TAKE ME HOME
I'M FREE
22
Te Toroka Kai The Palace of Pa Ariki Polynesian Pampering Celebrating 75 years of Sailing Chasing Aitutaki’s Elusive Bonefish
Rakahanga Serenely beautiful northern island
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One unforgettable Day “The view of the island from the plane was just spectacular.”
“I think we’d all forgotten how to relax, the cruise fixed that.”
“This tour was the highlight of our trip. We loved every minute of it.”
Flights depart daily (except Sundays) from Rarotonga Airport at 8.00am. Returns 5.30pm.
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“Once they found the fish the boys snorkelled for hours.”
For more information see our hotel tour desk or call our reservations centre (7 days) on 22-888.
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Aitutaki Cruising, swimming, snorkelling, relaxing over a barbequed lunch of freshly caught fish as you explore Aitutaki’s beautiful lagoon. A I R R A R O T O N G A’ S DAY T O U R I N C L U D E S : • Aitutaki island tour T H E VA K A C RU I S E • Island hopping • Delicious barbequed lunch served on-board • Complimentary towels and snorkelling equipment • Bathroom facilities • Round trip airfares from Rarotonga F RO M $459 P E R P E R S O N
CONTENTS Issue 22 January 2016
42
Up front
Tour of the Cook Islands
6
Introduction
11
An introduction to the Cook Islands
8
Contributors to this issue
22
Rarotonga
68
Aitutaki
80
Atiu
84
Southern & Northern Group Islands
Features 40 Rakahanga Our intrepid journalist Rachel Reeves discovers the magic of Rakahanga, one of our most remote, beautiful and inhabited northern islands. 48 The Palace of Pa Ariki All are welcome at Marie Pa Ariki’s chiefly palace not only a museum dedicated to the rich history of the Takitumu district, but also a centre of health and wellness. 52 Polynesian Pampering What better way to indulge blissfully while on holiday, but to spoil yourself in one of our local Spa’s. 55 A Little Bit Saucy Handcrafted sauces and preserves from the gardens and plantations of local farmers, brought to you by Trader Jacks. 56 Te Toroka Kai Trucking in flavoursome foods for easy access, Rarotonga’s first ever food truck is making good eating mobile and fun. 58 Celebrating 75 years of Sailing Responsible for training hundreds of our youth to sail, the Rarotonga Sailing Club, one of this country’s most successful, community spirited, sporting clubs celebrates its 75th birthday. 74 Chasing Aitutaki’s Elusive Bonefish Aitutaki’s lagoon is haven to some of the largest bonefish in the world and is establishing an international reputation with anglers. 82 A Diamond of a Lady Sandra Paterson talks to Jeanne Humphreys, whose life is as interesting and colourful as Atiu, the island she calls home.
4 • ESCAPE
58
Regulars 12 Art Scene An enchanting set of playing cards by well-known artist Joan Gragg will appeal to art lovers and card players alike. 16 Book Worms A review of topical authors and their books. 18 Raro Rhythm Meet ‘Trigger Fish’, the talented Cook Island’s duo of Maurice Newport and Kura Happ who are entertaining at venues throughout Rarotonga. 20
What’s in Store? Taking a look in shop windows.
28
Island Cuisine We visit local restaurants and share their best recipes.
66 Village Life Memories of life growing up in an island village brought to us by well known artist and story-teller Joan Gragg. 88
Great Places to Stay A guide to some of Rarotonga’s best accommodation.
92 ‘The Bond’ Entertainment Guide The inside story on the best clubs, island shows and nightlife. 96
What’s On? A calendar of events and holidays.
Front Cover: Felicia George - Miss Cook Islands 2015 Photo: Noel Bartley
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EDITOR'S Note Kia Orana!
publisher South Pacific Publishing Limited, Rarotonga editor Noel Bartley design Christina Thiele | Ultimo Group Auckland, New Zealand printed in Korea Tara TPS Ltd Seoul, Korea advertising director Noel Bartley regular contributors Rachel Reeves Glenda Tuaine Joan Gragg Jess Cramp Florence Syme-Buchanan advertising sales rarotonga Noel Bartley Phone: (682) 23449 or 54449 Email: advertise@escape.co.ck advertising sales new zealand Phone: 09 419 6416 Email: scenix@ihug.co.nz distribution rarotonga Denne Bourke Phone: (682) 76399 distribution aitutaki Annie Bishop Phone: (682) 31009 Email: bishopcruz@aitutaki.net.ck Escape is published bi-annually by South Pacific Publishing Limited P.O. Box 3010, Rarotonga, Cook Islands Email: advertise@escape.co.ck All contents of ESCAPE magazine are copyright of South Pacific Publishing Limited. Any reproduction of any part of this magazine without prior written permission is strictly prohibited.
Way back in 2003 I had this crazy idea of publishing a magazine about the Cook Islands. Given that we had no international airline of our own and therefore no in-flight magazine that we could show the world and brag about how wonderful our country was, it seemed like a good idea. And so, with encouragement from the Cook Islands Tourism Corporation, our first issue of Escape Magazine was launched in 2004, its format based very much on that in-flight idea. Today, eleven years and many accolades later, it is finally time for me to bid you farewell as I head, far too rapidly is seems, into my retirement years. Those eleven years have been a wonderful journey for me, during which I have met a vast number of wonderful Cook Islands people, made lifelong friends with many and also visited twelve of our fifteen beautiful islands. There are many people to thank for helping me along the way and making Escape Magazine the success it has become. Those who deserve a special mention are Ewan Smith of Air Rarotonga who not only encouraged the initial idea, but also adopted Escape as the Air Rarotonga in-flight magazine. Sincere thanks also to Ben Bergman of Bergman & Sons, Liz Raizis of The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa and Arthur Pickering of Polynesian Rental Cars for their participation as key advertisers over the years. To all who advertise within Escape Magazine I offer you my sincere thanks and gratitude. You have made this magazine viable. Your advertising dollar has made it possible for visitors and travel enthusiasts overseas alike, to read this publication for free; thereby promoting the Cook Islands and the attractions this fabulous little country has to offer them. My gratitude also goes to the several writers who have contributed great stories during the years, and especially to Florence Syme-Buchanan and Rachel Reeves who have been real stalwarts, on many occasions accompanying me on adventures to far flung islands. Thanks also to our readers and your many kind words of encouragement over the years. Escape Magazine now has new owners and I know that they are going to do a terrific job and not only look after “my baby” but bring exciting new developments to Escape Magazine in future issues. So please extend a big welcome to Stephen and Margaret Woulfe from New Zealand, an amiable couple who are now domiciled in Rarotonga, and whom I’m sure will become genuine ‘Cookies’ real soon. My wife Katrina and I intend to continue living in Rarotonga. I’m sure we will bump into you in a café in the not too distant future. Kia Manuia and Farewell Noel Bartley
6 • ESCAPE
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CONTRIBUTORS Rachel Reeves Born and raised in California, Rachel Michele Teana Reeves has Atiu roots on her father’s side. She moved to Rarotonga three years ago to get to know her Cook Islands heritage, and fell in love with the island and island life. This young and vibrant 24-year-old has a passion for writing and has also worked for Cook Islands News. Upon graduating from university, she taught English in Vietnam, Thailand and Nepal. Rachel enjoys being active – running, swimming, oe vaka, windsurfing, snowboarding – and reading. She is grateful to the people of the Cook Islands, who have welcomed her with warmth and the spirit of aloha.
Florence Syme-Buchanan Born and raised in the Cook Islands, freelance journalist Florence Tia Syme-Buchanan grew up swimming and playing in Muri lagoon. This magical part of Rarotonga is the foundation of her feature story in this issue about the Rarotonga Sailing Club’s 75 interesting years. Florence lives in her beloved village of Ngatangiia with husband Don, in a home built by her ancestors in 1871. Her two children, Fe’ena and Te Manava are studying in New Zealand and return home during the holidays for seafood, scooters and Muri beach.
Matariki Wilson Matariki is a proud born and raised Cook Islander. She grew up in the taro patches and pawpaw plantations of Titikaveka and has blood ties to the islands of Atiu and Mangaia. After university studies and working as a chef in New Zealand she returned home in 2005 and took up a cadet reporter role with Cook Islands News. Matariki’s passion is photographing her people, community events and sports. Nothing motivates Matariki more than national pride.
Alan Syme A secondary school teacher during working hours, after hours he can be found game fishing, surfing, playing sport, writing or spending time with his three children. He also is a senior writer for the NZ Fishing Coast to Coast Magazine. He enjoys visiting the Cook Islands as well as indulging himself in the wide range of outdoor activities that are available here.
Also Sandra Paterson, Glenda Tuaine, Nerys Case, Joan Gragg, Judith Kunzle, Peter Morse, Ewan Smith, Julian Zeman, and Noel Bartley.
8 • ESCAPE
Island Escape Forty years ago, an Air New Zealand DC10 arrived in Rarotonga carrying a youthful Australian family on the adventure of a lifetime. Disenchanted with the duties of a suburban housewife
As fate would have it, during the 1980’s a new industry
and never seeing a husband that worked 12-16 hour
was born on the Island of Manihiki, Black Pearls. Our family
shifts as an electrical engineer, my mother rebelled and
company evolved to include these stunning newcomers
escaped to the little known islands of the South Pacific with
and became the first local company to specialise in
a friend and mentor.
Black Pearl Jewellery.
Having previously visited Norfolk and Lord Howe Islands,
On the occasion of our 40th anniversary, I warmly
the duo arrived in Rarotonga. The effect was immediate
welcome you to our Cook Islands Black Pearl Jewellery
and my mother realised that she had found our new home.
stores on Rarotonga and Aitutaki to experience a part
Shortly thereafter, and to the chagrin of friends and
of our on-going family adventure.
neighbours, my family abandoned the suburbs of
I also take this opportunity to bid you Kia Orana and
Melbourne for an unknown future on an unknown Island.
welcome to my adopted home.
Since that time, my family has built a company specialising
My name is Ben Bergman, Pearl Jewellery Designer
in Cook Islands Pearls.
and Managing Director of Bergman & Sons,
Relocating to the northern group Island of Penrhyn for 5 years in 1976, my parents collected natural pearls for
Black Pearl Jewellers of the Cook Islands. Kia Manuia.
European and Asian markets.
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The Cook Islands
15 tiny islands in paradise, that a small nation calls home.
London Berlin Vancouver Rome Beijing
Seoul Tokyo Los Angeles Hong Kong Honalulu
Northern Group
Capetown
Perth
Sydney
Cook Islands Auckland
Southern Group
W
here would someone say, “may you live long,” upon meeting you for the first time, but in the Cook Islands.
The Cook Islands greeting Kia Orana, means exactly that, “may you live long.” It is a unique first gesture of friendship from a special Polynesian people, renown for their hospitality and warmth. It is as if God chose his 15 most precious gems, and then sprinkled them over 2.25 million sq km of the Pacific to become the Cook Islands – an ei (necklace) of islands awaiting to embrace all visitors. All the islands combined make up a land area of just 240 sq km. Each of the ‘gems’ is unlike the other and all have their own special features. From the majestic peaks of Rarotonga to the low-lying untouched coral atolls of the northern islands of Manihiki, Penrhyn, Rakahanga, Pukapuka, Nassau and Suwarrow. The latter, inhabited only by a caretaker and his family, is a popular anchorage for yachts from all over the world. The Southern Cooks is made up of the capital Rarotonga, Aitutaki, Atiu, Mangaia, Mauke, Mitiaro, Manuae, Palmerston and Takutea. Takutea is an uninhabited bird sanctuary and managed by the Atiu Island Council. Manuae is the remaining uninhabited island. Cook Islanders have their own Maori language and each of the populated islands a distinct dialect. It has a population of around
13,000. The Cooks has been self-governing in free association with New Zealand since 1965. By virtue of that unique relationship, all Cook Islanders hold New Zealand passports. The country is governed by 25-member Parliament elected by universal suffrage. The Cook Islands Parliamentary system is modelled on the Westminster system of Britain. The Queens Representative is Head of State. A House of Ariki (traditional paramount chiefs) counsels and advises government, as does the Koutu Nui, a body of traditional chiefs. This is a delightful Pacific country where the ‘metropolis’ of Rarotonga offers a wide range of activities, accommodation and cuisine and visitors can choose to be as busy as they wish. A short inter-island flight away are the less developed southern group islands each offering something different. Travelling to the isolated northern islands by inter-island flight or boat, one savours a South Pacific rarely seen by outsiders. Due to distance and infrequency of transport there are fewer visitors to the northern group islands. But wherever you turn you see bright tropical colours and movement, whether it is the sway of palms and sea in the trade winds, or dancers entertaining at one of the many nightspots found on Rarotonga and Aitutaki. While you may nearly always hear the ocean, you will always feel the warmth of the people and their tropical paradise. The Cook Islands truly is a slice of heaven.
ESCAPE • 11
art scene
Joan Gragg
PLAYING CARDS COOK ISLANDS STYLE story: Judith Kunzlé
12 • ESCAPE
A
year ago, I had lunch with fellow artist Joan Gragg at Tamarind House on Rarotonga, exchanging ideas while looking at the sparkling sea. Joan was eager to reveal a new idea. She sat up straight and declared: “I'm going to design a set of playing cards!” I had to laugh out loud Joan's work does that to you. It draws you right into the fun - and now also the games - of well observed Cook Islands life and culture. For over 30 years, Joan has recorded what Cook Islanders do, how they move, congregate, play, sing and celebrate. In earlier works she captured people on bikes with their babies, household items and garden equipment. In village scenes of an umukai (traditional feast prepared in an earth oven), there are dogs under the table and chickens scratching. Inspired by her many boat trips from Rarotonga to Manihiki, she had drawn and painted people playing cards from memory. There was no tediously painted ship environment. Instead she zoomed right in to where the action was, the
For over 30 years, Joan has recorded what Cook Islanders do, how they move, congregate, play, sing and celebrate. In earlier works she captured people on bikes with their babies, household items and garden equipment.
Playingof the Cardlsands
Cook Is
passengers with their intent and laughter, all expressed through very characteristic body language. Joan is an astute observer with a lot of experience of having fun local style. She grew up in Rarotonga, her mother was from the island of Palmerston. Her father from England had researched and introduced pearl farming in Manihiki. She has twin brothers and four sisters, all but one sister living in the Cook Islands. The Powell Sisters, as they are called, after their maiden names, are a famous and well respected team. They sailed and won competitions on Muri lagoon, and they watch the yearly dance competitions of
Novel, unique and appealingly attractive, this deck of cards features 54 art works by Joan Gragg. Joan’s art is influenced by everyday life in the Cook Islands. An ideal gift or souvenir! Available from: Beachcomber Pearl Market • Bounty Bookshop • Island Craft • Island Living • Perfumes of Rarotonga • The Art Studio • The Gift Shop
See Joan’s artwork at The Furniture Centre
ESCAPE • 13
Perfumes of Rarotonga
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Te Maeva Nui. You can see them debating the quality of the performances, seriously, but always laughing a lot. Now they have taken up playing bowls and you can bet they will soon be happily competing and rocking the establishment at the Rarotonga Bowling Club! The idea of Joan's set of playing cards with local icons was uplifting, like the presence of the Powell sisters at any Rarotonga event. Joan put her idea into action and at our next lunch together she showed me some of her artwork. The cards were hilarious – but at the same time, represented Cook Islands culture in detail. With her wit and great skill of observation, Joan has picked out the hallmarks of the
14 • ESCAPE
local scene and environment. She knows how to have fun inside out and this is evident with each single playing card. There are people dancing and singing, on bikes, there are friendly dogs, tropical flowers, lagoon fish and coconuts, all colour coded and marked with numbers and symbols, ready to enjoy. Joan’s Cook Islands Souvenir playing cards can be purchased at The Beachcomber, The Art Studio, Bounty Bookshop, Island Craft, Perfumes of Rarotonga, The Gift Shop and The Furniture Centre on Rarotonga. They come in a hard box containing 52 cards + Joker + extra card.
Polynesian Wedding Bands
Faithfulness
Happiness
Love
Monday - Friday 9am - 4pm | Saturday 9am - 12pm Main Road, Taputaputea | Phone. +682 21939 | Email. luke@bergmanandsons.com ESCAPE • 15
book worms
Sonja’s Kitchen Dee Pignéguy & Sonja Raela We all know that diet is one of the most important issues to address for sustained health and wellness. Simply put, eating more fruit and vegetables is one of the best things you and your family can do.
Say it in Rarotongan Mana Strickland This little book introduces readers to the common language throughout the Cook Islands. Author, Mana Strickland, was a leading authority on the Polynesian language and on the history of the Cook Islands. He had a distinguished record in the field of education, being a former principal of Rarotonga’s largest primary school, a senior teacher trainer at the Cook Islands Teachers College and also served as Minister for Education in the early years of self-government. His contribution to education and the community was recognised in 1989 when he was awarded the British Empire Medal (BEM) and again in 1995 when he was awarded an Honorary Masters Degree from the University of the South Pacific. One of Mana’s daughters, Tuaine has taken steps to republish this popular book after on-going requests. Available from Bounty Bookshop, Rarotonga
16 • ESCAPE
Beautifully presented with photographs from the island of Aitutaki, the tasty recipes in this book are based on ingredients available in your garden, or most supermarkets and fresh food stalls. These delectable dishes can be made in your own kitchen with very little effort and great nutritional reward for everyone. Most of the recipes use food with minimal processing. The tasty recipes include an array of herbs and vegetables that can be grown in an organic backyard, together with readily available tropical fruits and vegetables such as bananas, mangoes, papaya, taro, breadfruit and cassava. Foodie or Greenie, Sonja’s Kitchen will take you on an adventure to explore the delicious food of Aitutaki and the Cook Islands.
Matini Rachel Michele Teana Reeves On a Saturday evening 18 years ago, waves tall as the coconut trees broke over Manihiki, a sea-level coral atoll in the northernmost reaches of the Cook Islands. Cyclone Martin stole 19 people from a population of fewer than 700, and would become the most tragic natural disaster in the oceanic nation’s recorded history. Locals survived by tying their bodies and boats to coconut trees or taking shelter in homes with high foundations. Four people, including an eight-year-old girl, drifted in an aluminium boat for three nights and two days, using a sleeping bag for a sail and a plank of timber as a rudder. Using patterns in the sea and the sky as map and compass, they navigated to Rakahanga, a tiny island more than 40 kilometres away. In 2014, the board of the Cyclone Martin Charitable Trust, a not-for-profit organisation comprised of Manihiki people and Martin survivors, teamed up with Cook Islands News and its publisher to commission a book about Cyclone Martin.
Journalist Rachel Reeves, whose paternal heritage derives from the island of Atiu, interviewed survivors in New Zealand and the Cook Islands and wove their stories into an illustrated book called Matini.
Aitutaki, using some of the stunning images from his vast collection. Beautiful photographs leap out from every one of the 100 pages of each book, providing wonderful imagery of both Rarotonga and Aitutaki. Noel has captured well the country’s two most popular visitor destinations, the people, culture, and island life. Escape Magazine’s main contributing writer Florence SymeBuchanan provides an informative introduction to each book.
The 185-page book, expected to arrive in the Cook Islands mid-2015, is a harrowing account of what happened to Manihiki that night. It is a story of great pain, but also of incredible courage and strength. It is a story that will make you cry, renew your faith in humanity, inspire in you a great respect for the island people, and remind you to count your blessings.
These books rank amongst the best now available in terms of photographic quality. Retailing at around $39.90 they would also be the best in terms of value for money and certainly make wonderful souvenirs of the islands.
Matini is also a roadmap for emergency responders. It points out where the Cook Islands government went wrong and catalogues the consequences of its failures. Today, as the world contends with a changing climate and scientists predict that the intensity of cyclones will increase, it is vital that disaster managers, and indeed all of us, pay attention to the lessons Matini teaches.
Both titles are on sale at most retailers including CITC, Bounty Bookshop, Island Craft, Treasure Chest stores, Island Style, Beachcomber, Perfumes of Rarotonga and at some resorts.
Noel Bar tley has extensiv travelle ely as d and a pho worke publish tograp d er thro her and ugh for ove r 25 yea out the Sou th Pac rs; in Islands ific the Sol , Norfol omon k Island, Cook Islands Tonga, and New Samoa, Noel firs Zealan d.
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Noel Bar tley has extensiv travelle ely as d and a pho worked publish tograp er thro her and ugh for ove r 25 yea out the Sou th Pac rs; in Islands ific the Sol , Norfolk omon Cook Island, Islands Tonga, and New Samoa, Noel firs Zealand . t arrived 199 0 in the to cre Cook ate pro Islands and adv motion in ertising al bro chures Tourism for the Co Corpo ok Isla ration, photog nds and to raphic est abl sto adverti ish sing the ck for future use country tourist destina as a des in tion. Mu visitors irable ch of to the the pho se sho create tograp res dur d by Noe hy whi ing the l, during ch has pas t two In New enticed his man decade Zealand y visits s has , his mar est abl to the been se isla ish an ket ing bac nds. extensiv and pos kgroun e range tcards d quickly of pho in the the isla helped tograp 198 0’s nds of hic boo him , before the devote ks, cale he bec d his tim South Pac ndars, ame enc ific. Dur e warme ing the hanted r climate to a more rela past 20 with xed pur and amo years suit of Now at ngst his he has photog home many raphy, on Rar island activity in a otonga friends is that for mo . of own Magaz st of the er and ine, year, Noe editor best des recently dub of awa l’s mai bed by tination rd win n the cha ning Esc magazin irman Other ape e in the of BU titles incl South LA Fiji ude Rar through Pacific” as “the otonga . the Co , Cook ok Isla Islands nds. and A Journe y
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To order a copy of Matini, contact the author at rmtreeves@gmail.com or the publisher at john@cookislandsnews.com, or drop by the Cook Islands News office in Avarua.
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Noel, who also publishes award winning Escape Magazine, produced these pictorial books, one entitled Rarotonga, the other
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ESCAPE • 17
raro rhythm
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R E G G I TR FISH create music o tw e s e th r riven Togethe percussion d , c ti s u o c a n that is a Reggae and , B & R , z z a J f soulful mix o er with their th e g to n e v o . Funk all w usical thread m n ia s e n ly own Po
18 • ESCAPE
hen 140 Tahitian Ukulele players from the Moana Ukulele school Teao, in Papette, requested to accompany “Trigger Fish” at a recent gig at the Royal Tahitian, it truly was a moment, and a very emotional moment at that. Not only because of the sheer impact of having the ukuleles, but because the song they played along to ‘I Raro I te Tumanu’ was written by Kura Happ’s very own grandmother Tekura Ruaporo. In 2014 that song knocked New Zealand’s X-Factor judge Stan Walker’s song ‘Aotearoa’ off the Tahitian charts number 1 placing!
Cook Islands duo Maurice Newport and Kura Happ known simply as Trigger Fish are a powerhouse musical team. Not only are they much loved in their home of Rarotonga, but they also have a strong international following from New Zealand, Australia, Tahiti and Europe where they are often requested to tour for events, private parties and festivals, resulting in many sell out shows and a growing numbers of fans. Both are accomplished musicians with over 30 years of experience on the International music circuit. Lead singer and rhythm guitarist Kura Happ is an adventurous island woman
who is just as much at home sailing the Pacific on Marumaru Atua, one of the Cook Islands traditional vakas, or fishing Eke (Octopus) out of the lagoon for dinner, as she is on stage in front of thousands. Her musical abilities are many - with a soulful rich voice that can take hold of a song and make it her own. Like most great Pacific singers Kura started singing in a church choir in Rarotonga. Her family then moved to Australia where at 11 years of age, singing in her bedroom, her mother saw that she had some real talent and started her on the pathway of talent quests, music and dance lessons and performing at any and all family gatherings. Along with her sister Leilani Happ, also an accomplished musician, they formed “Brown Sugar” as teenagers and started being the musical Cook Island girls to watch. Maurice Newport more commonly known as Mo is a drumming wizard and a skilled musical director. Mo was not only the drummer for iconic country folk band “ The Warratahs” for many years, but has played with the likes of Shona Laing, Peter Morgan, and Barry Saunders, to name a few. He explains that the neighbours wanted to kill him when he was growing up, with his constant drumming and passion for making beats. His abilities now prove that those early years of making noise have made him a dynamic and respected drummer percussionist in many international music circles. Playing in Reggae, Blues, Irish, Folk, Rock, Jazz and Funk bands provided Mo with skills to play a broad range of styles. Along with his love for all things percussive he easily flows from drum kit, hub caps, congas, sand filled jars, and cajon. Together these two create music that is an acoustic, percussion driven soulful mix of Jazz, R & B, Reggae and Funk all woven together with their own Polynesian musical thread. They have a unique Pacific style that has now gathered many fans. 2014 saw them Cook Islands Music awards winners in the contemporary music section. In 2013 they released a hugely popular 5 track CD that they distribute and sell at their gigs. They return to the recording studio in early 2016 to record a collection of new songs they have been working on, which will no doubt sell like hot cakes. Trigger Fish are one music duo not to be missed whether you are on holiday here in Rarotonga or in NZ, Australia, Tahiti or Europe…
If Trigger Fish are playing don’t miss out!
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Tivaevae Collectables shop is located in their house opposite the weather station in Nikao. There you’ll find a range of these marine quality ‘Sunbrella’ outdoor cushion covers at $120 each. See their advert on page 17.
Cute little souvenir salt and pepper shakers in a number of styles are available from Treasure Chest. They have four stores on Rarotonga at Avarua, Muri Village, Edgewater Resort and The Rarotongan Beach Resort.
Strong colours and natures patterns mimic the vibrancy of our islands of Paradise in a great range of fashion garments at Mareko. You’ll find them in the main shopping area downtown. Their very helpful staff can help you choose just the right unique garment for you.
A novel way to remember just how to make those traditional Cook Islands dishes: These colourful BBQ aprons complete with recipe are available from Island Craft and make an ideal souvenir or gift to take home. Island Craft are situated in downtown Avarua and at the International Airport.
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Beware when buying black pearls… When shopping for Cook Islands black pearls, always ask the sales assistant if the pearls are genuine Cook Islands pearls. Ensure that you are given a certificate of authenticity (with the name of the retail outlet you purchased from) guaranteeing exactly what you have been told you are buying. Be advised that there are other pearls on the market that look like authentic Cook Islands black pearls, but are not.
Inspired contemporary Polynesian designs featuring four traditional motifs – air, water, land and people, adorn these attractive rings for both men and women. They are available exclusively from The Goldmine in Avarua.
Scentchips is a unique idea that allows you to create your very own fragrance in safe soy-based waxes. Choose from 72 fragrances from a blending table and mix to their recipes or create your own unique blend. Visit the Goodlife Store in the Banana Court and have fun.
These beautiful sterling silver Tipani earrings priced at just $90 can be found at Moana Gems store in Taputaputea. They also have a splendid range of black pearl jewellery to choose from. See their advert on page 47.
Professional Floral Service
Serving you for 72 years and proud to be part of our nations history
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There are few places in the world that equal this special emerald island in the Pacific - the largest of the Cook Islands. A place where a visit is certain to capture the heart. And upon reluctant departure, will generously add to a lifetime of good memories.
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a g n o t o r Ra a smorgasbord of South Pacific fun
T
his is Rarotonga, named Tumutevarovaro by the first Polynesian settlers over a thousand years ago, who composed chants and songs in praise of her natural splendor. Those ancient Maori people who navigated the Pacific in their ocean voyaging doublehulled canoes would have relished her fertile abundance and delighted in her safe anchorages and plentiful water. The beauty of Rarotonga is still awesome. Especially when viewed from the air on an Air Rarotonga aircraft. Or, from beyond the reef aboard one of several deep sea fishing boats available for charter, where you can behold the mountains rising majestically from the centre of the island, piercing blue skies and passing clouds. From these cloud mountains, the early Polynesian settlers believed Rongo, the goddess of the land lived and watched
over them as they fished, planted and lived a simple, but rich life. There’s also a breathtaking view of Rarotonga from the ‘Needle” if you take the “cross island” walk which starts from Avatiu Valley. From this point you can see the necklace of white surf that forever pounds the reef enclosing this volcanic island. The cross-island walk is best done with a guide and does require some effort, so being of average fitness will help as will sturdy footwear. Guided sightseeing walks and learning about the island’s flora and fauna can be booked through your hotel or travel agent. Less strenuous than going across the island is the informative scenic walk offered by guides of the Takitumu Conservation Area (TCA). Covering 380 acres, the TCA is home to the indigenous Kakerori, (Rarotongan Flycatcher). Once on the critically endangered list, this tiny
bird is now thriving well, thanks to the efforts of environmentalists and the TCA group to save the bird from extinction. Rarotonga is lush and carpeted with plantations that yield year-round fruits and vegetables. The largest of the 15 Cook Islands, it is 32 km around its main coastal road. An inland road and various tracks will further reveal a palette of dazzling tropical colours equaled by few other places. Like other islands in the group, Rarotonga’s white beaches with sand as fine as powder stretch into clear blue lagoons around the island. Lagoons where children safely play are food cupboards for the local people, who live an unhurried lifestyle in a unique, unspoiled place in the Pacific.
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Island Wear Creative Flair with a
Located in central Avarua P. (682) 20548 Find us on Facebook
Traditional Voyaging According to ancient mythology, Rarotonga was settled over a thousand years ago by Polynesians from an ancient land called Avaiki. They travelled in massive double-hulled ocean voyaging canoes, crisscrossing Te Moana Nui O Kiva (Pacific Ocean) in search of fertile, sheltered land. That traditional voyaging, navigating by the stars, has been revived in the Cook Islands and two traditional ocean going vaka built in the early 1990’s have notched up thousands of nautical miles, travelling as far as Hawaii, New Caledonia and New Zealand. The vaka, Te Au O Tonga and Takitumu can be viewed at Vaka Village in Avana, Ngatangiia. Avana channel is also the site where seven canoes Takitumu, Kurahaupo, Tokomaru, Aotea, Tainui, Mataatua and Te Arawa, departed Rarotonga for New Zealand over 700 years ago. A circle of stones and plaques bearing the name of each canoe commemorates that great voyage.
Shopping LOOKING FOR THAT IDEAL SOUVENIR TO TAKE HOME? Pop in and browse through our extensive range. We specialise in locally made and Pacific made products and we are well known for our island souvenirs, wooden crafts, arts, island jewellery and apparel. Look for the brightly decorated store opposite Avatiu Harbour.
Ph. 20942 24 • ESCAPE
The capital of Rarotonga is Avarua and many shops offer a wide selection of goods and souvenirs. Possibly the best souvenir of the Cook Islands is a black pearl from the northern islands of Manihiki or Penrhyn. The Cook Islands is the second biggest producer of black pearls in the world. Punanga Nui Marketplace on Saturday mornings is busy and colourful – stalls and small huts selling souvenirs, food and clothing. The market is the best place to buy a pareu (sarong) and handmade pearl shell jewellery, or to try some of the local delicacies. It is a lively meeting place for hundreds of locals each Saturday morning. There’s often a live show by dance teams, or a local string band.
Water Sports With clear blue lagoons and a huge ocean at its doorstep, there is a good range of water sports to suit all ages. You can choose from skimming the lagoon on a windsurfer, kayaking, lagoon boat trips, scuba diving, deep-sea fishing, reef watching in a glass bottom ‘submarine’, or just swimming, snorkelling and sunbathing. One of the best spots to snorkel is in Tikioki opposite the Fruits of Rarotonga Café where Mama Puretu makes delicious smoothies from local fresh fruit. A raui, (a traditional ban on fishing and the gathering of seafood) protects the Tikioki lagoon, so it teems with fish and other marine life. Raui are also in place on other parts of Rarotonga’s lagoon coastline and these areas generally offer the best snorkelling. Look for the Raui signs around the island, but please protect our marine environment – take nothing but memories and leave nothing but bubbles. Because Rarotonga is surrounded by clear waters, the visibility when scuba diving is excellent. All dive operators offer lessons for beginners in the safety of the lagoon before venturing out over the reef. Both Koka Lagoon Cruises and Captain Tama’s Lagoon Cruizes operate from Muri Lagoon, next to Rarotonga Sailing Club, offering visitors lagoon tours in glass bottom boats with loads of fun exploring the lagoon plus swimming, snorkeling, sunbathing and a
barbeque lunch. Outrigger canoeing teams train on Muri lagoon and at Avarua wharf. Watching the teams powering through the water in their six-man or single outrigger canoes is stirring. The annual canoeing festival, Te Vaka Eiva, is held every November with teams from all over the Pacific travelling to Rarotonga to race.
Sports Cook Islanders love their sports, with rugby and netball the top favourites. More often than not, a local will play several different sports during the year and be good at all of them. Saturday sees keen inter-village rugby, netball, cricket, tennis, soccer and rugby league games, depending on the season. Spectators are welcome, as is participation in after-match socials at village clubhouses. Entry fee and drinks are cheap, the atmosphere is always lively, especially if teams are putting on a small show with lots of humour. The Rarotonga Bowling Club in town has matches most Saturdays and a bar to relax in after games. The Rarotonga Golf Club welcomes visitors to its 9-hole course at Black Rock and offers clubs and trundlers for hire.
Nightlife There’s always lots to do in the evenings. Island nights staged by local hotels feature buffets of local food cooked in an umu or earth oven. Entertainment is provided by one of the islands’
professional dance groups and you are guaranteed a vibrant, sensual show and drumming that’s recognised as the best in the world - see our Entertainment Guide for more information. Guided night tours by bus to well-known establishments like the Banana Court, Trader Jacks and Whatever! Bar after the island show is also fun and there’s also the comfort of knowing one doesn’t have to drive home after several bar stops. Rarotonga has numerous excellent restaurants that serve tempting food from around the world. One could eat out every night of the week and still not experience all the great food that’s available. The Tamarind House Restaurant in Pue (just out of Avarua) is a beautifully converted colonial house that once belonged to the Union Steamship Company. Situated close to the beach, the Tamarind looks over the ocean and meals can be taken in the garden under the stars. See our cuisine section for the pick of Rarotonga restaurants. Takeaway meals also are available from outlets all around the island and excellent fish n’ chips are served up by the Flying Boat Grill located at the Cook Islands Game Fishing Club. Visitors are always welcome to join the locals at the club for a drink or a meal. The location of Aramoana Takeaways at Avatiu Wharf ensures that their fish is always freshly caught by local fishermen.
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Rarotonga has a three-cinema complex with air conditioning, a big screen and surround-sound in Cinema 3. A good selection of recent movies is shown. For those wanting a quiet night in, there are several local video and DVD outlets, all with a comprehensive selection of classics and latest releases. Some outlets also hire TV’s and DVD players.
Other things to do Come in to view our extensive range of sarongs, island clothing, footwear and t-shirts. Rarotonga’s largest selection of souvenirs, crafts and gift ideas.
Whale watching is possible in Rarotonga during the months of August and September. The humpback whales come from Antarctica to the warmer waters of the Cook group to mate and calf. The Cook Islands exclusive economic zone has been formally declared a whale sanctuary. The Whale Centre in Nikao is an interesting place to visit, to find out more about these magnificent ocean creatures. Two libraries and museums just out of town are great for browsing. On the way to the “old library and museum” you’ll pass the Avarua Christian Church. The adjacent graveyard is interesting to wander through and of note is the bust of the late Albert Royale Henry, the first Cook Islands premier who was instrumental in guiding the country towards self-government in 1964.
Mana Court, Avarua | Ph: 22325 Rarotongan Resort | Ph: 27325 Edgewater Resort | Ph: 28325 Pacific Village Muri | Ph: 21325 Hats
Salt & Pepper shakers
treasure@oyster.net.ck 26 • ESCAPE
Sunday After a busy Saturday night, relax on Sunday like the locals. Sunday is regarded as a day of worship and rest. A wonderful memory to take home is the singing in one of the islands’ Cook Islands Christian Churches. CICC coral limestone churches, hand built by the forefathers of Cook Islanders, are in every village and visitors are warmly welcomed to Sunday services. Morning tea is provided by the congregations.
Weddings Rarotonga has become a popular location for weddings and honeymoons. Wedding packages designed to suit each couples taste and budget are available from a number of operators on the island. The golden beach of uninhabited Koromiri islet in Muri lagoon is one of the most popular locations for weddings. Young coconut saplings planted by each newly wed couple line the beach and are testimony to the islet’s popularity.
Relax In the Cook Islands you’ll hear the phrase “island time” a lot. You are a long way from the hustle and bustle of the outside world, so…walk a little slower, savour every moment of your holiday in paradise and don’t worry about being a bit late for engagements. That is island time on Rarotonga.
offee Great C ervice Great S icensed L y l l u F
Creative cuisine at affordable prices. Delicious wood-fired pizzas & bread. Roasted Addiqtion Coffee.
Quality Cook Islands Pearls From our very own Manihiki Island Farm
Breakfast Brunch & Lunch Mon to Sat from 7.30am In the centre of town next to CITC
Phone: 22215 cafe@salsa.co.ck www.salsa.co.ck
COOK ISLANDS Top Jewellery & Gift Store BEST PRICES • QUALITY • SELECTION • SERVICE
BLACK PEARL JEWELLERY - Avaiki Black Pearls Karen Walker Jewellery Polynesian Rings in Gold and Silver Wedding/Engagement & Dress Rings Gold & Silver Chains, Charms, Earrings Lladro • Amber • Jade • Coral • Opal For the best deal in the Cook Islands come to
Goldmine, Main Road, Avarua
PEARL FARMER • RETAILER WHOLESALER
Lesley & Temu Okotai Harbour House, Avatiu P. 20635 temu@manihikiblackpearls.co.ck
P. 24823 | F. 24824 | email: goldmine@oyster.net.ck www.rarotongablackpearls.com
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island cuisine
TAMANU BEACH RESORT Aitutaki
Erika Bult knows food. As soon as I’ve introduced myself, she launches into a passionate discourse about nutrition and how most of us are eating empty foods, foods that satiate but don’t satisfy. She talks with reverence about the healing powers of the ancient Polynesians’ diet – fish, fruit, and root vegetables – and about how each dish on the menu before us derives in some way from Pacific produce. Erika manages the Muri Beach Club Hotel, and tonight she insists on joining me Even someone with a below-average memory like mine doesn’t easily forget an exceptional dining experience. Sometimes, everything just goes right. Our dinner at Tamanu Beach Resort in Aitutaki ticked all the boxes. It was a beautiful, temperate evening, and we were seated on a table nearest the beach, close enough to hear the waves foaming at the shore. I was with three of my cousins, and we’d just enjoyed the perfect kind of Aitutaki day, spent swimming and sunbathing and being regaled with tales of ancient Aitutaki at Punarei Cultural Village. We were sunburnt and hungry, and dressed in our evening best when we arrived at Tamanu Beach Resort, where a waitress offered a big smile, pulled out our chairs, and handed us napkins for our laps. This was the first of many times throughout the meal we would raise our eyebrows in pleasant surprise at the level of customer service. As for our food, it was mouth-watering. Chef Masi lived up to his reputation. We
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started with traditional ika mata, or raw fish and vegetables marinated in coconut cream, and delectably crispy “island fries” – an assortment of taro, breadfruit, and banana fried into chunky chips. One of my cousins ordered a steak, noting with skepticism, after he ordered and our waitress left, that it’s “hard to find a really good steak in the islands”. But after he finished, wiped his mouth, and pushed his chair away from the table, he declared that it had been “the best”. Another cousin ordered the “beef and reef” – Tamanu’s version of surf and turf, made up of an impressive stack of precariously balanced protein. The garlic prawns were succulent and the steak, juicy and rare. The meal came served with sautéed mushrooms, whipped potato, and slathered with a red wine jus. My third guest ordered New Zealand lamb loin, richly doused with minted jus and served with roasted potatoes and vegetables. And I had the Cajun tuna,
seared to perfection and overlaid with a warm vegetable-and-feta-cheese salad and homemade tomato chutney. We were thoroughly stuffed and satisfied, but attacked our dessert – a sinful mocha cheesecake with French vanilla ice cream – with vigour. We could scarcely walk as we left the table, but we looked at each other and silently agreed: It was so worth it. RR
The restaurant at Tamanu Beach Resort is open seven days a week. Sunday is BBQ night and Thursdays feature an Island Night and Fire Dance show. See their advertisement on page 69. Bookings essential | Tel. 31810 www.tamanubeach.com
Beachfront | Airport Hotel | Cuisine | Events Hula Bar $3.50 beers | 5 mins to Downtown
T: +682 21003 | E: info@islanderhotel.co.ck | W: islanderhotel.co.ck
Casual and friendly Asian street-style café
Dine on the Beach
Vietnamese, Indonesian, Chinese, Malaysian, Thai.
with Pacific Resort Rarotonga
Sandals Beachfront Restaurant & Barefoot Bar
Muri Village Phone: 22232 or 75449
Open 7 days for breakfast, lunch & dinner. Regular live entertainment. Located in Muri at Pacific Resort Rarotonga.
Experience it for yourself!
www.pacificresort.com |
+682 20 427
WOOD FIRED 6
OPEN DAYS EAT IN OR TAKE AWAY PH 53330 Located opposite the Punanga Nui Markets (next to the Bond Liquor store) – look for the funky green shipping container
BAKERY&CAFE GREAT COFFEE
GOURMET DELI FOODS
SPECIALTY FINE WINES
FRESH BAKED BREADS
DINNER TUESDAY TO FRIDAY CATERING
WEDDING & CELEBRATION CAKES
OPEN DAILY AT 2 LOCATIONS
MURI VILLAGE P: 28619 • UPTOWN AVARUA P: 27619
TAMARIND HOUSE
RESTAURANT & BAR
LA CASITA Hola!
LUNCH - THURSDAY & FRIDAY DINNER - MONDAY TO SATURDAY A beautiful heritage colonial house, located on the seafront, just 3 minutes from the town centre. Dine with piano by candlelight in the peaceful seclusion of a romantic tropical setting. THE PERFECT VENUE FOR YOUR WEDDING OR PRIVATE FUNCTION
EMAIL tamarind@cookislands.co.ck www.tamarind.co.ck
PHONE 26487
Welcome to a taste of Mexico at the popular La Casita Restaurant in Muri Village. Established by well-known restaurateur Sue Carruthers of Tamarind House fame who, from Kenya originally, has an excellent reputation with exotic foods, having also recently opened The Rickshaw Asian café. La Casita is situated on the main road in Muri Village in a casual, laid-back open-sided building befitting its style of cuisine. It screams “just relax and enjoy the experience and taste of genuine Mexican flavours”. And genuine they are. A very affordable menu features such popular Mexican dishes as Enchiladas, Burritos, Quesadillas and of course, Nachos. However there is an extensive choice, so why not go for the Huevos Rancheros – two fried eggs, spiced red beans, cheese, sour cream, tomato salsa and guacamole with a flour tortilla – and add a spiced sausage if you wish.
MURI VILLAGE Fresh flavours of Mexico for lunch and dinner, plus fresh fish, steaks, pizza and vegan food.
See you there amigo! Phone 20693 30 • ESCAPE
Other exotic flavours are wrapped up in a great selection of Tacos and Chimichangas – a crispy pan-fried burrito with either fish fillets or beef plus bell peppers, cheese and spices and lime and tomato salsa – just delicious. The old favourite Chilli Con Carne also features alongside Fish Veracruz, Tortilla Salad, Pasta of the day and others. Pizza lovers are also catered for with flavoursome Mexican ingredients on their favourite dish. On my last visit to La Casita I ordered the Quesadilla La Paz – a flour tortilla with fresh fish and shrimp, jalapenos, cheese, guacamole and tomato salsa – simply delicious flavours that take me back to Mexico. For dessert it was the Sticky Lime Toffee with vanilla ice cream. Yum!! La Casita is fun dining at realistic prices. See you there Amigo! NB
Located on the main road in Muri Village Open 7 days for dinner from 6pm and most days for lunch. Tel. 20693
“ Where meals and memories are made...”
THE ISLANDER I had already checked in for my flight out of Rarotonga but I still had a couple of hours to kill. I wanted them to be memorable; I wasn't ready to leave paradise -- I don't think anyone ever really is -- and I didn't want to farewell it from a metal chair at the airport. So my partner and I walked across the road to The Islander for a meal, a drink from the beachside Hula Bar, and one last look at the tropical sea. We had the right idea. We sat outside at a picnic table, under a temperate sun and beside a calm sea. The tuna in my salad was freshcaught and perfectly seared; his Surf n Turf platter comprised a mouth-watering ribeye steak covered in a jus infused with local vanilla, prawns cooked in garlic butter, local snake beans and a fried cake of local maniota, or arrowroot. We ordered drinks from the friendly bartender at the Hula Bar, where it’s happy hour all day, every day. When I return to paradise, I intend to make The Islander my first stop, for some breadfruit fries and a celebratory cocktail. For anyone who uses the airport or likes a cheap Happy Hour or a good meal – in other words, nearly everyone on Rarotonga – The Islander is a place to know. It’s a boutique hotel with a restaurant and bar, an easy walk from the Rarotonga International Airport, even with heavy luggage in tow.
The restaurant opens onto a patio and a swimming pool surrounded by tables; just beyond is the sea. Beside the pool is a big sandy area occupied by picnic tables and The Hula Bar. The property, formerly Aquarius Hotel, was redesigned and renovated in 2014, and quickly thereafter received the locals’ stamp of approval. People started talking about the hearty meals and the $3.50 drinks, and soon The Islander was popular with the islanders as well as guests and tourists. It's truly a multipurpose location – somewhere to take the kids for a pizza and a swim, or to dine under the stars with a date, or to meet some friends for a beer. There’s something for everyone – a bigscreen featuring live sports on Sky TV; live music throughout the week; a $49 ‘Island Night’ buffet on Tuesday nights featuring a local feast and performances by Cook Islands dancers. It’s a place to eat, drink, and farewell Rarotonga, or greet her upon returning. With a laidback, tropical vibe but all the luxuries of a modern-day restaurant, it’s exactly the kind of place that should be at the edge of Rarotonga’s airport. RR
Open for breakfast from 8am, and for all-day lunch and dinner. Tel. 21003. See their advertisement on Page 29 www.islanderhotel.co.ck
Relax and enjoy your Breakfast, Lunch, a cup of espresso coffee, an icy cold beer or your favourite drink while gazing out to the beautiful lagoon. We serve authentic Thai food, tasty Mexican, burgers, fish and chips, home-made desserts and much more…
Mince Pork Salad
Opening Hours Sunday to Thursday 9:00am – 2:30pm
Down south in Titikaveka
Tel.(+682)20020 S ALTWATER CAFE - R AROTONGA
LITTLE POLYNESIAN
fine dining breakfast & lunch from 8am tapa’s & cocktails from 4pm dinner from 6pm reservations recommended ph:24280 email:sales@littlepolynesian.com www.littlepolynesian.com
Top 10 Hotels for Romance in the South Pacific
Cook Islands Leading Boutique Hotel
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FRESH FISH CAFE
Sashimi & Carpaccio Ika Mata Seafood Platters Fish, Chips & Salad Gourmet Sandwiches
Fish N Chips $12.00
All day breakfast And heaps more Located: PUNANGA NUI MARKET, AVARUA
Ika Mata $8.00
Mon - Sat 8am - 4pm (Friday till 8pm)
P. 23 577
Phone orders welcome
The Cook Islands Restaurant Association open Mon – sat from 7.30aM – 3pM The recently formed Cook Islands Restaurant Association
Punanga nui market membership is made up of some of the most distinguished and (next to playground) AVARUA experienced restaurateurs on the island. They are dedicated to phone orders welcoMe ensuring a high standard of service and committed to providing phone 23575 you with the best possible dining experience. So look for their official logo when next choosing where to dine…
SMOOTHIES
Mon - sat ~Healthy open & 7.30aM—3pM Delicious Smoothie blends from Alberto’s Restaurant Arorangi • TROPICAL DELIGHT $7 All-day Breakfast $12.50
Punanga nui market (next to playground) AVARUA phone orders welcoMe
phone 23575
Tel: 2359 Add Yoghurt Ice Cream or Spirulina $8.00
• THE GREEN MACHINE
- Sat 7:30am - 4pm Add ProteinMon or Wheat Grass $8.00
SMOOTHIES P. 23blends 575 ~Healthy & Delicious Smoothie • PROTEIN POWER UP welcome Phone orders
• TROPICAL DELIGHT
Add Peanut Butter $8.00 $ 7
$7
Bamboo Jacks Taputaputea Tel: 28830 bamboojacks@gmail.com
$7
Add Yoghurt Ice Cream or Spirulina $8.00
• THE GREEN MACHINE
$7
• PROTEIN POWER UP
$7
• Banana Colada
$7
• Banana Colada
Add Protein or Wheat Grass $8.00
Add Protein $8.00
Add Peanut Butter $8.00 Add Protein $8.00
$7
Café Salsa Avarua Tel: 22215 www.salsa.co.ck
JUICE BOOSTS
JUICE BOOSTS
$7 • HANGOVER CURE $7 $7 • ENERGY UP $7 ~Freshly Squeezed—Add Vitamin Supplement $1.00 •GOURMET SUPER SKINNY SALADS & SUSHI ••POLYNESIAN BEEF SALAD $13 IRONMAN PUMP • THAI CHICKEN SALAD $13 • HANGOVER CURE • ENERGY UP • SUPER SKINNY • IRONMAN PUMP
Kikau Hut Arorangi Tel: 26860 kikauhut@oyster.net.ck
$7 $7 $7 La Casita Muri $ 7Village
Tel: 20693 $13 Vitamin Supplement ~Freshly Squeezed—Add $1.00
• SMOKED MARLIN SALAD • SUSHI PACKS (FRESH DAILY)
$13 Fresh Sushi
Muri Village and Avarua GOURMET SALADS &LBVSUSHI Gourmet Salads
ESPRESSO RANGE Locally Roasted Espresso Coffee
MED
• SHORT OR LONG BLACK $4 • CAPPUCINNO • LATTE $4 • FLAT WHITE • MOCHACHINO $4 • HOT CHOCOLATE $4 $4 • POT OF TEA • ICE CHOCOLATE • COFFEE • MOCHA WITH CREAM • COFFEE & CAKE/MUFFIN/ECLAIR COMBO
Located: PUNANGA NUI MARKET, AVARUA
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Tamarind House Tupapa Tel: 26487 www.tamarind.co.ck The Anchorage Arorangi Tel: 23004 anchorageinraro@gmail.com Trader Jacks Avarua Harbour Tel: 26464 info@traderjacks.co.ck Tumunu Arorangi Tel: 20501
LGE
Freshly squeezed • POLYNESIAN BEEF SALAD Juice Boosts • THAI CHICKEN SALAD Healthy & delicious SUSHI Smoothies • SMOKED MARLIN SALAD made fresh dail y from Espresso Coffee • SUSHI PACKS (FRESH DAILY)
$1.50
Sails Restaurant Muri Beach Tel: 27349 www.sailsrestaurant.co.ck
$5 $5 $5 $8 $8
& Cake
ESPRESSO RANGE And heaps more
Locally Roasted Espresso Coffee
Tel: 28619 (Muri) $13 Tel: 27619 (Avarua)
$13
Nu Bar & Bistro $13Panama Tel: 26121 $10 The Rickshaw Muri Village LGE MED Tel: 22232
• SHORT OR LONG BLACK $4 • CAPPUCINNO • LATTE $4 • FLAT WHITE • MOCHACHINO $4 • HOT CHOCOLATE $4 $4 • POT OF TEA • ICE CHOCOLATE • COFFEE • MOCHA WITH CREAM • COFFEE & CAKE/MUFFIN/ECLAIR COMBO
— $5 $5 $5 — $8 $8
Vaima Restaurant Vaimaanga Tel: 26123 www.vaimarestaurant.com
Waterline The
Restaurant & Beach Bar
Situated on the beach at Arorangi – the perfect spot for a sunset cocktail and dinner.
OCEANS RESTAURANT AND BAR
at Crown Beach Resort and Spa Sipping cocktails, while watching the sun dip below the horizon, has got to be one of the best ways to begin an evening of excellent dining. We arrived early for dinner at Oceans Restaurant and Bar, located at Crown Beach Resort and Spa, to do just that. With Pina Colada in hand at one of their beachside tables, my eyes fell on the dessert section of the menu at first glance. I selected the lemon grass and ginger crème brulee with which to finish my meal before anything else. Seafood is a feature of the starters, with my partner choosing the salt and pepper squid. He claimed it was one of the best squid dishes he has ever had. I opted for the seafood samba, a trilogy of te ika mata, tuna carpaccio and fresh prawn spring rolls, all of which were simply delicious. As night fell, we moved into the restaurant to eat our mains, in order to make the most of the live entertainment that features at Oceans four nights a week. It was a pleasure to listen to the sultry tones of Kura Happ from Triggerfish, while eating
my choice of main for the evening – a beef eye fillet, served with local snake beans, gratin potato, tomato tapenade and wild mushroom jus, which arrived at our table just as ordered, medium rare. The lamb curry my partner chose, was a mildly spiced South Indian curry, served with steamed rice, poppadoms, a very tasty fruit chutney and minted yoghurt sauce. Oceans offer a wide range of New Zealand wines, along with a number of exclusive cellared wines -we washed down our mains with a glass or two of Westbrook Marlborough Pinot Noir. The crème brulee lived up to its expectations and was simply delicious, served with vanilla shortbread and a tart berry compote. My partner was equally happy with his chocolate, banana and coconut wontons, served with butterscotch sauce and ice-cream. RS
Open 6 days per week for lunch and dinner (closed Mondays). Come and enjoy a wonderful meal and live music on Wednesday evenings. Bookings recommended.
The most romantic location for your sunset wedding. Enquire now!
Ocean’s is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner every day, with an Island feast and cultural show on Monday and Thursday evening. They also have the best happy hour on the island from 3pm to 6pm daily. Tel: 23953 to make a reservation.
Phone +682 22161 beachbar@waterline.co.ck www.waterline-restaurant.com ESCAPE • 33
On the waterfront at Avana Harbour
THE CAFÉ The Café in a Container!
The original fresh fish sandwiches & salads, all with homemade dressings & pickles, cooked to perfection right on the waterfront. The tasty & healthy option! Mon to Fri: 10.30 to 3.30 Sun: 12.00 to 4.00 Sat: Closed
Phone 25553 take-outs available Find us on Facebook
From the main road it is difficult to imagine the serene sanctuary that lies within the Beachcomber building in Taputaputea. This historic building, located opposite the CITC Church grounds has origins dating back to 1845 and was once a school for missionary children. Restored in 1992, it is well worth a visit, not just to view the building, but to discover the lovely courtyard beyond that has a view of the sea and is home to the BCA art gallery. The biggest attraction here however, is The Café, a popular spot with locals who are aware of its great coffee and satisfying selection of food. Using locally roasted coffee, it is without doubt possibly the best little cafe in Rarotonga, renowned for its quality espresso and iced coffees. Your friendly hosts Clair and Ian also serve a variety of teas, tropical fruit smoothies and ice-cold drinks. Here you can choose from a delicious selection of homemade cakes and muffins to go with that supreme coffee. Or for a breakfast or lunch treat, choose from a great selection of fillings for your fresh bagel, croissant, or sandwich made from organic breads.
One neat little attraction at The Café is the record player and a great selection of old LP vinyl records featuring artists such as Frank Sinatra, Elvis, The Beatles, Ella Fitzgerald and the like. Feel free to peruse the selection, spin a platter at 33rpm and turn back the hands of time. Great coffee, excellent food, combined with a lovely setting and friendly goodnatured hosts ensure a relaxed and tummy fulfilling time at The Café. NB
Open Monday to Friday from 9am to 3pm and Saturday 9am to 1pm Tel. 21283
Tuoro Licensed
Great Food! Great Views! Great Service!
Quality espresso, homemade cakes & food Located in the courtyard of the historic Beachcomber Building in Avarua with fantastic sea views.
OPEN Mon - Fri 9am - 3pm Sat 9am - 1pm
Ph. 21283
Lunchtime casual dining with a selection of flavoursome tapas & main dishes, all homemade using fresh local produce that will tantalise your taste-buds. At very affordable prices. Located in a tropical garden at Black Rock Villas with superb elevated views over the lagoon & ocean. Live music on Sundays. Bookings Advised Open for lunch from 11am Closed Saturday & Monday
ph. 21233
blackrok@oyster.net.ck ESCAPE • 35 www.blackrockvillas.com
on the beach Superb Beachfront Setting Unique All Entree Menu Delicious Cocktails Designer Desserts Live Music
the new restaurant with the old reputation Indoor & Outdoor Dining in an Authentic Island Setting, Extensive Menu with a Touch of Tropical Flavours, Weddings, Birthdays, Special Occasions Licensed Bar | Open 7 Nights a week from 6pm | Transfers Available Situated right on the beach in Vaimaanga! Reservations Recommended.
Ph 26123 | www.vaimarestaurant.com
• Fully licensed • Open 7 nights for dinner from 6pm • Gluten free, vegetarian & children catered for • Live music some nights • Reservations appreciated • Transfers by arrangement • Seafood platter for one – menu favourite Gordon, Rebecca & staff welcome you
PHONE: 23000 ADULTS ONLY 18+ LOCATED AT 36 • ESCAPE MURI BEACH CLUB HOTEL
Phone: +682 26860 Email: kikauhut@oyster.net.ck Situated on the main road at Arorangi (500 mtrs from Edgewater Resort – towards town)
local recipe
PAN-FRIED MAHI MAHI
With Prawn & Chilli Salsa and Vanilla Coconut Sauce serves 8
The Beachfront Restaurant & Bar at the Nautilus Resort recently won the 2015 ‘Cook Islands Restaurant of the Year’ award. We went along to experience this fine dining restaurant for ourselves and convinced their talented chef to divulge how to make this flavoursome fish dish. We just know that you will love its flavours and textures. Enjoy modern and sophisticated dining at this acclaimed restaurant 7 days a week, be it either for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Reservations are recommended | Tel: 25125
Poached Prawns
Method
Pan fried Mahi Mahi
600gr prawn cutlets
Cut the chillies lengthways, remove seeds
1.5kg fillet fresh mahi mahi
2 teaspoons whole black peppercorns
and cut into thin slices.
Cooking oil
2 bay leaves
Mix with the rest of the ingredients except
Juice of 2 limes
Citrus peel
pawpaw, avocado and coriander. Adjust
Flaky salt for seasoning
Salt
seasoning. Add the pawpaw, avocado and coriander
Method
Method
when plating. Finish with some virgin
Cut the mahi mahi into 8 even size pieces
Bring a large pot of water to the boil and
avocado oil.
across the fillet. Turn each portion on its
add a good sized pinch of salt, bay leaves,
side and cut down the middle of the fillet
citrus peel & peppercorns. Simmer for 1
Coconut & Vanilla Sauce
parallel to the skin.
minute to infuse the flavours.
2 vanilla beans split & scraped
Meanwhile, warm an ovenproof frying pan
Add the prawns and turn off the heat
1 litre coconut cream
over medium heat.
immediately.
2 stalks lemongrass, chopped
Rub some salt on the skin of the mahi
Let sit in the hot water for no more than
100ml coconut water
mahi and place in the pan, skin side down.
3 minutes, then strain and plunge into ice
2 cups dark rum
Repeat with the piece without the skin.
water to cool completely. Once cooled,
Salt & white pepper to taste
Lightly season the top side of the fish while
drain and keep well chilled until needed.
1 teaspoon lime juice for seasoning
in the pan. Allow to cook until golden, then flip over
Prawn & Pawpaw Salsa 2 hot red chillies 2 spring onions, white part only - finely sliced 4 teaspoons virgin coconut & chilli oil 1 teaspoon lime juice 1 pawpaw, peeled and diced 1 avocado diced 600gr Cooked prawns, cut into bite size pieces Salt & pepper to season Coriander sprigs Virgin avocado oil
Method
and take off the heat.
Place the vanilla beans, rum & lemongrass
Squeeze over the lime juice and place in an
in a pot and reduce until almost no liquid
oven for 3-5 minutes. The flesh of the fish
remains.
should spring back firmly when pushed.
Add the coconut cream and allow to simmer for 5-10 minutes on low heat. The
To Serve
sauce should now be thick & rich, so thin
First place the paw paw and avocado
down with the fresh coconut water.
salsa together with a little virgin olive
Season with the lime juice, salt and white
oil, coriander sprigs and the prawns on a
pepper then strain into a clean pot.
plate. Then the mahi mahi portion without
Bring back to a simmer before use.
the skin. On top of this, place the mahi mahi portion (skin on) with the skin side up. Lastly, pour some of the Coconut & Vanilla Sauce over the top. See photo… Enjoy!
ESCAPE • 37
local recipe
IKA MATA
A modern interpretation of a Rarotongan favourite: Ika Mata (raw fish) – Yellowfin tuna, cherry tomatoes, cucumber, coriander, coconut jelly, red onion & taro crisps with Titikaveka’s Rito Lime Coconut Oil Sails Restaurant won the award for Innovation & Originality at the 2015 Cook Island Restaurant of the Year Awards. This dish ranked highly with all guests in that result for its fresh palate, intense flavours and artful presentation!
Ingredients
Coconut Jelly
Plate Up
Fresh Yellow Fin Tuna
250ml fresh coconut milk
On a rectangular platter cut a banana leaf
Cherry Tomatoes
(or cream from can)
into a rectangle shape.
Cucumber
1 level tablespoon Gelatine
Layer the ingredients with sashimi first on
Fresh Coriander leaf
1 tablespoon of finely grated ginger
alternate sides of banana leaf.
Red Onion
1/2 teaspoon salt
Follow pattern with cucumber ribbons &
Lime Taro Rito Lime infused Coconut Oil
cherry tomatoes. 1. In a small Pan heat up Coconut Milk & add grated ginger
Place red onions & coriander leaf at regular intervals.
Fresh Ginger Root
2. Add Gelatine
Place 8 x coconut jelly cubes through the
Fresh Coconut Milk (or use can of Coconut
3. Remove from Heat
platter.
cream)
4. Stir continuously 2-3 minutes ensuring
Finish with taro crisps to create a visually
Gelatin
Gelatine dissolves 5. P our into a small square shaped plastic
As this dish is mostly raw foods, the time is spent in careful cutting and artful presentation. Two items need to be prepared: the coconut jelly and the taro crisps... Taro Crisps 1. P eel one taro and add to salted boiling water, when cooked and cool, cut into thin strips. 2. D eep fry the taro strips, remove, toss in rock salt and leave to cool.
38 • ESCAPE
container 6. When cool cover & place in chiller until set
stunning platter. Finally, lightly drizzle Rito Lime Infused Coconut Oil . Sails staff recommend to serve with Vanilla Bean infused Champagne.
7. When set cut into cubes
Other Ingredients 1. Wash the cherry tomotoes and cut in half 2. Grate the Cucumber length ways and twist ribbons into a florette 3. Thinly julienne the red onion 4. Select 6 single coriander leafs 5. C ut Yellowfin tuna in thin sashimi style slices
Sails Restaurant is located on the beach at Muri. Open 7 days from 9am until late evening. Tel: 27349 for reservations www.sailsrestaurant.co.ck
BEACHFRONT MURI LAGOON
NEW iSOBAR beach bar
Exciting cocktails and Matutu beer on tap.
Sit u at ed
angi
at: Te Sunset Resort in Aror
OPEN 7 DAYS
BREAKFAST, LUNCH & DINNER
Fully licensed cocktail and lounge bar with HAPPY HOUR from 4pm daily
Live Entertainment…
OPEN 7 DAYS
TUESDAYS: Reef & Beef Night – with Island Groove THURSDAYS: A la carte – with Natua ‘unplugged’ SUNDAYS: BBQ Buffet Night – with local string band
9am till late Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner Dinner Reservations Recommended Saturdays – Sailing Regatta Day Wireless Internet Available
PHONE • 23004 EMAIL • anchorageinraro@gmail.com
Tropical Garden Restaurant and Bar WEDDINGS & PRIVATE FUNCTIONS A SPECIALTY Consult with our Personal Wedding Planner. info@theweddingguys.co.ck dine@sailsrestaurant.co.ck
vailable
You’ll find us in a unique island setting in Arorangi, just 70 metres from Edgewater Resort. Open 7 nights from 6pm. Taste and feel what the islands are all about in a casual dining atmosphere! • full a-la-carte menu • fresh fish and great steaks • vegetarian and children’s dishes • incredible seafood platter for two • wheelchair access available
ed
reservations recommend
ph 20501
PHONE • 27349 www.sailsrestaurant.co.ck www.theweddingguys.co.ck
A fleeting visit to Rakahanga
…or was it just a wonderful dream Story & Photos: Rachel Reeves
N
o one really knows, but there are mutters the girl’s appendix has burst. Most of the village is here, at the hospital, crowded around her bed, one of two in the little sun-washed room. The orometua prays aloud, and then the people erupt into an imene tuki, a Maori hymn, its power reverberating off the white walls. The entire Cook Islands Christian Church congregation is here; when the service ended, we all proceeded to the hospital. People are standing, sitting, crying. Some are gathered outside, shaded by a tree from the tropical sun. Here, on Rakahanga, in the far northern reaches of the Cook Islands, we’re
40 • ESCAPE
eight hours and 1200 kilometres from the country’s capital, a surgeon, or an international airport. The government is paying Air Rarotonga more than $20,000 to pick the girl up and take her to Rarotonga. But there’s no airstrip here; she needs to get to Manihiki, an atoll 45 kilometres away, before the plane arrives. The seas are rough and all we’ve got is the aluminium fishing boat we came in, but for the hardy island people, difficulties like these are easily overcome. With astonishing efficiency and a resourcefulness borne of living in isolation, the men of the village organise the patient’s transport. Her uncles and
cousins lift her mattress onto the back of a tractor, the most suitable vehicle in the village for this task, and at the wharf they lower her into the boat. Two sticks are cut from a nearby tree, a rope tied between them, and a tarpaulin draped over the top like a tent, to shield the girl from sea spray. Throughout the two-hour journey to Manihiki, a nurse will sit next to her mattress, holding an IV high above her head. We came to Rakahanga from Manihiki in the same boat. The purpose of our quick trip was to bring a nurse who would replace the woman that had finished her six-month rotation in the Rakahanga Hospital and would be returning to Rarotonga. At the time I was staying on Manihiki doing research for a book I was writing, and I was invited to come along. The men we came with were atoll fishermen who knew how to read the stars and the swells, how to interpret the rhythms of the natural world. When they picked me up from a tiny dock near the place I was staying, the aluminium boat was packed gunwale to gunwale with fuel drums for Rakahanga’s generators and containers of food for cousins. I was
"Compared to Rakahanga, Rarotonga feels like an urban sprawl."
offered smiles, a raincoat, sunblock, and a coconut – provisions I would appreciate equally over the course of the journey. The man who would be steering the boat prayed for a safe journey. On the horizon were rough seas and a curtain of rain. We motored slowly out of Manihiki’s lagoon, through a passage in the reef. During the two-hour journey across a wind-whipped ocean, the sea splashed us in bucketful’s. When we arrived at Rakahanga, the captain’s eyes were red. He’d navigated without instruments, using only the sea and the sky, even in stormy conditions. We tied up at the concrete wharf, and some locals got up from where they were sitting, on the back of a tractor, to unload the boat. They helped us onto the tractor for the drive to the hospital, its courtyard a
gathering place in the centre of the village. Dozens of people were seated around two long tables laid with bowls and platters of fish and taro and papaya and rice. Flies circled lazily over the food. We were the guests, so we ate first, island style, with our hands. The nurse who would be leaving Rakahanga to return to Rarotonga spoke to me in English about how she wasn’t ready to go. She missed her kids and her island, but she would miss the freedom of this place and its total separation from the stresses of city living. Compared to Rakahanga, Rarotonga feels like an urban sprawl. This atoll of four-square kilometres and 90 people, about 10 of them elderly and 30 of them kids, has one crushed-coral road. It winds through fishponds and taro
ESCAPE • 41
swamps; pigpens and palm trees; colourful houses with pareu for doors; a cemetery in the forest with tombs big as houses; dense thickets you can get lost in and white-sand beaches you can have all to yourself. The afternoon was intensely hot. Most people were on their verandas, fanning themselves, sleeping on mattresses or sitting in chairs, waiting for the heat to ease. I borrowed a motorbike and drove to the island’s undisturbed outer edge, where there were only birds and breaking waves and peninsulas of makatea jutting into the sea. I came across a group of women sitting on plastic chairs by the lagoon’s edge, weaving mats of pandanus, their children swimming, their babies sleeping on pareu in the shade. I paid a visit to the island’s seaside school, Rakuraku School, which has a student
42 • ESCAPE
“I wanted to come here to teach on a sinking atoll,” he said to me, gazing at the seashore bordering his school, “but now I’m here for different reasons.” population of 26. The principal is a Kiwi who feels at home in the islands; he spent years teaching on Atiu, he fishes and hunts and has Cook Islands tattoos. He’s proud of his students and eager to show off his library, stocked by books that people all over the world donated when he posted a plea to his Facebook page.
“I wanted to come here to teach on a sinking atoll,” he said to me, gazing at the seashore bordering his school, “but now I’m here for different reasons.” In the late afternoon, there was a village football game. The grass field was bordered by coconut palms, silhouetted
against the pastel glow cast by a setting sun. Old people and young children watched and cheered as everyone else – schoolchildren, their principal, their parents, the pastor – rotated in and out, sharing shin-guards and highfives. Fumbles prompted a cacophony of laughter from the sidelines. In the Cook Islands there is always laughter, at comedy and tragedy and discomfort, because there always should be. My camera intrigued the kids. They pulled my hair and smiled and stared and posed for photos. One asked me if I’d ever heard of a place called Avarua, the capital of the Cook Islands. It struck me that he’d never been to Rarotonga, which for most of the world is already a step back in time. As on the other atolls of the northern Cook Islands, life on Rakahanga is simple.
Here, it’s back to basics. This kind of life is wrought with particular hardships, but also with particular privileges – it just depends on how you look at it. Rakahanga gets a boat carrying basic cargo – rice, flour, sugar, fuel – every four or five months. Very few tourists come here. The young people who watch movies or return home after living overseas
My camera intrigued the kids. They pulled my hair and smiled and stared and posed for photos.
Spectacular Overwater Night Show & Buffet Dinner!
Book now! Ph: (682) 24006 www.tevaranui.co.ck
44 • ESCAPE
complain that life on Rakahanga is boring, but the ones who leave miss it. Always their dreams return to their island home – the fresh fish, the pervasive peacefulness, the air that smells of woodfires and sea salt and tipani trees. When I returned to the place where I was staying, the 11-year-old daughter of the house was on the couch with her cousins, watching Mr Bean in French, the only programme on TV. They asked me if I knew anyone famous and then they wanted to take photos. After a beautiful dinner of sweet kuru and barbecued fish, the girls disappeared into a room, giggling, and then emerged with their hands behind their backs. Shyly they presented me with gifts of a rito hat, a kikau broom,
Always their dreams return to their island home – the fresh fish, the pervasive peacefulness, the air that smells of woodfires and sea salt and tipani trees. an ei of shells – the woven handicraft a physical expression of true Cook Islands hospitality, a spirit of giving that renders you speechless and penetrates your soul. Bedtime was early because it was Saturday and church begins at 6:15 am on Sundays. Like most Pacific Islands people,
the people of Rakahanga are devout. The Cook Islands Christian Church holds services on Wednesdays and Fridays, and three on Sundays. At dawn I donned my new hat and a borrowed dress, three sizes too big, and joined the procession of people moving toward the limestone church – men in jandals and suits, women in woven hats, children in plaits. Inside the green church, the rafters are dark tamanu – Pacific mahogany – and
Experience all that’s good about the Cook Islands ...in a truly romantic beachside location
From quality accommodation – each room with an outdoor shower – to superb island cuisine in our ‘toes-in-the-sand’ restaurant, with cocktails on the beach at sunset... the holiday of your dreams is waiting for you here. For enquiries: phone (682) 22461 | email: rooms@manuia.co.ck | www.manuia.co.ck ESCAPE • 45
“Hello,” he said, looking down at me from a lace-draped pulpit. “I don’t know your name, but thank you for being part of our family.” An elegant 4.5 star Polynesian styled boutique beachfront resort and restaurant. Showcasing 17 premium luxury villas set in tropical
between them are lacquered floral patterns. From the ceiling hang a chandelier and a Union Jack. Somewhere the middle of his Maori sermon, the orometua stopped to address me in English.
gardens, each featuring its own plunge pool. “Hello,” he said, looking down at me from a lace-draped pulpit. “I don’t know your name, but thank you for being part of our family.” After the service, the whole congregation walked together down the coral road to the hospital, to pray for the patient we would be taking with us to Manihiki. As we’re loading the boat, I hear a chorus of farewells.
Beachfront Restaurant & Bar Cook Islands ‘Restaurant of the Year 2015’
Exclusive Beachfront Wedding Ceremony & Reception Venue
TILUS U A N RESORT MURI BEACH
COOk ISLANDS
P: +682 25125 E: relax@nautilusresortrarotonga.com 46 www.nautilusresortrarotonga.com • ESCAPE W:
“Bye Rachel!” I’m getting hugs and kisses and shouted prayers, and I’ve only been here 24 hours. It strikes me that there’s something extraordinary about a community that showers you with love and kindness and welcomes you as one of its own, even though no one really had a chance to get to know you at all.
Pearl & Art Gallery
C O O K
I S L A N D S
P E A R L S
Simple Elegance & Timeless Beauty
Local Art by: Judith KunzLe - Limited edition Prints • ALLAn tuArA - traditional Carving
Located UPTOWN Avarua, Taputapuatea • ph (682) 22312 • www.moanagems.co.ck
Cook Islands Retailers Moana Gems The Pearl Lounge Paka’s Pearls Goldmine Far from the clamour of our everyday urban world, in the vast blueness of the Pacific, lies the pristine necklace of the Northern Cook Islands. The remote home of Avaiki pearls. From their clear depths, the profusion of green, blue, aubergine and silvery hues in Avaiki pearls capture the rich colours of the lagoon. For discerning jewellers and jewellery buyers who demand beauty, rarity and integrity, Avaiki pearls have a special appeal. Only the highest grades of pearls sustainably harvested from the lagoon become Avaiki pearls. Their consistently deeper nacre creates higher lustre and resilience - a rare beauty to stand the test of time.
www.avaikipearls.com
Story: Florence Syme-Buchanan Photos: Noel Bartley & Julian Zeman
The
palace of Pa Ariki
centre of health & wellness
48 • ESCAPE
W
hen the doors of Takitumu Palace opened to the public in December 2014, it was for the first time in history that a paramount chief had made an official residence accessible to locals and tourists alike. It’s the only chiefly palace in the country that actively encourages all to visit and learn the rich history of Pa Ariki and the district of Takitumu in its museum. The entire concept of welcoming all is the vision of Marie Pa Ariki – paramount chief of Takitumu. For the past 25 years Marie Pa Ariki has overseen her Takitumu people as paramount chief – a title she inherited from her mother Terito who passed away in 1990. Marie Pa was just 42 years old. The palace, is a sprawling unpretentious, one-story building set back from the main road by a large, manicured lawn and gardens in Turangi, a quiet hamlet of Ngatangiia village. It has three wings to represent the three villages in Vaka Takitumu – Matavera, Ngatangiia, and Titikaveka – just the way her mum had wanted. “I am proud of the palace,” says Marie Pa, ‘because it was always my mum’s dream’. Each wing of the palace serves a different function. On the left is a residence, intended to accommodate visiting chiefs
and dignitaries; the centre is a museum, a window into both the life of Marie Pa and Polynesian traditions; on the right is a health and wellness centre. The health and wellness centre was inspired by Pa’s passion to change the habits her people developed when they turned away from living off the land and toward imported food. “I know it’s not my job and I’m not a doctor but I’m very concerned about my people,” she says. “You know, they’re dying too early. We have stopped using the things our ancestors did. Our ancestors were healthy. Today the people say, ‘we’ve got our tablets,’ but that is not enough”. Several years ago, Aunty Pa decided to make the health of her people a priority. She felt her chiefly obligation to do something. Pa also felt personally the weight of non-communicable disease, as it had taken from her too many friends, relatives and neighbours. She thought back to her childhood, when she’d drink coconuts and play netball, and then thought about how drastically times have changed. It concerns her deeply how kids are drinking Coke and watching TV. For three months, she went to the National Archives every day and read public health reports that revealed to her how quickly rates of diabetes and heart disease had skyrocketed in the Cook Islands. She threw the weight of her rank behind a media campaign, and would speak often to the newspapers about the nutritional benefits of coconuts and local produce. The health and wellness centre in the Takitumu palace is an extension of that movement. Spread across tables are pamphlets explaining the risk of diabetes, healthy-eating cookbooks, and guides to the nutritional value of local food. This is Pa’s way of chipping away at attitudes toward eating; one brochure on the table
ESCAPE • 49
calls health education in the islands ‘grossly inadequate’. The museum is a gateway to the building’s other wings. It contains a large assortment of things Pa has collected over the course of her 25-year reign and on her travels throughout the Pacific. There are magnificent tapa cloths, polished boar pig tusks, newspaper clippings, a photo with Nelson Mandela. There are also photos from the days she spent sailing across the Pacific on a traditional voyaging canoe. Marie Pa was the first woman to join the resurgent movement in the early 1990s to reclaim navigating and voyaging as part of modern Polynesia. The memorabilia in the palace pays tribute to Pa’s life and passions – her campaign against diabetes, her milestones, the 33 mataiapo (chiefs) and 14 rangatira (sub-chiefs) that fall under the title of Pa Ariki. Marie Pa calls them her pillars of support, all of whom were invited to bring photos and artefacts they thought worthy of display in the museum. Pa Ariki wants to find funding to turn the wellness centre into a fully functioning health clinic, so the people in her village don’t have to travel to the other side of Rarotonga for medical care. Already she’s had expressions of interest from doctors and nurses, and even a podiatrist; she just needs to find the funding to pay them.
"The memorabilia in the palace pays tribute to Pa’s life and passions" Three Cook Islanders are providing therapeutic massages at the centre. Husband and wife team Danny and Nga Maitoe have been doing traditional massaging for over 30 years on Rarotonga. Inano McMurchy a practising massage therapist is qualified in a range
50 • ESCAPE
of different types of massage. All use natural, traditionally made coconut based oils. Chantal Napa manages the Pa Ariki Palace. She shares the vision and enthusiasm of her aunty Pa Ariki, whom she affectionately refers to as ‘mum’ in conversation. A visitors book has been signed by hundreds since the doors of the palace were officially opened – Chantal says opening the place to the public was ‘breaking ground’ for the country. “In the past the palaces of our Ariki were only ever used for ceremonies, formal functions…that sort’ve thing. Marie Pa has changed all that so anyone can come through the doors”. Marie Pa also has a vision of building the Cook Islands’ first retirement village and intends to donate some land for the project. Traditionally families cared for their elderly, but as modernity and depopulation corrode engrained social structures, some old people are forgotten, says Pa. She wants them to have a place to live and interact with other people and receive care if they need it. In the meantime, Pa Ariki is focusing on bringing her palace to the people. She wants locals to feel comfortable going in for a wellness check-up or a massage. Pa would love primary schoolteachers to
HIGHLAND PARADISE
AWARD WINNING CULTURAL SHOW & UMU FEAST
“KA’ARA” DRUMS OF OUR FOREFATHERS
Above: Remains of the old palace. Below: Interior of the museum. Previous page top: Marie Pa Ariki. Previous page bottom: Massage therapist Inano McMurchy.
SHOWTIMES – MONDAY / WEDNESDAY / FRIDAY @ 5PM INCLUDES – RETURN TRANSFERS / VILLAGE TOUR KIA ORANA COCKTAIL / TRADITIONAL UMU FEAST AND OUR AUTHENTIC CULTURAL SHOW bring in children for field trips. In July 2015, Aunty Pa celebrated a quarter-century of her holding the Pa Ariki title. She hopes Takitumu will recognise the palace as one of the significant achievements of her reign. “Being an ariki, people look up to me,” she says. “They expect me to work in with our people. I’m not perfect, but I have tried my best to work in with our people.”
Fact File The museum and wellness centre are open weekdays from 10am to 2pm. It is situated on the main road in Ngatangiia. Chantal is willing to open by appointment also.
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PHONE 21924 WWW.HIGHLANDPARADISE.CO.CK TUESDAY & THURSDAY 9.30AM – 1PM
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Polynesian Pampering
Y
ou’re on holiday! It’s time to relax and recover from the stress of everyday life. What better way to do that but to go to a Spa and indulge yourself in luxurious surroundings while being blissfully pampered.
We discovered that there were a number of highly recommended, professionally run Spas on Rarotonga and Aitutaki, so recently we allowed ourselves a little extra in our holiday budget to do just that – chill out and indulge (a practice I now thoroughly recommend to all my friends). The following is just a little taste of what to expect…
Spa Polynesia is part of the Rarotongan Resort but as with all spas in the resorts, anyone can go. One of the special features of this spa is that it has its own pure blue pool, complete with four poster beds, loungers and a jacuzzi where you can recline and laze to your heart’s content before and after your treatments. You can order drinks to be brought in from the hotel bar to extend your stay even further, and a speciality of the spa is that their therapists will come to you. So if you are in your room at the hotel, on the beach, or even if you fancy a rub down in the hotel’s tropical gardens, you can book a massage and have it delivered right to you. When I visited the spa I started off with the Tropical Bath Soak. You get a full hour to move between a creamy milk bath scented with Rarotongan flowers, a cold shower to freshen up, and your very own private sauna. You can share the experience with your partner as well for a truly romantic treat. I managed three cycles of sauna, shower, bath which refreshed my skin and
Spa Polynesia
AVARUA SHOPPING CENTRE
The
Rumours Waterfall Spa
Spa
calmed me, before I was called in for the next stage in the treatment. The coconut cream body scrub exfoliated with natural sea salt, at the same time as moisturising deeply with creamy coconut oil, leaving my skin invigorated and ready for the next stage. After a quick shower, the final stage was a thorough going over for those aching muscles - a Mirimiri full body massage. You can have your choice of a deep tissue or relaxation massage. I chose a bit of both, with deep tissue on my back and a more soothing, but still invigorating relaxation rub for the arms and legs, which was no problem for my therapist. All of the spas I visited were not exclusively for the ladies and offered a range of treatments for couples to share. So men looking for their first spa experience, who need a little moral support, can have the treatment of their choice with their partner in a shared room. This is a perfect experience for any couple and many men will love the deep tissue work of the Swedish massage. All of the spas offer their full range of treatments for men, as well as some facials and massages which are specially designed for them. Be careful though – once he has
experienced this, he might want to start joining you on your trips to the beauticians back home! Spa treatments have become an essential part of a holiday for many, and the range and quality on offer here in Rarotonga leave you spoilt for choice. Whatever you decide on, the treatment you have will leave you relaxed, glowing and ready for the tranquillity of the rest of your holiday.
Fact File Spa Polynesia at Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa Tel: 31200 www.aitutakilagoonresort.com Ariki Spa | Tel: 23953 www.crownbeach.com Edgewater Resort & Spa | Tel: 25435 www.edgewater.co.ck Rumours Waterfall Spa | Tel: 22551 www.rumours-rarotonga.com Spa Polynesia at The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa | Tel 25800 www.therarotongan.com Te Manava Luxury Villas & Spa Tel: 28140 www.temanava.com The Spa | Tel: 23000 www.muribeachclubhotel.com
Ph: 23000
Located at Muri Beach Club Hotel
ADVERTORIAL
THE PERFECT HOLIDAY TREAT
T
he one thing I wanted to do during my holiday in Rarotonga was to go to a spa and enjoy a blissful massage – read: an hour of peace and quiet, desperately needed. Rumours Waterfall Spa made my wish happen for me and it was every inch the luxe experience I had hoped for. Having never visited Rarotonga before I had no idea that Rumours was located a mere 150m walk from our rented accommodation, just south of popular Muri Beach. Upon entering I noticed two things; the first was the number of awards that were tastefully decorating the walls. Most recently Rumours was awarded Best Luxury Beauty Spa in Rarotonga, actually they’ve won the award every year since 2011! Secondly, one can’t ignore the beautiful rock waterfall in the reception area which instantly set the tone I was looking for, peace and tranquility. We were booked in for 60min relaxation massages described as a smooth flowing massage that induces deep relaxation, improves circulation and ultimately relieves muscular tension. The ultimate stress reliever! The treatment room was as you’d expect from a spa with such glowing accolades, spotlessly clean but also effortlessly comfortable. I sank into the massage table and tuned out for the next hour. I’ve had what I thought were full body massages before, but this was indeed a full body massage including my buttocks and face – both of which were amazing! The use of locally sourced coconut oil for the massage was the pièce de résistance. I’ve always wanted to try this natural super-oil as a body moisturiser and let me tell you the proof is irrefutable! My skin was transformed instantly and the superhydration lasted for 2 days after the massage!
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If you have saved and planned like we had, I absolutely recommend taking some time (and allocating some holiday budget) for yourself. The whole experience was more than I had wished for and left me uber relaxed and in the right state of mind to enjoy the rest of my vacation.
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saucy!
A little bit B
ehind the bottles and jars of Trader Jacks handcrafted sauces and preserves is the story of a boutique Rarotonga business that begins in the gardens and plantations of local farmers.
All the delicious concoctions are made from handpicked fruit from Rarotonga and Atiu. The recipes were researched and created by Chris Douglas and are exclusive to the brand. Douglas is the long-time business partner of Jack Cooper (aka Trader Jack). So much so that even Cooper isn’t quite sure exactly what goes into each of the three different chilli sauces or the tasty Green Mango pickle and Pawpaw and Orange jam. There’s also a fiery aged and smoked cayenne pepper
that’s all made in-house at the Atupa factory and Chipotle Salt.
With a long history of supporting local farmers, four years back Cooper began importing serrano chilli pepper seeds to give to local growers. The idea then was for farmers to grow chilli peppers which would be exported to New Zealand. Long story short… except for the common bird’s eye chilli that grows everywhere, agriculture protocols don’t allow export to New Zealand of other varieties of chilli peppers, unless processed. Thus the idea of chilli sauces was formed. At this stage the factory is using an average of 20 kilos a week of fresh serrano, habanero and scotch bonnet chilli peppers grown in Rarotonga and Atiu. Cooper says birds eye chilli aren’t used in the Trader Jacks range as the heat is too harsh. But chilli enthusiasts shouldn’t be dismayed over that – the Coconut Chilli sauce made with fresh ginger and herbs has instant heat. Good with fish and chips. Lime juice in the Red Cayenne chilli sauce makes it special – it sizzles on the tongue as does Cooper’s personal favourite, Habanero with Banana and Mango. Cooper says all three sauces are popular with visitors, particularly chilli aficionados who take the entire range home as gifts or their own pantries. The Pawpaw and Orange jam is terrific on toast, in sandwiches and compliments spicy curries
beautifully. The label of the special smoky, earthy and crisp Chipotle Salt touts that it’s ‘great with everything’. It is. Cooper’s other favourite is the crunchy Green Mango Pickle, not just for its delightful spiciness, but its own heartwarming story. A phase of high winds in 2014 blew nearly all Rarotonga mango trees bare of green fruit. Chris Douglas figuring green mangos would make a great pickle placed an advertisement in the local paper asking school children to collect and deliver them to the factory and earn themselves a bit of pocket money. Being school holidays at the time, children collected and delivered a ton and a half of green mangos. Every single mango had to be peeled by hand with a knife by Trader Jacks staff. Just like every single chilli bottle and preserve jar has to be hand poured and labelled.” It’s hard work,” says Cooper. To keep up with demand and start exporting to New Zealand and “wherever” Trader Jacks is now looking at improving and expanding its operations. A bottling line is on the much needed new equipment list. “We have got a market in New Zealand but unfortunately, we have to upgrade our factory because (the process) takes so long and we just don’t have the capacity to fill New Zealand orders like the supermarket that wants 100 cases”. “You don’t need a big area to grow chilli peppers, so once we get production up we can say to farmers bring all your chilli that you can’t export to us”, says Cooper. The Trader Jacks chilli sauce and preserves ‘taste of the Cook Islands’ range is sold locally at Trader Jacks bar and restaurant (of course!) Foodland and Island Craft duty free.
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A K O R TE TO KAI ing eps on truck e k k c a J r e d Tra rs in the flavou
U
nder the shade of a wild hibiscus tree at Constitution Park in Avarua, close to the Punanga Nui Marketplace – Te Toroka Kai is the perfect spot for a quick bite. Eat on the run, or stop to make use of the recycled oil barrel tables and soak up the sun and fresh air. From tasty bites to elaborate buffets for private functions – Rarotonga’s first ever food truck ‘Te Toroka Kai’ is making good food mobile and fun. In the Rarotongan dialect, Te Toroka Kai literally translated means ‘the food truck’ and since the wheels of the mobile four tonne kitchen began turning on the island, it has speedily gained popularity among locals and visitors alike. In bright, endless summer colours of red and orange, the food truck is hard to miss and has become a firm favourite among workers in the main Avarua township. The sage travel advice of ‘eat where the locals go’ fits the new Te Toroka Kai perfectly. Conveniently stationed in the heart of Avarua on Friday and Saturday afternoons, it’s easy to see why the mobile food truck with its flavoursome offerings
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and open air seating area is a popular lunch spot. Fresh spicy fish tacos, moist pulled pork tacos and the hunger busting Reuben sandwich of corned beef on toasted rye bread with sauerkraut and Swiss cheese, are just some of the favourites on the food truck menu that draw in the hungry crowds, who don’t have to wait long for their taste buds to be satisfied. Those on island time and not in a rush can enjoy their scrumptious meal sitting in the park soaking up the sun, or, during the season – watch majestic whales basking in the warm waters of Rarotonga and putting on a display of tail flukes and breaches. This lunch spot has also become popular among the food vendors at nearby Punanga Nui Market – a testament to the quick and good food being served from Te Toroka Kai. In business now for just a few short months the food truck is the newest venture of business partners Jack Cooper and Chris Douglas. They also run Rarotonga’s most iconic watering hole and restaurant Trader Jacks on the Avarua foreshore, Asian-
fusion restaurant Bamboo Jacks in Tupapa, as well as Blue Pacific Foods - a company dedicated to providing the island with fine food products including Trader Jacks Sauces (featured on the previous page). So it’s safe to say the pair know a few things about good food and fine dining! Originally a milk truck from New Zealand, the stainless steel interior of Te Toroka Kai is kitted out in the latest kitchen equipment and is leading the charge in improving food preparation hygiene on the island and providing peace of mind for diners.
c i t n e h t u A e n i s i u C n a i s A A TA S TE O F A S IA
As well as trucking its flavoursome foods for easy access, the mobile kitchen also carry’s its own power generator and clean water, making it a perfect choice for private functions at any location from secluded beach parties to intimate functions in the back yard. In fact, Te Toroka Kai is receiving rave reviews for the fun and festive feel it brings to private events including children and adult birthday parties and private company functions.
A short stroll east of town PH: 28830 or EMAIL: bamboojacks@gmail.com We also have an air-conditioned private room for dining & meetings (with conference facilities)
In the short time it has been serving up great food, the mobile food truck has become a popular choice for catering at events small and large. Guests can create their own finger licking good sandwiches and hot dogs using fresh ingredients – a popular concept for younger diners who enjoy the freedom of making their own food the way they like it! A special menu or buffet can be planned to make wedding catering fuss free and packed with fun, and even better – there’s no mess or dishes to be done! The food truck concept is a growing global trend that business partners Jack Cooper and Chris Douglas knew would take off in these food-loving islands for both locals and visitors. Although the flavoursome food served from the mobile kitchen is more European style – the taste of the Pacific is infused to give Te Toroka Kai foods their unique and mouth-watering qualities.
try our
Pizza Shack eat in or take out
PH 26464 • info@traderjacks.co.ck ESCAPE • 57
Wheelchair access available
Story: Florence Syme-Buchanan
Celebrating
of sailing
I
t was with 12 old dugout fishing canoes sporting quirky sails made of flour sacks painstakingly stitched together and some keen Kiwi expatriates that a sailing group started on Muri beach in Rarotonga. Seventy-five years and a few cyclones later, the Rarotonga Sailing Club has become one of the country’s most successful, community spirited, sporting clubs training hundreds to sail.
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Like those determined stitches on the early flour sack sails, and sturdy sennit ropes made from coconut husk by Palmerston islanders living in Panama village at the time, the club has edged its way into regional sporting history books, raising the profile of the code with big achievements from small beginnings. Most of the expatriate men who founded the sailing club worked for the New Zealand administration that managed the affairs of the Cook Islands at the time.
Several went on to marry local women – many of their descendants are still on Rarotonga, some carrying on the tradition of sailing and teaching youngsters. So in the 1940’s with heavy fishing canoes and long sweep oars instead of tillers, the good, keen Kiwis and a few locals, would race to Titikaveka – to Fruits of Rarotonga and back to Muri. All good fun that went on until WWII brought about a break in sailing activities for the first and only time in its colourful history.
Life-member Ian Forbes wrote that in 1949 club member and shipwright, Ron Powell ‘put together a masterly kauri planked eighteen-foot replica of a sailing canoe with handmade canvas sails he and his crew member Kari Master had stitched together by hand. This canoe was so superior to all the more heavily built dugout canoes that it out sailed all the other sailboats’. A fire in 1998 that destroyed the two storey clubhouse and all the sunbursts stored underneath the building devastated members. It was back to square one in every sense of the word as all records, memorabilia, trophies and framed photographs were completely destroyed. These included minutes dating back to the 1940’s. Long serving members have taken to writing their recollections of the RSC history so that the club’s long, interesting and valuable contribution to Rarotonga history is preserved. Before the days of clubhouses, members would park their heavy sail boats on Muri beach. Forbes writes: “The eighteen-foot outrigger canoe was a large and heavy beast to lift up and down the beach. Even though we used the coconut frond stems laid out on the beach to slide the boats on, many backs were damaged in the hard work of bringing the boats ashore above the high water mark for storage. In 1958 a severe storm with tidal surges of mountainous waves crossing the reef at Muri washed away, or smashed, during the night, almost all the outrigger canoes stored on the grass above high water mark. Only a few canoes survived this storm. However sailing continued on with some of the older dugout canoes brought back into service”.
It was then decided that building new plywood canoes with better sails and equipment would result in faster racing. It did. Again these boats would be parked on the beach. Again another cyclone came and wiped out the entire fleet. Undefeated by yet another setback, members decided another type of boat which could be easily moved to higher ground and placed safely away in racks
would be far more sensible, cyclones being a fact of life in the Cook Islands. It was also time to upgrade from the tin shed to a proper clubhouse. A lease was negotiated with landowner Papo Kekena for the beachfront land on which the existing RSC stands. The money to build was raised through debentures taken out by members and over many weeks of working bees the new clubhouse was built.
ESCAPE • 59
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Ian Forbes recollects: “A dozen or so large coconut trees were still growing when the clubhouse was completed. Don Dorrell produced for the working bee a newfangled chainsaw. All the trees except one were safely felled and rolled away. On the official opening day another working bee decided to fell the only remaining coconut tree to make way for more parking. Don Dorrell took up the challenge with many hands on ropes in a strong onshore breeze and with his trusty chainsaw felled this tree right through the new clubhouse. The opening of the Clubhouse with all it new bar facilities and now more flexible drinking privileges provided by the new Resident Commissioner, Olly Dare made a very successful evening with the coconut tree still where it fell”. With limited other places to have a drink and socialise, the club became quite the party centre of the island. A truck full of people would leave town on Saturdays for Muri for sailing and socialising. Full of happy, tipsy sailors the truck would return everyone home at night. It was probably in 1970 that the club competed in its first international event, the then South Pacific Games held in Tahiti and sailing a ‘fireball’ yacht. Forbes who competed, wrote of that race: ‘My sailing mates believed that we had cracked it having a real `fireball' yacht to practice with before we went to Tahiti. Alas we were done like a stuffed turkey by the French who had sailed these extreme conditions
outside Point Venus for two years with the assistance of the French Navy’. How the club was donated the ‘fireball’ by Geoff Palmer, then managing director of Leopard Breweries, Forbes memoirs state: “This company was the first to introduce tinned canned beer with a can opener to the Cook Islands. It was a great success because in past times only beer in large bottles could be obtained that had to be returned to the `Bond' (government alcohol store) before another dozen could be purchased. These bottles were returned to New Zealand to be refilled. Buying canned beer increased the Leopard Breweries sales so much that the managing director came to Rarotonga to see why for himself. It was then that I asked for his sponsorship of a `fireball' yacht. He agreed without any argument having sailed one of the boats himself in earlier days’.
“The success of the sailing club over these years is that it’s gone from being a club for expats and the occasional local to being a community sports organisation”. During the construction of the Rarotonga international airport in 1972, Ian Forbes paid twenty-five pounds for the no longer needed wooden airport control tower which stood on 12 metre high steel pipes. The structure stood for many years on Muri beach as an ideal starter’s platform overlooking the whole lagoon. It was during this time that Sunbursts were introduced. The two person, 12 foot long Sunbursts equipped with sails and a spinnaker were much more involved. The club called them ‘father and son boats’, and being New Zealand class, members could compete against visiting Kiwi sailors. The RSC grew from strength to strength, membership increased and so did the drive to teach young members, says Peter
Heays who has served a total of 12 years as club commodore (each term is two years). The club can boast a distinguished history of commodores – judges, a former prime minister, community and business leaders. Plywood optimists were brought in for seven to 16 year olds, before the club advanced to international class fibre glass boats which were much more manoeuvrable, faster and lighter. It was from here that the young ones began to make the clubs’ mark in international competition. It was also the real morphing of the RSC from being an adult social club to a training ground for youngsters and nurturing them through to international events. Heays says the RSC is now a community club with four times as many kids as members, plus the regular adult sailors. “The success of the sailing club over these years is that it’s gone from being a club for expats and the occasional local to being a community sports organisation”. In the last 10 years the club has taken to sailing over the reef in the open ocean. “Which is why our kids do so well internationally because they aren’t afraid of waves, high winds or sharks…they’re used to it all now. But back then it was ‘oh @#!% there’s sharks out here”.
ESCAPE • 61
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Still popular with expatriates in Rarotonga on contracts, local membership at the RSL has swelled to the point that Cook Islands Maori kids are the majority. Up to a hundred children can be seen on Saturday’s learning to sail and the RSL has encouraged local schools to participate in their training programmes. Heays recalls the young RSL teams being at international competitions in New Zealand and people asking who the Maori kids are. “There would be 300 boats at the start line and people would be asking ‘who are these Maori kids here, how come they’re sailing’. They didn’t know about our Cook Islands kids sailing, and our kids loved that”. “Sailing is expensive in New Zealand and very few Maori New Zealand kids are involved in the sport. A parent is looking at $7,000 to start a child sailing in New Zealand whereas here it’s free, the club pays for everything, our kids are really into it’. In the teams racing events, Heays says the RSC kids would speak Cook Islands Maori so they couldn’t be understood. Meanwhile, competing teams would be telling each other what to do in English, ‘which our kids understand so we would win more races than we probably should’ve because of that advantage’. The RSC has discovered over the years that sailing is a sport where girls are inclined to do better and dyslexic children tend to be excellent sailors. Heays says three of the RSC top young sailors in the past ten years have been dyslexic – ‘while they’ve struggled at school, when it comes to sailing they’re just champs, sailing takes a lot of brain work’. Sponsors made it possible for RSL to bring in seven Open Bic’s for older children who
have competed in New Zealand regattas and have performed extremely well. As a 50th anniversary project, club members built an outrigger canoe with sails. It was this model that long serving member Thomas Koteka used to construct an upgraded version with a more modern tiller and sails. Heays says it was Koteka’s dream to see the canoe back in the RSC racing class again. Called the Tangaroa 18 class, the club now has 11, with Koteka building the first seven in his garage. It was seven years ago that RSC did a full circle and came back to using canoes. All thanks, says Heays to Thomas Koteka having a ‘vivid dream one night and deciding the vaka should be back in class again’. Over recent years the RSC has formed a partnership with the Cook Islands Voyaging Society. Heays said the club is working with the Voyaging Society to try and establish a way forward for young ones who can progress from RSC to a career path in ocean voyaging vakas. Heays gets excited talking about the career possibilities that superyachts open up for young Cook Islanders. The club is working with superyacht captain Max Cummings – the vision being to get as many young Cook Islanders possible in the superyacht industry. Heays says having the support of Captain Cummings
“All these local children being trained to sail, they are going to be feeding into ocean vaka voyaging, super yachting, Olympics, regional competitions which is all pretty cool and makes it all very rewarding, because there’s a lot of voluntary work involved”. ESCAPE • 63
We are loving Rarotonga. Today we toured the inland road and found an amazing place like Aladdin’s Cave.
It was the Cook Islands Whale and Wildlife Centre. We spent hours there, it was full of really cool stuff – you will have to come and visit. We tried on an old diving helmet, watched a Stonefish catch it’s prey, sprayed a hot Coconut Crab with fresh water, measured ourselves against a whale bone, watched footage of the Humpback Whales here and had a great coffee. Be sure to have a look at our photos on Facebook under CIWWC. Wish you were here. XXXX
“People call it boys with their toys but it’s all quite serious, we’re always up there in the top three’, says Heays with a grin. is extremely valuable as he grew up on the tiny northern island of Manihiki and appreciates how the industry offers many opportunities for young Cook Islanders.
The high point of your trip 30 minute scenic flight
“All these local children being trained to sail, they are going to be feeding into ocean vaka voyaging, super yachting, Olympics, regional competitions which is all pretty cool and makes it all very rewarding, because there’s a lot of voluntary work involved”. Back to the 1998 fire. No one is quite sure how it started in the middle of the night ‘it could’ve been the kitchen, it could’ve been the wiring’. Heays says the wooden building had been penetrated by salt and was very dry, ‘it just exploded’. “We had to start all over again”.
Our high wing Cessna operates on
LM/SD 2023019a
demand with a minimum of two passengers. Daily flights (after mid-day on Sunday) from Rarotonga Airport, $129 per person.
PHONE 22888 TO BOOK 64 • ESCAPE
With insurance, the RSC was able to negotiate a pay out that helped purchase new equipment that had been lost in the fire and rebuild a slightly smaller building. The new clubhouse, also home to Sails Restaurant, opened in 2000.
But with a new clubhouse, new equipment and very few boats due to the fire, a mayday was sent out asking for boats to be donated or sold cheaply. The club ended up with seven from New Zealand which were bought by members. The RSC now has 14 sunbursts stored racks and another 12 stored in containers for team racing. Every three years the RSC holds the Electron class world champs attracting up to 40 competitors. “People call it boys with their toys but it’s all quite serious, we’re always up there in the top three’, says Heays with a grin. The Electron class has been part of club competition for 15 years. Thus, the RSC, the longest established club on Rarotonga celebrates its 75th anniversary in 2015. Affected by WWII, two cyclones, a fire, being the social venue for island nightlife, changing over the years from being an adult orientated organisation to one which has trained hundreds of children to sail and love the sport and having limitless community spirit, the RSC is certainly the country’s most eventful and successful club. Photography: Noel Bartley, plus many members of the RSC whose valuable contribution helped make this story possible.
village life
Our Sailing Days at Muri Story & artist: Joan Gragg
I
would say our Dad was an adventurer and he wanted us to be adventurers too.
Our family always had a boat. Once we went on a trip from Avarua harbour to Ngatangia harbour. We anchored in the lea of Motu Namu. At night we slept on the boat and during the day we swam and explored the motu. It was the best holiday we had. It was a very long way to Muri where we sailed and kept our canoe. We rode our bikes from Tutakimoa to Muri, sometimes our friends the Lows gave us a ride in their homemade truck called Sally. When Sally started up all the dogs in the neighbourhood barked. For some reason the sound of her engine drove them crazy. By the time she arrived at the intersection of Tutakimoa Road and Moss Road to pick us up you couldn’t hear yourself think, every dog in Tutakimoa was out jostling for position, trying to bite her front wheels, taking up the entire road barking and snarling. Before we were recruited to sail on our own we swam in the lagoon, from the time we arrived at Muri until we were chased out of the water at sunset. Occasionally we crewed in a race with Dad or Uncle Carry Marsters, but once we were a team of proper sailors we had no choice, we sailed every Saturday and sometimes on a Wednesday afternoon. At the start of our sailing careers there were only girls in our family. Our oldest
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Once we went on a trip from Avarua harbour to Ngatangia harbour. We anchored in the lea of Motu Namu. At night we slept on the boat and during the day we swam and explored the motu. It was the best holiday we had. sister, Marie was 10 years old and our youngest, Bets was 2. The rest were, Joan 9, Mariana 8 and Linda 5. Our brothers were waiting in the wings to be born. As sailors the first thing we did when we arrived at Muri was prepare for the race. Our heavy dugout canoe was kept at Muri, turned upside down on the grass above high water mark and it had to be carried down to the water’s edge every time we raced. Our Dad taught us to be competitive, rig our canoe, step the mast and be responsible for our equipment. Details were checked, like the bailer tied with a reef knot onto the canoe, all the halliards tight, the pullies running freely, the outrigger secured, the battens in the sail, the spinnaker and pole stowed in the hull, and the tiller in place.
On calm days we would sail the lightest crew. On windy days all four girls sailed. Before we climbed into the canoe Dad drew a map in the sand to set our course. He made us turn our heads so we could feel the wind on our faces. We would look out at the lagoon and watch the way the wind was blowing. If it was blustery the wind rippled the surface. We watched the pennants on the marker buoys and talked about the tide. Once the race started Dad always walked along the beach and kept us in his sight. On wild days when the wind was blowing south-easterly and we had to tack to Titikaveka on a low tide, a decision had to be made to reef the sails or take a risk to sail on with a full set. Dad would let us choose unless he thought it was dangerous, then he would suggest that we reef the sails. This was very exciting at times. It meant we needed the whole crew. Linda, who was five, would have added little to the weight but was valuable as bailer, because she could stay in the canoe while the rest of us climbed out as far as possible on the outrigger. Our skipper, Marie, kept us as close to the wind as possible as we flew across the lagoon with the outrigger out of the water. On the windward tack when the outrigger was on the downwind side we stacked out to keep the outrigger from ploughing into the tide. We didn’t have much weight so the skipper had to keep a keen eye on the wind to hold a steady course. A huge hazard on the Titikaveka leg was the Doctors’ reef. It ran across the lagoon
from the outer reef almost to the beach, with one break about half way along its length that we had to find and sail through. Our canoe had a fixed keel and so drew about two and a half feet. The look out in the front of the canoe stood up and held onto the halyard to get a better look at the coral heads and estimate whether the keel would clear the coral. If it was not possible to sail over it the skipper had to be told. Flying towards a coral head
I do remember being scared one time when the tide was particularly high and we were all concentrating because visibility was bad, when we realised that we were almost in the breakers, so we had to forgo speed and tactic and concentrate on safety. or trying to get through the Doctor’s reef was always a challenge because we only had seconds to make decisions and a bad decision could lose speed, or we could get stuck on a coral head and have to jump out of the canoe onto the coral head and lift the canoe free. I do remember being scared one time when the tide was particularly high and we were
all concentrating because visibility was bad, when we realised that we were almost in the breakers, so we had to forgo speed and tactic and concentrate on safety. We did win races.
on their own. They sailed sunbursts with retractable centre boards making coral heads much less of a hazard. They were fun days!
As each child left to go for her New Zealand adventure the next person stepped up to skipper the boat, until the boys eventually continued the tradition
The illustration in this story is indicative of those on Joan’s Playing Cards of the Cook Islands. Packs of those cards are available from selected retailers. See Joan’s story and advertisement on page 13. Joan’s art can also be viewed at The Furniture Centre.
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lagoon
THE BIG BLUE
Big, blue, warm, and full of harmless life, the lagoon is not only disarmingly beautiful, but it’s also an invaluable asset for the Aitutaki community.
M
y cousin is spellbound, his eyes fixed on the turquoise lagoon spreading from beneath our little boat, his mouth open in awe.
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“This is unreal,” he says, with intentional stress on the final syllable. He saw this lagoon once, when he was a child, but hazy memories left him ill prepared for its electrifying beauty. This lagoon has a reputation for being one of the loveliest in the Pacific. Even on off days, during rare periods of overcast skies, the water retains a strikingly vivid colour. “No artist’s palette could ever conceive of a more perfect, more luminescent turquoise than that of the lagoon of Aitutaki, arguably the most beautiful in
the world,” Steve Davey writes in his travel anthology entitled Unforgettable Places to See Before You Die. The lagoon covers nearly 70 kilometres of area, and in its centre sits Aitutaki – an atoll except for one volcanic mountain, rumoured in legend to have been stolen from Rarotonga by Aitutaki’s early warriors. A coral reef encircles the entire Aitutaki lagoon, keeping the ocean at bay and protecting the main island and 15 other motu, the local word denoting tiny, flat, uninhabited atolls.
A I T U TA K I • CO O K I S L A N D S
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Without a doubt, Aitutaki’s sprawling lagoon is its foremost tourist attraction. Big, blue, warm, and full of harmless life, the lagoon is not only disarmingly beautiful, but it’s also an invaluable asset for the Aitutaki community. Local people creatively maximise its tourism potential. Signs near the airport advertise day tours, fishing trips, kiteboarding lessons, snorkeling charters, and bonefishing guides. There are SCUBA dives, spearfishing excursions, wakeboarding trips, boats for hire, water taxis. For a waterbaby, Aitutaki is the prototypical playground. Trust me on this one. Through a SCUBA mask I ogled at fleshy, bluelipped clams as big as truck tyres. I went wakeboarding behind a speedboat; lunched on a buffet of fresh fish and fruit aboard a double-hulled canoe; paddled in a six-man canoe against the backdrop of a setting sun; and glided across the lagoon’s placid surface on a stand-up paddleboard. I watched kitesurfers hit ramps in high winds and anglers creep up on the elusive bonefish. Many an afternoon I spent splayed out on a sandbar, half-submerged in water clear as glass and warm as a bath. I had my passport stamped at One Foot Island and spent hours reading on islands inhabited by palm trees and little else. I never tired of playing in this vast marine park.
I watched kitesurfers hit ramps in high winds and anglers creep up on the elusive bonefish. Many an afternoon I spent splayed out on a sandbar, halfsubmerged in water clear as glass and warm as a bath...
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There are, of course, things to do on Aitutaki itself – cultural tours, evening crab hunts by the light of a bright moon, Sunday morning services at the Cook Islands Christian Church, farmers’ markets, dance and drum shows. For bookworms, there are hammocks strung between two coconut trees. For the indulgent traveler, there are seaside bars serving cocktails, fresh fish, and breadfruit chips. For the adventurous, there are undeveloped atolls, home to a cluster of palms and brilliantly white sand, free of footprints, fringed by the lagoon. This is the stuff of fantasy, the picture of a holiday destination conjured by anyone who’s been overwhelmed by traffic or paperwork or monotony, and dreamt of escape.
The landscape hearkens back to a Polynesia of old. This is the Rarotonga of yesteryear – some roads are charmingly unpaved, the airport is an airy, one-room building, and signs warn us to SLOW DOWN as we proceed at less than 20 km/ hr. People wave, cheerful and genuine, happily welcoming us onto their island. My cousin wonders aloud whether they might be waving at someone else, or because we’re driving a car that belongs to our hotel
manager. “Or are they really just that friendly?” he muses. Then, he answers his own question: “Wow.”
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This air is fragrant and the sky, seamlessly blue. Everywhere there is greenery, punctuated only by the vivid pinks, reds, and purples of frangipani, hibiscus, and bougainvillea. The main road is lined with homes, their front yards immaculately raked and planted with flowering trees that cast shade onto well-maintained, white graves. As in Rarotonga, the local people bury their relatives in the yard – a solution to the problem of limited cemetery land, and a means of keeping ancestral spirits near. Local homes are unpretentious, with slatted louvers for windows and pareu fabric standing in for doors. Across verandahs, sheets and clothing line-dry in the gentle breeze. There are a substantial number of empty homes scattered about. For decades the Cook Islands has grappled with the challenge of mass outward migration, but Aitutaki’s depopulation
in particular accelerated in 2010, when Cyclone Pat devastated scores of homes. Now, nature has grown around those concrete building frames whose occupants have departed. Green vines coil themselves around deserted manmade structures, as if to reclaim them. It is increasingly common to meet travelers who reserve most of their time in the Cook Islands for Aitutaki, and use Rarotonga as a point of transit rather than a destination. One couple I met on Aitutaki was visiting for 13 nights. “We were a bit nervous that would be too many nights and we’d run out of things to do,” said an English fellow named Richard, who was preparing to enjoy the final day of his honeymoon. “But we haven’t been bored. Not at all, have we?” he said, turning to his bride, who offered an enthusiastic shake of her head. Next to Rarotonga, Aitutaki is the most visited of the Cook Islands. But while it lags behind Rarotonga in terms of tourist numbers, its international profile has always rivaled the capital island’s. Indeed, Aitutaki has a unique modern history. For one thing, it was the first of the Cook Islands exposed to Christianity. Willingly,
Local homes are unpretentious, with slatted louvers for windows and pareu fabric standing in for doors. Across verandahs, sheets and clothing linedry in the gentle breeze.
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the people of Aitutaki embraced the gospel introduced in 1821 by John Williams of the London Missionary Society (LMS), who brought with him two Tahitian converts named Papeiha and Vahapata. They remained on Aitutaki even after their mentor departed, and within the decade, Aitutaki and the other Cook Islands had adopted the LMS religion.
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Then, a century later, the island was again a point of intersection between the Cook Islands and the rest of the world. During World War II, American soldiers chose Aitutaki to be a South Pacific outpost, as it was strategically located between the United States and Japan. They arrived in droves, and here they built the Cook Islands’ first airstrip and international airport. American soldiers met local women and fathered local children, and today, the G.I. legacy lives on.
Then, in the 1950s, Aitutaki became the Cook Islands’ portal to the tourist community when aviation company Tasman Empire Airways Limited (TEAL) designated one of the motu in its lagoon – Akaiami – a re-fuelling stop on The Coral Route. Solent flying boats came from Auckland via Fiji, Samoa, and Tahiti. Wealthy, glamorous Kiwis – people who could afford the luxury of flying – arrived on Aitutaki, where they would swim and relax as the aircraft topped up its fuel tanks on Akaiami. That decade was the advent of the South Pacific – known then as the South Seas – as a tourism destination, and Aitutaki was swept into its embrace. Today, the Coral Route is no more, but Aitutaki still performs regularly under
the international spotlight. Well-known productions like British series Shipwrecked, American game show Survivor, and Canadian program Survivorman have all filmed episodes on its deserted motu. Tony Wheeler, who co-founded the travel guide Lonely Planet, called Aitutaki the world’s most beautiful island. British news agency Reuters even named it one of the 10 best places to survive a breakup or divorce. As Aitutaki’s profile expands, its tourism industry becomes more fully developed – not as an offshoot of Rarotonga’s, but in its own right. The main island has several resorts, one of them five-star, and the only over-water bungalows in the Cook Islands. Customer service is surprisingly attentive. Some shops are even open on Sundays – a rare circumstance in much of the post-missionary South Pacific. Still, this concerns some locals, and particularly those who meet unfailingly every Sunday near the runway to protect the operation of commercial flights on the Sabbath. They are living proof that despite Aitutaki’s expanding tourism infrastructure, the island retains old-school airs. They are proof that Aitutaki still belongs to Aitutaki, to Polynesia, to what Steve Davey wholeheartedly believes is the most beautiful lagoon in the world.
This, I think to myself, is paradise found – the kind of place that will sear itself into my memory, work its way into my dinnertime conversations for years to come, and beckon me back for another visit.
The highlight of Aitutaki is her lagoon and a visit is not complete without joining us for a fun filled day cruising this spectacular wonder. Explore the incredible marine life while snorkeling and swimming. We offer a range of tours and lagoon taxi services, hotel transfers, snorkeling gear, beach towels, food and beverage options on the famous One Foot Island. We are also ‘Island Wedding’ specialists. Tel: +682 31009 Email: bishopcruz@aitutaki.net.ck Visit our website to discover more...
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g n i s a h C s ’ i k a t Aitu elusive
h s i f e n o b T
he island of Aitutaki has to be one of the most beautiful tropical locations anywhere in the world. It’s an easy 50 min flight north of the main island of Rarotonga in the Cook Islands, right here in the heart of the South Pacific.
Aitutaki’s beauty comes from its breathtaking lagoon that is nothing less than stunning; this same lagoon is also home to the widely sought after bonefish. In fact,
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the Aitutaki lagoon is a haven for some of the largest bonefish in the world. It is only recently however that anglers have become more aware of this treasure chest on the back door step of both Australia and New Zealand. The kiokio, as they are named in Cook Island Maori, are one of the most challenging fish to catch on the planet due to a variety of reasons. They are only found in tropical shallow lagoon areas, they are extremely wary, skittish and are known to spook easily. Bonefish use their sharp eyes against the skyline and the clear shallow water of the lagoon as a defence against predators, including fishermen.
They are highly sought after by anglers from around the globe due to their fighting ability, the difficulty of seeing them, let alone hooking, or even landing them. Bonefish are well-known for their hard fighting ability, as pound for pound they are one of the hardest pullers of line. Aitutaki guide Butch Leone describes them as “Ferraris with fins”. These factors combine to make the bonefish highly sought after; some people spend small fortunes pursuing them in the hope of landing one. Not all are successful, and it is this challenge plus the often associated expense that has them at the top of many fly-fishers bucket list of dream fish.
Story: Alan Syme Photos: Peter Morse and Alan Syme
It is mind blowing to think that the world record fish is still swimming around in the lagoon of Aitutaki right now. Absolutely amazing!!
On the island, the infrastructure and resorts are already established, the people are welcoming, it is safe, it is a good value yet high quality location, it is accessible and stunningly captivating. All of this is aside from the actual fishing.
Not only does Aitutaki have some of the biggest bonefish in the world - it also has accessibility. It is therefore relatively inexpensive to have a chance at catching bonefish compared to many other wellknown tropical locations in the Pacific, Indian and Atlantic Oceans. According to my research the current all tackle world record for bonefish is 8.61 kilos, or 19 pounds (most fly-fisher folk still speak in traditional pounds). That particular fish was captured way back in 1962 off the coast of South Africa. Aitutakian expert Itu Davey (more about him soon) has personally seen bonefish in excess of 14 kilos or 30 pounds plus! It is mind blowing to think that the world
record fish is still swimming around in the lagoon of Aitutaki right now. Absolutely amazing!! Once this becomes widely known it is only a matter of time until a new world record is established by a Cook Islands bonefish. Aitutaki bone fishing is on the edge of a tidal wave of popularity in my opinion, as more and more fly-fishers become aware. I am picking that it will soon become one of the worlds premier destinations for saltwater fly-fishing, once the northern hemisphere markets of America and Europe find out more about it!
The sports bone fishing of Aitutaki is relatively new. Butch Leone, who is an ex pat American, has been fly fishing on the lagoon and successfully taking clients on guided trips for a bit over ten years. Butch has been instrumental in raising awareness of the value of the bonefish to Aitutaki. In 2009 and 2010 the Cook Islands Ministry of Marine Resources (MMR) set about establishing a tourism focused sport
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fishery for bonefish. With assistance from local stakeholders, fishermen, and overseas experts the ‘Aitutaki and Manuae Bonefish Fishery’ was formalised and established in 2010. In order to fish for bonefish, you must purchase a permit; that permit can be for various lengths of time depending on your intentions. As part of this bone fishery establishment, locals were offered training and assistance to become accredited guides. They went through the training programme that involves first aid certificates, safety training, boat master courses and advice on how to deal positively with clients. One of the locals who became an accredited guide is Itu (pronounced E2) Davey, a born and bred Aitutakian from a family who made their living by netting the kiokio. I recently had the pleasure of spending a day chasing bonefish with him and was intrigued to hear of the transformation undertaken by Itu and his family towards the fish. This guy is a real expert. We talked at length and he told me the bright hope that he has for the future:
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The Davey family are well known on Aitutaki for their ability to net kiokio using the knowledge, traditions and techniques passed down through their family. Itu grew up learning the feeding, schooling and behavioural habits of the bonefish; this knowledge was essential to successfully net them. Approached by MMR to establish wether he would like to become a bonefish guide, he was told of the value and potential of a sustainable tourism based sport fishery. Itu says “it makes me very happy now as my family has a future�. His sons have possible future employment, using the traditional knowledge that has been passed down in a positive way.
This knowledge is not lost, but is instead now being used in a sustainable and beneficial way. Itu is also very pleased that his two brothers are involved with the fledging guiding industry that looks set to expand. The Davey family have gone from earning a living gathering the bonefish, to now earning an income from catching and releasing them, which is a totally different mindset. Itu says that “now I really see and appreciate the beauty and the grace of the bonefish where I didn’t view them like that in the past”. This really is a model that can be upheld and used for other species here in the Cook Islands and further afield. The fish are sighted, fought, captured,
The technique for catching bonefish involves silently drifting a boat with the help of a long pole.
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... one of the strongest and fastest moving fish of any salt-water species. photographed and released. They continue to feed, breed and live, meanwhile providing meaningful employment, flow on effects and pleasure for many people, both tourists and locals alike. The technique for catching bonefish involves silently drifting a boat with the help of a long pole. The guide poles the boat and spots the fish from an elevated position on a purpose built platform, at the stern of the boat. The angler, who has been waiting patiently at the bow with the rod ready to cast, then hopefully places an accurate cast of the fly (which is best described as a very small shrimp imitation) near the fish. This is done based on instructions from the guide as to where far the fish is. Sounds easy? Well it can be, but more often than not it is a real challenge and this is part of the attraction of the pursuit. Bonefish are also known as "phantoms of the flat”, “grey ghosts" or “silver bullets”. They are considered, pound for pound, as one of the strongest and fastest moving fish of any salt-water species. Under the excellent eyes of Itu, I was lucky enough to hook up to one of these missiles on the flats.
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Once I struck the hook home the fish put on the afterburners and headed for the horizon, as the reel screamed in protest. It was awesome! After a fight of ten minutes or so the fish was landed and I had a chance to admire the shimmering silver scales up close as photos were taken. They truly are an amazing fish and I now have a deep appreciation of why they are so sought after. I saw how they generate their power from long muscular and athletic bodies that taper into a forked and robust tail which propels them with such great force.
Aitutaki are more likely to gently sip in the fly and then quickly spit it out.
The fish that I landed was considered a small one for Aitutaki, 6 pounds, but this is well above average for most locations in the world. Aitutaki boasts an average of 8 pounds. This is significant when a 10 pound fish is considered to be of international trophy status.
If you are after an idyllic postcard perfect location where you can have a genuine shot at a new world record, or you just want to tick off a new fish species, or just catch a fish, then Aitutaki is where it is at.
Many people have come to Aitutaki to try to catch a “bone” and some go home without the photos that they are after. Bonefish are hard to catch and are very wary in Aitutaki. Unlike some locations such as the Caribbean where the fish pick up the fly and run with it, the bonefish of
Without a knowledgeable guide and a keen set of eyes, many fishermen do not even know that they had a fish inhale their fly. I strongly recommend all fly-fishers to increase their chance of success by using the services of an accredited guide. Their knowledge, skill, eyes and instructions make all the difference. Many guides tie their own flies and will know where to locate the fish at certain times of the tide, moon, season and day.
If you do decide to take up the challenge your guide will do everything possible to get you onto a fish, but it is a demanding test of angling ability especially for first timers using a fly rod. Are you up for the challenge of the Aitutaki silver bullets?
WATER TAXI • WHALE WATCHING • KITE BOARDING • TUBE RIDES • WATER SKIING
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fact file:
P: 31651 or 31657 M: 56558 or 75980 E: wetnwild@oyster.net.ck www.wetnwild-aitutaki.com
SNORKELING • SITE SEEING • SPEAR FISHING • WAKE BOARDING • GAME FISHING
Season: Year round Restrictions: Catch and Release only. Bonefish permit must be purchased (ask your accommodation where you can do this). Technique: Fly-fishing over the extensive lagoon flats
AITUTAKI
Who: With an accredited guide such as: Itu Davey Tel: (682) 31686 or (682) 52077 Email: e2davey@aitutaki.net.ck www.e2sway.com Butch Leone Tel: (682) 31487 Email: flyfish@aitutaki.net.ck or aitutaki4me@yahoo.com www.aitutakibluelagoon.com
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Ph: (682) 31703 or 31103 Mob: (682) 56103 Email: scuba@aitutaki.net.ck ESCAPE • 79
Atiu Re-discovering nature and solitude on ‘the island of birds’.
Enua Manu
T
here are few places left in the world like Atiu, an island with just over 500 people and acres and acres of untouched rainforest and coastal bush. There are no western bars (apart from the small one at Atiu Villas), bright neon lights or busy roads. For travellers searching for an island paradise, Atiu is it. Most overseas visitors to Atiu lament on departure that they wish they’d organised a longer stay on this unspoiled island gem, full of captivating history, scenery and friendly people. The Anatakitaki Cave walk is the perfect offering for visitors who want an unforgettable nature experience. On the day we went, we were guided by Marshall Humphreys. Married to Atiuan Jeanne, Marshall is proud of Atiu conservation and how the locals “always leave a bit for the next day, like when they go fishing and catch just enough to eat.” He’s also impressed with the way the island works as a community. Reasonable fitness and covered shoes are needed for the trek through tropical forest that resembles a fantastically overgrown garden. Regarded by environmentalists as a national treasure, Anatakitaki Cave is home to the Kopeka bird, a swallow unique to Atiu, which like a bat, navigates its way in the pitch black caverns using sonar. The towering limestone caverns contain cauliflower coral, proving that the caves were once beneath the sea, as these coral formations only occur underwater. There are huge stalactites reaching to the cavern floor and massive stalagmites sparkling as though they are embedded with millions of diamonds. The magnificence of the caverns is breathtaking.
u i t A las l i V
Atiu is an exciting eco island adventure you shouldn’t miss. Make this a prime destination or stop off on your way to, or from Aitutaki for a little extra airfare. Stay in comfort at Atiu Villas, the island’s most experienced hosts. Amenities and services include a licensed restaurant and bar, swimming pool, tennis court, tour packages, rentals and free Wi-Fi for emails.
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BOOK ONLINE AT: www.atiuvillas.com Ph. (682) 33 777 | Fax. (682) 33 775 | Email. roger@atiuvillas.com | www.atiu.info
If you’re looking for the perfect Cook Island experience, then this is the trip for you. AITUTAKI
ATIU
George Mateariki, better known as Birdman George, takes us on his morning tour – first stop is to catch a glimpse of the endangered Kakerori bird. We are a bit startled as George begins loudly beeping his car horn as we near the nesting ground. He explains that being inquisitive birds, Kakerori are drawn to unusual noises. He calls to them, walking through the picturesque bush and making kissing noises. The birds do not disappoint, replying with their call sounds. To see Kakerori so close is a real treat, as they were once on the brink of extinction. Along the way, George points out medicinal plants and how they are used to treat various ailments. “I love my history and everything I know about Atiu was taught to me by my grandfathers,” says George.
A fun experience is a visit to one of the legendary Atiu tumunu – ‘clubs’, where local men gather to drink homebrew and chat about island affairs, with clear rules about conduct. Often there’s a stringband for added entertainment. Visitors are always welcome to stop in, partake of a cup of the local brew and meet the locals. “There’s money in the land,” says Mata Arai, pointing to her coffee bushes laden with ripe berries. Mata is an industrious Atiuan woman who produces the 100 percent Atiu Island Coffee using a technique she learnt from her grandmother as a child. It’s a process all done by hand. Atiu Island Coffee can be purchased from Mata’s home, in Atiu stores, or supermarkets on Rarotonga.
RAROTONGA
Air Rarotonga’s
Two Island Discovery
We’ll fly you from Rarotonga to Aitutaki Aitutaki is frequently referred to as one of the world’s favourite islands. It encircles a spectacular turquoise lagoon where opportunities for swimming and snorkelling abound, or you may choose to simply wander the white sand beaches.
… then on to extraordinary Atiu …
fact file: Atiu is a 45 minute flight north-east from Rarotonga and there are regular scheduled flights. Alternatively, why not consider an Air Rarotonga ‘Two Island Adventure’ which includes two night’s accommodation at Tamanu Beach Resort in Aitutaki and two night’s accommodation at Atiu Villas on amazing Atiu. Local tours are optional and extra. Available from April to October, flights depart Rarotonga on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Book through Air Rarotonga Tel: (682) 22888 | www.airraro.com
Atiu is also known as Enuamanu, “island of the birds”. Amongst the magnificent rain forest bird life is prolific. You may even see the recently re-introduced Kura, or Rimatara Lorikeet. Delicious local fruit is always available along with a great brew of Atiu grown coffee.
and back to Rarotonga
LM/SD 2022178B
Another tour takes you to Rimarau Burial Cave that includes visits to age old marae and “walking the dramatic route taken by hundreds as they went to meet their death in ancient times.” If beaches, historic sights and panoramic scenery also appeal, opt for an island tour. It offers contrasting scenery, drives through shady roads and forest thick with ancient trees to coastal tracks and points of interest including the coral garden, sinkholes and fabulous little beaches ideal for shell collecting or leisurely lolling in the warm, pristine sea.
www.airraro.com ESCAPE • 81
d n o m a i Ad I
’ve often described Atiu as hidden treasure. At first glance, it doesn’t look like much. But the longer you stay the more you discover, and soon you’re completely enchanted by the jewellike beaches, fascinating caves and warm people. One of these is Jéanne Humphreys – and it turns out she too, is a hidden treasure. I arrive at her house thinking I’m interviewing an artist – which she is – but it is soon clear that’s just one facet of a diamond of a lady. Jéanne’s mother was originally from Atiu, but Jéanne grew up on Aitutaki, in the care of another family. In the early 1960s, at the age of 11 and speaking no English at all, she was put onto a ship bound for New Zealand. There she was reunited with her mother who lived in Wellington, a far cry from the warmth and community life of Aitutaki. After church on Sundays, young Jéanne was allowed to walk to the museum, where she eventually spent most of her spare time. “It was only later I realised how unusual that was for a child, and that my love of art probably comes from all those hours.” She first picked up a paintbrush in her late 30s when her youngest children – she has seven in all – were still small. Her work reflects the colours and iconic shapes of island living: flora and fauna, palm trees, fish, the ocean. The house she shares with husband Marshall has canvases in every room; but these days much of her art is
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on fabric. Jéanne does the hand-painting for TAV, a Rarotongan clothing label which has exhibited at New Zealand Fashion week and which is exported around the world. Different textiles cover her working space, whether at home on Atiu or at her daughter’s house on Rarotonga: a bolt of white organza covered in yellow hibiscus; tiare maori (gardenia) on lycra; reef & game fish painted on tapa cloth. Jéanne and Marshall moved to Atiu nearly 20 years ago to build a home on Jéanne’s inherited land. At the time they had three children under 10; and life was fairly basic, with electricity running six hours on then six hours off. The children were homeschooled; and the caves and wild coastlines of Atiu became the family’s playground. “Sometimes we’d sleep overnight on the beach, and have a bonfire and cook sausages.” The beauty of the environment also became the source of their income – through tour guiding, the Bed & Breakfast accommodation as well as art. From about the age of 11, each of the Humphreys children took turns guiding tourists through the bush and into the caves, some of which are traditional burial sites full of skeletons. “It was a wonderful childhood for them.” Jéanne’s own background is equally as interesting: she is the daughter of South Seas legend Tom Neale, a man who became famous for living alone on the island of Suwarrow for 16 years. Neale,
birdman GEORGE
the author of ‘An Island to Oneself’, had nothing to do with Jéanne when she was growing up, but she appears neither bitter nor resentful. This may have something to do with another facet of her life: her work as a ‘healing evangelist,’ someone who has travelled the world praying for people, using the power of God to heal both physical and emotional scars. For several years, Jéanne ministered in the Pacific, South-East Asia and Africa, as an evangelist with Go Forth Ministries. In fact, she was the ministry. Today, however, at nearly 64, she travels less and spends more time painting. British-born Marshall, one of the best guides in the Cook Islands, still takes tours and they still run the bed and breakfast. Marshall also makes jewellery and sundried organic bananas, and together they make a living on an island where money can be hard to come by. Choosing to live in the outer islands is never about money anyway.
“I love the peace and the beauty of Atiu,” enthuses Jéanne. “It’s a good community and it never seems small to me.” You get the impression she’s positive about everything. There’s a peace about her, too, and after the interview comes to an end, she prays for me, and I find myself shedding a tear. Not what ordinarily happens at an interview. But then Jéanne Humphreys is not exactly what you’d call ordinary.
fact file
A unique island. A unique guide. Let George show you the highlights of Atiu. Explore the ancient trails, discover the birds, learn the uses of many plants, visit a burial cave, verify the recovery of the near extinct Kakerori bird and picnic island-style at a secluded beach. Atui’s most popular guide!
Phone 33623
Email: atiu@ihug.co.nz or bmateariki@gmail.com
Jeanne’s art is available from the following: Bergman & Sons, Beachcomber Pearl Market Shop, Taputapuatea, Avarua, Rarotonga Tel: 21939 Koru Café at O’otu, Aitutaki Tel: 31110 Jeanne’s Studio at Areora, Atiu Tel: 33041 For more about the Humphreys ’Bed & Breakfast’, tours and art, visit: www.atiutoursaccommodation.com
Phone. (682)33041 | Email. marshall@atiutours.co.ck | Web. atiutoursaccommodation.com
Atiu Tours ’
Atiu B&B Jeanne’s Art
Enjoy personalised bed & breakfast service plus the luxury of a comfortable home away from home. Lunch, dinner & vehicle hire also available.
Irresistible images of Cook Islands flora & fauna
- available from Atiu, Koru Café Aitutaki, Island Living Rarotonga. Email: jeannehumphreysart@gmail.com
Marshall’s Discovery Island Tour, Anatakitaki Kopeka Bird Caves, Rimarau Burial Cave. Secluded beaches, tropical rainforest, amazing caves, rich bird life, ESCAPE • 83 fascinating archeology & legends.
Our South Pacific home
a
sprinkling of island gems on an indigo blue ocean... The Cook Islands combined make up a land area of just 240 square kilometers. They are scattered far and wide in the vast expanse of the South Pacific Ocean, covering a total area of 2.25 million square kilometers. Each of these ‘gems’ is unlike any other; all having their own special characteristics and every one offering a warm welcome to visitors.
The Southern Group Atiu See our story on page 80. Takutea Just a few miles off the coast of Atiu lies the uninhabited island of Takutea. Numerous seabirds thrive on this pristine island that has been declared a bird sanctuary by the Atiu Island Council. Only they can give permission for visitors to land there. Mauke The garden island of the Cook group, Mauke is 18 kilometres around. It is surrounded by makatea (fossilised coral) with a volcanic plateau in the centre. Parts of the foreshore are dotted with isolated white sandy coves and caves that one can swim in. Inland there are fresh water caves and the famous Motuanga Cave
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that has galleries reaching beneath the reef. The reef is so close to the foreshore that crashing white breakers are visible from most of the unsealed coral road that runs around the island. Do visit the “divided church” built where the villages of Ngatiarua and Areora meet. Shared by the two villages, it has two separate entrances and sitting areas. There are clean and comfortable places to stay in Mauke - try Ri’s Retreat or Tiare Holiday Cottages. They can also organise cave, reef and forest tours. Be sure to obtain a garland of the fragrant maire, a creeper that grows along the makatea. Mauke is picturesque, unhurried and tranquil – a wonderful tonic for frayed nerves.
it is any less beautiful than sister islands Atiu and Mauke, but simply that it is the least known. In the centre of Mitiaro are two lakes full of itiki, freshwater eels. Mitiaro itiki are considered a delicacy in the Cook Islands. Tilapia (bream) are also abundant in the lakes. The lakes are from time to time protected by a traditional raui, a prohibition on all fishing to preserve stocks. At its widest point, the island is 6.4 km across and private gardens in the village are beautifully kept and neat. Community activities include fishing, sports, handicrafts and uapou, or village singsongs. Pretty and unspoiled, life on Mitiaro is refreshingly uncomplicated.
Mitiaro Of the cluster of islands in the southern group called Nga Pu Toru, Mitiaro would be the least visited by tourists. Not because
Mangaia Imagine visiting a fairly large island where you and maybe a handful of others are the only tourists. Mangaia is an island
Left: Palmerston Previous page: Mitiaro
exports fish, supplying in particular, parrot fish to Rarotonga restaurants. Palmerston hosts the occasional cruise ship and yachts frequently call in. The island also boasts one of the world’s most isolated bars, where thirsty yachties can enjoy a “cold one” and hear tales being regaled by the islanders. It is 500 km NW of Rarotonga. Manuae Manuae is an uninhabited nature reserve and an important seabird and turtle of incredible, serene beauty – from its rugged coastline to the lush, green interior. It is peaceful beyond belief for those accustomed to the constant rush and haste of the outside world. This is a place where one can trek for miles along the coast or in the interior and not meet another soul or hear a vehicle. Nor see any dwellings; just lots of well-tended plantations of pineapples, vegetables, taro, kumara and other crops. Deep-sea fishing excursions are available – just ask your host, who can also steer you in the right direction for guided tours that include caving, reef/lagoon walks, bush walks and bird watching. Check out the market on Friday mornings in the ‘town’ centre and the craftwork
by the skilled Mangaian women. The shell necklaces and woven pandanus bags are labour intensive and sold for very reasonable prices. Mangaia is the destination for those who love the outdoors, appreciate peace and quiet and want to experience a friendly island that’s not in the least “touristy.” Palmerston Made famous by Englishman William Marsters, who settled there in 1863 with three wives. He later married and raised a large family. Marsters’ modern day descendents are scattered all over the world. About 60 still remain in Palmerston, which has six motu or islets in a big blue lagoon about 11 km across. The family
breeding ground. Its two islets in a large shallow lagoon make-up this incredibly beautiful island, situated about 100 km SE of Aitutaki. Many Aitutakians can claim traditional land rights to parts of Manuae. Once inhabited by work gangs of Cook Islands men who produced copra, it is now only occasionally visited by Aitutaki fisherman for its rich fishing grounds outside and within the lagoon. It is possible to view Manuae from the air, on a flight from Atiu to Aitutaki.
Ever wanted to run away? To get lost on a deserted island? To hide out with a group of friends and stay as long as you want? Why not charter your own plane and explore the magnificent outer islands of the Cooks.*
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Call our Travel Centre on 22-888 and we’ll help you escape!
Optional extras include:
Inflight catering Experienced tour guide Ground tours & sightseeing Overnight adventure accommodation in the far north to luxury resorts on breath-taking Aitutaki
* We also offer charters
Island E scape
to Niue and Tahiti
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The Northern Group Suwarrow Suwarrow is one of the few "untouched" sanctuaries left in the world where existing endangered species can survive. The Suwarrow National Park is the first National Park in the Cook Islands - international environmental groups recognise the group of tiny atolls as an untouched haven and breeding area for turtles, sea birds and crabs. Because of the lack of human intervention, Suwarrow is acknowledged as one of the most important sea bird breeding areas in the Pacific. A caretaker and his family live on Suwarrow during the cyclone off-season, between April and November each year. Yachts often visit the island during these months. Suwarrow was made famous by New Zealand hermit Tom Neale, who lived there during the early 1950’s and again in the early 1960’s. He wrote about his experiences in his book “An Island to Oneself.” Pukapuka Lying northwest 1150 km from Rarotonga, Pukapuka is one of the most isolated islands of the Cook group. One interisland flight from Rarotonga about every six weeks and irregular shipping has kept Pukapuka one of the most untouched and secluded places in the Pacific. Its remoteness has also kept the traditions and culture of Pukapuka largely unchanged for centuries. Islanders speak the distinct Pukapukan language as well as Cook Islands Maori. According to legend, almost 500 years ago the Pukapuka population was almost entirely wiped out during a catastrophic storm that struck the island. Fourteen people survived, from whom Pukapukan’s today are said to descend. The late American writer Robert Dean Frisbie settled there in 1924 and immortalised Pukapuka in the books he wrote about life on the
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island. The now uninhabited area where he lived with his Pukapuka wife and children is one of the most beautiful – an untouched white sandy beach with palm trees reaching out to tease the clear blue lagoon. Nassau Access to this tiny island of about 80 Pukapukans can only be gained by interisland boat. Regarded as the sister island of Pukapuka, a voyage from Rarotonga takes about three days. The islanders are adept at surviving an isolated lifestyle that remains unchanged year after year. Nassau was hooked up to the country’s telephone system only in 2001 and many of the people had never used a telephone before. Just 1.2 sq. km in size, where families live in kikau thatched cottages.
Manihiki The cultured black pearl capital of the Cook Islands. Quality black pearls become centrepieces for fine jewellery that are worn by women and men all over the world. In 1997, the island survived one of the worst cyclones in Cook Islands history.
It claimed 19 lives after a tidal wave swept men, women and children out into the huge, raging lagoon. Pearl farms dot this remarkable lagoon. Villagers use small outboard boats to travel between Tukao and Tauhunu – two villages on separate islets – or to their pearl farms set up on coral outcrops. Some of the pearl farms are sophisticated operations jutting out of the deep blue lagoon, complete with small gardens and poultry farms that help support workers who live in modern quarters. Manihiki women have made history for entering what was once a male dominated vocation. A number of women own and manage their own pearl farms,
Villagers use small outboard boats to travel between Tukao and Tauhunu – two villages on separate islets – or to their pearl farms set up on coral outcrops.
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Above: Penrhyn Previous page: Manihiki
(Penrhyn) has a remarkable blue water lagoon measuring 233 sq km. A 77-km coral reef encircles the islets in the extraordinary lagoon. diving, seeding and cleaning the oyster shells all year around. The women are also renowned for their finely woven craftwork. Manihiki is astonishingly beautiful and those who have been fortunate enough to visit the island, have never been disappointed. Rakahanga Sister island of Manihiki and 42km north-west. Visits to Rakahanga are only possible by boat from Manihiki or inter-island vessel. There are two main islands and seven islets in the Rakahanga lagoon. The island is picturesque and unspoiled. See our Rakahanga story on page 40. Penrhyn Penrhyn (or Tongareva) is the most remote of the Cook group, lying 1365 km NNE of Rarotonga. It has a remarkable blue water lagoon measuring 233 sq km. A 77-km coral reef encircles the islets in the extraordinary lagoon. The villages of Tetautua and Omoka are on different islets that are barely visible to each other. Penrhyn island women make the finest rito craftwork in the Cook Islands. Hats, bags, fans and mats made in Penrhyn are amongst the best to be found anywhere in the world.
Unlimited Kilometres Airport Pick-up & Drop-off Afterhours Roadside Assistance LOCATIONS Downtown Avarua Pacific Resort Muri Rarotonga International Airport RESERVATIONS Phone: (682) 22833 Email: reservations@aviscookislands.com
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great places to stay
r
Manuia Beach Resort
elax by the pool with a tropical cocktail, soak up the sun, rejuvenate your soul, and luxuriate in the warmth of a romantic evening under the stars, with exotic foods and fine wine. Whatever your Cook Islands holiday dream consists of, you can be sure there is a style of accommodation to suit your taste and attentive staff to make all those dreams come true. From deluxe beach resorts to simple budget facilities, you can choose your own standard or quality and plan according to your budget. Here on these pages, we bring you some of the nicest places to stay on Rarotonga.
happy holidays!
Look for this symbol‌ The Cook Islands Tourism Accreditation Scheme is designed to set minimum standards. It will assist you in your choice of where to stay, what to see and what to do. Wherever you see this logo you can be sure that the accommodation establishment, restaurant, retailer, tour or activity operator has met minimum requirements to assure you of good service, good facilities, safe practices and of course friendly Cook Islands hospitality. We highly recommend that visitors use their services. For a full list of all accredited businesses please refer to our website:
www.tourismindustry.co.ck
YOUR PRIVATE PIECE OF PARADISE! Idyllically set on the shores of a sheltered lagoon this intimate beachfront resort enjoys stunning sunsets.
Beachfront and garden bungalows | Onsite restaurant and bar Personal wedding co-ordinator | Rarotonga’s quiet southern coast PO Box 23, Rarotonga, Cook Islands email: beach@palmgrove.co.ck phone: +682 20002 www.palmgrove.net
35 spacious self-catering studios and suites are situated either on the beachfront overlooking the lagoon or beside either of the two swimming pools amid lush tropical gardens. The resort features an open-air restaurant open for breakfast, lunch and dinner 7 days a week.
Phone: (682) 28028 Email: welcome@thesunsetresort.com www.thesunsetresort.com
Welcome to the new Club Raro Resort
With stunning lagoon views from the sun drenched decks, a fantastic swim-up pool bar, International cuisines DQG FRFNWDLOV ZLWK D IXVLRQ RI ORFDO ÀDYRXUV &OXE 5DUR 5HVRUW RIIHUV IULHQGO\ 3RO\QHVLDQ KRVSLWDOLW\ DQG H[FHSWLRQDO YDOXH IRU PRQH\ IRU \RXU QH[W WURSLFDO LVODQG KROLGD\
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*Industry rates available for all members at 20% off rack. Book now for travel and receive industry rates for ESCAPE • you and your friends travelling with you. Quote ESCAPE14ALL when you enquire. Conditions and proof of industry will apply. Contact our team for more details.
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Reconnect with life at our Romantic Island Hideaway. Enjoy child-free tranquillity in a perfect beachside setting. P: (682) 28465 E: sunhaven@beachbungalows.co.ck www.mysunhaven.com
Situated in the heart of popular Muri Beach, our 22 tastefully furnished spacious units & villas are air-conditioned & self-catering. Complimentary kayaks, SUP’s, snorkelling gear, transfers. Friendly staff ensure you of a memorable ‘Rarotongan’ experience.
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Outer Islands travel packages Overseas holiday & cruising packages Fast, reliable & friendly service One stop shop for travel, foreign exchange & money transfers
Phone (682) 27707 | Fax (682) 28807 Email Jetsave@cooks.co.ck www.jetsave.co.ck
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entertainment guide
dancers, & get down to live Cook Islands music & dancing around town.
Take in the sunset with a cocktail near the water; catch an Island Night Show with beautiful
Raro’s night life is special – you can have a great night out whether you’re on your own, or with friends. 18 or 80 years old, it doesn’t matter, everyone just gets together. And you’ll feel welcome wherever you go. Island Night Shows are a must for every visitor. There is nothing better than seeing our beautiful men and women, adorned in flowers and local costume, dancing to the wonderful pate (hollowed wooden drums), ukulele, guitar, and full voiced singers. It is a joyful, sensual and exuberant experience. Check out our Island Night Shows Guide on these pages to find a venue that suits you.
During the week On Monday night at the RSA (or “Razza”), just opposite the Airport, DJ MacDad gets a great crowd going at around 9pm till 12 midnight. A number of Rarotonga restaurants feature live music during the week - refer to our Night Life Guide for details of what’s on, when and where. It’s great to wander into some of our smaller local bars too - the Game Fishing Club is right on the water; meet the locals and play some pool. Chillies Bar is great for a cold beer and occasionally some footie watching on their big screen. Both of these bars are just east of town. The Nu Bar is a wonderful little local bar/restaurant near the airport, serving great value food and a nice selection of music. Also try Hideaway Bar in Cooks Corner, for a more eclectic feel. On the eastern side of the island, the Avana
TE HANA WHICH MEANS “TO SHINE” IS VIBRANT AND CONTEMPORARY, WITH BRIGHT, CLEAR FLAVOURS THAT BRING TO MIND THE NATURAL BEAUTY OF ITS HOMELAND NEW ZEALAND.
AVAILABLE AT THE BOND STORE AND ALL GREAT ESTABLISHMENTS. 92 • ESCAPE
If you’re staying around the Muri or Titikaveka area, try Silver Sands Restaurant at Muri Beach Club Hotel, Sails Restaurant, Flame Tree Restaurant for a la carte dining and some local music, or perhaps Pacific Resort for their Island Night show. For casual ambience, check out the Asian street-style food at The Rickshaw, or mouthwatering Mexican dishes at La Casita.
s r a l l e c 1 . o Your N
Remember that it pays to make a reservation if visiting a restaurant, to avoid disappointment; and if you want music with your meal, ask who their resident singer is that night. Check the local paper or ask your resort what’s happening at the local sports clubs – join in for some good live music, cheap drinks, and great company. Local women enjoy dressing up, and the men prefer comfortable shorts, shirt/t-shirt and sandals, but dress code is open.
Friday Night Friday night is party night, as clubs and bars can open until 2am, unlike every other night, which is 12 midnight. Downtown Avarua is a great place to start: First up is a sunset cocktail at either Trader Jacks, Café Salsa, or Whatever Bar where there’s always a nice mix of locals and tourists. After a couple of hours, walk across the road to the Garden Bar at the BC (Banana Court), known all over the Pacific. BC’s Garden Bar features local bands from 4pm to 9pm and then its inside for some raw local music and dancing. Trader Jack’s ‘Boogieman’ band, with some of our best musos on the island, starts around 8pm. Hidies Bar, located in Cooks Corner, has a big open-air dance floor, great drinks, a true island flavour and is Rarotonga’s iconic local hangout, with live bands and resident DJ. Open Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights, Hidies famed ‘Happy Hour’ runs Friday from 4-7pm. Later in the night it’s back to Whatever Bar for some dancing, or perhaps try Rehab (near Whatever Bar), for some of the latest hip hop, R’n’B, and techno sounds. The great thing about this town is that the bars are only minutes away from each other. It’s safe and people are friendly and will give you directions. Remember to organise a dedicated driver or taxi if you’re drinking. An organized Nightlife Tour is another great way to enjoy your Friday night and you won’t need to do the driving. The Edgewater Resort & Spa and The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa both run their own legendary ‘Pub Crawls’. Be sure to book in advance to avoid disappointment.
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Over 600 wines, all popular brand spirits, liqueurs, beers, RTD’s, mixers, ice, etc. Wedding and special occasion catering, party-hire. Free delivery 6 days per week. Free tastings Wednesdays 3.30 – 4.30pm.
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ALLAN SCOTT
JACK DANIELS
BOMBAY SAPPHIRE
JOHNNIE WALKER
OYSTER BAY
PENFOLDS
TIA MARIA DELEGATS DRAMBUIE COINTREAU
VILLA MARIA WOLF BLASS MUDHOUSE
McGUIGANS CASTLEMAN XXXX TOOHEYS VB STEINLAGER
In central Avarua, opposite Punanga Nui Marketplace Open Mon - Thur 9 to 5 | Fri & Sat 9 to 7 ESCAPE • 93 Phone: 21007 Email: trish@thebond.co.ck
entertainment guide
Rarotonga night-life guide
Keep our roads safe if you’re drinking:
MONDAY
Dial a driver: 55580 / 55512 / 55515 Taxis: Refer to yellow pages and book homecoming fare before you go out. Clockwise Bus: Evening bus departs Cook’s Corner clockwise only, every hour Monday to Thursday and Saturday from 6pm to 11pm. Friday evenings from 6pm to 10pm and 12 midnight to 2am.
Island Night Shows – Quick Guide 23953 25800
25435 24006 31526
Wednesday Beaches @ Manuia Beach Resort 22461 Highland Paradise 21924 The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa 25800 SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel 23000
Thursday 23953 22254 24006 31810
Friday Club Bana Bistro Highland Paradise Pacific Resort, Aitutaki
23236 21924 31720
Saturday Edgewater Resort & Spa Te Vara Nui Village
Edgewater Resort & Spa: Tok 6:30-8:30 Great Classic tunes, jazz, pop, rock
SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Live island music | Nooroa & Soko on island strings Pacific Resort: A la carte dining and live local artist Fred Betham Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Fire Dance and Island BBQ @ $49 pp + Karaoke
Aro’a Beachside Inn: Garth Young on keyboard Great beachside BBQ and classic tunes Bluewater Grill @ Sanctuary Rarotonga-onthe-beach: Live entertainment with Tara Kauvai Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live Band A la carte menu with live entertainment
Tuesday
Crown Beach Resort & Spa Staircase Restaurant & Bar Te Vara Nui Village Tamanu Beach, Aitutaki
Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights
Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: Seafood Night with entertainment
Monday Phone
Edgewater Resort & Spa Te Vara Nui Village Samade on the Beach, Aitutaki
RSA (“The Razza”): Local DJ Pumping dance music from 9pm
TUESDAY
(Bookings are recommended)
Crown Beach Resort & Spa The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa
Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Te Rau Maire dance troupe | Island Feast and Cultural Show
25435 24006
Edgewater Resort & Spa: Ta’akoka Dance Troupe | Island NightBuffet and Cultural show SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Live music with Ephraima on keyboards Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Spices of Asia Mongolian BBQ @ $36 pp + crab racing and Karaoke Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and Over Water Night Show &Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & island/western fusion buffet
WEDNESDAY
Beaches Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort: Interactive island experience, with cultural activities, dancing, island buffet, and fire show Edgewater Resort & Spa: Local Band A la carte Seafood menu with local entertainment Hidies Bar: Open for lunch 12pm - 2pm, Evening 8pm -12am SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel:Island Night Extravaganza | Top Akirata Dance Troup Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: ‘Legends of Polynesia’ Island Night UMU Feast & Drum Dance Show @ $49 pp + Karaoke
Remember you’re in Raro now, on ‘Island Time’, so relax and enjoy!
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Edgewater Resort & Spa: Ru & Boys A la carte menu with great local sounds Garden Bar - Banana Court: Live Entertainment Hidies Bar: Open for lunch 12pm – 2pm Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel:Live music with the sweet sounds of Cathy on keyboard Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and Over Water Night Show & Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & island/western fusion buffet Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Reef & Beef night @ $36 pp with mellow musical accompaniment by Andre Tapena. Windjammer Restaurant: First class dining with piano by Garth Young Whatever Bar: Great value meals with local music
FRIDAY
Beaches Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort: Enjoy the sounds of Manuia Beach Resorts famous string band with Natua and the boys Cafe Salsa: Live entertainment with great music & fabulous food Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live Band T-Bone Steak Night with live entertainment Edgewater Resort & Spa: Tok 6:30–8:30 Dining with great local music + Edgewater Resorts “Nitelife Tour” Garden Bar - Banana Court: Great local & upbeat music with bar snacks available Hidies Bar: Open all day 12pm – 2am (Happy Hour 4pm – 8pm) Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights Pacific Resort: A la carte dining & live local artist Kahiki Tehaamatai Rehab: Boogie night with local DJ. Hip-hop, R’n’B, Techno SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Pig & Prawn Night | With live music by Lei Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Flame-Grilled Steak Night @ $36 pp + The Rarotongan’s famous Friday Funbus Nitelife Tour @ $25 pp. Trader Jacks: Boogieman - rock classics & seafood, steaks & pizza Whatever Bar:Live Band &DJ T. Bone steak, fish, burgers
SATURDAY
Aroa Beachside Inn: Great Seafood Beachside BBQ & the island music of Papa Jake Numanga
Whatever Bar: Local string band 7-9pm
Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live Entertainment A la carte menu with local & classic tunes
THURSDAY
Edgewater Resort& Spa: Island Night Buffet & Cultural Show with Orama Dance Group
Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: Pub Night menu with live entertainment
Hidies Bar: Open evening 8pm-12am
Aro’a Beachside Inn: Sunset cocktails with live music by Rudy Aquino
Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights
Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Akirata dance troupe | Island Night Show & Dinner
Pacific Resort: A la carte dining & live local artist Kura Happ
Rehab: DJ. Hip hop, R’n’B’, dance night Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Fire Dance Show & Island BBQ @ $49 pp + Karaoke Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and Over Water Night Show & Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & island/western fusion buffet Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Firedance Show & Island Barbeque + Karaoke Whatever Bar: Scrumptuous menu with live music by local string band
Pacific Resort: A la carte dining & live local Flying Boat Beach Bar & Grill @ Aitutaki artist Rudi Aquino Lagoon Resort & Spa: Live entertainment with Greig Mose Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Pacific Resort: Island Night - South Pacific Resort & Spa: Sunday Carvery Roast @ $36 pp cuisine and performances by local Aitutaki song with Tok on guitar and dance troupe
Aitutaki night-life guide MONDAY
Bounty Brasserie @ Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa: Fire dance show, a la carte dinner & crab races
SUNDAY
Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: BBQ with live entertainment Tupuna’s Restaurant: Great a-la-carte dining with the freshest local foods in a Bluewater Grill @ Sanctuary Rarotonga-onrelaxed garden setting. Mon-Sat from 6pm the-beach: Live entertainment with Tara Kauvai Club Raro: BBQ night with local string band TUESDAY Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Roast Night with Aitutaki Village: Island buffet and live entertainment cultural show on the sandy beach at Ootu
Edgewater Resort & Spa: Ru & Boys -local string band WEDNESDAY Aitutaki Game Fishing Club: A good evening SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Beach to visit and meet the locals. Where else would BBQ Grill Night from $25 pp + live music with you find a bar in a 20 foot container? Papa Jake Numanga.
The Boatshed Bar & Grill: Check out this popular restaurant any day of the week. A-lacarte menu for lunch & dinner. Great cocktails!
THURSDAY
Tamanu Beach: Island Fire & Dance Show on the beach. Fantastic entertainment with a great selection of food
FRIDAY
Aitutaki Game Fishing Club: One of the most popular local bars to visit for a sun-downer Coconut Crusher Bar: Entertainment and party the night away with your host Ricky Flying Boat Beach Bar & Grill @ Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa: Live entertainment with Greig Mose. | Funbus Nitelife Tour @ $35 pp Puffy's Bar: Island Night Floor Show & Buffet
SUNDAY
Aitutaki Village: Barbeque with great entertainment Tamanu Beach: Sunset Barbeque Night with great local entertainment and island food
Prices or schedules are subject to change at any time.
NEW ZEALAND'S CRAFT BEER HAS ARRIVED IN RAROTONGA AVAILABLE AT THE BOND STORE AND ALL GREAT ESTABLISHMENTS. ESCAPE • 95
what's on
Te Maeva Nui celebrations
t
hroughout the year we find many reasons to celebrate and have fun, and there’s always plenty to do and see on Rarotonga and her sister islands. As most Cook Islanders are willing sports participants, you’ll find a multitude of sports codes and clubs active throughout the islands, where you are always welcome to visit. As for festivals and celebratory events, it is certain that you will always find something of interest taking place. Thu 31st Rarotonga Schools Cultural Festival Also this month… V12 Oe Vaka (12 man outrigger canoe) Corporate Race
January / Tianuare Fri 1st New Years Day – public holiday Mon 4th New Year Day observed – public holiday Wed 13th – Sat 23rd Oceania Football Confederation U17 Women’s Championship
FEBRUARY / Peperuare Mon 1st School Term 1 begins Also this month… Squash – Business House Competitions commence Canoeing – Oe Vaka Sprint Season commences Corporate Teams Triathlon
Fri 3rd Prime Foods Night Market Mon 6th Queen’s Birthday – public holiday
Fri 8th National Dancer of The Year competitions commence
Dates TBC Rugby 15’s season commences
Thu 14th National Dancer of The Year – Junior & Intermediate Finals
JULY / Tiurai
Fri 15th School Term 1 complete – School Holidays begin
Fri 1st ‘Ra o te Ui Ariki’ (Ariki Day) – public holiday Thu 14th LBV Restaurant Bastille Day celebrations
Thu 21st National Dancer of The Year – Senior Grand Finals
Fri 22nd School Term 2 complete – School Holidays begin
Mon 25th ANZAC Day – public holiday Air New Zealand ANZAC Golf Tournament (date TBC)
Sat 23rd – Wed 3rd Aug Te Maeva Nui celebrations commence
MAY / Me
Mon 25th – Wed 27th BCI Cook Islands Te Maeva Nui market trade days
Mon 2nd School Term 2 begins
Dates TBC Squash Open Tournament Ministry of Education Careers Expo
Thu 5th International Triathlon Week Commences With Trader Jack’s Boiler Swim
AUGUST / Aukute
MARCH / Mati Thu 17th St. Patricks Day celebration at Sails Restaurant
Sun 8th Mothers Day
Mon 28th Easter Monday – public holiday
Thu 2nd Environment Week commences
APRIL / Aperira
Sat 7th Air New Zealand Rarotonga Triathlon
Fri 25th Good Friday – public holiday
JUNE / Tiunu
Triathlon Awards Dinner Tue 10th Turtles ‘Tour de Raro’ cycle race
Thu 4th National Self Governing Commemorative Day – public holiday Mon 8th School Term 3 begins Mon 22nd – Fri 26th 6th Annual Manureva Aquafest
Wed 11th Matutu Mile fun run
N.B. All events take place on Rarotonga, unless stated otherwise.Dates and events are provided courtesy of Cook Islands Tourism Corporation and were correct at time of publication, but subject to change without notice. Visitors are advised to confirm event dates with the Visitor Information Centre – phone (682) 29435, or by email: Lydia.Nga@cookislands.gov.ck
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Annual Manureva Aqua fest
APRIL Te Mire Ura – Dancer of the Year Poetry in motion is a euphemism made literal in Polynesia, no truer than when the annual Dancer of the Year competition is held each April. Dozens of dancers in three age groups, junior, intermediate and open, take to the stage at nightspots on Rarotonga and the outer islands. Finals are then held at the 2,000 seat national auditorium in Rarotonga under the direction of the Ministry of Cultural Development. An entertaining evening watching the finals at the auditorium sees a mingling of locals and tourists filling the place up, packed out with kids - every dancer of the year is every kid’s idol until the next year. Winners are chosen on criteria like costume, choreography and degree-of-difficulty. This is always a most entertaining and enlightening spectacle for visitors.
JULY / AUGUST Te Maeva Nui – Celebrating our nation’s independence Every year from June to August about 2000 people on Rarotonga and on the outer islands put their lives on hold to prepare for Te Maeva Nui, the national culture and dance festival. It is a week-long cultural marathon held around the date of August 4th, which is the birthday of the Cook Islands as an independent nation. Whilst each year in April, solo dancers compete for the title of ‘Dancer of the Year’, it is the big dance teams from different islands and districts who challenge each other during Te Maeva Nui. It is an intense competition, which requires energy and dedication from a large percentage of the Cook Islands population. For five nights the exuberant performances become a vibrant testimony of the passionate commitment Cook Islanders have to their dance and culture.
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events that you shouldn’t miss…
The dynamic drum dance is the favourite of most locals and visitors, but each team competes in four disciplines in total: Ute (song-chant), Pe’e (chant and theatre), Kapa Rima (action song) and Ura Pa’u (drum dance). And, it is the thrill of anticipation that excites the local audience – what new dances, costumes, songs and chants are in store? You may have seen cultural dance shows around the island, or perhaps in your resort, but you haven’t seen anything that even closely resembles the vibrancy and passion of the finals at Te Maeva Nui, held in the National Stadium. This is the cultural highlight of the Cook Islands year; the only people who are ever disappointed are those who miss it.
AUGUST Annual Manureva Aquafest In September some of the biggest names in kite surfing will head to the Cook Islands to vie for the top spot at the International Kite Surfing competition on Aitutaki. The Cook Islands Kite Surfing Association, in conjunction with the events team at Cook Islands Tourism, manage this big event which has catapulted the Cook Islands on to the international stage as a desirable kite surfing destination. 2011’s inaugural event generated immense support for the
association and this year marks the 6th such competition on the stunning waters of Aitutaki Lagoon.
NOVEMBER 7’s in Heaven The Cook Islands International Rugby 7’s Tournament which is also known as ‘Sevens in Heaven' has become one of the most sought after 7’s competitions in the Pacific. During the past 10 years, the Cook Islands international ‘Sevens in Heaven’ tournament has not only grown to include age grade matches and women’s teams – it has also developed a real festive atmosphere. Although it’s not the Wellington or Hong Kong sevens, where hundreds of thousands flock to the games in colourful eye catching attire, here in paradise, the party and dress up atmosphere is very much island style! After all – playing sports and having a good time is something the people of the Cook Islands know how to do, and do well.
NOVEMBER Vaka Eiva Hundreds of paddlers and their supporters hit Rarotonga’s shores in November each year for the Steinlager Vaka Eiva; an exciting and fun outrigger canoeing festival, which is now the largest sporting event in the country.
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Held annually since 2004, Vaka Eiva has established a reputation as a hugely enjoyable week of racing, culture, and festivities, and attracts crews from throughout the world. 7's in Heaven
While the rugby 7s festival generates plenty of excitement in these rugby mad islands, there’s no doubt the influx of paddlers and supporters to the island hypes things up even more for the exciting week of Vaka Eiva activities; and oe vaka is fast establishing itself as one of the largest and most popular sporting codes in the country. What makes it even more special, is that outrigger canoeing is one of the few traditional Polynesian sports that have survived the test of time, plus it has strong cultural significance and roots in the Pacific islands. Vaka Eiva is a festival promoting both competition and the culture of oe vaka.
There’s an air of festivity on the island the whole week long, from the opening ceremony, throughout the week of racing and social activities, to the wrap up paddler’s party at Trader Jack’s waterfront bar. Trader Jack is one sponsor who has been involved from the start and this is the hangout of choice for paddlers and spectators throughout the week, giving close views of the start and finish of the ocean races.
DECEMBER Te Mire Tiare Flower Festival This happy and colourful festival features competitions for the best floral decorated shops, schools and government buildings, each one on a different day of the week
VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE Downtown Avarua Next to the ANZ Bank We’re here to help you! Advice on accommodation, tours, restaurants, activities, entertainment and travel to our sister islands. Phone or call in to see us.
Open: Monday to Friday 8am - 4pm Saturday 10am - 1pm Phone: (682) 29435 Email: headoffice@cookislands.gov.ck
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long festivities. Locals also vie for the honour of making the best head or neck ‘ei (garland), best pot plant and much more. The glamorous focal point to the week is undoubtedly the ‘Miss Tiare’ competition which sees attractive young ladies competing for this prestigious title. The first appearance of the contestants is usually at the Punanga Nui marketplace on the first Saturday of the festival; the weeks wraps up with a colourful float parade and crowning of Miss Tiare on the following Saturday. Dates and events are provided courtesy of Cook Islands Tourism Corporation and were correct at time of publication, but subject to change without notice. Visitors are advised to confirm event dates with the Visitor Information Centre – phone (682) 29435, or by email: Lydia.Nga@cookislands.gov.ck
Rarotonga (Head Office) P.O. Box 14, Rarotonga, Cook Islands Phone: (682) 29435 Fax: (682) 21435 headoffice@cookislands.gov.ck Aitutaki P.O. Box 3, Aitutaki Cook Islands T: (682) 31767 tourism.officer@aitutaki.net.ck Atiu T: (682) 33435 tourism@atiu.net.ck New Zealand 91 St Georges Bay Rd, Studio 11, Level 3 Parnell Auckland 1052 New Zealand T: (64) 9 366 1106 nzmanager@cookislands.travel Australia Shop 38, Niecon Plaza, Mezzanine Level, 17-19 Victoria Ave Broadbeach, QLD 4218 Australia T: (61 ) 7 5504 5488 info@cookislandstourism.travel
North America canadamanager@cookislands.travel usamanager@cookislands.travel Northern Europe europemanager@cookislands.travel Southern Europe southerneurope@cookislands.travel United Kingdom ukmanager@cookislands.travel China chinamanager@cookislands.travel Japan japanmanager@cookislands.travel
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