dear foodies & friend s It is with happy hearts and loudly growling stomachs that we present to you the Fall 2023 issue of Bite Magazine! This quarter, we dove deeply into the array of Chicago restaurants we’ve been dying to try, from the moist and flavorful meats from Trivoli Tavern from the Hogsalt Group, to the chicken sandwiches from 3LP better than any Chick-fil-A, to the reubens and gravlax from Scheider’s Deli that we see in our dreams. We took to the streets surrounding our beautiful campus surrounding Hyde Park to discover the hidden gems of Carver 47 and Strugglebeard Bakery — great places to study while munching on a sweet treat. Stomach still not satisfied? We settled the debate on Filipino breakfast with an exploration of Cebu, Uncle Mike’s, and Kasama in Wicker Park for you. This quarter, we became extremely interested in questioning and revisiting foods and beverages that have become part of our daily routine, part of our daily rituals. We explored the behind-the-scenes of the chocolate industry (20), took a look back on the origins of the pumpkin spice latte (14), and questioned the definitions of popular foods like hot dogs and cereals (16). We even took Bite international, also reflecting on a lavish thirteen course meal from a Finnish restaurant one of us was able to experience this past summer (18). We also worked hard to make some delicious dinners that fit the autumn mood. If you’re looking for a dish that will make your apartment smell of apples for ages, try our intricate, scrumptious apple tarte (24). Don’t want to trek to Nobu for miso cod? You can make a variation right at home with our yuzu miso salmon (26). To finish off any meal with something sweet, or even a wonderful mid-day snack, try our brown butter carrot cake, sworn to convert even the carrot cake haters (23). As fall comes to a close and we start bringing out the parkas and hand warmers, we are excited to continue exploring all that Chicago has to offer. If you’re looking to bunker in and avoid the blistering wind, we have the hearty recipes for you. No matter what you decide is in your foodie future, don’t forget to scroll through our Instagram (@uchicagobite) and tag us with all your epicurean adventures!
the editors
2 bite | fall 2023
table of contents 5 Carver 47 6 strugglebeard bakery 7 3 Little pigs 8 trivoli tavern 10 schneider deli 12 Filipino Food forage 14 the pumpkin spice latte turns 20 16 between buns and bowls 18 ravintola grÖn 20 a chocolate economy 22 brown butter carrot cake 24 apple tarte 26 yuzu miso salmon CO-EDITOR-IN-CHIEF CAYLA VOLANDES CO-EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KALLIE HOFFMAN MANAGING DIRECTOR ZOE KIM CREATIVE DIRECTOR ALLY GAMMILL PROGRAMMING DIRECTOR STACIA KONOW DIRECTOR OF FINANCE IAN B. HENDERSON BLOG EDITOR OLIVIA SHANLER DESIGNERS ABBEY PIATT PRICE, ALLY GAMMILL, AMELIE MARTIN, ANA ESTUPINAN, AUDREY KAYE, EMILY SON, Emma tung, JULIE KANG WRITERS Abby Yuhan, Aidan Cessor, Blair Penn, Cayla Volandes, Charlotte Engrav, Connor Bloch, Kai Schirmacher, Kaia Griggs, Markis Cheng, Olivia Shanler, Oscar Cheng, Riley Yates, Stacia Konow PHOTOGRAPHERS Aarthi K, Aditi Menon, Ali Aragon Chris Low, Daniela Chafloque, Emily Kim, Karina Mak, Phoebe Fingold, Toby Chan COVER PHOTO KARINA MAK Special Thanks to Taste of hyde park and katrina monea for photo contributions!
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4 bite | fall 2023
Photos top to bottom: Karina Mak, Katrina Monea, Aditi Menon
INSIDE THE ISSUE
Tucked away in Bronzeville and just a 25-minute walk from the heart of UChicago campus lies Carver47, a cafe dedicated to celebrating Dr. George Washington Carver. Who is Dr. Carver you may ask? A famed African American agricultural scientist who promoted the use of alternative crops to cotton and methods to prevent soil depletion. Carver 47 serves southern influenced breakfast food such as catfish and grits, smoothies, and a variety of pastries. Carver 47 lies within the same complex as the SouthSide cultural arts and education center called Little Black Pearl, which boasts a stateof-the-art facility and often hosts events such as open mic nights and glassblowing workshops: this gives flavor and culture to the cafe. I had been to Carver47 once my freshman year on a ‘self-care day’ where my goal was to not venture too far away from campus but find a new cafe for studying. Willing to reveal my best kept secret for Bite only, I decided to return and write about Carver 47 because I loved the food and ambiance of the cafe so much. Time to promote my selfcafe day spot to give them a little business boost. While Carver47 is my oasis, there is room for improvement in their exterior design; the clean, black tile exterior leaves a bit of a cool, standoffish vibe from the outside. It’s difficult to peer inside due to the dark windows, which gives the cafe the impression of being closed. However, upon entering, we were met with a small mini-mart filled with nut butters, and jars of “gingerbread maple syrup” that allowed our hesitations to disappear. Fitted with mahogany wood tables and big green leafy plants lining the window sill, the cafe creates a warm ambiance and friendly service. I felt at home among the pastries and the cafe market offering merchandise and cookbooks. The cafe offers free wifi with pleasant, quiet surroundings making it the ideal place to study. The cons? Seating is limited and the cafe is oriented around breakfast, so it closes at 4pm. The cafe offers a wide range of coffee and pastries, but they are best known for their smoothies,
breakfast food, and juices. The menu is designed by chef and professional vocalist Lizz Wright, and some of the ingredients used are from the cafe’s onsite garden: the quality of ingredients are superb. We started with the moon mansala smoothie, a mixture of yogurt, a masala spice blend, pineapple, coconut milk, and cashews. The moon mansala smoothie was extremely creamy and smooth, but bland in flavor profile. I was, honestly, bored after a few sips. Additionally, we tried the Carver Breakfast, the wisdom smoothie, and the Breakfast bowl. The Wisdom smoothie, featuring sweet potato, almond butter, dates, yogurt, and a blend of spices — despite the odd combination of ingredients — all came together. Sweet potatoes, especially in cold desserts, complements almond butter nicely. The ingredients meshed together well to create something extremely thick, sweet, and warmly flavored. This smoothie, spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg, is the perfect fall treat. The Carver Breakfast came with 2 eggs, creamy grits, panini toast, choice of protein (sausage or bacon or turkey bacon), and a bowl of fruit. The price was reasonable for the amount of food, $16 for a hefty plate, and each component of the plate added something unique: either a crunch, a salty addition, or something sweet to balance the palate. The grits were the highlight: they were flavorful, thick, and creamy, but not too heavy or buttery. The ‘panini toast’ reminded me of a healthy version of Texas toast: instead of thick white bread soaked in butter, I received thin pieces of toasted sourdough bread with a drizzle of olive oil. To make matters more interesting, the plate came with a chili jam to give a little kick to the bread. The rest of the plate came together seamlessly, ripe fruit complementing the crispy bacon and fluffy scrambled eggs. Carver47 is a unique cafe, with an interesting history, a specially curated menu, and is only a 20-minute walk from campus. Students who are looking to change up their normal study spots and want to support small businesses should definitely check out Carver47; it’s worth the trip!
REVIEW
CARVER47 BY BLAIR PENN PHOTOS BY ALI ARAGON >> NEIGHBORHOOD BRONZEVILLE >> PRICES $$
>> DISHES TO TRY
CARVER BREAKFAST WISDOM SMOOTHIE
reviews 5
REVIEW
STRUGGLEBEARD BAKERY BY STACIA KONOW PHOTOS BY KATRINA MONEA
>> NEIGHBORHOOD HYDE PARK
>> PRICES $$
>> DISHES TO TRY REDDER FOX RED VELVET COOKIES THE STRUGGLE PACK CHOCOLATE CUPCAKE
On October 7, 2023, Strugglebeard Bakery opened its doors for the first time at UChicago’s Taste of Hyde Park event. They served a limited menu of chocolate, lemon, and red velvet cupcakes, along with their StrugglePack of mini cookies to eager and hungry students. Flash forward, they are now open with a full menu to the public and operate out of their shop in Harper Court, serving the Hyde Park community and surrounding area with fresh-baked, made-to-order cookies. Strugglebeard gets its name from a running joke about owner and head baker Quinton McNair’s beard, and the fun and bright energy does not stop at the name. McNair works at the shop himself and loves to connect with his customers. The staff members are kind and ready to help everyone who comes through their doors find the best baked goods for their events–whether that be a custom cake, a cookie catering platter, or just a fresh cookie for one. Though seating is limited, all items are available for takeout as well as dine-in. When asked about the mission of his bakery, McNair told Bite that “[Strugglebeard] is a Black and disabled veteran-owned bakery committed to serve the community and providing the best baked goods in Hyde Park.” 6 bite | fall 2023
He encouraged students to come “hangout here, have meetings, and work on our free wifi.” Manager De’Azia Baldwin echoed his statement and encouraged everyone to check their website to see what is available each day and to send cookies to their families; Strugglebeard ships their cookies nationwide. As for the quality of their baking, they let their creations speak for themselves. The variety of cookies is impressive. There were at least 12 flavors to choose from like limoncello, The Professor chocolate chunk, and Chief Bartley Salted Caramel Oatmeal. Varieties included gluten-free, nut-free, and dairy-free options. The cookies skew towards the cakey side, where the inside is fluffy but not too chewy. Most types have a fantastic texture and are not dry, however the gluten-free and dairy-free cookies become a bit crumbly. The star of the show, however, was the Redder Fox Red Velvet Cookies. The stunning, ruby red color of the dough contrasts with the ivory of the white chocolate chips. It had a chocolatey body that was balanced nicely by the white chocolate, just as a red velvet cake paired with cream cheese frosting. You can try the Redder Fox in The Struggle Pack–a combination of three types of cookies. This option offers the opportunity to try a wider range of their selection, and they make for convenient goodie bags at parties or luncheons. The cupcakes were also moist and fluffy, but the most distinct element was their flavor. The frosting had the texture of whipped buttercream but half the sweetness, complementing rather than overpowering the flavors in the cake. The chocolate cupcake tasted of fresh chocolate; the slightly bitter notes of cocoa shone through beautifully and gave the cake a lightness that chocolate cupcakes often lack. The lemon cupcake was just as delicately flavored. The cake tasted more of lemon zest than lemon juice which added complexity to the flavor. Strugglebeard also offers vanilla and red velvet varieties of their cupcakes. Strugglebeard is absolutely on its way to becoming a Hyde Park staple. The atmosphere of the bakery and the cookies are unparalleled in the neighborhood. The prices are a bit high, but the quality of the ingredients and craftsmanship is evident in every bite, making Strugglebeard worth every penny.
3 LITTLE PIGS
REVIEW
BY OSCAR CHEN PHOTOS BY DANIELA CHAFLOQUE
>> NEIGHBORHOOD SOUTH LOOP
>> PRICES $$
>> DISHES TO TRY
SALT AND PEPPER FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH BBQ PORK CHAR SIU FRIED CHICKEN FRIED RICE CANNELLONI
This Autumn, 3 Little Pigs Chi (3LP), an “untraditionally authentic” Chinese restaurant, moved into its new brick and mortar location in the South Loop neighborhood, a welcome upgrade from its beginnings as a popular Covid era ghost kitchen operation. Now sharing a space with Molly’s Cupcakes, the restaurant’s presence is still somewhat hidden. A visit leads to Molly’s Cupcakes with its large storefront letters adorning the facade, and the only indication of 3LP’s existence is its iconic red logo with three cartoon pigs on the front door. The interior is decorated with vintage lunch boxes and a chalkboard with colorful drawings. Seating options are just as bright and peppy, with multicolored chairs, playground swing seats, and vibrant green booths. The environment is enjoyably retro and family friendly, but it does speak more about Molly’s Cupcakes than it does for 3LP. Though there is seating, there is no wait staff, and 3LP’s casual dine-in experience resembles that of a food court. The menu, accessible via a QR code, features a selection of chicken sandwiches, BBQ pork, fried rice, and appetizers. What best captures the essence of 3LP’s Chinese take on American cuisine? Its chicken sandwiches, with the standout being the salt and pepper fried chicken sandwich. When I took my first few bites, I had a delightful encounter with the tender chicken’s well-seasoned, light, crispy exterior — a nod to traditional Chinese frying techniques. Then comes the aromatic, toasted brioche buns, which add a delicate richness complementing the creamy, spicy mayo. This sandwich strikes
a balance between crispiness, richness, and spiciness, ensuring no single component overpowers the others. Even the accompanying crunchy crinklecut fries, which are served with the same in-house seasoning as the fried chicken, are a departure from commonplace french fries served in western cuisine. In this dish, 3LP establishes its unique identity as a reverse Panda Express, conforming American dishes with Chinese cooking styles, aromas, and daring flavors. However, it’s worth noting that the seasoning can sometimes be uneven in both chicken and fries, leading to the occasional oversaltiness. For a taste of more traditional Chinese cuisine and flavor, 3LP’s fried rice offerings are timeless classics. Their fried chicken fried rice, in particular, is a fragrant blend of Chinese spices, scallions, egg, and succulent chicken in every other bite. BBQ enthusiasts will enjoy 3LP’s outstanding char siu, a sweet and savory Cantonese-style BBQ pork coated in their signature BBQ sauce. However, while 3LP has achieved remarkable success with its chicken, fried rice, and BBQ menu items, its vegetable dishes leave something to be desired. For example, the pork and chicken combo includes steamed broccoli and bell peppers, which are seasonless and uninteresting. In paying homage to authentic Chinese cuisine, 3LP has successfully blended Chinese flavors with American staples, resulting in a uniquely refined culinary style. While 3LP is still very much a takeout focused experience with a limited menu, I’m excited to see how they will continue to expand and push the boundaries of Chinese-American cuisine. reviews 7
REVIEW
TRIVOLI TAVERN BY CAYLA VOLANDES PHOTOS BY CAYLA VOLANDES
Swaths of family members around me, singing to me as I blow out the candles of my ginormous chocolate cake — that’s what I picture when I think of my birthday. I grew up celebrating my birthday each year with 60-70 members of my big Greek family, where we would sit around, catch up, and most importantly, eat. Eating is nothing to be ashamed of in the Volandes family; food is the main event of the evening. Birthday dinners always consisted of large platters of chicken cutlets, meatballs, and vodka pasta cooked with love. Birthdays for me, then, are intrinsically tied to eating well while also spending time with some of my favorite people. This year for my 22nd birthday, far away from those family members sitting together stuffing their faces, I wanted to find a delicious restaurant that could somewhat recreate that experience. There was a restaurant that fit the bill, since it had been featured on Instagram reels quite frequently and popular culinary websites like Eater and TimeOut: Trivoli Tavern. The restaurant is part of Hogsalt Hospitality, a nationally acclaimed restaurant group owning Armitage Alehouse, 4 Charles Prime Rib, Au Cheval, Bavette’s and Ciccio Mio. Trivoli Tavern is located in the bustling Fulton Market District in West Loop, tucked away within a little cobblestone street also hosting the famous barbecue restaurant Green
8 bite | fall 2023
Street Smoked Meats (owned by Hogsalt as well). The tavern offers a classic American menu inside a swanky space. The red and white checkered tablecloths, dimly-lit extravagant chandeliers, and intricate wood panels and etchings throughout the restaurant generate the feeling of an old New York, one run by mobsters and mafiosos alike. Where’s the Robert De Niro character? Most likely tucked away within one of the maroon, leather booths that encircle the perimeter of the restaurant. After spending some time taking in the space and analyzing the menu, we ordered swiftly and were excited to start munching. At first, the waiter handed us the fried chicken sliders with mayonnaise and pickles – while we were given the opportunity to drown the little chicken breast in a hot sauce, we opted for the more classic feel. To my dismay, the small potato bun was not lightly toasted, but seemed like it had just emerged from a plastic bag from Costco. The fried chicken itself checked all the boxes of what a “good” chicken tender should be, but it was lacking the subtle spices needed to make the strip truly “pop” in my mouth. I wanted a punch that would transport me straight to taking a bite of one at Churchill Downs watching the horses race in an extravagant hat. The mayonnaise? Meager on the bun, but after a simple request to our kind waiter, plentiful.
As a foodie and an avid restaurant-goer, there is an unspoken rule — never get the salad from the steakhouse. The creamed spinach is a must (I often fantasize of a dollop of Peter Luger’s cream spinach), but with salad, you’ll most likely meet a bland assortment of leaves with dressing on top. Entranced by the restaurant’s ambiance, I neglected that maxim and ordered the house salad with salami, shaved parmesan, and olives, drenched in a red wine vinaigrette. The saltiness and mouthfeel of the salami and parmesan were exceptional, giving a burst of flavor to an otherwise ordinary salad. While I think the line cook had a heavy pour on the dressing, the freshness and high quality of the ingredients were able to resuscitate the dish to a stable condition. Pro tip: befriend your waiter or the hostess. They know what’s popular, what’s flavorful, and probably what you should order; Tik Tok doesn’t hold all of the secrets. I chatted with the hostess on the way in, sharing my internal conflict between ordering the cheeseburger and the shaved prime rib sandwich, both highly rated. Her answer? The shaved prime rib sandwich, which is ultimately what I ordered. This dish was the home run of the evening — the short rib broke apart and melted in your mouth, with the perfect amount of cheese offsetting the juicy, moist meat. Dipping the toasted baguette into the extra sauce and juice offered on the side made the sandwich even better than I could’ve imagined. I am known for an Instagram explore page full of sandwiches, and this was one of the best I’ve ever had. After the prime rib sandwich, we dove headfirst into the truffle bucatini, which had been highly rated on the Beli app. Aside from Greek food, Italian food is one of my favorites, thus I am quite jaded when it comes to pasta: after being wowed by the likes of Monteverde and Misi in New York City, I’m a harsh critic. I thought it was impossible to mess up black truffle and pecorino. I was wrong. The pasta was served slightly cold, and the sauce was a bit bland and heavy on the cream. Overall, the presentation of each dish was not as thoughtful as I would have liked or imagined given the intense curation of the ambiance and dining experience. For dessert, we ordered the sticky date cake. With a sizable scoop of brown butter ice cream sitting on top of a moist cake filled with gooey toffee sauce, this dish was everything I dreamed of and more. The ice cream added a pleasant crunch, with little pieces of date crumble scattered across the cake and plate. Be ready to save room for dessert and activate your sweet tooth at Trivoli Tavern. My roommate Olivia had previously gone to Trivoli Tavern and emphasized: “whatever you do, get the meat.” At the end of the day, Olivia was right — go to Trivoli Tavern for the meat. The red meat dishes will blow you away, but some of the other options? Not so much. Ask your waiter or waitress what other sides and appetizers to get. Perhaps I should’ve gotten the cheeseburger and the spinach and artichoke dip, but I’ll save that for another downtown adventure.
>> NEIGHBORHOOD
>> DISHES TO TRY
LOGAN SQUARE
SHAVED PRIME RIB SANDWICH STICKY DATE CAKE
>> PRICES $$
reviews 9
REVIEW
SCHNEIDER DELI BY AIDEN CESSOR PHOTOS BY CHRIS LOW ILLUSTRATED BY AUDREY KAYE
When I first saw Schnieder Deli, I was dumbfounded. While researching the restaurant, studying the menu, and making a game plan on what to order, it never occurred to me to Google street-view the place. Imagine your typical roadside motel plopped in the middle of Chicago. Schnieder Deli is in an offshoot building of The Ohio House Motel, located right on the corner of Ohio and LaSalle streets in the heart of downtown Chicago. It’s fairly nicer than your average motel, with Halloween and holiday decorations lighting up every balcony, but still: imagine your typical roadside motel plopped in the middle of Chicago. Inside, the deli is a slightly cramped but homey restaurant. It mainly focuses on takeout, but individuals can dine at a few tables or bar stools. The combined order counter took up a large portion of the restaurant. Thus, only an L-shaped array of high-top tables was allotted to those who wanted to stay in. Toward the back of the restaurant was a stairway with a steep decline. For such a small building, it’s a lot bigger on the inside, using every nook and cranny to fulfill a deli connoisseur’s desires. Immediately greeted by a friendly cashier, I ordered a whole smorgasbord of deli classics: a reuben with a latke in the middle, a side of egg salad, and an egg cream. My photographer, Chris, ordered a gravlax bagel plate and two latkes. Seated by the window, our orders came out piping hot. I could peer into the kitchen through the gap where orders constantly flow. Fitted in either stylish snapback or ‘50s-esque paper hats, the waitstaff navigated the tight corners and the bustling tables. The brunch crowd was starving for some cured meat goodness as the line swelled to go out the door. There is no doubt that this restaurant, which only opened in August 2023, is an efficient deli machine.
10 bite | fall 2023
NEIGHBORHOOD RIVER NORTH PRICES $$ DISHES TO TRY REUBEN LATKE EGG CREAM
When at a deli, the best measure of quality is the reuben sandwich. Served on hot and crispy rye bread, the reuben was sizable with pastrami, sauerkraut, and swiss. I also added a latke to it, which was the best choice I made for the meal. Perfectly smoked, the flaky pastrami melted in my mouth. The latke added a noticeable crunch to the reuben, contributing to the transcendent experience. The egg salad tasted creamy and freshly made, yet it desperately needed a helpful sprinkling of salt and pepper. The egg clung to my tongue and coated my palate. The denseness of it made the entire meal hearty. Straight down my gullet, I began to realize that I would need a nap after the meal. The first word that came to mind about the latkes was cake. With a crispy outside, the interior was dense yet maintained a fluffy consistency. However, I always prefer my latkes to be more crisp than fluff. With only the small sliver of gravlax off of my photographer’s plate, I concluded that it was worth the price. Smooth and light, the fish would lend itself to a great sandwich. Finally, the egg cream surprised me the most, which is a drink that has neither eggs nor cream—combining milk, seltzer water, and chocolate syrup; this is a light and delightful treat. The thought of water and milk being mixed seems crazy, but trust me: it’s worth it. Overall, Schneider Deli was quite a delight to spend the afternoon. I thought the reuben was superb quality and worth the visit, as it’s tough to find a good reuben in Chicago. The waiters made the most of the space with their kind and courteous attitude; however, you’re going here for hearty meals, not the table service or ambiance. The trek was arduous and not conducive to public transportation, but if you have a buddy with a car, then the deli offers a quick and filling meal. Perhaps make it a weekend trip. Book the weekend at the motel for cheap, enjoy the River North nightclub scene, and cure that hangover with various cured meats and an egg cream. Make it a meal to ease your soul.
reviews 11
FILIPINO FOOD FORAGE WRITTEN BY CHARLOTTE ENGRAV PHOTOS BY ADITI MENON ILLUSTRATIONS BY EMILY SON
Over the past five years, there has been a slow, yet undeniably steady rise in the popularity of Filipino food. Recipes for unassuming dishes I grew up eating for dinner at my Lola’s, or grandmother’s, house can now garner thousands, if not millions, of TikTok views. However, it is not just a matter of social media fame; in the spring of 2022, Chicago’s Kasama became the first Filipino restaurant in the world granted a Michelin star. In addition, the restaurant’s feature on Hulu’s The Bear assisted in further catapulting it and the concept of a ‘modernized’ Filipino breakfast into immense popularity. The hype is so big that I have grown skeptical – how true to tradition are these more contemporary and popular reinterpretations of my favorite dishes? I set off on a three-restaurant ‘breakfast crawl’ in Wicker Park to see what kinds of options there are and how they compare to each other. I chose to focus on one set of familiar flavors to have some sort of base for comparison, so I tried dishes that seemed to take inspiration from silog. Silog is a combination of sinangag (garlic rice) and itlog (egg), and it’s the quintessential Filipino breakfast, usually paired with some form of protein.
CEBU
We started our morning at Cebu, a quiet, sibling-owned spot nestled in the neighborhood of Wicker Park. On the Sunday morning we visited, there were just a few other parties dotted around. The tocino breakfast sandwich – sunny-side-up eggs and tocino (bright-pink, sweetly marinated pork belly) layered on a pandesal bun made for an interesting bite. The runny egg yolk complimented the marinade well. However, the layers of sweetness from the bread and meat, combined with the lack of contrasting textures or freshness, made for only a few enjoyable bites before it came rather saccharine and soggy. The real star of the plate was the hefty portion of vinegar-soaked truffle fries that came on the side, which offered addictive seasoning and a bright contrast to the otherwise moderate sandwich.
12 bite | fall 2023
UNCLE MIKE’S PLACE We continued on to Uncle Mike’s Place, a Chicago institution serving breakfast since 1991 and Filipino breakfast since 2008 upon expansion of the menu. Getting on the waitlist is streamlined, accomplished simply by scanning a QR code before receiving an accurate estimate of your wait time. After the wait, we were seated at a communal table alongside two other parties, which served to intensify the homey feeling. Before we even ordered, we were given steaming hot bowls of lugaw, an Uncle Mike’s tradition of chicken-broth based rice porridge with chunks of lemon. It was the perfect serving size, the perfect temperature, and a perfectly comforting treat before the rest of the meal. The longsilog – silog with longganisa (sweet pork sausage) was excellent too, with balanced portions of egg, sausage links, and garlic rice. The one downside to the meal was that the temperatures of different components within the dish all varied. Unfortunately, we also came too late in the day to have our meal accompanied with a sweet treat of traditional champorado (chocolate rice porridge).
KASAMA
We finished our crawl with an online order of the coveted Kasama longganisa breakfast sandwich – longganisa, egg, hashbrown, and American cheese on a soft brioche bun. The line for this sandwich can run very long, with diners queuing up before the restaurant is even open in the morning. For that reason, we did not get to experience the full ambience of dining-in, but we found the back door way into taking a bite of that breakfast sandwich: ordering online and eating outside at the picnic tables. Even though we arrived a bit late for our pickup window, the sandwich was flavorful and in prime condition. The sausage patties were clearly made in-house and well seasoned, and the brioche was sweet and buttery — hitting that balance of luxurious flavor without feeling greasy or overindulgent. It also felt a few steps further away from that traditional silog flavor. The hashbrown and toasted bun offered some interesting textural contrast, but when paired with American cheese, the sandwich felt more like American food with longganisa on it. It’s not what I expected an intentionally ‘fusion’ dish with other nods to Filipino cuisine to be. One small note about the sandwich is that its egg comes ‘scrambled,’ or steamed, instead of sunny-side-up. While egg preparation is up to personal preference, my favorite element of silog is mixing everything together using a runny egg yolk, a flavor and texture combination lost in Kasama’s choice of egg.
THE (BRIEF) FINAL TAKEAWAYS I returned home stuffed, yet satisfied both in the quality of the food and the range of experiences with food important to my home life and culture. All three options were high quality – you will definitely not walk away from any experience feeling dissatisfied with your Sunday brunch plans. Overall, I would not return to Kasama until the hype dies down, and Cebu’s brunch still felt like it was finding its footing. If you want the real deal – the good stuff – Uncle Mike’s Place is still doing Filipino breakfast the best. features 13
14 bite | fall 2023
The Pumpkin Spice Latte Turns 20 When the summer temperatures start dropping and the leaves fade into their reds and yellows, I have three things on my mind—Red (Taylor’s Version), Gilmore Girls, and the Starbucks fall flavors. Every year brings new variations on the classics, like this year’s Iced Pumpkin Cream Chai or Iced Apple Crisp Oatmilk Shaken Espresso. Despite the new beverages, there’s one seasonal drink we can count on to be on the menu year after year: the Pumpkin Spice Latte. The autumn phenomenon is celebrating a substantial milestone this year: it’s turning 20! This season-long celebration serves as a fitting opportunity to look back on the origins of the pumpkin spice latte and trace its influence throughout the past twenty years in the food world and beyond. The Pumpkin Spice story starts not in fall, but in Spring 2003. After gathering customer input on desired flavors in a new beverage, they found a majority of responses mentioned chocolate or caramel flavors. However, in a staff brainstorm, the seeds of a pumpkin-inspired drink were planted. The Starbucks Espresso Beverage Team took this idea and ran with it as they gathered at headquarters to generate a new fall coffee drink. They sampled pumpkin pie and espresso in a conference room decked out with pumpkins and other fall decorations. After much trial, error, and deliberation, the Pumpkin Spice Latte recipe was finalized three months later. So what’s inside the PSL? Despite its almost-neon hue, the ingredients in the latte are not as artificial as you might think. It only takes three ingredients: espresso, pumpkin spice syrup (that’s been made with real pumpkin puree since 2015!), and steamed milk (plus whipped cream and pumpkin pie seasoning on top) to transform your everyday latte into the autumnal delight that is the
PSL. Baristas began crafting this beverage in 100 test stores in the fall of 2003, and it was a success that by the following fall, the Pumpkin Spice Latte was everywhere. Over the next ten years, the PSL made its way into the hearts of Starbucks lovers everywhere. It could not reach that level of celebrity on its own, though. Three years after the PSL first made its debut, social media came along and gave it the platform it needed to really take off as a staple of the fall season. People used Twitter and Facebook to show their latte love, turning the PSL into a social media sensation. By 2010, the idea of pumpkin spice had transcended beyond the Starbucks cafes and social media posts; it began taking on a life of its own. Rival coffee chains introduced their own pumpkin or otherwise fall-inspired beverages, then, the idea expanded yet again. Pumpkin spice ice cream, snacks, and even beer began to pop up in stores. By 2019, it was a $511 million industry. The secret to the Pumpkin Spice success is that it’s seasonal. People wait for more than half the year for PSLs and pumpkin-spice-flavored products to make their way back to menus and shelves. This means that once they return for the season, people jump at the chance to get their fill before they’re gone again. When we hear that the Pumpkin Spice Latte is back, that means it’s almost time for sweaters, cozy autumn days, pumpkin patch trips, and halloween parties. The PSL is symbolic of the autumn season and everything in it that we love. The perennial buzz around the PSL is a testament to how iconic it has become. With 20 autumns under its belt, it is safe to say the Pumpkin Spice Latte has many successful seasons ahead.
By Riley Yates Illustrated by Ana Estupinan
features 15
Between Buns and Bowls Written by Abby Yuhan Illustrated by Abbey Piatt Price
In my Uncommon Essay prompt for the University of Chicago application, I found the opportunity to address an unsolvable issue in the question, “A hot dog might be a sandwich, and cereal might be a soup, but is a ______ a ______?” What I really discussed in my essay is irrelevant (aliens, if you were truly wondering).
But now, I’m going to take another shot at it with a new take: dissecting the definitions of sandwiches and soups. To further understand public opinion on the topic of sandwiches and soups, I conducted a random, anonymous survey with 77 participants, aged 18 to 62, from various locations around the world.
I asked them the following set of questions: Is a hot dog a sandwich? Is a sandwich a taco? Is cereal a soup? 31.6% of respondents thought that a hot dog is a sandwich, 15.8% of respondents thought cereal is a soup, and 14.5% of respondents thought a hot dog is a taco.
Preparation Purityº
Ingredient Purity* Now, let’s dive a little deeper and consider the components that define a hot dog as a sandwich and cereal as a potential soup. Cereal might be viewed as a soup due to its immersion in a liquid, usually milk. While the typical perception of soup involves savory ingredients in a broth, the fundamental concept of a liquid with added components aligns with the cereal-in-milk combination. But realistically, there are probably not many people who correlate
cereal with soup, even though components-wise, they have a similar make-up. We, as humans, are able to easily differentiate a cereal from a soup because of flavor profiles and cooking process. The preparation process we associate with soup, which involves simmering and boiling, is distinct from the preparation process we associate with cereal, which does not necessitate any actual cooking. Still, technically speaking, we should not be able to differentiate the two that easily.
One survey response comments,
“Culture does to some degree dictate what is and isn’t included in these categories though. For instance, hwachae (Korean watermelon punch), is it a soup or maybe even a cereal because of its milky consistency?” * Containing typical soup ingredients (i.e. meat , vegetables) º Prepared via adding ingreidents to water and heating
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Structural* Gradient
Material∞ Material∞ Gradient A sandwich traditionally consists of ingredients enclosed between two pieces of bread, and a hot dog arguably fits this description. With its sausage placed in a slit bun, it aligns with the broad definition of a sandwich, which claims that it is a filling encased between bread-like components. When the hot dog was first created, it was often referred to as a frankfurter sandwich, but the hot dog branched off from the sandwich as its own entity through the insistence of hot dog lovers.
Ingredientº Gradient * The one bun, two bun debate º What ’s inside the sandwich ∞ Bun ingredients , in this case: corn vs. wheat
Today, some argue that the continuous bread of a hot dog — or the roll — is not the same thing as two separate pieces of bread in a sandwich, and therefore, is not considered a sandwich. There is also the debate of how to define hoagies. Hoagies have continuous rolls — split on one end — but with the fillings of what many would consider a sandwich. Further, there are people who believe that a hot dog is a taco because a taco has a continuous starch (tortilla) that wraps around its fillings, similar to a hot dog. The takeaways? It’s difficult to define a line between separate categories of food.
“Hot dog isn’t a taco because that’s cross cultural. Like how an apple turnover isn’t an empanada even though they are the same.”
“A hot dog is its own entity. Nobody says, ‘I want a sandwich/taco’ and gets a hot dog. They say ‘I want a hot dog’ and they get a hot dog.” This debate surrounding sandwiches and soups begs the question: why do we, as humans, possess an innate impulse to categorize and classify food items? As I discovered in my survey, people have very strong opinions and obsessions about the topic. This inherent human tendency to categorize may, at its core, represent a flawed ideology about food, especially when considering the intricate nuances of taste and food understanding. The increasing polarization of the topic may reflect a larger direction of humans and our need to divide and separate, whether it is politics or the great food debate. Why can’t a cereal be a soup? Why can’t a hot dog be a sandwich? And why do we feel the need to restrict and confine our foods to certain standards and definitions? features 17
FROM EARTH TO TABLE By Olivia Shanler Illustrated by Julie Kang
While the country of Finland may not be a popular culinary destination, every meal I enjoyed in the vibrant capital city of Helsinki highlighted the Nordic cultural values of equality, sustainability, honesty, and quality ingredients. One such stand-out meal was my dinner at Ravintola Grön. This restaurant somehow remains humble, celebrating good ingredients and good times, and holds while also possessing a coveted Michelin star. Grön offers a set menu (and a vegan/vegetarian version) based on the natural seasonal flow of high-quality Finnish and Nordic produce throughout each season. They source ingredients from Finnish producers, foragers, fisherman, farmers, and more, serving up immaculate dishes in a restaurant that seats only 18 people around an open kitchen. The executive chef and owner, Toni Kostian, calls Grön “a tribute to creativity, the wild, and us all.” After my experience here, I can without a doubt vouch for the creativity of the chefs, the homage paid to Finnish nature and culture, and the celebration of dining itself. The 13 course tasting menu started off strong with a dish of white fish, wood sorrel, coriander seeds, and wild horseradish. A fine overlay of thinly sliced, delicate wild horseradish and wood sorrel root complemented a perfectly tender white fish ceviche, awakening my palate with tangy and sour flavors. The second course, one of their more Instagramfamous dishes, was the tomato, oregano, and kombu pie. Served 18 bite | fall 2023
in a delicately crispy crust, the tomato and oregano confit with red currant brought to mind the freshness of summer produce, and the vibrancy of fresh herbs. This dish was a fun tactile experience (I was instructed to eat with my hands, not utensils), and the deliberate craftsmanship blew me away, down to the structural integrity of the tart shell (which stayed intact, not crumbling over my hands as I ate) and the kombu seaweed seasoning brushed over the tart’s exterior. The next dish of grilled and cream corn, blueberries, and Rossini caviar, was a delight, and the natural sweetness of the grilled corn played well with the blueberries. I can never say no to caviar, and found the saltiness to compliment the sweeter flavors of the dish. Then came more caviar: salmon roe served with a new harvest potato. Buttery, comforting, and rich, the fondant new potatoes topped with delicate onion flowers and roe evoked a lightness in a dish that could have easily been too heavy and decadent. The garden beans with black currant leaf, aged pork shank, and pork rib broth with more caviar boasted vibrant green colors that reminded me of the Finnish countryside I had explored earlier in the day, but at this point, I was feeling that the menu may have been too caviarheavy. Sometimes, including so much of one ingredient can make a tasting menu feel gimmicky, but the heavy inclusion of this “black gold” is due to the Russian influences on Finnish cuisine and culture. The next dish was one of
my favorites, and that was the barbeque morels au farchi, spruce shoot, and summer truffle sauce. A foamy yet velvety sauce enrobed tiny morels, delicately stuffed with chicken and truffle, and topped with a tender spruce shoot. This unique dish highlighted the sheer talent of the chefs to stuff the tiny morels. I had also never had spruce shoot before, and I found the texture to be springy, fresh, and mild. This paired well with the luxurious truffle sauce and intense flavors of the dish. Next, we ate honey, fennel pollen, and thyme Brioche bread with house-churned butter, which had a pleasantly crispy exterior that complemented the
luscious butter. The next dish of lobster tail, roasted summer carrot, and honey fudge sauce was tender, sweet, and decadent. By contrast, the Finnish lamb rack grilled on top of juniper wood with spring garlic and a cabbage mille feuille was hearty and rustic, a celebration of Arctic winters and the harsh yet beautiful Finnish countryside. After enjoying these courses, it was time for a palate cleanser, then dessert. A fresh and citrusy dish of white currant, lemon verbena, Finnish ginger, and bee pollen came next, before my personal favorite dessert: the grilled strawberry ice cream with quince meringue and summer flowers. Topped with a
delightfully chewy strawberry gelee (which brought to mind the Fruit Roll-Ups of my childhood), typical grocery store strawberry ice cream pales in comparison to the punch of fruity flavor delivered by Grön’s chefs, and the textures of the chilly ice cream and fluffy meringue blew me away. I’m usually not a fan of strawberry ice cream, but the deepness of the flavor and the many textures of this dish made it one of my favorites of the night. We finished our meal with a round of small dessert plates designed to showcase Finnish ingredients and nature. We began with a perfectly chewy sorrel pate de fruit with a crispy sugary exterior before moving on to a celebration of the popular Finnish liquorice candy. The kombu “liquorice” (actually made with a type of algae marinated in sugar) paired with lemon thyme bore an uncanny resemblance to the penny candy liquorice found in grocery stores that is beloved by Finns. We finished with two dishes that didn’t blow me away, but were delicious and fun nonetheless. The chocolate tartlet with summer berries was not inventive, but it was executed well, and the meadowsweet caramel chocolate eggs stunned
visually more than anything else. My meal at Ravintola Grön was not perfect, the desserts had some weak points, and not all of the dishes stood out to me equally. However, the intention of this tasting menu is not to be perfect, it is to represent Finnish cuisine, ingredients, and culture in the form of fine dining. When I think of my meal at Ravintola Grön, I think of the food being delicious, but I also think of Finland, and an appreciation for the country that produced my meal. When I think of the meal I enjoyed, I remember life events from my time in Finland, from foraging for mushrooms and berries with a wildlife photographer, to seeing 6 moose graze in a field of clover at sunrise, to thrifting the perfect top at a store frequented by Finnish teens, and the feeling of jumping into the Baltic sea after a sauna session. While my meal at Ravintola Grön was not perfect, to me, it was perfectly Finnish, and as Grön’s head chef, Toni Kostian, says, “It happens often that the best food memories [need] a lot more than just food, [they need] good people, fresh ingredients, and the perfect surrounding!” features 19
A Chocolate Economy Written by Markis Cheng Illustrated by Abbey Piatt Price In order to pay respects to my aunts and uncles during visits, my mom would give them the best gift one could ask for — a crystal chest of 24 golden nuggets, or Ferrero Rochers, in a plastic box. I would smile extra wide to whichever relative who was fortunate enough to receive the Ferreros and be rewarded with the sweet sensation of hazelnut, crisp wafer, and creamy chocolate. Ferrero Rochers had to be hidden in my household to prevent absolute chaos from unfolding, as I would fiend around for just a taste of these tiny golden treasures. It got so bad that my mom had to lock them in her industrial grade safe. Despite my addiction, chocolate has served a much greater purpose than satiating my sweet tooth, going so far as to act as currency in some time and cultures. The story of chocolate’s role in the economy begins with the ancient Maya civilization, when the people used cacao beans, the basis of chocolate, as currency. The Maya operated primarily on a barter system, where cacao beans were employed as a medium of exchange for goods and services. Depictions from the Classic Maya period between 250 C.E. and 900 C.E. revealed that cacao beans, in their fermented and dried form, were used as coins. These beans were often delivered as tribute payments to Maya kings, serving as a tax of sorts. Cacao was not just a utilitarian currency; it held cultural significance. Universally loved by the Maya, cacao’s appeal lay in its taste and exclusivity. Cacao trees did not thrive near Mayan cities due to climate constraints, making it a prized commodity. Some historians even believe cacao’s prominence in the economy may have contributed to the downfall of the Maya civilization. However, it is well known that drought, which is linked to their decline, is believed to have disrupted cacao production, leading to economic instability.
While chocolate can’t pay for your Uber, chocolate itself has evolved into a much more complex economic system. Worth billions of dollars across international markets, the production, trade, and consumption of chocolate is a thriving industry, with countless different players in play. The chocolate industry is heavily segmented, with many parts of the chocolate making process divided and owned by monopolies in their own field. In the intricate world of cocoa, a delicate balance exists between the interests of cocoa farmers, chocolate companies, and commodity traders. Cocoa farmers, the backbone of the
industry, aspire for higher prices to secure their livelihoods and investments in cocoa cultivation. In contrast, chocolate companies aim to keep costs low to maintain profitability and offer affordable products to consumers.
Commodity traders, situated at the heart of this dynamic, capitalize on the volatility of cocoa prices. Their expertise lies in understanding market trends and using strategies like pod counting, monitoring weather patterns, and analyzing the earnings of major chocolate makers. This information arms them with the knowledge needed to navigate the unpredictable cocoa market and capitalize on price fluctuations, whether they rise due to events, such as the Ebola outbreaks in 2015, or fluctuate due to the impacts of climate change.
However, the economics of chocolate have some much darker undertones as well. The top cocoa-producing countries like Ivory Coast, Nigeria, Ghana, and Indonesia export their products to industrialized countries while their own cocoa farm workers live below the poverty line and rarely taste the fruits of their labor. Cocoa production is concentrated in developing countries with lower per-capita GDPs to reduce costs and mitigate the volatility of cacao as much as possible. In contrast, the top consumers of chocolate, mainly in Europe, are predominantly industrialized nations. This stark contrast illustrates the global disparity in the cocoa industry, where those who cultivate the crop have limited access to the end product. Our chocolate economy culminates in its current status as a symbol of luxury and taste. While chocolate was historically associated with the aristocracy in Europe, it evolved into a
symbol of conspicuous consumption in bourgeois society during the 18th and 19th centuries. This was a means for the bourgeois to distinguish themselves from the working class. In addition, figures like Marie Antoinette and Princesse de Lamballe played crucial roles in popularizing chocolate in French noble circles by associating the sweet treat with status and luxury. The modern West continues to view chocolate as a treat or extravagance, making a stark contrast with its original nutritional or ritualistic uses by the Mayans and Aztecs. It has transcended the boundaries of its historical roots to become a status symbol that appeals to various cultures and backgrounds. Even Ferrero Rocher, the chocolate brand that exudes extravagance and success, is the ticket for many families, especially immigrant families like mine, to achieve instant, “attainable wealth.” Neatly wrapped up in 24 gold-lined tin foil, Ferrero Rochers and chocolates in general, have always been a chance for not-so opulent families to share the wealth. While I can purchase Ferrero Rochers on my own now, they somehow taste sweeter when they’re gifted. Everytime I get a chance to visit my relatives, I always make sure to bring a box with me.
features 21
BROWN BUTTER CARROT CAKE BY KAIA GRIGGS PHOTOS BY EMILY KIM
Nothing reminds me more of the feeling of being curled up by the fire, cozy socks on, tea mug in hand, than a thick slice of carrot cake. This cake, featuring brown butter cream cheese frosting, has converted three carrot cake haters in my life so far: bake a batch and challenge your friends to not love this recipe. The secret to its delicately moist crumb cake topping? Canned crushed pineapple. This cake, adapted from a recipe created by the classic French bakery Maman (which is also home to Oprah’s favorite chocolate cookie), incorporates the rich and warm spices reminiscent of grandma’s kitchen. It’s topped with a rich, tangy cream cheese frosting that balances the spiced cake with sweetness. To really invoke family-stle baking and keep them as moist as possible, I like to bake them in cast iron pans and make two 10-inch thinner cakes, but not to worry - you can pour all the batter into a 9x13-inch square pan, or a double round layer cake. You must also use freshly grated carrots - pre-grated carrots are too dry, and love is always in the prep. prep 45 minutes
cook 30 minutes
makes one 9x13 cake, or two 10 inch round cakes
GET Carrot Cake Vegetable spray (I personally prefer avocado) 2 ¼ cups all-purpose flour 2 tsps baking powder 1 tsp baking soda 1 ½ tsp fine sea salt 1 tsp ground allspice 1 tsp ground cardamom 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp grated nutmeg 1 cup packed light brown sugar 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil 4 large eggs, at room temperature 2 cups coarsely grated carrots (about 3 large carrots, adjust to your carrot-taste intensity preference) 1 cup slightly drained canned crushed pineapple 1 cup chopped raw unsalted walnuts (optional) ¾ cup raisins (optional)
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Frosting 1 stick, or ½ cup unsalted butter, room temperature 8 oz cream cheese, room temperature 1 cup packed light brown sugar 2 tsps pure vanilla extract ¼ tsp fine sea salt 1 cup confectioners sugar
DO Make the carrot cake 1. Set a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325ºF. Coat your pan of choice with vegetable oil spray. 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, allspice, cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, and nutmeg. 3. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the brown sugar, olive oil, and eggs and mix on low for about 3 minutes to fully combine. Add the flour mixture in 3 batches and beat on medium, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed, until fully combined and smooth after each addition, about 2 minutes total. 4. Fold in the carrots, pineapple, walnuts and raisins (if using). Transfer the batter to the prepared baking dish. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes. Set the dish on a wire rack to cool completely, about 1 ½ hours.
Brown the butter 1. take butter out of the fridge to soften for 15 - 20 minutes 2. Place the butter in a stainless steel pan or light colored skillet, and place the small heatproof bowl next to your workspace - be prepared to stay by the butter for the next 5-10 minutes as you need to keep it moving. 3. Turn the burner on to medium heat, and use a silicone spatula or wooden spoon to stir the butter constantly as it melts. 4. Once the butter has melted, it will start to sizzle and white foam will appear on the surface. Continue stirring. If the butter is sizzling too aggressively, turn down the heat 5. After about 5 minutes, the foam will start to disappear and you will notice white milk solids collecting at the bottom of the pan. These will cook and turn the butter brown. 6. As the milk solids cook they will go from light brown to amber colored very quickly, at which point the mixture will intensely smell like caramel. Remove the pan from the heat, continue to stir, then quickly but carefully pour all of the butter and the milk solids into the bowl to stop the cooking process. Watch carefully, as the milk solids burn quickly after they are a dark amber. Make the frosting 1. brown the butter (see above) 2. In the clean bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together the cream cheese and browned butter on high until smooth, creamy, and fully combined, about 3 minutes. 3. Turn the mixer to low and add the brown sugar, vanilla, and salt. Mix until the brown sugar is fully incorporated, about 30 seconds. With the mixer running still on low, gradually add the confectioners’ sugar and mix, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed, until fully incorporated, about 1 minute. Increase the speed to high and beat until soft peaks form, about 1 minute. 4. Spread the frosting evenly across the top of the cake. Slice, serve, and enjoy!
RECIPES 23
APPLE TARTE BY CONNOR BLOCH
PHOTOS BY TOBY CHAN
GET
For Vanilla Sable Tart Shell: 1 1/2 AP flour, plus more for dusting 2/3 cup confectioners' sugar prep 60 minutes makes 2 cups, use 4 apples for 2 tarts, 2 apples for one
DO 1.
2. 3. 4. 5.
6. 7.
8.
5 1/4 tbsp conrstrach 10 tbsp unsalted butter, cut into cubes, at room temperature 1 large egg
Combine the flour, confectioners’ sugar, cornstarch, salt, and vanilla seeds in a large bowl. Add the butter and mix with hands until butter is broken down into pieces the size of peas and the ingredients are well combined. Alternatively, use a stand mixer or hand mixer to combine the ingredients. Add egg and mix with a spatula until the dough is smooth and the egg is fully incorporated. Do not overmix. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and flatten into a disc. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or overnight, until cold but still pliable. It should have the texture of clay. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Flour your rolling pin and work surface. Unwrap dough and place it on the work surface. Roll out into a rectangle of about 1/8 inch thickness. Make sure to work quickly so the dough does not get too warm. Using an 8-inch tart ring or pan as a guide, cut the dough into a circle that is 1 inch wider than the ring (this ensures the dough will come up the sides of the tart ring). Line the tart shell with a round of parchment or large coffee filter so the dough is completely covered. Fill the tart shell with uncooked rice or dried beans to keep the dough in place. Bake on the center rack until the shell is light golden brown, approximately 15 to 20 minutes. Pull the tart shell out of the oven and remove the beans and parchment. Bake the tart shell without the beans for another 5 minutes, or until deep golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool.
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FOR PASTY CREAM, GET: 2 1/4 whole milk 2/3 cup granualted sugar 1/3 cup cornstarch 9 large egg yolks 8 tbsp unsalted butter, cut into cubes at room temperature prep 45 minutes
makes 4 cups, enough
to fill 2 tarts
DO 1. 2. 3.
4.
5.
Combine the milk and 1/3 cup of the sugar in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, whisking continuously. Remove from the heat. 2. Whisk together the remaining ⅓ cup sugar and the cornstarch in a large bowl. Slowly whisk in ½ cup of the warm milk mixture. 3. While whisking, add the egg yolks to the cornstarch mixture one at a time, whisking until each yolk is incorporated before adding the next. Pour the tempered egg yolk mixture into the pan with the remaining milk mixture. 4. Cook the pastry cream over medium-low heat, whisking continuously, until it thickens to a pudding-like consistency, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat. Add the butter and whisk until the butter is evenly combined and the pastry cream is a pale yellow with a smooth, glossy texture. 5. Strain the pastry cream through a fine mesh sieve to remove any lumps. Let cool and then chill before using.
FOR THE APPLE COMPOTE, GET: 6 Honeycrisp apples, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2 inch cubes 1/4 cub granulated sugar 1 tbsp+ 2 tsp water 1 Tahitian vanilla bean
ASSEMBLY OF FINAL: Tart Shell Almond Praline Almond Cake Apple Compote Pastry Creme 2 Apples
prep 90 minutes
prep 60 minutes
makes 2 cups, use 4
apples for 2 tarts, 2 apples for one
makes 1 1/4 cups (enough to fill 2 tarts)
DO 1.
Combine the apples, sugar, water, and vanilla seeds in a large saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, prep 90 minutes until all the liquid has evaporated and the compote thickened, about 30 to 45 minutes. The cook has 6.5 hours apples shouldmakes be golden brown 8 servings per and soft but still chunky. Cover and let cool completely.
2. 3.
FOR THE ALMOND CAKE BASE, GET: tart, makes two tartes1 1/2 large eggs 2 large egg yolks 2/3 confectioner's sugar 3/4 almond flour 4 1/2 large egg wthies 1/4 cup granulated sugar 1/2 cup AP flour, sifted, plus more
DO 1.
2.
3.
4.
5. 6.
for the pan
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter the bottom, sides, and edges of an 8-inch round cake pan. Pour in a couple tablespoons of flour and shake it around until the pan is evenly coated, then tap out any excess flour. In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine the eggs, egg yolks, confectioners' sugar, and almond flour and whip on a high speed until light, buttery, and yellow in color, about 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer the egg yolk mite to a large bowl. Wash and dry the mixer bowl and whisk attachment, then return both to the stand mixer. Put the egg whites in the mixer bowl and whip on medium-high speed until bubbles start to form, about 2 to 3 minutes. With the mixer on low, slowly add the granulated sugar and mix until the meringue is shiny and holds medium stiff peaks, about 5 to 7 minutes. Using a spatula, scoop ¼ of the meringue into the egg yolk mixture and gently fold them together until fully combined. Add the remaining meringue and gently fold until just combined (you should still be able to see a few streaks of meringue). Add the all-purpose flour and gently fold it in with a spatula until fully incorporated. Do this step as carefully as possible, so as not to knock air out of the batter. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake the cake until lightly golden brown for about 25 minutes. Let the cake cool in the pan for about 15 minutes. While the cake is still warm, place a large plate over it, then flip the plate and pan together; the cake should easily slide out of the pan onto the plate.
DO 1. 2.
3. 4. 5.
6. 7. 8.
Cut the cake horizontally, dividing it in half heightwise. Wash and cut the sides off of your apples either by using a mandolin or a chef's knife (only recommended if you have a very steady hand), which will allow you to thinly and evenly slice your apples less than 1/16 of an inch wide. Spoon some of your almond praline mixture, apple compote, and pastry cream into your piping bags. Take your tart shell, still in the mold, and pipe a layer of your almond praliné. The paste has a strong flavor, so you do not need to add too much. Put the bottom layer of almond cake inside the tart shell, piping a good amount of your apple compote on top, making sure to fill any gaps between the cake and the tart along the sides. Add a layer of pastry creme, spreading to completely cover your compote. Decoratively place your apples in a rose-like pattern on your tart. Enjoy!
RECIPES 25
YUZU MISO SALMON BY KAI SCHIRMACHER PHOTOS BY KARINA MAK
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As someone who loves to host, coming up with new recipes to impress my friends is always a challenge. How can I come up with something that looks unbelievable without compromising on taste? Fortunately, chefs around the world love to post their recipes online. A few months ago, I couldn’t go a day online without seeing another chef influencer make the same recipe: Nobu’s famous miso black cod. It’s a wonderful dish, but I wanted to do something new with it. So, I used it as inspiration rather than as the centerpiece of one of my dinners. A bit of citrus, some extra umami, and many attempts later, my twist on Nobu’s legendary dish is here for your enjoyment. 4-48 hours prep 30 minutes cook 1 serving makes
GET 3 1/3 tbsp miso 1.5 tbsp yuzu (if you don’t have yuzu, substitute in half orange half lemon) 2 tsp soy sauce 1/2 filet salmon 1 cup short grain rice, preferably sushi rice 1 ½ cup water 6 fl oz coconut milk 2 basil stalks 4 oz. vegetable oil (substitute in neutral cooking oil of choice)
DO For the salmon: 1. Mix yuzu, miso, and soy sauce in a bowl large enough to fit your salmon together. 2. Remove salmon skin. 3. Marinate salmon at least 4 up to 2 days in the fridge. 4. Preheat oven to 425 ºF. 5. Wipe off marinade. 6. Bake in oven for 8-10 minutes depending on thickness, until salmon is medium rare, about 125ºF. 7. Broil for 1-2 minutes to crisp the top. For the rice: 1. Wash and rinse rice in cold water until water runs clear. 2. In a medium pot, add water and rice and cook on medium heat until tender. 3. Once cool, wet hands and shape the rice into a rectangle about the same size as the salmon. 4. In medium pan, heat frying oil on high until hot. 5. Shallow fry on all sides in a neutral cooking oil (such as canola or grapeseed) until rice is golden brown. For the sauce: 1. Pour coconut milk into a pan on medium-low heat. 2. Add basil, let simmer until milk is infused with basil, about 15 minutes. 3. Blend together in a blender to create a vibrant green sauce. 4. Strain with a fine mesh strainer to remove clumps. 5. To plate, place salmon on top of rice and drizzle generously with sauce. Enjoy!
RECIPES 27
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28 bite | fall 2023
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