key a magazine for travelers by travelers • march/april 2014
ghana
Sessimé at the Alliance Française p. 10
Ghana’s Paragliding Festival p. 13
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three top trips three different ways of exploring Ghana p. 5
Key Ghana • volume 14 / 2014
march & april contents
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We introduce you to three different ways of exploring Ghana –but don’t stop there.
From fine dining to street food in Accra
Three top trips
8
Coming events
Discover Accra’s music, performing arts, galleries, sports etc. 16
map
Explore Accra. This travel map includes streets & locations 19
beyond Accra
This month we explore the Upper East Region of Ghana 22
Entertainment index
Discover Accra’s many venues for music, film & theater
Dining index 26
Shopping index Shop at neighborhood markets to unique boutiques 28
Accommodation index Luxury to budget hotels and holiday rentals 30
Transportation index
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Congolese Lelo performs at the Alliance Française p.11
Health Talk
Hang Up & Keep Up Delta Air lines partners with the Red Cross to control malaria by Stephanie peng
On Feb 11, 2014, Delta Air Lines announced their partnership with the Ghana Red Cross Society to fund and implement a year-long malaria prevention campaign in four districts in the Greater Accra and Upper East Regions. Delta will make a monetary donation to the Ghana Red Cross to purchase 4000 long lasting insecticide nets. Volunteers from Delta and the Ghana Red Cross will distribute these mosquito nets to pregnant women and families with children under five years of age. Through this project, they hope to help reduce under-five mortality in Ghana. Since Delta, the only US carrier that flies direct to the US from Accra, launched its first nonstop flight between Accra and New York in December 2006, it has seen continuous success in Ghana, and Africa. It has transported over 3.7 million passengers on its African services, which cover Accra, Dakar, Johannesburg, Lagos, and Monrovia and have invested in advanced cabin equipment and more comfortable facilities in the airport terminal. Delta is always committed to positively impacting the communities where it operates, and plans to continue this through the Hang Up and Keep Up Campaign. 4
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Long lasting insecticide nets LLINs are nets treated in the factory with an insecticide incorporated into the net fabric which makes the insecticide last for up to five years, even after repeated washings.
3 Clockwise from top: Cape Coast Castle, traditional African drumming, Aburi wood carvings, Artists Alliance Gallery & Kakum National Park.
Top Trips With all there is to see and do, you can stay and play in and around Accra for as long as you’d like. Here are ideas for a few two- or three-day trips.
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2 days of birding Ghana is a bird watcher’s paradise with approximately 676 of Africa’s 1300 species of birds, a staggering figure considering Ghana occupies only 1.25% of Africa’s total land mass. From left: Brown Cheek hornbill, Blue headed bee eager
DAy one: Kakum Forest's canopy walk way (p.18) is 40 meters above rainforest floor. See the forest canopy at eye level where jewels are exposed: Rosy Bee-eaters, Black Casqued Hornbill, Malimbes, Rufous-sided Broadbill, Narrow-tailed Starling, Senegal Parrot & so many more. Afterwards treat yourself to lunch at Hans Cottage, which overlooks a crocodile pond.
3 day heritage Path
From left: Kwame Nkrumah Memorial, Independence Square, Cape Coast Castle, Elmina Fishing Harbor
DAy one: See Independence Square, the Arts & Crafts Centre and the Kwame Nkrumah Mausoleum & Museum, all on the oceanfront. Take a lunch break at the National Museum. Continue with a visit to the W.E.B. Dubois Center for Pan Africanism. (p.16)
3 days of Arts & Craft From left: Artists Alliance Gallery, Aburi Carving Center.
DAy One: Experience the Arts & Crafts Centre, Ghana’s biggest craft market. Visit the Precious Minerals and Mining Company (PMMC), gold and diamonds in traditonal Ghanaian designs or customized. Lunch at Tribes Restaurant at the Afia Beach Resort, stop into the gallery to see their collection of West African artefacts. In the afternoon visit the Artists Alliance Gallery. Head further east to Teshie to the Kane Kwei Carpentry Works to admire hand sculpted wooden coffins featured by National Geographic. (p.16) 6
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DAy two: Atiwa Forest (p.18). Be dazzled by the number of highly rated birds. Many serious birders have voted this forest the best. The list of notable birds include: Blue-headed Bee-eaters, Green Twinspot, Grey-headed and Red-tailed Bristlebills & the Olive-green Camaroptera. birding tip: BirdLife In ternational organizes a free monthly bird-walk the last Saturday of every month at sites in and around Accra. Contact: Tel: 0234 237 732 or taymida@yahoo.co.uk
DAy two: Visit Cape Coast Castle and its museum (p.18), a concrete testimony of the world’s tragic slave trade. Stop for lunch at the Baobab House. Take drumming lessons at the castle. Go out for evening drinks at the Oasis and enjoy traditional dancing and drumming. DAy three:
Visit the Elmina Castle and Fort Jago. (p.18) After lunch, walk through the historical town of Elmina and its colorful fishing harbor. Spend the afternoon cooling off in a pool at one of Elmina’s beautiful Resorts.
DAy Two: Head north to the Aburi Wood Carving Center (p.18). Find something you like or ask for something to be custom-made. While there, head to Mampong Centre for Scientific Research into Plant Medicine & take a stroll through Aburi Botanical Gardens. On the road back stop at the Wild Gecko for unique handicrafts.
DAy three:
Enjoy the fast pace of Makola Market dominated by women traders. Find everything including: seamstresses to sew traditional clothing, glass beads & shea butter. Head to Oxford street, visit Woodin Boutique or DaViva for some amazing fabric and Globalmamas for handmade crafts. g h a n a k e y. c o m
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MARc h - a p r i l
coming events
Busua Beach, Takoradi - Three days and two nights of live music and parties, featuring international and local musicians. Access to the festival is Free, parties range from Gh¢15 - Gh¢25 for the weekend.
Paragliding festival
Francophone Film Festival
April 18-21
March 20-29
Three days of spectacular aerial fun, ceremony and music. Tandem paraglider pilots gather from around the world to fly for and with local Ghanaians & visitors. Kwahu Tafo 8
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Discover the best of the Francophone cinema during the second edition of this festival. 10 feature films, 2 animations and 10 short Ghanaian movies. Alliance Française Accra
Paroles de femmes March 7
Part a series of events celebrating International Women’s day, this exhibition features paintings, photography, installations and illustrations Alliance Française Accra
events - art on flour bags in order to attract customers to buy video cassettes of foreign films and to advertise their video centres. This is a rare opportunity to see these pieces! Until April 23, Free, Alliance Française
April
Kis Keya
art March
5 Exhibition - Du Bois in our time a landmark exhibition that focuses on the intersection of art and the major issues of our time, centered on the legacy of W.E.B. Du Bois and the causes he championed. Until 13 April W.E.B. Du Bois Centre
Part a series of events celebrating International Women’s Day. This exhibition features paintings, photography, installations and illustrations by visual artists Kis Keya, Sena Ahadji and Zohra Opoku. Until March 18, Alliance Française.
a Hand painted film posters from the 1980s Exhibition launch at 6pm A private collection of hand painted movie posters by Ghanaian artists belonging to Joseph Oduro-Frimpong. These huge posters were created
5 Each week one photograph A photographic interchange between Simone Gilges in Berlin and Mamadou Gomis in Dakar. The two have been exchanging a photo each week via internet since 2009. Each photo is a response to the prior one sent, addressing everyday life, rituals of public and private life and the artistic work of both photographers. The developed references bring the other side closer to one’s own and respectively the familiar is made foreign. Goethe Institut
7 Paroles de femmes Exhibition launch at 6pm Alliance Française Liberation Link, Airport Area Tel: 0302 77 31 34 / afaccra.com W.E.B. Du Bois Memorial Centre, off 2nd Circular Road Cantonment, Tel: 030 277 6502 Goethe-Institut 30 Kakramadu Rd (next to NAFTI ) Cantonments Tel: 0302 779 769 / goethe.de g h a n a k e y. c o m 9
events - music
music & DANCE
Asa Baako Music and Dance Festival
March Diana Bada & D’Expressions
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Ghanaian culture - bringing everyone together into one uplifting dance!” - M3NSA, UK/Ghanaian Hip-Hop artist Cheaper if you book in advance. Air Conditioned buses are available from Accra to take you direct to and from the festival. Busua Beach, Takoradi Access to the festival is Free, parties range from 15Gh¢ - 25Gh¢, asabaako.com
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Mouron
an artistic residency at the Alliance. 10Gh¢, 5Gh¢ for AF students. Free for children under 12. Alliance Française, 8pm
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Performing Afro Soul – a blend of Hip Hop, Jazz and Reggae music, Diana was a part of MTVBase/ Zain Advance Warning in 2008, part of the Gimme Shot Crew tour in Europe and the lead vocalist for the Tripanation Band. Cae will open this concert showcasing a tribute to iconic musician and activist Nina Simone. Cae will also be conducting 10
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Asa Baako Music and Dance Festival Named by UK’s largest newspaper, as one of “The best Three African Music Festivals for 2014”. Three days and two nights of live music and parties, featuring international and local musicians, DJs and artists. Enjoy Azonto, Highlife, Salsa, Kwaito, Afrobeats, Dancehall, Coupe Decale, Hip-Hop and House. Past performers include; E.L., Efya, FoKN Bois, Arc Djebe, Lawmaker, DJ Bbrave, DJ Juls, Rita Ray and T-Roy (Broadcite Music). “We’ve all been waiting for Asa Baako - a truly magical and uplifting festival experience that has its own quirky style rooted in
Her pure and powerful renditions penetrate our hearts in an unforgettable way. Accompanied by her pianist Terry Truck, Mouron is able to give modern and artistic coherence to the songs of the immense repertoire of French chanson such as Edith Piaf, Jacques Brel and Serge Gainsbourg. 10 Gh¢, 5 Gh¢ for AF students. Free for children under 12. Alliance Française, 7pm
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Sessimé (Bénin) The new Afropop-rock music star, raw energy on stage, the young ambassador of Beninois culture, Sessimé has been
events - music performing on stages in Africa and Europe her album Wazakoua. Awarded Best Discovery Female Artist at the Kora Music Awards and finalist of the RFI-France 24 Discovery Award 2013. Awaiting the release of her next album, she will perform songs from her rich repertoire in Fon, Yoruba, Ewe and French. Her concert will be opened by DJ BBRAVE, the Togolese rapper Elom 20CE and Lelo from Pointe-Noire, Congo who will perform Saï music, a subtle blend of soukous and R&B. Free. Alliance Française, 6pm
j
Paillote Takpekpe
case Northern traditional Music and Dance pieces while Accra based Wuza Wuza Dance Company will perform contemporary dance with elements of Northern traditional dances. Fashion inspired by Northern traditional fabrics by Allan David, Nat Nuno and Comfort Zone will also be on display. Alliance Française 2 Gh¢, 1 Gh¢ for AF students & members, free for children under 12.
April
4 Jam with Steve Ellery Prior to doing his The Sports Concert, on April 12, Steve will jam on his sax with other musicians. Free. Goethe Institut, 7:30pm e The Sports Concert with Steve Ellery Steve will lead the National Symphony Orchestra in
The Institute for Music and Development will present a night of traditional and contemporary arts from Northern Ghana. Fresh from a performance tour in Denmark, Youth Home Cultural Group from Tamale will show-
an exciting sports themed concert, with the entire 2nd half of the concert dedicated to music from football. VIP: 70Gh¢ Adult: 35Gh¢, Student: 10Gh¢. Tel: 024-4687915, National Theatre, 7:30-10pm
h Live in Accra Jazz Festival Until May 3 A week of live concerts and festivities relating to Jazz at different venues around Accra, along with visual art exhibitions, movie screenings, workshops for technicians in the performing arts and masterclasses for musicians. Confirmed artists include Nicolas Genest & Dela Botri and Franco Na Biso. Alliance Française
Steve Ellery and the National Symphony Orchestra
Alliance Française Liberation Link, Airport Area Tel: 0302 77 31 34 / afaccra.com Goethe-Institut 30 Kakramadu Rd (next to NAFTI ) Cantonments, Tel: 0302779769 / goethe.de National Theater of Ghana South Liberia Rd, Victoriaborg district Tel: 0244272884 g h a n a k e y. c o m 1 1
events - Theater
theater & spoken word March
1 Women’s Oxymoron, Men’s Mistake Written and directed by Eyram Evans Adokor This play tells an intriguing and thought provoking story that unfolds with lots of humor. After a break from the seminary, Father Ronnie wants to get back together with Vic. Frank is getting married to two sisters. Mercy finds comfort with her rival. Peter is broken by the wrath of a woman’s scorn. Jonas is getting married to Aba on the day his true lover arrives. A Church Priest asks God to give him a last chance with one bottle in a drinking bar. Come early to enjoy the Eco-Flea Market and grilled food. Goethe Institut, 5:30 pm
“Our Voices: Breaking Boundaries, Creating Change” Tour In order to impact social change, envision healthier communities and create the next generation of
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trailblazers, our stories must be told and we collectively must be heard! Through a dynamic group of women speakers including: TV presenter and fashion designer, Benny Bonsu; Country Manager of Microsoft Ghana, Otema Yirenkyi; classical singer & TV presenter, Kokui Selormey; founder of Lila’s Childcare Foundation, Lila Macqueen; we’ll explore the voices of women who are leading the way in Ghana. Share in the story and be a part of the dialogue... many voices create one song! Free Alliance Française, 4-8pm
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Meet the writers Join Kinna Likimani as she facilitates thought provoking conversations and book readings with writers Alba Simprim, Boakyewaa Glover and Yewande Omotoso. Free Alliance Française, 7pm
ty Bukom Dance/ Drama performance This drama choreographed by Ghana’s renowned choreographer and academician Professor F.Nii Yartey, outlines most of the social vices facing the deprived communities. 25Gh¢ Tel: 0266000435, National Theatre, 7pm
j Ghana Voices Series Every last Wednesday of the month, starting March 26. The first reading of 2014, will by novelist Empi Baryeh. Born in Liberia and educated in Cameroon, Ghana, Botswana and the U.S., Empi has been writing since the age of thirteen, and her focus is on multicultural romance stories. Her novel, Most Eligible Bachelor (Evernight Publishing, 2012) was followed by Chancing Faith (Black Opal Books, 2012). Empi is currently working on sequels to both books. This event offers the opportunity to meet and interact with the writer. There will be a short discussion session after the readings. Autographed copies of the books will be on sale. Goethe Institute, 7 pm
x Ehalakasa poetry readings A celebration of spoken word performance poetry with music. Ehalakasa is a straight talk, street philosophy, poetry with music performance. Eha means song in Ewe, La mean sing in
events - outdoors Ga Damgbe and Kasa means talk in Akan (Twi). These separate words are simply combined to form Ehalakasa. Nubuke Foundation, 6 pm
April
4 Ghana Believe Tour
Thirty-one year old American, award-winning poet, certified Language arts teacher and Hip-Hop artist Dorian “Paul D” Rogers currently based in Abu Dhabi will give educational workshops, lectures, volunteer at local schools and perform with selected Ehalakasa poets as part of a West African tour. Paul D has shared the stage with Amiri Baraka, Nikki Giovanni, and Stevie Wonder to name a few. To register for
the educational workshop session contact: ehalakasa@gmail.com Workshop: 10am -noon Event: 7pm, 5Gh¢, 2Gh¢ for AF students & members, children under 12, free. Alliance Française
k Ehalakasa poetry readings A celebration of spoken word performance poetry with music. Nubuke Foundation, 6 pm
Alliance Française Liberation Link, Airport Area, Tel: 0302773134 / afaccra.com Goethe-Institut 30 Kakramadu Rd (next to NAFTI ) Cantonments, Tel: 0302779769 / goethe.de Nubuke Foundation 7 Adamafio Close, East Legon, Tel: 0289102163 / nubukefoundation.org
outdoors April
open to solo pilots as well; and boasts consistent flying conditions that begin around mid morning and remain soarable until late in the day. The thermals
are consistently large and mild and offer a fantastic flying opportunity. ghanaparagliding.com Nkakaw, on the Accra to Kumasi Road
o-s Paragliding Festival In just a few short years, the Ghana Paragliding Festival has become an integral part of the annual Easter celebrations in Ghana. The festival attracts both Ghanaians and foreigners alike for more than 3 days of spectacular aerial fun, ceremony and music. For the last 6 years, tandem paraglider pilots have gathered from around the world to fly local Ghanaian spectators and foreign visitors. The festival is g h a n a k e y. c o m 1 3
events - FIlm
Poor Us
film March Femmes du Caire Yoursry Nasrallah, 2010, Egypt, 135 min. Drama. Alliance Française, 7pm
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Two Days in Paris by Julie Delpy, 2007, France, 96 min. Comedy. Alliance Française, 7pm
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Poor Us Ben Lewis, 58 min An Animated History of Poverty. From the Neolithic Age, this film takes us through the changing world of poverty. This fantasy trip into the past, combined with interviews with experts, helps us to understand the history of poverty and how it effects us today. Free, Goethe Institut, 7pm
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Les Tontons Flingeurs Georges Lautner, France, 112min. A french classic. Alliance Française, 7pm
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a-; Second Edition of the Francophone Film Festival Discover the best of the francophone cinema during the second edition of this festival. 10 feature films, 2 animations and 10 short Ghanaian movies in competition to win the award for the best short film. There will be an opportunity to meet two film directors and take part in a scriptwriting workshop (to register email: stephanie. soleansky@diplomatie.gouv.fr) TV3, NAFTI, Alliance française (Accra and Kumasi)
are leasing Mali’s land in order to turn large areas into agribusiness farms. Land Rush focuses on an idealistic American who aims to develop a sugar plantation that he hopes will convert subsistence farmers into modern cash-crop producers. Set against the backdrop of a country spiraling out of control. Free, Goethe Institut, 7pm
April Radiostars Romain Levy, 2012, France, 100 min. Comedy Alliance Française, 7pm
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Demonlover Olivier Assayas, 2002, France, 120 min. Thriller Alliance Française, 7pm
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Stealing Africa Switzerland/UK/USA/ Zambia 2012, Christoffer Guldbrandsen, 58 min Rüschlikon a village in Switzerland receives more tax revenue than it can use, largely because of one resident, Ivan Glasen-
q Land Rush Mali 2012, Hugo Berkeley and Osvalde Lewat, 58 min. Seventy-five per cent of Mali’s population are farmers, but rich, land-hungry nations like China and Saudi Arabia
k
events - misc berg, CEO of Glencore, whose copper mines in Zambia generate huge profits, while 60 per cent of the Zambian population lives on less than $1 a day and 80 per cent are unemployed. Based on
original research into public documents, the film describes the tax system employed by multinational companies in Africa. Free, Goethe Institut, 7pm
u Mariage à Mendoza Edouard Deluc, 2013, France/Argentina, 94 min. Comedy drama. Alliance Française, 7pm Viva Riva, Djo Tunda Wa Munga, (DRC), 2010, 98 min. Thriller. Alliance Française, 7pm
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Misc March
including: the Miss & Mister Alliance Pageant, a fashion show, and a surprise performance. Students will also get to dance to the tunes of DJ BBrave. 5 Gh¢, 2 Gh¢ for AF students & members, children under 12, free. Alliance Française, 7pm Networking event For business people and graduated bilingual Ghanaian. Booths include: Francophone companies, brands promoting French/ Francophone trade and job opportunities. Bring your CV! Alliance Française, 10am - 3pm
Atomic Africa Deutschland 2013, Marcel Kolvenbach, 89 min Countries like Uganda can only produce a quarter of the energy needed, leading to daily power cuts with disastrous impact on the economy. Companies like French nuclear giant, Areva, lobby aggressively for more power plants in Africa. But how safe are these new reactors? And what do they mean for the local population? Free, Goethe Institut, 7pm
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Grande Kermesse de la Francophonie Explore various Francophone countries and their culture with a variety of traditional and modern displays of fashion, music, food, drink, crafts and literature. Alliance Française, 10am - 5pm
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Students’ Ball – Miss & Mister Alliance Pageant Entertainment and performances
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April Flea Market & German Cake Tasting party Come together, chat with friends and enjoy a variety of cakes. Free, Goethe Institut
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Alliance Française Cine-club Liberation Link, Airport Area Tel: 0302 77 31 34 / afaccra.com 2Ghc / 1Ghc for AF students and members, Children under 12 free. Goethe-Institut 30 Kakramadu Rd (next to NAFTI ) Cantonments Tel: 0302 779 769 / goethe.de NAFTI 5th Link Rd Cantonments Tel: 0302 777610 / nafti.edu.gh g h a n a k e y. c o m
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beyond Accra Beyond Accra discover unique wildlife, historical monuments and so much more.
Wildlife Shai Hills Resource Reserve
The closest wildlife park to Accra. The vegetation of Shai Hills is dry, coastal evergreen savannah and 40% of the park is made up of hills covered with dry forest. Major wildlife to be seen include olive baboons, green monkeys, kobs and bushbucks, as well as monitor lizards, pythons and snakes. Bird lovers will also find many bird species including the Senegal Parrot, Grey
Plantain Eater, Hornbill, Red Northern Bishop and Violet Turaco and many more. Don’t miss a to visit to one of the three caves, Adwuku, Sayu or Hiewey Mole National Park
Mole is about a 1 hour drive from Tamale. Tamale is about 600 km from Accra (a 13 hour bus ride, or a 1 hour 20 min plane ride) The largest of its kind in Ghana. Its savannah woodland and forested areas cover a staggering
space which measures just less than 5000 square kilometers. You can expect to see antelope, elephants, baboons, warthogs, buffalo, hyenas and if you’re very lucky, a leopard. Lions have recently been re-introduced to the park as well. There are also more than 250 species of birds to enjoy. The park has a simple motel with a pool and restaurant located directly above the elephants’ bathing pond. g h a n a k e y. c o m
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p e B e yo rE n a s d Acc te rn ra re gio n Up
Upper East Region
This region is the gateway to Ghana from Burkina Faso, and the traditional crossroad for the trans-Saharan trade routes. Bolgatanga (or ‘Bolga’ as it is known locally) is the capital of the region and has always been a meeting point for traders from Mali and Burkina Faso on their way south to Tamale and the rest of Ghana.
Bolgatanga Market
This market is renowned for its straw hats, baskets, leather and metal goods, traditional clothing and is part of the historic transSaharan trade routes. Enjoy the lively atmosphere, and a chat with the traders.
which are 10km from the city of Bolgatanga. Hear their strange, ghostly whistling sounds during November and December, when the harmattan wind blows off the Sahara through the Northern Region.
Bolgatanga Museum
Displays in this little Bolgatanga museum include music, hunting, jewelery, weaponry, and chief’s possessions. Beautiful carved darkwood stools and a bronze ancestor vase are highlights of this collection.
Tongo Whistling Rocks
A dramatic presence is created by these rocks 20
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Village of Sirigu
A scenic village in a fairytale savannah landscape with beautiful, traditionally decorated houses, trees, and farmlands. It is worth visiting for the unique architecture. Twelve years ago a group of Sirigu village women formed an organization called the Sirigu Women’s Organization of Pottery and Art (SWOPA) to preserve
their art and culture. Paga Town
A 45-minute drive from Bolga, Paga offers a vivid insight into the heritage of the Trans Atlantic Slave Trade, and the lives of captives on the 400-mile march to the South. A slave camp near the sacred crocodile pond provides evidence of the harsh realities of the captives. Holes dug in rocks, which served, as drinking troughs and eating bowls are very visible, as are slabs of rocks that served as auction blocks and graves. Paga Crocodile Pond
It is believed that each native of Paga has a
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B u r k in
n ra gio Acc r e nd rn yo t e Be Eas r pe
Up
Upper East Region
Ko
o f a so corresponding crocodile representing their soul. Paga Bawku The reptiles are normally Zebila Tumu enticed out of the pond Navrongo sirigu Gbele Game Garu by the whistling of Bolgatanga Navarango Production to the caretaker and the Cathedral go Tongo brandishingReserve of a fowl, which the crocodiles Nakpaduri quickly snatch with Gambaga Wulugu their snouts. If you are courageous, you can sit on, or hold the beast’s tail for a good camera pose. Mole The caretaker charges National Key Park Guide a fee for the fowl and basic Swab Fast Food interpretation. STAY lp
aw
n
Mama’s Place 7 rooms Bolgatanga Tel: +233 208375963 mamasplace. getafricaonline.com
Navrongo Cathedral
Thirty minutes northwest of Bolgatanga is Navrongo. The key attraction in this town is the architecturally unique Catholic Cathedral. Also Known as Our Lady of Seven Sorrows. It was built in 1906 and is believed to be the last remaining Mud cathedral. Entirely built of mud bricks, and plastered with mud mortar. The floor is made of the traditional compacted gravel, mixed with cowdung and dawadawa.
Sands Garden Hotel Simple, clean rooms, friendly management. Rates include breakfast. Bolgatanga sandgardenshotel@ yahoo.com Tel: +233 38 2023464 SWOPA guesthouse Five round rooms, decorated in the traditional Sirigu style, with beautiful frescos in relief inside. Sirigu www.swopa.org Tel: + 233-72-23432
Wuriyanga Mosque
This ancient mosque, southeast of Bawku, was built by Muslim missionaries. It showcases typical Sudanese architecture from about 300 years ago.
EAT & D RI N K
Sand Gardens Nice outside courtyard complete with a BBQ Bolgatanga
Western favorites such as pizza & burgers, as well as Indian and Chinese dishes. Bolgatanga, where the main road to Navrongo/ Paga meets Bazaar Road
Kpalimé
VIS IT
Bolgatanga Market Bolgatanga
Bolgatanga Museum Bolgatanga
Navrongo Cathedral Navrongo
Paga Crocodile Pond Paga
Sirigu Women’s Organization of Pottery and Art Sirigu
Tongo Whistling Rocks Tongo
Wuriyanga Mosque Southeast of Bawku
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Entertainment
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Jokers Labadi Road, La Tel: 024 4370752
Not very far from La Beach, this is a very popular place to play pool, tourists & locals meet here to have a drink and a game.
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Champs next to Paloma Hotel, Kokolemle Tel: (0) 240 959 406
Was Champs, then was Lexington now is Champs again. Football, beer and pizza on Wednesdays, Quiz night on Thursdays, Karaoke on Fridays, Salsa on Saturdays.
Firefly Lounge Bar
nightlife Firefly Lounge Bar 11th Lane, Osu Tel: 030 277 7818
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Glammy and chic you would be forgiven to think that you’ve arrived in a high-end New York or London cocktail bar. Cool decor, metal and exposed brick, extensive drink selection, and DJs. Food is available.
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Aphrodisiac 35 Osu Badu Street, Dzorwulu Tel: 0302 766 738
DJs serve a mix of hip hop and R&B, hip life, garage and techno. Ladies night on Thursdays. Fridays DJ Flava Nite open from 11pm - 6am
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+233 jazz bar & grill 75 Ring Rd, North Ridge Tel: 0244 276 027
Ghana’s premiere jazz and live music club. Open until 4 am on week-ends
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Cuzzy Bro Troas St, Osu Tel: 026 608 6003
Formally known as the Irish Pub, this is Ghana’s newest family venue, revamped with a whole new menu, outdoor garden bar, cocktail lounge and live entertainment. Duplex 2nd Kuku close off oxford st, Osu
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Next Door Beach Resort Beach Road, Teshie (opposite the Military Academy) Tel: 024 4318697
Live music on weekends, Sunday afternoons catch some traditional song and dance performances. The one2one Bar Mövenpick Hotel, Central
A chic cocktail bar where you can escape, socialize and launch your evening in style to the sound of African lounge music or live performances. The Republic Bar & Grill 3rd Lane Kuku Hill, Osu Tel: 024 631 4044
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This place has quickly become the hot spot in Accra. Like the every-week-kind-of-spot to chill, catch up with friends, and listen to some cool music over beer and food. They have live music every Wednesday.
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Robi’s Dutch Pub Dade walkstreet 14, Labone Tel: 0242201087
The only authentic Dutch pub in Ghana, with Dutch cuisine, beer, music and ambiance.
film Silverbird Cinema First Floor, Shop 39, Accra Mall, Tetteh Quashie Interchange Tel: 021 823270-4
silverbirdghana.com
arts & culture Goethe-Institut 30 Kakramadu Rd, Cantonments Tel: 0302 779 769
Regularly show films on Thursdays. www. goethe.de
Drama / music Alliance Française Accra Liberation Link - Airport Residential Tel: 0302 773 134
A large producer of cultural events in Accra, including live music, poetry readings, theater, art exhibits and much more, that reflect the diversity and the quality of France and Africa’s artistic offer. afaccra.com National Theatre of Ghana South Liberia Road, Central Tel: 0244272884
This elegant and imposing theater is the hub of music and theater in Accra. It houses The National Symphony Orchestra, The National Dance Company and The National Drama Company. It is also a regular venue for Ghana’s world acclaimed satirist Kwaku Sintim-Misa popularly called KSM. Nubuke foundation 7 Adamafio Close, East Legon Tel: 028 910 21 63
nubukefoundation.org Enjoy programs ranging from drama and music to art exhibitions, poetry, and films.
Art Afia gallery No. 2 Liberia Rd Ext, Osu Tel: 0302 681465
Packed with local wood carvings and crafts. afiavillage.com Artists Alliance Gallery Omanye House. Beach Rd, La before LaPalm Hotel Tel: 0245251404
A fantastic African modern art gallery located right on the coast. The gallery is huge and more museum-like; three floors of fabric, paintings, sculptures, and odds and ends like coins and games. Hershel Gallery Mankrato St, East Cantonments
Tel: 0243380668
herschelgallery.com Kane Kwei Carpentry Workshop Teshie First Junction TEL: 0244 114719 / 5
Workshop of Seth Kane Kwei who invented the famous design coffins in the 1950’s which are carved into shapes that represent something important and relevant to the deceased person, such as a fish, airplanes, etc. Meet Eric Adjetey Anang, grandson of Kane Kwei, and hear stories about these fantastic coffins. Nu Gallery 7 Adamafio Close, East Legon Tel: 0910 21 63
Now open with paintings & sculptures from Ghanaian and other West African artists. Hours: Tues-Sat: 10:30am - 5:30pm, Sun: noon-4pm nubukefoundation.org
history Kwame Nkrumah Mausoleum & Museum High St., central Tel: 233 671 610
An obligatory visit for history buffs. Dr. Nkrumah serves as a loose approximation of George Washington for Ghana. This museum is an introduction to a complex personality. It is a great source of information, including photos of Nkrumah with a wide range of world leaders, his books, his clothing, and artifacts. National Museum of Ghana Accra Barnes Rd, central Tel: 021-221633
Established in 1957, this museum’s collection ranges from pre-historic, archaeological discoveries, to colonial antiquities and exhibits of contemporary African art. Don’t miss the outdoor sculpture garden. Open from 9am 5pm Tuesday through Sunday W.E.B. Dubois Center 2nd circular Rd, Cantonments
This is the home, library and final resting place of American-born crusader for social justice, William Edward Burghardt DuBois.
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dining spots with full kitchens. Here are few that we recommend: Asanka Local 18th lane Tel: 0302786328
This is good place to go if you are looking for a local experience. Find delicacies like Banku, fufu, soups, chicken etc. osu
La Chaumiere
African Ghanaian Village Restaurant La Palm Royal Beach Hotel No 5 La Bypass Rd Tel: 0302 215100 La
Buka
10th Lane Tel: 030 2782953
Maquis Tante Marie 5th Norla Link Tel: 0244612832
maquistantemarie.com Labone
Next Door Restaurant Beach Rd (op. the Military Academy) Tel: 024-4318697
osu
next-door.com Teshie
Christine’s Unique Café 150m off Ring Rd at Nima Junction Tel: 0302 222 265
Old Bob’s Place Niger Hse, 59 Okadan Tel: 028 8266378
Chez Afrique Near Yemoh Plaza Tel: 030 2911591
The Orangery Crepe & salad bar Farrar Ave Tel: 030 2232988
East Legon
Country kitchen 2nd Ringway Estates Tel: 0302229107
Osu
Adabraka
papaye Cantonments Rd Near MTN store Tel: 030 2773754
Osu
Osu
Le Grand Ecuyer Ring Road, just west of Danquah Circle Tel: 0302 768 64
chop bars
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Chop Bars range from a woman serving dishes out of a bowl on the side of the road to sit down
Auntie Muni Waakye off Josiah Tongogari St & orphan cres., TEL: 233246980070
Though it looks like little more than a roadside stand Aunti Muni’s is one of the most popular spots for weekend Wakeye. Cantonments
Peace Palace off of 6th st accross ecobank osu
seafood Captain Hooks 4 Kakramandu St Tel: 0302762228 Cantonments
fast food Barcelos Op. Dynasty Chinese Tel: 030 2933784
ASian Royal Dragon Chinese Restaurant La Palm Royal Beach Hotel No 5 La Bypass Rd Tel: 0302 215100 La
Dynasty restaurant Oxford St Tel: 030 2775496 Osu
Nobel House Kuku Hill, Salem Rd Tel: 0302785151 Osu
Zion Thai Restaurant Okodan & mission St Papaye Down Tel: 054-996-7644
Try spicy penang curry, true pad thai, and lots of vegetarian options. Afterwards, enjoy a sweetened Thai iced tea. Osu Padthai Restaurant 10 Monrovia Rd Tel: 0302962788 East Legon
italian Arlecchino 674 Oxford St Tel: 0245 410 403
Osu
Osu
Chicken Republic Cantonments Rd south of Papaye Tel: 030 2775496
Bella Roma Fourth Lane Tel: 024 74 74 007
Osu
KFC Cantonments Rd Osu
Osu
Eddy’s Pizza 66 Ring Road Tel: 54 413 3397 central
Il Cavaliere Pezzo
dining Accra Polo Grounds Tel: 0302 823131 Airport Res
Mama mia Pizzeria 7th Lane Tel: 0244 264 151 Osu
Osteria Michelangelos House No.3 Nortei Abadio St Tel: 024 4233533 Airport Res
Picasso Crown Apartamento Premises Tel: 0302771712 Airport Res
The Venue Adamafio link Tel: 024 3323425 East Legon
indian Heritage indian off Salem Rd Noble Chinese Restaurant Bldg Tel: 0302785151 Osu
Koh-I-Noor Grisfarm Hotel off First Tel: 030 2771999 Osu
Ring Road East at Labone Junction Tel: 0302 777 629
Also serves French food. Osu
western Bus Stop Bar & Restaurant
Tel: 0302220930 Adabraka
The Lexington next to the Paloma Hotel in the Kokolemle neighbourhood Tel: 0240 959 406
Serves deep fried brie, bruschetta, burgers, pulled pork. White Bell Cnr Farrar Av Adabraka Tel: 0302227066 Frankies Cantonments Rd Tel: 0302 77 35 67 Osu
Little Indian Sunshine Salad Bar 11th Lane Tel: 030 2780599 Osu
Sankofa Restaurant Mövenpick Hotel Tel: 0302611000
Tandoor Indian near Land Tours Tel:0243 151 417
central
Labone
El gaucho Abrebrensem Tel: 0289117575
lebanese
spanish
Basha Kojo Thompson Rd Niagara Hotel
Osu
Adabraka
honeysuckle bar Ring Rd
Le Magellan Restaurant
British
Tel: 030 2780774
3121
Seafood-grill, cocktail bar & cigar lounge, sushi/teppanyaki bar smoncnz@hotmail.com
Osu
Cuzzy Bro Troas St Tel: 026 608 6003 Osu
French La Chaumiere 215 Liberation Rd
Tel: 0302772408 Sophisticated French dishes have been delighting Accra for more than a decade.
Tel: 030 2773412 Airport Res
Café Chez Des Amis Liberation Rd, Across from French Embassy
‘N’ café Nubuke Foundation, TEl: 028 910 21 63 EAST LEGON
Le Must No 28, Orphan Crescent Tel: 0244661069
brunch
North Labone
Nicolino Alliance Française s Liberation Link Tel: 024 462 9656 Le Tandem 6 Mankralo St Tel: 030 2762959 Livingstone Safari near Akai House across from Kohinoor Tel: 024 6485135
Cafe Josie’s Cuppa Cappuccino 3rd Close,
Airport Res
Airport Res
Monsoon 41 Oxford St Osu above Osu Food Court Tel: 030 2782307
melting moments No. 78/5, 1st Norla St Tel: 0302770834 Labone
Labadi Beach Hotel No.1 La Bypass Tel: 030 277 2501/6 La
La Palm Royal Beach Hotel La
Osu
Japanese 3121 Sushi 14th Lane Behind Barclays Tel: 026 777
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shopping markets Makola Market Kojo Thompson Rd
Dominated by women this bustling market of Accra is situated right in the center of the city. There you will find: jewelry, fabrics, plastic hair decorations, traditional Ghanaian glass beads, batiks, wigs, bags, shoes, toiletries, as well as shea butter, fish, beans, meat, vegetables, fruit, flour, eggs, pots & pans, grills and much more. central
Malata Market Elephant Walk Rd
If you want a true local market experience, you’ll find it here. No tourists, no African masks, no tourist handcrafts, but you will have the opportunity to eat some authentic Ghanian fare
malls Accra Mall Spintex Rd, Tetteh Quarshie Interchange
accramall.com Airport Area
supermarkets Koala Supermarket Off Danquah Circle at Cantonments Rd Tel: 0302773455
Excellent assortment of local and imported goods; bread selection is highly recommended. Carries Cottage Farms frozen pork. koalashop.com.gh Osu shoprite Accra Mall Tel: 0302823020 Airport Area
crafts Centre for National Culture 28th February Rd Tel: 021 664099
A sea of stalls selling arts and crafts. It is also referred to as the Arts Centre. This is the place to shop in Accra for crafts. The level of aggressive hassling may discourage you but if you have the patience you can come away with good-quality handicrafts from all over Ghana. central
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Find Maksi’s clothing line at Winglos in East Legon Loom 117 Kwame Nkrumah Ave Tel: 0302224746
Sells spectacular paintings as well as woodcarvings, fabrics and statues. central Global Mamas 14th Lane Near Koala Supermarket Tel: 24 453 0467
globalmamas.org Osu Wild Gecko Handicrafts Near Tetteh Quarshie exchange Tel: 030 250 8500
Unique handcrafted furniture, household decorations, accessories & jewelry. www.wild-gecko.com Cantonments
Woodwork ABURI CARVING CENTer Akwapim Ridge On the way to the Aburi town center
Here craftmen can be seen at work on magnificent carvings and drums which are available for purchase. If you are feeling creative, you can actually design your own piece. ABURI
Jewelry Pmmc Mark Cofie Building Tel: 233 (0)302664579
shopping Find diamonds and gold directly from local small-scale miners . Find a variety of jewelry we especially love the unique jewelry representing traditional Ghanaian symbols. pmmcghana.com central
Inka La Crescent TEl: 233 20 030 8618
Exquisite hand crafted African jewellery Osu Nyaniba Estate
modern Art
Tel: 020 817 4362
Unique ethnic designs for children and adults. Airport Area
Winglow
13 Mensa Wood Street
Tel: 0302510321
Exclusive embroidered wear for women and men. Western styled clothing in African print. Interior decoration utilizing a blend of African and other fabrics.
www.winglow.com East Legon Aya Morrison
Artists Alliance Omanye House Tel: 0245251404
23 Nii Bonnie Crescent
A fantastic African modern art gallery located on the coast. Packed with artistic expression. Three floors of art, sculpture, carvings and artifacts. The best part is that most of it is for sale. artistsallianz.com LA
Dzorwolu
bookstores Silverbird bookstore Accra Mall Tel: 030 282 3270-5
Current fiction, nonfiction, business and religious books. Airport Area
Tel: 0302 956 355
Handbags, African print swimsuits & accessories ajePomaa Design Gallery No.8 Addo Close TEl: 026 564 5284
For gorgeous clothes East Legon Ohema Ohene SHOP Nubuke Foundation, 7 Adamafio Close TEl: 233 (28) 910 21 63 East Legon
University Bookshop University of Ghana Legon Tel: 0302 500398
Current fiction, nonfiction & textbooks. Great if you are looking for books by local authors. Legon
fabric & fashion Woodin Boutique Oxford St Tel: 0302764371
A temple of high fashion fabrics. 14 artists create ever changing designs. Osu DA viva Boutique 17th Lane Tel: 0289529770
Pure cotton fabric with a subtle mix of elegance and color. Osu Kiki clothing Accra Mall g h a n a k e y. c o m
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accommodations resorts
and government ministries. The Hotel has 260 rooms include 61 Executive Club Rooms, 15 Junior Suites with balconies and view of the Swimming Pool, one Ambassador Suite & a 320sqm Presidential Suite.
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Labadi Beach Hotel No.1 La Bypass, Accra Tel: +233 (30) 277 2501/6 labadi@legacyhotels.com
Beautiful and well maintained. Includes a health club, an outdoor pool, a fitness facility, and a children’s pool, a business center, small meeting rooms, and secretarial services. la La Palm Royal Beach Hotel 5 La Bypass Tel: 233 30221 5100/5111 gbhghana.net
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Featuring 152 rooms, each with its own private balcony, laid out in chalet fashion, creating the feeling of a village complete with 8 bars and restaurants, large swimming pool, souvenir shops, fitness center & casino. la
Luxury The African Regent 237-238 Airport West, Tel: 233 302765180
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A refreshing taste of Africa in a classy establishment. Enjoy an enviable collection of African Art. A spa, a health club, outdoor pool, a fitness facility, wireless Internet in public areas. Cantonments The Aknac Hotel Trasacco Valley Tel: 233 302824235 theaknachotel.com
In the peaceful suburbs of Accra near Trasacco Valley within easy reach of the city centre. This boutique hotel offers style, charm and personal service. Includes a restaurant, bars and an outdoor pool. Complimentary breakfast and wireless internet access. The MĂśvenpick Ambassador Hotel Independence Ave, Ridge Tel: +233 302611000 moevenpick.com
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Ideally located in the central business district of downtown Accra, close to major financial institutions, the International Conference Centre 28
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Villa Monticello No.1A Mankata Ave Link Airport Residential Tel: 233 302773477 villamonticello.com
A boutique hotel in the heart of Accra with beautifully designed themed rooms - the Marrakech suite is our favorite. Restaurant, outdoor pool, full-service spa, bar/lounge. Televisions with digital channels.
moderate Afia African Village $65-170 2 Liberia Road Osu Tel: 233 302681465 afiavillage.com
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Afia African Village is sensitively designed to take full advantage of the expansive ocean views and cooling sea breezes. Its traditionally styled architecture evokes the very essence of Africa. Singles, doubles and family suites. Breakfast included. Bojo Beach Resort $160-270 Off the Old Weija Barrier Tel: 233.302.912.946 bojobeachresort.com
With 35 guestrooms and suites, this retreat in the suburbs of Accra is perfect if you are looking to be in the city but enjoy the privacy and luxury of being far away. Enjoy the ocean and mountain views as well as high speed wireless internet. Kokrobite
Hillburi Aburi $150 Gyankama Tel: 0244385008 www.hillburi.com
Blending modern style with strong colonial and African influences, lovely comfortable king size beds, fluffy duvets and pillows and thick towels, spectacular views overlooking the surrounding
accommodations Starlite Lodge No 2 Volta River Ave. Teshi-Nungua Estates Tel: 233 302 712829 starlitelodge-ghana.com
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from $20 w/ breakfast Pink Hostel Tel: 233-302-256710/256712 phostel@busymail.com.gh Asylum Down from $20 (with continental breakfast) Bedua Home Suites $40-60 Tel: 233-241-234-234 NO 58 Genesis Estates at Mariville off Spintex Road in a gated community
Villa Monticello hills. Includes a bar, restaurant, infinity swimming pool. Aburi Mahogany Lodge $175-195 No. 9, Kakramadu Link Tel: 233-302-761162 mahoganylodge.com
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A very pretty courtyard with pool. Two computers with free wireless. East Cantonments
Bed & breakfast Spintex Inn $60 #1 Fourth Nii Kwaofio Link, Spintex Tel: 0207768243 spintexinn.com Spintex
Budget Blue Royal Hotel $69-$129 No 36. 18th lane off Cantoment Rd Tel: (0)302) 783075 blueroyalghana.com Osu New Ampax Hotel $20-40 Achimota Rd. Pokuake Junction Tel: (0)302-932158 ampaxhotelgh.com Asylum Down
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Frankies Cantonments rd. Tel: 0302 77 35 67 nii@frankiesghana.com Osu
huts & cottages Big Milly’s Back Yard GHc17-125 Tel: 0249 999 330 or 0262 999 330 www.bigmilly.com
Twenty rooms, all have fans and are beautifully decorated with African art. Double huts are of local clay bricks with thatched roofs. Most cottages are self contained. Several have A/C. 150 trees and a large menagerie of pets in the garden. Entertainment on Friday and Saturday nights. Kokrobite
holiday rentals Legassi Gardens Apartments ADDIS AVENUE,POKUASE JUNCTION, NEAR ACP ESTATES JUNCTION Tel: 233 277 522229 legassigardens@hotmail.com
Furnished and serviced apartments, in serene garden setting. Listen to our many birds, watch our garden butterflies, and play a game of Oware under the palm frond canopy! Convenience /craft store on-site & vegetarian cafĂŠ.
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La-Paradise Inn Tel: 233 302 762085 4th Ostwe Street South La Estate
In the heart of vibrant Osu area, these apartments are surrounded by a diverse array of shops and restaurants. Each apartment has a modern living space, internet access and satellite t.v. Outside enjoy the swimming pool and the tropical garden. la g h a n a k e y. c o m
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transportation Domestic Air: Antrak Air Tel: (233) (0) 302 765377, 765378 antrakair.com
Wholly Ghanaian owned, has flights to Kumasi, Takoradi, Sunyani, Tamale and Wa. Fly 540 Tel: (233) (0) 202 250 208 fly540africa.com
Offers internal flights to several locations around Ghana. They fly from Accra to Kumasi, Takoradi, Tamale and Sunyani.
Buses: STC (State Transport Corporation) Tel: (233-21) 221-912 or 252-835 or 221-314 A government owned and operated, intercity bus company. Buy tickets in advance to get an assigned seat. Buses from Accra to Tamale leave daily at 7am and 3pm, a 9 am bus continues to Bolgatanga. Buses from Tamale to Accra leave at 6.30am and 4pm. The bus from Tamale to Takoradi runs twice a week, Tuesday at 8am, Saturday at 3pm.
VIP Tel: 0544357030, 0544357038 vipjeoun@yahoo.com
Clean air conditioned buses to Kumasi with two levels of bus, one with larger seats and more leg room for marginally more money. Buses run frequently all day and night. A good alternative for a long drive. OA Travel and Tours Tel: 0243-3177620 Tamale: 0242-767694 / 0208-083644 Kumasi: 03220-41925
200m from STC station in Accra, offers very new buses for a reasonable price. Buses from Bolgatanga to Accra leave daily 3pm, 30GHc. Buses from Tamale to Accra leave daily at 5pm, 25GHc. Advanced booking is recommended.
Car Rentals: Atlas Rent-A-Car
Tel: 024 427 7871 ghana-car-rentals.com Tel: 0.264.264.246 ghana-car-rentals.com
A one-stop-shop for online car hire in Ghana. With a wide selection of vehicles for personal as well as business car rental needs.
MAKOLA MARKET • TEL: 0244 601181
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