UChicago Bite Issue XXI: Winter 2023

dear foodies & friends

It is with happy hearts and loudly growling stomachs that we present to you the Winter 2023 issue of Bite Magazine! This quarter, we dove deep into the array of Chicago restaurants we’ve been dying to try. We tried so many different cuisines and were even able to snag an interview with Manish Mallick, owner of Rooh and Bar Goa (20). We are big fans of Hulu’s The Bear, so we traveled all across Chicago to taste the dishes from the show, such as the Italian Beef from Mr. Beef or the delectable chocolate layer cake from Loaf Lounge (8).

This quarter, we became extremely interested in the interplay of social media and food. We focused on chef personalities, and how they can inspire us to cook (12), and even took to the streets to see “What was for breakfast?” (14). We also took some time to be introspective and understand how food shapes the world around us, highlighted by some amazing food poems (16).

We also worked hard to make some delicious dinners that fit the winter bill. If you are looking for a dish that will make your apartment smell delicious for ages, try our cider-braised short ribs (24). If you are looking for something just as warm, but a little less meat-heavy, our mushroom bourguignon recipe is a must. To finish off your meal with something sweet, or even a wonderful mid-day snack, try our citrus-inspired scones and lemon curd (23).

As winter comes to a close, and the sun starts to shine a bit brighter, we are excited to continue to explore all that Chicago has to offer. If you are still looking to bunker in and avoid the blistering wind, we have hearty recipes for you. No matter what you decide is in your foodie future, don’t forget to tag us on Instagram (@uchicagobite) with all your epicurean adventures!

table of contents

5 The crepe shop 6 franco’s ristorante 7 Mi Tocaya 8 The bear 10 Venteux 11 bocadIllo market 12 Welcome to the Culinary Mediaverse

14 What was breakfast? 16 bites & pieces

18 a Lost Claws? What’s next for lobsters

20 If you want to open a restaurant

22 Mushsroom bourguignon 23 Mom’s Scones + Lemon Curd 24 Cider Braised Short Ribs

Co-Editor-in-Chief ALEX WANG

Co-Editor-in-Chief ARUSHI MUKHERJEE

Managing editor EMILY JACOBS

Assistant Managing editor Zoe Kim creative director FELIX GONZALEZ blog editor ISABELLA SUN

ASSISTANT Blog editor KALLIE HOFFMAN

communications director ANGELINA TORRE programming DIRECTOR CAYLA VOLANDES

designers Abbey Piatt Price, Bella Huang, Emma Tung, Eva Fajardo, Felix gonzalez, Janice Cho, Olivia Lang, Sam Levine, Sophia Koock, Victoria Kielb, Zeran Fei

writers Abby Yuhan, Aidan Cessor, Alex wang, Ally Gammill, Blair Penn, Elena Thoman, Ian B Henderson, Lucas Lin, Markis Cheng, Rachel Keefe, Sofia Torriente , Spencer Dearman, Stacia Konow, Zoe Kim

photographers Aditi Menon, Chris Low, emily kim, Jiahe Wang, Joana Ma, Karina Mak, Luna Zheng, Rae Tng, Shashank Beri

COVER PHOTO Jiahe Wang

Emily Kim, Jiahe Wang, Karina Mak, Luna Zheng, Shashank Beri,

If I had to describe The Crepe Shop in one word, I’d say immaculate.

Nestled in Lakeview, The Crepe Shop fits in well, yet stands out amongst other coffee shops and cafés. Walking in, the ambiance was immediately inviting with a pastel blue and white color scheme, accented by vibrant green plants surrounding every table. The yellow bar stools added a pop of color and the ornate baby blue designs on the tiling below the espresso bar created a sense of home. As a fan of many seating options, the combination of tables, barstools, and even egg-shaped hanging chairs provided a plethora of options to choose from.

Stepping up to the counter to order, we were immediately greeted kindly. We ordered the Honey Truffle Savory Crepe, the Ham and Cheese Crepe, the Lemon Curd Sweet Creep, a Vanilla Bean Latte, and a Mocha New Belgium. On this Saturday, The Crepe Shop was lively, however we were able to secure seating and receive our order within 15 minutes, providing a very fast turnaround.

Our first impressions were unanimous, the food looked stunning. The foam heart on the Vanilla Bean Latte, the subtle microgreens on top of the Honey Truffle Crepe, and the zig-zag piping of the lemon curd on top of the Lemon Curd Crepe were executed to perfection.

Beginning with the Vanilla Bean Latte and the Mocha New Belgium, my palate was immediately met with a sweet and comforting vanilla flavor, and a richer cacao for the mocha, flavors not typically found in latte. The coffee flavor then became apparent and was strong without being overpowering. These delicious lattes were the perfect match to the even more delectable crepes we were about to try.

The Honey Truffle Crepe was very intriguing, as it contained fontina, honey, truffle oil, arugula, and candied pecans. The flavor was immediately complex, yet well balanced and enjoyable. The earthiness from the truffle oil, the peppery brightness from the arugula, the crunchy pecans, and the natural sweetness from the honey all married together surprisingly well. The truffle oil was distinct without becoming overbearing; however, the honey became almost too sweet by the end of the crepe.

Moving onto the Ham and Cheese Crepe which contained black forest ham, fontina, a mornay sauce, and Dijon. I was pleasantly surprised with this innovative take on a traditional crepe. The black forest ham added a savory pork quality which was balanced by the mild and tangy fontina. The mornay sauce was present however the Dijon was slightly overpowering for many of the other delicate flavors in the crepe. Both savory crepes had a delicate crisp on the outside of the crepe itself while remaining soft and tender on the inside, providing a very pleasant mouthfeel.

Finally, the Lemon Curd Crepe, the pièce de resistance. If you must order a single item on the menu, this would be the item to order. The tanginess from the lemon curd perfectly balances the sweetness provided by the delicate crepe, which might I add was cooked to perfection. The poppy seeds provide a slight crunch to round out the textures, and overall, the entire crepe was a delight to try.

If you are ever in Lakeview or want a reason for a field trip, The Crepe Shop is a must try!

REVIEW

THE CREPE SHOP

BY SPENCER DEARMAN PHOTOS BY KARINA MAK

FRANCO’S RISTORANTE

BY ZOE KIM PHOTOS BY CHRIS LOW

Tucked in the corner of 31st street and Princeton Avenue lies Franco’s Ristorante, a quaint, old-school style Italian restaurant nested in the heart of Bridgeport. Familyowned and operated since 1989, Franco’s has been a Chicago favorite for their cozy atmosphere and classy, but unpretentious demeanor.

With its outer walls painted in red and black, coupled with a neon light sign in the front, the restaurant is hard to miss. Stepping in, the long hallway-like interior fills you with a warm hug. From the red button tufted leather booths, to the countless family photos hanging on the rustic brick wall, Franco’s exudes a classic coziness that welcomes you.

The coolest part, just past the old-school bar — the long window that looks directly into the bright kitchen. The tables were tightly packed together, but only added to the quaint family-style ambiance it possessed. We were lucky enough to be right next to an older couple who upon seeing us take pictures, added that they themselves own a food blog and gave us some recommendations of what their family loves to eat. One of the biggest things mentioned by the sweet couple were the portions. Each dish was generously served on a big plate, making it more than enough to split between two people and possibly leaving more to be enjoyed for later.

The menu made it easy for us, with a little red pasta symbol to mark their most popular dishes. We went big and ordered three of their most famous entrees. The first on the menu: the Chicken Giardiniera. The chicken cutlet was deliciously cooked and coupled well with the zesty flavor of the breading. The giardiniera was heavier on the vinegar than normal, with a surprising amount of sports peppers on the plate. Although the chicken was delicious, the relish was a confusing match with the cubed potatoes to the side of the chicken.

We turned it around by following up with the Fettucini alla Franco: Fettucini pasta in a rich pesto cream sauce topped with sautéed mushrooms and chicken. The mushrooms really shone in the dish; the medium sauce wasn’t overpowerful or too rich, allowing the earthy flavor of the mushrooms to add a unique complexity and freshness to the cream. The pasta was perfectly al dente, adding a nice firm texture to the smoothness of the sauce.

The showstopper, however, was their famous handmade gnocchi. Being their only pasta made in-house, the gnocchi did not disappoint with its excellent texture and flavors. Tossed in a rich tomato sauce and some fresh basil, the gnocchi was soft and smooth. The tomato sauce had a bit of refreshing tartness that paired well with the richness of the pasta. The taste was fresh and classic. Its simplicity made it better in a way that can only be described as a classic dish done perfectly with no bells and whistles, just its own flavor to speak for itself.

Lastly, our generous server gifted us their tiramisu to end our dinner. We were greeted with a large block of tiramisu topped with chocolate drizzle. It did not fail to disappoint, as the moist ladyfingers added a delicious sweetness to the mild mascarpone and light cream on top. It was not too sweet, and incredibly light, making it easy to finish it all as a satisfying conclusion to our hefty meal.

The portions were great, the food was delicious, and the dining experience was lovely. Not to mention, we met some nice friends along the way. A great representation of “a little can go a long way,” Franco’s Ristorante makes an excellent dinner destination for fun, old-school Italian cuisine. The next time you find yourself in Bridgeport, Franco’s is absolutely a place to check out.

MI TOCAYA

BY IAN HENDERSON PHOTOS BY LUNA ZHENG

>> NEIGHBORHOOD LOGAN SQUARE

>> PRICES $$$

Inside an aged, stone building situated at the corner of an unassuming block in Logan Square, there is a fun, energy-filled restaurant serving meticulously crafted dishes for their many guests. Mi Tocaya

Antojería is an artisanal Mexican restaurant that aims to compete with some of the best casual restaurants in the city of Chicago. Through their diverse menu, customers are exposed to many unique flavors, textures, and ingredients, in a beautifully decorated and homey setting.

At the beginning of our meal, I have to admit that I entered the restaurant with a scattered mind. It was midterms week, I was extremely hungry, and the guests seated at our table before us seemed to have no interest in getting up and allowing our meal to begin. In retrospect, however, the time spent waiting for our table provided a richness to the experience. The hostess kindly gave us endless chips and guacamole, which had a smooth, gelato-like consistency with the subtlest bit of heat. Moreover, the waiting provided a chance to look over at the open kitchen where the cooks precisely placed each vegetable and garnish on the appetizers. It was clear to me as I sat down that the employees at Mi Tocaya care deeply about creating a relaxing and dynamic experience for every customer.

The first dish brought to us were the Bruselas en Nogada, which was a brussels sprout-centered salad that nicely balanced the charred texture of the roasted vegetables with sweet and acidic notes of pomegranate and locally sourced grapes. The cashewbased dressing also provided a nice savoriness that perfectly balanced the flavors.

Our second appetizer was not met with as much praise, as their corn tortilla quesadilla did not offer the same diversity of textures and the lima bean filling slightly lacked in seasoning. For second courses, the Taco Arabe de Pollo and the Chamorro de Puerco en Mole certainly stole the show. The adobo-marinated chicken thighs had the perfect blend of citrus, smokiness, and bitterness from the charred ends. The homemade tortillas offered us the chance to build tacos where we all took advantage of the leftover guacamole. This style of eating exemplifies why Mi Tocaya is a perfect place to bring family and friends for a memorable meal. Our second main was an incredibly fatty pork shank that bathed in a rich mole sauce. The sauce added a continuity of flavor to each bite of pork and the specific notes of thyme and cloves showed that the chef at Mi Tocaya takes the time to source the best spices and freshest ingredients for every dish. While one could argue that the complexity and length of the menu results in some items being slightly muted in taste, I find that the powerful flavors from a few select dishes resulted in a fantastic dining experience for our group. I’ll certainly be going back for those delightful brussels sprouts and rich chicken thighs.

>> DISHES TO TRY BRUSELAS EN NOGADA, TACO ARABE DE POLLO, CHAMORRO DE PUERCO EN MOLE

FAMOUS FLAVOR IS JUST MILES AWAY: A “THE BEAR” REVIEW

BY ALLY GAMILL PHOTOS BY RAE TNG

Hulu’s hit show “The Bear” gives a look into the dynamics of a Chicago culinary classic: the Italian beef sandwich shop. It stars Jeremy Allen White who recently won a Golden Globe for Best Actor for his performance as Carmy, the fine-dining chef who inherits his family business after the tragic death of his brother. As a superfan of the show, I set out to visit and review the local spots in Chicago where viewers

can taste the show’s food—sweet Italian beef sandwiches and decadent chocolate cake—in real life. Though I did not find any family drama, screaming matches over giardiniera prep, or line cooks furiously screaming “corner!” at one another, I did find a couple dishes well worth the buzz they’re receiving…

LOAF LOUNGE

If you are unfamiliar with the show, one of the essential elements of the fictional restaurant is a layered chocolate cake. Viewers became obsessed with the luscious-looking cake, and the Loaf Lounge cafe delivered. “The Bear Chocolate Cake” was developed in response to the show’s popularity. Sold by the slice, it is made up of three layers of fudgy, dark chocolate cake with a semi-sweet mousse filling and covered in a sweet dark chocolate ganache. Each element of the cake brings a different angle of its chocolate decadence: the cake is less sweet and refreshingly bitter, the ganache is mellow and sweet, and the mouse brings a light, salted finish. Balance is present in every layer—the cake does anything but fall flat on an overly-sweet note as many cakes do. For both chocolate lovers and those indifferent to the ingredient, this is a must have dessert. What’s more, Loaf Lounge offers scrumptious sandwiches—I recommended the California Veggie—and a colorful mid century modern interior to go with your slice. Whether you have seen “The Bear” or not, both of these dishes will impress you with their star-power taste. Next time you find yourself downtown hungry for a cheap bite, don’t hesitate to stop by Mr. Beef on Orleans for a satisfying meal and a lively chat with one of the counter attendants. And, don’t forget to stop by Loaf Lounge after to finish the meal off on a sweet note worth every chocolatey bite. I consider myself lucky to have world-famous eats practically in my backyard—after trying these dishes you will too!

MR. BEEF ON ORLEANS

The show was directly inspired by the 44-year-old Mr. Beef on Orleans; the counter-service establishment is even the primary filming location for the first season of the show. Around the shop are recognizable tableaus—the storefront windows and cafeteriastyle dining room with one long table and a quarter-operated claw machine. This no-frills eatery features beef sandwiches, hot dogs, a few deli subs, and fried sides, all accompanied by the walls decorated with pictures of Chicago celebrities. For only eight dollars you can get an Italian beef sandwich “The Bear” style—sweet Italian beef with spicy pickled peppers. Though it doesn’t look like much, the spicy, sweet, and deeply savory sandwich hits all the right notes. The acidic pickled peppers cut through the perfectly seasoned layers of thinly sliced, juicy beef. Contained by a generic hoagie roll soaked through with the meat’s drippings, the sandwich practically melts in your mouth. Bring lots of napkins and maybe even a wipe— you’ll need it.

VENTEUX REVIEW

BY RACHEL KEEFE PHOTOS BY PHOEBE FINGOLD

Located a block away from Millenium Station, Venteux is a cozy yet chic French brasserie, cafe, and oyster bar. Venteux in French means “windswept,” which aptly describes the contemporary vibe of the restaurant upon first entrance. Visitors feel as if they are transported to a charming Parisian restaurant. The burgundy upholstered booth cushions coupled with the soft light of the chandeliers create a classic feel that permeates the entire space. Brass picture frames and mirrors adorn the walls.The clinking of glasses and excited chatter fill the air as waiters bustle about, but the space still invites intimate conversations. The atmosphere balances elegance and simplicity, so customers feel as though they are dining in a sophisticated space without it being too pretentious.

Dining on the early side of a Friday night, our table was seated in the heart of the main dining room. The menu meshes the staples of French cuisine—steak frites, French onion soup, and ratatouille en cocotte, to name a few—with traditional eats like their classic Venteux burger. As a group of eight, we ordered a variety of dishes, sharing plates with one another as the portion sizes were extremely generous. In the beginning, the service was prompt and efficient, however, as the night progressed, the staff was less attentive to our table, which resulted in slower fulfillment of requests and food service.

The winter salad—composed of sweet candied walnut, tart pears,

red beets, and Boursin atop fresh mixed greens—was a table favorite. The complementary blend of sweet and savory had a delectable taste, which was further enhanced by the airiness of the champagne herb vinaigrette. Moving on to the heartier dishes, the salmon en papillote was tender and coupled with warm baked vegetables. While the salmon had a rich, buttery flavor, the presentation was somewhat strange in the paper wrapping and lacked aesthetic quality— in other words, it was not very Instagram worthy. However, the pappardelle with braised short rib was decadent. The tender, slow-cooked short rib mixed with the hearty paradelle pasta created a comforting harmony of taste and texture. The saltiness of the crispy pancetta and the creaminess of the chestnut mushrooms added depth to the dish, melding together a rich abundance of flavor. We finished with the classic Venteux burger. Though the burger size was a bit overwhelming, the patty topped with gruyére had a smoky flavor, which paired nicely with the mountain of crispy thin-cut fries. All in all, Venteux was successful in producing the classic feel of a Parisian restaurant while satisfying our palettes with rich cuisine. Although service at the restaurant was substandard, the overall experience was positive given the warm ambiance and delightful food that pleased both our eyes and taste buds. So, if you’re looking to indulge in flavorful French cuisine, Venteux is the spot for you.

>> NEIGHBORHOOD

LINCOLN PARK

>> PRICES

$$$

>> DISHES TO TRY

PATATAS BRAVAS

SERRANO HAM CROQUETAS

ARTICHOKE GNOCCHI

ACORN SQUASH

Bocadillo Market is a quaint, warm, and stylish wine bar that I was lucky to stumble upon while walking through Lincoln Park on a rainy winter night. Its calm, europeanstyle atmosphere stands out against the busy Clark Street, making it the perfect stop for a relaxing snack on a day or night out. Known for its small plates and tapas, the market offers a wide range of beautifully presented dishes with complex flavors to share with friends. As the restaurant name suggests, the space also serves as a small market that sells wine, olive oil, and other imported foods from spain. During the morning and early afternoon hours, it primarily serves as a cafe— serving coffee, sandwiches, and casual bites. At night, it shifts into a sit-down restaurant atmosphere with more upscale dishes, making it the perfect spot for anything from a quick coffee to a fancy date.

If the inviting atmosphere alone doesn’t entice you to step inside, the delicious food should. Every dish I tried featured bright flavors and fresh ingredients. I started with the patatas bravas and the croquettas, two potato-based dishes cooked to perfection. The patatas bravas had the perfect texture, with a golden-brown and crispy exterior, and a soft, buttery interior. They’re paired with a smoky seasoning blend, a roasted tomato and pepper sauce, and a tangy lemon aioli, which

together, create a beautifully full, yet simple combination. The croquettas are heavy and rich, with salty jamon serrano inside and a garlic aioli underneath. Another dish worth highlighting is the artichoke gnocchi (just labeled “Artichoke” on the menu). As an excellent vegetarian entree, this dish does a wonderful job of balancing the soft umami of the mushrooms with tangy, sharp sauces and pickled veggies, and rounds itself out with a mild gnocchi base.

To finish off the meal, I tried the spanish cookies and espresso ice cream. I was initially intrigued by the flavor profile of this dessert, as it incorporated saffron into what is essentially a chocolate chip cookie and ice cream sandwich. While I loved the addition of the saffron for a more Spanish twist on a classically American dish, the ice cream ended up being banana-based, which I found to be a bit of an overpowering flavor that drowned out the saffron. Although the dessert was not as perfect as the other dishes I tried, I left the restaurant ready to come back for more. I was especially impressed by the chef’s attentiveness to his customers and the artistry of each dish, which made it feel like a fine-dining experience. I would recommend this restaurant to anyone stopping in Lincoln Park looking to treat themselves to a fancier bite to eat.

BOCADILLO MARKET

BY ELENA THOMAN PHOTOS BY KARINA MAK

Welcome to the Culinary Mediaverse

BY ALLY GAMMIL

PHOTOS BY KARINA MAK

As swiftly as the twenty-first century’s media has taken over our social lives, it has dragged the culinary world along with it. The ins and outs of fine dining, the development of culinary skills, and general knowledge of gastronomy—the art of choosing, cooking, and eating good food—have never been so accessible to a public audience. But what does this mean for the world of a chef? Does social media corrupt the art of cooking? Are we consuming food or are we consuming the personality behind it?

Alison Roman, former Bon Appétit personality turned YouTube sensation, has been at the forefront of this virtualization of the culinary world. Roman’s a minimalist at heart, as seen from her simple titles within her cookbook Dining In and her newsletter… “a newsletter”. This translates to her food which often utilizes straightforward ingredients; her “twenty-twenty stew” is made of only onions, beans, cabbage, broth, and dill. However, She takes simplicity and transforms it into scrumptiousness. In her words, “the secret is in the treatment of the ingredients.” But, beyond her cooking, she brings this no-frills-added character to her personality and presentation of the dishes On her YouTube channel, “Home Movies”, Roman utilizes her persona not only to create a platform for entertainment but to express her individuality through her approachability as an internet personality and chef. Culinary identity is ever present in any form of gastronomy, and Roman’s media-centered approach only intensifies this. In this sense, perhaps we’re always consuming the persona with the food. Thus, it is only natural that Tiktok was the next platform that experienced this explosion of culinary influencers. At the forefront of this was Meredith Hayden, or @WishBoneKitchen, a private chef persona who worked from the

Hamptons this summer. The 26-year-old amassed one million followers by creating short clips of her experience cooking in her hosts’ ritzy coastal mansion. Using ingredients picked fresh from the home’s garden, she incorporates her fine-dining background into her casual summer dishes in a way that makes high-end, farm-to-table style food accessible. Chefs like Hayden showcase technically advanced dishes and methods on their platforms, unlike the typical simple recipe tutorials that occupy much of food media. Is the average person going to make seared scallop caramelized shallot pasta every day after work? No. But, it’s inspiring for inexperienced chefs and undeniably fun to watch. This is the beauty to be found within culinary media: these platforms spread the art form of cooking to the masses. Whether it’s presented as a day in the life of an actual chef or rather home cooks exploring advanced techniques, culinary art is consumed and appreciated just as virtual galleries and streamed fashion shows are.

The media chef can be a source of entertainment, inspiration, and a way to depart from toxicity within social media. Rather than opening my Instagram explore page to see models and workout videos, I see beautiful compositions of ingredients and invitations to expand my gastronomic knowledge. Like in any application of social media, these representations do, in a sense, glamorize the life of a chef. But chefs like Alison Roman and Meredith Hayden spread a genuine love and appreciation for food in ways that traditional celebrity chefs never could; as with social media broadly, online cooking content comes with no access barriers. The culinary mediaverse is moving to be the future of food for all, and I’m happily along for the ride.

I was able to observe an interview Alan gave in Hyde Park in January. He stopped a woman on the street, complimented her outfit, asked if she wanted to be part of his video project called “Whatwasbreakfast,” and then asked, “What did you have for breakfast today?”. While the awkwardness of a stranger randomly stopping another stranger was still present, there was also an aura of comfort that was stepped into by asking a simple and familiar question about a person’s life. The question can serve as an icebreaker between two strangers because the question poses little intense self-reflection; it is simply a way to approach people in a manner that provides a real snippet of

We often see media on Instagram and Tiktok that creates similar interview-like content. But more times than not, this type of content asks questions that dig deep or are extremely personal, existing for entertainment and consumption by unknown people. Alan’s account tries to move away from this, creating an interaction with a stranger that opens doors to conversations and personal connections. He doesn’t stop strangers to psychoanalyze them, but to have genuine human interaction and provide a window into a person’s life. He is inspired to engage with strangers, and have meaningful experiences of candid honesty. Breakfast is Alan’s vessel for these experiences.

Alan proves that breakfast, a meal full of endless options, can be an opener. And he also proves the value of a new conversation. At face value, it’s just fun to hear what strangers are eating for breakfast, but there is much more that can be extrapolated. Everyone eats breakfast, and everyone can relate. It’s a window into a person’s day and personality, providing information about a person, but also leaving more mystery. In this sense, we can see breakfast as a beginning, in many ways: beginning of a conversation, day, relationship. In a bit of a cliché, everyday we get to start anew, and breakfast is an instrument

By Abby Yuhan Illustrated by

Abbey

Piatt Price

Bites & Pieces

One day, I realized my favorite color had become purple I’m not exactly sure when that changed though I’ve always loved lavender and myrtle and my Christmas plum tea so much that my mug is already drained

I looked at my hands as I added honey to the tea realizing that i’ve had my nails painted “Endless Purple Pursuit” for weeks I was thinking of eating a fig for a snack before I leave but it’s a bit small and I always want one more piece

by Stacia Konow

pull up a chair table overflowing friends food silverware pierogies gyoza samosas vegetables and dough together sitting smiling a glinting glass suddenly in hand effervescing light stay laugh settle in finally together

photography by Jiahe Wang

I bit into a peach and a bit of sadness washed away in the juice running down my chin, tears running down my reddened cheeks, sticky hands reaching for a napkin finding my eyes instead of my mouth.

Having a Coke with You is even more fun than staying up until 3am on a Wednesday just because we can or running through forgotten basements and exploring forbidden rooftops partly because we’re both always exhausted and the sugar is a welcome reprieve partly because I only feel like myself when we’re talking, partly because I don’t want to go to bed partly because I want you to know I’d do anything for you even share an orange which I don’t even like, partly because you are just happy to share partly because you look ridiculous with the orange slice smile and I know you’re doing it to make me laugh, partly because it made me realize I haven’t laughed like that in a while

To every friendI’ve had a Coke with

You looked at me like I was insane to say that coke and lime go together. I honestly didn’t believe it at first either because it doesn’t sound like it would taste good. I think it’s actually supposed to be Jack and coke with lime, but we both know that I wouldn’t drink whiskey if my life depended on it even though you’ve told me it gets better if you let it sit on your tongue, just like we both let words sit a little too long in our mouths. I tell you to just cut the lime already and try it because it’s really not that bad but instead you eat the lime straight just like you eat your oranges and it makes me laugh and you say that the lime is delicious and I should try it but you say that about the oranges too so instead I lean in and it’s the sweetest lime I’ve ever had

a Lost Claws?

What’s next for lobsters

Ordering lobster at a restaurant is a classy statement; listed as ‘MP,’ lobsters mean money. They are often a celebratory food served at special occasions, like weddings. My Dad grew up always having lobster on his birthday as a once a year treat and break from being Kosher, so eating lobster was super special for him. Thus lobster meaning fancy has been seared into my brain. Imagine if lobsters could talk? Without a doubt they would have a crisp British accent, and in my mind, that image of a lobster is not complete without a top hat and cane. Believe it or not, lobsters have come a long way; the American masses once thought of lobsters as the ‘cockroach of the sea,’ then later as the ‘poor man’s protein,’ and finally the image of a lobster is equated to ‘fine dining.’ Unfortunately, with the current environmental struggles, the image of the lobster may fail to keep evolving, and the future of these classy crustaceans remains unclear.

When the first European settlers reached America, lobsters were abundant, and could be found washed ashore in piles up to two-feet high. Many people consumed lobsters only during hard times, which gave them their less than reputation. American Settlers were not the first group of people to take advantage of lobster’s abundance, and before the Settlers reached America, Native Americans used lobsters to fertilize their crops and as bait for fishing. Native Americans often ate crustaceans by preparing them covered in seaweed and baking them over hot rocks, which became the inspiration for the classic New England clambake.

During the 1700s in Maine, special boats called smacks started being used; these boats had tanks with holes that allowed seawater to circulate which allowed fishermen to keep their lobsters alive as they transported them. Lobsters then became dirt-cheap because they were so abundant! As a result of this they were typically fed to prisoners, apprentices, slaves, and children during the colonial era and beyond. When railways started to spread through America, transportation managers realized something: if no one knew what lobsters are, trains could serve them to passengers as if they were a rare, exotic, and exciting item! These inland passengers were intrigued, and found the lobster delicious. These passengers, who didn’t know that it was considered trash food on the coast, began to love it and ask for it outside of the train.

Lobster was first introduced into restaurants in the 1850s and 1860s in the salad bar section, alongside bread, or cottage cheese. Americans loved lobster, even in this cheap, lowdown way, so they demanded more, driving the price up. By the

1880s, chefs had discovered that lobster could be a lot more appetizing if they cooked it live instead of killing it first and cooking it later.

During World War II, lobster was not rationed like other food, and so people of all classes began to enjoy lobster and discover its deliciousness. Eventually this drove the price way up, so, by the 1950s lobster was established as a delicacy, something people ate on their birthday or what the Rockefellers served at their parties.

Lobster is a food that has been used to mark the passage of presidents, and to welcome the prominent figures to the US. Lobsters have been served at many inaugural presidential events – George Bush and Ronald Reagan dined on Lobster during their inaugural luncheons. More recently, President Obama featured lobster in seafood stew during his inaugural luncheon. Lobster was also served to welcome guests to the white house such as Chinese President Hu Jintao and Queen Elizabeth.

So what is up with lobsters in 2023? Unfortunately, their image is not so cut and dry. On the one hand, curbing lobster fishing is at the top of priorities for sustainability groups. Lobster nets and pots have become a threat to the critically endangered North Atlantic right whales, so lobsters have been red listed to protect these whales. More than 80% of right whales have been entangled in fishing gear at least once, which can be embedded in their skin, weighing them down and leaving them unable to swim or feed properly.

On the other hand, Millennials, encompassing those born between 1981 and 1996, have an interesting relationship and view of lobsters. Millennials, as a generation, care about their health and lobster is a healthy food, but they also have environmental concerns. They love luxury items, especially those with a personal touch and story behind them, like the lobster. In fact, in 2016, a survey by Nation’s Restaurant News concluded that Red Lobster is the restaurant of choice for those between the ages of 18 and 24. The rating came as a surprise to the Red Lobster CEO ashe said the restaurant has not been directly advertising to millennials.

Clearly there is something attractive about the rugged, yet classy lobster, and it must still serves as a symbol of wealth and luxury as millennials are yearning to consume it with a glass of white wine. Few realize it was once as cheap as a Big Mac, and it will be interesting to see over the next 100 years where we will find ourselves on this journey with lobster

by Blair Penn

illustrated by Abbey Piatt Price

If you want to open a restaurant,

By Markis Cheng Illustrated by Abbey Piatt Price

You’d have to be crazy.

Raring to take my culinary endeavors to the next step, imagine my surprise when I shared to Manish Mallick, owner of Rooh and Bar Goa, about my potential plans to open a restaurant. His response wasn’t exactly the hope-filled encouragement friends and family had so earnestly expressed to me prior. To the defense of my naivety, I thought talking to Mallick would reveal the best-kept secrets to restaurant success – too, would I be able to replicate my own restaurant stardom. I mean, Mallick had only kept Rooh and Bar Goa’s initial doors open during the height of the pandemic, along with high reviews and ratings to follow suit.

Initially, Mallick’s experiences seem only tangentially related to being a restaurant owner, serving as a program manager for General Motors, before getting his MBA and Master’s in Computer Science at UChicago. However, after years of seasoned traveling where he developed a globetrotter’s palette, he yearned to share his unique culinary experiences back home in Chicago. When an opportunity presented itself in the heart of West Loop, he and his wife, Reena, took a leap, opening Rooh, and after its success, its sister restaurant, Bar Goa, in River North.

There is a point in our conversation where Manish’s voice tightens with gravitas, and he beckons me to listen. Restaurants exist as one of the riskiest business ventures, but if your pur pose to open a restaurant is for monetary gain, you’ve already failed – your true goal is to create a unique dining experience that you will be confident in and that your guests will enjoy Fundamentally, you are competing with other restaurants to not be more profitable, but to sell experiences not found anywhere else. If you’ve come into the industry looking for a profitable venture, look elsewhere.

Photos by Shashank Beri

I continue to listen - owning a restaurant is also a lot about managing its people and their expectations, alongside the food you serve. Whether it be the livelihood of your staff, or the experiences of your customers, people are what drive the lifeblood of your restaurant. Chefs want a space where their creativity can flourish. Customers are always looking for their next life-altering experience. Learning to manage the people and their expectations are critical in being a successful restaurateur.

However, and this is especially important, inspiring your frontline is what makes the difference between a standard restaurateur, and a standout one. Front-house staff hold the most tireless professions, carrying the burdens and expectations of both the kitchen staff and front house all at once. The restaurant owner may create the strategy, but the servers, hosts, managers, and those interacting with customers are the ones carrying out the battle plan. They jointly shoulder the burden of the restaurant’s reputation and the experience of the customer.

No general has ever succeeded without the loyalty and support of their army, and it is the same for the restaurateur. For Mallick, that comes with showing his full support to his

house staff – his respect is always a given; wages will always be competitive; mistakes serve as learning opportunities and not moments of humiliation . It includes igniting a passion to work in the restaurant industry, the good, the bad, the highs and lows, Mallick aims to inspire and uplift those around him. Bar Goa’s manager, Kim Keang, rekindled her passion for the industry through Mallick’s sheer enthusiasm, overcoming the burnout she had faced from the industry once before. To him, this is the true mark of a successful restaurant owner – to have a passion and character so bright, people have no choice but to follow.

In the fleeting moments of our conversation, I asked Manish to recollect his best memories as a restaurant owner.

“It was when I would wake up with butterflies in my stomach, wondering if I would have enough staff, enough to distribute tips, or even complete service for the day, but telling myself it would get done, no matter the way. To look back and see how much I’ve accomplished, those are my best memories.” He pauses, triumph and pride undeniably resonant in his voice.

And I’d be crazy if I didn’t do it again.

MUSHSROOM BOURGUIGNON

prep 30 minutes

cook 30-40 minutes makes 4-6 servings

BY SOFIA TORRIENTE PHOTOS BY ADITI MENON

Around my apartment, this dish has affectionately become known as ‘hug-in-a-bowl.’ In this vegetarian interpretation of the French classic, mushrooms take center stage as a slightly cheaper, but no less flavorful substitute for beef—an excellent trick brought to me by my lovely Francophone roommate and friend, Anna-Katia. So, next time there’s a snowstorm, consider whipping up this quick but hearty winter’s stew and serving it over a bowl of creamy mashed potatoes, polenta, pasta, or even just with a couple of pieces of crusty French bread!

GET DO

2 pounds mixed mushrooms (such as crimini, white button, portoboello, porcini, shitake, oyster, etc.), cut into small, bite-sized chunks

1 large leek or 2 small leeks, white and light green parts finely chopped

2 large carrots or 4 small carrots, peeled and quartered into 1-inch chunks

1/2 cup fresh or frozen peas

1 sweet onion, diced

12 small pearl onions (optional)

4 tbsp olive oil, plus more as needed

2 tbsp butter, plus more as needed

5-6 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

2 tsp Herbes de Provence

2 bay leaves

2 tbsp tomato paste

2 tbsp all-purpose flour

2 1/2 cups dry red wine

2 1/2 cups vegetable or mushroom

stock

Kosher salt and freshly-cracked black pepper, to taste

1. Add 1 tablespoon butter and 2 tablespoons oil to a large Dutch oven or pot and set it over medium heat.

2. When the fat is hot, stir in half the msuhrooms and half the pearl onions. If they don't all fit in the pot in one layer, you might have to do this in three batches rather than two.

3. Without stirring too much, cook the mushrooms until they are brown on one side, about 3 minutes. Turn and let them brown on the other side, roughly 2 to 3 minutes more. use a slotted spoon to transfer mushrooms and onions to a large bowl or plate and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

4. Repeat with another 3 tablespoons butter/oil and the remaining mushrooms and pearl onions. Again, seasoning as you go.

5. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Add another 1 tablespoon butter or oil to pan and add leeks and carrots. Season and sauté until the leeks turn lightly golden and start to soften, 5 minutes. Add the 2 minced garlic cloves and sauté for 1 minute longer.

6. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 1 minute. After, sprinkle in the flour and cook, stirring for 1 minute.

7. After cooking off the flour, add the wine, broth, Herbes de Provence and bay leaf, making sure to scrape up any brown bits at the bottom of the pot. Add reserved cooked mushrooms and pearl onions back to the pot and bring to a simmer.

8. Partly cover the pot and simmer on low heat until carrots and onions are tender and sauce is thick, 30 to 40 minutes. Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed.

9. Serve mushroom bourguignon immediately over polenta, noodles, or mashed potatoes.

10. Top with fresh herbs of your choosing. Enjoy!

Adapted from NYT Cooking

MOM’S SCONES + LEMON CURD

BY AIDAN CESSOR PHOTOS BY JOANNA MA

The biting wind and frosted ground make for a great excuse for a cozy tea party. Thus, steep some strong black tea and get to baking these scones and lemon curd. The scones have been perfected by my mom and are a frequent sight to behold for Thanksgiving or Christmas morning, but are just as scrumptious for any occasion. The scones come out with a wonderful, slightly crunchy exterior and soft inside. To achieve this immaculate texture, all the ingredients must remain super cold. The extra effort makes all the difference when it comes to baking. The nuts and fruit are vital parts for the texture. Store-bought lemon curd never compares to homemade as a topping for these scones. This recipe makes quite the serving, which is excellent, as peanut butter and lemon curd sandwiches are great snacks as well. Get out the fancy china, and lacy napkins, and snuggle up with these elegant yet simple treats.

GET

For Mom’s Scones:

2 1/2 cups flour

3 tbsp sugar

1 tbsp baking powder

1 tsp salt

2 tsp grated nutmeg

1 tbsp grated lemon zest

8 oz (1 stick), put in the freezer before using

1 egg

¾ cup half & half milk

1/2 cup nuts chopped (I suggest pecans)

1/2 dried fruit (I suggest dried cherries)

3 tbsp heavy cream

DO

For Mom’s Scones:

GET

For Lemon Curd:

5 eggs

1 1/2 cup sugar

1 ¼ cup of lemon juice, freshly squeezed

2 tbsp lemon zest

1 tsp of salt

10 tbsp of butter(1 stick and a ¼ ), chopped into medium-sized pieces

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit

2. Mix flour, baking powder, zest, salt, nutmeg, and sugar together in large bowl

3. With a pastry cutter or two knives, chop and mix in the very cold butter into flour mixture until it is small crumbs

4. In a separate bowl, beat egg and half & half together

5. Combine wet mixture with the dry ingredients

6. Add nuts and fruit

7. Mix until dough is smooth, yet slightly shaggy, then form roughly a ball

8. On floured surface, form log and divide into roughly 12-14 equal sized pieces

9. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush with heavy cream and sprinkle sugar on top

10. Bake for 18-20 minutes or until golden brown. Check at 18 minutes.

DO

For Lemon Curd:

1. In large bowl, mix together eggs, sugar, lemon juice, zest, and salt

2. Transfer mixture to a saucepan over medium heat. Whisk constantly for 2-3 minutes

3. Add butter and whisk until melted and the curd thickens. About 10 minutes

4. Transfer and strain into an airtight container. Curd keeps well for 2 weeks in the refrigerator.

Adapted from https://therecipecritic.com/lemon-curd/

CIDER BRAISED SHORT RIBS

BY ALEX WANG PHOTOS BY EMILY KIM

Short ribs are a perfect dish to cook in the winter: comforting, satisfying, and super hands off. You can start these short ribs on a Sunday morning, leave them in your oven to braise all day, and have a delicious meal ready by dinner time with plenty of leftovers for the rest of the week. Apple cider is the perfect braising liquid for these short ribs because it reduces down to a sweet, caramelized glaze that helps to cut the meatiness of the short ribs.

The key to braising short ribs is to use as low of a temperature as you dare. The higher you go, the faster the beef will cook, but the more damage you will do to the protein structure, resulting in dryer, stringier meat. On the other hand, the longer you cook for, the more collagen will be converted to gelatin, which absorbs liquid and results in tender, moist meat. The key is that collagen converts to gelatin at any temperature above 160 degrees, so cooking on high heat doesn’t really melt the collagen any faster and you are better off cooking them low and slow. In fact, I’ve even seen recipes for 129 degree short ribs cooked sous vide for 72 hours. You are not going to be able to do that in a Dutch oven realistically, so anywhere from 200 to 250 is a good braising temperature.

prep 30 minutes

cook 4-7 hours

makes 4 servings

GET

3 pounds English cut short ribs

3 cups nonalcoholic unfiltered apple cider

3 cups beef stock (as low sodium as possible)

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar, plus more to taste

1 large yellow onion

2 sticks of celery

1 large stick of carrot

Optional aromatics:

1/2 bulb of fennel

1 large leek

1 large rutabaga

Optional herbs/seasonings:

2 bay leaves

1 sprig rosemary

2 sprigs thyme

2 cloves star anise

1 large piece of cinnamon

To season:

Kosher salt

Black pepper

Olive oil

DO

1. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.

2. Season the short ribs generously with kosher salt and black pepper. Let sit for 15 minutes to absorb the salt.

3. Cut the aromatics (onion, celery, carrots, and optional vegetables) into large pieces. They do not need to be very small since their purpose is simply to contribute flavor to the braising liquid and they will be discarded once the braising is complete.

4. Place a Dutch oven or stockpot on high heat, and once very hot add a splash of olive oil. Sear the ribs in small batches on all four sides, removing from heat to a separate plate.

5. Once all the meat is seared, drain the remaining fat from the pan (use it to make delicious roasted potatoes). Return the pot to medium heat and deglaze the pot with the apple cider.

6. Return the short ribs to the pot, and add the aromatics. Add enough beef stock to completely cover the beef and aromatics (and more if it fits). Add 2 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar and the optional seasonings if desired to the pot.

7. Place the pot in the oven, covered with the lid slightly ajar. Cook for at least 4 hours but as long as you dare, checking every 2 hours or so. If the beef is no longer covered by the braising liquid, add more beef stock and apple cider. The braising liquid should be lightly salty, but do not add too much salt at this point because the braising liquid will be transformed into a highly concentrated glaze later.

8. Once the short ribs are very tender to the touch, remove the pot from the oven. Remove the herbs and aromatics and discard them if desired (they will most likely be mushy and flavorless at this point). Remove the short ribs and set them aside.

9. Reduce the braising liquid on medium heat until it forms a sweet, sticky glaze. While making it, season with apple cider, beef stock, salt, and apple cider vinegar as necessary. Once the glaze has reached the correct consistency, return the short ribs to the glaze and toss until coated.

Serving suggestions:

1. Boil a large pot of water. Peel your potatoes, and boil until tender. Cool, then mash until smooth

2. Measure approx. 1 cup of your mash potato, and combine with the flour and beaten egg. Knead this mixture until it forms a ball of dough

3. Roll the dough into a long, thin (roughly 1/2 in diameter) “snake,” and use a fork to create uniform horizontal ridges in the snake. Cut the dough snake into 1 in. pieces

4. Boil in salted water for 4 minutes (or until the gnocchi float to the top)

5. Drain and set aside

6. Done!