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a love of whales A glimpse into the life of Nan Hauser, world renowned whale researcher.
THE ELUSIVE BONEFISH Aitutaki’s lagoon is haven to some of the largest bonefish in the world. JAKE NUMANGA Winner of Outstanding Contribution to Tourism Award. MITIARO’S TE IKITI EXPERIENCE A new home-stay programme on the island of Mitiaro.
www.escapemagazine.travel
One unforgettable Day “the view of the island from the plane was just spectacular.”
“this is the way fish should be cooked, just gorgeous!” “they’re so friendly, you feel like part of the family.”
LM/SD 2022128
“this tour was the highlight of our trip. We loved every minute of it.”
“this was the best tour of our stay in th Cooks.” 2 • ESCAPE
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A i r r A ro t o n g A ’ s DAy t o u r i n C L u D e s : Flights depart daily (except Sundays) from Rarotonga Airport at 8.00am. Returns 5.30pm. For more information see our hotel tour desk or call our reservations centre (7 days) on 22-888.
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CONTENTS Issue 16 • July 2012 42
Up front
Tour of the Cook Islands
6
Introduction
11
An introduction to the Cook Islands
8
Contributors to this issue
24
Rarotonga
66
Aitutaki
80
Atiu
84
Southern & Northern Group Islands
Features 42 Mitiaro’s Te ikiti Experience A new home-stay programme on the island of Mitiaro now gives visitors the opportunity to live, eat and work with the locals, in this rare pocket of paradise. 50 For the love of whales A glimpse into the life of Nan Hauser, world renowned whale researcher and caretaker of the Cook Islands whale sanctuary; the first in the South Pacific. 58 Jake Numanga’s outstanding contribution to tourism Playing the ukulele and singing a welcoming song to visitors at the airport, recently won Jake the coveted award for Outstanding Contribution to Tourism. 64 The legend of Luka and Leiakunavai As narrated to Amelia Borofsky by Form 5 pupils of Niua School on the island of Pukapuka. 72 Chasing Aitutaki’s elusive bonefish Aitutaki’s lagoon is haven to some of the largest bonefish in the world. Alan Syme discovers why this fishing treasure trove is now establishing an international reputation with anglers. 78 Environment First At the 2011/12 Air New Zealand Cook Islands Tourism Awards, Pacific Divers takes out the coveted ANZ Bank sponsored Environment Award. 82 Island Entrepreneur Sandra Paterson talks to Roger Malcolm about building a resort, and a life, on an outer island.
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50
Regulars 12 Art Scene Pearl and pearl shell carving by popular local artist Tokerau Jim, plus an insight into upcoming exhibitions at the Beachcomber Art Galley. 18
Book Worms A review of topical authors and their books.
20 Raro Rhythm Garth Young on keyboards! The remarkable history of this very talented musician. 22
What’s in Store? Taking a look in shop windows.
32
Island Cuisine We visit local restaurants and share their best recipes.
88
Great Places to Stay A guide to some of Rarotonga’s best accommodation.
92 ‘The Bond’ Entertainment Guide The inside story on the best clubs, island shows and nightlife. 96
What’s On? A calendar of events and holidays.
COOK ISLANDS’ ICONIC SISTER RESORTS
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EDITOR'S Note Kia Orana
publisher South Pacific Publishing Limited, Rarotonga editor Noel Bartley design Christina Thiele | Ultimo Group Auckland, New Zealand printed in Korea Tara TPS Ltd Seoul, Korea advertising director Noel Bartley regular contributors Rachel Reeves Judith Kunzle Rachel Smith Alan Syme Florence Syme-Buchanan advertising sales rarotonga Noel Bartley Phone: (682) 23449 or 54449 Email: advertise@escape.co.ck advertising sales new zealand Phone: 09 419 6416 Email: scenix@ihug.co.nz distribution rarotonga Danny Kelly Phone: (682) 20777 or 77876 Email: kelly@oyster.net.ck distribution aitutaki Annie Bishop Phone: (682) 31009 Email: bishopcruz@aitutaki.net.ck Escape is published bi-annually by South Pacific Publishing Limited P.O. Box 3010, Rarotonga, Cook Islands Email: advertise@escape.co.ck All contents of ESCAPE magazine are copyright of South Pacific Publishing Limited. Any reproduction of any part of this magazine without prior written permission is strictly prohibited. front cover Rarotonga aerial view. Photo: Noel Bartley.
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The loveliest part of my work is having the opportunity to visit our smaller islands from time to time. Earlier this year when the Mitiaro ‘Te Itiki Experience’ was launched, I had the good fortune to visit that island once again, to discover how this new approach to tourism hospitality might work. Mitiaro’s ‘Te Itiki Experience’ is not for everyone. It is designed for those who like to get off the beaten track, discover new places and embrace the way of life of the local people. For those looking for such an adventure, this is indeed the most delightful way to go about it. The ‘experience’ is all about being embraced by the hospitality of not only your Mitiaro host, but indeed by the entire small population. The warmth of welcome from every person we came into contact with and the genuine desire to show not only the features of the island, but the way of life itself, is a pure tonic. A visit here takes you quite beyond the realms of time, quickly soothing away all thoughts of the outside world. I’m sure you will enjoy reading our Mitiaro story on page 42. It’s an uplifting experience to meet with people who approach their chosen occupation in life with energy, passion and dedication. One such person is Nan Hauser – The Whale Lady, portrayed in our story on page 50. Other equally enthusiastic personalities such as Jake Numanga, Steve Lyons and Roger Malcolm also feature in this issue. I hope you enjoy reading their stories, as much as I have enjoyed bringing them to you. Ka Kite! Noel Bartley
KIA ORANA Welcome Kia Orana kotou katoatoa – Welcome to all our visitors and may you live on. This is our traditional greeting here in the Cook Islands and it is meant to convey our delight at meeting you and our desire for you to live a long and happy life similar to what we live here in our home. The 15 islands of our country cover an area the size of Europe and each showcases a different element of the Cook Islands personality and beauty, for all who discover them. Whether your choice is floating in a turquoise lagoon, hiking over jungle covered tracks in the cloud forests, discovering wildly coloured fish and flowers, or just hanging out with the locals; every day of your stay will bring you joy through new experiences, delight at the warmth of our welcome, and a relaxation that you can only find when surrounded by nature. Make sure that you relish every moment of your stay, engage with our people and experience our destination in all its facets. If you can’t travel to Manihiki or Penrhyn to dive for a pearl, then discover your perfect specimen at one of our shops here in Rarotonga. Feast on our local produce; watch the Mamas making their traditional Tivaevae at the Punanga Nui markets; explore the caves of Mangaia; don’t forget to taste the coffee on Atiu; have your passport stamped at One Foot Island in glorious Aitutaki, and be beguiled by the throb of the drums and sensuous sway of hips at one of our cultural evenings. In other words, come to a destination that delivers excitement, warmth and laughter with the peace to hear the sound of your own heart beating. Inside the pages of Escape Magazine you will find great stories of the people and places of the islands and great ideas for your stay with us – I wish you well. Meitaki maata e kia manuia oki vave mai kia matou – thank you, stay well and return to us soon! Carmel Beattie Chief Executive Officer, Cook Islands Tourism Corporation
THE
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Departs Monday to Saturday at 10am from O’otu and returns at 4pm.
Book at your hotel or online www.aitutaki.net or tel. 52294
CONTRIBUTORS Rachel Reeves Born and raised in California, Rachel Michele Teana Reeves has Atiu roots on her father’s side. She moved to Rarotonga two years ago to get to know her Cook Islands heritage, and has fallen in love with the island and island life. This young and vibrant 23-year-old has a passion for writing and works as a journalist for Cook Islands News. Upon graduating from university, she taught English in Vietnam, Thailand and Nepal. Rachel enjoys being active – running, swimming, oe vaka, windsurfing, snowboarding – and reading. She is grateful to the people of the Cook Islands, who have welcomed her with warmth and the spirit of aloha.
Alan Syme Alan lives on the beach with his wife and young family, on the west side of Rarotonga. He has lived in the Cook Islands for the past three years and has developed a real affinity with the people and the country. A secondary school teacher during working hours, after hours he can be found game fishing, surfing, playing sport, writing or spending time with his three children. He also is a senior writer for the NZ Fishing Coast to Coast Magazine. He enjoys visiting the outer islands as well as indulging himself in the wide range of outdoor activities that are available on beautiful Rarotonga. During his time here, Alan has made plenty of friends, is enjoying the challenge of developing his maori language skills, and is looking forward to a few exciting adventures in the Cook Islands coming up in the future.
Florence Syme-Buchanan Cook Islands freelance journalist Florence Syme-Buchanan has been writing about her country for many years, as correspondent for various international news agencies and publications. She now lives in Auckland with her partner Tanara Buchanan and children Te Manava and Fe'ena, after moving there last year.
Sandra Paterson Sandra spent two years living in the Cook Islands with her young daughter. During that time, she had a day-job as a lettucepicker, paddled for a women’s outrigger team, volunteered as a teacher on an outer island and learned how to pluck and gut a chicken. A former New Zealand Herald columnist and TV3 reporter, she is now – reluctantly – based back in New Zealand, working as a freelance journalist. She visits the Cook Islands as often as she can and continues to write about the country which has captured her heart. Sandra’s contribution to this issue can be found on page 82. Also: Rachel Smith, Amelia Borofsky, Glenda Tuaine, Judith Kunzle, Ben Bergman, Peter Morse and Noel Bartley.
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ESCAPE • 9
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The Cook Islands 15 tiny islands in paradise, that a small nation calls home.
W
here would someone say, “may you live long,” upon meeting you for the first time, but in the Cook Islands. The Cook Islands greeting Kia Orana, means exactly that, “may you live long.” It is a unique first gesture of friendship from a special Polynesian people, renown for their hospitality and warmth. It is as if God chose his 15 most precious gems, and then sprinkled them over 2.25 million sq km of the Pacific to become the Cook Islands – an ei (necklace) of islands awaiting to embrace all visitors. All the islands combined make up a land area of just 240 sq km. Each of the ‘gems’ is unlike the other and all have their own special features. From the majestic peaks of Rarotonga to the low-lying untouched coral atolls of the northern islands of Manihiki, Penrhyn, Rakahanga, Pukapuka, Nassau and Suwarrow. The latter, inhabited only by a caretaker and his family, is a popular anchorage for yachts from all over the world. The Southern Cooks is made up of the capital Rarotonga, Aitutaki, Atiu, Mangaia, Mauke, Mitiaro, Manuae, Palmerston and Takutea. Takutea is an uninhabited bird sanctuary and managed by the Atiu Island Council. Manuae is the remaining uninhabited island. Cook Islanders have their own Maori language and each of the populated islands a distinct dialect. It has a population of around 13,000. The Cooks has been self-governing in free association with New Zealand since 1965. By virtue of that unique relationship, all Cook Islanders hold New Zealand passports. The country is governed by 25-member Parliament elected by universal suffrage. The Cook Islands Parliamentary system is modelled on the Westminster system of Britain. The Queens Representative is Head of State. A House of Ariki (traditional paramount chiefs) counsels and advises government, as does the Koutu Nui, a body of traditional chiefs.
Cook Islands
This is a delightful Pacific country where the ‘metropolis’ of Rarotonga offers a wide range of activities, accommodation and cuisine and visitors can choose to be as busy as they wish. A short inter-island flight away are the less developed southern group islands each offering something different. Travelling to the isolated northern islands by inter-island flight or boat, one savours a South Pacific rarely seen by outsiders. Due to distance and infrequency of transport there are fewer visitors to the northern group islands. But wherever you turn you see bright tropical colours and movement, whether it is the sway of palms and sea in the trade winds, or dancers entertaining at one of the many nightspots found on Rarotonga and Aitutaki. While you may nearly always hear the ocean, you will always feel the warmth of the people and their tropical paradise. The Cook Islands truly is a slice of heaven.
ESCAPE • 11
art scene story: Judith Kunzlé
Tokerau Jim’s unique pearl shell jewellery Cook Islands artist Tokerau Jim is renowned for his exquisite pearl shell and pearl carvings.
12 • ESCAPE
LORETTA REYNOLDS Original Artwork
t
okerau has been the Cook Islands pioneer of pearl shell carving. His career started 20 years ago, when his father brought big, wild shells of the Black-lipped Pearl (Pinctada margaritifera) from Suwarrow, an atoll in the Cook Islands Northern Group. Tokerau was inspired by their beauty and started to cut and carve shapes, creating simple designs for his family and friends.
contrasting the luster with the texture of a perfectly carved traditional pattern.
BCA Gallery, Avarua The Art Studio, Arorangi
lorettareynolds.com
Tokerau stays true to traditional Polynesian patterns on both shells and pearls, but he arranges them in elegant formations following the natural colour of the mother of pearl. And he has created a big variety of shapes for his pearl shell pendants such as fish hooks, turtles and
Tokerau stays true to traditional Polynesian patterns on both shells and pearls, but he arranges them in elegant formations following the natural colour of the mother of pearl. Soon, local businesses noticed his talent and encouraged him to explore tools and methods to carve the shells. He developed a technique to carve more detailed patterns, a discovery which eventually enhanced his skill of carving intricate designs into pearls.
whale flukes. “You have to develop an eye for it, because each shell has different combination of colours and contrasts: golden, rose, blue-green and some rare ones are purple or almost blue-black. I cut each pendant inspired by the shell's quality and its unique colouring.”
Initially, the carving of pearls was a way to hide unfortunate blemishes on otherwise perfect pearls, but a good carver like Tokerau Jim will enhance a pearl's value by
Tokerau has taught many fellow carvers and trained several apprentices on Rarotonga. He is respected as a master carver in the South Pacific and in 2008, the
Air conditioned Matavera Store (Eastern side near Muri beach) Market Store (Punanganui market on Saturdays)
ESCAPE • 13
“You have to develop an eye for it, because each shell has different combination of colours and contrasts: golden, rose, blue-green and some rare ones are purple or almost blue-black. SPC (South Pacific Commission) invited him to share his experience and teach his skills to carvers on Vava'u in Tonga. He brought new drills and carving tools to Vava'u to introduce his students to state-of-the-art methods of shell carving. He is not worried about his growing competition. “You have to move on and come up with new ideas and techniques all the time to stay ahead of the copy-cats.” he says. The Tokerau Jim showroom and store is on the main road on the eastern side of Rarotonga, in Matavera. He also has an outlet at the Punanga Nui Marketplace. Tokerau Jim's collection features classic and innovative pendants with traditional Polynesian motifs, earrings and Pandora bracelet pearls.
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visit: www.tokeraujim.com
story: Ben Bergman
Contemporary Art @ BCA Gallery May – November 2012.
t
he BCA domestic season kicked off in May with Nanette Lela’ulu’s ReSpect. Renowned for her challenging portraiture, Lela’ulu delivers in spades with her new exhibition. 5 large scale portraits make up this series and feature contemporary art personalities John Ioane, Reuben Paterson, Shigiyuki Kihara, Sylvia Marsters and Ben Bergman. In June, Ewan Smith, managing director and founder of the Cook Islands domestic airline Air Rarotonga, presents a photographic essay of 21st century Polynesian life. A resident of Rarotonga for the past 40 years, Smith's analysis is delivered through images of modern seafaring Vaka - traditionally inspired, ocean going, double hulled canoes; Ura - Cook Islands cultural dancing and Ekalesia iconic limestone churches constructed in the nineteenth century. Smith's photographic book 'The Cook Islands' was released in 1998, with a second revised edition released in 2011. In August, Mahiriki Tangaroa’s continued exploration of Cook Islands history, customs and traditions takes on new direction following her appointment as Curator to the National Museum. Central
to her concerns is the continued elevation of entrenched Christian doctrine at the expense of vital cultural knowledge. The artist’s paintings, normally constructed around the genesis trio of pre-missionary Cook Islands gods Tangaroa, Rongo and the un-named Aitutaki Goddess, offers a window into contemporary Polynesian life with a poignant plea to recoup as much cultural collateral as possible, before it is lost forever.
detailed series of ‘ufological’ paintings upon which his new works are partially based. Actively exhibiting in Auckland, Dunedin, Christchurch, Rarotonga and New York over the past four years, Leleisi’uao’s excitingly animated style of painting is evolving at a rapid pace. The artists well recognized ‘creature-scapes’ are occupied by a morphing, new entity that is part alien, part human and part
(Andy's) highly eruptive style of painting at the time soon morphed into his renowned, intricately detailed series of ‘ufological’ paintings upon which his new works are partially based. In September, BCA features New Zealand artist Andy Leleisi’uao. Early in his career, Leleisi’uao, born in New Zealand of Samoan heritage, was profoundly affected by the treatment of Polynesian migrants within New Zealand society, particularly the infamous dawn raids that specifically targeted the Samoan community of Auckland. His highly eruptive style of painting at the time soon morphed into his renowned, intricately
animal. Possessing a new consciousness free of the traditional human paradox, Leleisi’uao’s alternative realms are populated by genesis beings with a new language and an idealistic culture, part faux mythology, part sci-fi – a secular, kaleidoscopic experience. In a new series of works on transparent acrylic sheet, Cook Islands Artist Loretta Reynolds’ on-going exploration of
ESCAPE • 15
previous page: Andy Leleisi'uao, Rarotonga series, acrylic on canvas left: Nanette Lela'ulu, Home Baked Little Monster, oil and acrylic below: Mahiriki Tangaroa, Another Gospel to Believe In
contemporary Rarotongan cultural values incorporates new motifs with an innovative visual presentation. Painting with a reflective surface, the artist essentially paints in reverse, leading in with the darkest colours and finishing with the lightest. Immediate parallels with the William Wyatt Gill book ‘From Darkness to Light in Polynesia’ are drawn, however with the premise judiciously reversed. The traditional Rarotongan God Tangaroa remains front and centre in Reynolds’s work, along with developing Polynesian iconography. In her solo exhibition In Tangaroa we Trust (BCA 2011), the artists humorous reference to the incongruous by-line of American identity, draws the viewers’ attention through a vortex of cultural veracity; the mirror like presentation of the works delivering a universe of past, present and future self-analysis. In 2012, Reynolds looks to
16 • ESCAPE
advance her proposition, with adventurous new development in her work. Following on from her 2011 exhibition Takeaways at BCA, Elam fine arts school (Auckland University) graduate Tabatha Forbes environmental and social concerns continue to be shaped by her presence on Rarotonga. New delivery media has been chosen for her 2012 show, uniquely befitting the artists Island environment. Founded in 2001, BCA Gallery is regionally recognized for its diverse offering of contemporary art by both emerging and established artists from the Cook Islands, Samoa and New Zealand. BCA Gallery is one of few galleries within the pacific region to offer a privately funded ‘Artist in Residence’ Program. BCA Gallery exhibits in Rarotonga, Auckland and New York.
BCA is located at the rear courtyard of the historic, 166 year old Beachcomber building in the capital township off Avarua, Rarotonga, Cook Islands. BCA is open Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm & Saturday 9am12pm or by appointment. For exhibition dates and opening details, please phone + 682 21939 or + 682 55012. For more information please see www.gallerybca.com
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The all new Beachcomber Contemporary Art Gallery (BCA) was opened June 8th 2009 by the Hon. Wilkie Rasmussen, Minister of Tourism with a keynote speech by Ron Brownson, Senior Curator, New Zealand & Pacific Art, Auckland City Art Gallery, Toi O Tamaki. Evolving from its former premises in the original Beachcomber building, the new purpose built space is dedicated to the exhibition of exceptional domestic and international contemporary art.
Our remarkable history Experience the romantic ambience of Beachcomber. Constructed in 1845 by the London Missionary Society, our landmark, historic building is a rare living gem. Submerge yourself in our tropical garden & The Beachcomber Courtyard Cafe. Indulge in a fabulous espresso made from locally roasted coffee beans & an Island inspired menu.
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Be truely inspired by nature & choose from our collection of beautiful Cook Islands Black Pearls. Renowned for their stunning colours, shapes and size, Cook Islands Black Pearls are our national gem. Select your very own precious black pearl & then decide how you would like it set from our 'ready to wear' collection of silver & gold settings.
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unfo orgettable gettab Increasing international media coverage now recognizes the Cook Islands as a growing regional art hub.
BCA represents Michel Tuffery, Andy Leleisi'uao, Loretta Reynolds, Mark Cross, Rick Welland, Jerome Shedden, Henriata Nicholas, Mike Tavioni, Kay George, Tim Buchanan and NYC artist Yazmany Arboleda. www.gallerybca.com
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book worms and how they learnt the traditional art of making the magnificent traditional bed covers.
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Rarotonga & Aitutaki Noel Bartley One of the largest and perhaps the most comprehensive collections of Cook Islands photography has been built up over two decades by publisher and photographer Noel Bartley. Recently Noel, who also publishes award winning Escape Magazine, produced two new pictorial books, one entitled Rarotonga, the other Aitutaki, using some of the stunning images from his vast collection. Beautiful photographs leap out from every one of the 100 pages of each book, providing wonderful imagery of both Rarotonga and Aitutaki. Noel has captured well the country’s two most popular visitor destinations, the people, culture, and island life. Escape Magazine’s main contributing writer Florence SymeBuchanan provides an informative introduction to each book.
18 • ESCAPE
The Art of Tivaevae is a book that one will first flick through, until the stunning photographs and delightful real-life stories gradually draws one in. An interesting introduction gives the background of tivaevae and its role in Cook Islands. Useful reference material for anyone wanting to learn more about the unique bed covers, are the three pages covering tivaevae making techniques.
These books rank amongst the best now available in terms of photographic quality. Retailing at around $39.90 they would also be the best in terms of value for money and certainly make wonderful souvenirs of the islands. Both titles are on sale at most retailers including CITC, Bounty Bookshop, Island Craft, Treasure Chest stores, Island Style, Beachcomber, Perfumes of Rarotonga and at some resorts.
The Art of Tivaevae When Cook Islands writer Lynnsay Francis’ The Art of Tivaevae won the lifestyle section of the prestigious Montana New Zealand Book Awards back in 2002, she saw it more as a triumph for all Cook Islands women. This is an attractive book with superb photographs by John Daley, it contains charming narratives from 23 women who relate the role tivaevae has in their lives
Francis and the 23 women profiled deserve to be proud of this book. As Cook Islands scholar Rangi Moeka’a writes in his foreword, “The womenfolk here have not only taken the art of tivaevae making to the pinnacle of excellence, but subconsciously expressed their innermost feelings of love and appreciation for their environment.” That statement is verified by the many exquisite works portrayed by Daley. The book is dedicated by Francis to her five daughters and “the many women of the Cook Islands whom I have met who constantly inspire me.”
TivaevaeCollectables.com Traditional Pacific Fabric Art for your home
From Kauri Trees to Sunlit Seas Shoe-string shipping in the South Pacific For a light read, turn to Don Silk’s popular book From Kauri Trees to Sunlit Seas. It’s like having a seat at the captain’s table; many are the salty yarns about leaks and creaks of inter-island shipping in the ‘70’s. Silk and his cargo crony Bob Boyd were a household name during the 1970’s and sometimes criticized; but this book exposes the exasperating realities of their lives and the challenges of their occupation, with good humour and compassion.
The Must Stop Shop For quality tivaevae bedcovers, duvets, cushion covers, baby cot covers, table cloths, place mats, jewellery, hula dolls, handbags and more. Look for our sign west of the airport - opposite the Weather Station in Nikao. Rarotonga - Ph Anne 24688 NZL -Ph Kathrine (09)4807620
SHOP ONLINE
www.tivaevaecollectables.com email: info@tivaevaecollectables.com
Hailing from New Zealand, Silk charts humble beginnings, to their inter-island heydays, until both boats, the Manuvai and the Mataora, ended up on outer island reefs, the fate of most traders. His comments on Tahiti apply equally to all the islands: “People say Tahiti is not like it used to be. People are saying it now, they were saying it then, and Captain Cook said as much on his second voyage. I believe any time is the best time to see Tahiti. The sooner - the better! For it certainly won’t be the same again, ever.”
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raro rhythm
Forever Young story: Glenda Tuaine photos: Vincent Young & TVNZ
2012 is Garth Young’s 61st year in the music business. He is a world-class musician, who’s decades of work laid many foundations for the thriving and diverse business that the New Zealand entertainment industry has become.
I
nterviewing Garth is like opening a treasure trove of early New Zealand music and TV history. Some stories he asked me not to print due to, well shall we say, the parties involved. And let’s be honest, to write of everything we talked about would require a regular section in Escape Magazine dedicated to Garth Young’s life. However, let it be said that Garth has endless entertainment tales that would make one heck of a book! Talking with Garth is like time travelling to the beginning of the New Zealand pop music scene. Not only was Garth a major player on the live Wellington circuit, he was a pop star in his own right, outselling Elvis in New Zealand with one of his much loved piano records. He became a sought after and respected musical director for New Zealand’s early music shows including New Faces, a televised talent quest that saw a then young and aspiring musician by the name of Henry Puna win the show, as part of a Polynesian boy band called “ The Joyous Quartet”. Henry, in case you are wondering, then went on
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to win another quest in 2011 and is now the Prime Minister of the Cook Islands. For Garth, this glamorous and exciting life saw him working all the hours under the sun and moon, to bring world class entertainment to New Zealand audiences. But with all that at his musical fingertips, Garth Young packed up his family after 20 years as a leading force in the industry and headed not immediately to the Cook Islands, first there was a slight detour to Palmerston North. Apparently this was his chance to take it easy, something that as I talk with Garth I realise is not that simple. “I left a 120 hour working week as a TV Musical Director with an orchestra that had gone from 10 to 45 musicians. It was killing me!” he muses. 1975-79: The Young’s now own and run a small motel called ‘Alavista’ which they then sell to buy a restaurant called ‘The Loft’. Working hard, they transform that business into a hugely successful operation. This is where Garth’s culinary skills came to the forefront, but once again
it was long hours with little rest. “People would queue outside before we opened - it was crazy!” The decision was made to relocate one more time. This time to their much loved Rarotonga for a quieter life, well so they thought! “We had travelled throughout the Pacific and the Cook Islands was the Pacific destination we loved the most”. In 1980 Garth, Maurine and family arrived in Rarotonga. They bought ‘The Hacienda’ which we now know as ‘Cooks Corner’, turning that into another successful restaurant and bar, with Garth in the kitchen and Maurine working front of house. Garth relays many a hilarious story of New Zealand tourists coming into the restaurant and marvelling at how they had seen or met Garth Young. Maurine also points out, “they would come in and talk to him and completely ignore me!” They sold that business four years later. The year is now 1985 and Garth decides to buy an organ and bring it to Rarotonga. “A great big thing” he explains, “and soon
after that I was asked to play at The Rarotongan Resort” he laughs. “They insisted on coming up to my home to see if I could play it! Well anyway they liked what I did so the organ was moved to the Rarotongan Resort, big thing that is was. The kitchen staff hated it because they would have to shift it around from place to place”. It is here, that once again Garth comes across Henry Puna who was leading a big band at the Rarotongan Dining Room. Garth also quickly forms a relationship with Cook Islands music legend Jake Numanga, and as the big band era fades out Garth and Jake are the two musicians left playing at the resort, seven nights a week and brunch on Sundays.
In between gigs Garth builds his music studio at home and begins teaching music again. In 1986 Garth starts playing at Trader Jacks 3 nights a week, as well as playing other restaurants that have by now emerged on Rarotonga’s growing dining circuit. “I played at Oasis, where Teina Hosking the owner would cook a steak and then come out and sing”. Garth had a five year residency at Tamarind House Restaurant, as well as playing with many international artists at a variety of Rarotongan venues. Garth today plays at Windjammer Restaurant six nights a week excluding Tuesdays, where he sets an intimate atmosphere that has a little fun included with request cards - you can request any song and he will play it for you. Aroa
Beachside Inn is Garth’s Tuesday night gig. He describes that as a little louder as he plays to the mood of the outdoor beach bar. Garth Young is a master of his trade. The list of people he has played with throughout his career includes Eartha Kit, Bruno Lawrence, Beaver, Howard Morrison, Kiri Te Kanawa, Dame Malvina Major, Rob Guest, Kenny Rogers, Gene Pitney and many others. So I urge you, whilst on holiday in Rarotonga be sure you go and see him perform at one of his regular venues. Garth Young is New Zealand and Cook Islands music history and you can see him live here!
Pearl & Art Gallery
C O O K
I S L A N D S
B L A C K
P E A R L S
Simple Elegance & Timeless Beauty Local Art by: Judith KunzLe - Limited edition Prints • GLenn MiLLer - Contemporary Pacific • ALLAn tuArA - traditional Carving ESCAPE • 21
Located UPTOWN Avarua, Taputapuatea • ph (682) 22312 • www.moanagems.co.ck
what's in store
Rarotonga’s biggest range of hand carved souvenirs can be found at Island Craft in the main shopping area. Apart from the popular phallic demi-god Tangaroa in various sizes, you will find beautifully crafted artefact replicas.
Garden art figurines in many designs make an ideal gift and are available from Tivaevae Collectables. Price $45. See their advert on page 19.
To people of the Pacific the coconut palm is ‘the tree of life’, because every part of the palm helps them in some essential way. Used to enhance both health and beauty, Rito Cook Islands 100% virgin cold-pressed coconut oil is made in Rarotonga. The oil is used in soaps and a skin care range, but is also available pure. Rito is located on the main road in Tikioki, by phone on 75 951 or by email: info@ritocookislands.com
Magazin e of the Cook Islands
The Escape Magazine 2013 Calendar features the very best of Cook Islands images captured by our photographers during the past year. Each calendar is individually shrink-wrapped and has a stiffening board plus envelope for ease of mailing. From most stores and souvenir outlets on Rarotonga and Aitutaki. $14.95
Cook Is lands Ca lendar 2013
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These cute glass mokos (geckos) can be found at the Perfumes of Rarotonga shop, located right at the busstop in town. They are very reasonably priced and are available in a variety of sizes and colours.
The groovy sounds of Triggerfish are now available on CD. You will find it on sale at ‘The Café’ in the courtyard of the Beachcomber building. Get it while stocks last.
Novel, unique and appealing attractive, this deck of cards features 54 original art works by Cook Islands artist Joan Gragg. Joan’s art was influenced by everyday life in the Cook Islands. Available from the Beachcomber Gallery gift shop.
Pearl Jewellery
Pure Cook Island Pearls - Pendants, Rings Strands, Necklaces, Bracelets and more...
Traditional Shellcarving Pendants, Earrings, Necklaces, Lamps and more...
LEADERS IN COOK ISLANDS ARTS AND CRAFTS - SINCE 1943
Traditional Woodcarving
Pearl, shell, gold & silver fashion jewellery | Exclusive Souvenirs
War clubs, Spears, Staff gods, Bowls, Pates (drums) and more...
Extensive range of wood and shell carvings made by our own craftsmen
Visit our online store www.islandcraft.com
Ph: 22-009, Fax 22-031- Email: sales@islandcraft.co.ck
We are also Florists TELEFLORA Email: flowers@islandcraft.co.ck
Teleflora and Interflora agents
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Rarotonga a smorgasbord of South Pacific fun
There are few places in the world that equal this special emerald island in the Pacific - capital of the Cook Islands. A place where a visit is certain to capture the heart. And upon reluctant departure, will generously add to a lifetime of good memories.
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t
his is Rarotonga, named Tumutevarovaro by the first Polynesian settlers over a thousand years ago, who composed chants and songs in praise of her natural splendor. Those ancient Maori people who navigated the Pacific in their ocean voyaging doublehulled canoes would have relished her fertile abundance and delighted in her safe anchorages and plentiful water. The beauty of Rarotonga is still awesome. Especially when viewed from the air on an Air Rarotonga aircraft. Or, from beyond the reef aboard one of several deep sea fishing
boats available for charter, where you can behold the mountains rising majestically from the centre of the island, piercing blue skies and passing clouds. From these cloud mountains, the early Polynesian settlers believed Rongo, the goddess of the land lived and watched over them as they fished, planted and lived a simple, but rich life. There’s also a breathtaking view of Rarotonga from the ‘Needle” if you take the “cross island” walk which starts from Avatiu Valley. From this point you can see the necklace of white surf that forever
pounds the reef enclosing this volcanic island. The cross-island walk is best done with a guide and does require some effort, so being of average fitness will help as will sturdy footwear. Guided sightseeing walks and learning about the island’s flora and fauna can be booked through your hotel or travel agent. Less strenuous than going across the island is the informative scenic walk offered by guides of the Takitumu Conservation Area (TCA). Covering 380 acres, the TCA is home to the indigenous Kakerori, (Rarotongan Flycatcher). Once on the critically endangered list, this tiny bird is now thriving well, thanks to the efforts
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left: Muri lagoon below: Punanga Nui Marketplace
of environmentalists and the TCA group to save the bird from extinction. Rarotonga is lush and carpeted with plantations that yield year-round fruits and vegetables. The largest of the 15 Cook Islands, it is 32 km around its main coastal road. An inland road and various tracks will further reveal a palette of dazzling tropical colours equaled by few other places. Like other islands in the group, Rarotonga’s white beaches with sand as fine as powder stretch into clear blue lagoons around the island. Lagoons where children safely play are food cupboards for the local people, who live an unhurried lifestyle in a unique, unspoiled place in the Pacific.
Traditional Voyaging According to ancient mythology, Rarotonga was settled over a thousand years ago by Polynesians from an ancient land called Avaiki. They travelled in massive double-hulled ocean voyaging canoes, crisscrossing Te Moana Nui O Kiva (Pacific Ocean) in search of fertile, sheltered land. That traditional voyaging, navigating by the stars, has been revived in the Cook Islands and two traditional ocean going vaka built in the early 1990’s have notched up thousands of nautical miles, travelling as far as Hawaii, New Caledonia and New Zealand. The vaka, Te Au O Tonga and Takitumu can be viewed at Vaka Village in Avana, Ngatangiia. Avana channel is also the site where seven
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According to ancient mythology, Rarotonga was settled over a thousand years ago by Polynesians from an ancient land called Avaiki. They travelled in massive double-hulled ocean voyaging canoes, crisscrossing Te Moana Nui O Kiva (Pacific Ocean) in search of fertile, sheltered land.
canoes Takitumu, Kurahaupo, Tokomaru, Aotea, Tainui, Mataatua and Te Arawa, departed Rarotonga for New Zealand over 700 years ago. A circle of stones and plaques bearing the name of each canoe commemorates that great voyage.
Shopping The capital of Rarotonga is Avarua and many shops offer a wide selection of goods and souvenirs. Possibly the best souvenir of the Cook Islands is a black pearl from the northern islands of Manihiki or Penrhyn. The Cook Islands is the second biggest producer of black pearls in the world. Punanga Nui Marketplace on Saturday mornings is busy and colourful – stalls and small huts selling souvenirs, food and clothing. The market is the best place to
Harbour House, Avatiu phone: 20635 email: temu@mblackpearl.co.ck
P E A R L FA R M E R • R E TA I L E R • W H O L E S A L E R
Come in to view our extensive range of sarongs, island clothing, footwear and t-shirts. Rarotonga’s largest selection of souvenirs, crafts and gift ideas.
COOK ISLANDS
Mana Court, Avarua | Ph: 22325 Rarotongan Resort | Ph: 27325 Edgewater Resort | Ph: 28325 Pacific Village Muri | Ph: 21325 International quality & service. Located in Downtown Avarua, Pacific Resort Muri & Rarotonga Airport for all international flights. Fax: 21 702 | Email: rentacar@avis.co.ck For more information visit www.avis.co.ck
RESERVATIONS PH (682) 22 833
treasure@oyster.net.ck ESCAPE • 27
For the best scents on the beach - visit
Perfumes of Rarotonga Natural Local Oils, Soaps, Cosmetics, Perfumes, Liqueurs and other great souvenirs
Panama Factory Outlet tel: 25238 Cook’s Corner Boutique tel: 24238 www.perfumes.co.ck
buy a pareu (sarong) and handmade pearl shell jewellery, or to try some of the local delicacies. It is a lively meeting place for hundreds of locals each Saturday morning. There’s often a live show by dance teams, or a local string band.
parts of Rarotonga’s lagoon coastline and these areas generally offer the best snorkelling. Look for the Raui signs around the island, but please protect our marine environment – take nothing but memories and leave nothing but bubbles.
Water Sports
Because Rarotonga is surrounded by clear waters, the visibility when scuba diving is excellent. All dive operators offer lessons for beginners in the safety of the lagoon before venturing out over the reef. Both Koka Lagoon Cruises and Captain Tama’s Lagoon Cruizes operate from Muri Lagoon, next to Rarotonga Sailing Club, offering visitors lagoon tours in glass bottom boats with loads of fun exploring the lagoon plus swimming, snorkeling, sunbathing and a barbeque lunch. Outrigger canoeing teams train on Muri lagoon and at Avarua wharf. Watching the teams powering through the water in their six-man or single outrigger canoes is stirring. The annual canoeing festival, Te Vaka Eiva, is held every
With clear blue lagoons and a huge ocean at its doorstep, there is a good range of water sports to suit all ages. You can choose from skimming the lagoon on a windsurfer, kayaking, lagoon boat trips, scuba diving, deep-sea fishing, reef watching in a glass bottom ‘submarine’, or just swimming, snorkelling and sunbathing. One of the best spots to snorkel is in Tikioki opposite the Fruits of Rarotonga Café where Mama Puretu makes delicious smoothies from local fresh fruit. A raui, (a traditional ban on fishing and the gathering of seafood) protects the Tikioki lagoon, so it teems with fish and other marine life. Raui are also in place on other
Top Fashion Banana Court tel: 25060 28 • ESCAPE
left: Fields of PawPaw and magestic mountains below: Convict Surgeonfish, Aroa Lagoon Photo: The Dive Centre
November with teams from all over the Pacific travelling to Rarotonga to race.
Sports Cook Islanders love their sports, with rugby and netball the top favourites. More often than not, a local will play several different sports during the year and be good at all of them. Saturday sees keen inter-village rugby, netball, cricket, tennis, soccer and rugby league games, depending on the season. Spectators are welcome, as is participation in aftermatch socials at village clubhouses. Entry fee and drinks are cheap, the atmosphere is always lively, especially if teams are putting on a small show with lots of humour. The Rarotonga Bowling Club in town has matches most Saturdays and a bar to relax in after games. The Rarotonga Golf Club welcomes visitors to its 9-hole course at Black Rock and offers clubs and trundlers for hire.
Nightlife There’s always lots to do in the evenings. Island nights staged by local hotels feature buffets of local food cooked in an umu or earth oven. Entertainment is provided by one of the islands’ professional dance groups and you are guaranteed a vibrant, sensual show and drumming that’s recognised as the best in the world - see our Entertainment Guide for more information. Guided night tours
by bus to well-known establishments like the Banana Court, Trader Jacks and Whatever! Bar after the island show is also fun and there’s also the comfort of knowing one doesn’t have to drive home after several bar stops. Rarotonga has numerous excellent restaurants that serve tempting food from around the world. One could eat out every night of the week and still not experience
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Rarotonga has a three-cinema complex with air conditioning, a big screen and surround-sound in Cinema 3. A good selection of recent movies is shown. For those wanting a quiet night in, there are several local video and DVD outlets, all with a comprehensive selection of classics and latest releases. Some outlets also hire TV’s and DVD players.
Other things to do Whale watching is possible in Rarotonga during the months of August and September. The humpback whales come from Antarctica to the warmer waters of the Cook group to mate and calf. The Cook Islands exclusive economic zone has been formally declared a whale sanctuary. The Whale Centre in Nikao is an interesting place to visit, to find out more about these magnificent ocean creatures.
Sunset Vaima'anga Beach right: Mauke Dance Team at Te Maeva Nui Festival
all the great food that’s available. The Tamarind House Restaurant in Pue (just out of Avarua) is a beautifully converted colonial house that once belonged to the Union Steamship Company. Situated close to the beach, the Tamarind looks over the ocean and meals can be taken in the garden under the stars. See our cuisine section for the pick of Rarotonga restaurants. Takeaway meals also are available from outlets all around the island and excellent fish n’ chips are served up by the Flying Boat Grill located at the Cook Islands Game Fishing Club. Visitors are always welcome to join the locals at the club for a drink or a meal. The location of Aramoana Takeaways at Avatiu Wharf ensures that their fish is always freshly caught by local fishermen.
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Two libraries and museums just out of town are great for browsing. On the way to the “old library and museum” you’ll pass the Avarua Christian Church. The adjacent graveyard is interesting to wander through and of note is the bust of the late Albert Royale Henry, the first Cook Islands premier who was instrumental in guiding the country towards self-government in 1964.
Sunday After a busy Saturday night, relax on Sunday like the locals. Sunday is regarded as a day of worship and rest. A wonderful memory to take home is the singing in one of the islands’ Cook Islands Christian Churches. CICC coral limestone churches, hand built by the forefathers of Cook Islanders, are in every village and visitors are warmly welcomed to Sunday services. Morning tea is provided by the congregations.
Weddings Rarotonga has become a popular location for weddings and honeymoons. Wedding packages designed to suit each couples taste and budget are available from a number of operators on the island. The golden beach of uninhabited Koromiri islet in Muri lagoon is one of the most popular locations for weddings. Young coconut saplings planted by each newly wed couple line the beach and are testimony to the islet’s popularity.
Relax In the Cook Islands you’ll hear the phrase “island time” a lot. You are a long way from the hustle and bustle of the outside world, so…walk a little slower, savour every moment of your holiday in paradise and don’t worry about being a bit late for engagements. That is island time on Rarotonga.
14 New to fleet
Electric Bicycles
romantic sanctuary
Free Pick-up & Drop Off
fine dining 59
lunch from 10.30am tapa’s & cocktails from 4pm dinner from 6pm reservations recommended ph:24280 email:littlepoly@beach.co.ck www.littlepolynesian.com
Top 10 Hotels for Romance in the South Pacific
Cook Islands Leading Boutique Hotel
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island cuisine
SilverSands The Muri Beach Club Hotel recently celebrated the re-launching of their restaurant. SilverSands proudly offers its patrons a Polynesian Cuisine menu, the end product of many months of research into the delicious and unusual traditional dishes prepared by different islanddwelling nations within the South Pacific region. “SilverSands menu is more than simply a menu. It is a labour of love – intended to showcase our love of the fertile soil, the bountiful sea and the beautiful Pacific island people, with their multicultural backgrounds and ever optimistic and
generous spirit”, says Liana Scott, General Manager of the Muri Beach Club Hotel. After many requests from their international guests for authentic Polynesian cuisine and a successful 6 week trial of the various dishes, that had painstakingly been researched for the new concept, the “big plunge” was taken by opening the new SilverSands restaurant, with its Polynesian Cuisine menu entitled ‘A taste of Polynesia’.
Open 7 nights a week. Check for special theme - cuisine nights with live entertainment. tel: 23000
“SilverSands menu is more than simply a menu. It is a labour of love – intended to showcase our love of the fertile soil, the bountiful sea and the beautiful Pacific island people, with their multicultural backgrounds and ever optimistic and generous spirit”
Open Everyday Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner An authentic taste of Polynesia – dishes from around the Pacific PH: 23000 for reservations Located Absolute Beachfront Muri Beach Club Hotel
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Restaurant On the beachfrOnt at Muri LagOOn
OPen 7 DaYS 8am till late
Saltwater Café Sunday brunch is a perfect time to visit the Saltwater Cafe. The cafe is located on the south side of the island in Titikaveka, where some of Rarotonga’s more stunning beaches are located and exactly half way around the island. The cafe is a family run business, with owners Sue and Steve Welsh and their daughter Melissa moving from Australia to buy the business a year ago. The warmth and unobtrusive hospitality they show to customers is obvious from our first arrival. A verandah area holds most of the seating, with sea views and sea breezes, and there are a number of booth seats inside the cafe also. The menu covers a variety of cuisines, including Thai, Mexican, burgers, fish and chips and the standard breakfast fare.
(eke) being locally caught and cooked creole style with rice and salad. It was simply delicious with a rich curry sauce and tender pieces of eke. Also enjoyed was the steak sandwich with bacon - a triple decker sandwich with onion jam, lettuce and tomato that my companion ordered. We shared a bowl of tasty wedges with a mild chilli and mayo dip between us, and still had room for a piece of passionfruit cake with cream cheese icing. The cafe has a number of vegetarian options, and is licensed with a range of beers, wines and cocktails available. While they are not open for dinner, they are happy to take bookings for takeaways to be picked up before closing.
Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner Dinner Reservations Recommended Happy Hour Cocktails 4pm Mon - Sat Saturdays – Sailing Regatta Day Wireless Internet Available Beachfront Bar
WeDDIngS & PRIvAte FunCtIonS A SPeCIALty Consult with our Personal Wedding Planner. info@theweddingguys.co.ck dine@sailsrestaurant.co.ck
Monday to Thursday 9.30am to 2.30pm and Sunday 10am to 2.30pm tel: 20020
I started my meal with a well made flat white, and then chose the perhaps unusual option of octopus curry - the octopus
PHone • 27349 www.sailsrestaurant.co.ck www.theweddingguys.co.ck ESCAPE • 33
Les Palmiers Café & Grill Set in the successful Te Vara Nui Village complex in Muri, Les Palmiers Cafe and Grill has now officially become my favourite weekend brunch, lunch or afternoon tea venue! The café, located at the very front of the village so you can’t miss it, offers great indoor-outdoor dining set amongst the cleverly landscaped gardens and waterfalls.
The Boatshed Bar & Grill, Aitutaki You have to hand it to Allen Mills and wife Maria. Along with side-kick Steve Christian, this man of the sea has created an ideal café-style restaurant in one of the coolest places on the island. And I do mean “cool”, because on the sultry Aitutaki evening that we visited, the sea breeze wafting around this part of the island was more than welcome. The Boatshed Bar & Grill faces the ocean on the eastern tip of the main island, not far from Ootu Beach; and is the restaurant of the well-named Popoara Ocean Breeze Villas. It is decorated with an eclectic assortment of memorabilia, mostly of the marine variety. A ships wheel dominating the entrance is the visitor’s first encounter with a lifetime’s collection that includes many other fascinating items, such as old seagull motors, ships lamps, brass portholes and an interesting array of historic photographs. The boatshed has a laid-back, casual island atmosphere, but service and attention to detail is never compromised when dining. A simple lunch menu which is available all day includes a choice of salads, fish pie, a selection of deepfried seafood, beef stir-fry and toasted
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sandwiches. Reasonably priced from around $10 to $20. Over a glass of Sauvignon Blanc, the a-lacarte dinner menu provided a moment of hesitation - what to choose from such tempting offerings? I opted for the fish cakes served with a pineapple salsa and my partner the traditional island dish of raw marinated fish, ‘Ika Mata’. When done right this is sublime; at the Boatshed it did not disappoint. For mains, the Coconut Baked Prawns served with rice and oriental sauce were quite divine and my partner’s Honey and Whisky glazed Chicken Breast proved a big hit; as I managed to sneak a small portion whilst her attention was diverted, I can certainly vouch for the tenderness and flavour. The piece de resistance on the menu is undoubtedly the Island Seafood Platter for Two. In the Boatshed’s welcoming marine ambience and with a nice bottle of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, this could be the perfect dish to celebrate a romantic holiday in paradise.
Open every day for lunch or dinner, or stop by for a cocktail or two. tel: 31479
The menu is a well planned selection of salads, crepes - savoury and sweet, meat and fish skewers and sweet treats such as waffles and gelatos. On a recent visit we started with the ‘Village Detox’ smoothie, which I now classify as the best original smoothie on the island. It is a brilliant combination of mint, mango, ginger, yoghurt, and a touch of cream; simply delicious and just one of a clever and inventive range of mocktails, smoothies and cocktails on offer. I order a Caesar salad and the fish skewers as my main, with aioli and potato wedges. My partner goes for the Les Palmiers steak noodle salad with peanut and sesame dressing, to accompany his calzone crepe, which is filled with a creamy mixture of chicken, olives, tomato concasse and mayo. Beautifully sized portions quickly arrive at our table and we soon discover that salads alone would have been sufficient as a main. The Caesar was perfectly put together and traditional in composition and flavours. The steak noodle salad was worthy of a food magazine shoot, with the meat done to perfection on a base of mildly spiced noodles and coleslaw. The Les Palmiers crepes are delicious, freshly made, light and filled with local produce. The flavours and combinations such as the calzone, and the popular fresh tuna melt or Americano, are laid out in one large crepe accompanied with its own garden salad. My fish skewers were lightly grilled with an assortment of fresh garden
vegetables such as peppers, eggplant and red onions. Just right; light and full of the natural flavours of the food. Can it get any better you ask? Well yes it can. We sampled their freshly homemade gelatos that are to die for. Mango passion, coconut and grilled pineapple, banana, pawpaw, strawberry and even Nutella, peanut butter, or my favourite, mocha. These gelatos have me returning regularly and combined with a waffle from the menu, or a sweet crepe (go for the grilled pineapple and coconut custard which is amazing) it really is a delicious experience. Both of us agreed the style at Le Palmiers is balanced with clean flavours that offer you something new and we loved it.
Monday to Saturday for breakfast and lunch. Monday, Wednesday and Friday for dinner. tel: 24006
c i t n e h t u A an Cu isine As i
A TA S T E O F A S I A
Air-conditioned private room for dining & meetings (with conference facilities) A short stroll east of town Ph: 28830 or Email: bamboojacks@gmail.com
try our
Pizza Shack eat in or take out
NUMBER ONE FOR SEAFOOD PH 26464 • info@traderjacks.co.ck Wheelchair access available
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TAMARIND HOUSE RESTAURANT & BAR
Tamarind house is a beautiful heritage colonial house, located on the seafront, just 3 minutes from the town centre. Come and enjoy morning coffee or lunch overlooking palm-shaded lawns and the ocean. Dine with piano by candlelight in the peaceful seclusion of a romantic tropical setting. Experience a feeling of nostalgia for a bygone era in our unique and beautiful century-old colonial home. the peRfect venue foR youR wedding oR pRivate function
Tamarind House Restaurant It is always a delight to dine at Tamarind House. I had lunch there on one of those perfect Rarotongan days; from my seat in the open verandah area the sun sparkled against the deep blue water of the lagoon, and a vaka made its way across the ocean outside of the reef. During the winter months it is also one of the best spots for whale watching. Tamarind House itself, is a colonial building that was a private residence in its former life. Sue Carruthers and Robert Brown bought the lease nearly 10 years ago and lovingly restored the building as a restaurant, serving modern food with Pacific ingredients.
LUNCH - MONDAY TO FRIDAY DINNER - MONDAY TO SATURDAY
ReseRvations aRe Recommended email tamarind@cookislands.co.ck weB www.tamarind.co.ck
PHONE 26487 36 • ESCAPE
The restaurant has a loyal following of local patrons and is also very popular with tourists, simply because the setting is gorgeous and the food is consistently great. The menu is large and almost every dish features local ingredients, from the breadfruit chips to the lasagne made with rukau to ika mata. They also offer an excellent value two course lunch meal for $21.50.
After much indecision I chose the Nicoise salad with fresh seared tuna, olives, potato, boiled egg and anchovies on the side, for my lunch. The salad was delicious with two large pieces of perfectly cooked tuna and very fresh salad. My companion chose the Catch of the Day – grilled sword fish with rukau, smoked salmon mash and a lemon hollandaise sauce with salad, which he was very happy with. We shared a tasty piece of moist tropical lemon cake for dessert that was served with a lemon curd sauce and icecream. A glass of chilled white wine, chosen from their extensive wine list of mostly New Zealand wines, and lunch was complete. Tamarind House serves a number of gluten free and vegetarian meals, and specialises in functions such as weddings.
Monday to Friday: Morning coffee from 10am. Lunch from 11.30am to 2.30 pm. Dinner from 6pm. Saturday: Dinner from 6pm. tel: 26487
Sunsertbecue’s aeachside Inn B ro’a B
Beachfront Mini Resort On the western leeward side of Rarotonga
at A
Seafood | Kati Kati | Great local food & cocktails with live local entertainment twice a week. Pub meals also available Reservations required
Phone 22166
www.aroabeach.com
• Open 7 nights for dinner from 6pm • Gluten free, vegetarian & children catered for • Fully licensed • Live music some nights • Reservations appreciated • Free transfers by arrangement Kevin, Cathy & staff welcome you Phone: 26860 Email: kikauhut@oyster.net.ck Situated on the main road at Arorangi (500 mtrs from Edgewater Resort – towards town)
ESCAPE • 37
local recipe
RARE SESAME CRUSTED TUNA over udon noodles, with miso and shitake mushrooms | Serves 4 Our special thanks to owner and chef Tony Bullivant of The Sands Restaurant & Bar for providing this easy to prepare recipe. Its wonderful Asian flavours and good looks are sure to impress your dinner guests. The Sands Restaurant & Bar - location Titikaveka Open 7 days for breakfast and dinner tel: 27189 | email: rarosands@gmail.com
STEP 1: Miso and Udon Broth Ingredients 1 large spring onion 1 carrot 1 courgette
Method Boil miso paste in water and set aside Boil noodles in salted water until cooked, refresh and set aside. Soak and boil shitake mushrooms until tender and set aside. Shred all vegetables into strips and slice button mushrooms.
STEP 2:
4 button mushrooms
Sesame Tuna
1 270g pkt of organic udon noodles 1 tablespoon crushed garlic 1 tablespoon crushed ginger Miso paste or granules to yield 1 litre of soup
38 • ESCAPE
To cook and serve Ingredients 2 tablespoons of sesame oil ½ cup of chopped coriander Touch of Kikkoman soy
1 stick of celery 1 pkt (40g) of dried shitake mushrooms
STEP 3:
Ingredients 4 x 200g fresh tuna steaks or fillets (yellow-fin or big-eye) 1½ cups of toasted sesame seeds Method Coat the tuna steaks in toasted sesame seeds and refrigerate until required
Salt and pepper Method Place a frying pan large enough to hold the 4 tuna steaks over a high heat and add the sesame oil. When the pan is almost smoking hot, add the sesame coated tuna and sear on each side for approx 30 to 40 seconds. The tuna should be rare. Once cooked, remove from the pan and set aside.
“ Where meals and memories are made...”
Relax and enjoy your Breakfast, Lunch, a cup of espresso coffee, an icy cold beer or your favourite drink while gazing out to the beautiful lagoon. We serve real authentic Thai food, tasty Mexican, burgers, fish and chips, home-made desserts and much more…
On the waterfront at Avana Harbour. Fresh off the boat!
Mince Pork Salad
Opening Hours Mon. – Thu. 9:30am – 2:30pm Sunday 10:00am – 2:30pm
The freshest sandwiches & salads on the rock!
Tel.(+682)20020
Mon to Fri: 9.30 to 3.30 Sun: 12.00 to 4.00 Sat: Closed
Down south in Titikaveka S ALTWATER CAFE - R AROTONGA
Tropical Garden Restaurant and Bar Drain excess oil from the pan and add the crushed ginger and crushed garlic. Add the vegetables and mushrooms. Cook for a further 40 seconds. Add the miso mix, Kikkoman soy and udon noodles. Bring to the boil and taste for seasoning. Arrange the noodle and miso mix evenly in 4 bowls. Cut the tuna steak in half and place on top of the noodles, showing the red colour of the tuna. Top with coriander and serve.
You’ll find us in a unique island setting in Arorangi, just 70 metres from Edgewater Resort. Open 7 nights from 6pm. Taste and feel what the islands are all about in a casual dining atmosphere! • • • •
full a-la-carte menu fresh fish and quality steaks vegetarian and children’s dishes incredible seafood platter for two
ed
reservations recommend
ph 20501
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local recipe
PAN SEARED GAME FISH with King Prawn & Kumara, Coppa ham & Red Wine Butter Sauce For a very special gourmet dinner inspired by the local produce of the Cook Islands, look no further than this mouth watering recipe provided courtesy of the Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa’s Bounty Brasserie, named after the HMS Bounty. Under the unforgiving command of Captain William Bligh, the crew of the Bounty were the first Europeans to set eyes upon Aitutaki – and one can only assume that this created a deep longing to remain forever in the South Pacific, because they staged the infamous Mutiny on the Bounty just 17 days later! As one sits today and dines with ones toes in the sand, at either the Bounty Brasserie, or the resort’s Flying Boat Beach Bar & Grill, gazing out upon the peaceful turquoise lagoon, one can easily appreciate the crew’s desire to continue partaking of the delights of the South Seas for as long as possible.
Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa. tel: 31203 www.AitutakiLagoonResort.com
Ingredients: 1 piece Gamefish (180g) such as Mahimahi, Wahoo, Snapper, Blue eye Trevally 200ml of Pinot Noir or other red wine 3 King Prawns 1 round of Coppa dry cured ham or proscuitto 1 Purple Kumara (golden is fine) Chives 2 Potatoes (chat are best) Butter (to taste) Sprig of Thyme
With the remaining red wine, pour yourself a large glass to enjoy whilst preparing your gourmet dinner! Place baking paper on a tray and lay 1 thinly sliced round of Coppa ham on top. Lay another piece of baking paper on top and weigh down with a second tray to keep the Coppa flat. Bake in the preheated oven at 15 degrees C until crispy (about 20 min). Remove the top tray and paper to cool and harden.
1 Bay leaf 1 clove Garlic 1 large Golden Eschallot 1 Lime 1 tablespoon Mayonnaise Salt & pepper Baking paper Method: Reduce 200ml of red wine, a sprig of thyme, one bay leaf, a garlic clove and the eschallot in a pot to one third of its original volume. Once reduced, strain and place to one side.
40 • ESCAPE
King Prawn & Kumara Colcannon Place one purple kumara and two potatoes into a pot of lightly salted water until tender. Drain and allow to cool, then peel and dice into small even cubes. Peel and devein three king prawns then cook in a hot pan with a little butter, salt and pepper. Once cooked allow to cool and cut into cubes roughly the same size as the potatoes.
Mix the diced potato, kumara and prawn in a bowl with a tablespoon of mayonnaise, a splash of lime juice to taste and a sprinkling of finely chopped chives. Season with salt and pepper. Gamefish Cook the local gamefish fillet on a high heat in a pan with a little butter, salt and pepper. The fillet will be done when seared on each side yet still moist in the middle (about 8 minutes). Red Wine Butter Sauce (Beurre Rouge) Take the wine reduction set aside earlier, pour into a pan and warm over a low heat. Whisk in one small piece of cold butter at a time until colour has lightened and the sauce has thickened to a runny cream consistency. Ensure the temperature remains even and low throughout as otherwise the sauce can spoil. To Serve Arrange king prawn & kumara colcannon mixture on a plate in a circular mound, lay the gamefish on top and then the Coppa ham. Season with salt and pepper then drizzle the Beurre Rouge around the plate.
offee C t a e r G ervice S t a e r G ensed c i L y l l Fu
Dine in our indoor covered restaurant overlooking Te Vara Nui’s beautiful tropical waterfall rock garden and large pond, or relax outside on our deck. We have a lovely selection of homemade Gelatos, Waffles, savory and sweet Crepes, Grilled Skewers, all day Breakfast and a fantastic selection of other dishes. Have lunch or join us for great Coffees, Smoothies and Cocktails. WiFi available...
Creative cuisine at affordable prices. The best wood-fired pizzas & bread in the Pacific. Salsa catering (in-house or out-catering).
Breakfast Brunch & Lunch Mon to Sat from 7.30am --Dinner Thur | Fri from 6pm (Seasonal)
Located Muri Beach
Phone 24006
--Live entertainment Friday evening
Phone: 22215
---
café@salsa.co.ck www.salsa.co.ck
In the centre of town
POlynesian RestauRant & BaR “The Sands... finest, freshest and memorable... bringing great food and people together”
Open 7 days for breakfast & dinner with specials menu also available. Enjoy happy hour and daily cocktail specials... enjoy a cocktail on the beach. Cook Islands catering specialists. Located at Moana Sands Hotel Titikaveka Beach p: (682) 27189 | rarosands@gmail.com www.rarosands.com
the little Restaurant with the Big Reputation!
Indoor & Outdoor Dining in an Authentic Island Setting Extensive Menu with a Touch of Tropical Flavours Weddings, Birthdays, Special Occasions Licensed Bar | Open 7 Nights a week from 6pm | Transfers Available Situated right on the beach in Vaimaanga! Reservations Recommended.
Ph 26123 | www.vaimarestaurant.com
ESCAPE • 41
42 • ESCAPE
te itiki
Mitiaro
Experience
story: Rachel Reeves photos: Noel Bartley
l
eading me down an unkempt footpath, Mama Ake Teau walks deftly, scampering in sandals over jagged coral and through thorny bramble. She pauses, reaches into a thick bush, and pulls two homemade fishing rods of sturdy ironwood and knotted line from their hiding places. Slinging them over her shoulder, she presses on until the brush opens into a secluded beach and we’re standing in a smallish cave sheltering a patch of white sand. The tide is coming in. The sea is clear, the water catching and reflecting the rays of a hot sun in a shimmering canvas of sequins. Mama Ake squints into the sky as she pierces bits of yesterday’s catch with rusty hooks, then bows her head in prayer. “In my language,” she says to me with unnecessary apology. She asks God to bless her with a hearty catch, then lifts her head and breaks into a smile, and wades in her long skirt into deeper waters. “I hope that man,” she says, pointing to heaven, “will give us the fish today!” It’s just another day at the office for Mama Ake, who catches her own fish, collects her own seafood from the reef, and picks and plaits maire for export to Hawai’i. She is one of Mitiaro’s 170-odd residents, who live primarily off the land and plan their days around food, family and faith. The island’s connection to the Cook Islands’ primary industry – tourism –
(Mama Ake) is one of Mitiaro’s 170-odd residents, who live primarily off the land and plan their days around food, family and faith.
ESCAPE • 43
Previous page: CICC Church Clockwise from top: Vai Nauri Cave Pool; Leaping into Vai Tamaroa Pool; Reef Fishing with Mama Ake Teau; Preparing an Umu; Sunset at Mitiaro Harbour.
44 • ESCAPE
has always been untenable. People can count on one hand the number of tourists who visit annually, and can remember their faces and recite their nationalities. Most of Mitiaro’s population works on a rotational, week-on-week-off basis for the government, and 38 mamas work for half the year picking maire for a profit. Remittances from relatives overseas comprise a large portion of the island’s cash income. But the dynamics might be changing, as Mitiaro tries its hand at milking the Cook Islands’ economic cash cow. The island has something distinctly Mitiaro to offer tourists – its culture and its lifestyle. Calling it the ‘Itiki Experience’, Cook Islands Tourism Corporation is promoting a homestay programme on Mitiaro, giving visitors the opportunity to live, eat and work with the locals. It’s Mitiaro’s chance to tap into the increasingly trendy business of cultural
Kids run, barefoot and unattended, to the water’s edge, splashing each other in the waning light. Time is inconsequential. When I visit, mornings begin with a hearty breakfast and evenings end on the beach at sunset, but the rest is unscheduled. When I take a break from my free time to enjoy some free time, I set out on foot to chat with whoever’s willing. It turns out to be a prolonged pursuit. Everyone wants to talk. People want to talk about how times are changing, but they also want to talk about how the fabric of the Mitiaro culture is still intact. They want to talk about how they’re comfortable living without the trappings of modern life. Sometimes Mitiaro goes months without a cargo ship. Both its shops run out of staples like rice and bread, and when the diesel supply dwindles the power cuts
Life ambles along at a pace that permits people on motorbikes to shake hands with oncoming traffic. It’s picturesque Polynesia – purposeful piglets scuttling across the road, coconut palms reaching high into a seamless blue sky, flower-studded bushes wafting saccharine into the humid air. tourism. In a globalising world, as concrete claims more space, tourists are combing the earth for pockets of perfect paradise. Mitiaro is one of them. Life ambles along at a pace that permits people on motorbikes to shake hands with oncoming traffic. It’s picturesque Polynesia – purposeful piglets scuttling across the road, coconut palms reaching high into a seamless blue sky, flowerstudded bushes wafting saccharine into the humid air. People sit idly at the harbour in the evening to watch as the sun sets and motored canoes haul in the day’s catch.
at night. But people don’t really seem to mind. “If no boat comes we’re alright. We just go without papa’a (foreign) food. We’ve got our local food,” says one of the island’s three chiefs, Temaeu O Te Rangi Ariki, affectionately ‘Aunty Mii’ or ‘Aunty’. Generally men fish, feed the pigs and plant crops like taro, kumara, maniota and pumpkin, and women gather fresh seafood from the reef, prepare the umu (underground oven) and do the cooking. “Why do we need a job to survive? We can plant or go out and fish,” Aunty’s neighbour Inangaro Taia says.
ESCAPE • 45
The island is an oasis of the olden days, a breath of fresh air in a world of plastic and packaging and planners and pollution. Its spirit of hospitality is quintessentially Polynesian. Dozens of people are waiting for us when we disembark the plane, we are garlanded with layers of ei and ei katu, kissed by countless aunties and offered lifts by half a dozen people who are “going that way”. (Incidentally, they’re all going that way.) Fresh nu (young coconuts) speared with straws await us at our open-doored hut, and we’re promptly invited to lunch on our host’s patio – a gorgeous spread of freshly-caught fish, pumpkin, sliced pawpaw, taro, roast chicken, coconut meat and spongy uto. We devour it with our hands, and when we’re heavily gorged we pass a bucket of soapy water around the table for washing fingers and faces. Each of our days on Mitiaro is a blank slate. We can explore as we please, but we’re also welcome to spend time with our hosts. In the four days we’re on the island, we ride archaic motorbikes through the island’s interior, jerking over a pockmarked road through vast swamps and sun-
46 • ESCAPE
pierced toa forests. We hike across the makatea to Vai Tamaroa, a secluded swimming hole encircled by cliffs. The sun pours into the clear water metres below, we say a prayer as per local custom, and the Mitiaro countdown is on – tai, rua, toru, bombs away. We shiver in Vai Marere, a sulphur-infused pool sheltered by a cave. Locals tell us the water here is healing, capable of curing everything from cuts to conjunctivitis, so we stay in until our fingers are pruny. Our eyes widen at the sparkling, stately stalactites of Vai Nauri, which point their dripping fingers at a quiet pool below. We jump in, and duck into a low cave, a dark sanctuary with acoustic walls, the space between the ceiling and the clear water just big enough for our heads. We sip wine on the bank of a sprawling freshwater lake in the evening as the sun dips low, dunking our toes into the aquatic abode of the itiki – the eel, a Mitiaro delicacy. We well up at the soulful a capella performance of churchgoers at the Sunday service, their powerful harmonies travelling heavenward. We are privileged to observe the biggest food exchange of the year, the akaoki’anga kaka, which
Top left: Te itiki Homestay at Te Mekameka Above: Sandy coves on the South Coast Opposite page top: Tungane ‘Aunty Nane’ Pokoati Hodson Opposite page bottom: Mama Ake Teau, picking maire Next page: Relaxing at Lake Roto Nui
marks the end of cyclone season. It is the ceremonial lifting of a restriction on loud and boisterous activity – sport, dance, construction – which the people believe will earn them God’s blessing and shelter them from the storm. Papa Neke Tutini tells me he was 12 the last time a cyclone inflicted major damage on Mitiaro. I do a quick mental calculation – his estimated age minus 12 – and conclude that God is probably listening to the Mitiaro people.
There are no friendlier people than the Polynesians. A flair for hospitality is hereditary, and like all Cook Islanders the Mitiaro people are biologically equipped to host visitors. “We show respect and the Lord looks at us and knows that,” says Tungane ‘Aunty Nane’ Pokoati Hodson. “He created the wind and the rain – He’s the creator and they’re His servants. We show respect so He takes them to the ocean and doesn’t bring them to our island.” Mitiaro chief Travel Tou Ariki believes that the tradition of imposing a tapu during the cyclone season has – literally – sheltered the island from the storm. “During this time there’s not much to do – no big events, no infrastructure work on the island. Everything stops because of respect. To me it works for the island, it really works,” he says, adding that his island “has been blessed”. Every April, the people give thanks to God for bringing them through the cyclone season alive – Polynesian style, with mounds of food. For weeks people prepare for the feast – the week prior, some government workers even take leave without pay – squeezing grated coconut for cream, fishing for tuna, baking taro in the umu. Their food offerings are divvied up and re-distributed to ensure everyone receives an equal share. And then they eat, and we are of course invited to join. There are no friendlier people than the Polynesians. A flair for hospitality is hereditary, and like all Cook Islanders the Mitiaro people are biologically equipped to host visitors. Now it’s just a matter of building up the island’s tourism infrastructure. So far three families have built kikau huts to accommodate tourists seeking a ‘homestay’ experience. Each is in a somewhat different environment – one on the beach, one surrounded by foliage and maire
plants, and one in a carefully-tended garden of local flora, banana and papaya trees. Tourism is fodder for new niche industries to sprout. Mamas can sell their rito hats and baskets and floral tivaivai, families with a ute can offer airport transfer services, landowners can offer tours to some of the island’s stalactite-studded caves and watering holes. A willingness to spread the wealth is built into the Polynesian culture, and nowhere is that more evident than Mitiaro. Life in Mitiaro is not lived individually. People are responsible for and accountable to other people – women discipline other people’s children for making noise at church, babies travel from one lap to another, young men offer to mow widows’ lawns. ‘Aunty Nane’ is a certified justice of the peace but has never convened a session of the court, as disputes are always resolved in the traditional way – at a meeting of villages that follows all three of the Sunday church services (6am, 9am, and 3pm). There, people recap the week and air their grievances (“He cut my bananas” or “His goat ate my maniota” or “I left my spade at the taro patch and it’s gone”). There are explanations and apologies. There is resolution. Anything caught, planted, harvested, collected or killed is shared. Aunty Nane doesn’t have a taro patch of her own, but if she’s out of taro, the solution is quite simple. “I just go and ask someone for some,” she tells me, her expression dismissing my question as ridiculous. When word gets out that someone’s made the first tuna catch of the season, people turn up to the harbour (a crumbling
slipway) with sacks and bags, ready to cart their share home. Same goes for the maroro (flying fish) season. The island’s pastor and its chiefs get the first share, but the rest of the catch is cut up and doled out amongst those waiting at the harbour. “We make sure everybody has maroro,” titleholder Julian Aupuni says. “When it’s the first catch no one is allowed to sell it.” The playing field is level – everyone gives and everyone gets – but the greatest respect is awarded to the island’s resident minister and its ui ariki, or traditional chiefs. Most Saturdays people spend
ESCAPE • 47
preparing food for the orometua, or Cook Islands Christian Church pastor, and for their chiefs. “Everyone respects the ui ariki – we always refer back to the ui ariki,” Aupuni says. “We respect all of them, even those who have passed away.” Today there are three ariki to represent each tribe. Mitiaro is one of three Cook Islands without a Western-style land court, and the chiefs’ word goes. “It works,” Aunty Mii tells me, adding that since inheriting the title 25 years before, she’s only been called to settle four or five disputes. “It was our ancestors’ way and it works.” Mitiaro is resilient, clinging tightly to its traditions even as it opens its door to the world. Most people are content and happy to be home, but their smiles mask a starker reality – people are leaving for brighter lights and bigger cities. Aunty Mii offers no explanation for the population decline. She thinks for a minute, then leans closer and drops her voice to a whisper. “I think they want this thing,” she says, forming the shape of a coin with her finger and thumb. I hope the home-stay programme will bring more of that thing to Mitiaro. Smothered in ei and kisses upon my departure, I leave carrying bags of fresh limes, a woven fan, a whole tuna and a container full of the fermented seafood delicacy mitiore. As we taxi down the pitted coral runway, I send up a prayer for the ‘Itiki Experience’, not only because it’s Mitiaro custom to pray before travel, but because I am moved by the generosity, the quiet strength and the stamina of these people, and that’s something I want other tourists to see for themselves.
fact file: Mitiaro is a 45 minute flight north-east from Rarotonga. Book through Air Rarotonga Travel Centre tel (682) 22888 | www.airraro.com Enquiries or bookings for Te Itiki Experience, together with flights to Mitiaro can be made through Cook Island Tours: tel (682) 20639 or email: reservation@cookislandtours.co.ck For motor scooter hire on Mitiaro contact: Song’s Rentals tel (682) 36148
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Island Escape Over thirty years ago an Air New Zealand DC10 arrived in Rarotonga, carrying a youthful Australian family on the adventure of a lifetime. Disenchanted with the duties of a suburban housewife and
As fate would have it, during the 1980's a new industry was
never seeing a husband that typically worked 12-16 hour
born on the Island of Manihiki. Black Pearls.
shifts as an electrical engineer, my mother rebelled and escaped to the little known Islands of the South Pacific with a friend & mentor. Having visited Lord Howe and Norfolk Islands, the duo arrived in Rarotonga. The effect was immediate and my mother realised that she had found our new home. Shortly thereafter and much to the chargrin of friends and neighbours, the Bergmans abandoned the suburbs of Melbourne for an unheard of future, on an unknown island. Since that time, my family has built a company specialising in Cook Islands Pearls. Relocating to the northern group Island of Penrhyn for 5 years in 1976, my parents collected natural pearls for European and Asian markets.
Our family business naturally evolved to include these beautiful gems and became the first local company to specialise in Black Pearl Jewellery. Today we operate four shops on two islands and our specialty remains Cook Islands Pearls. On the occasion of our 35th anniversary, I warmly welcome you to our Cook Islands Black Pearl Jewellery Stores to experience a part of our continuing family adventure. And I take this opportunity to bid you Kia Orana and welcome to my adopted home. My name is Ben Bergman, Pearl Jewellery Designer & Director of Bergman & Sons, Black Pearl Jewellers of the Cook Islands. Kia Manuia.
Cooks Corner RAROTONGA Pacific Resort AITUTAKI p +682 21 902 e lukeb@oyster.net.ck w www.bergmanandsons.com
50 • ESCAPE
love whales For the
of
story: Rachel Reeves
A glimpse into the life of Nan Hauser, world renowned whale researcher and caretaker of the Cook Islands whale sanctuary; the first in the South Pacific.
t
he first whale sighting of the season is a bit of a ceremonial affair at Nan Hauser’s house. The phone rings. “Whale Research,” Nan answers. The caller reports a whale off the coast of Rarotonga. And it begins – a frenzy of boat-loading, research-assistant-rallying, gear-prepping, order-barking. The call marks the end of an off-season spent writing scientific papers, tutoring marine biology students, lecturing at universities around the world and crunching data.
she’s serious about her research and demands focus from her team. “You can’t take a day off because the whales don’t take a day off. For four months you’re on the water all the time – you’ve got to be; otherwise your data set is incomplete. The payback is the whales,” Nan said, crinkling her face into a smile. “There’s nothing better than being next to whales from morning to night. For me, the most meaningful part of my life is exchanging an eye-to-eye glance with a whale.”
Enter whale season, which for Nan and her team means four months of eight-hour days on the water collecting samples, recording whale songs and trying to understand the biggest, friendliest beasts in the sea.
From July to October, Nan spends every day with the whales. She has spent years fighting with science – against laws, tactless whale-watching boats and, above all, whalers. This marks her fifteenth year studying the whales that visit the Cook Islands to date, mate and give birth before continuing westward.
Her assistants report that a day on the water with Nan is far from leisurely. They affectionately refer to her as the ‘whale witch’, adding by way of explanation that
Ocean Alliance in the US sent Nan to Palmerston Island in 1998. She was tasked
ESCAPE • 51
with conducting research, but also with wielding whatever political influence she could. “The Japanese whalers were lobbying small island nations across Oceania and as far as central Africa to vote pro-whaling,” she said. “They’d pay for a delegate’s airfare, hotel and membership to the International Whaling Commission – and all the delegate had to do was raise their hand.” So she set out to convince Cook Islanders to ‘take ownership of their whales’ and launched a campaign that landed her on the steps of Parliament House, armed with a proposal to establish the first-ever whale sanctuary in the South Pacific. The petite blond boldly made her case, and in 2001 Parliament signed the bill into existence. With the stroke of a pen, the Cook Islands had deigned its entire exclusive economic zone a whale sanctuary – the first in the South Pacific. Later, when French Polynesia, Niue and New Caledonia legislated their own whale sanctuaries, their governments consulted Nan for advice. In the years that followed, Nan’s whale campaign in the Cook Islands “got so much bigger and better”, she says. “We’ve discovered things we never imagined we would. That’s why I’m still here and I have no plans to go anywhere.” Neither did she imagine falling in love with Rarotonga and its people – their Polynesian generosity and communal spirit – or discovering an unlikely tie to the island in the form of a crumbling headstone. Nan, who comes from a Swiss-German family on a Quaker wildlife preserve in Pennsylvania, stumbled upon the grave of her own ancestor Mary Ann Sherman, a female whaler from Massachusetts who was buried on Rarotonga in 1850. It was a coincidence Nan couldn’t ignore. Here were two blood-related women who had
52 • ESCAPE
chased the same creatures to the same part of the South Pacific – but for two very different reasons. Nan travelled to the Cook Islands to save the whales, Mary Ann to slaughter them. Learning about Mary Ann renewed Nan’s sense of purpose and reaffirmed her commitment to righting the wrongs inflicted on the world’s whales. For the ‘whale lady’, protecting the creatures of the sea is a labour of love. It’s a big job, and an unpaid one – but she wouldn’t trade it for all the money in the world. “I do this because I love it and I’ll do it for the rest of my life,” she said. “Sometimes the most important jobs are the unpaid ones. I’m on a mission that I would never give up.” Nan pools her research with that of a team of scientists spread around the region.
Collectively their mission is to put the puzzle pieces together. “If we scream and shout and jump up and down it’s headbutting and makes the Japanese angrier. It’s anger meeting anger and nothing gets done, but by using really good science we can fight the battle,” she says. “We need to work together.”
Clockwise from above: Nan recording a whale being tagged; a whale playing close to Rarotonga's shore; Inside the Whale & Wildlife Centre; Nan Hauser; Whale & Wildlife Centre, Rarotonga.
Last year Nan co-authored a paper full of groundbreaking research about whale migration in the South Pacific. The whales were maintaining constant course tracks for over 200 kilometres and several days, indicating remarkable navigational precision. In spite of currents and weather, the whales were following well-worn tracks with a margin of error of less than one degree. Another of Nan’s pet areas of study is acoustics, or the noises male humpbacks make when they’re suspended upside-
ESCAPE • 53
One click & you’re here...
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down and motionless. The songs comprise four or five phrases and last between 16 and 20 minutes, and males sing them in competition with other males for female attention. They’re usually heard on mating grounds. Nan and her collaborators have learned that songs and phrases travel in a singular direction across the Pacific, like ‘cultural ripples’ that pass from whales in the west to their brothers in the east. She hasn’t been able to explain the eastward movement of the songs, but theorises that it means whales across the region share migratory data.
of Rarotonga’s willingness to support her project. “It’s mostly the fishermen calling because they’re out there, but it’s not just some of them – it’s all of them, even the long liners.”
Nan says analysing acoustics is her favourite part of studying whales. “I excitedly drop the hydrophone and hear the new song of the season,” she said, playing some of the digitally-recorded squeaks and coos stored in her laptop.
But the most exciting discovery of last season wasn’t even a whale – it was a four-metre, 45kg Haliphron atlanticus - a giant octopus, in near-perfect condition. Right away Nan’s team hauled the slippery mass on board and stuffed it into a
Last year a local fisherman called her to report a ‘whale with a real ugly head bobbing at the surface’. Nearly all white, its head covered with callosities, it sounded to Nan like a Wright whale, incredibly rare in this part of the South Pacific. Some sightings are less pleasant – last year a fisherman reported seeing a whale caught up in fishing line.
... playing some of the digitally-recorded squeaks and coos stored in her laptop. “But the big question is why? What are they saying?” Every season the song is different, and each year Hauser expects surprises. “But the big question is why? What are they saying?” Every season the song is different, and each year Hauser expects surprises. New whales visit the Cook Islands every year – just two of the whales Nan has photo-identified have come back. From July to October the whales are always the talk of the town. Some days Nan gets five calls from people reporting a sighting. “We couldn’t do it if it weren’t a community effort,” Nan says
cooler. Nan spent a sleepless night calling specialists from around the world, unable to contain her enthusiasm. Just two other specimens have been found in the South Pacific – the first, which measured in at 2.9 metres, was picked up off the coast of New Zealand in 2004. The second was discovered by Rarotonga fisherman Pupuke Robati, but it was only a partial specimen. Last year’s octopus was whole, and is sitting in a freezer awaiting a team of National Geographic journalists.
Re-building the Cook Islands Whale and Wildlife Centre last year was another big step for Nan and her cohorts Cheryl and Hew John. In July Nan cut a fluke-shaped chocolate cake to mark the re-opening of the modest building, painted with a sprawling whale mural and chock-full of marine life, informative posters, books, specimens, research samples and real whale parts. Just $12 ($6 for kids, and locals are half price), and you’ll get the whole whale of an experience. Once you’ve passed through the door you’re in the ‘whaling era’, surrounded by model whaleboats, a real whaler’s chest from 1818, harpoons and tools, products made of whale like oil and shampoo and information about slaughter and hunting. It’s difficult territory for Nan, but near and dear because of the connection she feels to Mary Ann Sherman.
In blatant juxtaposition is the next zone – Nan’s research. There are satellite tagging tools, slides of whale skin samples lined up next to a microscope, headphones for listening to whale song recordings. There’s
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Cook Islands
Whale & Wildlife Centre coolest One of thoe visit on places t onga Rarot
More than just a museum, it’s interactive and has live creatures and big screen documentaries. over 50 exhibits include whales, whaling history, sharks, turtles, diving history, fishing, shells, corals and lots more. There’s something for everyone plus a café, souvenir shop and Wi-Fi hotspot. situated on the back road behind town, just 900 metres from avatiu Harbour and opposite Mike Tavioni’s carving.
Entry fee helps fund whale research Ph: (682) 21 666 or 55 901 wildlifecentre@whaleresearch.org www.whaleresearch.org
The Big Fish
a preserved melon-headed whale calf, samples of intestines and jars encasing the contents of a whale’s stomach, and Cook Islands News clippings about whale strandings in the Cook Islands. There are skulls, vertebrae, lobster and crab specimens, shark teeth, turtle shells and a plethora of live creatures in cages and tanks – coconut crabs, skinks, geckos, centipedes, hermit crabs and prawns among them. Information is everywhere – lining the walls are posters of local birds and fish and seeds and nuts, a history of SCUBA diving through the ages (illustrated by a dummy diver hanging from the ceiling), and an account of shipwrecks in the Cook Islands decorated with real artefacts such as cruise liner dinner plates and rusty portholes. There’s a movie theatre looping documentaries featuring Nan’s work – she’s been recognised around the world for Footprints on the Water, and is part of a controversial film called Whale Like Me about Japanese whaling. Of the film she says: “We fought whaling with activism, with education, with reasoning, with science, and now I feel really strongly we need to fight with emotion”.
“Bringing actual whalers out on the boat and allowing them to have an eye-to-eye contact with a mother and calf brings me to tears. They see the love between these animals and realise that whales have the same emotions as we humans do.” The Whale and Wildlife Centre also has Whale Tail Café and a souvenir shop, selling all things whale-shaped – from biscuits to colouring books to children’s toys. The centre is just one of Nan’s myriad projects, but it’s one she’s proud of because it opens her world to the public. She considers herself “the conduit between the whales and the people”, and feels duty-bound to share the whales’ stories with the people of the Cook Islands. “For me it’s about escaping the human condition and living in another creature’s world – if anybody thinks we are different or superior to animals, they’re wrong. You quickly realise this when you spend time with these majestic creatures.”
www.thedivecentre-rarotonga.com info@thedivecentre-rarotonga.com Phone +682 20 238, Mobile +682 55 238
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Whale tagging yields valuable information for research and does not harm the whales Above right: Tourists watch from the beach as a whale plays close to shore
SNORKELLING FUN
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Call us today for a fun time on the ocean
Phone (682) 24919 or 74919 info@svsoutherncross.co.nz | www.svsoutherncross.co.nz
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story: Rachel Reeves
t
ourists’ memories of their time in the Cook Islands begin and end with Jake Numanga. Singlehandedly, he is the country’s first impression and its last. For over 30 years, Papa Jake has been welcoming tourists to the Rarotonga International Airport with a song and a smile. Seventeen times a week – nearly 900 times a year – he’s at the airport, hat on and ukulele in hand, to greet arriving flights and farewell departing ones. The plane is his priority. At the 2011/12 Air New Zealand Tourism Awards presentation last November, when the emcee announced Papa Jake as the recipient of the ceremony’s most esteemed award, he was nowhere to be found.
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The National Auditorium erupted into applause, acknowledging the man who probably makes the biggest individual contribution to the tourism industry in the Cook Islands.
Woonton asked him to entertain arriving and departing guests. At the time he was a fire-fighter at the airport-based Rescue Fire Services, and as there was only one flight a week he was able to juggle both gigs.
“I had to come and meet the plane. This is my priority,” Papa Jake says later, pointing at the airport behind him, his security tag around his neck and ukulele case at his side. He’s arrived early to meet the Friday afternoon flight from New Zealand. “I don’t ever want to be late. People expect me to be here singing when they come.” For Papa Jake, it’s as simple as that.
Queen made him a Member of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire in honour of his contribution to tourism, but he’s characteristically humble about that, too.
People loved him. They loved stepping off the airplane into Rarotonga’s humid, fragrant warmth, to the tune of the Polynesian ukulele in the air. Papa Jake made the experience of arriving special for them.
So integral to the airport’s welcoming committee is Papa Jake that he’s now on the Tourism Corporation’s payroll. The
Papa Jake has been a fixture at the Rarotonga Airport since the late 1970s. Over 30 years ago then-chairman of the airport’s board of directors Robert
Murmurs travelled amongst the audience – “I just saw him” and “he was here earlier”, they said – but after a bit of hesitant dithering the emcee declared that Papa Jake had left to meet the plane. The National Auditorium erupted into applause, acknowledging the man who probably makes the biggest individual contribution to the tourism industry in the Cook Islands. Later that night Papa Jake learned of his win – the ANZ Bank sponsored award for Outstanding Contribution to Tourism.
“I don’t know how I got it, but they gave me the MBE award,” he says, laughing and brushing it off.
“In those days when I was on duty I’d be on the fire engine when the plane was coming down and when it landed I’d rush back and change and welcome the people, and when everyone was back on the plane I’d be back on the fire service,” he said.
With each passing year flight numbers started to pick up, and eventually Jake was forced to make a choice – the fire truck or the ukulele. It was a no-brainer.
One of the first locals you’re likely to meet is Tevai Napa. Tevai is part of the Air Rarotonga family and like most of the crew is a Cook Islander who has grown up in these islands and developed her skills with our airline. If you want a true Cook Islands experience talk to Tevai. She’ll tell you about mountain hiking – where you’ll discover lush flora and fauna and beautiful indigenous birds. Ask her where you can buy black pearls from the Manihiki and Tongareva lagoons, traditional decorative quilts with their bold colours and designs. She’ll tell you about finely flavoured foods steamed in banana leaves, some of the best coffee you’ll ever taste, and traditional cultural performances – even where you can enjoy a few rounds of golf. There’s nothing like talking to a local to find out how to get the best out of your Cook Islands’ experience.
e come l e “W to th ” k CooIslands
www.airraro.com LM/SD 2022130
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Papa Jake embodies the Cook Islands warmth and hospitality that keep tourists coming back. Some even come back just to hear him sing. Papa Jake embodies the Cook Islands warmth and hospitality that keep tourists coming back. Some even come back just to hear him sing. “Lots of people come and talk to me and say they really appreciate what I’m doing. One lady the other night came and shook hands with me and said ‘That’s why I’m here in Rarotonga, to see you’.” For Papa Jake, working in tourism is rewarding, as visitors tend to overflow with praise for the beauty of his homeland. “I enjoy seeing new faces coming in and out,” he said. “I like talking to them. I really enjoy it.” He gets paid to play music and make people smile – both of which he does even when he’s off the clock. Papa Jake says he won’t go anywhere without his ukulele. He and his wife took a cruise ship from Hawaii to Tahiti a few years ago, and Papa Jake ended up playing with the hired band and singing for his tour group on the bus during shore excursions. At just 55 years old, after 23 years with the service, Jake took early retirement and jumped full-time into his job as a oneman welcoming committee. Even now, thousands of flights later, he does his job dutifully and with smiling enthusiasm. He’s watched the tourism industry expand and the airport develop to accommodate it. When he started filling the airport with his song there was just one weekly international flight. Now there are international flights every day – 17 a week – and Papa Jake meets every one.
Saturday, his busiest day, he’s at the airport at 1am, and again at 6am. To finish his day he plays ukulele for shore-side diners at Aro’a Beachside Inn in Arorangi, and then he’s back at the airport by 9pm for the LA flight and the 1am Auckland flight. Somehow he still manages to find time to tend his taro patch, feed his pigs and be with his family. “They say there’s no rest for the wicked – I must be wicked,” Papa Jake says with a big smile. But everyone who knows him, and even those who don’t, would beg to differ.
He flew to Nauru via Fiji once, and just by picking up his ukulele during a stopover inspired the Fiji airport authorities to put together their own welcoming band. “There were three flights leaving and the place was full of tourists going to Japan. I was waiting for Air Nauru to pick me up – I got my ukulele and started singing, and it didn’t take long for those Fijian boys to pick it up. They were clapping around me and they said when you come back you come and sing again. And now they’ve got a group at the airport there.”
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Like all Cook Islanders, Papa Jake comes from a musical background. His father was a well-known composer, and his grandfather started Pokata Band in Ngatangiia, recruiting a son to play trumpet and his wife to play piano. Papa Jake grew up dancing, playing guitar and ukulele, and singing with his parents. “Some of the songs I learned from my parents as a kid – on Sundays when we finished eating we’d start singing, and I picked up those songs,” he said.
guitar you look Westernised – you should play ukulele, it’s more Polynesian’,” Jake remembers. “Since then I’ve played the ukulele and I enjoy that.”
While he plays a range of instruments, he switched to playing ukulele almost exclusively at a tourist’s request. “One flight I was singing and this man walked up to me and said ‘I saw you with the ukulele’, he said to me ‘When you play the
"I knew the song but I didn’t know what it meant, but when I sang it a big group came around and sang with me. Now when I see the French tourists I sing it for them and they always turn their head and laugh,” he said.
He sings in English and Cook Islands Maori, and even sings some songs in French and Samoan, though he admits with a grin he doesn’t know what their lyrics mean. “One time a group came from New Caledonia and a man walked up to me and asked me to sing a French song."
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He’s always open to requests, and says if he knows the song he’ll sing it. The son of Tangianau from Mangaia and Tauariki from Rarotonga, Papa Jake was brought up by Teakana Numanga so takes the Numanga name. He has always lived in Rarotonga, and has enjoyed a long marriage to wife Kate (nee Williams). The couple has seven children – Jake Junior, Harry, Tauariki, Kathy, Peter, William and Rosina – and over 20 grandchildren. Papa Jake’s family is spread across the world, from Hawai’i to Utah to the British Virgin Isles. But when they fly back to Rarotonga, they know they can count on Jake and his ukulele being there to welcome them home.
Moana Gems The Pearl Lounge Paka’s Pearls
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legend THE
of Luka &
Leiakunavai
O
ne day, Leiakunavai asked her husband Luka to go fish for the Tiwitiwi (butterfly fish). Leiakunavai was pregnant and craved the sweet orange fish. And so her husband Luka went fishing in the canoe and came home with lots of Tiwitiwi. Leiakunavai lit a fire and cooked the sweet fish. The next day Leiakunavai again asked Luka for more Tiwitiwi and so they both set out in the canoe. They travelled out past the lagoon into the sea. Luka dived deep down with his net. When he returned, he saw Leiakunavai still in the canoe. He again dived deep down with his net. When he returned, he still saw Leiakunavai in the canoe. For the third time, he dove deep down with his net. A light rain shower came and the Punga, the spirit lady from the coral, came to the canoe. The Punga called to Leiakunavai "what are you doing there?" "Who are you?" asked Leiakunavai, "where do you come from?" The Punga grabbed Leiakunavai's hand and pulled her down into the sea. The Punga climbed into the front of the canoe where Leiakunavai had been sitting. She transformed herself into Leiakunavai. The real Leiakunavai managed to climb back into the canoe. She sat at the back where her husband had been sitting. When Luka returned, he saw two women in the canoe. Surprised he called Out, "which one of you is my real Leiakunavai?" He could not tell his real wife for they looked exactly the same. Both women answered at the same time "I am the real one, I am the real Leiakunavai." The husband kept asking, "who is the real Leiakunavai?" The women started fighting one another each crying out "I am the real one, I am the real Leiakunavai." The husband began to yell and hit the water for he could not pick his real wife. Luka suddenly remembered that his real wife had sat at the front of the canoe while he had sat at the back. Luka grabbed his real wife at
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the back of the canoe and threw her into the sea. Luka paddled back to Wale and took the Punga home. The real Leiakunavai stayed at sea crying "Luka, come back. I am your real wife, I am the real Leiakunavai." Luka did not turn back but just kept paddling. Leiakunavai cried and cried and gasped for breath as the sea filled her lungs.
Leiakunavai became so tired of their begging, that she allowed them to go. "Okay," she said, "you may go and look for your father, but if your father asks about me tell him that I am at home. If he wants to come with you, do not allow him to. If you do, I will go into the wooden post of the house and change into a rat."
their father. "She is at home," they replied. "Let me come with you," said Luka. "No," said the boys "you can not come with us. If you come with us, she will go into the wooden post of the house and turn into a rat." The father refused for he still wanted to see his real Leiakunavai. The boys wanted their parents together again and sothey allowed their father to come with them.
She prayed and called out to the gods During all this time, Luka stayed on Wale "Please, make me a small coral where I with his fake wife. Soon after they had Leiakunavai waited at the beach for her can stand with one leg and rest." The gods returned to Wale, he became worried sons. She worried that they might never made her a small piece of coral. She rested because Leiakunavai did not give birth. He return. Soon she saw the canoe coming. with one leg but could not stand straight. kept asking her, "When are you going to give Leiakunavai again called to the gods birth? Are you the real Leiakunavai?" She watched carefully and counted two "Please, make the coral bigger that I can "Yes," she replied, "I am the real Leiakunavai, people in the canoe. "Good," she said "it’s stand up straight with both legs and take a and I will give birth next month." The Punga just the two of them. They listened to what I rest." The gods did this and she took a long told lies and Luka waited and waited and in told them." The canoe came closer and she rest. In the distance, Leiakunavai saw this way many years passed. counted again, but this time she counted a motu, a small islet of land. Once again "one, two, three." "What?" she cried "Three?" she prayed to the gods, "please give She thought she had made a When Amelia Borofsky returned me the power to swim to the mistake, but she looked very recently to Pukapuka, the island of her land." The gods gave carefully and saw that childhood, she spent many hours with the pupils of Niua her the power to yes, three of them sat School. This legend was narrated to her by Yikaingake Tinokula and swim to the land. in the canoe. Leikunavai Tapeta Angaino of Form 5. The illustration is by Matatia Taikakara. Once Leikunavai got ran back home and Atawai wolo - our sincere thanks to the pupils and principal of to the shore, she thought, "oh my the school and to Amelia for her intrepid journey to lay down to rest. children are bad because this remote atoll. Soon the time came for her they didn't listen to me. I told to give birth. She gave birth to two twin them not to bring their father but they boys. The first she named Mangitua and the Luka didn't listen." So Leiakunavai went to the second she named Mangialo. As the boys realized that she was not the real post of the house and turned into a rat. grew older and stronger they began to ask Leiakunavai but the Punga. Luka called all their mother about their father. "Who is our the people in the village to light a flaming The children and their father came on shore. father?" they would ask. fire. He grabbed the Punga and threw her They went to their home and the father into the fire. As she burned, she turned into asked, "Where is your mother?" The children Leiakunavai told them lies. "The wood post rocks that crackled. Luka realized his big already knew. They could hear the "eek eek" of the house is your father," she would mistake and that he should not have left his crying sound of a rat coming from inside the reply. The boys kept asking "who is our real Leiakunavai out at sea. Luka went post of the house. "Oh," they cried "that is father?" and she would say, "go and ask the out to the sea to look for her but of course our mother crying inside the post. She told post." The boys asked the post, but the post he could not find her. us not to bring you here." remained silent. Finally, Leiakunavai became sick and tired of them always When he returned, he heard that two boys Luka cried at the loss of the real Leiakunavai. asking about their father and so she told had travelled in a canoe to look for their He then returned with his two sons to Wale. them the whole true story. father. He thought to himself "they might be Leikunavai stayed on the little motu as a rat my children." The children askedaround the and you can still hear her crying "eek, eek." Mangitua and Mangialo felt so sad that village "Have you seen Luka?" for they knew their father had left their mother. "Will you his name. "Those are my children," Luka let us go and look for our father?" they cried. He ran to them and they hugged and Escape Magazine donates $250 to schools in exchange for a legend written and illustrated by asked. "No," replied Leiakunavai. The boys kissed them and cried. their pupils. Many of our issues have featured kept begging every day "Please, mother let different legends. This scheme benefits the schools and encourages pupils to research and us go and meet our father. We will return." Soon it came time for the boys to return to write about their own culture. their mother. "Where is your mother?" asked
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Aitutaki is 220 kilometers north and an easy 45 minute flight from Rarotonga, the capital of the Cook Islands. Considered one of the most magnificent lagoons in the world with small uninhabited islands on its surrounding reef, it is unquestionably the most picturesque of the Cooks southern group islands.
Aitutaki
a little slice of heaven 66 • ESCAPE
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any visitors to the Cook Islands take the opportunity to discover Aitutaki’s beauty by taking a day trip from Rarotonga, which usually includes a cruise on the lagoon. However, the luxury of a little extra time fully reveals the stunning palette of a tropical retreat unsurpassed anywhere in the world; and a welcoming and friendly local populace who live life at an easy, relaxed pace. So if you’re considering a visit - stay over a night or two, or preferably longer; you will not be disappointed. And certainly, a visit to the Cook Islands is not complete without visiting Aitutaki. It is a place of unsurpassed natural beauty and simple tranquility, providing a rejuvenating tonic to sooth away the pressures of the outside world. The breathtaking allure of its crystal clear turquoise waters and sparkling white beaches confirms that it is “one of the places to visit while you are still on this earth”. From the air this island paradise has to be one of the most beautiful sights in the South Pacific. Aitutaki is made up of a
triangular-shaped reef encompassing an aqua lagoon in which three volcanic and twelve small coral islands nestle. A small island is known locally as a motu. The best thing about Aitutaki is undoubtedly its lagoon. They have taxis here, but rather than those normally found on land, these are small fast boats equipped with outboard motors. They can take you to your own private island where you can spend the day snorkeling, sunbathing or having a picnic, and then pick you up after several restful, sun-filled hours. There are also numerous lagoon tours, which last almost an entire day. Lunch, refreshments, snorkeling gear, and towels are always provided and nearly all tour operators can pick you up from the airport, or your hotel. Possibly the most well-known is Air Rarotonga’s day tour onboard Titi-ai-Tonga, a large double hulled vessel that cruises languidly in the lagoon. Sit down meals are served by friendly staff, and after snorkeling in the lagoon visitors are taken to One Foot Island (Tapuaetai).
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Aitutaki Magic
For over 18 years Bishops Cruises have had the privilege of introducing people to this amazing and unique corner of the Cook Islands. We are Aitutaki’s most experienced operator and we welcome the opportunity to include you to a long list of satisfied customers. We offer a choice of cruises and safe boats, with transfers, snorkelling gear, beach towels and lunch on One Foot Island all provided. So why not join us for a fun-filled day cruising, snorkelling and swimming in our picturesque lagoon. Bishops Cruises is perhaps the lagoon’s most experienced and they offer a choice of cruises to various islands. And you can opt for a smaller boat with a more intimate and personal tour if you wish. After a wonderful morning of snorkeling and feeding the fish, lunch is usually served at One Foot Island which boasts what could be the world’s smallest Post Office. Don’t forget to take your passport with you; because you can have it stamped here, making a great souvenir of your visit. This vast lagoon was once a stopover for the TEAL (Tasman Empire Airways Limited) Short Solent flying boats traveling the renowned ‘Coral Route’ through the South Pacific. TEAL is the former name of Air New Zealand and TEAL themery can be found in a small lodge on Motu Akaiami. The lodge has been built on the exact spot where the original terminal stood and remains of the original
Passengers would swim in the clear warm waters in the bay, shower outdoors under the palms and eat lunches of crisply cut sandwiches and local pawpaw...
Wedding Specialists Bishops are Aitutaki’s ‘ISLAND WEDDING’ specialists. For a wedding made in heaven, let us arrange your special day for you - beneath the palms, on the sands of romantic One Foot Island. Visit our website to discover more…
Reservations Essential tel. 31 009 68 • ESCAPE bishopcruz@aitutaki.net.ck | www.bishopscruises.com
base and jetty are still visible today. Here the well-to-do of the fifties, including movie stars John Wayne, Cary Grant and the like, stopped for a few hours or even overnight, while planes were refuelled, serviced, or waiting for weather to clear. Passengers would swim in the clear warm waters in the bay, shower outdoors under the palms and eat lunches of crisply cut sandwiches and local pawpaw, before re-embarking. Aitutaki has an interesting aviation history. It was 1942 when the construction juggernaut that would soon become known as the Seabees came ashore and began constructing what many feared would be the last line of defence for allied forces fighting
manu Beach Previous page: Motu Rapota, CICC Church Arutanga Left: Motu Akaiami Below: Happy faces and Flamboyant Trees
Tamanu Beach
The perfect lagoon-side setting for breakfast, lunch & dinner, as well as regular live entertainment. • Island Night & Fire Dance - Thursday evenings • BBQ with live entertainment - Sunday evenings • Excellent A La Carte menu - every other evening the Japanese. The airport at Aitutaki was constructed as part of operation Bobcat. With their slogan ”we build – we fight”, the Seabees soon had the island air-base operational; just in time to see them move from this part of the Pacific, as they pursued the Japanese further to the north and west. The runway has recently been completely rebuilt. Charmingly small, quaint even, Aitutaki airport is the busiest it’s been since the war days.
Ph. (682) 31810 Fax. (682) 31816
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BOUTIQUE BEACH VILLAS AITUTAKI, COOK ISLANDS
Back further in time; the first European discovery was by Captain Bligh sailing on the Bounty in 1789. He sighted the island just 17 days prior to the infamous mutiny. Bligh returned later to Aitutaki and is said to have introduced the pawpaw which, like other varieties of tropical fruit, grows in abundance all over the island. 50 years later the first missionary, the Reverend John Williams of The London Missionary Society, introduced Christianity to Aitutaki and the Cook Islands Christian Church, down by the wharf at Arutanga, became the very first Church built in the Cook Islands. A grand old lady with coral walls, stained glass windows and ornate ceiling decorations, she is a constant inspiration to locals and a reminder that Aitutaki was the first of the nation’s islands to embrace Christianity.
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Eight luxurious self-contained polynesian style villas with spectacular ocean views,swimming pool and honesty bar. www.etumoana.com | Phone (682) 31 458
AITUTAKI • COOK ISLANDS
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Below: The Marae at Paengariki Centre: Sunset at Arutanga Right: On the sandbar at Motu Maina Iti
sacred feasts and coming-of-age ceremonies were celebrated and human sacrifice took place. This is a fascinating place to visit.
Delving further into the islands past is local trainee archaeologist Ngaakitai Pureariki. On a four acre sight in one of Aitutaki’s bush-clad valleys Nga’a is uncovering remnants of his peoples ancient past on a site strewn with large obelisk-like stones. Carbon dating of samples reveal that the Marae at Paengariki was established around 1000 A.D. Warriors met here before and after battle; sacred feasts and coming-of-age ceremonies were celebrated and human sacrifice took place. This is a fascinating place to visit. Visitors will find a wide range of accommodation options available on the main island; from award-winning resorts to less expensive clean and comfortable motels and backpacker operations. The best way to see the Aitutaki mainland is by hired car or motor scooter. A winding road criss-crossing the island and lots of small
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tracks, lead to interesting, unexpected places and a number of local villages. A short drive up Maunga Pu provides a fantastic 360 degrees lookout of the entire vista – whichever way you turn. Several guided tours are available on the main island, visiting ancient sites, burial grounds and major points of interest. Most serve light refreshments or lunch. Island nights with cultural shows are on throughout the week. Experiences not be missed are the island nights at Pacific Resort Aitutaki, Samade On The Beach and Tamanu Beach. Some of the best meals using local produce are to be savoured at Café Tupuna, Boatshed Bar & Grill and Te Vaka Bar & Grill. On the waterfront near the wharf at Arutanga, is the Aitutaki Game Fishing Club which has a bar inside a shipping container; this is a good place to make contacts for deep sea fishing enthusiasts. At O’otu Beach
you’ll find the Koru Café is an ideal spot for lunch and Samade Restaurant & Bar, a great place for a meal any time of the day or night, or for lazing away long hours on a white sandy beach. Fishing aficionados will be in heaven on Aitutaki, as several operators offer game and sport fishing beyond the reef and there is always the call of the elusive bone-fish within the lagoon. Scuba diving is excellent in clear, warm waters and there is a choice of accredited operators who will show you a great time and a memorable underwater experience. Hot sun, white sands, swaying coconut palms, a stunning turquoise lagoon and romantic sunsets - Aitutaki is blessed with them all; and friendly, laughing people that make you feel very welcome – all the time.
Phone: (682) 31 197 Mob: (682) 55 839 Email: rinos@aitutaki.net.ck www.rinosaitutakihotels.com
www.cookislands.travel
Neil Mitchell’s
Aitutaki Scuba Scuba & Snorkel Tours
28 years of diving Aitutaki guarantees you the best dives • PADI Instructor #452677 • NAUI Instructor #8812
Ph: (682) 31703 or 31103 Mob: (682) 56103 Email: scuba@aitutaki.net.ck
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Chasing Aitutaki’s elusive
bonefis story: Alan Syme photos: Peter Morse & Alan Syme
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The island of Aitutaki has to be one of the most beautiful tropical locations anywhere in the world. It’s an easy 50 min flight north of the main island of Rarotonga in the Cook Islands, right here in the heart of the South Pacific.
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Aitutaki’s beauty comes from its breath-taking lagoon that is nothing less than stunning; this same lagoon is also home to the widely sought after bonefish. In fact, the Aitutaki lagoon is a haven for some of the largest bonefish in the world. It is only recently however that anglers have become more aware of this treasure chest on the back door step of both Australia and New Zealand.
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he kiokio, as they are named in Cook Island Maori, are one of the most challenging fish to catch on the planet due to a variety of reasons. They are only found in tropical shallow lagoon areas, they are extremely wary, skittish and are known to spook easily. Bonefish use their sharp eyes against the skyline and the clear shallow water of the lagoon as a defence against predators, including fishermen. They are highly sought after by anglers from around the globe due to their fighting ability, the difficulty of seeing them, let alone hooking, or even landing them. Bonefish are well-known for their hard fighting ability, as pound for pound they are one of the hardest pullers of line. Aitutaki guide Butch Leone describes them as “Ferraris with fins”. These factors combine to make the bonefish highly sought after; some people spend small fortunes pursuing them in the hope of landing one. Not all are successful, and it is this challenge plus the often associated expense that has them at the top of many fly-fishers bucket list of dream fish. Not only does Aitutaki have some of the biggest bonefish in the world - it also has accessibility. It is therefore relatively inexpensive to have a chance at catching bonefish compared to many other wellknown tropical locations in the Pacific, Indian and Atlantic Oceans. According to my research the current all tackle world record for bonefish is 8.61 kilos, or 19 pounds (most fly-fisher folk still speak in traditional pounds). That particular fish was captured way back in 1962 off the coast of South Africa. Aitutakian expert Itu Davey (more about him soon) has personally seen bonefish in excess of 14 kilos or 30 pounds plus! It is mind blowing to think that the world
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relatively new. Butch Leone, who is an ex pat American, has been fly fishing on the lagoon and successfully taking clients on guided trips for a bit over ten years. Butch has been instrumental in raising awareness of the value of the bonefish to Aitutaki. In 2009 and 2010 the Cook Islands Ministry of Marine Resources (MMR) set about establishing a tourism focused sport fishery for bonefish. With assistance from local stakeholders, fishermen, and overseas experts the ‘Aitutaki and Manuae Bonefish Fishery’ was formalised and established in 2010. In order to fish for bonefish, you must purchase a permit; that permit can be for various lengths of time depending on your intentions. As part of this bone fishery establishment, locals were offered training and assistance to become accredited guides. They went through the training programme that involves first aid certificates, safety
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training, boat master courses and advice on how to deal positively with clients. One of the locals who became an accredited guide is Itu (pronounced E2) Davey, a born and bred Aitutakian from a family who made their living by netting the kiokio. I recently had the pleasure of spending a day chasing bonefish with him and was intrigued to hear of the transformation undertaken by Itu and his family towards the fish. This Guy is a real expert. We talked at length and he told me the bright hope that he has for the future: The Davey family are well known on Aitutaki for their ability to net kiokio using the knowledge, traditions and techniques passed down through their family. Itu grew up learning the feeding, schooling and behavioural habits of the bonefish; this knowledge was essential to successfully
net them. Approached by MMR to establish wether he would like to become a bonefish guide, he was told of the value and potential of a sustainable tourism based sport fishery. Itu says “it makes me very happy now as my family has a future”. His sons have possible future employment, using the traditional knowledge that has been passed down in a positive way. This knowledge is not lost, but is instead now being used in a sustainable and beneficial way. Itu is also very pleased that his two brothers are involved with the fledging guiding industry that looks set to expand. The Davey family have gone from earning a living gathering the bonefish, to now earning an income from catching and releasing them, which is a totally different mindset. Itu says that “now I really see and
record fish is still swimming around in the lagoon of Aitutaki right now. Absolutely amazing!! Once this becomes widely known it is only a matter of time until a new world record is established by a Cook Islands bonefish. Aitutaki bone fishing is on the edge of a tidal wave of popularity in my opinion, as more and more fly-fishers become aware. I am picking that it will soon become one of the worlds premier destinations for saltwater fly-fishing, once the northern hemisphere markets of America and Europe find out more about it! On the island, the infrastructure and resorts are already established, the people are welcoming, it is safe, it is a good value yet high quality location, it is accessible and stunningly captivating. All of this is aside from the actual fishing. The sports bone fishing of Aitutaki is
Bonefish are also known as "phantoms of the flat”, “grey ghosts" or “silver bullets”. They are considered, pound for pound, as one of the strongest and fastest moving fish of any salt-water species.
appreciate the beauty and the grace of the bonefish where I didn’t view them like that in the past”. This really is a model that can be upheld and used for other species here in the Cook Islands and further afield. The fish are sighted, fought, captured, photographed and released. They continue to feed, breed and live, meanwhile providing meaningful employment, flow on effects and pleasure for many people, both tourists and locals alike.
The technique for catching bonefish involves silently drifting a boat with the help of a long pole. The guide poles the boat and spots the fish from an elevated position on a purpose built platform, at the stern of the boat. The angler, who has been waiting patiently at the bow with the rod ready to cast, then hopefully places an accurate cast of the fly (which is best described as a very small shrimp imitation) near the fish. This is done based on instructions from the guide as to where far the fish is. Sounds easy? Well it can be, but more often than not it is a real challenge and this is part of the attraction of the pursuit. Bonefish are also known as "phantoms of the flat”, “grey ghosts" or “silver bullets”. They are considered, pound for pound, as one of the strongest and fastest moving fish of any salt-water species. Under the excellent eyes of Itu, I was lucky enough
to hook up to one of these missiles on the flats. Once I struck the hook home the fish put on the afterburners and headed for the horizon, as the reel screamed in protest. It was awesome! After a fight of ten minutes or so the fish was landed and I had a chance to admire the shimmering silver scales up close as photos were taken. They truly are an amazing fish and I now have a deep appreciation of why they are so sought after. I saw how they generate their power from long muscular and athletic bodies that taper into a forked and robust tail which propels them with such great force.
The fish that I landed was considered a small one for Aitutaki, 6 pounds, but this is well above average for most locations in the world. Aitutaki boasts an average of 8
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pounds. This is significant when a 10 pound fish is considered to be of international trophy status. Many people have come to Aitutaki to try to catch a “bone” and some go home without the photos that they are after. Bonefish are hard to catch and are very wary in Aitutaki. Unlike some locations such as the Caribbean where the fish pick up the fly and run with it, the bonefish of Aitutaki are more likely to gently sip in the fly and then quickly spit it out. Without a knowledgeable guide and a keen set of eyes, many fishermen do not even know that they had a fish inhale their fly. I strongly recommend all fly-fishers to increase their chance of success by using the services of an accredited guide. Their knowledge, skill, eyes and instructions make all the difference. Many guides tie their own flies and will know where to
locate the fish at certain times of the tide, moon, season and day. If you are after an idyllic postcard perfect location where you can have a genuine shot at a new world record, or you just want to tick off a new fish species, or just catch a fish, then Aitutaki is where it is at. If you do decide to take up the challenge your guide will do everything possible to get you onto a fish, but it is a demanding test of angling ability especially for first timers using a fly rod. Are you up for the challenge of the Aitutaki silver bullets?
fact file: Season: Year round. Restrictions: Catch and Release only. Bonefish permit must be purchased (ask your accommodation where you can do this). Technique: Fly-fishing over the extensive lagoon flats. Who: With an accredited guide such as: Itu Davey | tel: (682) 31686 or (682) 52077 Email: e2davey@aitutaki.net.ck www.e2sway.com Butch Leone | tel: (682) 31487 Email: flyfish@aitutaki.net.ck or aitutaki4me@yahoo.com www.aitutakibluelagoon.com Jubliee Reu | tel: (682) 31292 Email: bonefish@aitutaki.net.ck
Tupuna’s Tupuna’s Restaurant Restaurant aitutaki
For quite possibly the best a-la-carte dining on Aitutaki visit Tupuna’s Restaurant. Here, in a truly relaxed island setting, we promise you an evening to remember and cuisine you’ll want to tell your friends about. Relax with sand in your toes while we serve you the freshest island produce of the day. We are fully licensed and open Monday to Saturday from 6pm. Visa, Amex & Mastercard accepted.
Reservations Recommended
Phone: 31678
Email: tupunasrestaurant@aitutaki.net.ck
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If you’re looking for the perfect pacific experience then this is the offer for you …
AItutAkI Aitutaki, one of the world’s favorite islands, encircles a spectacular turquoise lagoon. that provides wonderful opportunities for swimming, snorkeling or simply wandering the white sand beaches.
Samade Escape to
on the beach
AItu You’ll find a variety of fruit and a delicious local brew of coffee. Atiu is also known as Enuamanu, “island of the birds”. Birdlife is prolific, including the kura, the recently re-introduced rimatara Lorikeet.
12 garden view bungalows Restaurant & bar open 7 days Best swimming location on Aitutaki Breakfast, lunch & dinner • Sunday - all day barbeque Tuesday - Island Nite • Kayaks complimentary to house guests
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samade@aitutaki.net.ck • www.samadeonthebeach.com Check our special deals on www.wotif.com Accommodation • Bar • Restaurant • Tel: (682) 31 526
rArotongA
www.airraro.com ESCAPE • 77
environment first story: Rachel Smith
At the 2011/12 Air New Zealand Cook Islands Tourism Awards, Pacific Divers takes out the coveted Environment Award sponsored by ANZ Bank.
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hen Steve Lyons first visited Rarotonga, there were no plans of owning an award winning dive company. Many years later, and seven years of running Pacific Divers, sees him more than happy with their recent success at the Air New Zealand Cook Islands Tourism Awards. It was Pacific Divers ability to have a positive environmental impact within the business and also outside in the community, that won them the ANZ Bank Environment Award last year. For Lyons the award came as something of a surprise, as there are many other businesses in the Cook Islands who he acknowledges have well established environmental practices.
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The range of environmental activities, that Pacific Divers are involved in across the Cook Islands, paints a clear picture of a business that takes its impact on the environment very seriously. One part of this is the annual underwater clean up, which ran for a month last year in Rarotonga’s three harbours, and included free dive gear to members of the public who assisted at Avana Harbour.
This was run alongside a land based Rubbish Roundup that was organised by Pacific Islands Conservation Initiative (PICI), of which Pacific Divers is a key supporter. The initiative runs the Cook Islands Turtle Project, Rubbish Roundup, and is establishing a shark sanctuary in the Cook Islands. Lyons sees it simply as all part of his personal philosophy of “considering the environment in all decisions.” While obviously economic principals drive a business, he thinks it is also sound business practice to consider how you impact the environment, with economic benefits from simple steps such as decreasing fuel consumption, power and paper usage.
Pacific Divers implements all of this on a daily basis, from small steps in the office such as turning off lights and computers and the drinks fridge over night, to the purchase of a new boat for the business. The new boat, which was built in Aitutaki, has been in the water since December 2009. Lyons specifically chose a boat design that was both affordable and environmentally friendly. The engine produces low emissions and complies with US emission standards, which he has used as a benchmark in the absence of any official standards in the Cook Islands. He sees the key difference in being how they operate the boat; it is a much larger vessel which means that it does not need to return to port as often, it is comfortable enough for customers to spend the entire day on and they choose to drive slowly to reduce fuel consumption. The vessel also stays in the water, which reduces vehicle usage by not needing to tow the boat and launch it every day. In a business that relies on the pristine quality of the ocean, every action by Pacific Divers takes the environment into account. A number of fixed mooring lines for the boat have been set up to use instead of anchoring.
This minimises damage to the reef, which in turn makes for a better diving experience. Every dive trip is an opportunity to remove trash that is washed into the ocean, such as nappies, cans and even the occasional tyre. To Lyon’s it is an “ongoing process” and one which the customers notice and often comment on. It is hoped that by setting this example that others, including tourists, will take similar action. Lyons has a long association with the Cook Islands, and in particular Rarotonga. He first visited as part of his Masters research following on from his Bachelor of Science in Marine Environmental Science, where he looked at the baseline health of the reef in Rarotonga. Many visits took place after that, including working part time at Pacific Divers for the previous owners, and as a consultant undertaking underwater surveys in Nassau and Mitiaro. When the business came up for sale the time seemed right and he and his family moved to Rarotonga permanently. A PADI instructor for over 15 years and a diver since 1986, diving is something that Lyons thoroughly enjoys. He describes it as one of the only places in the world where you have the opportunity to see wildlife
close up, and come face to face with ocean dwellers such as big predators and turtles. In his role as a dive instructor he finds it “an absolute pleasure to show others the underwater world.” Lyons enjoys the challenge that running a small business brings and is constantly looking at ways to improve what they do from both a business and environmental perspective. The business now offers kiteboarding, outer reef snorkelling and a system called Super Snorkel, where you are able to snorkel to greater depths. As for the future, Lyons has dreams of one day building another boat, a different design that is a work in progress and another step towards limiting environmental impact. They will continue their underwater rubbish collections across Rarotonga, and reducing their carbon footprint through maximising resources in their day to day work. They also have further projects in the pipeline, in conjunction with PICI, on the outer islands including Palmerston. Of one thing you can be sure – the Environment Award was well deserved and there will be more environmentally friendly initiatives to come.
Top: Steve Lyons Above: The clean-up crew
CC nnect nnectwith withaa well wellconnected connected bank. bank. Official Official Bank Bank forfor the the Tourism Tourism Awards. Awards.
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atiu
enua manu
Re-discovering nature and solitude on ‘the island of birds’.
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here are few places left in the world like Atiu, an island with just over 500 people and acres and acres of untouched rainforest and coastal bush. There are no western bars (apart from the small one at Atiu Villas), bright neon lights or busy roads. For travellers searching for an island paradise, Atiu is it. Most overseas visitors to Atiu lament on departure that they wish they’d organised a longer stay on this unspoiled island gem, full of captivating history, scenery and friendly people. The Anatakitaki Cave walk is the perfect offering for visitors who want an unforgettable nature experience. On the day we went, we were guided by Marshall Humphreys. Married to Atiuan Jeanne, Marshall is proud of Atiu conservation and how the locals “always leave a bit for the next day, like when they go fishing and catch just enough to eat.” He’s also impressed with the way the island works as a community. Reasonable fitness and covered shoes are needed for the trek through tropical forest that resembles a fantastically overgrown garden. Regarded by environmentalists as a national treasure, Anatakitaki Cave is home to the Kopeka bird, a swallow unique to Atiu, which like a bat, navigates its way in the pitch black caverns using sonar. The towering limestone caverns contain cauliflower coral, proving that the caves were once beneath the sea, as these coral formations only occur underwater. There
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are huge stalactites reaching to the cavern floor and massive stalagmites sparkling as though they are embedded with millions of diamonds. The magnificence of the caverns is breathtaking. Another tour takes you to Rimarau Burial Cave that includes visits to age old marae and “walking the dramatic route taken by hundreds as they went to meet their death in ancient times.” If beaches, historic sights and panoramic scenery also appeal, opt for an island tour. It offers contrasting scenery, drives through shady roads and forest thick with ancient trees to coastal tracks and points of interest including the coral garden, sinkholes and fabulous little beaches ideal for shell collecting or leisurely lolling in the warm, pristine sea. George Mateariki, better known as Birdman George, takes us on his morning tour – first stop is to catch a glimpse of the endangered Kakerori bird. We are a bit startled as George begins loudly beeping his car horn as we near the nesting ground. He explains that being inquisitive birds, Kakerori are drawn to unusual noises. He calls to them, walking through the picturesque bush and making kissing noises. The birds do not disappoint, replying with their call sounds. To see Kakerori so close is a real treat, as they were once on the brink of extinction. Along the way, George points out medicinal plants and how they are used to treat various ailments. “I love my history and everything I know about Atiu was taught to me by my grandfathers,” says George.
A fun experience is a visit to one of the legendary Atiu tumunu – ‘clubs’, where local men gather to drink homebrew and chat about island affairs, with clear rules about conduct. Often there’s a stringband for added entertainment. Visitors are always welcome to stop in, partake of a cup of the local brew and meet the locals. “There’s money in the land,” says Mata Arai, pointing to her coffee bushes laden with ripe berries. Mata is an industrious Atiuan woman who produces the 100 percent Atiu Island Coffee using a technique she learnt from her grandmother as a child. It’s a process all done by hand. Atiu Island Coffee can be purchased from Mata’s home, in Atiu stores, or supermarkets on Rarotonga.
Left: Rimatara Lorikeet (Kura) Centre: Captain Cooks Landing Below: Rimarau Burial Cave
birdman GEORGE
connoisseurs should take Juergen’s informative tour of plantations and factory, ending with a tasting on the verandah of their home at Atiu Fibre Arts Gallery. The Atiu Fibre Arts Gallery is definitely on the ‘to visit’ list when on Atiu. Andrea Eimke’s exquisite technicoloured tivaivai (quilting) is displayed, along with other textile art. Completing an embroidery apprenticeship before settling on Atiu, then seeing what local women were doing “the dies were cast, I was hooked” says Andrea.
A unique island. A unique guide. Let George show you the highlights of Atiu. Explore the ancient trails, discover the birds, learn the uses of many plants, visit a burial cave, verify the recovery of the near extinct Kakerori bird and picnic island-style at a secluded beach. Atui’s most popular guide!
Phone 33047
Email: atiu@ihug.co.nz
Please support the advertisers in this magazine… For someone who “never wanted to be a coffee grower” Juergen Manske produces Atiu Coffee, some of the finest coffee to be found in the region. He and artist wife, Andrea Eimke settled in Atiu some 23 years ago. Discovering acres of coffee plantations, Juergen took 20 kilos to Europe to have it checked out. The verdict – “terrific coffee,” says Juergen. “We established that it is arabica coffee with very low caffeine content.” Coffee
And so it all started with one sewing machine, a lot of inspiration and the desire to preserve traditional knowledge and skills, plus creating jobs for local women. Today, Atiu Fibre Arts Studio has developed into an enterprise that produces world class textile art, drawing students for workshops on Atiu from far afield.
they make it possible for you to read this for free.
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Island Entrepreneur Sandra Paterson talks to Roger Malcolm about building a resort – and a life – on an outer island. sulphate. Mango wood, for the record, is not much good because the bugs love it, but the rest of the timber that the resort is built from still looks beautiful and receives many comments.
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hen Roger Malcolm first went to Atiu, the only way to communicate with anyone on Rarotonga was by Morse code. The year was 1978; there was no running water, no television and no telephone service. But the airport had just opened, meaning tourists could visit – and that, to an entrepreneurial type, meant opportunity. Roger decided to put down roots, along with his wife Kura and their two pre-schoolers, and to build the island’s first tourist accommodation. To do so, he needed a large amount of timber - and the only way to get it was by sea, which was both expensive and somewhat unreliable. Most people would have given up fairly quickly or spent large sums of money on inter-island shipping. But what an entrepreneur does is buy a nine-metre-long saw mill. “There were trees everywhere, so in my naivety I thought I’d just bring in a saw mill. I went to the Waipa Saw Mill in New Zealand and learned all about saw doctoring and chainsaw maintenance, and then we just plunged in. We had no idea what the local tropical wood would look like. We started with coconut palms and from there used lots of others - Java plum, mango, acacia - taking the trees that were too close together.” To preserve the wood they drilled holes in the logs and filled them with copper
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It took a year to build the first villa; occupancy rates for the first year of operation hovered around 13 per cent; and there was one hurdle after another. But for someone with a pioneering spirit and a scientific background – well used to trial and error – it was a life full of adventure. “You were always on your own when it came to solving a problem. You’ve got to have a lot of patience.” Roger has a PhD in upper atmospheric physics; and it was science that brought him to the Cook Islands in the first place. As a PhD student he needed to examine tropical skies in two places roughly the same distance from the equator, so he was using data from both Rarotonga and Hawaii. He met Kura on Rarotonga. She was born on Atiu but had been to high school and teacher’s training college in New Zealand, before returning to teach in her homeland. When they first began building the resort, they figured the six villas, an entertainment centre and their own house would all be finished in five years. Thirtyplus years later, they still haven’t finished the house. “It’s the kind of place where you get distracted by all sorts of fun things,” laughs Roger. Some of the distractions over the years have included a stint as mayor of the island; being a director of a shipping
company; and coming up with ideas to help boost tourism and the population. In 1978 the population of Atiu was around 1500; it’s now 450 and dropping. “We need about 1000 people to make the island viable.” The latest idea, boosting pupil numbers at Atiu’s Enuamanu School, is a language immersion scheme, where children with Cook Islands heritage from New Zealand, Australia and Rarotonga will spend at least a term living with local families and going to school, in order to gain fluency. Cook Islands Maori is spoken much more widely on Atiu than on Rarotonga. Like many of the ideas on the island, it was born at the tumunu, one of Atiu’s infamous local drinking holes. “People forget that the tumunu is a place where men get together and talk about things. It’s a communal point.” Tourists enjoy visiting the tumunu, too, although there are never more than about 12 tourists on the island at any one time. Surprisingly, says Roger, the best visitors from an operator’s point of view are those from the Northern Hemisphere. They spend more; and are more likely to go to the outer islands. Someone from Europe travelling to Rarotonga is 13 times more likely to visit Atiu than someone from New Zealand. The ideas to boost tourist numbers keep coming. And, as over the last three decades, if one idea doesn’t work, Roger will calmly set to work on the next. “Island life is like that. When something fails, try, try again. I’ve always enjoyed that part.”
Phone. (682)33041 | Email. marshall@atiutours.co.ck | Web. atiutoursaccommodation.com
Atiu Tours ’
Atiu B&B Jeanne’s Art
Enjoy personalised bed & breakfast service plus the luxury of a comfortable home away from home. Lunch, dinner & vehicle hire also available.
Irresistible images of Cook Islands flora & fauna
- available from Atiu, Koru Café Aitutaki, Island Living Rarotonga. Email: jeannehumphreysart@gmail.com
Marshall’s Discovery Island Tour, Anatakitaki Kopeka Bird Caves, Rimarau Burial Cave. Secluded beaches, tropical rainforest, amazing caves, rich bird life, fascinating archeology & legends.
u i t A as l l i V
Atiu is an exciting eco island adventure you shouldn’t miss. Make this a prime destination or stop off on your way to, or from Aitutaki for a little extra airfare. Stay in comfort at Atiu Villas, the island’s most experienced hosts. Amenities and services include a licensed restaurant and bar, swimming pool, tennis court, tour packages, rentals and free Wi-Fi for emails.
Book online at: www.atiuvillas.com Ph. (682) 33 777 | Fax. (682) 33 775 | Email. roger@atiuvillas.com | www.atiu.info
ATIU COFFEE
Atiu Fibre Arts Studio traditional and contemporary textile art www.atiu-fibrearts.com
Atiu
Guesthouse
Step off the beaten track. Visit the Atiu Coffee Factory and plantations. Taste our organically-grown and sun-dried Arabica coffee. www.atiu-coffee.com
Stay at Atiu Guesthouse and become part of village life on our secluded island. ESCAPE • 83 www.atiu-guesthouse.com
OUR
South Pacific HOME
a
sprinkling of island gems on an indigo blue ocean... The Cook Islands combined make up a land area of just 240 square kilometers. They are scattered far and wide in the vast expanse of the South Pacific Ocean, covering a total area of 2.25 million square kilometers. Each of these ‘gems’ is unlike any other; all having their own special characteristics and every one offering a warm welcome to visitors.
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The Southern Group Atiu See our story on page 80. Takutea Just a few miles off the coast of Atiu lies the uninhabited island of Takutea. Numerous seabirds thrive on this pristine island that has been declared a bird sanctuary by the Atiu Island Council. Only they can give permission for visitors to land there.
Mauke The garden island of the Cook group, Mauke is 18 kilometres around. It is surrounded by makatea (fossilised coral) with a volcanic plateau in the centre. Parts of the foreshore are dotted with isolated white sandy coves and caves that one can swim in. Inland there are fresh water caves and the famous Motuanga Cave that has galleries reaching beneath the reef. The reef is so close to the foreshore that crashing white breakers are visible from most of the unsealed coral road that runs around the island. Do visit the “divided church” built where the villages of Ngatiarua and Areora meet. Shared by the two villages, it has two separate entrances and sitting areas. There are clean and comfortable places to stay in Mauke - try Ri’s Retreat or Tiare Holiday Cottages. They can also organise cave, reef and forest tours. Be sure to obtain a garland of the fragrant maire, a creeper that grows along the makatea. It is gathered by the women and exported to Hawaii. Mauke is picturesque, unhurried and tranquil – a wonderful tonic for frayed nerves! Mitiaro See our feature story on page 42 Mangaia Imagine visiting a fairly large island where you and maybe a handful of others are the only tourists? Mangaia is an island
opposite page: Mauke above: Mangaia
of incredible, serene beauty – from its rugged coastline to the lush, green interior. It is peaceful beyond belief for those accustomed to the constant rush and haste of the outside world. This is a place where one can trek for miles along the coast or in the interior and not meet another soul or hear a vehicle. Nor see any dwellings, just lots of well-tended plantations of pineapples, vegetables, taro, kumara and other crops. Deep-sea fishing excursions are available
– just ask your host Jan Kristensson of Ara Moana Bungalows or Ura, who manages Babe’s Motel. They can also steer you in the right direction for guided tours that include caving, reef/lagoon walks and bush walks. Check out the market on Friday mornings in the ‘town’ centre and the craftwork by the skilled Mangaian women. The shell necklaces and woven pandanus bags are labour intensive and sold for very reasonable prices. Mangaia is the destination for those who love the outdoors, appreciate peace and quiet and want to experience a friendly island that’s not in the least “touristy.”
Ever wanted to run away? To get lost on a deserted island? To hide out with a group of friends and stay as long as you want? Why not charter your own plane and explore the magnificent outer islands of the Cooks.*
Plaonur y
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own
Call our Travel Centre on 22-888 and we’ll help you escape!
Optional extras include:
Inflight catering Experienced tour guide Ground tours & sightseeing Overnight adventure accommodation in the far north to luxury resorts on breath-taking Aitutaki
* We also offer charters
Island E scape
to Niue and Tahiti
www.airraro.com
left: Penrhyn below: Manihiki
The Northern Group Suwarrow Suwarrow is one of the few "untouched" sanctuaries left in the world where existing endangered species can survive. The Suwarrow National Park is the first National Park in the Cook Islands - international environmental groups recognise the group of tiny atolls as an untouched haven and breeding area for turtles, sea birds and crabs. Because of the lack of human intervention, Suwarrow is acknowledged as one of the most important sea bird breeding areas in the Pacific. A caretaker and his family live on Suwarrow during the cyclone off-season, between April and November each year. Yachts often visit the island during these months. Suwarrow was made famous by New Zealand hermit Tom Neale, who lived there during the early 1950’s and again in the early 1960’s. He wrote about his experiences in his book “An Island to Oneself.”
Palmerston Made famous by Englishman William Marsters, who settled there in 1863 with three wives. He later married and raised a large family. Marsters’ modern day descendents are scattered all over the world. About 60 still remain in Palmerston, which has six motu or islets in a big blue lagoon about 11 km across. The family exports fish, supplying in particular, parrot fish to Rarotonga restaurants. Palmerston hosts the occasional cruise ship and yachts frequently call in. The island also boasts one of the world’s most isolated bars, where thirsty yachties can enjoy a “cold one” and hear tales being regaled by the islanders. It is 500 km NW of Rarotonga.
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Manuae Manuae is an uninhabited nature reserve and an important seabird and turtle breeding ground. Its two islets in a large shallow lagoon make-up this incredibly beautiful island, situated about 100 km SE of Aitutaki. Many Aitutakians can claim traditional land rights to parts of Manuae. Once inhabited by work gangs of Cook Islands men who produced copra, it is now only occasionally visited by Aitutaki fisherman for its rich fishing grounds outside and within the lagoon. It is possible to view Manuae from the air, on a flight from Atiu to Aitutaki.
Pukapuka Lying northwest 1150 km from Rarotonga, Pukapuka is one of the most isolated islands of the Cook group. One interisland flight from Rarotonga about every six weeks and irregular shipping has kept Pukapuka one of the most untouched and secluded places in the Pacific. Its remoteness has also kept the traditions and culture of Pukapuka largely unchanged for centuries. Islanders speak the distinct Pukapukan language as well as Cook Islands Maori. According to legend, almost 500 years ago the Pukapuka population was almost entirely wiped out during a catastrophic storm that struck the island. Fourteen people survived, from whom Pukapukan’s today are said to descend. The late American writer Robert Dean Frisbie settled there in 1924 and immortalised Pukapuka in the books he wrote about life on the
island. The now uninhabited area where he lived with his Pukapuka wife and children is one of the most beautiful – an untouched white sandy beach with palm trees reaching out to tease the clear blue lagoon. Nassau Access to this tiny island of about 80 Pukapukans can only be gained by interisland boat. Regarded as the sister island of Pukapuka, a voyage from Rarotonga takes about three days. The islanders are adept at surviving an isolated lifestyle that remains unchanged year after year. Nassau was hooked up to the country’s telephone system only in 2001 and many of the people had never used a telephone before. Just 1.2 sq. km in size, where families live in kikau thatched cottages. Manihiki The cultured black pearl capital of the Cook Islands. Quality black pearls become centrepieces for fine jewellery that are worn by women and men all over the world. In 1997, the island survived one of
the worst cyclones in Cook Islands history. It claimed 20 lives after a tidal wave swept men, women and children out into the huge, raging lagoon. Pearl farms dot this remarkable lagoon. Villagers use small outboard boats to travel between Tukao and Tauhunu – two villages on separate islets – or to their pearl farms set up on coral outcrops. Some of the pearl farms are sophisticated operations jutting out of the deep blue lagoon, complete with small gardens and poultry farms that help support workers who live in modern quarters. Manihiki women have made history for entering what was once a male dominated vocation. A number of women own and manage their own pearl farms, diving, seeding and cleaning the oyster shells all year around. The women are also renowned for their finely woven craftwork. Manihiki is astonishingly beautiful and those who have been fortunate enough to visit the island, have never been disappointed.
Penrhyn Penrhyn (or Tongareva) is the most remote of the Cook group, lying 1365 km NNE of Rarotonga. It has a remarkable blue water lagoon measuring 233 sq km. A 77-km coral reef encircles the islets in the extraordinary lagoon. The villages of Tetautua and Omoka are on different islets that are barely visible to each other. Penrhyn island women make the finest rito craftwork in the Cook Islands. Hats, bags, fans and mats made in Penrhyn are amongst the best to be found anywhere in the world. Rakahanga Sister island of Manihiki and 42km north-west. Visits to Rakahanga are only possible by boat from Manihiki or interisland vessel. There are two main islands and seven islets in the Rakahanga lagoon. The island is picturesque and unspoiled.
www.cookislands.travel ESCAPE • 87
great places to stay
r
elax by the pool with a tropical cocktail, soak up the sun, rejuvenate your soul, and luxuriate in the warmth of a romantic evening under the stars, with exotic foods and fine wine. Whatever your Cook Islands holiday dream consists of, you can be sure there is a style of accommodation to suit your taste and attentive staff to make all those dreams come true. From deluxe beach resorts to simple budget facilities, you can choose your own standard or quality and plan according to your budget. Here on these pages, we bring you some of the nicest places to stay on Rarotonga.
happy holidays! Rarotonga’s best kept secret!
PARADISE INN “Aere mai” to Paradise Inn - an historic oceanfront haven for travellers.
18 self-catering air conditioned villas set amongst tropical gardens and across the road from its own stunning beach and reserve. Ideal for couples and families.
The Inn is ideally located within minutes of the busy town centre of Avarua with sixteen self contained units offering a relaxed “home away from home” feeling. Enjoy uninterrupted views over the ocean and balmy tropical breezes on the terrace, a perfect place to while away your leisure hours in the sun or under the moonlight. Contact us for the best value for money accommodation in Paradise.
Ph (682) 20544 | Fax (682) 28544 | paradise@oyster.net.ck
www.paradiseinnrarotonga.com
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E: reservations@lagoonbreezevillas.com p: +68 2 22020 • f: +68 2 22021 www.lagoonbreezevillas.com
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Contact us now at: culture@tevaranui.co.ck | www.tevaranui.co.ck Great value, idyllic location, gorgeous white sandy beach, perfect for the family... Enquire now for competitive rates at our popular motel and private holiday homes.
Achrsoi’dae Inn
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Beachfront accommodation | Self contained Swimming & snorkelling at your doorstep On the western, leeward side of Rarotonga Tropical breakfasts | Daily sunsets ‘The Shipwreck Hut’ PHONE (682) 23537 ACCOMMODATION@PUAIKURA.CO.CK WWW.PUAIKURA.CO.CK
Phone 22166 www.aroabeach.com
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Casual diners welcome • 89 For Reservations Phone ESCAPE +(682) 22 461
COOK ISLANDS
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Hotels, Resorts, Beach Bungalows and Holiday Homes at reduced rates Aitutaki and Outer Islands travel packages Fast reliable and friendly service Great value Centrally located in the heart of town next to Western Union Your one stop shop for travel, foreign exchange and money transfers
Phone (682) 27707 | Fax (682) 28807 Email Jetsave@cooks.co.ck www.jetsave.co.ck
on the beach Kia Orana Stay at Rarotonga’s friendliest hostel. Relax on the beach or by the pool and enjoy our famous Cook Islands hospitality. • On the beach • Free airport pickup (international only) • Fully equipped kitchen/laundry • Friendly staff • Fun organised nights out • Clean and tidy • Television, DVD and internet • Swimming pools at both sites • Dorms, singles, twins, doubles • Bungalows, beach houses and studios
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Enjoy our hospitality
Phone: (682) 21590 Email: stay@rarotongabackpackers.com www.rarotongabackpackers.com
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Your Cook Islands accommodation and travel specialists
ont Prime beachfr location!
MURI BEACH CLUB HOTEL
Situated in the heart of popular Muri Beach, our 22 tastefully furnished spacious units & villas are air-conditioned & self-catering. Complimentary kayaks, SUP’s, snorkelling gear, transfers; plus friendly staff will ensure you have a memorable ‘Rarotongan’ experience.
P. 682 21 022
www.beachcomber.co.ck | muri@beachcomber.co.ck
Retreat, Relax, Revive... in chic sophistication
Motel Conveniently situated just 2 kilometres from the centre of Avarua, with shopping, restaurants and attractions nearby, our motel provides self-contained, comfortable accommodation at the most affordable rates. Overlooking the ocean, we offer a choice of 24 spacious rooms, Budget, Standard and Deluxe, all with full kitchens and separate en-suite bathrooms. Our family units have separate bedrooms. We also have two beach bungalows situated on the western side of the island.
Your home away from home!
This perfect getaway retreat is privately owned and operated with relaxation, privacy and guest satisfaction as its primary objective. Suitable for persons 18 years and over only
tel: (682) 21937 fax: (682) 22937 email: relax@kiikiimotel.co.ck www.kiikiimotel.co.ck
email: info@muribeachclubhotel.com ph: (682) 23 000 www.muribeachclubhotel.com
ESCAPE • 91
entertainment guide
Tamanu Beach, Aitutaki
Shimmering silver lagoon, sunsets pink and purple, orange and blue; a long cool cocktail, friendly locals, soft island music; yes Rarotonga is definitely the place to be.
CORUBA
ABSOLUTE
JOHNNIE WALKER
JACK DANIELS
VILLA MARIA
WOLF BLASS
TIA MARIA
McGUIGANS
CASTLEMAN XXXX
Take in the sunset with a cocktail near the water; catch an Island Night Show with beautiful dancers, and get down to live local Cook Islands music and dancing all around town. By now you may have seen our “ura” (local dance) or taken a dance lesson or two at your hotel/resort, now it’s time to put it all into practice and shake those hips all around town; you’ll have some strong competition from the locals as well. Raro’s night life is special – you can have a great night out whether you’re on your own, or with friends. 18 or 80 years old, it doesn’t matter, everyone just gets together. And you’ll feel welcome wherever you go. Island Night Shows are a must for every visitor. There is nothing better than seeing our beautiful men and women, adorned in flowers and local costume, dancing to the wonderful pate (hollowed wooden drums), ukulele, guitar, and full voiced singers. It is a joyful, sensual and exuberant experience. Check out our Island Night Shows Guide on these pages to find a venue to suit you.
During the week On Monday night at the RSA (or “Razza”), just opposite the Airport, DJ MacDad gets
BOMBAY SAPPHIRE
ALLAN SCOTT
DELEGATS
DRAMBUIE
TOOHEYS
BACARDI
OYSTER BAY
VB
a great crowd going at around 9pm till 12 midnight. It’s a blast for everyone and you can take advantage of the complimentary bus service to get you back home. Tamarind House Restaurant, Windjammer Restaurant and a number of other Rarotonga restaurants feature live music during the week - refer to our Night Life Guide for details of what’s on, when and where. It’s great to wander into some of our smaller local bars too - the Game Fishing Club is right on the water; meet the locals and play some pool. For some of the best fish and chips on the island, try their Flying Boat Takeaway. Chillies Bar is great for a cold beer and the sounds of a live group playing a great mix of country/rock and local music, and occasionally some footie watching on their big screen. Both of these bars are just east of town. The Nu Bar is a wonderful little local bar/restaurant near the airport, serving great value food and there’s always a nice selection of music. Also try Hideaway Bar in Cooks Corner, for a more eclectic feel. On the eastern side of the island, the Avana Game Fishing Club has the perfect backdrop for a cold beverage and local ambience.
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Over 600 wines, all popular brand spirits, liqueurs, beers, RTD’s, mixers, ice, etc. Wedding and special occasion catering, party-hire, we deliver! In central Avarua, opposite Punanga Nui Marketplace. Open Mon - Thur 9 to 5 | Fri & Sat 9 to 7 Phone: 21007 Email: trish@thebond.co.ck
YOur NO.1 cellarS 92 • ESCAPE
We’ve got them all!
Check out the local paper or ask your resort what’s happening at the local sports clubs – join in for some good live music, cheap drinks, and great company. Local women enjoy dressing up, and the men prefer comfortable shorts, shirt/t-shirt and sandals, but dress code is open. Don’t forget your ‘ei (flower garland) or a flower behind the ear, (both men and women enjoy wearing flowers here in paradise). Remember that it pays to make a reservation if visiting a restaurant, to avoid disappointment; and if you want music with your meal, ask who their resident singer is that night.
Friday Night Friday night is party night, as clubs and bars can open until 2am, unlike every other night, which is 12 midnight. Downtown Avarua is a great place to start: First up is a sunset cocktail at either Trader Jacks, or at Whatever Bar where there’s always a nice mix of locals and tourists. After a couple of hours, walk across the road to the Garden Bar at the BC (Banana Court), known all over the Pacific. BC’s Garden Bar features local bands from 4pm to 9pm and then its inside for some raw local music and dancing. Trader Jack’s ‘Boogieman’ band, with some of our best musos on the island, starts around 8pm. Hidies Bar, located in Cooks Corner, comes alive with DJ Marama playing the latest sounds. Later in the night it’s back to Whatever Bar for some dancing, or perhaps try Rehab (near Whatever Bar), for some of the latest hip hop, R’n’B, and techno sounds or back to Jacks for a great end to the evening. The great thing about this town is that the bars are only minutes away from each other, so it’s easy to park up and walk. It’s safe and people are friendly and will give you directions. Remember to organise a dedicated driver or taxi if you’re drinking, because you may be breathalysed on your return home. An organized Nightlife Tour is another great way to enjoy your Friday night and you won’t need to do the driving. The Edgewater Resort & Spa and The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa both run their own legendary ‘Pub Crawls’. Be sure to book a day in advance to avoid disappointment. The usual route is a stop in Arorangi at the Tumunu Restaurant & Garden Bar, then a round at the Roadhouse Bar; a visit to the Golf Club for a Lion Red; pick up your tiare maori flower and a drink at the RSA; a quick round and a tall tale at the Fishing Club; a short stopover at Hideaway Bar and then off to either Trader Jacks, Whatever Bar, Rehab, Staircase Restaurant & Bar, or BC to dance the night away. If you’re staying on the East side around Muri, or in the Titikaveka area, try Silver Sands Restaurant at Muri Beach Club Hotel, Sails Restaurant, Flame Tree Restaurant for a la carte dining and some local music, or perhaps Pacific Resort for their Island Night show. Remember you’re in Raro now, on ‘Island Time’, so relax and enjoy.
ESCAPE • 93
entertainment guide
Rarotonga night-life guide
Keep our roads safe if you’re drinking: Dial a driver: 55580 / 55512 / 55515 Taxis: Refer yellow pages and book homecoming fare before you go out. Clockwise Bus: Evening bus departs Cook’s Corner clockwise only, every hour Monday to Thursday and Saturday from 6pm to 11pm. Friday evenings from 6pm to 10pm and 12 midnight to 2am.
Island Night Shows – Quick Guide
MONDAY Crown Beach Resort& Spa: Te Rau Maire dance troupe / Island Feast and Cultural Show RSA (“The Razza”): Local DJ / Pumping dance music from 9pm
Wednesday Highland Paradise 21924 The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa 25800 Puffy’s, Aitutaki 31317
Thursday Crown Beach Resort & Spa Staircase Restaurant & Bar Te Vara Nui Village Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa, Aitutaki Tamanu Beach, Aitutaki
23953 22254 24006 31203 31810
Friday Club Bana Bistro Highland Paradise Pacific Resort Rarotonga Pacific Resort, Aitutaki
23236 21924 20427 31720
Saturday Edgewater Resort & Spa Manuia Beach Boutique Hotel Te Vara Nui Village
25435 22461 24006
Remember you’re in Raro now, on ‘Island Time’, so relax and enjoy!
Pacific Resort: Leilani & Co on keyboard & guitar Originals, classics & soulful r’n’b
Pacific Resort: Papa Jake, Danny Mataroa and Te Korero Maori Dance Troupe - Polynesia Night Show & Dinner, on the beach
Staircase Bar & Restaurant: Island Night Feast & Cultural Show
Aro’a Beachside Inn: Garth Young on keyboard Great beachside BBQ and classic tunes
Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and Over Water Night Show & Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & island/western fusion buffet Te Vaka Restaurant @ The RarotonganBeach Resort & Spa: Reef & Beef night, with mellow musical accompaniment by Andre Tapena. Windjammer Restaurant: First class dining with piano by Garth Young
Bluewater Grill @ Sanctuary Rarotonga-onthe-beach: Live entertainment with Tara Kauvai
Whatever Bar: Great value meals with local music
Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live Band A la carte menu with live entertainment
FRIDAY
Edgewater Resort& Spa: Ta’akoka Dance Troupe / Island NightBuffet and Cultural show
Cafe Salsa: Live entertainment with great music & fabulous food
Manuia Beach Boutique Hotel: Island Night cultural show and island feast
Club Bana Bistro: Island Night Buffet & Show
Muri Beach Club Hotel: Freddie B A la carte and mix of local and classic melodies Pacific Resort: A la carte dining & live music with guest artist Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Spices of Asia Mongolian BBQ and crab racing Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and Over Water Night Show &Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & island/western fusion buffet
WEDNESDAY Crown Beach Resort & Spa @ Tangs Tapa Lounge: Tasty tapas & live groovy music
Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live Band T-Bone Steak Night with live entertainment Edgewater Resort & Spa: Tok 6:30–8:30 Dining with great local music + Edgewater Resorts “Nitelife Tour” Garden Bar - Banana Court: Great local & upbeat music with bar snacks available Highland Paradise: ‘Drums of our Forefathers’ Island night show and feast Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights Pacific Resort:Tamariki Manuia Island Night Show on the beach Rehab: Boogie night with local DJ. Hip-hop, R’n’B, Techno
Edgewater Resort & Spa: Local Band A la carte Seafood menu with local entertainment
Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Flame Grill Steak Night & bingo / The Rarotongan’s famous funbus ‘Friday Nitelife Tour’
Highland Paradise: ‘Drums of our Forefathers’ Island night show and feast
Trader Jacks: Boogieman - rock classics & seafood, steaks & pizza
Muri Beach Club Hotel: Pub Night menu with entertainment
Whatever Bar: Live Band & DJ T. Bone steak, fish, burgers
Pacific Resort: A la carte dining & live music with guest artist Whatever Bar: Local string band 7-9pm
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Garden Bar - Banana Court: Live Entertainment
Muri Beach Club Hotel: Tara Kauvai Powerful voice - local & classic tunes
Monday Phone
25435 24006 31526
Edgewater Resort & Spa: Ru & Boys A la carte menu with great local sounds
Muri Beach Club Hotel: Seafood Night with mixed melodies by Rangi Henry
TUESDAY
Edgewater Resort & Spa Te Vara Nui Village Samade on the Beach, Aitutaki
Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Akirata dance troupe / Island Night Show & Dinner
Edgewater Resort& Spa: Tok 6:30-8:30 Great Classic tunes, jazz, pop, rock
Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: Seafood Night with entertainment
Tuesday
Aro’a Beachside Inn: Sunset cocktails with live music by Rudy Aquino
Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights
The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Fire Dance Show and Island BBQ
23953 20427 25800
Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: Pub Night menu with live entertainment
Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week / Live music some nights
(Bookings are recommended)
Crown Beach Resort & Spa Pacific Resort Rarotonga The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa
THURSDAY
SATURDAY
Edgewater Resort & Spa: Ru & Boys -local string band
Aroa Beachside Inn: Great Seafood Beachside BBQ & the island music of Papa Jake Numanga
Muri Beach Club Hotel: Grill Night with Jake Numanga. He serenaded you at the airport!
Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live Entertainment A la carte menu with local & classic tunes Edgewater Resort& Spa: Island Night Buffet & Cultural Show with Orama Dance Group
Pacific Resort: Fine dining with local and mixed melodies by Thomas Rauru Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Sunday Carvery Roast with Tok on guitar
Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights Muri Beach Club Hotel: A la carte menu with a mix of local and classic melodies Pacific Resort: Tok 6:30-8:30 Great Classics, jazz, rock, r’n’b Rehab: DJ. Hip hop, R’n’B’, dance night Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and Over Water Night Show & Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & island/western fusion buffet Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Firedance Show & Island Barbeque + Karaoke Whatever Bar: Scrumptuous menu with live music by local string band
Bluewater Grill @ Sanctuary Rarotonga-onthe-beach: Live entertainment with Tara Kauvai Club Raro: BBQ night with local string band Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Roast Night with live entertainment
Puffy’s Bar: Island Night and party the night away. The Boatshed Bar & Grill: Check out this popular restaurant any day of the week. A-lacarte menu for lunch & dinner. Great cocktails!
THURSDAY
MONDAY
FRIDAY
Bounty Brasserie @ Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa: Fire dance show, a la carte dinner & crab races
Aitutaki Game Fishing Club: One of the most popular local bars to visit for a sun-downer
Tupuna’s Restaurant: Great a-la-carte dining with the freshest local foods in a relaxed garden setting. Mon-Sat from 6pm
Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa: Seafood Night with delicious local catch and great ambience
Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: BBQ with live entertainment
Pacific Resort: Fire dancing show – fabulous a la carte menu
Aitutaki night-life guide
TUESDAY
SUNDAY
Flying Boat Beach Bar & Grill @ Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa: Live entertainment with Greig Mose
Samade OnThe Beach: Island buffet and cultural show on the sandy beach at Ootu
Tamanu Beach: Island Fire & Dance Show on the beach. Fantastic entertainment with a great selection of food
Flying Boat Beach Bar & Grill @ Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa: Live entertainment with Greig Mose Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa: Funbus Nightlife Tour Pacific Resort Aitutaki: Island Night & Show With great local entertainment and food
SUNDAY Samade On The Beach: Barbeque with great entertainment
WEDNESDAY Aitutaki Game Fishing Club: A good evening to visit and meet the locals. Where else would you find a bar in a 20 foot container?
Tamanu Beach: Sunset Barbeque Night with greatlocal entertainment and island food
Prices or schedules are subject to change at any time.
check out the amazing at Muri Lagoon An effortless way to have fun while exploring Muri Lagoon. A great platform for swimming and snorkelling. Each Treddlecat is equipped with an anchor and dry stowage places, so you can take a picnic, dry clothes, camera etc with you. Check it out on the beach at Muri Beach Club Hotel. A 16 ft sailing dingy also available for competent sailors plus lessons for novices
Ensure you get your ride when you want it...
pH Ken on 26668 | EMAiL upwind@oyster.net.ck ESCAPE • 95
what's on
t
hroughout the year we find many reasons to celebrate and have fun, and there’s always plenty to do and see on Rarotonga and her sister islands. As most Cook Islanders are willing sports participants, you’ll find a multitude of sports codes and clubs active throughout the islands, where you are always welcome to visit. As for festivals and celebratory events, it is certain that you will always find something of interest taking place.
July Fri 6th ‘Ra o te Ui Ariki’ – public holiday Thu 19th Atiu Gospel Day – public holiday Atiu Ministry of Education Careers Expo 2012 Fri 20th School Term 2 complete – School Holidays begin Sat 21st Mitiaro Gospel Day – public holiday Mitiaro Mon 23rd Mauke Gospel Day – public holiday Mauke Wed 25th Rarotonga Gospel Day – public holiday Rarotonga Thu 26th to Sat 4th August Te Maeva Nui Celebrations 2012 commences Fri 27th Te Maeva Nui float parade - downtown Avarua
August Sat 4th Constitution Day Sat 4th to Mon 6th Constitution Rugby 7’s Tournament Mon 6th National Self Governing Commemorative Day – public holiday Constitution Day Rugby 7’s Tue 7th School Term 3 begins
Wed 8th Manihiki Gospel Day – public holiday Manihiki Sat 11th to Sat 18th Walk on Water Week An annual celebration of Stand Up Paddleboarding Wed 15th Rakahanga Gospel Day – public holiday Rakahanga
September
November Thu 1st Turama – All Souls Day Thu 1st to Sat 3rd ‘Sevens in Heaven’ C.I. Rugby Union International Rugby 7’s Fri 16th to Fri 23rd Vaka Eiva 2012 Canoeing Festival
December
Sun 2nd Fathers Day
Sat 1st Te Mire Tiare Flower Festival commences with float Parade downtown Avarua
Sat 22nd Round Rarotonga Road Race Rugby Union 15’s Grand Finals
Tue 4th to Sun 9th National Tennis Championships
October
Thu 6th Pukapuka Gospel Day – public holiday Pukapuka
Sat 1st Rarotonga Club Rugby 7’s starts Fri 5th School Term 3 complete – School Holidays begin Thu 11th Te Maire Tama 2012 @ the National Auditorium Miss Tiare pageant & Young Warriors competition Mon 15th School Term 4 begins Thu 25th Aitutaki Gospel Day – public holiday Aitutaki Fri 26th National Gospel Day – public holiday
Fri 14th School Term 4 complete – School Holidays begin Tue 25th Christmas Day Wed 26th Boxing Day Thu 27th Christmas Period Holiday
January 2013 Tue 1st New Years Day – public holiday Wed 2nd New Year observed – public holiday
N.B. All events take place on Rarotonga, unless stated otherwise. Dates and events are provided courtesy of Cook Islands Tourism Corporation and are subject to change without notice. Visitors are advised to confirm event dates with the Visitor Information Centre – phone (682) 29435, or by email: lydia@cookislands.gov.ck
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FOUR EVENTS THAT YOU SHOULDN’T MISS… Miss Tiare Competition
Te Maeva Nui – celebrating our nation’s independence
theatre), Kapa Rima (action song) and Ura Pa’u (drum dance). And, it is the thrill of anticipation that excites the local audience – what new dances, costumes, songs and chants are in store?
Every year from June to August about 2000 people on Rarotonga and on the outer islands put their lives on hold to prepare for Te Maeva Nui, the national culture and dance festival. It is a weeklong cultural marathon held around the date of August 4th, which is the birthday of the Cook Islands as an independent nation.
You may have seen cultural dance shows around the island, or perhaps in your resort, but you haven’t seen anything that even closely resembles the vibrancy and passion of the finals at Te Maeva Nui, held in the National Stadium. This is the cultural highlight of the Cook Islands year; the only people who are ever disappointed are those who miss it.
Whilst each year in April, solo dancers compete for the title of ‘Dancer of the Year’, it is the big dance teams from different islands and districts who challenge each other during Te Maeva Nui. It is an intense competition, which requires energy and dedication from a large percentage of the Cook Islands population. For five nights the exuberant performances become a vibrant testimony of the passionate commitment Cook Islanders have to their dance and culture. The dynamic drum dance is the favourite of most locals and visitors, but each team competes in four disciplines in total: Ute (song-chant), Pe’e (chant and
Te Mire Tiare flower festival This happy and colourful festival is held every year in December and usually features a different theme each year. There are competitions for the best floral decorated shops, schools and government buildings, each one on a different day of the week long festivities. Locals also vie for the honour of making the best head or neck ‘ei (garland), best pot plant and much more.
The glamorous focal point to the week is undoubtedly the ‘Miss Tiare’ competition which sees attractive young ladies competing for this prestigious title. The first appearance of the contestants is usually at the Punanga Nui marketplace on the first Saturday of the festival; the weeks wraps up with a colourful float parade and crowning of Miss Tiare on the following Saturday.
Vaka Eiva Hundreds of paddlers and their supporters hit Rarotonga’s shores in November each year for the Steinlager Vaka Eiva; an exciting and fun outrigger canoeing festival, which is now the largest sporting event in the country. While the rugby 7s festival generates plenty of excitement in these rugby mad islands, there’s no doubt the influx of paddlers and supporters to the island hypes things up even more for the exciting week of Vaka Eiva activities; and oe vaka is fast establishing itself as one of the largest and most popular sporting codes in the country.
Six newly established and stylish Polynesian Villas of supreme quality are perched on the north-western shoreline, affording stunning views of the ocean and spectacular sunsets. Each villa features authentic Mangaia limestone exterior and interior with stunning hard-wood floors, fully equipped kitchen, stylish tiled bathroom and comfortable queen size bedroom. Meals are available on request.
Mangaia - a unique holiday experience. T: (682) 29882 E: villas@mangaia.net.ck
Discover the beauty of Mangaia
| www.mangaiavillas.com
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What makes it even more special, is that outrigger canoeing is one of the few traditional Polynesian sports that have survived the test of time, plus it has strong cultural significance and roots in the Pacific islands. Vaka Eiva is a festival promoting both competition and the culture of oe vaka. Held annually since 2004, Vaka Eiva has established a reputation as a hugely enjoyable week of racing, culture, and festivities, and attracts crews from throughout the world. There’s an air of festivity on the island the whole week long, from the opening ceremony, throughout the week of racing and social activities, to the wrap up paddler’s party at Trader Jack’s waterfront bar. Trader Jack is one sponsor who has been involved from the start and this is the hangout of choice for paddlers and spectators throughout the week, giving close views of the start and finish of the ocean races.
The International Cook Islands Kitesurfing Competion In June some of the biggest names in kitesurfing will head to the Cook Islands to vie for the top spot at the international kitesurfing competition on Aitutaki. The Cook Islands Kitesurfing Association, in conjunction with the events team at Cook Islands Tourism, will manage this big event which promises to catapult the Cook Islands on to the international stage as a desirable kitesurfing destination. Last years inaugural event has already generated support for the association, which has been admitted as an official member of the International Kitesurfing Association. The competition will open with an exhibition event at Muri Lagoon, but the real competition kicks off at Motu Maina Iti on Aitutaki. Check with the Visitor Information Centre for dates.
Te Maeva Nui Festival
For more information and to confirm event dates, visitors are advised to contact the Visitor Information Centre – phone (682) 29435, or by email: lydia@ cookislands.gov.ck
www.cookislands.travel
Downtown Avarua Next to the ANZ Bank We’re here to help you! Advice on accommodation, tours, restaurants, activities, entertainment and travel to our other islands. Phone or call in to see us.
Open: Monday to Friday 8am - 4pm Saturday 9am - 12 noon Phone: (682) 29435 Email: headoffice@cookislands.travel
98 • ESCAPE
Head Office P.O. Box 14, Rarotonga, Cook Islands Phone: (682) 29435 Fax: (682) 21435 headoffice@cookislands.travel
New Zealand 1/127 Symonds St P.O. Box 37391 Auckland, New Zealand Phone: (09) 366 1106 Fax: (09) 309 1876
United Kingdom McCluskey International 4 Vencourt Place London W6 9NU Phone: (44) 20 8237 7979 Fax: (44) 20 8237 7999
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Northern Europe Fraunhofer Strasse 8 82152 Martinsried, Germany Phone: (49) 892 1909 6513 Mobile: (49) 173 592 9165
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USA 1334 Parkview Avenue Suite 300, Manhattan Beach CA 90266, USA Phone: (310) 545 4200 Fax: (310) 545 4221
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The rental car company operating to international standards.
• Hatchbacks
• Toyota Rav4 Jeeps
Aroa (across from The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa)
Ph: 29227 Ph: 26227 Ph: 23227 Ph: 25227 Ph: 24227 Ph: 21039
Phone 29227 Fax: 29228 Roadside Assistance (8am to 10pm) Ph 54325 Email: reservations@polynesianhire.co.ck
www.polynesianhire.co.ck
• Yamaha Nouvo 115cc 2 seater - fully auto • Hybrid Bicycles
Phone 29227 www.polynesianhire.co.ck
Printed in Korea
cook islands black pearls