport of Benoa in importance, influence and fame.

Bali’s southwest coast is more difficult for approach by large trading vessels and it is logical to assume that early trading activity was focused on sheltered ports of the north coast, particularly if rice was locally grown and available there for trade at that time. The sea off the northeastern coast of Bali, particularly off Bondalem, is very deep. The edge of the Sunda shelf has here been scoured deeply by currents, while the shoreline forms a slight bay. The sea surface along this coast is very

calm and rarely affected by surf, so boats and ships could probably anchor safely very close to the beach in calm weather. The coastline here has probably maintained a similar position to that of today for at least the past 2000 years.

The discoveries by archaeologists, divers and marine archaeologists, of multiple fragments of Indian pots, ceramic and earthenware sherds, and hundreds of glass beads, together with two of carnelian crystal stone and one of gold, suggest that contacts between India and Bali were already occurring as early as 2000 years ago. A single rim sherd with black slip and an impressed decoration of a bird motif, possibly a peacock, was found in the nearby village of Sembiran. The same type of pottery has also been excavated in other sites in West Bengal and Tamil Nadu, but so far, no

pottery of this type has been found in any other sites in Southeast Asia. The discoveries of Chinese and Vietnamese ceramics during the Balinese excavations extend this time span to most likely the 15th century.

The Indian traders would have stopped at the villages of northeastern Bali while trading spices, and aromatic woods from the eastern part of the Indonesian archipelago.

The increasing demand for nutmeg, cloves and sandalwood during the Roman period encouraged Indian traders to search for these treasured commodities. The clove tree is native only to the islands of Ternate, Tidore, Motir, Bacan and Makian in the Moluccas, nutmeg is native only to the Banda Islands in the Moluccas, and the best sandalwood occurs in Sumba and Timor.

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In turn, Bali’s north coast villages would control these rare resources and act as centres for manufacturing. Situated slightly inland, the village of Sembiran was almost certainly a manufacturing site, suggested by the discovery of a fragment of a stone stamp or printing mould, probably used for impressing decoration into wax during the production of a Balinese Pejeng-type bronze drum. In fact, inscriptional data from the 10th, 11th and 12th centuries indicates that this area had developed as “a gateway community” into northeastern Bali. There was a market in the nearby village of Julah, and also a guild or community of foreign traders. Even today the villagers of Bondalem, Les, Julah and Sembiran travel to Kintamani to buy or sell their goods at the market. It seems that several land routes connected the northeastern coast and central Bali, and Kintamani would have been a meeting place for people from both regions. It is known that copper and tin are not available naturally in Bali. Therefore, these raw materials

60 UbudLife

the west. Early bronze metallurgy in Bali might have also been inspired and influenced by the Dongson tradition of Vietnam, especially in terms of the use of the lost wax technique and the drum tradition.

It is not clear why Bondalem, Sembiran and Julah eventually ceased to be used as trading centres. Volcanic eruption and security are possible reasons for abandonment, since early inscriptions indicate that the villagers of Julah were on at least one occasion plundered, captured and killed by their enemies.

Nowadays, Bali’s northeast coast is a place to connect with the history, culture, nature and spirituality of the island. Escape from the hot and crowded southern plains, and you will discover a different world on the far side of Bali’s central mountain range – a peaceful place, where the heat of the day is cooled by fresh sea breezes.

RESTAURANTS

SereS Resort & Resort Jl. Jukut Paku, Singekerta, Ubud Phone: 0361 3012222 www.sereshotelsresorts.com

Bridges Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Biah Biah Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: 0361 978249 Biah-Biah+ Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976466 Buddha Bowl Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Hand phone: 081 339 339928 Cafe Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9x, Ubud Phone: 0361 972706 www.cafedesartistesbali.com Copper Kitchen & Bar Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792888 www.copperubud.com CP LOUNGE Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com DIVINE Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Liap Liap Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080888 www.liapliap.com Folk Pool Gardens Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080888 www.folkubud.com Gedong Sisi Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 977276 www.gedongsisi.com Ibu Rai Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, Ubud Phone: 0361 973472 www.iburai.com Haii Made Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 973302 www.dewanggaubudbali.com

Villa Beji Indah Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 0361 974168 www.villabejiindah.com

Kebun Jl. Raya Hanoman 44B, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803801 www.kebunbistro.com

ACCOMMODATION Arma Resort Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976659 www.armaresort.com B.Saya Villa and Restaurant Jl. Suweta, Ubud Phone: 0361 973496 www.bsaya.com Cendana Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973243 www.cendanaresort-spa.com Korurua Jl. Tirta Tawar, Junjungan, Ubud Phone: 0361 9000496 www.koruruaubud.com Om Ham Retreat Jl. Tirta Tawar, Junjungan, Ubud Phone: 0361 9000352 www.omhamretreat.com Puri Gangga Resort Desa Sebatu, Tegallalang, Ubud Phone: 0361 902222 www.puriganggaresort.com Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng, Ubud Phone: 0361 974393 www.ubudsari.com Sri Ratih Cottages & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com SenS Hotel & Resort Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493328 www.senshotelsresorts.com

KAFE Jl. Raya Hanoman 48B, Ubud Phone: 0361 970992 ww.kafe-bali.com Monkey Legend Jl. Monkey Forest 8, Ubud Phone: 0361 981611 www.monkeylegendubud.com Nomas Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080800 www.nomasubud.com Pizza Bagus Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978520 Sri Ratih Cafe & Jewelry Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Sayuri Healing Food Jl. Sukma 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080385 www.sayurihealingfood.com Taksu Fresh Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792525 www.taksuyoga.com VELVET Jl. Raya Lungsiakan, Ubud Phone: +62 813 98625483 www.velvetbali.com Warung Citta Ovest Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971352 Warung Siam Jl. Goutama, Ubud Hand phone: 081 239 655905 Why Not Restaurant & Bar Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 0361 9081601 Yonne Cafe & Bar SenS Hotel & Resort Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493328 www.senshotelsresorts.com

NIGHT LIFE CP Lounge Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com UbudLife 61

SPAS/THERAPY

SHOPS

PROPERTY Red Lotus Property Jl. Sukma, Br. Tebesaya, Ubud Phone: 0361 970980 www.redlotusbaliproperty.com

Bodyworks Centre Jl. Raya Hanoman no. 25, Ubud Phone: 0361 975720 www.ubudbodyworks.com

Bambooku Jl. Hanoman 32, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803119 www.bambooku.com

Bali Botanical Day Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976739 www.balibotanica.com

Kunci Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 971050 www.kuncicottonknit.com

Cocoon Medical Spa Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest 8, Ubud Hand phone: 0811 3882241 www.cocoonmedicalspa.com

Nirmala - Work On T’shirt Jl. Hanoman 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 7475404

Taksu Galleria Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792508 www.taksuspa.com

FRESH Spa Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493677

Rainbow Spirit Jl. Hanoman 38, Ubud Hand phone: 085 100 126053 www.rainbowspiritbali.com

Pilar Batu Gallery Jl. Made Lebah, Ubud Phone: 0361 978197 www.pilarbatu.com

Kayma Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792239, 0851 00620017 www.kaymaspa.com

Sensatia Botanicals Jl. Monkey Forest 64, Ubud Phone: 0361 3400011 www.sensatia.com

KUSH Ayurvedic Rejuvenation Spa Yoga Barn - Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971236 www.yogabarn.com/kush

Studio Perak Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 974244 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Hand phone: 081 236 51809 www.dketut37@yahoo.com

Milano Salon Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973488 Sri Ratih Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Sala Japan Beauty Care Jl. Jembawan 1, Padang Tegal, Ubud Phone: 0361 977803 www.absbysala.com Sedona Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975770 www.sedonaspa-ubud.com SKIN Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Goutama 24 & Jl. Sanggingan 36, Ubud Phone: 0361 975615 & 0361 975604 rsvp@ubudSkinOrganic.com Taksu Spa and Restaurant Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971490 www.taksuspa.com Ubud Floating Garden Jl. Raya Pejeng Kawan, Ubud Phone: 081 933 035318 www.ubudfloatinggarden.com

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GALLERIES

CERAMICS Setia Ceramics & Arts Jl. Raya Goutama 22, Padangtegal, Ubud Phone: 081 337 809006

SISI Jl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Hand phone: 085 103 235151 www.sisibag.com SISI Jl. Sriwedari No.12, Ubud Hand phone: 085 100765895 YIN Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 970718 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 8468510 Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Hand phone: 085 100801879 www.yinjewelryforthesoul.com

ARTISTS Wayan Suarmadi [Painter] Jl. Made Lebah, Ubud Mobile: 081 338 730435 Wayan Sila [Owl House] Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 977649 | Mobile: 081 8566861

YOGA CENTRE Bali Silent Retreat Banjar Mongan, Penatahan, Penebel, Tabanan, Bali www.balsilentretreat.org Ojas Prana Jl. Tirta Tawar, Banjar Junjungan, Ubud Phone: 0361 9083712 www.ojasprana.com Yoga Barn Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 0361 971236 www.theyogabarn.com

SPORT/RECREATION

USEFUL NUMBERS Ambulance

Mason Adventures Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 721480 www.masonadventures.com

Airport Authority

Ubud Horse Stables Phone: +6281 3395 85666 www.ubudhorsestables.com

VISA/LEGAL AFFAIRS HIGHWAY Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 972107 www.highwaybali.com

MUSEUMS ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum of Art ) Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 974228 Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 975502 Museum Puri Lukisan Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, Gianyar Phone: 975136 Neka Art Museum Jl. Raya Sanggingan Phone: 975074 Pendet Museum Jl. Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 971338 Rudana Museum Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 975779

Bali Police Department

227711

Directory Inquiries

108/112

Fire Brigade

113

Immigration

751038

International Red Cros

226465

Post Office Search and Rescue

Puri Sunny Hotel and Camping

118 751011

161 751111

Sanglah Public Hospital

227911

Tourist information Center

753540

Time Ubud Tourist Information

103 973286

NORTH BALI SECTION Amertha Bali Villas Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Phone: 0362 94831 www.baliamerthavillas.com Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Puri Sunny Hotel and Camping Munduk Village, Buleleng Phone/Whatsapp: +6285 7372 16669 www.purisunnyhotel.com The Hamsa Resort Munduk Village, Buleleng Phone: +62 813 3719 4975 Taman Sari Bali Resort and Spa Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Phone: 0362 93264, 94765 www.balitamansari.com

EAST BALI SECTION Ashyana Candidasa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41359 www.ashyanacandidasa.com

CONSULATES Australia

241118

Brazil

757775

Czech Republic

286465

Denmark & Norway

701070

French

285485

Germany

288535

Hungary

287701

Italy

701005

Japan

227628

Mexico

223266

Coral View Villas Jl.Raya Bunutan Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23493 www.coralviewvillas.com

Netherlands

761502

Spain/Portugal

769286

Sweden & Finland

288407

Le-Zat Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41538, 41539 www.balicateringservices.com

Switzerland

751735

Unitedkingdom

270601

USA

233605 UbudLife 63

LAST WORD

When is it time to walk away?

Mark Ulyseas

We dream of peace, perfect love and riches so that we may cease to strive. We bend our backs and brains fathoming ingenious ways to accumulate all these riches, often, by hook or by crook. And so it goes.

The rhythms of insanity couched in the insidiousness of lechery and greed. We desperately apply a quick coat of fresh paint every so often to appear new and inviting. Alas, all these actions project a jadedness that is unnatural. For beauty, the real beauty that we possess, is brushed aside in our indecent haste to acquire a youthfulness and vigour just for the moment – la petit morte - the little death. And then it is gone. That tingling feeling of ecstasy.

The primordial instinct is embedded in all of us like the mark of Cain. It seduces us to focus on the animal – the hair, the canine teeth, the nails, the sexual urge and the mindless violence.

We are much cleverer than the savages we project, for we possess the wisdom of our ancestors, the beauty of nature, and gentleness and fragility like the pollen laden wings of a butterfly.

The hurdy-gurdy of life keeps us entertained, chivvies up the innards and livens the thoughts centred on the vagaries of survival in a material world. But it is also a reminder that all good things must end on a note of acceptance. And, sadly, this acceptance we usually translate into despondency, a fatalism that cocoons us in a warped world of our own delusions.

Perhaps it is time we walk away from ourselves of blood and bone, rage, hate, violence and wants, to our souls to rediscover who we really are, and what we should be doing on this beautiful blue planet called earth.

But why should this be so?

The Now is omnipotent.

Why do we ignore the beauty within, the everlasting creature, the soul? A divine gift that we were born with, that if used can help us see reason and seek balance between materialism of need not want, and spiritualism sans faux worship with its attending theatricals.

And what better time to begin than Now… to walk away.

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

Mark Ulyseas Publisher/Editor, http://www.liveencounters.net Free online magazine from village earth.

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