de ar foodies & friends It is with happy hearts and loudly growling stomachs that we present to you the Spring 2023 issue of Bite Magazine! This quarter, we explored new neighborhoods and revisited old haunts to bring you our favorite dishes across Chicago. Some of our favorites for spring included the delectable French food at Dear Margaret (6), and the cozy but bright ramen at Gyro Ramen (7). For dessert, we explored lots of ice cream options and fell in love with Kurimo and Black Dog Gelato (8). For anyone looking to try their hand at some new recipes, we have a brilliant focaccia recipe (24) complete with foolproof steps for the perfect loaf, which you can turn into the most amazing sandwich (25). Or, celebrate the end of winter and the start of spring with this light, delicious citrus savarin cake (22). If you are feeling more adventurous, and ready to leave home after winter hibernation, read all about the food scene in Paris (14), or even plan your own picnic with our best tips and ideas on how to enjoy the best treats while basking in the warm spring sun (18). On behalf of the entire Bite staff, thank you all for another wonderful year of culinary adventures. We will return autumn quarter with even more recipes, special features, how-tos, interviews, restaurant reviews, and more. We hope you take some time to relax and unwind this summer, and perhaps even try new dishes and cuisines. While you enjoy food all spring and summer long don’t forget to tag us on Instagram @ uchicagobite with all of your epicurean adventures!
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table of contents 5 Pinched on the River 6 Dear Margaret 7 Gyuro Ramen 8 KURIMU & black dog gelato 10 Cafe el Tapatio 12 Don’t Follow Your Nose... 14 The Art of Eating & Drinking 16 WHAT's UP WITH Gefilte Fish? 18 How to plan a perfect picnic 20 Ode to Tinned Fish 22 Citrus Savarin CakE 24 NO KNEAD FOCCACIA 26 Pan Fried Salmon Co-Editor-in-Chief ALEX WANG Co-Editor-in-Chief ARUSHI MUKHERJEE Managing editor EMILY JACOBS Assistant Managing editor Zoe Kim creative director FELIX GONZALEZ blog editor Kallie Hoffman ASSISTANT Blog editor KALLIE HOFFMAN communications director ANGELINA TORRE programming DIRECTOR CAYLA VOLANDES designers Abbey Piatt Price, Bella Huang, dani burch, Emma Tung, Felix gonzalez, isabella liu, Olivia Lang, Sam Levine, Victoria Kielb, Zeran Fei writers Abby Yuhan, Aidan Cessor, Alex wang, Ally Gammill, Blair Penn, Ian B Henderson, Lucas Lin, Markis Cheng, Rachel Keefe, Spencer Dearman, Stacia Konow photographers Aditi Menon, Angelina Torre, Chris Low, emily kim, Jiahe Wang, Karina Mak, Phoebe Fingold, Rae Tng, Shashank Beri COVER PHOTO karina mak
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Aditi Menon, Angelina Torre, Emily Kim, Jiahe Wang, Karina Mak, Rae Tng
inside the issue
About a fifteen-minute walk northeast of the Bean is Pinched on the River, a chic Mediterranean restaurant nestled on the Chicago waterfront. Walking in from the street side, we encountered an upscale coffee bar filled with an array of bright blue and orange eclectic decor. A beachy vibe radiated within the upper space, yet as we descended the stairs, the bright interior led to a darker, more formal dine-in area. Exposed black pipes and worn brick complemented by soft ambient lighting created a cool industrial atmosphere. The restaurant’s laid-back yet stylish aura permeated through to the outside seating area that sits parallel to the river. The amped beat of the music carried via the swift breeze from the river and produced an infectious, fresh energy that subsumed the entire space. Sitting outside, we were able to enjoy our food while appreciating a beautiful spring sunset. We promptly ordered our meal within minutes of sitting down. However, we were disappointed with our front desk service as we experienced trouble with our reservation. The wait staff was knowledgeable about all menu items, however, as dinner progressed, we experienced longer waits for requests. Focusing on the food, our dishes were elegantly plated and came out promptly. The Mediterranean Wings were our appetizer. The creamy garlic aioli paired nicely with the Mediterranean rub on the wings, bringing out flavors of parsley and saffron. The wings were accompanied by a fresh, delectable side salad composed
of a sweet vinaigrette and a coating of black pepper. Our entrees consisted of Mediterranean Fish Tacos and a Chicken Shawarma Rice Bowl. The tacos were extremely flavorful, as the tilapia had a flaky yet tender texture and was seasoned in a sapid Mediterranean spice blend similar to the wings. Taking our first bites, we noticed that they were a bit heavy on the oil and lacked the right amount of chipotle mayo to balance it. However, the cilantro and cabbage slaw on top gave each taco a refreshing tartness. Our second entree, the Chicken Shawarma Rice Bowl, exploded with savory flavors and came with warm fluffy pita bread. The tangy yet spicy chicken packed a strong punch of turmeric, garlic, and cinnamon. While the chicken was a bit dry and there was an overwhelming presence of garlic, the bowl was a hearty portion that delivered a robust flavor profile. Overall, if you’re looking for a more upscale version of CAVA, Pinched on the River is the place for you. While the service was not as good as we hoped, the colorful food and lively ambiance made the experience worthwhile. Although I do not recommend this restaurant as a top Chicago spot, if you are pinched for time and need a quick bite, this restaurant is a solid riverside experience.
REVIEW
PINCHED ON THE RIVER BY RACHEL KEEFE PHOTOS BY KARINA MAK
>> NEIGHBORHOOD STREETERVILLE >> PRICES $$ >> DISHES TO TRY MEDITERRANEAN WINGS CHICKEN SHAWARMA RICE BOWL MEDITERRANEAN TACOS REVIEWS
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REVIEW
DEAR MARGARET BY AIDAN CESSOR PHOTOS BY JIAHE WANG
Ostensibly, a nondescript storefront, a minimalistic neon sign hung over the doorway, illuminating the beginning of a quaint experience of homecooked food. White linen curtains lined the windows allowing a private escape from the street. In the best way possible, this was a date at Grandma’s house. Except, Grandma was a French-Canadian that gave her ancestor’s recipes a modern twist, with some that amazed and some that needed to be improved. With only a few tables that seat more than two, Dear Margaret is designed for two guests to be enveloped in an intimate, cottage-core evening. So, what is smelt? Served delightfully in an aqua, earthenware bowl, Dear Margaret’s rendition of this tiny fish was sublime. A thin coat of breading brought the perfect crunch to the slivers of tender meat. Once thoroughly drenched in lemon juice, the smelt burst to life. The fried pickled vegetables were enjoyable but seemed to overwhelm the dish
with acidity. If one could make sour cream and onion chips into sauce, it would be the tartar sauce accompanying this dish. With an ample amount of dill, it was a great balancer to this citric plate. Rocky Road Ice Cream on a cone without the marshmallows was how I would describe the Duck Liver Mousse— rich. The mousse itself was full of this chocolatey undertones as the duck was so decadent and creamy. The mousse was topped with sunflower and pumpkin seeds brittle, adding that textual variation. Presentation-wise, I understand why they chose to top it, but the dish was much better when the crunchy bits are mixed within to provide a much-needed crunch. The two entrees we tried compounded everything that we thought of the appetizers. The duck bolognese was cooked with a nice hearty bite. The gruyere paired wonderfully with the ground duck, yet my mind could not escape this recurring theme of duck equals
chocolate. Not a bad thought and the dishes were great, but just an odd undertone that seemed ever-present. The stuffed rabbit was as tender as can be and dissolved on my tongue. The fried mushrooms that accompanied the rabbit were under-seasoned, taking away from the overall enjoyment of the dish. Even though blueberries aren’t in season, Dear Margaret somehow managed to bake the most divine Maple Blueberry Butter Tart. The notes of fruit lingered in my mouth for minutes after each bite. Sprinkled with some citric juice, the whole dish lightened up with creamy marshmallow-esque fluff. The plump peaks toasted with a torch complete the dish. Overall, I enjoyed my time at Dear Margaret. I went in for the fried smelt and left satisfied. The other dishes were still enjoyable but were outshined by my true love: smelt. If you want to take a date here for a fancy night, this is the place for you. >> NEIGHBORHOOD LAKEVIEW
>> PRICES $$$
>> DISHES TO TRY
FRIED SMELT, MAPLE BLUEBERRY BUTTER NIGHT
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REVIEW
GYURO RAMEN
BY LUCAS LIN PHOTOS BY KATRINA MAK >> NEIGHBORHOOD WEST LOOP >> PRICES $$
>> DISHES TO TRY
SIGNATURE GYUKOTSU
Tucked away on a street of Fulton Market is a unique ramen joint, decorated to be reminiscent of a busy street in Japan, with billboards and posters advertising “Shinjuku Top Dandy No. 1,” and paper lanterns hanging from the high ceiling. Music and animated conversation permeated the room, and the smell of broth reminded me how hungry I was. The difference between Gyuro and your average ramen is that instead of using the traditional pork bones as a base for the soups, Gyuro used beef bones, which is pretty hard to come by. I decided to try the Signature Gyukotsu broth, and given that the toppings at Gyuro are consistent with this beefy mentality, I chose the filet mignon version. When the dish arrived, I noticed that it was simple, but elegant. Sitting in the creamy broth were the
sliced filet mignon, menma, an egg, a sheet of seaweed, and thinly sliced scallions. The broth wasa little more gamey than any ramen broth I’ve had before. There was a refreshing edge to the flavor profile, undoubtedly due to the stronger-tasting beef bones, but it was just as creamy as a tonkotsu broth. still relatively mellow, helped by the sesame aroma oil. The toppings were well executed— standard ramen egg, seaweed, and menma, and the scallions provided a nice contrast to the heaviness of the ramen broth without being too overbearing. The all-important filet mignon was cooked to medium well but still maintained its tenderness, although it was harder to discern the subtle flavors after the strength of the broth, tare and aroma oil. Similarly to most of the toppings, the noodles were solid. The perfect combination of chewy
and bouncy, they soaked up the flavors of the soup broth with ease. The other dish we ordered was the Dog Rice, which had an impressive looking bonein short rib, but fell flat of expectations. It ended up being more expensive than the ramen, but in comparison, the flavors and complexity of the dish were rather lackluster, with the flavor being heavily dominated by a tangy sauce which covered the entire dish. I recommend Gyuro Ramen for any ramen lovers who want to try an interesting new take on the dish for a reasonable price in a chic setting, but would stay cautious about the side dishes, as the ramen is much better value for money.
REVIEWS
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>> NEIGHBORHOOD WICKER PARK >> PRICES $-$$
>> DISHES TO TRY
UBE ICE CREAM BLACK SESAME ICE CREAM
REVIEW
KURIMU BY SPENCER DEARMAN PHOTOS BY CHRIS LOW
Kurimu Ice Cream located in Wicker Park is a wonderful opportunity for any ice cream or soft serve enthusiast. Stepping inside, the bright and cheerful décor welcomes you, as the aromas of the fresh and unique ice creams invites you to explore what they have to offer. Kurimu stands out based on their variety of ever-changing unique flavors. While they still have more traditional favorites such as chocolate Supreme and Strawberry Bliss, they
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stand out through their more unconventional flavors, such as durian, Thai iced tea and even lavender with rose water. Through the Ube and Black Sesame flavors I tried, the creativity and quality of the ice cream stood out. The Ube ice cream, made from purple yams, had a deep lilac color and a creamy and slightly nutty flavor. The Black Sesame on the other hand had an earthy and slight grittiness that helped to counter the dimensionless quality that ice
cream sometimes maintains. The ice cream and soft serve are made in smaller batches with high-quality ingredients, which means that the flavors truly sing in ice cream form. Kurimu is perfect for the ice cream connoisseur, or really any beautiful summer day in Chicago, and the high quality of the ice cream will certainly not disappoint!
BLACK DOG GELATO BY SPENCER DEARMAN PHOTOS BY CHRIS LOW
Black Dog Gelato is a necessity for anyone eagerly searching for extremely delicious gelato in Chicago. Open only on weekends currently in the Ukrainian Village, Black Dog Gelato has built a name for itself through creative flavors, as well as their high quality ingredients. Black Dog Gelato offers a myriad of different flavors, constantly changing but inventive, nonetheless. For example, on the savory end, I tried the Goat Cheese Cashew Caramel, which combined the tanginess from the goat cheese, the crunch from the cashews, and the sweet and saltiness from the caramel to really create a unique flavor unlike anything I had previously tasted. On the sweeter end, the mint cookie stood out to me, and by no means was I disappointed. The mint flavor was clean and direct, and the cookie balanced the flavor out with a sweet and crunchy element that tied everything together harmoniously. A powerful tool that Black Dog Gelato maintains is the ability to combine unconventional flavors together to create something delicious. Black Dog Gelato also offers many other deserts, such as cookies and pastries which on the next visit (which is a must) I will have to explore. Overall, the wonderful and unique flavors of Black Dog Gelato are completely worth the trip to discover, and I could not recommend this gelateria more to anyone who is searching for high-quality and unique gelato.
>> NEIGHBORHOOD UKRAINIAN VILLAGE >> PRICES $
>> DISHES TO TRY
GOAT CHEESE CASHEW CARAMEL MINT COOKIE REVIEWS
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REVIEW
CAFE EL TAPATIO
BY IAN HENDERSON PHOTOS BY ADITI MENON
>> NEIGHBORHOOD WRIGLEYVILLE >> PRICES $ >> DISHES TO TRY CREMA POBLANA SOUP CHICKEN FAJITAS PECHUGA BANDERA
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Although it may be a long drive from Hyde Park, Wrigleyville’s Cafe El Tapatio packs quite a punch in comparison to many other affordable Mexican restaurants in Chicago. The worn down exterior of the establishment demonstrates its long history in the neighborhood and it has clearly been a staple for many Wrigleyville residents. The old, broken sign and the wooden doorway provide a homey and comforting feeling for everyone that sits down to dine. Entering the restaurant, we took in the bustling atmosphere as countless dishes passed on their way to hungry customers nearby. Seeing plates of enchiladas, huevos rancheros, and papas primavera landing on the tables around me, my mind started racing as I wondered what I should order. The friendliness of everyone at Cafe El Tapatio really stood out to me in comparison to the countless restaurants in Chicago that I have been to before. While looking through the menu, the waitress nicely explained some of her favorites. As a result of these friendly recommendations, we first tried the Crema Poblana Soup. I uncovered the three characteristics that separate Cafe El Tapatio from its peers: heartiness, flavor diversity, and well executed staple ingredients. The roasted poblano peppers that make up the body of this soup had clearly been charred to perfection which could be tasted through the slight bitterness that balanced the rich dish. Moreover, there were notes of garlic, allspice, thyme, and coriander throughout. Every taste of the soup provided a delicate sense of warmth at the beginning of the meal. The soup was topped with strips of homemade tortilla chips, which had a peppery bite and added a nice crispness.
The next two dishes both centered around perfectly prepared chicken, but they diverted through their cooking method. The Chicken Fajitas created quite a show when they were brought out due to the fact that the strips of grilled chicken,sauteed peppers, and onions werestill sizzling as they hit the table. Along with freshly made tortillas, this dish further solidified that Cafe El Tapatio offers a hearty meal to all guests. The side orders of rice and beans were a welcome addition, but they lacked the nice seasonings that were found in both the Crema Poblana Soup and the strips of chicken. The second chickencentric dish,Pechuga Bandera, was a slow roasted breast topped with a mole sauce. While offering more flavor complexity than the fajitas through a rich sauce and lime-marinade, there was a lack of textural diversity in the dish due to nothing being present to balance the juicy chicken and thick sauce. What is consistent throughout the experience at Cafe El Tapatio is that each dish provides classic Mexican ingredients. The homey environment of the restaurant is the necessary addition that keeps bringing customers back again and again. If you ever find yourself with an empty stomach in Wrigleyville, I highly recommend this place.
REVIEWS
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D o n ’ t F o l lo w Your Nose... BY ABBY YUHAN ILLUSTRATIONS BY ABBEY PIATT PRICE
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tinky, pungent, smelly, gross… These are all words I have heard to describe my school lunches or the waft of kimchi at a Korean restaurant. The smells of sesame oil, sour pickles, and fermented soybeans, whichI have always recognized as the aroma of my mother’s delicious cooking and a balanced diet, others have labeled as foreign, unknown, and gross. Naturally, people are attracted to pleasant smells, tastes, and sights; it is simply human nature. But smelly foods have been around for ages in almost every culture, and these smells are a product of foods with rich flavors and histories. Discounting food simply because of smells that are unfamiliar and not “pleasant,” closes the door to a variety of savors,
aromas, rich dishes, and important cuisines. Fermented foods, specifically, are often overlooked because of their sour smells. They were originally created as a way to store foods for longer. Having grown up eating Korean fermented dishes, from kimchi to doenjang, I have a full understanding of the extra umami, saltiness, and depthness of flavor that comes from something fermented. Sour and earthy flavors are an integral part of any Korean meal, and unlike normal fresh vegetables, the fermenting process creates a unique essence that can completely change the nature of a dish or meal. From a science perspective, the process of fermentation is also an edible chemical reaction. Microorganisms convert starches and sugars
into alcohol, lactic acid, and other compounds in anaerobic environments like pickling jars. The products of these reactions create the tastes that stimulate our taste buds and completely alter the flavor of the original food. And the probiotics that come from these reactions can also provide numerous health benefits. Fermented foods are better for gut health, and balance the bacteria in your stomach. Stinky foods provide us with multidimensional tastes and better health. Overlooking the pungent odor of these foods can bring benefits to your health and help you develop a more complex palate. Sacrificing a little bit of your sense of smell is worth it to try some of these tasty, healthy, and ethnic foods:
IK MCHI Kimchi is a sour, salty, and spicy pickle, originating from South Korea. It is eaten with almost every meal in the form of cabbage, pickles, radish, etc. Traditionally, kimchi was stored in earthenware pots to slow the fermentation process during the summer. There are many microorganisms within kimchi that allow for the fermentation process, and the sulfur compounds from garlic and ginger often give it a pungent smell that many would consider “stinky”.
Durian is a fruit, originating from Southeast Asia, that is known to have an overpowering and unpleasant aroma. It grows on trees in the form of large, thorny pods, and is often eaten plain, cooked, or used to flavor desserts. Many chemical, volatile compounds in the fruit are responsible for its characteristic smell.
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DURIA
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Stinky tofu is fermented tofu, originating from China, with different regions having their own variation. It is usually sold in night markets and roadside stands as snacks, typically accompanied with chili or soy sauce. The chemical reaction behind its heavy aromatics come from over 39 volatile organic compounds in stinky tofu. In order to facilitate these reactions, the tofu is prepared in a brine of fermented vegetables, meat, and milk, for as long as multiple months.
e s e e e Ch
U F O S TIN K Y T
Blu
Blue cheese is a semi-soft cheese with a sharp salty flavor, known for its pungent smell. It is made with cultures of edible mold that give the cheese its characteristic blue color, and is developed through an anaerobic fermentation process that breaks down the fat and proteins within the cheese.
O T T A N Natto is a traditional Japanese food made from fermented soybeans, often served with rice. It has a distinctive odor that is similar to pungent cheese, and is made by fermenting the soybeans with Bacillus subtilis. Natto is characterized by its pungent smell, sticky and slimy texture, and strong flavor.
M ö R M T S I R NG U S
Surströmming is lightly salted, fermented Baltic herring, originating from Sweden in the 18th century. It is typically fermented for about 6 months, and is characterized by its strong fermenting smell and acidic taste. The fish is salted just enough to prevent the herring from rotting and allowing it to ferment. It is often eaten with bread, condiments, and a beverage.
FEATURES
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The Art of Eating & Drinking by Cayla Volandes photos by Angelina Torre
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“Medium Cafe Au Lait, mostly coffee with a topper of steamed skim milk.” It’s the phrase I say every day as I grab my coffee to-go before scurrying off to class. Coffee is a means of fuel, my daily burst of caffeine to get me through the day so I don’t crash by the evening. Upon my arrival in Paris, where I studied abroad this past winter, I found myself in a different cultural coffee mode. People sat outside with their parkas on dilapidated chairs facing the sidewalk for what seemed like hours. They sipped on their cappuccinos and americanos while chatting, most likely discussing the meaning of life or analyzing what those stupid American tourists were wearing. You’ll be hard pressed to find Parisians with a coffee to-go. As a hyperactive New Yorker, I love strolling from place to place fitted with a Blank Street coffee in hand. But here, I had to adapt. “Take your time drinking your americano,” I thought to myself. For nearly the first time in my life, there was no rush — I had no obligations, little schoolwork, and plenty of time. I was in for a gastronomic shift. While I have been to Europe a handful of times with my Greek family, I have never resided there for quite so long: it was always vacationing, never just living. What struck me most on this visit was the lengthy eating experience in day to day, busy life — it was nearly the same as the types of the two hour eating experiences I have while on vacation. The meals or coffee breaks are long, slow, full of conversation and flavor, and especially never rushed. Going out to eat is an experience in Europe, one where outside obligations are no hindrance to time. It’s an art. In a rush to grab the check? Wait thirty minutes and maybe you’ll catch the waiter’s attention. But why should you be in a rush, when all the dishes are coated in rich sauces, have flavorful spice profiles, and are grilled and baked to perfection? Parisian food makes you want to dilly-dally, to waste your time away with tiny bites to prolong the experience of chewing on your moist quiche lorraine.
In Europe, food is not just a means of nutrition and energy, as it seems to be more pervasive in quotidian life in America. How could one just see that plate of Beef Bourguignon from Le Voltaire as 490 calories and 55 grams of protein? Even those not obsessed with food couldn’t. The caliber of food overall in France is higher than that of the United States, allowing the amalgamation of ingredients to pop in colorful ways. The ingredients are fresher and often locally grown from family farms just an hour away in the French countryside. In my time in Paris, I never had a bad meal or treat; this is not the case in New York or most parts of America, where I tend to stick to restaurants with high-ratings or positive word of mouth reviews. While I hit my fair share of Instagram and Tik-Tok famous boulangeries in Paris, the most rewarding pain au chocolat, brioche, and chausson au pomme were from pastry shops I stumbled across randomly—the ones in the back alleys or on nondescript street corners, the ones I had never heard of and most likely had no social media presence. As a Greek-American coming from a family who is obsessed with food, I take pride in doing my research to ensure I only eat out at delicious restaurants or cafes; nothing makes me more upset than paying for an ordinary, lackluster meal. But in Paris, I never stressed because I knew that even the obscure places would most likely be exceptional. Parisians have a different approach to the gastronomic experience than most Americans do. They take pride and pleasure in the art of eating, a craft perfected by the elimination of a time limit and culinary expertise in flavor profiles. What did I learn from my food tour of Paris, you may ask? It’s fine to meander, it’s fine to take your time, it’s fine to enjoy your meal over thoughtful conversation. Maybe now I occasionally relapse into my fast-paced coffee morning ritual, but I’ll always be dreaming about my Saint Germain americano while people watching on a creaky sidewalk chair.
FEATURES
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W H AT ' s U P W I T H Gefilte Fish?
by Blair Penn Illustrations by Abbey Piatt Price 16
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t my house, it is tradition to start any holiday or Shabbat meal with gefilte fish, or what my younger self would have simply referred to as “the Jewish fish blob” which my family refuses to stop serving. Gefilte fish is a mixture of poached, ground, and deboned fish that is usually carp, pike, or whitefish. My younger self would say that it resembles cat food, does not smell or taste much better than what someone would imagine a can of Fancy Feast would taste like. It is also mushy in texture, off-white in color, and errs on the plain side for taste. The presentation of it is even worse; it usually comes out as a circular smear on a single plate, with a small piece of a carrot and parsley on top. As much as it will forever weird out any of my non-Jewish friends that come over for Shabbat or a holiday, gefilte fish symbolizes my culture, my people, and my history. As I have grown up, and deepened my connection to my history and Jewish identity, I am glad I have learned to not just tolerate gefilte fish but also to understand and even appreciate it. Even though Gefilte fish is now a staple Ashkenazi Jewish food, its origins lie in a 700-year-old Non-Jewish German cookbook, where “gefuelten hechden” was first mentioned as poached and mashed fish flavored with herbs and seeds. It then became a popular dish for Catholics, who oftentimes gave up meat for lent. By the Middle Ages, the dish made its way into the Jewish shtetls of Eastern Europe and became a popular food to kick off Shabbat. Over generations, gefilte fish became interwoven with the traditions of more religious Jews because of the religious commandments it satisfied. On Shabbat, all types of work are forbidden such as cooking or lighting a fire but gefilte fish can easily be made in advance and served chilled. Another act that is forbidden on Shabbat is ‘borer’ or selecting meaning that more religious Jews could not eat fish that was not already deboned because the act of separating the fish from its bones and cleaning it is considered an act of “borer.” Therefore, Gefilte fish was the perfect solution. At my house, the gefilte fish is usually prepared with some black pepper on it, making it savory, which is representative of my family being of Lithuanian Jewish origin. Other Jewish communities, like Galcian Jews, might make their gefilte fish
with a slightly sweeter taste – with sugar on top. Still, both add a dash of horseradish as an accompaniment. This difference between sweet and savory gefilte fish has been dubbed by Yiddish linguist Marvin Herzog as the ‘gefilte fish line’ because this difference in palate also corresponds to the different yiddish dialects of the Jews from different communities in Europe. Gefilte fish is by no means a flashy dish – it is a gray mushy mash of fish that represents the hard reality and poverty that was life in the shtetl for Ashkenazi Jews. Jews often had to add breadcrumbs or matzo meal to make more gefilte fish to feed their entire family. The unappetizing appearance of the dish is part of the reason why my younger self was so against serving it as the first course whenever we had people over for holidays or events. It would always be served as the first course, and many people at the dinner, mostly Jews and some non Jews, would push it to the side, and not even try a bite.
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My younger self felt self conscious about this; it almost felt like a rejection. I did not want my friends to think Jews and our traditions or foods were weird or that Jewish food was not tasty– especially when their first Jewish food experience was seeing gefilte fish getting pushed to the side!
millennial Jews see gefilte fish as peasant food beneath their refined palates and do not see the cultural, historical, or even nutritional value of the dish. Gefilte fish being the appetizer to any festive Jewish meal has been a tradition that has gone back centuries, and I would hate to see it die out, especially since the dish represents the hard poverty-ridden lives of pre-war Jews in Europe – fenced off from society and not treated as citizens. Today, American Jews live a much different life with more opportunity than they had just over a century ago, and even though gefilte fish no longer represents our current reality, it is an important part of Ashkenazi history or origins that we cannot forget. Not to mention, aside from its symbolism, Gefilte fish also has some great nutritional characteristics. It is high in protein and full of many essential vitamins and minerals, and recently, the health benefits and cultural significance of the food has enticed me to start taking a bite or two of it whenever I am home. I cannot speak for how millennials will act when they set their tables, but as a proud gen Z Jew, I refuse to let the tradition of gefilte fish die out and will now serve it as every one of my festive meals, eaten or not.
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Of course, just moments later, the meal would continue with other staple Jewish foods that my family serves, such as homemade falafel, kugel, brisket, roasted chicken, and of course babka, which are all consistent crowd pleasers. Recently, I have started to notice the habit of millennial Jews instinctively sneering at the fish blob and batting it away at Jewish holidays and events. This is frankly quite worrying to me because it seems like many FEATURES
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How to plan the perfect picnic BY STACIA KONOW PHOTOS BY JIAHE WANG
Spring in Chicago is nothing short of a miracle. After months of snow, freezing temperatures, miserable wintry mixes, and overcast skies, a sunny, 70° day with a gentle breeze feels amazing. One of the best ways to celebrate the weather is a picnic. However, there is an art to planning the perfect picnic, and it starts with sandwiches. Sandwiches are one of the most versatile creations in a picnic arsenal. They are easy to make, easy to transport, and easy to eat. The most basic formula for a sandwich is protein, sauce, and produce on bread. A fancy but deceptively simple sandwich is one that features smoked salmon. Thinly slice radishes (with a mandolin if you have it) and layer over the smoked salmon–garnishing generously with dill. To the other slice of bread, add cream cheese. While I believe any soft bread will pair well with this sandwich, a ciabatta or sourdough would work nicely to balance the richness of the smoked salmon and cream cheese. This suggestion is a fan favorite–prosciutto, fig jam, and brie on a baguette. Make sure to slice open and toast the inside of the baguette for an extra crunch since the fillings make for a soft bite. Softened double cream brie pairs best with two slices of prosciutto crudo (cured) and fresh fig jam. Finally, try this classic that does not seem to fit our original formula: the egg salad sandwich. A quick tip is to soft boil the eggs for added complex flavor. Bring a pot of water to a gentle simmer and cook the eggs for exactly six minutes, then extract them from the pot and allow to cool in a bowl of ice water for at least ten minutes. This creates an amazingly jammy yolk that, when combined with garlic, a shallot, fresh dill and chives, salt, pepper, paprika, and a dash of fresh lemon juice, creates a sophisticated sauce for the eggs. The flavors come together as you transport your creation from the kitchen to the picnic blanket. To serve, toast sourdough bread and cut into slices for sandwiching or dipping into the salad.
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Apart from sandwiches, snacks are another essential for a successful picnic. One of the best is fresh fruit. Consider pairing the fruit with the cheese in your sandwiches. Along with the brie and fig pairing, peaches, plums, and apricots also complement the cheese beautifully and come into season towards the end of May–perfect for a summer picnic. Other large fruits that can be cut into cubes like watermelon, pineapple, or cantaloupe are picnic staples since they are easy to transport and eat, but they don’t always pair well with meat and cheese and are perhaps better as their own snack. Though, cantaloupe wrapped in prosciutto is an Italian classic and a lovely snack if you somehow find yourself with leftover prosciutto. Finally, no picnic would be complete without a drink. The best ones have components you can make ahead of time but can still be assembled at the picnic. This gives them a fresher taste and better presentation. A simple way to prepare a picnic drink is to make a fruit syrup and add it to chilled seltzer water. This can be achieved by either cooking down fresh fruit over gentle heat until all the juice is released or boiling fruit juice for about 10 minutes. In either case, allow to cool and then package in an old jam jar to take to the picnic. Similarly, you can make a simple syrup by combining equal parts water and sugar and cooking together for a few minutes. Add herbs like mint or violet flowers for extra flavor and color. Garnish the drinks with sliced citrus, and enjoy your refreshing drink and perfect picnic.
FEATURES
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AN ODE
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20 BITE | SPRING 2023
disgust — there is no middle ground. And for a time, it appeared the aversion for tinned fish would send it out of home pantries for good, a product slowly becoming more viewed as questionable and outdated. Slimy, Stinky, Fishy – adjectives all too familiar for poor tinned fish. People seemed to opt in for fresher selections in the grocery store, or the plethora of options from food delivery. But lately, the world has seen a resurgence of the mighty tinned fish – no longer is it seen as the pinnacle of struggle meal. Now, often deemed “hot girl food,” and the staple for the trend in tinned fish date night,” it’s made a comeback. Tinned fish is becoming an old-
IC
have, at minimum, 10 cans of tuna in my pantry. Incredibly versatile, and practically indestructible, canned tuna is a staple to my arsenal of everyday meals. Being able to fashion itself into a quick burst of protein in kimchi jjigae, an on-the-go lunch in an onigiri, or a warm comfort in the form of a diner-style tuna sandwich (with American cheese of course), canned tuna always makes its way to my plate at least once a week. however, despite my affinity for canned tuna, tinned fish exists as a divisive and polarizing item in the grocery aisle, either serving looks of eager excitement or utter
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turned-newfound sensation, seeing its revival through a variety of ranking lists, tinned fish-of-the-month clubs, and its rebrand into a product of an aesthetic lifestyle. Companies old and new have begun to capitalize on this rising trend as well, serving up aesthetic offerings in timeless vintage packaging, or color-popping modern design, ready for their products to grace the presence of social media and the attention of newer generations. While I am usually hesitant to support the wave of culinary trends , tinned fish is one that deserves its stay in the spotlight.
uns g h , r ned u o h t an fish for c n e d eciation the eyen i t r y pling de to c app ocer My o n a fanati egun sam t h e g r at the n a nd i rised ave b er th to deep I, too, h i n g s f o u ntly surp fish has f a r o . s tuna i n g o f f e een plea ty tinned a s t a p l e t i s b e i h i c a t c and have and var n g b e e n u e n t l y, hich o r , l q o w e bse air in flav i s h h a s stor u f s o is an d f fl th . It w e a l Ti n n e d e t t e , a n u l t u r a l h he s i f l c . ir ing t o f f e r l o b a l p a g h t h e r v e t h e of spann u e g t h e t e d t h r o n e s p r e s sible way i s c s e e i l c f c u re tc da n n a e r e d i f f e affordabl
culinary world, the hallmarks of many cuisines neatly packaged in vessels of tin and aluminum. More importantly, tinned fish promotes a sustainable lifestyle, driving consumption of more shelf-stable and long-lasting food. In a global food-supply chain where food waste runs rampant, a culinary trend that drives its followers to lead more environmentally conscious lifestyles is a win in my book. Now, excuse me, I have some tuna salad in the fridge to finish.
FEATURES
21
CITRUS SAVARIN CAKE BY ALEX WANG PHOTOS BY ANGELINA TORRE
W
hen I was around ten, I had to go with my mom to the dermatologist because I had strange red marks on my hands. After glancing at them for a few seconds, the dermatologist confidently told my mom that I had a case of phototoxic dermatitis, or as it’s more popularly known, Club Med dermatitis. He said that he usually saw it in bartenders but never in a child as young as me before, to my mom’s mortification. It’s caused by a combination of contact with furocoumarin, a chemical found in the skins of citrus, and exposure to sunlight. I had gotten it from squeezing too many lemons for lemonade.
prep 2½ hours
cook 30 minutes
makes 8 servings
While citrus and sunlight might not be the best combination for your hands, they are otherwise a match made in heaven. There is nothing more refreshing and delightful in the spring than a fresh lemon, lime, or grapefruit. It’s as if they contain the distillate of the sun in their bright, fresh juice and their aromatic peels. Inspired by the recent trend of citrus upside down cakes, I knew I had to try to make my own variation as a celebration of warm weather finally returning to Chicago. I chose to make a Savarin cake because I was drawn to its charmingly old-fashioned circular form. But unlike other Bundt cakes, Savarin is a yeasted cake, which means that it’s less sweet and has a stronger crumb. This makes it perfect for soaking up a fragrant rum and citrus syrup. You can use basically any kind of citrus you want for this recipe, but try to choose a few for variety with different colors and avoid using exclusively sour citrus like lemons and limes. And to avoid contracting a case of Club Med dermatitis like I did, use a citrus squeezer if you have one and wash your hands frequently. 22
BITE | SPRING 2023
GET
Equipment 9-inch bundt pan or Savarin mold Large measuring bowl Measuring cups and spoons Stand mixer or whisk, sturdy wooden spoon Silicone spatula Ingredients Savarin base: 2½ cups (12½ oz/355g) all-purpose flour ¼ cup (2oz/57g) granulated sugar 1 teaspoon instant yeast ½ teaspoon salt ¼ cup (2floz/60ml) whole milk 6 large eggs, at room temperature ¾ cup (6oz/180g) butter, softened Zest from one orange Zest from one lemon Zest from one lime Zest from one grapefruit 1 tsp vanilla extract or 1 vanilla pod Suggested assorted citrus topping: 1 Ruby Red Grapefruit, thinly sliced 1 Orange, thinly sliced 1 Blood Orange, thinly sliced 1 Pink Lemon, thinly sliced 1 Lemon, thinly sliced 2 Limes, thinly sliced Brushing liquid: 1/4 cup white rum 3/4 cup citrus syrup (see Citrus Syrup for recipe) ¼ cup Cointreau or Triple Sec
DO Citrus Syrup 1. Using a knife or mandoline, cut a few slices of the citrus of your choice as thinly as possible. You do not need to slice the entire citrus. 2. Take the remainder of the citrus (peels and all) and place them in a saucepot with enough water to cover them. Use a few tablespoons of sugar to coax some of the essential oils out of the citrus peels, but you do not need to add too much at this stage. Simmer the citrus on very gentle heat for 20 minutes until the water is infused with their flavor. Strain the syrup into a bowl and let it cool. Savarin Cake 1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit, with a rack in the middle of the oven. Butter the bundt pan or savarin mold. Add the citrus in the pattern of your choice to the bottom of the pan, making sure that there is not too much overlap. 2. In a stand mixer or a medium bowl, add the flour, sugar, yeast, and salt. Whisk together to incorporate. 3. Add the milk, eggs, vanilla, and zest and beat using the paddle attachment or a sturdy wooden spoon. It will form a very thick strong batter at first, but do not worry because the batter will loosen up later. You don’t need to beat it very long at this stage, only 5 or so minutes just to get everything mixed together.
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While beating, add the melted butter a little bit at a time until it is fully incorporated and the batter is looser, smooth and shiny. Spread the batter into the bundt pan, cover with plastic wrap, and place in a proofing drawer or warm place (between 70 and 110 degrees F) to proof for half an hour. After an hour has passed, punch the batter down using your fist (you can rub a bit of butter on your hand to prevent sticking). Preheat the oven to 350 F. Return the cake to the proofing drawer or warm spot and let it rise for another hour, or at least until the batter has risen up about ¾ of the way up the sides of the pan. Remove the plastic wrap and bake in the oven for 24-26 minutes, or until the savarin is golden brown on the outside and inside edges and a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean. Let the cake rest in the bundt pan for 10 minutes. While the cake is resting, combine the white rum, Cointreau, and ¾ cup of the citrus syrup in a bowl and stir to combine. Adjust seasoning with fresh lime juice and sugar if needed. Turn the cake out of the bundt pan onto a serving dish. Brush the cake generously with the citrus syrup. Slice and serve warm with whipped cream. FEATURES
23
NO KNEAD FOCCACIA BY ALLY GAMMILL
PHOTOS BY RAE TNG
Guess what?! Great bread doesn’t need to be the long, labored process most people think it is. This quick focaccia recipe is an adaptation of Bon Appetit's “No-Knead Focaccia'' that is perfect for busy college students. What's more, this base recipe has endless riff– throw some pizza toppings on the dough before baking for grandma-style pizza or turn the baked product into a sandwich. Look to the end of the recipe for my suggestion for a yummy prosciutto sando! Don’t hesitate to impress your friends and fill your life with some carby goodness.
prep cook makes
20 minutes (plus 4 ½ hrs rising) 20-30 minutes 10-12 servings
DO 1.
2.
GET 1 ¼ oz envelope active dry yeast (about 2¼ tsp) 2 tsp honey 5 cups (625 g) all-purpose flour 1 tbsp Morton kosher salt (see note) 6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for hands 1 tbsp unsalted butter for the pan
3. 4.
Notes: 1. Standard measurements for salt are tricky because different salts come in different weights. Make sure to look up the conversion 5. for your specific salt to the equivalent of 1 Tbsp. Morton kosher. 2. To see if the dough is ready, poke it with your finger. It should spring back slowly, leaving a small visible indentation. If it springs back quickly, the dough isn’t ready.
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Whisk one ¼-oz. envelope active dry yeast (about 2¼ tsp.), 2 tsp. honey, and 2½ cups lukewarm water in a medium bowl, and let sit for 5 minutes (this step is to ensure your yeast is still alive—after sitting it should look bubbly and creamy). Add 5 cups of all-purpose flour and 1 Tbsp. Morton kosher salt and mix with a rubber spatula until a shaggy dough forms. Use your hands to ensure no dry spots remain, but do not overmix. Pour 4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil into your biggest bowl. Transfer dough to bowl and turn to coat in oil. Cover with plastic wrap or a plate and let it rise at room temperature until doubled in size, 3–4 hours. Generously butter a 13x9" baking pan (a 18x13" rimmed baking sheet will also work but will yield a focaccia that's thinner and crispier, but isn’t ideal for sandwiches). Pour 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil into center of pan. Put some oil on your hands and, keeping the dough in the bowl, gather up edges of dough farthest from you and lift up and over into center of bowl. Give the bowl a quarter turn and repeat process (think of it as just a lift and drop process—no need to be super delicate). Do this two more times; you want to deflate dough while you form it into a rough ball. Transfer dough to prepared pan and turn dough to coat it in oil. Let rise, uncovered, in a dry, warm spot until doubled in size, at least 1½ hours and up to 4 hours. Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 450°. Make sure dough is ready (see note). Oil your hands. Gently stretch out dough to fill the focaccia to the edges of the pan. Dimple focaccia all over with your fingers, creating very deep depressions in the dough (make sure to reach your fingers all the way to the bottom of the pan). Drizzle with remaining 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Bake focaccia until is golden brown all over, 20–30 minutes.
CRISPY PROSCIUTTO SANDWICH prep cook makes
10 minutes 7 minutes 1 servings
GET 4x4 inch piece of focaccia 1 garlic clove, sliced 2-3 slices of prosciutto 2-3 slices of fresh mozzarella cheese 1 handful of arugula 3-4 basil leaves 1 drizzle of balsamic reduction
DO 1. 2.
3. 4.
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Cut focaccia in half lengthwise with a serrated knife. Heat one tablespoon of olive oil in a medium skillet (big enough to fit both slices of focaccia) over medium-high heat. Add slices of garlic and let sizzle for about a minute, swirling them around the pan. Put focaccia cut side down in the pan on the garlicky olive oil. Toast until golden brown. Once toasted, remove focaccia slices from pan. Set aside. In the same skillet, add a tablespoon more of oil, let heat, and lay slices of prosciutto and let cook, like bacon, until crispy. Remove from pan and set on a plate with a paper towel. Assemble sandwich: layer the handful of arugula, slices of mozzarella, crispy pieces of prosciutto, basil leaves, and top with a drizzle of balsamic reduction before topping with other piece of toasted focaccia..
recipes
25
PAN FRIED SALMON BY ARUSHI MUKHERJEE PHOTOS BY EMILY KIM
prep 15 minutes
cook 10 minutes makes 2 servings
GET
2 salmon filets 2 tbsp lemon juice 4 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp paprika 1 tbsp freshly ground black pepper Salt to taste
In my house, oven-roasted salmon is an all-weather staple, served both piping hot in the winter and lighter fare on Texan summer nights. Salmon has become part of the feeling of home for me, and it was one of the recipes I made sure to have under my belt before coming to college. As I began to learn what cooking in college meant, I realized that sometimes turning on the whole oven for one person’s meal isn’t worth it. So, I adapted my dad’s recipe for the salmon I crave to be fit for the single person’s kitchen. It helps to bridge the distance between Dallas and Chicago for the duration of a meal, and it never fails to impress friends over for dinner.
The short marination period before cooking the fish produces a soft, flaky texture and allows the flavors to fully seep into the salmon. Keeping the skin on also provides great textural contrast, and it helps keep the natural oils of the fish for a moist finished product. Taking the salmon off the heat at the right time is an integral part of the recipe as well. This is a versatile recipe: it can serve as a quick weeknight dinner or an easy but stunning centerpiece at your next dinner party.
DO 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
Squeeze 1 tbsp of lemon juice on each salmon filet Drizzle 1 tbsp of olive oil over each filet as well and let sit for 10 minutes Add 1 tbsp olive oil to a pan and turn onto medium low heat Put marinated fish skin side down Let cook uncovered for 6 minutes Flip salmon and cover - Let cook for 4-5 additional minutes Once fish turns lighter pink in color consistently throughout, take off heat and let rest Serve and enjoy!
Serving suggestions: 1. Paired with sweet green salad tossed in light vinaigrette (olive oil, lemon juice, seasonings). 2. Over rice with roasted vegetables. 3. Flaked apart and tossed into a chopped salad or warm vegetable mix. 26 BITE | SPRING 2023
recipes
27
28 bite | winter 2020