KEY Ghana September/October, 2013 Issue

key a magazine for travelers by travelers • September / October 2013

ghana

g h a n a’s

o n ly

free v is it o r ’s

g u id e

Exploring the Past Ghana’s castles stir the imagination and offer concrete testimony to the drama of human history the slave trade

+ CHALE WOTE STREET ART FESTIVAL Accra’s Third Annual Art Festival

p. 12

p. 5

Tel: 0302 762576; 0245 251404 • Fax: 021 762379 E-mail:niiglo@gmail.com or info@artistsallianz.com Box LA 348, La, Accra • artistsallianz.com Opening Hours: Monday – Saturday : 9.00am - 6:00pm Sunday: 12noon - 6:00pm or by appointment

Key Ghana • volume 11 / 2013

sept & oct co n te n ts

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Exploring the Past

See two of the most sought-after sites in Africa: Cape Coast and Elmina Castles 8

Coming events

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Dining index

From fine dining to street food in Accra 26

Shopping index From neighborhood markets to unique boutiques

Discover Accra’s music, performing arts, galleries, sports etc.

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Luxury to budget hotels and holiday rentals

map

Explore Accra This travel map includes streets & locations 18

beyond Accra

Discover Ghana beyond Accra this month we feature the Northern Region 22

Entertainment index

Discover Accra’s many venues for music, film & theater

Accommodation index 30

Transportation index

key ghana

Key Ghana LTD

P.O. Box AT 517 Achimota - Accra Laure Leplae-Arthur, Creative

Director - laurearthur@ghanakey.com Nana Nketsia-Eshun, Country Rep.

& Accounts Executive, nnketsia@ ghanakey.com ghanakey.com This magazine is authorized by KEY MAGAZINES INC.

KeyMagazine.com

To Advertise Call: + 233 244 471 752 or (414) 759 9245

Cargo – Faustin Linyekula p.13

Cover photo by Gerard Nartey

editor’s letter Learning how to make pepper for Kenkey.

Cooling off in the LaPalm pool.

Walking through a small village near Tamale.

New day rising

At Labadi Beach Hotel putting our table on the lawn, made a perfect setting for evening cocktails.

As we experience the African renaissance no where do we see it more than in Accra; this is why we felt that there was a need for a creative and innovative magazine for travelers in this ever changing city. Our mission at Key Ghana is to make your travel more meaningful and more memorable by exploring more authentic and enriching ways of visiting this modern African city.

We encourage travelers to celebrate the things that are otherwise taken for granted when traveling. Take

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It is amazing how our sense of time changes when we are in Ghana. Our life revolves less around time and more around enjoyable moments.

the time to discover local markets, and small neighborhood businesses. We suggest that you learn to buy and cook local food, learn how to live like locals. In the process, you may meet the owner of a market stand or you may greet someone on the street.

This is when you will realize that it is from these little interactions that you will learn the most about this rich culture.

We hope that you enjoy this issue of Key Ghana, which is focused on giving you advice, tips and stories that will make your stay in Accra more meaningful and memorable.

Now find Key Ghana Magazine at the Ghana Embassy in the U.S., Kotoka International Airport, The National Theater of Ghana, The Alliance Française, key hotels and key restaurants.

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Jouney into Ghana’s

past life ////////

hen traffic cooperates, it’s a three-hour ride from Accra to Cape Coast . Two of

the most sought-after sites in Ghana are the centuries-old Cape Coast and Elmina Castles, which are open for guided tours. They are two of several colonial-era compounds in which captured Africans were held in dungeons during the slave trade era.

Start by visiting the Cape Coast Castle’s small museum. No amount of imagination can match what a visitor feels as he sees neck, wrist and ankle shackles, and branding irons used to sear a mark into the skin of a newly captured African.

Outside, a big wooden door opens to reveal an arched brick ceiling above a stone walkway that slopes down to a holding cell. Air and light enter only through three small openings near the ceiling. Crowding into this dungeon is almost unbearable with a small tour group, and the thought that hundreds were once locked up here for days, with

minimal provisions is unbearable.

It served as sleeping, eating and bathroom quarters for hundreds of people at any given time, and walls bear the remnants of the fingernails, skin and blood of those who tried to claw their way out.

From this cell is a passage to another underground room that has been converted into a shrine to all those held in the dungeon.

Memorial wreaths, including one donated by President Barack Obama and his family in 2009 line the wall.

Captivity in the dungeons ended when the slaves were led above ground, blinded by their first exposure to sunlight in months, they would be herded through the courtyard to the exit that became known as the Door of No Return to the slave trader’s ship. If they survived, they would be sold in the New World.

Children $2.00 / Students with ID $4.00 / Adult $7.00 The castles are open from 9:00am to 4:30pm daily. Tel +233-3321 32529

No amount of reading can match what a visitor feels when seeing the dungeons and the shackles used during the slave trade. Top row: Door of No Return, Cape Coast Castle, Shackles at the Cape Coast Castle Museum. Middle row: Male Dungeon. Bottom row: window to the ocean, aerial view of Cape Coast Castle, Female Dungeon.

Se p t - Oc t

coming events Chale Wote 2013 Bless the Mic Sept 23-28

Various locations A consistent avenue for emerging and established artists to share their talents, hone their skills, and network with industry professionals

Accra International Marathon September 29 5:30 am start

Sept 7 10am-9pm, Sept 8 10am-8pm James Town

The third annual CHALE WOTE Street Art Festival is an alternative platform that brings alive the magic of art, music and dance along High Street in James Town, Accra. The festival re-imagines African folktales through a variety of art forms - graffiti murals, large photography exhibitions, interactive art installations, live street performances, extreme sports stunting, an African film festival, a fashion parade, a DJ block party, beach music concert, fashion and food marketplace, and much more.

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Prampran to Labadi Beach Mark your calendar to run or walk at the Seventh Annual Accra International Marathon to keep Africa Alive!

Register for the Marathon, Half-Marathon, 10K or Team Relay. aimghana.com

events- Theater enigmatic beings facing an environment that they themselves have created.

10Ghc, 5Ghc for AF students and members, free for children under 12 Alliance Française, 7:30pm

October Gone with the feet

Theater September

erjk Song of the Pharaoh This new musical-dance drama tells a story of love, incest, and betrayal, and of political and religious transformation in ancient Egypt. It combines Ghanaian traditional musical and dance forms with an eclectic, creative blend of styles from Egypt and Africa. The play focuses on the rise and fall of the enlightened Pharaoh Akhenaten who ruled Egypt during a time of growth and artistic flourishing. It also tells the tale of his love for his beautiful wife Nefertiti and the family betrayals that shaped their rule and changed the history of Egypt and

the modern world. 40 Ghc at the gate, 30 Ghc in advance, National Theatre 7:30pm

g Circuits Fermes – Cie De Fracto Circus Winner of Jeunes Talents Cirque Europe 2010, Defracto is a young performing arts company whose ambition is to develop a body language and a juggled language. With the show Circuits fermés, Guillaume Martinet and Minh Tam Kaplan perform a delirious duet with obsessive and animal-like intimacy.

It is the interaction of two

g Gone with the feet Puppet Show

By Laura Kibel, an award winning musician, costume and set designer for both theatre and cinema.

In her show Gone with the feet the puppets she uses are actually performed using different parts of her own body. The leading characters are played by her feet, knees, hands, legs and her stomach. All the elements of the show from the sound track to the handmade noses, masks, costumes and props to the stories and fables are uniquely created

by Laura. Free, Alliance Française 6:30pm

Circuits Fermes – Cie De Fracto

Alliance Française Liberation Link, Airport Area Tel: 0302 77 31 34 / afaccra.com National Theater of Ghana South Liberia Rd, Victoriaborg district Tel: 0244272884 g h a n a k e y . com 9

events- music o La Paillote Takpekpe Orientale - Abaji This Lebanese born, multi-instrumentalist (playing the clarinet, percussion, oud, bouzouki, flutes, etc…) sings authentic Mediterranean blues. Abaji has been collaborating with Ghanaian musicians to create a beautiful live performance mixing a whole range of instruments and styles. 2 Ghc, 1Ghcfor AF students and members, Alliance Française, 7:30

Bambouman

music Enjoy Ghana’s many styles of traditional and modern music, coming from a multiplicity of ethnic groups & its geographic position in Africa.

a Abaji will also be performing at the Alliance Française Kumasi.

For more information, call 0242-686212 or information@afkumasi.org f-l Bless The Mic

September

t France - Germany Friendship Concert This concert is to celebrate the 50 anniversary of the 1963 Élysée Friendship Treaty between France and Germany. Led by German conductor, Markus Baisch and renowned violinist, Frédéric Pélassy from France. One part will feature music from German composers and another highlights music from the opera Carmen by Bizet with the Tema Youth Choir, the Nima School Children’s Choir and opera singers from Ghana.

VIP: Ghc60, Adult: Ghc30, Student: Ghc10 VIP includes: Preferred seating + refreshments & hors d’oeuvres before, during Intermission, and after the concert. For details contact: Russell Coombs Tel: 024-4687915, nsogh@yahoo.com National Theatre, 7:30pm

National Symphony of Ghana 10

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Arts This is one of the most energetic events in Ghana and this year marks its 5th anniversary of celebrating and promoting global arts. Organized

by Mi Prime Entertainment, this event brings together popular Ghanaian musicians and other artists worldwide including unsigned musicians to

events- music

Bless The Mic showcase their talent.

There will be a hip hop stage, allowing young hip hop artists to rhyme and battle. Recognizing that art is more than music, the festival also allows artisans and fashion designers to showcase their work. This year’s theme is Sustaining the creative arts for the next generation.

Sep 23: Opening, Alliance Francaise, Free Sep 25: Acoustic & Poetry Night. An evening of spoken word poetry and acoustic music. 30 GhC National Theatre, 7pm Sep 26: Annual Music Forum Theme: Ghanaian music crossing international boundaries Topic: Song Writing, Branding & Presenting Strictly By Invitation British Council, 5pm Sep 27: Rising Stars of Ghana HIP-HOP Concert Alliance Francaise 15 Ghc, 7Ghc for AF students and members Sept 28:

Kids Village Day Festival 10am – 6pm Live Concert, 7pm 20 Ghc (Family Package + free drink & popcorn) 10 Ghc Single Entry, 5 Ghc for AF students and members, Alliance française

October

w Fran Molina Jazzpanish project In honor of Spanish National Day, flamenco jazz guitarist Fran Molina and a host of Ghanain music talents will be performing in a special recital that will captivate listeners. Fran Molina is influenced by such great

guitarists as Jim Hall, Paco de Lucia, George Benson and Pat Metheny.

He has played all over Spain, toured the world playing in numerous international jazz festivals and shared the stage with Elvin Jones, Jean Luc Ponty, Ray Barreto among other international musicians.

10Ghc / 5Ghc for AF students and members, Alliance française, 8 pm

o Bambouman Laurent Phenis also known as Bambouman is from Martinique and since childhood has had a passion for music. Starting with drum kits he joined several bands, later, he decided to settle in Martinique where he made ​​his first bamboo instrument, and developed the bamboumuzik which is mainly composed with bamboo instruments.

There will also be a professional bamboo instrument building workshop during this time at the Arts Centre and a musical awakening workshops for schools.

10Ghc / 5Ghc for AF students and members, Alliance française, 8 pm October

Fran Molina Jazzpanish project

Alliance Française Liberation Link, Airport Area Tel: 0302 77 31 34 / afaccra.com National Theater of Ghana South Liberia Rd, Victoriaborg district Tel: 0244272884 g h a n a k e y . com

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events - art 4-p State of the 7-8 Chale Wote World’s Children Street Art Festival UNICEF Photography The third annual Chale Wote Street Art Festival Exhibition The two week exhibition curated by UNIis an alternative platform CEF in collaboration with that brings alive the magic the Ministry of Education, of art, music and dance Ministry of Gender, Chilalong High Street in James dren and Social Protection Town, Accra. The festias well as the Alliance val re-imagines African Française will highlight 24 folktales through a variety highly evocative portraits of Ghanaian children living of art forms - graffiti murals, with disabilities. This year’s photography exhibitions, exhibition which is part interactive art installations, of the country launch of live street performances, the State of the World’s extreme sports stunting, Children, UNICEF’s annual an African film festival, a Chale Wote Street Festival flagship publication aims fashion parade, a DJ block to give a strong voice as party, beach music concert, well as inspire understandfashion, food marketplace, ing of challenges faced by children living with disabili- and much more. 200 local + international Artists. 2 ties. All photographs are days. Too much free fun.

by Nyani Quarmyne, an For more information go to: September internationally renowned Ghanaian photographer. accradotalttours.wordpress.com Free, Alliance Française James Town, Sat: 10amExhibition: Post Oil City 9pm, Sun:10am - 8pm As much about the future as it is about the past, this exhibition is subtitled The History of the City’s Future – every vision of the future is based on a vision of the past. Contrasting 11 current projects in the field of sustainable urban planning with 9 from the past, the exhibit aims to show that many of today’s developments have their roots in the urban utopias. Goethe-Institut, until UNICEF Photography Exhibition, photo by Nyani Quarmyne October 7

art

Alliance Française Liberation Link, Airport Area Tel: 0302 77 31 34 / afaccra.com Goethe-Institut 30 Kakramadu Rd (next to NAFTI ) Cantonments Tel: 0302 779 769 goethe.de 12

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events- DANCE

Dance October

4 Banlieue – Cie Diagn’Art A dance show that blends traditional African dance and contemporary dance supported

by Roland Fichet’s texts.

This show presented by the Senegalese choreographer Alioune Diagne from Diagn’Art company is both light and serious. Accompanied by two dancers

Banlieue – Cie Diagn’Art

Madiba Badio and Seydou Camara, they interpret the lives of three young men hesitating between recklessness, carelessness, laziness and rebellion, a situation that many young people from the suburbs face. The first part of the show has been created by the Noyam African Dance Institute. 10 Ghc / 5 Ghc for AF students and members, Children under 12 free Alliance française main stage, 7:30 pm

z Cargo – Faustin Linyekula An internationally recognized dancer, choreographer and director, Faustin Linyekula lives and works in Kisangani (Democratic Republic of Congo). After several years of working in Kenya, he has returned to DRC where he created the centre for creation and

exchange in dance and visual arts: Kabako studios.

In Cargo, Faustin Linyekula tells stories of his country, stories of traumatized and abused bodies and destinies... The choreographer expresses all this and much more through his unique and captivating solo dances. 10Ghc / 5Ghc for AF students and members, Children under 12 free Alliance française main stage, 7:30 pm

Alliance Française Liberation Link, Airport Area Tel: 0302 77 31 34 / afaccra.com

Sports September

; 2013 Accra International Marathon Run or walk at the Seventh Annual Accra International Marathon to keep Africa Alive! Events include the Marathon, Half-Marathon, 10K and

Team Relay. Once again, the finish line will be hosted on the beautiful grounds of the Labadi Beach Hotel. It runs from the beach town of Pram-

pram, through Tema – a port city east of the capital – and on to the baked sands of Labadi Beach in Accra. The marathon supports the Longevity Project – an initiative dedicated to increasing the life expectancy of Ghanaians. www.aimghana.com anna@aimghana.com Prampran to Labadi Beach 5.30 am start

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events - festivals

festivals Festivals are very important in many ways, historically, religiously, socially, economically & culturally. This is a great opportunity to witness Ghana’s rich cultural heritage.

Fetu Afahye Festival in Cape Coast

September Fetu Afahye Starts on the 1st Saturday of September, Cape Coast As the story is told, there was a devastating 14

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outbreak of a disease in Cape Coast and it is believed that with the help of the gods, the people were able to eradicate the epidemic hence the name Fetu from Efin Tu which means eradicating dirt

from the people. Before the actual festival celebration, the Omanhen is confined for a week, during which he goes into a long period of meditation seeking wisdom.

As tradition demands, before the festival, there is a ban on drumming and fishing. On the last Monday in August, a vigil takes place at the Fosu Lagoon.

During this night, people gather in large numbers to witness a display of priests and priestesses until day break. A Bakatue (Opening up the river) event is heralded amidst the firing of musketry. The Omanhen then casts his net three times into the lagoon, amid cheers to lift the ban on fishing. A procession of chiefs through Cape Coast to Victoria Square is held on that Saturday. On Sunday, a church service is held to thank God for having helped the people through their endearvours.

Odwira (Harvest/Thanksgiving) Celebrated in most Akwapim towns during September and October.

Odwira is an Akan word which means purification.

The festival is therefore a period of purification and cleansing. Before the celebration of the actual festival, a period of forty days is declared as a period for meditation and rest.

This period is known as

events - festivals

Adaabutuw. First day, which is most often a Monday is set aside for clearing the path leading to the royal mausoleum.

On the second day, there is a taboo for any Akuapem citizen to eat new yam. On the third day relatives especially those who died during the past year are remembered.

Forth day is declared as the feasting day. On Friday, the festival is crowned with a grand durbar of chiefs.

Akwantutenten September/October Worawora, Volta Region History has it that, the people of Worawora migrated from Kuntenase near Lake Bosomtwe in the Ashanti Region to

their present settlement in 1774. The long trip made by the people from Ashanti Region to the Volta Region inspired the name of the festival which is The Long Journey.

This period of time is also noted for bringing together the people of Asante and that of Worawora in the Volta Region of Ghana.

October Kobine Festival October Lawra, Upper West Region This 4 day festival serves as both a harvest celebration and as a homecoming for people who have left Lawra.

The first day serves as a day of rest for those who

have traveled from far away. The second and third days are the official festival days. The festival begins with the procession of the traditional chiefs.

Each festival participant is clothed with their most beautiful smocks while walking under huge parasols. The procession is led to the festival ground by a group of men portraying elephant hunters. The hunters are dressed in traditional hunting atire, including bows and arrows and are accompanied by a large group of musicians and drummers from the Lawra Chief’s palace.

MAKOLA MARKET • TEL: 0244 601181 g h a n a k e y . com

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beyond Accra Beyond Accra discover unique wildlife, historical monuments and so much more.

Castles & forts Cape Coast Castle

After the passage of numerous foreign powers, this castle became a British possession in 1664. Millions of slaves were shipped to the Caribbean and the United States through this castle before becoming the seat of British colonial administration. The cannons still face seaward, stirring the imagination to scenes of exploration, discovery and great tragedy. The Museum of West African History, describes the role that 18

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these great structures played in the slave trade.

areas for the human cargo of the infamous slave trade.

Elmina castle

Fort St. Jago

Ten kilometers west of Cape Coast Castle, Elmina Castle is the earliest known European structure in the tropics. Built in 1482 by the Portuguese during early world exploration, the castle was taken over by the Dutch in 1637, who retained control for 274 years. Inside the vast fortification is the first Catholic church in SubSahara Africa. The Castle’s damp, unlit dungeons served as horrific holding

Walking distance from Elmina Castle, this fort unlike others was not used for trading activities but provided military protection to Elmina Castle. Be sure to bring your camera since it provides an excellent view.

Axim - Fort Santo Antonio

Built by the Portuguese in 1515 and expanded between 1642 and 1872 by the Dutch. It is now run by the Ghana Museums and Monuments Board and is

Wildlife Shai Hills Resource Reserve

The closest wildlife park to Accra. The vegetation of Shai Hills is dry, coastal evergreen savannah and 40% of the park is made up of hills covered with dry forest. Major wildlife to be seen include olive baboons, green monkeys, kobs and bushbucks, as well as monitor lizards, pythons and snakes. Bird lovers will also find many bird species including the Senegal Parrot, Grey Plantain Eater, Hornbill, Red Northern Bishop and Violet Turaco and many more. Don’t miss a to visit to one of the three caves, Adwuku, Sayu or Hiewey Mole National Park

Mole is about a 1 hour drive from Tamale.

Tamale is about 600 km from Accra (a 13 hour bus ride, or a 1 hour 20 min plane ride) The largest of its kind in Ghana. Its savannah woodland and forested areas cover a staggering space which measures just less than 5000 square kilometers. You can expect to see antelope, elephants, baboons, warthogs, buffalo, hyenas and if you’re very lucky, a leopard.

Lions have recently been re-introduced to the park as well. There are also more than 250 species of birds to enjoy. The park has a simple motel with a pool and restaurant located directly above the elephants’ bathing pond.

Owabi Forest Reserve and Bird Sanctuary

15km from Kumasi Winter home to a variety of migratory birds as well as tropical birds who live there year round.

Also home to hundreds of the endangered Mona Monkeys. Further to the northeast is the Bomfobiri Wildlife Sanctuary, containing the spectacular Bomfobiri Falls. The salt marshes of the Songow Lagoon are also worth seeing.

Lake Volta

At Akosombo Dam, board the Yapei Queen ferry and cruise up massive Lake Volta on a 24-hour trip past wooded hills and farming villages and into Ghana’s arid north, docking at Yeji.

Amansuri wetland

90 km west of Takoradi A complex of peat, swamp and mangrove forests, flood plains, and sandy shores with streams, rivers, a fresh water lake, lagoons and the sea as environmental features.

It is the largest intact swamp forest in Ghana

ra Acc e nd lif yo l d Be W i

open to the public. Look for the beautiful off-shore islands and lighthouse.

and home to many species of plants and animals. Ninety-three of these species made up of reptiles, mammals and birds are of global and national conservation interest.

Birding Ghana Bird Walks

Join a monthly bird walk on the last Saturday of every month from 7am to 9am. The birding site and meeting point for each month will be communicated.

Contact Samuel Temidayo Tel: 0234237732 taymida@yahoo.co.uk or Reuben Ottou Tel: 0244 893 528 reubenott@yahoo.co.uk Bobiri Butterfly Sanctuary

Located 30km from Kumasi and about 25km from Konogo, along the Kumasi-Accra highway.

Tel: 024 646 5993, A bewildering experience as clouds of mud-puddling Whites and Yellows take flight as well as Swallowtails and Pure Gold or Red Gliders, Mother-of-Pearls’. The butterflies are plentiful.

There are also very good guided tours of the plants, explaining their interesting commercial and medicinal uses. The guesthouse on site serves basic food, and has a pleasant staff. g h a n a k e y . com

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N o Be yo rt n d h e Acc rn RE ra gio n

Northern Region Sitting below Burkina Faso, this Region is known for its wildlife and traditional architecture. Tamale, the capital, is reputed to be one of the fastest growing cities in West Africa. In contrast villages like Zozugu stay very authentic and traditional.

To get a real wild feeling visit Mole National Park where you literally take a step into the wild. Traveling from the capital, Accra, to Northern Ghana is quite an adventure. By bus, you get a great view of Ghana’s phenomenal landscape, as well as a sampling of Ghana’s traditional food at its many food stops along the way.

Tamale

When you visit this fast paced city, there is not a second to lose. Start with the cultural center, similar to the one in Accra, with much less hassle. Here you can find a variety of items to make your trip memorable, make sure to admire Kente cloth being

Tamale woven right before your eyes. While there, do not be surprised if you get talked into playing a game of table tennis with some of the locals. Afterwards, stop and have a drink at Sparkles, relax and admire life around you. Walking distance, is the central market, where you can find beautiful cloth and scarves, see people selling food and

just about anything else.

Zozugu village

If you have a desire to get a glimpse Ghana’s traditional culture, Zozugu village is a good option. There, one house (compound) consists of several huts connected by mud walls surrounding a central area. As you interact with the people, you will have the opportunity to meet a local doctor, school teachers and much more.

It is interesting to see how an entire village comes together to become one big family. The nature surrounding the village is surreal and beautiful.

Mole National Park 20

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Zozugu village Mole National Park

It is definitely worth spending the night at Mole National Park. The tour guide will help you track down elephants, antelopes and other less visible animals. Others are less shy and you will see them around the motel. These include baboons, warthogs,

Gambaga

n paw K ol

ra n Acc E g i o nd R yo r n Be t h e r no

Wulugu

UPPER WEST

Gushiago

e Volta Whit Daboya

NORTHERN Yendi

Tamale

Sawla Bole

Zabzugu Japei

ka

larabanga Mosque

Da

Damongo

Bimbila

lta

Black Vo

Bui National Park

Oti

Mole National Park

Salaga

Kyabobo Ran Nat’l Park

Makongo road conditions

STAY Yeji Larabanga Mosque Asempa Lodge Just south of Mole National Bamboi Kintampo A series of huts, Park, in the village of Dumbai Sampa by a large Larabanga B R O N G - A H surrounded AFO garden with a variety of Kete Krachi Center for National animals. Opposite SOS Kwadjokrom Wenchi Culture u Children’s Tamale P r Village, Atebubu V O LTA Central Tamale Ta i n Tel: 233 (0) 207 09 00 65 Kadjebi Techiman Central Market Berekum Digya asempalodge.com Central Tamale National Park African Dream Hotel Central Mosque Tamale Central Tamale Tel: 233 (0) 37 20 91 127

Larabanga Mosque antelopes and even elephants.

Imagine waking up to groups of baboons right outside your window! The rooms that Mole National Park offer are basic, however there is a nice pool with a beautiful view over the park. Enjoy dinner by the pool, however watch out for the baboons, they have been know to jump onto tables to get their share of the meal!

africandreamhotel@yahoo.com Mole Motel Mole National Park Tel: 233 (0) 277564444

Village of Zozugu Behind Asempe Lodge

getting there

Antrak flies between EAT A N D D RI N K Tamale and Accra (US $144, 1¼ hours). From Sparkles Restaurant the STC station, two A casual meeting place for volunteers and tourists buses a day go to Kumasi (US $10, six hours) and At the Cultural Centre. four a day depart for Central Tamale Accra (ordinary/luxury US $10/16, 12 hours). There’s VI SI T also a Tuesday service to Mole National Park Cape Coast and Takoradi In the northern part of ($11, 12 hours).

Damongo, one hour drive from Tamale depending on g h a n a k e y . com

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Entertainment nightlife

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Aphrodisiac 35 Osu Badu Street, Dzorwulu Tel: 0302 766 738

DJs serve a mix of hip hop and R&B, hip life, garage and techno. Ladies night on Thursdays.

Fridays DJ Flava Nite open from 11pm - 6am

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+233 jazz bar & grill 75 Ring Rd, North Ridge Tel: 0244 276 027

Jokers Labadi Road, La Tel: 024 4370752

Not very far from La Beach, this is a very popular place to play pool, tourists & locals meet here to have a drink and a game.

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The Lexington next to Paloma Hotel, Kokolemle Tel: (0) 240 959 406

Ghana’s premiere jazz and live music club.

Open until 4 am on week-ends

An upscale lounge/sports bar specializing in cocktails with fancy bar snacks frequented by ex-pats and locals alike.

Bywell Okodan Rd off of Oxford St, Osu Tel: 0302767793

Next Door Beach Resort Beach Road, Teshie (opposite the Military Academy) Tel: 024 4318697

Thursdays a live band performs high life music.

6pm -1 am.

Citizen Kofi

1

(presently closed for renovation) Duplex 2nd Kuku close off oxford st, Osu

Definitely the most down to earth place you will find.

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Jazztone No.3 Third Ringway, Airport Res. Tel: 0302 761082

Live Entertainment Fri & Sat from 8:30 pm

Live music on weekends, Sunday afternoons catch some traditional song and dance performances.

The one2one Bar MĂśvenpick Hotel, Central

A chic cocktail bar where you can escape, socialize and launch your evening in style to the sound of African lounge music or live performances.

The Republic Bar & Grill 3rd Lane Kuku Hill, Osu Tel: 024 631 4044

This place has quickly become the hot spot in Accra. Like the every-week-kind-of-spot to chill, catch up with friends, and listen to some cool music over beer and food.

Robi Dutch Pub Dade walkstreet 14, Labone Tel: 0242201087

The only authentic Dutch pub in Ghana, with Dutch cuisine, beer, music and ambiance.

Taverna Tropicana Palm Link, Nima Tel: 024 530 4505

Enjoy some great cuisine and some of the best live music in Accra.

+233 jazz bar & grill 22

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arts & culture film Silverbird Cinema First Floor, Shop 39, Accra Mall, Tetteh Quashie Interchange Tel: 021 823270-4

LaPalm Hotel Tel: 0245251404

silverbirdghana.com

A fantastic African modern art gallery located right on the coast. The gallery is huge and more museum-like; three floors of fabric, paintings, sculptures, and odds and ends like coins and games.

Goethe-Institut 30 Kakramadu Rd, Cantonments Tel: 0302 779 769

Hershel Gallery Mankrato St, East Cantonments Tel: 0243380668

Regularly show films on Thursdays. www. goethe.de

herschelgallery.com

Drama / music Alliance Française Accra Liberation Link - Airport Residential Tel: 0302 773 134

A large producer of cultural events in Accra, including live music, poetry readings, theater, art exhibits and much more, that reflect the diversity and the quality of France and Africa’s artistic offer. afaccra.com National Theatre of Ghana South Liberia Road, Central Tel: 0244272884

This elegant and imposing theater is the hub of music and theater in Accra. It houses The National Symphony Orchestra, The National Dance Company and The National Drama Company. It is also a regular venue for Ghana’s world acclaimed satirist Kwaku Sintim-Misa popularly called KSM. Nubuke foundation 7 Adamafio Close, East Legon Tel: 028 910 21 63

nubukefoundation.org Enjoy programs ranging from drama and music to art exhibitions, poetry, and films.

Art Afia gallery No. 2 Liberia Rd Ext, Osu Tel: 0302 681465

Packed with local wood carvings and crafts. afiavillage.com Artists Alliance Gallery Omanye House. Beach Rd, La before

Kane Kwei Carpentry Workshop Teshie First Junction TEL: 0244 114719 / 5

Workshop of Seth Kane Kwei who invented the famous design coffins in the 1950’s which are carved into shapes that represent something important and relevant to the deceased person, such as a fish, airplanes, etc. Meet Eric Adjetey Anang, grandson of Kane Kwei, and hear stories about these fantastic coffins.

history Kwame Nkrumah Mausoleum & Museum High St., central Tel: 233 671 610

An obligatory visit for history buffs. Dr. Nkrumah serves as a loose approximation of George Washington for Ghana. This museum is an introduction to a complex personality. It is a great source of information, including photos of Nkrumah with a wide range of world leaders, his books, his clothing, and artifacts.

National Museum of Ghana Accra Barnes Rd, central Tel: 021-221633

Established in 1957, this museum’s collection ranges from pre-historic, archaeological discoveries, to colonial antiquities and exhibits of contemporary African art. Don’t miss the outdoor sculpture garden. Open from 9am 5pm Tuesday through Sunday W.E.B. Dubois Center 2nd circular Rd, Cantonments

This is the home, library and final resting place of American-born crusader for social justice, William Edward Burghardt DuBois.

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dining Cantonments Rd Near MTN store Tel: 030 2773754 Osu

chop bars

Le Must

African Ghanaian Village Restaurant La Palm Royal Beach Hotel No 5 La Bypass Rd Tel: 0302 215100 La

Buka

10th Lane Tel: 030 2782953 osu

Christine’s Unique Café 150m off Ring Rd at Nima Junction Tel: 0302 222 265 Chez Afrique Near Yemoh Plaza Tel: 030 2911591 East Legon

Country kitchen 2nd Ringway Estates Tel: 0302229107 Osu

Le Grand 24

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Ecuyer Ring Road, just west of Danquah Circle Tel: 0302 768 64 Maquis Tante Marie 5th Norla Link Tel: 0244612832

maquistantemarie.com Labone

Next Door Restaurant Beach Rd (op. the Military Academy) Tel: 024-4318697

next-door.com Teshie Old Bob’s Place Niger Hse, 59 Okadan Tel: 028 8266378 Osu

The Orangery Crepe & salad bar Farrar Ave Tel: 030 2232988 Adabraka

papaye

Chicken Republic Cantonments Rd south of Papaye Tel: 030 2775496

Chop Bars range from a woman serving dishes out of a bowl on the side of the road to sit down spots with full kitchens.

Here are few that we recommend:

Osu

Asanka Local 18th lane Tel: 0302786328

Royal Dragon Chinese Restaurant La Palm Royal Beach Hotel No 5 La Bypass Rd Tel: 0302 215100

This is good place to go if you are looking for a local experience.

Find delicacies like Banku, fufu, soups, chicken etc. osu Auntie Muni Waakye off Josiah Tongogari St & orphan cres., TEL: 233246980070

Though it looks like little more than a roadside stand Aunti Muni’s is one of the most popular spots for weekend Wakeye.

Cantonments

Peace Palace off of 6th st accross ecobank osu

seafood Captain Hooks 4 Kakramandu St Tel: 0302762228 Cantonments

fast food Barcelos Op. Dynasty Chinese Tel: 030 2933784 Osu

KFC Cantonments Rd Osu

ASian

La

Dynasty restaurant Oxford St Tel: 030 2775496 Osu

Nobel House Kuku Hill, Salem Rd Tel: 0302785151 Osu

Zion Thai Restaurant Okodan & mission St Papaye Down Tel: 054-996-7644

Try spicy penang curry, true pad thai, and lots of vegetarian options. Afterwards, enjoy a sweetened Thai iced tea. Osu Padthai Restaurant 10 Monrovia Rd Tel: 0302962788 East Legon

italian Arlecchino 674 Oxford St

dining Tel: 0245 410 403

Tel: 030 2771999

Osu

Osu

Bella Roma Fourth Lane Tel: 024 74 74 007

Tandoor Indian near Land Tours Tel:0243 151 417

Osu

Labone

Eddy’s Pizza 66 Ring Road Tel: 54 413 3397

lebanese

central

Il Cavaliere Pezzo Accra Polo Grounds Tel: 0302 823131 Airport Res

Mama mia Pizzeria 7th Lane Tel: 0244 264 151

Basha Kojo Thompson Rd Niagara Hotel Adabraka

Le Magellan Restaurant Ring Road East at Labone Junction Tel: 0302 777 629

Also serves French food. Osu

Osu

western

Osteria Michelangelos House No.3 Nortei Abadio St Tel: 024 4233533

Bus Stop Bar & Restaurant

Airport Res

Picasso Crown Apartamento Premises Tel: 0302771712 Airport Res

The Venue Adamafio link Tel: 024 3323425 East Legon

indian Heritage indian off Salem Rd Noble Chinese Restaurant Bldg Tel: 0302785151 Osu

Koh-I-Noor Grisfarm Hotel off First

Tel: 0302220930 Adabraka

The Lexington next to the Paloma Hotel in the Kokolemle neighbourhood Tel: 0240 959 406

Serves deep fried brie, bruschetta, burgers, pulled pork.

White Bell Cnr Farrar Av Adabraka Tel: 0302227066 Frankies Cantonments Rd Tel: 0302 77 35 67 Osu

Little Indian Sunshine Salad Bar 11th Lane Tel: 030 2780599 Osu

Tel: 024 6485135 Sankofa Restaurant Mövenpick Hotel Tel: 0302611000 central

spanish El gaucho Abrebrensem Tel: 0289117575 Osu

British honeysuckle bar Ring Rd Tel: 030 2780774 Osu

Ryan Irish Pub Troas St Tel: 030 2762334 Osu

Osu

Japanese 3121 Sushi 14th Lane Behind Barclays Tel: 026 777 3121

Seafood-grill, cocktail bar & cigar lounge, sushi/teppanyaki bar smoncnz@hotmail.com Monsoon 41 Oxford St Osu above Osu Food Court

Tel: 030 2782307

Cafe Josie’s Cuppa Cappuccino

3rd Close, Tel: 030 2773412 Airport Res

French

brunch

La Chaumiere 215 Liberation Rd across ShangriLa Hotel

melting moments No. 78/5, 1st Norla St Tel: 0302770834

Tel: 0302772408 Airport Res

Labone

Café Chez Des Amis Liberation Rd, Across from French Embassy

Labadi Beach Hotel No.1 La Bypass Tel: 030 277 2501/6

Le Must No 28, Orphan Crescent Tel: 0244661069

La Palm Royal Beach Hotel No 5 La Bypass Rd Tel: 0302 215100

North Labone

Le Tandem 6 Mankralo St Tel: 030 2762959

La

La

Livingstone Safari near Akai House across from Kohinoor g h a n a k e y . com

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shopping markets Makola Market Kojo Thompson Rd

Dominated by women this bustling market of Accra is situated right in the center of the city.

There you will find: jewelry, fabrics, plastic hair decorations, traditional Ghanaian glass beads, batiks, wigs, bags, shoes, toiletries, as well as shea butter, fish, beans, meat, vegetables, fruit, flour, eggs, pots & pans, grills and much more. central

Malata Market Elephant Walk Rd

If you want a true local market experience, you’ll find it here. No tourists, no African masks, no tourist handcrafts, but you will have the opportunity to eat some authentic Ghanian fare

malls Accra Mall Spintex Rd, Tetteh Quarshie Interchange

accramall.com Airport Area

supermarkets Koala Supermarket Off Danquah Circle at Cantonments Rd Tel: 0302773455

Excellent assortment of local and imported goods; bread selection is highly recommended.

Carries Cottage Farms frozen pork. koalashop.com.gh Osu shoprite Accra Mall Tel: 0302823020 Airport Area

crafts Centre for National Culture 28th February Rd Tel: 021 664099

A sea of stalls selling arts and crafts. It is also referred to as the Arts Centre. This is the place to shop in Accra for crafts.

The level of aggressive hassling may 26

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Aburi Carving Center discourage you but if you have the patience you can come away with good-quality handicrafts from all over Ghana. central Loom 117 Kwame Nkrumah Ave Tel: 0302224746

Sells spectacular paintings as well as woodcarvings, fabrics and statues. central Global Mamas 14th Lane Near Koala Supermarket Tel: 24 453 0467

globalmamas.org Osu Wild Gecko Handicrafts Near Tetteh Quarshie exchange Tel: 030 250 8500

Unique handcrafted furniture, household decorations, accessories & jewelry. www.wild-gecko.com Cantonments

Woodwork ABURI CARVING CENTer Akwapim Ridge On the way to the Aburi town center

Here craftmen can be seen at work on magnificent carvings and drums which are available for purchase. If you are feeling creative, you can actually design your own piece. ABURI

shopping Jewelry Pmmc Mark Cofie Building Tel: 233 (0)302664579

Find diamonds and gold directly from local small-scale miners . Find a variety of jewelry we especially love the unique jewelry representing traditional Ghanaian symbols. pmmcghana.com central

Inka La Crescent TEl: 233 20 030 8618

DA viva Boutique 17th Lane Tel: 0289529770

Pure cotton fabric with a subtle mix of elegance and color. Osu Kiki clothing Accra Mall Tel: 020 817 4362

Unique ethnic designs for children and adults.

Airport Area

Winglow

13 Mensa Wood Street

Exquisite hand crafted African jewellery

Tel: 0302510321

Osu Nyaniba Estate

Exclusive embroidered wear for women and men. Western styled clothing in African print.

Interior decoration utilizing a blend of African and other fabrics.

modern Art Artists Alliance Omanye House Tel: 0245251404

A fantastic African modern art gallery located on the coast. Packed with artistic expression.

Three floors of art, sculpture, carvings and artifacts. The best part is that most of it is for sale. artistsallianz.com LA

bookstores Silverbird bookstore Accra Mall Tel: 030 282 3270-5

www.winglow.com East Legon Aya Morrison

23 Nii Bonnie Crescent Tel: 0302 956 355

Handbags, African print swimsuits & accessories Dzorwolu

ajePomaa Design Gallery No.8 Addo Close TEl: 026 564 5284

Link For gorgeousHigher clothes East Legon

Current fiction, nonfiction, business and religious books. Airport Area University Bookshop University of Ghana Legon Tel: 0302 500398

Current fiction, nonfiction & textbooks. Great if you are looking for books by local authors. Legon

fabric & fashion Woodin Boutique Oxford St Tel: 0302764371

Higher Link For fast and easy customs clearing and forwarding

Located at the aviance cargo village Priscilla: (233) 244145647 Joe: (233) 240066188.

White: (233) 233540898759 John: (233) 245045033

A temple of high fashion fabrics. 14 artists create ever changing designs. Osu g h a n a k e y . com

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accommodations resorts

and government ministries. The Hotel has 260 rooms include 61 Executive Club Rooms, 15 Junior Suites with balconies and view of the Swimming Pool, one Ambassador Suite & a 320sqm Presidential Suite.

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Labadi Beach Hotel No.1 La Bypass, Accra Tel: +233 (30) 277 2501/6 labadi@legacyhotels.com

Beautiful and well maintained. Includes a health club, an outdoor pool, a fitness facility, and a children’s pool, a business center, small meeting rooms, and secretarial services. la La Palm Royal Beach Hotel 5 La Bypass Tel: 233 30221 5100/5111 gbhghana.net

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Featuring 152 rooms, each with its own private balcony, laid out in chalet fashion, creating the feeling of a village complete with 8 bars and restaurants, large swimming pool, souvenir shops, fitness center & casino. la

Luxury The African Regent 237-238 Airport West, Tel: 233 302765180

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A refreshing taste of Africa in a classy establishment. Enjoy an enviable collection of African Art. A spa, a health club, outdoor pool, a fitness facility, wireless Internet in public areas. Cantonments The Aknac Hotel Trasacco Valley Tel: 233 302824235 theaknachotel.com

In the peaceful suburbs of Accra near Trasacco Valley within easy reach of the city centre.

This boutique hotel offers style, charm and personal service. Includes a restaurant, bars and an outdoor pool. Complimentary breakfast and wireless internet access.

The MĂśvenpick Ambassador Hotel Independence Ave, Ridge Tel: +233 302611000 moevenpick.com

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Ideally located in the central business district of downtown Accra, close to major financial institutions, the International Conference Centre 28

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Villa Monticello No.1A Mankata Ave Link Airport Residential Tel: 233 302773477 villamonticello.com

A boutique hotel in the heart of Accra with beautifully designed themed rooms - the Marrakech suite is our favorite. Restaurant, outdoor pool, full-service spa, bar/lounge.

Televisions with digital channels.

moderate Afia African Village $65-170 2 Liberia Road Osu Tel: 233 302681465 afiavillage.com

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Afia African Village is sensitively designed to take full advantage of the expansive ocean views and cooling sea breezes. Its traditionally styled architecture evokes the very essence of Africa.

Singles, doubles and family suites. Breakfast included.

Bojo Beach Resort $160-270 Off the Old Weija Barrier Tel: 233.302.912.946 bojobeachresort.com

With 35 guestrooms and suites, this retreat in the suburbs of Accra is perfect if you are looking to be in the city but enjoy the privacy and luxury of being far away. Enjoy the ocean and mountain views as well as high speed wireless internet.

Kokrobite

Hillburi Aburi $150 Gyankama Tel: 0244385008 www.hillburi.com

Blending modern style with strong colonial and African influences, lovely comfortable king size beds, fluffy duvets and pillows and thick towels, spectacular views overlooking the surrounding

accommodations Starlite Lodge No 2 Volta River Ave. Teshi-Nungua Estates Tel: 233 302 712829 starlitelodge-ghana.com

w

from $20 w/ breakfast Pink Hostel Tel: 233-302-256710/256712 phostel@busymail.com.gh Asylum Down from $20 (with continental breakfast) Bedua Home Suites $40-60 Tel: 233-241-234-234 NO 58 Genesis Estates at Mariville off Spintex Road in a gated community

Hillburi Aburi hills. Includes a bar, restaurant, infinity swimming pool. Aburi Mahogany Lodge $175-195 No. 9, Kakramadu Link Tel: 233-302-761162 mahoganylodge.com

q

A very pretty courtyard with pool. Two computers with free wireless.

East Cantonments

Bed & breakfast Spintex Inn $60 #1 Fourth Nii Kwaofio Link, Spintex Tel: 0207768243 spintexinn.com Spintex

Budget Blue Royal Hotel $69-$129 No 36. 18th lane off Cantoment Rd Tel: (0)302) 783075 blueroyalghana.com Osu New Ampax Hotel $20-40 Achimota Rd. Pokuake Junction Tel: (0)302-932158 ampaxhotelgh.com Asylum Down

9

Frankies Cantonments rd.

Tel: 0302 77 35 67 nii@frankiesghana.com Osu

huts & cottages Big Milly’s Back Yard GHc17-125 Tel: 0249 999 330 or 0262 999 330 www.bigmilly.com

Twenty rooms, all have fans and are beautifully decorated with African art. Double huts are of local clay bricks with thatched roofs. Most cottages are self contained. Several have A/C. 150 trees and a large menagerie of pets in the garden.

Entertainment on Friday and Saturday nights.

Kokrobite

holiday rentals Legassi Gardens Apartments ADDIS AVENUE,POKUASE JUNCTION, NEAR ACP ESTATES JUNCTION Tel: 233 277 522229 legassigardens@hotmail.com

Furnished and serviced apartments, in serene garden setting. Listen to our many birds, watch our garden butterflies, and play a game of Oware under the palm frond canopy! Convenience /craft store on-site & vegetarian cafĂŠ.

r

La-Paradise Inn Tel: 233 302 762085 4th Ostwe Street South La Estate

In the heart of vibrant Osu area, these apartments are surrounded by a diverse array of shops and restaurants. Each apartment has a modern living space, internet access and satellite t.v. Outside enjoy the swimming pool and the tropical garden. la g h a n a k e y . com

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transportation Domestic Air: Antrak Air Tel: (233) (0) 302 765377, 765378 antrakair.com

Wholly Ghanaian owned has flights to Kumasi, Takoradi, Sunyani, Tamale and Wa. Fly 540 Tel: (233) (0) 202 250 208 fly540africa.com

Offers internal flights to several locations around Ghana. They fly from Accra to Kumasi, Takoradi, Tamale and Sunyani.

Buses: STC (State Transport Corporation) Tel: (233-21) 221-912 or 252-835 or 221-314 The main, government owned and operated, intercity coaches. You should buy the tickets in advance so that you are given an assigned seat. Buses from Accra to Tamale leave daily at 7am and 3pm, a 9 am bus continues on to Bolgatanga. Buses from Tamale to Accra run daily at 6.30am and 4pm, Kumasi at 7am (10am weekends). A service from Tamale to Takoradi runs twice a week, at 8am on Tuesdays and 3pm on Saturday.

VIP Tel: 0544357030, 0544357038 vipjeoun@yahoo.com

Air conditioned clean buses to Kumasi. There are two levels of bus – one with larger seats and more leg room for marginally more money.

Buses run frequently all day and night. A good alternative for a long drive.

OA Travel and Tours Tel: 0243-3177620 Tamale: 0242-767694 / 0208-083644 Kumasi: 03220-41925

200m from STC station in Accra, OA offers very new buses for a reasonable price. Leaving at 3pm daily from Bolgatanga to Accra, GHc30.00. It leaves Tamale to Accra daily at 5pm, for GHc25.00. Booking tickets in advance is recommended.

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Car Rentals: Atlas Rent-A-Car

Tel: 024 427 7871 ghana-car-rentals.com Tel: 0.264.264.246 ghana-car-rentals.com

A one-stop-shop for online car hire in Ghana.

With a wide selection of vehicles for personal as well as business car rental needs.

step out in

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