key a magazine for travelers by travelers • July/August 2013
ghana
g h a n a’s
is it o r ’s
ghana’s western Region Discover some of Ghana’s best beaches and remarkable collection of colonial forts p. 20
o n ly
free v g u id e
accra’s
insider guide
PLUS… the premier of award winning short “Kwaku Ananse” p. 10
p. 5
Tel: 0302 762576; 0245 251404 • Fax: 021 762379 E-mail:niiglo@gmail.com or info@artistsallianz.com Box LA 348, La, Accra • artistsallianz.com Opening Hours: Monday – Saturday : 9.00am - 6:00pm Sunday: 12noon - 6:00pm or by appointment
Key Ghana • volume 10 / 2013
july & august c o n te n t s
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Accra’s insider’s guide From food and drinks to fashion, art and music, get tips from local entrepreneurs, artists and musicians on how to visit Accra like a local
8
Coming events
Discover Accra’s music, performing arts, galleries, sports etc. 16
Dining index
From fine dining to street food in Accra 26
Shopping index From neighborhood markets to unique boutiques 28
Accommodation index Luxury to budget hotels and holiday rentals
map
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Explore Accra This travel map includes streets & locations
Transportation index
18
key
beyond Accra
Discover Ghana beyond Accra this month we feature the Western Region 22
Entertainment index
Discover Accra’s many venues for music, film & theater
Ghana’s Western Region p.20
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ghana
Key Ghana LTD
P.O. Box AT 517 Achimota - Accra Laure Leplae-Arthur, Creative
Director - laurearthur@ghanakey.com Nana Nketsia-Eshun, Country Rep.
& Accounts Executive, nnketsia@ ghanakey.com ghanakey.com This magazine is authorized by KEY MAGAZINES INC.
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To Advertise Call: + 233 244 471 752 or (414) 759 9245
Kitty J. Pope (right) creator and executive director, Dr. Babs Onabanjo (left) executive producer, of the African Diaspora World Tourism Awards
Maria, owner of Amaesng Travel in California,specialists in travel to Ghana.
Hall of Fame Honoree Dr. Elizabeth Bouey-Yates founder of Yates Travel
Person of the Year, Dr. Ewart Brown of Bermuda, recognized for re-igniting interest in preserving, developing and promoting African Diaspora Heritage Trails around the world.
Outstanding Cultural Center went to Ghana’s W.E.B. Dubois Center
Ghanaian, Georgina Lorencz won Outstanding Cultural Heritage Tourism Educator
insider
FA S HI O N m usic art R E S TA U RA N T S + MORE
A look at Accra from 3 insiders Nana Darkoa Sekyiamah, Head of Business Development at MAKSI Company Limited, opens up and shares her favorite spots in her favorite city.
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3 1 where to eat
2 Nightlife in Accra 3 must-buy fashion 4 don’t miss bazaars
If you want to be abrofosem (foreign) try Melting Moments, a chilled out coffee shop with decent waffles and smoothies, otherwise be adventurous and try hausa koko (a spicy porridge) and bofrot (fried doughnuts) at a roadside kiosk. Try Buka’s in Osu for traditional African fare.
In the evening take a stroll down Oxford Street to The Republic for great cocktails made with local akpeteshie (cane spirit) and delicious sides including yam chips and calamari. For concerts and gigs visit the Alliance Française section (p. 8) to find out what’s happening.
If you are like me you love shopping, so visit Prestige Boutique in Osu and Winglow in East Legon where my fashion label MAKSI is stocked. For handbags, African print swimsuits and accessories Aya Morrison in Dzorwolu, Inka in Nyaniba Estate for Jewelry and ajePomaa Design Gallery in East Legon for gorgeous clothes.
There are occasional bazaars: HIMMS at Cuppa Cappucino in the Airport Residential Area and The Open Air Stock Exchange which has been held at Goethe Institute recently. For delicious smelling soaps and lotions check out Madam Yasmeen’s in Dzorwolu and Pure Essence in Osu. g h a n a k e y . c om 5
insider the evolution of Ghanaian art
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Where to see or buy art in Accra
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Where to eat and be entertained
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Contemporary African Art, has changed as humanity has evolved, emotionally, socially and economically. Previously only the very wealthy could afford art, now it’s available to almost anyone. One thing remains the same. Art tells a story, through lines, dots, brush strokes, carvings and colors. This month see a Kente and Beads Exhibition at the Artist’s Alliance Gallery.
Contemporary Ghanaian Art can be acquired directly from the Artists, or at galleries like the Artists Alliance Gallery, the Dei-Center, at Exhibitions and a host of other places like the famous Art Center. The industry is also currently consolidating which is a good thing. You now find museums and galleries of different sizes and nature, stalls, street vendors dotted on Oxford street in Osu.
I am not a fan of big enclosed restaurants. I like the breezy hide out overlooking the Atlantic ocean directly behind Artists Alliance Gallery called Maya Cova, you will really feel at home here. For entertainment: Bingo! National Theatre and Alliance Française. Hopefully in the future it shouldn’t be only one or two places, we should have them dotted in various communities.
Leonard Nii Odoi Glover, Business Development/ Marketing, Artists Alliance Gallery
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2 Photo by Rich Hackman
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insider
2
3 Jojo Abot Musician and actress
of the world such musical inspiration as jazz, reggae and soul.” “Contemporary (Some of her Ghanaian music draws inspiration favorite musicians are: Fela Kuti, Asa, from the sounds Simphiwe Dana, and rhythms of Ebo Taylor, Buika, the world while keeping in central Lana Del Rey) focus authentic traditional Ghana- 2 where to ian rhythms. It’s a perform Alliance Française merger between “The biggest most the new and old in the creation of supportive stage in Accra as far as I’m something hip, concerned.” new and timeTaverna Tropicana less. My music in particular pays “A small underground space. homage to my Much like Shrine roots as an Ewe while celebrating in NYC. Very cool the newer sounds and hip space, perfect for hanging
1 Where to find
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out while enjoying fabulous live music and art.” (Jojo performs at Taverna Tropicana, June 29, 8pm)
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where Musicians hangout
Taverna Tropicana, Alliance Française & The Republic She also loves to go out and eat at Kokrobite Garden located in Kobrobite. “I love anything off the menu.” Her favorite dish is Tilapia with either banku or Eba.
Tips from Urban Outfitter’s blog: Della is a socially responsible fashion line working directly with a community in Ghana. Here is what Rachel Curtin, Production Manager based in Ghana shared on Urban Outfitter’s blog: Rachel’s favorite place
On a recent trip, she went where Lake Volta meets the sea to get to a hotel called Meet Me There. “It was well worth the hassle, with a diving platform off the restaurant into a lagoon, a five dollar a night beach hut and a wild ocean front, free of tourists.”
J u ly - a u g u s t
coming events Panafest
& Emancipation Day Exhibition Secrets under the Skin July 6-7
Nubuke Foundation A collaborative, multi-media project documenting the link between religious Cuban and Ghanaian ceremonies
July 22- August 3 Accra - Northern Region -Cape Coast
Observed every two years, Panafest is an event dedicated to all persons committed to the well being of Africans on continent and in the global arena. During this festival there are various conferences on African arts, history & international relationships along with many performances in theater, dance, music, poetry and more. These events not only serve as entertainment but as a way of educating the world about the African legacy. One of the highlights of the festival is a candlelit Emancipation Vigil to honor African slaves. 8
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Closure of the 9th Environmental Film Festival July 5, 6:30 pm
Alliance Franรงaise This final movie highlights the important but often neglected relationship between the environment and its impact on health.
events- music for Kukua. 10GHc, 5GHc for AF students and members, Alliance française main stage, 8 pm
Ramblers International Band
Paapa
music
q Gold Coast Sickness
Enjoy Ghana’s many styles of traditional and modern music, coming from a multiplicity of ethnic groups & its geographic position in Africa. July
r New Music Ghana Competition A yearly event organized by the Institute for Music and Development and the Goethe Institute. It is a nationwide project which empowers young musicians to compose, create, play and promote contemporary African music that is rooted in urban styles. This year the focus is Tamale and participat-
Bizung School of Music
ing bands include Youth Home, North Wings, Bright Stars and Bizung Bands. Youth Home Center, Tamale, 4 pm
August Paapa Concert Over the past 2 years after releasing “BeYoutiful”, the first single from his debut album Solar, Paapa has become a close friend to the Alliance Française stage. On the 27th, he will be performing live in concert, delivering original electro-soul songs about faith, longing and Ghana from his just released sophomore album Songs
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Highlife Afro fusion Concert Ramblers International Band from Ghana, and Zohzoh, Afro-Fusion band from New Zealand, are a group of musicians whose vision is to contribute towards the development and sustenance of Highlife – Afro fusion music. Zohzoh band is influenced by Fela Kuti, Miles Davis, Peter Tosh, James Brown and the King of Highlife music E. T Mensah from Ghana. They will offer a unique concert dubbed Gold Coast Sickness. 20 GHc, 10 GHc for AF Students, Alliance Française, 7 – 10 pm
Zoh Zoh
Alliance Française Liberation Link, Airport Area Tel: 0302 77 31 34 / afaccra.com Goethe-Institut 30 Kakramadu Rd (next to NAFTI ) Cantonments Tel: 0302 779 769 / goethe.de g h a n a k e y . c om 9
events- film
film July
1 Kwaku Ananse Award-winning short film premiere by Akosua Adoma Owusu 25 minutes, 2013 Ghana’s sole winning film at the 2013 Africa Movie Academy Awards, Kwaku Ananse’ is a creative retelling of a fable about a part man part spider starring Koo Nimo, Grace Omaboe, and first-time actress and singer, Jojo Abot. Kwaku Ananse earned recognition around the world including at the prestigious Berlinale Film Festival, Cannes Short Film Corner, and the French Cesar Film Academy’s Golden Nights Panorama program for the World’s Best Short Films. The film will be screened with live music accompaniment by legendary 10
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palmwine musician, Koo Nimo and his Adadam Agofomma Group. This event will be preceded from 6 to 7pm by an information session by Institut Français of Ghana about opportunities in France for Ghanaian filmmakers (workshops, funding, coproduction, participation to festivals, etc). Alliance Française, 7pm
4 Football Under Cover by Ayat Najafi & David Assman, 87mins, 2008 A film about a female football team in Islamic Iran. English Subtitles Goethe-Institut, 7pm
relationship between Ghana’s environment, the high cost of public health and the health of individuals. A range of short movies and a feature film will close the festival. The latest film from a series of short environmental films commissioned by the French Embassy in Ghana and produced by Creative Storm will be screened and discussed. This movie highlights the important but often neglected relationship between the environment and its impact on health. Free, Alliance française - Exhibition hall, Cocktail 6:30pm Film screening: 7pm
o Heirate Mich by Uli Gaulke, 102mins, 2009 A Cuban woman in her late twenties and her young son relocate to Germany in order to start a new life. Havana native Gladis meets and falls in
5 Closure of the 9th Environmental Film Festival The Environmental Film Festival of Accra is dedicated to raising awareness about the significant
events- film
love with German vacationer Erik at the dawn of the new millennium which prompts a rather spontaneous marriage proposal. While anxious to begin her new life, Gladis is also reticent over leaving behind her family and friends. Goethe-Institut, 7pm
August
1 Full Metal Village
by Sung-Hyung Cho, 90mins, 2007 The cultural chasm that exists between the inhabitants of Wacken
and the heavy metal fans who have traveled from all over the world to be here could not be greater. on one hand, lace shirts, golden crucifixes and dark single-breasted suits; on the other, black Lederhosen, studded collars, tatoos of Satan and shoulder-length hair. Goethe-Institut, 7pm
; Fitzcarraldo by Werner Herzog, 157mins, 1981/82, A comedy about a music enthusiast in Brazil, 100 years ago Goethe-Institut, 7pm
y Schiller by Martin
Weinhart, 90mins,2005. The story of a revolutionary German poet in 18th century subtitles in English. Goethe-Institut, 7pm
party / reality tv July
6 The American Independence Day Bash A celebration of America’s independence and traditions and most of all the theme of bringing together people from all nationalities to come and enjoy great American food, drinks, and music. The whole family is welcome to enjoy both children and adult games and
have a chance of winning exciting raffle prizes. The proceeds from this event will be awarded to Youth Alive and The Kumasi Children’s Home. Adults: 10GHc in advance / 15GHc at the gate Kids: 5 GHc in advance / 7 GHc at the gate Alliance Française, 3 - 9pm
rich Ghanaian culture into the youth. Contestants for the show will be drawn from selected tertiary schools and cultural institution in the community. Goethe-Institut, 7pm
r Launch of Heritage Africa TV Reality Show This show is a program designed to educate, inspire, and inculcate the
Alliance Française Liberation Link, Airport Area Tel: 0302 77 31 34 / afaccra.com Goethe-Institut 30 Kakramadu Rd (next to NAFTI ) Cantonments Tel: 0302 779 769 / goethe.de g h a n a k e y . c om
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events - festivals
Panafest & Emancipation Day The 2013 PANAFEST and Emancipation Day celebrations will take place from the July 26 to August 3. This biannual festival showcases Ghanaian culture as well as Pan-Africanism and attracts people from all over the world. With “Re-uniting the African family; Pan Africanism and the African Renaissance” as a theme, the festival features music, dance and drama performances, as well as a chieftain reception. Aimed at reuniting people from the African States, including those of the African Diaspora, this festival is designed to help Africans celebrate their strengths and to recognize their history so they can rededicate themselves and embrace their 12
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own destiny through the lessons of the past. The celebration allows for Ghana’s coastline, which is rich with now silent memorials, to be used as a backdrop to revisit the devastating effects of the slave trade. Purging the pain and acknowledging the effects that the slave trade has had on the continent and abroad and re-uniting all the affected people helps to create a positive future in today’s global environment. This year’s festival celebrates two landmark events in Africa’s liberation, the 50th anniversary of the formation of the Organization of African Unity and the 50th anniversary of the demise in Accra of Dr. W.E.B Dubois. The joint celebration of Panafest and Emancipation Day are a powerful re-awakening event, and a great opportunity for Africans in the Diaspora to retrace their steps back to the Motherland as well as an opportunity for Ghanaians to reconnect with their brothers and sisters in the Diaspora.
events - festivals
Panafest / Emancipation Day Event calendar July
d Wreath-laying ceremony honoring the Ancestors. Nkrumah Memorial Park, George Padomore Library, W.E.B. Du Bois Center for Pan African Culture Northern PilgrimageSlave Route Northern Ghana f Northern Pilgrimage continues Visit Enslavement sites g Pilgrimage continues Bono Manso, Brong Ahafo h Pilgrimage continues Kumasi to Central Region j Morning: Return Journey - Akwaaba Ceremony Symbolic boat ride from Cape Coast “Door of No Return” to Elmina Castle Evening: Opening of Trade Fair/Bazaar and performances Official Ribbon cutting to open the Panafest Village 9- day expo which show cases creative products from the African World. k Opening Ceremony & 21st Anniversary Durbar of
Kings and Queens and Visiting Delegations Victoria Park, Cape Coast Evening performances Panafest Village, Cape Coast l Optional Naming Ceremony for Diaspora Applicants. Oguaa Traditional Council Historic Site Seeing Central Region Evening performances Panafest Village ; Pan African Youth Extravaganza University of Cape Coast Evening theater performances Panafest Village z Women’s Day “The Role of the women in the African Renaissance.” Centre of National Culture, Cape Coast Evening performances Panafest Village x Agro Artists Workshops in music, dance and theater Centre of National Culture, Cape Coast Candle Light Procession through the main streets of Cape Coast to the Castle/
Dungeon for a tribute to the ancestors Mfantsipin Junction to Cape Coast Castle
August
1 Emancipation Day Assin Manso 2 Panfest High Level Dialogue Renown Pan African Scholars convene to discuss “Pan Africanism and African Renaissance Accra International Conference Centre African Renaissance Dinner Special Close out Dinner-Awards State House, Banquet Hall, Accra 3 Panfest High Level Dialogue (cont.) Accra International Conference Centre African Renaissance Night “WOYA-YA: African Artistes on the Move!” Live performances featuring performers from the African World National Theatre, Accra
Panafest Information: Tel: 03321-33085 / visit panafestghana.org / info@panafestghana.org
events - art
art / workshop July
6-7 Exhibition Secrets under the Skin A collaborative, multimedia project documenting the link between religious Cuban and Ghanaian ceremonies by artists Jill Flanders Crosby, Susan Matthews, Brian Jeffrey, Marianne Kim, Brandon McElroy, Melba Nunez and Roberto Pedroso Garcia. The project includes video, paintings, illuminated manuscripts, installation work photos and photographic assemblages. Nubuke Foundation Opening: July 6, 4 pm Artists’ Talk: July 7, 3 pm
NSI - is a creative hub for nurturing, inspiring and encouraging people to discover the pleasures of creativity: conceptualizing, designing and production in the arts. NSI will be running two weeks of training sessions on art and design, covering photography, animation, fine art, drawing and graphics. For this formation, tutors will be people from the design industry and education sector and who have had wide exposure to both the local and international cultures, to bring home new ideas to an age-old discipline. It will focus on teaching the basics of the art to help people explore their minds and to develop the right
skills for visual expression. 500 GHc, Alliance française - Exhibition hall, 9.30 am – 5.30 pm
August
p Exhibition: Post Oil City As much about the future as it is about the past, the exhibition’s subtitle is The History of the City’s Future – every vision of the future is based on a vision of the past. By contrasting 11 current projects in the field of sustainable urban planning with 9 from the past, the exhibition aims to show that many of today’s developments have their roots in the urban utopias of mid-20th-century modernism. Goethe-Institut, opening, 7pm ( Exhibition runs until October 7)
i - x Creative art workshop (for students) Alliance Française Liberation Link, Airport Area Tel: 0302 77 31 34 / afaccra.com Goethe-Institut 30 Kakramadu Rd (next to NAFTI ) Cantonments Tel: 0302 779 769 / goethe.de Nubuke Foundation Near Mensvic Hotel, East Legon Tel: 0207 388 236 / nubukefoundation.org 14
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will now be made into a Hollywood movie! Will Peggielene Bartels is a GhanaianSmith bought the rights to born American citizen who, in 2008, the book and King Peggy became the first female king of says, “Next year, God willing, we are going to Otuam, a fishing village in Ghana. have a movie out there.” Queen Latifah is slotted to play King Peggy. King Peggy says that she is so happy to let the whole world know that a secretary can become a king, lead wisely and help the people. Her village, a 40 minute canoe ride along the Amansuri River, is home to 500 people and has its own school. It sounds like According to a CNN amazing life journey from they made the right choice interview King Peggy’s secretary to king which real-life fairy tale about her was documented in a book when they chose their king.
a real-life fairy tale
MAKOLA MARKET • TEL: 0244 601181 g h a n a k e y . c om
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Accra
Achimoto F (New Ac
ACHIMOTA
KW Achimota Abeka-Lopaz Interchange
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Ankasa Game Reserve
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Paga Gbele Game Production Reserve
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Nkrum Memorial
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Noguchi Memorial Institute of Medical Research
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beyond Accra Beyond Accra discover unique wildlife, historical monuments and so much more.
Castles & forts Cape Coast Castle
After the passage of numerous foreign powers, this castle became a British possession in 1664. Millions of slaves were shipped to the Caribbean and the United States through this castle before becoming the seat of British colonial administration. The cannons still face seaward, stirring the imagination to scenes of exploration, discovery and great tragedy. The Museum of West African History, describes the role that 18
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these great structures played in the slave trade.
areas for the human cargo of the infamous slave trade.
Elmina castle
Fort St. Jago
Ten kilometers west of Cape Coast Castle, Elmina Castle is the earliest known European structure in the tropics. Built in 1482 by the Portuguese during early world exploration, the castle was taken over by the Dutch in 1637, who retained control for 274 years. Inside the vast fortification is the first Catholic church in SubSahara Africa. The Castle’s damp, unlit dungeons served as horrific holding
Walking distance from Elmina Castle, this fort unlike others was not used for trading activities but provided military protection to Elmina Castle. Be sure to bring your camera since it provides an excellent view. Axim - Fort Santo Antonio
Built by the Portuguese in 1515 and expanded between 1642 and 1872 by the Dutch. It is now run by the Ghana Museums and Monuments Board and is
Wildlife Shai Hills Resource Reserve
The closest wildlife park to Accra. The vegetation of Shai Hills is dry, coastal evergreen savannah and 40% of the park is made up of hills covered with dry forest. Major wildlife to be seen include olive baboons, green monkeys, kobs and bushbucks, as well as monitor lizards, pythons and snakes. Bird lovers will also find many bird species including the Senegal Parrot, Grey Plantain Eater, Hornbill, Red Northern Bishop and Violet Turaco and many more. Don’t miss a to visit to one of the three caves, Adwuku, Sayu or Hiewey Mole National Park
Mole is about a 1 hour drive from Tamale. Tamale is about 600 km from Accra (a 13 hour bus ride, or a 1 hour 20 min plane ride) The largest of its kind in Ghana. Its savannah woodland and forested areas cover a staggering space which measures just less than 5000 square kilometers. You can expect to see antelope, elephants, baboons, warthogs, buffalo, hyenas and if you’re very lucky, a leopard.
Lions have recently been re-introduced to the park as well. There are also more than 250 species of birds to enjoy. The park has a simple motel with a pool and restaurant located directly above the elephants’ bathing pond. Owabi Forest Reserve and Bird Sanctuary
15km from Kumasi Winter home to a variety of migratory birds as well as tropical birds who live there year round. Also home to hundreds of the endangered Mona Monkeys. Further to the northeast is the Bomfobiri Wildlife Sanctuary, containing the spectacular Bomfobiri Falls. The salt marshes of the Songow Lagoon are also worth seeing. Lake Volta
At Akosombo Dam, board the Yapei Queen ferry and cruise up massive Lake Volta on a 24-hour trip past wooded hills and farming villages and into Ghana’s arid north, docking at Yeji. Amansuri wetland
90 km west of Takoradi A complex of peat, swamp and mangrove forests, flood plains, and sandy shores with streams, rivers, a fresh water lake, lagoons and the sea as environmental features. It is the largest intact swamp forest in Ghana
a cr Ac e nd lif yo l d Be Wi
open to the public. Look for the beautiful off-shore islands and lighthouse.
and home to many species of plants and animals. Ninety-three of these species made up of reptiles, mammals and birds are of global and national conservation interest.
Birding Ghana Bird Walks
Join a monthly bird walk on the last Saturday of every month from 7am to 9am. The birding site and meeting point for each month will be communicated. Contact Samuel Temidayo Tel: 0234237732 taymida@yahoo.co.uk or Reuben Ottou Tel: 0244 893 528 reubenott@yahoo.co.uk Bobiri Butterfly Sanctuary
Located 30km from Kumasi and about 25km from Konogo, along the Kumasi-Accra highway. Tel: 024 646 5993, A bewildering experience as clouds of mud-puddling Whites and Yellows take flight as well as Swallowtails and Pure Gold or Red Gliders, Mother-of-Pearls’. The butterflies are plentiful. There are also very good guided tours of the plants, explaining their interesting commercial and medicinal uses. The guesthouse on site serves basic food, and has a pleasant staff. g h a n a k e y . c om
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B W e yo es n te d A rn c RE c r a gio n
The Western Region Bordering Ivory Coast, the Western Region is best known for its stunning beaches and beach resorts. Its administrative capital Takoradi, is the country’s second biggest industrial area and is known for its recent discovery of oil. The region has a remarkable collection of colonial forts at Dixcove, Princes Town, Axim and Beyin. It also has the best protected rainforest, the Ankansa National Park. The journey to the Western Region is at least 4 hours but it can be broken up with a stop-over in Cape Coast.
National Park and some of the forts along the coast. Axim Beach Resort, Lou Moon Lodge and Ankobra are all lovely resorts to relax for a weekend break. Fort Antonio in Axim town is also worth a visit. Nzulezu – The Village on Stilts
Takoradi This popular attraction is a Takoradi village on stilts which can be The administrative capital of this region is worth visiting reached after an hour’s boat if you are in the area. Due to the recent discovery of ride from Beyin to the centre oil there are a large number of international companies of Lake Tandem. Legend in the area and a few good international standard has it that it was built many hotels. The view of the harbour from Harbour View is years ago to escape the slave recommended. traders. Life at the village has adapted to the watery Busua Beach conditions. A trip to the region would not be complete without a visit to Busua Beach and more notably Busua Beach Resort. There are many beach activities including kayaking, surfing, jet skiing and boat rides. You can even arrange to visit Abokwae Island by boat or jet ski. Surfing is particularly popular on this beach and equipment and lessons can be arranged.
Ankansa National Park
This is the best protected rainforest in Ghana with the
Axim
Axim is a popular destination for weekend getaways due to its idyllic beaches and resorts. It is also a good base to explore nearby attractions such as the Nzeluzu stilt village, Ankasa 20
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Nzulezu Stilt Village
Atewa Forest Kyebi
Kade Dunkwa
a cr n Ac gio n d RE yo r n Be ste e W
Tano
Obuasi
Wiawso
Kof Aburi Gar nkese Nsawam Asama Suhum
Oda
Enchi Boin National Park
Foso Twifu
Bawdia
WESTERN Ankob r
Nzulezu Stilt Village
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Raybow Inter’l Hotel Centrally located. Good value. Swimming pool. Takoradi Tel: 031-2022072
Ankansa National Park most biologically diverse rainforest. It has over 300 plant species in just one hectare. It is also home to a range of wildlife including forest elephants, leopards, antelopes, chimpanzees etc. For weekend tours or transportation to the Western Region contact Melian Travel and Tours. Tel: (233)(0)302 2962411 email: info@meliantnt.com website: www.meliantnt.com.
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Captain Hooks Restaurant Seafood restaurant. Excellent food. Upmarket. Takoradi
Busua Beach Resort International standard. Champs Sports Bar & Same chain as La Palm in Restaurant Takoradi Accra. Busua Faha Country Kitchen Tel: 031-20 93307-9 Located at Nzulezu Axim Beach Resort Reception Centre. Beyin Chalets to suit range of Busua Beach Resort budgets. Set on hilltop overlooking ocean. Axim Continental. Busua Tel: 031-20 92397 Lou Moon Lodge Idyllic location. Romantic setting. Kayaking available. Axim Tel:0244 424497 Ankobra Beach Resort Set on one of most beautiful beaches in Ghana. Ankobra Tel:031-2092321
VIS IT
Nzulezu Stilt Village Beyin Ankansa National Park Cape Three Points Lighthouse Cape Three Points
Fort Antonio Axim Egyambra Crocodile Pond Near Princes Town Beyin Beach Resort Kwame Nkrumah’s Birth Near Nzeluzu Stilt village. Place Nkroful Beyin Tel: 0242 188240
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Ac
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CENTRAL
Sh S ama Tak ekon o di r A a Bus powa di Dixc ua ove
e
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Cap
Pra
Ankasa Game Reserve
Lagune Aby
KasoaWeija
Kakum National Park
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Entertainment
Jazztone No.3 Third Ringway, Airport Res. Tel: 0302 761082
Live Entertainment Fri & Sat from 8:30 pm
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Jokers Labadi Road, La Tel: 024 4370752
Not very far from La Beach, this is a very popular place to play pool, tourists & locals meet here to have a drink and a game.
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The Lexington next to Paloma Hotel, Kokolemle Tel: (0) 240 959 406
Taverna Tropicana A small underground space. Much like Shrine in NYC. This very cool and hip space is perfect for hanging out while enjoying fabulous live music and art. Stop in on June 29th, at 8pm to see
nightlife
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Aphrodisiac 35 Osu Badu Street, Dzorwulu Tel: 0302 766 738
DJs serve a mix of hip hop and R&B, hip life, garage and techno. Ladies night on Thursdays. Fridays DJ Flava Nite open from 11pm - 6am
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+233 jazz bar & grill 75 Ring Rd, North Ridge Tel: 0244 276 027
Ghana’s premiere jazz and live music club. Open until 4 am on week-ends Bywell Okodan Rd off of Oxford St, Osu Tel: 0302767793
Thursdays a live band performs high life music. 6pm -1 am. Citizen Kofi
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(presently closed for renovation) Duplex 2nd Kuku close off oxford st, Osu
Definitely the most down to earth place you will find.
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An upscale lounge/sports bar specializing in cocktails with fancy bar snacks frequented by ex-pats and locals alike. Next Door Beach Resort Beach Road, Teshie (opposite the Military Academy) Tel: 024 4318697
Live music on weekends, Sunday afternoons catch some traditional song and dance performances. The one2one Bar MĂśvenpick Hotel, Central
A chic cocktail bar where you can escape, socialize and launch your evening in style to the sound of African lounge music or live performances. The Republic Bar & Grill 3rd Lane Kuku Hill, Osu Tel: 024 631 4044
This place has quickly become the hot spot in Accra. Like the every-week-kind-of-spot to chill, catch up with friends, and listen to some cool music over beer and food. Robi Dutch Pub Dade walkstreet 14, Labone Tel: 0242201087
The only authentic Dutch pub in Ghana, with Dutch cuisine, beer, music and ambiance. Taverna Tropicana Palm Link, Nima Tel: 024 530 4505
Enjoy some great cuisine and some of the best live music in Accra.
Silverbird Cinema First Floor, Shop 39, Accra Mall, Tetteh Quashie Interchange Tel: 021 823270-4
silverbirdghana.com Goethe-Institut 30 Kakramadu Rd, Cantonments Tel: 0302 779 769
Regularly show films on Thursdays. www. goethe.de
Drama / music Alliance Française Accra Liberation Link - Airport Residential Tel: 0302 773 134
A large producer of cultural events in Accra, including live music, poetry readings, theater, art exhibits and much more, that reflect the diversity and the quality of France and Africa’s artistic offer. afaccra.com National Theatre of Ghana South Liberia Road, Central Tel: 0244272884
This elegant and imposing theater is the hub of music and theater in Accra. It houses The National Symphony Orchestra, The National Dance Company and The National Drama Company. It is also a regular venue for Ghana’s world acclaimed satirist Kwaku Sintim-Misa popularly called KSM. The National Theater is also worth a guided or self-visit in the daytime (for a minimal fee). Nubuke foundation 7 Adamafio Close, East Legon Tel: 028 910 21 63
nubukefoundation.org Enjoy programs ranging from drama and music to art exhibitions, poetry, and films.
Art Afia gallery No. 2 Liberia Rd Ext, Osu Tel: 0302 681465
Packed with local wood carvings and crafts. afiavillage.com
Artists Alliance Gallery Omanye House. Beach Rd, La before LaPalm Hotel Tel: 0245251404
A fantastic African modern art gallery located right on the coast. The gallery is huge and more museum-like; three floors of fabric, paintings, sculptures, and odds and ends like coins and games. Hershel Gallery Mankrato St, East Cantonments Tel: 0243380668
herschelgallery.com Kane Kwei Carpentry Workshop Teshie First Junction TEL: 0244 114719 / 5
Workshop of Seth Kane Kwei who invented the famous design coffins in the 1950’s which are carved into shapes that represent something important and relevant to the deceased person, such as a fish, airplanes, etc. Meet Eric Adjetey Anang, grandson of Kane Kwei, and hear stories about these fantastic coffins.
history Kwame Nkrumah Mausoleum & Museum High St., central Tel: 233 671 610
An obligatory visit for history buffs. Dr. Nkrumah serves as a loose approximation of George Washington for Ghana. This museum is an introduction to a complex personality. It is a great source of information, including photos of Nkrumah with a wide range of world leaders, his books, his clothing, and artifacts. National Museum of Ghana Accra Barnes Rd, central Tel: 021-221633
Established in 1957, this museum’s collection ranges from pre-historic, archaeological discoveries, to colonial antiquities and exhibits of contemporary African art. Don’t miss the outdoor sculpture garden. Open from 9am 5pm Tuesday through Sunday W.E.B. Dubois Center 2nd circular Rd, Cantonments
This is the home, library and final resting place of American-born crusader for social justice, William Edward Burghardt DuBois.
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arts & culture
film
dining
Niger Hse, 59 Okadan Tel: 028 8266378 Osu
The Orangery Crepe & salad bar Farrar Ave Tel: 030 2232988 Adabraka
Hausa Koko & bofrot Hausa koko ( a traditional porridge made from millet flour and spices) and Bofrot (a doughnut similar to the French beignet) is a one of the best breakfast meals you could ever get. Probably the best place to find this popular breakfast dish is at one of the kiosks that you can find on the roadside.
African Ghanaian Village Restaurant La Palm Royal Beach Hotel No 5 La Bypass Rd Tel: 0302 215100
Enjoy an African lunch or dinner with seafood with a view of the Atlantic Ocean. La Buka
10th Lane Tel: 030 2782953 osu
Christine’s Unique Café 150m off Ring Rd at Nima Junction Tel: 0302 222 265 Chez Afrique Near Yemoh Plaza Tel: 030 2911591 East Legon
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papaye Cantonments Rd Near MTN store Tel: 030 2773754 Osu
chop bars
Chop Bars range from a woman serving dishes out of a bowl on the side of the road to sit down spots with full kitchens. Here are few that we recommend: Asanka Local 18th lane Tel: 0302786328
Country kitchen 2nd Ringway Estates Tel: 0302229107 Osu
Le Grand Ecuyer Ring Road, just west of Danquah Circle Tel: 0302 768 64 Maquis Tante Marie 5th Norla Link Tel: 0244612832
maquistantemarie.com Labone
Next Door Restaurant Beach Rd (op. the Military Academy) Tel: 024-4318697
next-door.com Teshie Old Bob’s Place
This is good place to go if you are looking for a local experience. Find delicacies like Banku, fufu, soups, chicken etc. osu Auntie Muni Waakye off Josiah Tongogari St & orphan cres., TEL: 233246980070
Though it looks like little more than a roadside stand Aunti Muni’s is one of the most popular spots for weekend Wakeye. Cantonments
Peace Palace off of 6th st accross ecobank osu
seafood Captain Hooks 4 Kakramandu St Tel: 0302762228 Cantonments
fast food Barcelos Op. Dynasty Chinese Tel: 030 2933784 Osu
Chicken Republic Cantonments Rd south of Papaye Tel: 030 2775496 Osu
KFC Cantonments Rd Osu
ASian Royal Dragon Chinese Restaurant La Palm Royal Beach Hotel No 5 La Bypass Rd Tel: 0302 215100
Enjoy a Chinese dinner with special teppanyaki every evening. La Dynasty restaurant Oxford St Tel: 030 2775496 Osu
Nobel House Kuku Hill, Salem Rd Tel: 0302785151 Osu
Zion Thai Restaurant Okodan & mission St Papaye Down Tel: 054-996-7644
Try spicy penang curry, true pad thai,
and lots of vegetarian options. Afterwards, enjoy a sweetened Thai iced tea. Osu Padthai Restaurant 10 Monrovia Rd Tel: 0302962788 East Legon
italian Arlecchino 674 Oxford St Tel: 0245 410 403 Osu
indian
Osu
Heritage indian off Salem Rd Noble Chinese Restaurant Bldg Tel: 0302785151
Little Indian Sunshine Salad Bar 11th Lane Tel: 030 2780599
Osu
Osu
Koh-I-Noor Grisfarm Hotel off First Tel: 030 2771999
Sankofa Restaurant Mövenpick Hotel Tel: 0302611000
Osu
Tandoor Indian near Land Tours Tel:0243 151 417
Bella Roma Fourth Lane Tel: 024 74 74 007
Labone
Osu
Basha Kojo Thompson Rd Niagara Hotel
Eddy’s Pizza 66 Ring Road Tel: 54 413 3397 central
Il Cavaliere Pezzo Accra Polo Grounds Tel: 0302 823131 Airport Res
Mama mia Pizzeria 7th Lane Tel: 0244 264 151 Osu
Osteria Michelangelos House No.3 Nortei Abadio St Tel: 024 4233533 Airport Res
Picasso Crown Apartamento Premises Tel: 0302771712 Airport Res
The Venue Adamafio link Tel: 024 3323425 East Legon
lebanese
Adabraka
Le Magellan Restaurant Ring Road East at Labone Junction Tel: 0302 777 629
Also serves French food. Osu
Le Tandem 6 Mankralo St Tel: 030 2762959 Livingstone Safari near Akai House across from Kohinoor Tel: 024 6485135 Osu
central
Seafood-grill, cocktail bar & cigar lounge, sushi/teppanyaki bar smoncnz@hotmail.com
spanish El gaucho Abrebrensem Tel: 0289117575 Osu
British honeysuckle bar Ring Rd Tel: 030 2780774 Osu
Bus Stop Bar & Restaurant
Ryan Irish Pub Troas St Tel: 030 2762334
Adabraka
Osu
The Lexington next to the Paloma Hotel in the Kokolemle neighbourhood Tel: 0240 959 406
French
Serves deep fried brie, bruschetta, burgers, pulled pork.
North Labone
Daily breakfast and lunch Buffet from Mon to Sat. Sunday Brunch Buffet. Dinner includes a starter buffet and a la carte main courses.
western Tel: 0302220930
Tel: 0244661069
La Chaumiere 215 Liberation Rd across ShangriLa Hotel
Tel: 0302772408 Airport Res
White Bell Cnr Farrar Av Adabraka Tel: 0302227066
Café Chez Des Amis Liberation Rd, Across from French Embassy
Frankies Cantonments Rd Tel: 0302 77 35 67
Le Must No 28, Orphan Crescent
Japanese 3121 Sushi 14th Lane Behind Barclays Tel: 026 777 3121
Monsoon 41 Oxford St Osu above Osu Food Court
Tel: 030 2782307
Cafe Josie’s Cuppa Cappuccino
3rd Close, Tel: 030 2773412 Airport Res
brunch melting moments No. 78/5, 1st Norla St Tel: 0302770834 Labone
Labadi Beach Hotel No.1 La Bypass Tel: 030 277 2501/6 La
La Palm Royal Beach Hotel No 5 La Bypass Rd Tel: 0302 215100 La
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shopping
supermarkets Koala Supermarket Off Danquah Circle at Cantonments Rd Tel: 0302773455
Excellent assortment of local and imported goods; bread selection is highly recommended. Carries Cottage Farms frozen pork. koalashop.com.gh Osu
inka Irene Armah, owner of Inka Accessories describes her line as ethnic, stylish, and eclectic. Her shop in Osu where she also works, is bursting with color and beautiful accessories. Every piece in her shop feels rare because Irene never repeats a design, every item is unique.
markets Makola Market Kojo Thompson Rd
Dominated by women this bustling market of Accra is situated right in the center of the city. There you will find: jewelry, fabrics, plastic hair decorations, traditional Ghanaian glass beads, batiks, wigs, bags, shoes, toiletries, as well as shea butter, fish, beans, meat, vegetables, fruit, flour, eggs, pots & pans, grills and much more. central
Malata Market Elephant Walk Rd
If you want a true local market experience, you’ll find it here. No tourists, no African masks, no tourist handcrafts, but you will have the opportunity to eat some authentic Ghanian fare
malls Accra Mall Spintex Rd, Tetteh Quarshie Interchange
accramall.com Airport Area
shoprite Accra Mall Tel: 0302823020 Airport Area
crafts Centre for National Culture 28th February Rd Tel: 021 664099
A sea of stalls selling arts and crafts. It is also referred to as the Arts Centre. This is the place to shop in Accra for crafts. The level of aggressive hassling may discourage you but if you have the patience you can come away with good-quality handicrafts from all over Ghana. central
Loom 117 Kwame Nkrumah Ave Tel: 0302224746
Sells spectacular paintings as well as woodcarvings, fabrics and statues. central Global Mamas 14th Lane Near Koala Supermarket Tel: 24 453 0467
globalmamas.org Osu Wild Gecko Handicrafts Near Tetteh Quarshie exchange Tel: 030 250 8500
Unique handcrafted furniture, household decorations, accessories & jewelry. www.wild-gecko.com Cantonments
Woodwork ABURI CARVING CENTer Akwapim Ridge On the way to the Aburi town center
Here craftmen can be seen at work on 26
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magnificent carvings and drums which are available for purchase. If you are feeling creative, you can actually design your own piece. ABURI
Jewelry Pmmc Mark Cofie Building Tel: 233 (0)302664579
Find diamonds and gold directly from local small-scale miners . Find a variety of jewelry we especially love the unique jewelry representing traditional Ghanaian symbols. pmmcghana.com central
Inka La Crescent TEl: 233 20 030 8618
Exquisite hand crafted African jewellery Osu Nyaniba Estate
modern Art Artists Alliance Omanye House Tel: 0245251404
A fantastic African modern art gallery located on the coast. Packed with artistic expression. Three floors of art, sculpture, carvings and artifacts. The best part is that most of it is for sale. artistsallianz.com LA
bookstores Silverbird bookstore Accra Mall Tel: 030 282 3270-5
Current fiction, nonfiction, business and religious books. Airport Area University Bookshop University of Ghana Legon Tel: 0302 500398
Current fiction, nonfiction & textbooks. Great if you are looking for books by local authors. Legon
fabric & fashion
A temple of high fashion fabrics. 14 artists create ever changing designs. Osu DA viva Boutique 17th Lane Tel: 0289529770
Pure cotton fabric with a subtle mix of elegance and color. Osu Kiki clothing Accra Mall Tel: 020 817 4362
Unique ethnic designs for children and adults. Airport Area
Winglow
13 Mensa Wood Street Tel: 0302510321
Exclusive embroidered wear for women and men. Western styled clothing in African print. Interior decoration utilizing a blend of African and other fabrics.
www.winglow.com East Legon Aya Morrison
23 Nii Bonnie Crescent Tel: 0302 956 355
Handbags, African print swimsuits & accessories Dzorwolu
ajePomaa Design Gallery No.8 Addo Close TEl: 026 564 5284
Higher Link
For gorgeous clothes East Legon
Higher Link For fast and easy customs clearing and forwarding
Located at the aviance cargo village Priscilla: (233) 244145647 Joe: (233) 240066188. White: (233) 233540898759 John: (233) 245045033
Woodin Boutique Oxford St Tel: 0302764371 g h a n a k e y . c om
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Accomodations
a fitness facility, wireless Internet in public areas. Cantonments The Aknac Hotel Trasacco Valley Tel: 233 302824235 theaknachotel.com
Labadi Beach Hotel From the contemporary Ghanaian décor to lush landscaped gardens and pool this hotel’s greatest asset is its consistent attention to detail. The newly renovated wing is a great addition with great comfortable king bed and thick carpeting.
resorts
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Labadi Beach Hotel No.1 La Bypass, Accra Tel: +233 (30) 277 2501/6 labadi@legacyhotels.com
La Palm Royal Beach Hotel 5 La Bypass Tel: 233 30221 5100/5111 gbhghana.net
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Featuring 152 rooms, each with its own private balcony, laid out in chalet fashion, creating the feeling of a village complete with 8 bars and restaurants, large swimming pool, souvenir shops, fitness center & casino. la
Luxury
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A refreshing taste of Africa in a classy establishment. Enjoy an enviable collection of African Art. A spa, a health club, outdoor pool, 28
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The Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel Independence Ave, Ridge Tel: +233 302611000 moevenpick.com
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Ideally located in the central business district of downtown Accra, close to major financial institutions, the International Conference Centre and government ministries. The Hotel has 260 rooms include 61 Executive Club Rooms, 15 Junior Suites with balconies and view of the Swimming Pool, one Ambassador Suite & a 320sqm Presidential Suite.
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Beautiful and well maintained. Includes a health club, an outdoor pool, a fitness facility, and a children’s pool, a business center, small meeting rooms, and secretarial services. la
The African Regent 237-238 Airport West, Tel: 233 302765180
In the peaceful suburbs of Accra near Trasacco Valley within easy reach of the city centre. This boutique hotel offers style, charm and personal service. Includes a restaurant, bars and an outdoor pool. Complimentary breakfast and wireless internet access.
Villa Monticello No.1A Mankata Ave Link Airport Residential Tel: 233 302773477 villamonticello.com
A boutique hotel in the heart of Accra with beautifully designed themed rooms - the Marrakech suite is our favorite. Restaurant, outdoor pool, full-service spa, bar/lounge. Televisions with digital channels.
moderate Afia African Village $65-170 2 Liberia Road Osu Tel: 233 302681465 afiavillage.com
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Afia African Village is sensitively designed to take full advantage of the expansive ocean views and cooling sea breezes. Its traditionally styled architecture evokes the very essence of Africa. Singles, doubles and family suites. Breakfast included. Bojo Beach Resort $160-270
Off the Old Weija Barrier Tel: 233.302.912.946 bojobeachresort.com
With 35 guestrooms and suites, this retreat in the suburbs of Accra is perfect if you are looking to be in the city but enjoy the privacy and luxury of being far away. Enjoy the ocean and mountain views as well as high speed wireless internet. Kokrobite
Starlite Lodge No 2 Volta River Ave. Teshi-Nungua Estates Tel: 233 302 712829 starlitelodge-ghana.com
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from $20 w/ breakfast Pink Hostel Tel: 233-302-256710/256712 phostel@busymail.com.gh Asylum Down from $20 (with continental breakfast)
Hillburi Aburi $150 Gyankama Tel: 0244385008 www.hillburi.com
Blending modern style with strong colonial and African influences, lovely comfortable king size beds, fluffy duvets and pillows and thick towels, spectacular views overlooking the surrounding hills. Includes a bar, restaurant, infinity swimming pool. Aburi Mahogany Lodge $175-195 No. 9, Kakramadu Link Tel: 233-302-761162 mahoganylodge.com
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Bedua Home Suites $40-60 Tel: 233-241-234-234 NO 58 Genesis Estates at Mariville off Spintex Road in a gated community
huts & cottages Big Milly’s Back Yard GHc17-125 Tel: 0249 999 330 or 0262 999 330 www.bigmilly.com
A very pretty courtyard with pool. Two computers with free wireless.
Twenty rooms, all have fans and are beautifully decorated with African art. Double huts are of local clay bricks with thatched roofs. Most cottages are self contained. Several have A/C. 150 trees and a large menagerie of pets in the garden. Entertainment on Friday and Saturday nights.
East Cantonments
Kokrobite
Bed & breakfast
holiday rentals
Spintex Inn $60 #1 Fourth Nii Kwaofio Link, Spintex Tel: 0207768243 spintexinn.com Spintex
Legassi Gardens Apartments ADDIS AVENUE,POKUASE JUNCTION, NEAR ACP ESTATES JUNCTION Tel: 233 277 522229 legassigardens@hotmail.com
Budget Blue Royal Hotel $69-$129 No 36. 18th lane off Cantoment Rd Tel: (0)302) 783075 blueroyalghana.com Osu New Ampax Hotel $20-40 Achimota Rd. Pokuake Junction Tel: (0)302-932158 ampaxhotelgh.com Asylum Down
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Frankies Cantonments rd. Tel: 0302 77 35 67 nii@frankiesghana.com Osu
Furnished and serviced apartments, in serene garden setting. Listen to our many birds, watch our garden butterflies, and play a game of Oware under the palm frond canopy! Convenience /craft store on-site & vegetarian cafĂŠ.
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La-Paradise Inn Tel: 233 302 762085 4th Ostwe Street South La Estate (Opposite Jokers Pub)
Right in the heart of vibrant Osu area, these apartments are surrounded by a diverse array of shops and restaurants. Each apartment has a modern living space with internet access and satellite t.v. Outside of the apartment enjoy the swimming pool and the tropical garden. la g h a n a k e y . c om
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transportation
Domestic Air:
Car Rentals:
Antrak Air Tel: (233) (0) 302 765377, 765378 antrakair.com
Atlas Rent-A-Car
Wholly Ghanaian owned has flights to Kumasi, Takoradi, Sunyani, Tamale and Wa.
ghana-car-rentals.com Tel: 0.264.264.246 ghana-car-rentals.com
Fly 540 Tel: (233) (0) 202 250 208 fly540africa.com
A one-stop-shop for online car hire in Ghana. With a wide selection of vehicles for personal as well as business car rental needs. Rental options range from saloon cars, to luxury cars, 4 wheel driven off-road cars, minivans and buses with competitive rates and unlimited mileage.
Offers internal flights to several locations around Ghana. They fly from Accra to Kumasi, Takoradi, Tamale and Sunyani.
Buses: STC (State Transport Corporation) Tel: (233-21) 221-912 or 252-835 or 221-314 The main, government owned and operated, intercity coaches. You should buy the tickets in advance so that you are given an assigned seat. Buses from Accra to Tamale leave daily at 7am and 3pm, a 9 am bus continues on to Bolgatanga. Buses from Tamale to Accra run daily at 6.30am and 4pm, Kumasi at 7am (10am weekends). A service from Tamale to Takoradi runs twice a week, at 8am on Tuesdays and 3pm on Saturday. VIP Tel: 0544357030, 0544357038 vipjeoun@yahoo.com
Air conditioned clean buses to Kumasi. There are two levels of bus – one with larger seats and more leg room for marginally more money. Buses run frequently all day and night. A good alternative for a long drive. OA Travel and Tours Tel: 0243-3177620 Tamale: 0242-767694 / 0208-083644 Kumasi: 03220-41925
200m from STC station in Accra, OA offers very new buses for a reasonable price. Leaving at 3pm daily from Bolgatanga to Accra, GHc30.00. It leaves Tamale to Accra daily at 5pm, for GHc25.00. Booking tickets in advance is recommended.
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Tel: 024 427 7871