I'M FREE
take me home
18
Atiu
Welcome home ine
PLUS Akono te Mango: Protect our Sharks 7's in Heaven • Aitutaki's Secret Garden It's Nice to Live in Paradise • Te Tika Growing a Business on Mauke
www.escapemagazine.travel
One unforgettable Day “the view of the island from the plane was just spectacular.”
“this is the way fish should be cooked, just gorgeous!” “they’re so friendly, you feel like part of the family.” “this tour was the highlight of our trip. We loved every minute of it.”
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“this was the best tour of our stay in th Cooks.”
Flights depart daily (except Sundays) from Rarotonga Airport at 8.00am. Returns 5.30pm. For more information see our hotel tour desk or call our reservations centre (7 days) on 22-888.
www.airraro.com
Aitutaki Cruising, swimming, snorkelling, relaxing over a barbequed lunch of freshly caught fish, as you explore Aitutaki’s magnificent Lagoon. A i r r A ro t o n g A ’ s DAy t o u r inCLuDes: a leisurely Lagoon cruise with an on-board lunch, and a fascinating island safari tour. round trip airfares. Hotel/Airport transfers on rarotonga. F ro M $459 P e r P e r s o n
Voted one of the most beautiful resorts in the South Pacific Islands!
Ridiculously Romantic! Crown Beach Resort & Spa is located on the sheltered sunset coast of Rarotonga, where 5 acres of botanical gardens and an endless ‘icing sugar’ beach caress a sparkling blue lagoon.
Explore a diversity of dining options from a choice of 3 world class restaurants. Be entertained at ‘Island Night’ feast and cultural shows, or relax with sand-in-toes during daily sunset happy hours 3-6pm where you buy one get one free. Crown Beach Resort & Spa also offers a spa, gym, dive centre & conference centre. Tel. +682 23953 for reservations.
p. +682 23953 | f. +682 23951 | e. info@crownbeach.com w. www.crownbeach.com | fb. crownbeachresort
COOK ISLANDS’ ICONIC SISTER RESORTS
ife is not Measured by the Breaths we take, but by the Moments that take our Breath Away. John Lennon once said: “Life happens when you’re busy making other plans”. Now is the time to reconnect with yourself, your partner or your family. Our lovely sister resorts offer you the place, the space and the freedom to make beautiful memories together. Take the time now to stop and … smell the frangipani!
T
he Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa. Rarotonga’s leading beach holiday, wedding group and family resort. Experience the true Cook Islands spirit! NEW creche (0-3yrs)! NEW teen zone! KIDS STAY + PLAY FREE!
SANCTUARY rarotonga
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anctuary Rarotonga-on the beach. Rarotonga’s leading new adults-only absolute beachfront resort. Stunning swim-up pool bar! South Seas sophistication.
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itutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa. The only resort directly on the World’s Most Beautiful Lagoon, Aitutaki. Breathtaking views. One of the World’s 12 Best Private Islands. Your Bucket List must-do! NEW! Premium Beachfront Bungalows now launched and $2 Million Resort Upgrade now completed!
SANCTUARY rarotonga
Aroa Beach + Lagoon Marine Reserve Rarotonga | COOK ISLANDS P (+682) 25800 | F 25799 info@rarotongan.co.ck | TheRarotongan.com
Aroa Beach + Lagoon Marine Reserve Rarotonga | COOK ISLANDS P (+682) 25 900 | F 25 988 info@sanctuaryrarotonga.com | SanctuaryRarotonga.com
Motu Akitua (Akitua Island) Aitutaki Lagoon | COOK ISLANDS P (+682) 31 200 | F 31 202 info@aitutakilagoonresort.com | AitutakiLagoonResort.com
contents Issue 18 • August 2013 52
Up front
Tour of the Cook Islands
8
Introduction
13
An introduction to the Cook Islands
10
Contributors to this issue
24
Rarotonga
44
Atiu (feature story)
66
Aitutaki
90
Southern & Northern Group Islands
Features 44 Atiu. ‘Welcome home ine’. Rachel Reeves discovers her roots in a small island paradise. “I know there is a little place I can go to find peace. For me, that place is an island of caves, birds, and some of the world’s loveliest people.” 52 Sevens in Heaven During the past 10 years the Cook Islands International 7’s tournament has grown to become one of the islands’ most fun-filled sporting events.
44
Regulars 14 Art Scene Dance - an essential part of Cook Islands culture and life. Dance artist Judith Kunzle talks to Cook Islands dance champion Uirangi Bishop on behalf of Escape magazine.
58 Its Nice To Live in Paradise Meet renowned restaurateur Sue Carruthers. Originally from Kenya this energetic, well-travelled lady now enjoys a busy life running 3 restaurants on Rarotonga.
18 Raro Rhythm Rarotonga’s Hawaiian Star. This is the musical career of Rudy Aquino we are talking about, one of the island’s most loved musicians.
64 Te Tika Wide acclaim for Cook Islands skin care products that are a fusion of Maori medicine and science.
20 Book Worms A review of topical authors and their books.
72 Aitutaki’s Secret Garden Bill Tschan, a keen botanist, has collected seeds for over 100 exotic fruit varieties from friends around the world. Many have commented about his wonderful garden on Aitutaki, so we visited to discover just what all the buzz was about.
22
What’s in Store? Taking a look in shop windows.
34
Island Cuisine We visit local restaurants and share their best recipes.
80 Akono te Mango: Protect our Sharks The Cook Islands recently declared their entire exclusive economic zone a sanctuary for all sharks, rays and skates, becoming the cornerstone in the largest contiguous shark sanctuary in the world.
42 Village Life Memories of life growing up in an island village brought to us by well known artist and story-teller Joan Gragg.
88 Growing a business on Mauke Once upon a time, maire was a lucrative business and the main export of the small island of Mauke. Horticulturist Take Metuariki is passionate about resuscitating the industry.
96
100 ‘The Bond’ Entertainment Guide The inside story on the best clubs, island shows and nightlife. 104
6 • ESCAPE
Great Places to Stay A guide to some of Rarotonga’s best accommodation.
What’s On? A calendar of events and holidays.
Arrive as a guest... leave as a friend. Includes
your room, daily buffet tropical breakfast, return airport transfers per person*
With stunning lagoon views from sun-drenched decks, a fantastic swim-up pool bar, international cuisines & cocktails with a fusion of local flavours and friendly Polynesian hospitality, Club Raro Resort offers exceptional value for money for your next tropical island holiday. Club Raro - Escape Magazine - Half Page Ad - Print Ready.indd 1
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EDITOR'S Note Where do I come from? What’s my family history? These questions are the subject of many television documentaries and a fascination that many of us would like the opportunity to explore. A very close friend of mine, a New Zealand Maori lady, is planning to visit the Cook Islands this year to re-trace the migration of her ancestors, and to understand more fully the history of her people prior to their arrival on the shores of Aotearoa. It is sure to be a very rewarding experience.
publisher South Pacific Publishing Limited, Rarotonga editor Noel Bartley design Christina Thiele | Ultimo Group Auckland, New Zealand printed in Korea Tara TPS Ltd Seoul, Korea advertising director Noel Bartley regular contributors Rachel Reeves Judith Kunzle Rachel Smith Alan Syme Florence Syme-Buchanan advertising sales rarotonga Noel Bartley Phone: (682) 23449 or 54449 Email: advertise@escape.co.ck advertising sales new zealand Phone: 09 419 6416 Email: scenix@ihug.co.nz distribution rarotonga Danny Kelly Phone: (682) 20777 or 77876 Email: kelly@oyster.net.ck distribution aitutaki Annie Bishop Phone: (682) 31009 Email: bishopcruz@aitutaki.net.ck Escape is published bi-annually by South Pacific Publishing Limited P.O. Box 3010, Rarotonga, Cook Islands Email: advertise@escape.co.ck All contents of ESCAPE magazine are copyright of South Pacific Publishing Limited. Any reproduction of any part of this magazine without prior written permission is strictly prohibited. front cover Children playing in the graveyard outside the CICC Church, Atiu. Photo: Noel Bartley.
8 • ESCAPE
Recently, during a flight from the island of Mauke, where we had just completed a story for Escape Magazine, our intrepid young writer Rachel Reeves apologised to me for not having sufficient time for a planned visit to Atiu. Rachel, who is part Cook Islander, explained that she would soon be returning to her home in California. “But how can you possibly leave without first visiting Atiu, which is the island of your family?” I asked. After further discussion I learned that she really did have a strong desire to visit and to discover where her grandma and earlier generations of her family had come from, and to explore this fascinating island. And so together we agreed to make that a possibility before she returned to the US. “That was so cool. That was the best thing I have ever done in my life and I have seen my very own land on Atiu” she said on her return to Rarotonga. To say she was on Cloud 9 would be an understatement. Making that possible for Rachel was reward enough, but to also have the opportunity of publishing an account of what she discovered on her home island is a privilege. Please do read her story 'Welcome Home Ine' on page 44. I hope my New Zealand friend’s visit to Rarotonga brings her the same warmth, joy and completeness that Rachel found on Atiu. Ka Kite! Noel Bartley
KIA ORANA Welcome We are delighted that you have chosen the Cook Islands for your vacation. Our fifteen islands are scattered over a vast expanse of ocean, yet our people are closely knit through community and family values, Christianity, age-old traditions and a vibrant culture. The Cook Islands are an ideal escape from today’s world of turmoil and stress, and destinations like ours are becoming increasingly difficult to find. The Kia Orana spirit is the foundation of the warmth and hospitality we offer our visitors and we hope you will have a most enjoyable stay with us. Escape Magazine will provide you with an invaluable insight into our life, through its various stories, regular columns and information about activities and attractions that our destination has to offer. You will find it an invaluable guide and well worth keeping as a souvenir of your visit, or to pass on to friends at home. We wish you a wonderful stay in our little paradise. Kia Manuia. Hon. Teina Bishop Minister of Tourism, Education, Marine Resources, Cook Islands Pearl Authority
Experience
Pacific Resort... Sandals Beachfront Restaurant & Barefoot Bar Open 7 days for breakfast, lunch
& dinner. Regular live entertainment. Island Night on Friday. Located in Muri at Pacific Resort Rarotonga. 20 427
Te Manava Spa Internationally trained therapists. Open 7 Days. Located in Muri at Te Manava Luxury Villas & Spa. 20 427
Rapae Bay Restaurant at Pacific Resort Aitutaki
Creative contemporary cuisine with an island flavour. Regular live entertainment. Island Night on Wednesday. Casual diners welcome. Bookings essential.
Moana Roa Glass Bottom Boat Cruiser Breakfast, lunch, snorkeling
31 720
& sunset cruises available. Operates MondaySaturday weather permitting. Located in Muri at Pacific Resort Rarotonga. 20 427
Tiare Spa
Internationally trained therapists. Open 7 days. Located in Aitutaki at Pacific Resort Aitutaki. 31 720 *Simply mention Escape on booking.
Experience it for yourself! Bookings Essential
www.pacificresort.com
CONTRIBUTORS Rachel Reeves Born and raised in California, Rachel Michele Teana Reeves has Atiu roots on her father’s side. She moved to Rarotonga three years ago to get to know her Cook Islands heritage, and fell in love with the island and island life. This young and vibrant 23-year-old has a passion for writing and has also worked for Cook Islands News. Upon graduating from university, she taught English in Vietnam, Thailand and Nepal. Rachel enjoys being active – running, swimming, oe vaka, windsurfing, snowboarding – and reading. She is grateful to the people of the Cook Islands, who have welcomed her with warmth and the spirit of aloha.
Rachel Smith Rachel moved to the Cook Islands with her family two years ago, exchanging her career as a health professional for that of a freelance journalist. She has fallen in love with the beauty and relaxed lifestyle of the Cook Islands, where her days are filled with writing, swimming, helping out at Takitumu School, and looking after her children. The opportunity to travel to the outer islands of Mangaia and Mauke has been a highlight during her time here, as has watching her son learn to speak Cook Islands Maori.
Matariki Wilson Matariki is a proud born and raised Cook Islander. She grew up in the taro patches and pawpaw plantations of Titikaveka and has blood ties to the islands of Atiu and Mangaia. After university studies and working as a chef in New Zealand she returned home in 2005 and took up a cadet reporter role with Cook Islands News. Today she is the chief reporter, sports reporter and photojournalist with the paper. Matariki’s passion is photographing her people, community events and sports, and this has seen her cover significant international events, as well as travelling with the national Cook Islands sports team to the Commonwealth Games in Melbourne and India, and Pacific Games in Samoa and New Caledonia. Nothing motivates Matariki more than national pride.
Jess Cramp Jess is an American scientist, surfer, diver and writer who arrived in Rarotonga via Tahiti, after being convinced by a group of Cook Islands voyagers that their country was the best in the Pacific. She spent the past two years as volunteer Programme Manager for Rarotonga-based Pacific Islands Conservation Initiative, helping to establish the shark sanctuary and falling in love with the people, landscapes and culture of the Cook Islands. She is an energetic marine conservationist who continues to research, educate and advocate for sharks, both throughout the Pacific and back in the US. When not working, Jess can be found at reef passes, either surfing or exploring underwater. Also: Calida Smylie, Glenda Tuaine, Judith Kunzle, Alan Syme, Joan Gragg, Graham McDonald, Max Bello, Tina Weier and Noel Bartley. 10 • ESCAPE
THE
VAKA
CRUISE Cruising Aitutaki’s magnificent lagoon aboard our unique Polynesian-style craft
This is the cruise you can’t miss …
We’ll serve a delicious barbecued lunch. There’s an onboard bar service (with toilets) with towels and snorkeling equipment complementary … an opportunity to explore one of the Pacific’s most beautiful lagoons aboard the Titi-ai-tonga, a 21 metre Polynesian-style vaka.
The Cruise includes Barbequed Lunch and Transfers from this Hotel.
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Departs Monday to Saturday at 10am from O’otu and returns at 4pm.
Book at your hotel or online www.aitutaki.net or tel. 52294
The Cook Islands
15 tiny islands in paradise, that a small nation calls home.
London Berlin Vancouver Rome Beijing
Seoul Tokyo Los Angeles Hong Kong Honalulu
Northern Group
Capetown
Perth
Sydney
Cook Islands Auckland
Southern Group
W
here would someone say, “may you live long,” upon meeting you for the first time, but in the Cook Islands.
The Cook Islands greeting Kia Orana, means exactly that, “may you live long.” It is a unique first gesture of friendship from a special Polynesian people, renown for their hospitality and warmth. It is as if God chose his 15 most precious gems, and then sprinkled them over 2.25 million sq km of the Pacific to become the Cook Islands – an ei (necklace) of islands awaiting to embrace all visitors. All the islands combined make up a land area of just 240 sq km. Each of the ‘gems’ is unlike the other and all have their own special features. From the majestic peaks of Rarotonga to the low-lying untouched coral atolls of the northern islands of Manihiki, Penrhyn, Rakahanga, Pukapuka, Nassau and Suwarrow. The latter, inhabited only by a caretaker and his family, is a popular anchorage for yachts from all over the world. The Southern Cooks is made up of the capital Rarotonga, Aitutaki, Atiu, Mangaia, Mauke, Mitiaro, Manuae, Palmerston and Takutea. Takutea is an uninhabited bird sanctuary and managed by the Atiu Island Council. Manuae is the remaining uninhabited island. Cook Islanders have their own Maori language and each of the populated islands a distinct dialect. It has a population of around
13,000. The Cooks has been self-governing in free association with New Zealand since 1965. By virtue of that unique relationship, all Cook Islanders hold New Zealand passports. The country is governed by 25-member Parliament elected by universal suffrage. The Cook Islands Parliamentary system is modelled on the Westminster system of Britain. The Queens Representative is Head of State. A House of Ariki (traditional paramount chiefs) counsels and advises government, as does the Koutu Nui, a body of traditional chiefs. This is a delightful Pacific country where the ‘metropolis’ of Rarotonga offers a wide range of activities, accommodation and cuisine and visitors can choose to be as busy as they wish. A short inter-island flight away are the less developed southern group islands each offering something different. Travelling to the isolated northern islands by inter-island flight or boat, one savours a South Pacific rarely seen by outsiders. Due to distance and infrequency of transport there are fewer visitors to the northern group islands. But wherever you turn you see bright tropical colours and movement, whether it is the sway of palms and sea in the trade winds, or dancers entertaining at one of the many nightspots found on Rarotonga and Aitutaki. While you may nearly always hear the ocean, you will always feel the warmth of the people and their tropical paradise. The Cook Islands truly is a slice of heaven.
ESCAPE • 13
art scene
dance
Cook Islands
story: Judith Kunzlé photos: Matariki Wilson
the heart of our culture 14 • ESCAPE
The arT sTuDio M a i n r oa D – a r o r a n g i
Ian & Kay George F e aT u r i n g a r T i s T s F r o M The Cook islanDs
I
n Polynesia, dance and music are the most important art forms. They are an essential part of any important celebration or welcome. Songs and dances are composed for specific occasions, and some become standards, classic items in repertoires of dance troupes that perform for locals and visitors. Dancing for visitors is as traditional as Polynesian voyaging, and although the dances have changed more or less over the years, the enthusiasm for dancing has not. The missionaries did their best to prohibit the sensual dances, but secretly Polynesians preserved their favourite artistic expression and since the 1950s, Polynesian dancing has been revived. National dance competitions have become the ultimate celebration of Polynesian dancing: art for art's sake. While dancers explore traditions and invent, cultural identity is researched, defined and debated. The main audience at competitions are definitely the locals, while visitors are allowed to watch too - if they can get a seat. The dance competitions are both the heart and the cutting edge of local culture, and the champions are chosen by tough juries, measured with traditional and creative values.
Dance artist Judith Kunzle talked to Cook Islands dance champion Uirangi Bishop on behalf of Escape magazine… “Uirangi, you have won Te Mire Ura, National Dancer of the Year competitions eight times, when did you start to dance and perform?” “My parents were both dancers and musicians and I can't really remember when I learned to dance, but it was before
going to school. My older sister Caroline showed exceptional talent and interest in Cook Islands dancing and my dad started a dance team to encourage her. I've tagged along, watching and learning. In 2004 Caroline won the National Dance Competition, and a year later I took over. But the first dance competition I won was as a Junior in 2001, when I was 13 years old. From then on I competed every year, first as an intermediate from age 14 to 16, and finally as a senior in 2005 to 2011, skipping only one year in 2009.” “You are an outstanding and innovative dancer, but Cook Islands dance is a very traditional art form. How can you invent new moves in an essentially traditional dance form?” “The National Dance Competitions are the ultimate challenge for local dancers, and move Cook Islands dancing forward - you have to have ideas and be creative to stand out and win the competition! Although there are basic dance techniques and rules, our dance has to be about themes that we, the dancers today, can relate to. We have to be allowed to go with the changing times. You can't be excited about dancing if you just keep doing the same songs and movements over and over again. For the dance competition in 2006, I chose the theme “Suicide” for my Action Song, inspired by the tragic loss of a friend. I used a swing for a part of the dance, to express the idea of giving up standing on your feet, putting your life away. It was hard to interpret such a serious and deep meaning. Cook Islands dancing is usually about being happy, smiling, but living isn't always easy. What is most important about creating new dance moves is that you really feel what your song is about and understand the lyrics so you can express them, and make others feel them too.”
TexTi le s CloTh i ng Pa i n T i n g s PrinTs s i l k s Ca r v e s D i g i Ta l P h o T o g r a P h y Phon e 27788
ikgeorge@oyster.net.ck
Playingof the Cardlsands
Cook Is
Novel, unique and appealingly attractive, this deck of cards features 54 art works by Joan Gragg. Joan’s art is influenced by everyday life in the Cook Islands. An ideal gift or souvenir! Available from: Beachcomber Pearl Market • Bounty Bookshop • Island Craft • Island Living • Perfumes of Rarotonga • The Art Studio • The Gift Shop
See Joan’s artwork at The Furniture Centre ESCAPE • 15
“You are an established Cook Islands Dance champion, how do you now go forward?” “It's wonderful to be recognized for your dancing, your ideas and the work, but it's even better to be involved. I have been teaching young dancers for their participation in the National Dance Competition and in dance teams. My goal is to start my own dance school on Rarotonga. I have to keep dancing!” “Where do you perform? Where can we see you dance?” “Each Thursday evening I dance with the group Te Korero Maori at the Staircase Restaurant in Avarua. We also perform at the market in Avatiu on Saturday mornings.” “The audience at the hotels and restaurants are mostly visitors, so does it make a difference if you dance for locals or visitors?” “Yes and no. A local audience knows what our dancing is all about and we have to try harder to convince them. But really, if you love to dance, you always give your best, no matter who is in the audience.”
16 • ESCAPE
“Do you get inspired by other dance forms?” “Although some people may claim that we are influenced by dance techniques from Tahiti, our Cook Islands dance moves are fundamentally different - and a good dancer doesn't copy anything. It's up to us dancers in the Cook Islands, how we want our dance to be, how we want our culture to be. This, the way we dance now, is what we do!”
romanc
Beachcomber... an unforgettable destination...
Beachcomber Contemporary Art
Take home your own true piece of paradise...
The all new Beachcomber Contemporary Art Gallery (BCA) was opened June 8th 2009 by the Hon. Wilkie Rasmussen, Minister of Tourism with a keynote speech by Ron Brownson, Senior Curator, New Zealand & Pacific Art, Auckland City Art Gallery, Toi O Tamaki. Evolving from its former premises in the original Beachcomber building, the new purpose built space is dedicated to the exhibition of exceptional domestic and international contemporary art.
Our remarkable history Experience the romantic ambience of Beachcomber. Constructed in 1845 by the London Missionary Society, our landmark, historic building is a rare living gem. Submerge yourself in our tropical garden & The Beachcomber Courtyard Cafe. Indulge in a fabulous espresso made from locally roasted coffee beans & an Island inspired menu.
Pearl Market
Be truely inspired by nature & choose from our collection of beautiful Cook Islands Black Pearls. Renowned for their stunning colours, shapes and size, Cook Islands Black Pearls are our national gem. Select your very own precious black pearl & then decide how you would like it set from our 'ready to wear' collection of silver & gold settings.
Polynesian Wedding Bands Exclusive to Beachcomber Pearl Market, fall in love with our romantic range of traditionally inspired Polynesian Wedding Bands with Island motif. Choose 'Love', 'Happiness', 'Faithfulness', 'Co-operation' & 'Unity'.
unfo orgettable gettab Increasing international media coverage now recognizes the Cook Islands as a growing regional art hub.
BCA represents Michel Tuffery, Andy Leleisi'uao, Loretta Reynolds, Mark Cross, Rick Welland, Jerome Shedden, Henriata Nicholas, Mike Tavioni, Kay George, Tim Buchanan and NYC artist Yazmany Arboleda. www.gallerybca.com
Available in yellow, white and rose gold.
Happiness
Love
Faithfullness
Mon-Friday 9am-4pm Sat 9am-12pm Main Road, Taputapuatea Ph +682 21939 lukeb@oyster.net.ck ESCAPE • 17
raro rhythm
Rarotonga’s Hawaiian Star story: Glenda Tuaine
To be able to say you have played in the White House to Emperor Haile Selassie, President John Kennedy and his wife Jackie, or to numerous famous stars such as Frank Sinatra, Eddie Fisher, Bill Cosby and Barbara Streisand, in my books is impressive; and this is the musical career of Rudy Aquino we are talking about.
R
udy, in 2012, became a recipient of the prestigious lifetime achievement award from the annual Na Hoku Hanohano Awards in Hawaii, alongside his band members Al Akana, Benny Chong, Manny Lagodlagod and Joe Mundo from the famous band the Aliis, who revolutionised Hawaiian music in the 60’s. The Alii’s are widely known as the backing band for Don Ho, the charismatic star of 60’s pop song fame “Tiny Bubbles” and “Pearly Shells”. But the Alii’s formed a musical brotherhood long before their more famous lead man came on the scene. I sat with Rudy to
18 • ESCAPE
hear more about his music history and philosophy. Rudy’s love of music began at 10 years old when his sister, bored of the piano lessons his mother had bought her and Rudy, was allowed to step in. He laughs at the memory of the class “You know - here we all were, about six kids in a room bashing away on these piano’s” But it was here that Rudy learnt to play music. From the piano, Rudy moved to vibraphone, or xylophone as it is more
commonly known, ukulele and congas. When I asked him if he was one of those musicians that can pick up any instrument and play it? He modestly replied “After a while, if you live with an instrument you learn to love it. Given a chance and you see the worth of it and you have a passion, you can play it!” And play instruments with passion is exactly what he did, albeit in the 60’s a push to avoid the draft to Vietnam lead him and his buddies to audition and become part of the US Air Force
Band. This period is what Rudy refers to as the Cinderella time, performing at huge galas, functions and parties for the Kennedy administration in a 300 piece orchestra. Here he manicured not only his performance skill but nurtured styles and techniques of playing, that later formed the new wave of Hawaiian music that the Alii’s became so well known and respected for. After the Air Force, Rudy and his buddies returned to Hawaii unsure of what lay ahead. Enter Don Ho. Rudy jokes that he had been earning 40.00US dollars a month in the Air Force band and to then earn 140.00US dollars as Don Ho’s backing band; he was positively rich! Touring mainland USA, TV appearances and sold out shows all followed, with the introduction of the Hawaiian music style; relaxed, infused with jazz, Polynesian rhythms, 3 and 4 part harmonies, and a show packed with skits, scats and instrumentals. Don Ho and the Alii’s were
born, “We instilled relaxation, and people came to see us to have fun and let their hair down.” Rudy explains.
Rarotonga and are the proud owners of a beautiful four villa property called Tropical Sands in Matavera.
In the 80’s Rudy moved to Maui and changed tact with a stint as a music teacher and then a Luthier – guitar maker. I sense from Rudy that both of these careers too were a passion, as he relays his love of teaching children how to write and compose songs, and the beautiful art and craftsmanship of making a guitar. Rudy also became the MC for a show at the Ka’anapali Beach Hotel, where he meets his wife Kanoe who was the head dancer, and it is here also that his old friend Jimmy Bruce from Rarotonga’s Aroa Beachside Inn returns to Hawaii issuing an invitation to come and visit him in Rarotonga.
Rudy plays three nights a week: Thursday at his friend Jimmy Bruces’ Aroa Beachside Inn 5.30- 7.30pm; Friday at Tamarind House 7.00-10.00pm and Sundays at Pacific Resort 7.00-9.00pm. Rudy says “Here on Rarotonga I play for people fine dining and a mixture of Polynesian Hawaiian, some IS (Israel Kamakawiwo`ole's) and traditional Hawaiian stuff like you hear on the movie “The Descendents.” Rudy Aquino is a Pacific music legend, so make sure you take some time to see him play, you won’t regret it.
Rudy and Kanoe’s love affair with Rarotonga was formed in 1998 within one week and they just kept on extending their stay. Now they reside permanently here in
Spectacular Overwater Night Show & Buffet Dinner!
Book now! Ph: (682) 24006 www.tevaranui.co.ck
ESCAPE • 19
book worms
were both more than ever determined to continue their relationship. Their romance blossomed and in 1961 they married. Rarotonga was a tropical paradise for Helen, Hugh and their family of four sons and one daughter. The lifestyle was a far cry from the sheltered upbringing of Auckland, where family and friends were only a phone call away. They struggled to make ends meet, but every day was a new challenge and adventure. Together they created a home where their two cultures and traditions intertwined. Above all, their household resonated with love, laughter and chaotic carefree days, as they brought up five barefoot children.
My Kotuku of the South Seas Helen Henry Helen Henry, daughter-in-law of the late Sir Albert Henry, Cook Islands’ first prime minister after the country became self-governing in 1965, publishes her remarkable life story, in My Kotuku of the South Seas. Helen’s memoir depicts a simple life in a much simpler time. Helen’s memoir is rich in her descriptions of friendship, harmony and love. She weaves a simple tapestry of the life of her family as they follow their dreams and aspirations. Helen grew up in a sheltered and happy home in a leafy suburb of Auckland, New Zealand. She was only 15 years of age when she fell passionately in love with Hugh, a Pacific Island boy, at a time when multi race marriages were frowned upon. Hugh’s father, Sir Albert Henry, advised Helen of the problems and disillusionment she might encounter, but she was not deterred. In fact they
20 • ESCAPE
There were moments of drama when they were caught up in the political turmoil of a small nation forging its own destiny. Helen experienced deep sadness and despair when Hugh suddenly and unexpectedly passed away. She was left to continue her journey alone. Out of the blue, Helen finds a second love and marries John Hay, an environmental scientist and Nobel Peace Prize winner. They share a love of traveling to exotic and exciting places around the world. However, most of all they enjoy relaxing on the verandah of their home in Rarotonga. My Kotuku of the South Seas is one woman’s remarkably inspiring journey with strong threads of family, harmony and unity. In all her trying times, Helen finds constant solace in the appearance of ‘The Kotuku’ the beautiful bird she loved as a child and which she now recognizes as a symbol of enduring comfort. Available from Bounty Bookshop, Avarua, or log on to: www.helenhenryraro.com for more information about this book.
Pa and the Dolphins Jillian Sobieska
A True Story of Pa, Rarotongan Hero and his Journey to Tahiti
This spellbinding tale of one of Rarotonga’s most loved characters (the same Pa that escorts you on the Cross Island Walk) will delight children and adults alike. Well written and beautifully illustrated by Jillian Sobieska, a renowned Cook Islands artist, it tells the true story of Pa swimming in Tahiti and being hassled by a shark. Believing his life to be in danger he prayed for help – and was rescued by dolphins. Well that’s enough detail… do buy the book, its a little treasure. Available from Jillian Sobieska: Tel 21079, or Bounty Bookshop
aitutaki
Aitutaki cook isl ands
TivaevaeCollectables.com Traditional Pacific Fabric Art for your home
Within these pages is an evocative portrayal of the Aitutaki, its people, beauty of places, recreatio nal activities and through the eyes culture, of photographer and publisher Noel Bartley. Aitutaki is consider ed the gem of the Cook Islands, of 15 small but a proud nation beautiful and pristine islands scattered enormous 2 million across an square kilometer s of the South Pacific Ocean. Also in this series by Noel Bartley: Rarotonga, Cook Islands.
raroto nga
noel bar tley
NOEL BA RTLEY cook isl ands
Within these pages is an evocative portrayal of the Rarotonga, its beauty of people, places, recreational activities through the eyes and culture, of photographer and publisher Noel Bartley.
Rarotonga is the capital and largest of the Cook Islands, nation of 15 small a proud but beautiful and pristine islands across an enormou scattered s 2 million square kilometers of the Pacific Ocean. South Also in this series by Noel Bartley: Aitutaki, Cook Islands.
noel bar tley
NOEL BA RTLEY
The Must Stop Shop Rarotonga & Aitutaki Noel Bartley One of the largest and perhaps the most comprehensive collections of Cook Islands photography has been built up over two decades by publisher and photographer Noel Bartley.
For quality tivaevae bedcovers, duvets, cushion covers, baby cot covers, table cloths, place mats, jewellery, hula dolls, handbags and more. Look for our sign west of the airport - opposite the Weather Station in Nikao. Rarotonga - Ph Anne 24688 NZL -Ph Kathrine (09)4807620
SHOP ONLINE
www.tivaevaecollectables.com email: info@tivaevaecollectables.com
Recently Noel, who also publishes award winning Escape Magazine, produced two new pictorial books, one entitled Rarotonga, the other Aitutaki, using some of the stunning images from his vast collection. Beautiful photographs leap out from every one of the 100 pages of each book, providing wonderful imagery of both Rarotonga and Aitutaki. Noel has captured well the country’s two most popular visitor destinations, the people, culture, and island life. Escape Magazine’s main contributing writer Florence SymeBuchanan provides an informative introduction to each book. These books rank amongst the best now available in terms of photographic quality. Retailing at around $39.90 they would also be the best in terms of value for money and certainly make wonderful souvenirs of the islands. Both titles are on sale at most retailers including CITC, Bounty Bookshop, Island Craft, Treasure Chest stores, Island Style, Beachcomber, Perfumes of Rarotonga and at some resorts.
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what's in store
Tell the time in the Cook Islands language. This cute wall clock is one of many interesting gifts you’ll find at Tivaevae Collectables. Price $65. See their advert on page 21.
Ladies - for the best in stylish island fashion and a great range of beach wear, check out the latest on offer from international and local designers at id.CK – identity cook islands. Located in the Banana Court, near the information centre.
ar s Calend d n a l s I Cook 2014 The Escape Magazine 2014 Calendar features the very best of Cook Islands images captured by our photographers during the past year. Each calendar is individually shrink-wrapped and has a stiffening board plus envelope for ease of mailing. From most stores and souvenir outlets on Rarotonga and Aitutaki. $14.95
Be safe in the sun! Hats and caps in all sorts of designs and colours, to suit every taste, are available from Treasure Chest. They have 4 stores around the island: Muri Beach, Rarotonga Beach Resort & Spa, Edgewater Resort and downtown Avarua.
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Yummy - Watermelon Fudge! One of many tempting flavours to be savoured at The Fudge Factory counter, located within Perfumes of Rarotonga. You’ll find their shop at Cooks Corner, where the bus stops in town.
Beware when buying black pearls…
This black pearl ring is available from Moana Gems, located in uptown Avarua. They have a fine selection of Jewellery Art, including rings crafted in sterling silver and set with different gems, such as amethyst and topaz, priced around $260.
Don’t go home without trying the local brew from Matutu. You’ll find it at most bars and liquor outlets and at Matutu Boutique Brewery. If you have time, why not visit their brewery in Titikaveka and sample their brews - Phone 26228 to book a tour.
When shopping for Cook Islands black pearls, always ask the sales assistant if the pearls are genuine Cook Islands pearls. Ensure that you are given a certificate of authenticity (with the name of the retail outlet you purchased from) guaranteeing exactly what you have been told you are buying. Be advised that there are other pearls on the market that look like authentic Cook Islands black pearls, but are not.
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south pacific fun
a smorgasbord of
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ROTONGA There are few places in the world that equal this special emerald island in the Pacific - capital of the Cook Islands. A place where a visit is certain to capture the heart. And upon reluctant departure, will generously add to a lifetime of good memories.
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his is Rarotonga, named Tumutevarovaro by the first Polynesian settlers over a thousand years ago, who composed chants and songs in praise of her natural splendor. Those ancient Maori people who navigated the Pacific in their ocean voyaging double-hulled canoes would have relished her fertile abundance and delighted in her safe anchorages and plentiful water. The beauty of Rarotonga is still awesome. Especially when viewed from the air on an Air Rarotonga aircraft. Or, from beyond the reef aboard one of several deep sea fishing boats available for charter, where you can behold the mountains rising majestically from the centre of the island, piercing blue skies and passing clouds. From these cloud mountains, the early Polynesian settlers believed Rongo, the goddess of the land lived and watched over them as they fished, planted and lived a simple, but rich life. There’s also a breathtaking view of Rarotonga from the ‘Needle” if you take the “cross island” walk which starts from Avatiu Valley. From this point you can see the necklace of white surf that forever pounds the reef enclosing this volcanic island. The cross-island walk is best done with a guide and does require some effort, so being of average fitness will help as will sturdy footwear. Guided sightseeing walks and learning about the island’s flora and fauna can be booked through your hotel or travel agent. Less strenuous than going across the island is the informative scenic walk offered by guides of the Takitumu Conservation Area (TCA). Covering 380 acres, the TCA is home to the indigenous Kakerori, (Rarotongan Flycatcher). Once on the critically endangered list, this tiny bird is now thriving well, thanks to the efforts of environmentalists and the TCA group to save the bird from extinction. Rarotonga is lush and carpeted with plantations that yield year-round fruits and vegetables. The largest of the 15 Cook Islands, it is 32 km around its main coastal road. An inland road and various tracks will further reveal a palette of dazzling tropical colours equaled by few other places.
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Like other islands in the group, Rarotonga’s white beaches with sand as fine as powder stretch into clear blue lagoons around the island. Lagoons where children safely play are food cupboards for the local people, who live an unhurried lifestyle in a unique, unspoiled place in the Pacific.
Traditional Voyaging According to ancient mythology, Rarotonga was settled over a thousand years ago by Polynesians from an ancient land called Avaiki. They travelled in massive double-hulled ocean voyaging canoes, crisscrossing Te Moana Nui O Kiva (Pacific Ocean) in search of fertile, sheltered land. That traditional voyaging, navigating by the stars, has been revived in the Cook Islands and two traditional ocean going vaka built in the early 1990’s have notched up thousands of nautical miles, travelling as far as Hawaii, New Caledonia and New Zealand. The vaka, Te Au O Tonga and Takitumu can be viewed at Vaka Village in Avana, Ngatangiia. Avana channel is also the site where seven canoes Takitumu, Kurahaupo, Tokomaru, Aotea, Tainui, Mataatua and Te Arawa, departed Rarotonga for New Zealand
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The capital of Rarotonga is Avarua and many shops offer a wide selection of goods and souvenirs. over 700 years ago. A circle of stones and plaques bearing the name of each canoe commemorates that great voyage.
Shopping The capital of Rarotonga is Avarua and many shops offer a wide selection of goods and souvenirs. Possibly the best souvenir of the Cook Islands is a black pearl from the northern islands of Manihiki or Penrhyn. The Cook Islands is the second biggest producer of black pearls in the world. Punanga Nui Marketplace on Saturday mornings is busy and colourful – stalls and small huts selling souvenirs, food and clothing. The market is the best place to buy a pareu (sarong) and handmade pearl shell jewellery, or to try some of the local delicacies. It is a lively meeting place for hundreds of locals each Saturday morning. There’s often a live show by dance teams, or a local string band.
Water Sports With clear blue lagoons and a huge ocean at its doorstep, there is a good range of water sports to suit all ages. You can choose from skimming the lagoon on a windsurfer, kayaking, lagoon boat trips, scuba diving, deep-sea fishing, reef watching in a glass bottom ‘submarine’, or just swimming, snorkelling and sunbathing. One of the best spots to snorkel is in Tikioki opposite the Fruits of Rarotonga Café where Mama Puretu makes delicious smoothies from local fresh fruit. A raui, (a traditional ban on fishing and the gathering of seafood) protects the Tikioki lagoon, so it teems with fish and other marine life. Raui are also in place on other parts of Rarotonga’s lagoon coastline and these areas generally offer the best snorkelling. Look for the Raui signs around the island, but please protect our marine environment – take nothing but memories and leave nothing but bubbles.
Please support the advertisers in this magazine…
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COOK ISLANDS
PEARL FARMER • RETAILER WHOLESALER
Locations • Downtown Avarua • Pacific Resort Muri • Rarotonga International Airport
Lesley & Temu Okotai Harbour House, Avatiu P. 20635
email: temu@mblackpearl.co.ck
Phone: +682 22833 Email: rentacar@avis.co.ck
www.avis.co.ck ESCAPE • 27
www.perfumes.co.ck
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“Experience our exotic local Oils, Perfumes, Soaps and Liqueurs and meet the people that make them.” on the Main road before the airPort! ph–25238
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Because Rarotonga is surrounded by clear waters, the visibility when scuba diving is excellent. All dive operators offer lessons for beginners in the safety of the lagoon before venturing out over the reef. Both Koka Lagoon Cruises and Captain Tama’s Lagoon Cruizes operate from Muri Lagoon, next to Rarotonga Sailing Club, offering visitors lagoon tours in glass bottom boats with loads of fun exploring the lagoon plus swimming, snorkeling, sunbathing and a barbeque lunch. Outrigger canoeing teams train on Muri lagoon and at Avarua wharf. Watching the teams powering through the water in their six-man or single outrigger canoes is stirring. The annual canoeing festival, Te Vaka Eiva, is held every November with teams from all over the Pacific travelling to Rarotonga to race.
Sports Cook Islanders love their sports, with rugby and netball the top favourites. More often than not, a local will play several different sports during the year and be good at all of them. Saturday sees keen inter-village rugby, netball, cricket, tennis, soccer and rugby league games, depending on the season. Spectators are welcome, as is participation in after-match socials at village clubhouses. Entry fee and drinks are cheap, the atmosphere is always lively, especially if teams are putting on a small show with lots of humour. The Rarotonga Bowling Club in town has matches most Saturdays and a bar to relax in after games. The Rarotonga Golf Club welcomes visitors to its 9-hole course at Black Rock and offers clubs and trundlers for hire.
Nightlife There’s always lots to do in the evenings. Island nights staged by local hotels feature buffets of local food cooked in an umu or earth oven. Entertainment is provided by one of the islands’ professional dance groups and you are guaranteed a vibrant, sensual show and drumming that’s recognised as the best in the world - see our Entertainment Guide for more information. Guided night tours by bus to well-known establishments like
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banana court – Phone: 25060
...a vibrant, sensual show and drumming that’s recognised as the best in the world...
the Banana Court, Trader Jacks and Whatever! Bar after the island show is also fun and there’s also the comfort of knowing one doesn’t have to drive home after several bar stops. Rarotonga has numerous excellent restaurants that serve tempting food from around the world. One could eat out every night of the week and still not experience all the great food that’s available. The Tamarind House Restaurant in Pue (just out of Avarua) is a beautifully converted colonial house that once belonged to the Union Steamship Company. Situated close to the beach, the Tamarind looks over the ocean and meals can be taken in the garden under the stars. See our cuisine section for the pick of Rarotonga restaurants.
Takeaway meals also are available from outlets all around the island and excellent fish n’ chips are served up by the Flying Boat Grill located at the Cook Islands Game Fishing Club. Visitors are always welcome to join the locals at the club for a drink or a meal. The location of Aramoana Takeaways at Avatiu Wharf ensures that their fish is always freshly caught by local fishermen. Rarotonga has a three-cinema complex with air conditioning, a big screen and surround-sound in Cinema 3. A good selection of recent movies is shown. For those wanting a quiet night in, there are several local video and DVD outlets, all with a comprehensive selection of classics and latest releases. Some outlets also hire TV’s and DVD players.
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Come in to view our extensive range of sarongs, island clothing, footwear and t-shirts. Rarotonga’s largest selection of souvenirs, crafts and gift ideas.
Mana Court, Avarua | Ph: 22325 Rarotongan Resort | Ph: 27325 Edgewater Resort | Ph: 28325 Pacific Village Muri | Ph: 21325
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Other things to do Whale watching is possible in Rarotonga during the months of August and September. The humpback whales come from Antarctica to the warmer waters of the Cook group to mate and calf. The Cook Islands exclusive economic zone has been formally declared a whale sanctuary. The Whale Centre in Nikao is an interesting place to visit, to find out more about these magnificent ocean creatures. Two libraries and museums just out of town are great for browsing. On the way to the “old library and museum” you’ll pass the Avarua Christian Church. The adjacent graveyard is interesting to wander through and of note is the bust of the late Albert Royale Henry, the first Cook Islands premier who was instrumental in guiding the country towards self-government in 1964.
Sunday After a busy Saturday night, relax on Sunday like the locals. Sunday is regarded as a day of worship and rest. A wonderful memory to take home is the singing in one of the islands’ Cook Islands Christian Churches. CICC coral limestone churches, hand built by the forefathers of Cook Islanders, are in every village and
visitors are warmly welcomed to Sunday services. Morning tea is provided by the congregations.
Weddings Rarotonga has become a popular location for weddings and honeymoons. Wedding packages designed to suit each couples taste and budget are available from a number of operators on the island. The golden beach of uninhabited Koromiri islet in Muri lagoon is one of the most popular locations for weddings. Young coconut saplings planted by each newly wed couple line the beach and are testimony to the islet’s popularity.
Relax In the Cook Islands you’ll hear the phrase “island time” a lot. You are a long way from the hustle and bustle of the outside world, so…walk a little slower, savour every moment of your holiday in paradise and don’t worry about being a bit late for engagements. That is island time on Rarotonga.
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Beaches Restaurant & Bar
For Reservations Phone +(682) 22 461
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island cuisine
TRADER JACKS Trader Jacks is something of an institution in Rarotonga – the waterfront spot to meet for lunch, dinner, a pizza, or a drink or two. It would be rare indeed to find a local or tourist who has not enjoyed an evening there. “An icon,” is how owner Rosa Tauia describes the place. Rosa and her long time partner Jack Cooper, together with Chris Douglas, have run the business for 27 years. The wonder of Trader Jacks is in its location, perched on the end of the wharf at Avarua Harbour, which has its obvious disadvantages come cyclone season. The
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Air-conditioned private room for dining & meetings (with conference facilities) A short stroll east of town Ph: 28830 or Email: bamboojacks@gmail.com
try our
Pizza Shack eat in or take out
NUMBER ONE FOR SEAFOOD PH 26464 • info@traderjacks.co.ck Wheelchair access available
Restaurant On the beachfrOnt at Muri LagOOn light to the more filling, and an emphasis on the freshest seafood. There is also a pizza bar on the ground level that serves food to the restaurant, as well as the bar area; the pizza’s are of course also available to takeaway. For my starter I shared the delicious salt and pepper squid, served with mayonnaise and one of the islands fresh juicy limes. It was perfect washed down with a glass of Steinlager, which they have on tap and also bottled.
building was demolished by one cyclone only six months after opening back in 1986, and then again in 2005. Rosa says they have a great mix of locals and tourists, with many locals popping in to enjoy the seaside breeze and sunset while having an after work drink, and tourists making the most of the restaurant with its stunning views of the small harbour, which is always alive with activity. Trader Jacks also has a vibrant bar scene, with the bar area full come evening until late, complete with live music on Friday and Saturday evenings. We opted for a lunch-time visit on what was another perfect Cook Islands day. There was plenty to watch across the water while we waited for our starters to arrive – swimmers and paddlers in their vaka venturing outside the reef, and the occasional trumpet fish floating through the shallows. The lunch menu is also the dinner menu, with a range of options from something
I chose to continue my lunch with more seafood, wanting to sample the home smoked marlin. Served as a salad, it was just as I had imagined – a generous amount of very tasty smoked marlin, set on a bed of lettuce, cucumber, julienned carrot, olives, radish and red onion, and dressed lightly.
OPen 7 DaYS 8am till late Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner Dinner Reservations Recommended Happy Hour Cocktails 4pm Mon - Sat Saturdays – Sailing Regatta Day Wireless Internet Available Beachfront Bar
My partner chose the grilled chicken sandwich, which proved to be a delicious combination of chicken, bacon, tomato, lettuce and avocado, set between grilled slices of homemade bread. To end our lunch we shared the coconut key lime pie over two flat whites – great coffee and the dessert was so good we were fighting over the last mouthfuls. RS
Hours: Monday to Saturday with lunch 11.30am – 2.30pm and dinner 6pm – 10pm.
WeDDIngS & PRIvAte FunCtIonS A SPeCIALty Consult with our Personal Wedding Planner. info@theweddingguys.co.ck dine@sailsrestaurant.co.ck
The bar opens until 2am on Friday and midnight on Saturday with live music both nights.
PHone • 27349 www.sailsrestaurant.co.ck www.theweddingguys.co.ck ESCAPE • 33
Muri Village Cheap and cheerful, fresh flavours of Mexico See you there amigo!
OCEANS Restaurant & Bar Crown Beach Resort & Spa Sipping cocktails, while watching the sun dip below the horizon, has got to be one of the best ways to begin an evening of excellent dining. We arrived early for dinner at Oceans Restaurant and Bar, located at Crown Beach Resort and Spa, to do just that. With Pina Colada in hand at one of their beachside tables, my eyes fell on the dessert section of the menu at first glance. I selected the lemon grass and ginger crème brulee with which to finish my meal before anything else.
Casual and friendly Asian street-style café Vietnamese, Indonesian, Chinese, Malaysian, Thai.
Muri Village Phone: 22232 or 75449
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Seafood is a feature of the starters, with my partner choosing the salt and pepper squid. He claimed it was one of the best squid dishes he has ever had. I opted for the seafood samba, a trilogy of te ika mata, tuna carpaccio and fresh prawn spring rolls, all of which were simply delicious. As night fell, we moved into the restaurant to eat our mains, in order to make the most of the live entertainment that features at Oceans four nights a week.
It was a pleasure to listen to the sultry tones of Kura Happ from Triggerfish, while eating my choice of main for the evening – a beef eye fillet, served with local snake beans, gratin potato, tomato tapenade and wild mushroom jus, which arrived at our table just as ordered, medium rare. The lamb curry my partner chose, was a mildly spiced South Indian curry, served with steamed rice, poppadoms, a very tasty fruit chutney and minted yoghurt sauce. Oceans offer a wide range of New Zealand wines, along with a number of exclusive cellared wines -we washed down our mains with a glass or two of Westbrook Marlborough Pinot Noir. The crème brulee lived up to its expectations and was simply delicious, served with vanilla shortbread and a tart berry compote. My partner was equally happy with his chocolate, banana and coconut wontons, served with butterscotch sauce and ice-cream. RS Ocean’s is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner every day, with an Island feast and cultural show on Monday and Thursday evening, and steak night on Friday. They also have the best happy hour on the island with two for one drinks from 3pm to 6pm daily. Tel. 23953 to make a reservation.
Le Bon Vivant Tucked away in uptown Avarua is one of the islands finest dining experiences - Le Bon Vivant. LBV is a cafe by day with great coffee and food, and by night the place to go to for casual fine dining in an intimate setting.
that my friend and I decided to sample as many as we could, sharing the taster plate and the yellow fin tuna carpaccio. The taster plate included four pieces: mahimahi sliders with lemon, mayo and micro greens; pork and prawn dumplings with a chilli plum sauce; chicken liver parfait with cornichons and baguette; and seared scallops in orange beurre blanc.
LBV is a family run business, with owner Tim Tierney, who can be found working in the kitchen most days, and his wife Marie, who produces great baking and breads for both the cafe in Avarua and their new premises in Muri.
They were all cooked perfectly – the carpaccio paired with a sublime lime avocado cream, fresh coriander and extra virgin olive oil, and the dumplings crispy and a perfect match to the piquant flavours of the sauce.
The name itself is something of significance, with Tim explaining that while le bon means good, the word vivant expresses all that is best about the restaurant and themselves – lovers of good food, the life of the party, and all the good things in life.
For our kaikai maata, big plates, I chose the veal scallopini Milanese. The veal was succulent and tasty, and served with lemon parsley linguini and a tomato olive sauce. However, the stand out main had to be my friend’s choice of mahimahi and prawns with herb gnocchi, brown butter, lemon and watercress. The gnocchi was light and the accompanying sauce simply delicious.
Tim says they are very proud of the team they have working for them, and I have to say the excellence of service was indeed one of the highlights of my dinner there. The staff very helpfully suggested meal choices with the best wine to match, from their extensive wine selection. And we discovered that LBV is also able to customise dishes on request. Raurau, or shared platters, begin the dinner menu. They all sounded so good
We were very pleased to find we still had room for dessert, with my selection of chocolate marquise satisfying all my chocolate desires, and my friend discovering a new love for peanut butter with the peanut butter parfait, with banana butterscotch and biscotti. RS
STOP PRESS - LBV MURI At the time of going to print, Le Bon Vivante owners Tim and Marie Tierney were about to open a brand new café in the centre of Muri Village. Beneath spreading flamboyant trees, an old historic homestead built of coral and limestone has been totally transformed into a vibrant café and deli. Tim has an enviable reputation as a chef and produces seriously good food in his other restaurants, Le Bon Vivante Avarua, and Sails Restaurant at Muri Beach. So we can be sure that the food and coffee at this new establishment will not disappoint. The new café also incorporates a deli section where you will find a great selection of imported cheeses, freshly baked breads and pastries, home-made chutneys and pickles and carefully selected wines, including such labels as Te Mata Estate. We look forward to bringing you a review in our next issue.
Located in uptown Avarua, next to Moana Gems. Open daily from Monday to Saturday 8am to 4pm and for dinner Tuesday to Friday from 6pm. Tel. 27619. LBV also offers catering services Visit their Facebook page at LBV-lebonvivantrarotonga, for more information.
Happy hour everyday 4pm - 6pm Each evening we have live music and the following theme nights: Monday - A la carte - Nooroa on Ukelele Tuesday - A la carte - by Island Tunes of Ephraima Wednesday - Island Night Extravaganza by Akirata Performing Arts Troupe Thursday - A la carte - Cathy on Piano Friday - Pig & Prawn Night - Soulful Sounds of Leilani Saturday - A la carte - Surround Sounds Sunday - BBQ Grill Night - Old Classics by Papa Jake
Open Everyday Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner Ph: 23000 for reservations Located at Muri Beach Club Hotel ESCAPE • 35
THE
Flame Tree
R E S TAU R A N T
MURI, RAROTONGA OPEN 7 DAYS FROM 5PM
A relaxed fine dining experience for adults and mature children, featuring EuropeanPacific fusion cuisine, with ‘little people’ menu available.
+682 25 123 www.flamerestaurant.com
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TUPUNA’S RESTAURANT Aitutaki Some years back New Zealand’s Cuisine Magazine visited Aitutaki and was lavish in its praise of Tupuna’s Restaurant. I have visited only occasionally since that review and was fortunate enough recently to dine there once again. The food at Tupuna’s is remarkably good, but the overwhelming impression I was left with on my last visit was one of consistency. Owner and chef Tupuna, continues to create outstanding meals, using mostly local produce, and never fails to deliver to a very high standard. The restaurant is located in the middle of the island and is not easy to find on a dark evening, so when you book ask for instructions, or better still, book a transfer either through the restaurant, or your accommodation. On the evening we visited my partner opted for the Seafood Chowder, and I for the Chilli Lime Fish for starters. The flavoursome chowder was thick and chunky and my fish was marinated in lime and lemon juice and served with a garden salad, drizzled with a paw paw, chilli and olive oil dressing. The flavours were a perfect match for the tender fish.
With a bottle of Lawson’s Dry Hills Sauvignon Blanc half consumed, we decided to keep to a seafood theme. I ordered the Ocean Catch of pan seared wahoo, served with garlic scallops and a chilli mango dressing, accompanied with sautéed cabbage and beans. Wonderful and once again all local produce. My partner opted for one of the restaurant’s signature dishes; Tupuna’s Seared Tuna Fillet. This consists of a tuna fillet stuffed with shrimps, cheese and herbs, topped with creamy pesto all wrapped in a banana leaf and baked. This inspired dish is simply a sea-foodies delight. Do try it! Although totally replete at this stage, we still managed to share a dessert of House Baked Chocolate Cake and Chocolate Ganache which was served with a guava couli and ice cream. Tupuna’s menu includes pasta and curry dishes, chicken and prime New Zealand steaks etc. They also occasionally have a blackboard menu which may include lamb, locally grown pork, and coconut crab. If you’re looking for a relaxed, tropical dining experience where good food is guaranteed, you should try Tupuna’s Restaurant. NB
Open Monday to Saturday from 6pm. Reservations are recommended. Tel 31678. Email. tupunasrestaurant@ aitutaki.net.ck
Tropical Garden Restaurant and Bar “The Sands... bringing great food and people together”
You’ll find us in a unique island setting in Arorangi, just 70 metres from Edgewater Resort. Open 7 nights from 6pm. Taste and feel what the islands are all about in a casual dining atmosphere! • • • •
full a-la-carte menu fresh fish and quality steaks vegetarian and children’s dishes incredible seafood platter for two
Open 7 days for breakfast & dinner with specials menu also available. Enjoy happy hour and daily cocktail specials... enjoy a cocktail on the beach.
ed reservations recommend
ph 20501
Cook Islands catering specialists. Located at Moana Sands Hotel Titikaveka Beach p: (682) 27189 | rarosands@gmail.com www.rarosands.com
t i r i p S n e d The Hid OpeN 7 days
Café & Grill
In the magical surrounds of the 7 acre Maire Nui Tropical Gardens in Tikikaveka
fine dining breakfast & lunch from 8am tapa’s & cocktails from 4pm dinner from 6pm reservations recommended ph:24280 email:sales@littlepolynesian.com www.littlepolynesian.com Top 10 Hotels for Romance in the South Pacific
Cook Islands Leading Boutique Hotel
Open Tuesday, Wednesday & Thursday nights Lunch and afternoon tea until 5pm | Asian fusion grill Fresh organic produce and our famous cheesecake! The Hidden Spirit & Maire Nui Gardens, a jewel of Rarotonga that should not be missed. ESCAPE • 37 Phone for bookings 22796
local recipe
ISLAND STYLE FISH
Pan fried, parmesan crusted mahi-mahi, served over creamy rukau & sweet potato mash, with tropical fruit salsa. Our sincere thanks to Alan Matapo, Head Chef at Kikau Hut Restaurant, for providing us with this recipe. This is a delicate local dish that presents fresh fish that has been lightly coated in bread crumb and parmesan cheese crust, which is quickly pan fried to achieve a crisp outer coating, but leaving the fish moist and tender. The fish is served over a creamy rukau sauce and local sweet potato mash – the rukau provides rich green colour and a light nutty flavour, with the sweet potato providing an earthy depth for the dish. The tropical salsa finishes off this dish, providing an element of sweetness and bright colour that compliments the fish.
Creamy Rukau Sauce Ingredients Bunch fresh Rukau Onion Baking Soda Tin coconut cream
Fish
Sweet Potato Mash
Ingredients
Ingredients
Filets of fresh Mahimahi
Sweet potatoes
Parmesan cheese
Cream or sour cream
Milk Dried bread crumbs Parsley & spring onion Egg
Method Peel and boil sweet potatoes until tender. Drain off the water. Mash with a little cream or sour cream. Season to taste.
Oil & butter Method Dried bread crumbs, finely grated lemon rind, finely chopped parsley and spring onions, grated parmesan cheese and seasoning. Combine together all ingredients. Lightly season fillets of fresh Mahi-mahi. Lightly flour fish fillets. Dunk into egg wash (whisked egg & milk). Roll in crumb mix. Repeat again in egg wash and crumb mix.
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Tropical Salsa Ingredients Star fruit Watermelon Pawpaw Mango, if in season Method Peel the fruit, dice and combine. Set aside in the fridge.
Method Roughly chop a bunch of fresh rukau. In a pot, bring water to boil and add a teaspoon of baking soda. Add the Rukau and boil till tender, then drain and allow to cool. Return to the pot and add a cup of coconut cream & finely diced onions. Season and simmer gently until the onions are tender and it is reduced to a thick sauce.
To Assemble & Present Pan fry the fish for 1 to 2 minutes on each side in a hot pan with a little butter & oil combined. Set aside to rest. In the centre of a warm plate: Place a large spoon of sweet potato mash and flatten off. On top of the mash put a layer of creamy rukau sauce. Finally place the fillet of cooked fish on top. Drizzle with the fruit salsa – around the potato mash and a little over the fish. Serve with a slice of lemon or lime.
offee C t a e r G ervice S t a e r G nsed e c i L y l Ful
“ Where meals and memories are made...”
Relax and enjoy your Breakfast, Lunch, a cup of espresso coffee, an icy cold beer or your favourite drink while gazing out to the beautiful lagoon. We serve authentic Thai food, tasty Mexican, burgers, fish and chips, home-made desserts and much more…
Creative cuisine at affordable prices. Delicious wood-fired pizzas & bread. Roasted Addiqtion Coffee.
Dinner Thursday & Friday from 6pm (seasonal)
Mince Pork Salad
Live entertainment Friday evening
Opening Hours Sunday to Thursday 9:00am – 2:30pm
Down south in Titikaveka
Tel.(+682)20020 S ALTWATER CAFE - R AROTONGA
Phone: 22215
café@salsa.co.ck www.salsa.co.ck
• Fully licensed • Open 7 nights for dinner from 6pm • Gluten free, vegetarian & children catered for • Live music some nights • Reservations appreciated • Transfers by arrangement Kevin, Cathy & staff welcome you
In the centre of town next to CITC
Le Bon Vivante French Style Café Great Coffee Delicious Lunches Fabulous Dinners Serving breakfast & lunch Mon to Sat 7.30am - 5pm Dinner Tue to Fri from 6pm
Phone: +682 26860 Email: kikauhut@oyster.net.ck Situated on the main road at Arorangi (500 mtrs from Edgewater Resort – towards town)
Breakfast Brunch & Lunch Mon to Sat from 7.30am
R E S TA U R A N T
Uptown next to Moana Gems
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local recipe
Pannacotta with local mango Accompanied with chilled watermelon and mint soup, and fresh basil cream with flamed banana. Serves 5 The recipe for this fabulous dessert was provided by the Rapae Bay Restaurant at Pacific Resort, Aitutaki. The dish is predominantly made from local produce. Mangos, bananas, coconuts, watermelon and rosemary are produced on Aitutaki; micro-herbs are grown on Rarotonga.
Mango pannacotta Ingredients 400 gm mangoes 350 ml whipping cream 250 ml coconut cream 60 gm caster sugar 2 tsp gelatine Method Place the mango in the jug of blender and blend until smooth. Place the cream, coconut cream and sugar in a saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring for 2-3min or until heated through. Place the hot water in a heat-proof bowl. Sprinkle with gelatine and whisk with a fork until gelatine dissolves. Add the mango puree to the cream mixture and strain through a fine sieve into a jug. Add the gelatine mixture to the cream mixture and stir to combine. Place moulds on a baking tray, pour the mixture evenly among the moulds. Cover and place in the fridge for 4-6 hours until it sets. Turn the pannacotta onto a serving plate.
Watermelon & mint soup Ingredients 140 gm watermelon 2 gm cornstarch 45 ml Riesling wine 35 ml sugar 2 gm mint Method Blend watermelon in a processor until smooth, strain puree into large bowl, transfer 80ml puree to small bowl, cover and chill. Whisk cornstarch into remaining puree, bring wine and sugar to simmer in a pot, stirring until sugar dissolves. Simmer 3 minutes, add watermelon and cornstarch mixtures and bring to boil while whisking. Transfer soup to bowl add in mint, chill until cold, at least 4 hours, and its ready to serve.
40 • ESCAPE
Basil cream
Flamed banana
Ingredients
Ingredients
60 ml whipping cream
120 gm banana
28 gm caster sugar
65 ml brandy
1 gm fresh basil
40 caster sugar
1 tsp basil essence
1 gm rosemary
Method Beat whipping cream on a slow speed and add in basil essence and fresh chopped basil.
Method Peeled banana coated with rosemary and brandy. Flame and serve.
Sunset ’s BarBBQ eachside Inn
Beachfront Mini Resort On the western leeward side of Rarotonga
On the waterfront at Avana Harbour
at Aro’a
Seafood | Kati Kati | Great local food & cocktails with live local entertainment twice a week. Pub meals also available Reservations required
Phone (682) 22166
www.aroabeach.com
POlynesian RestauRant & BaR the little Restaurant with the Big Reputation!
The Café in a Container!
The freshest sandwiches & salads, all with homemade dressings & pickles, cooked to perfection right on the waterfront. Indoor & Outdoor Dining in an Authentic Island Setting Extensive Menu with a Touch of Tropical Flavours Weddings, Birthdays, Special Occasions Licensed Bar | Open 7 Nights a week from 6pm | Transfers Available Situated right on the beach in Vaimaanga! Reservations Recommended.
Ph 26123 | www.vaimarestaurant.com
The tasty & healthy option! Mon to Fri: 10.00 to 3.30 Sun: 12.00 to 4.00 Sat: Closed
Phone 25553 take-outs available Find us on Facebook
ESCAPE • 41
village life
Kids in the Taro Patch Story & artist: Joan Gragg
I
t’s a beautiful wet morning and the ground is soaking up the soft rain after months of dry weather. It has rained off and on for the last week slowly watering the parched earth. The plants in the garden luxuriate in the rain. It reminded me of growing up in Ruatonga. There were taro patches at the back of our house where we lived. A small creek ran from the mountains to the sea through the taro patches. Water lilies and watercress grew in the ditches around the patches. If one stood on the log that spanned the small creek and looked north to the sea, one could see the creek disappearing into a tangle of au trees, then past the Catholic compound, under a bridge over the main road, and on to the lagoon. In the creek we caught fish, kokopu, shrimp, koura vai, and fresh water eels, tuna.
was removed and given to someone else for safe keeping, time vanished. Bedraggled chickens escaped into the trees when they were full from gorging on the centipedes as the creek turned into a river, making the taro grip the soil while its leaves strained to hold onto its roots against the pull of the racing water.
You could see the taro patches from our house. Imagine how different they looked during a flood. The sight dragged you to the water’s edge tempting you to walk along the pathways between the patches, pulling up your dress above the knees. The closer you came to the creek the higher above the knees the water rose, making it necessary to remove your dress and roll it into a ball to kept it dry. Once the dress
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pieces when pushed or pulled too much. A banana trunk raft is very heavy, so it had to be made on a spot close enough to the flowing water; then it could be pushed into the current when it was ready for launching with the available kid power. There was always an older kid who would enjoy making a raft with the little kids. Retrieving the trunks and bringing them together to tie them up seemed to take more time than actually racing uncontrollably down the river, but then again that was part of the fun. If there were too many big kids they took over the raft making and little kids had to go and do something else, like climbing the au trees that hung over the swift flowing creek. The trick was to hang onto a branch and let the water rush over one’s body while trying not to fall into the creek.
Water had a magnetic attraction to the children in our area and a flood was especially exciting. When it poured the taro patches filled with water. It swallowed up the taro and dislodged all the insects, centipedes, rats and mice from their homes. Pigs and goats squealed and bleated as they were moved to higher ground.
Left: Grownups kept a watchful eye. Below: Bedraggled chickens escaped into the trees.
The enemy of kids having fun in a creek is darkness when the sun sets, and grownups calling their kids home.
Banana trees fell and were dragged along with loose branches into the creek, but something would stop the debris from moving and the rubbish accumulated in one spot. This was a good place to collect material to make a raft. Banana trunks were the best for making a raft because they were easy to cut to size with a bush knife. An ambitious raft used three trunks, but mostly if two trunks could be tied together it was much more stable than riding a single trunk that rolled in the water dumping the rider. I don’t remember going more than a few feet before the raft ran aground or hit a snag and fell to
One never wanted to go home and leave all the excitement, but when the first call echoed in the air and one stopped, one realised that one was shivering from being wet for hours. Fingers were wrinkled and lips were blue, and the friend you gave your dress to look after was not around. Darkness fell suddenly; swallowing up the taro patch as one splashed and shivered all the way home, dreaming of tomorrow and another day in the creek.
Illustrations in this story are from Joan’s Playing Cards of the Cook Islands that are available from selected retailers. See the advertisement on page 15. Joan’s art can also be viewed at The Furniture Centre.
Island Escape Over thirty years ago an Air New Zealand DC10 arrived in Rarotonga, carrying a youthful Australian family on the adventure of a lifetime. Disenchanted with the duties of a suburban housewife and
As fate would have it, during the 1980's a new industry was
never seeing a husband that typically worked 12-16 hour
born on the Island of Manihiki. Black Pearls.
shifts as an electrical engineer, my mother rebelled and escaped to the little known Islands of the South Pacific with a friend & mentor. Having visited Lord Howe and Norfolk Islands, the duo arrived in Rarotonga. The effect was immediate and my mother realised that she had found our new home. Shortly thereafter and much to the chargrin of friends and neighbours, the Bergmans abandoned the suburbs of Melbourne for an unheard of future, on an unknown island. Since that time, my family has built a company specialising in Cook Islands Pearls. Relocating to the northern group Island of Penrhyn for 5 years in 1976, my parents collected natural pearls for European and Asian markets.
Our family business naturally evolved to include these beautiful gems and became the first local company to specialise in Black Pearl Jewellery. Today we operate four shops on two islands and our specialty remains Cook Islands Pearls. On the occasion of our 35th anniversary, I warmly welcome you to our Cook Islands Black Pearl Jewellery Stores to experience a part of our continuing family adventure. And I take this opportunity to bid you Kia Orana and welcome to my adopted home. My name is Ben Bergman, Pearl Jewellery Designer & Director of Bergman & Sons, Black Pearl Jewellers of the Cook Islands. Kia Manuia.
Cooks Corner RAROTONGA Pacific Resort AITUTAKI p +682 21 902 e lukeb@oyster.net.ck w www.bergmanandsons.com ESCAPE • 43
The entrance to Anatakitaki Cave
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I know there is a little place I can go to find peace. For me, that place is an island of caves, birds, and some of the world’s loveliest people.
home
Welcome
ine
Story: Rachel Reeves Photos: Noel Bartley & Brie Mangakahia
ESCAPE • 45
Left: Oneroa Beach. Below: Swimming pool in Anatakitaki Cave. Far bottom: Rimarau Burial Cave. Opposite page: Kaikai time.
W
e were descending into the recesses of a coral island. Each hesitant step took us deeper into Anatakitaki, a vast cave of legends and stillness and intrigue. The sunlight disappeared as we entered one of the island’s cavities. Banyan roots broke through the ceiling and stretched into the blackness below us. If we held our breath the only sound we could hear was a slow drip, squeezing its way out of a stalactite somewhere overhead. It felt like we were walking into some kind of secret, known only by the people of Atiu, a raised volcanic island north of Rarotonga. Locals also know her as Enuamanu, the Land of the Birds, and for good reason. “Shh.” Our guide, Marshall, broke the silence. “Hear it?” Senses heightened, we froze, switched off our headlamps, and listened. I reached for my cousin’s hand in the dark. And then I heard it – a faint clicking, growing louder and nearer, the signature song of the kopeka, a bird found only on Atiu. The tiny winged thing lives in the cave, echolocating its way around the vast darkness to find a nest the size of a dessertspoon. It hunts outside, activating
46 • ESCAPE
vision when it crosses into daylight’s domain. It circles the island for up to 16 hours at a time without landing. But always, it returns to its miniature nest for rest and respite from the outside world. No one’s ever seen it land anywhere else. I’ve thought about the kopeka in the days since I left Atiu, and I’ve decided I can relate to this little guy. I’m navigating my way through a big and busy world, but like him, I know there is a little place I can go to find peace. For me, that place is an island of caves, birds, and some of the world’s loveliest people. Entering the mouth of Anatakitaki marked dual beginnings: of my trip to Atiu and a meaningful journey through my family’s history. Because, like the banyan’s, my roots plunge deep into Atiu’s earth. It is my grandmother’s home island. Her mother, Upoko’ina Po’ona, was Paerangi Mataiapo (a traditional chief of sorts) of the village of Areora, but surrendered her title when she married a European and moved to Rarotonga, a bustling metropolis by comparison. It was my great-grandmother Upoko’ina – we called her Grandma – who gave me the name Te Ana, meaning cave in Cook Islands Maori, the native tongue.
... gnarled jungle, sharp makatea (fossilised coral), grassy swampland, white-sand beach, and verdant hills, a canvas pockmarked all over by caves. Te Ana inhabited the space between my first and surnames, but didn’t carry much meaning until I had the enormous fortune to discover Atiu, a labyrinth of caves – burial caves hiding skulls and bones, caves with secret swimming holes, caves submerged in the sea.
And as I explored those caves, I quietly thanked Grandma for giving me their namesake. I thanked her, too, for the gift of her island in all its unadulterated beauty. She died in 2004, but I know she was with me on Atiu, and I know she heard me. I flew to Atiu with my cousin Brie and a friend, Shannon. I expected the things you’d generally expect from a holiday – laughs, photo ops, organised tours, cocktails on the beach. I wasn’t prepared for what the holiday became – a voyage into our cultural heritage, a spiritual connection to a physical place, and something of a homecoming. It had been decades since our grandmother lived on Atiu, and Brie and I had never met most of her relatives there. Culturally the generations had grown more diluted, and neither of us spoke the language. I was (still am, last I checked) blonde and fair. None of that mattered to the good people who embraced us, fed us, and made us feel like they’d been waiting years for our return. In those people we saw Grandma – her welcoming spirit, her kind eyes, and her gentleness – and because of them we began to understand that we belonged to that remote island community.
It seemed everywhere we went, there were aunties and uncles to meet, stories to absorb, and hugs to reciprocate. Atiu became our experience of te pito enua, literally, the umbilical cord and symbolically, the tie a people feels to a place. This is my story, a story of the deeply resonant way I experienced the Atiuans and their land. While my journey was personal, the locals’ warmth and hospitality was not because of my Cook Islands roots. The Atiuans just have that quintessentially Polynesian spirit of aroa. Atiu is 27 wild and unpredictable square kilometres of gnarled jungle, sharp makatea (fossilised coral), grassy
swampland, white-sand beach, and verdant hills, a canvas pockmarked all over by caves. It’s dramatic, lovely, stark, and lush. “This feels like Jurassic Park,” my wideeyed cousin whispered to me as our host Roger drove us along a road ascending to the centre of the island. (Years ago, missionaries organized the Atiu people into the island’s raised interior, merging them into three villages that today sit about 70 metres above sea level.) Atiu’s topography is raw and untamed but has all the trappings of a Polynesian paradise – blue lagoons, shell-sprinkled beaches, seamless blue skies, fragrant tiare bushes, coconut trees.
u i t A as l l i V
Atiu is an exciting eco island adventure you shouldn’t miss. Make this a prime destination or stop off on your way to, or from Aitutaki for a little extra airfare. Stay in comfort at Atiu Villas, the island’s most experienced hosts. Amenities and services include a licensed restaurant and bar, swimming pool, tennis court, tour packages, rentals and free Wi-Fi for emails.
Book online at: www.atiuvillas.com Ph. (682) 33 777 | Fax. (682) 33 775 | Email. roger@atiuvillas.com | www.atiu.info ESCAPE • 47
On Atiu there’s a kind of harmonious dichotomy: the promise of adventure and peace. It’s like there’s too much to do but zero rush to do it. Locals say almost all tourists complain they didn’t feel they had enough time on Atiu. We arrived, put our suitcases down, and knifed open ripe papayas, and Marshall showed up to take us on a cave tour. We hiked across the makatea, tasted ara
Mei te kopu mai tatou o te enua We come from the land (pandanus) roots, listened for the kopeka, and swam in a cold freshwater pool, and then we emerged, damp and dirty, and hopped into the tray of Marshall’s truck. We pulled up at a tumunu, the thatchedroof legacy of what locals call “the missionary days.” Missionaries forbade
drinking, driving partakers into hidden tumunu, of which seven remain and on any given night are still thriving. For a $5 donation, tourists can join the locals, who offer fruit, friendly questions, and homebrew – Cook Islands moonshine – in a coconut shell. At the tumunu, we mentioned our family name. Recognition registered on the face of an older man. His eyes heavy with homebrew, he recited the names of our ancestors and gave us directions to our family’s land. He didn’t know us, but he knew all that came before us. He knew the roots that supported our branches. We would learn that he was only one of many. That night, we hired a jeep from Atiu Villas and drove into town. The woman who helped us at the local tuck shop turned out to be an aunty who said she’d been expecting us. Word travels fast across
48 • ESCAPE
a small island. We exchanged kisses, swapped stories, and set off, into the night. As our headlights led us further along a rutted road into Atiu’s gray-andgreen jungle, I wondered about the secrets this island was waiting to share with me. We happened upon the open-air tumunu of the Big Night Boys – so-named “because over here we go late”– and we stopped briefly to enjoy a shell or two, the music, and the stars. I asked the barman (whose job it is to dip the shell into a plastic bucket of ‘bush beer’ and pass it around the circle) what life on Atiu is like. He was just a young kid. He grew up in New Zealand’s Tokoroa but moved to the island of his ancestors for a fuller, simpler life. “It’s easy,” he said. “Life is good over here. We can plant and we got pigs. Easy.” His words echoed in my mind the next
Opposite page: On the road near Captain Cooks Landing. Opposite page bottom: Pig Hunting. Right: The endangered Kakerori. Bottom: Rachel fishing for pipi.
morning. I reflected on them as I sat on the veranda of our villa, a cosy wooden A-frame surrounded by a landscape of pine trees and pineapple plantations. Perched there, writing, I felt utterly at peace. It was a louder kind of peace I found several hours later, as I sat in a pew of the Cook Islands Christian Church, surrounded by the powerful a capella harmonies of Cook Islands voices. The mamas were in their woven rito (coconut fibre) hats, the babies in pareu print and patent-leather shoes, and the men in suits and jandals, and as they raised their voices to heaven, Atiu felt like the most spirit-filled place in the world.
take the love of our Atiu people with you,” he said from the pulpit. We blushed. The love of the Atiu people had already seeped into our souls. “We thank you for coming. Tell your friends to come. Tell them on Facebook.” We laughed at the irony, because in that moment we wanted nothing to do with an Internet connection. Sunday (“Muck-around-Day,” an aunty told us after church) we spent sunning in hidden coves, swimming, and building palm-frond forts on the beach. At dusk a bird led us back to our villa (seriously), where another relative was waiting with a bucket of taro and fresh maroro (flying fish).
Our newfound uncle drove us to see our sections of family land, their boundaries delineated by “that coconut tree” and “over there, that one.” There was more family to meet and greet – an aunty who welcomed us home, another who sold us doughnuts, still another whose eyes
e ka oki akao tatou ki te enua. and go back to the land. I looked at my cousin and she looked at me, and we both knew Grandma was there with us. Interrupting our thoughts and his sermon, the pastor paused to welcome us in English. “We hope that when you go back to where you came from, you will
sparkled when she spoke of our greatgrandmother – and there was still so much more of Atiu to see. One afternoon we went fishing with the villas’ former barman, as per Roger’s recommendation. Andrew took us to the edge of Atiu and had admirable patience with us as we cast every which way but the right way. We stood on an exposed reef, waves crashing against our shins, rising from the depths of a blue sea, their faces glassy and their crests foamy. We’ve no idea how, but our bait of fresh crab hooked enough pipi (similar to snapper) for a full meal, which we barbecued outdoors that evening against the backdrop of a setting sun. Fishing was a rather less cringe-inspiring way to catch our own dinner than, say, hunting for wild pig, which is what we did at 5 a.m. the next day.
ESCAPE • 49
ATIU COFFEE
Atiu Fibre Arts Studio traditional and contemporary textile art www.atiu-fibrearts.com
ATIU COFFEE
Atiu
Guesthous
Step off the beaten tra Visit the Atiu Coffee Factory and plantations. Taste our organically-grown and sun-dried Arabica coffee. www.atiu-coffee.com
Stay at Atiu Guesthous and become part of village on our secluded island
www.atiu-guesthouse.c
Atiu
Guesthouse
Local mamas
Before dawn, we said a prayer, and our guide, Nookura, let the ravenous dogs out of the truck. Nookura carried a rifle, wore no shoes, and cut through the bramble with a bush knife. We trailed cautiously behind. And before we knew it, there was a frenzy of barking and shrieking and yelling in the tall grass ahead, and then Nookura’s head appeared.
Visit the Atiu Coffee Factory and plantations. Taste our organically-grown and sun-dried Arabica coffee. www.atiu-coffee.com
Atiu
Guesthouse
“Welcome back home ine,” she said to us. “This is your enua (land). When you go, you leave the coconut trees behind, Step off the beaten track. but we will look after “Who’s gonna do it?” he yelled at us, Stay at Atiu Guesthouse holding a knife in the air. Awkward them for you.” and become part of village life hesitation.
on our secluded island.
One morning I climbed in Papa Paiere’s Shannon found the courage, and inspired www.atiu-guesthouse.com truck. He and I ambled around Atiu in first by her I had my turn later. I’ll say this to gear, and as we passed crumbling marae the hunters: now I get it. (communal sacred places) and fertile taro patches he talked of ancient history, Another afternoon, we took a cave tour chiefs, and lineage. I hung on his stories with a guide named Paul. Silently he led and his words, and with each I more fully us across the makatea, into the sloping appreciated that enigmatic island. mouth of a cave, and onto a high ledge towering over a tiny pool. He slipped off his gumboots and as he prepared to dive, Brie yelped. “Have you done this before?” He looked at her, incredulous. “This my cave!” he said, grinning, and jumped.
Step off the beaten track. Stay at Atiu Guesthouse and become part of village life on our secluded island. 50 • ESCAPE
www.atiu-guesthouse.com
The sun streamed through cracks in the ceiling, we treaded in cold, fresh water, and we watched Paul expertly jump several times, and wordlessly we were saying the same thing: This is the life.
One night a local dance team cut its practice short so its leaders could join us for doughnuts and bush beer in a corrugated-iron shack decorated with pareu – a tumunu called Vai Tamina (literally, water that makes your head crazy). We were proffered drum sets of buckets and twigs, and the locals laughed with (at) us at our amateur attempts to play them, but still they courteously bobbed their heads and grinned.
“Welcome home,” one smiling woman said to me. She took a drag from her cigarette and exhaled, contemplative, her eyes boring into mine. “I see your grandmother in your face.” I hadn’t even introduced myself. It was as if no time had passed, and our family had never left. The morning of our flight out, we accepted Aunty Patikura’s invitation to breakfast, delivered via an uncle that appeared at our villa. After our aunty matter-of-factly set to matchmaking our friend Shannon with her grandson – “Sorry, you can’t marry him,” she said to Brie and I, “You’re Atiuan” – her eyes hardened and the words began to spill from her lips. “Welcome back home ine,” she said to us. “This is your enua (land). When you go, you leave the coconut trees behind, but we will look after them for you.” Her eyes ran over with tears as she apologised that we stayed elsewhere and not with her. “I told my grandmother and my grandfather before they closed their eyes that I would look after my family and you are my family. We look after our family. This is not our culture, this is the culture of our ancestors,” she told us. “You are our blood. Even though you are papa’a (foreign) you are Atiuan, and even if I have nothing – even if I have only banana and
taro – I will give it to you. This is how we do things.
birdman GEORGE
“We want to teach you about the family and the land and the ancestors, pepe (baby).You come back. Don’t wait until my eyes are closed to come back.” Hushed by her words, we went silently to our villa to pack our things. More relatives were there, waiting for us with ei (flower garlands). “We are so sorry we didn’t come before,” Aunty Meamea said. “The family didn’t know you were here.” Brie and I looked at each other and smiled at the irony. Now, whenever life gets crowded and complicated, I think of Atiu – her beaches, her caves, her kopeka, and her people, full of love and warmth – and I dream of the day I will return. And after you’ve visited, I promise you’ll do the same.
A unique island. A unique guide. Let George show you the highlights of Atiu. Explore the ancient trails, discover the birds, learn the uses of many plants, visit a burial cave, verify the recovery of the near extinct Kakerori bird and picnic island-style at a secluded beach. Atui’s most popular guide!
Phone 33047
Email: atiu@ihug.co.nz
fact file: I stayed with Roger & Kura Malcolm at Atiu Villas, which was convenient (rental vehicles, restaurant etc) and comfortable. There are other places to stay – among them, Are Manuiri, Atiu B&B, Kopeka Lodge, Taparere Lodge, Kia Orana Bungalows and Matavai Lodge. Ask your host about available tours, what to wear for church, and tumunu protocol. Atiu is a 45 minute flight north-east from Rarotonga and there are regular scheduled flights. Book through Air Rarotonga Travel Centre. Tel: (682) 22888 | www.airraro.com
Phone. (682)33041 | Email. marshall@atiutours.co.ck | Web. atiutoursaccommodation.com
Atiu Tours ’
Atiu B&B Jeanne’s Art
Enjoy personalised bed & breakfast service plus the luxury of a comfortable home away from home. Lunch, dinner & vehicle hire also available.
Irresistible images of Cook Islands flora & fauna
- available from Atiu, Koru Café Aitutaki, Island Living Rarotonga. Email: jeannehumphreysart@gmail.com
Marshall’s Discovery Island Tour, Anatakitaki Kopeka Bird Caves, Rimarau Burial Cave. Secluded beaches, tropical rainforest, amazing caves, rich bird life, ESCAPE • 51 fascinating archeology & legends.
52 • ESCAPE
heaven
Sevens in
Story and Photos: Matariki Wilson – Cook Islands News
“Rugby sevens and All Blacks great Jonah Lomu were discovered in the Cook Islands.” I
t’s a story the man that introduced the short and faster version of rugby union likes to tell. Over 20 years ago, local sports legend Amene Rangi introduced rugby sevens to the islands. Today it’s one of the most popular sports and sports festival in the Cook Islands. In 1979 the first rugby sevens competition, a business house tournament, began in Rarotonga and the naturally talented island athletes showed flare for the game that called for speed and agility and quick thinking. With seven players on the field – the game is played at a frantic pace with loads of side stepping and run away action over the two seven minute halves, making for a sensational experience for spectators. By the late 80’s, rugby sevens was a regular fixture on the local sporting calendar along with rugby league, netball, football and cricket to name a few. With the code also growing in popularity globally, Amene decided it was time that island sevens players rubbed shoulders with the big boys. And so the first Cook Islands international sevens tournament was staged in 1989, with sixteen local teams that included two international sevens players, to influence island athletes by evolving the game. It was in these early years of the tournament that rising stars of rugby sevens came to the
islands – lured no doubt by the idea of visiting tropical Rarotonga and soaking up the sun and playing sevens in paradise. Eric Rush and Jonah Lomu were among the young talents that visited the islands to play sevens, where they were ‘discovered’ before they became household names in the global sports community. The list of early stars that flocked to the islands to play rugby sevens included Graeme Bachop, Richard Turner, and from Fiji the likes of Waisale Serevi and Paule Bale. Players and teams have also taken part from Fiji, Samoa, USA, Tahiti, New Zealand and Australia. Jonah Lomu went on to become one the greatest ever All Black players and legend of the game. Eric Rush returns regularly to Rarotonga as an ambassador of the game and even coached the winning 2012 international ‘Sevens in Heaven’ tournament team –the Teimurimotea Stallions from the southern Rarotongan village of Titikaveka. But Cook Islanders were not content to just play their rugby sevens at home. There was a desire to be recognized on the international stage as well. And so a four-year development plan saw the national team entering the Punta Del Estes Tournament and travelling to Ecuador during Christmas 1994, in order to qualify for the 1995 World Cup. This team, coached by another Cook Islands sporting legend George George, not only qualified but also went on to
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finish 10th equal with Scotland at the World Cup a year later. George again took the team to Kuala Lumpur in 1998 where the Cook Islands won the plate division by defeating Tonga in the final. Today, rugby sevens is not only synonymous with speedy super stars – it goes hand in hand with partying and dress ups. As the code became a marketing and money-making giant, it was an easy transition for the Cooks to include a ‘festival’ atmosphere to the local tournament, that is now a part of rugby sevens culture. After all – playing sports and having a good time is something the people of the Cook Islands know how to do, and do well. We are after all, not just a balmy tropical god-fearing Christian nation, but a sports loving one as well. During the past 10 years, the Cook Islands international ‘Sevens in Heaven’ tournament has not only grown to include age grade matches and women’s teams – it has also developed a real festive atmosphere.
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... playing sports and having a good time is something the people of the Cook Islands know how to do, and do well.
Although it’s not the Wellington or Hong Kong sevens, where hundreds of thousands flock to the games in colourful eye catching attire, to enjoy the party atmosphere. Here in paradise, the party and dress up atmosphere is very much island style!
The fun begins after a traditional opening prayer with a charity dash for cash, where teams pit their fastest players against each other for the quickest 100 metres dash down the main strip in Avarua. The cash won, sponsored by the ANZ Bank, is then donated by the winning team to the charity of their choice.
Held over three days - Thursday through to Saturday – the international tournament includes a parade of all teams through the main Avarua township, where locals and visitors alike get to see their Cook Islands and international heroes up close and personal, marching in their team colours.
One of the largest employees of Cook Islanders, the Cook Islands Trading Corporation (CITC) have been the presenting partner of the tournament for a number of years and contribute prize money for a number of novelty events designed to get the wider community behind the tournament. These events include a spectator dash for cash, best dressed spectator, and best dressed supporter’s team and even a mad hatter’s competition, with prize money and products up for grabs.
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Adding to the party and celebration atmosphere is a corporate tent that is set up in a prime position, at the mostly alcohol free BCI National Stadium, where all the rugby sevens hype and action is centred. The corporate tent allows ticket holders to enjoy a cold beer, excellent finger foods by one of the islands top chefs and comfortable seating right on the eastern try line of the field. It’s a great place to view the best of the international sevens action. Creatively costumed groups of revellers add to the party atmosphere
International Sevens tournament a major draw-card on the Cook Islands events calendar.
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And after the games you can let loose and socialize, with both players and spectators alike, at the field and at Rarotonga’s popular bars and night clubs…
fact file: The 2013 Sevens in Heaven tournament and festivities will be held from Thursday October 31st to Saturday November 2nd. Check with Cook Islands Tourism (Tel. 29435) for detailed information.
A public bar also opens on game days in a designated area. The remaining grounds, including the popular stadium embankments, are popular with sun worshipers and family groups with their picnic baskets and blankets. The embankment picnic area and covered stadium are alcohol free. The intimate feel of this event, where you can walk up to your favorite player at the tournament and shake his or her hands, and congratulate them on their performance, makes the Rarotonga
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Story: Calida Smylie
It’s nice to live in
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It’s when restaurateur Sue Carruthers travels that she appreciates Rarotonga the most. Originally from Kenya, Sue has lived in the Cook Islands for three decades. She set sail from Africa in 1979 and ended up in Rarotonga – via sailing and working through Florida, the Bahamas, the Panama Canal, French Polynesia and New Zealand.
S
ue is ingrained in the Cook Islands’ hospitality industry. The vivacious 65-year-old started up Italian restaurant Portofino in 1983 after noticing the dearth of restaurants in Rarotonga. After leaving Portofino in 1988, she opened Flame Tree Restaurant in Muri, which she sold in 2000. Then, together with local husband Robert Brown, she ran Ambala Garden & Café during the weekends from their home in Muri, before opening Tamarind House Restaurant for seaside fine-dining in 2004. The most famous guest to dine at Tamarind House to date has been former US secretary of state Hilary Clinton, during the Pacific Leaders Forum last year.
While her patronage raised Tamarind’s – and the Cooks – profile worldwide, Sue says she was not too star-struck. “I’m not really into famous people… their money is the same as anyone else’s.” Last year, Sue also started the 24-seat Vietnamese restaurant Rickshaw, in Muri. “Rickshaw is going good. The whole concept there was an Asian street café nothing pretentious, reasonable prices, quick and easy. When Muri’s busy we’re packed every night.” With Sue’s hospitality history one would think she would have been formally trained – not so. She started off in the sixties, working in a restaurant in London to fund her fare back to Africa after finishing business school, and loved it. “At school I studied Russian, French and German – I didn’t do any cooking and I didn’t expect to become a chef.” She quickly worked her way up from
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dishwasher, to preparing the salads and hors d’oeuvres and finally to head chef. The experience paid off and at the young age of just 24, she started her own restaurant in Cape Town – and has now been in the business for 45 years. Sue and Robert are absolutely hands-on at the age most retire. In fact they started up Tamarind after getting bored while trying to ease out of work with Ambala Gardens. The hospitality business has unsociable hours and doesn’t leave much time spare. “Oh there’s none. There’s literally none,” says Sue. She admits she “doesn’t get much of a life” outside work, although wishes she had more time for her painting. For the first time in years, they have reduced the number of days they open for lunch at Tamarind House Restaurant. “It gives us breathing time…for eight years we’ve done nothing but work, really very hard.” The couple also makes sure they get a good three-week break each year to travel. “That’s the time we crowd in all the time we don’t have off throughout the year, and
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we really have fun. We go shopping and eating. We go on cooking courses and we have a fantastic time.” Sue admits the businesses are hard work at times and she is thinking about getting a manager in to take the load off. This doesn’t mean she will take a backseat though, as she still loves the creative side of the business – designing menus, getting into the kitchen to help out and writing cook books, which she has had success with over the last 10 years. “I’m certainly not sick of food. When we’re planning a holiday we only go places that have nice food. We’ll certainly never go any place where the food is dull. “I like to go where there’s lots of lovely fresh seafood, lots of spices – Italy, Vietnam, South East Asia, India.”
“It’s all about food for me and I’m not going to change now. I go on these endless diets but there are just all these lovely flavours. I don’t think I’m ever going to be skinny that’s for sure,” she laughs. For a woman who bases her life around food, Rarotonga thirty years ago must have seemed a slightly odd place to settle in. Sue admits it was a challenge to get anything more than corned beef. “It was a complete and utter nightmare to get the ingredients to run a good Italian restaurant. No one knew what lasagna sheets were, Parmesan cheese didn’t exist, you couldn’t even get Cheddar. The only cheese you could get here was that horrible gummy stuff - what was it called? …Chesdale. If you actually tried to grate it, it turned into a hard lump. We had to bring all our own stuff in and it seemed were always waiting for the next ship.”
For a woman who bases her life around food, Rarotonga thirty years ago must have seemed a slightly odd place to settle in. Sue admits it was a challenge to get anything more than corned beef.
TAMARIND HOUSE Opposite page bottom: Teenage years in Kenya. Left: Cruising aboard 'Rafiki' in the 1980’s. Below: Shopping for fresh produce in Paris.
“We’ve seen a lot of people come and go here because they can’t tolerate the hardships, the shortages. It’s a different culture with a different attitude towards work.” “We’re never short of fish – all the fishermen know us and phone us when they’ve got a catch. On Sunday, we just drove down to the harbour and got a huge tuna - just like that.” An accepting attitude has helped Sue take challenges in her stride, which she believes she developed while growing up in Africa. “We’ve seen a lot of people come and go here because they can’t tolerate the hardships, the shortages. It’s a different culture with a different attitude towards work.” The first thing Sue did was plant a herb garden and learnt to make her own pasta and tomato sauces. She still makes all her restaurants’ chutneys and chili sauces. She says the quality and variety of food here now is “fantastic” compared to the old days and especially suits those who like a diet of fresh fish and vegetables and tropical fruit, like herself. “You can get wonderful fresh ingredients here – there are beautiful tomatoes at roadside stalls. Now there is hydroponics and people are growing the best herbs in the world. Vietnamese mint, Thai basil, lemon balm and all sorts of stuff. It’s joyful to what it used to be like.”
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“I think coming from Africa is important for me, because I can respect a culture and know I can’t change it and wouldn’t want to try. Basically, if you don’t like it, then ship out. You can understand the way the locals might feel when people come in and try to change them.” Sue says many of the values in the Cook Islands are the same in Africa, especially strong family bonds. She remembers an idyllic childhood growing up in Mombasa, Kenya, where her father was a policeman and her mother a housewife. The Kenyan coastline is very like Rarotonga’s, she says. “Everyone swam and snorkeled. None of us were ever indoors in the daytime, unless it was raining and then we read.”
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PHONE 26487 ESCAPE • 61
Right: One of Sue's art exhibitions, with daughter Pasha. Below: With husband Robbie on the Paris metro.
“We’d go for a drive and suddenly there’d be lions, a herd of Thomson’s gazelle, an irate rhino, crossing the road. And there’d be elephants snorting out – how could you beat that?” Rarotonga is Sue’s home now but she still feels a pull back to Africa and thinks she always will. She wants to keep doing safaris until she dies, staying in a tent with lions roaring in the night. “I have one foot in Africa; I think all Africans feel that way.” Despite her nostalgia about the place of her birth, Sue is realistic about a life there – because of high crime rates and the slaughtering of wildlife for black-market aphrodisiacs – something Sue feels very strongly against.
“And then you come back here and oh – the air is so clean. We sat there on the beach, the sea was sparking and the sand was white and I said to Robbie, ‘this is just like paradise’. And we wonder why we left,” says Sue with a chuckle.
“I would actually like to see everyone involved in that market castrated. I think that would be a very good idea indeed. The word would soon get out that it just isn’t worth it,” she says in her dry drawl. “I just feel so strongly about this poaching. There won’t be any of these animals left. It’s very upsetting actually. It won’t stop because people can make such a lot of money; it’s like drugs.”
Travel keeps Sue sane while living on a small island, but is also an eye-opener as to the extent of the world’s social and environmental problems. On recent trip to China, Sue felt like Rip Van Winkle coming down from the mountains after decades asleep. “It was under a toxic cloud. Everything was grey. Grey, grey, grey, and everyone was wearing these little masks. And I thought, my God, this is their lives and they’re all going round wearing these masks.” “And then you come back here and oh – the air is so clean. We sat there on the beach, the sea was sparking and the sand was white and I said to Robbie, ‘this is just like paradise’. And we wonder why we left,” says Sue with a chuckle. “It’s nice to live in paradise so you can go travelling and gloat.”
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Te Tika
Wide acclaim for Cook Islands skin care products that are a fusion of Maori medicine and science.
A
Cook Islander took the stage at the Cook Islands National Economic Summit in 2011 and made an announcement that triggered thunderous applause. At the time, Dr Graham Matheson hadn’t yet publicised his groundbreaking research. He and his Sydney-based company, CIMTECH (Cook Islands Medical Technologies) were using a native Cook Islands plant to create a skin-regenerating beauty product, and had big plans to pump it through the veins of the international retail market.
The product would derive from the koariki plant, which would be grown and harvested locally, and would ride the coattails of CIMTECH’s marketing budget. For a small community whose primary sources of pride are land and cultural resources, Matheson’s revelation made ripples. The proposal was the talk of the town and crept into many a coffeehouse conversation. People were proud of Matheson’s vision and the drop in the economic pond his company was hoping to make. In the months following that initial announcement, Matheson’s team finetuned its product and launched TeTika, a skin care line that has since won regionwide acclaim and nods in such big-name magazines as Australia Women’s Weekly, Grazia, New Weekly, OK!, Women’s Fitness, and Good Health. Plastic and cosmetic surgeons in Australia are also starting to recommend it. Perhaps the most surprising success, though, has been at home. While the initial announcement created a stir in the Rarotonga community, the CIMTECH team wasn’t expecting locals to flock so eagerly to the shelves of local retailer CITC. Already, they reasoned, the Cook Islands had its timehonored oils and plantbased remedies.
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They were thrilled that Cook Islanders embraced the product as their own, and now comprise a big chunk of the consumer market. In fact, the day after TeTika’s August launch – a beachside affair in Rarotonga with dancing and drums – CITC sold out of some products entirely. “We sold in the Cook Islands our entire first year’s budget in the first month. Stock ran out,” Matheson said. CIMTECH’s chief operating officer, Tony Romagnino, says Cook Islanders have taken ownership of TeTika because Matheson is a local, and from the beginning knew which channels to go through. In 2003, CIMTECH established a formal and financial relationship with the Koutu Nui, a group of traditional leaders, who gave the company permission to research Cook Islands medicine. “Graham developed a very strong partnership with the Koutu Nui from the outset and with their support we’ve been able to create an exceptional story,” Romagnino wrote in an email. At the time, then-head of the Koutu Nui, the late Dorice Reid, was fully supportive of CIMTECH’s fusion of Maori medicine and science. For her and for Matheson, that was the most exciting part of the project – its affirmation that today’s world has much to learn from ancient island practice. “Our traditional medicine actually had a regenerative effect; we did science to prove it and develop a product based on it, and we are actually seeing the effects we expected from bioactive Cook Islands oils. They are making an impact on people’s skin, and that’s one of the most rewarding aspects of the program to date,” Matheson said. “It’s a nod to having a good look at it and to say, okay, what have we learned from our forefathers and how much of it is applicable today? And if it is, let’s certainly make use of it in a way that makes sense, rather than putting it in the history and legends basket.”
AVAILABLE AT
CIMTECH has developed a flourishing export operation on Rarotonga. To ward against the threat of cyclone damage, koariki plantations have been established all over the island –on Oneroa, a motu off Muri Beach, and in Turangi, Takuvaine, Matavera, and Aro’a. “We don’t own or lease the land,” Matheson explained. “We provide the seedlings to growers who have agreed to put aside the land and grow in a particular manner, with no pesticides or herbicides or insecticides or fertilizers. All are grown in natural conditions.” To date TeTika is exporting to New Zealand, USA, and Canada, and is in the process of sending samples to Tahiti. The brand is beginning to appear in Australian pharmacies, averaging one new store a week. CIMTECH’s target is to have TeTika in 30 Australian outlets by the end of June 2013.
It seems it is doing both. CITC Pharmacist Shannon Saunders, who sells the skincare range and uses it herself, says she loves TeTika because it works. “Tourists want something local,” she said. “And TeTika has such a great story to tell, everyone falls in love with it.”
fact file TeTika is available locally at CITC Pharmacy (Avarua Mainstore), CITC Duty Free (Rarotonga International Airport), Te Manava Spa (Pacific Resort, Rarotonga), and Tiare Spa (Pacific Resort Aitutaki). Products include Water Spirit Cleansing Lotion, Sunset Glow Face and Body Oil, Pearl Blue Day Cream, Pacific Dream Night Cream, Ocean Splash Face Wash and Polish Gel, Island Wonder Eye Serum, and Rain Forest Hand Cream.
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For the Cook Islands, the advantages of TeTika’s export operation are name recognition and brand awareness. “One of the first questions from customers is always ‘Where are the Cook Islands?’” Matheson said. “The packaging and promotional material we use has actually been specifically designed to co-promote the Cook Islands.” Opening the lid reveals an old-fashioned map of the South Pacific, pinpointing the Cook Islands. The primary active ingredient is listed as Bioactive Cook Islands oils and the words Cook Islands are clearly stamped on all products and advertising materials. “We’re hopeful that even if our advertisement doesn’t generate people buying products, it will generate interest in the Cook Islands,” Matheson said.
AVARUA SHOPPING CENTRE
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Aitutaki is 220 kilometers north and an easy 45 minute flight from Rarotonga, the capital of the Cook Islands. Considered one of the most magnificent lagoons in the world with small uninhabited islands on its surrounding reef, it is unquestionably the most picturesque of the Cooks southern group islands.
Aitutaki a little slice of heaven
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m
any visitors to the Cook Islands take the opportunity to discover Aitutaki’s beauty by taking a day trip from Rarotonga, which usually includes a cruise on the lagoon. However, the luxury of a little extra time fully reveals the stunning palette of a tropical retreat unsurpassed anywhere in the world; and a welcoming and friendly local populace who live life at an easy, relaxed pace. So if you’re considering a visit - stay over a night or two, or preferably longer; you will not be disappointed. And certainly, a visit to the Cook Islands is not complete without visiting Aitutaki. It is a place of unsurpassed natural beauty and simple tranquility, providing a rejuvenating tonic to sooth away the pressures of the outside world. The breathtaking allure of its crystal clear turquoise waters and sparkling white beaches confirms that it is “one of the places to visit while you are still on this earth”. From the air this island paradise has to be one of the most beautiful sights in the South Pacific. Aitutaki is made up of a triangular-shaped reef encompassing an aqua lagoon in which three volcanic and twelve small coral islands nestle. A small island is known locally as a motu. The best thing about Aitutaki is undoubtedly its lagoon. They have taxis here, but rather than those normally found on land, these are small fast boats equipped with outboard motors. They can take you to your own private island where you can spend the day snorkeling, sunbathing or having a picnic, and then pick you up after several restful, sun-filled hours. There are also numerous lagoon tours, which last almost an entire day. Lunch, refreshments, snorkeling gear, and towels are always provided and nearly all tour operators can pick you up from the airport, or your hotel. Possibly the most well-
From the air this island paradise has to be one of the most beautiful sights in the South Pacific. Aitutaki is made up of a triangular-shaped reef encompassing an aqua lagoon in which three volcanic and twelve small coral islands nestle. known is Air Rarotonga’s day tour onboard Titi-ai-Tonga, a large double hulled vessel that cruises languidly in the lagoon. Sit down meals are served by friendly staff, and after snorkeling in the lagoon visitors are taken to One Foot Island (Tapuaetai). Bishops Cruises is perhaps the lagoon’s most experienced and they offer a choice of cruises to various islands. And you can opt for a smaller boat with a more intimate and personal tour if you wish. After a wonderful morning of snorkeling and feeding the fish, lunch is usually served at One Foot Island which boasts what could be the world’s smallest Post Office. Don’t forget to take your passport with you; because you can have it stamped here, making a great souvenir of your visit. This vast lagoon was once a stopover for the TEAL (Tasman Empire Airways Limited) Short Solent flying boats traveling the renowned ‘Coral Route’ through the South Pacific. TEAL is the former name of Air New Zealand and TEAL themery can be found in a small lodge on Motu Akaiami. The lodge has been built on the exact spot where the original terminal stood and remains of the original base and jetty are still visible
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The best thing about Aitutaki is undoubtedly its lagoon... you can spend the day snorkeling, sunbathing or having a picnic...
today. Here the well-to-do of the fifties, including movie stars John Wayne, Cary Grant and the like, stopped for a few hours or even overnight, while planes were refuelled, serviced, or waiting for weather to clear. Passengers would swim in the clear warm waters in the bay, shower outdoors under the palms and eat lunches of crisply cut sandwiches and local pawpaw, before re-embarking. Aitutaki has an interesting aviation history. It was 1942 when the construction juggernaut that would soon become known as the Seabees came ashore and began constructing what many feared would be the last line of defence for allied forces fighting the Japanese. The airport
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at Aitutaki was constructed as part of operation Bobcat. With their slogan ”we build – we fight”, the Seabees soon had the island air-base operational; just in time to see them move from this part of the Pacific, as they pursued the Japanese further to the north and west. The runway has recently been completely rebuilt. Charmingly small, quaint even, Aitutaki airport is the busiest it’s been since the war days. Back further in time; the first European discovery was by Captain Bligh sailing on the Bounty in 1789. He sighted the island just 17 days prior to the infamous mutiny. Bligh returned later to Aitutaki and is said to have introduced the pawpaw which, like
other varieties of tropical fruit, grows in abundance all over the island. 50 years later the first missionary, the Reverend John Williams of The London Missionary Society, introduced Christianity to Aitutaki and the Cook Islands Christian Church, down by the wharf at Arutanga, became the very first Church built in the Cook Islands. A grand old lady with coral walls, stained glass windows and ornate ceiling decorations, she is a constant inspiration to locals and a reminder that Aitutaki was the first of the nation’s islands to embrace Christianity. Delving further into the islands past is local trainee archaeologist Ngaakitai Pureariki.
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www.tamanubeach.com ESCAPE • 69
A grand old lady with coral walls, stained glass windows and ornate ceiling decorations, she is a constant inspiration to locals and a reminder that Aitutaki was the first of the nation’s islands to embrace Christianity. island, visiting ancient sites, burial grounds and major points of interest. Most serve light refreshments or lunch. Island nights with cultural shows are on throughout the week. Experiences not be missed are the island nights at Pacific Resort Aitutaki, Samade On The Beach and Tamanu Beach. Some of the best meals using local produce are to be savoured at Café Tupuna, Boatshed Bar & Grill and Te Vaka Bar & Grill. On the waterfront near the wharf at Arutanga, is the Aitutaki Game Fishing Club which has a bar inside
On a four acre sight in one of Aitutaki’s bush-clad valleys Nga’a is uncovering remnants of his peoples ancient past on a site strewn with large obelisk-like stones. Carbon dating of samples reveal that the Marae at Paengariki was established around 1000 A.D. Warriors met here before and after battle; sacred feasts and coming-of-age ceremonies were celebrated and human sacrifice took place. This is a fascinating place to visit. Visitors will find a wide range of accommodation options available on the main island; from award-winning resorts to less expensive clean and comfortable motels and backpacker operations. The best way to see the Aitutaki mainland is by hired car or motor scooter. A winding road criss-crossing the island and lots of small tracks, lead to interesting, unexpected places and a number of local villages. A short drive up Maunga Pu provides a fantastic 360 degrees lookout of the entire vista – whichever way you turn. Several guided tours are available on the main
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a shipping container; this is a good place to make contacts for deep sea fishing enthusiasts. At O’otu Beach you’ll find the Koru Café is an ideal spot for lunch and Samade Restaurant & Bar, a great place for a meal any time of the day or night, or for lazing away long hours on a white sandy beach. Fishing aficionados will be in heaven on Aitutaki, as several operators offer game and sport fishing beyond the reef and there is always the call of the elusive
POPOARA RENTALS AitutAki bone-fish within the lagoon. Scuba diving is excellent in clear, warm waters and there is a choice of accredited operators who will show you a great time and a memorable underwater experience. Hot sun, white sands, swaying coconut palms, a stunning turquoise lagoon and romantic sunsets - Aitutaki is blessed with them all; and friendly, laughing people that make you feel very welcome – all the time.
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secret Garden Aitutaki's Story: Calida Smylie
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B
ill Tschan can talk all day about his garden. He can talk about the exact origin of each plant, its botanical name, and what its medicinal properties are. He can tell you when it was planted, when it will flower, when it will fruit, and most likely, the exact moment when that fruit will thud to the rich earth below. “I can’t even show you everything, or we will be here until 4 o’clock,” he says, shaking his head somewhat sadly as he surveyed his three-acre garden. It was a good many hours before that time, but I did not doubt him.
The keen botanist has collected seeds for over 100 exotic fruit varieties from friends around the world – many have heard about his garden and are keen to contribute. The keen botanist has collected seeds for over 100 exotic fruit varieties from friends around the world – many have heard about his garden and are keen to contribute. Bill also belongs to a rare fruit society with a seed bank – but he’s not fussy. “So like these ones here, two years ago they were selling them in Sydney for the first time. They are called achacha, they’re Bolivian. The fruit is a yellow fruit like mangosteen – the queen of fruit. I got my daughter in Sydney to buy the fruit, eat them and tell me what she thinks and then send me the seeds.”
ESCAPE • 73
BOUTIQUE BEACH VILLAS AITUTAKI, COOK ISLANDS
Bill is 67-years-old and credits his more youthful looks to eating 10 different organic fruits each breakfast. Originally from Bern in Switzerland, Bill moved to Rarotonga in 1968 and then Aitutaki in 2002. This garden is no retiree’s quiet hobby. Bill works on his garden – the whole section had to be cleared of wild scrub when he began only 10 years ago – from sun-up until late afternoon every day. “I have to start tomorrow on this grass,” he says, kicking out at it with his boot. It takes Bill five days to cut the grass. He cuts it every 10 days.
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Prime beachfront location with twelve individual air-conditioned bungalows in lush garden setting for couples and families. Lagoon-front with sand floor restaurant and bar open daily for all meals. Wifi, ipod docking stations, kayaks, standup paddle boards, sun loungers, lagoon tours, taxi services and private charters, weddings, tour and rentals desk. And one of the best swimming beaches on Aitutaki.
Tel: (682) 31 526 | Email: samade@aitutakivillage.com www.samadeonthebeach.com 74 • ESCAPE
These are no manicured gardens, with neat lawns, pottages and topiary flourishes – it is wild and secret and smells heady with pollen. Bill has four daughters and a wife, so had to divide the plot into five sections to keep everyone happy. “I couldn’t just put lemons at one place and something else in like a botanical garden, otherwise my daughters would be getting mad at me, so I had to spread everything out – a mass of everything,” he explains in his clipped Swiss-German drawl. The result is an explosion of colour. Rare white strelitzia nicolai – or birds of paradise – drip over two-kilogram soursops, Filipino mabolo, and pungent custard apples from Brazil. Massive jackfruits dwarf my upper body as they hang pregnant from the trees. A jackfruit from Borneo – called the Red Gold because of its flesh-coloured insides – tastes like banana and pineapple mixed. One is split open like road-kill, and its smell wafts around the low tree, so sweet it’s almost sickly.
Previous page: Bill Tschan. Opposite page top: White Tern (kakaia) in a yellow flamboyant tree. Opposite page bottom: Tecomante Dendrophyllum.
Bill is a generous garden guide. “Here, you put this in your bag,” he says, popping in some Argentinean peanut butter fruit. “Eat it when dark red and mushy. Cook them into a sauce. They will taste like peanut butter with a little bit of honey inside.” “Have another one, please,” he says a few steps later, pushing white sapote (pronounced sapotay) from South America on a willing recipient. It tastes like peach and pear. Its brother, the black sapote, looks and tastes like chocolate. “If you have vanilla ice cream and mix this fruit into it you would swear its chocolate ice cream,” says Bill. The tart bite of Indonesia’s red-flowering bilimbi, cousin of the sweet yellow starfruit, wafted childhood memories of stealing unripe raspberries from granny’s garden in Scotland. Sapodilla was savoured – it is grainy like a pear and taste like caramel. In Mexico they tap the tree for sap and export it to the States as Chico, the basic ingredient for chewing gum.
Birds dart between the longan trees and insects hum amongst the 70 gardenia and tiare Maori flowers his wife Teetu plucks each day for ei’s. The vibrancy of the small space belies the hard graft put into it.
“Now these are a weed. They are a pest,” Bill points to a guava tree laden with yellow fruit. “You get convicted if you bring them into Florida or Hawaii. The chicken eats them and spreads the seeds. So I just cut them with the lawnmower – but I have kept two of the trees. Take one. It will be ripe tomorrow or the next day. Take it, you will enjoy it. You eat it just like an apple. Don’t peel it because the vitamins are just below the skin.” One of the few fruit not sampled was the akee-fruit. The national fruit and dish of
Jamaica is poisonous unless cooked. Birds dart between the longan trees and insects hum amongst the 70 gardenia and tiare Maori flowers his wife Teetu plucks each day for ei’s. The vibrancy of the small space belies the hard graft put into it. In 2010, Tropical Cyclone Pat ripped through Aitutaki and wiped out most of Bill’s trees. He had to start from scratch. “Oh, it was a mess. There is 12,000 square metres and I couldn’t find one place to have some shade. It was terrible, of course. But if you sit down and cry, nothing happens. So the very next day I came down. I started to clear up. I got the broken stuff and burnt it.”
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Bill is an advert for wholesome living off the land and enjoys giving tours as much as visitors like getting them.
experiment.” Bill lopes off to find a lime, leaving me to sit slightly exhausted under the shade of a mandarin tree.
“Now I need your help,” he said as we neared a tallish shrub – a miracle berry bush. “Can you find a red berry that looks a bit like a coffee bean? Because I am going to be making an experiment.” He’s getting as enthusiastic as Roald Dahl’s BFG and his snoscumbers.
Presently he returns and tells me to chew the berry carefully for a minute and then the lime and then… Hey - don’t let me spoil the experiment for you. Why not get yourself lost – with the most knowledgeable guide of course – in the Secret Garden of Aitutaki.
“Oh yes, there one is. But don’t be eating it now because we’ll be making an
Jakfruit
fact file:
The result is an explosion of colour. Rare white strelitzia nicolai – or birds of paradise – drip over two-kilogram soursops, Filipino mabolo, and pungent custard apples from Brazil. Massive jackfruits dwarf my upper body as they hang pregnant from the trees.
Red Heliconia
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Cassia cv bakeriana - dwarf
Guided tours are conducted Monday to Saturday between 8am and 4pm and last approx 2 hours. Pick-ups are available. Mosquito repellent and a sun hat are recommended.
Tel. Bill Tschan from 8am to 4pm on 75085
Tupuna’s Tupuna’s Restaurant Restaurant aitutaki
For quite possibly the best a-la-carte dining on Aitutaki visit Tupuna’s Restaurant. Here, in a truly relaxed island setting, we promise you an evening to remember and cuisine you’ll want to tell your friends about. Relax with sand in your toes while we serve you the freshest island produce of the day. We are fully licensed and open Monday to Saturday from 6pm. Visa, Amex & Mastercard accepted.
Reservations Recommended
Phone: 31678
Email: tupunasrestaurant@aitutaki.net.ck
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Beachfront or Garden Bungalows with kitchens, refrigerator, tea/coffee making, en-suite bathrooms, daily servicing and some with private balconies. Plus the largest fleet of rental vehicles on the island, at competitive rates. Airport pick-up service. Rino’s will add a personal touch to your vacation! SNORKELLING | KITE SURFING WAKE BOARDING | TUBE RIDING DEEP SEA FISHING | SPEAR FISHING BONE FISHING | WHALE WATCHING WATER TAXI | WATER SKIING If it’s on the water and in a boat we’ll provide all the gear to make it happen.
P: (682) 31 197 | M: (682) 55 839 | Email: rinos@aitutaki.net.ck | rinosaitutakihotels.com
Neil Mitchell’s
Aitutaki Scuba Scuba & Snorkel Tours
28 years of diving Aitutaki guarantees you the best dives P: 31651 or 31657 M: 56558 or 75980 E: wetnwild@oyster.net.ck www.wetnwild-aitutaki.com
• PADI Instructor #452677 • NAUI Instructor #8812
Ph: (682) 31703 or 31103 Mob: (682) 56103 Email: scuba@aitutaki.net.ck ESCAPE • 77
A Islands Adventure Story: Noel Bartley
O
ur hostess Francis is serving refreshments as we sit comfortably cradled in leather seats on board Air Rarotonga’s Saab 340. I hear several different languages and accents from our full flight of passengers; it sounds a bit like a mini United Nations delegation. We are heading to a remote island in the middle of the South Pacific Ocean - it’s a beautiful clear day, with just a few fluffy whites floating over an indigo blue ocean. Some of us will travel further and take in two islands over a period of five days, on what Air Rarotonga describe as their Two Island Adventure. As we near the conclusion of our 50 minute flight, hushed voices suddenly become more excited as passengers catch their first glimpse of Aitutaki’s stunning turquoise lagoon, languid in the morning sunlight. The lagoon, dotted with its small motu’s, smiles back at them, just as it did in the photos that enticed them here, and all expectations are fulfilled.
78 • ESCAPE
with Air Rarotonga
We are greeted at the airport and adorned with floral ei’s (garlands) and then transferred to our accommodation at Tamunu Beach Resort on the sunset side of the main island. Our garden room is inviting and comfortable. Tamanu Beach is in a good location on the island and we soon discover all its amenities, including a swimming pool and the restaurant which is located near the beach, offering a-la-carte dining each evening, except Sunday which is reserved for a sumptuous barbeque buffet. Shortly after lunch we are off on a tour of the island with Aitutaki Safari Tours, to get our bearings and familiarise ourselves with the island. Owner Ngaakitai Pureariki is our guide and we are quickly absorbing all the fascinating details and history of Aitutaki. A spectacular view from an elevated position on Maungapu, just 124 metres high, enables us to see most of the amazing lagoon and its fringing motu’s. The highlight for me however is a visit to the ancient marae of Paengariki. This
sacred place, looking a bit like a mini Stonehenge in a bush-clad valley, is the first site to be systematically excavated in the Cook Islands and our guide, a trainee archaeologist, is the driving force behind this remarkable venture. The next morning we are off on a lagoon cruise aboard the vaka Titi-ai-Tonga. The colours in the lagoon are simply amazing. We stop to visit Akaiami, the old Coral Route flying boat base, before heading off to our snorkelling spot. The boat cleverly anchors in water that you can stand up in, but close enough to deeper waters with coral heads, myriads of colourful fish and clams. It’s stunningly beautiful. We are hungry after our snorkelling, but right on cue the crew are serving a lunch of barbequed fresh fish and refreshing
We are back at Tamanu Beach Resort in time for a snooze before dinner and the Thursday evening ‘Island Night Show’ which features a spectacular fire-dance sequence. The next morning is day three and we are free to explore Aitutaki’s main island before taking off to Atiu at 1pm. It’s a 50 minute flight during which we fly over the uninhabited islands of Manuae and Takutea. Our host, Roger Malcolm, is at Atiu’s tiny airport to greet us with floral ei’s. On the way to our accommodation at Roger’s Atiu Villas he gives us an insight into the island’s complex geological make-up. In short, Atiu is a volcanic island that was thrust up out of the ocean, thus revealing its lagoon and reef, which now form the lower rings of the island. The old reef, now overgrown with lush tropical forest is known as makatea, which is sharp and jagged, and difficult to walk on, but full of fascinating caves. After checking-in we are immediately on our way to explore the island’s bird life with ‘Birdman George’. George is a likeable character who has been overseeing the eradication of Myna birds as part of Atiu’s land-bird conservation programme, allowing the more endangered species to flourish. Atiu is known as ‘the island of birds’ and we are fortunate to see the now somewhat less endangered Kura (Rimatara Lorikeet) and Kakerori (Rarotonga Flycatcher). There is much to see and do on Atiu and its difficult deciding how we will fill the next day. In the morning we grab a couple of motor scooters to visit the Atiu Fibre Arts Studio and have a cup of famous Atiu coffee, before heading off to try our hand at some reef fishing. We only manage to
catch a few small tiddlers, but it’s a fun couple of hours. In the afternoon we are taken by Marshall Humphries to the spectacular Anatakitaki Cave, which is home to the rare Kopeka bird, a swiftlet unique to Atiu. The magnificence of the cave is breathtaking, with huge stalactites reaching to the cavern floor and massive stalagmites sparkling as though embedded with millions of diamonds. After the cave we visit a traditional island ‘Tumunu’. A lot of fun! Local men were sitting in a circle drinking the local ‘bushbeer’ while one played the ukulele. We were made most welcome.
AITUTAKI
ATIU
RAROTONGA On our last day Marshall takes us on an island tour, driving through shady roads and forest thick with ancient trees, to coastal beaches and coves, one of which we stop at for a picnic and Marshall’s famous muffins. And then it’s time to board our aircraft back to Rarotonga. Reflecting on our adventure during the flight, I am truly amazed at the diversity of activities we have experienced and landscapes we have visited, not forgetting the wonderful people we have met during the past few days. This has truly been an unforgettable journey.
Air Rarotonga’s
Two Island Discovery
We’ll fly you from Rarotonga to Aitutaki Aitutaki is frequently referred to as one of the world’s favourite islands. It encircles a spectacular turquoise lagoon where opportunities for swimming and snorkelling abound, or you may choose to simply wander the white sand beaches.
… then on to extraordinary Atiu …
fact file: Read more about Aitutaki on page 66 and make sure you read our Atiu feature story on page 44. The cost of a Two Islands Adventure includes airfares, two nights at Tamanu Beach Resort Aitutaki, two nights at Atiu Villas and all transfers. Local tours are optional and extra. Flights depart Rarotonga Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. All go via Aitutaki first, except Wednesday which offers either island first.
Atiu is also known as Enuamanu, “island of the birds”. Amongst the magnificent rain forest bird life is prolific. You may even see the recently re-introduced Kura, or Rimatara Lorikeet. Delicious local fruit is always available along with a great brew of Atiu grown coffee.
and back to Rarotonga
Book through Air Rarotonga tel: (682) 22888 | www.airaro.com LM/SD 2022178B
tropical salads on-board our floating haven. Then it’s off to famous One Foot Island to laze in the sun on pristine beaches and have our passports stamped at the world’s smallest post office.
If you’re looking for the perfect Cook Island experience, then this is the trip for you.
www.airraro.com
ESCAPE • 79
Akono te Mango
Protect our sharks Story: Jess Cramp Photos: Graham McDonald, Jess Cramp, Matariki Wilson, Max Bello, Tina Weier and PICI.
The Cook Islands declares their entire exclusive economic zone a sanctuary for all sharks, rays and skates, becoming the cornerstone in the largest contiguous shark sanctuary in the world.
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I
t began as a typical, summer day on the tranquil, southern side of Rarotonga. The mynah birds danced about, scratching each step into the tin roof above my porch while a happy couple waltzed lazily by, no doubt reveling at the myriad shades of blue reflecting off of the lagoon and enjoying the slow pace of life in the islands—a pace that today and many days before, I was unable to enjoy on account of my passion. The unrelenting, syncopated taps of my fingers on the kitchen table echoed in anticipation as I waited for an answer. “Is this really going to happen?” I thought. We had spent eighteen months advocating for a shark sanctuary, and with the fleeting prospect of failure feeling as real as the hope of a declaration, which had been delayed many times over— the telephone rang. It was the 12th of December 2012. The Cook Islands were about to make international headlines, and I’d now have to move at warp speed not to miss it.
Earlier that year “Your campaign is sunk,” read an email addressed to Stephen Lyon, founder and director of Pacific Islands Conservation Initiative (PICI) and to me, PICI’s Programme Manager at the time. It was June of 2012, about midway through our campaign, as we advocated for a total ban on commercial fishing of sharks in Cook Islands waters. And it was an unlikely response from one of our biggest cheerleaders, an expert in international shark protection, who learned that a powerful Chinese company with a long history of shark finning, was purchasing several long-line licenses to fish in the Cooks. He also learned that a worldrenowned shark scientist was coming to support the Ministry of Marine Resources
... until a talkative American came along (that’s me), excitedly transplanting herself into the heart of a small, Polynesian community. Our success seemed as unlikely as our perceived ability to convince others that the supposed “man-eaters” needed protection. in a bid for commercial retention of some sharks, and repeated, “I’m sorry guys, but you’re sunk.” In reading the email simultaneously, Steve and I looked at each other and laughed out loud. We were focused, patient, and maybe a little crazy, but coupled with a growing amount of local support, it would take a lot more than fear to derail us. After all, nothing about our campaign was likely; from the idea for the shark sanctuary coming from Steve, a diver with an irrational, paralyzing fear of sharks - to the notion that he waited years to begin campaigning at all; until a talkative American came along (that’s me), excitedly transplanting herself into the heart of a small, Polynesian community. Our success seemed as unlikely as our perceived ability to convince others that the supposed “man-eaters” needed protection.
The case for the sharks Sharks are apex predators, maintaining balance in the oceans. Because of their reproductive characteristics (late maturation, long gestation, few pups) they are vulnerable to overfishing and slow to recover from population decline. While there is little data on what an ocean without sharks would look like, some believe their disappearance could have downstream effects on the health of coral reefs, which are vital to sustaining human life, especially life in the remote, Pacific islands. It’s no secret that the Chinese appetite for shark fin soup has contributed to a significant decline in shark populations worldwide. Studies by Dr. Shelley Clarke and her team showed that as of 2006, as many as 73 million sharks were killed each year for their fins, with more recent
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This page top to bottom: NZ Prime Minister John Key with the PICI team. The Minister of Marine Resources Hon Teina Bishop. Shark-fin salute from Hillary Clinton and Jess Cramp. Schoolchildren give the shark-fin salute. Opposite page: Gathering signatures for the petition.
In advocating for the creation of a Cook Islands shark sanctuary, it was important to us that proposed regulations weren’t impeding on the rights or traditions of locals. It was the commercial fishing of sharks that were decimating populations, not the occasional artisanal catch, which was ... shared as a food source amongst the community. estimates of well over 100 million shark deaths per year. To put the number into perspective, it’s akin to the entire human population of Australia being completely wiped out, 5 times every year. Subsequently, due to a recent influx of long-line fishing vessels into the Cook Islands, on which sharks were caught as incidental by-catch, but also targeted for their fins, it was imperative to PICI and others that specific regulations were enacted to eliminate any loopholes in catching and finning sharks. Science suggests that sharks need some level of protection from overfishing, and because the value of sharks alive has been shown in some countries to far exceed the market value of their parts in a bowl of soup, nations are banning shark fishing altogether. For example in Palau, which was declared a shark sanctuary in 2009, a single shark alive was worth an estimated US$1.9 million over its lifetime, where dead it was worth 1,000 times less, according to a 2011 study by the Australian Institute of Marine Science.
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Shark sanctuary momentum turned media heads both locally and afar While not all nations rely on protected sharks as an economic stimulus of tourism, sharks are argued to have an economically valuable place in the ecosystem, and as well, an unquantifiable value in culture, where in the Cook Islands they are revered as guardians. In advocating for the creation of a Cook Islands shark sanctuary, it was important to us that proposed regulations weren’t impeding on the rights or traditions of locals. It was the commercial fishing of sharks that were decimating populations, not the occasional artisanal catch, which was generally brought ashore and shared as a food source amongst the community.
Since sharks are revered as guardians, they are neither a traditional fishery, nor a main source of food (except for the rare artisanal catch). Coupled with the foreign demand for shark fins, liver oil and meat, and decreasing populations of iconic species present in the Cook Islands, such as the hammerhead and oceanic white tip - it seemed the establishment of a shark sanctuary could be a quick win - ensuring the Cook Islands joined the ranks of a handful of other nations where shark sanctuaries existed outside of Polynesia, including Honduras, the Bahamas, the Maldives and the Marshall Islands. If the Cook Islands established a shark sanctuary, their nearly 2 million square kilometre exclusive economic zone, an area the size of Mexico, would become the cornerstone in the largest contiguous shark protection zone on the planet, connecting the existing Polynesian sanctuaries of French Polynesia, Tokelau and American Samoa. While French Polynesia created their shark protection zone by adding the previously excluded Mako shark to their ten-year moratorium on shark fishing, the Cook Islands had no such precedent in place for sharks. It was going to take significant work to convince the Ministry of Marine Resources that these steps were necessary, grounded in scientific evidence, economically feasible and more importantly, locally driven.
‘Akono te Mango: Protect our Sharks’ campaign begins At times it felt like we were shouting “Save the Boogie Man!” Because let’s face it, sharks are not as cuddly as manta rays, whales or dolphins and sharks have, on extremely rare occasion, mistaken a human being for food. (Keep in mind however, that sharks kill fewer humans than falling coconuts each year.) Thankfully, understanding the political, economic, scientific and cultural impacts of shark protection in their country, quite a few prominent members of the community joined our campaign, giving us further
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Cook Islands only Semi-SubTours Daily at
9am, 11am, 2pm, 4pm
avatiu Harbour
Ph 55901 or 28238 Cook Islands
Whale & Wildlife Centre coolest One of thoe visit on places t onga Rarot
More than just a museum, it’s interactive and has live creatures and big screen documentaries. over 50 exhibits include whales, whaling history, sharks, turtles, diving history, fishing, shells, corals and lots more. There’s something for everyone plus a café, souvenir shop and Wi-Fi hotspot. situated on the back road behind town, just 900 metres from avatiu Harbour and opposite Mike Tavioni’s carving.
Entry fee helps fund whale research Ph: (682) 21 666 or 55 901 wildlifecentre@whaleresearch.org www.whaleresearch.org 84 • ESCAPE
The binder full of letters from local groups, the pile full of notes and posters drawn by students, the area under the ‘Akono te Mango: Protect our Sharks’ banner which was filled with pleas to the government, the stack of signature-filled pages under the petition, the photographs from around the country showing their ‘shark fins’,
Previous page: School children’s ‘Save our Shark’ art work. This Page: The Hon Teina Bishop, Minister of Marine Resources.
community support. However after countless meetings, the Ministry of Marine Resources wouldn’t ban commercial fishing of all species of shark.
On 12.12.12, I made it just in time to watch the Cook Islands make history and as we’d later learn, news headlines around the globe. reach and the ability to explain shark protections in Cook Islands Maori. As a tribe of shark ambassadors we were Tua Pittman, Danny Mataroa, Kate Ngatokorua, Alex Olah, Travel Tou Ariki, Teuira Napa, Marion Marsters, and Matiu John. Also we were a larger family of voyagers, growers, lawyers, photographers, cooks, writers, divers, environmentalists, chiefs, students, mamas, papas, children, and friends. Together we managed to gain the support of local fishermen, who were terrorized by sharks on occasion in their traditional canoes, and even commercial long-line operators, who would be directly affected by the regulations. Together we were pushing forward, yet progress took time. We were met with zero opposition at the community level and received support from every outer island we visited, including some we weren’t able to get to, but contacted with details about the campaign. We had the personal support of Cabinet Ministers and the continued promise that Prime Minister Henry Puna didn’t have a problem with shark protection; in fact, he had hoped it would support the Cooks’ commitment to a Marine Park later in the year.
And then there was one
Shark sanctuary momentum turned media heads both locally and afar, attracting the support of Pew Environment Group, and a US-based attorney Michael Balster, who offered to work pro-bono to draft the
In the end, after more than a year and a half of advocating for a shark sanctuary with a team of ambassadors, the decision rested on the shoulders of one man, to whom we presented an arsenal of support. The Minister of Marine Resources, the Honourable Teina Bishop, looked at all of the evidence in front of him. The binder full of letters from local groups, the pile full of notes and posters drawn by students, the area under the ‘Akono te Mango: Protect our Sharks’ banner which was filled with pleas to the government, the stack of signature-filled pages under the petition, the photographs from around the country showing their ‘shark fins’, the newspaper articles, the letters to the editor, plus the regulations assessments, and the facts; economic, scientific and cultural. And he
... well over 100 million shark deaths per year. To put the number into perspective, it’s akin to the entire human population of Australia being completely wiped out, 5 times every year ...
shark sanctuary regulations, furthering our cause. And during the 2012 Pacific Leader’s Forum in Rarotonga, we received more regional and political support than we ever dreamed of. These proposed regulations protected the rights of the artisanal fishers, had no economic impact on the country, eased fisheries enforcement, and had resounding
chose to act in favour of the voice of his people, with unanimous support of his submission to Cabinet by Cabinet Ministers and the Prime Minister Henry Puna.
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A definitive date On 12.12.12, I made it just in time to watch the Cook Islands make history and as we’d later learn, news headlines around the globe. Minister Bishop announced with pride in Parliament, which was also broadcast live by radio, that the Cook Islands were declaring their entire exclusive economic zone a sanctuary for all sharks, rays and skates. Thus becoming the cornerstone in the largest contiguous shark sanctuary in the world and setting an incredible example for nations to follow. I was thrilled, but relieved, because after such a long and tumultuous journey, it was real.
When asked what inspired him to keep pushing for the shark sanctuary when it seemed like it would never pass, Stephen Lyon said, “I always knew it was possible, but the factor that kept me moving forward was the team working on it. It is easy to forgive yourself for not achieving a goal, but much harder to ask forgiveness of those that are working with you.” Minister Bishop gave a heartfelt speech, and as the names of each supporter fell on my ears, I smiled. I couldn’t help but think of Margaret Mead who said “Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world, indeed it’s the only thing that ever has.”
Pearl & Art Gallery
C O O K
I S L A N D S
B L A C K
P E A R L S
Simple Elegance & Timeless Beauty Local Art by: Judith KunzLe - Limited edition Prints • GLenn MiLLer - Contemporary Pacific • ALLAn tuArA - traditional Carving 86 • ESCAPE
Located UPTOWN Avarua, Taputapuatea • ph (682) 22312 • www.moanagems.co.ck
Accredited Cook Islands Retailers:
Moana Gems The Pearl Lounge Paka’s Pearls
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Growing a business on Mauke Story: Rachel Reeves Photos: Noel Bartley
M
unfortunately, is teetering on the brink of collapse.
Once upon a time, maire was a lucrative business in Mauke, affording the women who picked it and plaited it into ei (garlands) up to $200 per day. But today a convergence of factors – a dwindling local population, a proliferation of wild pigs and black sooty mould – has resulted in sagging exports. The industry
Hawai’i based importers still prefer the fragrance of Cook Islands maire to that produced locally or in Tonga, but these days are noticing a disappointing trend: the Cook Islands supply is not only shrinking but consistently failing to meet their standards of quality and freshness. Maire grows in the makatea of Mauke, Mitiaro and Mangaia – a harsh coral hinterland, crowded with thick creepers, trees and weeds. Home to wild pigs and thorny bramble, the makatea is a difficult place to do business, and the Mauke mamas who were once agile,
auke’s primary export grows wild, amongst jagged coral plains. A vine, bearing leaves the size of your index finger, maire (Alyxia oliviformis) is in high demand in Hawai’i, where it enjoys a deep historical and cultural significance, and for years Mauke was one of three islands in the Cook group that supplied its crop.
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adept pickers, are aging. The emigration of younger people to New Zealand and Australia has left few to do the job. “People don’t realize the struggle inside the makatea,” Maukean horticulturist Take Metuariki says. “It’s hard work, and there aren’t enough people to do it.” Take and his brother Tara are passionate about resuscitating the industry. So passionate, in fact, they have moved home from New Zealand to nurse an injured industry back to health. Last year, Tara had two dreams about maire and in the same week read a Cook
Islands News story about drastically reduced exports of the vine from Mauke. He knew then that he had to do something. Following an unsuccessful year spent writing letters and arranging fruitless meetings with government officials, he managed to source $9,000 from New Zealand High Commissioner John Carter to build a maire nursery on his home island. Now, the brothers are in the process of setting it up and experimenting with seedlings, which they hope to transplant into individual family-owned plots for farming and harvesting. Take is a Wellington-trained horticulturalist and chef, and he’s using seedlings collected from inside the makatea. He’s learned through a process of trial and error that cuttings won’t take, so has resorted to using soil from inside the bush to germinate seedlings in his nursery. He started with 2,000, but half got sick, so presently he is carefully tending 1,000. The Metuariki brothers believe that people are more likely to pick and plait maire if it grows outside the makatea. “These problems with (the industry) just occurred in the last 10 years,” Take says. “Before that, we produced beautiful maire. If we can bring it out of the makatea, we can control it. That’s the only way to manage it.”
Maire grows in the makatea of Mauke, Mitiaro and Mangaia – a harsh coral hinterland, crowded with thick creepers, trees and weeds. In the late 1980s, the Cook Islands Ministry of Agriculture tried its hand at farming maire, but failed to fence it and monitor it. The upshot was that wild animals dug it up and people picked it too early, stunting its chances for re-growth. The Metuariki brothers are conscious that the last experiment failed, and are taking care to examine and tend their crop daily. “It’s the hard way of doing it, but this whole project is a labour of love,” he says. “It’s an island project and it benefits the island. It’s our only export. It’s a challenge, but there’s
money and opportunity here on the island, and this is a good example” he says, pointing to his seedlings, an expression of tenderness on his face.
One of the first locals you’re likely to meet is Tevai Napa. Tevai is part of the Air Rarotonga family and like most of the crew is a Cook Islander who has grown up in these islands and developed her skills with our airline. If you want a true Cook Islands experience talk to Tevai. She’ll tell you about mountain hiking – where you’ll discover lush flora and fauna and beautiful indigenous birds. Ask her where you can buy black pearls from the Manihiki and Tongareva lagoons, traditional decorative quilts with their bold colours and designs. She’ll tell you about finely flavoured foods steamed in banana leaves, some of the best coffee you’ll ever taste, and traditional cultural performances – even where you can enjoy a few rounds of golf. There’s nothing like talking to a local to find out how to get the best out of your Cook Islands’ experience.
e come l e “W to th ” k CooIslands
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ESCAPE • 89
Our South Pacific home
a
sprinkling of island gems on an indigo blue ocean... The Cook Islands combined make up a land area of just 240 square kilometers. They are scattered far and wide in the vast expanse of the South Pacific Ocean, covering a total area of 2.25 million square kilometers. Each of these ‘gems’ is unlike any other; all having their own special characteristics and every one offering a warm welcome to visitors.
90 • ESCAPE
The Southern Group Atiu See our feature story on page 44. Takutea Just a few miles off the coast of Atiu lies the uninhabited island of Takutea. Numerous seabirds thrive on this pristine island that has been declared a bird sanctuary by the Atiu Island Council. Only they can give permission for visitors to land there.
left: Manuae below: CICC Church, Mitiaro
Mauke The garden island of the Cook group, Mauke is 18 kilometres around. It is surrounded by makatea (fossilised coral) with a volcanic plateau in the centre. Parts of the foreshore are dotted with isolated white sandy coves and caves that one can swim in. Inland there are fresh water caves and the famous Motuanga Cave that has galleries reaching beneath the reef. The reef is so close to the foreshore that crashing white breakers are visible from most of the unsealed coral road that runs around the island. Do visit the “divided church” built where the villages of Ngatiarua and Areora meet. Shared by the two villages, it has two separate entrances and sitting areas. There are clean and comfortable places to stay in Mauke - try Ri’s Retreat or Tiare Holiday Cottages. They can also organise cave, reef and forest tours. Be sure to obtain a garland of the fragrant maire, a creeper that grows along the makatea. Mauke is picturesque, unhurried and tranquil – a wonderful tonic for frayed nerves! See our Mauke story on page 50. Mitiaro Of the cluster of islands in the southern group called Nga Pu Toru, Mitiaro would be the least visited by tourists. Not because it is any less beautiful than sister islands Atiu and Mauke, but simply that it is the least known. In the centre of Mitiaro are two lakes full of itiki, freshwater eels. Mitiaro itiki are considered a delicacy in the Cook Islands. Tilapia (bream) are also abundant in the lakes. The lakes are from time to time protected by a traditional raui, a prohibition on all fishing to preserve stocks. At its widest point, the island is 6.4 km across and private gardens in the village are beautifully kept and neat. Community activities include fishing, sports, handicrafts and uapou, or village singsongs. Pretty and unspoiled, life on Mitiaro is refreshingly uncomplicated.
Mangaia Imagine visiting a fairly large island where you and maybe a handful of others are the only tourists? Mangaia is an island of incredible, serene beauty – from its rugged coastline to the lush, green interior. It is peaceful beyond belief for those accustomed to the constant rush and haste of the outside world. This is a place where one can trek for miles along the coast or in the interior and not meet another soul or hear a vehicle. Nor see any dwellings, just lots of well-tended plantations of pineapples, vegetables, taro, kumara and other crops. Deep-sea fishing excursions are available – just ask your host Jan Kristensson of Ara Moana Bungalows or Ura, who manages Babe’s Motel. They can also steer you in the right direction for guided tours that include caving, reef/lagoon walks and bush walks. Check out the market on Friday mornings in the ‘town’ centre and the craftwork by the skilled Mangaian women. The shell necklaces and woven
pandanus bags are labour intensive and sold for very reasonable prices. Mangaia is the destination for those who love the outdoors, appreciate peace and quiet and want to experience a friendly island that’s not in the least “touristy.” Palmerston Made famous by Englishman William Marsters, who settled there in 1863 with three wives. He later married and raised a large family. Marsters’ modern day descendents are scattered all over the world. About 60 still remain in Palmerston, which has six motu or islets in a big blue lagoon about 11 km across. The family exports fish, supplying in particular, parrot fish to Rarotonga restaurants. Palmerston hosts the occasional cruise ship and yachts frequently call in. The island also boasts one of the world’s most isolated bars, where thirsty yachties can enjoy a “cold one” and hear tales being regaled by the islanders. It is 500 km NW of Rarotonga.
right: Suwarrow opposite page: Penrhyn
Manuae Manuae is an uninhabited nature reserve and an important seabird and turtle breeding ground. Its two islets in a large shallow lagoon make-up this incredibly beautiful island, situated about 100 km SE of Aitutaki. Many Aitutakians can claim traditional land rights to parts of Manuae. Once inhabited by work gangs of Cook Islands men who produced copra, it is now only occasionally visited by Aitutaki fisherman for its rich fishing grounds outside and within the lagoon. It is possible to view Manuae from the air, on a flight from Atiu to Aitutaki.
The Northern Group Suwarrow Suwarrow is one of the few "untouched" sanctuaries left in the world where existing endangered species can survive. The Suwarrow National Park is the first National Park in the Cook Islands - international environmental groups recognise the group of tiny atolls as an untouched haven and breeding area for turtles, sea birds and crabs. Because of the lack of human intervention, Suwarrow is acknowledged as one of the most important sea bird breeding areas in the Pacific. A caretaker and his family live on Suwarrow during the cyclone off-season, between April and November each year. Yachts often visit the island during these months. Suwarrow was made famous by New Zealand hermit Tom Neale, who lived there during the early 1950’s and again in the early 1960’s. He wrote about his experiences in his book “An Island to Oneself.” Pukapuka Lying northwest 1150 km from Rarotonga, Pukapuka is one of the most isolated islands of the Cook group. One interisland flight from Rarotonga about
92 • ESCAPE
Suwarrow is one of the few "untouched" sanctuaries left in the world where existing endangered species can survive. The Suwarrow National Park is the first National Park in the Cook Islands - international environmental groups recognise the group of tiny atolls as an untouched haven and breeding area for turtles, sea birds and crabs. every six weeks and irregular shipping has kept Pukapuka one of the most untouched and secluded places in the Pacific. Its remoteness has also kept the traditions and culture of Pukapuka largely unchanged for centuries. Islanders speak the distinct Pukapukan language as well as Cook Islands Maori. According to legend, almost 500 years ago the Pukapuka population was almost entirely wiped out during a catastrophic storm that struck the island. Fourteen people survived, from whom Pukapukan’s today are said to descend. The late American writer Robert Dean Frisbie settled there in 1924 and immortalised Pukapuka in the books he wrote about life on the island. The now uninhabited area where he lived with his Pukapuka wife and children is one of the most beautiful – an untouched white sandy beach with palm trees reaching out to tease the clear blue lagoon.
Nassau Access to this tiny island of about 80 Pukapukans can only be gained by interisland boat. Regarded as the sister island of Pukapuka, a voyage from Rarotonga takes about three days. The islanders are adept at surviving an isolated lifestyle that remains unchanged year after year. Nassau was hooked up to the country’s telephone system only in 2001 and many of the people had never used a telephone before. Just 1.2 sq. km in size, where families live in kikau thatched cottages.
Manihiki The cultured black pearl capital of the Cook Islands. Quality black pearls become centrepieces for fine jewellery that are worn by women and men all over the world. In 1997, the island survived one of the worst cyclones in Cook Islands history. It claimed 20 lives after a tidal wave swept
Rakahanga Sister island of Manihiki and 42km north-west. Visits to Rakahanga are only possible by boat from Manihiki or interisland vessel. There are two main islands and seven islets in the Rakahanga lagoon. The island is picturesque and unspoiled.
men, women and children out into the huge, raging lagoon. Pearl farms dot this remarkable lagoon. Villagers use small outboard boats to travel between Tukao and Tauhunu – two villages on separate islets – or to their pearl farms set up on coral outcrops. Some of the pearl farms are sophisticated operations jutting out of the deep blue lagoon, complete with small gardens and poultry farms that help support workers who live in modern quarters. Manihiki women have made
history for entering what was once a male dominated vocation. A number of women own and manage their own pearl farms, diving, seeding and cleaning the oyster shells all year around. The women are also renowned for their finely woven craftwork. Manihiki is astonishingly beautiful and those who have been fortunate enough to visit the island, have never been disappointed
Penrhyn Penrhyn (or Tongareva) is the most remote of the Cook group, lying 1365 km NNE of Rarotonga. It has a remarkable blue water lagoon measuring 233 sq km. A 77-km coral reef encircles the islets in the extraordinary lagoon. The villages of Tetautua and Omoka are on different islets that are barely visible to each other. Penrhyn island women make the finest rito craftwork in the Cook Islands. Hats, bags, fans and mats made in Penrhyn are amongst the best to be found anywhere in the world.
Ever wanted to run away? To get lost on a deserted island? To hide out with a group of friends and stay as long as you want? Why not charter your own plane and explore the magnificent outer islands of the Cooks.*
Plaonur y
LM/SD 2022123
own
Call our Travel Centre on 22-888 and we’ll help you escape!
Optional extras include:
Inflight catering Experienced tour guide Ground tours & sightseeing Overnight adventure accommodation in the far north to luxury resorts on breath-taking Aitutaki
* We also offer charters
Island E scape
to Niue and Tahiti
www.airraro.com ESCAPE • 93
on the hook
m
ahi mahi are the most visually stunning fish in the ocean. This is a very bold statement, but once you see first hand the colours of a swimming or a freshly landed mahi mahi you will be left with no doubt. They truly are beautiful fish with an array of glistening colours that are stunning as they shimmer and change in an instant through a spectrum of green, blue, yellow, gold and silver, or a combination of these. The colours are so bright that they almost seem reflective as they capture the suns light. In the Cooks Islands these fish are called mai mai, or also simply mahi. Elsewhere they are called masi masi, dorado, or even the confusingly named dolphin fish. These are all the same fish, or if you want to get technical call it “Coryphaena hippurus”. I think we will just stick with mahi mahi! Males and females are easily distinguishable by the shape of their heads. Throughout the tropical Pacific Islands, mahi mahi are highly sought after by locals, sport fishers and commercial fishers alike for their beauty, their fighting ability (they pull hard and are extremely acrobatic) and their excellent eating qualities. They are superb cooked or served as sashimi. Mahi mahi are regularly captured on rod and reel using a variety of methods including drifting live baits and trolling lures and dead baits. Trolling rigged dead flying fish, either as swimming bait or as
94 • ESCAPE
Mahi mahi Story: Alan Syme
a skip bait is very popular; a swimming bait has a lead weight attached to its head that causes the fish to swim under the surface, a skip bait as the name suggests skips along the surface with no weight on it. These baits are highly effective as they are real fish and will often out catch lures. If you are interested, ask your charter skipper or deck hand to show you these baits. Live baiting is very popular on the island of Aitutaki.
Mahi mahi are fast growers and eating machines. If the wind is blowing during your stay in the Cook Islands, use it to your advantage, as days with a moderate to strong wind chop and white caps help to bring on mahi mahi feeding, because one of their favourite foods, the previously mentioned flying fish, is hindered in its usual escape method. This therefore increases your chances of finding yourself fighting a mahi mahi, but be sure to
They truly are beautiful fish with an array of glistening colours that are stunning as they shimmer and change in an instant through a spectrum of green, blue, yellow, gold and silver... When targeting mahi mahi your skipper will often head to a FAD, or off-shore to scan the horizon for any bird activity; key indicators are frigate or kota birds among others. These birds often signal the presence of a mahi mahi school, pair or even an individual. Very good hunters can determine the size of the school based on the bird’s presence and behaviour as they fly above looking for the scraps. Often a feeding mahi mahi has one or two birds directly above it that mirror its movements.
have a camera ready to catch its brilliant gymnastics display followed by its mesmerising colour show. The Cook Islands are an ideal place to target mahi mahi as many local fishermen are very experienced mahi mahi catchers. Cook Island mahi mahi grow to a large size for the species compared to other countries, and they are found year round in our warm tropical waters, also they are accessible soon after leaving the harbour. So get out there are get amongst it!
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Escape Cook Islands
2014 Calendar alendar C s d n a l Cook Is 2014
The Escape Magazine 2014 Calendar features the very best of Cook Islands images captured by our photographers during the past year. Each calendar is individually shrinkwrapped and has a stiffening board plus envelope for ease of mailing. From most stores and souvenir outlets on Rarotonga and Aitutaki. $14.95
great places to stay
r
Aitutaki Escape
elax by the pool with a tropical cocktail, soak up the sun, rejuvenate your soul, and luxuriate in the warmth of a romantic evening under the stars, with exotic foods and fine wine. Whatever your Cook Islands holiday dream consists of, you can be sure there is a style of accommodation to suit your taste and attentive staff to make all those dreams come true. From deluxe beach resorts to simple budget facilities, you can choose your own standard or quality and plan according to your budget. Here on these pages, we bring you some of the nicest places to stay on Rarotonga.
happy holidays!
Look for this symbol‌ The Cook Islands Tourism Accreditation Scheme is designed to set minimum standards. It will assist you in your choice of where to stay, what to see and what to do. Wherever you see this sign you can be sure that the accommodation establishment, restaurant, retailer, tour or activity operator has met minimum requirements to ensure you of good service, good facilities, safe practices and of course friendly Cook Islands hospitality. All accommodation establishments and restaurants, together with most businesses advertising within this magazine, are members of the accreditation scheme. We highly recommend that visitors use their services. For more information contact your nearest Cook Islands Tourism Corporation office.
www.cookislands.travel 96 • ESCAPE
www.muribeachclubhotel.com
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Absolute Beachfront Sanctuary for 18yrs and over Premium Wedding Specialists Delightful Polynesian Cuisine at SilverSands Restaurant & Bar Onsite Beauty & Spa
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Beachfront and garden bungalows | onsite restaurant and bar personal wedding co-ordinator rarotonga’s quiet southern coast po Box 23, rarotonga, cook islands p: +682 20002 f: +682 21998 email: beach@palmgrove.co.ck www.palmgrove.net Great value, idyllic location, gorgeous white sandy beach, perfect for the family... Enquire now for competitive rates at our popular motel and private holiday homes.
Aro’a Beachside Inn Beachfront accommodation | Self contained Swimming & snorkelling at your doorstep On the western, leeward side of Rarotonga
PHONE (682) 23537 ACCOMMODATION@PUAIKURA.CO.CK WWW.PUAIKURA.CO.CK
Daily tropical breakfasts & sunsets Home of the ‘Shipwreck Hut’
Phone (682) 22166
www.aroabeach.com ESCAPE • 97
COOK ISLANDS
• • • • • •
Relax Leave the detail to us
...
Hotels, Resorts, Beach Bungalows and Holiday Homes at reduced rates Aitutaki and Outer Islands travel packages Fast reliable and friendly service Great value Centrally located in the heart of town next to Western Union Your one stop shop for travel, foreign exchange and money transfers
Phone (682) 27707 | Fax (682) 28807 Email Jetsave@cooks.co.ck www.jetsave.co.ck
Your Cook Islands accommodation and travel specialists
Motel Conveniently situated just 2 kilometres from the centre of Avarua, with shopping, restaurants and attractions nearby, our motel provides self-contained, comfortable accommodation at the most affordable rates. Overlooking the ocean, we offer a choice of 24 spacious rooms, Budget, Standard and Deluxe, all with full kitchens and separate en-suite bathrooms. Our family units have separate bedrooms. We also have two beach bungalows situated on the western side of the island.
Your home away from home!
tel: (682) 21937 fax: (682) 22937 email: relax@kiikiimotel.co.ck www.kiikiimotel.co.ck
Heron’s Reef
A
n affordable seaside retreat in a tropical garden, situated on a quiet beach. Located at Matavera, just 5 mins from Muri Beach and 10 mins from Avarua. Three well-appointed comfortable units, fully equipped with kitchens. One deluxe unit, The Nautilus, overlooks the lagoon and ocean. The Bougainvillea Studio & Ferns One-bedroom have outdoor patios, mountain views and full use of beachfront. Linen/towels are supplied. Weekly servicing or more often on request.
Ph (682) 26487 Fax (682) 26485 www.tamarind.co.ck
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Idyllically set on the shores of a sheltered lagoon this intimate beachfront resort enjoys stunning sunsets.
18 self-catering air conditioned villas set amongst tropical gardens and across the road from its own stunning beach and reserve. Ideal for couples and families.
35 spacious self-catering studios and suites are situated either on the beachfront overlooking the lagoon or beside either of the two swimming pools amid lush tropical gardens. The resort features an open-air restaurant open for breakfast, lunch and dinner 7 days a week. E: reservations@lagoonbreezevillas.com p: +68 2 22020 • f: +68 2 22021 www.lagoonbreezevillas.com
Phone: (682) 28028 Email: welcome@thesunsetresort.com www.thesunsetresort.com
LAGOON VILLAS
ESCAPE • 99
entertainment guide
Take in the sunset with a cocktail near the water; catch an Island Night Show with beautiful dancers, & get down to live Cook Islands music & dancing around town. Raro’s night life is special – you can have a great night out whether you’re on your own, or with friends. 18 or 80 years old, it doesn’t matter, everyone just gets together. And you’ll feel welcome wherever you go. Island Night Shows are a must for every visitor. There is nothing better than seeing our beautiful men and women, adorned in flowers and local costume, dancing to the
wonderful pate (hollowed wooden drums), ukulele, guitar, and full voiced singers. It is a joyful, sensual and exuberant experience. Check out our Island Night Shows Guide on these pages to find a venue that suits you.
During the week On Monday night at the RSA (or “Razza”), just opposite the Airport, DJ MacDad gets a great crowd going at around 9pm till 12 midnight. A number of Rarotonga restaurants feature live music during the week - refer to our Night Life Guide for details of what’s on, when and where. It’s great to wander into some of our smaller local bars too - the Game Fishing Club is right on the water; meet the locals and play some pool. Chillies Bar is great for a cold beer and occasionally some footie watching on their big screen. Both of these bars are just east of
For times when time doesn ’ t mat ter When good company and great conversation come together, afternoon fades to evening, evening 100 • ESCAPE turns to night and life feels good. What better times to enjoy our much-awarded Marlborough wine.
town. The Nu Bar is a wonderful little local bar/restaurant near the airport, serving great value food and a nice selection of music. Also try Hideaway Bar in Cooks Corner, for a more eclectic feel. On the eastern side of the island, the Avana If you’re staying around the Muri or Titikaveka area, try Silver Sands Restaurant at Muri Beach Club Hotel, Sails Restaurant, Flame Tree Restaurant for a la carte dining and some local music, or perhaps Pacific Resort for their Island Night show. For casual ambience, check out the Asian street-style food at The Rickshaw, or mouthwatering Mexican dishes at La Casita.
s r a l l e c 1 . o Your N
Remember that it pays to make a reservation if visiting a restaurant, to avoid disappointment; and if you want music with your meal, ask who their resident singer is that night. Check the local paper or ask your resort what’s happening at the local sports clubs – join in for some good live music, cheap drinks, and great company. Local women enjoy dressing up, and the men prefer comfortable shorts, shirt/t-shirt and sandals, but dress code is open.
Friday Night Friday night is party night, as clubs and bars can open until 2am, unlike every other night, which is 12 midnight. Downtown Avarua is a great place to start: First up is a sunset cocktail at either Trader Jacks, Café Salsa, or Whatever Bar where there’s always a nice mix of locals and tourists. After a couple of hours, walk across the road to the Garden Bar at the BC (Banana Court), known all over the Pacific. BC’s Garden Bar features local bands from 4pm to 9pm and then its inside for some raw local music and dancing. Trader Jack’s ‘Boogieman’ band, with some of our best musos on the island, starts around 8pm. Hidies Bar, located in Cooks Corner, has a big open-air dance floor, great drinks, a true island flavour and is Rarotonga’s iconic local hangout, with live bands and resident DJ. Open Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights, Hidies famed ‘Happy Hour’ runs Friday from 4-7pm. Later in the night it’s back to Whatever Bar for some dancing, or perhaps try Rehab (near Whatever Bar), for some of the latest hip hop, R’n’B, and techno sounds. The great thing about this town is that the bars are only minutes away from each other. It’s safe and people are friendly and will give you directions. Remember to organise a dedicated driver or taxi if you’re drinking.
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An organized Nightlife Tour is another great way to enjoy your Friday night and you won’t need to do the driving. The Edgewater Resort & Spa and The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa both run their own legendary ‘Pub Crawls’. Be sure to book in advance to avoid disappointment.
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ABSOLUTE KAHLUA
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McGUIGANS CASTLEMAN XXXX TOOHEYS VB STEINLAGER
In central Avarua, opposite Punanga Nui Marketplace Open Mon - Thur 9 to 5 | Fri & Sat 9 to 7 ESCAPE • 101 Phone: 21007 Email: trish@thebond.co.ck
entertainment guide
Rarotonga night-life guide
Keep our roads safe if you’re drinking:
Monday
Dial a driver: 55580 / 55512 / 55515 Taxis: Refer to yellow pages and book homecoming fare before you go out. Clockwise Bus: Evening bus departs Cook’s Corner clockwise only, every hour Monday to Thursday and Saturday from 6pm to 11pm. Friday evenings from 6pm to 10pm and 12 midnight to 2am.
Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Te Rau Maire dance troupe | Island Feast and Cultural Show RSA (“The Razza”): Local DJ Pumping dance music from 9pm Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights Edgewater Resort & Spa: Tok 6:30-8:30 Great Classic tunes, jazz, pop, rock
SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Live island music | Nooroa & Soko on island strings Pacific Resort: Papa Jake, Danny Mataroa and Te Korero Maori Dance Troupe - Polynesia Night Show & Dinner, on the beach Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Fire Dance and Island BBQ @ $49 pp + Karaoke
Island Night Shows – Quick Guide
TUESDAY
(Bookings are recommended)
Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: Seafood Night with entertainment
Monday Phone
Aro’a Beachside Inn: Garth Young on keyboard Great beachside BBQ and classic tunes
Crown Beach Resort & Spa Pacific Resort Rarotonga The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa
23953 20427 25800
Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live Band A la carte menu with live entertainment
Tuesday Edgewater Resort & Spa Te Vara Nui Village Samade on the Beach, Aitutaki
25435 24006 31526
Wednesday Beaches @ Manuia Beach Resort 22461 Highland Paradise 21924 The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa 25800 SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel 23000
Thursday Crown Beach Resort & Spa Staircase Restaurant & Bar Te Vara Nui Village Tamanu Beach, Aitutaki
Bluewater Grill @ Sanctuary Rarotonga-onthe-beach: Live entertainment with Tara Kauvai
23953 22254 24006 31810
Edgewater Resort & Spa: Ta’akoka Dance Troupe | Island NightBuffet and Cultural show SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Live music with Ephraima on keyboards Pacific Resort: A la carte dining & live music with guest artist Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Spices of Asia Mongolian BBQ @ $36 pp + crab racing and Karaoke Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and Over Water Night Show &Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & island/western fusion buffet
WEDNESDAY
Friday Club Bana Bistro Highland Paradise Pacific Resort Rarotonga Pacific Resort, Aitutaki
23236 21924 20427 31720
Saturday Edgewater Resort & Spa Te Vara Nui Village
25435 24006
Beaches Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort: Interactive island experience, with cultural activities, dancing, island buffet, and fire show Edgewater Resort & Spa: Local Band A la carte Seafood menu with local entertainment SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel:Island Night Extravaganza | Top Akirata Dance Troup Pacific Resort: A la carte dining & live music with guest artist
Remember you’re in Raro now, on ‘Island Time’, so relax and enjoy!
Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: ‘Legends of Polynesia’ Island Night UMU Feast & Drum Dance Show @ $49 pp + Karaoke
Edgewater Resort & Spa: Ru & Boys A la carte menu with great local sounds Garden Bar - Banana Court: Live Entertainment Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel:Live music with the sweet sounds of Cathy on keyboard Pacific Resort: Leilani & Co on keyboard & guitar Originals, classics & soulful r’n’b Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and Over Water Night Show & Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & island/western fusion buffet Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Reef & Beef night @ $36 pp with mellow musical accompaniment by Andre Tapena. Windjammer Restaurant: First class dining with piano by Garth Young Whatever Bar: Great value meals with local music
FRIDAY
Beaches Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort: Enjoy the sounds of Manuia Beach Resorts famous string band with Natua and the boys Cafe Salsa: Live entertainment with great music & fabulous food Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live Band T-Bone Steak Night with live entertainment Edgewater Resort & Spa: Tok 6:30–8:30 Dining with great local music + Edgewater Resorts “Nitelife Tour” Garden Bar - Banana Court: Great local & upbeat music with bar snacks available Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights Pacific Resort:Tamariki Manuia Island Night Show on the beach Rehab: Boogie night with local DJ. Hip-hop, R’n’B, Techno SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Pig & Prawn Night | With live music by Lei Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Flame-Grilled Steak Night @ $36 pp + The Rarotongan’s famous Friday Funbus Nitelife Tour @ $25 pp. Trader Jacks: Boogieman - rock classics & seafood, steaks & pizza Whatever Bar:Live Band &DJ T. Bone steak, fish, burgers
SATURDAY
Aroa Beachside Inn: Great Seafood Beachside BBQ & the island music of Papa Jake Numanga Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live Entertainment A la carte menu with local & classic tunes
Whatever Bar: Local string band 7-9pm
Edgewater Resort& Spa: Island Night Buffet & Cultural Show with Orama Dance Group
THURSDAY
Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights
Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: Pub Night menu with live entertainment Aro’a Beachside Inn: Sunset cocktails with live music by Rudy Aquino
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Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Akirata dance troupe | Island Night Show & Dinner
Pacific Resort: Tok 6:30-8:30 Great Classics, jazz, rock, r’n’b Rehab: DJ. Hip hop, R’n’B’, dance night
Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Fire Dance Show & Island BBQ @ $49 pp + Karaoke Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and Over Water Night Show & Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & island/western fusion buffet Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Firedance Show & Island Barbeque + Karaoke Whatever Bar: Scrumptuous menu with live music by local string band
SUNDAY
Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Sunday Carvery Roast @ $36 pp with Tok on guitar
Flying Boat Beach Bar & Grill @ Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa: Live entertainment with Greig Mose Pacific Resort: Fire dancing show – fabulous a la carte menu
Aitutaki night-life guide MONDAY
Bounty Brasserie @ Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: Spa: Fire dance show, a la carte dinner & crab BBQ with live entertainment races Tupuna’s Restaurant: Great a-la-carte Bluewater Grill @ Sanctuary Rarotonga-ondining with the freshest local foods in a the-beach: Live entertainment with Tara Kauvai relaxed garden setting. Mon-Sat from 6pm Club Raro: BBQ night with local string band Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Roast Night with TUESDAY live entertainment Samade OnThe Beach: Island buffet and cultural show on the sandy beach at Ootu Edgewater Resort & Spa: Ru & Boys -local string band WEDNESDAY SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Beach Aitutaki Game Fishing Club: A good evening BBQ Grill Night from $25 pp + live music with to visit and meet the locals. Where else would Papa Jake Numanga. you find a bar in a 20 foot container? Pacific Resort: Fine dining with local and mixed melodies by Thomas Rauru
The Boatshed Bar & Grill: Check out this popular restaurant any day of the week. A-lacarte menu for lunch & dinner. Great cocktails!
THURSDAY
Tamanu Beach: Island Fire &Dance Show on the beach. Fantastic entertainment with a great selection of food
FRIDAY
Aitutaki Game Fishing Club: One of the most popular local bars to visit for a sun-downer Coconut Crusher Bar: Entertainment and party the night away with your host Ricky Flying Boat Beach Bar & Grill @ Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa: Live entertainment with Greig Mose. | Funbus Nitelife Tour @ $35 pp Pacific Resort Aitutaki: Island Night & Show With great local entertainment and food
SUNDAY
Samade On The Beach: Barbeque with great entertainment Tamanu Beach: Sunset Barbeque Night with great local entertainment and island food
Prices or schedules are subject to change at any time.
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what's on
t
hroughout the year we find many reasons to celebrate and have fun, and there’s always plenty to do and see on Rarotonga and her sister islands. As most Cook Islanders are willing sports participants, you’ll find a multitude of sports codes and clubs active throughout the islands, where you are always welcome to visit. As for festivals and celebratory events, it is certain that you will always find something of interest taking place.
July
September
December
Tue 23rd Mauke Gospel Day – public holiday Mauke
Sun 1st Fathers Day
Wed 4th to Sat 7th Te Mire Tiare Flower Festival
Wed 25th Rarotonga Gospel Day – public holiday Rarotonga
Sat 21st Rugby Union 15’s Grand Finals
Tue 3rd to Sat 7th National Tennis Championships
Round Rarotonga Road Race
Fri 6th Pukapuka Gospel Day – public holiday Pukapuka
Thu 25th to Mon 5th August Te Maeva Nui Celebrations 2013 commences. This year's celebrations are the biggest for many years and mark the 48th anniversary of the Cook Islands gaining independence. Fri 26th Te Maeva Nui float parade - downtown Avarua Sun 28th Te Maeva Nui Celebrations Choir & Imene Tuki (Traditional Hymns) Mon 29th to Aug 5th Te Maeva Nui Celebrations Island Trade & Food Days with cultural performances
Fri 27th School Term 3 complete – School Holidays begin
October Sat 5th Rarotonga Club Rugby 7’s starts Thu 10th Te Maire Tama 2013 @ the National Auditorium Miss Tiare pageant & Young Warriors competition Mon 14th School Term 4 begins
August
Fri 25th Aitutaki Gospel Day – public holiday Aitutaki
Fri 2nd to Sat 10th Constitution 7’s tournament
Sat 26th National Gospel Day – public holiday
Sun 4th Constitution Day
Thu 31st to Sat 2nd Nov Cook Islands International Rugby 7’s Tournament. Also known as ‘Sevens in Heaven', this event is fast becoming one of the most sought after 7’s competitions in the Pacific. See story page 52
Mon 5th National Self Governing Commemorative Day – public holiday
Fri 13th School Term 4 complete – School Holidays begin Wed 18th Christmas in the Park (to be confirmed) Wed 25th Christmas Day Thu 26th Boxing Day Fri 27th Christmas Period Holiday
January 2014 Wed 1st New Years Day – public holiday Thu 2nd New Year observed – public holiday Mon 27th School Term 1 begins
February 2014
Thu 8th Manihiki Gospel Day – public holiday Manihiki
November
Dates TBC Squash – Business House Competitions commence
Mon 12th School Term 3 begins
Thu 1st Turama – All Souls Day
Canoeing – Oe Vaka Sprint Season commences
Thur 15th Rugby Under 18 College game Eltham College (UK) vs Tereora College
Fri 22nd to Fri 29th Vaka Eiva 2013 Canoeing Festival A weeklong festival that attracts a large number of international paddlers. Vaka Eiva has been referred to “the most fun event on the paddling planet!”
Rakahanga Gospel Day – public holiday Rakahanga
N.B. All events take place on Rarotonga, unless stated otherwise. Dates and events are provided courtesy of Cook Islands Tourism Corporation and are subject to change without notice. Visitors are advised to confirm event dates with the Visitor Information Centre – phone (682) 29435, or by email: lydia@cookislands.gov.ck
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Te Maeva Nui
6
Events that you shouldn’t miss…
May
Te Mire Ura – Dancer of the Year
Poetry in motion is a euphemism made literal in Polynesia, no truer than when the annual Dancer of the Year competition is held each April. Dozens of dancers in three age groups, junior, intermediate and open, take to the stage at nightspots on Rarotonga and the outer islands. Finals are then held at the 2,000 seat national auditorium in Rarotonga under the direction of the Ministry of Cultural Development. An entertaining evening watching the finals at the auditorium sees a mingling of locals and tourists filling the place up, packed out with kids - every dancer of the year is every kid’s idol until the next year. Winners are chosen on criteria like costume, choreography and degree-of-difficulty. Years ago an ideological invasion by the London Missionary Society stamped out all but the most demure of dance moves, barely tolerating those. What was long lost has now been renewed, as it was for centuries, with inspiration from nature, visitors, and ‘foreign’ influences in a competition of the imagination; always competitive and always a most entertaining and enlightening spectacle for visitors.
JUNE International Kitesurfing Competition In June some of the biggest names in kitesurfing will head to the Cook Islands to vie for the top spot at the international kitesurfing competition on Aitutaki. The Cook Islands Kitesurfing Association, in conjunction with the events team at Cook Islands Tourism, will manage this big event which promises to catapult the Cook Islands on to the international stage as a desirable kitesurfing destination. 2011’s inaugural event has already generated support for the association, which has been admitted as an official member of the International Kitesurfing Association. The competition is held at Motu Maina Iti on Aitutaki. Check with the Visitor Information Centre for dates. Phone (682) 29435 or email: Lydia@cookislands.gov.ck
July/August Te Maeva Nui – Celebrating our nation’s independence Every year from June to August about 2000 people on Rarotonga and on the outer islands put their lives on hold to prepare for Te Maeva Nui, the national culture and dance festival. It is a weeklong cultural marathon held around the date of August 4th, which is the birthday of the Cook Islands as an independent nation. Whilst each year in April, solo dancers compete for the title of ‘Dancer of the Year’,
it is the big dance teams from different islands and districts who challenge each other during Te Maeva Nui. It is an intense competition, which requires energy and dedication from a large percentage of the Cook Islands population. For five nights the exuberant performances become a vibrant testimony of the passionate commitment Cook Islanders have to their dance and culture. The dynamic drum dance is the favourite of most locals and visitors, but each team competes in four disciplines in total: Ute (song-chant), Pe’e (chant and theatre), Kapa Rima (action song) and Ura Pa’u (drum dance). And, it is the thrill of anticipation that excites the local audience – what new dances, costumes, songs and chants are in store? You may have seen cultural dance shows around the island, or perhaps in your resort, but you haven’t seen anything that even closely resembles the vibrancy and passion of the finals at Te Maeva Nui, held in the National Stadium. This is the cultural highlight of the Cook Islands year; the only people who are ever disappointed are those who miss it.
October 7’s in Heaven The Cook Islands International Rugby 7’s Tournament which is also known as ‘Sevens in Heaven'. This event is fast becoming one of the most sought after 7’s competitions in the Pacific. Turn to page 52 to read the full story about this exciting and fun event.
ESCAPE • 105
November Vaka Eiva
Hundreds of paddlers and their supporters hit Rarotonga’s shores in November each year for the Steinlager Vaka Eiva; an exciting and fun outrigger canoeing festival, which is now the largest sporting event in the country. While the rugby 7s festival generates plenty of excitement in these rugby mad islands, there’s no doubt the influx of paddlers and supporters to the island hypes things up even more for the exciting week of Vaka Eiva activities; and oe vaka is fast establishing itself as one of the largest and most popular sporting codes in the country. What makes it even more special, is that outrigger canoeing is one of the few traditional Polynesian sports that have survived the test of time, plus it has strong cultural significance and roots in the Pacific islands. Vaka Eiva is a festival promoting both competition and the culture of oe vaka.
Held annually since 2004, Vaka Eiva has established a reputation as a hugely enjoyable week of racing, culture, and festivities, and attracts crews from throughout the world. Vaka Eiva Boiler Swim
There’s an air of festivity on the island the whole week long, from the opening ceremony, throughout the week of racing and social activities, to the wrap up paddler’s party at Trader Jack’s waterfront bar. Trader Jack is one sponsor who has been involved from the start and this is the hangout of choice for paddlers and spectators throughout the week, giving close views of the start and finish of the ocean races.
December Te Mire Tiare Flower Festival This happy and colourful festival is held every year in December and usually features a different theme each year. There are competitions for the best floral decorated shops, schools and government buildings, each one on a different day of the week long festivities. Locals also vie
for the honour of making the best head or neck ‘ei (garland), best pot plant and much more. The glamorous focal point to the week is undoubtedly the ‘Miss Tiare’ competition which sees attractive young ladies competing for this prestigious title. The first appearance of the contestants is usually at the Punanga Nui marketplace on the first Saturday of the festival; the weeks wraps up with a colourful float parade and crowning of Miss Tiare on the following Saturday. For more information and to confirm event dates, visitors are advised to contact the Visitor Information Centre – phone (682) 29435, or by email: lydia@cookislands.gov.ck
www.cookislands.travel
Downtown Avarua Next to the ANZ Bank We’re here to help you! Advice on accommodation, tours, restaurants, activities, entertainment and travel to our other islands. Phone or call in to see us.
Open: Monday to Friday 8am - 4pm Saturday 9am - 12 noon Phone: (682) 29435 Email: headoffice@cookislands.travel
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Head Office P.O. Box 14, Rarotonga, Cook Islands Phone: (682) 29435 Fax: (682) 21435 headoffice@cookislands.travel
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The rental car company operating to international standards.
• Hatchbacks
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Aroa (across from The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa)
Ph: 29227 Ph: 26227 Ph: 23227 Ph: 25227 Ph: 24227 Ph: 21039
Phone 29227
Roadside Assistance (8am to 10pm) Ph 54325 Email: reservations@polynesianhire.co.ck
www.polynesianhire.co.ck
• Yamaha Nouvo 115cc 2 seater - fully auto • Hybrid, Mountain & Beach Cruiser Bicycles
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cook islands black pearls
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www.bergmanandsons.com